Reflection 上下天光
M EE T T HE T E AM
CONTRIBUTORS J. Tsui
CHINA KWEICHOW MOUTAI DISTILLERY (GROUP) CO., LTD. Maotai, Renhuai City, Guizhou Province, China 564501 KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD. Maotai, Renhuai City, Guizhou Province, China 564501
Consultant : Li Baofang, Wang Yan Production & Advertising Sales Agent: ER HONGKONG HOLDING LIMITED Room 2103, 21/F, Sino Plaza, No.255-257 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 3580 2598 Fax: (852) 3580 2588
Not only a renowned DJ and classical music contributor, he is also good at life style story telling. With Master degree in Buddhist studies from the University of Hong Kong, he starts history research and publishes articles on the Stand News, Music Lover etc.
Samuel Siu Publisher Francis Wong Chief Executive Officer Christine Yin Chief Executive Editor Jocelyn Chenlin Liao Art Director Johnny Woo Senior Project Editor Laura Su, Spencer Hua, Olivia Kwan Photographer Han Xingxi, Li Lewei Translator Billy Yung, Spencer Hua Project PR Meng Yuan, Mocha Du Marketing Executive Nikita Wan Advertising Enquiry Tel: (852) 3580 2598 Email: er-hk@everreliable.net
RIGHTS
Moutai Magazine (International Edition)
is published quarterly by ER HONGKONG HOLDING LIMITED under a license by KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD. Reprints, copy or use of any content in this magazine whether in whole or in part, shall only be allowed with the explicit written permission of KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD. No responsibility can be taken for unsolicited texts and photographs. The views and opinions expressed or implied in the articles do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher, editors or the license holder. All contents in this magazine have been complied with the best of our knowledge, but no warranty or representation is given as to its accuracy, completeness, relevance, timeliness or otherwise. Moutai Magazine (international edition) appears quarterly with editions published under cooperation or license in two languages. Sponsor: Top Gainer Industrial Limited
As an aviation geek and travel enthusiast, Samuel Siu has visited many exotic destinations and “forbidden areas” for vintage aircraft spotting and experiencing, including Iran and North Korea. Samuel used to be an infographic designer and also worked as a renowned radio news anchor in Hong Kong, where he collected unique insights on lifestyle.
Special Thanks :
DEC 2018
“There is no excellent beauty that hath not some strangeness in the proportion.” -- Francis Bacon A spirit of inquiry will lead you to the extraordinary beauty. In Moutai Magazine issue 22, we will: Enjoy the pink Santiago; Probe deeply into 2018 Moutai’s annual Overseas Distributors Convention, Foreseeing Moutai’s sustainable potential; Discuss whether Moutai is a luxury; Continue experiencing the “Taste of China”; Witness the 3rd Moutai Cup horse racing in Italy; Appreciate Su Shi’s Eternal Poetries from the Northern Song Dynasty; Follow the steps of young Haruki Murakami into “The Old Blind Cat”; Recall a brief history of Bob Dylan’s “Bootleg”; Discover great wisdom in the small space, Searching for the distinct beauty.
天地 廣闊
「卓越的美無不具有與之相稱的某些奇異之處。」 — 弗·培 根 擁有一顆好奇的心，才能發現不尋常的美。 本期 Moutai Magazine，我們將帶您 ： 前瞻茅台的可持續發展後勁 ； 領略粉紅色的聖地亞哥風情 ； 探討茅台是否為奢侈品 ； 繼續體驗「 『醉』是中國味」推廣活動 ； 目睹第三屆意大利茅台杯馬術比賽盛況 ； 品味北宋蘇軾關於瓊漿玉液的千古佳句 ； 跟隨村上春樹的腳步， 一瞥他年輕時常去的爵士酒吧「瞎眼老貓」 ； 回溯諾貝爾文學獎得主鮑勃迪倫的「私釀」簡史 ； 發現小空間裡的大文章， 尋找不一樣的美。
Glittering and Translucent 晶瑩 6
CON TE N T
MOUTAI Magazine
M OUTAI MAGAZINE
C ONT EN T
ISSUE #22 2018
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SPECIAL 茅台有可持續後勁
10
Is Moutai a Luxury? 茅台是不是奢侈品？
22
The Taste of China: Event Partners Introduction Part II 醉是中國味：精選餐廳 Part II
26
Moutai Has Sustainable Potential
ETIQUETTE 禮
44
10 54
C O V E R STO RY
The cover is inspired by the human and cultural landscape elements from Africa and South America, where Moutai will soon set foot on.
茅台將踏上非洲和南美大陸，本期封面融合了兩個大陸的元素。
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Moutai on the Horse Back: the 3rd Moutai Cup Horse Racing in Italy 馬背上的茅台 : 第三屆義大利茅台杯馬術比賽盛況
38
Santiago The Pink 粉紅色的聖地亞哥
46
A Brief History of Bob Dylan's "Bootleg" 諾貝爾文學獎得主鮑勃迪倫的「私釀」簡史
54
The Old Blind Cat: A Jazz Bar Frequented by the Young Haruki Murakami 「瞎眼老貓」：村上春樹年輕時常去的爵士酒吧
60
Liquor Cup in Turbulences: Nectar of Northern Song Dynasty and Su Shi's Eternal Poetries 風波裡的酒杯——從北宋的瓊漿玉液到蘇軾的千古佳句
66
Great Wisdom in Small Space 小空間裡的大文章
72
Moutai on the World Map 茅台在全球
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Moutai Has Sustainable Potential 茅台有可持續後勁
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A
t Moutai's annual Overseas Distributors
"From Moutai culture to cultural Moutai, what do we
Convention, the speech of Li Baofang, Chairman
need to express? There will be a systematic approach next
and General Manager of Moutai Group, attracted
year."
much attention from the industry: How to evaluate the trend
"At present, we have not really found effective
of Moutai during the transitional period? What will be the
ways or measures to open up overseas markets and
focus of future development?
attract consumers. The main reason lies in the lack of
At the end of the year, the signals released by Moutai
internationalized comprehensive talents, and the slow
executives are all "real stuff" with data, opinions and logic.
process of establishing overseas offices, which leads the
Moutai's current situation in 2018 and trend in 2019 can be
service to lag behind. Therefore, we must adhere to and
learned from these words.
highlight problem solution and make up the shortage."
Signal 1 2019: Strengthen the construction of cultural Moutai and improve service quality
Signal 2 Moutai product positioning: Let the market and consumers decide Another important point that Li Baofang talked about
"We must emphasize cultural construction and
was product positioning.
enhance service quality. At present, Moutai liquor is in a
"In recent years, people from all walks of life have been
seller's market. What do we do in this case? We must focus
constantly debating whether Moutai products are luxury
must regard culture and service as the top priority of the
Moutai needn't be entangled in this matter."
on culture and services. Whether at home or abroad, we
goods or the affordable liquor of ordinary people. Actually,
marketing work next year."
Li Baofang said that due to the scarcity of Moutai
Li Baofang highlighted his analysis on the construction
liquor and the particularity of the contradiction between
of cultural Moutai and the improvement of service quality. 12
supply and demand in the market, the awareness for the 13
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can't ignore the issue of price and must express our views in
quality and brand of Moutai liquor from all walks of life had
this regard."
been constantly improved. Under the trend of expanding
"We can responsibly say here today, for this year and a
consumer groups and increasing consumption upgrading,
period of time in the future, the price of either Moutai liquor
we needn't be particular about how this product should be
or Moutai series liquor will not be adjusted."
positioned.
Li Baofang emphasized, "This is a reassurance. We will
"Let the market and consumers decide the positioning,
not adjust the price again. The ex-factory prices of Moutai
which is more compliant with the laws of market-oriented
liquor and Moutai series liquor will not change."
economy and the requirements of market choice."
Li Baofang said, "Our enterprise needn't decide who or
Signal 4 Overseas market supply: modest increase in the coming year, the scale depends on the domestic market
what groups can drink Moutai. Relatively affluent people can drink more. People with ordinary income can drink Moutai during festivals. Now most families can afford a bottle of
Moutai during the Mid-Autumn Festival and New Year's Eve." "Therefore, the consumer group positioning of Moutai
What is the trend of Moutai's overseas market when
liquor should be left to the market, and our enterprise needn't be entangled in this issue."
Moutai is in short supply in the domestic market?
Signal 3 Scarcity doesn't mean sky-high price: Prices of Moutai liquor and Moutai series liquor will not change
market based on the number of 10%. The current ratio of
"We have always planned the scale of Moutai's overseas
overseas market is about 7%." Li Baofang analyzed that
there was still 3%, that is, a volume of nearly 1,000 tons.
"So the next step is to make good use of this 3% gap
and make a modest increase. According to the current trend,
Moutai liquor is a scarce resource, but why do we still
I believe that Moutai liquor can still be easily sold with the
need to control the price?
increase of 1,000 tons in the overseas market."
"Scarcity doesn't mean sky-high price. We shouldn't set
Li Baofang said that according to the demands from the
the price to the highest level because of insufficient supply."
distributors of various countries for increasing Moutai liquor
price was the best test for us.
overseas market in 2019. However, whether to fully increase
Li Baofang pointed out that consumers' recognition of the
sales, Moutai Group may modestly increase the supply for
"Setting at what price must depend on the feelings
the ratio to 10% in 2019 depends on the domestic market
of ordinary people. The price of Moutai liquor should be
balance.
managed properly. Scarcity doesn't mean sky-high price. We
"At present, less than 1/3 of the domestic demand is
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met, and the shortage of Moutai liquor will remain for a long
tremendous efforts made by all Moutai employees. "We did
coordinated to get things done."
kinds of work."
not leave retreat for ourselves, but devoted ourselves to all
time. The domestic and overseas markets need to be well
"This year's major economic indicators will be achieved
Signal 5 Review of 2018: Moutai's development is solid and sustainable
according to the plan. In fact, the actual results will be better than the plan and expectations."
Li Baofang emphasized, "Moutai's development
potential is sustainable. It will keep growing. We have this
Recently, Moutai's stock price has fluctuated, and all
confidence and capability."
walks of life are concerned about the development trend of
Signal 6 2019: strive for "100 billion"
Moutai. Li Baofang went straight to the sensitive topic and expressed his views.
"Does Moutai still have further potential? Do we need
For 2019, Li Baofang summed up in one sentence, "We
to boost market confidence? There are 40 days before 2019, and we can review this year now."
will strive for '100 billion'."
December 31 this year, our conclusion and pre-judgment
possible and with no upper limit or retreat'. This year, we still
"Last year, we put forward a principle: 'Be as fast as
"Judging from the current trend and the period before
adhere to this principle to arrange the work next year."
for Moutai's development might be pretty close to the fact:
According to Li Baofang's analysis, he could foresee
In the year of 2018, Moutai's various tasks are progressing
smoothly and very effectively. In particular, major issues and
that Moutai's growth was considerable and the prospects
is normal, the market and prices are stable, and the effi-
responsibly live up to expectations, and strive for a better
were promising in the coming year. "We will work hard and
key tasks have been implemented properly, the production
development. I think Moutai will not let anyone down."
ciency is steadily improved."
Li Baofang recalled his feelings when listening to
The efficiency improvement can be told by data. Li
Baofang used 2015 as a reference. "In the year when I came
President Xi Jinping's speech. "President Xi said that 'The
RMB, and this year it will exceed 80 billion RMB. On such a
economy remain unchanged. The necessary production
fundamentals for sound and stable growth of the Chinese
to work at Moutai, Moutai's sales revenue was 50 billion
factors for high-quality development remain unchanged.
huge base, Moutai still has a double-digit growth, which is
And the overall momentum of long-term stability and
rare and not easy in Chinese enterprises."
progress remains unchanged'. This is a great advantage for
Li Baofang said that this growth was attributed to
Moutai."
not only the support of Moutai distributors but also the 15
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年一度的茅台海外經銷大會上，茅台集團董事長、
服務當成明年營銷工作的重中之重來抓。」
走勢怎樣評價？未來發展的重點會是什麽？
的分析 .
總經理李保芳的講話備受業界關註：轉型期的茅台
李保芳著重發表了他對關於文化茅台建設和提升服務質量
歲末將至，茅台高層釋放的信號全是「幹貨」，有數據、
「從茅台文化到文化茅台，我們究竟需要表達什麽？明年
有觀點、有邏輯。 2018 年的茅台現狀，以及 2019 年的茅台
會有一個系統的思路。」
趨勢，字裏行間足可捕捉。
「目前來看，我們還未真正找到打開海外市場、吸引消費
者的有效辦法和措施。主要在於缺乏國際化復合型人才，海外
信號 一 2019 年：加強文化茅台建設、提升服務質量
辦事處設立進程緩慢，導致服務跟不上。對此，必須堅持和突 出問題導向，著力補齊短板。」
信號 二 茅台產品定位：交給市場和消費者去決定
「我們要突出抓文化建設，要強化服務質量的提高。當下，
茅台酒是賣方市場，並不愁賣。在這個情況下，做什麽？一個 是做文化，再一個做服務，不管是國內國外，要把這個文化和
16
三十，給自己的家人買一瓶茅台喝？」
李保芳談到的另一個重點，是關於產品定位。
「因此，關於茅台酒的消費群體定位，應該交給市場決定，
「最近這幾年， 各界一直在茅台產品的定位到底是奢侈品，
企業自己沒有必要在這個問題上糾纏。」
還是老百姓喝得起的酒的問題上，不停地進行爭論。茅台不必 在這個事上糾結。」
信號 三 稀缺不等於天價：茅台酒和系列酒不會動價
李保芳說，鑒於茅台酒資源的稀缺性、市場的供需矛盾特
殊性，社會各界對其品質、品牌的認知度不斷提升，在消費群 體不斷擴大、消費升級不斷凸顯的趨勢下，我們不必拘泥於這
茅台酒是稀缺資源，那為什麽還要管控價格？
個產品應該怎麽定位。
「稀缺資源不等於就是天價，不要因為短缺，而把價格定
「定位可以交給市場，交給消費者，這樣更加符合市場經
位於最高。」李保芳指出，消費者對價格認同，才是對我們的
濟規律和市場選擇的要求。」
最好檢驗。
李保芳說：「企業沒有必要定位什麽人可以喝、什麽群體
「到底定在什麽價位，要看老百姓的感受。茅台酒的價格
可以喝茅台酒。收入比較富裕的可以多喝一些，收入不富裕的
不能放任自流。稀缺不等於就是天價，在價格這個問題上，我
人過年喝一次——現在大部分家庭，誰家不可以在中秋、大年 17
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行適度增加。我認為，以現在趨勢看，現在海外市場再增加
們不能不管，也不能不表達我們這方面的觀點。」
1000 噸並不愁賣。」
「我們今天在這裏可以負責任地說， 今年和今後一段時
李保芳表示，根據各國經銷商對茅台酒銷售增量的要求，
間，不管是茅台酒、系列酒，價格不會再做調整。」
2019 年可以適度增加海外投放。但來年是否一步到位，將投
李保芳一字一句地強調：「這是一個定心丸，我們不會再
放增加到 10%，得看國內的市場平衡情況。
調價，茅台酒和系列酒的出廠價格不會動價。」
「目前，國內市場的真正滿足程度尚不足 1/3，茅台酒的
信號 四
短缺現象將長期存在，國內、海外兩個市場需要好好統籌，才 能把事做好。」
海外市場供給： 來年適度增加，增幅看國內市場
信號 五 盤點 2018：茅台發展根基穩固、後勁可持續
茅台在國內供不應求，在海外市場的趨勢會是怎樣？
「茅台海外市場的規模可以有多大，我們一直在按照
近來，茅台股市出現波動，各界都在關註茅台的發展走勢。
10% 去規劃，現在的占比大概是 7% 左右。」李保芳分析說，
李保芳直入敏感話題，表達自己的觀點。
還有 3 個點，也就是將近 1000 噸的量。
「茅台到底還有沒有後勁？需不需要提振市場信心？還有
「所以下一步，我們要很好地把這個 3% 的空間用好，進 18
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40 天就跨入 2019 年了，今年可以盤點了。」
信號 六 2019：奔著「千億」走
「從目前趨勢看，到今年 12 月 31 日前，我們對茅台發
展的定性和預判八九不離十，不會有大的偏差：2018 這一年， 茅台各項工作推進順利、效果很好。特別是重大事項、重點工
關於 2019 年，李保芳用了一句話來概括：「我們會奔著
作，做得都不錯：生產正常、市場穩定、價格平穩，效益穩步 提高。」
『千億』去。」
參照：「我來茅台工作的那一年，茅台的銷售收入 500 億，
不留退路』， 今年仍然本著這三句話的原則， 安排好明年工作。」
位數的增長，這在中國的企業裏，並不多見，也很不容易。」
前景可期。「我們會負責任地做好工作，夙夜在公，埋頭苦
茅台全體員工所付出的巨大努力。「我們沒給自己留余地，而
失望！」
「去年，我們就提出一個原則，『能快則快、不留余地、
這個效益提高，可以用數據說話。李保芳用 2015 年作為
李保芳分析指出，我們可以預見，茅台來年的增長可觀、
今年將會超過 800 億。在那麽龐大的基數之上，茅台還有兩
幹，不負眾望，爭取一個更理想的發展，我想茅台不會讓大家
李保芳說，這個增長的背後，有茅台經銷商的支持，也有
李保芳回憶了他在上海國際進口博覽會上，聆聽習近平主
是全身心投入來抓各項工作。」
「今年的主要經濟指標都能完成計劃，而且，實際結果將
席演講的感受。 「習主席講了，中國經濟發展健康穩定的基
李保芳強調：「我可以負責任地講，茅台發展的基礎是穩
期穩中向好的總體勢頭沒有改變，對於茅台而言，這是一個極
本面沒有改變，支撐高質量發展的生產要素條件沒有改變，長
超過計劃、超過預期。」
大的利好。」
固的，後勁是可持續的，不會不增長，更不會出現負增長。茅 台有這個底氣，也有這個能力。」
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Is Moutai a Luxury? 茅台是不是奢侈品？
B
"Let the market and consumers decide the positioning,
efore thinking about this question, let's first look
which is more compliant with the laws of market-oriented
at the definition of luxury:
economy and the requirements of market choice."
Internationally, luxury is defined as "a kind of
Li Baofang said, "Our enterprise needn't decide who or
consumer goods beyond the scope of people's survival and
what groups can drink Moutai. Relatively affluent people can
development needs, with such characteristics as unique and
drink more. People with ordinary income can drink Moutai
scarce", also known as non-necessities of life.
during festivals. Now most families can afford a bottle of
In economics, luxury refers to a product with the highest
Moutai during the Mid-Autumn Festival and New Year's Eve."
ratio of value to quality. From another perspective, luxury
"Therefore, the consumer group positioning of Moutai
refers to a product with the highest ratio of intangible value
liquor should be left to the market, and our enterprise
to tangible value.
needn't be entangled in this issue."
According to the above analysis, Moutai liquor has
Indeed, the concept of luxury is constantly expanding.
various factors to be a luxury. In China, it has become a
It changes with the times and has different representative
symbol of identity, taste and economic status.
products in different periods.
There are three major spirits in the world: French brandy,
In China, for example, in the 1980s, luxury goods for
Scotch whisky, and China's Moutai. French brandy can
be produced in hundreds of miles, while Moutai liquor is
people referred to watches, sewing machines and bicycles.
water quality, soil, raw materials and other reasons.
refrigerators and telephones.
After that, they were gradually replaced by televisions,
produced only in Moutai Town because of the local climate,
In other words, these items have changed from the
In addition, the brewing industry must rely on traditional
"luxury" in the early impressions to the necessities of today,
technique and the liquor cannot be replicated on a large
which is determined by the market.
scale. As a result, the output is limited. Besides, Moutai must
The focus should not be on whether Moutai is a luxury,
be stored for five years before sales. Rarity leads to high
but on the effort to constantly perfect the product.
value. All these lay the foundation for Moutai to be defined
Li Baofang also said, "Judging from the current trend and
as a luxury.
the period before December 31 this year, our conclusion and
So is Moutai surely a luxury?
pre-judgment for Moutai's development might be pretty
Li Baofang, Chairman and General Manager of Moutai
close to the fact: In the year of 2018, Moutai's various tasks
Group, said, "In recent years, people from all walks of life
are progressing smoothly and very effectively. In particular,
have been constantly debating whether Moutai products
major issues and key tasks have been implemented
are luxury goods or the affordable liquor of ordinary people.
properly, the production is normal, the market and prices
Actually, Moutai needn't be entangled in this matter."
are stable, and the efficiency is steadily improved."
Due to the scarcity of Moutai liquor and the particularity
Moutai's development is solid, its potential is sustainable,
of the contradiction between supply and demand in the
and it will keep growing. Moutai has this confidence and
market, the awareness for the quality and brand of Moutai
capability.
liquor from all walks of life have been constantly improved.
Then, let's wait and see the future development of
Under the trend of expanding consumer groups and
Moutai.
increasing consumption upgrading, we needn't be particular
The market will give us the answer.
about how this product should be positioned. 22
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在
NATURE 天
MOUTAI Magazine
思考這個問題之前，我們先看一看關於奢侈品的定 義：
有茅台鎮上才產。
濟規律和市場選擇的要求。」
而成為了如今的必需品，這都是市場所決定的。
量有限，茅台必須窖藏五年才能上市，物以稀為貴，這奠定了
可以喝茅台酒。收入比較富裕的可以多喝一些，收入不富裕的
求精才是重中之重。
三十，給自己的家人買一瓶茅台喝？」
我們對茅台發展的定性和預判八九不離十，不會有大的偏差，
企業自己沒有必要在這個問題上糾纏。」
大事項、重點工作，做得都不錯，生產正常、市場穩定、價格
加之，釀酒業必須依賴傳統的工藝，無法大規模複製，產
奢侈品在國際上被定義為「一種超出人們生存
其定義為奢侈品的基礎。
與發展需要範圍的，具有獨特、稀缺、珍奇等特點的消費品」， 又稱為非生活必需品。
那麼茅台是奢侈品一事已經板上釘釘了嗎？
奢侈品在經濟學上講，指的是價值 / 品質關係比值最高的
茅台集團董事長、總經理李保芳提及：「最近這幾年，各
產品。從另外一個角度上看，奢侈品又是指無形價值 / 有形價
界一直在茅台產品的定位到底是奢侈品，還是老百姓喝得起的
值關係比值最高的產品。
酒的問題上，不停地進行爭論。茅台不必在這個事上糾結。」
從上述來看，茅台是具備成為奢侈品的因素的。茅台酒在
鑒於茅台酒資源的稀缺性、市場的供需矛盾特殊性，社會
中國，已經是身份、品位和經濟地位的象徵與符號。
各界對其品質、品牌的認知度不斷提升，在消費群體不斷擴大、
忌和中國的茅台。法國的白蘭地，方圓幾百里產的都可以，而
麼定位。
另一方面，世界上有三大酒：法國的白蘭地、英國的威士
茅台酒因為當地的氣候、水質、土壤、原料等多方面原因，只 24
李保芳說：「企業沒有必要定位什麼人可以喝、什麼群體
關注的不應該是茅台是否為奢侈品的問題，而讓產品精益
人過年喝一次——現在大部分家庭，誰家不可以在中秋、大年
李保芳也說道：「從目前趨勢看，到今年 12 月 31 日前，
「因此，關於茅台酒的消費群體定位，應該交給市場決定，
2018 這一年，茅台各項工作推進順利、效果很好。特別是重
確實，奢侈品的概念是不斷延伸的，它隨著時代的變化而
平穩，效益穩步提高。」
變化，在不同的時期有著不同的代表產品。
茅台發展的基礎是穩固的，後勁是可持續的，不會不增長，
例如在中國上世紀 80 年代，對人們來說「奢侈品」就是
消費升級不斷凸顯的趨勢下，我們不必拘泥於這個產品應該怎
手錶、縫紉機、自行車「三大件」，此後便漸漸衍變為了電視
「定位可以交給市場，交給消費者，這樣更加符合市場經
也就是說，這些物品從初期人們印象里的「奢侈品」，轉
更不會出現負增長。茅台有這個底氣，也有這個能力。 就讓我們對茅台的未來發展拭目以待吧！
機、電冰箱與電話。
市場終會給我們答案！
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DEC 2018
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MOUTAI Magazine
The Taste of China In order to cater to the rising demand of the Hong Kong market, Moutai has selected Hong Kong local restaurants for the first time to promote Chinese culture and national quintessence. In the crush of Chinese and Western cultures, food and wine, Moutai is opening a new journey of taste. What is the real Chinese flavor? Everyone has a different answer. Hong Kong, as a famous food capital among the world, has gathered more than 15,000 restaurants in the 1105-square-kilometer city. There are Michelin restaurants, and also street shops that look ugly but with astonishing food, as well as the ancient cuisine that has been passed down for centuries. In the previous Moutai Magazine, we introduced 10 restaurants that participated in the “Taste of China” promotion. In this issue, we will offer you:
Event Partners Introduction Part II 精選餐廳 Part II
TEXT/ 文 Hua
為了迎合需求不斷上升的香港市場，茅台酒首次精選香港本地餐廳合作，傳揚東 方文化，弘揚中華國粹，在中西文化碰撞的花火中，美食加美酒，開啓一個全新 的味覺文化之旅。 到底什麼才是真正的中國味？每個人都有不一樣的答案。香港，作為馳名中外的 美食之都，在 1105 平方公里的彈丸之地匯聚超過 15000 家餐廳。這裡有「星」 光四射的米芝蓮餐廳，也有其貌不揚、味道驚喜的街邊小店，也有傳承百年的古 早味道。
在上一期世界之醉中，我們介紹了 10 家參與此次「醉」是中國味推廣活動的餐廳， 本期再為大家奉上：
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MOUTAI Magazine
Lao Xue Yuan 老雪園
Lao Xue Yuan first opened in 1986 as Snow Garden
Restaurant in North Point. Its exceptional service and
exquisite Shanghainese dishes including pan fried pork
bun, braised pork knuckle and xiao long bao had made it
an institution with diners, including Macau casino magnate Stanley Ho and late Hong Kong entertainment mogul Sir Run Run Shaw.
In 2017, Lao Xue Yuan found its new home in Wanchai
and is delivering a modern twist to traditional Shanghainese cuisine. Signature dishes such as Wuxi style crispy eel, stir
fried river shrimp, and smoked camphor tea duck, delight the palettes of all generations.
In the Moutai Menu created by Lijia Company and the
Snow Garden Restaurant, it has not only precious delicacies but also home-made salty chicken, yellow fish with sweet and sour sauce and other signature dishes included.
一九八六年，雪園在當年稱為「小上海」的北角區開業。
這間由已故揚州菜名廚於久錫徒弟蔣標與三位擅長滬菜的廚師
合作，全盛時期有六家店，在當時可算是家喻戶曉的本幫菜館。 2009 年北角雪園結業，八年後重開，重現昔日菜式。
食家蔡瀾曾這樣形容：「北角的雪園，當年來說，已算是
新派了。現在大多數上海菜館，做得好一點的，問師傅是什麼 地方出身，都說是『雪園』。」作為名人飯堂，何鴻燊、邵逸 夫夫婦都是捧場客，更是上海菜的少林寺木人巷，如米芝蓮一 星餐廳夜上海、浙江軒總廚都是出身雪園。
名人李嘉誠、周潤發、唯靈等都是名人飯堂北角雪園的座
上客，當年結業後，今天總廚蔣標之子蔣偉源重開老雪園，與 食客再續前緣。在這摩登餐廳中，必試已故邵逸夫爵士也愛吃 的生煎包，做法是先用水煎二十分鐘，中途要不停轉動鐵鑊， 保持生煎包受熱均勻，最後熄火焗八分鐘。招牌美食中，樟茶 鴨、無錫脆鱔、脆皮素鵝等等亦是大考功夫手藝之作，幸而老 雪園廚房有一半都是舊班子，因此能保持一貫水準。
在此次利佳實業與老雪園共同推出的茅台菜單中，除了山
珍海味還有招牌上海美食，招牌美食中，樟茶鴨、無錫脆鱔、 脆皮素鵝等等亦是大考功夫手藝之作。 28
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MOUTAI Magazine
Wako Teppanyaki 和幸創作鐵板料理
Creativity and expertise of authentic teppanyaki cuisine.
homemade jujube longan syrup and passion fruit liqueur
Featuring the cosy and casual setting of izakaya bar, the
etc.
restaurant aims to redefine the teppanyaki reputation for being over-the-top and unapproachable.
和幸創作鐵板料理，結合傳統鐵板燒和居酒屋，請來日本
Redefining traditional teppanyaki cuisine in a friendly,
了一系列由玉石珠寶盒誘發靈感的獨特空間。這獨特的「玉石
成漢堡扒，以攝氏 230 度鐵板香煎三至五成熟，加上特製醬
restaurant’s rich heritage and elegant jade theme-while
的珍寶——粵菜藝術。璀璨奪目的維多利亞港與以玉石鑲制的
在漢堡扒上，層次豐富、非常惹味。
jewellery box which opens to reveal layers of treasured
名物「和牛漢堡扒」嚴選宮崎 A5 和牛，以西冷及大腿部分製
Teppanyaki in Hachioji, Tokyo. Customers of Dai Yang
汁調味，淋上白酒後香氣十足，最後將即煎日本雞蛋和芝士鋪
Heen included famous baseball athletes as well as former Japanese Prime Minister Mr. Abe Shinzo.
Teppanyaki – complemented by renowned Sake Sommelier Kikisake-Shi by Japan’s Sake Service Institute (SSI). Randy
的創意菜式。
清甜，平衡鐵板燒烤物的油膩感，是必點菜式。
exploration and celebration of the restaurant’s new era with
年粵菜經驗，一直薈萃廚藝精要以扎實功架感動中外饕客的味
modern flair.
粵菜推向新境界，希望為所有食客帶來驚喜不斷。
是首位獲得 Sake Service Institute（SSI）名譽唎酒師資格的
prestigious range of sakes and wines.
香港人，為客人選配合適清酒佐餐。
Randy created 3 cocktails coordinating with Lijia
此次利佳實業與和幸共同推出三款獨具風格的茅台雞尾
Company with Moutai: Thank You Very Much, Moutai
酒：謝主隆恩，冰湖秋月和茅檸醋，獨一無二的配方和口味更
Vinegar and Full Moon on Ice Lake, featuring jasmine tea,
是從未出現過。 30
欣圖軒重視食材的新鮮度，強調用合適和傳統的烹調手法
experience with the hotel, having first joined the restaurant
店內還有知名唎酒師 Randy Au 坐鎮，他同樣大有來頭，
helms the bar, recommending pairing the delicacies with a
精美餐具及細緻華美的餐廳設計相互輝映，整體風格洗練高雅。
showcasing a unique series of spaces inspired by a jade
鐵板上烹煮，法塔紙袋內有日本捲心菜、紅魚、松茸、日本菇、 大蔥和日式高湯，只需煮五分鐘，即傳來陣陣松茸香味，味道
Randy Au, the first in Hong Kong awarded the title Honorary
珠寶盒」內有不同間隔，收藏著各有千秋的寶藏及廣東文化中
Yan Toh Heen, designed by CAP-ATELIER, preserves the
引出食材原本的鮮美滋味，而擺盤造型也講究獨到。此外，除
就利用可承受高溫的法塔紙造成袋子，注入海鮮湯後直接放在
introduces a modern, casual twist to the tradition at Wako
欣圖軒裝潢保留了象徵傳承和優雅的玉石主題，同時構築
Yan Toh Heen is located opposite Harbour side with a
collectables and discoveries of Cantonese culinary arts.
鐵板燒大多是肉類，同屬招牌名物的「和幸法塔紙包湯」，
The master of authentic teppanyaki cuisine now
榮獲米芝蓮二星及福布斯五星的中菜餐廳欣圖軒被譽為全
world’s finest Chinese restaurants specializing in Cantonese stunning view of Victoria Harbour.
和幸設有開放式鐵板燒吧台，方便大廚和食客互動。招牌
experience mastering the art of teppanyaki, including
tutelage by his father, a chef at the legendary Taiyoken
Travel Guide, Yan Toh Heen is recognized as one of the
球最佳粵菜食府，擁有絕佳維港景致。
地道風味。
Head Chef Tomariya Masaki brings over 25 years of
欣圖軒
Recipient of 2-Michelin Stars and 5 Stars from Forbes
cuisine.
資深總廚泊谷真樹坐鎮，以時令食材炮製精緻和食料理，極富
informal Tokyo-style ‘izakaya’ sake and whisky dining bar.
Yan Toh Heen
了傳統粵菜及各款招牌菜式，餐廳更供應隨著時令而不斷推新
Executive Chef Lau Yiu Fai, who has over 30 years of
欣圖軒背後的靈魂人物行政總廚劉耀輝師傅擁有超過三十
when it opened in 1984, invites diners on a culinary
蕾。劉師傅的創新意念亦別樹一格，層出不窮的新菜式致力把
exquisite new Cantonese dishes that blend tradition with
為了配合此次「醉」是中國味推廣，利佳實業與欣圖軒聯
The restaurant created a cocktail named China James
Bon, mixing Moutai with Martini and pineapple juice to
手特別推出的茅台雞尾酒，名為 China James Bon，將茅台
Asian aroma.
獨具一格的亞洲風情。
與馬蒂尼混合，再加入新鮮菠蘿汁，增強白酒的味道，創造出
enrich the flavor of Moutai and demonstrate the unique
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MOUTAI Magazine
Dragon Gown 龍袍
Dragon Seal 龍璽
"Cooking is like living—always be considerate towards
others 'needs'", "Cooking requires from mind and heart"
said by the founder of Dragon Gown Mr. Wong Wing Chee. Mr. Wong was born in a family of culinary masters. His
father is a renowned chef. Influenced by his father, Chee
loves culinary arts since he was a child. In 1978, Chee was hired as Chef in Tsui Hang Village in Miramar Hotel which
is the best Chinese restaurant in town. In 1982, Lei Garden hired Chee. After three years, he was promoted as head
龍袍酒家創始人黃永幟先生出身自廚藝世家，新主意特多，
chef who was the youngest one in Hong Kong. From 1987 to 1992, Chee went to Australia and US to learn and enrich his
待人彬彬有禮。其父親在行內亦是響當當的大師級人馬，黃先
indeed inspires him to create a lot of gourmet dishes in
店翠亨村任中廚師。當年為全港第一間新派中菜酒家，開創一
生自小在父親的耳濡目染下熱愛廚藝，1978 年入職美麗華酒
knowledge in culinary arts. Different precious experience
代先河。1982 年加入利苑酒家，於 1985 年升任大廚，為最年
future. In 1992, Lei Garden hired him as an Executive Chef.
輕的大廚。1987 至 92 年，黃先生自費到澳洲及美國名酒家學
He assisted to expand the company business to Guangzhou
習，汲取各國的烹飪之道，為日後提供不竭的靈感。1992 年
and Singapore. The Company was awarded as the best restaurant.
101st floor of ICC in Kowloon, the main aesthetic attraction
例如從新加坡入口鰐魚配合阿拉斯加巨蟹泡制「鰐魚巨蟹宴」，
Kong skyline, as well as a birds-eye view of Kowloon. The
更得到全港最佳食府獎。黃先生喜歡大膽採用各國的罕有食材，
Chee is adventurous and creative in blending new
and rare ingredients in his cooking. For example, once he
以秘制中式手法烹調九州河豚，首創桑拿過橋龍蝦等，屢創飲
used crocodile from Singapore with Alaska King Crab to
食潮流，備受業界和食客推崇。
present a Croco- King-Crab-Feast. Another innovative dish
龍皇集團飲食版圖繼續擴張， 座落於灣仔新鴻基中心的 「龍
is Puffer Fish from Kyushu in Chinese Style. Chee’s passion
Located just below the Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong on the
回港任利苑總廚，協助集團將業務擴展至新加坡和廣州等地，
in inspiring others about culinary has earned him a lot of
袍」新分店，是集團旗下首創高端餐飲嘅品牌，以全新酒店式
Dragon Gown launches two sets of Moutai Menu with
此次利佳實業與龍袍的合作推廣中，除了兩款茅台盛宴以
restaurant is surrounded by floor-to-ceiling windows, and
(ICC)101 樓，天氣晴朗時能眺看維多利亞港及港島區美景，頗
Dragon Seal is chef Wong Wing Chee’s most high-
擺盤中餐，菜單上也有面、飯料理和點心可單點，蛋白蒸龍蝦
positioned right along the windows are the most desirable.
restaurant’s specialties and two cocktails: Moutai Bubble
外，更有特調茅台雞尾酒 Moutai Bubble 和 R Warm 供大家品
abalone, bird’s nest and other premium ingredients such as
Chinese herb syrup and other special ingredients.
多食客來品嘗茅台套餐及茅台雞尾酒。
嘗。同時印制茅台套餐傳單，在寫字樓密集區域派發，吸引更
32
黃永幟主持的龍璽酒家位於全香港最高的環球貿易廣場
although most seats do have a view, naturally the tables end venture yet, and the million-dollar views here are
and R Warm mixing with Moutai, cranberry juice, homemade
attracting numerous customers to come and try.
at Dragon Seal is its stunning views of both the Hong
思維及概念，為食客帶來豐富的餐飲體驗。
friends around the world.
Moutai set launched by Lijia Company and the restaurant is
具水準的新式粵菜贏得眾多老饕的青睞。餐廳提供精緻的西式 球、立方荔芋盒和黑松露素粉果等，都是頗有口碑的菜色。
complemented by an equally pricey menu filled with
在此次利佳實業與龍璽的合作推廣的茅台菜單中，不僅包
括各種山珍海味，更有到店必吃的冰燒三層肉。據經理介紹，
wagyu beef and Alaskan snow crab.
龍璽很多客人都喜歡喝茅台酒，此次推出茅台的茅台晚宴，也
Diners of Dragon Seal are really found of Moutai. The
成為最熱門的到店選擇。 33
DEC 2018
NATURE 天
MOUTAI Magazine
Mott 32
West Villa Restaurant
卅二公館
西苑
Known as an expert in preparing official banquets, the
West Villa Restaurant offers exquisite dishes made with
all-natural ingredients and no MSG. Baby Pigeon Stuffed with Shark’s Fin, Braised Abalone with Goose Web and
the Delicious BBQ Pork are just a few of the restaurant’s
signature dishes. Added to these renowned dishes, fresh seafood and seasonal specialties are available all year round.
In the Moutai Menu created by Lijia Company and West
Villa Restaurant, BBQ Pork and other signature dishes are all included.
西苑是香港老字號的酒樓，1978 年於上環成立第一家店，
多年來為客人提供精緻及創新的廣東菜式，招牌菜式包括大哥 叉燒、仙鶴神針和爵士靚湯，是食客信心之選。
近 30 年來獲獎無數，不少名人明星都是座上客。菜式豐
儉由人，鮑參翅肚當然有素質，大眾化菜式亦不失水準。叉燒
是鎮店之寶，日賣 110 碟。同樣也是 2009 米芝蓮推介食肆， 《紐 約時報》十大食府之一。
此次利佳實業與西苑的合作推廣的茅台菜單中，不僅包括
鎮店之寶大哥叉燒，還有名貴的鮑參翅肚，美食配美酒，讓前 來品嘗美味的食客可以一品茅台香，一品中國味 ! 34
Interior Design and Best Restaurant Reader Choice Award
Mott 32 is named after 32 Mott Street in New York. 32 Mott
by Tatler, No.1 Hot 10 Restaurants in Asia and SCMP 100 Top
Street was the site of NYC’s first Chinese convenience store,
Tables 2014, 2015 and 2016.
which opened in 1851, and was the nucleus for what is now
In the Moutai promotion, Mott 32 will offer Moutai Braised
a vibrant Chinatown in one of the most dynamic cities in the
Formosan Reeve’s Muntjac and 3 cocktails Moutai Hi Ball,
world. This contemporary Chinese restaurant located in the
Fall Moutai and Moutai Fashioned.
heart of Vancouver is a celebration of Hong Kong culture and cuisine.
The provenance of ingredients is paramount and the
卅二公館得名源自美國紐約唐人街 Mott Street 32 號。原
chefs embrace unique flavours discovered globally. The restaurant practices ethical sourcing using organic and
址於 1891 年開設了當地首家中式雜貨店，從此唐人街便於該
closely with farms, never compromising the quality of the
館」亦在溫哥華有分店，匯聚各地文化及各國美食。
處逐步形成，並成為芸芸唐人街中最繁華的佼佼者。「卅二公
sustainable ingredients where possible. Mott 32 works
卅二公館之烹調哲學源於中國歷史悠久之廚藝特色，以至
ingredients that the culinary team present.
世界各地最優質之飲食風味，並以傳統烹調的方式呈現美食最
The chefs use the latest in modern and innovative
質樸及真實的一面。大廚們巧妙地利用現代手法烹調中菜，創
cooking techniques from around the world. The restaurant's
作多款推陳出新的菜式，極具個人風格之余，亦保留傳統風味。
cooking is principally Cantonese with some signature Beijing
一向重視食材的來源，一直堅持以最新鮮及時令的食材製作每
dishes and some of the best Sichuan food in central Hong
一道菜式，希望能於菜式中充份展現食物的真味。廚藝團隊與
Kong, bringing the most out of traditional recipes passed
不同供應商保持緊密聯繫，並採用來自本地或海外的食材，以
down from generation to generation. This particular level of
製作各式各樣的佳餚。
modernity combined with the respect for tradition is what
此次利佳實業與卅二公館的合作推廣中，除了使用茅台
makes Mott 32 so spectacularly unique.
調味製作茅台紅燒黃麖膝，還有三款特調雞尾酒：Moutai Hi
Mott 32 has become one of the most awarded restaurants
Ball, Fall Moutai, Moutai Fashioned 供大家品嘗。
in Hong Kong. Awards include Best New Restaurant, Best
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Champ Kitchen & Bar 炊公館 - 銅鑼灣店
Ah Yat Harbour View Restaurant 阿一海景飯店 - 尖沙咀店
The TST branch is now offering Moutai Set Menu with
Ah Yat Harbour View Restaurant Causeway Bay branch
precious ingredients corresponding to this promotion event
has been introduced in the last issue of Moutai Magazine.
of Moutai.
Here are the Ah Yat Harbour View Restaurant TST branch.
Located in the iSquare in the heart of TST, Ah Yat Harbour
View Restaurant TST branch owns the incredible view of
上期的 Moutai Magazine 中我們介紹了阿一海景飯店銅
the harbour, and it is one of the best spots to watch the A
Symphony of Lights performed every night. It is the same as
鑼灣店，這次帶大家領略尖沙咀分店的美味和美景。
restaurant has been featured in the Michelin Guide for Hong
亞港的無敵景觀，是香港節慶煙花表演及每晚燈光秀「幻彩詠
part of SCMP’s 100 Top Tables for two years. Founded by Eric
米芝蓮星級食肆的殊榮，更曾連續兩年登上《南華早報》100
位於尖沙咀核心 iSquare 商場的阿一海景飯店坐擁維多利
Ah Yat Harbour View Restaurant Causeway Bay branch, the
香江」的絕佳觀賞地點之一。餐廳連續四年在香港及澳門獲得
Kong & Macau for four consecutive years. It has also been
大餐廳之一，是城中的人氣之選。飯店由名廚楊貫一的門生陳
Chan, an apprentice of renowned chef Yeung Koon Yat, Ah
志豪於 2009 年創辦，除了有馳名中外的鮑魚，還有紅酒燴牛尾、
Yat Abalone alongside other original dishes, Stewed Oxtail in
脆皮炸雞及各式傳統點心。
Red Wine Sauce, Golden Fried Crispy Chicken and a variety
與銅鑼灣店一樣，利佳實業與阿一海景飯店合作推出了
of dim sum are all the signature dishes. And with panoramic
一款茅台菜單，其中包括 34 頭皇冠吉品配波蘭鵝掌、釀焗咖
views of Victoria Harbour, the restaurant is a must-visit for
哩鵝肝鮮蟹蓋及原件野生花膠配生面等珍貴食材。
locals and travellers alike.
36
We have introduced the Champ Kitchen & Bar TST branch
launched 2 Moutai Cocktails: Moutai Summer and Moutai
in the last issue of Moutai Magazine. We now present to you
Colada, and let the aroma of Moutai spread throughout the
Champ Kitchen & Bar Causeway Bay branch.
whole Victoria Harbour.
The Champ Kitchen & Bar Causeway Bay branch is
located on 25/F Tower 535 Causeway Bay, which offers
a pleasant ambience and provides a spacious sheltered
上期的 Moutai Magazine 中我們介紹了炊公館尖沙咀店，
verandah, enabling the guests to embrace the magnificent
這次帶大家體驗銅鑼灣分店別具特色的美食和美景。位於銅鑼
unfavourable weather. The Kitchen serves semi-buffet lunch
有蓋露台，就算天氣不似預期，客人都可以零距離擁抱維港景
view of the Victoria Harbour in close proximity even in
灣 Tower 535 25 樓的炊公館銅鑼灣店，環境優雅及設有寬敞
and all-day à la carte salads, snacks, entrées and desserts
色。廚房午市供應半自助餐，並全日供應沙律、小食、主菜及
while the Bar serves craft beers, selected red and white
甜品。酒吧則提供手工啤，精選紅白酒，以至特色鷄尾酒，務
wines as well as exotic cocktails, wholeheartedly designed
求讓賓客印象難忘。與尖沙咀店一樣，利佳實業與炊公館聯手
to leave the guests a memorable impression.
推出了夏日風情和椰林樹影兩款茅台雞尾酒，讓獨特的茅台氣
Same as the TST branch, Lijia company and Moutai
息遍布整個維多利亞港。 37
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馬背上的茅台
the 3rd Moutai Cup Horse Racing in Italy 第三屆義大利茅台杯馬術比賽盛況 Text/ 文 Matteo S. Translate/ 譯 Spencer HUA
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I
f we exclude the races with the chariots of
sea where the main objective is the preservation of animal
developed in a complete way at the end of the
where important gallop races are held and among which, for
the Roman era, in Italy the horse races have
and plant biodiversity. At the center of all it is the racecourse
nineteenth century when the nobles of Milan and Turin
three years, the MOUTAI CUP!
began to devote themselves to the development of breeding
From 2016, MOUTAI ITALIA by Otto Otto Baijiu Srl
for improvement of the breeds to be allocated at the races.
organized the MOUTAI CUP, a race dedicated to purebred
the two world wars due to the great passion that binds Italy
third game was held on Sunday 18 November 2018 and was
In November the Italian horse race was able to resist during
Arabian horses over a distance of at least 2,000 meters. The
to this noble animal.
won, like last year, by a team come from Sweden specifically
As in the rest of the world, even in Italy, horse riding is an
to run this wonderful race.
elite sport that finds its top position in selected racecourses
This event represents a very important moment for
where the best horses from all over Italy and from abroad
MOUTAI ITALIA, both for the investments that are required
kilometers from the famous leaning tower, is one of these,
the manager of MOUTAI ITALIA Gianluca Scalfi tells us, “We
compete. The San Rossore racecourse of Pisa, a few
and for the visibility that this event has at a national level, as
a temple of horse racing immersed in a natural reserve of
are very proud to tie the Moutai brand to the horse world.
over 23,000 hectares that goes from the Tuscan hills to the 40
A prestigious brand and a noble animal is a perfect match. 41
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The commitment of our team is rewarded by the satisfaction
“Our goal is perfectly realized,” said Gianluca Scalfi,
of seeing a beautiful racecourse decorated with colors and
“which was to give our top customers an unforgettable day
involved in the atmosphere of competition, passion, and
with an elite sport like horse riding. I really want to thank the
Moutai logos with the public following the race getting
of traditions and sport, combining the prestige of Moutai
joy.”
Kweichow Moutai Import Export company for the support
The MOUTAI CUP represents a great promotional
that has always been provided to us.”
opportunity for MOUTAI ITALIA.
The very exciting race with horses from Italy, France
The entire structure was branded with Moutai logos
and Sweden were successfully held, and the Swedish team
and MOUTAI ITALIA offered the important prize money for
Hagman-Eriksonn, like last year, has won with the beautiful
the race and awarded the winners with Gianluca Scalfi
horse Ayman. The race was broadcast live on a national
representing MOUTAI ITALIA with Moutai branded trophies
satellite channel and was very successful on web and paper
and a bottle of Moutai FF53.
news channels in Tuscany and in all over Italy.
A private room branded with Moutai logos and
Gianluca Scalfi represented Moutai Italy having
promotional products was reserved to the guests, 25 top
participated in the award ceremony and was interviewed
owners.
At the end of the event, he collected a plaque for
Italian customers, like bartenders, barmen and wine shop
before the competition was broadcast live on TV channels.
They were able to enjoy the race from a privileged
appreciation of sponsoring the race from the director of the
position and enjoying the typical Tuscan lunch paired with
racecourse Dott Emiliano Piccioni.
Moutai Prince and Moutai FF53. 42
See you next year for the 4th MOUTAI CUP!
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除
茅台杯馬賽是茅台義大利宣傳的絕佳時機，不僅茅台的標
了羅馬時期的戰車比賽，當 19 世紀米蘭和都靈的
誌處處可見，頒獎典禮上，更是由 Gianluca Scalfi 代表茅台
貴族開始全心全意地投入到培育和提高賽馬品種
義大利為獲獎選手頒發獎金與獎盃，以及一瓶飛天 53 度茅台
時，義大利的賽馬就得到了充分的發展。即便是在
酒。
兩次世界大戰時期，人們對賽馬高昂的熱情使得每年十一月的 馬術比賽仍然照常進行。
店主，調酒師等能在一個絕佳的位置欣賞比賽並享受經典的托
動。在選定的賽馬場中佔據首位，來自意大利及國外各地的最
斯卡納午餐搭配茅台王子酒和飛天茅台酒。
佳馬匹一起參賽正是這門運動的迷人之處。距離舉世聞名的比
「我們清楚的知道我們的目標是讓前來參加活動的頂級賓
薩斜塔僅幾公里的比薩聖羅索雷賽馬場就是其中之一。從托斯 卡納山到大海，為保護動植物生物多樣性，這裏設立了一個佔
客有個難忘的一天，」Gianluca Scalfi 說：「將傳統與運動，
此保護區內。在馬場最引人注目的中心區域，已經連續三年舉
我也非常感謝貴州茅台進出口有限公司對我們長久以來的支
將茅台的聲望與騎馬等精英運動相結合能讓二者互利共贏。
地 23,000 多公頃的自然保護區，而聖羅索雷賽馬場便坐落在
持。」
辦的茅台杯馬術比賽再次拉開帷幕。
來自義大利、法國和瑞典的隊伍參加了此次精彩絕倫的比
Otto Otto Baijiu Srl 自 2016 年起開始舉辦茅台杯馬術比
賽，這是一場專門為純種阿拉伯馬而設 2,000 米以上級別的比
賽。同去年一樣，瑞典隊 Hagman-Eriksonn 憑藉他們漂亮的
樣，來自瑞典的一支隊伍贏得了這場精彩的比賽。
時轉播，並在義大利各大電視台以及媒體獲得了不俗的反響。
賽馬 Ayman 贏得了這次比賽的冠軍。整場比賽還通過衛星實
賽。第三場比賽於 2018 年 11 月 18 日星期日舉行，同去年一
Gianluca Scalfi 代表茅台義大利出席了慶功宴，並接受
這次活動對茅台義大利來說是一個非常重要的時刻，不
僅對投資者有益，也能在全國範圍內提升此次活動的曝光量。
了電視台的採訪。在活動最後，賽馬場地主席 Dott Emiliano
驕傲能將茅台和賽馬聯繫起來，將卓越的品牌和高貴的動物搭
此次活動的贊助。
Piccioni 親自頒發獎牌予 Gianluca Scalfi 以感謝茅台義大利對
Otto Otto Baijiu Srl 總經理 Gianluca Scalfi 表示：「我們非常
第四屆茅台杯馬術比賽，明年見！
配在一起，並能用茅台元素妝點整個賽馬場，讓整場比賽充滿 激情與歡愉。」 44
賽場中還專門為特邀賓客設立了 VIP 房間，房間內裝飾有
茅台元素以及產品。25 位頂級義大利客戶，包括酒類專賣店
不僅在義大利，馬術在全世界都可稱得上是一門精英運
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Santiago The Pink 粉紅色的聖地亞哥 TEXT/ 文 Natalya Cheung
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hen talking about Chile’s capital Santiago, the
caused deaths of the prayers countlessly, the new cathedral
the San Diego of the United States, the spelling
Even the towers above the roof were built after ensuring the
locals are used to clarify by saying “we are not
gets rid of the common design of dome in Catholic churches.
is different!” in case of any confusion, but who will be
stability of the architecture.
confused?
The Chileans are not lost in the pink dusk of Andes. From
Chile is a South American country occupying a long,
civilians to artists, they are all good at thinking and love to
narrow strip of land between the Andes to the east and the
think. The street arts are flourishing in Santiago, expressing
Pacific Ocean to the west. With the border to the far south,
the spirit of freedom and the concerns of history and
it becomes the thinnest and tallest country. Its capital
present.
Santiago is at the feet of the narrowest mountain where
Two remarkable Chilean artists’ graffiti were set vertically
you could directly see the snow on the top of the mountain
in a metro exit.
Andes were colored pink as well as the whole city. I think it
showed his painting talent at the age of 14 and make
when you look up. Our flight landed in the dusk, and the
Inti Castro, on one side, was born in Valparaíso, who
is the most romantic moment of Santiago.
the mottled wall next to the port in the early 1980s his
The name Santiago is connected with war and revolution.
sketchpad. Valparaíso nowadays is no longer the most
The conquest of Chile was carried out by Pedro de Valdivia,
important port in Chile, but refilled with arts and leisure
who founded the city of Santiago on 1541. Valdivia found the
through every piece of wall painting. Nobody can tell
geometric benefit of the city and built the first Spanish fort
whether Inti brought this trend to the city or the city
in South America here. Since then, the European colonial
nourished this world-renowned son.
footstep had spread to the whole continent. Nowadays,
The name of Inti comes from the god of sun in ancient
the statue of Valdivia Equestrian is proudly standing on the
Inca myth, and it also means “sun” in the language of
colonizer on the 150th anniversary of Chilean independence
American culture before Columbus’ discovery either by
Plaza de Armas of Santiago. The statue was a gift sent by the
Quechua. He demonstrated his pride of native South
in 1960. The Chilean let the founder of Santiago guard the
his name or works. He liked to use red, yellow and orange
city for eternity.
to illustrate the Latino legend and Catholic elements. The
The name Plaza de Armas was originated from Spanish
artistic symbolism of live, death, believe, revolution, the
colonizer, which is usually seen in European countries. The
struggle of women and disappointment of the profit-driven
south of the square is the CBD of the city where hundreds of shops and banks are located. On the other hand, the
east is the residential area of rich people and government officials. Plaza Baquedano is located a few blocks easter,
and it separates the city to uptown for wealthy suburbs and downtown for the poor.
The north of Plaza de Armas is for the National Post
Office, Historical Museum and Santiago Town Hall which are the iconic buildings in Santiago colonial history. However, there are few Spanish architectures in the outer northern area because of its location in the earthquake zone. As
in 2017, the Chilean government recorded a total of 8084
times of earthquakes. Almost every ten years, there will be a
major earthquake of magnitude 7 or above. The most recent strong earthquake occurred in 2010, with a magnitude of 8.3!
The Cathedral Metropolitana de Santiago can be
regarded as the most unfortunate cathedral. It is the fifth renovation of the cathedral now. Since the dome had
collapsed several times in the previous earthquakes and 48
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modern values embodied strong personality.
In this wine terroir, the third large winery of Chile, Santa
On the other side of the wall is the painting of Mono
Rita is one of the best. Legend told that the Spanish female
Gonzalez whose works are colorful and childlike, sometimes
owner Paula hided 120 Chilean patriots in her wine cellar
even too simple, due to the influence of a specific historical
and smartly sent off the Spanish soldiers who came to
period. In 1970, Salvador Guillermo Allende Gossens, a
search. To commemorate the heroic and patriotic hostess,
Chilean democratic socialist politician and physician,
the winery produced a series of wine named 120.
became the president of Chile when he was 62. As president,
The Carménère grape is a wine grape variety originally
Allende adopted a policy of nationalization of industries and
planted in the Médoc region of Bordeaux, France. It is
collectivization.
almost impossible to find Carménère in France today, as a
Throughout this presidency racial tensions between the
Phylloxera plague in 1867 nearly destroyed all the vineyards
poor descendants of indigenous people, who supported
of Europe, afflicting the Carménère grapevines in particular
Allende's reforms started to paint on walls at night to
such that for many years the grape was presumed extinct.
secretly show their support with black lines and simple
Far from being extinct, in recent years the Carménère
colors. Mono’s paintings are originated from them to show
grape has been discovered to be in Chile. The growers
the respect of that time.
inadvertently preserved the grape variety during the last 150
Mono had been to Turpan, Xinjiang and created a wall for
years because it was mistaken for Merlot until the DNA test
the children of Project Hope. This old man sat on the ground
in 1991.
sketching at night to resist the 40° C hot weather in Xinjiang.
Nowadays, in the private museum of Santa Rita, you
Just like the supporters of Allende, he painted in the dark.
can learn about the history and culture of South America
and fertile valley terrain, where is the most famous and
varieties of grapes in the tasting room, trying to distinguish
Near Santiago, Maipo valley has the warm weather
through a variety of precious exhibits; learn to taste different
the oldest grape producing area with suitable altitude,
the nuances; enjoy traditional Chilean cuisine with different
temperature and humidity allowing all kinds of grape to
kinds of wine in the restaurant of the winery; run in the
varieties flourish here. Wine experts told us that only slightly
vineyards with friends in tipsy, watching the valley dyed pink
harsh environment can nourish the juicy fruit instead of the
by the setting sun. This is the way to luxuriate in Chile.
perfectly suitable environment. 50
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提
到智利首都聖地亞哥，當地人會給你這樣說一句：
第安人的一大分支蓋丘亞族語言中，這個詞亦有太陽之意，無
單詞！」唯恐不明真相的外國人把她和名字極相似
前的南美文化的自豪。他用紅、黃、橙三色，展現出拉美傳說
「我們和美國的聖地亞哥不一樣，我們的不是一個
論從他的名字還是作品當中，都表現出了他對哥倫布發現美洲
的城市混淆了。其實，哪會呢？
和天主教元素，其中的生、死、信仰、革命、女性抗爭的藝術
智利被安第斯山脈逼成窄窄一條，偏安於南美大陸最西
化象征、及對現代逐利價值觀的失望，具有強烈的藝術家個人
端，又向南延展至無法更進一尺，成為世界上最瘦高的國家。
色彩。
而她的首都聖地亞哥，亦是和這個世界上最長的山脈比肩，擡
和 Inti 作品隔空相望的是七旬老人 Mono Gonzalez，他
頭便可望見山巔積雪。飛機落地時，正值黃昏，安第斯山脈近
的畫作色彩鮮明，極具童趣，甚至顯得過於簡單，原來他的風
礦藏，目光所及的安第斯皆是粉紅，甚至還反射了這曖昧的光
薩爾瓦多 · 阿連德 · 戈森斯在 62 歲高齡最後一次參選總統終
得伸手可觸，不知是陽光染色還是「南美之脊」土壤中富含的
格深受智利一歷史時期的影響。在 1970 年，智利社會黨領袖
線，將整座聖地亞哥變成了粉紅色，這是聖地亞哥最浪漫的時 刻。
當選，上臺後，修改憲法，開啟社會改造運動。剝奪外國資本， 大力推行企業國有化改革，將外國控制的能源等關鍵部門全部
聖地亞哥的名字，同時又和戰爭與革命相連。1541 年，
收回國有，加強政府對經濟的管控。
西班牙殖民者瓦爾迪維亞率領 150 名士兵到來，看中這裏易
富人和中產階級視阿連德如洪水猛獸，而無產階級卻愛戴
守難攻的地理位置，在聖盧西亞山上修築了西班牙在南美洲的
他，這些農民、漁夫、工人，在暗夜中走上街頭，在墻壁上作
陸。如今，亞瓦爾迪維亞的銅像騎著高頭大馬，遠離了他在西
的風格就是用黑線描框，塗上單色，聽起來耳熟對嗎？沒錯，
第一座炮臺，歐洲殖民者的炮火，從這裏，蔓延到整個南美大
畫，以示支持，這些草根階級哪有接受過什麽藝術教育，他們
班牙的故鄉，雄赳赳佇立在聖地亞哥武器廣場上。1960 年，
這就是 Mono 爺爺的一貫風格，他用這樣的方式給那個年代
智利獨立 150 年之際，原先的殖民者，送給智利政府這個禮
最直接的敬意。
物，而智利人，讓他日復一日的，眼望著這個由他發現，並賜
Mono 爺爺曾經來到中國吐魯番，為希望工程的孩子們畫
名的城市——聖地亞哥。
了一整面墻，我看過新聞畫面，這位兩鬢斑白的老人坐在地
名，也是因為這裏是西班牙殖民者秣兵歷馬之地。廣場四個方
和當年阿連德的擁護者一樣，在黑暗中作畫。
武器廣場這個名字，在歐洲國家並不稀奇，它之所以得
上，拿著草圖思考，為了抵抗新疆白天 40 度高溫的炙烤，他
位，各司其職，南面是經濟商業區，從那邊的街道往外，數不
聖地亞哥附近的中央山谷，擁有溫暖的氣候和肥沃的谷地
清的街頭小店與銀行；廣場東部是有錢人和政府官員的住宅
地形，使之成為了智利最著名、歷史最悠久的葡萄產區，合適
個廣場將聖地亞哥分為上下城，富人住上城，窮人住下城，成
的葡萄酒專家對我們說：「千萬不能讓葡萄苗太過舒適，稍微
區，再往東幾個街區，是意大利廣場，不知有意還是無意，這
的海拔、溫度與濕度，讓各式葡萄品種在這裏蓬勃成長，這裏
為了這裏一個不必言說的潛規則。
惡劣的環境能讓它們為了生存而努力，這樣方能有飽滿多汁的
廣場北側有國家郵政局、歷史博物館和聖地亞哥市政府，
果實。」
這些都是聖地亞哥殖民時期代表性建築物。如果單從這裏看
在這個葡萄酒產區，擁有無數酒莊，其中智利第三大酒莊
來，聖地亞哥似乎保持了濃重的殖民風格。其實，廣場以外幾
Santa Rita 享有盛名。相傳在智利獨立戰爭期間，這裏的西班
截至 2017 年，智利政府記錄在案的地震共有 8084 次，每十
來搜羅的西班牙士兵盤問，不卑不吭，從而讓愛國戰士們逃過
個街區，幾乎尋不見西班牙風格建築，皆因這裏處於地震帶。
牙裔女主人寶拉將 120 名智利愛國者藏入酒窖，機智面對前
年就會有場 7 級以上大地震，最近一次強震，發生在 2010 年，
追捕，為了紀念這位英勇愛國的女主人，酒莊出品了 120 系
震級高達 8.3 ！
列葡萄酒。
廣場上的聖地亞哥主教堂，當屬命運最多舛的大教堂。現
在智利，一定要嘗試的是獨特的葡萄品種佳美娜，這個品
在看到的這座，已是「第五代」，由於拱頂在前幾次地震中都
種出生於法國波爾多，十九世紀中期由於葡萄根瘤蚜蟲病害在
頂，就連那幾座高塔，也是在教堂主體經受了幾十年大小地震
在這個新家園頑強地活了下來。這個品種在智利曾一度被認為
倒塌，壓死信眾無數，因此，新建築看不到天主教堂常見的拱
歐洲絕跡。不知何時，它被釀酒師遠渡重洋，無意中帶到智利，
考驗，確認足夠堅挺，方才添加上去。
是美樂，直到 1991 年進行了 DNA 測驗，才最終證明這是早
智利人，並沒有迷失在安第斯山脈的粉紅黃昏中，從平民
到藝術家，都是愛思考、善思考的。聖地亞哥的街頭藝術蓬勃，
如今，在 Santa Rita 的私人博物館中，你可以通過各種
除卻表達自由精神，更有對歷史的回望和對現狀的隱憂。
為最重要貿易港口的黃金時代，變得藝術而閑適，那幾乎每面
珍貴的展品了解整個南美的歷史與文化；在品酒室中學習品嘗
成 90 度夾角。這邊廂是 Inti Castro，這位出生於瓦爾帕萊索
起了這個風潮，亦是帶著海鹽氣息的藝術土壤滋養了這個譽滿
著不同的酒，欣賞智利傳統美食；和好友在恍惚微醺狀態下，
智利兩位藝術大師的巨型塗鴉圖畫，在一個地鐵站出口形
的藝術家，14 歲便展露了驚人的繪畫才華，上世紀 80 年代初 港口旁斑駁的墻，是他的畫布。如今的瓦爾帕萊索，揮別了作 52
已在歐洲絕跡的佳美娜！
不同品種的葡萄，試圖分辨出細微差別；在酒莊的餐廳中，配
墻都不落空的壁畫，成為了那裏全新的名片，不知道是 Inti 帶
在葡萄園中奔跑，看著被夕陽染成粉紅的山谷——這才是智利
全球的兒子。
的正確打開方式呀！
Inti 的名字，來自於印加神話中的太陽神之名，在南美印 53
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A Brief History of Bob Dylan's "Bootleg" 諾貝爾文學獎得主鮑勃 迪倫的「私釀」簡史
TEXT/ 文 LEI XUAN
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n the latest episode of American talk show "The
quietly registered the trademark of "Bootleg Whisky", so he
the music boundary and added new artistic characteristics
empty theatre and quietly enjoyed the private
whisky brand.
eagerly they wanted to find out his unpublished work, and
Tonight Show", the host Jimmy Fallon sat in an
came up with the idea of working with Dylan to develop a
performances brought by Big Apple Circus.
to rock music, the more people worshipped him, the more
Bootleg is a pun. It refers to the private liquor illegally
Fallon seemed to feel something missing. As he looked
the more eagerly they wanted to hear every note he left.
sold during the prohibition period in the United States in
around, Bob Dylan (a winner of the Nobel Prize in Literature) walked in with a bottle of "Heaven's Door" whisky and two
After years of deliberation, the record company finally
the 1920s; in rock music, it also refers to singers' recordings
published the album officially named "The Basement Tapes"
concerts by fans without permission.
with the official release. By 1975, Dylan's more recordings
leaked from the studio or the secret recordings of live
glasses. Dylan expressionlessly poured the liquor for Fallon, who seemed very satisfied. They toasted with each other
in 1975, which included 24 songs. But fans were not satisfied
The first recognized bootleg record in rock history
and sat down to enjoy the circus performance together.
came from Dylan. In 1967, Dylan lived in seclusion
standing up and applauding, only to find that Dylan was no
songs with the band. Some of them were
At the end of the performance, Fallon couldn't help
from different periods had been found by unknown sources.
His concerts were also privately recorded by fans and traded
for a while and recorded more than 100
longer around. "Bob?" Fallon looked around but couldn't find the rock star. "Where's Bob?" he asked.
in underground record stores.
People's curiosity about Dylan started a new chapter in
somehow circulated. In 1969, these highly
the history of rock music. In fact, not just Dylan, many other
a bootleg record called "Great White
the artists had no bootleg records, they must be too boring,
acclaimed songs were assembled into
"There's nobody there," said the circus actress, "There
was never anybody there."
rock artists also had a large number of bootleg records——If
Wonder". This record not only satisfied
"What's in that whiskey?" Fallon asked with puzzle.
or fans were not curious enough about them.
people's curiosity about Dylan who
Then he continued to applaud the circus. Beside him was
an open bottle of "Heaven's Door" whisky and a glass with
Although bootleg records at that time tended to have
disappeared for a while, but also
a poor sound quality, they were still very popular. Dylan's
cooler he was, the more distinctive he
records, but eventually found it uncontrollable, because
enhanced his personal charm. The
warmth.
This program clip is not only a delicate soft
record company once tried to stop the spread of bootleg
was, and the more he broke through
advertisement, but also a proper demonstration of Dylan's
the identity of the pirate was unknown, and sometimes the copyright of the song was not very clear.
cool, maverick style, and memorable artistic characteristics.
Therefore, in 1991, Dylan himself launched the official
The "Heaven's Door" whisky is the co-branded liquor
Bootleg Series, assembling the recordings that had never
launched this year by Dylan and the spirits entrepreneur
been officially published. In 2014, the Bootleg Series Vol.
Marc Bushala. The name comes from Dylan's masterpiece
11 was a collection of all 139 works he recorded during the
"Knockin' On Heaven's Door".
1967 "Basement Tapes" period, including different versions
What contributed to this cooperation was actually
of a number of songs. Subsequently, the Bootleg Series Vol.
another story about Dylan and liquor. According to "the New
12: The Cutting Edge 1965-1966 (Collector's Version) was
York Times", in 2015, Marc Bushala noticed that Dylan had
published in 2015, using 18 CDs for Dylan's "every single
note" recorded in his peak period of 1965 to 1966. Among
them, the famous song "Like a Rolling Stone" alone had 16
studio versions and 4 instrumental track-splitting recordings, revealing the creation track of this classic in every detail. In November this year, the Bootleg Series published
its Vol. 14. This volume was a collection of all the works
recorded by Dylan at the end of 1974 when he created the
highly acclaimed album "Blood on the Tracks". In the song
"Up to Me", which was eventually removed from the album at that time, Dylan sang, "If I'd lived my life by what others were thinking, the heart inside me would've died."
These works prove that Dylan not only controls his
artistic orientation, but also masters his time as he likes——
He is free to come and go. At any time he can dig out several forgotten songs from his treasure house of creation to ignite the enthusiasm of Dylanologists and satisfy his fans——no matter which period of his life these works came form. 56
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在
人演出。
最 近 的 一 期 美 國 脫 口 秀 節 目「 今 夜 秀 」（The
他們的好奇心還不夠大。
的劇院中，安靜地欣賞 Big Apple Circus 帶來的私
受歡迎。迪倫的唱片公司曾經試圖阻止過私制唱片的傳播，但
盡管那時的私制唱片往往音質粗糙，但這無法阻止它們廣
Tonight Show）中，主持人吉米法倫坐在空無一人
最終發現他們也無能為力，因為盜錄者的身份不明，有時歌曲 的版權歸屬也不是很清晰。
法倫似乎覺得缺了點什麽。在他左顧右盼的時候，鮑勃迪
到了 1991 年，迪倫索性開啟了官方私制系列（Bootleg
倫走了進來，手裏拿著一瓶「天堂之門」威士忌和兩個酒杯。 面無表情的迪倫給一臉滿足的法倫斟酒，兩人碰杯，一起坐下
Series），把那些從未正式發表過的錄音作品集結起來發行。
演出結束，法倫情不自禁地起立鼓掌，這才發現迪倫已經
時期錄制的全部 139 首作品，其中包括一些歌曲的不同版本。
2014 年，這一系列的第 11 輯是他在 1967 年「地下室錄音」
欣賞馬戲團的演出。
隨後 2015 年出版的第 12 輯私制系列，收藏版（Collector's
不在身邊。「鮑勃？」法倫環顧四周也找不到這位搖滾巨星的
edition）用 18 張 CD 唱片收錄了迪倫在創作巔峰期 1965 年
身影。「鮑勃去哪了？」他問。
至 1966 年錄下的「每一個音符」（every single note）。其
「沒有人在那兒，」馬戲團的女演員說，「一直就沒有人
中僅僅是那首著名的歌曲《像一塊滾石》，就有 16 個錄音室
在那兒。」
版本外加 4 首樂器分軌錄音，巨細靡遺地展現了這首經典之作
法倫不解地說：「威士忌裏到底有些什麽啊？」然後他繼
的創作軌跡。
續為馬戲團的演出鼓掌。在他身邊是開了瓶的「天堂之門」威
而今年 11 月，私制系列已經出版到了第 14 輯。這一次
士忌和尚有余溫的酒杯。
這個節目片段不僅是個精巧的軟廣告，也恰如其分地展現
收錄的是迪倫在 1974 年底創作備受好評的專輯《音軌上的血
「天堂之門」威士忌是迪倫在今年聯合波本（Bourbon）
被從專輯中剔除出去的落選曲目《取決於我》（Up to Me）中，
跡》（Blood on the Tracks）時錄下的所有作品。在一首最終
了迪倫的酷、他的特立獨行，和他讓人回味無窮的藝術特質。
迪倫唱到「如果我活著是為了在乎別人的想法，我的內心早就
酒商 Marc Bushala 推出的聯名酒。名字正是來自於迪倫的名
死掉了。」
作《敲響天堂之門》。
這些作品證明了迪倫不僅掌控著自己的藝術取向，還可
促成這段合作的，其實是迪倫和酒的另一段淵源。據紐約
時報報道，2015 年時，Marc Bushala 註意到了迪倫已經悄悄
以隨心所欲地掌握時間——他來去自由，可以隨時從創作寶
出和迪倫合作開發一個威士忌品牌的想法。
（Dylanologists）的熱情，讓他的歌迷們心滿意足——不論
庫中翻出幾首已經被外界遺忘的曲目，點燃那些迪倫學家們
註冊了「私釀（Bootleg）威士忌」的註冊商標，於是他萌生
這些作品來自於他生命中的哪個時期。
Bootleg 一語雙關，即指在美國 1920 年代禁酒令時期非
法販賣的私釀酒，也在搖滾樂中指從錄音室中泄漏出去的歌手 錄音、或者歌迷們未經許可偷錄的演唱會實況。
搖滾史上第一張公認的私制唱片就來自於迪倫。迪倫在
1967 年短暫隱居了一段時間，和樂隊錄制了 100 多首歌曲，
其中部分歌曲不知怎麽被流傳了出去。1969 年，這些備受 好評的歌曲被集結為一張叫《偉大白色奇跡》（Great White
Wonder）的私制（Bootleg）唱片。《偉大白色奇跡》的存在， 不僅滿足了外界對短暫消失了一段時期的迪倫的好奇心，也增 添了他的個人魅力：他越是酷、越是特立獨行，越是突破音樂 疆界為搖滾樂增加新的藝術特質，人們就越膜拜他、越迫切地 想去尋找他每一首尚未發表的作品，越渴望聽到他留下的每一 個音符。
經過數年的醞釀之後，唱片公司直到 1975 年才出版了這
套被正式命名為《地下室錄音》（The Basement Tapes）的
專輯，收錄了 24 首歌。但歌迷們已經不滿足於官方發布。到
了 1975 年，迪倫更多不同時期的錄音作品被不知道什麽人從 什麽渠道找了出來。他的演唱會也被歌迷私自錄音，在地下唱 片行交易。
人們對迪倫的好奇心開啟了一段搖滾樂史中的新篇章。
事實上，不止迪倫，很多搖滾樂藝人都有大量的私制唱片存
在——如果誰沒有，那肯定是這些藝人太過無趣，或者歌迷對 58
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The Old Blind Cat A Jazz Bar Frequented by the Young Haruki Murakami 村上春樹年輕時常去的爵士酒吧 TEXT/ 文 椎名林祺
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東
umerous bars with stories lurk in Shinjuku, Tokyo. Today, I will walk into "The Old Blind Cat", a jazz bar that has been open for 53 years.
京新宿，隱隱藏著無數家有故事的酒吧。今天我走
進的，是一家已經營業 53 年的爵士酒吧——「瞎 眼老貓（The Old Blind Cat）」。
到達之前，你必須走下長長的樓梯，像藏在地下室的時空
Before arriving, you have to walk down long stairs, like a
time tunnel in the basement. Opening the door, I seem to be
隧道里。推開門，彷彿上了一架被時間遺忘的列車。它的裝修
not outdated at all. The color of decoration is cold but not
這裡聚集了 old school 的靈魂。不論是年輕人，還是已經年
有些老舊，卻一點不過時。冷色調的裝潢，卻一點都不冷漠。
on a train forgotten by time. Its decoration is a bit old, but
老的熟客，每晚 8 點過後，這裡便是這些愛好爵士樂的酒鬼庇
indifferent. Here gathers the soul of the old school. Whether
護所。
young people or old acquaintances, after 8 p.m. every night, these jazz-loving drunkards gather in this shelter.
The name "The Blind Old Cat" at first glance is very
interesting, but also a bit sad. "Cat" in black slang refers
to a skilled musician. This name will remind customers of
「瞎眼老貓」，這個名字乍看之下十分有趣，又有些悲涼。
the most outstanding Jazz masters in the history of jazz and indicates that this bar has a deep understanding of
「Cat」在黑人俚語里，指技藝精湛的樂手。聯想到爵士音樂
his university period. Because of his love for jazz, Haruki
有比較深的瞭解。這家店曾是村上春樹大學時經常來泡的酒
史上登峰造極的爵士樂大師，不難推斷這家酒吧對爵士樂一定
jazz. This bar was frequented by Haruki Murakami during
吧。因為對爵士樂的熱愛，村上春樹畢業後也開了一家酒吧，
Murakami opened a bar named "Peter-Cat Jazz" as well after
取名 Peter-Cat Jazz。他曾就開酒吧請教「瞎眼老貓」的老闆，
graduation. He once consulted the owner and founder of
也就是這家店的創始人，今年已經 79 歲的菊地博先生（Hiroshi
"The Old Blind Cat", Mr. Hiroshi Kikuchi, about how to open
Kikuchi）。現在，他每周只會有一天在店裡，目前，他的兒
a bar. Now 79 years old, Hiroshi Kikuchi stays in the bar only
子——今年 49 歲的町田利企（Toshiki Machida）接手了這家
one day a week. His 49-year-old son, Toshiki Machida, has
店。
taken over the bar. 62
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in the world, which is quietly hidden in Shinjuku, Tokyo.
I asked the boss to recommend a cocktail he liked. He
It gives people the impression that it will always be there,
pointed to the "Salty Dog" on the menu and said that he
Usually, in the small bar like this in Shinjuku, no waiters
because it is trans-era and never outdated.
would make me a cup. As I expected, this cocktail was very
are available and the boss alone takes care of the bar. You
good.
can talk to the boss when he is not busy. Sometimes the
我讓老闆給我推薦一款他喜歡的雞尾酒。他指了菜單上的
Later, I went to drink a few more times and his son
boss talks to you just for a while. If there aren't many guests, the boss will be quite enthusiastic to talk. I once asked the
boss about Haruki Murakami. Surprisingly, he talked about
在新宿這樣的小酒館喝酒，沒有服務生，通常都是老闆一
that with great enthusiasm. According to the boss, besides
Haruki Murakami, the young Takeshi Kitano and many jazz
個人在吧台忙前忙後。你可以趁老闆不忙的時候與他交談。偶
this bar.
氛也會相當熱絡。我曾就村上春樹的事問過老闆，沒想到他興
爾老闆與你聊兩句。如果客人不多，聊開了，老闆聊起天來氣
musicians, artists and musicians from Tokyo also frequented
致勃勃地跟我提起，除了村上春樹，北野武年輕時候也常來這
My first visit was on Saturday. It happened to be Grandpa
家店。還有許多東京的爵士樂手，藝術家，音樂家也常來。
Hiroshi running the bar that day. He was a kind and lovely
我第一次去是週六，剛好是創始老闆 Hiroshi 老爺爺看
old man who liked to listen to South American music. After
Toshiki was in the bar. This 49-year-old second-generation
Salty Dog，說要給我做一杯。果然這杯雞尾酒很不錯。
1950s and 1960s in Tokyo, but many of them were closed
歲的二代老闆告訴我，東京有很多上世紀五六十年代開張的爵
father not only played classic old jazz, but also kept pace
因為他的父親不會只放經典老爵士，會與時俱進地放一些新爵 了，就自己接手了。
wanted to close the bar last year. He felt that it was a pity, so
而我作為一個沒有經歷過上世紀新宿黃金時代的華人，絲
he took over the bar.
毫不覺得「瞎眼老貓」過時，它的裝修和氛圍，到今天仍不過
As a Chinese who has not experienced the golden age of
Shinjuku in the last century, I don't feel that "The Old Blind
disappoint me either.
Fashion 也沒有令我失望。
still not outdated today. I am glad that there is such a bar
64
士樂。其實他的父親在去年曾想關閉這家酒吧，他覺得太可惜
with the times to play some new jazz. In fact, his father once
店。他是個慈祥可愛的老頭，喜歡聽南美音樂。坐下後首先
點了一杯 Old Fashion，老闆調酒非常乾脆利索，這杯酒 Old
士酒吧，但後面很多都關門了。「瞎眼老貓」能開到現在，是
later. "The Old Blind Cat" could survive till now because his
sitting down, I ordered an "Old Fashion" first. The boss was
very skillful in mixing the liquor and the "Old Fashion" didn't
後來我又去喝了幾次，是他的兒子 Toshiki 在店。這位 49
owner told me that there were many jazz bars opened in the
時。我很慶幸世界上還有這麼一家酒吧，靜靜地藏在聲色犬馬 的東京新宿。它給人的印象，就像它會永遠在那裡，因為它是
Cat" is outdated at all. Its decoration and atmosphere are
跨時代的，永不過時。 65
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Liquor Cup in Turbulences 風波裡的酒杯
Nectar of Northern Song Dynasty and Su Shi's Eternal Poetries 從北宋的瓊漿玉液到蘇軾的千古佳句 TEXT/ 文 Samuel
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s time goes by, through the ages, liquor serves
always ended with pleasure.
literary elites were fond of liquor. In the profound
friends with liquor. "On the Mid-Autumn Festival of the
as the catalyst for awakening souls. Most ancient
Su Shi not only loved liquor, but also liked to entertain
Chinese culture, many eternal poetries sometimes were
Bingchen year, having been drinking happily over night,
inseparable from the catalysis of fine liquor.
I'm heavily drunk". Under the catalysis of liquor, "Shuidiao
In the middle period of the Northern Song Dynasty
Getou (Remembering Su Zhe on the Mid-Autumn Festival)"
900 years ago, the literary leader Su Shi (Su Dongpo) also
was created; when Su Shi toured the Red Cliffs, the classic
left many interesting anecdotes related to liquor to later
and heroic "Nian Nu Jiao: Chibi Huai Gu (Remembering
generations. His remarkable achievements in literature and
Chibi, to the tune of Nian Nu Jiao)" was created from the
people's praises for him are self-evident and needn't be
fascinating drunkenness. "After consuming all dishes and
talked about. Instead, his deep understanding of the liquor
fruits, and leaving the dishes and cups on the table in
culture is more worthy of being told to the world.
disorder, we slept on the boat, without noticing the coming
Drinking moderately is a decent style. Su Shi did not hide
of dawn." This was not only the pleasure of being drunk, but
his love for liquor, but he always showed a limited capacity
also the carefree and detached love for landscape.
for liquor. I don't know whether it was his true temperament
In addition to friends, relatives were also an important
or deliberate humility. As the lyrics say, "half awake and half
companion for Su Shi's drinking. Drinking with Su Zhe
Theory", "Although I don't drink much, yet I feel happy to
Mountains)". Su Shi's second wife Wang Runzhi often drank
drunk" is often the best state. Su Shi said in his "Drinking
was recorded in "Shanjia Qinggong (Simple Foods at
drink a little every day." Legend has it that Su Shi improved
together with him, which was once mentioned in a family
his capacity for liquor with each passing day. He once
letter of Su Shi. "Houjing Lu (Record of Delicacies)" also
praised himself in an article, "I was easily drunk when I was
mentioned that Huangzhou's Zhang Conghui entertained
young, but now I can drink three cups of liquor." However,
Su Shi and his wife with liquor.
according to Huang Tingjian, such words of Su Shi were just
In addition to drinking, Su Shi was also ingenious in
drunken words and unreliable. He once drank together with
liquor-making. It is believed that Su Shi's recipe for making
liquor. Huang Tingjian may be right, but when friends gather
present, the recipe might be found only from the historical
Su Shi but Su Shi got drunk before completing a large cup of
liquor has long been lost with the passing of time. At
to drink, the amount they drink often exceeds their own
fragments. In "Dongpo Zhilin", he detailed the process
estimates. This doesn't matter much. What's important is to
of making honey liquor, which would be helpful for later
share the pleasure of drinking with others.
generations to brew liquor. In his later years, when Su Shi
Such literary elite like Su Shi inevitably had to attend
was demoted to Huizhou, he learned to make a kind of
various banquets and other social occasions. Compared
cinnamon liquor, which could resist the miasma of the
with drinking alone, drinking with friends would be much
South.
happier. Just as the saying goes, "It is more joyful to share
After material selection, refined brewing, cooking and
the joy than to keep it to oneself". The records of drinking
packaging, the liquor was integrated with Su Shi's thought
"The Detachment Platform" described that the platform
Shi was the "ZhenYi (True One)" liquor that was integrated
happily with friends can be easily found in Su Shi's poems.
and interpretation. The most fascinating liquor made by Su
is "high but stable, cool in summer and warm in winter. In
with Taoist thought. He praised that the "ZhenYi" liquor
rainy days, snowy days, or moonlit nights, I often stay there
"brought a flush to the face and an energy as refreshing as
with my friends". As long as we share the same interests,
spring breeze". He also described in an article how a Taoist
"we will feel satisfied with ordinary liquor, fruits, vegetables,
priest taught him the method of making the "ZhenYi" liquor.
and plants". According to "Chunzhu Jiwen (Hearsay from
Besides, he authored the "Dongpo Jiujing" as well, leaving a reference of making liquor for later generations.
refined liquor not only permeated the mouth with aroma,
mind, achieve himself in another realm, as well as transcend
beef to accompany liquor. After getting drunk, they returned
spirituality and consciousness. As a great literary master,
a rough official career and encountered various twists and
"Looking back, I see the dreary beaten track. Let me go back,
was released after drinking, he either wrote or traveled, and
a new height. Throughout the ups and downs of life, the
the Spring Islet)", Su Shi and his friend once drank together. They killed an ox with foot disease and used the roasted
The understanding of liquor is inseparable from
to the town late at night". When the heroism in Su Shi's heart
Su Shi had brought the interpretation of liquor culture to
68
but also left a long-lasting aftertaste in the heart. Su Shi had
time and distance in turbulences. As his eternal poetry goes,
turns. In addition to Su Shi's open-minded attitude, liquor
no matter whether it's rainy or sunny day."
was a more important carrier that helped him to stabilize his 69
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轉星移，歲月如梭，古往今來，酒是喚醒靈魂的催
葉矣」。然則黃庭堅則在背後揭短，東坡稱自己能喝三蕉葉，
當熱衷。想當年中秋時節，月朗中天，蘇軾在「丙辰中秋，歡
中華文化裡，千古佳句不時也少不了陳年佳釀的助
杯就醉了。殊不知友人聚會，推杯換盞飲劉伶，飲入之量往往
紙上；又想當年船中游赤壁，便留下千古絕唱，豪邁的《念奴
不過是醉話，不能相信，曾經與他一起喝酒，見他喝不了一大
化劑。古代文豪大多對酒情有獨鍾，在博大精深的
超過自己預估，但重點是在與人分享飲酒的快樂。
觥籌交錯，華屋綺筵，一代文豪往往免不了大大小小的社
如果將時光倒回 900 年的北宋中期，文壇領袖蘇東坡亦
蜜酒的製作過程，對後人釀酒，必有裨益。晚年蘇軾被貶到惠
州，更是學習製作了一種桂酒，飲之可以抵禦南方的瘴癘之氣。
飲達旦，大醉」，《水調歌頭 . 明月》在酒精的醞釀下，躍然
經過選材、精釀、蒸煮、分裝，酒在思想的碰撞，注入了
嬌 · 赤壁懷古》在醉意中洋洋灑灑躍然紙上，遂成經典。「肴
屬蘇軾的解讀。蘇軾釀酒最為令人津津樂道的，莫過於融入道
單是酩酊大醉後的快意江湖，還是寄情山水的灑脫超然。
入髓散無聲」稱讚真一酒，還在《記授真一酒法》中記敘稱，
家思想的「真一」名酒。他不但在以「曉日著顏紅有暈，春風
核既盡，杯盤狼藉，相與枕藉乎舟中，不知東方之既白」，不
不乏與酒相關的趣聞軼事，讓後人細細品味。提起蘇軾，文字
交。與朋友飲酒，相比獨酌，高興程度大大不同，正如「獨樂
加，但對比其作品，這些錦上添花的讚賞往往顯得蒼白。倒是
不難發現。《超然台記》寫道：超然台「高而安，深而明，夏
轍飲酒，則在《山家清供》得到記錄：「東坡一夕與子由飲，
只要大家志趣相投，「鋪糟啜醨，皆可以醉，果蔬草木，皆可
軾的第二任妻子王閏之也與蘇軾伴飲，在蘇軾曾在書信中提及
酒的文化詮釋到了一個新的高度。人生跌宕起伏無常，而精釀
惠請蘇軾夫妻飲酒的記載。
仕途不順，際遇曲折，除了蘇軾豁達的心態，更重要有酒這一
樂不如眾樂樂」。與朋友歡暢飲酒的記錄，在蘇軾的詩詞中也
上的斐然成就不需冗談。世人對這位唐宋八家之一往往讚譽有
涼而冬溫。雨雪之朝，風月之夕，餘未嘗不在，客未嘗不從」，
他對酒文化的理解之深，更值得向世人娓娓道來。
飲酒有度方為大家風範，蘇軾毫不掩飾對酒的熱愛，但從
以飽」。《春渚紀聞》有雲：「無以侑酒，西鄰耕牛適病足，
來都是表現出酒量有限，不知是真性情的流露，還是有意的自
乃以為炙。飲既醉，遂從東坡之東直出，至春草亭而歸，時已
謙。正如歌詞所唱，「留一半清醒留一半醉」，往往是最好的
三鼓矣」。蘇軾心中的滿腔豪邁，在酒後得以抒發，並付諸行
狀態。蘇軾在《飲酒說》中說：「予雖飲酒不多，然而日欲把
動，要麼寫作，要麼出行，盡興而歸。
盞為樂」。傳說蘇軾喝酒時日較多，酒量也不斷提升，自己也
蘇軾對酒的熱愛不僅限於自己，而對於請人喝酒，也是相
曾經寫文章稱讚自己說：「吾少年望見酒盞而醉，今亦能三蕉 70
釀酒的道家法士「袖出一書授予，乃真一法及修養九事」。另
除了朋友，親人也是陪伴蘇軾飲酒的一大重要陪伴。與蘇
外還著有《東坡酒經》，為後人釀酒帶來借鑒。
對酒的理解，離不開靈性和覺悟，作為文學大家，蘇軾將
酣甚，捶蘿菔爛煮，不用他料，只研白米為糝，食之。」 蘇
的日經月華，不僅令人唇齒留香，而且點滴在心頭。蘇軾一生
「酌酒與婦飲」，從而得到體現。《侯鯖錄》中也有黃州張從
載體，幫助他在入世的風波中，穩住心神，成就了另一個境界
除了對飲酒上心，蘇軾對釀酒也可謂匠心獨運。相信蘇軾
中的自己，超越了時間和距離。就好比他的傳世佳句所言，「回
釀酒的秘方，早已隨著歲月失傳，當下僅僅能夠從歷史的隻言
首向來蕭瑟處，歸去，也無風雨也無晴」。
片語中，獨處釀酒的秘訣。《東坡志林》中，他詳細地記下了 71
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MOUTAI Magazine
F
ine liquor is inseparable from the persistence of raw materials; accurate clocks and watches are inseparable from the persistence of seconds;
beautiful music is inseparable from the deliberation of each note. The finished product seems to be a
complex but in fact is formed by the simplest details. Watch is a very special field and a blend of ice
and fire. The appearance of ingenious design is
as dizzying as the variations of fire. But beneath this appearance is a stable movement as solid
as an iceberg. There is no other ornament that
can blend sense with sensibility so perfectly. But today, clocks and watches are no longer beyond reach. Although they are still a symbol of luxury,
yet almost everyone can have them. Now everyone
has a mobile phone to report time. Do we still need a watch? What does a watch exist for?
The most brilliant thing of the Swiss industry is to
sell a concept that dilutes the timing function of watches but strengthens their cultural value. This makes watches still popular in the era of artificial intelligence, where
any brand that doesn't advance with the times would be easily submerged in this torrent. When Apple Watch was
launched, some people believed that smart watches would
nowadays. Under the impact of smart watches, they seem
the development routes of the two are totally different.
traditional watches together.
to have "the same enemy" and should defend the field of
replace traditional watches. But I don't think so because
Human beings can change everything in the world except
Traditional watches, especially mechanical watches, take shape step by step from brand, design, technology and
the passage of time. Watch is the carrier that faithfully
process is no longer a tool, but a work of art as well as a
only in its function. For me, the design of watch should be
records all this. However, the significance of watch lies not
materials, which is an exciting process. The watch from this
Great Wisdom Small Space
小空間裡的大文章 TEXT/ 文 Joseph Tsui 72
in
succinct but not simple. It needs to meet the requirement
personal name card.
of accuracy as well as the aesthetic needs of the public.
How precise is demanded by human for time? From
Of course, I personally prefer the retro design. Every time I
hourglass and sundial to today's radio watch and GPS
wander in an antique watch shop and look at the antique
watch, we seem to hate errors deeply and constantly
watches lying quietly, I can feel the passing glory that cannot
develop new technology to eliminate them. Although the
be reproduced. Antique watch is a category independent of
traditional watchmaking industry has a "natural limitation"
modern watches. It is true that I am not the only one who
of eliminating errors, yet a watch can give us more pleasure
has this feeling. Otherwise, why in recent years, so many
beyond precision. From the design and structure of the
brands in the watch industry have been republishing their
movement, to the design of the dial and case, and to the
classic styles of the past, and why these styles seem to be
selection of the strap, every step has to strive for perfection.
very popular in the market?
A watch seems to have limited space, but in fact there is
At around World War I, people found that the pocket
ample room for leverage. Which movement is better, the
watch could be tied to the wrist through a strap. More than
quartz or mechanical? This problem is no longer important 73
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MOUTAI Magazine
100 years passed and the form of wrist watch remained
challenging Switzerland's leading status. Although both
history of wrist watch is an epitome of human history in the
and even luxury goods, both of them rely on the basis
unchanged. From a small perspective, the development
Britain and France have successful commercial brands,
past 100 years. When it comes to watches today, Switzerland
provided by Switzerland and are less original. Some brands
is the dominant country. What about other countries?
in Germany and Japan are the most appreciated by me.
Can't they produce watches? History showed that clocks
Both of them are defeated countries, and their national
and watches originated from Europe, so why could these
character also contains the characteristics of rigorousness.
traditional powers of Europe bear to watch Switzerland
In fact, many watchmakers in Switzerland are Germanic.
take the lead? Geopolitical stability, artisan influx, and
Before World War II, the German clock and watch industry
government encouragement were all the reasons. For 500
developed well. After the defeat of the war, their industry
years, the disputes among European powers had been so
was under various heavy blows but now rises again. Next we
dazzling for even historians. Every dispute was a destruction
turn to Japan. Although their products are relative cheap,
for the private industry. Italy, France, Britain and Germany
but the stability and durability are also very competitive, let
were all important production and R&D bases, but for
alone the impact of quartz watches on Switzerland in the
political, war, economic and other reasons, their watch
past.
undertakings declined. Their most brilliant products seem
This is just some of my gossip. If people really want to
to remain only in museums and antique shops. Fortunately,
talk about it, it would be a long story. Every time I look at
of watches is flourishing, and more and more countries are
can't help going immediately for a feast of watches.
as we enter the second half of the 20th century, the world
74
and buy a watch, I always feel happy. After writing this, I
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MOUTAI Magazine
展到如今的電波錶、GPS 錶，我們似乎對誤差是「恨之入骨」，
年經歷的一個濃縮。今天提起腕錶，瑞士一家獨大，其他國家
使其在誤差的消滅道路上，有了大限。在這精準度之外，一枚
的傳統強國們，為何眼睜睜地看著瑞士奪魁？地緣政治的穩定
不斷地研發新技術來消滅它。但傳統製錶業的「天然局限」，
美酒佳釀，離不開對原材料的執著；精確鐘錶，離不開
對時分秒的執拗；繞梁美曲，離不開對每個音符的推敲。成品
呢？產不出腕錶嗎？翻開歷史，鐘錶時計源於歐洲，那麼歐洲
腕錶能給予我們更大的樂趣。從機芯的設計構造開始，到面盤
看起來是複雜的多元體，細拆開來，確是對最簡單的細節的誠
性，工匠人才的流入，政府的鼓勵，這都是原因。500 年以來，
錶殼的設計，再到錶帶的選取，這一步步都得精益求精。其實
意。腕錶是一個很特別的領域，是一種冰與火的交融。巧思設
歐洲列強之間的紛爭，多到連歷史學家都眼花繚亂，每一次的
一枚腕錶，看似空間有限，但可發揮的地方可非常多。石英機
計的外觀，如同火焰的幻化，讓人目不暇接。而在這外表之
紛爭，都是對民間產業的破壞。義大利、法國、英國、德國，
芯好還是機械機芯好？這個問題現如今已不再重要了，在智能
下，卻隱藏著一顆堅實穩定的機芯，如同冰山一樣，絕對的冷
都是一個個重要的生產研發基地，可政治、戰爭、經濟等原因，
腕錶的衝擊下，它們兩者似乎應該「同仇敵愾」，捍衛好傳統
峻。人類從來沒有一件飾物，能把感情與理性如此完美地融合
都讓他們的腕錶事業沒落了。代表她們最輝煌的產品，彷彿都
腕錶的領域。
在一起。不過時至今日，鐘錶已不再高高掛起，雖仍是奢侈的
陳列在博物館和古董店裡面。所幸的是，進入 20 世紀後半葉，
人類能改變世間萬物，恐怕唯一不能撼動的，便是時光
象徵，但尋常百姓幾乎人人皆可擁有。人人都有手機報時，何
的流逝。而忠實記錄著這一切的載體，腕錶的意義已不僅僅是
瑞士業界最高明的地方，就是銷出了一個概念，淡化了腕
單，既能滿足功能的精確，又要滿足大眾的審美需求，當然我
須手錶？手錶的存在為了甚麼？
腕錶世界繁華起來，越來越多國家挑戰瑞士的「江湖地位」。 雖然英法都有成功的商業品牌，甚至不乏奢侈品，但大多都是
在乎其功能性上了。就我個人來說，腕錶的設計是簡潔而不簡
錶的計時功能，而強化了腕錶的人文附加值。這讓腕錶在如今
藉著瑞士提供的基礎來「借屍還魂」，原創性欠奉。德國、日 本的些許品牌，則是我最欣賞不過的了。兩者不約而同都是戰
個人是更偏向復古的設計的。每次流離在古董錶店的時候，看
人工智能當道的年代，仍能吃香。稍不求變的牌子，便很容易
敗國，民族性格上也都含著嚴謹特色。其實瑞士的製錶師傅，
著那些靜靜躺著的古董腕錶，都能感受到逝去無法複製的榮
淹沒在這大洪流之中。當 Apple Watch 面世之時，曾有人拋
也有不少是日耳曼人。二戰前的德國鐘錶事業發達，後來戰
光。當然了，古董錶是獨立於現代腕錶的一個範疇，浩如煙海。
出智能腕錶將取代傳統腕錶云云。但我認為這樣的事情應該不
敗，舊蘇聯的強拆設備，東德政府的消除私有化，等等打擊之
誠然，有這種情懷的，到底不止我一人，不然為何近年來，腕
會發生，皆因兩者的發展路線是不一樣的。傳統腕錶尤其是機
下，如今又再次騰飛。而日本，別小看他們產品的相對廉價，
錶界那麼多品牌都紛紛「推新出陳」， 把過往的經典款式重
械錶，從品牌、設計、工藝、取材，一步步成形，是一個讓人
但如果求穩求耐方面，不遑多讓，更別提昔日石英錶對瑞士的
新出版，市場也顯得非常受落。
期待的過程。生產出來的腕錶，已不是一件工具，是一件藝術
衝擊了。
從一次世界大戰前後，當人們發現把懷錶鑲嵌支條，穿過
品，更是一張個人名片，便閒話一下這腕上的「嘀嗒聲」。
閒話二三，不過過過嘴癮。真要論道，恐怕滔滔不絕。每
一根皮帶，便繫於腕上的時候，一百多年過去了，腕錶的形式
人類對時間的要求到底要多精準呢？從沙漏、日晷等，發
次看錶、購錶的過程，都讓我樂此不疲。寫罷，已然忍不住要
仍沒走樣。以小窺大，一部腕錶的發展史，何嘗不是人類近百 76
馬上去「一飽眼福」。 77
M UTAI
DEC 2018
on the world map
HARMONY 和
MOUTAI Magazine
It is reported that this year, Moutai developed 12 new markets
along "the Belt and Road". Its sales and revenue grew respectively by 36.4% year-on-year and 13.7% year-on-year. The sales volume
茅 台 在 全 球
on the World Map
along the B&R accounted for 22.6% of the total sales volume in overseas markets, becoming a focus of Moutai's international market.
2018 年貴州茅台海外經銷商大會在深圳召開
11 月 9 日，一場主題為「改革開放四十年 · 海外市場謀新篇」
的 2018 年貴州茅台海外經銷商大會在深圳召開，來自海外的經銷 商代表 200 余人齊聚一堂，共同籌畫茅台酒海外市場未來的藍圖。
上午 9 點，海外經銷商大會在熱鬧的氛圍中拉開序幕。茅台集
團公司董事長、總經理李保芳，茅台集團及股份公司副總經理張德
As an advocate of industry coopetition development, Li
芹、楊建軍、何英姿，茅台股份公司總經理助理馬玉鵬出席會議。
Baofang also visited the exhibition halls of Wuliangye, Luzhou
會議由張德芹主持。
Laojiao, Gujing Gongjiu, Niulanshan and Hetao Liquor.
今年以來，茅台圍繞「讓世界更加愛上茅台，讓茅台更加飄香
(Shang Yusong)
世界」，以文化推介、消費培育等為抓手，精耕「老市場」、拓展 「新市場」，有效應對了各種風險和挑戰，推動茅台海外市場保持 和擴大了穩中向好態勢。
李保芳參加中國國際酒博會
比增長 6.8%，出口創匯同比增長 34.5%。新發展試銷商 12 家，涵
會（秋季）在上海國家會展中心開幕。茅台集團公司董事長、總經
亞、安哥拉、外蒙古、秘魯、阿根廷共 10 個空白市場。目前，茅
本屆博覽會通過開展酒業論壇、品酒大賽、國際雞尾酒大賽等
會議通報，截至 2018 年 10 月 31 日，出口茅台酒及系列酒同
11 月 16 日，由中國酒業協會主辦的 2018 中國國際酒業博覽
蓋了尼日利亞、阿爾巴尼亞、立陶宛、摩洛哥、象牙海岸、坦桑尼
Kweichow Moutai Overseas Distributors Convention 2018 Held in Shenzhen
理李保芳受邀參加開幕式。
台共有分佈於五大洲 68 個國家和地區的 115 家海外經銷商，海外
活動，吸引了大量的中外賓客品鑒欣賞。
市場的銷售網路佈局日趨完善。
茅台展廳作為本屆博覽會最為火爆的展廳，除展出茅台酒及系
據悉，今年茅台新增「一帶一路」沿線市場 12 個，銷量、銷
列酒產品外，茅台旗下習酒公司、技術開發公司、保健酒業公司、
售額分別同比增長 36.4％、13.7％，沿線市場總銷量占海外市場總
On November 9, with the theme of "Celebrating the
葡萄酒公司、健康產業公司等子公司產品也一同亮相。
銷量的 22.6％，成為茅台國際市場的一個重點。
40th Anniversary of Reform and Opening-up, Seeking New
Opportunities in Overseas Markets", Kweichow Moutai Overseas Distributors Convention 2018 was held in Shenzhen. Over 200
作為行業競合發展的宣導人，李保芳在開幕式後還參觀了五糧
液、瀘州老窖、古井貢酒、牛欄山、河套酒業等兄弟企業展廳。
（尚鈺淞）
Li Baofang Attended China International Alcoholic Drinks Expo
overseas distributor representatives gathered to jointly plan the future blueprint of Moutai's overseas market.
At 9 a.m., the overseas distributors convention was started in
On November 16, hosted by China Alcoholic Drinks Association,
a lively atmosphere. Li Baofang (Chairman and General Manager
Wang Yan Surveyed the Guangxi Market
the 2018 China International Alcoholic Drinks Expo (Autumn)
of Moutai Group), Zhang Deqin, Yang Jianjun, He Yingzi (Deputy General Managers of Moutai Group and Kweichow Moutai Co.,
positive momentum in the overseas market.
Moutai Co., Ltd.) attended the convention. Zhang Deqin chaired
31, 2018, the export of Moutai liquor and Moutai series liquor
Ltd.), and Ma Yupeng (Assistant General Manager of Kweichow
According to the report of the convention, as of October
the convention.
increased by 6.8% year-on-year, and the export revenue increased
In this year, focusing on the principle of "Let the World Fall in
by 34.5% year-on-year. 12 pilot distributors were developed,
Love with Moutai, Let Moutai's Flavor Spread All over the World",
covering 10 blank markets in Nigeria, Albania, Lithuania, Morocco,
through such means as cultural promotion and consumption
Côte d'Ivoire, Tanzania, Angola, Mongolia, Peru and Argentina.
concept cultivation, Moutai intensively cultivated "existing market" and expanded "new market", and effectively responded to various
78
On November 13 and 14, Wang Yan (Deputy Party Secretary
Group) was invited to attend the opening ceremony.
of Moutai Group) surveyed the Guangxi market, visited Moutai's
guests to savor drinks through such activities as liquor industry
market reports during his attendance at the "Exhibition of Painting
The Expo attracted a large number of Chinese and foreign
franchised store and the front-line marketing staff, and listened to
forum, liquor tasting contest, and international cocktail contest.
& Calligraphy Works by Invited Chinese National Outstanding
Moutai's exhibition hall was the most popular exhibition hall in
Artists" in Nanning. Wang Yan emphasized that all people should
this Expo. In addition to Moutai liquor and Moutai series liquor, the
At present, Moutai's continually improved marketing network
products from Xijiu Company, Technology Development Company,
countries and regions on five continents.
and other subsidiaries were also exhibited together.
for overseas markets included 115 overseas distributors in 68
risks and challenges, maintaining and enhancing its stable and
was started at the National Exhibition and Convention Center
(Shanghai). Li Baofang (Chairman and General Manager of Moutai
play their part well, achieve the best in quality and service, further spread and promote Moutai culture, constantly consolidate the
Health Wine Company, Wine Company, Health Industry Company
market foundation, fully implement price stabilization measures, ensure the stable price of Moutai liquor market, and ensure the 79
M UTAI
DEC 2018
on the world map
HARMONY 和
MOUTAI Magazine
for overseas markets include 115 overseas distributors in 68
調研中，王焱走進專賣店，詳細查看產品陳列情況，仔細詢問
countries and regions on five continents. Moutai's overseas sales
茅台酒及系列酒市場銷售情況，認真瞭解客戶建檔管理工作。他要
account for about 7% this year and will reach 10% in the future."
求，要細緻認真地做好客戶建檔管理工作，切實做好服務，讓真正
Li Baofang said that North Koreans regarded Moutai as the
有需求的客戶有良好的購酒體驗；來到公司自營店，王焱和行銷人
best liquor. Other countries also thought Moutai the best liquor
員親切交談，詳細詢問他們的工作和生活情況，並囑咐他們離家在
of China. When talking about Moutai around the world, many
外要多與家人溝通，兼顧好家庭與工作，更要發揚艱苦奮鬥的優良
foreigners knew that it was a fine liquor of China.
作風，幹事創業，為茅台美好未來多作貢獻。
In Li Baofang's opinion, foreign students coming to China
在與經銷商座談時，王焱要求廣大經銷商不說「客套話」，直
面問題，如實回饋市場問題，多提寶貴意見建議。他指出，隨著廣
were the best promoters of Chinese culture and Moutai culture as
來前景可期，社會對茅台品牌和文化廣泛認可，市場基礎好，廣大
is open to young people around the world, embracing the world
well as the potential consumers of Moutai in the future. "Moutai
西經濟發展形勢越來越好，茅台及系列酒市場基礎將越來越好，未 經銷商要保持信心，深耕區域市場，進一步夯實基礎，助推發展。
（趙建寧）
Li Jingren Attended the 2018 Boao Forum for Entrepreneurs
healthy and benign development of the market.
On December 5, entrusted by Moutai Group Chairman Li
In the survey, Wang Yan visited Moutai's franchised store,
Baofang, Li Jingren (Deputy General Manager of Moutai Group)
inspected the product display, and carefully enquired about the
was invited to attend the main forum of the "2018 Boao Forum for
sales situation of Moutai products as well as the management
Entrepreneurs".
of customer archiving. He demanded that the franchised store
The forum was jointly hosted by Xinhuanet, China Economic
should carefully and meticulously manage customers' archives,
Information Service, Xinhua News Agency New Media Center, and
and achieve the best in service. Wang Yan also came to Moutai's
Xinhua Daily Telegraph. More than 200 entrepreneurs attended
wholly-owned retail store and talked with the marketing
the forum to salute the 40th anniversary of reform and opening-
personnel. He told them to communicate more with their families,
up and to jointly discuss the strategy of strengthening the nation
take good care of both family and work, carry forward the style of
through brands.
hard work, and contribute more to the better future of Moutai.
Li Jingren said, "Over the past 40 years of reform and opening-
During the discussion with distributors, Wang Yan asked the
up, Chinese brands including Moutai have grown larger and
distributors to face the problems directly, truthfully report market
stronger after years of twists and turns, and have increasingly
problems, and give more valuable suggestions. He pointed out
become emerging forces in the international market. In the future,
that Moutai's brand and culture were widely recognized by the
we are facing a more rigorous test. Only by striving to become
society. Therefore, the distributors should maintain confidence,
a model of deeply promoting global cooperation, innovation
deeply explore regional markets, and further consolidate the foundation.
and development, corporate governance as well as corporate
responsibility, can we maintain brand status and continue to lead
(Zhao Jianning)
the market in the next 40 years."
In recent years, Moutai has achieved industry leading position
王焱調研廣西市場
in such important indicators as market capitalization and brand
11 月 13 日、14 日，茅台集團公司黨委副書記王焱在出席廣
value. For the development of national brands, Li Jingren believed
西南寧「不忘初心——全國書畫名家作品邀請展」活動期間，深入
that the core of Chinese brands was to uphold the artisan spirit.
市場一線，調研廣西市場，走訪茅台酒專賣店，看望一線行銷人員， 聽取市場情況彙報。王焱強調，要充分做好「分內事」，抓好品質， 做好服務，進一步傳播好、弘揚好茅台文化，不斷夯實市場基礎， 執行好穩價措施，保障茅台酒市場價格平穩，確保市場健康良性發
80
experiencing Moutai, leading more foreign students to participate in the activities."
司副總經理李靜仁應邀出席「2018 中國企業家博鼇論壇」主論壇。
This study tour was part of the "Sino-Foreign Cultural
本次論壇由新華網、中國經濟資訊社、新華社新媒體中心、新
Exchange Program" jointly launched by Moutai and the School of
華每日電訊聯合主辦。200 多位企業家參加此次論壇，一起致敬改
International Studies.
革開放 40 周年，共同探討品牌強國戰略。
The "Connecting International Students, Exciting World Cup——
「改革開放 40 年來，包括茅台在內的中國品牌，經歷了由小
Moutai Night at Bird Nest" on July 6, the "Pillar Scholarship" project
變大、由弱變強的艱苦道路，日益成為國際市場上的新興力量。未
launched by the School of International Studies on September
來，我們面臨更嚴格的考驗，只有努力成為深入推進全球合作、創
21, and the study tour launched on November 9 together formed
新發展、商業治理和企業公益的典範，才能在下一個 40 年中，保
the "Sino-Foreign Cultural Exchange Program" jointly provided by
持品牌地位，持續引領市場。」李靜仁表示。
Moutai and the School of International Studies for foreign students
近年來，茅台在企業市值、品牌價值等重要指標上取得了行業
in China. By developing international Moutai fans, cultivating
領先地位。對於民族品牌發展，李靜仁認為，中國品牌的核心是秉
cultural messengers, and constantly spreading "cultural seeds" to
持工匠精神。身為企業界的一員，越是在經濟環境複雜的時候，越
the world, Moutai will lead the world to fall in love with itself and
要堅守本心，弘揚工匠精神，積極推動主業壯大，把產品做好，把
spread its flavor all over the world.
文化和服務做好，做到極致。
「歡迎來到多彩的貴州，來到醉美世界的茅台。」11 月 12 日，
茅台集團公司董事長、總經理李保芳在茅台國際大酒店與來自北京
"Welcome to the colorful Guizhou and the enchanting Moutai."
大學國際關係學院的外籍留學生對話，分享中國文化和茅台走向國
On November 12, Li Baofang (Chairman and General Manager
際市場的故事。
of Moutai Group) dialoged at Moutai International Hotel with
來自挪威、美國、德國、韓國、日本、俄羅斯、西班牙等 13
foreign students from the School of International Studies, Peking
個國家的 47 名外籍留學生，由北京大學國際關係學院和茅台北京
University to share the story of Chinese culture and Moutai's entry
經銷商聯誼會帶隊，參加「遊歷多彩貴州，探秘人文茅台」活動。
into the international market.
「茅台國際市場的銷售網路佈局已經日趨完善，五大洲 68 個
47 foreign students from 13 countries, including Norway, the
Beijing Distributors Association to participate in the activity of
(Song Lang and Ren Xu)
李保芳對話外籍留學生
Li Baofang Dialoged with Foreign Students
mission, carry forward the artisan spirit, actively promote the
culture as well as services.
in Beijing, Shanghai and other places to carry out the activities of
12 月 5 日，受茅台集團公司董事長李保芳委託，茅台集團公
United States, Germany, South Korea, Japan, Russia and Spain,
growth of the main business, and achieve the best in products,
展。
李靜仁出席 2018 中國企業家博鼇論壇
As a member of the business community, the more complex
the economic environment, the more we should stay true to the
and the future. Moutai will continue to organize foreign students
國家和地區分佈有 115 家茅台酒海外經銷商。今年茅台酒海外市 場銷量占比為 7% 左右，未來將做到 10%。」李保芳說，朝鮮人
were led by the School of International Studies and Moutai's
說茅台酒是最好的，其他國家也一樣認為茅台酒是中國最好的酒， 在世界各地說起「MOUTAI」，很多外國人都知道，這是中國的一
"Step into colorful Guizhou, Explore the culture of Moutai".
瓶好酒。
"At present, Moutai's continually improved marketing network
在李保芳看來，來華的留學生是中國文化和茅台文化最好的推
81
M UTAI
DEC 2018
on the world map
In his speech, Zhang Deqin, on behalf of Moutai Group,
介者，也是茅台未來潛在的消費者。「茅台向全球年輕人開放，就
welcomed Chilean high-level officials and business leaders to visit
是面向世界、面向未來。茅台將繼續組織北京、上海等地的留學生
China. He said that this year marked the 5th anniversary of China's
開展體驗茅台的活動，讓更多的留學生參與到活動中來。」
"B&R" Initiative as well as the 48th anniversary of Sino-Chilean
此次遊學活動是茅台聯合北京大學國際關係學院開展「中外文
diplomacy. As an annual activity for the cultural exchange between
化交流計畫」的一部分。
the two countries, "Chile Week" had demonstrated the beautiful
從 7 月 6 日的「讓世界永相連——激情世界盃，茅台文化傳」，
and fertile Chile to the Chinese people in the most authentic way.
到 9 月 21 日北京大學國際關係學院啟動「棟樑獎學金」項目，再
學院為在華外籍留學生提供的「中外文化交流計畫」，通過發展茅
受度與包容性，也擁有豐富的酒文化與悠久的釀造歷史。茅台衷心
Foreign Students Explored Guizhou and Moutai's Culture
台將奔赴聖地牙哥舉辦「文化茅台走進智利『一帶一路』品牌推介
On November 9, with the theme of "Step into colorful Guizhou,
希望為中智文化交流搭建一條充滿醇香的航道。2019 年 3 月，茅
活動」。屆時，誠摯邀請在座的各位嘉賓在美麗的「天涯之國」再 度重逢，把酒言歡。
Explore the culture of Moutai", the study tour participated by the
foreign students from the School of International Studies, Peking
（孟憲鑫）
University was officially launched at Xingyi's Maling River Canyon. The "Sino-Foreign Cultural Exchange Program" was jointly
also set up an effective communication bridge for Sino-Chilean
launched by Moutai Co., Ltd. and the School of International
unprecedented resonance of cooperation and friendship between
international Moutai fans. It included three parts: the large-scale
economic and trade cooperation. Moutai was being driven by this
台國際粉絲，培育文化傳播使者，不斷向世界撒播「文化種子」， 讓世界更加愛上茅台，讓茅台更加飄香世界。
場的版圖中佔據著重要位置。智利人民對各種酒類具有十分高的接
It not only served as a concrete measure for the "B&R" Initiative but
到 11 月 9 日開啟的遊學活動，構成了茅台聯合北京大學國際關係
HARMONY 和
MOUTAI Magazine
（宋浪 任旭）
Studies in accordance with Moutai Group's purpose of cultivating
China and Chile. Through the participation in the "Chile Week",
cultural and recreational activity of "Connecting International
Moutai hoped to integrate itself into the Sino-Chilean economic
Students, Exciting World Cup——Moutai Night at Bird Nest", the
and trade cooperation, and provide a high-quality product with
"Pillar Scholarship" project, and the study tour of "Step into
Chinese cultural connotation to Chilean people.
colorful Guizhou, Explore the culture of Moutai".
Zhang Deqin pointed out that Chile shared many common
These activities had helped to spread Moutai culture, develop
languages with Moutai and played an important role in Moutai's
international Moutai fans, cultivate cultural messengers, and
receptive to various alcoholic drinks, and boasted rich liquor
time, these activities also constantly spread "cultural seeds" to the
overseas market development. Chilean people were highly
enhance the international image of Moutai brand. At the same
culture as well as a long history of brewing. Moutai sincerely hoped
world and led the world to fall in love with Moutai.
to establish a mellow channel for cultural exchange between
During the activity, the foreign students visited such places
China and Chile. In March 2019, Moutai would hold "Moutai's
Cultural Trip to Chile and the Belt and Road Branding Activity".
At that time, Moutai would sincerely invite all the distinguished
guests present here to meet again in Chile and enjoy the liquor.
(Meng Xianxin)
Zhang Deqin (right) presented the
張德芹（右）代表公司向愛德華多 · 弗德
Eduardo Frei (left)
與智利人民最真摯的友誼
customized commemorative Moutai to
張德芹參加「中國智利周」活動
（左）贈送茅台定制紀念酒，表達了茅台
為確保 2019 年即將舉行的「文化茅台走進南美推介活動」順
利進行，提升活動影響力，11 月 1 日，受茅台集團公司董事長李
Zhang Deqin Attended the "Chile Week" Activity
保芳委託，茅台集團公司副總經理張德芹在北京與智利前總統、亞
太特命全權大使愛德華多 · 弗雷及智利政要一行，就茅台「一帶一
In order to ensure the smooth progress of "The Promotion
路」智利活動及未來合作進行交流和探討。
for Moutai's Cultural Trip to South America" to be held in March
11 月 2 日，第四屆「中國智利周」官方晚宴在北京舉行，茅
2019 and enhance the influence of the activity, on November 1,
台集團公司副總經理張德芹應邀出席晚宴，與各界嘉賓齊聚一堂，
(Deputy General Manager of Moutai Group) discussed Moutai's
張德芹在致辭中代表集團公司對智利高層和企業領導蒞臨中
entrusted by Moutai Group Chairman Li Baofang, Zhang Deqin
共結友誼，共話未來。
"Belt and Road" Chilean activity and future cooperation with
國表示歡迎。他說，今年是中國「一帶一路」倡議提出 5 周年，也
Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary Ambassador to Asia-Pacific)
活動，將美麗富饒的智利以最為本真的方式還原在中國民眾面前，
Eduardo Frei Ruiz-Tagle (Chile's former President, and Chile's
是中智建交 48 周年。「智利周」作為兩國間一年一度的文化交流
and other Chilean dignitaries.
在推動「一帶一路」倡議落到實處的同時，也為中智經貿合作搭起
On November 2, the official dinner for the fourth edition of
有效的溝通橋樑。茅台正被中智這股前所未有的合作與友好的共鳴
"Chile Week" was held in Beijing. Zhang Deqin was invited to
所牽動，我們希望參與「智利周」，使茅台融入中智經貿合作，為
attend the dinner and gathered with guests from all walks of life to
智利人民提供一款極具中華民族文化內涵的優質產品。
develop friendship and talk about the future.
張德芹指出，智利和茅台有很多共同語言，在茅台拓展海外市
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as Xingyi's Maling River Canyon and Wanfenglin, Huangguoshu Waterfall, and Guizhou Provincial Museum.
Yang Jianjun Surveyed the Jiang Fragrance Liquor Company
In an interview, the foreign students said that this study tour
was a rare experience in their life of studying abroad. They not only experienced the colorful scenery, but also learned more about
On November 28, Yang Jianjun (Deputy General Manager of
Moutai and fell in love with Moutai in the activities.
Moutai Group) surveyed the Jiang Fragrance Liquor Company and
外籍留學生遊歷多彩貴州 探秘人文茅台
held a working symposium. Li Mingcan (Deputy General Manager
of Moutai Co., Ltd., Chairman and General Manager of the Jiang
11 月 9 日，以「遊歷多彩貴州，探秘人文茅台」為主題的遊
Fragrance Liquor Company) presided over the meeting.
學活動在興義馬嶺河峽谷正式拉開序幕，北京大學國際關係學院留
Yang Jianjun pointed out that Moutai should continue to
學生參加活動。
intensively cultivate the market, constantly strengthen internal
「中外文化交流計畫」是按照茅台集團公司培育海外「茅粉」
management, consolidate the working foundation, and put the
的要求， 由茅台股份公司聯合北京大學國際關係學院所開展的活
principle of "emphasize foundation, strengthen management,
動，包含了「讓世界永相連——激情世界盃，茅台文化傳」大型文
build brand, promote sales, and reduce inventory" into practice,
娛活動、「棟樑獎學金」項目以及 「遊歷多彩貴州，探秘人文茅台」
so as to achieve the targets as fast as possible.
為主題的遊學活動三項內容。
通過此次活動，達到瞭解傳播茅台文化，發展茅台國際粉絲，
楊建軍調研醬香酒公司
培育文化傳播使者，提升茅台品牌國際形象的作用。同時，不斷向
11 月 28 日，茅台集團副總經理楊建軍前往醬香酒公司調研，
世界撒播「文化種子」，讓世界更加愛上茅台。
並召開工作座談會。茅台酒股份公司副總經理、醬香酒公司董事長、
活動期間，留學生們一行前往了興義馬嶺河峽谷、萬峰林，黃
總經理李明燦主持會議。
果樹瀑布，貴州博物館，「多彩貴州風」等地進行遊覽。
工作基礎，把「抓基礎、強管理、塑品牌、抓動銷、去庫存」落到
經歷，不僅領略了多彩的風景，還在活動中更加瞭解茅台， 愛上
楊建軍指出，要繼續精耕深耕市場、不斷強化內部管理，夯實
留學生在接受採訪時表示，此次遊學是留學生活中一次難得的
實處，在指標上做到能快則快。
茅台。 83