Moutai magazine - International Edition Issue 9 Autumn 2015

09 AUTUMN 2015

100th Anniversary of Gold Award 金獎百年紀念 Interview with Tsai Ming-liang, Golden Lion Awards Winner of the Venice Film Festival 專訪威尼斯影展金獅獎得主蔡明亮 If Our Language is Whisky 如果我們的語言是威士忌 China Pavilion in Milan Expo 米蘭世博會中國館 China's Traditional Environmental Science 中國的傳統環境學 Yee Tung Heen: Collective Force in a Cantonese Kitchen 怡東軒：中餐廳的集體創作

S P E C I A L I S S U E

www.moutaichina.com

Marvelous Grandeur 氣韻之恢宏

Superb Craftsmanship

奪天工之長

www.moutaichina.com

A typical representative of the Chinese yeast liquor, Moutai cultivates yeast from wheat using ancient techniques and according to the change of seasons, producing a one-of-a-kind distilled liquor that emits a divine aroma.

貴州茅台酒是東方曲酒代表，以小麥爲曲，順應季節生産，用古老的發酵方法帶來豐滿醇厚的香氣，在世界蒸餾酒中獨一無二。

CHINA KWEICHOW MOUTAI DISTILLERY (GROUP) CO., LTD.

CONTRIBUTORS

Maotai, Renhuai City, Guizhou Province, China 564501

KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD.

Maotai, Renhuai City, Guizhou Province, China 564501 Production & Advertising Sales Agent: ER HONGKONG HOLDING LIMITED Room 2103, 21/F, Sino Plaza, No.255-257 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 3580 2598 Fax: (852) 3580 2588 Consultant : Yuan Renguo, Li Baofang, Zhao Shuyue

Publisher | Francis Wong

Chief Executive Officer | Christine Yin

Yu Yat Yiu A talented well-known music producer.

Music creations included pop music, musicals, dance music, movie and TV soundtracks. In 1997, Yu, Anthony Wong, and a team of musicians and artists established an independent music production company "People Mountain People Sea".

Executive Chief Editor | Jocelyn Liao Project Manager | Grace Liu Art Director | Johnny Woo

Senior Project Editor | Laura Su

Photographer | Han Xingxi, Dai Huashan Translator | Billy Yung, Grace Liu Project PR | Meng Yuan

Marketing Executive | Nikita Wan, Denise Chan Advertising Enquiry | Tel: (852) 3580 2598 Email | er-hk@everreliable.net

RIGHTS

Johannes Pong Jet-setting travel and food writer Johannes Pong covers the Hong Kong scene. He's also a regular TV personality, and took Travel Channel’s Andrew Zimmern out for snake wine on an episode of Bizarre Foods.

Moutai Magazine (International Edition) is published quarterly by ER HONGKONG HOLDING LIMITED under a license by KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD. Reprints, copy or use of any content in this magazine whether in whole or in part, shall only be allowed with the explicit written permission of KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD.

No responsibility can be taken for unsolicited texts and photographs.

The views and opinions expressed or implied in the articles do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher, editors or the license holder.

All contents in this magazine have been complied with the best of our knowledge,

but no warranty or representation is given as to its accuracy, completeness, relevance, timeliness or otherwise.

Moutai Magazine (international edition) appears quarterly with

editions published under cooperation or license in two languages.

Sponsor: Top Gainer Industrial Limited

Special Thanks :

Dong Tiezhu Dong Tiezhu is a holder of Ph.D in Chinese culture at the University of California, Berkeley. Familiar with both Chinese and Western culture, Dong has been teaching Chinese culture at Wofford College (USA) and United International College (Zhuhai).

“Only when we make the best of national features can we establish ourselves in the world.”

—— Lu Xun In this issue of MOUTAI MAGAZINE, we specially focus on the 100th anniversary of Moutai's winning the Panama Gold Award.

Review grand occasions of Moutai's celebrations in China and abroad, Learn China's traditional environmental science from Chinese traditional culture and literati, Talk with Tsai Ming-liang about making films for the museum, Explore the rise of some new whisky brands, Take a look at China Pavilion in Milano Expo 2015, and See collective force in a Cantonese kitchen and a resort in a forest.

Let's follow the glorious history of Moutai's Gold Award, Getting to know how a Chinese national brand goes global.

「只有民族的，才是世界的。」 —— 魯 迅 本期《MOUTAI MAGAZINE》是茅台金獎百年紀念特刊。 我們回顧茅台酒獲巴拿馬萬國博覽會金獎一百周年國內外慶典的盛況， 和蔡明亮談談他為美術館拍電影的概念； 探究新興威士忌品牌崛起的緣由； 走進米蘭世博會中國館； 從古代文化和文人墨客中看看中國傳統的環境學說； 一覽高檔中餐廳的集體創作及叢林中的酒店 ; 在金獎百年的榮光之下， 了解中國民族品牌如何走向國際。

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Autumn Memories

金 秋的回憶

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The Aroma of a Century The Revival of a Nation 香飄世界百年，相伴民族復興

This issue’s cover is inspired by the world-wide celebrations for 100th Anniversary of Moutai’s Winning the Panama Gold Award.

Let's extend a salute to the magnificent history and look forward to a brilliant future. 本期封面靈感來源於 2015 年貴州茅台酒金獎百年海內外紀念慶典。 讓我們帶著欣喜與敬意回看這百年的歷史，憧憬更美好的未來。

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See a Movie in the Museum 在美術館裡看電影 專訪威尼斯影展金獅獎、柏林影展銀熊獎

Moutai and China's Century

導演蔡明亮

許子東 : 茅台與中國的百年

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If Our Language is Whisky Blame It on the Sumba

如果我們的語言是威士忌

CONTENT 目 錄 Gold Prize Since 1915 金獎百年 10 Miracle and Pride of National Brands 民族品牌的奇跡和驕傲

12 China's Traditional Environmental Science 中国的傳統環境學 20 Unduplicated Moutai: Harmony Between "Man" and "Nature" 茅台酒的不可複製：「天」、「人」合一

46 Moutai and China's Century Professor Xu Zidong's View of Moutai 茅台與中國的百年 許子東教授談茅台

50 If Our Language is Whisky 如果我們的語言是威士忌 60 LAND OF HOPE FOOD FOR LIFE The China Pavilion in the Milan Expo 2015 希望的田野 生命的源泉 2015 米蘭世博會中國館 66 Collective Force in a Cantonese Kitchen A Visit to Yee Tung Heen 集體創作 專訪香港怡東軒

26 See a Movie in the Museum - Interview with Tsai Ming-liang, Winner of the Venice Film Festival Golden Lion Award and the Berlin Film Festival Silver Bear for Best Director 在美術館裡看電影——專訪威尼斯影展金獅獎、 柏林影展銀熊獎導演蔡明亮 34

The Aroma of a Century The Revival of a Nation Overseas Celebrations for 100th Anniversary of Moutai’s Winning the Panama Gold Award 香飄世界百年，相伴民族復興 貴州茅台酒榮獲巴拿馬萬國博覽會金獎 100 周年 全球慶典

72 Blame It on the Sumba 76 Nature Deserves Our Awe 自然不是用來保護的

78 Moutai on the World Map 茅台在全球

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Gold Prize Since 1915 金獎百年

Miracle and Pride of National Brands 民族品牌的奇跡和驕傲 EDITING / 編輯：Laura

Today, many people wonder what secrets are behind China's economic development miracle. Let's explore the growth of Moutai for the answer.

"Moutai Expressway" is a high-speed traffic network, the first expressway built with self-raised funds and named after an enterprise in the history of Guizhou, and the most important section of the expressway from Zunyi to Chishui. You may not know. In 1952, without highway to Moutai Town, Moutai liquor was carried out all by porters, and at least seven days were needed for a trip from Moutai Town to Guiyang (provincial capital of Guizhou Province). Over the past 60 years, great changes have taken place not only in Moutai Town, but also in China. 當世人不停追問中國奇跡的核心秘密究竟是什麼時，我們不妨把眼光聚焦於黔西北的這片邊陲熱土。 「茅台高速」是貴州歷史上第一條省內自籌資金修建並以企業命名的高速交通網絡，也是遵義至赤水高速公路最 重要的一段。可曾想過，1952 年的茅台鎮不通公路，全靠背夫的脊梁將酒外運，走一趟貴陽，至少需要 7 天。 六十多年過去，變化的不僅是一座酒廠，更是一個國家。

Editor's note: 2015 is Moutai's 100th anniversary of winning the gold award at the Panama Pacific International Exposition. Therefore, our magazine specially sets up the column of "Gold Prize Since 1915" to detail Moutai's century-old journey. The following is the third article of this column. 編者按： 2015 年是茅台榮獲巴拿馬萬國博 覽會金獎 100 周年，本刊特設「百年金獎」 欄目，將百年前的榮耀、百年間的磨礪、百 年後的輝煌的個中故事傳說一一道來。本文 是「百年金獎」欄目系列三。

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L

ike most industries in New China, Moutai started its industrialization from scratch.

Moutai distillery was only a "small liquor-making workshop" in 1952, when it was founded through combining three private liquor workshops of "Chengyi", "Ronghe", and "Hengxing". Exceptionally, with mere hundreds of employees, and located in the deep valley of the Chishui River, this little enterprise attracted much attention from China's top leaders.

At the Chengdu Conference held in 1958, Chairman Mao Zedong talked with Zhou Lin, the Party Secretary of Guizhou Province, proposing a grand plan to produce 10,000 tons of Moutai annually.

Since then, Chairman Mao's great expectation has always encouraged Moutai people to realize this target.

In 1978, Moutai's output hit 1,000 tons for the first time, ceasing 16 years' continual loss suffered by the distillery.

In 2003, Moutai's output broke through

10,000 tons, and hit a historical record high.

Since then, this record has been renewed continuously.

To break through the output of 10,000 tons, Moutai people used as long as 52 years; to raise from 10,000 tons to 20,000 tons, they used five years; to raise from 20,000 tons to 30,000 tons, they used only three years. Through efforts for generations, Moutai people have realized their dream of development.

On the top of the hill east to the Gate of Moutai stands a huge Moutai bottle, which is considered the "World's No. 1 Liquor Bottle".

It looks, among the hills, simple, straightforward but grand, and reminds us of Moutai's firm determination towards market-oriented economy for the first time 10 years ago.

Some 10 years ago, following the 1997 Asian financial crisis and Shanxi fake liquor case, the state-owned Moutai Group began to take actions to shake off ideological and structural shackles of planned economy. In that year, Yuan Renguo was just promoted

Gold Prize Since 1915 金獎百年

to general manager; he managed to organize the first marketing team in Moutai's history, and began to expose Moutai to market. He proposed the marketing concept of "cultural liquor", taking initiatives to turn challenges into opportunities. Under his leadership, Moutai has successfully realized frog-leaping development for more than a decade.

In 1999, Kweichow Moutai Co., Ltd. was founded. In 2001, "Kweichow Moutai" was listed in the Shanghai Stock Exchange. Since then, Moutai has become a significant player in China's capital market.

Over the past 10 years, Moutai Group has developed over 200 varieties of products, including the Millesimes liquor, Han Jiang liquor, Ren (Benevolence) liquor, Moutai Prince liquor, and Moutai Ying Bin liquor, ending the policy of single product line and forming a broad line of "Moutai Family" products. As Jiang fragrance liquor is widely accepted, Moutai starts to broaden its lines of drinks and has developed Moutai beer and Moutai wine.

With marketing network continually improved, Moutai now has over 2,000 distributors and franchised stores, and has sales agencies in tens of countries and regions in the world, creating a unique "Moutai Model" with Chinese characteristics.

All these indicate that Moutai Group, as a traditional Chinese industrialized enterprise, has steadily grown into a modern and global corporation. After over 30 years' reform and opening up, China has seen profound changes in its economy and society. Moutai's miraculous leap during this period is undoubtedly a witness to the "Chinese Model".

Then, what is Moutai's secret to consecutively achieve leap-forward development?

Mr. Yuan Renguo, Chairman of Moutai Group answers: Moutai Group always adheres to the strategy of "comprehensive development via system reform, quality control, management improvement, environmental protection, technical R&D, talent training, corporation culture construction, safety management, and harmonious enterprise environment", emphasizes the growth quality, and adheres to green growth.

Today, Moutai Group is striving to be a world-class conglomerate.

Big brand shoulders more responsibility.

Over the years, with a strong sense of responsibility and mission, Moutai Group has repaid the society, actively fulfilled its social responsibility, and fully supported public welfare undertakings. Since the "11th Five-Year Plan", Moutai has invested 1.3 billion RMB in public welfare undertakings, becoming a leader in promoting public welfare undertakings.

For the world, "Moutai China" is a unique commodity that represents Chinese culture.

For Chinese people, "Moutai China" is a respectable and excellent corporation.

For China, "Moutai China" is a miracle and pride of national brands.

前茅台人首次步入市場經濟的果敢風姿。 十多年前，始於 1997 年的亞洲金融危機 及山西「假酒案」，將這家國字號企業拉出了 計劃經濟的象牙塔。那年，剛剛就任總經理的 袁仁國，組織了茅台歷史上第一支營銷隊伍， 毅然參與市場博弈，同時提出「文化酒」營銷 概念，化危為機，成功開啟了 10 多年的跨越 之路。 1999 年， 貴州茅台酒股份有限公司成立， 2001 年，「貴州茅台」正式上市。「茅台」， 從此站立在中國經濟脈搏最強勁的資本市場。 十多年來， 國酒茅台打破單一產品的格 局，開發了陳年茅台酒、漢醬酒、仁酒、茅台 王子酒和迎賓酒等兩百多個規格品種，形成一 支陣容強大的「茅家軍」，讓醬香型酒逐步得 到市場的青睞，並且向飲料酒領域進軍，開發 了茅台啤酒和乾紅葡萄酒，開始實施品牌擴張 戰略。國酒茅台經銷商網絡日趨完善，國酒茅

就像新中國的大部分工業一樣，茅台的工

台經銷商、專賣店已達兩千餘家，並在海外數

業化之路， 幾乎是從一張白紙開始的。 1952

十個國家和地區建立了營銷機構，開拓了中國

年，由「成義」、「榮和」、「恒興」三家私

酒業獨具特色的「茅台模式」。所有這些，無

人燒房合組成立的茅台酒廠，只能算是個「釀

不見證著這家中國傳統的民族工業企業走向現

酒作坊」。然而，與眾不同的是，這家人數不

代化、走向世界的穩健步伐。改革開放三十餘

過數百的小企業，儘管身處深山河谷之中，但

年 , 是新中國建國以來 , 經濟、社會變革最為

她的命運卻一直被中南海所牽掛。

深刻的時期。國酒茅台在此期間奇跡般的跨 ,

1958 年成都會議期間，毛澤東主席在與

無疑為印證中國模式提供了有力的佐證。

貴州省委第一書記周林談話時，提出了一個宏

茅台持續跨越發展的秘訣是什麼？

大的目標，把茅台酒的年產量搞到 1 萬噸。

茅台集團公司董事長袁仁國的回答是：

從此，一代偉大領袖的殷切希望成為縈繞

始終堅持「發展壯企、改革促企、品質立

在茅台人心底的一個情結，成為不斷激勵茅台

企、管理固企、環境護企、科技興企、人才強

人為之奮鬥的目標。

企、文化揚企、安全穩企、和諧旺企」，強調

1978 年，茅台酒產量首次突破千噸關， 一舉甩掉連續 16 年虧損的帽子。 2003 年，茅台酒產量突破萬噸大關，實 現了歷史性的飛躍。

增長的品質、堅持綠色的增長。 今天，茅台集團正向一個具有世界影響的 偉大企業不斷靠攏。 大品牌有大擔當。長期以來，茅台集團

從此，這個記錄不斷被刷新。

以強烈的責任感和使命感，發展不忘回報社

年產量突破一萬噸，茅台人用了整整 52

會，積極履行社會責任，傾力支持公益事業。

年時間；從一萬噸到兩萬噸，茅台人用了 5 年

「十一五」以來，茅台累計投入公益事業 13

時間，從兩萬噸到三萬噸，茅台人只用了 3 年

億元以上，成為全國公益事業的領跑者。對於

時間。經過一代代國酒人的不懈努力，國酒人

世界而言，「MOUTAI CHINA」是一個代表中

的夢想終於變成了現實！

國文化的特殊商品。對於中國人而言，「國酒

在國酒門東側的山頭上聳立著一個巨大的 茅台瓶，譽為「天下第一瓶」。群山之間的她， 簡單、率直而又氣勢逼人，讓人不禁想起十年

茅台」是一家令人尊敬的優秀企業。 對於中國而言，「國酒茅台」是民族品牌 的奇跡和驕傲。

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China's

Traditional Environmental Science 中國的傳統環境學 TEXT / 文：Jocelyn Liao TRANSLATION / 譯：Billy Yung

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In the early 20th century, before "Nature" was conventionally translated into " 自然 ", there was no Chinese word exactly corresponding to the English word "Nature". However, China did have many ideas about environment and how to live with it. In English, "Nature" refers to the essence of things. It is an inner power that guides the world or human being, and is the material world itself. Since the Enlightenment, "Nature" had been obviously opposite to "Culture" in the West. However, due to cultural differences, "Nature" is not necessarily opposite to "Culture". In Chinese context, it has such meanings as "heaven and earth", "mountain and water", "all things" and "essence". 在二十世紀初，「自然」這一詞語成為約定俗成的中文翻譯之前，漢語中並沒有和「Nature」完全吻合 的詞，但中國卻不乏有關環境及如何與之共處的理念。英語中的「Nature」指稱的是事物本質，是指導 世界或人類內在的力量，是物質世界本身。自啟蒙運動以來，「Nature」（自然）和「Culture」（文化） 的對立在西方非常重要。不過，由於文化的不同，「自然」的中文並不凸顯這一對立， 它在中國的語境下包括有「天」、「天地」、「山水」、「萬物」和「本性」等意義。

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Harmony and Unity of Favorable Climatic, Geographical and Human Conditions The Chinese emphasize the harmony and unity of favorable climatic, geographical, and human conditions. This concept can be traced back to ancient China. The "Book of Changes" mentioned: "A great man should act in accordance with the law of nature (including heaven, earth, sun, moon, seasons, and mysterious forces)." Confucianism advocates "the harmony between man and nature" while Taoism recommends "naturalness and wuwei (action through non-action)" as well as "heaven is the nature". Both the theory that "A noble man's virtues are consistent with those of heaven and earth" in Confucianism's "Mencius" and the theory that "Heaven, Earth, and I were produced together, and all things and I are one" in Taoism's "Zhuangzi", closely

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link man with all things in the nature and regard man and nature as an inseparable unity, thus forming a subjective force.

Concepts about environment in China's traditional culture are complicated and changeable. Still, there are two main theories. One is the "concept of interaction between man and nature" agreed by both Confucianism and Taoism. Essentially, it is a humanism believing that man can utilize all things in the nature but the ultimate purpose of such utilization is to establish complementary relationship between man and the universe. The other is the "concept of mercy to all things" agreed by Buddhism.

According to Buddhist doctrine, man essentially is not superior to any other things.

The rebirth concepts of previous life and reincarnation link various life forms together.

In Zhuangzi's "A Cook Dismembering a Cow", slaughtering a cow was described as

a pleasant thing. However, after Buddhism was introduced to China, Chinese readers' feeling for this article would be different from the past. Besides these two main theories, the concepts of "qi" (air or energy) and "feng shui" (wind-water) also have a profound impact on Chinese's understanding of nature and are still used by the public.

Started from the Zhou Dynasty According to a chapter in "Shijing" (Classic of Poetry), in ancient times, Gong Liu, an ancestor of King Wen of Zhou, led the Zhou people to migrate. After observing the mountains, rivers, yin and yang directions, water, and land of the destination called "Bin", he concluded that the place was suitable for living. Since then, the Zhou people began their farming life there. This indicated that at least since the Zhou Dynasty (over 1,000

years BC), people had begun to observe the environment based on some theories and used these observations as the basis for judging the quality of living environment.

This geography inspecting method is called "land divination" or "feng shui". It was founded by the legendary "Fairy of Ninth Heaven". The relatively complete system of China's traditional environmental science originated from the Warring States period and was a Chinese mysterious technique with a long history. In ancient times, "feng shui" prevailed in the Chinese cultural circle and was a very important factor in daily life. Many related documents were preserved and used to select a site for a town or village, or construct a palace. Later, this technique was used to select a grave site.

The "Biographies of Chulizi and Gan Mao" in the "Records of the Grand Historian" recorded Chulizi's story of researching

astronomy and geography to predict the future. As a brother of King Huiwen, Chulizi was a famous military strategist and statesman of the Qin State in the Warring States period. In his later years, he personally chose a site for his grave and predicted that "100 years later, there will be an imperial palace beside my grave". As was predicted, 100 years after his death, Liu Bang established the Han Dynasty and built his palace near Chulizi's grave.

Thus, Chulizi was later called the authentic originator of land divination technique.

The theory of on-site geography inspection was formed in the Qin and Han dynasties and had connections with fate presumption, fortune divination, and physiognomy of the Five Arts. Its basic structure originated from the trigram figures of the "Book of Changes" and its main factions included San Yuan Method,

San He Method (environmental analysis using a compass), Ba Zhai (Eight Mansions), and Xuan Kong Method (time and space).

After the Tang and Song Dynasties, Tai Chi diagrams of different schools appeared while feng shui had been inextricably linked with arts of divination and folk beliefs, with main theories based on the traditional yin and yang theory, "Book of Changes", "Hetu" (Yellow River Chart), and "Luoshu" (Inscription of the River Luo). These schools integrated the "Book of Changes" (China's earliest classic full of philosophies) with Tao (advocating the unity of form and spirit), Buddhism (believing karma and reincarnation), witch (advocating gods' influence on people's fates), and astrology (advocating stars' influence on people).

Elements of Land Divination Land divination regards environment

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as a whole system that centers on people and includes all things in the nature. Each subsystem in the environment is interrelated, mutually restricted, interdependent, opposite, and mutually transformable with each other. The function of this system is to ensure macro-coordination among various subsystems, optimize the structure, and form the best combination.

Land divination includes several main factors: Firstly, the site should be near mountains and water. Mountain is the skeleton of the earth while water is the source of all lives. Without water, people cannot survive. Secondly, observe the shape and trend. "Kao Gong Ji" (Artificers' Record) told that "according to geomorphology, there will be a stream between mountains". People must adapt to the trends of these streams. Thirdly, inspect the geology of the land. The trace elements in the soil, geology, and magnetic field can all affect people's health.

Fourthly, analyze the water quality. "Guanzi • Land Divination" (Master Guan) believed that soil quality determined water quality and water quality could be judged from water colors. "Bo Shan Pian" (Mountain Divination) advocated "tasting water to recognize the breath and further locate a precious royal place". Fifthly, the site should face south.

Most parts of China are located to the north of the Tropic of Cancer. In most time of the year, sunshine enters the house from the south. Therefore, facing south is a natural choice. Sixthly, the site should be moderate, centered, and impartial, which is identical to the Chinese culture that emphasizes golden mean. Seventhly, take advantage of dynamic qi. Qi (Tai Chi) produces and affects all things.

There is the theory that "heaven and earth is the mother of all things" in Chinese traditional concepts. That is, all life forms including human are produced through the interaction between heaven and earth.

"Tai Chi creates two poles, two poles foster

four phenomena, four phenomena generate eight trigrams, and eight eights are sixtyfour hexagrams." Here, "Tai Chi" refers to the original state; "two poles" refer to heaven and earth; "four phenomena" refer to the weathers of four seasons, that is, great yang (long days —summer), great yin (short days—winter), lesser yang (between Summer Solstice and Autumn Equinox), and lesser yin (between Winter Solstice and Spring Equinox); "eight trigrams" refer to eight positions. These words are sourced from the "Book of Changes" and mean that all things in the universe share the same source, follow the same procedure, and have the same rhythm. That is, the universe is a unified field; heaven, earth, and human are a harmonious union. In simple terms, feng shui is originally a theory that integrates the main metaphysical concept of yin and yang with the concepts of heaven (the universe, the sun, etc.), earth (the earth and geography), man (people's homes and graves), and time (rise and fall of heaven and earth, life states of all things). Later, it is rigidly coupled with various concepts such as reinforcements and counteractions among Five Elements, Heavenly Stems, and Earthly Branches, and becomes a folk belief to pray for luck.

In China's traditional culture, there is no true religion but only the worship of nature, which is based on practicality and rationality.

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Land Divination and "Ecological Architecture" Early in the 1950s, a group of young architects led by Mr. and Mrs. Smith in the United States believed that in the building, architect should consider not just the factors of people but the factors of "people + nature + people to nature". In 1969, Professor McHarg from the University of Pennsylvania published the "Design With Nature". In his book he stated that landscape was determined by the ecology and all things in the nature were interrelated with each other, and advocated considering the relationship between man and the natural environment from an overall

and organic perspective. Based on the theory of ecology, this opinion profoundly expounded the relationship between man and nature and became the foundation of ecological architecture or architectural ecology. This book has thus become a classic of ecological architecture and planning, and has a profound impact on the entire field of architecture and urban planning.

China's land divination and feng shui emphasize the harmony with nature and people's close integration with architecture and environment when choosing a quality living environment. In this sense, architectural ecology shares some similarities with China's land divination and feng shui theories.

Architectural ecology regards people, building, natural environment, and social environment as an artificial ecosystem.

Building is just a system part given to people to meet some of their needs. Only when building and people together become a ring of the ecosystem and comply with ecological rules can the ecosystem function properly.

In 1984, Nancy J. Todd and John Todd published the book "Ecology as the Basis of Design" that included a special study on the world outlook of land divination and feng shui. Paul Sun's report on the "New York Sun Village Conference" pointed out: The world outlook of feng shui was sourced from observations on the nature and contained profound telepathy; it was a method to harmonize and coordinate the nature for dwellers and their descendants to have plain living in their settlements; it clearly advocated choosing a site for residence, building, garden, and even grave and coordinating the site with the topography and the trends of wind and water. Land divination and feng shui obviously have some practicality, but were inappropriately used and wrapped in the cloak of superstition. This superstition, however, turns feng shui into an authority for restricting ignorant farmers from abusing lands. In their books, the Todd couple pointed out various similarities between feng shui and the ecological architecture forms such as modern solar architecture, earth sheltered architecture, and underground architecture; they believed that feng shui involved profound wisdom; as a world outlook, feng shui provided theoretical basis for a stable culture and guided people to revere the nature.

The word " 自然 " in modern translation is borrowed from Japanese and highlights nature's opposition to civilization and

culture. Western concepts about the nature are very complicated and mainly fall into three categories: The first believes that man can utilize and conquer nature; the second believes that nature is irrelevant to man and has its own value, and suggests that man should appreciate and respect the wild nature; the third uses imagination to reconcile the relationship between man and nature. For example, idylls are used to amend the shortcomings of modern life.

In the period of the May 4th Movement, the first view of nature is widely accepted

by Chinese intellectuals. In China's traditional culture, there is no true religion but only the worship of nature, which is based on practicality and rationality.

天時、地利、人和 中國人強調「天時、地利、人和」的協調 統一，這一理念的產生可溯源中國古代。《周 易 . 乾卦》中提到：「夫大人者，與天地合共德， 與日月合共明，與四時合共序，與鬼神合共吉 凶。先天而天弗違，後天而奉天時。」儒家崇 尚「天人合一」，道家推崇「自然無為」、「天 也，自然也」。不論是儒家《孟子 . 盡心》的「上 下與天地同流」，還是道家《莊子 . 齊物論》 「天 地與我並生，而萬物與我為一」，都把人和天 地萬物緊密地聯繫在一起，視為不可分割的共 同體，從而形成一種主觀力量。 中國傳統文化的環境理念複雜、多變，但 最主要的理論有以下兩種：一是「天人感應觀」， 這是儒道都認同的。在本質上，它是一種人本 主義，認同人類利用自然萬物，但這種利用的 終極目的是在人間和上天的宇宙中建立相成的 關係。另一條是「萬物慈悲觀」，這是佛教認 同的。對佛教教義而言，在本質上，人類並不 優於其他萬事萬物。上世、轉世的重生觀念將 各種生命體串聯在一起。莊子在《庖丁解牛》 中將宰牛描繪成是愉快的事，自佛教傳入後， 中國人的閱讀感受就不可能再像原來那樣了。 在這兩種主要理論之外，「氣」及「風水」的 觀念，也對中國人理解自然產生了深遠影響， 直到今天，依然為大眾所用。

始於上古 「篤公劉，既溥既長。既景乃岡，相其陰

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陽，觀其流泉。其軍三單，度其隰原。徹田為

地把握協調各系統之間的關係，優化結構，尋

糧，度其夕陽。豳居允荒。」這是《詩經·大

求最佳組合。

雅·公劉》裏的一章，說的是在上古時代，周

這裡面有幾大要素：一是依山傍水，山體

文王的祖先公劉先生帶領周民族遷徙，他在觀

是大地的骨架，水域是萬物生機之源泉，沒有

察了遷徙地「豳」這個地方的山川陰陽相背、

水，人就不能生存。二是觀形察勢，《考工記》

水源、土地後，鑑定這裡適宜生存，從此，周

說「天下之勢，兩山之間必有川矣」，要順應

族便於此開始了農耕生活。這說明至少在公元

這些水勢的脈絡。三是地質檢驗，土壤中的微

前 1000 多年左右的周代起，人們就開始以一

量元素、地質、磁場，都會影響人的健康。四

定的理論觀察環境，並以此作為判斷生存環境

是水質分析，《管子·地貞》認為土質決定水

優劣的依據。

質，從水的顏色判斷水的品質，「水白而甘，

這種校察地理的方法，也叫「地相」、「堪

水黃而嗅，水黑而苦」，《博山篇》主張「尋

輿術」、「風水」。這種方法的創始人是傳說

龍認氣，認氣嘗水。其色碧，其昧甘，其色香，

中的九天玄女，中國傳統環境學比較完善的體

主上貴；其色白，其昧清，其昧溫，主中貴；

系起源於戰國時代，是中國歷史悠久的一門玄

其色淡、其昧辛、其氣烈，主下貴；苦酸澀，

術，也稱「青鳥」、「青囊」。在古代，「堪

若發饅，不足論。」五是坐北朝南，中國地處

輿術」盛行於中華文化圈，是衣食住行的一個

北迴歸線上下，一年四季陽光多由南邊進入屋

很重要的因素。有許多與之相關的文獻被保留

內，所以坐北朝南是自然的選擇。六是適中居

下來，多用作城鎮及村落選址、還有宮殿建設，

中，就是恰到好處，不偏不倚，這和中國人強

後來發展至尋找喪葬地形。

調中庸的文化相吻合。七是順乘生氣，太極即

中國第一部紀傳體通史《史記》的《樗里

氣，一氣積而生兩儀，一生三而五行具，土得

子甘茂列傳》記載了樗里子（嚴君疾）觀察天

之氣，水得之於氣，人得之於氣，氣感而應萬

文地理預測未來的事件。樗里子即秦孝公子，

物莫不得于氣。

是秦惠文王的弟弟，戰國時代秦國著名的軍事

中國的傳統觀念中有「天地生萬物」一說，

家和政治家。他晚年時自擇墓地，預測「後百

即一切生命體包括人都是在天地交互作用下而

歲，是當有天子之宮來夾我墓」。果然在他卒

產生的。「太極生兩儀，兩儀生四象，四象生

後百歲，劉邦建立漢朝，於是後世稱他為相地

八卦，八卦重疊成六十四卦。」這裡面的「太

術正宗。

極」指的是原始狀態，兩儀即天地，四象即四

臨場校察地理的理論則是在秦漢時期形

季氣象；稱太陽（長日照——夏季），太陰（短

成，和五術的命、卜、相皆有所關聯，基本構

日照——冬季）、少陽（夏至後直到秋分時）、

成源自《易經》的卦象，其主要的流派有三元

少陰（冬至後直到春分時），「八卦」即八個

法、三合法、九星法、陽宅三要法、八宅明鏡

方位，源自《易經》，即宇宙萬事萬物，信息

法、玄空法等。

同源，程序相同，節奏相應，即宇宙統一場，

唐宋後，不同學派的太極圖出現，風水與

即天地人合一。簡單而言，堪輿、風水的理論

術數、民間信仰已密不可分，主要理論建基於

主要是以玄學的陰陽消長理論，配合天（宇宙、

傳統的陰陽學說、易經、與河圖、洛書。他們

太陽等）與地（地球、地理環境）及人（人之

借用中國最早的充滿哲學思想的周易這一經典

居所、所卜葬之地）與時（天地之元運盛衰、

著作，加上道（主張形神合一）、釋（主張因

萬物之生老病死），不過後來被人們生硬地配

果報應和輪迴思想）、巫（主張神靈對人運的

上五行干支術數各種所謂相剋相應，形成了民

影響）、占星（主張星宿對人的影響），促進

間祈求運氣的一種信仰。

了風水的發展。

堪輿與「生態建築學」 堪輿的要素

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早在 20 世紀 50 年代，以美國史密斯夫

堪輿術把環境作為一個整體系統，這個系

婦為首的一批青年建築師就認為，在建築中，

統以人為中心，包括天地萬物。環境中的每一

只考慮人的接觸是不足夠的，而應該是「人＋

個子系統都是相互聯繫、相互制約、相互依存、

自然＋人對自然」的觀念。1969 年，美國賓

相互對立、相互轉化的。它的功能就是要宏觀

夕凡尼亞州的邁克·哈格教授出版了《結合自

MOUTAI Magazine

中國傳統文化中， 並沒有真正的宗教，而只有對 大自然的膜拜，這種膜拜是建 立在實用理性之上的。

然的設計》。他書中指出：「風景是由生態決

統的正常運作。

一種世界觀，給一個穩定的文化提供了理論依

定的，自然萬物均處於相互關聯之中，主張從

1984 年，托德夫婦出版的《生態學設計

整體有機的角度去考慮人類與自然環境之間的

基礎》一書，專門列有對堪輿、風水世界觀的

關係。」這種觀點建立在生態學理論的基礎上，

探討。孫保羅在 1982 年《紐約太陽村會議》

「自然」的現代譯法借日語而來，它突出

深刻闡述了人與自然的關係，成為生態建築學

的報告中說：風水世界觀源於對天地的仰觀俯

自然和文明、文化的對立。西方關於自然的觀

或稱建築生態學產生的基礎。這本書也因此成

察，也包含著深奧的精神感應。它是一種大自

念也很複雜，最主要的有三種思潮：一是視自

為生態建築學與規劃的經典之作，對整個建築

然和諧、協調的方法，以便使居住者及其子孫

然為人類可利用的物體，認同人類征服自然的

與城市規劃領域產生了深遠的影響。

能在其聚居處擁有平實的生活。它明確指出，

能力；二是認為自然與人無關，有它自身的價

中國的堪輿、風水講究選擇優質的生活環

據，使之成為了當時人民對大自然謙卑、恭順 行為的指南。

居宅、建築、園林乃至墓地，都要進行基址選

值，主張自然荒野本身應該受到人類的欣賞和

境，重在順應自然，使人和建築與環境密切融

擇，使基址與地形地貌、風和水的運作相聯繫。

崇敬；三是利用想像來調和人與自然的關係，

合。從這種意義上來說，建築生態學與中國風

風水、堪輿有明顯的實用性，但被不恰當的應

譬如田園牧歌，修正現代生活的弊端。在五四

水、堪輿思想有一致性。建築生態學把人、建

用而裹上了迷信的外衣。而這迷信，卻使風水

運動時期，第一種自然觀被中國知識分子普遍

築、自然環境和社會環境看作是一個人工生態

成為限制愚昧農民濫用土地的權威。托德夫婦

接受。中國傳統文化中，並沒有真正的宗教，

系統，建築只是系統中為滿足人的某種需要而

在書中詳細指出了風水與現代太陽能建築、覆

而只有對大自然的膜拜，這種膜拜是建立在實

屬於人的部分，它必須跟人一起成為生態系統

土建築及地下建築等生態學建築形式的種種相

用理性之上的。

中的一環，依生態規律行事，才能確保生態系

同性，認為風水確實含有深邃的智慧，它作為

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Unduplicated Moutai: Harmony Between "Man" and "Nature" 不可複製的茅台酒：「天」、「人」合一 EDITING / 採編：Moon

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"Can Moutai be made out of Moutai Town?"

One day in May, 1997, China's ambassadors from more than 30 foreign countries and international organizations visited Moutai and raised this question.

In fact, "cloning" Moutai out of Moutai Town has been proved impossible. In 1970s, there was a large-scale attempt to make Moutai at the suburb of Zunyi, only 100 km away from Moutai Town, and the personnel, equipment, raw materials, technology, and even cellar mud were moved from Moutai, but the spirits yielded did not come up to "Moutai flavor" at all. 「茅台酒在別的地方能生產出來嗎？」 這是 1997 年 5 月的一天，中國駐 30 多個國家和國際組織的大使和參贊到茅台 酒廠考察時提出的問題。 事實上，異地「克隆」茅台酒早已被證明是不可能實現的。上世紀 70 年代， 曾在與茅台鎮相距僅 100 余公里的遵義市郊，進行了茅台酒異地生產的大規模 試驗，人員、設備、原料、工藝甚至窖泥都從茅台搬去， 但生產出的酒完全不是「茅台味」。

Records of Failing to Duplicate Moutai In 1974, workers of Moutai Distillery were lying on the wooden beams of Workshop 1. They were "collecting" the dust strips that had been accumulated for decades.

These dust strips were an important part of distillery "equipment" to be relocated.

The Vice Premier Fang Yi personally planned Moutai's relocated production.

He strongly supported the project: China could even make the atomic bomb. Can't we reveal Moutai's secret? So, Moutai Distillery picked a number of excellent liquor-makers, workers, as well as engineers, and cheerfully carried a large number of equipment and raw materials, including a box of dust (it was said that the dust contained abundant microbes necessary for making Moutai) to the suburb of Zunyi——a new site picked from more than 50 places throughout the country by a deputy commander. Without any industrial pollution, this site had lots of spring and was next to Dongjiu's distillery.

The most critical was that this site was only about 100 km away from Moutai Town and theoretically had the same climate.

The experiment lasted 11 years, including

nine cycles and 63 production rounds.

In 1985, Zhou Henggang, evaluation team leader of the National Liquor Tasting Committee, led more than 50 experts to verify the experimental results of Moutai's relocated production. As a result, this socalled "Mao Yi" (Moutai Technique), a liquor made in strict accordance with Moutai's technique, was eventually proved to have nothing like Moutai at all.

In 1982, a Japanese scholar used the GCMS (gas chromatography-mass spectrometry) method and found up to 230 types of aroma in Moutai liquor, but his attempt to create Moutai liquor by using edible alcohol and aromatic components failed.

Latest studies show that Moutai contains over 1,000 volatile and semi-volatile components, the world's most complicated one in terms of aromatic components, much more than French Cognac Brandy and Scotch Whisky. However, even today, it is still unclear which main components form Moutai's Jiang fragrance.

Then, what makes Moutai's "Jiang" fragrance exceptional?

What create the legend of unduplicated Moutai are the Chishui River, Moutai

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Town's unique climate, abundant microbes in the valley, as well as the little "Red Tassel" sorghum all over the mountains and valley——the special red sorghum of Renhuai County and the main raw material for making Moutai.

Unduplicated Natural Environment Originating from Zhenxiong County of Yunnan Province, the Chishui River flows through Moutai Town into the Changjiang (Yangtse) River near Hejiang County (of Sichuan Province), with a total length of over 500 km. This is the only Changjiang upstream tributary that has no hydropower station.

Therefore, it retains many pristine species.

Many extinct species of the Yangtze River can be found here, among which is the Taohua fish that comes from the original lower reach and breeds here. Besides, soil erosion on both banks also becomes its feature instead of shortcoming. The Chishui River is the most fragrant river in China. Within the area of 500 km around the river, there are about 10,000 liquor distilleries, including 60% of China's famous liquor brands, big and small sizes.

Located on the east bank of the Chishui River and belonging to "China's Liquor Capital" Renhuai City, Moutai Town boasts long history of liquor making tradition and culture as well as mysterious and unique natural environment. Situated at the northern side in the western range of the Dalou Mountain and surrounded by mountains, with the Chishui River flowing through, this area is the core production base of Chinese Jiang fragrance liquor, and the home of Moutai, one of the world's top three distilled liquors.

The altitude of mountains and hills along the Chishui River is over 1,000 meters, but when the river reaches Moutai Town, its valley suddenly comes lower to an altitude of about 400 meters. Workshops 1 and 2, Moutai Distillery's oldest workshops where the original Chengyi and Ronghe workshops were located, are even at the lowest part of the entire town. The entire Moutai valley is surrounded by three mountains, and serves as nature's big liquor cellar, featuring high temperature, slight wind and less rainfall, very suitable for microbes to breed and gather.

This is the masterpiece of nature. Even the air here is full of indescribable liquor fragrance that lingers all year round, and behind this strong fragrance, all secrets of Moutai Town remain mysterious. Thousands

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of years' liquor production has helped microbes breed and grow stably in the Moutai river valley, where these little spirits have involved in the liquor making process, playing a unique role in Moutai's exceptional quality. Moutai's main fragrance component —Jiang fragrance is closely related to these microbes that exist around this unique natural environment, which is why Moutai cannot be replicated out of Moutai Town.

Water is the blood of liquor. The Chishui River gathers varieties of outstanding water and flows towards the east, featuring exceptional water quality, clear, clean, sweet, tasty, and moderate PH level. The river offers the most precious water resource for making Moutai.

Surprisingly, the water color of the Chishui River can vary with seasons. During the rainy season from the Dragon Boat Festival to the Double Ninth Festival, the river water turns reddish brown because much purple soil along the banks flows into the river, and from the Double Ninth Festival to the Dragon Boat Festival the next year, the river water becomes clear because of less rainfall. For thousands of years, Moutai people have made liquor based on seasonal changes of water, that is, collect water to steam grains during the Double Ninth Festival. The making technique learnt from nature and reflecting the harmony between man and nature makes every drop of Moutai the blend and essence of heaven and earth.

Besides mysterious climate and water, the unique soil also makes a difference.

Moutai Town is home to a special geologic and geomorphologic structure of purple sandshale and conglomerate formed 70 million years ago. With purple soil layer on the surface and containing high levels of gravel and sandy soil, the soil has good water permeability. When the ground water and surface water pass through the soil layers at both banks, the beneficial minerals and trace elements are dissolved. After layers of penetration, the water becomes the pure, sweet, and precious "water of life" for making Moutai.

In 1960s, after on-site investigation, the pedologists from Chinese Academy of Sciences concluded that the purple calcareous soil in Moutai Town is rare in China, and is an important factor for the production of Moutai.

Still, Moutai liquor has more secrets.

From the very sowing of the first seed, the secret has been deeply buried.

Around the Moutai valley, the traditional

farming methods and rules are still practiced today; non-genetically-modified seeds, totally natural fertilizer free of chemicals and pesticides as well as the most demanding planting requirements together produce the unique sorghum and wheat native to this region, the irreplaceable organic raw materials for making Moutai. With reasonable proportion of starch and tannin, and able to endure steaming and repeated processing, this kind of glutinous sorghum is the only sorghum that can withstand the test of Moutai's complicated technique. The locally grown wheat, featuring full and uniform kernel, deep crease, and rich starch content, is the best choice for producing Moutai ferment.

Today, Moutai Group, together with such counties and cities as Renhuai in the Chishui River basin, has jointly built a base of up to one million mu to produce high-quality sorghum and wheat. Known as "the first production workshop of the national liquor Moutai", this enormous project ensures the "green" and "organic" quality of Moutai liquor, revitalizes the regional economy, enriches the local people, and helps the traditional farming civilization to continue in harmonious ways.

Guarding the Natural Source

The Moutai valley, Chishui River, purple soil, microbes, and local raw materials cannot be cloned.

Therefore, the industry concludes that "out of Moutai Town, producing Moutai is impossible."

The Moutai valley, Chishui River, purple soil, microbes, and local raw materials cannot be cloned. Therefore, the industry concludes that "out of Moutai Town, producing Moutai is impossible". The origin protected region of Moutai covers 15.03 square kilometers and "Kweichow Moutai" is the only brand to be protected in the region. With unduplicated uniqueness, Moutai is the only liquor brand that has garnered the titles of "Green Food", "Organic Food", "Geographically Representative Product", and "China's Intangible Cultural Heritage" from the Chinese authorities.

The Creator creates this wonderland and the unique environment, whereas the Moutai people cherish all these very much, and make Moutai liquor to be an eternal legend.

As early as 1972, Premier Zhou Enlai stressed that within the upstream 100 km of Moutai Distillery, mining construction should not affect the brewing water, and building chemical plants was forbidden. His favor for Moutai and foresight reserved precious environmental space for Moutai's development.

For over 40 years, Moutai people have

always implemented this instruction strictly and "cherished their environment the same as they cherished their eyes". Many enterprises may appeal for and advocate environmental protection, but very few are similar to Moutai.

Putting forward the strategic development orientation of "Green Moutai" and regarding "environmental protection" as an important part of its sustainable development strategies, Moutai adopts the protection mode of "Green Future". For years, Moutai has taken various measures to ensure that every process, from raw materials, making technique, to brewing environment, is free from any harm, pollution, or poison, and has tried all out to meet the international green food standards. All of these accomplish today's Moutai, a drop of "water" that comes seemingly from empirical practices but actually from scientific rationality, and a nectar jointly created by nature and man.

Located on the banks of the Chishui River, Moutai Group today has grown into a guru in the industry. Its growth, however, comes not at the cost of polluting the Chishui River.

For decades, Moutai Group has invested vast sum of money to plant trees on the mountains around, and made all efforts to afforest and build environmentally-friendly facilities around Moutai Town. Moutai Group even promises to donate, from 2014 on, a total of 500 million RMB over the next 10 years to prevent water pollution and protect the ecological environment of the Chishui River valley. Besides, together with the Renhuai City government, Moutai Group also established the "Statelevel Protected Area for Soil and Water Conservation and Biodiversity of the Chishui River" to conserve and improve the special ecological environment for making Moutai.

With "Circular Economy" at the core of its development strategy, Moutai Group strives to increase output without damaging the environment. By recycling all derivatives of production, an organic production chain system has been established. Besides, environmentallyfriendly is also the principle for Moutai Group to design its new production center.

As we see, on the greener banks of Chishui River, Moutai people are building a more and more harmonious environment between man and nature, because they believe that both the Chishui River and microbes are the lifeblood of Moutai liquor and Moutai people.

MOUTAI Magazine

23

複製茅台酒的失敗記錄

工藝製造的酒，最終還是放棄了和茅台沾邊

等地， 於合江縣注入長江，全長 500 餘公里。

的想法。

這是長江上游唯一沒有修建水電站的支流，

1974 年，茅台酒廠工人趴在一車間的

1982 年，日本學者曾採取氣相色譜與

也因此保留了大量的原生態物種，長江中已

木樑上，他們正在「打撈」積攢了幾十年的

質譜聯用，剖析出茅台酒中香氣香味成分達

經絕跡的許多物種在這裡還能找到，例如桃

條狀灰塵，這，也是準備搬遷的酒廠「設備」

230 種，並試圖以食用酒精添加香氣成分仿

花魚，是從下游一路上溯到這裡繁衍的。而

的重要組成部分。

製茅台酒，最終以失敗告終。

兩岸的水土流失沒有成為它的缺點，反而成

時任國務院副總理的方毅親自主持茅台

最新的研究表明，茅台酒中含有 1,000

為它的特徵。赤水河是中國版圖上最香醇的

酒的易地生產規劃，他對此專案極為支持 :

多種揮發性或半揮發性成分，其香氣香味成

一條河流，以此為核心、方圓 500 公里內彙

原子彈都能造的中國，連茅台酒的秘密都不

分是世界酒類中最複雜的，遠高於法國科涅

集了中國 60% 的名酒廠和大小酒廠近萬家。

能揭開？於是，茅台酒廠精選了一批表現好

克白蘭地、英國的蘇格蘭威士忌。然而，時

赤水河東岸的茅台鎮隸屬「中國酒都」

的酒師、工人、工程師，帶著大批設備、原

至今日，構成茅台醬香的主體成分是什麼，

仁懷市，擁有悠久的釀酒傳統和文化，以及

料，包括一箱子的灰塵（據說那裡有豐富的

還沒有準確的答案。

神秘而獨特的自然環境。這一帶為大婁山脈

微生物，是製造茅台酒所必須的），敲鑼打 鼓搬往遵義近郊——一個姓周的海軍副司令

到底是什麼形成了茅台酒「醬」香神話 的主要來源？

香型白酒的核心產區，世界三大蒸餾酒之一

員在全國找了 50 多個地方後才選中的新址，

創造了茅台酒不可複製的傳奇的是，赤

這裡沒有任何工業污染，有大量的山泉，旁

水河、茅台鎮的獨特氣候和谷地裡大量的微

邊就是董酒的生產廠——最關鍵的，和茅台

生物群落，外加滿山滿穀的矮小的「紅糧」

1,000 米以上，到了茅台鎮，突然低矮下去，

鎮相距 100 多公里，按道理說，氣候屬同類。

——仁懷縣特殊的糯高粱，這是茅台酒的主

海拔只有 400 米。而茅台酒廠最古老的一

要原料。

車間和二車間，也就是當年成義、榮和兩大

實驗持續了 11 年，進行了 9 個週期， 63 輪的製造，1985 年，全國評酒委員會考 評小組組長周恒剛帶領 50 多名專家，前來 考察易地生產的茅台酒的實驗成果，結果， 這種本來叫做「茅藝」的、嚴格按照茅台酒

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西段北側，四面環山，一水中流，是中國醬

MOUTAI Magazine

的茅台酒獨產於此。 赤水河兩岸的高山峻嶺一路海拔都在

酒坊所在地，還在整個鎮的最低處，坐汽車

無法複製的環境 發源於雲南鎮雄的赤水河，流經茅台鎮

下去也要盤旋 10 分鐘山路。整個茅台河谷 呈三山環抱之勢， 仿佛一個巨大的天然「酒 甑」，造就出一個氣溫較高、風微雨少、微

生物易生殖而不易失散的外部環境。

茅台鎮周圍河谷地區，至今仍然保留著

造化賜予的也許只是天賦，讓這片神奇

這就是造物主的神奇，連空氣都成就了

古老的種植方式和規則，最純正的種子、最

水土繁衍至今、傳承著國酒傳奇的，是摯愛

酒。一種複雜得難以描述的酒香彌漫于此，

天然的農家肥、最苛刻的種植條件，方才成

這片山水自然的茅台人。

常年不息，濃郁得好像隱藏著茅台鎮的所有

長出茅台酒不可替代的有機釀造原料——這

早在 1972 年，周恩來總理特地批示強

奧秘。加之茅台河谷地區數千年傳承不息的

就是獨長於斯的糯高粱和小麥。糯高粱的澱

調：茅台酒廠上游 100 公里內，不允許因工

釀酒活動，使微生物群能夠長期、穩定的繁

粉、單寧比例合理，耐煮蒸和翻造，只有它

礦建設影響釀酒用水，更不能建化工廠。他

衍、生長，這些無處不在的微小精靈大量參

才經得起茅台酒複雜工藝的考驗。本地小麥

對國酒的厚愛和深謀遠慮，為茅台的發展預

與到茅台酒的釀造過程中，對茅台酒神奇品

顆粒飽滿均勻、腹溝深而多粉，是製作茅台

留了寶貴的環境空間。

質的孕育起到了極為獨特的作用。茅台酒的

酒曲的較好選擇。

40 多年來，茅台人一直嚴格執行這個

主體香——醬香的形成，正與這個自然生態

囑託，「像愛護眼睛一樣愛護自己的環境」。

圈中特殊的微生物群落息息相關，同時這也

呼籲並提倡環保的企業很多， 但 像茅台這

正是茅台酒不能易地再生的根本原因所在。

樣，提出「綠色茅台」的戰略發展定位，又

水為酒之血，「集靈泉於一身，匯秀水 而東下」的赤水河，水質優良、無色透明、 無嗅無味、清冽爽口、酸堿適度，更是釀造 茅台酒最寶貴的自然資源。 令人稱奇的是，赤水河河水會隨著季 節變換而呈現不同的顏色。端午至重陽時，

由於茅台河谷、赤水河、 紫紅色土壤、微生物群、本 地原料的無法克隆，業界得 出了「離開了茅台鎮，就產 不出茅台酒」的結論。

將「環境護企」作為可持續性發展戰略的重 要組成部分，「環保即未來」的保護模式並 不多見。多年來，茅台通過種種措施，不論 是生產原料、釀造工藝，還是釀造環境，每 一個環節都堅持無公害、無污染、無毒，持 之不懈地向國際環保食品的標準嚴格看齊。

適逢雨季，兩岸大量紫紅色土壤沖入河中，

於是成就了今天茅台這滴「水」，看似大量

河水呈赤紅色；而重陽至第二年端午之間，

經驗主義的東西中凝聚著科學理性，一個天

雨量驟減，河水恢復清澈透明。千百年來，

地與人創造的尤物。

茅台人就是依據河水的季節變化進行釀酒活

今天，儘管緊挨著赤水河畔，但茅台集

動，即重陽採水、造沙潤糧。道法自然、天

如今，茅台集團與赤水河流域的仁懷等

團的壯大，並未以犧牲赤水河的潔淨作為代

人合一的釀造工藝，使每一滴茅台美酒都蘊

縣市共同建立起了近百萬畝優質高粱、小麥

價。幾十年來，茅台人投入大量資金在周邊

含著天地的神韻與精華。

基地，這個被譽為「國酒茅台第一生產車間」

連綿的大山上栽植樹木、不遺餘力地在茅台

的浩大工程，為持續確保茅台酒「綠色」、

鎮進行綠化和環保設施建設。 茅台更是承

「有機」的高品質創造了條件，也是一項振

諾，從 2014 年起連續十年累計捐贈 5 億元

興區域經濟的「富民工程」，傳統的農耕文

人民幣，用於支持赤水河流域水污染防治和

明也因此獲得和諧的保存。

生態環境保護。 茅 台集團還與仁懷市聯合

除了神奇的天和神奇的水，還有神奇的 土壤。 茅台鎮地質地貌結構非常特殊，覆蓋的 紫色沙葉岩、礫岩形成於 7,000 萬年以前， 土壤表面發育著的紫紅色土層，尤其是土中 礫石和沙質土體含量高，有良好的滲水性。 地面水和地下水通過兩岸的土層過濾，將對

創建「赤水河流域水土保持暨生物多樣性功

守護天然之源

能國家級保護區」，進一步保持和提高國酒 生產的特殊生態環境品質。

人體有益的礦物質、微量元素溶解，滲透出

由於茅台河谷、赤水河、紫紅色土壤、

「循環經濟」是茅台集團發展戰略的核

純淨清甜的甘露，誕生出釀造茅台酒最珍貴

微生物群、本地原料的無法克隆，業界得出

心：即不增加環境負荷、不增加廢棄物、讓

的「生命之水」。

了「離開了茅台鎮，就產不出茅台酒」的結

所有附生品都能形成循環利用的有機鏈條的

論。在 15.03 平方公里的茅台酒原產地保護

前提下，提高茅台酒的產量。而環境友善原

地考察後得出結論：茅台鎮這種紫色鈣質土

區裡，「貴州茅台」也是唯一受保護的品牌。

則正是茅台集團新廠區的設計理念。

全國罕有，是茅台酒生產的重要基礎。

上世紀 60 年代，中科院的土壤專家實

國酒茅台的不可複製性，使之成為唯一集國

可以看到，在更加綠色的赤水河畔，茅

茅台酒的秘密還不止於此。

家「綠色食品」、「有機食品」、「地理標

台人，正在開拓一個「人與環境」和諧發展

從第一粒種子下土開始，就已經深深地

誌保護產品」、「中國非物質文化遺產」於

的新時代。因為他們相信，不論赤水河還是

一身的白酒品牌。

微生物，都與茅台酒和茅台人骨脈相連。

埋下。

MOUTAI Magazine

25

Beauty of the Orient Interview with Tim Yip, Winner of the Oscars for Best Art Direction

東/方/神/思 ——專訪奧斯卡最佳藝術指導葉錦添 TEXT/ 文：Penny Zhou IMAGE/ 圖：Tim Yip Studio 本文所有圖片由葉錦添工作室提供並授權刊登

See a Movie in the Museum 在美術館裡看電影 INTERVIEW&TEXT / 採寫：Jocelyn Liao IMAGE / 圖：Tsai Ming-liang Studio, Guangdong Times Museum

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MOUTAI Magazine

Interview with Tsai Ming-liang, Winner of the Venice Film Festival Golden Lion Award and the Berlin Film Festival Silver Bear for Best Director 專訪威尼斯影展金獅獎、柏林影展銀熊獎導演蔡明亮

MOUTAI Magazine

27

Born to a Cantonese family in Malaysia, Tsai Ming-liang is one of the most celebrated film directors in Taiwan. His films have been acclaimed worldwide and have won numerous film festival awards, such as the Venice Film Festival Golden Lion Award, Berlin Film Festival Silver Bear and a series of international awards. He has been invited to the Louvre to shoot its first collection of works. Tsai Ming-liang became estranged from traditional theatrical distribution channel and started making movies released in the museums in recent years. His film "Stray Dogs" was presented in the Museum of National Taipei University of Education, in the form of video installations which pioneered a way to bring films into museums. In 2015, he brought this film to Guangzhou which is also the first time that Tsai Ming-liang's work is presented in its original form in Mainland China. 祖籍廣東、出生於馬來西亞的蔡明亮是台灣著名的獨立電影導演之一。他的多部電影在國際 影展享有盛譽，曾獲威尼斯影展金獅獎、柏林影展銀熊獎等一系列國際大獎，並受邀為羅浮 宮拍攝其第一部典藏作品。脫離傳統的影院發行模式，蔡明亮近年來開始為美術館而拍電影， 讓他再次斬獲金馬獎最佳導演的作品《郊遊》更是作為展覽的形式被呈現給觀眾。 今年，他把《郊遊》帶到了廣州，也是他第一次在中國大陸舉辦個人展覽。

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MOUTAI Magazine

A

s cross-strait relations changes rapidly, Taiwan's famous film directors such as Hou Hsiaohsien, Edward Yang, Ang Lee, Wei Tesheng, Doze Niu, and Chen Kuofu, frequently appeared in Mainland China.

But Tsai Ming-liang rarely showed up.

Finally in 2015, Tsai Ming-liang presented his work in an original form for the first time in Guangdong Times Museum and held his first solo exhibition in Mainland China. When we interviewed Tsai, he said, the majority of cross-strait exchanges are market-oriented; however his films are not of that field. Many organizations such as Peking University, had invited him to give a lecture, but he refused: "If my works can't be played on the screen, my speech will be an empty talk." During the exhibition opening events in Guangzhou, he made several speeches for 17-18 hours in total.

From Taiwan to the World With Cantonese ethnic background, Tsai was born in Malaysia and spent his first 20 years of his life in Kuching, Sarawak, after which he moved to Taipei. This, he says, had "a huge impact on his mind and psyche," perhaps later mirrored in his films.

He graduated from the Drama and Cinema Department of the Chinese Culture University of Taiwan in 1982 and worked as a theatrical producer, screenwriter, and television director.

After graduation, Tsai wrote and directed several plays, including one he starred in, all dealing with issues of loneliness and contemporary society, which became a lasting theme in his career. Tsai then went on to work as director and writer for television. In 1984, "Little Fugitive" became a career masterpiece of Tsai. The actress Yang Huishan in this film won the Taiwan Golden Horse Award for Best Actress and the film was also nominated for Best Picture. It was during the making of "The Kid" (1991), a TV film, when he was scouting for an actor, that he encountered Lee Kang-Sheng, who would become the director's muse and star in every single one of his films. The movie "Rebels of the Neon God" (1992) made Tsai renowned and helped him win the Golden Horse Awards for Best Original Score, Prize of the City of Torino for Best Film at the Torino International

Festival of Young Cinema, and the Bronze Award at Tokyo International Film Festival.

Tsai's film honors include a Golden Lion (best picture) for "Vive L'Amour" at the Venice Film Festival in 1994, the Silver Bear—Special Jury Prize for "The River" at the 47th Berlin International Film Festival, the FIPRESCI award for "The Hole" at the 1998 Cannes Film Festival, as well as the Alfred Bauer Prize and Silver Bear for Outstanding Artistic Achievement for "The Wayward Cloud" at the 2005 Berlin International Film Festival.

In 1995, he was a member of the jury at the 45th Berlin International Film Festival.

In 2005, the French government awarded him with the Ordre des Arts et des Lettres.

Make Films Under the Museum Exhibition System "Stray Dogs" was firstly exhibited in MoNTUE (Taipei). The museum was shaded from the sunlight by tons of branches shading which also echoed the film's scene. In "Stray Dogs", the protagonist raised billboards for a living every day. His wife left him and two children because of poverty. He could not afford the rent so they moved among outskirts woods, river bank, city streets, and deserted area. Lacking of water and electricity, they slept with cabbage. His children were always wandering in his working place, playing in the super market. In a stormy night, he walked out with two children for an extraordinary journey. The floor of the exhibition hall was covered with cabbagepattern pillows and cushions, which allow audiences to lie on the floor and even sleep on the floor. Tsai Mingliang, Lee Kang-Sheng, and Chen Xiangqi even lay on the floor together with the audience in MoNTUE Taipei. The film will not be released in theaters and audiences cannot have any chances to purchase authorized "Stray Dogs" DVD. Tsai called this film "create for the museum".

This is not the first time for Tsai to make films for the museum. Lin Hongzhang, the curator of Taiwan pavilion of the Venice Biennale in 2007, had asked Tsai to shoot "It's a Dream". Later, he cut a 3-minute version and sent it to the Cannes Film Festival as well as a 23-minute version and sent it to the Venice Film Festival. Good responses inspired him a lot. In 2009, the world-class art museum the Louvre also asked him to make a film. The concept "Create for the museum" stimulated him again. "Most of films are forced to be released in fixed rules and comply with commercial systems. Most investors still take the traditional theater system seriously while my thoughts are different from them. Now, I have the copyright of my own, so I made a decision: Starting from 'Stray Dogs', I will not follow theatrical distribution. I really hope audience to have new experiences of seeing movies. Films are not goods. They are art works. Movie is the art of time and seeing. It really needs time."

The Persistence of Details When shooting films, Tsai Mingliang is always choosing some existing locations based on original conditions. The characteristic of the protagonist will not be separated from the actor's own personality.

During post-production, he might take a long time to clip even only a few shots. You may not hear music or dialog in his film. It's very common that a shot lasts 20 minutes, thus audience need great patience.

This creative approach is similar to liquormaking: Respect for nature and be excelsior.

In general, most of the artists will only spend a few days at exhibition set-up period. But Tsai arrived in the Times Museum two weeks ahead. He was always staying in the exhibition hall by casually wearing slippers, a white T-shirt and jeans.

"I am used to taking care everything by

This creative approach is similar to liquor-making: Respect for nature and be excelsior.

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UPSIDE:

"Stray Dogs at the Museum“ exhibition in Guangdong Times Museum 廣東時代美術館《來美術館郊遊：蔡明亮大展》展覽現場

myself. My art directors, costume designers or editors, who have been working with me for years, can understand my insistence on details. We never produce film as a merchandiser, but purely for creation," Tsai said. Sometimes his editors may get confused about how to start in some very long segment. Tsai will make all decisions. It may take a very long time to cut only a few shots so his editors should be very patient.

He gave an example: It took five months to cut "Stray Dogs". Tsai said, "Many people laughed at me. They said that I took five months to cut only a dozen shots. I think they

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don't realize that it's all about the thinking.

Finishing film is not the end of creation. I have to pay attention to all the details." Tsai rarely NG movie with the habit of avoiding wastage. He will not let an actor try many roles. In his opinion, if the actors try many roles, it means the director is not confident.

Even if Tsai Ming-liang's team members have been all working with him for many years and familiar with his requirements, their works are not easily approved. "They may think I'm very troublesome (ha ha), but I get used to be very strict," Tsai said.

He will check every piece of subtitles, music, and lyrics by himself. Many Taiwan studios staff, who cooperated with Tsai, know his habit of post-production: He will stand behind them and focus on every detail. "I must keep every picture clean."

No Worries About the Queries Many audiences say it's hard to understand what Tsai Ming-liang wants to express. When mentioning art, a lot of people think it is too profound. "Please have an attitude that everyone can understand by different methods. Especially my movies are not for entertainment and your thoughts after seeing my movies even cannot be shared. Audiences have to understand it by relying on their own experience."

During the exhibition, a French returned student said she prepared dozens of questions to ask Tsai Ming-liang before, but she finally raised no question. Because she could get all the answers by watching how the director worked. "Not all art works are created to tell a story and flatter you. Let me ask you a question: Do you think you really understand Li Bai's poem? Your comprehension is probably different from others. For example, when you look at the moon, you suddenly start to cry. Why? If there is no moon here, will you cry? The moon is an art work at this moment. I always talked with the moon, but she never answered me (ha ha)," Tsai said.

Tsai Ming-liang described that most of his creations were "hot potatoes". "There are many argues in my films which I cherish a lot.

I'm very lucky to have an opportunity to be a director. It is a gift given by god. My films are like 'freak-spotting mirror' of the society, revealing the reality. I don't care whether they understand or not. Do you really want everyone to understand you? No! You have to endure all the taunts, queries and baffles."

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隨著海峽兩岸的開放和互通，兩地的文

2006 年成為被羅浮宮邀請拍攝其第一部典藏

審團大獎」，並再度榮獲金馬獎最佳導演，一

化也密切地交流着，台灣著名的電影導演，如

作品《臉》的華人導演；2013 年， 《郊遊》讓蔡

同合作了二十多年的演員李康生也一舉被封為

侯孝賢、楊德昌、李安、魏德聖、鈕承澤、陳

明亮第四度角逐威尼斯影展金獅獎，奪得「評

2013 年的金馬獎最佳影帝。2004 年，法國授 予他文學騎士勳章。

國富等，在中國大陸頻頻亮相。但同樣享譽國 際的導演蔡明亮卻鮮有現身大陸。今年，蔡明 亮第一次在內地呈現他的原作，於廣東時代美

為美術館而拍的電影

術館舉辦了他內地首次個展《來美術館郊遊： 蔡明亮大展》。本刊記者採訪蔡明亮時，他談

《郊遊》曾在台北北師美術館進行了首展。

到，這些年來兩岸的電影交流大多數談的是市

當時，美術館找來了大量的樹枝遮光，也和電

場，可能跟他沒什麼關係，北京大學曾請他演

影中的環境相呼應。《郊遊》描述主人公小康

講，他回絕了：「如果自己的作品無法在現場

每天以舉廣告牌為生，他的妻子因貧困離開了

播放，我認為演講則是空談。」而這一次，不

他和兩個孩子。他因負擔不起房租，過著居

再是空談，在廣州《郊遊》展期間，他進行了

無定所的日子，從郊區的樹林，到河堤，再到

幾場演講，累積起來有 17、8 個小時。

市區的街道，再到無人的地區，因為沒有水 電，總是抱著高麗菜相依入睡。平時，他的孩 子就在他舉牌附近的大樓遊蕩，在超級市場中

從台灣走向國際

子一同出走。展廳現場的地板上鋪滿了高麗菜

古晋市，祖籍廣東揭陽，他從小在廣東大戲和

圖樣的枕頭以及墊子，觀眾可以在地上躺著、

香港電影的熏陶下長大，能說流利的粵語。高

睡著觀看電影。在台北展覽中，蔡明亮、李康

中畢業后，他前往台灣學習，1981 年畢業於

生、陳湘琪甚至和觀眾一起躺著。院線不會上

中国文化大学戲劇系影劇組，此後定居台灣。

映這部影片，觀眾也不會買到正版的《郊遊》

學生時代，蔡明亮便開始撰寫舞台劇劇本，並

DVD，蔡導稱這部片為美術館而拍。

親自執導了三部作品。蔡明亮筆下的作品時

蔡明亮已經不是第一次為美術館而拍

以幽默手法，表現著現代社會、寂寞、都會

電影。台灣策展人林宏璋策劃 2007 年威尼

生活形態的狂亂等主題，如：《速食酢醬麵》

斯雙年展台灣館時，曾請蔡明亮創作了《是

（1981 年）和《黑暗裡打不開的一扇門》 （1982

夢》。後來，他把《是夢》剪了一個 3 分鐘的版

年） ；1983 年，自編、自導、自演一人作品

本給康城影展，一個 23 分鐘的版本送去威尼

《房間裡的衣櫃》，嘗試探討城市居民有意識的

斯影展，取得不錯的反應，這件事啟發了他。

自我防衛。這樣的風格內含，也是蔡明亮日後

2009 年，世界級的美術館羅浮宮也請他拍典

多數作品所探討的議題形式。1984 年的《小逃

藏，電影進入博物館的概念更加刺激他。 「現

犯》是蔡明亮電影編劇生涯的得獎代表作，女

在的電影很少不涉及發行，要發行就要在固定

主角楊惠珊一舉奪得台灣金馬獎最佳女主角，

院線、遵循固定的規則，片長、形式都要符合

影片也被提名最佳影片。

商業系統。有很多投資者概念我跟不一樣，他

1992 年，蔡明亮執導了第一部劇情長片

們還是以考慮戲院系統為主。後來，作品版權

電影《青少年哪吒》，男主角李康生是他此前

回到我手上，我決定要從《郊遊》開始做非院

在一個電動遊樂場中偶然間發現的。蔡明亮 為這位毫無表演經驗的青年量身訂制了劇本。 《青少年哪吒》讓蔡明亮聲名大噪，一舉獲得 1993 年東京影展銅櫻花獎、法國南特影展處 女作最佳影片獎、意大利都靈影展最佳影片 獎、金馬獎「最佳電影音樂」，且李康生以「小 康」為名，成為了蔡明亮電影中固定的主角。

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玩耍。在一個風雨交加的夜晚，他帶著兩個孩

蔡明亮 1957 年出生於馬來西亞砂勞越州

這種創作的手法 如同釀酒一樣，講求自 然，而且每一個環節都 要細細琢磨。

線發行，希望觀眾脫離習慣的電影體系，讓電 影脫離商品的概念，直接成為藝術品。電影是 什麼？本身就是時間的藝術，觀看的藝術，這 需要時間。」

執著於細節

從此，蔡明亮在國際影壇頻頻亮相，如 1994

蔡明亮電影的拍攝地點經常是已經存在的

年以《愛情萬歲》獲得威尼斯影展金獅獎、費

地方，因地制宜，主角的特點也不會與演員本

比西獎、金馬獎最佳導演獎等；1997 年以《河

身的個性脫離關係。後期製作的時候，一個幾

流》獲得柏林影展銀熊獎；2001 年《你那邊幾

分鐘的鏡頭他可能要花很長的時間剪輯，他的

點》芝加哥影展最佳導演；2005 年《天邊一朵

電影一般沒有音樂，也很少對白，一個長鏡頭

雲》獲第 55 屆柏林國際影展最佳藝術貢獻獎；

可能有 20 分鐘，欣賞者需要耐心地品味，或

MOUTAI Magazine

UPSIDE:

Tsai Ming-liang's talk in Guangdong Times Museum 蔡明亮在廣東時代美術館演講

許才能有所感悟。這種創作的手法如同釀酒

亮從來不怕。

懂不懂的問題丟掉。」

蔡明亮的設計師全都與他合作多年，熟知

在佈展期間，有一個剛從法國回來協助

他的要求和審美觀，但直到今天，在設計每一

工作的志願者，她說來當志願者前想了幾十個

在藝術展中，一般情況下，藝術家前來佈

件新的作品，他們仍然需要和導演重新討論。

問題要問蔡明亮，結果和導演一起工作了兩

展的時間不會很長，能花出幾天已經不算少。

剛開始，他對時代美術館設計的海報不滿意，

天，一個問題都不想問了，光是看導演做事的

而時代美術館《郊遊》展開幕前的兩個星期，

就換成自己熟悉的台北設計師重新創作。 「主

方式，就懂了，不需要再問。還有觀眾說看完

蔡明亮就已來到廣州布展，常是穿著拖鞋、白

辦機構可能也覺得我很麻煩吧（哈哈），不過

了他的電影，原來的疑問就消解了。 「不是所

T 恤、牛仔褲，在展廳裡穿梭。

一樣，講求自然，而且每一個環節都要細細琢 磨。

就一張海報，告訴你時間地點圖片就好，這個

有的創作都是你們習慣的那種：要講故事，要

「我很多事都要親歷親為。與我合作過的

關乎品質，我說印海報也要注意，要跟印刷廠

討好你，讓你明白、開心。創作者就是在抒發

人就知道，我的美術指導、服裝、剪輯、音

溝通，尤其到了生產線。雖然小小的東西，我

他的人生感受和情懷，李白的詩你就真的懂了

效，我都不會說讓別人去做就好，因為我們

都是非常嚴格的。」蔡明亮舉了個例子，電影

嗎，你懂的不見得和他懂的一樣。有人會去找

並不把電影當商品，而純粹當創作。」蔡明亮

的字幕、音樂、歌詞，他都不是隨便丟給技術

那個點，譬如光是出國留學，看到月亮，中秋

說。他哪怕只拍一個鏡頭，都會拍得很長，剪

人員。 「我要看他打出來，不是正確與否的問

節沒有月餅吃，你就哭了，這是為什麼？也許

輯師會納悶從何入手，所以一定要導演本人來

題，而是時間。所有台灣製片廠都知道，電影

沒有那個月亮你就沒有這個感受啊，藝術品就

決定。蔡明亮的剪輯師都很有耐心，一個鏡頭

后期製作時，我人一定會觀片，他們很緊張。

是這個月亮，我說我常跟月亮有對話，但是它

要看半小時可能才剪一段，然後過了一天，他

一首歌出來，是先看到歌詞還是先聽到歌詞？

有回答嗎？沒有，自言自語而已。」蔡明亮說。

如果覺得有更好的角度，就要一直重看。《郊

歌快、歌慢、字幕要停多久？都要有節奏，字

雖然屢獲大獎，但蔡明亮回想起來，那

遊》這部片子蔡明亮剪了五個月，他說：「大

過完了還停在那邊，就很礙眼，畫面永遠要保

些創作「大部分都是燙手山芋，不是世俗的那

家都笑，才幾十個鏡頭剪五個月，我說你們很

持乾淨。」

種好，真的是燙手山芋」。有非常多爭議以及

難理解。它就是要一個作者自己在那邊思考

肯定在他的創作裡面，他視之為珍惜的意見。

的，拍完電影不是結束創作，我是一直在進

「我做任何事情都是下工夫的，每一個事情的

行，關注各種細節。」這次展覽會有投影影像，

不擔心觀眾看不懂

機會，都是老天賜給我的禮物，一直在顯現這

呈現了未必納入電影裡的多個鏡頭。他拍電影

很多觀眾在網絡上評論說看不懂蔡明亮

個社會的面相，不足的，沉淪的，我常說我的

很少 NG 片，骨子裡不喜歡浪費，一個鏡頭，

的電影。他則認為，很多人擔心藝術就是看不

作品是照妖鏡，這樣講你們不要生氣，哈哈

只要拍，他就勢在必得，但出來以後可能會礙

懂，你會否擔心藝術就是曲高和寡？「要有一

哈，整個社會的現象因為我的一個作品被顯現

於節奏不適合，才拿走，使他以前常要練習割

個態度，每個人都看得懂，懂的方法不同，深

出來了，顯現現實。」回到有的觀眾不理解的

愛。演員方面，他不會讓一個演員什麼都演，

淺不同，懂不懂這個問題一早就該拋掉了。尤

問題上，他反問道：「你想要他們理解你嗎？

什麼都做，如果把演員從每個角度都拍一次，

其你看我的電影，不是娛樂，甚至無法分享，

你就變成他們吧。你不想變成他們，你就要忍

其實意味著導演沒把握，怕接不起來，但蔡明

都要靠自己的經驗，所以有時候我很希望這個

受大家的奚落、質疑，甚至阻礙。」

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The Aroma of A Century The Rise of a Nation Overseas Celebrations for 100th Anniversary of Moutai’s Winning the Panama Gold Award

「香飄世界百年，相伴民族復興」 貴州茅台酒榮獲巴拿馬萬國博覽會金獎 100 周年海外慶典 TEXT / 編輯整理：Jocelyn Liao TRANSLATION / 翻譯：Billy Yung,Jocelyn Liao

For China's national liquor Kweichow Moutai, 2015 is the 100th anniversary of winning the Panama Pacific International Exposition gold award. As the representative of Chinese heritage, Moutai always spares no effort to promote Chinese traditional culture. From July 2014, Kweichow Moutai held a series of celebrations called "The Aroma of a Century, The Rise of a Nation" at home and abroad. Hong Kong was the first stop of its overseas celebrations, followed by Russia, Milan and San Francisco.

2015 年是國酒茅台榮獲 1915 年巴拿馬萬國博覽會金獎 100 周年紀念的一年。茅台作為中國白酒在世界 上的代表，對傳承和推廣中國傳統文化始終不遺餘力。為此，貴州茅台集團從 2014 年 7 月開始，在國內 外舉行一系列主題為「香飄世界百年，相伴民族復興」貴州茅台酒榮獲巴拿馬萬國博覽會金獎 100 周年 的紀念慶典，並選擇香港為本次系列慶典的海外首個出發點，之後相繼在莫斯科、米蘭、三藩市舉行。

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Hong Kong 鬥呎ｸｯ

First Stop: Hong Kong 窶オlluminating Overseas Celebrations The celebration was successfully held in the InterContinental Hong Kong Hotel on August 2015. We built a time tunnel to present the long and glorious history of Moutai by multi-angles. It is also the first large-scale Moutai exhibition in Hong Kong.

As an international metropolis blended with Eastern and Western elements, Hong Kong boasts mature liquor culture environment and has many similarities with Moutai's Western connections and its image of world famous liquor. In Hong Kong, the first stop for globally celebrating Moutai's 100th anniversary of winning the gold award, guests from home and abroad will have a more comprehensive and in-depth understanding of Moutai's culture, history and innovation. Meanwhile, as a brand that witnesses the national revival, through such markets as Hong Kong, Moutai will gain greater achievements, further establish its international image, and create another glorious history.

After one hundred years, Moutai kicked off its Gold Award overseas celebrations in Hong Kong, the "Pearl of the Orient", which captured the participation of many celebrities. Huang Lanfa (Deputy Director of the Liaison Office of the Central People's Government in Hong Kong), Cai Siping (Deputy Commissioner of the Office of the Commissioner of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the PRC in Macau), Wu Jianjun (Director of the Office of the Commissioner of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the PRC in Hong Kong), Huang Qiubin (Deputy Director of the State-owned Assets Supervision and Administration Commission of Guizhou Province), Yuan Renguo (Chairman of Moutai Group), Liu Zili (General Manager of Moutai Group), Ji Keliang (Honorary Chairman of Moutai Group), Wang Li, Wang Chonglin (Deputy General Managers of Kweichow Moutai Co., Ltd. ), and nearly 1,000 celebrities from Hong Kong's business, culture, and media sectors attended the celebrations to witness this historic moment.

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MOUTAI Magazine

The event drew the attention of international and Hong Kong based media, such as Reuters, Bloomberg, Phoenix TV, Ta Kung Pao, Ming Pao, China Daily, Xin Hua News, Sina, Yahoo HK, Tencent, and Orange News. The Ta Kung Pao also interviewed Yuan Renguo, Chairman of Moutai Group and Kweichow Moutai Co., Ltd.

第一站：香港 點燃金獎百年海外慶典之光 2015 年 8 月 20 日，貴州茅台酒榮獲巴拿馬萬國博覽會金獎 100 周年海外慶典第一站在香港洲際酒店成功舉辦。此次活動以茅台的時間感及歷史感 作為主線，打造茅台金獎 100 年時光隧道，多角度、全方位展現國酒茅台的光輝歲月。這也是香港首個大規模的貴州茅台酒歷史文化展覽盛會。 香港作為中西方文化交融的國際化大都市，擁有成熟的酒文化環境，與茅台的西方情緣及國際名酒的形象有共通點。香港作為金獎百年海外慶典的 首站， 茅台能夠讓海內外賓客在此更全面、更新穎地了解茅台的文化、歷史和創新， 這一見證民族復興的品牌也將被提升到新的高度， 進一步樹立國際 形象，締造下一段輝煌。 一百年後的今天，茅台選擇在東方之珠香港拉開了金獎百年海外慶典活動的序幕，向金獎百年致敬。慶典活動現場高朋滿座，香港中聯辦副主任黃 蘭發、駐澳門特派員公署副特派員蔡思平、駐香港特派員公署辦公室主任吳建軍、貴州省國資委副主任黃秋斌、貴州茅台集團董事長袁仁國、總經理劉自力、 名譽董事長季克良、股份公司副總經理王莉、王崇琳以及香港工商界、文化界、傳媒界名人士近千人參加慶典活動，共同見證這一歷史性的時刻。 本次慶典共吸引路透社、彭博新聞社、鳳凰衛視、大公報、明報、中國日報、新華社、中新社、新浪網、雅虎香港、騰訊網（香港）、香港新聞社、 橙新聞等媒體的大量報導。香港大公報對茅台酒集團董事長袁仁國進行大篇幅的獨家專訪。

Initiating at the Gate of Moutai The national liquor gate of Moutai was replicated as a mini one in Hong Kong. Huang Qiubin (Deputy Director of the State-owned Assets Supervision and Administration Commission of Guizhou Province), and Moutai's leaders Yuan Renguo, Liu Zili, Ji Keliang, Wang Li as well as Wang Chonglin attended the ribbon-cutting ceremonies in front of the gate.

國酒門前：揚帆遠航 本次慶典的啟動儀式上，貴州茅台集團的國酒門被複製到了現場。貴州國資委副主任黃秋斌、貴州茅台集團董事長袁仁國、總經理劉自力、名譽董 事長季克良、股份公司副總經理王莉、股份公司副總經理王崇琳在香港慶典特別設計的國酒門前進行了剪彩，為海外慶典拉開了序幕。

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Hong Kong 香港

Fashion Trend: Moutai Cocktails As an innovation of Moutai's international brand image, Moutai cocktail tasting area was specially established and the top three Hong Kong bartenders were invited to blend nine Moutai cocktails and perform for the guests. It caused overwhelming response.

These nine cocktails are Baijiu Tiki, Moutai Eggnog, Moutairnha, La rose d'Occident, Cosmo Moutai, Le Kweichow Moutai, Kweichow le Soir, Moutai Mai-Tai and MW Smash. The most popular ones are Baijiu Tiki, Moutai Eggnog, Moutairnha and La rose d'Occident.

時尚之選：茅台雞尾酒 為展現茅台酒的創新和國際化的形象，本次茅台酒榮獲 巴拿馬萬國博覽會金獎 100 周年海外慶典首站活動特設茅台 雞尾酒試飲區，精心挑選 9 款深受國內外歡迎的茅台雞尾酒， 並特邀 3 位香港頂尖的調酒師現場調製及進行花樣調酒表演， 賓客反應熱烈。 9 款雞尾酒包括：百年之醉（Baijiu Tiki）、 金獎之光 （Moutai Eggnog）、清新茅台（Moutairnha）、海派玫瑰 （La rose d’Occident）、 宇 宙 沁 酷（Cosmo Moutai）、

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Time Channel： A Century's Development A time tunnel was designed at the Entrance staircases showing the 100-year appearance development of Moutai bottles with an eternity atmosphere.

光陰隧道：酒瓶的百年演變

貴州茅台（Le Kweichow Moutai）、貴州之夜（Kweichow

茅台酒榮獲巴拿馬萬國博覽會金獎 100 周年海外慶典展覽特別在入口樓梯位置

le Soir）、 茅 台 賓 治（Moutai Mai-Tai）、 火 熱 茅 台（MW

設計時光隧道，以 1915-2015 年這一百年間茅台酒瓶的演變過程來回顧歷史，感受

Smash）。

時間的流逝與永恆。

MOUTAI Magazine

National Treasure: a Show of Up to 100 Rare Moutai Liquors In the event, many rare Moutai classics, including the Millesimes Moutai Series (80-year, 50-year, 30year, and 15-year) and the 100-Bottle Complete Set were demonstrated for visitors to savor Moutai and the Chinese taste in the mellow aroma.

民族瑰寶：上百件罕見茅台酒品展示 活動展出了不常見的茅台經典之作，包括 80 年、50 年、 30 年、15 年陳年茅台酒系列和 100 瓶大全套等，讓參觀者 在醇香中品味茅台，品味中國味道。

袁仁國及劉自力為獅子點睛

Yuan Renguo and Liu Zili painted the eyes of the lion at the beginning of the celebration banquet.

A Space-time: Moutai Museum In this event, we presented to Hong Kong people Moutai's history and its centurial journey after winning the gold award, including a review to Moutai's history of winning the gold award, Moutai's help to the Long March of the Red Army, how Moutai was designated as the state banquet liquor for the founding ceremony, Moutai Distillery's production evolution at difference periods, Moutai's brewing environment and technique, how Moutai was listed on the A-Share market, Moutai's enterprise responsibility, and Moutai's gorgeous presences on China's diplomatic arena.

百年時空：茅台歷史博物館 本次活動中，我們向香港民眾呈現了茅台的歷史、獲金獎百年的歷程，其中包括茅台獲金獎的歷史追溯，茅台對紅軍長征的助力，茅台作 為開國大典第一宴指定用酒，茅台酒廠生產年代演變，酒品環境工藝，貴州茅台上市和企業責任以及茅台閃耀中國外交舞台等。

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慶典現場：

Hong Kong 香港

Propaganda Film 播放金獎百年宣傳片

Yuan Renguo gave a speech. 袁仁國上台致辭

Celebration host: Liu Fang, the program host of Phoenix TV. 慶典主持、鳳凰衛視主持人

Xu Zidong, the professor of Lingnan University gave a speech.

劉芳登台，介紹領導及嘉賓

香港文化名人演講：香港嶺南大學中文系教授許子東

Huang Qiubin, Deputy Director of the State-owned Assets Supervision and Administration Commission of Guizhou Province, gave a congratulatory address. 貴州省國資委副主任黃秋斌宣讀賀詞

Liu Zili proposed a toast. 劉自力致祝酒辭 40

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The opening ceremony of overseas celebrations of Moutai’s winning the Panama Gold Award. 金獎百年海外慶典啓動儀式

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Moscow 莫斯科

Yuan Renguo gave a speech. 袁仁國致辭

Leaders of Moutai and guests of Russia 茅台領導和俄羅斯嘉賓

Second Stop ：Moscow Gold Award Celebration Toured to Europe

Boris Yuryevich gave a Speech 俄羅斯總統總參季多夫 ·伯里斯 ·尤裡耶維奇致辭

In October 2015, with the theme of "Gold Award for a Century, Enduring Aroma for the World", the overseas celebrations for Moutai's 100th anniversary of winning the Panama gold award was held in the European Hall of Moscow. This was another overseas celebration for Moutai's Panama gold award after the Hong Kong celebration.

In this event, Moutai seized the juncture of China's "Belt and Road" strategic proposal and its 100th anniversary of the Panama gold award, sought to further expand overseas influence and widen the overseas channels, and provided a new reference for China's national brands to "go abroad". Russia representative indicated that Kweichow Moutai was China's well-known enterprise, welcomed Moutai's more development in Russia, expected further development and new breakthroughs in culture and economy between China and Russia, and hoped to have more opportunities of economic and trade cooperation with such national enterprises as Kweichow Moutai.

第二站：莫斯科 金獎百年慶典首入歐洲 2015 年 10 月，茅台金獎百年海外慶典在俄羅斯首都莫斯科歐洲之廳舉辦。這是繼香港站後， 國酒茅台首次踏足歐洲舉行的金獎百年海外紀念活動。 The celebration in Moscow 莫斯科慶典現場

據悉，在海外推出如此高規格的系列品牌慶典活動，不僅是貴州品牌歷史上的第一次，也是中 國白酒業近年來少有的大手筆。此次活動，茅台借助國家「一帶一路」戰略構想和巴拿馬金獎 100 周年的契機，尋求進一步擴大海外影響力，擴寬海外渠道的新機遇，為中國民族品牌「走出去」提 供了新的參考。俄方表示，貴州茅台是中國知名企業，歡迎貴州茅台能在俄羅斯有更多發展，希望 中俄兩國在文化、經濟上能有進一步發展和新的突破，與貴州茅台這樣的民族企業有更多的經貿合 作機會。 俄中友好、和平與發展委員會俄方主席、保護企業家權利總統全權代表，總統總參季多夫 ·伯 里斯 ·尤裡耶維奇，中國駐俄羅斯大使館代辦張霄，俄羅斯外交部發言人紮科哈洛娃 ·馬林娜 ·弗萊 德米洛娃等俄羅斯政界、工商界、文化界、媒體界、俄羅斯酒業協會有關領導及孔子學院代表等知 名人士共 300 人出席了活動。

The celebration in Moscow 莫斯科慶典現場

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MOUTAI Magazine

Milan 米蘭

Yuan Renguo gave a speech 袁仁國致辭 Leaders of Moutai and guests of Italy 茅台領導和意大利嘉賓

Third Stop ：Milan Gold Award Shined at Fashion Capital In October 2015, with the theme of "Gold Award for a Century, Enduring Aroma for the World", the overseas celebrations for Moutai's 100th anniversary of winning the Panama gold award was held in Milan on the occasion of Expo Milano 2015. This was the second stop of Moutai's European trip after the Moscow celebration. The core theme of Expo Milano is "Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life". It reminded us of the stories between Moutai and the world expo.

Yuan Renguo, Chairman of Moutai Group and Kweichow Moutai Co., Ltd. said in his speech that same as the romantic Italy, China was also a romantic country full of Dionysian spirit. "On the occasion of the Milan Expo, we are very proud to share the glories of Moutai's centurial gold award with the Italian people. We hope that this world Expo bouquet full of sincerity will make more contributions to the cultural and economic exchanges between China and Italy, and bring the two people to jointly promote Eurasian cooperation as well as world peace and prosperity."

Live performance at the celebration 慶典的現場表演

第三站：米蘭 金獎閃耀國際時尚之都 一百年後，茅台酒的濃香彌漫在意大利蔚藍的天空。一百年前，正是憑藉這股香氣，讓茅台酒 贏得巴拿馬萬國博覽會金獎，第一次在世界舞台上亮相。10 月，茅台酒榮獲巴拿馬萬國博覽會金獎 100 周年海外慶典活動在意大利米蘭佩羅塔中心舉行。

Moutai cocktails 茅台雞尾酒

這是繼莫斯科慶典活動後，茅台歐洲之行的第二站。今年正值第 42 屆米蘭世博盛會，其主題「滋 養地球，生命的能源」是世博會史上首次以食物為主題，吸引了全世界的關注。茅台與世博的百年 情緣也因此次世博盛會重回公眾視野。 中國駐米蘭領事館總領事王冬，撒丁省副省長 Mario Murru ，撒丁省亞洲中國區主席 Enrico Maria Garau ，上海世博局黨委副書記、副局長陳安傑等政要、商會、意大利中資企業、華僑代表、 文化界、藝術界、媒體界等知名人士和經銷商共 300 餘人出席了活動。 茅台集團董事長袁仁國在致辭中表示，與浪漫的意大利一樣，中國也是一個浪漫和充滿酒精神 的國度，值此米蘭世博會之際，我們非常榮幸能與意大利人民共同分享茅台金獎百年的榮光，希望 這飽含誠意的世博酒香，繼續綿延傳承，為中意兩國文化、經濟交流作出更多貢獻，也為兩國人民 攜手共進，共同推進歐亞合作、世界和平與繁榮添磚加瓦。（陳露露 攝影報道）

The celebration in Milan 米蘭慶典現場

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San Francisco 三藩市

The celebration in San Francisco 三藩市慶典現場

Edwin Mah Lee (Li Mengxian, Mayor of San Francisco) gave a speech. 三藩市市長李孟賢致辭。

Last Stop ：San Francisco Overseas Celebrations Completed in San Francisco, November 12 Proclaimed as MOUTAI DAY in San Francisco In November, the celebrations was held in the San Francisco City Hall built 100 years ago, refreshing the historic memory.

More than 360 people attended the celebrations, including Zha Liyou (Chinese Acting Consul General to San Francisco), Edwin Mah Lee (Li Mengxian, Mayor of San Francisco), and celebrities from the business, culture, art, and media sectors. Moutai Group's Yuan Renguo, Liu Zili, and Ji Keliang as well as Moutai's global distributor representatives attended the celebrations.

Yuan Renguo, Chairman of Moutai Group said in his speech, "The Panama Pacific International Exposition is an important starting point for Moutai's current brilliance. As a Chinese proverb goes, when drinking water, one should never forget those who dug the well.

Today, returning to the place where Moutai won the award 100 years ago, we still seem to be able to smell Moutai's mellow aroma that came from a broken jar and permeated long years.

Therefore, we'd like to say, thank you San Francisco!"

In the ceremony, a congratulatory letter personally issued by Jimmy Carter (important promoter of Sino-US relations and former US President) to Yuan Renguo was read. Carter said in his letter that Moutai Group had set an example. That is, the Chinese enterprises benefiting from stable bilateral relations could play an important role in stabilizing bilateral relations, reducing misunderstanding, and enhancing mutual understanding. Carter had been familiar with Moutai for a long time. In 2005, Carter met with the delegation of Guizhou Provincial Economic and Trade Commission in his hometown Plains, Georgia. Li Baofang, the then deputy director of the Provincial Economic and Trade Commission and the current Party Secretary and General Manager of Moutai Group, specially presented four bottles of Moutai to President Carter. When hearing the introduction of Kweichow Moutai liquor from Li Baofang, Carter said happily, "Moutai, I know. It is very famous!"

Edwin Mah Lee brought a special gift to Moutai: From 2015 on, November 12 served as San Francisco's Kweichow Moutai Day.

第四站：三藩市 重回金獎發源地，三藩市設「茅台日」 11 月，茅台金獎 100 周年海外慶典來到三藩市市政廳舉行，茅台在這座 100 年前建成的建築 裡點燃了世博會的歷史記憶。 中國駐三藩市總領館代總領事查立友、三藩市市長李孟賢以及三藩市工商界、文化界、藝術界、 媒體界等知名人士共 360 餘人出席盛典。茅台集團公司董事長袁仁國、技術顧問劉自力、名譽董事 Zha Liyou (Chinese Acting Consul General to San Francisco) gave a speech. 中國駐三藩市總領館代總領事查立友致辭。

長技術總顧問季克良以及海內外茅台經銷商代表參加慶典。袁仁國致辭：「中國茅台今日的輝煌， 巴拿馬萬國博覽會是一個重要起點。中國有句古話：吃水不忘挖井人。今天，回到茅台百年前獲獎 的地方，我們仿佛還能呼吸到那罐打碎的茅台酒在歲月深處散發的幽幽醇香，我們要衷心地說一句： Thank you San Francisco ！」 慶典上，我們宣讀了中美建交的重要推動者、美國前總統吉米 ·卡特親筆簽發給袁仁國的賀信： 「1978 年，時任中國副總理鄧小平與我決定實現中國與美國關係正常化，決定極大地改變了兩個國 家乃至整個世界。茅台集團樹立了一個榜樣，就是受益於雙邊穩定關係的中國企業，能對實現穩定 兩國關係、減少誤解、增進相互理解發揮重要作用。」他向在三藩市舉行茅台酒榮獲巴拿馬萬國博 覽會金獎的世紀慶典表示祝賀。卡特對茅台酒的熟悉由來已久。2005 年，卡特在其故鄉喬治亞州平 原市會見了貴州省經貿委代表團成員。時任省經貿委副主任，現任集團公司黨委書記、總經理的李 保芳特地向卡特總統贈送了 4 瓶茅台酒，當他向卡特介紹貴州茅台酒時，卡特很高興地說：「茅台酒，

Edwin Mah Lee (Li Mengxian, Mayor of San Francisco) presented the proclamation of “Moutai Day” to Yuan Renguo (Chairman of Moutai Group). 三藩市市長李孟賢代 表加州政府頒發「茅台日」賀狀給茅台集團董事長袁仁國。

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我知道，這是很出名的！」 李孟賢還給貴州茅台酒帶來了一份特別的禮物：將設定 11 月 12 日為三藩市的「茅台日」，並 代表加州政府頒發賀狀。（李浩 攝影報道）

A Perfect Completion Conference for Commemorating Moutai's 100th Anniversary of Winning the Panama Gold Award 紀念茅台酒榮獲巴拿馬博覽會金獎 100 周年大會

S

ince 2014 when Moutai Group initiated at the Shanghai World Expo Garden its 100th anniversary celebrations for winning the Panama Gold Award, various commemorative activities had been carried out at home and abroad. For example, made the movie "National Liquor" and some micro-movies that demonstrated Moutai's development history and culture; created the stage play "Heavenly Aroma" that reflected Moutai's development; looked for 100 representatives closely associated with Moutai; collected "Moutai Memory" old photos; held "Moutai International Poetry Gathering"; organized distributors of Jiangsu, Jiangxi, Shandong, and other provinces and municipalities to carry out the "Centennial Gold Award" celebrations; carried out the activities of "Celebrating Moutai's Centennial Gold Award by Millions of Fans in 100 Cities"; continued carrying out the "Moutai • National Pillar" large-scale learning aid activities; participated in the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles (CMB) Guiyang 2015 Spirits Selection and won two grand gold medals.

On November 20, the Conference for Commemorating Moutai's 100th Anniversary of Winning the Panama Gold Award was held at Moutai Group's conference center. This commemorative conference marked a perfect completion of Moutai's series of commemorative activities that lasted more than a year.

For 100 years, Moutai has won international gold award for 18 times and defended its championships in many Chinese liquor competitions. In recent decades, Moutai were listed in many rankings, such as "Business Week", "Financial Times", and "Forbes"; Moutai were listed in such authoritative rankings as Millward Brown's "Top 100 Most Valuable Global Brands" for many times, even exceeding many global well-established food enterprises.

On September 24 and October 20, "The New York Times" of the United States and the "Financial Times" of Britain respectively published Moutai's full-page advertisement for welcoming Xi Jinping's visit to the United States and Britain. According to related comments, in such short time, through international mainstream media, the wonderful presences of Chinese brands represented

by Kweichow Moutai in important Sino-foreign exchanges indicated that the Chinese brands were continuously growing and were gradually marching towards the global mainstream markets.

自 2014 年茅台集團在上海世博園啟動茅台酒榮獲巴拿馬萬國博覽會金獎 100 周年紀念慶典以來，各種紀念活動相繼在國內外開展。中國 國內拍攝了反映茅台發展史及茅台文化的電影《國酒》以及微電影；編創了反映茅台發展的大型歌舞劇《天香》；尋訪了結緣茅台的百名代表人物； 徵集了「茅台記憶」老照片；舉辦了「茅台國際詩會」；在江蘇、江西、山東等省市區組織經銷商開展了「金獎百年」聯誼活動；開展了「百 城百萬粉絲慶祝茅台金獎百年」活動；繼續開展了「國酒茅台·國之棟樑」大型助學活動；參加了 2015 年比利時布魯塞爾國際烈性酒（貴陽） 大獎賽，茅台斬獲兩塊大金牌。 11 月 20 日，茅台酒榮獲巴拿馬萬國博覽會金獎 100 周年紀念大會在赤水河畔的茅台集團會議中心隆重舉行。這次紀念大會，標誌著國酒 茅台為時一年多的系列紀念活動完美收官。 100 年來，茅台酒先後 18 次榮獲國際金獎，蟬聯中國歷次國家名酒評比之冠。近十多年間，茅台在《商業週刊》、《金融時報》、《福布 斯》等排行榜中，多次入選華通明略全球品牌價值百強企業等權威排行，甚至超過很多全球老牌的食品企業。 2015 年 9 月 24 日和 10 月 20 日，美國《紐約時報》和英國《金融時報》分別出現茅台整版廣告，祝賀習近平主席訪問美國和英國。相關 評價說，短時間內，以貴州茅台為代表的中國品牌兩次借用國際主流媒體渠道，在中外交往的重要活動中亮相發聲，是中國品牌不斷成長、逐 步走向世界主流市場的重要體現。

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Moutai and China's Century Professor Xu Zidong's View of Moutai

茅 台 与中 國的 百年 許子東教授談茅台 TEXT / 文：Xu Zidong TRANSLATION / 譯： Billy Yung

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In the inauguration of overseas celebrations for Moutai's 100th Anniversary of Winning the Panama Gold Award, Hong Kong celebrity, professor Xu Zidong gave a speech. Xu Zidong was born in a literary family in Shanghai. He was previously the Associate Professor of East China Normal University and University of Hong Kong, Visiting Scholar of University of Chicago, the Dean of Department of Chinese Language and Literature in Lingnan University of Hong Kong. He is still teaching in Lingnan University. In China, most people are familiar with his well combination of academic and daily life in Phoenix TV's popular program "Qiang Qiang" talk show. 貴州茅台酒在香港啟動了其榮獲巴拿馬萬國博覽會金獎百年海外慶典的首站。香港知名文化人許子東在 本次慶典中談了談他眼中的茅台。許子東出生於上海的書香世家，他曾任華東師範大學中文系副教授， 香港大學、芝加哥大學的客座研究員以及香港嶺南大學中文系主任。他現在依然任嶺南大學中文系教授， 最為人民熟悉的是他在鳳凰衛視皇牌節目「鏘鏘三人行」中任嘉賓主持、把學術融入日常話題的評論。

T

here are some coincidences when speaking in Hong Kong Moutai's world-renowned and centurial fragrance. Moutai features "fragrant", that is, "transparent, clear, and mellow, with prominent Jiang fragrance and long aftertaste...." Similarly, Hong Kong (literally translated as "Fragrant Harbor") is also known for "fragrant". Besides, at the moment we are in a "Hotel". In Chinese, "Hotel" has at least three corresponding names. It is called "lv dian" (literally translated as "guest-house") traditionally and "fan dian" (restaurant) in Beijing and Shanghai.

However, in Hong Kong, it is called "jiu dian" (liquor shop).... "Lv dian" focuses on sleeping, "fan dian" focuses on eating, while "jiu dian" focuses on liquor, intoxication, and dream. The desire for sleeping and eating is

just part of human nature as well as animal nature. Only the desire for liquor is beyond the realm of human nature. Therefore, it is significant to talk about liquor fragrance and Moutai culture in Hong Kong's hotel.

With a long history of thousands of years, Moutai is originated from Qin and Han Dynasties, matured in Tang and Song Dynasties, and improved in Ming and Qing Dynasties. It was said that as early as 135 BC, the "Jujiang" liquor (predecessor of Moutai) produced around the current Moutai Town had been chosen as an imperial tribute by Emperor Wu of Han. However, it was since the 1915 Panama Pacific International Exposition that Moutai had shared the title of "World's Top Three Distilled Liquors" with French Cognac brandy and Scotch whisky. This story has several versions, such

as "revitalizing national prestige by wisely dropping a Moutai jar". Here is the version I know. At that time, Moutai liquor was kept in tawny pottery jars, exhibited in the agriculture hall together with cotton, linen, soybean, and other agricultural products, and neglected by most visitors at the beginning.

Therefore, someone suggested moving Moutai to the food exhibition hall. When moving the liquor, a Chinese representative accidentally pushed a Moutai jar over. Immediately, the aroma permeated the air——History is often changed by accident (however, accident, according to Plekhanov, "appears only at the point of intersection of inevitable processes").

Chen Qi, director of the Chinese delegation, immediately instructed not to move the liquor but to open the liquor bottles and liquor jars. As a result, the situation changed

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dramatically and Moutai won a gold award.

Therefore, good liquor needs no bush but just a push. 100 years have passed and Moutai has witnessed Red Army's four crossings of the Chishui River at the most critical moment of the Chinese revolution; Moutai has participated in numerous state banquets in the Great Hall and entered the international arena as China's "national card"; Moutai has also entered people's daily life, and more importantly, entered people's spiritual life....

Then, what social, political, and cultural roles Moutai are playing in today's China? Simply put, firstly, of course, Moutai is a treasure that can be invested. Many of you are experts in this respect and I need not mention much.

Secondly, Moutai helps to harmonize family life and even helps to govern the country. More specifically, Moutai is effective for the communication between people. Chinese culture emphasizes" äť " (benevolence), a pictographic character meaning that "benevolence" makes sense only with at least two people. Similarly, when drinking liquor, more people would be better, just as the saying goes, "one person does not make a happy drinking".

When family members and relatives dine together, without liquor, their topics would be house, work, homework, and bill only.

However, with drinking, they will come to a warm and harmonious family atmosphere.

At the party of merchants and politicians, without liquor, they see interest, conflict, and dispute only; with liquor, they see friends.

Different liquors have the same function, that is, promote communication and friendship; however, the grade of liquor sometimes decides the taste of family and friendship.

If foreigners want to understand the contemporary China's keyword "relationship", they'd better know Moutai (you know the drill). If they want to understand China's diplomacy, they must drink Moutai first.

Thirdly, the incomes of today's intellectuals are not necessarily high, but their demands are still high. They like Moutai best and seek to "harmonize family life and govern the country". The ancient intellectuals, however, sought to "cultivate their moral character". Lu Xun once mentioned the WeiJin Style of such scholars as Liu Ling and Ji Kang; he believed that they used liquor

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If they want to understand China's diplomacy, they must drink Moutai first.

to reject instead of promote interpersonal communication; they expressed that "all people were sober but they alone were drunk". Du Fu wrote in his poem, "Li Bai drinks a gallon of liquor, writes 100 poems, and then sleeps it off in a liquor shop of Chang'an. When the emperor asked him to board the royal barge, he disobeyed and shouted back, I am a drunken immortal." The West has Dionysus who emphasizes carnival, whereas China has liquor immortal who focuses on dreaming. When I was young I liked these words: "When hopes are won, Oh! Drink your fill in high delight, and never leave your liquor-cup empty in moonlight. Since heaven gave the talent, let it be employed! After spending thousands of taels, all of them (do not) come back!"

Through the ages, the reason why so many people "want to get drunk and never to wake" is because of liquor, especially Moutai, which leads people into another realm of life (a realm that surpasses "lv dian" and "fan dian", that is, the realm of Chinese Dream).

Fourthly, besides, beyond, or before cultivating moral characters, harmonizing family life and governing the country, Chinese liquor culture has a very important tradition, that is "winning respect from the world" (international reputation and global markets) as well as "respecting the world and worshipping ancestors". In the most important occasions, the liquor offered must be the noblest. Today, at the moment after this country suffered so many tribulations and is step by step realizing its prosperity and dream, I particularly want to mention one person, a person closely related to Moutai and a person contributing greatly to Moutai culture. He is, Zhou Enlai.

It is said that in 1935 when the Red Army trudged to Renhuai, the Moutai liquor cured the Red Army soldiers and greatly boosted their morale. Therefore, Zhou Enlai specially issued a general command in the name of the General Political Department to protect the Moutai liquor. In 1949, Zhou Enlai designated Moutai as the main liquor for the founding feast. At the Bandung Conference in 1954, Zhou Enlai strongly recommended "Two Tai" (Moutai and the drama "Liang Shanbo and Zhu Yingtai") to friends around the world....Today, Moutai accounts for 80% of the total export of Chinese liquors and wins many international awards. Together with China's

national power, Moutai's reputation is getting better and better. At this moment, I still remember clearly that in the 1974 National Day gala, Premier Zhou's speech made all conventioneers stand up to applaud for a long

time. This was the first time for a Chinese leader to propose the "Four Modernizations" policy. Since then, the GDP has increased from 280 billion RMB at that time to today's more than 50 trillion RMB. In these great changes

we have witnessed, what remains unchanged is Zhou Enlai's belief and wish as well as Moutai's aroma. This liquor is aromatic but not overpowering, with long-lasting fragrance lingering in the glass and on your palate.

外國人要理解中國的外交，則必須先喝茅台。

在香港講茅台百年香飄世界，有些巧

茅台見證了紅軍幾渡赤水，那是中國革命最

子 : 人生得意須盡歡，莫使金樽空對月；天

合：不僅因為茅台的特點就是「香」，醬香

危急的一個時刻；茅台參加了人民大會堂

生我材必有用，千金散盡還複來（回不來）。

突出，酒體醇厚，清亮透明，回味悠長 ; 而

的無數國宴，作為「國家名片」進入國際舞

為什麼古往今來，這麼多人「但願長醉不願

香港，也號稱「香」——還因為，此刻我們

台；茅台也走進了國人的日常生活，並且更

醒」，就是因為酒，尤其是茅台，讓人進入

身處一個 Hotel，Hotel 在英法德意及拉丁文

重要的是，融入了世人的精神生活。

另一個人生境界（旅店、飯店之上的境界，

中都是一個詞，在中文裡卻至少有三個說 法：傳統上叫「旅店」，京滬城市裡叫「飯

我在想，今天在中國，茅台承擔著什麼

中國夢的境界）。

社會政治文化功能？

最後第四，在修身、齊家、治國之外，

店」，香港則稱之為「酒店」——語言是各種

簡單說，第一，當然，茅台是一種財

或之上，或之初，中國酒文化還有一個極重

社會經濟政治現象的結晶，請注意，旅店重

富，可以投資。這一點在座很多專家都知

要的傳統，既是「平天下」 （國際聲譽與全球

點是睡，飯店重點是食，酒店重點是酒，是

道，不必我多說。

市場），而且還有「敬天下，祭先人」。在最

醉，是夢。原來食色（不分先後）是人性也

第二，茅台有助於齊家甚至治國。更具

重要的場合，必須最高貴的酒。今天，在這

是動物性，唯有「杜康」，才是人性中的超

體說，茅台有效溝通人與人之間的關係。中

個國家飽經磨難現在終於可以一步步走向繁

越境界。酒是否也是人與動物的區別之一？

國文化強調「仁」，象形上兩個人才是「仁」。

榮美夢之際，我特別想提到一個人，一個和

這事當然有待考證，但至少，說明在香港的

俗話說，一個人不喝酒，兩個人不賭錢，三

茅台有密切關係的人，一個對茅台文化有重

酒店講茅台文化講酒的香味，很有些特別的

個人……家人親戚一桌，沒酒大家想的都是

大貢獻的人，他就是周恩來。

意義。

房子工作功課帳單，喝酒才進入溫暖融和親

據說，1935 年紅軍長征進入仁懷，紅

雖然茅台有著數千年的悠久歷史，起

情氣氛。商家政要聚會，沒酒只見利害矛盾

軍將士曾用茅台酒療傷養病，士氣大振。周

于秦漢，熟于唐宋，精於明清，一說在西元

人事恩怨，有酒才見到「都是自己人」。兩

恩來還以總政治部名義下發《關於保護茅台

前百年茅台出產的「枸醬」就被漢武帝定為

肋插刀我沒見過，為朋友幾瓶醉倒卻是常

酒的通令》。1949 年，周恩來指定開國第一

貢品，但真正與法國科涅克白蘭地、蘇格蘭

見。當然，同樣溝通你我澆灌友誼，什麼檔

宴所用主酒為茅台酒。1954 年萬隆會議，

威士忌並列世界三大蒸餾酒，還是要講到

次的酒有時便決定了親情友誼的品位。外國

周恩來向世界各國朋友大力推薦「二台」 （茅

1915 年巴拿馬萬國博覽會。這個故事，有

人要研究當代中國的關鍵詞「關係」，最好

台與「梁山伯祝英台」）……今天，茅台占中

幾個不同說法，有說「智擲酒瓶振國威」，

懂得茅台（你懂的）。外國人要理解中國的

國白酒出口總量 80%，在國際上屢獲大獎，

有說「怒擲酒瓶巴拿馬」。我所看到的一個

外交，則必須先喝茅台。

茅台聲譽與國家實力一樣步入佳境。在這

版本，說當時茅台是裝在深褐色陶罐裡，與

第三，今天文化人，收入不一定高，眼

綿、麻、大豆等農產品放在一起在農業館展

界還是高，飲酒最好茅台，念念不忘「齊家

周總理非常削瘦充滿病容的形象，卻令當年

出，開始沒什麼人注意。有人建議搬去食品

治國」，但古代文人一醉，卻先求「修身」。

與會者長時間站立鼓掌！這是中國領導人第

館，但在搬酒時有位代表不慎失手，酒罐掉

魯迅專論過魏晉風度，劉伶嵇康等，不是以

一次提出「四個現代化」的國策。從那時起，

地酒香四溢——歷史常常困為偶然事件而改

酒溝通人際關係，而是借酒拒絕人際關係，

GDP 是 2800 億（人民幣），現在是五十多萬

變（但偶然，按普列漢諾夫的說法，又常是

「世人皆醉我獨醒」的表現方式，卻是世人

億。在這我們都有幸經歷的巨大變化中，不

多種必然性的交叉點），中國館負責人陳琪

皆醒我獨醉。杜甫說：「白一鬥詩百篇，長

變的，是周恩來的信念心願；不變的，也是

當即指示不必搬館，只需打開酒瓶陶罐。從

安市上酒家眠。天子呼來不上船，自稱臣

茅台的酒香。據說這酒，香而不豔，空杯留

此局面大變，榮獲金獎。這就叫「酒香不怕

是酒中仙。」西方有酒神，強調狂歡；中國

香。

巷子深，只要瓶罐肯犧牲」。一百年過去了，

有酒仙，意在做夢。我年輕時最喜歡的句

個時候，我怎麼也忘不了 1974 年國慶晚會，

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If Our Language is Whisky 如果我們的語言是威士忌 TEXT / 文： Jocelyn Liao TRANSLATION / 譯 ： Grace Liu

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Scotch whisky, French Cognac brandy and China's Moutai are the top three distilled liquors in the world. The original meaning of whisky is "the water of life". Scotch whisky has dominated the market for years. But recently the situation is being changed, as Japan’s whisky becomes more and more popular. In this article, we will review the history of whisky and analyze the reasons of Japanese and Taiwan whisky’s rush. 世界三大蒸餾酒分別是蘇格蘭威士忌、法國科克捏白蘭地和中國的茅台酒。威士忌本意是 「生命之水」，最知名的非蘇格蘭的威士忌莫屬，但近年來日本和台灣威士忌異軍突起，究 竟是什麼原因呢？本文將帶您回顧威士忌的發展歷史，分析日本和台灣威士忌成名的因素。

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S

cotch whisky, French Cognac brandy arose from epidemic. The "distiller" from the Islamic community was spread to Egypt and North Africa. Then, through the Iberian Peninsula ruled

by Muslims, it was spread to Europe. The distiller gave birth to new distilled liquor all because of a deadly and infectious plague called "Black Death" that caused great panic in late 14th century. Due to the Black Death spread from Central Asia, the frightened Europeans started to look for the "water of life" that originally meant alcohol. At the early stage when people just discovered the distillation technique, they did not quite understand the principles of this technique. They mistakenly thought that alcohol was a kind of essence extracted from grains (or a product from the fermentation of malted barley: beer), just like the spirit that was regarded as the essence of life inside people. That was why the distilled liquor was called "spirit" in the West.

The name whisky derived from "uisge beatha" (water of life) in the Gaelic language, which was originally from the Latin words "aqua vitae". Its birthplace is Ireland. Known as the "Emerald Isle", Ireland had already used the distiller to brew "aqua vitae" before the pandemic Black Death of the 14th century. The Irish people had been drinking distilled barley beer before 1172 when England's Henry II and his army attacked Ireland. They believed that whisky was originated from Ireland's patron saint St. Patrick who actively preached in the 5th century. He also actively promoted the distillation technique and created "usquebaugh".

According to time deduction, it is somewhat far-fetched to link St. Patrick with the distillation technique; however, it seems reasonable to believe that whisky brewing was embarked by the cenobite with knowledge of

alchemy.

The making method of Scotch whisky originated from the neighboring Ireland. Some believed that Scotch whisky was created during the military expedition of England's Henry II to Ireland in late 11th century. The rich and aromatic Scotch whisky is attributed to Scotland's outstanding water quality and the barley dried by burning peat (or dry peat). A Scottish document of 1494 recorded: "eight bolls (about 1,200 kg) of malt (malt barley) to Friar John Corwherewith to make aqua vitae".

In 1707, Scotland was merged with England and England's high malt taxes were also imposed in Scotland. As a result, Scotland's liquor tax was 14 times higher than before. To evade taxes, Scotland's brewers began with moonshine (distilled spirit produced illicitly). In mountains, they used the malt dried by the sun or burning peat and used the mental container called "pot still". With the front end twisted into the shape of swan neck, this container was a small and unique distiller exclusively designed to secretly brew whisky. To evade tax officials' discovery, people placed this privately produced whisky in the empty bottles of such liquors as sherry. Surprisingly, the liquor became the tastier and mature whisky that had an amber color and the aromas of cherry and wooden bottle. All these measures originally used for tax evasion unexpectedly resulted in this unique whisky taste.

Until today, the name "moonshine" or "mountain dew" is still used for privately produced liquor and we can still imagine how Scotch whisky came from at that time. Currently, Scotch whisky falls into three basic categories: single malt Scotch whisky (malt whisky from a single

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distillery), pure malt whisky (a blend of two or more single malt Scotch whiskies from different distilleries), and blended Scotch whisky (a blend of one or more single malt Scotch whiskies with one or more single grain whiskies).

Japanese Whisky Rising to Fame The world's major whiskies include Irish whisky, Scotch whisky, American Bourbon whisky, and Japanese whisky. In recent years, Japanese whiskies are becoming more popular than Scotch whiskies across the world. In 2008, for the first time, Japanese whisky "Yoichi 20 Year Old" beat Scotch whisky and was voted the best single malt whisky at the World Whiskies Awards. After that, Yamazaki, Taketsuru, and Hibiki won numerous international awards. Since then, the Japanese whisky has been attracting more and more global attention. "Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2013" of Japan's liquor giant Suntory was ranked top in Jim Murray's "Whisky Bible 2015".

The Japanese whisky history is less than 100 years. The first whisky seen in Japan could be traced back to the historic event "Perry Expedition" in 1853 when the American warships led by Commodore Perry landed in Japan and forced Japan to open their ports to America.

Subsequently, as an "exotic" good, whisky became fashionable. However, Japan's earliest "native whisky" was only an imitation blended from alcohol, pigment, and spices.

In 1923, Shinjiro Torii, the founder of "Kotobukiya" (predecessor of Suntory), saw the business opportunities of whisky. In southwest Kyoto, he started to build Japan's first whisky distillery——Yamazaki Distillery, and appointed Masataka Taketsuru, who once studied whisky's making technology in Scotland, as the distillery director.

In 1924, the Yamazaki Distillery was established. In 1929, Japan's first authentic whisky "Shirofuda" (white label) was created. However, the traditional Scottish distillation techniques left the whisky with strong smoky taste, which made it unpopular in Japan. Shinjiro Torii thus believed that there were differences between Asians and Westerners on the palate preferences. He preferred to develop the Oriental flavor whisky. As a result, his relations with Taketsuru ended up soured because of their acute differences in opinion.

In 1934, Taketsuru established his own company (Nikka) and the Yoichi Distillery in Yoichi, Hokkaido, where the climate and terrain are similar to Scotland. In 1939, his company's first product "Nikka Whisky" was born.

In 1937, Suntory launched the Kakubin (square bottle) Whisky and

was well received by the market.

In 1969, Nikka established the Miyagikyo Distillery in northwest of

Miyagi's Sendai.

In 1973, Suntory established the Hakushu Distillery in Yamanashi Prefecture.

Japanese Whisky Gained in Popularity Renowned Japanese writer Haruki Murakami wrote in his book "If Our Language Were Whisky": "It would be much easier if our language were whisky. The only thing I should do is to hand out the glasses and you drink it." Written by Murakami based on his traveling with his wife in Scotland's Islay, the book was enthusiastically echoed by whisky

enthusiasts. However, no one knew that Murakami's whisky tour was actually sponsored by the Japanese liquor giant Suntory. Since 10 years ago, Suntory has started to promote the brand awareness of Japanese whisky through blind advertising. The company is best known for the commercial that Bill Murray's character recorded in the movie "Lost in Translation", which featured the slogan: "For relaxing times, make it Suntory time." The advertising appeared as many times as the actor retook.

In 2014, in a deal announced to buy Beam Inc. for $13.6 billion (about 82.2 billion RMB), Suntory struck one of the biggest takeovers in the liquor business in years, transforming itself into the world's third-largest distillery. Jim Beam and Maker's Mark are the most iconic whisky brands of Beam Inc. In recent years, Suntory has been expanding aggressively overseas to counteract a shrinking market at home in Japan. Its subsidiary, Suntory Beverage & Food, controls the European drink company Orangina Schweppes, and last year bought the Lucozade and Ribena brands from GlaxoSmithKline for $2.1 billion.

At present, there are eight whisky distilleries in Japan. Suntory has Yamazaki and Hakushu, both of which mainly produce blended whiskies. Nikka, Suntory's biggest rival, has Yoichi and Miyagikyo, with Taketsuru as its most iconic blended whisky. Kirin has Karuizawa and Fuji-Gotemba. However, only Fuji-Gotemba is left as their sole remaining source of whisky after Karuizawa is closed down. The others are Chichibu, Shinshu, and White Oak from Eigashima.

"Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2013" rated top in the "Whisky Bible", scoring 97.5 marks out of 100. The critic's comment is "thick, dry, and as rounded as a snooker ball". "The Daily Telegraph" of London quoted Jim Murray's comment "near indescribable genius", with a "nose of exquisite boldness" and a finish of "light, teasing spice". This year marks the first time in the book's 12-year history that a Japanese whisky has landed the title, and this time not a single Scotch managed to make the final five shortlists. Currently, only 16,000 bottles of this rewarded drink have been made. At the time of Suntory's success, the group is proposing the price increase of Yamazaki and Hakushu by 20% to 25%, and the new price will take effect from April 2015.

Hot Upstart: Taiwan Kavalan The distillery is named after the Kavalan people, indigenous natives who originally inhabited the Kabalan Plain of modern-day Yilan County. The distillery was completed in December 2005, produced its first spirit in March 2006, and released its first bottling in December 2008.

Soon afterwards, in January 2010, one of the distillery's products caused a stir by beating three Scotch whiskies and one English whisky in a blind tasting organized in Leith, Scotland, to celebrate Burns Night.

The distillery has since been named by Whisky Magazine as the World Icons of Whisky "Whisky Visitor Attraction of the Year" for 2011, and its products have won several other awards.

In 2012, Kavalan’s Solist Fino Sherry Cask malt whisky was named "new whisky of the year" by Jim Murray in his guide, Jim Murray’s "Whisky Bible".

In 2015, Kavalan's Vinho Barrique expression was named the world's best single malt whisky by World Whiskies Awards.

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蘇格蘭威士忌、法國科涅克白蘭地這 兩款蒸餾酒的起因竟然是由於傳染病。來自 伊斯蘭圈的「蒸餾器」當時傳至埃及、北非， 再經由伊斯蘭教徒統治下的伊比利亞半島去 到歐洲。蒸餾器促使歐洲發展出嶄新的蒸餾 酒，全是因為西元十四世紀後期引發大恐慌 令人足以致死的傳染病黑死病。經由中亞傳 至歐洲的黑死病，讓歐洲人深感恐懼因而尋 求「生命之水」。 「生命之水」最初的意義就 是酒精。早期的人類在剛發現蒸餾術時，並 不是非常瞭解這種新技術本身的原理，因此 他們誤以為酒精是種從穀物（或是穀物溶水 形成的麥汁在發酵後的產物：啤酒）裡面提 煉出來的精髓，一如人的身體裡面藏有靈 魂、靈魂是生命的精髓。因此，經過蒸餾 之後產生、中文裡稱為「烈酒」的這種酒類， 會在西方被稱為「靈魂」 （Spirits）。 而威士忌的名稱則源自蓋爾語裡的 「uisge beatha」 （生命之水），最初取自拉丁 語的「aqua vitae」 （生命之水），它的發源地 是愛爾蘭。擁有「綠寶石之島」之稱的愛爾 蘭，在黑死病大流行以前的西元十四世紀已 有了蒸餾器，並開啟「aqua vitae」 （生命之 水）的釀造。西元 1172 年英格蘭的亨利二 世率領大軍進攻愛爾蘭時，愛爾蘭人已喝著 蒸餾過的大麥釀造啤酒。但愛爾蘭人認為威 士忌的由來，是西元五世紀致力佈道的愛爾 蘭守護聖人聖派翠克，積極推廣蒸餾法，因 而製造了「usquebaugh」。就時間的推演看 來，聖派翠克與蒸餾法的連結是有些牽強， 不過，擁有煉金術知識的修道士著手於威士 忌的釀造卻是合理的推論。 而蘇格蘭威士忌的製造法是源自鄰島的 愛爾蘭。傳播上有一說指其起始於西元十一 世紀後期英格蘭亨利二世遠征愛爾蘭之際。 蘇格蘭的清澈水質，加上使用泥煤炭（草 炭、乾燥泥炭）乾燥麥芽，因而得以釀造出 帶有濃郁且芳香的威士忌。西元 1494 年的 蘇格蘭公文記載，「八箱（約一千兩百公斤） 的麥芽（發芽的穀物）發予修道士約翰 ．柯 爾，以釀造生命之水。」 西元 1707 年，蘇格蘭遭英格蘭合併， 當時英格蘭徵收的高額麥芽稅，也轉而對向 蘇格蘭。因此，蘇格蘭所課的酒稅一舉調漲 到十五倍之多。為了逃稅，蘇格蘭的釀造業 者開始著手私釀酒。他們混入深山裡，以日 曬乾燥麥芽，或為掩人耳目在山中燃燒草炭 以乾燥麥芽，並使用名為「pot still」的金屬 罐子。那種罐子的前端扭絞成天鵝脖子般的

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Japan Whisky 日本威士忌

細長狀，是造型蜿蜒獨特的小型蒸餾器，專 門用來秘密釀造威士忌。又為逃避稅務官員 的追查，這些私釀生產的威士忌被放在雪利 酒等的空酒樽裡。沒想到卻因而變成帶有琥 珀色的熟成威士忌，而且還多了雪利酒與木 樽的芳香，風味更好。原本為逃避查稅的種 種行徑，最後卻無心插柳釀造。 直 至 今 日 ， 私 釀 酒 仍 稱 為「 m o o n shine」 （ 月光）或「mountain dew」 （ 山之 露），不難理解蘇格蘭威士忌誕生當時的情 況。威士忌目前一般分為三種：單一麥芽的 蘇格蘭威士忌，由單一蒸餾廠所生產的麥芽 威士忌所調製而成；純麥芽威士忌：由不同 蒸餾廠所生產的麥芽威士忌所調製而成；調 和威士忌，由麥芽威士忌與其他穀物的蒸餾 酒所調製而成。

名聲大起的日本威士忌 目前，世界幾大威士忌包括愛爾蘭威士 忌、蘇格蘭威士忌、美國波本威士忌及日本 威士忌。尤其是日本威士忌在近幾年來風頭 直蓋蘇格蘭威士忌。2008 年，日本品牌余 市（Yoichi）20 年單一純麥威士忌奪得世界 威士忌大獎（World Whiskies Awards），首 次打敗蘇格蘭。其後還有山崎（Yamazaki）、 竹鶴（Taketsuru）、響（Hibiki）等持續獲得 多個國際獎項。自此，全球目光開始關注較 冷門的日本威士忌。英國著名的威士忌評論 家吉姆 ·穆雷（Jim Murray）的《威士忌聖 經》 （2015） （Whisky Bible2015）排名第一 位的是日本酒業巨頭三得利旗下山崎 Sherry Cask2013 年版。 日本釀造威士忌歷史距今短短不足 100 年。日本人首次接觸威士忌，要上溯到 1853 年的「黑船來航」，美國海軍東印度艦 隊司令員佩里率軍艦抵達日本，日本被迫 開國。隨後，威士忌作為「舶來品」，開始 成為時髦商品，但日本最早期的「國產威士 忌」，只是以食用酒精、色素、香料等調配 而成的仿製品。 1 9 2 3 年 ，「 壽 屋 」， 現 三 得 利 （Suntory）創辦人鳥井信治郎洞察到釀造威 士忌商機，開始在京都西南方建立日本第一 家威士忌釀造廠——山崎蒸餾所，並邀請曾 到蘇格蘭學習威士忌釀造技術的竹鶴政孝任 廠長。 1924 年，山崎蒸餾廠完工，1929 年， 第一支日本國產威士忌「白札」誕生。但來

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自傳統蘇格蘭技法釀造的新酒具有濃重的煙

靜地送入喉嚨即可。」這是村上春樹和夫人

薰味，日本消費者對此難以接受，鳥井信治

漫遊蘇格蘭艾雷島（Islay）上的見聞，寫成

郎由此認為，東方人與西方人存在先天口感

遊記，引起了威士忌愛好者的共鳴。殊不知

喜好上的差異，主張生產配合東方人口味的

這背後站著三得利這一日本酒業巨頭，村上

威士忌，與堅持蘇格蘭風格的竹鶴漸生分

春樹的這趟威士忌產地之旅也得益於三得利

歧，兩人終因理念不合分道揚鑣。

的贊助。10 多年前起，三得利就開始通過

1934 年，竹鶴選擇在氣候及地理環境

軟宣傳，廣泛打造日本威士忌的知名度，最

與蘇格蘭相近的北海 Nikka Whisky 道余市

為人知的是它在電影《迷失東京》 （Lost in

町創立「大日本果汁株式會社」 （ 現 Nikka）

Translation）中植入廣告，電影中男主角比

並建立余市蒸餾所。1939 年，第一號產品

爾·莫瑞（Bill Murray）所扮演的角色錄製

「日果威士忌」 （Nikka Whisky）面市。 1937 年，三得利推出「角瓶」威士忌， 大受市場歡迎。 1969 年，Nikka 在宮城縣仙台市西北建 立宮城峽蒸餾所。 1973 年，三得利在山梨縣白州町建立 白州蒸餾所。

一部商業廣告，廣告詞是：「閑暇時間，盡 享三得利。」片中男主角 NG 多少次，觀眾就 要看多少遍這一廣告。 2014 年，三得利公司（Suntory）宣 布 將 以 1 3 6 億 美 元（ 約 合 8 2 2 億 元 人 民 幣）的價格收購知名酒公司 Beam 股份有 限公司，由此成為全球第三大蒸餾廠，這 是數年來酒類行業中最大的收購案之一。

日本威士忌宣傳得利 UPSIDE:

Kavalan Single Malt Whisky Fino Sherry Cast 台灣噶瑪蘭單一麥芽雪莉桶威士忌原酒

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Beam 旗下有占邊威士忌 (Jim Beam)、美 格 (Maker's Mark) 等最具代表性的威士忌

日本著名作家村上春樹的有一部作品

品牌。近年來，三得利一直在積極地將它

叫《如果我們的語言是威士忌》，其中他寫

的市場延展至海外，以彌補逐漸萎縮的日

道：「如果我們的語言是威士忌，就無需那

本市場。它的子公司三得利飲料食品公司

麼麻煩。我只需默默遞出酒杯，你接過去安

（Suntory Beverage & Food）控制了歐洲

UPSIDE:

飲料公司 Orangina Schweppes，並於去

The Factory of Taiwan Kavalan Single Malt Whisky 台灣噶瑪蘭威士忌酒廠

2015 年 4 月起加價 20 至 25%。

年以約 21 億美元從英國藥業巨頭葛蘭素史 克（GlaxoSmithKline）手中收購了葡萄適 （Lucozade）和利賓納（Ribena）品牌。

一滴新酒，噶瑪蘭酒廠也是台灣第一座威士忌 酒廠。

威士忌新貴：台灣噶瑪蘭

金 車 宜 蘭 威 士 忌 酒 廠 的「 噶 瑪 蘭 威 士 忌」 （ 噶瑪蘭經典獨奏 Vinho 葡萄酒桶威士忌 ,

現時日本有八家威士忌蒸餾廠，三得利

Kavalan 噶瑪蘭是台灣宜蘭的舊稱，亞熱

Kavalan Solist Vinho Barrique Single Cask

有兩家，分別是山崎和白州，響是主力調合

帶季風氣候和附近古雪山山脈早就樂這裏的環

Strength）代表台灣地區於「2015 年世界威士

型品牌。最大對手是 Nikka，旗下亦有兩家

境，也成為了台灣地區第一支自行磨碎、糖

忌大獎」競賽獲選為「世界最佳單一麥芽威士

蒸餾廠，分別是余市和宮城峽，主力調合型

化、發酵、蒸餾、熟成、調配的威士忌，金

忌」，首席調酒師張郁嵐榮獲 WWA2015 全球

品牌是竹鶴。麒麟關閉輕井澤之後剩下富士

車噶瑪蘭威士忌背後是台灣知名的金車集團支

年度最佳首席釀酒師，並獲時代雜誌（Time）

御殿場，另外就是秩父、信州和 Eigashima

持，2002 年開始規劃酒廠，2006 年蒸餾出第

專文介紹台灣地區宜蘭縣的酒廠。

的 White Oak。 山崎單一麥芽威士忌 Sherry Cask 2013 在《威士忌聖經》的評比中，以 97.5 分的成 績奪冠（滿分 100 分），評委的評價是「濃 郁、乾爽，圓潤得就像個桌球一樣。」倫敦 的《每日電訊報》引述《威士忌聖經》吉姆· 穆雷對該威士忌評價 :「 幾乎無法形容的天 才味道」、「獨到顯著的芳香」加上「清爽又 挑逗性的香料」回味。這是《威士忌聖經》 12 年曆史以來，第一次有日本威士忌奪冠。 這次，沒有一個蘇格蘭威士忌進入前五。奪 下桂冠的山崎威士忌目前只生產了 16,000 瓶。三得利部署登上冠軍，其實該集團也 同時在謀劃加價，山崎、白州、響均會由

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LAND OF HOPE 希望的田野

The China Pavilion in the Milan Expo 2015 EDITOR / 編輯：Jocelyn Liao IMAGE / 圖： China Pavilion of Milan Expo 2015

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FOOD FOR LIFE 生命的源泉

The Expo Milano is a new registered international exposition after the 2010 Shanghai Expo.

A total of 148 countries and international organizations have confirmed their participation, with 55 self-built pavilions. The core theme is “Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life”. It means “being able to guarantee healthy, safe and sufficient food for everyone, while respecting the Planet and its equilibrium”. The China Pavilion is in the center of Expo Milano 2015, covering 4,590 square meters, the second largest foreign pavilion at the Expo. There are two corporate pavilions – China Corporate United and Vanke – joining the Expo as part of the China Pavilion.

2015 年米蘭世博會是繼 2010 年上海世博會之後新 一屆註冊類世博會，共有 148 個國家和國際組織參展， 其中 55 個自建國家館。本屆世博會以「滋養地球，生 命能源」為主題，聚焦農業、糧食和食品，有 148 個國家 和國際組織參展。作為上一屆世博會的東道主，中國本次的 主題是「希望的田野，生命的源泉」。此次中國館由中國國家館、 中國企業聯合館和萬科館組成，佔地面積 4590 平米，是總體參展規 模最大的參展國之一。

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Photographer：Fang Wei

The China Pavilion theme is "Land of Hope, Food for Life", as a sign of the efforts of the Chinese people to use resources effectively, ensure food security and provide a sufficient and healthy food supply. "Land" is the source of food and human life while "Hope" refers to expectations and wishes, so "Food for life" represents the close relationship between food and humans.

The overlapping pattern of the Logo suggests a harmonious coexistence for all of creation, with the blue representing the sky, the green representing the land, the gold standing for food, and the red for people and life.

The Mascots of China Pavilion are "Hehe" and "Mengmeng", borrowed from Huishan earthen figurines, intangible part of China’ s cultural heritage, and "Hehe" representing harmony between man and nature, and "Mengmeng" (or ‘dream’ in Chinese) reflecting Chinese people's vision and expectations for the future.

Events May 22: Beautiful China – Silk Road Tourism Promotion.

June 8: National Day of China Pavilion – the most important event for the pavilion, with a flag rising ceremony, official speech, art performance, pavilion tour, and reception.

June 9: Sino-Italian Agriculture and Food Forum.

Cultural Weeks and Days: 17 provinces and cities from China will organize Cultural Weeks or Days featured with art performance, cultural heritage display, gourmet exhibition, economic and trade exchanges.

Corporate Days: the Global Partners of China Pavilion will organize

cultural and business events inside the pavilion.

Youth painting exhibition: prize winning works related to expo theme

by Chinese young artists aged between 7 and 22 will be displayed on rotation during the expo period.

Ad hoc events and exhibitions: Various art events and temporary exhibitions will be organized inside the pavilion or at the expo site.

The China Pavilion also has an official app for mobile phones, a 3D scene of the pavilion, and a WeChat account so that visitors can have quick and convenient access to the expo and the China Pavilion. People will have a fantastic experience through these new technologies and new media.

The Most Popular Pavilion The 2015 Italy Milano World Exposition drew to an end on Oct 31.

During the past six months, the China Pavilion received 3.05 million visitors from China and abroad, held 20 province and city culture weeks and days and 10 corporation themed days, and showcased more than 1,000 intangible cultural heritage exhibitions and art performances.

Fulfilling its mission, the China Pavilion was one of the most popular pavilions during the expo. The China Pavilion won the bronze award in the self-built pavilion architecture landscape category and the first prize award for outstanding pavilion recycling, and was recognized as the second most popular pavilion of the expo.

This article refers to China Expo Milano 2015 official news

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中國館主題「希望的田野，生命的源泉」， 旨在展現中國有效利用資源，保障糧食安全， 提供充足、健康、優質食品的不懈努力以及對 未來發展的展望。 「田野」是糧食和食品的來源，是人類繁 衍生息的生命之源。「希望」 是期待與展望。 「生命的源泉」則揭示了糧食、食物與人類生 存繁衍的密切聯繫。

標識

中國館的標識是用線與面勾勒出大自然的 輪廓和曲線，藍色代表天空，綠色代表田野， 金色代表糧食，紅色代表人和生命，水墨紋理 代表中國傳統文化。圖形透疊寓意世間萬物和 諧共生、天人合一的傳統思想。將中國傳統書 法和繪畫元素融入現代圖形設計，強化中國傳 統文化特色。

吉祥物

中國館吉祥物「和和」、「夢夢」，取自 傳統惠山泥人造型。「和和」由「禾」和「口」 象形文字組成，代表了漢字文化中糧食與人類 的關係；「夢夢」 取其寓意，表達了中國人

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民對未來的期盼和憧憬。羊角辮、金箍、肚兜 等傳統中國元素，使吉祥物的中國意象更加突 出鮮明。

中國館的重要活動 館日活動：館日活動包括升旗儀式、官方 致辭、文藝演出、巡館、招待會等內容； 中意農業食品經貿論壇 : 館日前後，由中 國貿促會、農業部會同意大利農業部、意大利 對外貿易協會和意中商會組織； 旅遊推廣活動：「美麗中國——陸上絲綢 之路旅遊推廣日」活動； 省區市活動周（日）等活動 : 世博會期間， 中國 17 個省區市陸續組織一系列包括開幕式、 文藝演出、農業非遺展演、美食文化展示和經 貿交流等活動； 其他專業類活動 : 世博會期間，參展省區 市、合作媒體、文藝演出合作方分別舉辦專業 類經貿推廣、文藝展演等活動； 「希望的田野——翰墨飄香」中國青少年 畫作展示——選自中國 7 到 22 歲青少年及兒 童的 3000 余幅作品，以獨特的視角描繪了青 少年心目中的理想生活和期待； 中國路演活動：中國館組委會與米蘭世博 會組織者在中國 8 個省區市聯合舉辦； 中國館志願者 : 志願者是中意青年交流的 文化使者，由中國館組委會與上海市青年志願 者協會、米蘭大學意大利孔子學院聯合組織招 募。 此外，中國館還同步開通了官方手機應用 程式、網上三維實景中國館、微信公眾號等平 台，讓更多民眾能快捷便利地瞭解世博會和中 國館。

最受歡迎的場館 10 月 31 日，為期半年的 2015 年義大利 米蘭世界博覽會成功落下帷幕。中國館圓滿完 成使命。6 個月內，中國館累計接待中外觀眾 305 萬人，舉辦了 20 個省區市活動周（日） 和 10 個企業活動日，安排了 1000 多場非遺 展示和文藝演出，接待了來自 68 個國家的 1539 個貴賓團組，包括 60 個國家的領導人、 皇室成員、政府部長以及國際組織領導等重要 貴賓，成為米蘭世博會最受關注、參觀人數最 多的場館之一，榮獲大面積自建館建築景觀獎 銅獎、展館可循環利用傑出獎一等獎及最受歡 迎展館第二名等多個重要獎項。 文章資料來源於米蘭世博會中國館官方網站 MOUTAI Magazine

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A Visit to Yee Tung Heen

Collective Force in a Cantonese Kitchen 集體創作 專訪香港怡東軒 TEXT / 文： Yu Yat Yiu IMAGE / 圖： Han Xingxi

Some may believe that, a dining experience is all about taste. While this sounds overwhelmingly true, the way leading us to the ultimate "taste experience", all those road signs and lamp poles are being largely neglected. I once attended an event called "Dinner in the Dark", where everybody was eating in complete darkness, not even a single spark of light was there to help you seeing anything. It was meant to let people experience how the community of visually impaired feel like, when they are dining at tables designed for the privileged majority. Everyone ate so slowly, trying to figure out how to communicate with our forks and knives, how to cut a piece of we didn't even know what, and put the cut food into our mouths successfully. It was mind blowing. 吃飯，本來和味覺關係最大。我曾經參加過一個名為「Dinner in the Dark」的活動，活動本意是令大家親身體驗失去了視覺的朋友， 他們吃一頓飯要過甚麼關斬甚麼將，藉此喚起大眾對視障者的關注。在伸手不見五指的情況下，依舊是平常熟悉的餐廳設備， 你面前有杯子有餐具，有和你同桌用餐的人，菜還是和平常一樣不徐不疾地逐一端到你跟前，放下枱面的一刻香氣撲鼻而至。 唯一不同的，是你甚麼東西都看不見。盤子中有甚麼食物，食物如何擺放，份量有多少，你完全無法掌握；拿起刀叉來怎樣切， 有沒有醬汁要蘸，不同食材要一起吃還是分開吃，究竟有沒有把盤子上的東西都吃完，這些也全然是個大大的問號。

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Yee Tung Heen 怡東軒

T

his very peculiar experience inspired me to draw my attention to other aspects of dining table rituals, especially at professionally run restaurants. All those thoughtful preparations and services done before hands to ensure a smooth and pleasant meal, are completely being taken for granted in our modern city lifestyle. They became invisible because they had been perfected over the years, so much to an extend that people assume their existence just as natural as tables, chairs and lights. It's only when they are missing that one may start to puzzle, and then realize the much essential role of those facilities in an enjoyable dine-out event.

So who are those magic hands behind the scene, making everything work so seamlessly? I'm particularly interested

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in Modern Chinese Culinary practice on this aspect, on how we could put Chinese restaurants into different ranking according to various dining experiences of their customers. In order to find out, I will have to get to the management of those eateries, to understand more about how things work.

I think it's almost legitimate to conclude that, the cradles of Modern Chinese Fine Dining were mostly set in Hong Kong, if not that Hong Kong is in fact the actual birthplace of it. Among these cradles, some had taken advantage of Hong Kong's world class hospitality industry, being placed in high end institutions, carefully nurtured and matured with grace, within the realm of high standard hotel management methodology.

Recently, a perfect specimen to me is "Yee Tung Heen", the Cantonese restaurant

of Excelsior Hotel in Causeway Bay, Hong Kong. Excelsior Hotel is part of the prestigious Mandarin Oriental Hotels Group, its standard of service is indubitable. The group also has a tradition of performing strong on food and beverage sector, gaining numerous international awards and recognitions, including an impressive number of Michelin starred restaurants within quite a number of their outlets worldwide.

No matter how strong a hotel's food and beverage department is, the reality in Hong Kong is that most personnels who head the F&B departments are not Chinese, or have very little knowledge in Chinese Cuisines. That's what makes Yee Tung Heen an interesting case to study, since her Director of Food and Beverage is a local Hong Kong professional - Mr.

The Three Musketeers of "Yee Tung Heen", the Cantonese restaurant at Excelsior Hotel, Hong Kong. 「怡東軒」三子

Sammy Wu. Mr. Wu who worked his way up from humble position in the industry, is surely having more than adequate experiences to back him up in daily duties.

Nevertheless, it's his personal exposure and understanding towards authentic Chinese cuisines, which ultimately provides him the key to make Yee Tung Heen one of the most advancing institutions of classic Cantonese food in Hong Kong. And those exposure and understanding is undoubtedly related to his Chinese descent, very much from how he developed his "Chinese taste buds" growing up in Hong Kong.

Collaboration between a chef and a F&B director could be viewed as the relationship of an artiste and his/her manager. The artiste himself/herself (in this case the chef) illuminates star quality through his/her

UPSIDE:

M r. S a m m y W u , D i r e c t o r o f F o o d & Beverage，Excelsior Hotel, Hong Kong. 香港怡東酒店餐飲部總監，鄔智明先生 MIDDLE:

Mr. Ken Chong, Restaurant manager -Yee Tung Heen, Excelsior Hotel, Hong Kong. 香港怡東酒怡東軒餐廳經理 , 莊成昌先生 BELOW:

Chef Wing Keung, Wong, Executive Chinese Chef, Excelsior Hotel, Hong Kong. 香港怡東酒中菜行政總廚 , 黃永強先生

incredible talent in cooking; the manager sees what the artiste is capable of doing, examines the market to see how people could receive those culinary art works, and brings the artiste to stardom by adjusting the presentation of his/her works.

The above might just as well explains in casual terms how Mr. Wu works with Executive Chinese Chef of Yee Tung Heen Chef Wing-keung Wong. Mr. Wu encouraged Chef Wong to take part in competitions, showcasing his extraordinary ability and vision in modern Cantonese cuisine. Award winning dishes not only bring fame to the restaurant, they also become building blocks of the restaurant menu, which ends up being widely approved and received by customers and critics. It's also from these new dishes which are created based on solid classic Cantonese techniques, that Mr. Wu found the new direction of Yee Tung Heen, thus set her aside from other Cantonese restaurants of same caliber in the vicinity.

Yee Tung Heen is all about perfecting classics, rather than exhibiting advanced culinary tricks and over the top ideas of fusion. The re-studying of certain old school Cantonese favorites, for example, a nostalgic dish "Roasted chicken liver glazed with honey", successfully brought the dish back to modern era. By cooking the chicken liver sous vide, and going through lab tests to ensure food safety issue is being well taken care of, Yee Tung Heen's roasted chicken liver achieved a more stable texture without altering its original characteristic in taste and aroma. Another example is "Supreme sweetened red bean soup", using 25 years vintage grade dried tangerine peel, experimenting on Japanese red bean, gone through 11 different versions before nailing down the final one, which has the best balance between strong tangerine flavor and mellow sweetness of red beans. This signature sweet soup of Yee Tung Heen, like the restaurant herself, is a perfect example of how we can bring our culinary legacy back to life. By scrutinizing our vast and rich food culture, examining and understanding the construction of classic dishes and their cooking methods with care and in great detail, injecting modern kitchen techniques and technical supports, Yee Tung Heen shows us that a bright and new future of historic Cantonese delicacy is indeed within reach.

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吃飯，本來和味覺關係最大。我曾經參加

性程序，自然得根本完全不察覺它的存在，平

借助酒店專業而仔細的分工，把原來百分百以

過一個名為「Dinner in the Dark」的活動，活

常亦不懂去欣賞和感恩。只有在出了問題的時

人為本的中國文化特色，融入今日商業社會運

動本意是令大家親身體驗失去了視覺的朋友，

候，又或者好像我那次在失去視力的情況下，

行和管理技巧，促成了精品中菜的現代化進程。

他們吃一頓飯要過甚麼關斬甚麼將， 藉此喚起

你才會開始意識到這些心思和設計的重要性。

在近年，我自己親身體驗中，把這套概念

大眾對視障者的關注。在伸手不見五指的情況

那麼，究竟是誰如此細緻地，在背後把一

發揮得最好，因而成功地令餐廳突飛猛進好評

下，依舊是平常熟悉的餐廳設備，你面前有杯

切都想得透徹，繼而付諸實行呢？要找出精通

如潮的，相信非位於銅鑼灣最標誌性的香港怡

子有餐具，有和你同桌用餐的人，菜還是和平

這門學問的高人來指教，首先要找一處把這門

東酒店粵菜廳「怡東軒」莫屬。「怡東軒」是

常一樣不徐不疾地逐一端到你跟前，放下枱面

學問做得到位做得出眾的餐廳。在西餐的世界，

香港酒店中菜的猛將，一九九三年開業，正值

的一刻香氣撲鼻而至。唯一不同的，是你甚麼

尤其近年由主廚行政主導的普遍情況下，加上

香港黃金時代的成熟期，在過去二十多年以來，

東西都看不見。盤子中有甚麼食物，食物如何

菜色本身的概念和性質，要把這套功夫做好幾

一直是香港粵菜殿堂中有份量的一員。大約在

擺放，份量有多少，你完全無法掌握；拿起刀

乎是必然的事。因此，我個人更關注的，是我

四年前，怡東軒進行過大規模的裝修工程，令

叉來怎樣切，有沒有醬汁要蘸，不同食材要一

們中菜如何從來賓的整體進食體驗，劃分出餐

外觀完全現代化。隨後新任行政總廚黃永強師

起吃還是分開吃，究竟有沒有把盤子上的東西

飲服務上的不同層次。因為，這可能是中式餐

傅加盟，帶着他之前在另一高級港式粵菜翹楚，

都吃完，這些也全然是個大大的問號。

飲步向更廣博未來的其中一條蹊徑。

香港文華東方酒店「文華廳」那邊工作的見聞，

這經歷令我意識到，味道是一頓飯的本質

當代精品中餐體驗，不計富商巨賈們的私

為怡東軒開創新領域之餘，同時彰顯餐廳本身

的同時，若然是在一個專業的用餐環境下，即

房宴，或貴族政要為顏面而擺下的華筵席，一

深厚的實力。黃師傅毫無疑問是怡東軒的中樞

是一家運作嫻熟的菜館內，那許多許多引領你

般社會可以接觸到的那種凡間細膩，就算不是

神經，主宰餐廳的一切運作及手足的協調。但

的注意力，為你的身心作好準備去整體體驗一

香港發明，也是在香港高端粵菜的食桌上孕育

其實在師傅的旁邊，還有一個很重要的幫手，

道菜餚的功夫，其實已經是我們習以為常的慣

成長的。這等粵菜廳，傳統上都在酒店內發芽，

重要性可以比喻為大腦的認知意識，協助總廚

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1:

Steamed twin gold fish dumplings 雙生金魚餃 2:

Baked traditional salt crusted chicken with Chinese wine ( Cooking time 55 minutes and one day advance order required ) 古法酒香鹽焗雞 ( 需時 55 分鐘及一天前預訂 ) 3:

Steamed winter melon with crab meat, carrot paste and egg white 珊瑚白玉球 4:

Supreme sweetened red bean soup (25 years vintage dried tangerine peel and Japanese red bean) 遠年陳皮紅豆沙 ( 二十五年陳皮配日本紅豆 )

更客觀地判斷情況，以及和客人們乃至外邊的

夠選擇最適合的外觀、感覺及定位，整套穿戴

是許多人找尋現代演譯傳統粵菜的地方這個特

大環境，建立適當的連系。這個人，就是怡東

在明星身上，把最好的發揮得更好更到位，從

點，在和主廚研究菜色時，都有着重把一些經

酒店餐飲部總監鄔智明先生。

而獲得外界應有的關注和愛戴。

典菜色做出不一樣的品位層次，為怡東軒加重

鄔先生和黃師傅一樣，之前在香港文華東

鄔先生對怡東軒的定位，可說有一套完整

她招牌的質量和份量。最近的例子，有融入

方酒店工作。轉過來怡東酒店時間略先的鄔先

的概念。那概念是跟據怡東酒店的歷史，所在

西餐低溫慢煮方法，經過多次化驗確保雞肝細

生，是香港其中一位最專業的酒店餐飲主管級

位置，客人屬於甚麼種類，及附近有甚麼競爭

滑的同時，食用也絕對安全的「老廣州蜜味燒

人材。香港的酒店一向沿用國際化的營運模式，

對手而歸納出來，再在怡東軒的日常運作中觀

鳳肝」；須要一位師傅全神灌注，在廚房裏佔

餐飲總監一職設立已久。但以往在頂尖酒店中，

察及驗證。鄔先生深諳香港客人的飲食消費心

用一隻鍋一個爐五十分鐘才能製成的「古法酒

出任此要職的以外國人居多。自然而然地，因

理，亦知道怡東軒不是那種西材中煮的前衞餐

香鹽焗雞」；外型改頭換面，令一道膾炙人口

為本身文化背景上的差異，在對中菜的處理上

廳。她是比較踏實而當代的，是舒泰中暗露驚

的廣東點心進化成食藝品的「雙生金魚餃」；

每每較為被動。鄔先生在初入行時，曾經以處

喜的細水長流。但在今日競爭激烈，名目多於

還有試菜過程經歷十一個不同版本，才取得

理西菜為主職，累積了不少用餐流程和菜色造

實務的商業化飲食文化漩渦裏，能令客人對餐

二十五年新會陳皮和日本十勝紅豆完美平衡的

型設計的眼界品位，成為他日後聚焦處理精品

廳有一個水準上的依歸點十分重要。這也是為

「遠年陳皮紅豆沙」。這些菜餚的根基，完全

粵菜時的視野。

何好像米芝蓮這類權威，會成為全民追隨吹捧

是近代粵菜出類拔萃之作。經過鄔先生黃師傅

餐飲總監和行政總廚的合作，有時候有若

的熱門話題。因此鄔先生支持黃師傅踴躍參加

的攜手合作，在真誠演繹經典菜色的傳統精神

型象顧問和明星的關係。明星本身是上好的表

各項美食比賽，把得獎菜色納入怡東軒的菜單

之時，運用了當代烹調技術，並注入與時並進

演人材，型象師既了解明星的光環威力何在，

上。

的餐飲服務思維。這可以說是中國飲食文化不

又能客觀地估算觀眾們的期望和心意，更洞察

除了得獎賽能吸引食客，擁有一些常設

整個表演行業的生態環境和潮流趨勢，因此能

的招牌菜其實更為重要。鄔先生捕捉到怡東軒

卑不亢地面向世界的光明之路，也是怡東軒這 個成功例子對香港飲食生態的一點啟示。

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Blame It on The spectacular Nihiwatu Resort on the stunningly unspoiled island of Sumba is the ultimate backdrop for an off-the-radar adventure, serving up a world-famous surf, fresh seafood, gorgeous horses, breathtaking design and luxury with a conscience and a dollop of bohemian spirit.

Sumba the

TEXT / 文 : Johannes Pong IMAGE / 圖 : Nihiwatu Resort

Nihiwatu Resort

A

55-minute charter flight east from Bali and south of the Komodo and Flores islands takes me to Sumba, one of the most unexplored and poorest islands of the Indonesian archipelago.

Nestled within a jungle by the beach, Nihiwatu Resort is a model of sustainable luxury. Turtle eggs await hatching in the nursery and the subsequent release back into the sea. The nonprofit Sumba Foundation set up by the resort’s founder strives to make a positive impact on the island, providing health care, clean water, education and employment to the locals. Malaria has almost been eradicated, and

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many repeat guests (70 percent of the clientele) have spent a day or two (or more) volunteering at the foundation’s clinics and schools.

There are spacious tree houses built on stilts in between ancient trees. Raja Mendaka, the estate of owner Chris Burch (former husband of fashion designer Tory Burch) is the most magnificent residence at Nihiwatu, taking prime position overlooking the coastline. Five villas make up the sprawling, manicured and cantilevered compound, and I’m staying in one of the newest ones. I feel immediately at ease with the calming wood and happy orange accents of my new home for the next

UPSIDE:

Nihiwatu Resort

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Villas of Nihiwatu Resort

three days, listening to the relaxing roar of the waves from my patio with my feet in the infinity pool. Alfresco bathrooms and showers usually freak me out at night, but knowing that there are no monkeys within the vicinity (unlike some of Bali’s hotels) I welcome the outdoors into my life.

For the surfing community, the exclusivity of “The Wave” directly offshore of Nihiwatu Resort has given Sumba legendary status. Not only is the consistent left-hand surf break one of the best in Asia, the resort restricts the number of surfers to just 10 daily. With this limited access, Nihiwatu’s shoreline won’t just become a “surf slum” like most Balinese beaches.

The resort has been buying acres of Sumba land, mainly to protect it from excessive urban development, to keep this relatively untouched island from becoming yet another Bali. But it seems that Chinese developers have already snapped up a few other beaches. Not that the Chinese are total strangers to Sumba. From the eighth up to the 18th century, traders from China periodically brought jade and horses (still luxury products to the Sumbanese) while taking away slaves and all the sandalwood on the island.

Sumba is still in many ways a lost world. Most of the locals have Christian names (Mary, Lucia, Carlos, Marco) but the indigenous animist Marapu culture and belief system still persists. Funerals involve the sacrifice of horses and buffalo. Priests read the innards of animals to determine whether the diseased will live or pass on to the spirit world.

The annual spring festival of Pasola — held during February to March — coinciding with the arrival of multicolored sea worms to Sumba’s shores, is ritualized war. These days the spears thrown by the several hundred warriors on horseback are blunt, but there are still occasional fatalities.

And Sumbanese men carry machetes with them at all times. Sometimes

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Villas of Nihiwatu Resort

Villas of Nihiwatu Resort

you hear of bloody limbs lying on the streets in remote towns, a violent conclusion to feuds. I’m glad the headhunting practices have stopped.

The trek to this hidden spectacular Blue Waterfall, discovered recently by the hotel staff, takes us down a mountain into a primordial jungle, with trees that seem to have been there since the beginning of time. I’m paying attention to my every step, lest I run into some hideous insect or lose my footing and fall down a slippery slope into oblivion. Behind us, the locals porters who are carrying our lunch — a picnic for six hanging heavily between poles on their shoulders — have clearly walked the trail countless times, skillfully skipping across different terrain and adroitly avoiding obstacles like loose rocks, exposed roots and fallen tree trunks. They nudge us city folk to hurry along. Three kids are also following us, learning the trail from the adults. I realize that the natives prefer walking barefoot through the jungle. A firmer grip on Mother Earth, I gather.

Our moods lighten up, coming back out from the dark canopy of the jungle into the sun, getting a whiff of all those glorious negative ions released by the gushing cascade. The majestic waterfall is a refreshing sky blue, surrounded with emerald green moss-covered crags. Sumba feels like Ireland.

The next day, an Indonesian Instagrammer couple and I visit a local village before our Spa Safari. It’s a 90-minute trek to Nihi Oka valley, but since I've climbed up and down a mountain the day before, we opted for a sexy open-air safari jeep to take us to the secluded valley.

The village is stone-age. The villagers live in stilt houses. The stinking, grunting and clucking animals live directly underneath them.

Children hanging out on the veranda right on top of squealing piglets trying to get milk from a fat sow all stare at us in curiosity as we try

not to look back with the same intrusive inquisitiveness. The adult villagers immediately display all their vendible goods — daggers with decorated hilts, the intricate ikat blanket-like shawls that they weave suddenly hung up like laundry. I wonder if this is an authentic village or if they’re putting on a show for tourists. A topless grandmother walks past. There’s that convincing National Geographic moment.

Cute puppies run away in fright when I come in close to pet them. “They’re not pets,” said our Portuguese guide. “They’ re food. That’s why they’re running away from you.”

The graveyard in the middle of the village is the most sacred spot. That’s where the spirits and ancestors live. A boar darts from under a house nonchalantly into the cemetery, passing by a mausoleum with a splendid mural of Jesus Christ in his handsome blond Caucasian form. I wonder how many villagers are actually Christian. Perhaps their existing culture and basic belief in animal sacrifice allows the Sumbanese to easily embrace the idea of a Jewish messiah offered as blood atonement and scapegoat for human sins.

Two men lead a very reluctant goat to an open square in the village, near two girls pummeling cassava joyfully in a mortar. Dogs and children encircle the poor bleating creature. I prayed to God that the men won’t give me the honor of butchering it for their village and quickly power walk away from the impeding slaughter.

No grass is grown in the village, so dust is kicked up every time an animal or someone walks around. I’m brushing flies away from my face and trying not to breathe. Sumba feels like Africa.

Walking past undulating rice paddies and women washing the village clothes at a nearby river, we reach rustic breakfast platforms and spa bales at Nihi Oka valley overlooking a glittering Indian Ocean. Treatments range from full body massages to body scrubs and cooling, rejuvenating wraps for the Indonesian heat, all using natural, local ingredients.

In the surreal, plush comfort of my private, semi-open air pavilion, I opt for a foot massage after a long day of trekking. While my dedicated therapist isn’t up to my usual standards of Chinese reflexology, the dramatic view is simply matchless — an uninterrupted vista of the sea, with monumental waves crashing mesmerizingly onto a pristine golden beach flanked by verdant palms. Sumba feels like Hawaii.

When I WhatsApped this series of photographs to my mother, she responded: “What is that little boy doing there? I like the breathtaking scenery more than the pigs, but the sty looks fascinating.”

I told her that it’s not a pig sty, but the animals, the prized property of a Sumbanese, live right underneath their huts. Sumba is the poorest island in Indonesia, hence there is little urban development by modern man, and nature is still relatively untouched.

My mom WhatsApped back: “They have to take what life is but can still live it to the fullest. We must have a thankful heart. Take care.”

Back at resort, I’m invited to dine at the personal villa of James McBride, well known hotelier and Nihiwatu’s Managing Partner. A Scottish magician is entertaining us thoroughly with his mind-blowing tricks. The Chef is German who grew up in Mexico, so it’s Mexican night, and we’re having fish tacos in an alcove set in his pool. The mixologist made us marvelous margaritas. I’m speaking French to a family of four from Switzerland and a Parisian entrepreneur whom I went horseback riding with on the scintillating 2.5 kilometer stretch of beach during sunset. Sumba feels like Heaven.

Check out www.nihiwatu.com for details on how to get there.

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Nature

Deserves Our Awe 自然不是用來保護的

TEXT / 文 : Dong Tiezhu

I

n Chinese people's view, nature never needs our protection but deserves our awe.

In the 7th lunar month of 134 BC (Han Dynasty), the capital of Chang'an was hit by hail and the entire capital was in great panic.

Dong Zhongshu comforted people and said that weather conditions, including hail were the changes of the yin qi (energy) and yang qi between heaven and earth; there was hail because of the disharmony between yin qi and yang qi, which was caused by the problems of people's affairs and government. In Dong Zhongshu's view, if the government was flourishing, natural disasters would naturally be reduced.

Man and nature were unified, and all things in the nature were relevant to people's every move in the society. This was probably the commonest understanding of traditional Chinese literati. Famous thinker Wang Chong of the Eastern Han Dynasty said, "Qi of heaven and earth was unified and then all things were born naturally." Nature is as mysterious and awesome as our ancestors.

Man is a product of nature and country is also produced by the will of nature. Since the emperor was Heaven's son, he was a part of nature; the people governed by the emperor also came from nature.

Therefore, the best way was to pay homage to nature. That is, ensured that the country was peaceful and harmonious, and the people were

在中國人看來，自然從來都不是用來保護，而是用來敬畏的。

既然是上天之子，他就是自然的一部分；天子所管轄的萬民，也同樣出

公元前 134 年（漢武帝元光元年）的農曆七月，京城長安遭到了冰

於自然。向自然表達敬意的最好方法，就是天下太平，人民安康，如此

雹襲擊。京城上下頗為恐慌，董仲舒就安慰大家說，風雨雷電，無非是

自然界便不會有災異。在儒家五經之一的《尚書》中不止一次的記載，

天地之間陰陽兩氣的各種變化，冰雹也是如此。之所以有冰雹，是因為

每當有乾旱或洪水等自然災害時，帝王就會反省自己的行為。商朝時有

陰陽之氣不調，而陰陽之氣不調，則是人事政局有問題的緣故。在董仲

一次天下乾旱了七年，湯就自責以謝罪，於是「天應以雨」。用清明的

舒看來，如果政治昌明，自然界的災難自然就會減少。

政治來保護自然與環境，這樣的曲線環保手段，也算是中國人的獨創。

天人合一，自然的一切都和人們在社會中的一舉一動相聯繫，這大

既然自然是我們的造物主，那麼我們做任何事情都要遵循自然的規

概是中國傳統文人最為普遍的認識。東漢的著名思想家王充說：「天地

律——也就是所謂的「道」。孟子與荀子強調一切都要根據天時，自然

合氣，萬物自生，猶夫婦合氣，子自生矣。」自然就如同我們的祖先一樣，

界春生秋殺，我們的一切行為也就要按照這個規律。荀子說：「草木榮

神秘而讓人滿懷敬意。

華滋碩之時，則斧斤不入山林，不夭其生，不絕其長也。」也就是說春

人的出現是自然的產物，而國家的出現也同樣是自然的意志。皇帝

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天不要去砍伐樹木，這段話經常被人用來作為古代環保思想的代表。實

safe and healthy. In this case, there would not be disaster in the nature.

"Shang Shu" (Book of Documents), one of the Confucian Five Classics, had recorded more than once that every time when there were such natural disasters as drought or flood, the emperor would reflect on his behaviors; once when the Shang Dynasty was suffering from seven years' drought, Emperor Tang blamed himself and asked for nature's forgiveness. As a result, "the heaven responded with rain". The indirect means of protecting nature and environment by being an honest and incorruptible government can be considered an original creation of Chinese people.

Since nature is our Creator, all we do must comply with the law of nature——This is the so-called "Tao." Both Mencius and Xunzi emphasized that everything should be done at the right time. The nature has a rule of growing in spring and harvesting in autumn. Therefore, all of our behaviors must stick to this rule as well. Xunzi said, "Spring is the growing and flowering time for plants. Therefore, people should not chop them down in spring." These words have often been used as the representative of ancient environmental protection thoughts. Actually, the word "protection" might misunderstand the ancients' attitude towards the relation between man and nature. It is the supreme nature that protects us and we must follow the rules of nature. Therefore, we are complying with the nature rather than protecting it. Spring is the season for growth and we should not chop or kill while autumn is the right time for chopping down trees and hunting animals. This was also what Bai Juyi meant in his verse "Please do not shoot the birds in spring."

In the previous lines of this poem, Bai Juyi mentioned, "Who says that other lives are insignificant? Indeed they all have the same flesh and blood", which revealed a strong sense of Buddhism. Since Buddhism was introduced to China in the Han Dynasty, cherishing life had been

endowed with a new meaning. If the Pre-Qin philosophers' proposals of no indiscriminate killing or chopping were to follow the rules of nature, then, the literati's care for plants and animals after the Han Dynasty would be more or less the result of the Buddhism's ideological influence.

Master Zhan Ran of the Tiantai Sect in the Tang Dynasty believed that even such things as plants, wood, and tiles that had no feeling, had the same Buddha-nature as people; killing and chopping damaged the environment, destructed the Buddha-nature, and subsequently would affect a person's present and future. So, people were still in awe of nature. The difference was that the previous awe theoretically came more from the emperor than ordinary people because he was the leader for complying with nature and maintaining a peaceful world; however, after being affected by the Buddhism, all people had a sense of awe.

Before the Han and Tang dynasties, if there were disasters, the emperor would offer sacrifices and pray to the nature for forgiveness, which was none of ordinary people's business; however, since the Han and Tang dynasties, Buddhism had brought the awe of nature to anyone who prayed for successful reincarnation. As a result, besides the emperor, ordinary people also prayed to the nature, and the awe of nature prevailed among all people.

The Song Dynasty literati Su Dongpo had a poem called "Presented to Master of Donglin Temple": "The sound of the stream is just the long and broad tongue (of the Buddha); isn't the mountain like his purified body? Tonight he chants numerous gathas (Sanskrit term for "song" or "verse"); tomorrow how can these gathas be given to another person?"

In Su Dongpo's opinion, both streams and mountains had the Buddhanature; among streams and mountains, who would bear to pollute them!

Today, throughout the country, there are still many ancient temples among mountains. Then, from these temples, whether the people nowadays can feel a kind of awe?

則保護二字，未免有些錯解了古人對於人與自然關係的理解。自然是高

就會影響自己的今生與來世。如此，對自然的敬畏依然，只不過之前的

高在上的，是它在保護著我們；自然之道是人所必須遵守的，與其說我

敬畏是從上而下的，理論上最應持有敬畏之心的人是天子，他才是順應

們是保護自然，不如說我們是在順應自然。春天是生長的季節，我們就

自然天下太平的主角；而在佛教的影響下，敬畏之心人人皆有。之前若

不應該砍伐殺戮；到了秋天，該拿著斧頭進山砍樹打獵還是照做的。白

有天災，天子會祭祀謝罪祈求上天的原諒，並不關百姓的事；而漢唐以

居易說「勸君莫打三春鳥」，說的也是這個意思。

來的佛教，讓每一個希望來生轉世成功的人都心懷敬畏，於是天子繼續

在這句詩歌的上一聯，白居易寫到「誰道群生生命微，一樣骨肉一

祭祀，百姓也會燒香，對自然的敬畏就悄悄的全民化了。

樣皮」，其中流露出的思想，帶著濃重的佛教色彩。自從佛教在漢朝傳

宋代文人蘇東坡有一首《贈東林總長老》：「溪聲盡是廣長舌，山

入中國，珍愛生命便賦予了新的意義。如果說先秦的哲人們主張不濫殺

色無非清淨身。夜來八萬四千偈，他日如何舉似人。」在蘇東坡看來，

濫伐是為了遵循自然之道，那麼漢朝以後的文人們對於花草和動物的愛

小溪和青山都是佛性的展現；置身其中，誰又會忍心去污染青山綠水！

惜，則或多或少是受到了佛教思想影響的緣故。唐代天臺宗大師湛然主

如今大江南北的青山之中還有著不少古蹟 ，不知道它們的存在是否還會

張「無情有性」，認為就算是花花草草甚至是木頭瓦片這樣毫無感情的

讓現代人感受到一份敬畏呢？

事物，都和人一樣有著佛性。殺戮砍伐破壞環境，便是對佛性的摧殘，

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M UTAI on the World Map 茅 台 在 全 球

UPSIDE:

At the site of competition, appraisers were appraising the participating spirits 烈性酒大獎賽現場，評委們正在認真地對參賽酒品進行品評

Moutai Won Two Grand Gold Medals from the 2015 CMB Spirits Selection From August 26 to 28, with the theme of "World Spirits Intoxicate Guizhou, Chinese Liquor Aromas Permeate the World", the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles (CMB) Guiyang 2015 Spirits Selection was grandly held in the Expo Center of the Guiyang Southwest International Trade City.

It was reported that 1,397 spirits from 43 countries and regions participated in the competition, the most ever. Among them, 552 spirits come from China while 845 spirits come from abroad, with categories covering brandy, whisky, rum, vodka, Jiang (or "Mao") fragrance liquor, thick (or "Lu") fragrance liquor, and light (or "Fen") fragrance liquor. During the 3-day competition, in the form of blind tasting, spirits appraisers from around the world appraised and scored the spirits, and finally decided the winners of silver medal,

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gold medal, and grand gold medal.

On September 9, the awards ceremony of the competition was held in the Guiyang International Conference and Exhibition Center.

"Feitian Kweichow Moutai Liquor" (53%) and "Moutai Bird's Nest Ordinary Liquor" (53%) presented by Kweichow Moutai Co., Ltd. won the highest award in this competition——Grand Gold Medal. It was reported that each year the number of spirits winning this honor was only about 1% of the total participant number. Besides, "Moutai Prince Liquor (Jiang Men Jing Dian)" from Kweichow Moutai Co., Ltd. and "Xijiu Jiaocang 1988" from Kweichow Moutai Distillery (Group) Xijiu Co., Ltd. won the gold medal. (Reported and photographed by Shang Yusong, Mo Shaoting, and Chen Si)

M UTAI on the world map

國際烈性酒大獎賽在貴陽舉行 茅台斬獲兩塊大金牌

織部常務副部長侯正茂在中國貴州茅台酒廠（集團）有限責任公司領 導班子會及領導幹部大會上宣讀省委決定，李保芳同志任中國貴州茅 台酒廠（集團）有限責任公司黨委委員、書記；同意提名推薦李保芳

8 月 26 日至 28 日，以「世界烈酒醉美貴州，中國白酒香飄全球」

同志作為中國貴州茅台酒廠（集團）有限責任公司總經理、董事、副

為主題的 2015（貴陽）比利時布魯塞爾國際烈性酒大獎賽在貴陽西南

董事長、貴州茅台酒股份有限公司董事人選，代行貴州茅台酒股份有

國際商貿城博覽中心隆重舉行。

限公司總經理職責。

據悉，本屆大賽共有來自 43 個國家和地區的 1397 款酒品參賽， 為歷屆之最。其中，國際參賽酒品 845 款、國內參賽酒品 552 款，品 類涵蓋白蘭地、威士忌、朗姆酒、伏特加、醬香型、濃香型、清香型等。 大賽為期 3 天，來自世界各國的評酒師以盲品形式進行評酒、打分， 最終評出銀獎、金獎、大金獎。 9 月 9 日，大賽頒獎儀式在貴陽國際會議中心舉行。貴州茅台酒 股份有限公司出品的飛天 53 度茅台酒、53 度鳥巢普通酒摘得本次大 賽最高獎——大金牌，據悉，每年獲此殊榮的酒品數量約為參賽總數 的 1%。同時，貴州茅台酒股份有限公司醬門經典茅台王子酒、貴州茅 台酒廠（集團）習酒有限責任公司習酒窖藏 1988 獲大賽金牌。（尚鈺 淞 莫紹婷 陳思 攝影報導）

UPSIDE:

Yuan Renguo spoke at the Alcoholic Beverages Expo and Global Industry Development Summit 袁仁國在酒博會全球酒業發展峰會上發表演講

5th International Alcoholic Beverages Expo Grandly Held

UPSIDE:

Li Baofang, Party Secretary and General Manager of Moutai Group 茅台集團黨委書記、總經理李保芳

Li Baofang was Appointed Party Secretary and General Manager of Moutai Group On August 24, 2015, at Moutai Group's Leadership Conference, Sun Yongchun (Member of Guizhou Provincial Party Standing Committee and Head of Guizhou Organization Department) and Hou Zhengmao (Executive Deputy Head of the Organization Department of the Guizhou Provincial Party Committee) declared that Li Baofang was appointed Party Secretary of Moutai Group as well as Acting General Manager of Kweichow Moutai Co., Ltd., and agreed to nominate and recommend Li Baofang as general manager, board member, and vice chairman of Moutai Group.

李保芳同志任茅台集團黨委書記、總經理

On September 9, organized by China's Ministry of Commerce and the People's Government of Guizhou Province, the 5th China (Guizhou) International Alcoholic Beverages Expo and Global Alcoholic Beverages Industry Development Summit were grandly opened in Guiyang.

The theme of this expo was "Yesterday, Today, and Tomorrow of the World's Alcoholic Beverages Industry". 1,020 Chateaus and liquor enterprises from 35 countries such as France, the United States, Germany, Spain, Italy, and Australia, 399 liquor enterprises from China's 26 other provinces (autonomous regions and municipalities), as well as 268 liquor enterprises from Guizhou Province gathered in Guiyang to discuss the development of today's alcoholic beverages industry. (Reported and photographed by Mo Shaoting and Chen Si)

第五屆中國（貴州）國際酒類博覽會暨全球酒業 發展峰會隆重舉行 9 月 9 日，由中國商務部和貴州省人民政府共同主辦的第五屆 中國（貴州）國際酒類博覽會暨全球酒業發展峰會在貴陽隆重開幕。 本屆酒博會以「世界酒業的昨天、今天、明天」為主題，來 自澳大利亞、法國、美國、德國、西班牙、意大利等 35 各國家的 1020 家境外酒莊酒企，來自國內 26 個省（區、市）的 399 家酒 類企業，以及省內 268 家酒類企業齊聚貴陽，共同探討當今酒類行

2015 年 8 月 24 日，貴州省委常委、組織部部長孫永春，省委組

業的發展。（莫紹婷 陳思 攝影報道）

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UPSIDE:

Unique lipstick-shaped bottles 獨特的口紅瓶型，宛如唇間一抹性感誘 惑，盡顯女性嬌柔

UPSIDE:

Release conference of "Wang Mao" 「王茅」上市發布會

Wang Mao and Hua Mao Liquors Sold in the Civil Aviation System On July 29, the release conference for the Wang Mao and Hua Mao liquors of Kweichow Moutai Co., Ltd. to enter the market of the civil aviation system and the tasting activity were held in Guiyang's Regal Hotel, marking Wang Mao and Hua Mao's official entry to the civil aviation system and to the world through this system.

Du Guangyi (Deputy General Manager of Kweichow Moutai Co., Ltd. and Chairman of the Jiang Fragrance Liquor Marketing Company), Wang Sen and Du Kangjie (Deputy General Managers of Guizhou Airports Group Co., Ltd.) as well as over 200 guests from the civil aviation system and all sectors of society gathered in the activity to discuss the development of China's "Jiang" fragrance liquor in a state of "New Normal".

The release conference was started with the "Eight Liquors Shinning in the Sky" video of the Moutai Flavor (Jiang Fragrance) Series and eight core brands (1 "Qu", 3 "Mao", and 4 "Jiang") of the Jiang fragrance liquor were demonstrated one by one, unveiling the keynote of this conference——This is a conference to release the Wang Mao and Hua Mao liquors as well as a value guidance for Jiang fragrance liquor. (Zhang Liangjun)

王茅酒、華茅酒於民航系統上市

On September 8, the superb nectar exclusively created by Moutai Group for women——the UMEET "Living Up to Beauty" series womenonly fashionable wines were grandly released in Guiyang, marking the birth of China's first women-only fashionable wine. This series of wines were created and presented by Kweichow Moutai (Group) EcoAgriculture Development Co., Ltd. after three years of development.

The UMEET series of wines pioneer the concept of women-only fashion in China's alcoholic beverages industry and fully demonstrate fashion charms through the values concept of "Giving women a more wonderful life" and the uniquely designed packaging. These wines were blended from Moutai's top base liquor with three flower and fruit juices (blueberry, rose, and chrysanthemum) suitable for women to drink and were processed through unique technique, without adding any preservative. Coupled with different colors, each category includes three alcohol contents, that is, 4.5%, 8 %, and 12 %. With agreeably sweet taste, these wines are rich in such nutrients as anthocyanin, which can prevent aging, protect eyesight, resist oxidation, and meet the women's demands on fashion, health as well as anti-aging. Women can fully enjoy the exclusive favors from the rich sweetness of these wines. (Reported and photographed by Mo Shaoting and Chen Si)

UMEET：中國首款女性專屬時尚酒誕生 9 月 8 日 ， 茅 台 集 團 公 司 專 為 億 萬 女 性 打 造 的 精 品 瓊 漿 ——

7 月 29 日，貴州茅台酒股份有限公司王茅酒、華茅酒於民航

UMEET「莫負芳華」系列女性專屬時尚酒在貴陽隆重發佈，標誌著中

系統上市發佈會暨品鑒會在貴陽麗豪大酒店舉行，標誌著王茅酒、

國首款女性專屬時尚酒的誕生。該系列酒經過茅台集團公司歷時三年

華茅酒在民航系統的正式上市，通過民航系統窗口作用走向全球。

研發而成，由茅台集團生態農業產業發展有限公司榮譽出品。

茅台集團公司黨委委員、股份公司副總經理、醬香酒營銷公司

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UMEET: China's First Women-Only Fashionable Wine Created

UMEET「莫負芳華」系列酒在中國酒業首創女性專屬時尚概念，

董事長杜光義，貴州省機場集團有限公司黨委委員、副總經理王森、

以「讓女人活得更精彩」為產品價值觀，以獨特的外包裝設計，盡顯時

杜康節等領導與來自民航系統及社會各界嘉賓 200 多名代表齊聚一

尚風魅。該系列酒用茅台頂級基酒調配藍莓、玫瑰、菊花三種適合女

堂，共話新常態下中國醬酒發展之路。

性飲用的花果汁，經獨特工藝處理，不添加任何防腐劑，每一個品種

發佈會在茅台醬香系列酒「八酒耀星空」的璀璨片頭中拉開帷

按 4.5 度、8 度、12 度三個酒精度配以不同顏色，口感甜而不膩，其所

幕，醬香酒八個核心品牌「一曲三茅四醬 +N」一一展現，也奠定

富含的花青素等營養成分，能夠預防衰老、保護視力、抵抗氧化，滿

了此次上市會的基調——是王茅酒、華茅酒的上市發佈，也是醬香

足了億萬女性時尚、健康、防衰老的消費需求，盡可在濃郁的甜美中，

酒的價值導航。（張靚君）

感受她的時代專寵。 （莫紹婷 陳思 攝影報導）

MOUTAI Magazine

M UTAI on the world map

紀念版茅台酒。茅台集團公司副董事長、總經理、黨委副書記劉自力 出席活動並為「十年慶」紀念版茅台酒揭幕。 「十年慶」紀念版茅台酒由法國卡慕公司設計，以世界著名的法 國巴卡拉紅水晶為瓶身，以法國名錫安如錫為裝飾，全球限量 100 瓶， 全手工製作，每瓶帶有獨立編號。三個法國百年企業合力打造這款「十 年慶」紀念版茅台酒，旨在向中國的國酒致以崇高的敬意，意在詮釋 中法民族的百年匠心。（葉遠鳴 張連釗 趙政 攝影報道）

UPSIDE:

Liu Zili (left) and Cyril Camus (right) attended the celebration for the 10th anniversary of cooperation between Moutai and Camus

Moutai Sponsored the Inauguration Ceremony of "Russian-Chinese Center for Economic and Trade Cooperation"

劉自力（左）與西裏爾·卡慕（右）共同出席茅台卡慕十周年慶典 ( 北京 ) 活動

Moutai Launched Commemorative Liquor for Its 10th Anniversary of Entering the French Market On June 12, Moutai Group and France's Camus Group (Camus La Grande Marque) held a celebration for their 10th anniversary of cooperation in Paris's Senator Restaurant. Gao Shouhong, Deputy General Manager of Moutai Group and other executives attended the celebration.

At the beginning of the activity, Cyril Camus, president of Camus Group, expressed his belief in the promising future of the business cooperation between Moutai and Camus.

On June 30, Moutai Group and Camus Group held a celebration for the 10th anniversary of their cooperation in Beijing, and launched 100 bottles of limited-edition "10th Anniversary" Commemorative Moutai. Liu Zili, Vice Chairman and General Manager of Moutai Group, attended the celebration and unveiled the "10th Anniversary" Commemorative Moutai.

Designed by Camus, this "10th Anniversary" Commemorative Moutai uses the world-famous French Baccarat red crystal for its bottle and the famous French tin for decoration. Only 100 bottles of this liquor are launched and each bottle has a unique number. Three French century-old companies work together to accomplish this commemorative liquor so as to pay homage to China's national liquor and demonstrate the centurial ingenuity of the French nation. (Reported and photographed by Ye Yuanming, Zhang Lianzhao, and Zhao Zheng)

茅台酒進入法國市場 10 周年 限量推出「十年慶」 紀念版茅台酒

Recently, the inauguration ceremony of "Russian-Chinese Center for Economic and Trade Cooperation" and Moutai promotion activity sponsored by Moutai's Russian distributor were held in Russia. The Red Hall at Hotel Metropol Moscow where Mao Zedong met Stalin in 1952 was deliberately chosen as the venue of this event to create a friendlier atmosphere of exchanges between the two countries.

"Russian-Chinese Center for Economic and Trade Cooperation" was jointly established by the Russian Research Center for Asia-Pacific, Far-East Institute of Russian Academy of Sciences, and Russian-Chinese Friendship Association. This center was established to promote the Sino-Russian friendly cooperation of economic, trade, and enterprise communities. Named after Rogachev (Luo Gaoshou), a famous Russian diplomat, a former Russian ambassador to China, and a friend of Chinese people, this center highlights its important role in promoting the economic development of both countries.

Sanakoev, Chairman of the Russian-Chinese Center for Economic and Trade Cooperation, said that in the context of unprecedentedly friendly Sino-Russian relations, through the platform of the Sino-Russian friendship, Moutai came to Russia to hold senior activities. This not only conformed to the international trend and led Moutai to wider international market, but also helped the Russian people to better understand Moutai as well as its culture and history. (Contributed by Guizhou Moutai Chiew I/E Co., Ltd.)

茅台贊助「羅高壽俄中經濟分析中心」成立慶典 近日，由茅台俄羅斯經銷商贊助的「羅高壽俄中經濟分析研究中心」 成立慶典暨推介國酒茅台營銷活動在俄羅斯舉行，會場特意選擇在毛 澤東與史達林 1952 年會面的大都會酒店紅色大廳，更為這次活動營造 了兩國友好往來的氣氛。 羅高壽俄中經濟分析中心由俄羅斯亞太地區研究中心、俄羅斯科 學院遠東研究所、俄中友好協會共同建立，該研究分析中心是為了促

巴黎當地時間 6 月 12 日，茅台集團公司與法國卡慕酒業集團在巴

進兩國經貿企業界的友好合作而創建。該中心選擇以俄羅斯著名外交

黎的參議員餐廳舉辦了合作十周年慶典活動。茅台集團公司黨委委員、

家、中國人民的友好人士前駐華大使羅高壽的名字命名，更彰顯該中

副總經理高守洪一行出席了慶典活動。

心致力於兩國經濟發展的重要作用。

活動開始時，法國乾邑世家卡慕集團總裁西裏爾 ·卡慕（CYRIL CAMUS）對國酒茅台與卡慕的商業合作表達了良好的願景。

該中心主席薩納科耶夫表示，在當今中俄關係空前友好的大背景 下，國酒茅台借著中俄友好關係的平臺來到俄羅斯，參與高層的活動，

不久後的 6 月 30 日，茅台集團公司與法國卡慕酒業集團又在北京

不僅是順應國際大趨勢，讓茅台酒走出更廣的國際市場，也讓俄羅斯

卡慕世家酒廊舉行了合作十周年慶典活動，限量推出 100 瓶「十年慶」

人更進一步瞭解茅台酒，瞭解茅台的文化和歷史。（進出口公司供稿）

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榮獲巴拿馬萬國博覽會金獎百年之際，到貴州品茅台、謀共贏、共譜 醉美華章。 比賽結束後，王崇琳、2012 年奧運競走冠軍陳定和胡軍分別為冠 軍、亞軍和季軍頒獎及合影。 （張靚君 趙政 攝影報導）

Moutai Shined in the 25th Monaco Yacht Show

UPSIDE:

A player was jumping over obstacles with his horse 參賽選手控馬跨越障礙

2015 FEI "Moutai" Sheerwood International Showjumping Grand Prix Held in Beijing On September 19, the 2015 (10th) FEI "Moutai" Sheerwood International Showjumping Grand Prix was held in Beijing and Wang Chonglin, Deputy General Manager of Kweichow Moutai Co., Ltd., attended the opening ceremony. This is in China's equestrian circles the first FEI (Federation Equestre Internationale) two-star contest launched by a club, hosted by the Chinese Equestrian Association, and held by the Sheerwood Beijing Equestrian Country Club. Various stars such as Sun Yue (basketball player), Hu Jun, and Guo Tao were attracted to watch the contest.

Wang Chonglin delivered a speech in the opening ceremony. On behalf of Moutai Group, he expressed his warmly congratulations on the holding of the contest as well as his heartfelt thanks for the long-standing and full supports given from all sectors of society to Moutai Group. Upon Moutai's 100th anniversary of winning the Panama gold award, he also welcomed all guests to Guizhou to savor Moutai, seek win-win cooperation, and create an intoxicating chapter.

At the end of the contest, Wang Chonglin, Chen Ding (2012 Olympic race walking champion), and Hu Jun respectively presented awards to the champion, runner-up, and the third place. They also took a group photo to mark the occasion. (Reported and photographed by Zhang Liangjun and Zhao Zheng)

2015FEI「國酒茅台」第十屆西塢國際場地障礙大 獎賽在京舉行 2015FEI「國酒茅台」第十屆西塢國際場地障礙大獎賽 9 月 19 日在 京舉行，貴州茅台酒股份有限公司副總經理王崇琳出席開幕式。該賽 事是目前中國馬術界第一個由俱樂部發起的、中國馬術協會主辦、北 京西塢鄉村馬術俱樂部承辦的國際馬聯（FEI）二星級賽事。比賽吸引 了男籃國手孫悅、胡軍、郭濤等眾明星到場觀看。 貴州茅台酒股份有限公司副總經理王崇琳在開幕式上致辭，代表 茅台集團對大獎賽的舉辦表示熱烈祝賀，向社會各界長期以來對茅台 集團的大力支持表示衷心感謝，同時也表示，歡迎各界人士在茅台酒

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On September 23, the 25th Monaco Yacht Show (MYS) was opened, continuing its super luxury personality. Many exhibitors and superyachts gathered in this MYS. As one of the three major European yacht shows, MYS, with its impressive yacht scale and allround marine equipment, becomes an annual gala for industry experts and multimillionaires as well as the oldest and most prestigious luxury professional yacht show. As a major highlight of MYS, the 9th "China Night" was also grandly held on September 25.

Kweichow Moutai, as the leading representative of Chinese national brands, also attended this event. In the activity, Moutai presented guests with delicious cocktail. Many guests savored the Moutai cocktail and were very interested in this traditional Chinese liquor. They indicated that they were for the first time savoring the Chinese liquor that uses sorghum as raw material, and were amazed at its taste.

A major highlight of the event was a series of handmade and thematic bottles and glasses specifically designed for Moutai by Segvso, a famous Italian glassmaking brand brought by the Le Rouge team. These bottles and glasses amazed the audience and added Western fashion elements to Moutai, a traditional Oriental brand. (Text: Zhou Min, Photo: Zhou Min and Wang Jiangyue)

貴州茅台閃亮第 25 屆摩納哥國際遊艇展 9 月 23 日，第 25 屆摩納哥國際遊艇展揭幕，延續了其超級奢華個 性。眾多參展商及超級遊艇齊聚本屆摩納哥遊艇展。歐洲三大遊艇展 之一的摩納哥遊艇展憑借其強大的船艇陣容和全面的海事設備，成為 業內專家和富豪們追捧的年度盛會，也是歷史最悠久、最負盛名的豪 華專業遊艇展。作為摩納哥遊艇展一大重頭戲的第九屆中國之夜也於 9 月 25 日盛大舉行。 貴州茅台作為中國民族品牌的領軍代表將亮相此次盛會。活動中， 茅台為嘉賓們送上了可口的雞尾酒，參會嘉賓紛紛前來品嚐，並對茅 台這種中國傳統白酒表示十分有興趣。眾多嘉賓表示，他們都是第一 次品嚐以高粱為原料的中國白酒，並對她的味道讚歎不已。 此次活動的一大亮點是 Le Rouge 團隊帶來了由意大利著名手工吹 制玻璃品牌 Segvso 特意為茅台設計的純手工製作的系列主題酒瓶和酒 UPSIDE:

Moutai in the 25th Monaco Yacht Show 貴州茅台在第 25 屆摩納哥國際遊艇展亮相

2015 Moutai Overseas Distributor Conference: Telling Moutai's Stories Well to the World On November 4, the 2015 Moutai Overseas Distributor Conference was held in Guangzhou. 78 overseas distributor representatives from more than 50 countries and regions such as the United States, Britain, Australia, France, Russia, Japan, South Korea, Baltic States, Hong Kong, and Macau, gathered in the Guangzhou Baiyun International Convention Center to discuss the overall situation of Moutai's overseas markets. Yuan Renguo (Chairman of Moutai Group and Kweichow Moutai Co., Ltd.), Li Baofang (Party Secretary of Moutai Group and General Manager of Moutai Group and Kweichow Moutai Co., Ltd.), and Liu Zili (Technical Consultant of Guizhou liquor industry and Moutai Group) attended the conference. Deputy General Manager of Kweichow Moutai Co., Ltd. Du Guangyi chaired the conference.

At the conference, Yuan Renguo indicated that in the next five years, the overseas markets were expected to achieve an average annual growth rate of more than 15%, Moutai's overseas sales were expected to account for more than 10% of Moutai's total sales by 2020, and the main consumer groups were expected to be transformed from overseas Chinese to Western mainstream consumers; distributors of each country or region should tell Moutai's stories well, integrate Moutai's culture and products with local features, and further exploit non-Chinese and upper-class markets on the based of overseas Chinese markets; Yuan Renguo hoped to increase investment in overseas publicity, further support the distributors excellent in publicity, and run the international edition of "Moutai Magazine" well. He also suggested promoting Moutai in foreign bars, further developing cocktails, and expanding Moutai's fans group.

This year, the following overseas distributors won Moutai's awards: China Food (Hong Kong) Limited and Nichiwa Shoji Co., Ltd. (Distributor Award), France's Camus company, Hong Kong's Glory Regent Industries Ltd., Diamond Hong Inc., and CNS Enterprises

杯，驚豔全場，為茅台這一傳統東方品牌增添了西方時尚元素。 （文 / 周敏 圖 / 周敏 王江月）

Inc. (Advanced Distributor Award), Paris Franchised Store of Cammy France Developpement Ltd. (Excellent Franchised Store Award), Sydney Franchised Store of Evershine Australia Trading PTY Ltd. and Macau Franchised Store of SWH Import & Export Company Limited (Advanced Franchised Store Award). (TEXT / 文 Jocelyn Liao, Billy Yung)

2015 年國酒茅台海外經銷商大會： 講好茅台的海外故事 11 月 4 日，2015 年國酒茅台海外經銷商大會在廣州召開。來自美 國、英國、澳洲、法國、俄羅斯、日本、韓國、波羅的海三國、香港、 澳門等 50 多個國家和地區的 78 家海外經銷商代表齊聚廣州白雲國際會 議中心，共議茅台海外市場大局。茅台集團公司董事長、貴州茅台酒 股份有限公司董事長袁仁國，茅台集團公司黨委書記、總經理、貴州 茅台酒股份有限公司總經理李保芳，貴州省酒業技術顧問、茅台集團 公司技術顧問劉自力出席會議。會議由茅台集團黨委委員、貴州茅台 酒股份有限公司副總經理杜光義主持。 袁仁國董事長在會議上表示，未來五年內，海外市場要力爭實現 年均增長率 15% 以上，到 2020 年，茅台酒海外銷量要占茅台酒總銷量 的 10% 以上，消費群體要力爭從華人市場為主轉向西方主流市場為主 的群體結構。每個國家和地區的經銷商要講好茅台的故事，讓茅台文 化乃至茅台的產品和當地特色相結合，從開拓華人市場走向開拓當地 非華人及上流階層市場；要加大海外宣傳的投入，進一步支持宣傳做 得好的經銷商，辦好茅台《世界之醉》海外版雜誌等。袁仁國董事長還 建議，茅台酒的海外營銷可以進入國外酒吧、開發好雞尾酒；擴大建 立好茅台的粉絲團。 今年茅台海外經銷商獲獎情況如下：獲經銷商獎項的分別是香港 中國食品有限公司、日本日和商社；獲先進經銷商有法國卡慕公司、 香港高正有限公司、美國大文行酒業公司、美國四季公司；優秀專賣 店有法國嘉美公司巴黎專賣店；先進專賣店：澳洲明耀貿易公司悉尼 專賣店、澳門新偉浩出口貿易公司澳門專賣店。

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香飄世界百年 相伴民族復興 The Aroma of a Century The Revival of a Nation