Moutai magazine - International Edition Issue 7 Spring 2015

07 SPRING 2015

A Timeless Charm 古老的時尚 Yuan Renguo: Moutai’s Global Vision 袁仁國：茅台轉型跳出中國 Moutai: A Green, Healthy Drink 茅台：綠色有機的健康飲品 Capital Spirits–Where East Meets West 首間白酒主題酒吧在北京 Take It Slow: Interview with Lyricist and Poet Lee Hock-Ming 專訪李茀民：酒是陳的香 Interview with Renowned Wine Expert Chantal Chi 齊仲蟬：聞香識酒的俠女 Joseph Needham’s “Health Preservationism” 李約瑟：養生是一種主義

Natural Produce Transcendental Taste 自然之中 品味之外

www.moutaichina.com

Liquor: Feitian 53% Kweichow Moutai

酒：53 度飛天貴州茅台酒

A Taste of Time Defined by the Seasons

穀物輪迴的四季 時光沉澱的韻味

www.moutaichina.com

A typical representative of the Chinese yeast liquor, Moutai cultivates yeast from wheat using ancient techniques and according to the change of seasons, producing a one-of-a-kind distilled liquor that emits a divine aroma.

貴州茅台酒是東方曲酒代表，以小麥爲曲，順應季節生産，用古老的發酵方法帶來豐滿醇厚的香氣，在世界蒸餾酒中獨一無二。

CONTRIBUTORS

CHINA KWEICHOW MOUTAI DISTILLERY (GROUP) CO., LTD. Maotai, Renhuai City, Guizhou Province, China 564501

KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD.

Maotai, Renhuai City, Guizhou Province, China 564501 Production & Advertising Sales Agent: ER HONGKONG HOLDING LIMITED Room 2103, 21/F, Sino Plaza, No.255-257 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 3580 2598 Fax: (852) 3580 2588 Consultants : Yuan Renguo, Chen Min, Liu Zili, Zhao Shuyue

Yu Yat Yiu A talented well-known music producer.

Music creations included pop music, musicals, dance music, movie and TV soundtracks. In 1997, Yu, Anthony Wong, and a team of musicians and artists established an independent music production company "People Mountain People Sea".

Publisher | Francis Wong Chief Executive Officer | Christine Yin Creative Director | Dora Lu

Managing Editor | Penny Zhou Project Manager | Grace Liu Art Director | Johnny Woo

Senior Project Editor | Laura Su, Cher Chen Photographers | Dai Huashan, Cyrus Wong

Translators | Billy Yung, Grace Liu, Denise Chan, Penny Zhou Project PR | Meng Yuan

Dora Lu As a holder of Bachelor's degree in Communication and Master's degree in Fine Arts, and a tenured researcher of the Visual Culture Institute, Dora Lu keeps focusing on traditional arts and Chinese liquor culture, and becomes a creative columnist for various newspapers and magazines.

Marketing Executive | Nikita Wan, Denise Chan Advertising Enquires | Tel: (852) 3580 2598 Email | er-hk@everreliable.net

RIGHTS

Moutai Magazine (international edition) is published quarterly by ER HONGKONG HOLDING LIMITED under a license by KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD. Reprints, copy or use of any content in this magazine whether in whole or in part, shall only be allowed with the explicit written permission of KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD.

No responsibility can be taken for unsolicited texts and photographs.

The views and opinions expressed or implied in the articles do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher,

Johannes Pong Jet-setting travel and food writer Johannes Pong covers the Hong Kong scene. He's also a regular TV personality, and took Travel Channel’s Andrew Zimmern out for snake wine on an episode of Bizarre Foods.

editors or the license holder.

All contents in this magazine have been complied with the best of our knowledge,

but no warranty or representation is given as to its accuracy, completeness, relevance, timeliness or otherwise.

Moutai Magazine (international edition) appears quarterly with

editions published under cooperation or license in two languages.

Sponsor: Top Gainer Industrial Limited

Dong Tiezhu Special Thanks :

Dong Tiezhu is a holder of Ph.D in Chinese culture at the University of California, Berkeley. Familiar with both Chinese and Western culture, Dong has been teaching Chinese culture at Wofford College (USA) and United International College (Zhuhai).

"Fashion is a creation of sincerity; it is about dreams."

—— Giorgio Armani In this issue of MOUTAI MAGAZINE, we turn our focus on the modern reinterpretations of ancient cultures.

See how a CEO leads a historic brand into the new age; Listen to a pop music lyricist’s fascination with classic literature; Follow a young wine critic’s quest to delve into one of world’s oldest wine regions.

Meanwhile, in Australia, mixologists put a contemporary twist on a two-thousand-year-old liquor, and a Hong Kong chef reintroduces traditional Chinese cuisine with pride and innovation.

From the reprinting of a royal calendar, and the fashionable trend of healthy preservation, to a sinologist’s fascination of Chinese medicine—an ancient civilization is rejuvenated by new attention.

With sincerity, creativity and vigor, a modern day classic is in the making.

「 時 尚 是 真 誠 的 創 造 ， 時 尚 歸 根 到 底 關 乎 夢 想 。」 —— 喬 治 · 阿 瑪 尼 本期《MOUTAI MAGAZINE》關注傳承古老文明的時代創新。 我們觀察，世界知名釀酒商掌門人，如何帶領中國民族品牌邁向國際。 我們傾聽流行音樂人的古典情懷，追隨酒評師在古羅馬時代的酒莊打開感官。 世界各地的調酒師，用水果與鮮花喚醒已飄香兩千年的東方美酒，華人厨師讓古老中餐的 精妙奢美為更多的人理解和欣賞。 無論是複刻百年時風的日曆、時尚健康的飲品，還是漢學家的中醫養生，人們一直都在不 斷的激活古老的文明，用真誠的創造，為屬於每個人的時代注入活力，成就經典。

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I S S U E

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A Timeless Charm 古老的時尚

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Yuan Renguo: Moutai’s Global Vision

Take It Slow: Lyricist and Poet Lee HockMing on Showbiz, Poetry and Healthy Living

袁仁國：茅台轉型跳出中國

酒是陳的香：專訪知名音樂人李茀民

This issue’s cover is inspired by the spring energy that awakens the universe.

Spring has sprung, breathing life into the world and filling the air with a crisp vigor. In the season of the new, people step out into the nature to plant crops, to work out, to bask in the glorious weather and to savor the wonderful energy. Springtime is about starting the New Year afresh and healthy, so join us as we embark on journey in search of the essence of healthy living. 本期封面靈感來自喚醒味蕾的春風。 人們從山谷中汲取清泉，在大地上種植穀物，傳承古老的智慧；以宇 宙運行的規律，在時間的輪迴中，釀造美酒、烹飪美食、吐納呼吸， 用以滋養我們的身體和思想，與四季一起繁衍生長，品味生命旅程中 每一個瞬間的味道。

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Comment Les Français Consomment-Ils Les Baijiu (Alcools Blancs Chinois) ?

Capital Spirits— Where East Meets West

酒中無他鄉

首間白酒主題酒吧在北京

CONTENT 目錄 Gold Prize Since 1915 金獎百年 10 A Journey to Fame 始于一段成名之旅

12 A Timeless Charm 古老的時尚

54 Capital Spirits—Where East Meets West 首間白酒主題酒吧在北京

20 Moutai: A Green, Healthy Drink 茅台：綠色有機的健康飲品

60 Moutai: A Sip of Chinese Culture 茅台，讓世界景仰中華文明 64 A Calendar that Represents the Chinese 中國人的日曆

24 Yuan Renguo: Moutai’s Global Vision 袁仁國：茅台轉型跳出中國 30 Take It Slow: Lyricist and Poet Lee Hock-Ming on Showbiz, Poetry and Healthy Living 酒是陳的香：專訪知名音樂人李茀民 36 Chantal Chi: A Wine Heroine 齊仲蟬：聞香識酒的「俠女」

42 Vision of a Dragon 軒軒甚得龍景朗 48 Comment Les Français Consomment-Ils Les Baijiu (Alcools Blancs Chinois) ? 酒中無他鄉

68 Snow, Polo and Liquor 雪山里的馬球與美酒 72 Joseph Needham's "Health Preservationism" 李約瑟：養生是一種主義 74 Into the Woods: The Healthy-Drinking Trend is Hitting Hong Kong 自然之味：健康飲品成為香港潮人之選 76 Tips on Drinking Healthy 健康飲酒新技能 78 Moutai on the World Map 茅台在全球

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a Journey to Fame 始于一段成名之旅 TEXT/ 文 : Laura Su

Editor's note: 2015 is Moutai's 100th anniversary of winning the gold prize at the Panama Pacific International Exposition.

Therefore, our magazine specially sets up the column of "Gold Prize Since 1915" to detail Moutai's century-old journey.

In December 1914, braving the wind and the waves, a ship was traveling eastwards at full speed on the Pacific Ocean. The cabin and deck were full of Chinese who had cut off their braids. They gathered in small groups chatting.

This was an American ship sailing from Tianjin port of China to San Francisco of the United States. Among the Chinese passengers of the ship, there were officials sent by the "Panama Exposition Affairs Bureau" of Yuan Shikai Administration and businessmen from all over China. They took along a cargo of over 2,000 tons with them to be exhibited at the exposition. The Kweichow Moutai liquor, later reputed as China's national liquor, also took on this ship to start its journey to fame.

1914 年 12 月，一艘輪船乘風破浪，在太平洋上全速向東行駛。船艙裡和甲板上， 到處都可以看到剪掉辮子的中國人，他們三五成群閒聊著。這是一艘美國輪船， 從中國天津港出發，目的地是美國舊金山。輪船上的中國乘客中，有當時袁世

編者按： 2015 年是茅台榮獲巴拿 馬萬國博覽會金獎 100 周年，本 刊特設「百年金獎」欄目，將百年

凱政府「籌備巴拿馬賽會事務局」的官員，還有來自中國各地的商人，他們隨 船攜帶了 2,000 多噸貨物將在這次博覽會上展出。後來被稱為「國酒」的貴州 茅台酒，也乘上這艘船，開始了自己的成名之路。

前的榮耀、百年間的磨礪、百年 後的輝煌的個中故事一一道來。

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On February 20, 1915, the Panama Pacific International Exposition was held in San Francisco and attracted 31 countries to participate. Excluding the United States, the hosting country, China was one of the participating countries with the most numerous exhibits and largest pavilion areas.

China's exhibits included such national top products as silk, porcelain, tea, cloisonne, agricultural products as well as art and handicraft products. Among them, Moutai

liquor was exhibited as one of the specialties from Guizhou Province.

Chengyi Distillery and Ronghe Distillery, two biggest liquor distilleries of Moutai Town selected several dozen jars of Moutai liquor for the exhibition. After receiving the Moutai liquor, officials of the Agriculture and Commerce Department found that the liquors from two distilleries were produced in the same place. Both distilleries used tawny pottery jars as liquor containers. Except the

different surnames of " 王 " and " 華 " on the container labels, the liquor names and packages of the two distilleries were almost the same. Therefore, the officials regarded these two kinds of Moutai liquor as one product and sent them to the exhibition under the name of "Kweichow Bureau" and with "Moutai Liquor Company" as the manufacturer.

On March 9, the Chinese pavilion was officially opened in San Francisco. Over 100,000 exhibits were displayed at nine exhibition halls, including the education, industry and mining, agriculture, and food halls. Placed in the agriculture hall and mixed together with cotton, linen, soybean, edible oil, and other agricultural products, the Moutai liquor went easily unnoticed.

Moutai once gained an award from the Overseas Chinese and the Southern Seas Industrial Association and some representatives from the Chinese delegation were afraid that such a competitive exhibit would be neglected if it was displayed in the agriculture hall. Therefore, they suggested that it should be moved to the food exhibition hall to raise its profile. During the process of movement, one bottle full of Moutai liquor accidentally fell from the exhibition shelf onto the floor and was broken into pieces.

Immediately, the Moutai aroma permeated the air and visitors began to walk towards the source of the aroma.

Chen Qi, leader of the Chinese delegation, had tasted Moutai during the awarding process of the Overseas Chinese and the Southern Seas Industrial Association and knew the lasting empty-cup fragrance of Moutai. Therefore, he took a bottle of Moutai, poured some Moutai into a few empty bottles and left the bottles uncapped, allowing the

fragrance to fill the pavilion. He also put some glasses next to the bottles for professionals to taste the liquor.

This measure was very effective and visitors were attracted by the aroma. Many curious visitors raised the glasses to taste the liquor and were deeply impressed by the liquor. Immediately, the agriculture hall was full of people and initiated a sensational effect.

In May 1915, the exposition started preparing to set up the Senior Judging Committee. As the host of this exposition, according to the international practice, the United States appointed the president and vice president of the Senior Judging Committee.

Through public election, the representatives from the United States, Australia, Argentina, the Netherlands, Japan, Cuba, Uruguay, and China served as the secretary-generals.

Based on the actual situation of the exhibited products and thorough discussions with the representatives of the participating countries, the Senior Judging Committee decided to set up six awards for the exhibits. Including the consolation prizes without medals, the awards were classified into four grades. The first consisted the Grand Prize, the Medal of Honor and the Gold Medal; the second was the Silver Medal; the third the Bronze Medal; and then there was the Consolation Prize.

During the exhibition in the agriculture hall, through the sensational effect of "using bouquet as media", Moutai had become a shining star. Therefore, Moutai need not be evaluated by the jury. Instead, it was directly awarded the gold Medal of Honor and was reputed as the "World Famous Liquor". ( To be continued )

精選了幾十壇上等好酒參展。農商部官員收到 展品後，發現這兩種酒均產於一地，且均用黃 褐色土陶罐為酒瓶，除標以「王」、「華」一 字相別外，名稱與包裝都相同，於是將兩家茅 台酒作為一個產品，以「茅台造酒公司」為生 產廠家，以「貴州公署」名義送去參展。 1915 年 3 月 9 日，中國館在舊金山正式 開館，10 多萬件展品分別擺在教育、工礦、 農業、食品等 9 個展廳展出。茅台酒放在農業 館裡，與棉、麻、大豆、食油等農產品雜陳在 一起，很不顯眼。 因茅台酒有在南洋勸業會獲獎的歷史，怕 這樣有競爭力的展品被埋沒在農業館，於是有 代表提出將茅台酒移入食品館陳列，以突出其 位置。搬動時，一位代表不慎失手，一瓶茅台 酒從展架上跌落摔碎了，頓時酒香四溢，場館 裡聞到香氣的人們開始停下參觀的腳步，四處 搜尋香源。 中國赴賽監督陳琪在南洋勸業會評獎時品 嘗過茅台酒，知道她醬香馥郁、空杯留香的特 點，於是建議只需取一瓶茅台酒，分置於數個 空酒瓶中，敞開酒瓶口，旁邊再放上幾隻酒杯， 任茅台酒揮灑香氣，隨專業人士品嘗。 此舉果然非常奏效，參觀者們紛紛尋香而 來，更有好奇者拿起酒杯，爭相品嘗，一致交 口叫絕。農展館裡一時人頭攢動，很快產生了 轟動效應。 時至 1915 年 5 月，博覽會開始醞釀並成 立展品高級評審委員會。美國是大會東道主， 按國際慣例，由美國派人出任高級評審委員會 的會長和副會長。秘書長經公推，分別由美國、 澳大利亞、阿根廷、荷蘭、日本、古巴、烏拉 圭、中國代表出任。根據此次博覽會參展產品 的實際情況，經與會各國代表的充分討論，高 級評審委員會決定，展品評比共設立六個獎項，

1915 年 2 月 20 日， 巴 拿 馬 - 太 平 洋 萬

包括沒有獎牌的鼓勵獎分為四個等級。即：大

國博覽會在美國舊金山開幕，這次博覽會被當

獎章、榮譽勳章、金質獎章，以上三個獎項均

時的中國人稱為「巴拿馬萬國賽會」，吸引了

為一等獎；銀質獎章為二等獎；銅質獎章為三

31 個國家參加，除東道主美國外，中國是參

等獎；以及鼓勵獎。

賽國中展品最多、展館面積最大的國家之一，

由於茅台酒在農業館展出的過程中，已經

展出了絲綢、瓷器、茶葉、景泰藍、農產品與

通過「酒香為媒」的轟動效應，成為博覽會上

工藝品等民族精品。其中，茅台酒作為貴州省

的明星，故不必再由評審團進行評比，而直接

的特產之一參展。

由高級評審委員會授予榮譽勳章金獎，享有「世

為了參加這屆萬國博覽會，茅台鎮兩家最 大的酒作坊「成義燒房」與「榮和燒房」各自

界名酒」的美譽。

（未完待續）

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古老的時尚 PLANNING/ 策劃：Dora Lu PHOTO / 攝：Dai Huashan IMAGE / 圖：東方 IC

According to the Lunar Calendar, 2015 is the Year of the Sheep. One of the 12 animals featured in the Chinese Zodiac system, sheep is a sign that symbolizes beauty, kindness, and auspiciousness in Chinese culture. Meanwhile in the West, this animal is the incarnation of humanity in the Bible and an extremely important artistic motif in countless paintings.

China has over 5,000 years' history in liquor production. As the leader of Chinese liquor, Moutai originated from the Han Dynasty more than 2,000 years ago. More and more people are charmed by its special aroma and taste that have been inherited till today, and surprised by the unique style of this Oriental liquor.

Today, Moutai, joining many luxury brands across the globe, is seeking inspiration from the ancient Zodiac system and its array of animals, conveying the unique wisdom and tradition of Chinese culture through their modern creations. The result is a timeless charm. 公元 2015 年是中國的農曆羊年，每十二年人們便將「羊」作為一個話題，談論與贊美，寓意美善與吉祥。這 樣的循環，可以追溯到萬年前遠古時代的太陽曆法。在《聖經》里，羊便是人性的化身，在無數個虔誠者的畫 筆下，羊朝拜著剛剛降生的牧羊人，等待從迷途中回頭的歸程。這本橫跨 60 多個年代的古老書籍，以一種古 代的東方語言寫成，直至今日，超越國界的藩籬，被全世界所研讀。 中國有五千多年的可考釀酒史，酒中翹楚茅台酒源自兩千多年前的漢代，它特殊的香氣和味道傳承至今，讓越 來越多的人為之傾心，并驚訝于東方曲酒的獨特風格。 今天，那些引領時尚的美酒、腕表、珠寶、鞋履與箱包，從東方古老的文明中汲取靈感，注入新鮮的時代精神， 以真誠的創造，交織出獨有的智慧與魅力。每一个時代都有自己的時尚，有的稍縱即逝，有的成為了经典。古 老的時尚，抑或時尚的古老，不只是圖騰或文字，而是一個活著的靈魂。

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A Symbol of Prosperity and Great Expectations 美好的期望與吉祥的象徵 TEXT/ 文 : Freya Jiang

Throughout Chinese history, sheep has been a close companion to Chinese people and played an important part in their culture. Today, the docile animal is still considered a symbol of peace and harmony.

Interestingly, sheep also represents fortune and prosperity in Chinese culture, as it was kept only by the rich in ancient times and was deemed an icon of luck. Such association even spawned the Chinese character for “luck”, which was based on the character for “sheep”.

In addition, the fact that baby lambs like to kneel down before their mothers for care and protection resulted the Chinese’s believe that sheep is an animal of politeness and gratefulness, making it also a symbol of respecting the elderly. There is no doubt that the Chinese adores sheep, and therefore there is a rich culture surrounding sheep in the country.

The Palace Museum in Beijing houses an embroidery masterpiece named “Nine Suns Eliminate the Coldness” (see picture, left), produced during the reign of Emperor Qianlong in the Qing Dynasty. However, viewers won’t find “nine Suns” in this embroidery painting, but instead nine sheep. That is because “Sun” and “sheep” share the exactly same pronunciation in Mandarin; hence sheep is a symbol of the Sun and its lively energy. As nine is the ultimate lucky number in Chinese culture, the image nine sheep epitomizes all things positive and prosperous.

In traditional Chinese culture, the character for “sheep” possesses rich meanings. In the inscriptions on Oracle bones, which bear the earliest known significant corpus of ancient Chinese writing, the character for “beautiful” contains two parts: the top half signifying a sheep, the bottom half being the character for “big”. For the ancient

Chinese, a big, juicy sheep is a thing of beauty. Similarly, the character for “kindness” is a combination of “sheep” and “words”, meaning “kind words” and any other gestures of kindness. Moreover,“sheep”and “food” are the two elements that compose the character for “perverse”, which conveys Chinese’s belief that health preservation is about eating well.

It is easy to see that Chinese characters with the component of “sheep” are usually associated with positive meanings, while around the animal itself there have also been a number of legends and traditions. It is said that in the 3rd century, the Emperor Wu of Jin used to roam around the royal palace on a little goat-drawn carriage, and would stay for the night at whichever concubine’s residence where the goat decided to stop. Therefore, the ancient phrase “arrival of the goat carriage” means a concubine obtaining the Emperor’s special favor. Guangzhou City, the capital of Guangdong Province in southern China, is nicknamed “City of Sheep”. Legend has it that about 3,000 years ago, a big famine struck the town. A young man wept for the tragedy and moved the gods, who sent five sheep-riding fairies down to Guangzhou, carrying grains and blessing the townsfolk with forever good harvests.

As a distinct feature of Chinese culture, the Chinese make sense of the universe more through abstract concepts and emotional connections than concrete, analytical understandings. And sheep, one of the 12 Chinese Zodiac signs, stands for the Chinese’s admiration and aspiration for kindness and modesty, as well as their great expectations for a life of happiness.

遍尋整個中國歷史，從古時狩獵到游牧農耕，羊始終是人們日常

「羊大則肥美」也，既指味道的鮮美，也是美好的象徵。「善」字，

生活中的親密伴侶。即使到了今天，人們依然滿懷喜悅地把性格溫順、

其上半部分為「羊」字，下半部分為「言」字，本義是指吉祥的言語，

銀裝素裹的羊兒視為平靜與和諧生活的象徵。羊還代表了財富與繁榮，

又引申至品行高尚、仁愛醇厚等吉祥美好的含義。「養」字，上半部

因為古時候羊都生活在富人家中，被稱為「吉羊」，意為「幸運羊」。

分也是「羊」形，下半部分則為「食」字，意思是撫育、培養，從而

隨著時間的推移，「羊〔Yang〕」字逐漸演變為「祥〔Xiang〕」，

使身心得到滋補和修養。

代表了安定與好運。羔羊會跪下來感謝母羊的愛護與關懷，因此羊也

以「羊」作為偏旁部首的漢字，往往與中國人關于吉祥美好的期

被認為是一種禮貌、謙遜和感恩的動物，從而成為「尊老」的象徵。

望聯繫在一起。而漢字之外，圍繞著「羊」這種動物本身，還有著許

中國人喜愛羊，并由此在悠長的歷史里形成了豐富的羊文化。

多美麗的傳說和習俗。據傳，古代的晋武帝常常乘坐一種由羊牽引的

在北京故宮博物院，藏有一件五彩緙絲加綉的《九陽消寒圖》軸

小車在宮中游走，羊車停在哪個宮人的門外，他便在此晚宴留宿，因

( 見圖左 )。這是清朝乾隆年間，蘇州地區的工匠仿照一件宋代同名繪

而「羊車降臨」便被用來表示宮人的受寵；作為今天廣東省省會城市

畫製作而成。在中國的傳統文化中，數詞「九」為陽數，取吉祥之意，

的廣州，古稱是「羊城」，據說在周夷王的時候，廣州地區經歷了一

從冬至第二天起歷經的九九八十一天，是一年中最寒冷的時候；漢字

次大饑荒，一位少年的哭聲驚動了上天，于是五個仙人騎著五隻羊降

「羊」與「陽」諧音，意指太陽。圖軸中，情態各异的九隻羊隱喻「九陽」；

臨到了這裡，仙人們將五隻羊口中銜著的穀穗贈給了這裡的人民，祝

而身著華服的三個太子，則暗指「三泰」，即大吉利。背景點綴梅花、 青松、茶花、月季等花卉，種種喜氣盈盈的物象，表示著寒冬過去， 春天將來。 中國傳統文化中，「羊」字有著非常豐富的寓意。甲骨文中的「美」

福他們永遠不再經歷饑荒。 中國人對于萬物的認識，歷來是抽象感性多過具象理性。作為 十二生肖之一的羊，正是以它們的形象、品格、個性，甚至是味道， 代表著人們對于溫良醇厚品格的崇尚，以及幸福美好生活的期望。

字，其上半部分為頭頂雙角的羊形，下半部分則為「大」字，意思是

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A Shepherd’s Redemption and the Horned Devil 牧羊人的救贖與長角的惡魔 TEXT/ 文 : Fang Ting

A symbol for Jesus Christ and redemption, the image of sheep and goats holds a special place in western culture, especially in the Bible.

In the Book of Genesis, Adam and Eve have two sons. The older son Cain is a farmer while the young sibling, Abel, a shepherd. Both brothers try to please God with offerings: crops from Cain and lamb from Abel. However, when God accepts Abel’s offerings but turns down Cain’s, the latter kills his younger brother out of jealousy. Lamb is the inducer of sin in this fable, and after that, people live in Judaist or Christian culture would use lamb as a “sin offering” when they have committed sin unintentionally, like Cain.

Later on, after blooding the Earth, God appoints a man named Abraham to be the seed of human salvation. To test Abraham’s loyalty and strength, God demands him to offer his son Isaac up as a sacrifice instead of a lamb. Just when the patriarch is about to sacrifice his son, the Angel arrives and interrupts the sacrifice to inform him that his determination has been tested, and uses a lamb as the offering.

Another well-known Biblical story that involved lamb is in the Book of Exodus. God helps the Children of Israel escape from their slavery in Egypt, ruled by the Pharaohs, by inflicting ten plagues upon the ancient Egyptians before the Pharaoh would release his Israelite slaves; the tenth and worst of the plagues was the death of the Egyptian first-born. The Israelites were instructed to mark the doorposts of their homes with the blood of a slaughtered spring lamb and, upon seeing this, the spirit of the Lord knew to pass over the first-born in these homes, hence the Jewish holiday “Passover”. 作為耶穌基督、上帝子民以及救贖、犧牲的象徵，羊在聖經文化 中有著重要的地位。

The Nativity story, recorded in the gospels of Luke and Matthew, tells the birth of Jesus Christ. Jesus was born in a stable in Bethlehem, to a virgin mother named Mary and shepherd Joseph. Angels proclaim him a savior for all people, and shepherds come to adore him. Later on in the Gospel of John, John the Baptist makes the famous declaration about Jesus: “Behold the Lamb of God, which taketh away the sin of the world.” As the savior of mankind, Jesus is not only a shepherd of Christians’ spirituality but also a lamb that sacrifices himself to redeem the sins of others.

Lamb also plays a pivotal part in western art. “The Ghent Altarpiece” is a masterpiece by Early Netherlandish painter Jan van Eyck, one of the most celebrated artists in history. The work’s central panel, "Lamb of God" (see picture, left), depicts a lamb standing on an altar, facing the viewer and surrounded by 14 angels arranged in a circle. The lamb[58] has a wound on its breast from which blood gushes into a golden chalice, yet it shows no outward expression of pain, a reference to Christ's sacrifice.

On the other hand, ram is a common element in Greek Mythology.

Hailed the “King of Gods”, the violent and temperamental Zeus has many disguises, one being a ram. Meanwhile, Pan, god of shepherds and flocks, has the hindquarters, legs, and horns of a goat. Described as a wild, seductive god, Pan recalls the image of Satan. Both the epitome of purity and kindness, and a symbol of violence and lust, lamb and sheep represents the multiple facets of a culture, and thus remains a subject of fascination. 耶穌基督誕生在伯利恒的一個馬槽之中，附近的牧人們看到天空 巨大新星的光芒大驚失色。這時，上帝派來了天使，告訴了牧羊人救

在聖經《創世記》中，亞當和夏娃在偷食禁果後生了兩個兒子 ,

世主基督誕生的喜訊。在天使的指引下，牧人們便趁著夜色找到了馬

長子該隱務農，而次子亞伯放牧。後來，該隱拿農作物獻祭上帝，但

槽中的嬰兒，以及聖母瑪利亞和聖約瑟。聖若翰洗者在為耶穌施洗時

上帝却偏愛次子亞伯進獻的羔羊和羊油，被嫉妒之火衝昏頭腦的農民

曾說出一句名言：「看哪！神的羔羊，除去世人罪孽的。」耶穌不僅

該隱一怒之下將牧人亞伯給殺了。在這個故事中，羔羊便成為了罪惡

教導人行善，還將用自己聖潔的血洗去世人的罪孽，他就是釘死在十

的誘發者。後來，像該隱一樣犯下錯誤的人為了贖罪，則要將一隻羊

字架上的羔羊，用它的犧牲替世人贖罪。在這裡，耶穌既是教化信徒

獻給上帝作為「贖罪祭」。

的牧羊人，也是替他們贖罪的羔羊。

大洪水之後，諾亞的子孫中有一個叫做亞伯拉罕的先知，上帝為

羔羊與牧師也是基督教繪畫和音樂中一個反復出現的母題。出自

了考驗他的忠誠，要他拿自己的兒子代替羊羔獻祭。亞伯拉罕拿起刀

弗蘭德斯畫家揚·凡·艾克之手的根特祭壇畫，其主畫面叫做《羔羊

正要對自己的兒子動手時，天使趕來將他攔住，告訴他考驗的目的已

的禮拜》( 見圖左 )。畫面的四周，信徒、牧師和主教們或跪或立，排

經達到，並用一隻公羊代替他的兒子獻作燔祭。在這裡，本來將要用

列在使徒和先知們的身後；而畫面的中央，天使們跪立在聖壇的周圍，

人來代替羔羊成為獻祭品，但最終却是羔羊代替人作出了犧牲。

抬頭仰望著聖壇上的羔羊，看著它的血流進聖餐杯中。

以牧羊為生的以色列人與埃及人爆發了衝突，接受上帝使命的摩

古希臘神話中，作為眾神之王的宙斯本身，時常化身為公羊的形

西，帶領著以色列人逃離埃及。法老不允許以色列人將牛羊帶走，上

象到凡間尋歡作樂；希臘神話中的牧神潘，有著人的身體，却長著山

帝便給埃及人降下了「十灾」，其中最厲害的一個，就是上帝要殺掉

羊的長角、耳朵和蹄子，後來成為了中世紀惡魔形象的原型。一邊是

所有埃及人的頭生子。為了避免誤殺，上帝要求以色列人在初十四日

純潔、善良、堅韌與溫順，一邊是醜陋、狂暴、好鬥與好色，或許這

宰殺羊羔，將羊血塗在門口上，並以烤羊肉作為晚餐，這便是西方逾

正是代表了文化的理性與多元，也因此，流傳到今天的那些啟示與傳

越節的由來。在這裡，羊代替以色列人的頭生子作出了犧牲。

說才這樣令人禁不住探尋並為之著迷。

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A Fashionable Salute 致敬中華傳統文化的時尚 TEXT/ 文：Dora Lu

In Western culture, it is impolite to enquire people's ages directly, especially a lady’s age. In Chinese culture, there is a similar thing, but the Chinese figured out a workaround: asking about their Zodiac signs.

Originating from the ancient Chinese calendar, the Chinese Zodiac system involves 12 animals: mouse, ox, tiger, rabbit, dragon, snake, horse, sheep, monkey, rooster, dog, and pig. Each animal represents a year, and every 12 years is a cycle. Although similar Zodiac systems exist in countries such as India, Greece, Egypt and Mexico, many scholars tend to believe that China is its birthplace.

Every Chinese baby is endowed with the special meaning of their Zodiac sign when they’re born. In many ways, a person sign not only tells the year they’re born, but also suggests certain tendencies in their personalities, even the possibilities of their future. It is, of course, not founded on science, but it’s a unique and interesting part of Chinese culture that has lasted for thousands of years.

In fact, trend-setters in the fashion industry have long been seeking inspiration from the Zodiac animals, designing Zodiac-themed products from apparel and footwear to jewelry and handbags. A symbol for the passing of time, watches also make a particularly good match for the Zodiac, resulting in a dazzling array of horological masterpieces. In addition, ultrasensitive to the market’s changing demands, the watchmaking industry pay extreme attention to market trends and understands Asia as an important region for sales.

Zodiac designs make annual appearances in the catalogs of many high-end watchmakers, who compete to pay homage to this ancient civilization, resulting in watch face-offs in the luxury watch market during Chinese New Year. Italian brand Panerai started making Chinese Zodiac watches seven years ago, whereas Piaget’s first collection of Zodiac designs traces back to 2012. For Swiss watchmaker Jaquet Droz, launching a new Ateliers d'Art Zodiac watch has become a Chinese New Year tradition.

Meanwhile, Zodiac watches can also be found in Vacheron Constantin much-venerated Métiers d'Art series. By presenting “The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac”, a series of captivating timepieces based on the 12-year cycle, Constantin intends to pursue its special ongoing dialogue with collectors and devotees of Fine Watchmaking.

Apart from watches, another perfect vehicle of the Zodiac culture is fine liquor, which blossoms with time. One of world’s most beloved Chinese liquor, Moutai first introduced its Zodiac edition in 2014, which brought together several quintessential Chinese art forms on its design, depicting the Chinese Zodiac in extreme detail.

According to the “Five Elements”, a fivefold conceptual scheme in Chinese philosophy comprising of Wood, Fire, Earth, Metal and Water, the Year of the Sheep corresponds to the element of Earth. Therefore, the 2015 Zodiac Moutai features a rare golden-

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colored bottle, calling into the mind the color of earth. The label presents a traditional Chinese painting named "Three Sheep Bringing Bliss" by artist Liu Dawei, which symbolizes auspiciousness, happiness and good health.

The thousands-year-old Zodiac culture is experiencing an exciting revival in the 21st century. Endowed with the spirit of the contemporary world and global attention, it is dazzling with charm—one that transcends cultures and time.

西方的習俗不能當面問對方的年歲有多大，對女性更是如此。中國的傳統也相仿，但是， 中國有巧妙的變通辦法：即詢問或互相通報生肖或屬相，就可推算出多大年齡。 源於遠古中國曆法，用以紀年的生肖共有十二種動物：鼠、牛、虎、兔、龍、蛇、馬、羊、 猴、雞、狗、猪，一種動物即是這一年的屬相，十二年一個循環。印度、希臘、埃及、墨西哥 等國家民族中也有生肖習俗，但西方有不少學者認為源出中國。 中國人每人都有自己的屬相，每個中國人一出生，便被賦予生肖的特殊含義。大家以生肖 說年齡，論個性，形成了全社會的一種符號共享。這種共享的符號系統，既饒有趣味，又富含智慧， 延續數千年而不衰。 時尚領域的創意者們，很早就將目光投向這些與每個人都息息相關的動物上。從服裝、珠寶、 鞋履、箱包等等，都推出過以生肖為主題的產品。尤其在鐘錶界，這些具有計時意義的特有動物， 具備生動的美學形象，自然被產品設計師們視為寶物，將之升華為記錄歲月輪回的收藏品。况且， 鐘錶界一直有很强的市場敏感度，長期的銷售經驗讓他們對亞洲市場十分看重。很多高級製錶 品牌商都將推出年度生肖腕表作為一個固定的市場項目，試圖建立同亞洲大陸的長期密切聯 繫，每年上演一場生肖腕表爭霸賽。 這些腕表不光在中國的生肖文化上尋找設計靈感，汲取中國傳統文化藝術資源，在 工藝上也是大費周章，並將此視為致敬這一文明古國的最佳方式。沛納海中國生肖主 題的表款至今已做 7 年，伯爵生肖腕表的傳統則源自 2012 年。雅克德羅每逢農曆新 年之際推出全新藝術工坊系列腕表，慶祝十二生肖的交替更迭已成為一項傳統。江詩 丹頓藝術大師系列，已推出數款十二生肖傳奇系列腕表，希望通過以十二年為一個循 環的腕表系列，延續品牌與高級鐘錶收藏者和高級製表工藝愛好者之間獨有的交流方 式。 2015 年為農曆羊年，與熱鬧無比的馬年相比，羊年手錶們的誠意看來更深。小小 的錶盤裏，加入更多的中國傳統藝術、文化元素，並將之與品牌自身的文化血統、工藝 高度融合，將羊年的生肖文化演繹得時尚而迷人，可謂一次真正的美學挑戰。 以計時為屬性的腕錶無疑是生肖文化的最佳載體。然而，在這漫長的輪迴中， 值得等待的，還有時間釀造的幽幽醇香。作為最受人們歡迎的蒸餾酒之一的中 國國酒茅台，從 2014 年開始，每年推出一款最有年味的茅台生肖酒，集国酒、 国画、国粹于一身，在每一個細節都極致的表現了中國的生肖文化。羊年在中 國五行文化中屬土，對應黃色，因此乙未羊年茅台酒，瓶身為金黃色，這在茅 台酒產品中非常罕見。瓶身上的國畫由藝術家劉大為所創作的國畫《三羊開泰》， 寓意著祥瑞與安康。 數千年過去了，源起于古老中國的生肖文化，在今天因為人們的依戀而被 賦予時代精神，并以文化交融與對話的方式在全球熠熠生光，交織出獨有的智 慧與魅力，這已經不僅僅只是致敬與傳承，這是時代上演的時尚。

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Moutai:

A Green, Healthy Drink 茅台：

綠色有機的 健康飲品

TEXT/ 文：Yuan Renguo

This article is an extract from Mr. Yuan Renguo's book "MOUTAI, the Ultimate Enjoyment" 本文節選自袁仁國先生著作《醉美茅台》

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Healthy diet is one of the greatest concerns of the contemporary society. Amongst all Chinese liquors, Moutai is the only one that has garnered the titles of Level-A Green Food, Organic Food, Geographically Representative Product, National Intangible Cultural Heritage, and National Organic Grain Solid-state Fermentation Liquor from the Chinese authorities. 飲食健康是當代人最關心的話題之一。茅台酒是中國白酒行業中唯一集 A 級綠色食品、有機食品、原產地域產 品（地理標誌產品）、國家非物質文化遺產、國家純糧固態發酵白酒等認證于一身的健康飲品。

W

inning all these certificates wasn't an easy task. Behind such achievements is a complex set of process and standards. From the grain seeds required for making liquor, choice of soil, sowing requirements and rules of green fertilization, to the production of base liquor, long-term aging, blending, packaging, and delivery, every step has strict requirements and specifications. Take Moutai's brewing raw materials for example, only the high-quality wheat and glutinous sorghum produced in the Chishui River basin that fully meet the standards of "green food" and "organic food" can be used.

It has always been a major pursuit of Moutai to create high-quality drinks that people can enjoy without health worries. And a series of scientific researches and analysis has proven that Moutai is a liquor that’s not detrimental to health.

In 1993, medical experts from the Zunyi Hospital conducted a specific physical examination on the staff of Moutai factory and surprisingly found that although the staff drank more than 150 grams of Moutai everyday, their livers were not damaged in any way by liquor consumption. According to the result of this physical examination, apart from the case that formerly suffered from hepatitis and continued to drink before fully recovering and thus eventually leading to liver cirrhosis, the rest of the 39 staff members were very healthy and free of liver lesion.

This phenomenon drew the attention of Cheng Mingliang, professor of Guiyang Medical College and several other researchers.

They conducted a long-term and in-depth scientific research on the subject of "Effect and Influence of Kweichow Moutai Liquor on Liver". From the perspective of modern medical science, they researched, verified, and provided evidences in Moutai's benefits on health: Moutai can induce the metallothionein inside liver to increase by 22 times and restrain the pathological precondition of liver fibrosis, that is, the proliferation of hepatic stellate cell and the generation of collagen.

At the same time, the superoxide dismutase rich in Moutai is a useful complement to the human body and is likely to coordinate with the metallothionein to strengthen the effect of preventing, intervening, or delaying liver fibrosis. According to this scientific research, the relevant experts wrote six ChineseEnglish academic papers published in such authoritative academic journals as World Journal of Gastroenterology and Chinese Medical Journal.

In October 2005, at the 5th Metallothionein International Conference in Beijing, Chinese-American scientist Dr. Liu Jie further confirmed the fact that Moutai is beneficial to the health through the new scientific research achievement that proved "moderate consumption of Moutai can enhance the phosphorylation of glutathione S-transfers as well as significantly induce liver

cells to produce more metallothionein and 16 genes to up-regulate."

The advances of modern science increasingly clarify the reasons why Moutai can be a healthy drink. Firstly, Moutai contains plentiful natural phenolic compounds. Medical experts believe that dry red wine can prevent cardiovascular disease, because it contains abundant phenolic compounds. Secondly, Moutai has a high content of organic acid. The standard acidity of Moutai is 1.5–3.0 g/L, whereas the acidity of other liquors is 0.5–1.7 g/L. Moutai contains three to four times more acids than other liquors, mainly acetic acid, lactic acid, and unsaturated fatty acids, which are beneficial to health. Traditional Chinese medicine theory believes that acid help protect the stomach, nourish the liver, and soften blood vessels. Western medicine believes that vinegar, which has an acidic content, is beneficial to health. Taoism and Buddhism also attach great importance to the regimen function of acid.

Third, Moutai contains less volatile substances. In Moutai liquor, after hightemperature distillation and over three years' cellar preservation, small volatile molecules gradually transform into larger molecular substances through chemical reactions. Due to the long storage time, the evaporation and loss rate of Moutai is as high as 3%.

In addition, during distillation, the liquor is collected at over 40° C, at which, low-

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boiling-point substances such as aldehydes and sulfides are removed to the greatest extent. The content of alcohol in Moutai when it is first released is 52% to 56% (V/V).

Therefore, Moutai has less volatile substances and less stimulating effect but more nonvolatile substances. With no hangover, throat stimulation, or heart-burnt feeling after

drinking, Moutai has unmatched advantage over other distilled liquors.

Furthermore, Moutai is a naturally fermented product. Without any additive, Moutai is a green, organic, and healthy drink through natural fermentation. It comes entirely from the careful blending of three typical liquors (Jiang fragrance, alcohol

sweet, and cellar-bottom fragrance) with different rounds, alcohol contents, and ages.

With scientific and rational rate of aromatic components, Moutai is delicate, elegant, and well-balanced.

In addition, Moutai contains many healthful substances. Due to its unique technique, Moutai has extremely complicated

Take Moutai's brewing raw materials for example, only the high-quality wheat and glutinous sorghum produced in the Chishui River basin that fully meet the standards of "green food" and "organic food" can be used. 以茅台酒的釀造原料為例，它們必須全部採用完全達到 「綠色食品」和「有機食品」標準的赤水河流域 地產優質小麥和糯高粱。

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aromatic components and high content of trace components beneficial to health, such as natural pyrazine and furans as important components of Moutai, natural homofuraneol with active anti-tumor function, 5-HMF (5-hydroxymethyl-2-furfural) with strong antioxidants, beneficial to oral health and with anti-ischemic effect, tetramethylpyrazine with functions of blood vessel dilation, antithrombus, anti-platelet-aggregation, and microcirculation improvement, benzofuran that improves gastrointestinal function as well as pyrazine ketone that improves sleep quality. These substances play an important role in forming the unique Jiang fragrance style and lasting empty-cup fragrance feature.

They are also beneficial to health.

Finally, the alcohol content of Moutai is scientific and rational. The alcohol content of Moutai is 53% (V/V), at which water molecule associates most closely with alcohol molecule, being the most scientific alcohol content of all distilled liquors worldwide. In a typical world-known experiment, if 53.94 ml of pure alcohol is mixed with 49.83 ml of water, the mixture is not 103.77 ml but 100 ml. This shows that water molecule associates most closely with alcohol molecule when alcohol content is at 53% (V/V). Therefore, the traditional alcohol content of Moutai is very scientific and rational. With such alcohol content and at least three years of cellaring and aging, Moutai tastes mellow and mild, and has less stimulating effect despite its high alcohol content.

Today, in the data kept in Moutai Archives, the National Liquor Culture City and the Moutai TV Station, there are numerous records of Moutai's healthy effects.

人追求的美好願景，也是茅台酒本身具備的獨

功能。

特品質；它不只是一句簡單的宣傳語，而是一

三是茅台酒中易揮發物質少。茅台酒經高

個從客觀事實出發、通過認真分析和研究之後

溫蒸餾和 3 年以上陳釀後，容易揮發的小分子

得出的科學結論。

物質已經通過化學反應逐漸轉化為較大分子物

1993 年，遵義地區醫院的專家們在對茅

質，由於儲存時間長，茅台酒在陳釀過程中損

台酒廠專項職工體檢過程中驚訝地發現：酒廠

失率就高達 3% 左右。另外，茅台酒蒸餾時的

職工即使每天飲用 150 克以上的茅台酒，肝也

接酒溫度高達 40℃以上，能最大限度地排除

無損害。這次體檢結果，除一例因原患有肝炎

如醛類及硫化物等低沸點物質。茅台酒的接酒

未愈繼續喝酒最終導致肝硬化外，其餘 39 人

濃度為 52％ ~56％ (v/v)，因此，茅台酒中易

的身體都很健康，肝臟無任何病變。

揮發物質相對較少，不易揮發物質相對較多，

這一現象，引起了貴陽醫學院教授程明亮 和其他幾位科研工作者的注意。他們傾心投入，

對人的刺激小，飲後不上頭，不辣喉，不燒心。 這是其他任何蒸餾酒所無可比擬的。

對茅台酒有益健康的課題進行了長期深入的科

四是茅台酒是天然的發酵產品。茅台酒是

學研究。程明亮等專家所做的關於《貴州茅台

天然發酵的綠色有機健康飲品，不添加任何外

酒對肝臟的作用及其影響的研究》等科研成果，

來物質，完全靠用不同輪次、不同酒度、不同

從現代醫學科學的探索與求證角度，提出了茅

酒齡的醬香、醇甜、窖底香三種典型體酒，精

台酒有益健康的依據：茅台酒能誘導肝內的金

心勾兌而成，茅台酒中的香味香氣成分及相互

屬硫蛋白增加 22 倍，抑制肝纖維化發生病理

比例很科學、合理，茅台酒酒體細膩、幽雅、

基礎的肝星狀細胞增殖及膠原蛋白的產生；同

協調。

時，茅台酒富含的超氧化物歧化酶是對人體有

五是茅台酒中含有許多有益健康的物質。

益的補充，可能還與金屬硫蛋白共同協調加強

由於茅台酒工藝特殊，香氣成分極其複雜，有

作用，防止肝纖維化的發生，具有一定的干預

利於人體的微量成分含量高，如天然吡嗪和呋

和延緩肝纖維化作用。根據這一科研成果，有

喃類是茅台酒酒體構成的重要成分，具有抗腫

關專家撰寫了六篇中英文學術論文，分別發表

瘤活性的天然醬油酮，具有較強的抗氧化劑、

在《世界華人消化雜誌》、《中華醫學雜誌》

有益於口腔健康和抗心肌缺血作用的 5- 羥甲

等權威學術刊物上。

基 -2- 糠醛（5-HMF），具有擴張血管、抗血栓、

2005 年 10 月上旬，來自美國的華裔科

抗血小板凝集、改善微循環等作用的四甲基吡

學家劉傑博士在北京舉行的第五屆金屬硫蛋白

嗪，具有改善胃腸功能的苯並呋喃，提高睡眠

國際會議上，以「適量飲用茅台酒，能增強磷

質量的吡嗪酮等。這些物質既對獨特的醬香風

酸化谷胱甘肽轉移酶和明顯誘導肝細胞產生較

格和空杯留香特點的形成起著重要作用，又有

多的金屬硫蛋白等 16 個基因表達上調」的科

益於人體健康。

研新成果，進一步印證了茅台酒有益健康的事 實。

最後，茅台酒的酒精濃度科學合理。茅台 酒的酒精濃度為 53%(v/v) 左右，而在這一濃

日益進步的現代科學，正越來越明晰地探 求出茅台酒成為健康飲品的成因。

度酒精分子和水分子締合最為緊密，是世界上 所有蒸餾酒中最科學的酒精濃度。世界上曾有

要獲得這些認證，是非常艱難的事情。事

一是茅台酒中天然酚類化合物多。醫學界

一個經典的科學實驗：53.94ml 時的純酒精加

實上，每一項認證背後，都有一整套複雜的標

認為，乾紅葡萄酒能預防心血管疾病，其原因

49.83ml 的水，混合物體積不是 103.77ml，而

準。從釀酒所需糧食的種子開始，到對土壤的

就是酒中含有大量的酚類物質。

是 100ml。這說明，酒精濃度在 53%（V/V）

選擇，下種的要求到綠色施肥的規則，再到後

二是茅台酒中有機酸含量高。茅台酒的標

時水分子和酒精分子締合得最緊密，因此，茅

來釀制基酒、陳釀勾兌、包裝出廠，每一個環

準規定酸度為 1.5 ～ 3.0g/L，而其他白酒的酸

台酒的傳統酒精濃度非常科學、合理，再加之

節都有嚴格的要求和規範。以茅台酒的釀造原

度多在 0.5~1.7g/L 範圍內。茅台酒所含的酸

要經 3 年以上的窖藏陳釀，所以茅台酒較柔和，

料為例，它們必須全部採用完全達到「綠色食

類物質也是其他白酒的 3~4 倍，而以乙酸、

酒度高而不烈，對人體的刺激小。

品」和「有機食品」標準的赤水河流域地產優

乳酸和不飽和脂肪酸為主，有利於人體健康。

質小麥和糯高粱。

中醫認為酸能健胃，保肝軟化血管。西醫認為，

電視台保存的資料中，還留存了不少茅台有益

食醋有利健康。道教和佛教也很重視酸的養生

健康的佳話。

「國酒茅台，喝出健康來。」這既是茅台

如今，在茅台檔案館、國酒文化城、茅台

MOUTAI Magazine

23

Yuan Renguo: Moutai’s Global Vision

From Planned Economy to

260

Billion-Dollar Market Value

從計劃經濟到

2600 億市值 袁仁國：茅台轉型跳出中國

24

MOUTAI Magazine

TEXT/ 文：Liu Yi

Yuan avidly promotes Moutai overseas, having introduced it to former British PM Gordon Brown and former French PM Jean-Pierre Raffarin

袁仁國積極助茅台「走出去」，其中不乏向政要推介，包括英國前首相白高敦及 法國前總理拉法蘭

MOUTAI Magazine

25

Prince Andrew (middle) drank more than ten glasses of Moutai when he first tried it

S

ince the launch of the Shanghai-Hong Kong Stock Connect brought a new cross-border investment channel, one of Hong Kong investors’ favourite A share stocks, Kweichow Moutai (600519.SS), has seen a 25% increase in its stock price in the past two months, and is now worth RMB 210 billion (HKD 260 billion) in market value.

Behind the huge success of this “National Drink” is a person that’s been with Moutai for four decades: current Chairman Yuan Renguo. From the old planned-economy days to the 21st century, Yuan has been leading

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MOUTAI Magazine

英國安德魯王子（中）首次試飲茅台酒，一喝就是十多杯

the state-owned enterprise through thick and thin, every step of the way.

With the new era comes a series of new challenges for Moutai, including fierce competitions from western drinks such as wine and whiskey, the anticorruption campaign in Mainland China and the administration’s knock-down on the “three public spendings”. For Yuan, a Guizhou (aka Kweichow) native whose earthy, grounded personality never gets in the way of innovative thinking, the answer lies in expanding new frontiers. While insisting

on keeping the traditional technique of Chinese liquor-making, he plans on making a transition to the leisure-drinking market and pushing the old brand to step out of its comfort zone, striving to become a strong competitor in the global arena.

As the chairman of a major blue chip company in the A share market, Yuan Renguo, aged 59, is quite unlike most other top leaders of state-owned enterprises. He looks plain and mild-mannered, with no sign of the worldly shrewdness commonly possessed by high-level officials or businessmen.

A History in Politics Boasting a history spanning over 60 years, the Kweichow Moutai Group produces one of China's most celebrated national brands.

The epitome of high-end Chinese liquor, Moutai’s retail price constantly reaches a few thousands RMB per bottle, at times even exceeding the 10-thousand RMB. The combination of the high price and limited supply result in a considerable amount of “fake Moutai” in the market.

In China, Moutai is widely known as the "national drink”. Since the founding of the CPC (Communist Party of China) government, Moutai has always has a special connection with Chinese politics. "No product in China shares such a close bond with politics as Moutai. It holds a unique place in China's diplomatic relationships with other counties,” Yuan says. “In 1949, Moutai was designated as the state banquet liquor at the founding ceremony of China. When news broke that the plane that Lin Biao [a notorious traitor who was on the run after committing treason] boarded to flee China crashed, the first words of Prime Minister Zhou Enlai were 'bring me the Moutai'."

Moutai is produced exclusively in the town of Moutai, in the north-western Renhuai City of Guizhou Province. Situated on the east bank of the Chishui River, at the foot of Hanpo Mountain and on the slope of the Ma'an Mountain, Moutai has a unique climate with warm winters, hot summers, limited wind and rainfall, as well as high temperature and humidity. Such climate and the slightly acidic purple soil in the valley together result in the top-notch natural water ideal for liquormaking.

The Moutai distillery is built in the upper reach of the Chishui River where the surface water and groundwater are mixed together. This mixture has a moderate PH level and abundant trace elements, and benefits from a brewing environment with a history of thousands of years as well as active microorganisms in the air. Such characteristics greatly contribute to Moutai's unique taste and aroma, but also limit its production capacity. In other words, Moutai is, and always will be, a scarce product.

Complex Process, Limited Supply Yuan believes that "that status of Moutai is currently unchallenged in the domestic market". In his opinion, China's traditional customs and practices of liquor consumption have remained mostly the same after the influx of foreign wines, and Chinese people still prefer Chinese liquor. As the intense competition in China's liquor market has been going on for years, Moutai's sales have gone through many ups and downs. There are a few reasons behind the phenomenon, one being the limited production capacity of Moutai, another being the company’s commitment to integrity. Yuan thinks it is vital to the quality and reputation of Moutai that its people abide by the principles of “never sacrificing moral, never compromising the making techniques, and never selling a bottle before it is fully matured”.

He further explains that Moutai's making process involves six steps: koji making, liquor making, storing, blending, inspecting, and packaging. Such cycle lasts for one year, that is, "make koji during the Dragon Boat Festival, process Sha (sorghum) during the Double Ninth Festival, steam for nine times, ferment for eight times, and collect liquor for seven times". After collections, "the liquor is classified and stored, blended and preserved in cellars, and finally packaged to enter the market. The entire process takes five years."

In other words, it takes at least five years for a bottle of Moutai to be available to consumers.

According to Yuan, a few years ago, Moutai experienced a extreme lack of supply, pushing the price even higher, to RMB 2,0003,000. Not many people know that at the time, there were actually over 100,000 tons of Moutai in the storehouses, but in order to ensure quality, Moutai was uncompromising about not selling bottles that haven’t reached full maturity.

Leaving “Three Public Spendings” As the “national drink”, Moutai is constantly associated with the Chinese officialdom. Public opinion believes that the sales of high-end liquor, largely represented

by Moutai, will be on the fast track when it is favoured and supported by those in power; and once it is abandoned or suppressed by the government, it can quickly sink into depression.

One thing that serves as proof is that in December 2012, China's new administration began its anti-corruption campaign, prominently featuring strictly regulations on public expenses by officials. Subsequently, Moutai's stock price dropped drastically.

Yuan admits that Moutai is adapting to the new social-economic environment and striving to gradually switch its main market from official consumption to commercial consumption and leisure consumption, adding that the transition will start from the price segment. "The 15-year-old, 30-yearold, 50-year-old, or 80-year-old Millesimes Moutai with a price of over RMB 2,000 will be positioned as luxury products, while those with price below RMB 1,000 will be marketed as ordinary Moutai."

As China is increasingly market-oriented nowadays, Yuan believes that leaving the “three public spendings” is a natural course to be taken by the company, even more, marketization presents an extraordinary opportunity for the brand. He points out that the Chinese liquor market produces over ten million tons each year, which exceeds the demand. The government's opposition to extravagance and waste serve as a needed catalyst in the transformation and upgrading of many enterprises, which leads to market competitions that are healthier and more disciplined.

In China, Guizhou has always been known for its geographical remoteness, unsophisticated locals as well as its traditional and conservative social environment, which is embodied by Yuan. Yet, despite his traditional values, Yuan fully embraces innovation when it comes to keeping up with the everevolving global market. This year marks his 40th anniversary of working for Moutai— from a 19-year-old distillery worker to the chairman, he is a witness of Moutai’s journey of development and transformation, and one of the brand’s best ambassadors.

MOUTAI Magazine

27

Yuan meets with Chinese President Xi Jinping in 2013

袁仁國 2013 年獲得中国國家主席習近平接見

自「滬港通」開車後，其中一只最受「南水」 追捧的 A 股，是被譽為「國酒」的貴州茅台（滬 600519），股價在兩個月間升逾 25%，市值 超過 2100 億元人民幣（2600 億港元）。在這 家巨企背後，除了貴州獨特的氣候和水土，還 有一位獻身茅台 40 年的功臣，就是現任董事

袁仁國檔案 1956.10 月 生於貴州省仁懷市 1991.3 月 至 1996.12 月 茅台酒廠副廠長

長袁仁國，他帶領這家老國企從計劃經濟年代

1996.12 月 至 1998.5 月 任中國貴州茅台酒廠（集團）有限責任公司董事、副總經理、黨委委員

走到今天。

1998.5 月起 貴州茅台酒廠（集團）有限責任公司副董事長、黨委副書記、總經理

不過，茅台亦面臨不少挑戰，包括來自葡 萄酒及威士忌等洋酒的競爭，以及內地雷厲反 腐和當局對「三公消費」的打壓。袁仁國身上 有地道貴州人的樸實，但又敢於創新，他計劃 一方面堅守茅台傳統工藝，同時銳意轉型休閑

1999.11 月 至 2000.12 月 貴州茅台酒股份有限公司總經理 2000.12 月 至 2011.10 月 貴州茅台酒廠有限責任公司副董事長、黨委副書記、總經理，兼任貴州茅台酒 股份有限公司董事長、貴州茅台酒銷售有限公司董事長 2011.10 月 貴州茅台酒廠有限責任公司（集團）董事長、黨委副書記，貴州茅台酒股份有限公司董事長

其他公職 :

市場及「跳出中國」，推動這個民族品牌邁向

第十、十二屆全國人大代表，中國共產黨十七大代表；

國際化。

享受國務院特殊津貼專家、國家級非物質文化遺產項目代表性傳承人；

袁仁國現年 59 歲，作為執掌 A 股大藍籌

獲「全國勞動模範」、「中國釀酒大師」等稱號

公司的董事長，他與級數相若的國企領導們明 顯不同，看起來比較樸實、敦厚，言談舉止也

兼任 :

沒有高官身上那種世故城府。

中國酒業協會副理事長 ; 中國食品工業協會副會長 ; 中國企業聯合會 ;

茅台不離政治 他所領導的貴州茅台是一家成立了超過

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MOUTAI Magazine

中國企業家協會副會長。

60 年的國有企業，擁有的是中國最負盛名民 族品牌之一的茅台，那是中國最高端的白酒品

擺脫「三公消費」

沒有醉。」袁仁國透露，當晚帶往會場的茅台 全被喝光，很多英國人還把茅台的空瓶子攜回

牌，市場上「炒價」動輒每瓶數千，甚至上萬

作為「國酒」，茅台經常被視為觀察中國

元（人民幣，下同），而且長期供不應求，更

官場作風的指標，有輿論認為，以茅台為代表

家收藏。

導致市面充斥不少魚目混珠的「假茅台」。

的高級白酒，當它受到來自權力的青睞和支持

體，在袁仁國身上也有非常具體的體現。他說，

白酒作為中國人情感交流沿襲千年的載

茅台在中國有「國酒」之稱，中共建政以

時，就會快速發展，甚至產生泡沫；而一旦它

自己在廠裡的時候，每餐都要喝茅台酒，「我

來，就與其有著獨特的政治淵源，袁仁國說：

被權力所拋棄或抑制，就會迅速地沉淪，步入

的客人很多，凡是去的人我都要敬一杯茅台酒，

「沒有哪個商品像茅台這樣，跟政治如此緊密。

漫漫「熊市」。

消費者、經銷商，每次十桌以上，宣傳茅台，

茅台在國家政治和外交生活中，發揮了很大的

作為左證的是，2012 年 12 月，內地新

推介茅台，就得要身體力行喝茅台。」他笑稱，

影響和作用。1949 年開國慶典，它就被定為

一屆政府開始整治官場作風，明確出台禁止公

喝茅台有「六不」：不上頭、不刺喉、不口干、

國宴用酒。林彪墜機後，周（ 恩來 ）總理說

務人員鋪張浪費的「八項規定」和「六項禁令」，

不傷肝、不傷胃，中午喝了，下午上班不誤事。

的第一句話就是『拿茅台酒來』。」

茅台的股價隨即應聲下跌。

喝醉了，睡一覺就好。

茅台酒獨產於茅台鎮，茅台鎮在貴州省仁

對此，袁仁國坦承，茅台酒也在適應市

從小做到老，中國文化裡的「情之所至，

懷市的西北，地處赤水河東岸，寒婆嶺下，馬

場，努力地推進轉型，從以往主打公務消費市

一往而深」，袁仁國和茅台的故事，大抵就是

鞍山斜坡上，氣候特征是冬暖夏熱，少雨少風，

場，轉戰商務消費、個人消費及休閑消費市場。

如此。

高溫高濕，加上峽谷地帶具有微酸性的紫紅色

他說，轉型要先從價格區間入手，「茅台分為

土壤，共同作用生成釀造茅台酒的天然特殊好

15 年、30 年、50 年、80 年等年份，2000 元

水。

以上的定位是奢侈品，1000 元以下的是普通 茅台酒廠區就建於地表水和地下水融彙的

赤水河上游，這樣特殊的水質，硬度低、微量

茅台」。 袁仁國認為，在市場化愈來愈深入的今天，

臨危受命 推動市場化改革 1975 年，19 歲的袁仁國高中畢業就進了 茅台酒廠，從制酒工人做起。這是茅台酒工藝

元素含量豐富，再配合有近千年歷史的釀造環

茅台不單不會被「三公消費」所捆綁；相反，

流程中最基礎的工種，之後歷任制曲、酒庫、

境，空氣中活躍著豐富而獨特的微生物群落，

市場化對茅台此類品牌來說是一大機遇。他指

保管員、宣傳干事、辦公室秘書、副主任、制

這些都成就了茅台酒的獨特性，但同時也局限

出，中國白酒市場現在年產逾 1000 萬噸，事

酒車間主任、書記、廠長助理等職務，1991

了茅台酒的產量；也就是說，對供應而言，茅

實上是供大於求，政府反對鋪張浪費，正可促

年當上茅台酒廠的副廠長，1998 年出任茅台

台酒永遠是稀缺產品。

使企業轉型升級，讓市場走向健康規範的良性

酒廠總經理。而袁仁國與茅台的精采故事，也

競爭。

從 1998 年正式展開。

貴州在中國地理上向來以地處偏遠著稱，

袁仁國憶述，他是「受命於危難之中」，

同時民風純樸，與此相對應的還有傳統守舊。

在計劃經濟時代，國家包掉茅台的產量，供應

袁仁國堅信「茅台酒目前在國內市場沒有

在袁仁國身上，傳統仍在，他對家國大義有著

量從 300 噸，增加到 700 噸，最多達 1000 噸，

挑戰者」，在他看來，中國人消費白酒的傳統

樸素的認識和真摯的情感，但他並不守舊，反

企業也不負責銷售；但自 1991 年起，內地開

風俗習慣，並未因洋酒大舉來華而有所改變；

而是創新不斷。今年，袁仁國在這家企業服務

始從計劃經濟轉型為具中國特色的市場經濟，

相反，白酒仍然是中國人偏愛的消費品。盡管

正好 40 年，亦從不間斷身體力行喝茅台親自

茅台作為國企，也經歷艱苦的適應過程，例如

中國白酒市場的白熱化競爭已經持續多年，茅

推介。

1998 年產量達 2000 噸，但在銷售年度過了一

工藝繁復限制產量

半時，才只售出 700 噸。

台在市場上的銷量也時有起落，一方面受產能 局限，另一方面，袁仁國認為，是他們始終恪 守一個民族釀酒品牌的底線，「崇本守道，堅 守工藝，儲足陳釀，不賣新酒」。

不怕洋酒競爭 英王子也捧場

他說，自己一上任就要解決以前從不曾遇 到的「滯銷」問題。他用三首中國人耳熟能詳

隨著內地日益中產化及國際化，愈來愈多

的歌曲告訴員工，「第一，茅台到了最危險的

人愛喝葡萄酒、威士忌等洋酒，令本地白酒業

時候；第二，從來就沒有什麼救世主；第三，

儲存、勾兌、檢驗及包裝六個環節。袁仁國表示，

面對熾烈競爭。袁仁國認為，茅台並不怕跟那

敢問路在何方，路在腳下。」在該年度最後 5

整個生產周期為一年，「端午踩曲，重陽投料，

些聲名顯赫的洋酒「打仗」，他還分享了一個

個月，他帶領團隊完成 1400 噸銷售量的成績。

釀造期間九次蒸煮，八次發酵，七次取酒，分

小故事，藉此反映茅台在國際上的競爭力。

據介紹，茅台的生產工藝分制曲、制酒、

型儲存，勾兌窖藏，五年後包裝出廠」。換言之， 茅台從生產到消費者手上，至少需要 5 年。

聽 起 來 像 是 勵 志 神 話， 但 茅 台 近 20 年

話說 2012 年英國倫敦奧運會期間，適逢

的市場化業績確實有目共睹。1998 年，袁仁

中英建交 40 年，茅台在倫敦的溫莎城堡舉辦

國接手茅台時，銷售額僅 8 億元人民幣，到

他透露，幾年前茅台供應很緊張，市場出

「中國之夜」交流酒會，邀請了英國王室政要

2013 年，銷售額已達 400 億元人民幣；1998

現短缺，價格被炒高，一瓶普通茅台酒市場零

及兩國知名企業家等 200 多人共襄盛舉，當時

年，茅台的銷售量占全國白酒不到 0.01%，

售價被炒到 2000 至 3000 元，當時庫存有十

袁仁國身邊就坐著英國安德魯王子。

2013 年市占率為 3%，在高檔白酒市場更達

多萬噸，但為了確保質量，堅決「不到時間、 決不出廠」。

安德魯王子初時表示從來不曾喝過白酒，

46% 至 47%。

僅稱願意嘗試，「但結果他喝了十多杯，而且

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MOUTAI Magazine

Take It Slow

Lyricist and Poet Lee Hock-Ming on Showbiz, Poetry and Healthy Living 酒是陳的香：專訪知名音樂人李茀民 TEXT/ 文 : Penny Zhou PHOTO/ 攝：Dai Huashan

After making a name for himself in his teenage years and a decade in the music industry as one of the most celebrated Chinese lyricist, these days, Lee Hock-Ming is enjoying his mellow 50s in the company of good liquor, good poems and a healthy state of mind. 經歷了少年得志的輕狂和娛樂圈的輾轉沉浮，如今，步入「知天命」之年的李茀民品酒賦 詩、教書育人，享受簡單而充實的精神生活。

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I

n 1993, a romantic ballad named “Tides of Love” became a smash hit in the Greater China area, and made Taiwanese pop prince Jeff Chang’s career. However, few know that this Mandarin-pop classic was penned six years before its release by a university sophomore who had never been in a relationship before. His name is Lee Hock-Ming, and in the next 20 odd years, he worked as a freelance columnist, lyricist, poet and professor. Having set foot in a diverse range of fields and achieved great things, Lee is something of a legend. Now he spends much of his time in Zhuhai, China, taking on the role as an Associate Professor at the Chinese Language Department of the United International College (UIC). On the day of the interview, wind was howling and rain was pouring in Zhuhai. Lee braved the weather, picking us up in person and taking us to his apartment, where we were stunned by how bare-bones and how uncharacteristic of a showbiz person his place is. But in his opinion, this simplistic, low-key life is just what he needs right now.

“Poverty Makes Good Poetry” Born and raised in Singapore, Lee had a father who was a taxi driver and gambling addict who was barely home when he was growing up. As a result, his family lived in poverty and all four children were raised by his mother. “Mom had a profound impact on us, sometimes in a bad way. As father owed most family relatives money, we were pretty much the shame of the whole clan. So mom wouldn’t let us play with other kids.

If it wasn’t for my life experience in the showbiz, I’d probably still be a taciturn person today,” he recalls.

The tough childhood made Lee, the eldest son, an independent, headstrong introvert.

He was also a bright kid with immense curiosity —“I was taking the alarm clock apart when I was four, and moved on to the radio and television in junior high. Till this day, I can fix most broken things in my

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home myself.”In school, apart from scoring top grades, he also participated in singing contests and published poetry and essays from time to time. The 1980s was a time when the new music genre of “Singaporean Folk” (which were mostly original Chineselanguage folk songs) gained wide popularity amongst the young, and almost every high school in the country had their own folk band.

Thanks to his talent in poetry, Lee was chosen to be the lyricist of his high school’s band.

His total lack of experience in lyrics writing didn’t stop him from being ambitious: “We thought with all the folk groups in Singapore, it’d be very difficult to stand out unless we join a contest something.”On their graduation year, the band competed in the 1st TV Series Theme Song Writing Competition organized by the Singapore Broadcasting Corporation, and won.

This experience made a huge impression on Lee. “As a high school student, I was making 5 Singapore dollars for each poem I published. The prize for this competition was 800 dollars, split evenly between me and the composer. I did the math and realized that a song was worth 80 poems, isn’t that something? So I sold my soul to the devil and entered the music industry,” he laughs.

Upon finishing his military service in 1985, Lee went to study Chinese Language in the National University of Singapore while continuing his songwriting career.

During the four years of college, he was top of his class, published a large number of poems and wrote 12 pop records, which was much more than what most professional songwriters could accomplish.

“They called me ‘the firefighter’.

There were times when

a film or a TV series was in dire need of song lyrics, and the director would have an emergency meeting with me on a Tuesday afternoon, asking me to hand in three songs

by Thursday morning. As a student, I charged a lower fee than professional songwriters and I could produce lyrics very fast, so I always had work offers,” he explains. Lee believes that his prolificacy and achievements all had something to do with not having money.

“Having a family that lived in poverty, I decided I wasn’t going to spend my mother’s money in high school. Since then, all my tuition fee and living cost came from my writing,” he says. “Ancient poet Ouyang Xiu had a saying—‘poverty makes good poetry’, which makes total sense to me.

Only when a poet has struggled with rough circumstances and desperation, and been pushed to the extreme, can he or she write really brilliant poetry.”

The Essence of Education Speaking of poetry, Lee tells us that he had a special bond with this form of literature from a young age: “The first book I ever got was ‘300 Classic Poems from Tang Dynasty’, given to me by an older cousin.

During junior high, I read a lot of Chinese modern poetry written in early 20th century, and in high school I was exposed to modern poetry from Taiwan.” He adds that when it comes to reading, he’s pretty biased in the sense that he almost only reads poetry. His passion for it even led him to study poetry theory in his teenage years. “Poetry writing is all about emotions while poetry theory requires a logical mind,” he says. “To full understand and appreciation the art poetry, one must pay attention to both the yin and the yang of it.”

To further pursue this passion, Lee began his doctoral studies in ancient Chinese literature at Fudan University. His doctoral thesis is on the Yushan Poetry Group from Qing Dynasty. “This school of Chinese poetry has long been neglected by scholars and readers, so I decided to dig it out. Upon getting my PhD in 2007, I made up my mind to commit to academia. I pretty much left the showbiz for good, and refused to take on works that would bring publicity to me,” he says. These days, apart from teaching, he tries to have at least one poem published in each month.

Throughout his academic path, Lee had a number of teachers that had great influence on his creative career, which in turn helped him be a teacher. Compared to the relatively more traditional education he received in his youth, Lee thinks that the rapid development of technology has made some negative effects on the contemporary education of Chinese language. “Back in the days, we didn’t have computers, so we had to recite all the classics, which was an amazing training for our brain. Plus, we can pull knowledge right from our head anytime we wanted. Nowour students just google everything.Kidshave the best memory, yet it’s not being utilized or trained. It’s a huge problem. It goes the same with social abilities. At job interviews, you see those resumes of fresh graduates that look so impressive, but when you meet them in person, they can barely look at you in the eyes.”

These issues, in his opinion, need to be addressed by all educators, regardless of their specializations, because teaching kids how to be better people is an integral part of education. “I often chat with my students over tea, and sometimes when we have empty cups, it’s me that refill the cups for them, while it should be the other way around.

There were times when I saw my students in the same elevator, standing right beside me, and they wouldn’t say hi. A lot of Chinese traditions that teach people about respect and care are lost on the new generation, and this has something to do with the young generations of parents, too. I believe that it is every educator’s responsibility to remind our students to be a decent person. And you know what? Kids are fast learners! There isn’t such thing as students that can’t be taught, only teachers that can’t teach,” he says.

Raise a Glass, Make Friends Lee was an avid traveler after graduating university, and he’d buy a bottle of local brew for his mom wherever he went. “My grandmother used to drink a little glass of alcohol. She was so healthy and she lived till 96, so my mom started doing the same for her longevity,” he says. But just when we began to assume that he’s a seasoned drinker, he made the shocking confession that the first time he ever drank was in 1998.

“That year I went to Beijing with a group of

Singaporean teachers for a training program.

On the last day of the course, we threw a dinner party for our Beijing teachers and bought a few bottles of brandy. Turned out nobody in our group drank alcohol, so in order to be polite, I drank with the teachers on their behalf. That’s my first time drinking, and I did pretty well. It wasn’t until that day did I realize I was a decent drinker. When I told my mom about this, she gave me all her stash!” he laughs.

Lee then shows us his private collection, which consists of vodka, whisky, Chinese liquor and some medicinal wines that he made himself, and also a few bottles of vintage Moutai. He admits that he rarely drink along and only likes to open a bottle when amongst friends. He particularly enjoys inviting students to his place and drink together since he became a professor. “Everyone searches for different things from alcohol, and for me, it’s the company and ambience,” he says, adding that he has learned to make 20-30 kinds of cocktails because they are “more suitable for the students, making sure they can walk out of here themselves”.

Personally, Lee likes drinks that are “masculine”—“I never really care for things that are overly feminine. I mean, I hate JiaBaoyu, the sissy protagonist of ‘Dream of the Red Chamber’. It goes the same with drinking. I made osmanthus wine once and it turned out to be way too sweet for me, so I gave it away. I drink spirits quite often and I like Moutai. My record is over a kilo of Moutai in one night.”He picked our two bottles of Moutai, respectively of the 2009 and 2013 vintages, and invited us to taste them with him. “Only four years apart but they taste drastically different, right? The best wine always comes out of an old vessel. Time makes the liquid more smooth, mellow and aromatic,” he marvels. “Some of my students didn’t understand why the fragrance of Moutai is called ‘Jiang’ or ‘Source’ fragrance, so I told them to bring a bottle of soy source and smell it. They instantly smelled the similarity between soy source and Moutai, haha!”

A Simple Life From columnist and showbiz personality to advertising expert and author, Lee’s life is nothing if not interesting and colorful. When asked if he ever regrets living a life as an

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ordinary teacher, he answers that this simple yet focused life is exactly what he needs at his age.

“I found fame in my teenage years as a writer, so inevitably that made me a bit of a showy person. After decades working and sometimes struggling in various industries, now I’m so much more calm and at ease.

When my first child was born, I wrote a song called ‘I Just Want a Simple Life’, and that was a reflection of my life pursuit at that time,” he says. “My youngest suffers brain paralysis, which is why he’s 10 years old and can’t walk. Me and his mom initially sent him for treatment in Singapore for three years, but he still couldn’t stand up. After the disappointment, we went to Guangzhou for him to receive Chinese medicine treatment, such as acupuncture and medicinal massages.

Two months later he walked for 200 steps. That just shows the magic of Chines medicine.” Lee then made the decision to give up his job in Singapore and moved to Zhuhai so his son could continue his treatment.

Despite the unfortunate disease, the boy is very intelligent and precocious, and has a positive outlook of life, which gives Lee some sort of comfort. “The whole experience made me realize that we should embrace life’s hardship with open arms and a smile.

Complaining about it is no use. My boy now can walk by himself with a cane, which for me is something worthy of celebration.”

Lee believes that his serene mental state contributes greatly to his physical health: “You hear so many young people today getting oldpeople illnesses, but I have none. It has a lot to do with my approach to living.” Because of his family cancer history, Lee drinks green tea whenever he can, and takes Chinese medicine that can potentially prevent cancer.

“My biggest wish to myself is to live everyday like the morning sun. It gives lights but isn’t too bright, making people feel good.

That’s how I want to live, and what I’ve been working on,” he smiles.

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舌，甚至帶有些傳奇色彩。現在的他常駐珠海，

以從不缺工作，」他解釋說。李茀民覺得自己

在北京師範大學 - 香港浸會大學聯合國際學院

的這些愛好和成就無不「窮」有關系。「從高

（UIC）的國文中心擔任助理教授。采訪的那

中開始就沒有用過家裡的一分錢，學費和生活

一天，珠海大風大雨，李茀民親自把我們接去

費都從稿費裡來。考大學的時候家裡欠電費，

家中做客，其穿著之樸素、家居布置之簡單是

被停電了，我曾經『秉燭夜讀』來復習考試。

我們始料不及的。但在他看來，目前低調而充

歐陽修有雲『詩窮而後工』，這很有道理——

實的生活正是他一直追求的狀態。

詩人在窘迫的困境裡掙扎求存，詩才寫得好。」

詩窮而後工

十年樹木，百年樹人

李茀民是土生土長的新加坡人，童年時父

說起詩歌，李茀民頓時來了勁，原來他與

親是個出租車司機，平日賭博成癮，很少顧家，

詩歌的緣分從兒時就開始了：「我生平收到的

因此家境很不好，家中四個兄弟姐妹都是母親

第一本書是表姐送我的唐詩三百首，初中時期

拉扯長大的。「媽媽對我們的影響很深。父親

看了很多『五四』詩人的作品，高中時則大量

把家中親戚的錢都借遍了，因此我們在家族裡

接觸了台灣的現代詩。」他說自己「偏執」，

抬不起頭，媽媽因為這個緣故不讓我們跟其他

所有的文體幾乎只看詩歌，十幾歲就開始研究

小孩兒玩。要不是後來有在娛樂圈的生活歷練，

中外的詩歌理論。他認為創作是感性的，理論

估計我到現在還會是一個非常沉默寡言的人，」

是理性的；一陰一陽，兩者兼顧才能研究得好。

他回憶道。

為了這份熱情，李茀民在 2004 年進入復

艱苦的成長環境使得作為長子的李茀民性

旦進修博士學位，做古代文學研究，他發博士

格內向、倔強，小小年紀就很自立。而天資聰

論文寫的是清代虞山詩派的詩論。「這個詩派

穎的他也很有好奇心——「四歲拆鬧鐘，初中

長期以來沒有受到足夠的重視，所以我決定把

拆收音機和電視機，直到現在，家裡有什麼東

它挖出來研究一下。2007 年畢業後決定潛心

西壞了基本都可以自己修好」。在學校裡，除

做學術，算是徹底離開了娛樂圈，一些需要拋

了一直是班上的尖子生，他還經常參加歌唱比

頭露面的工作就不想接了，」他說。直到今日，

賽，並在報刊發表文章。八十年代的新加坡在

他還在任教之余堅持每個月發表一首詩。

年輕人中流行原創「新謠」，因此各個高中都

小學的寫作啟蒙老師、高中的華文老師和

組織了自己的流行歌唱小團體，李茀民因文字

大學的教授導師們都對李茀民的創作生涯給予

功底扎實，擅長寫詩，被選為其所在高中新謠

了很多的啟發和幫助，也讓他對教育這份工作

小組的填詞人。剛接觸作詞，他就野心勃勃：

有著深刻的看法。相比自己受到的相對傳統的

「我們當時覺得新謠團那麼多，要在江湖上『揚

教育方式，他覺得當代中文教育受到科技發展

名立萬』很難，最好的途徑就是參加比賽。」

的衝擊很大，其中的一些弊端對年輕一代帶來

畢業那一年他們進入了新加坡廣播局舉辦的第

了負面的影響：「我們學習的時代沒有電腦，

一屆電視劇主題曲創作比賽，一舉得冠。

所有的經典都需要靠背誦，對大腦是很好的訓

這個經歷讓他深有感觸。「作為一名高中

練，而且這些知識隨時可以拿出來用。而現在

生，我當時在報紙上發表一首詩歌的稿費是 5

的學生什麼都網上搜索，孩子們原本很好的記

塊新幣，而我們比賽的獎金是 800 新幣，由我

性沒有被開發利用起來，這個問題很大。社交

和作曲人平分。心裡盤算了一下，這寫一篇詞

方面也是，譬如工作面試，他們的簡歷上寫得

相當於發表 80 首詩啊，不得了！從此誤入歧

頭頭是道，一見面，卻不敢看著對方的眼睛說

途，進入了音樂圈，」他笑道。

話，人際交往能力也下降了。」

1993 年，一首《愛如潮水》紅遍了整個

李茀民在 1985 年當完兵後進入新加坡國

不管教什麼科目，在他看來這些問題是所

華語地區，將台灣歌手張信哲推上了「情歌王

立大學學習中文，同時也在音樂這條「歧途」

有教育者都應該認真對待的，因為教育很重要

子」的寶座，可鮮有人知道，這首華語歌壇的

上越走越遠。大學四年內他到處發表專欄，還

的一環是教做人。「我常和學生們坐在一起喝

經典之作早在發行前六年就寫好了，而原作詞

做了 12 張唱片，產量遠高於大多職業音樂人，

茶聊天，有時喝茶喝完了，是我給他們倒茶；

人李茀民當時還是一個並沒有戀愛經驗的新加

學術成績也名列前茅。「他們管我叫『救火隊

曾經有學生在在狹小的電梯裡和我面對面站著

坡國立大學大二學生。那之後的 20 多年裡，

員』，有時候電影電視劇急需歌詞，導演周二

也不跟我問好。

從自由作家、音樂人到詩人、教授，李茀民的

下午找我開會，周四一早就要交一首主題曲和

「你看，一些傳統的教養正在新一代身上

職業生涯中涉及的領域、取得的成就令人咋

兩首插曲。我是學生，收費低，交貨又快，所

消失，這跟年輕的家長也有關系。我覺得作為

MOUTAI Magazine

一名教師，提醒學生如何做人是應有的責任， 而且其實他們學得很快。世界上沒有教不好的 學生，只有不會教的老師，」他懇切地說道。

舉杯交朋友 李茀民在大學畢業後常常旅行，期間喜歡 買當地的酒送給媽媽作為禮物：「我外婆每天 都會喝一小杯酒，一直喝到 96 歲，我媽也會 效仿，因為這樣對健康很好。」可正當我們以

My biggest wish to myself is to live everyday like the morning sun. It gives lights but isn’t too bright, making people feel good. That’s how I want to live, and what I’ve been working on. 我希望自己能像早晨剛升起的太陽，有光卻不刺眼，溫和平 淡，讓人心情舒暢。這是我理想中的生活狀態，也是我正在 努力做到的。

為他的酒齡必定不短，他向我們透露自己平生 第一次喝酒竟是在 1998 年。 「那一年我參加了一個交流團去北京學 習，最後一天我們給老師們舉行了一場謝師 宴，買了幾瓶白蘭地拿來喝。可誰知隨性的團 員們都不喝酒，我只好出於禮節地代表大家跟 老師們喝。那時候我第一次喝酒，還居然把幾 位老師都喝倒了，那天我才知道自己原來有喝 酒的潛力。我媽得知後，就把她有的酒全都給 了我！」他大笑道。 說到這裡，他向我們展示了自己私人「窖 藏」，其中從伏特加、威士忌到白酒和自己做 的藥酒應有盡有，還不乏幾瓶陳年茅台。他直 言很少自己一個人喝酒，只會在有朋友在場的 時候才開瓶，自從當了教授後還很喜歡請學生 一起喝酒談天。「每個人在酒中尋找的東西不 一樣，對我來說，喝酒圖的是一種氣氛。」他 說自己學會調二三十種不同的雞尾酒，因為它 們「更適合這些年輕學生喝，讓他們離開的時 候不會醉」。 而他自己則喜歡「有陽剛氣」的酒——「我 對太過陰柔的東西不太感冒，比如《紅樓夢》， 我最討厭賈寶玉了。喝酒也是如此，我做過桂 花酒，結果覺得脂粉味太重，送人了。我還是

差，他說這種淡泊名利、返璞歸真生活正是這

時也有些許欣慰。「這件事讓我體會到人應該

比較常喝高度酒，最多一次喝過三斤茅台。」

個年紀的自己最需要的。

坦然地接受生命的安排，並且樂觀地面對，怨

他順手拿出兩瓶分別為 2009 年和 2013 年產

「十幾歲就寫詩、作詞出了名，性格難免

的茅台，讓我們一起品嘗。「相隔四年，喝起

會比較張揚，幾十年的摸爬滾打，加上成為父

來真的不一樣吧！酒真的是越陳越香，時間會

親的經驗，讓我的心態淡定多了。大女兒出世

李茀民認為，這樣豁達的心態也對他的健

讓它更醇厚、更柔順、也更富有香氣。我有的

那年，我寫了一首歌叫《我只想簡簡單單過一

康有很大的好處：「如今那麼多的人年紀輕輕

學生不懂為什麼茅台的香氣叫『醬香』，我就

生》，就是那時我的心理寫照，」他說。「我

就這病那病，我啥病沒有，『三高』也沒有，

讓他們從廚房裡拿一瓶醬油來聞聞看，他們果

的小兒子患有腦癱，今年 10 歲還不會自己走

我覺得和心理健康很有關系。」因為家族有癌

然能聞出相似的味道，哈哈！」

路。一開始在新加坡治了三年，四歲多還不會

症史，他平時經常和綠茶，也吃些抗癌的中藥；

站立。無奈之下我們帶他去廣州進行中醫針灸

他也自己泡些藥酒，包括清肝明目的菊花枸杞

和推拿，治了兩個月，能走 200 步，了不起，

酒和抗衰老的靈芝酒。

簡簡單單過一生

天尤人是沒有用的。孩子現在能夠自己拄著拐 杖走路，我覺得已經很值得開心了。」

中醫還是很神奇的。於是他放棄了在新加坡的

「我希望自己能像早晨剛升起的太陽，

當過專欄作家、闖過娛樂圈、做過廣告、

工作，來到珠海，就是為了能讓他更多的接受

有光卻不刺眼，溫和平淡，讓人心情舒暢。這

也出過書的李茀民人生經歷不可謂不豐富，當

中醫治療。」盡管不幸有疾病，但是兒子很聰

是我理想中的生活狀態，也是我正在努力做到

被問道如今作為一名教師，會不會感到心理落

明早熟，而且性格樂天，讓李茀民在難過的同

的，」他微笑著說。

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35

Chantal Chi: A Wine Heroine 齊仲蟬： 聞香識酒的「俠女」

TEXT/ 文 : Xie Chenxing

“Sometimes when a wine can speak to you like a painting or a photograph, but in a language that only makes sense to you, because the chemistry between a wine and an individual varies from person to person.” 「有的酒會與我們有共鳴，就好像看一幅畫、一幅攝影作品，某些作品會與你有 對話，但別人不見得有，因為人與人之間的化學反應不一樣。」

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MOUTAI Magazine

“有的酒會與我們有共鳴，就好像看一幅畫、一幅攝影作品，某些作品會與你有對話，但別人不見得有，因為人與人之 間的化學反應不一樣。”

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37

F

or an experienced wine lover, Burgundy is definitely the top wine regions. After spending a decade living in France, visiting all the premier Bourgogne vineyards, revered Taiwanese wine critic Chantal Chi collected first-hand information from 33 vineyards, delving into their unique stories.

The result is her new booktitled “Bourgogne –GrandsCrus”, which carries comprehensive and clear analyses on the legendary Burgundy winemaking.

Aroma in the Bottle “When comparing top wine regions, only Bordeaux can come close to Burgundy.

However, there is a distinct difference between them, and they both admit that the Burgundy whites are superior to Bordeaux.

Mysterious lands, thousands of wineries, complex regulationsand temperamental weather—clearly, Burgundy is the physical and spiritual homeof world’s best wine,” she thus opens the interview.

It was the experience of working as a Taiwanese journalist based in Europe that first brought her into the wine world. The opportunities of dining in the continent’s many Michelin-star restaurantsfor work led her to meet some of Europe’s best sommeliers, and to learn about fine wine.

Her passion for wine was thus ignited, and she started embarking on a vinous journey, visiting all the important wineries in top wine regions.

“Burgundy was basically my backyard when I was living in Lyon, and I visited many wineries and vineyards there. The beautiful views of grassy slope at night were depicted in my wine diaries. And the countless empty bottles tell the stories that I have encountered,” she recalls.“Bourgogne –GrandsCrus”introduces this complex wine region in the world, which happens to be the first wine region sheever visited.

When Chi was a child, she was often asked by her mom to smell food to see whether it’s still fresh before cooking.She has a sharp nose, a natural gift that made her a highly acclaimed judge in international wine tastings.She could finish tasting 10 wines while the others only did three. On the other hand, she has also been training her memory in order to do a better job. She uses the techniques of “Memory Box”, setting up little boxes in her head, each containing different

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types of information such as the various aromas of wines. And she can pick out useful information from her mind during tastings.It’s a tough yet romantic and interesting process, she says.

Chi uses all her senses while tasting wines, breaking through the traditional confinement of wine evaluating. She once visited a chateau in Burgundy and tasted a special vintage with the owner, after opening the bottle they both blurted out “It tastes like the music Debussy!”.

So she decided to use music to define its characteristics. In another case, she described the wine as a ball, round without sharpedges, firm and strong, which was agreed by the owner.

But Chi points out: “Once you have this career, your palate opens up. But so do all your senses.” It can pose problems. Sometimes during travels, she will need to change hotel rooms numerous times because the smells in the room can be a huge distraction.

Similarly, the tiniest noise could prevent her from falling asleep. According to her, it’s all because the “curse” of her sensitive nose.

The No-Grading System Unlike most wine critics, Chantalnever grades wine for she believes that wine shouldn’t be judged this way. “When I first visited Chateau Domaine de La RomaneeContiover 10 years ago, owner Mr. Aubert de Villainesaid to me that tasting wine is not racing, not a competition. He really didn’t care for wine ratings.So I promised him that I’d only write down my feelings of the wines and not simply giving them numbers, and I kept my word. Therefore, I need to apologize to those looking to see grades in my book,” she laughs.

In her opinion, a bottle of good wine is all about the balance. Every wine has its own personality, and the specific people, occasions and conditions that it’s fit for. There is no way that one set of criteria can be applied to all the vastly different wines. “Is a 90-point wine definitely better than an 89-point one? I don’t want to give my readers such an delusion, which in turn will suck the fun out of drinking wine.”

Chantal’s talent in and attitude towards wine evaluation earned her the nickname “Wine Heroine” in her field. She insists on stand in the neutral zone amongst various types of wine, and strands of winemaking.

Chantal Chi: lived in Europe for over a decade.

She travels around the world, tasting and

understanding the wine and wine cultures in different regions first hand. A renowned

author, she is the founder of Mainland China’ s first wine magazine, “Wine Press”. Her

important books include“L’Especil de Ma

Care a Vin” and the translation of “The Vines of San Lorenzo”. Her successful career and

reputation have earned her numerous awards

and honors including the DiplomeD'Honneur from the Bordeaux 1855 Classification, the Dame Officierd'Honneur by Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne, Chevalier de

Tastevin of Bourgogne and the Chevalier de l'Ordre du MeriteAgricole medal by

the French Government (the first Chinese person to receive this prestigious honor).

She is a constant member pf the panel at international wine competitions.

齊仲蟬 : 曾在歐洲生活十余年。多年以來 走訪全世界，以實地品嘗的方式去理解葡 萄酒，致力於葡萄酒寫作，創辦大陸第一 本專業類葡萄酒雜志《橄欖美酒評論》。 主要著作有： 《法國人的酒窩》以及譯作《聖 羅倫佐手札》等。她曾榮獲波爾多 1855 名莊協會所頒發的榮譽狀，香檳騎士會榮 譽軍官（中國唯一的榮譽軍官），勃艮第 騎士會騎士，以及法國政府頒發的「卓越 農業功績騎士勛章」（第一位以葡萄酒寫 作獲此殊榮的中國人）。曾多次應邀擔任 國際葡萄酒評審。

She never accept perks from any chateau or wine organization, even pays for her own wine during training courses so she doesn’t have to feel obligated to give certain brands positive reviews.

Capacity of One Glass Chantal admits that despite common belief, she can’t hold her liquor. Out of her professional life, she rarely ever drinks, and even if she does, one glass of wine is her limit.

“During wine tastings, no matter how great the wine is, I always have to spit it out after tasting it. And I set my limit to one glass in a meal.”

Known for her strictness and attention to the detail, Chantal always ensures that the wine glass is pristine and void of any smell before pouring wine into it. If you’re lucky enough to drink with her, you’ll notice that only on her table that there’d be a line of glasses. That’s because she insists on taste the wines before a meal, so that the flavors of food don’t spoil that of the wine. In addition, her professional tastings are typically done between 10:30 and 12 in the morning because that’s a time period when her “mind, body and senses are at their prime”.

In contrary to people’s impression of wine critiquing as an elegant and fancy job, Chantal points out that it’s hard work and can be boring at times. She recounts the time when she tasted over 100 wines in a day, the exhaustion made her swear to “never do that again”. Another demanding task it to transform her visceral feelings into words and notes. Since the start of her wine career, she has accumulated more than a dozen notebooks filled with her tasting notes.

During the interview, I find it hard to believe that Chi is pushing 50, making me wonder if it’s the wine that’s keeping her looking youthful and radiant. But turns out, Chi doesn’t care too much about the healthpreserving properties of wine that everyone else is raving about. Instead, she asks me to think about the mental effects that wine has to people. “Wine drinkers usually have high standard on their lifestyle. They like to travel and share, and are always curious about new experiences,” she explains. “When you are in such a positive mental state, how can you not look young and happy?”

MOUTAI Magazine

39

Chi’s new book “Bourgogne–Grands Crus” 齊仲蟬新書《勃艮第的酒窩》

對一個資深酒迷而言，勃艮第絕對是終極

了許多熱情的侍酒師，這些侍酒師骨子裡對

須的，她說，花香、果香、各式各樣的氣味都

酒區。華語界著名葡萄酒作家齊仲蟬旅法多年，

葡萄酒有種熱愛，葡萄酒世界裡的點點滴滴，

存儲在記憶盒子裡，品酒時再根據特征回到記

多次實地探訪勃艮第特級園，用近乎偏執的查

每一款酒的背後與人物，在他們口中成為了

憶盒子裡提取，這樣的過程浪漫而辛苦，但趣

證方式，獲得了 33 個特級園的大量第一手資

鮮活的故事，而喜歡聽故事的她聽著也想親

味無窮。

料，對其做出了全面清晰的分析解讀，並記錄

身去體驗，從此踏上了尋訪各大酒區酒莊的

了那些堅守勃艮第精神的傳奇釀酒人，用一本

旅程。

《勃艮第的酒窩》見證了天、地、人合一的葡 萄酒傳奇。

酒塞子打開，感官也隨之完全打開

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評酒中，齊仲蟬發揮著自己在感官上的敏 感，打通了嗅覺、觸覺和聽覺，突破了評酒詞

「在旅居裡昂的五年裡，我把勃艮第當

的程式化。有一次在勃艮第的一個酒莊品酒，

作自家後院，沒事就去逛酒莊、賞葡萄園。

她和莊主打開一款還在陳釀的葡萄酒後，二人

夜丘上一坡又一坡的風景，留在一頁又一頁

感慨：這酒叫人想起了什麼？「德彪西的音

的品酒日記裡，數不清的酒瓶在眼前空了，

樂！」二人心照不宣的使用音樂來評價一款酒。

杯中的細膩卻斟滿了我的心。」所以她最新

而在另一次試飲中，她描述一款酒像是在口中

「勃艮第的地位，乃葡萄酒世界之巔，

的作品《勃艮第的酒窩》，就是將這塊全球

含著一個球，圓潤沒有棱角、有質感而且結實，

放眼望去，也只有波爾多能與之抗衡。不過，

最復雜的酒區，卻也是她所接觸的第一個產

也得到了莊主的認可。

就算波爾多人再自負，也不得不承認勃艮第的

區寫出來分享。

不過她說「當酒塞子打開、味覺打開，感

白葡萄酒凌駕於他人之上。謎一樣的小地塊、

小的時候，媽媽每次做飯前，都會把食

官也隨之完全打開了。」所以現在的她在旅行

千百家的酒莊、繁復的法規，以及變幻無常的

材拿來讓她聞聞確定是否新鮮，也許正是由

入住新旅館時，常常要換上好幾次房間才行。

年份，種種的復雜造就了享譽世界的勃艮第。」

於天生感覺敏銳，賦予了她在品嘗葡萄酒時

因為房間裡若有味道會讓她受不了，就連小小

齊仲蟬與酒的結緣，源於自己為台灣的媒

快又准，在國際品嘗會擔任評委時，經常是

的噪音也會輕易地干擾她的睡眠，她打趣地說

體擔任駐歐文化記者的經歷，有很多機緣到法

別人才品了三支，她就已完成了十支酒。除

這是有了「酒鼻子」之後的困擾。

國米其林星級餐廳用餐采訪。在那兒，她認識

了天生的感覺敏銳，不斷的自我訓練也是必

MOUTAI Magazine

不給葡萄酒打分

因為這種嚴謹，齊仲蟬在業界有「俠女」

錄下來。此外，她一般會在上午的 10:30 到

之稱，葡萄酒「江湖」中有各種門派，每個特

12:00 之間來做專業的品嘗，她說這時段身

很多品酒師的評酒詞裡，都會有給每一瓶

級園就像一個山頭，莊主就像掌門，齊仲蟬游

體狀態是最好的，嗅覺味覺最為靈敏，神志

酒的分數，然而齊仲蟬從未給一瓶葡萄酒打過

走在各大門派之間，從來不買哪個掌門的賬，

也比較清醒。

分數，因為她堅信，酒是不能打分的。齊仲蟬

上課全部是自費買酒，好酒就是好酒，不好也

說：「十多年前第一次拜訪康帝莊時，莊主奧

不會因為交情等抬高對酒的評價。

貝爾 德 維萊納（Aubert de Villaine）先生 說葡萄酒不是賽車、不是競賽，並對打分數的 行為很不以為然。我答應他，不在品酒筆記裡 給葡萄酒打分，而是真實地記錄品嘗的感受。

很多人以為品酒的工作高雅而浪漫，但 其背後也是枯燥而辛勞的。最多的一次，在 教皇新堡一個所有酒莊參展的開放會上，齊

酒量只有一杯

仲蟬一天品了 100 多支酒，累得讓她感慨「再 也不這樣品酒」。品酒時既要用心品嘗，還

身為品酒師，齊仲蟬笑稱自己是「武功不

要迅速地把味覺嗅覺化作厚厚的筆記，入行

我從來沒有忘記他的話，也沒有忘記我的承諾。

好」。也許很多人都不能相信，她生活中幾乎

至今，她已經攢足了 10 多本沉甸甸的品酒

所以想在書裡找評分來判斷一款酒的人，可能

滴酒不沾，而且酒量也只是一杯，「品酒時品

筆記。

要失望了。」

完就吐掉了，無論是再好的酒，我自律控制每

在她的眼裡，一款好的葡萄酒最重要的

餐最多只喝一杯。」

不知是不是葡萄酒的魔力，采訪時，我 覺得齊仲蟬看起來怎麼都不像是年近半百的

是講究平衡，每一瓶酒都有適合它的場合、人

齊仲蟬以嚴謹和注重細節在業界著稱，

人，相比於葡萄酒的養生功能，她更願意將

群和狀態，每一瓶酒都有自己的個性，不同個

每次試飲前她都會先聞聞杯子，確認沒有異味

其解釋為對人生態度的影響，「愛喝葡萄酒

性的的酒又怎能納入一個評分標准？「是不是

才會倒酒 , 如果有幸能與她一同共進葡萄酒餐

的人都對生活的品質要求高，愛好旅行，對

89 分的酒一定不如 90 分的呢？我不希望給愛

晏，會驚奇的發現只有她的桌面上會擺上好幾

生活充滿好奇，喜歡分享。當人處在這樣一

酒人士造成這樣的錯覺，扼殺他們親自品酒的

個酒杯。原來，未免食物的味道影響味覺，齊

種積極樂觀的人生態度時，又怎能不是年輕

樂趣。」

仲蟬總會在進餐前將所有款式的酒品嘗完並記

快樂呢？」

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Vision Of A

Dragon A visit to world's first three Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant

軒軒甚得龍景朗 專訪全球首家米其林三星中餐館 TEXT/ 文 : Yu Yat Yiu PHOTO/ 攝 : Cyrus Wong

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Steamed lobster and scallop dumpling 龍太子蒸餃

There is never a true order in this world. Nothing is absolute, only subjective value exists according to so-called "moral relativism". People like to exclaim why we human beings always repeating ourselves, yet if we seek to recognise a universal order, this never-ending loop might be the only one we could look up to. As pessimistic as it might sound, we could still benefit from this wheel of fortune by focusing on what we'd learnt, instead of putting too much attention to personal emotions and attachments to life events. For instance, when looking at our past in a macro view, any gain or loss, big or small, is merely a minor peak within a long linear graph, a single moment on a never-ending timeline. People of later generations are oblivious to emotions stimulated by past events, they simply wouldn't feel the joy or pain. What they could observe is how the lesson learnt, in reference to a series of events being put together into what we called “history”. 在某一時間最先進最強大的文明，在另一時間可能銷聲匿跡灰飛煙滅。沒有一定的原因令至如此，發生了也沒有 甚麼可惜不可惜，因為經驗的累積才是當中唯一能延續下去的價值。我們今天的一切成就和弱點，全都建基於這 些經驗，建基於無數前人們偉大和卑微的成敗得失和興衰存亡之上。所以，勝利者的洋洋得意，失敗者的灰心喪 志，本質上都是沒有意義的。在無盡的時間線上，那一點興奮或哀愁，只不過是中性的歷史事實的一部分。除了 當事人，這些情感上的起伏，未必能為其他不同時空的人的心靈，帶來最輕微的顫動。

W

ith the above in mind, the concept of “mainstream” would then be an interesting subject. When talking about "mainstream culture" nowadays, we usually refer to Western culture that influenced the world in almost all aspects, dominating people's lifestyle in modern cities around the globe, especially the more prestigious, luxury lifestyle. Nevertheless, Western culture hasn't always been on the centre stage. There were times when the world was more diversified; there were also times when another culture overruled the Europeans' and became socalled mainstream. Once upon a time, refine commodities were not a specialty of France and Italy, they were an essential part of other cultures too. In China, there had been a long history of luxury living, much being reflected in artifacts as well as in literatures and paintings.

Among all, food is one of those daily life items which had been transcended into a cultural mainstay long long time ago. Fine dining isn't a modern concept in Chinese cuisines, it was being celebrated as early as in the Song Dynasty, and has been continuously evolving and being perfected till present day.

With this long history of food phenomena in China, and as one of the most modernised and international Chinese cities the world sees today, Hong Kong has the prerequisite for becoming a platform in world culinary scene, showcasing the pride of classical and modern Chinese kitchen. This might be the conditions set for "Lung King

Heen" ( translates directly as "Dragon View Pavilion", the Cantonese haute dining outlet of The Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong ) to make headlines, by becoming the world's first three Michelin starred Chinese restaurant in 2009. Since then, the three darling stars never left the doorstep of Lung King Heen, making it the only Chinese eatery that retains a three star status for seven consecutive years.

Executive Chinese Chef Chan Yan-Tak is the key person behind "Lung King Heen", the mastermind that led the restaurant to Michelinstardom. Long before this fame hit Chef Chan, he was already a much respected notable of Cantonese cuisine in Hong Kong for decades.

Like most success stories told, Chef Chan started his magnificent career humbly, working his way up from the lowest rank at traditional Cantonese kitchen of "Dai Sam Yuen" in his early teens. Despite being loaded with years and years of experience, Chef Chan remains meekly inquisitive and curious, never too contented with what he'd achieved, ever pushing forward and opting for better. He always praises his team at Lung King Heen, stresses that it's not his ability which could possibly bring the restaurant to success, but the solidary teamwork performed by everyone at Lung King Heen, inside and outside the kitchen. Chef Chan also refused to be defensive for his cuisine. Whenever he spots a dish which wasn't fully enjoyed by his guests, with leftover on the plate when waiter clearing tables, Chef will try to objectively see the reason behind, instead of blaming the guests

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The world first Chinese restaurant to earn three Michelin stars, the brightly modern "Lung King Heen" at Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong

世上第一家米芝蓮三星中餐廳，窗明几淨的香港四季酒店「龍景軒」

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for not appreciating his food."No matter how good you think you are doing," said Chef Chan, "there is always room for improvement."

It is very much an open secret that using top quality ingredients is the key to a restaurant's success, yet that is easier said than done. In this aspect, Lung King Heen is lucky. According to Chef Chan, they have full support from management and the purchasing team, allowing him to pick the cream of the crop to meet his creative needs and standard. There's one famous dim sum dish "Baked whole abalone puff with diced chicken", an all-time favourite at Lung King Heen, loved by diners ever since it's being introduced years ago. The success of this dim sum mainly lies on Chef's skill of creating the most flaky and crumbly yet puff pastry, which can hold it shape well and contains the diced chicken nicely. The few thoughtful slicing on the body of the abalone for an easy joyful bite is another crucial touch. But without the top-quality abalone, this dim sum would just be another shallow item of vanity. Chef Chan insists on using abalone from South Africa, for its opulent flavour and softness in texture. Only with such exquisite ingredient could exquisite dim sum be created, and this has to do with Chef's insistence on quality, together with his sound culinary knowledge.

In order to fulfil expectations from today's restaurant goers, high end eateries has been doing their utmost to constantly bringing new sensations onto their dining tables. Lung King Heen is indeed one of the pioneers in creative Chinese Cuisine, injecting new ideas inspired by culinary cultures around the world into their award winning dishes from time to time. One fine example must be "Steamed Foie Gras flavoured with abalone sauce with goose web". Who'd have thought of this ingenious twist to such an acclaimed Cantonese dish? By replacing braised abalone with steamed foie gras, Chef Chan successfully modernised a classic, giving it a fusion touch without loosing its original style and manner. The steamed foie gras matches with the abalone sauce like magic, with itself being silky rich and flavourful, yet not a tiny bit of greasy mouth feel. Chef indeed reinvented this classic French delicacy, and won the heart of both Chinese and foreign gourmands by this brilliant creation. Another interesting dish "Fried Puntalette with Minced Beef in X.O. Chilli Sauce", Chef Chan uses rice shape pasta "puntalette" to replace rice, creating a fried rice dish without rice. In traditional Chinese culinary practice, there had been this concept of food imitation for long. The most famous example is a dish called "imitation crab", which is nothing like Japanese crab stick made with surimi you found at supermarket freezers, but a popular homey dish using only one ingredient, salted duck egg white poached in hot oil. Chef must have made reference to this old twist when he discovered puntalette, and invented such a playful fake fried rice dish, making the ordinary extraordinary. I'm sure Chef Chan will keep on being innovative with his solid traditional cooking background, and set good examples demonstrating the flexibility of this very old food culture, successively bringing inspiration to the realm of Modern Chinese Culinary Art.

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1

2

Chef’s Signature Appetiser Selection (Barbecued Suckling Pig, Barbecued Pork with Honey, Roast Goose with Plum Sauce) 燒味拼盆 ( 乳豬、叉燒、鵝 )

幾年前，我讀了一本有關西方世界奢侈 品的書，叫《Deluxe : How Luxury Lost Its 3

4

1: Steamed Foie Gras Flavoured with Abalone Sauce with Goose Web

鮑汁扣法國鵝肝拼鵝掌

2: Baked Whole Abalone Puff with Diced Chicken 原隻鮑魚雞粒穌

3: Sweet Miso Baked Chilean Sea Bass 甜豉醬焗智利鱸魚柳

4: Braised Asparagus Stuffed in Bamboo Piths with Assorted Fungus and Tofu 如意琵琶映沙窗

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且更可能是我們唯一能普遍地承傳下來和承傳 下去的文化遺產。

Luster》。作者 Dana Thomas 在奢侈品牌的行

香港，這個本來微不足道的漁村，因緣際

業縱橫多年，觀察到這個商品文化的核心價

會成為了華文世界中，迄今最國際化的城市。

值，和它近年的巨變和墮落。作者尤其意識

雖然國際化的思維和程度未必能及上世紀初中

到，奢侈品的主要顧客，從歐美轉移到日本，

期的上海，但受惠於資訊科技的發達，香港在

再轉移到中國、俄國等這些重新冒起的世界

名聲上和效益上，還是有她一定的成就和影響

金庫。Dana Thomas 在書中提到，今天的奢

力。當響譽國際的法國米芝蓮指南，決定走出

侈品市場，已經回到奢侈品的發源地。從前，

歐美主流的彊界向外推展，除了日本，香港和

當歐洲內陸還是混沌一片，在他們所謂的「遠

澳門是目前僅有納入的地區，也是世上唯一擁

東」，部分富裕的中國人家庭，早已把日常生

有星級米芝蓮中餐廳的兩個中國城市。七年

活用品，如衣服鞋履、文房四寶、珠玉手飾、

前，在這客觀條件下，世界首家米芝蓮三星廣

鏡奩脂粉等等的設計和製作，提升到一個具可

東菜餐廳在香港出現了。三星的榮耀當然得來

觀性的藝術層次。在吃方面，那時候的中國，

不易，但每年保住這三粒星星，不讓它們被米

尤其在帝皇貴族間及經濟優越的城鄉，如江南

芝蓮人狠狠摘下，更是艱難萬倍的事。香港四

一帶，亦早已超越吃飯只為維生的原始目的，

季酒店「龍景軒」就做到了；她保持連續七年

把烹飪和各種炊具食器，變為一種文化活動。

的三星榮譽，成為世界上第一家，也是連續保

除了在表面上調合百味創造新味之外，更講究

持年期最長的一家米芝蓮三星中菜館。那麼，

吃的環境、吃的過程，甚至把一些天然和人文

龍景軒究竟是怎樣做到的呢？

的情景情愫，寄寓在飲饌之中。這個傳統，在

龍景軒主廚陳恩德師傅，人皆尊稱德哥，

今非昔比的中國人社會裏，依然根深蒂固，而

在米芝蓮襲港之前，早已是港式粵菜範疇內德

名點心「鮑魚雞粒酥」，德哥堅持選用南非鮑，

瞻性。近年，陳師傅再借米粒狀的意大利麪

因其質地食味皆勝一籌。酒店管理方面亦能配

「puntalette」，做成一個似米非米的炒飯，名

合他的要求，信賴並且尊重廚師的專業判斷，

為「非同『飯』響」。這菜在現代人眼中看來是

與整個煮食團隊一起，共同追求最高水準的出

創新；若說傳統中國飲食文化，我們向來就有

品。要做到最高水準，其實除了要精選食材，

這調皮的想象力，把一種材料煮成味道或形貌

在調味料上同樣需要精益求精。單單在選醬油

上有如另一食品，如鹹蛋清是螃蟹、蛙腿是櫻

方面，德哥就花了不少心力時間，可以說幾乎

桃等。這個炒意大利麪之所以能啓發陳師傅，

嚐盡天下醬豉之味，才找到一家滿意的醬園。

也許是因為中國菜由來多有耍玩菜名，一語雙

即使這醬園遠在新加坡，龍景軒也決定排除萬

關地跟食客玩文字遊戲，為他們帶來食味以外

難，把這唯一能令德哥滿意的醬油運過來。由

的趣味。陳師傅這種材料味道上的靈活轉移，

此可見，只有連最簡單基本的調料也如此認真

相信也是令外國朋友更容易閱讀、理解和欣賞

看待，才能做出號令天下，教人嘆為觀止的當

中國菜的起點，亦同時可能是尊貴三星降臨的

代精品粵菜。

起因之一。但莫說外國朋友，就連今天的中國

今天的各界食客，可以說是嚐盡世間珍

人，要懂得品味中國深入淺出活潑生動的飲食

饈。要討好他們的味蕾，絕對不能安於現狀一

精神，也許都不是一件容易事。這種古老的，

成不變。八年多前，小弟首次踏足龍景軒，被

在食桌上呈現的豪華奢美，是非常值得我們自

一味「鮑汁扣法國鵝肝」所震懾。當時西菜已

己保留愛護的。因為它的價值，不應只是由幾

經相當流行慢煮，中菜還未完全吸納這個方

顆星的名譽去反映，而應該軒軒甚得地被創造

法。陳師傅想出了這個借西方食材西方技巧，

它的民族所引以為傲。

表現中式粵菜精神韻味的作品，委實具有前

高望重的人物。曾在福臨門和前香港麗晶酒店 麗晶軒的廚房裏渡過不少黃金歲月的陳師傅， 他與粵菜的因緣起於少年。當年只有十三歲的 陳師傅，因為生活情況使然，已經在大三元的

The world's first Chinese chef to earn three Michelin Stars, Chef Chan Yan Tak.

世上第一位米芝蓮三星中菜大廚，陳恩德師傅

廚房開始艱辛的學徒生涯。和許多香港的傳奇 一樣，陳師傅由最卑微的底層做起，一步一步 攀上事業上的高峰。陳師傅的成功，我大膽地 歸納，可能有以下這幾個原因。首先他為人謙 恭，經常強調三星的榮譽絕不屬於他個人，而 是整個團隊一起努力得來的成果。陳師傅本性 好學，從來不因為自己資深而閉上耳朵不聞 不問。許多大廚，眼見客人只碰碰自己做的菜 便不再吃下去，只會認為這是個別事件，和自 己出品的水準並無關係。但德哥遇上同一情況 時，他無論如何都會去思考當中原因，嘗試找 出弱點所在。那怕只是某些客人個人口味上的 落差，德哥都會反覆思考，希望能洞悉箇中的 啓示，把菜做得更完美，征服更多客人的味 蕾。 用料上乘是任何成功廚房的必要手段。龍 景軒的廚房，當然料不精良不下鍋。譬如馳

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Comment Les

Français Consomment-Ils Les Baijiu (Alcools Blancs Chinois) ? 酒中無他鄉 TEXT/ 文 : Luo Hao, Yvonne Yuan PHOTO/ 攝 : Luo Hao

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Dans l'histoire chinoise cinq fois millénaire, la culture de l'alcool occupe une place importante, comme en témoignent nombre d’anecdotes littéraires et de poèmes: sous la dynastie Tang, Li Bai, surnommé «dieu de la poésie», écrit des poésies extraordinaires dans les vapeurs de l’alcool; Su Shi, grand écrivain et poète des Song, dit: «Mon corps est comme des plants de bambou soufflés par le vent, qui ploient et agitent toutes leurs feuilles. Certains sont pliés vers le ciel et d'autres vers la terre. Mais avec l’alcool, la poésie sort toute seule de ma bouche.» Zhang Xu, grand calligraphe de l'écriture cursive, écrit quant à lui: «Quand je suis ivre, je crie en errant partout, et ce n'est qu’ à ce moment-là que j'applique mon pinceau.» Pour un français cela évoque Verlaine, Baudelaire ou Rimbaud voire Villon！ 在中華民族五千年的歷史長河中，酒文化一直佔據著重要地位，歷朝歷代關於酒的故事、詩詞流傳甚 廣：素有詩仙之名的唐代文人李白，往往酒後詩興大發，寫下流傳千古的絕句；宋代文豪蘇軾也雲「俯 仰各有態，得酒詩自成」；草書聖手張旭則是「每大醉，呼叫狂走，乃下筆」。對於法國人來說，談 起美酒則讓人聯想到魏爾倫、波特萊爾、蘭波甚至維永。

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"L'alcool Baijiu", est devenu un nouveau mot général dans l'industrie de la production de vin barman de la France. 「白酒 baijiu」，如今已經成為法國調酒師行業內的通用新單詞， 專指中文里高度數的糧食釀造酒。

Si les maîtres semblent trouver une inspiration dans l'alcool, les personnes ordinaires elles aussi prennent plaisir à déguster tout en profitant de beaux paysages et des bons moments de la vie. À l'occasion des fêtes, l'alcool inspire la convivialité. La Chine en compte de nombreux types, parmi lesquels l'alcool jaune (ou huangjiu) et l'alcool blanc (ou baijiu) sont les plus traditionnels. Leplus connu des baijiu est le maotai, un alcool de sorgho fermenté, très fort (50°) venant de la ville éponyme du Guizhou, dans le sud de la Chine.

Aujourd'hui, de plus en plus d'amateurs étrangers commencent à apprécier cet alcool oriental. Mais à Paris, c’est sous une forme particulière que ce baijiu traditionnel est consommé.

Sur le marbre rutilant du comptoir bordé de cuivre du Peninsula Paris, hôtel de style néo-classique proche de l'Arc de Triomphe, trône un cocktail apparenté au Mojito. Baptisé « Rose d'occident », c’est une création de Romain, barman chevronné, à base de maotai dans lequel sontajoutéssirop de rose,St- Germain Elderflower(liqueur de sureau), NoillyPratt(vermouth du genre Martini), pamplemousse rose, jus de citron vert fraîchement pressé et concombre. Ce nouveau cocktail rafraîchissant est légèrement âpre, avec sa touche de St-Germain Elderflower; le maotai lui donne une grande profondeur en bouche et il est légèrement amer et suave grâce au jus de pamplemousse. Il marie parfaitement chaleur et fraîcheur, donnant ainsi une sensation subtile et fraîche, comme la brise d'automne de la rivière Chishui où est produit le maotai.

Baijiu, littéralement «alcoolblanc», est un néologisme que les barmans de France emploient désormais pour désigner les eaux de vie obtenues par distillation d’alcool de decéréales.Il s’agit d’un liquide complètement transparent, résultat d’jn processus mettant en jeu agitation, ébullition, fermentation et disttilation. Il porte les gènes des quatre saisons de la terre, résultat de meriage de l’eau de riviére d’

automne, la plus claire de l’année, avec la rondeur de blé, du sorgho, du riz, du millet ou encore du maïs. On le boit en shot ou en sirotant, en laissant le liquide glisser de la pointe jusqu’à la racine de la langue.

Une énergie chaude s’accumule ainsi dans la gorge, pour ressortir en partie par la cavité nasale, avec un arrière-goût sucré dans toute la bouche et un parfum doux et humide dans les narines. La boisson remplit le buveur de chaleur.

En matière de baijiu, il’ n’y a pas de traditions fixes. Un cocktail à base de baijiu, est une expérience gustative audacieuse. C’est particulièrement le cas des beijiu aux parfums et caractéristiques marqués. Les marier avec d’autres alcools, boissons, jus de fruit ou épices, dans une composition harmonieuse, est un vrai défi pour les barmans.

Frédéric Thuillet, diplômé de l’ÉcoleFerrandi de Paris, a mélangé de Nutella, du sirop de noix de coco et du moutai, l’alcool réputé de Chine. Une recette extrêmement osée! Pour Frédéric, le maotai séduit d’innombrables buveurs par son ouctuosité et la richesse de son parfum, mais c’est précisément à cause de cette caractéristique singulière qu’il a du mal à touver sa place dans la carte des bars de France. Les Françaisont du mal à accepter un baijiuchinois. Ce nouveaus cocktail présenteunparfum légerementfumé; la vitamineB3 et le tanninluiconfèrent saprofondeur de goût, toutenpréservant l’ onctuosité de maotai, qui titre 53 degrés maisdeviant plus onctueux sous l’effet du chocolat.

«Nous importerons de l’eau de la Rivière Chishui par avion dès l’ année prochaine pour réaliser ce cocktail. À ce moment-là, il sera encore plus authentique !» ajoute le barman confiant.

N’oublions pas cependant que l’abus d’alcool est dangereux et que ces cocktails originaux sont à consummer avec grande modération.

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藝術家們似能從酒中得到馮虛禦風的靈 感，而普通百姓也樂於從酒中品四時風光、歲 月靜好。逢年過節，更是少不了以酒助興。中 國酒種繁多，黃酒與白酒是最為傳統的兩支， 說到白酒，就不能不提最負盛名的茅台。茅台 產自中國貴州，是一種高度白酒。如今，越來 越多的法國愛酒者，也開始瞭解這種來自東方 的酒品。在巴黎，這一中國傳統白酒正以另一 種方式呈現其獨特魅力。 在位於凱旋門旁的巴黎半島酒店，新 古典主義風格裝修，擦得鋥亮的銅質邊緣大 理石吧台上，擺放著一杯看上去很像莫希 托（Mojito）的酒品，這是經驗豐富的調酒師 Romain，創新調製的雞尾酒「海派玫瑰（Rose

d'occident）」，澄清無色的茅台，注入了由玫 瑰花瓣糖漿（Sirop de Rose），接骨木花利口

酒（Saint Germain Elderflower Liqueur），諾

瓦麗·普拉味美思酒（Noilly Pratt），苦葡萄柚

（bitter Pamplemousse），鮮榨青檸汁（lime

squeeze）和黃瓜構成的闊口杯裡。冰爽的口 感，把接骨花木利口酒的微澀，和茅台的豐富 回味，嫁接上微苦而回甘明顯的葡萄柚汁，把 熱烈和冷靜的兩種情緒包容其中，感覺微妙而 爽快，像金秋裡的風，輕輕吹來了茅台產地赤 水河的微甜味道。 「白酒 baijiu」，如今已經成為法國調酒師

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N’oublions pas cependant que l’abus d’alcool est dangereux et que ces cocktails originaux sont à consummer avec grande modération. 過度飲酒有害健康，把白酒調入雞尾酒也將成為更溫和的品飲方式。

行業內的通用新單詞，專指中文裡高度數的糧

白酒度香味與其它酒類，飲品或者果汁，香料

食蘸造酒，在制曲，攪拌，蒸煮，發酵，蒸餾

調和共處，是對調酒師的高度挑戰。

之後產生的完全透明液體，她帶著四季泥土的

巴黎高等廚藝學校（École Ferrandi）畢業

撼，導致可能的抵觸。 用白酒調製過的雞尾酒，有著白酒的微 弱煙熏香，和可可豆中的煙堿酸，單寧酸，形

基因，在秋天最澄清的河水中，用時間溶解著

生 Frédéric Thuillet，把巧克力棒子醬，椰子

成了奇妙的層次感，而 53 度茅台白酒如膏質

小麥，高粱，稻米，小米或者玉米的醇厚。喝

糖漿，和有「中國國酒」之稱的茅台酒的混

般的醇厚質感，在雞尾酒中得到了保留，並在

的時候用極小的酒杯，細細抿品，讓白酒從舌

合，可謂是極度大膽的配方。對於 Frédéric 而

巧克力的作用下更加醇化。這種相得益彰的感

尖流過舌根，一縷升騰的熱力在喉頭匯集，從

言，茅台醬香型白酒特徵，是她征服無數酒客

受，讓人齒頰留香，難忘至極。

鼻腔中吐納，滿口的甘甜回味，和溫潤的鼻

的高貴冷艷特徵，而恰恰又是她卓爾不群的個

法國調酒師躊躇滿志地補充道：「明年，

息，讓人充滿了暖意。

性，讓她難以在法國酒吧的酒單中找到自己的

我們可能會直接從茅台鎮空運赤水河的水，來

欣賞白酒之美，世間沒有固定的陳規，從

定位，畢竟單杯品咂的中式白酒，一時難於被

配置我們的這一款酒品，那時，味道將更加原

東方來到西方，白酒被調入了雞尾酒的酒杯

法國飲酒者接受，而酒師把中國白酒作為雞尾

汁原味！」

中，這是一個大膽的味覺實驗，尤其是對一些

酒配方成分，給了酒客一種白酒的體驗感受，

香型濃郁，而又富有特點的白酒而言，如何把

又不至於讓品酒者初次感受就遇到太大味覺震

過度飲酒有害健康，把白酒調入雞尾酒也 將成為更溫和的品飲方式。

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Capital Spirits Where East Meets West 首間白酒主題酒吧在北京 TEXT/ 文 : Zhang Le IMAGE/ 圖：Iron Flowers

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Nestled at No. 3 of Da Ju Hutong is a little bar called "Capital Spirits".

You will miss it the first time, because there is no guiding sign outside the bar except the characters " 大菊胡同 3 号 " (No. 3 of Da Ju Hutong) on its wall. With an area of only 50 square meters, this bar is the first liquor bar in Beijing, capital of China. You can savor the rice fragrance liquor, light fragrance liquor, thick fragrance liquor, and Jiang fragrance liquor here. Of course, China's national liquor Moutai is also available.

中國北京大菊胡同 3 號有一家叫「首都酒坊」 的小酒吧，第一次來一定會錯過，因為它家外 邊沒有標志性的牌子，只在墻上寫著「大菊胡 同 3 號」幾個字。而這個只有 50 平的酒吧與 其他酒吧最大的不同就在于它是中國首都北京 的首家白酒酒吧，在這裡你可以嘗到米香、清 香、濃香和醬香的白酒，當然少不了中國國酒 茅台酒。

A

co-owner of Capital Spirits, Bill comes from the United States and has lived in Beijing for over a decade. He previously opened a bar in Sanlitun. He unexpectedly found that the huge Beijing does not have any specific place for savoring Chinese liquor probably because Chinese people prefer to drink it at formal banquets; meanwhile, more and more foreigners are beginning to see its charm So, Bill, together with three foreign partners, opened the Capital Spirits.

we always feel that there are too few bars around here. So we choose to open our bar here. We choose a hutong because foreigners living in the hutong, in fact, are the most interested in Chinese culture.

Moreover, people who go to Sanlitun seldom drink liquor. Therefore, we need a place with more Beijing characteristics and this hutong is exactly what we want.

Most bars prefer such bustle places as Houhai and Sanlitun, why did Capital Spirits select a hutong as its site?

Bill: In fact, initially we want to name our bar after the hutong, but the hutong may be removed at any time; we are in Beijing, so calling it "Capital" is appropriate. Even if we move elsewhere, we can still call it "Capital Spirits". We not only sell liquor, but also make our own liquor

Bill: Among four partners of our bar, three live near Dongzhimen, and

Why is it called "Capital Spirits"?

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What is Liquor?

As a famous distilled liquor in the world and a unique distilled liquor in China, liquor is evolved from fermented wine. Although China had already used yeast to make wine long ago, yet only the fruit wine or rice wine with a low alcohol content was available before distilling apparatus was invented. After that, through distilling apparatus, the wine made from yeast could be distilled into high-alcohol distilled liquor, that is, Chinese liquor.

Standard definition of liquor: A distilled spirit made from the main materials of grains by using such saccharification starters as yeast and the processes of boiling, saccharification, fermentation, distillation, and aging. Also known as shaojiu or laobaigan, liquor generally has an alcohol content of over 40%. Currently, there is low-alcohol liquor with an alcohol content below 40% as well. Liquor is transparent (or slightly yellow), pure, clear, and mellow, with strong fragrance and long aftertaste.

Boasting a long production history, liquor is famous in the world for its diversified fragrances and styles, and its special production technique is unique in the world's brewing industry. Liquor is produced in various regions of China, of which Sichuan, Guizhou, Jiangsu, Henan, and Shanxi are the most famous. Famous liquors of different regions have their own unique styles. Quality liquor must have an adequate storage period. Jiang fragrance liquor is required to be stored for at least three years; thick fragrance liquor is stored for at least three to six months, most of which are stored for at least one year; light fragrance liquor is stored for about one year.

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with a distiller in the bar. Therefore, the full name is "Capital Spirits Bar and Distillery".

The bar is not large but permeated with Chinese ancient temperament in its design and decoration.

Bill: The bar is about 50 square meters. The available space for customers, however, is only 30 square meters. The space fits about eight people along the counter and 20 people around the counter.

Transformed from the original two rooms into the current one room, our bar is designed by Greek architect Anna Pipilis. We can say that this bar is built from scratch by ourselves and is a combination of classical and industrial features. Though small, our bar provides a very comfortable and relaxing environment.

What is your orientation for your bar?

Bill: I hope to make Capital Spirits a place with moderate consumption level but no minimum charge for everyone. All friends interested in liquor can come here for tasting. The average consumption here is about 80–100 RMB per person. For example, with a price of 40 RMB, our "Intro Flight" of liquor is enough for a female little drinker.

How is your bar doing? Are your main customers Chinese or foreigners?

Bill: We have not lost any money since the opening day. In fact, we open this bar not for profit at all. Our bar has no bartender and all receptions are carried out by us, four investors of the bar. We hope that those who have prejudice against liquor will have a new understanding of liquor after coming here. We want people to know that different liquors have different tastes and include such types as light fragrance and Jiang fragrance. Every day, our bar receives more Chinese before 10 pm but more foreigners after 10 pm. Sometimes at weekend, our bar is very busy and will run until midnight or even 2 am. As a Chinese saying goes, "Monday, a day that earns little money", so, our bar is not open on Monday.

I find that there is Moutai, China's national liquor. How much do you know about Moutai?

Bill: We have Moutai Feitian liquor, Moutai Prince liquor, and Moutai Ying Bin liquor. Regarding the understanding of liquor for most foreigners, Moutai is the most familiar liquor. Nixon drank Moutai when he visited China in 1972. So, most Americans know Moutai.

But I think that those who like to drink liquor are older people and young people seldom drink liquor. Therefore, our bar specially sets up an entry-level package called "Intro Flight". It is comprised of one representative from each of the four major liquor styles (rice fragrance, light fragrance, thick fragrance, and Jiang fragrance).

With a classic style and affordable price, Moutai Prince liquor is an appropriate representative of Jiang fragrance liquor. People can come here to understand the taste of liquor by savoring these four liquors.

Of course we also offer the deluxe-level package that includes Moutai

Feitian liquor. All these manners aim to help foreign and Chinese young people to better understand liquor.

How to introduce liquor to foreigners who are not familiar with liquor?

Bill: In fact, when such customers come here, we will recommend our "Intro Flight" to them first; for whose who particularly reject liquor, we will use liquor to make a glass of cocktail for them, use the taste to get through their minds, and show them that liquor is different from what they imagine; naturally, they would accept the taste of liquor.

Do you have any innovative ideas or practices on liquor drinking?

Bill: In addition to the entry level and advanced level, we also use liquor to make cocktail. For example, "Baijiu Sour" is made from Guilin Sanhua liquor, Cointreau, and lemon juice, which has a light taste; "Python" is a cocktail made from snake liquor and is elected one of the

strongest cocktail; "Guijie Zombie" is a mixture of Guilin Sanhua liquor, Gold Rum, lime juice, pineapple juice, orange juice, and pomegranate juice.

How many kinds of liquor do you have currently?

Bill: Now we have more than 40 kinds of liquor, such as Moutai Feitian, Luzhou Laojiao, Jiannanchun, Guilin Sanhua, five-snake liquor, and Tibetan barley liquor.

In your understanding, what do you think about the Chinese liquor culture?

Bill: China's liquor culture has a history of thousands of years and each region has different liquor culture. As far as I know, people in northern China prefer to talk business while drinking whereas people in southern China prefer to talk business before drinking.

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來自美國的 Bill 是首都酒坊的老闆之一，

住在胡同的外國人，其實才是對中國文化最感

他在北京已生活了十幾年。以前他曾在三里屯

興趣的。况且去三里屯的人很少會去喝白酒，

開過酒吧，但他發現，大概是因為中國人偏好

所以我們選擇更適合北京特色的地方，也就是

在酒宴上喝酒的原因，偌大的北京竟然沒有一

現在的這個胡同。

Bill 與三個外國合夥人一起，將首都酒坊開了 起來。

大多酒吧都會開在後海、三裏屯這樣熱 鬧之地，首都酒坊為何選擇開在胡同里？ Bill：我們酒吧有四個合夥人，三個合夥人住

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而且小小的。 Bill：酒吧大概有五十平，要是實際坐人的話 也就三十平的地方，吧台坐 8 個人，散座 20

個能够專門品嘗中國白酒的地方。同時，越來 越多的外國人對中國白酒產生興趣。於是，

酒坊的設計裝潢非常有中國古代氣質，

為何取名「首都酒坊」？

人左右就差不多了。我們酒吧是希臘的設計師 Anna Pipilis 裝修的，原來是兩間房，後來打

Bill：其實最初想根據胡同去起名，但是胡同

通後變為現在這樣的一間房，可以說這個酒吧

隨時會拆；我們在北京，所以叫首都合適。以

是我們從頭打造的，屬於古典與工業結合，雖

後就算拆遷搬到其他地方，也仍然可以叫首都

然很小，但是在這裡會覺得很舒服愜意。

酒坊。而且北京酒吧很多，但是叫酒坊的却很 少，也是因為我們自己做酒，酒坊里有一個蒸 餾器，所以既做酒，也賣酒，就叫酒坊了。

你們對酒坊的定位是什麽？

在東直門附近，總是覺得這附近沒有太多的酒

Bill：我希望首都酒坊是一個誰都可以來、消

吧，所以選擇開在這邊。而選擇胡同，是因為

費不是太高、不存在最低消費的地方，對白酒

MOUTAI Magazine

感興趣的朋友都可以來這裡品酒。這裡大概人

想法和行動？

均消費是 80-100 元左右，像白酒入門組合定

Bill：除了入門級、進階級組合合法外，我們

價為 40 元，酒量小的女生也就足够了。

也有用白酒調製而成的雞尾酒。譬如「白酒酸」 是以桂林三花酒、君度和檸檬汁調製而成，味

開業後經營情况如何？客人主要是中國 人還是外國人？ Bill：咱們酒吧自從開了後一天也沒賠過錢， 但其實開這個店我們並不是以盈利為目的。酒 吧沒有服務員，就是四個投資人晚上在這裡工 作接待，希望那些對白酒有看法的朋友，來到

道清淡；「大蟒蛇」是用蛇酒做的雞尾酒，也

什麼是白酒 白酒是世界著名的蒸餾酒，

被評為北京最烈的雞尾酒之一；「簋街僵尸」 則是由桂林三花酒、金朗姆酒、杏仁甜、青檸、 菠蘿汁、橙汁、石榴汁多種內容混合而成。

也是中國特有的一種蒸餾酒， 是以發酵酒演化而來，雖然中

酒吧目前藏有多少種白酒？

這裡後會對白酒有新的認識，讓大家知道白酒

國早已利用酒麯及酒藥釀酒，

並不是都一個味兒，其實還有清香、醬香這些

但在蒸餾器具出現以前還只能

Bill：現在白酒有 40 多種，如茅台飛天酒、瀘

種類。酒吧每天十點之前中國人多些，十點後

釀造酒度較低的果酒或黃酒。

州老窖、劍南春、桂林三花、五蛇酒、西藏青

外國人多些。周末有時候比較忙，會經營到淩

蒸餾器具出現以後，用酒麯及

稞酒等等。

晨 12 點到 2 點。中國有句俗話說的好，禮拜

酒藥釀出的酒再經過蒸餾，可

一買賣稀，所以我們周一是不營業的。

以得到酒度較高的蒸餾酒，即 中國白酒。

我發現酒吧里有中國國酒茅台酒，你對 茅台瞭解多少？

白酒的標準定義是：以糧 穀為主要原料，以大麯、小曲 或麩曲及酒母等為糖化發酵劑，

Bill：我們酒坊有茅台飛天酒、茅台王子酒，

經蒸煮、糖化、發酵、蒸餾、

還有茅台迎賓酒。在大多外國人對白酒的認知

陳釀而製成的蒸餾酒。白酒又

中，還是對茅台酒最為熟識，因為 1972 年尼

稱燒酒、老白乾等，酒精度數

克松來中國時喝的是茅台，所以美國人都知道 茅台。但我覺得現在喜歡喝白酒的人群年齡偏 大，年輕人不怎麽接觸白酒。因此，酒坊專門 設置了入門級別的白酒組合，米香、清香、濃 香、醬香各一杯，其中茅台王子酒就屬於醬香 型，以它為代表剛剛好，風格經典、價格適中。 來到酒坊的人可以通過品這四種酒，來瞭解白 酒的味道。當然我們還有精品級別，可以搭配 著茅台飛天酒一起品嘗。這些方式都是為了讓 外國人和中國的年輕人更加瞭解白酒。

你理解中的中國白酒文化是怎樣的？ Bill：中國的酒文化已經有千年的歷史，每個 地域都會有不同的酒文化。就我所瞭解的，中 國北方地區偏好酒桌上談事，而南方地區喜歡 先談事再喝酒。

一般都在 40 度以上，目前也有 40 度以下之低度酒。白酒酒質 無色（或微黃）透明，酒液清 澈透明，質地純淨、無混濁， 口味芳香濃郁、醇和柔綿，飲 後餘香、回味悠久。 白酒的生產已有很長的歷 史，以其豐富多彩的香型風格 聞名於世，而其特殊的生產工 藝在世界釀造業中獨樹一幟。 白酒在中國各地區均有生產，

要如何向不熟悉白酒的外國人士介紹白 酒呢？ Bill：其實來到我們這兒，我們會先推薦入門組； 如果是對白酒特別排斥的人，則會先給他調一

以四川、貴州、江蘇、河南、 山西等地產品最為著名。不同 地區的名酒各有其突出的獨特 風格。優質白酒必須有適當的

杯白酒做的雞尾酒，用味道打開心結，讓他們

貯存期。白酒的貯存期，醬香

發現白酒並不像自己想的那樣，也就自然而然

型酒要求貯存三年以上；濃香

可以接受白酒的味道。

型酒至少貯存 3 ～ 6 個月，多 在一年以上；清香型酒貯存期

你們在白酒的喝法上是否有一些創新的

為一年左右。

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Moutai:

A Sip of Chinese Culture 茅台，讓世界景仰中華文明 TEXT/ 文：Moutai Australia PHOTO/ 攝：Moutai Australia

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W

ith a long history spanning thousands of years, Chinese drinking culture is just as allencompassing as the Chinese civilization.

Through the bottle, ancient literati sought philosophical inspiration, enjoyed company and joy, and celebrated heroic spirit and honor.

The method of drinking, on the other hand, is a form of art in its own right. Apart from a proper set of drinking etiquette, the placement, types and sizes of the wine containers were also of great importance.

Today, these drinking customs can still be observed at official banquets, showcasing the charm and idiosyncrasy of an integral aspect of Chinese culture.

Many will agree that the crown jewel of this unique drinking culture is China’s “national drink”, Moutai. From winning the golden medal at the Panama Pacific International Exposition in US in 1915, to being appointed the official drink for the founding ceremony of China in 1949 and appearing in the nation’s countless historical moments and diplomatic events—Moutai is the witness of China’s development and the changing of times.

Despite its reputation and popularity in

China, Moutai’s foray into the international market hasn’t been the easiest. For many Moutai enthusiasts, it can be a tricky task to introduce Moutai to their western friends, who tend to shy away from strong liquor because of their different tastes and drinking habits. But a Moutai cocktail event recently held in Sydney, Australia, proved that creative thinking and an open mind is the key to the perfect introduction.

The truth is, western drinkers aren’t unfamiliar with liquor, as brandy, whiskey and vodka are some of the most prevalent drinks in the western world. Once its mysterious façade is lifted, Chinese liquor can be just as tasty and accessible like other spirits. When guests took their first sip of Moutai at Sydney’s Moutai flagship store, their first reactions were amazingly positive.

One local drinker commented: "At the beginning, it reminded me of Italian grappa, but it’s richer and more complex in its taste.

The alcoholic concentration is strong, yet not as fuel-like as vodka. It feels like a stream of warmth through your throat and stomach.

I particularly like the purity and the subtle bitterness of it.” He adds that it’s a surprise to him that although like whiskey, Moutai is made from grain, it actually tastes more like

brandy, which is made of grape.

Another feature of Moutai that stunned many western guests at the event was the fact every drop of the liquor has to go through a rigorous making process that lasts for a year, which involves nine times of steaming, eight times of fermentation and seven separate liquor collections. And this versatile liquid, though perfect on its own, is an ideal base for cocktails.

Drinking culture penetrates into every aspect of our lives. In many countries, alcohol serves as a social lubricate and a carrier of culture. And cocktails, with their relatively low alcohol content, diverse colors and tastes and creativity, are widely enjoyed by people from all walks of lives, especially female and young drinkers.

On the three consecutive nights before Christmas Eve in 2014, the Sydney Moutai flagship store hosted a series of cocktail parties that presented Moutai as a wonderful cocktail base. Inside the cocktail shaker in the hands of the Australian professional bartender is not only a mixture of Chinese liquor and western concept, but also a dialogue between the East and the West, the old and the new.

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中國文化源遠流長，貫穿其中的中華酒 文化更是博大精深，世界罕見。 「人生得意須

Try these cocktail recipes at home: 雞尾酒會中兩款茅台雞尾酒配方 :

盡歡，莫使金樽空對月」是酒的豪邁與哲理； 「寬心應是酒，遣興莫過詩」是酒的慰藉與閒 情；「為此春酒，以介眉壽」是酒的尊卑與倫 理。 不僅如此，古代飲酒要遵循「拜、祭、 啐、卒爵」四步禮儀，酒器的使用要按盛酒器 具安放的不同朝向位置，以及使用不同類別、 不同規格的飲酒器具來區分飲酒者的不同身份 等級。這些禮儀在當今社會的家酒公宴上仍可 以窺見它們的身影，以酒文化的方式展示着中 華禮儀之邦的魅力風采。 茅台酒正是浩瀚酒文化中最璀璨的一顆 明珠。百年前，在美國巴拿馬萬國博覽會上，

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Moutai Mai-Tai: Lamon Myrtle, Kumquat, Soda Water, Moutai Flying Fairy, decorate with Dry Honey Papaya

Moutai Eggnog: Macadamia Milk, Nutmeg, Moutai Flying Fairy, sprinkle with Wattle Seed.

茅台邁泰： 檸檬香桃、金桔、蘇打水、飛天茅台，加木瓜干裝點。

茅台蛋奶酒： 夏威夷果奶、肉豆蔻、飛天茅台，以少量金合歡籽裝飾。

已有兩千多年釀造歷史的茅台酒裝載在一個

旗艦店裏好奇的首次品嚐茅台酒後，都給出

詢問茅台酒是否可以用來調製雞尾酒，答案是

毫不起眼的土陶罐，瓶破溢香引來世界矚目。

了不同的讚許與評價。其中最為常見的評論

肯定的。

1949 年開國大典，周恩來總理確認茅台酒為

是：「初入口的第一印象會讓人想到意大利的

酒文化滲透在我們生活的方方面面。餐

開國大典國宴用酒。隨後的日內瓦會談、中美

Grappa，但其實它又和 Grappa 很不一樣，比

前、用膳期間到飯後無論置身哪一國度，只要

建交、中澳建交等一系列重大歷史事件中，茅

Grappa 更加豐富複雜，酒精雖強，但又不像

把酒，就能談心。坐在專業調酒師的酒吧檯，

台酒都成為融化歷史堅冰特殊媒介。茅台酒，

伏特加那麼強烈，有種暖意溫暖着你的胸口；

牽引人心的不單是那宛如藝術演出般的調酒動

作為中國酒文化代表，肩負着傳播中國文化的

酒質非常純淨，而酒中的那種少許的苦澀亦很

作，和那冰塊敲擊在調酒器壁上的清脆聲響，

使命。

獨特，更意想不到的是。這種由谷物作原料製

雞尾酒的材料往往讓酒客萬分期待。

很多愛好茅台酒的朋友不免擔心，西方朋 友遇到茅台酒會因為文化差異和消費習慣等原 因不會飲烈性酒，難以接受中國白酒口味。其 中的答案可以在悉尼茅台旗艦店裏尋覓到。

造的蒸餾酒，風味竟然不像同樣是谷物蒸餾的

2014 年聖誕節前夕 12 月 21 日、22 日、

蘇格蘭威士忌，反而有些像葡萄類的白蘭地。」

23 日連續三晚在悉尼茅台店，茅台酒作為基

當西方客人們瞭解到茅台酒一年一個生

酒出現在絢麗繽紛的雞尾酒世界裡。帥氣專業

產週期，兩次投料，兩種發酵，擁有醇甜、窖

的澳洲調酒師搖晃着手中的調酒器，碰撞着中

事實是西方客人因為大量飲用白蘭地、威

底、醬香三種典型體和七次取酒，八次加曲，

西方不同的酒文化魅力，帶領大家從西方視角

士忌、伏加特等烈酒大多擁有專業的舌尖，可

九次蒸煮的特殊工藝後，都會不經驚歎中國酒

領略同樣別開生面的茅台。

以說是試酒無數了。但是當他們在悉尼茅台

文化的神奇、神祕、複雜而有序；也會好奇的

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A

Calendar That

Represents the Chinese 中國人的日曆 TEXT/ 文：Laura Su IMAGE/ 圖：Hua Xu, Wang Guanliang SPECIAL THANKS/ 特別鳴謝：Palace Museum Publishing House

In our memories, at the end of every year when the New Year is approaching, every family in China will put a calendar of the coming year and live each day in the company of various "solar terms", "holidays", and "taboos". People flooded by mobile and new media are all in hustle. Perhaps this red cloth-cover calendar can help us to slow down our pace, regain tradition, and appreciate elegance quietly. Antiquity does not necessarily mean an antiquated and obsolete thing but can also have the most avantgarde and innovative content. "Old is New", that is the unique charm of the "Palace Museum Calendar". 記憶裡每逢辭舊迎新的歲末，中國的家家戶戶擺上一本來年日 曆，日子在各種「節氣」、「節日」、「禁忌」中流逝。被移動新 媒體淹沒的人們步履匆忙，這樣一本褚紅布面的日曆也許能讓 我們慢下腳步，重拾傳統，靜品雅致——古老的不一定是陳 年、過時的舊物，也會包含著最前衛、最創新的內涵。「Old is New」，這也是《故宮日曆》的獨特魅力。

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New Style "Palace Museum Calendar" is actually a calendar with 80 years old.

It originated more than a century ago when the monarchy was ended, people were just enlightened, and the solely owned collectible of emperor started to become an important resource for the public to share cultural heritage and enhance national self-confidence. Formally established in 1925, the Palace Museum, on the basis of organizing and researching collectibles, has compiled and published a series of academic monographs and mass popular books, playing an important role in the introduction and dissemination of traditional culture. "Palace Museum Calendar" is one of these books.

"Palace Museum Calendar" was first published in the 1930s and then interrupted by wars. After that, although republished by the National Palace Museum of Taipei in the 1970s, the calendar was completely buried in paper stacks within only several years.

Until early 2009, the Forbidden City Press, a subordinate unit of the Palace Museum introduced in a lecture the Palace Museum publication status during the period of the Republic of China for its staff. The once fashionable "Palace Museum Calendar" was mentioned and attracted the attention the editorial department.

In 2009, after deliberation, the 2010 Palace Museum Calendar edition that was based on the 1937 one came out. With original style, this "revived" edition not just echoed the increasingly popular nostalgia fashion, but also showed respect for the 85-year-old Palace Museum as well as the Palace Museum predecessors.

In a new year, "Palace Museum Calendar" starts trying to develop new styles from the heritage. Such fine traditions and classical forms as one page for collectibles and one page for the date using the characters collected from the Han and Wei inscriptions of the Palace Museum have been inherited in the new edition; the new "Palace Museum Calendar" fully considers the existing habit of fragment reading, uses exquisite pictures of cultural relics to couple with short text description, and adopts the concept of "knowing national treasure every day", which is proposed by Wang Yamin, the current executive deputy director of the Palace

Museum and the president of the Forbidden City Press.

The process of editing and compiling is also a process of changing from a practical printed product into an artistic popular book. "Palace Museum Calendar" extends the Forbidden City through elegant, accessible, and popular forms and contents.

Year of Beatitude After continuation of four years, the Palace Museum Press launches the 2015 (the Year of the Sheep) Palace Museum Calendar.

In the existing art treasures, many ancient artifacts and art works use sheep as the representation object or use its appearance and characteristics as stylistic elements.

Among them, the number of cultural relic photos taken by the calendar authors alone is up to 200. "Considering that the 2014 edition has used horse as the representation object, if we directly present the Chinese Zodiac style for two consecutive years, readers might feel a bit boring. Therefore, regarding the Chinese Zodiac, over 20 sheep-shaped cultural relics are described and demonstrated only in the January subtopic of 'Accepting Auspiciousness' that is corresponding to 'Sheep'. The subsequent months introduce the more diversified cultural relics of the Palace Museum under such subtopics as 'Welcoming the New Year' and 'Fulfilling'," said Ms. Liu Hui, Deputy Editor-in-Chief of the Palace Museum Press.

When selecting cultural relics, editing experts of the "Palace Museum Calendar" avoid selecting related cultural relics mechanically and adopt a much wider scope.

For example, in the July subtopic of 'Peace', besides the cultural relics of elephant that symbolizes peace, the experts select the cultural relics of bathing elephant to tell the fact of feeding rite elephants in the capital of Ming and Qing. They also select Emperor Qianlong's "Yi Tong Che Shu" (unification) jade suits box to demonstrate the internal structure of the box that cannot seen when people visiting the Palace Museum in Beijing.

The experts emphasize the arrangement of subtopics as well. January is to wait for the Year of the Sheep, that is, "Accepting Auspiciousness". February, on which the Spring Festival falls, is the month for "Welcoming the New Year"; related cultural

relics are specially arranged to demonstrate Qing emperors' customer of using the Jin'ou Yonggu Cup (gold cup inlaid with treasures meaning the stable Qing Empire) to drink Tusu liquor and using the Wannianqing (evergreen) writing brush to write down auspicious words. March is "Fulfilling" while April is "Knowing Spring". Blooming peonies symbolize the "Prosperity" of May. June, on which the Children's Day falls, is the month with "More Children". July that includes such anniversaries as the outbreak of AntiJapanese War and Sino-Japanese Naval War adopts the subtopic of "Peace". With National Day and the anniversary of Palace Museum in October, the subtopic of "More Longevity" is used for the month. Therefore, August and September naturally go with "More Luck" and "More Emolument". Although "Congratulating Happiness" is logically expected to go before "More Children", yet using it in November not only accords with the traditional sequence of "Luck, Emolument, Longevity, Happiness", but also coincidentally extends the wish of "escaping the status of being single" on Singles Day. Finally, the "Surplus" December brings people boundless charm.

Besides the pictures and texts for collectibles as well as the dates using collected characters, the "Palace Museum Calendar" also leaves a small gap for recording some words or phrases. A few rows are enough to record the mood or daily affairs. If you have lots of ideas, other blanks are all free space for writing. This is also the reason why all collectibles pictures are not added with background but left with blanks.

Through the compilation of experts and ingenuity of editors, people can fully feel the beauty and power of traditional culture from this exquisite and bijou "Palace Museum Calendar". In today's world of everchanging fashions and trends, let's open this Chinese-styled calendar, experience the endless nutrition provided by our ancestors' traditional culture essence, and usher in a beatitude Chinese year.

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2015 年乙未羊年《故宮日曆》。 在現有的藝術珍品中，以羊為表現對象或 以其外形特徵為造型要素的古代器物和藝術作 品有很多，其中日曆作者自行拍攝的文物圖片 便多達兩百余張，「考慮到 2014 年版已經以馬 為主要表現對象了，連續兩年以生肖造型的直 接展現為內容未免讓人感覺乏味，因此，生肖 的內容只在一月以與『羊』相應的『納祥』子題 下通過對二十多件羊形文物的介紹加以表現。 後面的月份則圍繞『迎新』 『 如意』等其他子題 介紹更為多樣的故宮博物院文物藏品。」故宮 出版社副總編輯劉輝女士介紹。 在文物的選取中， 《故宮日曆》編輯專家們 避免機械地選取相關文物，而是儘量發散。七 月「太平」子題下，除了具有象徵意義的太平 有象造型文物之外，也通過選取洗象造型的文 物介紹明清京城飼養儀象的史實，還選取了 具有太平意味的乾隆「一統車書」玉玩套裝匣， 這是人們在參觀北京故宮博物院時無法看到的 器物內部結構。 至於子題的排列也有講究。1 月等待羊 年，故而「納祥」。春節所在的 2 月「迎新」， 特別結合相關文物表現清代帝王在辭舊迎新之 際以金甌永固杯飲屠蘇酒、以萬年青筆開筆 書吉語之俗。3 月「如意」，4 月「知春」，牡丹 盛開的 5 月表現「富貴」，兒童節所在的 6 月為 「多子」，包括抗戰爆發、甲午海戰在內的紀念

舊貌煥新顏 《故宮日曆》其實是一本有著 80 載高齡的 日曆。 這源自 100 餘年前，帝制終結，民智初

2009 年，經過一番醞釀，以 1937 年版

日都在 7 月，因此名之以「太平」。考慮國慶與

《故宮日曆》為藍本的 2010 年版《故宮日曆》

院慶，故將「增壽」子題定於 10 月，因此，8

問世了。原汁原味的「複刻版」，不僅僅是呼

月、9 月，「添福」 「晉祿」順理成章。 「賀喜」不

應漸起的懷舊風，也是致敬於走過 85 個年頭

在「多子」之前固然似有不妥，但放在 11 月，

的故宮博物院、致敬於老去的前輩故宮人。

既與傳統中「福祿壽喜」之序相合，也算是歪

開，曾為天子一人獨有的內府珍藏，也開始成

新的一年， 《故宮日曆》開始嘗試推陳出

打正著地為當代人帶來「光棍節」脫光的好彩

為公眾分享文化積澱、增強民族自信的重要

新。一面藏品一面日期的基本形式、以院藏漢

頭吧。而排在最末的「有餘」，則帶上了令人

資源。1925 年正式成立的故宮博物院，在對

魏碑帖集字表現的日期等優良傳統和經典形式

意猶未盡的韻味。

藏品進行整理研究的基礎上，陸續編纂、出版

在新版《故宮日曆》得到了繼承；新《故宮日

《故宮日曆》除了藏品圖文和日曆頁的集

了一系列學術研究專著和大眾普及讀物，為介

曆》充分照顧碎片化閱讀的現有習慣，用精美

字日期，也留了不大的空白可供記錄隻言片

紹故宮藏品、傳播傳統文化發揮了重要作用。

的文物圖片配以短小的文字說明，引入現任故

語，三兩行空格足夠心情隨筆、日常點滴的記

宮博物院常務副院長、故宮出版社社長王亞民

錄。若真有情可抒，其餘空白大可以自由書

《故宮日曆》便是其中之一。 《故宮日曆》的最初問世，還是在上世紀

所提出「國寶日讀」的概念……從編輯到編纂，

寫，這也是藏品圖一律不加背景只留白的緣

三十年代，後來由於戰亂而停止。此後七十年

也是從實用印刷品到藝術普及讀物變化的過

故。

代臺北故宮曾經重新出版過，但也在短短幾年

程， 《故宮日曆》用高雅卻可親近、通俗但不惡

之後就徹底埋入了故紙堆。直到 2009 年初故

俗的形式和內容實現了紫禁城的「延伸」。

狀況的講座上，提到了當年風靡一時的《故宮 日曆》，引起了編輯室的注意。

過這本精緻小巧的《故宮日曆》看到傳統文化 的美與力量。潮流風尚朝夕變換的今天，翻開

宮博物院下屬的紫禁城出版社（後更名為故宮 出版社）一次面向員工介紹民國時期故宮出版

專家的編纂、編輯的巧思，都可讓人們通

美意延祥年 在延續了 4 年後，故宮出版社推出了

這本別具中國風味的日曆，體會傳統文化的精 粹為後人提供的源源滋養，迎來一個美意中國 年。

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Snow, Polo and Liquor Moutai Collaborates with the 20th BMW Polo Masters Megève

雪山里的馬球與美酒 茅台合作第 20 届寶馬梅杰夫馬球比賽 TEXT/ 文 : Wang Jiangyue PHOTO/ 攝 : Morgane Delfosse, Patrick Sordoillet, Sarah Chen, Wang Jianyue

P

olo is a traditional sport played on horseback, where players score goals by using a mallet. According to historians, the pronunciation of “polo” originated from the Tibetan word “pulu”, which means “ball”. It has been a wide debate amongst scholars on the home country of polo, but what can be sure is that in China’ s Han Dynasty (206 BC–220 AD), there was a popular sport called “jiju” that was highly similar to polo. The book “In the Capital”, written by Han Dynasty author Chao Zhi, depicts the polo sport as “a combination of manual skills and deftness”. In Tang Dynasty, polo was considered the most fashionable sport. Meanwhile in Europe, snow polo, a variation of the traditional polo, has been a sport popular among the continent’s aristocrats, and one of the most prestigious snow polo tournaments in Europe is the BMW Polo Masters. Every January, corporate executives and business leaders from France, Switzerland, Italy and other neighboring countries gather at the beautiful ski resort Megève, enjoying the elegant polo match set against the unique snow mountain backdrop.

The BMW Polo Masters celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. From January 22 to 25, guests had a great time in this luxurious ski resort in south-central France. The Alpine town of Megève is known for its gorgeous snowy winter views, with every turn of corner reminiscent of a French impressionist painting. This year, a multitude of activities and shows was organised around the tournament, and Moutai brought even more magic to this extraordinary occasion.

The only Chinese sponsor of the event, Moutai was present in many aspects of the competition, leaving great impressions on European guests. The Moutai showroom at the VIP area on the edge of the pitch was brimming with Oriental flair. Decorated with eye-popping lighting effects, the showroom

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One of Europe’s quintessential elite sports, polo was also a popular past time in the Han and Tang Dynasties of ancient China. Today, renowned Chinese liquor Moutai, with its origin tracing back to the Han Dynasty, collaborates with the BMW Polo Masters in presenting a polo event that initiates a dialogue of ancient civilizations and contemporary fashion.

盛行于中國漢唐時期的馬球運動，同樣也是一 項流行于歐洲貴族的古老運動。而今天，起源 於兩千年前漢代的茅台酒，作為世界著名蒸餾 酒品牌與寶馬梅杰夫馬球比賽合作，是古老文 明的對話，也是當代時尚的交融。

displayed traditional Moutai bottles and emitted the divine fragrance of the liquor.

An array of Moutai-based cocktailed were freshly made and served, there, adding to the enchanting atmosphere. After the experience, some guests hailed this year’s Polo Masters as the most interesting and innovative edition in the past 20 years.

Six international teams representing five countries—France, Switzerland, the UK, Ireland and Australia—battled it out over the four-day tournament. The finals pitted Team Stalis (captain Claude Solarz, Deputy Director of French company PAPREC) against Team Fer A Cheval (captain Laurent Dassault, Vice President of the Dassault Group from France), and the champion title went to the latter. Moutai presented each team a bottle of Moutai Feitian.

Because of polo, Megève have been a go-to winter destination for many large European businesses and organizations including toptier Michelin restaurants and luxury hotels.

The collaboration between Moutai and BMW Polo Masters was a great opportunity for Moutai to promote its business and brand awareness in Europe, as well as to deepen European elite groups’ understanding of the Chinese liquor culture.

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馬球是騎在馬上、用馬球杆擊球入門的

茅台在活動期間再次驚艷了歐洲人的視覺和味

一項古老的運動，英文名為 polo，據考證可能

覺。在賽場邊上雪山風格的 VIP 貴賓區中，國

源于藏語 pulu 的音譯，意即「球」。對于這項

酒茅台的展區充滿了東方情趣。醒目而特別的

運動的起源，尚沒有確切的說法。但可以肯定

燈飾，經典的茅台酒瓶和酒杯里飄來陣陣的醇

的是，在兩千多年前的中國漢代，有一種叫做

厚酒香，現場調製的茅台雞尾酒創意十足，向

「擊鞠」的運動，與馬球非常相似。東漢曹植

大家呈現著東方美酒的魅力。很多人都說是循

的《名都篇》中就有「連騎擊鞠壤，巧捷惟萬

著酒香找過來的，更有人表示，參加了這麽多

端」的詩句，描寫了當時打馬球的情形。到了

年的寶馬梅杰夫馬球賽事，今年是最為有趣最

唐代，馬球更是成為最時尚的運動之一。

具有創意的一年，因為他發掘了來自遙遠東方

雪上馬球是一項流行于歐洲貴族的運動， 而由寶馬集團承辦的梅杰夫馬球比賽已經成為

的代表中國酒文化的國酒茅台，於他來講這是 極為新鮮，也是極為榮幸的。

歐洲的一大盛事，每年一月末于法國滑雪聖地

這次為期四天的馬球比賽中，共有六隻隊

梅杰夫舉行。來自法國、瑞士、意大利等周邊

伍比賽，分別來自法國、瑞士、英國、愛爾蘭

國家的企業高管以及各個行業的商業巨頭彙聚

和澳大利亞。决賽在以 Claude Solarz（法國環

于此，置身于這天人合一美不勝收的雪景，欣

保再生公司 PAPREC 副董事）為隊長的 Stalis

賞著高貴優雅激情洋溢的馬球比賽，更有部分

隊和以 Laurent Dassault（法國 DASSAULT 達

企業家身體力行參與到馬球比賽中，在賽場上

索集團副總）為隊長的 FER A CHEVAL 隊中分

揮斥方遒。

出冠亞軍，冠軍最終由 Fer A Cheval 隊奪得。

2015 年寶馬梅杰夫馬球比賽正值 20 週年 紀念，從 1 月 22 日開始到 1 月 25 日，這個位

國酒茅台法國公司在頒獎儀式上為每一隊的隊 長送上茅台飛天酒一瓶。

于法國中南部的滑雪小鎮和所有的來賓一起， 度過了精彩紛呈的四天。

因為馬球，梅杰夫每年此時都雲集了法國 甚至歐洲各大商業巨頭嘉賓，例如頂級米其林

幾乎每個法國人都知道梅杰夫是全法最著

餐飲業米其林協會，奢侈酒店業等。貴州茅台

名的賞雪小鎮，每一個角度都如同一幅法國經

此次與寶馬梅杰夫馬球比賽的合作，推進了其

典的風情畫作。而這一次更加特別，不但有英

在歐洲的業務拓展和品牌的建立與推廣，也讓

姿颯爽的馬兒和瀟灑的騎馬師，還有來自中國

歐洲地區的精英群體，對中國酒文化及貴州茅

的國酒茅台來助興，芬芳的酒香令馬球的豪情

台酒這樣獨特的高端品牌有了更深的瞭解和認

釋放得更為淋漓！

知。

作為本次比賽的唯一中國合作夥伴，貴州

MOUTAI Magazine

71

Drinking Intellectually 文字飲

Joseph Needham's

"Health Preservationism" 李約瑟：養生是一種主義 TEXT/ 文：Dong Tiezhu

If Newton had an ulcer in his mouth, what medicine would he take? 如果牛頓的嘴巴裡長了一個泡，他會吃什麼藥？

A

s a British believer in Western science, Newton would consider mouth ulcer a complicated issue. It was said that Newton once mistook his boiling watch for egg and put it into his mouth. As a result, he suffered from mouth ulcer for a long time.

For Western medicine, mouth ulcer had many possible causes. Therefore, even the British doctors were unsure what medicine was effective. Doctors argued that this might be because Newton's oral immunity declined with age, or his endocrine system was abnormal. Besides, the possibility of genetic disease could not be ruled out. Therefore, having an ulcer in the mouth, Newton did not know exactly what medicine to take.

Many people had imagined that if Newton met Joseph Needham (J. Needham, 1900-1995), what would they talk? As a China Hand, J. Needham would surely told Newton that mouth ulcer was caused by the excessively strong fire of the five elements.

Therefore, Newton would recover just after drinking some herbal tea to reduce the excessive "internal heat". If Newton did not believe, J. Needham would say that he lived to 95 all thanks to Chinese regimen.

Whether in the West or in China, the Briton J. Needham could be regarded as one of the most famous sinologists of the 20th century. His masterpiece, "Science and Civilization in China" not only helped Westerners to comprehensively understand China's scientific and technological development in over 2000 years, but also helped Chinese people to gain a new understanding of China's traditional civilization. The sixth volume of his book detailed the traditional Chinese medicine

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Joseph Needham

Joseph Terence Montgomery Needham (1900-1995) was a modern British biochemist and an expert of

science and technology history. His book "Science and Civilization in China" has a far-reaching effect on the exchanges between modern Chinese and Western

cultures. "Needham's Grand Question" about modern

China's stagnating science and technology is also widely concerned and discussed by all circles.

李約瑟（Joseph Terence Montgomery Needham，1900 年 12 月 9 日－ 1995 年 3 月 24 日），英國近代生物化學 家和科學技術史專家，其所著《中國的科學與文明》（即 《中國科學技術史》）對現代中西文化交流影響深遠。他 關於中國科技停滯的李約瑟難題也引起各界關注和討論。

(TCM) from such perspectives as China's regimen tradition, ancient forensic medicine, medicine, and immunology.

J. Needham's interest in TCM was more or less because of his antipathy to Western medicine. His father was an old-fashioned and stingy doctor whereas his mother was a willful and unrestrained musician. As a result, the quarrel between J. Needham's parents became almost an everyday scene since his childhood. This quarrelsome couple, however, had one thing in common: snobbery. They remained distant from all poor relatives and did not allow J. Needham to associate with poor children. This led to J. Needham's question about the British culture since his childhood and his interest in the leftwing communist revolution since his youth; although he went to study chemistry and biology in Cambridge University based on the instruction of his father, he did not fully accept the scientific spirit of the West; instead, he was very interested in mysticism. 1937 is an important turning point for J. Needham's life. That year, he met three scientists from China in Cambridge and found that the ancient and young Chinese civilization was exactly a perfect combination of communism and mysticism; the theory of TCM was mysterious as well as effective, and also fit the relations among people of the society.

At his 40s and well-educated by Western science, J. Needham quickly accepted the theories of yin and yang as well as five elements. Chinese philosophy believed that yin and yang were the two poles of qi (air), although against each other, yet coexisted in all things. When yin and yang were in balance, for the world, the weather was favorable;

for the family, couples were harmonious; for individual, the body was healthy. J. Needham took gene theory as example and believed that the recessive and dominant genes were just the manifestation of yin and yang. If yin and yang were in imbalance, then not just people would get sick, both family and society would be "sick" as well.

J. Needham spoke highly of Chinese people's health care and regimen consciousness. In the 1960s, he published the famous article "Regimen and Preventive Medicine of Ancient China", at which he pointed out that in ancient China, "philosophers and physicians were concerned with the same topic." In J. Needham's opinion, it was the thought of "thinking of danger in times of peace" in "I Ching" (Book of Changes) and the view of "danger is the next neighbor to security" in "Lao Zi" that led Chinese to pay more attention to disease prevention than Westerners. For Westerners, fitness was almost the same as exercise. J. Needham, however, believed that the regimen of Chinese people included not just exercise.

Instead, many aspects such as diet, living, and mood in daily life would affect health. In other words, regimen was a philosophy and a guiding doctrine of life. Such regimen model linked individuals together with the entire world; it not only kept an individual healthy, but also harmonized the relation with others.

Therefore, it was also suitable to rule a country or the world.

In this way, J. Needham demonstrated the value of TCM in the arena of history. Before J. Needham, many foreign sinologists described or evaluated TCM only from the perspective of pure science. As a result, most of them would come to such a conclusion like "China's regimen is not 'scientific'". Different from ordinary scholars, J. Needham explored from the perspective of history not just the efficacy of Chinese medicine. Instead, he focused more on different practices carried out for TCM regimen by people of difference genders, different ethnic groups, and different classes in the history. The reason was that, in J. Needham's opinion, TCM regimen, first of all, was an attitude to life; it might not be entirely scientific, but for different people, it did have different effects; therefore, the evaluation of TCM regimen made sense only in the context of specific historic period.

Scholars, with Nathan Sivin as their representative, believed that J. Needham's TCM research in the context of historic period was an epoch-making creation, which made him a part of history: Without the old-fashion of his father or snobbery of his mother, J. Needham lived with a common heart to 95 years old and used his entire life to interpret the magical effect of TCM regimen.

生命的重要轉折。這一年，他在劍橋遇到了三 位從中國來的科學家，於是他發現，古老而年 輕的中國文明正是共產主義和神秘主義的完美 結合，而中醫的理論，則不僅神秘而有效，更 與社會中人和人的關系相合。 已屆不惑之年且受過良好西方科學訓練的 李約瑟很快地接受了陰陽五行的理論。中國哲 學認為陰陽是氣的兩極，兩者對立而又並存於 萬物之中。當陰陽平衡之時，對於天地來說， 則風調雨順；對家庭來說，則夫妻和睦；對個 人來說，則身體康健。李約瑟以基因學說為例，

作為一個信奉西方科學的英國人，牛頓會

認為隱性和顯性基因正好是陰陽的表現。如果

認為口腔潰瘍是個復雜的問題。據說牛頓在不

陰陽失衡，那麼不但人會生病，就連家庭和社

小心把煮燙了的手表當做雞蛋放進嘴裡之後，

會也一樣會「生病」。

在很長一段時間內飽受口腔潰瘍的困擾。對於

李約瑟非常推崇中國人的保健和養生意

西方醫學來說，口腔潰瘍的成因有很多種可能，

識。上個世紀六十年代，他發表了著名的《古

因此到底什麼藥能奏效，英國的醫生們也不敢

代中國的養生術和預防醫學》一文，指出在古

打包票，醫生們爭論說這也許是因為牛頓年紀

代中國，「哲學家和醫學家所關注的是同一話

大了口腔免疫力下降，也可能是內分泌不正常，

題」。在李約瑟看來，正是《易經》中君子居

也無法排除遺傳病的可能性——於是，嘴裡長

安思危的思想和《老子》中福禍相依的觀點，

了泡的牛頓不知道究竟該吃什麼藥。

讓中國人比西方人更加注重防病。對西方人來

不少人曾經想像，要是牛頓遇到了李約瑟

說，健身基本等同於鍛煉身體，而李約瑟認為

（J. Needham，1900-1995），會有什麼樣的

中國人的養生絕不局限於單純的鍛煉，飲食、

談話。作為中國通的李約瑟，必然會告訴牛頓，

起居、心情等生活的方方面面都會對身體健康

嘴裡長泡是因為五行中的火過於旺盛，喝點涼

造成影響，而是一種人生觀，一種指導著人生

茶去去火就沒事了。要是牛頓不相信，李約瑟

活的主義。這樣的養生模式把個人和整個世界

就會說，自己活到 95，都是中國養生術的功勞。

都聯系在一起，在做到自己身體康健的同時，

無論在西方還是在中國，英國人李約瑟

必然也會與人和諧相處，從而可以治國平天下。

都可以算得上 20 世紀最著名的漢學家之一。

就這樣，李約瑟把中醫的價值放在了歷史

其巨著《中國科技史》不僅讓西方人對中國

舞台之上。在李約瑟之前，不少國外漢學家介

2000 多年來的科學技術發展有了全面的了解，

紹或評價中醫，都是從純科學的角度出發，從

而且讓中國人對自己的傳統文明有了新的認

而大多會得出中國的養生術並不「科學」這樣

識，其中的第六卷從中國的養生傳統、中國古

的結論。而李約瑟之所以與眾不同，就是因為

代的法醫、中國的醫藥和中國的免疫學等角度

他從歷史角度出發，不單純的探討醫藥的療效，

詳細介紹了中醫。

而更多的把目光放在了歷史上不同性別、不同

李約瑟對中醫的興趣，或多或少是因為

民族和不同社會階層的人們對中醫養生的不同

對西方醫學的抵觸。他的父親就是一個醫生，

實踐之上——因為在李約瑟看來，中醫養生首

古板而吝嗇；而他的母親是個音樂家，任性而

先是一種生活態度，它也許並不全然科學，但

奔放。於是父母之間的吵鬧就成了李約瑟自兒

是對於不同的人來說的確有著不同的效果，審

時起幾乎天天面對的場景。不過這對爭吵不休

視中醫養生也就要放在特定的歷史時期才有意

的夫妻有一個共同之處：勢利。他們對一切窮

義。

親戚都敬而遠之，也不讓李約瑟和窮人的孩子

以 Nathan Sivin 為代表的學者們認為李

交往。這讓李約瑟從小就對英國文化產生了質

約瑟將中醫研究歷史化是一個劃時代的創舉，

疑，年輕時就熱衷於左翼的共產革命；盡管他

這讓李約瑟自己也成為了歷史的一部分：沒有

聽從父親到劍橋大學學習化學和生物，卻並沒

了父親的古板和母親的勢利，懷著一顆平常心

有拜服於西方的科學精神，反而對神秘主義產

的李約瑟活到了 95 歲的高齡，用自己的一生

生了巨大的興趣。1937 年，對李約瑟來說是

詮釋了中國傳統養生術的神奇功效。

MOUTAI Magazine

73

Fashionably Drunk 時尚飲食

Into the Woods:

The HealthyDrinking Trend is Hitting Hong Kong 自然之味：

健康飲品成為香港潮人之選

I

TEXT/ 文：Johannes Pong

remember when the after hours club Homebase opened in a basement down a flight of stairs on Hollywood Road, one of Hong Kong’s major nightlife neighborhoods.

It was where everyone went after other clubs kicked them out at 5am. I spent many a weekend morning in that dirty den of inequity, marinating in secondhand smoke, eardrums tickled, titillated and violated with progressive house and trance music. And you would hear drunken friends or total strangers recount their bizarre, over-the-top real life experiences, scandalous gossip that made or broke careers in Central, epic histories that created legends in Hong Kong.

But alas, everything changes in this ephemeral city. A hand-blown glass sculpture now greets you as you open the door to the basement on Hollywood. Instead of a dark and dingy after hours club, a spacious underground sylvan forest now opens up before your very eyes as you make your descent. The space is now called The Woods, a cool concept cocktail lounge, complete with an exclusive Prix Fixe bar, an exclusive eightseater serving a seasonal set menu of creative cocktails paired with four courses of food ($788 per person by reservations only). The menu reads like hipster haiku: APPETIZER “GRASS” paired with jumbo asparagus and bayonne; MAIN COURSE “EARTH” paired with escargot; DESSERT “JAM” paired with berries; DIGESTIF “CAMPFIRE” paired with s’mores.

Opened by three sisters, the venue boasts warm woods and an interior aesthetic embodying “komorebi” — that cute, quaint Japanese word for the interplay of light and leaves when sunlight filters through a forest.

A debauched, degenerate part of me misses sipping vodka sodas at 5:30am in Homebase.

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But I guess that wouldn’t be too healthier a habit to keep when one is in their thirties.

Now I quite like going into The Woods for their one-of-a-kind cocktails, from seasonal creations to their list of standards. My favorites include their Beet Negroni (beetrootinfused Tanqueray Gin, Dolin Rosso Vermouth, Campari), or that sweet Oak Whiskey Sour (French oak-infused Michter’s Rye Whiskey, Canadian maple syrup, fresh lemon juice and egg white). And I can still work my dirty thirties decadently with their Dirty Dill Martini (dill-infused Tito’s Vodka, pickle brine, Dolin Vermouth, mustard seeds and a gherkin.

Getting on the healthy new year resolution agenda wagon, The Woods also offer a five-bottle set of juice blends ($280 for two), cold-pressed in-house, served stylishly in an ice bucket with your own bottle opener (water with mint, lemon zest and blueberries; grapefruit, orange, lemon, cayenne pepper; beetroot, red apple, carrot; celery, spinach, green apple, cucumber, parsley). It’s still a cocktail bar, so their “Detox-to-Retox Mondays” ends with a cheeky low-alcohol “Shim” Cocktail, a concoction of carrot, ginger, Kamm & Sons Ginseng Liqueur plus vodka to chase all those juices. That, together with the sugar rush from all the liquified fresh fruit flowing in my veins certainly got me and my drinking companion giggling like school girls during Happy Hour on a Meatless Monday. I decided to get the beetroot quinoa dish with fresh orange dressing for a supplementary $80.

Juicing is certainly a health trend that sees no sign of stopping. Cold-press bars are popping up every minute around every cosmopolitan city. The greener kinds made with more leafy greens and vegetables

certainly provide a concentrated boost of vegetable goodness that you wouldn’t normally get to consume that much, but too many sweet fruits in your juice isn’t that good for you either.

People who experience their first juice “cleanse” usually report saying that they feel incredibly fresh and alive afterwards. Well honey, that’s because you’re bouncing off the walls on a total sugar high. While it’s certainly healthier than binging on a whole bag of milk chocolates, a daily concentrated burst of fructose from the apples, blueberries and oranges coursing through you means an overdose of sugar.

Basically if you are juicing daily, but choosing a blend that’s predominantly made of sweet fruits, you’re an insane sugar addict.

Please stop. Remember to pick just one sweet fruit to two to three leafy greens. Carrots and beets also contain a lot of sugar, so use those vegetables sparingly as well. Raw vegetables are considered very cooling in both traditional Chinese medicine as well as Indian Ayurveda, so it’s crucial to add a sliver of ginger, garlic or turmeric, especially for the ladies.

My drinking companion, who is in fact a juice head, also happens to have been doing freelance PR for SOHOFAMA, a contemporary Chinese restaurant cum bar with an organic mini farm on their patio within the ultrapopular PMQ compound. They serve hydroponic cocktails like (Chinese smoked) Plum Sours and Orange Peel Porridge, and they’re trying to make traditional herbal soups hip enough for the Central crowd. My drinking partner mentioned how Cantonese soups — tonics boiled and double-boiled daily by our maids, mothers and grandmothers — are basically the Eastern equivalent of juicing.

But of course, it’s the other spectrum of health food, of slow-cooking, cultivating heat to laboriously extract all the nutrients from all Chinese herbs and ingredients.

Cold-pressed juices are like a nectar of anti-oxidants, vitamins, raw minerals and enzymes that our modern urban bodies crave, and instant health hit to our bloodstream. It’ s basically medicine for our over-stressed, polluted cells. Like any fad from the West, it works fast. For me personally, I believe juicing should be done in moderation. Like any drug or treatment, it should be stopped after a while. My own green juices cold-pressed daily at home (and I love bitter gourd) were like magical ambrosia, a daily miracle potion for me three years ago when I was detoxing from all those nights and mornings at Homebase.

And then after a while, I didn’t feel the need to continue that regimen. Everything in moderation, and you have to listen to your own body, I guess. My own seasonal formula: more cold-pressed juicing in the summer, more Cantonese soup boiling come autumn and winter.

酒吧的創辦人是三姐妹，室內設計靈感 則來自是樹林，和葉片隙間撒落的陽光。雖然

但是一日內集中吸收比平時多很多的果糖還是 會讓身體一下子不適應。

多年來習慣了在周六的清晨吮飲 Homebase 的

基本上來說，如果你每天都喝榨蔬果汁，

伏特加蘇打水，但這習慣對要步入中年的我來

但因為喜歡吃甜而主要都是選了甜的水果汁，

說真的有點不健康。現在，我找到了適合自己

那你必須停止喝了！記得只能挑一種甜的水果

的飲品：The Woods 獨一無二的招牌雞尾酒。

和 2 到 3 種綠色蔬菜的蔬果汁。胡蘿蔔和紅菜

從季節性的雞尾創作酒到他們的標準酒單，我

頭其實也含有大量的糖分，所以也要少量地選

最愛的是他們那 Beet Negroni（ 紅菜頭加入

這些蔬菜。生蔬菜一直都被中醫和印度韋達養

添加利金酒、道林羅梭苦艾酒和金巴釐苦酒）

生學認為屬寒性食物，所以建議添加一點薑、

和那甜甜的橡木桶威士卡酸酒（法國橡木加

大蒜或薑黃來食用，尤其是對於女性更為重

入 Richter 黑麥威士卡、加拿大的楓糖漿、新

要。

鮮檸檬汁和蛋白）。我這 30 多歲的身體應該還

其實，我一道隨行的酒友也是個排毒果汁

能承受他們的蒔蘿馬提尼酒（蒔蘿加入鐵托伏

的忠實粉絲，並是 SOHOFAMA 的兼職公關。

特酒、醃鹵蒔蘿、道林苦艾酒、芥末籽和小黃

SOHOFAMA 是一家當代的中國餐廳兼酒吧，

瓜）。

坐落於中環超人氣的 PMQ 創意區，露臺裡有

一年之始，The Woods 還為勵志在新的

一塊有機迷你農地。那裡有提供水栽的蔬果雞

一年健康生活的人們准備了一套 5 瓶的果汁

尾酒，像酸梅（中式醃製）加橘子皮水，他們

（＄280/2 人。果汁分別為薄荷加水、檸檬皮、

又試圖想讓傳統中草湯藥被那些趕潮流的人群

藍莓；葡萄柚、橙、檸檬、辣椒；紅菜頭、紅

所接受。朋友更提到粵式的湯—— 每天由媽

蘋果、胡蘿蔔；芹菜、菠菜、青蘋果、黃瓜、

媽和祖母們燉煮出來補品和原盅燉湯，這些作

香芹），經內部冷壓，放在時尚新穎的冰桶裡，

用都基本上相當於東方國家的榨蔬果汁。細火

並配上個人的開瓶器。由於那裡仍然是一個雞

的烹燉，慢火加熱，並費力地從那些中國草藥

尾酒酒吧，所以這份酒單由一杯頑皮的低酒精

和材料中提取所有的營養物質，這是另一個形

還記得香港的主要酒吧區中環的荷裡活

「Shim」雞尾酒（用胡蘿蔔、薑、卡姆人參白

道，曾經有一家叫 Homebase 的俱樂部。在凌

酒加上伏特加的混合調製飲料）為結尾。那些

冷壓蔬果榨汁富含抗氧化劑、維生素、礦

晨 5 點左右，當所有夜店都關門後，意猶未盡

液化了的新鮮水果和果糖在我血管裡流動，這

物質原料和酶，正正適合我們都市人們的身體

的人群都喜歡跑到那裡繼續暢飲狂歡 。好多

久違的健康感受讓我和酒友開心得咯咯笑。我

需求，並能使血液健康地流動。它能能醫治

個的週末凌晨，我都恍惚地浸泡在那些黑暗又

還點了盤 80 元的紅菜頭藜麥配上新鮮橙作伴

精神緊張和受損的細胞，而且見效快。對於

骯髒的二手煙環境裡，到處充斥著迷幻的燈光

碟的來填補肚子。

個人而言，我相信榨汁也應該要適度，正如任

式的保健方法。

和嘈雜得令人耳膜麻痹的音樂。那時會經常碰

蔬果榨汁無疑一向都是健康的趨勢，冷壓

何藥物或治療，都應該在一段時間後停止。我

到酒醉的朋友，甚至有陌生人跟你講述他們神

酒吧在很多國際城市逐漸地變得很流行。進食

每天在家裡自製的冷壓蔬果榨汁（我很愛用苦

奇又誇張的生活體驗、一些醜聞、一些華麗掩

葉菜類植物和蔬菜無疑能提供優質又便宜的蔬

瓜），就像每天一劑的奇跡藥水，三年前我在

蓋下的貧窮真實，都是一個個的香港不夜城傳

菜營養，但吸取過多果汁裡的果糖反而對身體

Homebase 夜夜笙歌時就是靠它來排毒的。不

奇歷史故事。

健康有副效果。

過過了一個階段，我就感覺不再需要繼續天天

時過境遷，如今在這瞬息萬變的城市，那

通常第一次喝了排毒蔬果汁的人都會感覺

喝了。我相信任何東西都需要適量地控制，你

個黑暗和骯髒的 Homebase 酒吧已不在，當

到一股清新的力量感。好吧，其實那是因為你

需要感受自己身體發出的信息和提示。我個人

你打開荷裡活道地下室的門，迎接你的是一個

身體吸收了過多的糖分而產生的感覺。雖然這

的意見：夏天時喝多點蔬果榨汁，而秋冬季就

手工吹制的玻璃雕塑，往內走，映入眼簾的是

相比大吃大喝一整袋牛奶巧克力更為健康點，

多喝點廣東湯吧。

一個敞寬的地下森林。這個酷感十足地方叫做 The Woods（叢林），有一個獨特專屬服務的 八人座位定制酒吧，配有創意的季節性雞尾酒 搭配四道食物的套餐（人均 788 港元並需要接 受預訂）。菜單看起來就像是時髦的俳句：開 胃菜「青草地」——搭配巨型蘆筍；主菜「地 球」——搭配法國蝸牛；甜品「果醬」——搭配 漿果；餐後酒「營火會」——搭配 s’mores 果 塔餅乾 ( 中間是一塊棉花糖和一塊巧克力，上 下被兩塊餅乾包著 ) 。

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Tips on Drinking Healthy 健康飲酒新技能 TEXT/ 文 :Meng Yuan

B

ut although everybody seems to love a glass, binge drinking and hangovers are much less charming. So let’s go through some useful drinking tips to make sure your New Year’s resolution of “staying healthy” doesn’t die prematurely.

Three Golden Rules: 1. Food and dairy can prepare your stomach: Everybody knows it, but not many can commit to eating something before a big night out. As there’s food on your stomach wall, it slows down the absorption of alcohol, hence making it harder for alcohol to affect you. Drinking some milk or yogurt does the same trick.

2. Drink a lot of water: When alcohol enters the body it acts as a diuretic and as such dehydrates you and forces the liver to find water from other sources. Doesn’t sound good, does it? So make sure you drink a lot of water before, during and after drinking alcohol. It also helps speed up the process of metabolizing the alcohol out of your body.

3. Don’t drink too fast: It only takes 5 minutes for the ethanol to enter your bloodstream when you take a drink, and after 30 to 120 minutes, the ethanol concentration in your blood peaks. Naturally, fast drinking results in fast getting drunk. Take your time with your drink so your body has a chance to digest the ethanol, which in turn prevents drunkenness.

Four “Bests”: 1. Best time: Having a glass of scotch at 10am may look cool, but don’t think Don Draper is going to live past 50. It is better to have your first drink of the day after 2pm. And the best

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time to drink is actually between 3 to 5pm.

2. Best type of alcohol: Red wine is widely regarded as the healthiest type of alcohol, partly because it’s fruit-based.

According to research, red wine contains a plant pigment known as quercetin, which is an antioxidant that also inhibits platelet aggregation. In simple English, it means that it can maintain the vas cular elasticity and smooth the blood flow, s o drinking red wine regularly may reduce the chance of heart diseases. Still, don’t overdo it—2-3 small glasses a day should be your limit.

3. Best amount of consumption: Human live r metabolism of alcohol is about 1 gram per k ilogram weight every day. The daily alcohol in take of a 60kg man should be limited under 6 0 grams. If below 60kg then should be reduc ed correspondingly to 45 grams. Different typ es of wine consumed by a 60kg man should r efer to: 60% alcohol liquor 50g, Beer 1kg, whi skey 250ml. Even though red wine is good fo r hearth, do not drink too much, 2-3 cups a d ay is better.

4. Best side dish: According to the alcohol me tabolism, the best side dish recommended is t he food rich in protein and vitamins. Such as fresh vegetable, fish, pork, beans and eggs et c. Don’t eat salted fish, smoked sausage, baco n as the side dish, since these food contain a l ot of pigment and nitrosamines which reacts with alcohol in your body, it could hurt your l iver, damage your oral and esophagus mucou s membrane, the worst is to cause cancer.

Five Hangover Cures: 1. Vegetables : Chop cabbage, white carrot or white potato, then stir with white sugar and

vinegar, served as cold dish, that can quickly eliminate the alcohol. Moreover, drink a bit celery juice can sober you up, especially can eliminate the drunk symptoms such as headaches or flushing.

2. Fruits: Choose fresh fruits like orange, bayberry, sugarcane and pear (at least one acid taste and one sweet), make the fruit juice and drink it, this can improve oily skin condition or skin problem caused by the excessive alcohol.

3. Food: The most common food is egg and tofu, the protein of raw egg whites can effectively protect the stomach, rapidly quench your thirst, clear heat and alcohol.

Tofu, containing one of the most important amino acid—cysteine, it can detoxify the acetaldehyde, so the effect is obvious and quick. In addition, serve tofu as the snacks can effectively relieve and prevent drunk.

4. Medicine: Store some citrus peel at home, dry and powder them, add 1.5 grams of salt and cook the soup; Or cook spine date and the root of kudzu vine 10-5 grams each, this is good for relieving drunk, cooling and diuretic. Meanwhile, you can spray the floral water to the warm towel, gently rub the chest and back, elbow and temples in order to relieving drunk condition.

5. Salt Water: Drinking a warm cup of salted water is also said to be helpful.

World’s Weirdest Hangover Remedies Drinking plays an important part in every country culture that is why almost every has their own special hangover remedy, and some of them are really weird.

Ireland: Ireland has a reputation in drinking. According to Irish legend, the best way to cure a hangover is to get buried up to your neck in wet river sand. The wet chilly river sand could wake you up, but there is not much medical evidence that it cures that hangover.

Turkey: Boil the soup with innards, garlic, onion, and cream is the traditional food to cure the hangover in Turkey. You can even eat it prophylactically before sleeping to prevent an imminent hangover in the morning. This is also a popular remedy in Mexico and Romania.

Japan: Japanese love sake as well as tea and umeboshi, so naturally their hangover cure involves steeping pickled ume in green tea. There may be a little science behind this, as the salt in the plum may actually help replenish your depleted electrolytes.

US: Eat raw eggs is a popular remedy in the Western U.S. , and some people would add the hot sauce, slat or pepper as the condiments. The Native American remedy is healthier, they believe that you should go for a run and work up a sweat.

四個最佳 1. 最佳時間： 早晨和上午不宜飲酒，尤其是早 晨最不宜飲酒。每天的下午 2 時以後飲酒對人 體比較安全，尤其是在下午 3~5 時最為適宜。

2. 最佳種類： 從人體的健康角度說，眾多酒類 中以果酒之一的紅葡萄酒對人的健康最為有 利。據研究發現，紅葡萄酒含有一種被稱為槲 皮酮的植物色素成分。這種色素具有抗氧和抑 制血小板凝固的雙重作用，可以保持血管的彈 性與人體血液暢通，所以經常飲用紅葡萄酒可 以減少心臟病的發病率。

3. 最佳飲量： 人體肝臟每天能代謝的酒精約為 每公斤體重 1 克。一個 60 公斤體重的人每天允 許攝入的酒精量應限制在 60 克以下。低於 60 公斤體重者應相應減少，最好掌握在 45 克左 右。換算成各種成品酒應為：60 度白酒 50 克、 啤酒 1 公斤、威士忌 250 毫升。紅葡萄酒雖有 益健康，但也不可飲用過量，以每天 2 至 3 小 杯為佳。

4. 最佳佐菜： 從酒精的代謝規律看，最佳佐菜 好酒雖好，萬不可貪杯，品嘗美酒也是一

當推高蛋白和含維生素多的食物。如新鮮蔬

件有藝術的事情。下面就與大家分享健康飲酒

菜、鮮魚、瘦肉、豆類、蛋類等。注意切忌用

的小常識：

鹹魚、熏腸、臘肉等食品作為下酒的佐菜，因 為熏臘類的食品中含有大量色素與亞硝胺，在

三大法則

人體內與酒精發生反應，不僅傷害肝臟，而且 會損害口腔與食道粘膜，甚至誘發癌症。

1. 黃金組合「主食 + 酸奶」，保護你的胃： 去喝 酒之前吃點東西，一則能夠在胃裡形成一些保 護，減少對胃壁的刺激；二則使酒精和食物混 合在一起，降低酒精濃度，延緩酒精的吸收。

可快速消渴、清熱、解醉；豆腐，含有半胱氨 酸是一種主要的氨基酸，它能解乙醛毒，食後 能使之迅速排出，因此解酒效果自然快。另 外，在飲酒時做為下酒菜可以更有效緩解和預 防醉酒。

4. 藥物解酒： 家裡常備柑橘皮，焙乾、研末， 加食鹽 1.5 克，煮湯服用；或者選擇酸棗葛根 各 10-5 克，一同煎服，具有很好的醒酒、清 涼、利尿作用。在服用湯藥的同時，可以使用 花露水，噴灑幾點在熱毛巾上，輕輕擦試醉酒 者的胸背、肘和太陽穴等處就可明顯減輕其醉 意。

5. 鹽水解酒： 找個杯子，放入一些食鹽，兌入 一些白開水，溫溫的喝下去，醒酒速度很快。

醒酒怪招 在很多國家的文化中，飲酒都是重要的一 部分，難怪乎各國人民都有著自己獨有的破宿 醉秘方，不過其中一些還真是讓人匪夷所思。 愛爾蘭 : 愛爾蘭人好喝酒是出了名的。據 當地傳說，要想擊敗宿醉，最好的方法是用濕 的河沙將全身覆蓋。冰冷的濕沙也許能使人很 清醒，但對於醒酒，好像沒什麼科學根據。 土耳其 : 土耳其人拿動物內髒加大蒜、香 蔥和奶油一起煲的湯是土耳其人的傳統醒酒食 品。據說在晚上睡覺前就喝下一碗內髒湯甚至 能預防第二天的宿醉感。在墨西哥和羅馬尼亞 也有類似的醒酒配方。

五大秘方 1 . 蔬菜解酒： 將白菜、白蘿蔔、白薯任其一 種，切碎加入白糖和適量的醋，攪拌均勻，當

2. 酒前喝水： 先喝下半升左右的水，讓泌尿系

涼菜食用，可以達到快速解酒的效果。另外，

統在開始喝酒前就開始啟動。這樣，一部分酒

適量芹菜擠汁飲服，可以醒酒，尤其可消除醉

精可以隨之直接排泄掉。

酒後的頭疼腦脹、面部潮紅等症狀。

3. 拒絕「一口悶」 ： 飲酒後五分鐘乙醇就可進入

2. 水果解酒： 選取鮮橙、楊梅、甘蔗、生梨子

血液，30-120 分鐘時血中乙醇濃度可達到頂

等新鮮水果（選擇原則是至少一種味酸，一種

峰。飲酒快則血中乙醇濃度升高得也快，很快

味甜），用榨汁機炸成果汁後服用，效果最為

就會出現醉酒狀態。若慢慢飲入，體內可有充

顯著，而且可以改善過度飲酒的人次日皮膚油

分的時間把乙醇分解掉，乙醇的產生量就少，

膩或起皮屑的症狀。

日本 : 日本人愛喝清酒，也愛喝茶吃梅 子，他們的解酒方法就是將極酸的腌梅放入綠 茶中喝下。這其中或許有一定道理，因為梅子 裡的鹽分能補充身體所需的電解質。 美國 : 在美國西部流行以吃生雞蛋的方式 來解除宿醉，一些地區會在其中加入辣醬或鹽 和胡椒來「調味」。而土著印第安人的方法更 加健康些，是跑步出汗。

不易喝醉。

3. 食物解酒： 最為常見的是使用雞蛋和豆腐， 食用生雞蛋清，其蛋白質可以有效保護腸胃，

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Yuan Renguo Explored International Collaborations with Chinese and European Entrepreneurs During the Sino-European Entrepreneur Summit, more than 400 politicians, entrepreneurs, experts and scholars gathered together, and discussed the opportunities and challenges of the capital, branding and culture. The chairman of Kweichow Moutai Co., Ltd., Yuan Renguo, attended the conference. He delivered a speech titled “Inheritance and Innovation--- the Global Age of Moutai Branding.” Yuan said, “With the economic globalization, the marketing development needs more cooperation on the strategy.” To promote and contribute for the China-EU business exchanges, Moutai hopes to cooperate with the influential companies and organizations in China and Europe, including wine enterprises. Yuan’s speech coincided with the stance of Camus Wines and Spirits Group, and was praised by experts and scholars.

The president of Camus Groups said that the charm of Moutai is to be observed up-close. He is willing to spend more time and effort to promote Moutai, to let more people to discover and love the Chinese culture essence of liquor, and to understand Chinese culture through Moutai.

The Sino-European Entrepreneur Summit is a platform for entrepreneurs from both regions to exchange resources and establish collaborations. Former French Prime Minister Jean-Pierre Raffarin made the welcome speech this year and former British Prime Minister Gordon Brown gave a speech during a meeting.

袁仁國與中歐企業共同探索國際新合作

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Yuan Renguo giving the speech 袁仁國在中歐企業家峰會上發表主題演講

貴州茅台酒股份有限公司董事長袁仁國出席會議，並發表「傳承與創新， 全球化時代茅台的品牌之路」主題演講。 袁仁國說，經濟全球化，市場的開拓需要在戰略上進行更多的合 作與配合。茅台願與具有全球影響力的歐洲運營商合作，與歐洲知名 酒業品牌企業合作，為推動中歐企業交流合作做出貢獻。茅台酒在全 球免稅品店的獨家分銷商法國卡慕集團以茅台酒為案例，再次全面詮 釋了茅台的品牌與價值。袁仁國與卡慕的發言，交相輝映，系統體現 了神秘茅台裡的中國文化，獲得了專家學者的一致肯定與贊揚。 卡慕總裁說，越是走近茅台，越能發現很多茅台的品牌魅力。他 願意花時間，花精力去宣傳茅台，讓更多的人去發現並喜愛中國白酒 裡的文化精髓，去理解茅台酒裡的中國神話。 據了解，中歐企業家峰會是一個集中外企業家平台資源共同建立 的公平、開放、務實的專業平台。每年都以大型會議的形式在國內和

在 2014 年中歐企業家峰會上，400 余名中歐政要、企業家以及專

歐洲組織傑出企業家進行多層次的交流，共同討論普遍關注的問題及

家學者齊聚一堂，重點探討資本、品牌和文化面臨的機遇、挑戰，以

全球趨勢，進而建立合作。法國前總理拉法蘭在會上致歡迎詞，英國

及科技創新、城鎮化和可持續發展等重大熱點問題。茅台集團公司及

前首相戈登布朗在分會上發表演講。（張峻瑋）

MOUTAI Magazine

Moutai Stole the Show at the Sino-European Entrepreneur Summit Banquet A grand banquet for the Sino-European Entrepreneur Summit was held at the Palais Brongniart of Paris. Moutai was the focus of each table. With the relaxing music and the pleasurable conversation, all the guests tasted and talked about Moutai. The taste of Chinese liquor and Moutai’s brand image made into people’s hearts.

Yuan Renguo also gave a 50-year-Moutai to the former British Prime Minister Gordon Brown. Brown admires Moutai and took a picture with Yuan. Recently, Moutai had set up an office at the French capital and acquired the country’s renowned Chateau Bordeaux. During the meeting, Yuan and the former French Prime Minister Jean-Pierre Raffarin had a friendly conversation and shared their vision to promote and establish a closer partnership between the two countries.

茅台還在法國波爾多購買了酒莊。會議期間，袁仁國和法國前總理拉 法蘭親切交談，雙方期待著能夠推動兩個國家之間建立更加緊密的伙 伴關系，並在更多領域進一步務實合作。（張峻瑋）

The management team witnessed Moutai“Gold Brilliant Century”product release. 參會領導共同見證茅台「百年金獎輝煌」酒發布

Moutai and Merchants Bank Cooperate To Create High-End Liquor Marketing Strategy

袁仁國贈予英國前首相戈登布朗茅台酒 Yuan giving Brown a bottle of Moutai

Recently, the release of Kweichow Moutai’s new product “Brilliant Century” and Merchants Bank’s online Moutai flagship store opening ceremony were held in Shenzhen. Moutai Group leaders Chen Min, Liu Zili, Ji Keliang and Tang Zhihong, Vice President of Merchants Bank attended the ceremony.

“Brilliant Century”, made by top winemakers, uses the Moutai state banquet liquor and blending technology, and is designed exclusively for the Merchants Bank premier customers. Liu Zili, the general manager of Moutai Group, said that the bottle of “Brilliant Century” was made by precious caramel ceramics, which is served exclusively in the important national banquet. Since this type of ceramics is superior to others, and be regarded as the best in the world, its unique and precious character has been given a mysterious folk.

The first bottle of “Brilliant Century” signed by the most legendary Chinese winemaker Ji Keliang was put on live auction. Moutai products can be purchased from Merchants Bank online flagship store on December 5, 2014, and customers of Merchants Bank can buy quality Moutai products since then.

茅台與招行攜手創高檔白酒營銷新模式 近日，貴州茅台酒「百年輝煌」新品發布會暨招商銀行網上商城 茅台旗艦店開業慶典在深圳隆重舉行。茅台集團領導陳敏、劉自力、 季克良，及招商銀行總行唐志宏副行長出席發布會。

茅台亮相中歐企業家峰會晚宴

此次新推出的「百年輝煌」酒，經由大師操刀，以茅台原有的國 宴酒為酒體品質標准，采用小批量勾兌技術制作而成，由茅台專為招

在巴黎的布隆尼亞爾宮，盛大的中歐企業家峰會晚宴熱烈舉行，

商銀行推薦的尊享客戶而限量定制開發，專享專供。茅台集團總經理、

茅台酒成為了每桌餐飲的焦點。輕松愉悅的音樂，興趣相投的交談，

黨委副書記劉自力介紹，「百年輝煌」酒選用了珍貴的醬色陶瓷酒瓶，

中外友人頻頻舉杯，品茅台，話茅台，茅台這個中國白酒品牌和茅台

作為國家重要宴會專用的陶瓷，因著「此陶國色勝天香，曾醉國宴甲

這一中國白酒的味道，一同從視野走進了更多人的心裡。

天下」的獨有和珍貴，一直以來被民間賦予了神秘色彩。

袁仁國贈予英國前首相戈登布朗一瓶 50 年的陳年茅台酒。布朗贊 賞茅台，並和袁仁國合影留念。他說，他到過很多次中國，中國有著

發布會首發「百年輝煌」中的第一瓶酒請中國極富傳奇的釀酒大 師季克良先生簽名，經現場拍賣，最終被到場嘉賓競得收藏。

世界公認的經濟成就，希望通過進一步的溝通和聯系加強中歐企業間 的聯系，共同為世界發展做出貢獻。 巴黎作為法國的首都，在這裡，茅台還專門設立了辦事處，去年，

茅台於 2014 年 12 月 5 日正式入駐招商銀行網上商城並開設旗艦 （羅 店，招商銀行持卡客戶即日起能直接購買品質純正的茅台特供產品。 晶）

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Chui, Ho, Yuan and Liu attended the celebration 崔世安、何厚鏵、袁仁國、劉自力等出席慶祝此次活動

would commit to its motto of “Inheriting the Chinese Culture, Promoting the National Brand”. The Moutai Auction during the ceremony elevated the event to a new height. Twenty bottles of the 50-Year Millesimes special edition from the Association’s collection was successfully sold for 1.2 million MOP. President of the Association also consigned two bottles, which were sold for 1.38 million MOP combined. All the auction proceeds will go to public welfare and education in Mainland China.

澳門茅台文化協會成立 近日，慶祝澳門回歸祖國十五年暨澳門茅台文化協會成立典禮在 Yuan (second from the left) and Liu (fourth from the left) enjoyed Moutai liquor with guests of the event 袁仁國（左起二）、劉自力（左起四）在慶典現場與嘉賓們品評茅台酒

澳門旅游塔會展中心隆重舉行。澳門特別行政區行政長官崔世安，全 國政協副主席何厚鏵，茅台集團公司領導袁仁國、劉自力等出席典禮。 與會嘉賓一起品評茅台酒，探討國酒文化。

Launch of Macau Association of Moutai Culture To celebrate the 15th anniversary of handover of Macau and the establishment of the Macau Association of Moutai Culture, the SAR Chief Executive Chui Sai-on, CPPCC Vice Chairman Edmund Ho Hauwah, Moutai Group leaders Yuan Renguo and Liu Zili attended the ceremony held on Macau Tower Convention and Entertainment Centre.

They tasted the Moutai liquor and explored the Chinese liquor culture with the guests.

Yuan delivered a speech, saying that he expected the Association

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袁仁國在致辭中說，希望茅台澳門文化協會要堅持「傳承中華文 化，光大民族品牌」的宗旨，彙集澳門各方雅士，積極開展文化活動， 推動茅台文化在澳門的傳播與發展，在傳承中華文化、光大民族品牌， 弘揚國酒精粹、彰顯品牌魅力、提高茅台形像、廣交天下朋友等方面 取得好成績，不斷將茅台文化發揚光大。 典禮上的茅台酒拍賣活動將現場的熱烈氣氛推向高潮。澳門茅台 文化協會珍藏版的 20 瓶 50 年陳年茅台酒成功拍賣了 120 萬元澳幣。澳 門茅台文化協會會長廖澤雲也將個人的兩瓶茅台酒拿到現場拍賣，並 拍得 138 萬元澳幣。本次拍賣所得款項將全部用於內地公益事業和教 育事業。 （張峻瑋）

partner of the Institute, Moutai Group has been committed to introducing Chinese culture to the global audiences.

趙書躍出席第九屆全球孔子學院大會 近日，第九屆全球孔子學院大會在廈門舉行，為 80 名孔子學院先 進單位和個人進行頒獎。中共中央政治局委員、國務院副總理、孔子 學院總部理事會主席劉延東出席開幕式並作主旨演講。茅台集團公司 黨委副書記、紀委書記趙書躍及來自 120 多個國家和地區的大學校長、 孔子學院代表共 2000 余人出席大會。 劉延東在開幕式上說，茅台集團作為孔子學院長期戰略合作伙伴， 一直致力於向全世界人民傳播中國傳統文化。國酒文化是中國酒文化 歷史上的重要組成部分，孔子學院也將醇香的茅台酒和厚重的國酒文 化帶到了全世界人民的面前。 （張靚君）

Moutai Overseas Dealers Attended Guangzhou Forum

Xi Jinping gave the opening speech while Yuan Renguo attended the Summit as an industry delegate 習近平出席開幕式並發表了主旨演講，袁仁國作為工商界企業代表參加了會議

Yuan Renguo Attended the APEC CEO Summit On November 8-10, the APEC CEO Summit was held at the China National Convention Center at Beijing. The President of China, Xi Jinping attended the opening ceremony and gave a welcome speech.

Chairman of Moutai, Yuan Renguo was at the conference as an industry delegate. During the Summit, APEC leaders had extensive discussions with industry delegates on such topics as economic innovation and regional communications.

袁仁國出席 APEC 工商領導人峰會 2014 年 APEC 工商領導人峰會於 11 月 8 日至 10 日在北京國家會 議中心舉行，國家主席習近平出席開幕式並發表了主旨演講。茅台集 團公司及貴州茅台酒股份有限公司董事長袁仁國作為工商界企業代表 參加了會議。峰會期間，多位亞太經合組織成員領導人與工商界人士 就推動區域經濟一體化、促進經濟創新發展、加強區域互聯互通等議

The Overseas Dealers Forum was held in November, 2014, in Guangzhou, China. Seventy-five dealers from 32 countries including the US, France and Italy sat together to discuss Moutai’s overseas development. An Huailun, GM of the Moutai Import-Export Company, gave a report on the 2014 overseas sales. The report revealed that up to September 30, 2014, the total export number of Moutai had increased by 14.92% comparing to the year before, showing steady growth.

茅台海外經銷商齊聚廣州，共商市場發展大計 近日，2014 年國酒茅台海外經銷商座談會在中國廣東省廣州市白 雲國際會議中心召開，來自美國、法國、意大利等 32 個國家和地區的 75 家經銷商代表齊聚一堂，共商茅台海外市場發展大計。茅台酒進出 口有限責任公司總經理安懷倫作 2014 年工作報告。報告指出，截至今 年 9 月 30 日，公司總計出口茅台酒比去年同期增加 14.92%，海外市場 銷量穩步增長。 袁仁國在講話中指出，茅台將在深耕中國市場的前提下，堅持開 拓國際市場，使海外市場銷售比例逐漸增加。未來五年內，海外市場 力爭達到 5%-10% 的年均復合增長率；消費群體力爭從華人市場轉向 以華人市場為主、主流市場為輔的群體結構；力爭使茅台酒品牌知名 度排名每年有所提升，不斷增強品牌化建設能力和國際化推進能力， 實現產品國際化、品牌國際化和市場發展國際化。 （張映芳）

題進行了廣泛對話。 （張映芳）

Zhao Shuyue Attended the 9th International Confucius Institutes Conference The 9th International Confucius Institute Conference was held in Xiamen, China, honoring 80 exceptional organizations and individuals of the Institute. Zhao Shuyue, Deputy Party Chief of Moutai Group, was present at the event with over 2,000 attendees from over 120 countries and regions. Liu Yandong, Vice Premier of the State Council, gave an opening speech, in which he said that as a long-term strategic

2014 Moutai Overseas Dealers Forum 2014 年國酒茅台海外經銷商座談會現場

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Moutai Provided Alcohol Sponsorship at the Chinese-French Excellent Enterprises Awards Ceremony On November 25, 2014, the 3rd edition of the Chinese-French Excellent Enterprises Awards was held at Paris, France, with over 400 guests attending the ceremony including Deng Li, the interim director of the Chinese Embassy in France.

Co-organized by the Chamber of Commerce and Industry of the Greater Paris Region, the Association of Chinese Enterprises in France, as well as OC&C Strategy Consultants, the awards honor exceptional Chinese and French enterprises that contribute to the trades between the two countries.

Sponsoring the alcohol for the ceremony, Moutai presented an array of Feitian Moutai from various years. Staff of Moutai France served the liquor for guests while explaining to them the differences between each variety.

茅台供酒「中法優秀企業獎」頒獎典禮 2014 年 11 月 25 日，第三屆「中法優秀企業獎」頒獎典禮在巴黎大 區工商會總部舉行。駐法使館臨時代辦鄧勵、巴黎大區工商會主席蓋 伊、中法建交 50 周年慶典活動法方總協調人馬克 畢棟、法國中資企 業協會會長潘諾及中法工商界人士共約 400 人出席上述頒獎典禮。 「中法優秀企業獎」由巴黎大區工商會、法國中資企業協會、 OC&C 戰略咨詢公司等共同主辦，旨在表彰在中法雙邊經貿合作中表 現突出的兩國企業，鼓勵雙方工商界進一步加強交流與合作，迄今該 活動已舉辦三屆。 作為會後的白酒贊助商，茅台為各位來賓精心准備了不同年份的 茅台飛天酒，與此同時，茅台法國總部的員工為來賓們一一斟酒，介 紹不同年份茅台酒口感上以及色澤質感上的細微變化，讓來賓們親自 感受茅台之美。 （ 嘉美法國 ）

Moutai Included in the 2014 Best Chinese Brands List, Topping the Chinese Liquor Category Interbrand revealed the list of Best Chinese Brand of 2014. Four Chinese liquor brands were included in the Top 50 list, while Moutai led the race with a total brand value worth of RMB 32.11 billion. The combined brand value of the Top 50 brands saw a 22% increase from 2013, making it the record high. The brand value of Moutai increased by 8%, or RMB 2.39 billion, compared to the year before, and is three times the value of the runner-up in the liquor category.

Since the 2013 “Three Public Spendings” ban, alcohol sales have seen a nationwide dip. The strong performance of Moutai, therefore, is especially impressive, and is evidence of its quality and influence.

茅台入選 2014 最佳中國品牌價值榜，穩居白酒 首位

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今年，榜單上 50 大品牌總價值與去年相比增長 22%，創造了「最 佳中國品牌價值排行榜」發布以來的最大增幅。除了意料之中的互聯網 品牌的崛起，以茅台為首的白酒品牌的逆勢增長也值得關注。茅台品 牌價值相比去年增長 8%，增長 23.89 億元，比排名第二位的白酒品牌 高出近 3 倍，遙遙領先於其它品牌。 自去年有關「三公消費」禁令的發布，酒企業績普遍下滑。這次中 國品牌價值排行榜的發布，茅台價值的強勢增長，讓人不得不關注到， 對於國酒茅台這種擁有兩千年深厚歷史與文化底蘊的民族品牌，其品 牌影響力更多地體現在對文化的傳承和大品牌應有的擔當上。 （中國糖 酒網）

Moutai Excels 2014 China Brand Value Evaluation On December 12, 2014, China Central Television (CCTV) released the 2014 China Brand Value Evaluation information. Moutai scored 983.00 of the brand strength, valuing at RMB 86.267 billion on the Geographical Icon List. The result increased by RMB 3.859 billion from the 82.408 billion in 2012, 2.8 times of the second-ranking product’s value.

Close to 300 people, including leaders from national ministries and corporations as well as media representatives attended the conference. Ji Keliang, Honorary Chairman and Chief Technical Adviser of Moutai group, was there to witness this proud moment.

The evaluation ranges from manufacture and agriculture to the service industry; the types of brands involved include corporates, products, regional brands and self-innovation brands. The release was produced by CCTV, China Council of Brand Development, Council of the Promotion of International Trade, China Appraisal Society and China National Standardization Administration Institute.

茅台領跑 2014 中國品牌價值評價產品品牌榜 12 月 12 日，2014 中國品牌價值評價信息在中央電視台向全球獨 家發布。茅台酒入選今年試發布的地理標志品牌榜單，並以品牌強度 983.00，品牌價值 862.67 億元領跑產品品牌榜。該評價結果較 2012 年的 824.08 億元增長了 38.59 億元，比排名第二的產品品牌價值高出 2.8 倍。 來自國家各部委有關領導、全國知名品牌企業負責人以及部分中 央級媒體代表等近 300 人參加發布會。茅台集團公司名譽董事長、技 術總顧問季克良，總法律顧問劉漢林親臨現場見證茅台榮耀時刻。 2014 年 CCTV 中國品牌價值評價範圍擴展到制造業和農業、服務 業；品牌評價種類也從去年單純企業品牌擴展到產品品牌、企業品牌、 區域品牌（地理標志品牌）和自主創新品牌。此次發布是由中央電視

Interbrand（國際品牌集團）揭曉了 2014 最佳中國品牌價值排

台、中國品牌建設促進會、中國國際貿易促進委員會、中國資產評估

行榜。共有 4 個白酒品牌入選 50 強榜單，茅台穩居白酒首位，品牌

協會、中國標准化研究院等單位共同作為發布主體，聯合發布評價信

價值 321.1 億元。

息。 （王媛）

MOUTAI Magazine

習酒 · 1988 典藏珍品 Xijiu – The Classic 1988 Edition

純糧釀造 天然至醇 Pure Grain, All Natural

Situated by the midstream Chishui River in Guizhou, a scenic area in southern China void of industrial pollution, the Kweichow Moutai Distillery (Group) Xijiu Co., Ltd. produces quality Chinese liquor the traditional way. Inheriting the brewing techniques that have been passed down in the Moutai Valley for over 2,000 years, Xijiu takes advantage of its unique geographical features while using only the finest sorghum and wheat for distillation. The result is an exceptional Chinese liquor brimming with a mellow, long-lasting "Jiang" fragrance that stays in the glass and on your palate.

產自未受工業污染的中國貴州赤水河中游的茅台集團習酒公司，秉承茅台河谷兩千多年的釀酒傳統，利用當地得天獨厚的地理、氣候環境和釀酒微生物環境，選用優 質高粱、小麥為原料精心釀造，具有醬香突出、幽雅細膩、回味悠長、香而不豔、空杯留香不息、飲後舒暢的獨特風格。

贵州茅台酒厂 （ 集团 ） 习酒有限责任公司

习酒旗艦店 （ 香港 ） 有限公司

ＫＷＥＩＣＨＯＷ ＭＯＵＴＡＩ ＤＩＳＴＩＬＬＥＲＹ （ＧＲＯＵＰ） ＸＩＪＩＵ ＣＯ．， ＬＴＤ．

ＸＩＪＩＵ ＦＬＡＧＳＨＩＰ ＳＴＯＲＥ （ＨＫ） ＬＩＭＩＴＥＤ

ＴＥＬ： ２５０８ １９８８