Moutai Magazine - International Edition Issue 12 Summer 2016

12 SUMMER 2016

Exquisite Delicacy 玉盤珍饈 China's Traditional Healthy Recipe with Solar Terms 食之有道：中國傳統的節氣膳食文化 Interview with Howard Cai, Founder of Howard's Gourmet 專訪「好酒好蔡」主理人蔡昊 The World's 50 Best Restaurants in 2016 2016 世界 50 最佳餐廳榜单 Emerging Dining Trends in the World 全球新興飲食流行趨勢 For Fukushima's Saké: An Unpolluted Artisanal Handicraft 福島清酒：無污染的手工釀造精品

The River of Vita 川流不息

www.moutaichina.com

Photo by Li Lewei

CONTRIBUTORS

CHINA KWEICHOW MOUTAI DISTILLERY (GROUP) CO., LTD. Maotai, Renhuai City, Guizhou Province, China 564501 KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD. Maotai, Renhuai City, Guizhou Province, China 564501 Production & Advertising Sales Agent: ER HONGKONG HOLDING LIMITED Room 2103, 21/F, Sino Plaza, No.255-257 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 3580 2598 Fax: (852) 3580 2588 Consultant : Yuan Renguo, Li Baofang, Zhao Shuyue

Johannes Pong Jet-setting travel and food writer Johannes Pong covers the Hong Kong scene. He's also a regular TV personality, and took Travel Channel's Andrew Zimmern out for snake wine on an episode of Bizarre Foods.

Publisher | Francis Wong Chief Executive Officer | Christine Yin Chief Executive Editor | Liao Chenlin Art Director | Johnny Woo Assistant Designer | Yanni Li

Dong Tiezhu

Senior Project Editor | Laura Su, Joey Li

Dong Tiezhu is a holder of Ph.D in Chinese culture at the University of California, Berkeley.

Familiar with both Chinese and Western culture, Dong has been teaching Chinese culture at Wofford College (USA) and United International College (Zhuhai).

Photographer | Li Lewei Translator | Billy Yung, Joey Li, Yanni Li Project PR | Meng Yuan Marketing Executive | Nikita Wan Advertising Enquiry | Tel: (852) 3580 2598 Email | er-hk@everreliable.net

Essence Under the Heaven 滴 水不羼

RIGHTS Moutai Magazine (International Edition) is published quarterly by ER HONGKONG HOLDING LIMITED under a license by KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD. Reprints, copy or use of any content in this magazine whether in whole or in part, shall only be allowed with the explicit written permission of KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD. No responsibility can be taken for unsolicited texts and photographs.

The views and opinions expressed or implied in the articles do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher, editors or the license holder.

All contents in this magazine have been complied with the best of our knowledge, but no warranty or representation is given as to its accuracy, completeness, relevance, timeliness or otherwise.

Moutai Magazine (international edition) appears quarterly with editions published under cooperation or license in two languages.

Sponsor: Top Gainer Industrial Limited

Special Thanks :

"There is no sincerer love than the love of food."

—— George Bernard Shaw The saying "Food is the paramount necessity of the people" reflects the importance of food to Chinese people. In the 12th issue of MOUTAI MAGAZINE International Edition, we focus on worldwide delicacy.

Review the Chinese traditional healthy diet and its food map, Interview with renowned gustation designer Howard Cai, founder of Howard's Gourmet, Take a look at the world's best restaurants, Explore emerging dining trends, Learn how Fukushima's saké becomes an unpolluted handicraft masterpiece, Bring instant noodles to your cruise trip, Attract your taste bud and stimulate your appetite through amazing stories.

Live in Abundance

豐衣足食

「任何一种愛，都不比對美食的熱愛真切。」 ——蕭 伯 納 中國俗語「民以食為天」，在第 12 期《世界之醉》國際版中，我們關注世界美食 : 從節氣回味中國傳統養生之道； 與「好酒好蔡」主理人蔡昊聊聊如何以繡花的姿態經營餐廳； 一覽世界 50 間最佳餐廳的獨到之處； 發現全球新興的飲食趨勢； 探究福島清酒無污染、純手工的精湛技藝； 通過妙趣橫生的飲食故事，尋覓打開味蕾的鑰匙。

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CONTENT

SPECIAL

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China's Traditional Healthy Recipe with Solar Terms

JULY 2016

32

58

40

70

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China's Traditional Healthy Recipe with Solar Terms

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Chinese Original Foods on the Map: Eating in China

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What Do You Eat When Drinking Moutai 茅台酒配菜

食之有道：中國傳統的節氣膳食文化

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Emerging Dining Trends in the World

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For Fukushima's Saké: An Unpolluted Artisanal Handicraft

全球新興飲食流行趨勢

食在中國：源遠流長的美食地圖

福島清酒：無污染的手工釀造精品

ISSUE 12 32

Operating Catering Business: Same as Embroidery Interview with Howard Cai, the Founder of Howard's Gourmet

做餐飲如同繡花：專訪「好酒好蔡」主理人蔡昊 When having meals, Westerners use knives and folks while Chinese use chopsticks. The cover of issue 12 is inspired by Chinese and Western eating tools. No matter how different the culture is in various countries,

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Cruising with Instant Noodles?

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Moutai on the World Map

帶方便面上郵輪？

茅台在全球

they have compatible points.

西方人使用叉子，東方人使用筷子，本期封面靈感來自中西方各異的飲食工具。無 論各個地區的文化如何不同，總有其相容之處。

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The World's 50 Best Restaurants in 2016 2016 世界 50 最佳餐廳榜單

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China's Traditional Healthy Recipe

食之有道

with Solar Terms

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中國傳統的節氣膳食文化 TEXT/ 文 Joey Li IMAGE/ 圖 Thera Chan

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中國的飲食在世界享有盛譽，談起中國的飲食文化，許多人會對中國食譜和菜式的

Chinese food is world-renowned for its nice color, flavor, and taste. Just as the saying goes, "food is the paramount necessity of the people". Since ancient times, Chinese people have regarded eating as a great thing in life and their dietary lifestyle has been deeply influenced by such Chinese culture as the yin and yang theory. Originated from the "Book of Changes", the yin and yang theory believes that all things are the unity of yin and yang. Ancient Chinese used lunisolar calendars that reflected the decrease and increase of yin (moon) and yang (sun) power. They attached great importance to the solar terms and ate different kinds of food to keep healthy along with the changes of nature.

色、香、味讚不絕口，正所謂「民以食為天」，中國人自古就將吃飯視為生活中的一件 大事，其飲食生活方式的形成也深受中國文化的影響。陰陽學起源於《周易》，正所謂 「太極生兩儀，兩儀生四象，四象生八卦」，萬物都處於對立又統一的陰陽兩個方面， 中國傳統飲食習慣往往與大自然的更迭相統一。中國的農曆是「陰陽合歷」，根據季節 的陰陽消長，古代醫者對一年內二十四節氣的飲食歷來研究不斷，普通老百姓的農事和 飲食活動也隨之有着較大變化。 人體的健康與否，決定於陰陽是否調和，如《內經》所說：「陰平陽秘，精神乃治。」

According to Chinese medicine theories, people's health is determined by the balance of yin and yang, just as written in "Huangdi Neijing (The Emperor's Inner Canon)", "when yin and yang are in balance, a person will be healthy". Once yin and yang inside a person lose balance, various symptoms and problems will appear. The symptoms are also classified and explained by yin and yang in Chinese medicine. For example, yang symptoms include fever, thirsty, and fast pulse, while yin symptoms include cold limbs and slow pulse. According to "Huangdi Neijing", "prevailing of yang causes heat and prevailing of yin causes cold". At the same time, the changes of yin and yang in the nature also affect people's health. As a result, the ancients formed their seasonal dietary habits. Most ordinary people could not afford expensive medicines, so they sought regimen methods from their daily diet. These dietary habits are inherited and become today's practices.

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一旦人體陰陽失去平衡後，就會表現出各種症狀。古人對症狀的分類，也是用陰陽來代 表和說明的。陽證，一般表現為發熱、口渴、脈數快等，而陰證一般表現的症狀則是手 足冷、脈遲等，這類症狀，古人又稱為寒證。這就是《內經》所說的：「陽勝則熱，陰 勝則寒。」自然外界的陰陽變化對人體平衡往往也有着重大影響，如冬至吃麵食以果腹， 夏至吃雞蛋以防暑，名貴的中藥並非人人都承擔得起，前人就從日常飲食中尋找養生的 方法，這些習慣延續下來，成為了今天的習俗。

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立春雨水到

Spring Begins and Rain Comes Li Chun is the start of the 24 solar terms. Chinese had early spring

Li Chun

春

立春俗稱「打春」或「咬春」，在古代農家是一年農事

ceremony 3,000 years ago and had formed many fixed customs and

的開始，人們往往吃春捲等慶祝。立春在八卦中對應泰卦，

habits. In ancient times, spring was also the start of farming activities and

呈陽降陰升之態，陰陽交感而天地萬物化生，「晝夜均而寒

people would celebrate with eating spring rolls. In the Eight Diagrams

暑平」，春分時節，萬物化生，花草繁茂的同時細菌也開始

of ancient China, Li Chun corresponds to the "Tai" diagram, which

快速繁殖，流行性傳染病增多，呼吸道傳染病易行。此時正

means a state that yang is declining and yin is rising, and everything

值天地之氣始交之際，天氣變化較以往劇烈，氣候的驟變會

is coming back to life. Meanwhile, the bacteria become very active.

導致人體的平衡失調，陽氣始發，肝火開始旺盛，所以此時

With changeable weather, it's easier to get infected with epidemics or

的飲食調養原則是忌大寒大熱，吃寒性食物佐以溫熱之品，

respiratory diseases. So it's believed that balanced diet is needed and the

服益陽之品佐以滋陰之物，陽性的食物如豬肝、菠菜、韭菜，

food with extreme heat or cold should be avoided; cold or yin property

陰性如蘿蔔等，陰陽調和以保證人體的平衡。

food should be eaten together with warm or yang property food to balance yin and yang inside the body. Yang property food includes pork liver, spinach, and Chinese chives while yin property food includes daikon.

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XIAO MAN

滿 Grain Buds Xiao Man comes at early summer when temperature is rising, rain is increasing, and rivers are all full. It indicates that the hot and humid weather of summer is coming. Therefore, "relieving heat and preventing wet" is the key to the regimen of this solar term. People should avoid the food with powerful yang and humid property, such as sea fish, mutton, and dog meat, and mainly eat mildtasting vegetable dishes. The foods helpful for relieving heat and moisture, such as duck meat, red beans, and mung beans, are also recommended.

小滿江河滿 「小滿小滿，江滿河滿」，夏季初始，氣溫開始升高，雨水開 始增多，因此，小滿節氣的到來往往預示著夏季的悶熱潮濕天氣即 將來臨。所以小滿節氣的養生要「降暑防濕」，避免海魚、羊肉、 狗肉一類陽氣盛、濕氣重的食物，日常飲食應以清淡的素食為主。 肉食如鴨肉以及紅豆、綠豆等雜糧都是消暑祛濕的良品。

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XIA ZHI

夏 Summer Solstice

夏至晝晷已雲極

Xia Zhi marks the coming of midsummer and the

夏至對應乾卦，天地間的陽氣達到極致，進入盛夏，

yang energy in the nature reaches the ultimate. After that

在此以後，陽將漸消逝而陰逐漸增長。這一時節的養生

the yang energy fades away while the yin energy increases

保健，一方面要順應夏季陽盛於外的特點，注意保護陽

gradually. With alternation and coexistence between

氣；另一方面，夏季也是所謂「陰陽爭死生分」的時節，

ultimate yang and increasing yin, people are easy to get

陽消陰長，盛陽覆於陰上，陰始生於其下，陰陽交錯，

sick. In China's Guangdong region, the custom of eating

人易生病。 中國廣東地區盛行夏至吃狗肉的習俗， 稱「吃

dog meat on summer solstice prevails. Ancient people

了夏至狗，西風繞道走」，認為夏至這天吃了狗肉，當

believed that eating dog meat on this day can nourish

年就能祛邪補身，抵御病痛。這一風俗也正是順應了大

the body and avoid evils, disease, as well as pains in the

自然「陰長陽消」的趨勢。夏季天氣炎熱，人體容易食

rest of year. The custom is to follow the natural tendency

慾不振，民間開始偷閒消夏，注意飲食補養，為緊張的

of "increasing yin and decreasing yang". At the same time,

秋季農作做準備，「立夏日，吃補食」的習俗也延續至

there was a saying that eating dumplings in winter and

今。此外，民間常稱夏天是「苦夏」，究其原因就是夏

eating noodles in summer will help to keep body balanced,

天多吃苦味的食物有利於五臟六腑的五行運作，比如苦

especially in Northern China. People are easy to lose

瓜等。還有說法是「冬至餃子夏至麵」，我國很多地區

appetite when it's hot, so they need to eat something that

夏天流行吃涼麵，有消暑開胃的功效，又不至於因寒涼

is nutritious enough for handling the coming autumn

而損害健康。故夏至時節適宜溫補，同時也要注意防暑，

harvest. It is believed that the custom of eating dog

調節內心，如嵇康《養生論》中說：「更宜調息靜心，

meat on summer solstice had been carried on since the

常如冰雪在心，炎熱亦於吾心少減，不可以熱為熱，更

Warring States Period. Warm property nourishment

生熱矣。」身體補食的同時，也應注意調理身心平衡。

is recommended for this period. At the same time, preventing sunstroke, calming the mind, and balancing the body are also important.

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大暑正伏天

Great Heat

夏至極陽之後，大暑在八卦中對應姤卦，表示風中攜陽

Da Shu is the hottest period in a year. Under the unbearable temperature, it's easier to get tired or even suffer from sunstroke. So

熱之氣。從太極圖上看，一陰于外，包陽於內，陽疏散不暢，

preventing sunstroke is the most important thing. People should avoid

故悶熱難耐。大暑是一年中最熱的時候，由於暑氣逼人，人

long-time exposure to the sun, cool the room, and take such helpful

的心氣易於虧耗，所以預防中暑是該時節的養生重點，避免

medicine as Agastache rugosus leaves and licorice to relieve summer heat. Hot weather may cause impatient, exhausted, and inappetent as well. Therefore, people usually eat some mild-tasting foods that can nourish qi and yin, such as yam, sea cucumber, and lotus root, to enhance physical fitness, and eat such foods as mung beans, bitter melon, and Chinese pearl barley to relieve internal heat.

DA SHU

在烈日下暴曬，注意室內降溫的同時，一些消暑的藥材如藿 香葉、甘草等也往往為人所用。「暑」在五行中對應火，而 火生木，肝應木，所以暑熱易動「肝火」，肝火過旺則導致

暑

心煩急躁、精神萎靡、食欲不振等，同時天氣酷熱，出汗較 多，人體更容易耗氣傷陰，大暑節氣，人們往往通過進食一 些益氣養陰且清淡的食物以增強體質，如山藥、海蔘、蓮藕 等，降暑下火的如綠豆、苦瓜、薏米等。

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SHUANG JIANG

霜

Hoarfrost Falls Shuang Jiang is the last solar term of autumn, which also means the beginning of winter. During this period, dews coagulate and become hoarfrost, and cold air is coming. So there will be a big temperature difference between day and night, and it's very cold in both morning and evening. People are easy to be affected by cold weather and get ill. Chinese people believe that Shuang Jiang is the better time than winter for nourishing the body. Beef can benefit qi and strengthen sinews as well as bones; chestnut is helpful for stomach, spleen, kidney, and sinews; yam can nourish yin and moisten lung. All these foods are recommended for autumn regimen.

氣肅而凝為霜降 「氣肅而凝，露結為霜」，故名霜降。此時氣候已漸寒冷，夜晚下霜，晨起陰冷，晝夜 溫差變化大，體質弱或原有慢性疾病的人易因此而感冒、發熱或舊病加重，由於人體血管受 到寒冷刺激後會出現相應的收縮，使血壓升高，心腦血管的發病率也因此上升。所謂「補冬 不如補霜降」，秋天的進補要以「潤燥、固表、益氣」為主，牛肉有補中益氣、強健筋骨的 作用，栗子養胃健脾、補腎強筋，都對秋季養生有比較好的效果，同時秋季吃山藥養陰潤肺， 可以平衡補齊帶來的上火等症狀。

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DA HAN

寒 Great Cold It is the last solar term in a year. The power of yang is reviving after Winter Solstice, but it's still cold and dry during this period. This will aggravate respiratory disease, vasoconstriction, and elevated blood pressure. So in the diet during this period, sufficient calories should be supplied and warm property foods are recommended.

Lotus seeds, jujube, glutinous rice, and chicken can benefit qi inside the body; pork liver and longan can nourish blood; mutton, pork, and venison are good for yang. All these can enhance the ability to resist cold and keep warm.

冬雪雪冬小大寒 在六爻皆陰的冬至之後，陽氣開始逐漸恢復，大寒屬於「黎明前最黑暗的時期」。由於 此時陽之力較弱，天氣仍然寒冷，且陽不足以蒸陰以達地表，所以空氣比較乾燥，這個節氣 的天氣特點就是晴冷而乾燥，會加重呼吸道疾病的症狀，特別是老年人；不僅如此，持續的 低溫也會使人體的血管收縮，血壓升高，心臟工作量增大，因此要特別注意保暖保濕。大寒 期間的飲食應強調熱量供應充足，以溫熱性的食物為主。常用的補氣食品有蓮子、大棗、糯 米、雞肉等，補血食物有豬肝、龍眼肉等，補陽的食物有羊肉、豬肉、鹿肉，都可以增強人 體抗寒保暖的能力。

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疆

XINJIANG

Xinjiang Cuisines are mainly Islamic

SICHUAN

川

湘

HUNAN

Hunan Cuisine emphasizes tasty and

Sichuan Cuisine is famous for its

魯

SHANDONG

Shandong Cuisines are famous for its

江浙

JIANGZHE

Jiangsu and Zhejiang Cuisines

粵 粵

GUANGDONG

Guangdong Cuisine seeks five tastes

cuisines. People there eat more beef and

variable flavors: hot, spicy and fresh. Special

spicy flavor, which is the reason why people

varieties of cooking methods like steam, boil,

include foods from Nanjing, Yangzhou and

and six flavors, and is also good for fresh and

mutton, using methods like quick frying,

dishes include Kung Pao Chicken, Sliced

love it. It is famous for Steamed Fish Head

roast, and brew. Its famous dishes include

so on. Its famous dishes include Frozen

light taste. There're desserts like Steamed

roasting and instant-boiling. This cuisine is

Beef and Ox Tongue in Chili Sauce, and

with Diced Hot Red Peppers, Braised

Steamed Tofu Stuffed with Vegetables,

Trotters, Steamed Minced Pork Balls, and

Dumplings, and dishes like Chicken Stewed

famous for Roast Whole Lamb, Saute Spicy

Mapo Tofu.

Pork in Fermented Black Bean, and Spicy

Braised Prawns, and Sautéed Shredded Pork

Salted Duck.

Snake, Salt Baked Chicken, and Roast

Chicken.

in Sweet Bean Sauce.

Chicken, and Hand-Grabbed Lamb.

川菜 主張「一菜一格，百菜百

粵菜 注重「五滋」( 香、松、軟、

熬、烹、炸、臘、鹽、豉、醋、醬、

蒸、炒，濃而不膩，淡而不薄，酥松

肥、濃 )、「六味」( 酸、甜、苦、辣、

酒、蜜、椒」的多樣做法奠定了魯菜

脫骨而不失其形，滑嫩爽脆而不失其

鹹、鮮 )，清中求鮮、淡中求美。點

的原因。剁椒魚頭、走油豆豉扣肉、

烹調技法的框架，經典菜品有一品豆

味。其名菜有水晶肴蹄、清燉蟹粉獅

心如薄皮鮮蝦餃、乾蒸燒賣，著名菜

麻辣仔雞等，都是名菜佳餚。

腐、油燜大蝦、京醬肉絲等。

子頭、鹽水鴨等。

點還有雞燴蛇、鹽焗雞、燒鵝等。

湘菜 「有味使之出味，無味使

吃牛羊肉，採用爆、烤、涮、燒、醬、

在於講究麻、辣、香，鹹鮮中帶點微

之入味」，強調入味、透味和本味的

扒、蒸的製作方法，著名菜色有烤全

辣。代表菜品有宮保雞丁、夫妻肺片、

關係，香辣入味也是衆多食客喜愛它

羊、大盤雞、手抓羊肉等等，口味重、

麻婆豆腐等。

份量大是它的特色。

魯菜 「蒸、煮、烤、釀、煎、炒、

Goose.

菜、蘇錫菜等地方菜，擅長燉、燜、

味」，取材廣泛，調味多變，其特點

新疆菜 以清真菜系為主，大多

江浙菜 主要包括金陵菜、淮揚

XINJIANG

Chinese Original Foods on the Map

SHANDONG TEXT/ 文 Joey Li

Eating in China

SICHUAN

食在中國 源遠流長的美食地圖

JIANGZHE HUNAN

As we know, China owns a large population, vast territory and abundant resources. The mountains and plateaus, plains and basins give birth to a variety of eating habits in different areas, and create a map of Chinese original foods.

GUANGDONG

衆所周知，中國地大物博，遼闊的版圖上有山川高原，也有平原盆地，於是培養出不 同地區人民風格迥異的飲食習慣， 也形成了這個色彩多樣的美食地圖。

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What Do You Eat 茅台酒配菜

TEXT/ 文 Li Mengyang

When Drinking Moutai

It is known that alcohol should go with dishes, which also fits food, nutrition and health science. Alcohol will affect the process of metabolism and consume protein in the body. So eating protein-rich foods like preserved eggs, groundnuts, chicken, duck, fish and pork can make up the loss.

Chinese liquor has gone through four important developments: distilled liquor without any spice, light fragrance, strong fragrance, and Jiang fragrance, which is represented by Moutai liquor. Then, what dishes should go with Moutai? 所謂喝酒必須下菜，這是符合人們營養衛生科學的。因為飲酒會影響身體的新陳代謝，損耗體內的蛋白 質。因此食用一些含蛋白質多的下酒菜，如松花蛋、花生米、雞、鴨、魚、排骨、瘦肉等菜肴，都很適宜。 中國白酒在歷史上經歷過四次重要的演變。最初是未放任何香料的蒸餾酒，如土燒酒。隨後出現了清香 酒。接著又誕生了濃香酒、兼香酒，直到第四階段的醬香酒。貴州酒最獨到之處就是有醬香味，而醬香又以 茅台為代表，那麼喝茅台酒要配什麼菜呢？

NO.1

Guizhou Sour Soup Fish

貴州酸湯魚

The easiest way is to find the most famous dish in Guizhou, where Moutai comes from. Guizhou people like sour and spicy food, and their most famous dish is sour soup fish. The fish soup is made of native wild tomato, pepper and Chinese herbs, with the fragrant and fresh flavor of fish and ginger; it's an amazing experience to eat the fish with Moutai. At the same time, the fish contains rich nutrition, which matches the healthy idea that Moutai advocates.

Also, the sour soup is helpful to relieve the effects of alcohol on liver. So when drinking liquors with high alcohol content, people can eat some dishes added with vinegar, which can not only satisfy our taste bud, but also protect the body against alcohol's harm. 黔酒配菜，一個最簡單的做法便是，一個地方出 什麼樣的酒就配當地有特色的地方菜，它們之間的搭 配一般就是很好的。貴州人喜酸辣，菜式中以酸湯魚 最為出名。酸湯魚的精華在於湯汁，主要是以貴州當 地的野生番茄、辣椒、中草藥等為原料精製而成。酸 味香醇的湯汁，配合著魚的鮮香、薑的辛辣，吃起來 一口爽滑，酣暢淋漓。除了味道獨特外，酸湯魚的可 貴之處還在於營養豐富，這與茅台酒所宣導的健康飲 酒理念頗為投緣。 同時，酒裡所含的酒精，對肝有一定的刺激作用， 醋有解酒的作用，所以喝高濃度酒時可以吃些醋拌菜 類，或在湯菜裡放點醋。當酸辣醇香的酸湯魚遇上幽 雅細膩、豐滿醇厚的茅台酒，便不只是愉悅了味蕾， 還傳遞了一種健康的飲食理念。當然除了酸湯魚，貴 州還有很多適合配酒的特色菜如宮保雞丁、 竹筒烤 魚，素菜如干鍋茶樹菇和蘸水涼菜（蔬菜、花生等蘸 上辣椒蒜泥等調製的汁）等等。

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NO.3

Smoked Salmon

煙燻三文魚

Some foreign foods are also good choice for Moutai, like smoked salmon, sprinkled with little salt, vanilla, or lemon juice.

It's an integration of Chinese and Western foods, but also a perfect match when you want to drink Jiang-fragrance liquor. 除此以外，西方菜裡面也有兩三樣適合配貴州酒 的菜。比如三文魚，人們從海上撈出三文魚後，迅速 把魚煙熏一下，撒上一點點的鹽或是香草。這種魚在 大酒店一般都作為頭牌冷盤，吃的時候，淋一點檸檬 汁，配上茅台酒，十分美味。

Chaozhou Cold Fish

潮州打冷魚

NO.2

"Daleng" is a special cooking method in Chaozhou; the fish will be cold-stored after being steamed. It's also a good choice for Guizhou liquor. The light flavor of the fish will not affect the fragrance of Moutai. 貴州產的白酒配什麼「外菜」？首先，在粵菜中 如果有一條非常好的清蒸魚，或是潮州菜中「冷魚」， 潮州話叫「打冷」，配貴州酒都是首選。這種魚本身 的做法都不會加很重的調料，太辣或太鹹的做法都會 影響醬香酒在口中收尾的感覺。

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Operating Catering Business: 做餐飲如同繡花 Same as Embroidery Interview with Howard Cai, the Founder of Howard's Gourmet

專訪「好酒好蔡」主理人蔡昊 TEXT/ 文 Liao Chenlin IMAGE/ 圖 Howard's Gourmet, Yanni Li

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Howard C B

y wearing jeans, T shirt and glasses,

Howard Cai was in a casual style on

the day of our interview. He talks very

the runway of your life."

On one hand, such multiple experiences make

Cai's vision clearer and not so easy to get lost or

gently and is like an artist. The day before our

develop bad habits when he looks back to China;

interview, he was just invited to run a family feast

on the other hand, his mastery of integrating the

by Pony Ma, the founder of Tencent company.

chemistry principles into the diet helps him to

Differentiated from other Chinese traditional

deeply understand the changes of ingredients and

chefs, Cai wasn't engaged in the catering industry

temperature. He summed up, "Delicious food

in his early career. He was born in Shantou,

is made by combination, rather than cooking

Guangdong. His first job was a civil servant. After

techniques." When cooking a fish, many chefs

studying in Australia, he moved to the United

think that different tastes come from skills or

States and opened a chemical plant. Several years

experience, but Cai knows that they're the result of

later, he returned to China and opened his first

changes in temperature and protein. "It seems that

restaurant in Guangzhou. By Cai's words: "Starting

good cooking depends on good experience, but

career in catering industry is like entirely changing

actually it's all about theory. The fact is that if the

Howard Cai has maintained the habit of visiting markets……only when you get close to the most natural materials can you truly get information from them. 蔡昊一直保持著逛市場的習慣……只有和最天然的 材料近距離接觸，才能真正了解到它們的信息。

Recently, Chinese gourmet Howard Cai (Cai Hao) appeared on the screen of NASDAQ Tower in Times Square, New York. The screen flashed such a sentence: "There are two kinds of people in the world, those who have dined at Howard's Gourmet, and those who should." It seems a bit exaggerated, but if you know who have been to Howard's Gourmet, you will understand. These celebrities include David Beckham, Nicolas Cage, Pony Ma, Xu Xiaoping, Johnnie To, Tony Leung, Carina Lau, Brigitte Lin, Lu Yu, and Sammi Cheng. So, why many celebrities recommend Howard's Gourmet? 近日，在紐約時代廣場納斯達克塔樓的外屏上，中國美食家蔡昊受邀播放了他的宣傳片。熒屏閃出這麼一句 話：「世界上有兩種人，一種吃過『好酒好蔡』，一種沒有吃過『好酒好蔡』。」這麼說似乎有點誇張，但一看「好 酒好蔡」的坐上賓——大衛碧咸（David Beckham）、尼古拉斯基治（Nicolas Cage）、馬化騰、徐小平、杜琪峰、 梁朝偉、劉嘉玲、林青霞、魯豫、鄭秀文等等，你就知道這一點都不誇張。為何名流如此喜歡這裡呢？

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Howard C When operating catering business, I treat it as embroidering.

You should embroider slowly and carefully.

How the product looks like depends on your self-culture.

經營餐飲得有繡花的姿態。要坐下來慢慢繡。繡的成果視乎你裡面有多少修養。

Cai has maintained the habit of visiting

I even didn't know who they are. Therefore, it is

markets all the time. In Hong Kong, he has been

easier for me to treat them as friends instead of

to such markets as Ap Lei Chau, Mong Kok,

super stars. Howard's Gourmet only treats them as

Kowloon City, Canal Bridge, and Shau Kei Wan.

ordinary guests and provides appropriate service."

Other markets he visited include Taichung night

——Howard Cai 蔡昊

market, farmers market and Billingsgate seafood

Grew Up in a Family of Chinese Baijiu

market in London, as well as Victoria market in Melbourne. In Cai's opinion, only when you get

In addition to food, drinking is also very

success comes from experience, only the related

rapid expansion in the catering business. "I'm

close to the most natural materials can you truly

significant to Cai. As a whisky specialist, he has

masters and chefs own the knowledge. They will

not willing to expand my business at the cost of

get information from them. He always wants to

a drink every day, no matter whisky, wine or

never share this knowledge with other people but

a lower price. When operating catering business,

know what the locals eat and how they make a

Chinese baijiu.

I will because it's only about data." After many

I treat it as embroidering. You should embroider

living.

years' engagement in chemistry industry, for Cai,

slowly and carefully. How the product looks like

cooking now is just a piece of cake.

depends on your self-culture. You can't take out

critic, Cai tasted baijiu since childhood. Now he

Treat Celebrities as Friends

and sell all flowers you embroider once they

Operating Catering Business is Just like Embroidery

still has old package Moutai of 1975, 1976 and 1978 at his home. Talking the differences between

are completed." Cai thinks that many business

Why many celebrities recommend Howard's

baijiu nowadays and 30 years ago, he said, as

models are just one copy after another. Many

Gourmet? Cai smiles and says that is because they

distilled liquor, baijiu has been making progress in

restaurants disappear as the result of eagerness for

need privacy and have strong communication

its brewing techniques; however, in the past day,

The first Howard's Gourmet was opened

quick success. Century-old restaurants will not

value. We cannot say "Howard's Gourmet" is the

baijiu had a lower production quantity but high

in Guangzhou in 2005. Cai didn't establish the

be quickly developed. It keeps improving every

best restaurant, but the environment, taste and

quality. As the number of baijiu drinkers increases,

second one until 10 years later. In 2015, the

detail. "Howard's Gourmet is also changing and

privacy meet the needs of some celebrities exactly.

its quality gets lower for mass production. But

second Howard's Gourmet was opened in Central,

tries to have improvements every day."

There're "sophisticates" in every industry. A

Due to his life in the United States for many

brewing techniques is still progressing. "If let me

years before, Cai doesn't know many mainland

choose my favorite brand in Chinese baijiu, I will

new birth after ten years' preparation", Howard's

so-called "sophisticate" means fixed ideology and

China, Hong Kong, Macao, or Taiwan celebrities.

prefer Moutai as it has stable quality."

Gourmet is quite different from those who pursue

weak motivation, which is very dangerous.

"As some of the stars came here for the first time,

Hong Kong. Just as a Chinese saying goes, "a

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Influenced by his father, a Chinese baijiu

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Howard Cai 接受訪問當天，「好酒好蔡」創辦人蔡昊如平時一樣戴

著眼鏡，身著牛仔褲、T 恤，說話十分斯文。前一天，他剛 給騰訊創始人馬化騰辦了一次家宴。與傳統意義上的廚師不 同，出生於廣東潮汕的他，年輕時曾是一名公務員，後留學 澳洲，又輾轉到美國開化工廠，再回到中國廣州從事飲食。 用蔡昊的話說「做餐飲純粹是換跑道換出來的」。

If let me choose my favorite brand in Chinese baijiu, I will prefer Moutai as it has stable quality.

這樣多重的經歷，一方面讓蔡昊能用外面的眼光更加清

晰地回看中國，不容易迷失，也不容易養成固有的壞習慣； 另一方面，他將化學的原理融會貫通到飲食上，掌握了食材

白酒裡面，如果讓我選，我還是比較喜歡喝茅台， 因為茅台是相對穩定的品牌。

和溫度變化，總結出「好吃是組合出來的，而不是煮出來的」。 如何做一條魚，煎、焗還是煮，想吃腥點的，還是焦一點， 別人常說靠技巧或者經驗，而蔡昊則知道這是溫度及蛋白質

——Howard Cai 蔡昊

變化的結果。「聽起來很像是經驗，其實應該是理論。如果 大家往經驗走，就變成大師、大廚獨有的東西，他們不會拿

出來分享。但我會，因為這些都是數據而已。」做化學多年， 讓蔡昊回頭看飲食這件事，其實並不難。

經營餐飲如同繡花 2005 年，廣州第一家「好酒好蔡」工作室成立。直到 2015 年，蔡昊才開設了位於香港中環的第二家，可謂十年 磨一劍。「好酒好蔡」不同於那些追求迅速擴張的餐飲企業， 「做大做便宜，我是不願意的。經營餐飲得有繡花的姿態。 要坐下來慢慢繡。繡的成果視乎你裡面有多少修養。而不是 說我繡了兩朵花，我就拿出去賣。」蔡昊感嘆，許多商業模 式就是複製再複製，不少知名餐廳，就是因為開得太快、太 多而倒閉了。百年老店永遠不會很快就能發展起來，它不斷 提升每一個細節。「好酒好蔡」的菜式也每天都在變化著。 每一個行業，都有「老油條」。到了「老油條」的狀態， 代表著這人思想已經固化、動力開始減弱，保持現狀是十分 危險的。 一直以來，蔡昊都保持著逛市場的習慣。到香港以後， 鴨脷洲、旺角、九龍城、鵝頸橋、筲箕灣等菜市場，他全部 都去過；到台灣，他逛台中夜市；在倫敦逛 Billingsgate 的 海產市場、農夫市場；以前居住在墨爾本，他常去維多利亞

情，只需到位就好了。」

市場……在他看來，只有和最天然的材料近距離接觸，才能 真正了解到它反饋給自己的信息。當走訪不同的城市，他都

白酒世家成長

想了解當地人吃什麼，如何生存。

除了食物，喝酒也是蔡昊工作的一部分，身兼威士忌評

接待名流，恰到好處

酒師，他每天都會喝酒。無論威士忌、紅酒或是國內的白酒， 他都會喝。

至於「好酒好蔡」為何總能獲得名流的青睞，蔡昊笑說，

由於父親是白酒評鑑師，蔡昊自小接觸白酒，家裡還存

只能夠解釋他們的圈子小，傳播力強，不能說名流的到來能

著 1975、1976、1978 年的紙樣包裝的茅台酒。談到 30 年前

完全證明「好酒好蔡」特別好吃，或者他們特別喜歡。味道、

的白酒和現在何不同時，他說，白酒作為蒸餾酒，工藝永遠

環境、舒適程度乃至私隱都是他們考慮的因素。而「好酒好

在進步，不會退步的，不過因為以前產量不高，專注度就比

蔡」剛好符合名流的需求。

較高，現在可能為了量產，喝的人多了為了迎合而做了，有

由於在美國居住多年，很多國內或港澳台的名流蔡昊未

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的白酒品質會下降了，但品質下降不等於工藝下降了。「白

必知道。「有時候一些名流第一次來，我也不知道他們是誰，

酒裡面，如果讓我選，我還是比較喜歡喝茅台，因為茅台是

這樣可能更加好，更容易和他們當朋友。我們也不會特別熱

相對穩定的品牌。」

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The World's 50 Best Restaurants in 2016

英國的媒體掌握著不少世界飲食評鑑的話語權。如，英國飲料行業 權威雜誌《國際飲料》 （Drinks International）每年發布全球 50 間最佳酒吧， 而另一飲食界的權威聲音《餐廳雜誌》（Restaurant）則常年進行「世界 50 最佳餐廳」的評選。近日，《餐廳雜誌》公佈了 2016 年的榜單。在 前 10 位中，意大利的 Osteria Francescana 奪得冠軍，另有 3 家餐廳來自 西班牙，而中國上榜前 50 的有香港置地文華東方酒店的餐廳 Amber 及 號稱全世界第一个感官餐廳的上海 Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet。本文將介紹 2016 世界 50 最佳餐廳前 8 名。

2016 世界 50 最佳餐廳榜單 EDIT/ 編 CL IMAGE/ 圖 Official Media Center

Many British media maintain the worldwide diet evaluation. For example, the UK beverage industry magazine "Drinks International" annually publishes the "World's 50 Best Bars" list, while another authoritative voice of the catering industry "Restaurant" publishes the "World's 50 Best Restaurants" selection. Recently, the "Restaurant" magazine established the "World's 50 Best Restaurants" list. Italian restaurant Osteria Francescana ranks No. 1, while three Spanish restaurants are in the top 10 list. Two Chinese restaurants were chosen by the committees including Amber from Hong Kong Landmark Mandarin Oriental Hotel and Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet from Shanghai. Below is the top 8 list.

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Osteria Francescana 42

NO.1 Osteria Francescana Modena, Italy

意大利 摩德納

Osteria Francescana is located in the in Modena, a northern Italian city. The city is famous for Parmigiano cheese and "Slow Food, Fast Cars". It is also known as "the Capital of Engine" as many of the famous Italian sports car brands such as Ferrari, Lamborghini, and Maserati, have factories here.

"Never Trust a Skinny Italian Chef." An advertising video of Osteria Francescana describes its 53-year-old chef-owner Massimo Bottura like this. But in a country whose food culture is deeply conservative, that is a daring and sometimes controversial path to take. Bottura has not only drawn global plaudits and worldwide custom, but also won over his own nation's critics. Unusually for such an exalted restaurant, it still offers two tasting menus. Of these, Sensations is the progressive, seasonal everchanging showpiece; Tradition in Evolution is something of a greatest hits compilation.

The famous Five Ages of Parmigiano Reggiano explores the region's esteemed cheese via temperature, texture and, of course, taste.

Conversely, his wife, Lara, is an American and "Autumn in New York" reflects his international vision: pickled and preserved fall vegetables are combined with a mineral broth featuring dried mushrooms and pumpkin concentrate, with spectacular results.

Osteria Francescana 位於意大利北部城市摩德納。這座 城市因產出了世界上最著名的奶酪品種（帕馬森乾酪）以及 慢食、快車的生活方式而得名。它還被譽為「引擎之都」， 因許多意大利著名跑車品牌，如法拉利、藍寶堅尼、瑪莎拉 蒂等，都將工廠設在這裡。 「永遠不要相信一個身材瘦削的意大利廚師。」Osteria Francescana 宣傳短片中對其 53 歲的主理人 Massimo Bottura 是這麼形容的。在一個飲食文化非常保守的國家中，他採取 了大膽、有爭議的方式變革傳統飲食，贏得了尊重。不同於 同等聲譽的餐廳，它提供了兩個菜單選擇，一種是季節型的， 一種是意大利傳統型的。 重點關注「五個時期的帕馬森乾 酪」， 大師通過對溫度和質地的把控，使它成為了最佳的 奶酪；相反，「紐約的秋天」體現了 Bottura 的國際視野和 影響（他的妻子勞拉，是美國人），是秋季蔬菜、含濃縮南 瓜和香菇的肉湯的組合。 MOUTAI Magazine

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El Celler de Can Roca NO.2

Catalunya, an hour or so north-east of Barcelona. The spacious, purpose-

El Celler de Can Roca

working-class suburb of Taiala. It's also a heaven of wine-lovers, a

El Celler de Can Roca is in the small provincial city of Girona in

built restaurant secreted behind a discreet entrance passageway. It has attractive medieval old town behind and head to the nondescript triangular glass-walled modernist dining room and a contemporary

Girona, Spain 西班牙 赫羅納

tasting menu that draws extensively from the Catalan terroir, while also taking cues from around the world.

The three Roca brothers are each global leaders in their respective fields—Joan as a chef, Josep as a sommelier and Jordi as a patissier— so their combined creativity is almost overwhelming. But their warm fraternal dynamic also pervades the whole atmosphere of this unique, and hugely popular, restaurant.

現代飯廳， 富含泰羅尼亞風土氣息並融會世界美食精華的 菜單。 這是一個三兄弟共同經營的家族餐廳。瓊是主廚，約瑟 夫是侍酒師，僑迪是點心師。該餐廳的經典之作包括伊比利

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El Celler de Can Roca 位於西班牙城市赫羅納，在巴塞

亞烤乳豬和多層次的蝦。經營者不斷要求進步，不允許 El

羅那往東北部驅車一小時可到達的城市。這個城市保留著中

Celler de Can Roca 僅僅停留在現有的讚譽中。近年來，三

世紀古老的城區。餐廳位於一個不起眼的入口通道後面。它

兄弟每逢八月就會短暫關閉餐廳，走訪南美、土耳其、美國

擁有葡萄酒愛好者所喜歡的寧靜的酒窖，三角形玻璃幕牆的

等地不斷拓寬視野，並從這些旅途中，吸收新的烹飪經驗。

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NO.3 Eleven Madison Park New York, USA

美國 紐約

The name of Eleven Madison Park restaurant

Eleven Madison Park 餐廳的名稱正好反

just reflects its location. Co-owners New Yorker

應了它的地理位置——紐約麥迪遜大道 11

Will Guidara and Swiss born chef Daniel Humm are

號。餐廳的兩位合夥人分別是紐約客 Will

always focusing on breaking down the boundaries

Guidara 和瑞士出生的大廚 Daniel Humm。

between the kitchen and the dining room, so

他們一直關注如何打破餐廳和廚房的界限，

the whole experience at Eleven Madison Park is

讓客人在這裡體驗到兩者之間的和諧。由於

harmonious. Front-of-house staff are so intimately

服務生非常熟悉菜單，使得 Eleven Madison

familiar with the dishes that service becomes an art,

Park 的服務甚至變成了一種藝術。 配合典

and the chef often tailors his food to the individual

雅、略微復古的裝修，Eleven Madison Park

diner, creating quirky personalized dishes.

的廚師總能為客人提供又快又好的個性化訂

The co-founders recently cut their tasting menu

製晚餐。

down from 14 courses to about seven, with the idea

Guidara 和 Humm 將原來的 14 道主菜

to shorten the meal slightly and give more attention

減到了 7 道，希望給客戶更多的時間關注每

to each individual dish. Some of Humm's classics

一道菜。不過，這裡面並沒有減去 Humm

remain, including the perfectly cooked honey and

的經典之作，包括完全熟的蜂蜜、薰衣草烤

lavender roast duck and a playful dessert "'game'

鴨和俏皮的甜點「給牛奶起名的遊戲」，甜

of 'Name That Milk'", featuring Mast Brothers

點裡有布魯克林著名的 Mast Brothers 手工

chocolate.

巧克力。

Eleven Madison Park will open a fast-casual restaurant called Made Nice in New York, and

他們還在紐約諾瑪德酒店附近以及洛杉 磯諾瑪德酒店開設了分店。

they're also working on a second NoMad hotel in Los Angeles.

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Central 4,100 meters, highlighting the Peruvian ingredients that grow at various elevations. On a recent trip to Aija in the Andes, Martínez harvested wild oca and Andean yams when met a man fermenting ocas in river water, cooking the tuber below the ground on hot stones, inspiring the dish "Tallos extremos".

NO.4 Central Lima, Peru

秘魯 利馬

Central 是一家當代秘魯餐廳，食物注重於探究秘魯生態 的多樣性，給客人從亞馬遜到太平洋海岸的味蕾體驗。大廚 Virgílio Martínez 非常熱衷於外遊，到達過安第斯山脈、大洋、 極地、雨林等，研究食材的多樣性。他發現秘魯的食材和前 西班牙時代安第斯山脈的居住者使用的食材相似。 Central is a modern Peruvian restaurant exploring the diversity of

海平線 20 米以下到海拔 4100 米的山上，都有 Central

Peruvian ingredients. Chef Virgílio Martínez and his team love travel.

可選擇的食材。 最近， Martínez 遊歷了安第斯山的艾加，

They've been to the jungle, desert, mountains and sea at every altitude.

收穫了新鮮的圓齒酢漿草和安第斯山藥，看到有人將圓齒酢

They hope they can take guests on a culinary expedition through Peru's

漿草在河水中發酵，把塊莖放在地底下的石頭上煮熟，啟

ecosystem, from the Amazon to Pacific coast.

發 Martínez 發明了新菜「Tallos extremos」。值得注意的是，

Central's ingredients are from 20 meters below sea level and up to 48

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NO.5 NOMA Copenhagen, Denmark

丹麥 哥本哈根

NOMA was the champion of "2014 World's 50 Best Restaurant".

OMA

"Noma" stands for "nordisk" (Nordic) and "mad" (food) in Danish. The restaurant is located at the Christianshavn district in Copenhagen and next to a marina, hidden in a 250-year-old warehouse. The external walls of the building still retain its original appearance. NOMA is full Nordic simple style and has 40 tables.

Chef René Redzepi likes modern naturalistic style of cooking Nordic food and domestic agricultural products. Vegetables and foraged ingredients take central stage. Simple-sounding dishes such as apples, lemon thyme, cabbage leaves, white currants, new Danish potato, nettle, sliced raw squid, and kelp provide explosions of taste and texture.

NOMA 曾是 2014 年全球 50 家最佳餐廳的冠軍。餐廳 名字中的「Noma」是丹麥文 「nordisk」（北歐 ） 和「mad」 （食物 ）的縮寫。餐廳地處哥本哈根 Christianshavn 區一座 碼頭旁，隱藏在一座 250 年古倉庫中，建築的外牆依然保留 著最初的外觀。餐廳裡設計揮灑著北歐簡約風格的氣息，大 約有 40 桌。 主理人 René Redzepi 使用現代的烹飪方法更新北歐食物， 主要應用北歐食材，尤其是丹麥傳統菜式，十分鼓勵本地的 農產品。在菜單中，從前菜到甜點基本上有 5 道，蔬菜和配 菜是其中的核心，包括譬如蘋果、檸檬百里香、白菜葉、白 葡萄乾、丹麥新土豆、蕁麻、切片生魷魚和海帶等。

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Mirazur

NO.6 Mirazur Menton, France

法國 蒙頓

Mirazur restaurant is in Menton, a southern French city which is near the Italian border. Mirazur relies on sea cliff and is in a 1930s castle.

Customers can have bird's-eye view of the harbor and enjoy the beautiful scenery of the Mediterranean coast.

Argentinian-Italian chef Mauro Colagreco makes his cuisine owe as much to Italy and his own heritage. Mirazur's cuisine is also influenced

by France, Italy and Spain cuisine and has seasonal character. Colagreco's secret weapon, bolstering his own backyard farm and web of suppliers, is the market of Ventimiglia, a rich source of just-picked heirloom vegetables and sparkling-fresh seafood. Picture green beans so tiny, tender and full of sunshine that they steal the show right out from under the spoonful of caviar they're served with. Menton's famous lemons make anchovy fillets set on fried anchovy skeletons pop and sing, while a dish Colagreco simply calls "Green" combines garden peas, fennel and even kiwi fruit in a tribute to freshness.

Mirazur 餐廳位於法國南部接近意大利邊境的城市蒙頓， 它靠著臨海的懸崖邊，一棟 30 年代修的古堡內，可以鳥瞰 整個海港和地中海海岸秀麗景色。 阿根廷裔的意大利籍主廚 Mauro Colagreco 似乎更偏向 意大利的口味。Mirazur 的菜餚受到法國、意大利、西班牙 和阿根廷的多重影響，季節性特徵明顯，菜單也會經常變化， 各種南美香料都可以在這裡找到蹤跡，他的秘密武器除了自 己種植蔬果以外，就是在意大利北部城市文帝米莉亚搜羅新 鮮採集的蔬菜和海鮮。蒙頓著名的檸檬被運用在鳳尾魚片的 菜餚里，魚片架在油炸過的魚骨上，這一道菜 Colagreco 被 簡單地稱呼為「綠色」，他們在花園裡種植了豌豆、茴香甚 至奇異果，Mauro Colagreco 希望盡可能地將菜餚的新鮮感 發揮出來。

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NO.7 Mugaritz San Sebastian, Spain

西班牙 圣塞瓦斯蒂安

"A powerhouse of creativity hidden in the green hinterlands of the Basque country" is the best description of Mugaritz which is located in San Sebastian, a northern district in Spain. It's a beautiful coastal city nearby the Atlantic Ocean and near France. The city has less than 200,000 populations but there're three Michelin-star restaurants which is described as the highest concentration Michelin-starred restaurant place in the world.

Its chef Andoni Luis Aduriz is considered by many observers to be the natural heir to the title of Spain's most pioneering chef after Ferran Adrià. Basque cuisine often combines elements from the mountains and the sea, and so it is at Mugaritz where the menu might roam from oyster, young garlic omelet, pig tails and squid, via a crunchy "sandwich" of local cheese presented in a book, to a loin of lamb smoked over eucalyptus and served with "its cultivated wool".

One of the funniest things about Mugaritz is "play games", whether it's the waiters throwing a curve-ball for the wine lovers at the table with a mystery bottle, or the presentation of chocolate petit fours in stacked oak boxes designed to allude to the seven deadly sins. 在西班牙巴斯克區的綠色腹地裏隱藏了一個具有創造力 的廚房——Mugaritz 餐廳。該餐廳位於西班牙北部聖塞瓦斯 蒂安區，臨近大西洋，這區離法國最近，是座美麗的海岸城 市。這裡不到 20 萬的人口中，誕生了 3 家米芝蓮星級餐廳， 可謂全世界米芝蓮星級餐廳密集度最高的地方。 餐廳的主理人、分子廚藝大師 Andoni Luis Aduriz，被 許多觀察家認為是自然繼承人弗蘭阿德裏亞之後西班牙最先 鋒的廚師。巴斯克有山有海，所以 Mugaritz 的食材有牡蠣、 新鮮大蒜煎蛋、豬尾巴、魷魚等，通過在一本書中提取出的 當地奶酪脆脆「三明治」，以桉樹熏過的羊肉裏脊。 在 Mugaritz 品嚐美味最有趣的就是顧客可體驗到不經 意的驚喜，無論是他們在餐桌上扔曲線球為葡萄酒愛好者提 供一個謎瓶亦或是用巧克力小蛋糕暗示七宗罪堆放橡木盒子 的演示文稿，Mugaritz 總是把遊戲寓於品嚐美食中。

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Narisawa NO.8 Narisawa Tokyo, Japan

日本 東京

Narisawa is a new Japanese style French restaurant which was opened in Tokyo's non-touristy district of Minami Aoyama by Japanese renowned chef Yoshihiro Narisawa. Narisawa cooks seasonal Japanese food with a French style combing Japanese spirits and creative molecular cuisine. Like many other Michelin-star restaurant, it doesn't provide menu choice.

Narisawa left home when he was 19 years old and spent eight years learning in Europe's most venerated kitchens, including those of Joël Robuchon and Paul Bocuse. In 1996, he returned home to Japan and opened La Napoule in Kanagawa Prefecture. Seven years later in 2003, he moved to his current venue and formed Les Créations de Narisawa.

When the restaurant celebrated its eighth anniversary, it was renamed Narisawa. The menu comprises sustainable ingredients that are faithful to the environment and the seasons, so a dinner at Narisawa is a journey in Japanese seasonality and culture.

Narisawa is one of the best places to wine lovers. It has Pinot Noir from Nagano, Riesling Lion from Iwate, and aged Bordeaux-style blends from Yamagata.

2003 年，Narisawa 餐廳於東京都港區南青山開業，由 日本著名主廚成澤由浩主理，是一家新式的法國餐館。成澤 用法式烹飪的技術烹煮日本時令食材，融合了日本精神和創 意分子料理技藝，可謂日本最佳法國餐廳。它和許多米芝蓮 餐廳一樣，不提供可選菜單。 成澤由浩 19 歲離家學藝，用了 8 年的時間在喬·盧布 松和保羅·博古斯等歐洲著名的廚房學藝。1996 年，他回 到家鄉日本神奈川縣開設餐廳 Napoule。2003 年，他搬到南 青山東京的非旅遊觀光區，成立了當時名為 Les Créations de Narisawa 餐廳，當餐廳開業第八年時，更名 Narisawa。 Narisawa 也是世界上品嚐日本酒的最佳場所。客人可以 在這裡品嚐到長野的黑比諾從、岩手縣的雷司令、山形縣有 一定年份的波爾多風格的酒等等。 56

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Emerging

Dining Trends 全球新興 in the World 飲食流行趨勢 TEXT/ 文 Yanni Li

IMAGE/ 圖 Sambazon

The trend of food and beverage has been gradually changed along with the development of Internet Technology, the focus on food safety, and the pursuit of healthy lifestyle. The O2O （online to offline） food delivery enterprises bring a "Food Delivery" revolution; people's tastes become more diverse; the needs of social sharing lead to the dishes art; to pursue healthy living, people around the world tend to eat "naked food"; in addition, dietary therapy becomes a rising health culture in Europe. 隨著互聯網科技發展的推動，人們對食品安全的關注，對健康生活方式的追求，飲食趨勢也漸漸 地發生了改變。而這些改變包括：O2O （線上到線下）「外賣」革命的流行；飲食口味上，人們更 追求味蕾的多層刺激；社交分享的需求令飲食界開始注重食物賣相的創新；人們對健康飲食的認識不 再局限於「素」還開始關注「裸」；另外，歐洲地區更是興起「食療」的飲食文化。

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Food Delivery Revolution 「外賣」革命流行

T

由 於 全 球 互 聯 網、 科 技 創 新 的

的 Munchery 等，不少傳統餐飲企業，

technology innovations has an

熱潮，市面的外賣送餐科技企業數量

如香港翠華茶餐廳，也開設了自己的網

impact on the dietary behavior of

也越來越多，人們的飲食消費習慣也

上智能程式訂餐以及外賣送餐服務。

consumers and more and more people prefer

隨之而改變——喜歡訂外賣的人更多

O2O 外賣模式的服務讓就餐變得更方

food delivery. The O2O food delivery model

了。其中知名的應用包括中國的餓了

便快捷，人們現在只要在智能手機里選

makes dining easier and faster, and produces

麼、 美 團 外 賣、 百 度 外 賣， 德 國 的

擇喜愛的餐館下單喜愛的菜式，外賣就

many famous food delivery companies,

Foodpanda，英國的 Deliveroo，提供歐

可以送到消費者的手上。這正迎合著都

including China's "Ele.me", "Meituan

洲高端餐廳外送的 Take Eat Easy、面

市人快節奏生活的需求。人們不再需要

Takeout", and "Baidu Takeaway", Germany's

向大眾化的 Delivery Hero, 美國食物外

收集不同餐館的外賣餐單，足不出戶就

"Foodpanda", Britain's "Deliveroo", Europe's

送鼻祖 GrubHub、提供私人訂製外賣

可以有更多的選擇去解決吃的問題。

he megatrend of Internet and

"Take Eat Easy" for high-level restaurants and "Delivery Hero" for public market, as well as America's food delivery founder "GrubHub"

Multi-Layered Adventure of Taste Buds

and "Munchery" that provides customized orders. Many traditional restaurants such as Hong Kong's Tsui Wah Restaurant also set up

追求味蕾的多層刺激

their own food delivery services. Nowadays, you only need to tap your smartphone and order your favorite dishes from your preferred restaurant, and the food will come to you. This perfectly meets the need of fast-paced citizens.

People no longer need to collect menus from

People's tastes for food are more diversified

different restaurants and have more choices to solve their dining problem without going out.

pickle which they don't like at the beginning.

and fusion dishes are very popular in recent

They also add pickle into their local dishes.

years. The ingredients, cooking methods, and

Moreover, according to the US National

condiments from different cultures of the world

Restaurant Association's 2015 top food

are integrated with each other and bring much

taste charts, the flavor of Africa is becoming

surprise. More specifically, having got tired of

the fastest-rising food flavor. Many African

mediocre food, people are looking for more

characteristic ingredients such as Berbere and

excitements for their taste buds.

Harissa are used in common dishes like boiled

In China, besides the new fusion dishes created from the cuisines of different provinces,

pork and broiled fish now.

What's more, people begin to dabble

there are more and more fusion dishes mixed

strange flavor. Flavor is not just sour, sweet,

with Chinese and Western elements. Take

bitter, spicy and salty but multi-layered. For

traditional drinks Hakka Lei Cha as an example.

example, South Korean restaurant Jinjuu

Traditional Hakka Lei Cha is made from ginger,

in London has pickle cocktail. New York's

raw rice and tea; however, many drink stores

Blue Hill restaurant launches the yogurt with

nowadays launch new Lei Cha mixed with milk

tastes of beets, carrots, and sweet potatoes.

foam and even Latte Lei Cha.

The emergence of these foods indicates that

Europe, North America, Australia and other countries have also gradually accepted

people's tastes have changed and become more diverse.

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人們在食物口味上更追求多樣化 了。國內外融合菜式近年大行其道。世

面上的飲品店鋪推出在傳統擂茶中加入 奶泡的新飲品，甚至還有拿鐵擂茶。

例如燒肉、燒魚。

Taste innovation has long been regarded as

除了融合菜式，人們還開始涉獵各

the core of dining innovation, but with people's

dinnerware is like the canvas of the chef. Food

界各地的飲食從食材、烹飪到調味香料

而歐洲、北美洲，還有澳大利亞

種奇異的味道。 味道不再只是酸甜苦

growing demand of social sharing, more and

ingredients are willfully distributed on the

都不斷融合，創造了不少驚喜。更特別

等國都漸漸接受了一開始他們比較抗拒

辣，而是多層次的。例如倫敦的 Jinjuu

more food aesthetic innovations are emerging.

containers and connected by various creative

的是，人們開始厭倦普普通通的食物，

的亞洲發酵食品的味道，例如泡菜。

韓國餐廳 , 出現了浸泡著泡菜的雞尾酒。

Many people like to share food on social media

condiments and sauces.

尋找更多味蕾上的刺激。

他們將泡菜加入自己本土的不同菜式

今年紐約 Blue Hill 飯店推出了包含甜

and consequently form a "camera first " habit.

在中國，除了出現不同菜系融合的

當 中。 不 僅 如 此，National Restaurant

菜、胡蘿蔔、甜土豆口味的酸奶。這些

According to the research of American food

新菜式之外，還出現了不少中西融合的

Association 的 2015 年熱門食物排行榜

飲食產品的出現，都意味著人們口味變

菜式，就如傳統的飲品客家擂茶。原本

提到非洲味道正成為上升速度最快的食

得更多樣化了。

傳統的客家擂茶，是用生薑、生米、生

物風味。不少非洲特色配料 Berbere、

茶磨成糊狀烹煮而成。而現今，不少市

Harissa 等被用於普通餐館的菜式當中，

味覺創新長期以來被視為飲食創新 的核心，但隨著人們社交分享需求愈來 愈大，食物賣相創新也被提上了議程。 很多人喜歡將食物圖分享到社交媒體，

Eat With Your Eyes 相機先食 賣相創新

People begin to dabble strange flavor.

Flavor is not just sour, sweet, bitter, spicy and salty but multi-layered.

導致不少人養成了「相機先食」的飲食 習慣。根據美國權威飲食產業研究公司 Technomic 的數據，美國人開始拋棄用 碟而選用碗來盛載食物，用碗作為菜式 食具比以往上升了 29.7% 的使用率。 而這其中之一的原因源於社交分享的需 求。有「用碗」愛好者表示，一張照片

除了融合菜式，人們還開始涉獵各種奇異的味道。 味道不再只是酸甜苦辣，而是多層次的。

industry research firm Technomic, Americans

中，用碗作為食用器皿，能比用碟承載

begin to ditch plates and use bowls, and bowls

更多的食物。而這樣裝擺食物，被拍攝

have seen a 29.7% rise in the entrée category.

出來通常也會顯得更好看，分享到社交

One of the reasons is the social sharing need.

媒體中亦更受人歡迎。

Some "bowl" lovers claim that a bowl contains

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另外， 香港也掀起藝術甜品的風

more food than a plate, which usually makes

潮。食物的賣相不再緊靠以往工工整整

photos look better.

的擺盤方式，又或者是雕花等細緻工藝，

In addition, Hong Kong is starting a new

62

through such creative ways as painting. The

現在還有仿如藝術油畫的創作方式。承

wave of artistic desserts. The appearance of

載食物的用具更像是廚師、 點心師的

food is demonstrated not only through orderly

畫布。食材肆意地分佈在食具的各處，

layout or such fine crafts as carving but also

並用不同新奇的配料、醬汁連接起來。

63

Not Only Vegetarian Diet 健康飲食不僅要「素」

But Also "Naked Food" 還要「裸」

Nowadays, healthy eating is not a brand

popular in Hong Kong. The largest difference

new topic, but the mainstream topic. Many

between craft beer and the ordinary large-

people have joined the "vegetarian" tide in

volume produced beer is that craft beer is

order to be healthier. Besides, there is a fever

usually produced in small amounts by a local

of "naked food", which means natural additive-

or small private brewery; it contains less sugar

free food.

and almost no artificial additives. Nowadays,

In recent years, restaurants around the world are starting a new wave of "Neo-

"additive-free" seems to become the keyword of choosing food.

Nordic Diet", as the neo-Nordic restaurant

"Naked Food" brings out the global

Noma frequently listed in the world's top 10

movement of "Eat Local", which suggests

restaurants. Neo-Nordic food follows some

choosing and buying local ingredients.

rules: 1) Use the local ingredients; 2) Eat the

Although the development of global

right seasonal food; 3) Localize and simplify

transportation and e-business makes it easier

the process of cooking, without using too many

for us to eat different ingredients from all over

spices or cooking techniques, so as to render

the world, but at the same time, it's hard to

natural flavor of the ingredients. This trend

track the backgrounds of these ingredients. In

prevails because of people's pursuit of healthy

order to easily ensure that the delivered food

diet and their food preferences—"naked food".

is natural and fresh, people tend to consume

Even more interestingly, people are no longer

more local ingredients. Thus, the Chinese

afraid of "fat" as long as it is natural animal fat

popular "village cuisine" is spread to the United

instead of artificial fat. This also indicates that

States. Located in farms, these restaurants have

people's awareness of healthy diet is not limited

direct and abundant supply of fresh and healthy

to "vegetarian" any longer.

ingredients. Nowadays, running a "village

Besides food, drinks also pay attention to

cuisine" restaurant has become a fashion

"naked". Australia Tourism Bureau pointed

of America's catering industry. New York's

out that a "naked wine" was being popular in

"Stone Barns Blue Hill Farm" is one of these

Australia. With a relatively simple taste, this

restaurants. It recently won the James Beard

so-called "naked wine" is usually the pure

Foundation Awards, the most authoritative

wine brewed by the winery, without using too

benchmark in America's food and beverage

many artificial processes or adding flavoring

industry.

essence and seasoning. Similarly, craft beer is 64

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65

今時今日，健康飲食不再是嶄新的

是純天然非人工的動植物脂肪，人們也

流行一種「本土食」的運動——倡導人

話題，而是一種主要潮流。不少人為求

樂於去食用。這也說明了人們對健康飲

們選擇和購買本地的食材食用。雖然全

健康紛紛加入「素食」大潮，除此之外

食的認識，不再僅僅局限於「素食」了。

球交通科技、電商的發展使我們更容易

人們還開始熱捧「裸食」，即純天然無

除了食物，飲品也要講求「裸」。

接觸到世界各地的食材，但同時這些食

澳大利亞旅遊局表示，現在澳洲正風靡

材也更難被追蹤到其生長環境等資料。

近年來，全球餐廳興起一股「新北

一種叫「裸酒」的紅酒。所謂「裸酒」

人們為了更容易了解到送到自己口裡的

歐飲食風潮」。新北歐餐廳 Noma 多次

通常就是酒莊釀造的純酒，沒有經過太

食物是否天然、新鮮，更傾向於消費本

盤踞世界頂級餐廳前十。新北歐飲食遵

多人工工序，未添加香精香料，味道相

地的食材。於是，中國流行的「農家菜」

循以下幾條法則：一、就地取用食材；

對淳樸。無獨有偶，香港也流行起了手

風潮也吹到了美國。餐廳坐擁農場就能

二、當季食材當季吃；三、在地化和精

工啤酒。手工啤酒和普通大產量生產的

有源源不斷的新鮮、健康食材。到郊外

簡化烹飪過程，不添加過多調味品和烹

啤酒最大的不同之處就在於，手工啤酒

開設「農家菜」餐廳，成為了美國廚

調技術，從而呈現食材天然的真滋味。

通常是本地或小型私人釀酒廠少量生產

界新潮。位於紐約郊外的 Stone Barns

這種風潮的流行，實則是人們追求飲食

的啤酒，基本無人工添加物，減少了糖

Blue Hill 就是這樣的農莊餐廳，最近更

健康所致的，同時亦體現了人們的飲食

分的含量。「無添加」似乎就是現今人

是摘得了美國最權威的餐飲行業風向標

偏好——純天然無添加。更有趣的是，

們飲食選擇的關鍵詞。

James Beard 基金大獎。

添加的食物。

人們并不再聞「脂肪」而色變了，只要 66

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67

Food Exists With Health Care 寓醫於食

families are equipped with herbal tea. Based on the medicinal properties of herbs, German herbal tea manufacturers have developed the "One Disease, One Tea" treatment. German supermarkets, pharmacies and general merchandise stores sell nearly 30 kinds of herbal tea, such as the therapeutic cough herbal tea, "soothing nerve" tea, and "protecting intestine" tea. German people can choose the appropriate herbal tea to cure corresponding symptoms. Most teas contain European herbal plants, such as chamomile, mint leaves, pepper, and cinnamon. It is said that many German herbal tea manufacturers are inspired by the theory of traditional Chinese medicine. Many of them even set up herbal bases in China or import medicinal herbs from China.

「藥膳」、「食療」發源於中國的 傳統飲食文化和醫學，其基本思想是寓 醫於食。日常飲食中加入藥用功效的食 材，果腹之餘，還達到強身健體、治療 疾病的效用。 健康飲食的關注度熱熾，歐洲地區 也開始出現了「藥膳」、「食療」，還 受到了當地人們的歡迎。英國近期就出

68

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"Herbal Cuisine" and "Dietary Therapy"

現了比較多的素食餐館，而餐單上更是

are originated from China's traditional food

出現了用草藥入饌的菜式。位於歐洲的

culture and medicine, and the basic concept

另一國家德國也新興起一種健康飲食文

is that food exists with health care. Added

化：喝藥茶。據德國民調機構阿倫巴赫

with medicinal indigents, these daily diets can

研究資料顯示，95% 的德國家庭都備

appease hunger, enhance physical fitness, and

有藥茶。德國藥茶廠家根據不同草本植

cure diseases.

物的藥用功效，發展出了「一病對一茶」。

For people to pursue a healthy life,

德國的超市、藥店、日用品商店里就售

Europe also begins "Herbal Cuisine" and

賣了近 30 種藥茶，有治療咳嗽的藥茶、

"Dietary Therapy". Recently, more and more

安神茶、整腸茶等。德國人會選擇合適

vegetarian restaurants emerge in Britain and

的藥茶來舒緩對應的病症。藥茶中多數

we can even find some dishes with herbs in

包含歐洲生長的藥用花草，如甘菊、薄

their menus. In Germany, another country in

荷葉、胡椒、玉桂等。據說，很多德國

Europe, the new fashionable health culture—

藥茶廠製茶靈感來源于中草藥理論、研

herbal tea appeared. According to the data

究。當中有不少廠家在中國設立了中草

from Allensbach Institute, 95% of German

藥基地，或者從中國引進草藥原料。 69

For Fukushima's Saké An Unpolluted Artisanal Handicraft 福島清酒：無污染的手工釀造精品 TEXT/ 文 Johannes Pong TRANSLATION/ 譯 Joey Li

W

hen I told my friends about my trip to visit traditional sake breweries and brewers in

Fukushima, there was general shock as well as genuine concern. And also jokes about growing third eyes and limbs.

There's a lot of misinformation, myth and fear-mongering rumor regarding Fukushima.

But radiation is easily detected by science. You cannot cover it up or exaggerate its presence.

I had downloaded a Lapka app onto my iPhone and borrowed a sleek Lapka PEM device from a friend. He bought it when he thought the Daiichi Nuclear Plant disaster meant that radiation was contaminating all of Asia. Lapka, recently acquired by Airbnb, is a tiny environmental monitor that connects to smartphones. Its precise sensors respond to

Author: Johannes Pong

70

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Radiation testing 輻射測試

71

The Suehiro Kaei Brewery 日本末廣 嘉永蔵

the invisible world of ions and molecules. One

is indeed still reeling from the shock of the

into doing more, to help with the hot mess so

Tamura be 100% organic and self-sustainable

the best, five for the worst — brutally simple,

80-year-old master brewer's guidance. Rice

program measures and analyses the background

tsunami and the nuclear disaster, and fishing has

close to their homes. 51 breweries out of 65

by 2025. "So that the soil will be healed in

very Japanese. The top sakes go again for a

is steamed in giant iron pots. The high heat

radiation levels of your surroundings.

been arrested. Separating the flat basin and rice

were impacted by the 2011 tsunami.

100 years, and we can be proud of our land,"

second round, awarded from only one to three.

makes it dry, but moisture is contained within

explained Niida.

20 to 25% gets a gold label.

the grain. The texture isn't like completely

Before embarking for Japan, I tested

bowl of Aizuwakamatsu and Kitakata from the

Niida Honke was the first sake brewery we

the Lapka device everywhere. It was rather

coast is, a hilly region. Where the rice is grown

visited. Yasuhiko Niida is the 18th generation

disconcerting to know that a certain basement

for sake in Aizuwakamatsu and Kitakata is as

tōji (master brewer) of his family brewery in

bar of a five-star hotel in Hong Kong had a

far as Mount Fuji is from Tokyo. Traditionally,

Tamura, founded in 1711. It's just him and

higher background radiation levels than Tokyo,

those areas never ate much fresh fish to begin

his staff of 22 in charge of the planting and

which was higher than Fukushima. When I

with. Local sashimi is usually raw horse meat,

harvesting of rice, plus the whole sake making

got to Fukushima, the Lapka device and app

mixed with a spicy miso, or a vegetarian version

process. And he's very proud of his artisanal

assured me that there was no radioactivity

made of yuba (soft tofu skin). A number of

products.

anywhere near me. I checked on the train, in

dishes use dried scallop to impart that seafood

Koriyama City, the town of Aizuwakamatsu and

flavor, much like Cantonese cooking.

the Kitakata area. The background radiation

The evening before taking the Shinkansen

When we entered the brewery, a young staff member was meticulously raking the rice grains

"I raise my two daughters right here in

In Aizuwakamatsu, we visited a venerable

cooked parboiled rice, but like clay, with the

Koriyama. I wouldn't make anything that I

old building of wood. Fukushima's Suehiro’s

grains still intact. I lugged hot steaming rice in

cannot feed them," said Niida.

Brewery's Kaei Brewery, established in 1850

wooden barrels over my shoulders to spread

during the Kaei era, is where they developed

it out on the floor to be cooled. The cooling

rice, sake and sake lees for radioactivity. No

the famed Yamahai method (using naturally

process differs everyday, depending on the

test result ever exceeded 10 becquerels per

occurring yeast or lactic bacteria that drops

day's temperature, as well as whether it's the

kilogram. That means they've never detected

naturally from the rafters to create a richer,

first, second or third batch of rice. Koji mold is

any radioactive contamination in sake ever.

umami-laden sake). They still brew sake

then sprinkled onto the clumps of rice by hand.

without modern machinery, all by hand and

The sake produced there is truly an artisanal

heart.

product, only brewed and sold in their gift

All breweries in Fukushima test their water,

Fukushima is the eighth largest sake

after sprinkling the koji mould on them. That

producer in terms of quantity and production

levels in those areas of Fukushima (0.17) were

up, I talked to a number of journalists at the

meditative motion may have originally inspired

volume of all prefectures. It also ranks the

constantly lower than that of Hong Kong (0.20

Foreign Correspondents' Club of Japan in

the Zen sand gardens of Japan, as temples used

highest in number of gold medals. For three

the 35th year of the reign of Showa (1960) and

- 0.21). A city like Shanghai or Tokyo with

Tokyo. Those who have been to Fukushima all

to brew their own sake.

consecutive years, Fukushima sakes have

does not want to stop. The owner's wife chimes

with light sweetness, very refined but with a

granite and concrete actually traps way more

gave glowing (please excuse the pun) reviews

constantly dominated The Japan Sake Awards, a

in and says that Sato has quite a number of fans

deep umami. That is because Fukushima has

radiation than a rural area like Fukushima.

of the prefecture. But there are a lot of politics

anniversary, they started to grow all organic rice

very prestigious industry event. 24 judges taste

all over the world (as his photo is on most of

good rice, soft water and the ideal climate for fermentation process, as well as good brewers

In 2011, Niida Honke's 300 year

Master brewer Juichi Sato began brewing in

involved when it comes to information about

to produce fuller, softer sakes. Although it costs

400 sakes from all over the country. There's no

the packaging of their bottles), so he can't quit.

different topological regions, with different

Fukushima, as any small town would have.

1.5 times more than regular sake rice, Niida's

talking or commenting. Judges just sit, sip and

It's hard work but what an honor it is to

climates, cultures and languages. The coast

Perhaps some want to push the government

dream is to have all the rice farms in his town

spit, and the sake is awarded a number: one for

make a traditional handcrafted sake under the

Fukushima is actually separated into three

72

Johannes Pong and master brewer Juichi Sato 作者 Johannes Pong 和釀酒大師佐藤壽一

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shop.

Typical Fukushima sakes are clean ginjōs

who know each other and are not averse to sharing knowledge.

73

當我和朋友們談及參觀清酒釀造廠 和有釀酒傳統的福島之旅時，他們表達 關心之餘，更多的是震驚，以及笑著問 是否會長出第三隻眼和其他肢體。

Honke) 是我們參觀的第一家釀造廠。

在福島，所有的釀酒廠都測試了他

程仍然沒有用到現代機械，全部都是用

關於福島有很多誤傳、神話及因

福島實際上是分離的三個不同的拓

它成立於 1711 年，釀酒大師仁井田穩

們的水、大米、清酒和清酒酒糟的放射

恐懼而散播的謠言。但實際上，我們可

撲區域，這三個地區分別擁有不同的氣

彥是酒廠的第十八代傳人。他和 22 名

性指數，沒有測試結果超過 10 貝可 /

釀酒大師佐藤壽一先生從昭和

以很容易用科學的方法探測到輻射，不

候、文化和語言。濱通地區近海岸，仍

員工負責種植和收割水稻，以及整個清

公斤，這意味著他們從來沒有在清酒中

三十五年（1960 年）就開始釀酒。末

能掩蓋或誇大它的存在。我下載了一個

然深陷於海嘯和核災難的衝擊中，捕魚

酒製作過程，他對自己的手工製作非常

檢測到任何放射性污染。

廣酒廠老板娘笑說佐藤先生在世界各地

叫 Lapka 的流動應用程式，並向朋友

業已經被完全禁止。 丘陵地區的郡山

自豪。

借了一個 Lapka PEM 裝置。朋友帶著

市，若松市和喜多方地區平坦的盆地與

進入釀酒廠後，我們看一個年輕的

第八大生產地，它擁有的金牌數也名列

這個裝置，因他認為福島核電站的核災

海岸分開。這裡的水稻種植距離大概與

工作人員正在精心地挑揀淋過酒麴的米

前茅。連續三年，福島的清酒一直佔領

在 80 歲釀酒大師的指導下，用傳

難所釋放的輻射可能會污染整個亞洲。

富士山距東京相近。長期以來，這些地

粒。這樣細緻的動作可能啟發了禪境流

著日本清酒大獎的榜首。在清酒大賞這

統方式手工製酒是一項辛苦但有意義的

Lapka 是一個小小的連接手機的環境監

區並沒有多吃海鮮的習慣。當地的刺身

沙的日本園林設計，因歷代日本古寺佛

個著名的行業盛會中，有 24 位評委品

工作。將米蒸在巨大的鐵壺裡，再用高

測器，它可以感應到人眼看不到的離子

通常是生的馬肉，混合著辣醬，或素食

閣也常用這種方式釀造自己的酒。

嚐來自全國各地的 400 種酒，不允許互

溫使它乾燥，水分仍然包含在穀物中，

和分子，藉此來測量和分析你周圍的輻

版製成的「湯葉」( 腐竹 / 腐皮）。一

2011 年 是 仁 井 田 本 家 成 立 的 300

相談論，評委們只能坐著，喝一口，吐

所以它的質地就像粘土。我扛起盛滿大

射水準。

些菜式用乾貝以加入海鮮的味道，和某

周年，他們開始種植有機水稻，雖然生

一口，然後清酒們會被授予一個號碼：

米的木桶，攤在地板上，等待冷卻。冷

些廣東菜用瑤柱的做法相似。

產有機水稻的時間是一般水稻的 1.5 倍，

一個最好的，五個最壞的。這種方式也

卻過程每天都不同，這取決於一天的溫

出發去日本前，我上哪都想試一

從產量和質量上說，福島是清酒的

心地手工製作。

都有很多粉絲（他的照片就印在酒瓶 上），所以不能退任。

下這部裝置。令人不安的是，我發現香

坐新幹線的前一晚，我和東京外國

但是可以釀造出口感更醇厚、更順滑的

極具日本風格，既殘酷又簡單。被選中

度，以及大米的批數，然後將酒麴模具

港一間五星級酒店地下酒吧的輻射量甚

記者俱樂部的一些新聞記者們聊天，去

清酒。仁井田先生的夢想，是在 2025

的清酒才能進入第二輪，獲獎的酒只有

用手撒到水稻叢中，生產出真正手工釀

至超過了東京，比福島還要高。來到福

過福島縣的都給出了好評。但發布福島

年之前，將鎮田村內他所有的水稻農場

一到三名，其中 20% 至 25% 會得到一

造的產品，並只在他們的禮品店出售。

島時，我在火車上查了一下，Lapka 設

縣的資訊， 很多時候都會牽涉政治問

變為百分之百有機， 並實現可持續發

個黃金標籤。

備和應用顯示我周圍並沒有放射性物

題。也許有些人想推動政府採取更多措

展。「這樣的土壤將在 100 年內恢復，

我們在會津若松參觀了一個古老

甜，擁有非常精緻而深刻的鮮味，這也

質。在郡山市，會津若松城和喜多方地

施，來幫助解決他們家鄉水深火熱的現

我們可以為我們的土地而自豪。」仁井

的木建築。福島的末廣嘉永釀酒廠，于

是因為福島有優質的水稻、軟水和理想

區，背景輻射常量比香港還要低（0.20

狀。在那裏，65 家啤酒廠中有 51 家受

田先生說：「我在郡山撫養我的兩個女

1850 年成立，就是他們開發了著名的

的發酵氣候，以及技藝高超的釀酒師。

- 0.21）。像香港、上海、東京等多花

到了 2011 年海嘯的衝擊。

兒長大。我不會生產出任何她們不能食

山廢方法（使用天然酵母或乳酸菌來創

他們十分瞭解彼此，並不會吝嗇分享各

用的東西。」

造更醇厚的口感）。他們現在的醞釀過

自的經驗和技巧。

崗岩和混凝土的大都會，往往比福島這

74

樣的農村地區的背景輻射還要多。

福島縣田村市的仁井田本家 (Niida

MOUTAI Magazine

MOUTAI Magazine

典型的福島清酒， 口感乾淨而輕

75

Cruising with 帶方便面上郵輪？ Instant Noodles?

包的餐難吃，外面飯店裡的西餐又吃不

櫃裡排隊。在美國人看來，一隻雞連頭

fermented tofu is very delicious; however,

慣，這一次帶上方便面，就不怕在船上

帶腳一起吃，那絕對比同性戀結婚要可

Americans firmly believe that the Chinese

吃不慣了。

怕一萬倍，而喜歡啃雞爪的中國人則必

people fond of eating smelly things are surely

我清楚記得 9 年前我和妻子在舊金

然是殘暴的惡毒的不正常的——據說他 們都不相信上帝的存在哦！

weird and abnormal in taste and moral….

山結婚的時候，岳母從杭州過來，我們

Actually, there's no constant rule for

帶著她去了不少地方，一路上她對吃的

美國旅遊電視頻道有一個叫做「怪

what is edible or inedible. Early in last

東西都叫苦不迭。 原以為漢堡牛排她

食」的節目介紹世界各地「奇怪」的食

century, Americans ate chicken neck as well.

不喜歡，泰國菜日本菜這樣有米飯的總

物，主持人安德魯就完全不敢吃中國的

everal days ago, my parents-in-law

If Americans learn about their own history,

可以，結果有一次在一家日本餐館她一

臭豆腐。安德魯絕對不瞭解「反者道之

took a cruise trip to Japan and brought

they might understand Chinese people's

口都沒有吃。外國菜吃不慣，多少總是

動」這一中國人的基本生活哲學，在中

lots of instant noodles and pickled

habit of eating chicken neck. Similarly, after

可以理解的。用通俗的話來說，中國人

國人看來臭和香是可以互相轉化的，而

vegetable with them before leaving. I told them

walking around the world and experiencing

的胃和外國人的胃不同。可是幾年前一

西方一元論的哲學會認為臭的就是臭

that the ship had whatever they wanted to eat

different lifestyles, Chinese might easily accept

起去西安，她對西北菜和泡饃也敬而遠

的。中國人吃臭豆腐其實是在吃香噴噴

and they could eat as much as they wanted——

the food from other countries as well and

之。在她看來， 只有家鄉的江浙菜才

的豆腐，而美國人覺得喜歡吃純粹臭東

most importantly, they needn't pay extra money

would not be limited to their own world.

是好吃的。在這一點上，我的母親非常

西的中國人一定是品味古怪的道德變態

贊同親家母的看法。

的人。

TEXT/ 文：Dong Tiezhu

S

for these foods; however, they still resolutely

Mentioning the example of limited to one's

然而可以吃什麼不可以吃什麼並沒

filled their suitcases with instant noodles.

own world, people will think of the fable "zuo

母親對於菜的烹調方法有著近乎死

With lingering fear, my mother-in-law said,

jing guan tian (Limited Outlook)". Originated

板的原則，比如說炒菜花或是冬瓜絕對

有一個永恆不變的規則。 上個世紀初

"On last year's trip to Europe, the meals of the

from "Zhuangzi", this fable has been misread

不能加醬油。記得我小時候，有一次父

期，美國人分明是吃雞脖子的。如果美

travel agency were awful and we were not used

by primary and secondary teachers. The

親做飯，在菜花裡面加了醬油，被母親

國人瞭解一下自己的歷史，也許就不會

to the Western food of the local restaurants.

teachers tell us to look at the greater world

叨嘮了整整一天，說菜花怎麼可以放醬

對中國人啃雞脖子感到不可理解。而中

This time we bring the instant noodles with

outside, just as a little bird and not to be as

油。而等我到北京讀大學，在食堂裡赫

國人如果到世界各地走走，體驗一下不

us and will have nothing to worry about."

satisfactory as a frog. Come on! Can a little

然發現菜花就是漂浮在醬油之中的，同

一樣的生活方式，相信會更容易接受其

bird fly higher than a roc? Can a roc fly out of

樣在醬油裡的還有冬瓜，還有餛飩……

他國家的美食， 不要局限在自己的世

its world...? Inevitably, every person or animal

我問北京的同學說餛飩湯裡怎麼加醬

界裡。

I still remember nine years ago when we also alright…. All these make them nervous.

got married in San Francisco. My mother-in-

added some soy to cauliflower, my mother

law came to us from Hangzhou and we took

chattered about that for the whole day;

has a certain living space. Their understanding

油，他們詫異地說難道有不加醬油的餛

her to many places, but she complained bitterly

however, when I studied in a Beijing university,

new food, Americans are afraid of such food as

of the world and choice of life are limited. In

飩湯嗎？

about the food along the entire trip. I thought

I was surprised to find in the canteen that

chicken neck, chicken foot, pig heart, and pig

this sense, the bird is also miserable and self-

那是我第一次離開家鄉，從那時起

子》的寓言，也一直被中小學老師所誤

she did not like hamburger or steak. Then, such

cauliflower was floating in soy; winter melon

intestine. In the supermarkets of the United

righteous. Frog, little bird, roc, or whatever, has

我就一直在想，對於熟悉食物的喜歡和

讀。老師會告訴我們，要像小鳥一樣看

meals with rice as Thai food and Japanese food

and wonton were also in the soy….I asked

States, chicken is always sold with no head or

different lifestyle. Therefore, their favorite food

對陌生食物的排斥，到底是因為胃的原

外面的世界才知道世界的廣大，千萬不

would be OK. As a result, once we went to a

my Beijing classmates how could soy be

feet; fish is cut into pieces and neatly placed

will be different as well. Only when they feel

因還是因為心的原因；面對新的食物，

要像青蛙一樣自我滿足。拜託，小鳥再

Japanese restaurant, she didn't take a single

added to wonton soup. They said in surprise,

in freezer. In Americans' view, eating a whole

that their lifestyle is not the only one can they

究竟是味蕾真的無法接受它們的味道，

能飛有大鳥能飛嗎，大鳥再能飛就能飛

bite at all. Unaccustomed to foreign dishes is

"Is there any wonton soup without soy?"

chicken is absolutely much more horrible than

respect those eating habits that look weird.

還是心裡覺得它們突破了自己原有的觀

到六合之外了嗎……每一個人， 每一

When I first arrived in Guangdong, my

While China's old ladies are nervous about

說到局限在自己的世界，大家都會 想起坐井觀天這個寓言。這個出自《莊

念。母親和她的很多朋友不喜歡吃生魚

種動物，都有一定的生活空間，他們對

people's stomachs are different from those

Since then I have been thinking about what

race fond of eating chicken feet are surely cruel,

Shantou friends said that pineapple with soy

片， 並不是因為吃了以後覺得味道不

世界的理解和對生活的選擇也就都是有

of foreigners. What surprised me was several

leads to the favor of familiar food and exclusion

vicious, and abnormal——It is said that all of

was tasty. I was shocked when I first heard

好，而是本能地覺得魚就是應該煮熟了

限的。從這個意義上講，小鳥同樣是可

years ago when we visited Xi'an together, she

of strange food, stomach or psychology?

them don't believe in the existence of God!

that. Six years has passed and I never try it;

才能吃。於是吃生魚片對她們來說就不

悲的、自以為是的。無論是青蛙、小鳥

kept away from northwest dishes and paomo

Whether people reject new food because it is

however, when I saw someone eating pineapple

僅僅是嚐試新的食物，而是在挑戰他們

還是大鵬，都有著不同的生活方式，他

with soy, I don't feel strange any more.

基本的生活原則。如果生的魚是可以吃

們喜歡的食物當然也會有所不同。只有

的，那麼男人留長髮是不是也可以呢，

當他們覺得自己的生活方式並不是唯一

孩子不願意聽父母的話是不是也可以呢

之時，他們才會尊重那些看起來怪異的

……這讓他們感到不安。

飲食習慣。

somewhat understandable. After all, Chinese

That was my first time away from home.

gay marriage; therefore, the Chinese people, a

America's Travel Channel has a program

(soaked flat bread). In her view, only the

unacceptable for their taste buds or against their

called "Bizarre Food" for introducing various

Jiangsu and Zhejiang Cuisine of hometown

original principles? My mother and many of

"bizarre" foods throughout the world; its host

is delicious. At this point, my mother agrees

her friends don't like to eat sashimi not because

Andrew, however, doesn't dare to eat China's

very much with my mother-in-law.

it tastes terrible but because they instinctively

fermented tofu at all. Andrew absolutely

行，臨行前帶了很多方便面和榨菜。我

feel that fish should be cooked before eating. So

doesn't understand Chinese people's basic life

告訴他們船上什麼吃的都有，而且想吃

對陌生食物感到不安的不僅僅是中

我最初到廣東的時候，有汕頭的朋

for the cooking methods of cuisine. For

eating sashimi for them is not just trying new

philosophy, that is, "reversion is the action of

多少就可以吃多少——最重要的是吃多

國的老太太們。美國人同樣對雞脖子雞

友說菠蘿蘸著醬油吃很好吃。最初聽到

example, stir-fried cauliflower or winter melon

food but challenging their basic principle of life.

Tao". Chinese view believes that smelly and

少都不用額外再花錢。但是他們還是很

爪豬心豬大腸之類的美食心懷恐懼。在

的時候我簡直震驚了。六年過去了，我

must never be added with soy. I remember

If raw fish is eatable, then men with long hair

fragrant can be transformed into each other

堅決地用方便面塞滿了行李箱。岳母心

美國的超市里，雞永遠是沒有頭沒有腳

還是沒有嚐試過，只不過看到別人菠蘿

one time when I was young and my father

would be acceptable; disobedient children are

while the West monistic philosophy thinks

有餘悸地說，去年去歐洲旅遊，旅行社

的，魚也一樣只是整齊的一塊一塊在冰

蘸醬油的時候，再也不會覺得怪異了。

My mother sticks to almost rigid principles

76

smelly will be always smelly. In fact, China's

MOUTAI Magazine

前幾天岳父、岳母坐郵輪去日本旅

MOUTAI Magazine

77

M UTAI on the world map

茅 台 在 全 球

on the World Map

Moutai Group Donated 100 Million RMB to Help 20,000 Students To fulfill its social responsibility, Moutai Group has held the "Moutai • National Pillar" public welfare activity for many years and has benefited many UPSIDE: Li Keqiang (front middle), Li Baofang (front 6th from right) and other representatives in a group photo 李克強（前中）與李保芳（前右六）等嘉賓代表合影留念

and in all countries, a country can be strong only after its culture is strong; a culture can be strong only after its education is strong. Respecting, seeking, using, and cultivating talents is the current ethos of China; education is a priority task of poverty alleviation and an important measure to avoid passing poverty to next generations."

Since 2011, Moutai Group has donated a total of 1.4 billion RMB and made

Chinese students. Recently, Guizhou Moutai Group generously donated another

important contributions in such aspects as donating to schools, subsidizing the

100 million RMB as grants to the China Youth Development Foundation and

needy, providing disaster relief, protecting environment, promoting agriculture,

the Communist Youth League Guizhou Provincial Committee, helping 20,000

and sponsoring local governments to improve traffic environment. It is the

freshmen from poor families to enter universities.

only enterprise in the industry to issue social responsibility reports for seven

Moutai Group Chairman Yuan Renguo stressed in the activity: "At all times

貴州建設成為世界知名山地旅遊目的地和山地旅遊大省。

According to the "Plan", by 2020, Moutai Group will produce 120,000

Commercial Street; in the Liquor Culture City, the time-honored wisdom

如今走進茅台鎮，入口牌坊、南坳立交、茅台酒廠新大門、

concentrated within the liquor is marvelous; in the Moutai Distillery, the

白酒一條街、1915 廣場、楊柳灣商業街，獨特的人文景觀讓人

level of 100 billion RMB, and keep ranking 1st in the industry in terms of

mysterious making technique is inviting…. Moutai Town is demonstrating a

目不暇接；酒文化城中，千年光陰凝結於酒的智慧讓人感慨；茅

comprehensive benefits; besides, Moutai Group will cultivate two to three new

poetic picture of "riverside village and walled mountain town, with liquor flags

台酒廠內，神秘的生產工藝讓人流連忘返……茅台以一幅「水村

listed companies, further consolidate and enhance Moutai's status as "the No.

fluttering in the wind" as well as a magnificent and vivid "dream water village",

山郭酒旗風」的詩意畫卷徐徐鋪展、一座美輪美奐的「夢幻水鄉」

1 distilled liquor brand in the world", and develop itself into an international

and "Colorful Guizhou" Tourism Promotion Show were held at the 1915

allowing tourists to feel Moutai's mysterious and endless charms through their

生動展現，讓遊客從視覺、聽覺、味覺和嗅覺上領略神秘茅台的

alcohol investment holding group that integrates industrial capital with financial

Square of Moutai Town, Renhuai City. The conference stressed the needs

eyes, ears, palates, and noses.

無窮魅力。

11th Guizhou Tourism Industry Development Conference Held at Moutai Town On May 10, the 11th Guizhou Tourism Industry Development Conference

to thoroughly implement General Secretary Xi Jinping's series of important

（李浩 宋浪 蔡海紅 攝影報道 ）

(Reported and photographed by Li Hao, Song Lang, and Cai Haihong)

fully implement five new development concepts, vigorously speed up the structural reforms of the tourism supply side, actively develop all-around tourism, mountain tourism, rural tourism, cultural tourism, intellectual tourism, and satisfactory tourism, build the tourism brand of "Fascinating Guizhou, a

第十一屆貴州旅發大會暨「唱響多彩貴州」旅 遊文化展示推介會在茅台鎮隆重舉行 5 月 10 日，第十一屆貴州旅遊產業發展大會暨「唱響多彩

tons of baijiu, including 50,000 tons of Moutai liquor, reach the overall income

capital.

茅台集團「十三五」規劃出爐

speeches, especially the important instructions gave when inspecting Guizhou,

Moutai Group Released Its "13th Five-Year Plan" Recently, "Moutai Group's 13th Five-Year Plan'' was released and then ac-

近日，《茅台集團「十三五」規劃》出爐，在集團上下進行 緊密部署，強力推進。這部規劃開宗明義，對貴州茅台未來五年 的企業目標作了自我定位：「致力於成為全球蒸餾酒第一品牌， 通過產融結合打造多元化發展的大型酒業投資控股集團，成為受

Heaven of Myriad Mountains", promote tourism to achieve "upsurge" growth,

貴州」旅遊文化展示推介會在仁懷市茅台鎮 1915 廣場隆重舉行。

tively deployed and implemented throughout the Group. At the very beginning,

and strive to develop Guizhou into a world-renowned tourist destination and

會議強調，要深入貫徹習近平總書記系列重要講話精神，特別是

the "Plan" specifies the enterprise goals of Kweichow Moutai in the coming

《茅台集團「十三五」規劃》提出：到 2020 年，貴州茅台

major province of mountain tourism.

視察貴州時的重要指示要求，全面落實五大新發展理念，強力推

five years: "Strive to be the No. 1 distilled liquor brand in the world, develop

集團的白酒產量將達到 12 萬噸，茅台酒的產量達 5 萬噸，整體

人尊敬的世界級企業，享譽全球的國酒茅台。」

進旅遊供給側結構性改革，大力發展全域旅遊、山地旅遊、鄉村

into a large and diversified alcohol investment holding group through integra-

收入達到千億元級，綜合效益穩居行業第一；在集團內部培育 2

unique cultural landscapes, such as Entrance Arch, Nan'ao Interchange,

旅遊、文化旅遊、智慧旅遊、滿意旅遊，打造「山地公園省·多

tion of industrial capital and financial capital, become a well-respected world-

至 3 個上市公司，進一步鞏固和提升世界蒸餾酒第一品牌地位，

new gate of Moutai Distillery, Baijiu Street, 1915 Square, and Yangliu Bay

彩貴州風」旅遊品牌，推動旅遊業實現「井噴式」增長，努力將

class enterprise, and continue to make the world-renowned Moutai liquor."

把茅台集團打造成產融結合的國際化酒業投資控股集團。

Now when walking into Moutai Town, people will be greeted by numerous

78

( Turn to Page 80)

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MOUTAI Magazine

79

M UTAI on the world map

( Continued from Page 79) consecutive years and a leading enterprise to win the title of "Most Benevolent

Moutai Ranked 1st in "Top 50 Spirits Brands"

aroma", and won frequent praise from visitors.

On April 8, UK's famous independent brand valuation consultancy Brand

as well as richest styles, flavors and healthy elements", said Moutai Group

"Moutai is a distilled liquor with the most complicated technique, longest production cycle, highest production cost, largest number of involved microbes

Enterprise Donor" from China Charity Award, the highest government prize in the field of Chinese philanthropy.

Moutai Group Party Secretary Li Baofang said, "To subsidize a student is to help a poor family, exclude their anxiety about their children's tuition, and provide more support for them to shake off poverty and change their fate early."

In the past few years, Moutai Group donated "Xinhua Dictionary" to 1.5 million rural students in the western area, invested nearly 2 billion RMB in constructing Moutai Town, donated 20 million RMB annually to Guiyang Confucian Academy Development Foundation, donated a total of 500 million RMB to protect the ecological environment of Guizhou's Chishui River valley, built 100 "Moutai Hope Canteens" in Guizhou Province, and carried out the "Xijiu • My University" activity to subsidize poor students from Guizhou and other places.

Among the representatives of previous subsidized students, Li Jiandi, admitted to University of Science & Technology Beijing, said, "I believe that

Finance released the list of "Top 50 Spirits Brands" (2016). With a brand value

Chairman Yuan Renguo when recommending Kweichow Moutai liquor at the

of 5.771 billion USD, Moutai ranked 1st in the list, followed by Johnnie Walker

China-South Korea entrepreneurs forum.

2015, Moutai Group exported 1,300 tons of Moutai liquor and Moutai series

in South Korea to Chen Miner (Secretary of Guizhou Provincial CPC Committee

liquor and achieved an export volume of 237 million USD. Moutai now has 84

and Director of the Standing Committee of Guizhou Provincial People's

overseas distributors, with a continually improved marketing network covering

Congress) and South Korean guests. Yuan Renguo particularly described the

63 countries (regions) in Asia, Europe, Africa, the Americas, and Oceania,

development and marketing of the Confucius Commemorative Liquor that was

including 53 direct shipping countries (regions) and duty-free markets in major ports. (Reported by Ye Yuanming)

茅台名列「全球烈酒品牌價值 50 強」首位 4 月 8 日， 英 國 著 名 品 牌 管 理 和 品 牌 評 估 獨 立 顧 問 公 司 Brand Finance 發布「2016 全球烈酒品牌價值 50 強」排行榜。

make our contributions at wherever we are needed."

國酒茅台以 57.71 億美元的品牌價值名列首位，名列第二、三

「國酒茅台·國之棟樑」是茅台集團履行企業社會責任而舉 辦的社會公益活動，多年來，讓無數中國學子受益。近日，茅台 集團再度大手筆行善，向中國青少年發展基金會、共青團貴州省 委捐贈 1 億元人民幣的助學金，給予 20000 名貧困家庭的大學

國，必強文化，欲強文化，必強教育。敬才、求才、用才、育才 是當今中國時代之風。教育扶貧是扶貧攻堅的優先任務，是阻斷 貧窮代際傳遞的重要抓手。」 2011 年以來，茅台集團累計投入 14 億元，在捐資助學、

之冠 " (Moutai, the Top Liquor) enhanced the literary atmosphere of the site.

Moutai's leading products were exhibited, including common Moutai liquor, Millesimes Moutai liquor, commemorative Moutai liquor, and Moutai series

"ancient brewing technique" through the source of culture, but also the beauty of Moutai liquor, that is, "elegant, delicate, and mellow, with prominent Jiang

多噸，實現出口創匯 2.37 億美元，海外經銷商總數已達 84 家，

fragrance, long aftertaste, as well as lasting empty-cup fragrance". As a result, many visitors were attracted to enjoy this fragrant journey of Moutai.

annual import plan in the first quarter of 2016.

(Reported by Chen Zhao and Wang Tijian)

袁仁國隨貴州省商務團赴韓推介國酒文化 4 月 20 日，「山地公園省·多彩貴州風」全球推廣活動啟 動儀式在首爾舉行，貴州酒香、茶香、墨香以及多姿多彩的「非

貴州茅台參展第十二屆深圳文博會

人頻頻稱贊。 「茅台酒是世界上工藝最複雜、生產周期最長、生產成本最

5 月 12 日，第十二屆中國（深圳）國際文化產業博覽交易

Kweichow Moutai Attended the 12th ICIF

高、 參與釀造微生物最多、風格風味和健康因子最豐富的蒸餾

會璀璨開幕。貴州館以「山地公園省·多彩貴州風」為主題，精

酒。」在中韓企業家交流座談會上，茅台集團公司董事長袁仁國

彩呈現貴州別具魅力的文化旅遊、非遺文創和文化科技、文化創

向中韓企業家這樣推介貴州茅台酒。

On May 12, the 12th China (Shenzhen) International Cultural Industries Fair

相文博會。

(ICIF) was grandly opened. With the theme of "Fascinating Guizhou, a Heaven of

意等，成為會上亮眼的風景。茅台酒作為貴州特色酒文化代表亮 茅台展館設計大氣、典雅，輔以茅台的兩大主色——金色和

袁仁國向貴州省委書記、省人大常委會主任陳敏爾及韓國貴 賓介紹了茅台酒出口情況和茅台酒在韓國的市場發展情況。袁仁 國還特別介紹了孔子紀念酒的開發和市場情況，在本次活動獲得

扶貧濟困、義賑救災、環境保護、扶農興農、支持地方政府改善

Myriad Mountains", the Guizhou Pavilion marvelously demonstrated Guizhou's

紅色，突顯出國酒茅台、紅色經典。朱學範先生題詞的「國酒茅

交通環境等方面作了大量工作，是行業內唯一連續七年發佈社會

charming cultural tourism, intangible cultural creation, cultural technology, and

台、玉液之冠」，更為現場增添了幾分墨意。現場展示了茅台酒

據悉，茅台酒在韓國本地主流市場之中具有較高的知名度和

責任報告、榮獲中國慈善領域最高政府獎項「中華慈善獎 ——

cultural innovation, becoming a dazzling scenery of the Fair. Moutai liquor was

主導產品，包括普通茅台酒、陳年茅台酒、茅台紀念酒以及茅台

美譽度，2015 年共計進口茅台酒及系列酒 7000 箱，同比增長

最具愛心捐贈企業獎」的領頭企業。

demonstrated as a representative of Guizhou's characteristic liquor culture in

系列酒。

16%；2016 年一季度已完成全年計劃的 40%。

茅台集團黨委書記李保芳認為：「捐贈一個學生，就是在幫 助一個貧困家庭。讓他們不為孩子就讀犯難，也為他們早日脫貧、

了韓國民眾的喜愛。

茅台集團此次參展，既從文化的源頭上，展現其「古法釀制」

the fair.

With classy and elegant design and adopting Moutai's two primary

改變命運提供更多支援。」

的美感，吸引了許多參觀者駐足享受這場醇香之旅。

捐贈《新華字典》；投資近 20 億元參與茅台小城鎮建設；每年 向貴陽孔學堂發展基金會捐贈 2000 萬；累計捐贈 5 億元用於貴

Yuan Renguo Promoted Moutai Culture in South Korea

州省赤水河流域生態環境保護；在貴州省建設 100 所「國酒茅 台·希望食堂」；開展「習酒·我的大學」資助貴州等地的貧困 學子。

On April 20, the "Fascinating Guizhou, a Heaven of Myriad Mountains"

往年受捐助的學子代表也發表了感言。其中，以優異成績考 入北京科技大學的李建地表示：「我相信所有受捐助的學生都一

global promotion activity was inaugurated in Seoul. Guizhou's liquor aroma,

樣，懷著一顆感恩的心，等我們學有所成後，會在全國需要我們

tea aroma, ink aroma (calligraphy and painting), and colorful intangible culture

的地方發光發熱！」

came to South Korea, attracted South Korean people to "know Guizhou through

MOUTAI Magazine

（記者 陳朝 王體健）

的魅力，又從「觀色、聞香、嚐味」的品鑒藝術中，體會茅台酒 「醬香突出、幽雅細膩、酒體醇厚、回味悠長、空杯留香持久」

過去的幾年中，茅台為中國西部地區 150 萬名農村小學生

80

compared with the previous statistics period. It has completed 40% of the

遺」文化越過國界，吸引韓國民眾「聞香識貴州」，贏得韓國友

區）的有稅市場及重要口岸的免稅市場，直接發貨的國家（地區） 達 53 個，國際市場的銷售網絡布局日臻完善。（記者 葉遠鳴）

mainstream market of South Korea. In 2015, South Korea imported 7,000 cartons of Moutai liquor and Moutai series liquors, an increase of 16%

This exhibition of Moutai Group demonstrated not only the charm of

際化戰略步履鏗鏘。2015 年茅台酒及茅台系列酒共計出口 1300 銷售網絡已覆蓋亞洲、歐洲、非洲、美洲、大洋洲 63 個國家（地

It is reported that Moutai enjoys high recognition and reputation in the

liquor.

位的分別是尊尼獲加威士忌和軒尼詩幹邑。近年來，茅台集團國

新生從家門走向校門的機會。 茅台集團董事長袁仁國在活動中強調：「古今中外，欲強其

favored by South Korean people in this activity. colors——gold and red, the Moutai pavilion highlighted its status of national liquor and revolution classic. Mr. Zhu Xuefan's inscription " 国酒茅台、玉液

all subsidized students will be grateful to the help. After we graduate, we will

茅台集團出資 1 億人民幣幫助 2 萬名學生

Yuan Renguo introduced Moutai's export situation and market development

and Hennessy. In recent years, Moutai Group is striding towards the world. In

MOUTAI Magazine

World Famous Liquor Summit Forum Held in Moutai Group On May 10, as an important part of the 11th Guizhou Tourism Industry Development Conference, the World Famous Liquor Summit Forum was held at Moutai's conference center. Focusing on the theme of "Integration, Innovation, Development, and Win-win", guests from home and abroad actively participated in the in-depth exchanges and discussions.

As the first international conference hosted by Moutai Group in its headquarters, the forum aimed to build a worldwide communication platform for

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M UTAI on the world map

world famous liquors, advocating that "the world alcohol enterprises should plan, change, and act according to trends, and cooperate with each other to seek win-win and mutual development".

"Chinese Wine" Unveiled at the Cannes Film Festival

Industry leaders such as Wang Yancai (President of China Alcoholic Drinks Association), Yuan Renguo (Chairman of Moutai Group), Simonitsch (Chairman of World Alcoholic Beverage Alliance), and Baudouin Havaux (Chairman of Concours Mondial de Bruxelles) as well as guests from home and abroad gave their speeches; various parties and famous alcohol enterprises around the world shared their thoughts and actions in response to the global economic situation as well as the opportunities and market space created by the exchanges among alcohol enterprises.

In the dialogue session, participants discussed on such topics as "No country is immune from the great change of the era, then, as an alcoholic beverage maker, how to coordinate the development of domestic and international markets?" "In the same world and market, how to achieve product differentiation and value scarcity?" "Facing consumer groups of different countries, races, and customs, how to take more market share?" and "Consumption after all is

Recently, the film "Chinese Wine" (or National Liquor) co-produced by

an economic problem. Under the worldwide economic downturn, where is the

Moutai Group and Xiaoxiang Film Group was unveiled at the Cannes Film

future consumption highland?" They had agreed to strengthen exchanges and

Festival in France. The International Exchange Division of SAPPRFT (State

cooperation with each other and promote exchanges and cooperation among

Administration of Press, Publication, Radio, Film and Television of the People's

famous alcohol enterprises of the world.

Republic of China) specially produced a French version of the film for overseas (Reported by Chen Lulu and Wang Yuan)

promotion and used film as a medium to spread China's liquor culture.

Cannes Film Festival of France shares the name of the world's five most in-

世界名酒高峰論壇在茅台集團舉行 5 月 10 日，作為第十一屆貴州省旅遊產業發展大會重要活 動之一的世界名酒高峰論壇在茅台會議中心舉行，來自世界各地 的中外嘉賓暢所欲言，就「融合、創新、發展、共贏」的主題展 開深刻的交流與探討。 此次世界名酒高峰論壇，是茅台集團首次作為東道主在公司 總部承辦的國際性會議，其目的是為世界名酒搭建溝通的平臺， 架起交流互鑒的橋梁，倡導「世界酒類企業應因勢而謀、應勢而 動、順勢而為，走出一條共贏合作之路，促進共同發展」。 中國酒業協會理事長王延才、茅台集團公司董事長袁仁國、

fluential film festivals with Berlin Film Festival of Germany, Venice Film Festival

of this year was organized by the club of former students from the Poitiers University. Cellar master Patrick Léger from Maison Camus and spirits expert

Czech Republic. "Chinese Wine" was China's first film about baijiu. Moutai's

Alexandre Vingtier attended the activity.

story and influence itself had a good publicity effect and many overseas

The tasting activity gave a presentation on the baijiu history and how to

businessmen were attracted by the "Chinese Wine" poster and promo at the

taste and compare different kinds of baijiu. In total, five Chinese baijius were

Chinese film promotion booth. According to the producers, the film had been

selected, including four from Kweichow Moutai and one from Wuliangye, the

listed in this year's Chinese film overseas screening plan of SAPPRFT and was

best leaders in baijiu. Kweichow Moutai presented the Feitian Moutai liquor

planned to be screened in late May in "Europe's Second Capital", Strasbourg

(53%, 2015 and 2013), "Small Batch Blend" Moutai liquor (Camus, 2012),

of France.

and Li Bai Moutai (2013) from the Legendary China Collection. As a bonus,

(Reported by Chen Woquan)

the State-Banquet Moutai (53%, 2013) was served during the banquet 3 of the

電影《國酒》亮相戛納電影節

tasting activity.

日前，由茅台集團和瀟湘電影集團聯合出品的電影《國酒》

大獎賽組委會主席蔔杜安·哈弗等行業領導、中外嘉賓分別發表

亮相法國戛納電影節，國家新聞出版廣電總局電影局國際交流處

主題演講，分享全球各方與世界名酒企業為應對全球經濟局勢所

專門制作了該片的法語版本開展海外推廣，以電影為媒傳播中國

做出的思考與積極的推動，以及各大酒企在交流碰撞中產生的更

酒文化。

茅台酒亮相 Plessis 酒莊白酒品鑒會 2016 年 4 月 7 日，一場白酒品鑒會在卡慕家族旗下的 Plessis 酒莊舉行。本次品酒會是由普瓦捷烈酒大學畢業的學生

法國戛納電影節是國際上最具影響力的電影節之一，與德

俱樂部舉辦的，每年一次，已有二十多年的歷史。卡慕世家的酒

在對話環節，與會嘉賓圍繞「時代巨變，任何一個國家似乎

國的柏林電影節、意大利的威尼斯電影節、加拿大的多倫多電

類大師 Patrick Léger 和烈酒專家 Alexandre Vingtier 參加了本次

都無法獨善其身，作為酒水制造商，如何協調發展本國市場與國

影節以及捷克的卡羅維發利電影節合稱為世界五大電影節。《國

白酒品鑒會。

際市場？同一個世界、同一個市場，面對市場都趨於相同之時，

酒》是中國第一部白酒題材的電影，茅台酒的故事和影響力自身

品酒會圍繞著對白酒歷史，對各種白酒的品嚐和對比進行

如何實現產品的差異化、價值的稀缺性？面對全球不同國家、不

就有很好的宣傳效應，中國電影海外推廣公司展位的《國酒》的

了專業介紹。被選中參加品鑒的中國白酒有五種，四個品種來

同膚色、不同習俗的消費群，如何去面對面的搶占更多的市場版

海報、宣傳片吸引了海外客商了解、駐足觀看。據制作方透露，

自貴州茅台，另外一種來自五糧液。其中，貴州茅台攜 53 度飛

圖？消費問題終究還是經濟問題，世界經濟的低迷面前，未來世

電影《國酒》已入選國家新聞出版廣電總局今年的中國電影海外

天茅台酒（2015 年），53 度飛天茅台酒（ 2013 年）、53 度飛天茅

界的消費高地在哪裡？」等話題進行了討論，紛紛表示將加強相

展映計劃，五月下旬還將又一次應邀到法國，在有「歐洲第二首

台卡慕小批量勾兌（ 2012 年），飛天傳奇中國系列李白版（2013

互之間的交流和合作，為推動世界名酒企業交流合作作貢獻。

都」之稱的斯特拉斯堡進行展映，再次光影傳情，銀幕飄香。

年）亮相品鑒會。此外，在品鑒會宴會期間，貴州茅台還為大家

（記者 陳露露 王媛）

82

On April 7, 2016, a baijiu tasting activity was held at the Plessis Château of Maison Camus. With a history of over 20 years, the annual tasting activity

of Italy, Toronto Film Festival of Canada, and Karlovy Vary Film Festival of the

世界酒業聯盟主席司馬安·希莫尼奇、比利時布魯塞爾國際酒類

多機遇和市場空間。

Moutai Presented at the Plessis Baijiu Tasting Activity

（通訊員 陳我權）

MOUTAI Magazine

奉上了 2013 年 53 度飛天國宴專供酒。

MOUTAI Magazine

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香飄世界百年 相伴民族復興 The Aroma of a Century The Revival of a Nation