MOUTAI Moutai Magazine – International Edition
貴州茅台 國際雜誌
I S S U E
winter 2013
世界之醉•Magazine
Immortalised Spirit 凝固的瞬間 The King’s Mulberry Sauce 一個王的微醺舊夢
Johnson Chang: He Who Lives Contemporary Chinese Art 張頌仁：活在當代
Moutai in a Cocktail Glass 雞尾酒杯裏的茅台
The World’s Finest Wines and Liquors in Hong Kong 品酒盛會在香港 HKD 50 | RMB 40 | USD 7
晚 來 天 欲 雪 ， 能 飲 壹 杯 無 。
起於秦漢，熟於唐宋， 於秦漢，熟於唐宋，起於秦 精於明清，尊於當代。 於明清，尊於當代。 精於明 公元前135年，漢武帝， “枸醬”美酒， “甘美之” 5年，漢武帝， “枸醬”美酒， “甘美之”公元前135年，
1 9 1 5 年 ， 巴 拿 馬 金 獎 。 5年 ， 巴 拿 馬 金 獎 。 1 9 1 5 年 1949年，開國宴酒。1954 年，開國宴酒。1954 1949年， 年，日內瓦會議，卓別林。 日內瓦會議，卓別林。 年，日內 1961年，松崎君代，總理 1年，松崎君代，總理 1961年 贈茅台。1971年，基辛格 台。1971年，基辛格 贈茅台。 訪華。1972年，尼克松訪 。1972年，尼克松訪 訪華。1 華。1984年，聯合公報簽 1984年，聯合公報簽 華。198 訂，撒切爾夫人。1997年 撒切爾夫人。1997年 訂，撒切 ，香港回歸。1999年，澳 港回歸。1999年，澳 ，香港回 門回歸。1999年，霍克開 歸。1999年，霍克開 門回歸。 戒。2001年，中國入世。 2001年，中國入世。 戒。200 2002年申奧成功。2008年 年申奧成功。2008年 2002年申 ，“神舟”飛天。2013年 神舟”飛天。2013年 ，“神舟 ，安納伯格莊園，奧巴馬。 納伯格莊園，奧巴馬。 ，安納伯 Matching the remarkable historic moments is something with a phenomenal flair.
As time passes by, it leaves behind the enduring spirit of the Moutai liquor.
To eternalise ephemeral glory 瞬 間 即 永 恆 在 那 些 激 盪 的 偉 大 時 刻 需 要 一 種 氣 質 與 之 呼 應 茅 台 ， 時 間 的 贈 予 流 淌 在 歷 史 的 血 液 裡
貴州茅台酒（飛天)
貴 州 茅 台 世 界 三 大（ 蒸 餾 ）名 酒 www.moutaichina.com
chairman message 刊首語 Winter Issue 2013 二零一三年冬季刊
A Dialogue of Time and History 時間與歷史的對話 Just as celebrated writer Milan Kundera has famously said: “Human time does not turn in a circle; it runs ahead in a straight line.”, Confucius was also quoted in The Analects to have said, from above a river, that the past is like the water of the river: once it’s gone, it’s gone. In their own languages, the great visionaries both lamented the nature of time: once it’s gone, it’s gone forever. With the passage of time we experience the coming and going of people and things. We wish time could stand still but there is nothing we can do to stop it from passing. What we need to understand is that time is not an ever-extending platform, but an entity that creates life, a benchmark that aids the understanding of history. It’s time that enables the depth of life and profundity of history. It takes one minute to recite a great Tang poetry; it takes one hour to steam-cook a pot of millet rice; it takes a century to fully experience a life of ups and downs; and it takes one thousand years to dialogue the essence of Chinese philosophies. The comprehension of time is the focus of this issue of Moutai Magazine. From the immortalisation of a courageous steed on a battlefield, to a captivating scent born 2,000 years ago, and ‘the most luxurious building from the Suez Canal to the Bering Strait’ that continues to evoke a time, back in history, of glory. The past was once the present, and thanks to the people who lived in the moment and created history, the modern-day world can be inspired by the classic, beautiful things and stories. Through liquor-making, we perpetuate the momentary; with utmost dedication and patience, we transform a blueprint into splendour. The layer of grey on the wall of the cellar is not dust – it is evidence of a dialogue of time and history.
“人類之時間不是循環轉動的，而是直線前進。”這是米蘭．昆德拉的名句，正如中國儒家經典《論語》的一段著名記載：“子在川 上曰，逝者如斯夫！”二者皆在感嘆時間一維性的不可逆轉。我們在時間中生老病死，相聚與別離，我們不捨於時間的流走，但又無 法停止它。然而，時間並不是一個無盡延展的單薄平面，它是組成生命的材料，是解讀歷史的標尺，是它成就了生命的深度，積澱了 歷史的厚度。 朗誦一首動聽的中國唐詩需要一分鐘，蒸熟一鍋香氣撲鼻的米飯需要一小時，經歷一次悲喜交集的人生需要一個世紀，對話一種 中國哲學精神需要一個千年。對時間的解讀是本期的重點之一。古戰場上飛馳的駿馬被雕琢成石像化為永恆的思考；兩千年前的讚嘆 牽引著世人的鼻息；一個世紀前“從蘇伊士運河到遠東白令海峽最講究的建築”將榮光隱入了牆體，留下無盡的啟示。然而，歷史也 曾經是“當下”，活在當下的人們，從歷史中獲取資源創造當代的歷史，用創意與歡樂將經典點化為激動人心的美麗物事。 我們藉釀造之術，留住這世間的剎那和永恆。我們也在用專心與耐心，將藍圖釀就為輝煌。酒窖的白牆早已變灰，那不是塵埃， 是時間與歷史的對話。
Yuan Ren-guo 袁仁國 Chairman of CHINA KWEICHOW MOUTAI DISTILLERY (GROUP) CO., LTD. and KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD. 中國貴州茅台酒廠（集團）有限責任公司 貴州茅台酒股份有限公司 董事長
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CHINA KWEICHOW MOUTAI DISTILLERY (GROUP) CO., LTD. Maotai, Renhuai City, Guizhou Province, China 564501
KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD.
Maotai, Renhuai City, Guizhou Province, China 564501
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Consultants: Yuan Ren-guo, Chen Min, Liu Zi-li, Zhao Shu-yue, Fang Guo-xing Publisher: Francis Wang Chief Executive Officer: Christine Yin Creative Director: Dora Lu Managing Editor: TC Li Chinese Editor: Ale Tang Art Director: Chloe Yip Graphic Designers: Wingo Law, Issac Chan Senior Project Editor: Konzen Hou Assistant Project Editor: Nikita Wan Senior Account Manager: Wami Cheng Marketing Executive: Denise Chan Photographers: Bluer, Zhang Rui Senior Executive – Business Development: Lillian Leung Regional Director: Samson Tong Advertising Enquires: Tel: (852) 3580 2598 Email: er-hk@everreliable.net Printer: Infinity Printing Co., Ltd.
Rights Moutai Magazine (international edition) is published quarterly by ER HONGKONG HOLDING LIMITED under a license by KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD. Reprints, copy or use of any content in this magazine whether in whole or in part, shall only be allowed with the express written permission of KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD. No responsibility can be taken for unsolicited texts and photographs. The views and opinions expressed or implied in the articles do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher, editors or the licence holder. All content in this magazine have been complied to the best of our knowledge, but no warranty or representation is given as to its accuracy, completeness, relevance, timeliness or otherwise. Moutai Magazine (international edition) appears quarterly with editions published under cooperation or licence in two languages. Sponsor: Top Gainer Industrial Limited Special Thanks: Hanart TZ Gallery;
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Secret Retreats;
Contributors Craig Au-yeung
Dong Tie-zhu
A cross-media artist who loves life, food and
Dong Tie-zhu is a holder of Ph.D in Chinese culture
travel. Craig has been on a dedicated research on
at the University of California, Berkeley. Familiar with
contemporary home living and architectural design,
both Chinese and Western culture, Dong has been
from which he writes articles that are featured in
teaching Chinese culture at Wofford College (USA)
magazines in China, Hong Kong and Taiwan.
and United International College (Zhuhai).
Andrew Dembina
TC Li
Andrew Dembina, a print and radio journalist, has
A master’s degree-holder in international journalism
contributed to lifestyle and business pages of Hong
at Cardiff University, TC Li has contributed to
Kong, regional and international publications and
international and Hong Kong’s local publications
websites for two decades. He is now food and wine
spanning across different genres from inflight to
editor at Baccarat magazine, and a weekly contributor
lifestyle magazines.
to RTHK Radio 3.
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CONTENT 3 / Chairman Message
etiquette 禮
Harmony 和
刊首語
28 / Perfectly Complementary
58 / The People’s Scholar
耳目一新的創意酒肴
史景遷 為人民服務
The national liquor of China and a complementary seasonal feast. 美食美酒的季節味道
Jonathan D. Spence, the American China studies specialist of the time. 最時尚的美國漢學家
34 / The Historical Witness
62 / Life is a Dream
百年視覺憑證
故事裏的人生
The old Shanghai branch of The Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation witnessed the historical transformation of the city from The Bund. 原上海滙豐銀行大樓 見證時代的發展與變遷
A dream, a life, a thought-provoking philosophy in a theatrical play. 一場夢 一齣戲 一段人生 一道哲思
Nature 天 6 / Immortalised Spirit 凝固的瞬間 Six courageous steeds immortalised on stone to perpetuate people’s memories of them. 飛馳的駿馬被雕琢成石像化為永恆的思考
12 / The King’s Mulberry Sauce 一個王的微醺舊夢 A mulberry sauce that enthralled a kingdom in the ancient Orient. 古老的東方 枸醬讓一個王朝魂牽夢繞
40 / Drinking Culture in a Glass
people 人
A glimpse of the world’s drinking glasses. 探究酒杯的藝術
16 / Interview with Influential Chinese Figures – Johnson Chang, He Who Lives Contemporary Chinese Art 專訪中國名人─活在當代．張頌仁 From the time of counter-cultural movement to his effort in resurrecting Confucian rites, founder of Hanart TZ Gallery Johnson Chang chronicles his life devoted to contemporary Chinese art. 漢雅軒創辦人張頌仁 遊走中西之間的藝術人生
22 / Interview with Influential Western Figures – Jeremy Stockman, Life is Too Short to Drink
淺酌細品．杯中文化
muse 樂 44 / Moutai in a Cocktail Glass 雞尾酒杯裏的茅台 Award-winning mixologist Antonio Lai creates three molecular cocktails with the Moutai liquor. 國際知名調酒大師Antonio Lai的分子茅台雞尾酒
50 / A Sojourn to the Spice Islands 邂逅香料島 Silolona Sojourns brings travellers back in time to relive the spice trade travel in an exquisite tropical hardwood vessel. 木船上神遊香料國度──峇厘Silolona Sojourns度假村
68 / Premium Gourmet for Premium Liquor 五星饗宴．五星佳釀 Having renovated as a modern-looking restaurant, Michelinstarred Yan Toh Heen introduces a new wine cellar showcasing vintage western wines and the Moutai liquor, as well as a new menu. 欣圖軒 與美酒分不開的米芝蓮星級粵菜
74 / Craig Au-yeung Column – LOHAS Living in a Garden 歐陽應霄專欄 ─ 樂活園圃 Cross-media artist and columnist Craig Au-yeung on his thought-provoking culinary experience at Petersham Nurseries. 跨媒體專欄作家歐陽應霽 返璞歸真的味蕾之旅
76 / Moutai on the World Map 茅台在全球
Bad Wine 專訪西方名人─人生苦短，勿喝劣酒．謝學文 Trading Director of Watson’s Wine, Jeremy Stockman speaks about wine cultures and his life growing up with wine. 屈臣氏酒窖貿易總監謝學文細談喝酒、品酒、買酒
26 / Red and Black 紅與黑 Hong Kong artist Ng Chung, between sobriety and tipsiness. 藝術家吳松的醒與醉
56 / The World’s Finest Wines and Liquors in Hong Kong 品酒盛會在香港 Moutai liquor exhibits its prowess at the Hong Kong International Wine & Spirits Fair 2013. 國酒茅台亮相香港國際美酒展2013
80 / Kweichow Moutai Overseas Agency Network – Your Liquor Appreciation Journey Begins Here 開啟你的品鑑之旅 貴州茅台海外經銷商網點
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Nature 天
IMMORTALISED SPIRIT 凝固的瞬間 TEXT/文: Dora Lu, Konzen Hou
image/圖: ImagineChina 東方IC
translation/譯: TC Li
All lives on earth follow a course. For the humankind, a year consists of a cycle of spring, summer, autumn and winter. When the same cycle repeated itself for countless times in history, it created an era. Arriving soon is the year 2014, the Year of the Horse in Chinese culture. Inevitably mentioned in any literature on Chinese art are six steeds, whose courageous battle thousands of years ago was sculpted by the most distinguished sculptor on a stone wall. The steeds were immortalised, artistically, to continue to revive people’s memories of them. 萬物更迭有它自己的次序。 人們把春夏秋冬的一個輪迴，視作一年； 同樣的過程，發生於歷史，被稱為一個時代。 即將到來的2014年，是中國人的馬年。 有六匹駿馬，任何一本關於中國藝術的通史都不能不提起， 牠們在千年前戰場上搏殺的瞬間，被最優秀的藝術家雕刻在石壁上，化為不朽， 讓人們對牠的牽掛永不停歇。
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The bas-relief of Saluzi is currently displayed at the University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology & Anthropology. 颯露紫石刻現藏於美國賓夕法尼亞大學博物館
The Six Steeds of Zhao Mausoleum – Saluzi 昭陵六駿之颯露紫 Boasting a body of violet hair, Saluzi raced away. During Emperor Taizong of Tang’s conquer of the Eastern Turkic Khaganate, it was shot in the chest by an arrow. Head lowered and vision regressed, Saluzi began shivering. The general then lowered his body, leant towards Saluzi and pulled out the arrow. The explicit display of tender emotions between man and horse, in the face of life-threatening danger, was a sentimental sight. 颯露紫毛色紫紅，奔馳如風。在唐太宗東征的戰場上，牠前胸中一箭。這一瞬間，牠垂首 偎人，眼神低沈，全身顫慄。大將軍丘行恭俯身貼近馬首為牠撥箭，臨危之際，人與馬的 深摯情感，令人動容。
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Nature 天
As a symbol of speed, the steed, once depicted through a bas-relief, has enabled the creation of an enthralling piece of art. So used to racing against time, we can perhaps better see the form of time if we would only pause the pace we are going. 駿馬，從來是速度的象徵， 而凝固成石刻， 卻成就了驚世的藝術。 習慣了與無形的分秒追逐， 或許停下腳步， 我們能看見時間的姿態。
The Six Steeds of Zhao Mausoleum – Baitiwu 昭陵六駿之白蹄烏 With a body of hair dark as night and hooves white as snow, Baitiwu lifted its head and stared with wrath, as it charged forward as if flying in the air, its hair tamed by the wind. Vividly captured on the bas-relief is the steed racing along the Loess Plateau, carrying the Emperor on its back. Baitiwu suffered no arrow injury; it probably passed because of fatigue. This is a steed Emperor Taizong of Tang called the ‘wind-chasing charger’. 牠毛髮漆黑如夜，四蹄卻俱白如雪。牠昂首怒目，四 蹄騰空，鬃毛迎風，這疾速奔馳的瞬間，凝固於精美 的石刻裏，足以還原牠載著君王在黃土高原上急馳追 擊的情景。白蹄烏身上並沒有箭傷，或許是因為長途 疾馳力竭而終，唐太宗讚其為“追風駿足”。
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The bas-relief of Baitiwu is currently displayed at the Xi’an Beilin Museum. 白蹄烏石刻現藏於中國西安碑林博物館
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Nature 天
The bas-relief of Quanmaogua is currently displayed at the University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology & Anthropology. 拳毛騧石刻現藏於美國費城賓夕法尼亞大學博物館
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To quote Chinese philosopher Zhuangzi, life on earth is, like a white steed crossing a rift, a matter of an instance. Once we have grasped the meaning of time, we can perhaps better live in the moment. 莊子云： 人生天地之間， 如白駒過隙，忽然而已。 當我們理解了時間的意義， 或許能更從容地品味當下的生活。
The Six Steeds of Zhao Mausoleum – Quanmaogua 昭陵六駿之拳毛騧 The six arrow injuries on the body of this steed with curly hair are telltale signs of the fierceness of this battle in 622 C.E. With the battle won, the Tang Dynasty was born, and the soul of this audacious steed was eternised on a slab of blue stone. Thousands of years later today, the warm light of the museum transforms its pain into thoughts destined for an eternity. 這匹周身旋毛捲曲的戰馬，身中九箭。可以想見，公元622年的這場戰役是如 何的激烈。戰役結束後，一個空前的唐王朝從此誕生，牠卻將一縷魂魄遁入青 石。千年後的博物館裏，溫柔的燈光將牠的痛苦化為對永恆的思考。
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Nature 夊
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The King’s
Mulberry Sauce 一個王的微醺舊夢 The fading memories in history Settle in the fine liquor Hover above the mountain tops And captivate the noses and breaths Of those who live in this day and age. 逝去的歷史， 沈澱在美酒中， 縈繞在山崗上， 牽引著世人的鼻息。 TEXT/文: Chasel Wang
W
image/圖: Vassil
translation/譯: TC Li
ith a fleeting existence of merely 300 years, the ancient Kingdom of Yelang remains to today an intriguing part of the Records of the Grand Historian. Try as hard as one may to
fathom the history of this kingdom, he is destined to be rendered clueless. Leaning on the side of a big mountain and surrounded by a river, the kingdom would have been a picturesque place, but so would it have been isolated, where visitors from outside left as soon as they came. Living a solitary life in the woods, 2,000 years ago in history tucked away in the mountain range of southwest China, was a lady who washed clothes by the river. A look at her and one would be compelled to learn more about her; once one has learnt about her, one would never forget her. Two thousand years ago in the Han Dynasty, she was a love at first sight. It was a time of turbulence, when the Nanyue Kingdom in the Pearl River
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Nature 天
Estuary was in a perpetual feud with the
Historian, whose writing commenced in this
General Tang Meng didn’t travel to Xibu
Minyue Kingdom in the Wuyi Mountains.
period in history, had recorded this particular
alone. His beloved concubine Gou Zhen-
When the new Nanyue King was throned,
historical event where Emperor Wu of Han,
ying came along initially to take care of her
Minyue took advantage of the turmoil and
after a sip of the mulberry sauce liquor,
husband, yet she succumbed to fatigue and
staged war. Nanyue was forced to seek
complimented on its unparalleled, refreshing
illness that in the end, General Tang Meng
assistance from Han, and the Han Emperor
sweetness. And that was from an Emperor
buried her at a mountain ridge to the east of
sent General Tang Meng to help. The result
who had had all the fine food and liquor the
Xibu, overlooking Chang’an, thousands of
was a victorious Nanyue and an army that
world had to offer.
miles away.
But that was not the end of the story.
his territory, the King of Nanyue held a
Having learnt at the banquet that the
ridge ‘Han Po Ling’, literally the ‘cold woman
sumptuous banquet as a gesture of gratitude
mulberry sauce was traded along the river
ridge’, as Gou was born in the cold north of
for the Han army.
from Yelang to Nanyue, General Tang Meng
China. A great number of mulberry trees
Out of the great array of gourmet
contemplated about a new shortcut that
began to grow on the ridge, which would
delights especially prepared by the King
connected the Kingdom of Shu and Nanyue.
bear sweet and plump fruits in autumn to be
of Nanyue, General Tang Meng had his
Soon after, Emperor Wu of Han assigned
made into magnificent liquor, with the Han
undivided attention on a special liquor that
General Tang Meng with the construction of
soul still lingering within.
had a clear colour and thick body, a liquor
the ‘Yelang Trail’ (also called ‘Nanyi Trail’).
The Xibu area of Yelang Kingdom is
that was fragrant and pure. Lavish with his
Construction of a colossal scale spanning
really Renhuai City in Guizhou Province
compliment for, and consumption of this
over two decades, all because of a glass of
today. Thousands of years of liquor-
liquor, the General decided to enquire the
fine liquor.
making tradition has filled the air in the
King of Nanyue about the liquor.
And then one day in 130B.C., General
river valley with microorganisms, lending
He soon learnt that the liquor was
Tang Meng took off from Chang’an, trekked
a hand to the locals’ manufacturing of
produced in a place called Xibu in the
thousands of miles, along the Chishui River,
liquor. Such is why the Moutai Town in
Yelang Kingdom, a kingdom in southwest
all the way to Xibu. A fish by the name of ‘xi’
this province is endearingly known as
China that comprised numerous tribal
was native to this area, it was believed.
‘China’s First Liquor Town’.
kingdoms. The tribal chiefs, with a love for
The water of the Chishui River was
The art of making the mulberry sauce
alcohol, would order their subordinates to
exceptionally clear and sweet; surrounded
liquor may have been lost together with
make liquor with the wild paper mulberry,
by mountain ranges, the river valley was
the mysterious disappearance of the Yelang
a liquor that was called ‘mulberry sauce’
warm in winter, hot in summer, with little
Kingdom, but the mountain and the river
liquor. The art of making the liquor was
rain or wind, as if it was destined by nature
remain. With their respect for natural
mastered by only a handful and passed on
to be a wine cellar. The Pu people in the
resources and seasonal changes, the people
to few, hence the small scale of production.
village would pick fruits came the Double
of Moutai Town have managed to perfect
Yet since Nanyue and Yelang were
Ninth Festival every year, and make liquor
the art of liquor-making. As the river that
connected by trade, the precious liquor
with the water from the river. They never
has given birth to an incalculable number of
was eventually exported to Nanyue.
called themselves liquor-makers; they called
fine wines and liquors, the Chishui River is
themselves the labourers who collected
naturally crowned the ‘River of Fine Liquor’.
As General Tang Meng downed glass after glass, no less spellbound by the
fruits and turned them into a sauce.
In the tranquility of the wine cellar, the
liquor’s uniqueness, it occurred to him how
And that was how Han unveiled life at
mouths of ceramic liquor bottles are sealed
inappropriate it would be for him to not
Yelang and had a taste of the unmistakable
with white paper made with mulberry tree
let the Emperor of Han have a taste of it as
aroma. From that came the Chinese saying
bark. For days and nights, year after year,
well. And so on his way back to the capital,
that went: “What is that mulberry sauce of
the liquor will continue to invite fragrance
he brought a bottle of the liquor along.
Han’s? That mulberry sauce was what lured
from faraway, with the magical power
General Tang Meng all the way to Xibu.”
bequeathed by the nature.
It is believed that in Records of the Grand
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The locals later named this mountain
defected from Minyue. Having secured
MOUTAI Magazine
古
夜郎國是中國歷史記憶中的一
之”。這樣的美酒，就算在嘗盡世間美味的
但因積勞成疾，一病不起。唐蒙把愛妾安
口深井，在世間停留了300年便
皇帝眼裏，也是酒中上品。
葬在鰼地東邊的山嶺上，那裏居高望遠，
神秘消失，如果現在有人用傳
這個故事並沒有結束。
放眼去，遙遙千里便是長安。這座山嶺，
在南越王的宴席上，因為得知枸醬是
當地人稱為“寒婆嶺”，只因茍貞英是來自
說或史實輪番撥開霧霾，恐怕也只得井口 一瞥。
通過水路從夜郎販運到南越，唐蒙獲知了
遙遙寒冷之地的北方。從此，寒婆嶺就開
兩千多年前，她僻處大山，依傍緩
一條從蜀地通往南越的新近道。不久受漢
始長出許多枸樹，每年的秋天，結滿甜美
河，一定山清水秀，但又一定山隔水阻。
武帝之命，奔赴夜郎修建“夜郎道”（又稱
的果實，釀造出的美酒，讓漢魂牽夢縈。
山外來客來了又匆匆別離。她是中國西南
南夷道）。因為一杯美酒，漢王朝展開了歷
群山中隱於林間的浣紗女，你望向她，就
時二十多年的開拓新領地的宏大工程。
不由自主想了解她。你了解了她，就一定
我們把目光轉移到此時的東方，妖嬈 夜郎國深處的村落鰼部，便是今天中國貴
這大概是公元前130年的一天，唐蒙從
州省仁懷一帶。數千年來的釀造傳統，讓
遙遠的長安城再度出發，繞嶺千里，沿赤
這裏的空氣充滿了靈動的微生物群落，瀰
兩千多年前的漢，便如此一眼深情。
水河而上奔鰼地而來。據說，這裏生長一
漫在山谷之間，使美酒的釀造有如神助。
那時，身處珠江流域的南越國與緊
種叫“鰼”的魚。
因此，這裏的茅台鎮被稱為“中國第一酒
不會忘了她。
依武夷山的閩越國鄰里不和，是個多事之
流經此地的赤水河，格外清透甘甜。
秋。南越新王繼位，內外混沌，閩越便乘
河谷被群山環抱，冬暖夏熱，少雨少風，
如今，枸醬酒的釀造古法隨著夜郎
機發動戰爭。南越不得已向漢求援，漢主
簡直是造物主創造的天然酒窖。村中濮
國的神秘消失已難以復原，但山還是那座
欣然派唐蒙前往。
人，每年重陽採摘果實，掬取河水，他們
山，水還是那條水。茅台古鎮的人們，千
從不自詡釀酒師，他們只說自己是採集玉
百年來尊重自然的恩賜，順應季節的更
液瓊漿的使者。
替，讓源遠流長的釀造工藝至臻完善。這
南越得到大漢鼎力相助，閩越只好倒 戈。於是，保住了領地的南越王擺上宴席 向漢軍致謝。 南越王精心準備了滿桌的珍饈美食， 大將唐蒙卻唯獨被一種特別的酒所吸引，
就這樣，漢揭開了夜郎的面紗，索了 一啖醇厚幽香。中國民間便有名句傳世， “漢家枸醬為何物？賺得唐蒙鰼部來”。
鎮”。
條清澈的赤水河，也因為孕育了太多的名 酒，被世人譽為“美酒河”。 酒窖裏，枸樹皮製成的白紙包裹著
它色鮮濃稠，甘香純真，沁人心脾。他品
唐蒙此行，帶來了愛妾茍貞英。而茍
陶瓷酒罎的封口，在漫漫的日與夜裏，
了又品，讚不絕口，便向南越王詢問起
貞英，永遠地留在了鰼地。原本她隨軍來
靜靜用自然生成的魔力，去收獲更遼遠的
來。
到這裏，只求在軍中噓寒問暖照應丈夫，
芳香。
原來此酒產自夜郎國的鰼部。夜郎 國是中國西南地區一個由許多部落組成的 部落酋長國。他們的部落王族好酒，便使 人取山野間的枸樹果實— 聚花果，釀造 成酒，稱為“枸醬”。這種釀造工藝只由 鰼部的少數人掌握，產量極少，不輕易外 傳。但南越與夜郎有通商之誼，這稀世珍 酒還是順流而下，來到南越。 唐蒙一杯一杯地喝，直感是人間美 味。但想到如果一人獨飲，不獻給大漢天 子，絕對是僭越之極。於是他便在上路回 都的時候，帶上了一罎。 據說，成書於此時的《史記》記載 了這段歷史：漢武帝端起酒樽，輕飲一杯 枸醬酒後，便情不自禁嘆上了一句“甘美
MOUTAI Magazine
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people äşş
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MOUTAI Magazine
Interview with Johnson Chang 專訪張頌仁
He Who Lives Contemporary Chinese Art 活在當代 Rarely do you see someone clad in traditional Chinese clothes in Central, the happening commercial hub of Hong Kong. But if you do come across that someone, chances are that he could be Johnson Chang Tsong-zung, curator and dealer of contemporary Chinese art, and founder of Hanart TZ Gallery. 走在商廈林立的時髦中環區，見到有人穿傳統中式唐裝的機會可謂 微乎其微，但若真見着了那仙風道骨的身影，那人極有可能就是 著名藝評人、策展人兼當代中國藝術策展發源地“漢雅軒” 創辦人張頌仁。也許，有些人就是天生注定與眾不同。 TEXT/文: TC Li
Photography/攝: Bluer
Art Direction/美指: Chloe Yip
translation/譯: 鄧美茵
Special Thanks/特別鳴謝: Hanart TZ Gallery
MOUTAI Magazine
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people 人
“E
ven as a teenager I felt awkward
to the west and opening frontiers has reached
to not wear Chinese clothes but
the Pacific, and that was the end of the journey.
Citing the big-frame computer, part of the
plunging towards.”
to dress up like a westerner. The
In terms of humanity, seeing mankind from outer
drive for the democratisation of information,
only ‘legitimate’ time to wear Chinese clothes in
space was also an experience of coming face to
as one of the symbols of the counter-cultural
a year was the Chinese New Year, and I always
face with the finitude of humanity.”
movement, Chang couldn’t help but lament:
did. I had my long gown made when I was 16.
Among the anchoring points of the counter-
“Ironically, the call for individualisation of
After I got married in the 1990s, I decided that
cultural movement were the call for a more
information, archiving and the workspace is
I was old enough to do whatever I like – I was
human-scale existence, and the call for a global
now a reality, except that instead of working
42,” said Chang. “Traditional Chinese clothes are
village, seeing the world as a composition
eight hours, we now work 24 hours.”
the most comfortable clothes you can imagine.
of interdependent entities. It was also a time
Yet despite the outcry against the Vietnam
It’s like walking around in pyjamas. That said,
immediately following a ground-breaking
War, Chang admitted that he had a slightly
though, I normally only wear the short ones
exhibition in Berlin, with its significance being
different take on the whole situation – he didn’t
as it’d be awkward to be getting on and off
its reference to The Whole Earth catalogue made in
feel the same urgency as his college peers did. “I
public transport and climbing stairs in the long
1968 by Stewart Brand. “Everybody had a copy
didn’t really feel the impact of the Vietnam War,
gown.” He also brings a Pentel pocket brush pen
of this catalogue, I did too. The catalogue was a
not as much as the Americans who were drafted
that delivers strokes not unlike the traditional
manual of things that you need intellectually and
and sent to the frontline did. Rather, I was more
Chinese brush, and not without a reason: “I can
practically to survive the world which was to come
obsessed with cultural China. The most important
write Chinese words better with it. This pen is
with this new awareness. It was the forerunner of
thing about the movements in 1960s and 1970s
the greatest Japanese invention since the rice
the Google search engine. The whole idea was
America is the awakening and empowerment of
cooker. While you don’t necessarily need to write
about providing information on things that were
youth. It is interesting for me, because while the
Chinese characters with the Chinese brush, the
not the mainstream, and alternative channels of
sense of empowerment of the individual in the
practice of writing with this writing tool is itself
living. The exhibition called for a more personal
United States back then has certainly rubbed off
an education for children on aesthetics – where
engagement with work, versus the Fordist idea
on me, people from my generation – people who
and how to put the strokes in the box in the
of assembly line and the individual as a cog in
came of age in the 1960s and 1970s in China –
copybook is the foundation of art education for
the wheel. The exhibition advocated for work
had perhaps an even more powerful sense of
the people.”
to be more satisfying, more directly engaged,
individual empowerment, because they really had
counter-alienation – in short, a liberation from
a hand in attacking institutions in a much more
the machinery of a production that the world was
radical way than their counterparts in America.
In Flower Power America Yet this man, respected for his palpable contribution to the introduction of contemporary Chinese art to international exhibitions in the 1990s, came a long way to be the person he is today. Out of fear for the Cultural Revolution, Chang was sent off to study in the United States, where he received a ‘rounded education in humanities with a touch of science’ at Williams College. “It was a time when there was a huge protest against the Vietnam War, and also an awakening of conscience for America. It was certainly a very different angle of cultural experience. The counter-cultural movement in the 1960s and 1970s was directed at, while being a critique of the rise of a human-scale of corporate control. It was a conscious rise against the already fading philosophy of Fordism. One of the things the counter-cultural movement in the United States tried to achieve during the 1960s and 1970s was the limits of the human beings on earth, starting from seeing the view of the earth from outside the planet. The whole American Dream of going 18
MOUTAI Magazine
Johnson Chang with Michael Sullivan (right) at ‘The Stars: 10 Years’ in 1989. 張頌仁與蘇立文（右）攝於1989年“星星十年”畫展
Though now I come to think of that, perhaps
well, except that it happened earlier and the way
As contemporary Chinese artists’
the Cultural Revolution in China was also based
learning was structured suited within the western
springboard to a wider audience, Hanart TZ
on another of these eutopic ideas of liberation
civilisation, so in a way it was more ‘reasonable’.
Gallery was founded when Chang realised that
– it was also a youth movement, but of course
But still, there were still a lot of things that
there was no place to show art in Hong Kong.
with very different results, and of very different
couldn’t be brought forward and had to be
Yet to quote Chang, for an art gallery to work as
technocractic implications.”
thrown somewhere, and the art world became
an art institution, it takes much more than trading
where they landed. The art platform is a very
commodities. “Hanart Square is hosting a non-sell
convenient platform to explore things that are of
exhibition, a project I worked on for two and a
“I think the American experience is very important
cultural interests, things that are not confined by
half years, which involves the exchange between
for me because a lot of my method of thinking
strict disciplinary parameters. It is a great zone for
Chinese artists and Indian artists. I’ve sent some
is derived from a comparative cultural viewpoint,
things that the framework of modern intellectual
Indian artists to Shanghai, and some Chinese
which provides me with a perspective and
disciplines cannot encompass, meaning things
artists and a Taiwanese curator to India in the last
awareness, like the satellite looking at the earth.”
born from traditional knowledge and from
two years and they came up with this exhibition.
And so three years of college education later,
sides of heritage where they cannot fit in. The
I call the project ‘West Heavens’, ‘heavens’ in
under the realisation that he needed to catch up
art platform is therefore a garbage pail for these
plural because I’m against monotheism. Chinese
with his Chinese education, Chang took a year
things discarded by the Cultural Revolution and
and Indian artists have only met each other on
off to read Chinese classics at the University of
western civilisation.”
the western platforms in the past 10 to 20 years,
‘The Satellite Looking at the Earth’
Hong Kong. But he was disappointed. “I realised
Yet with time, Chang thinks the art platform
so this is really a project that brings the Chinese
that they were teaching Chinese classics and
can be used to resolve Chinese cultural problems.
culture closer to its neighbours’ cultures. This
Chinese history as they would teach non-Chinese
“The fact that we embraced the western system
project is something new, and for me it’s exciting.”
– we were asked to study bibliography and the
means that we had to throw away a significant
But with Chang being his busy self, ‘Western
philosophy of history, rather than reading actual
amount of things that are important to the Chinese
Heavens’ isn’t the only thing that is taking
texts. But I was fortunate to sense the problem,
culture, and some of the things were suppressed
up his time, but the promotion and revival of
because there were still traditional-style Chinese
because they were deemed ‘terrible’. But perhaps
Confucianism as well. To Chang, contemporary
classics masters in Hong Kong in the 1970s, who
they were only deemed ‘terrible’ because they
art is currently in vogue, something in its prime
came from China after 1949 or even earlier in the
were powerful? So now I’m trying to release these
time, and the most suitable cultural expression of
1920s – people who were already unhappy with
once-abandoned things on the art platform.”
the generation, while Confucianism has been a
the first revolution, let alone the second. At least I
popular ideology for 2,000 years, except that it has
caught a glimpse of that generation of scholars and
Artistic Preoccupations
what Chinese scholarship could have been like.”
With ‘international’ being an abstract concept,
founding of Jia Li Tang to rekindle and restructure
And it was a Chinese scholarship that only
Chang believes that every artist worth his salt has
the system of etiquette, such as the restoration of a
‘could have been’, because in the eyes of Chang,
his feet on the ground, because only with his feet
whole ancient village with traditional construction
China is completely westernised in all aspects
on the ground can he have something to say that
techniques in Jin Ze, Shanghai. “I just started this
of its culture, starting from its political system
is international or universal. And he speaks as he
project on film-remaking, which is a historical
to the way it structures education and learning.
finds, as the middleman between contemporary
reconstruction of the Confucian ‘rites’, and I see
“That created a big problem for China in the
Chinese art and the international audience, a
the possibilities of doing different art and cultural
1920s – where do you put the classics, the core
role that is not without its challenges. “I need
projects around it. Jia Li Tang – Remaking Confucian
of learning? Chinese classics is not just literature
to constantly find something interesting to say,
Rites is about Chinese etiquette. It’s something
and history, because otherwise where does
not just to the international audience but also be
nobody has done, something really cool to do, so
Confucianism fit in? Apparently Confucianism
the first person who has something interesting
this is my latest point of excitement.”
is categorised as philosophy but it’s more than
to say to the local audience. It’s like the tourism
In the eyes of this man, who endeavoured to
history, and people try to make him a religious
bureau trying to find out what tourists like to
introduce the international world to contemporary
head but Confucianism is not a religion. And
see – tourists like to see what the locals want to
Chinese art, Moutai, the national liquor of China,
then there’s the case of Chinese literature, which
see, not places specially made for tourists.” So
has also taken off from its motherland to the
is more than just literature – Chinese literature,
instead of just selling art pieces for artists, Chang
international limelight. “The Moutai liquor
Chinese classics and Chinese history are all
works with artists on their projects and likewise,
has been the liquor of choice at banquets for
welded together. In the end, these precious parts
the artists partake in his projects, because “Every
international dignitaries, and so in many ways
of historical legacy were cut down in size and the
honest effort in creating something authentic,
it already has secured a steady footing in the
things that did not fit into the western system
which involves people coming together with
international world. And its international status
were thrown away, which is ridiculous.”
their own ideas and talents, is the recipe for the
is explained by its paramount quality – despite
birth of new ideas.”
its high alcohol content, it doesn’t give you a
“The same thing happened to Europe as
been sidelined for the past 100 years. Hence his
headache but sheer enjoyment.” MOUTAI Magazine
19
people 人
Johnson Chang with Ho Hing-kay (centre), and Li Xian-ting (right) at ‘China’s New Art, Post-89’ in 1993. 張頌仁、何慶基（中）及栗憲庭（右）攝於1993年的“後八九中國新藝術”展
“自
小我就覺得中國人穿洋服很彆 扭。還記得小時候每年只有農 曆新年‘獲准’穿唐裝，所以
過節時一定見到我穿唐裝。16歲，我造了 自己的第一套長衫。直到42歲結婚那年， 我覺得自己夠‘成熟’了，可以揀喜歡的穿 了，就一直穿唐裝穿到現在。”張笑道： “唐裝的舒適，是你意想不到的。那感覺簡 直就像穿上睡衣一樣舒坦自在。話雖如此， 畢竟穿長衫乘公車、爬樓梯不大方便，所 以我大多只穿短打。”與眾不同的不止這 一樣，張頌仁的口袋裏還常備一支Pentel科 學毛筆：“用（科學）毛筆，寫中文會流暢 一點。這實在是日本繼電飯煲後最偉大的發 明。寫中文字當然不一定要用毛筆，但毛筆 字有一個特殊的好處─一個小孩要學習在
一個方塊裏面，把橫豎撇勾點都放得對、放 得好看，這種’好看’的審美考慮，其實就 是最基礎的全民藝術教育。”
權力歸花兒 1990年代，張頌仁被公認為將當代中國藝 術呈上國際舞台的“第一人”，但這條漫長 的路，走來不易。因着文化大革命，家人將 張頌仁送到美國麻省威廉姆斯大學留學，接 受他口中“人文與科學兼備的全人教育”。 “那時候正值反越戰情緒最高漲的時 期，我趕上了一個講良知、講反省、講絕對 開放的年代，毫無疑問，年少的我被這異國 文化深深地震撼、衝擊着。”張回想道： “當時，美國人大力反對主張機械化、自 動化和標準化生產的福特主義，由此引爆 了1960至1970年代的反文化運動；運動中 的太空競賽，更為人們掙脫‘地平線’的桎 Johnson Chang at China Club, 2010. 張頌仁攝於中國會（2010年）
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MOUTAI Magazine
梏，開拓全新的思維與視野。‘美國夢’生 起，帶領着冒險家和拓荒者西行遠至太平
洋。從人文角度來看，由‘全球’和‘外太
望。“他們是用教外國人的方法去教中國文
遊局要為遊客推介觀光點一樣，遊客愛去的
空’的角度觀探渺小人類的所作所為，令人
學和中國歷史，”他解釋道：“我們讀的不
是本地人也喜歡的地方，不是特意為遊客而
頓悟天地無垠、人文有限。”
是真的典籍，而是一些文獻和歷史理論。
設的商業化景點。”因此他不單會為藝術家
反文化運動鼓吹人本主義，人們視“世
幸好1970年代的香港有不少1920至1949年
推銷作品，更會與藝術家攜手創作不同的項
界”為一條地球村，“村民”是互相依賴的個
以後、因着兩次革命從中國內地移居香港的
目，藝術家們也會參與他的項目。“帶着不
體。而運動的催化劑之一，是史超活布蘭德
‘傳統’學者，我有幸藉此猜想到真正的中
同意念和才華的人走在一起，熱切地由零開
於1968年出版的反文化運動“聖經”《全球
國學者和中國學術研究是怎樣的，也因此能
始進行創作，自然會生出不少新思維、新概
目錄》及其破天荒的柏林展覽。“當年每一
夠識辨課程的好壞。”
念。”
個人都有一本《全球目錄》，我當然也不例
說是“猜想” ，全因在張頌仁眼中，當年
1970年代，張頌仁有鑑香港藝術空間
外。這目錄可以說是一本生存手冊，內裏詳
的中國由政治系統到教育制度和學習模式都
不足，於是創辦了藝廊“漢雅軒” 。時至今
述新思維時代下，人們應如何精明而實際
已被全盤西化。“那是1920年代中國最大的
天，漢雅軒已成為當代中國藝術家的曝光
地‘活着’。它的概念是提供一些非主流的
難題：我們應如何為經典學說定位？是教學
跳板，更肩負藝術教育的重任；張頌仁的
資訊，以及另類的生活模式。”張繼續道：
的中心嗎？但中國的經典學說並不等於文學
工作，亦不再是光買賣藝術品。“我在葵興
“而展覽的一大主張，是抗衡福特主義中貶
和歷史，否則儒家學說又該如何歸類？人人
開設了一個叫‘Hanart
低‘人類’重要性的理念和令員工疏離的機
都將儒學視為哲學的一種、又封孔子為宗教
間，現在那裏正舉行一個純觀賞、不買賣的
械化生產模式。布蘭德認為工作應該更人性
人物，但儒學從來不是一個宗教。若說中
展覽，展出多位中國和印度藝術家的作品。
化、更有滿足感，人類應直接地參與其中，
國文學，儒學又比文學多一點─中國的文
為準備這次展覽，兩年半前我把數位印度
以免世界繼續走向全機械化生產的歧路。”
學、經典學說和歷史是三位一體的；無奈到
藝術家送到上海，又把數位中國藝術家及一
但時代巨輪前進的方向，豈是人力所
了最後，這些經典被逐漸淘汰，但凡不符合
位台灣策展人送到印度，大家在異國文化裏
能操控？張頌仁以電腦的發明為例：“電腦
西方系統的就被刪走，多麼可惜又可笑！”
創作，促成了今次這個跨國界、跨文化的展
推動了‘信息民主’，也是反文化運動的象
“同樣的問題也出現在歐洲，只差在歐
覽。展覽的名字叫‘西天中土’，因為過去
徵。透過電腦，我們今天終於實現了信息、
洲更早被西化，令西化看似更‘合理’；但
十多廿年來中、印藝術家只在西方平台交匯
存檔和工作間的個人化。”他慨嘆：“諷刺
同樣的，是無數歐洲文化元素亦被西化大潮
過，我特意用了‘西天’這個古代對印度的
的是，我們也因此而變成每天工作24小時而
沖走。”張頌仁說：“幸好，不符合‘普遍
稱謂，象徵中國文化與鄰近國家文化的交
非8小時。”
Square’的藝術空
意識’的文化元素本就是藝術創作的靈感
融。這個交流計劃暨展覽對我來說是一個新
雖然反越戰乃時勢所趨，但張頌仁坦
泉源，於是這些被淘汰的文化元素，通統落
嘗試，叫我非常雀躍。”
言，他的反戰情緒並不如身旁的同學那樣高
在‘藝術’這個避風塘之內。在藝術的國度
“國際化”的藝術之外，張頌仁還與我
昂。“當年的美國大學生一畢業便須服役，
裏，所有不被納入現代知識範疇、源自傳統
們談到了“國際化”的中國酒。頻於出入世
沒參戰的我無法感同身受。我反而比較留
但未能成為傳統的東西，都能發芽、綻放、
界藝術交流活動的他瞭解，“中國人宴請國
心六、七十年代美國青少年的文化與權利覺
結果。是以，所有被文革和西化過程遺棄的
際賓客一直首選茅台，某種意義上茅台已
醒。”他指出：“青少年權利覺醒之所以深
東西，都能在藝術這個‘垃圾桶’找到自己
經是一種國際的酒。這可能源自它最原始的
深影響到我，可能是因為我們這一群在那年
的位置。”
氣質─酒的氣質孰優孰劣，就是看喝醉了
代剛屆成年的中國人，早就很注重個人的
張頌仁深信，隨着時間過去，藝術平台
權利─這一點從當年襲擊不同機構時中國
將成為解決中國文化問題的方案。“走向國
人比美國人行為更激烈，可見一斑。現在回
際化，意味着中國要摒棄大量自家文化的
創意澎湃的人，又怎會只有一個念頭？
想，中國的文革可能也是基於一種跟美國反
要素，以及打壓一些西方視為‘駭人’的
張頌仁近年來致力於儒家禮學的推廣和復
文化運動非常相似的、尋求徹底解放的虛想
文化。但大家有否想過，這些中國文化是
興。用他的話說，當代藝術是現在最時髦、
─文革也是一場青少年的革命，雖然中美
因為‘強’所以才駭人？我的使命，就是在
最生猛、最適合這個時代的文化表現。而
兩場革命的結果迥異，它們對技術專家治國
藝術平台上釋放這些被束之高閣的中國文
儒家禮學它已經生猛了兩千年，也生效了兩
學的意義亦大大不同。”
化。”
千年，只是在最近一百年人們把它放在了一
臨空觀己身
藝如人生樂無窮
在上海郊外的金澤運用傳統的建造工藝，復
“留美的體驗影響了我的一生。現在我無論
“國際化”這詞彙雖然抽象，但張頌仁相
原起一整座傳統的村落。最近更嘗試了拍
想什麼，都會自然地比較中西文化的觀點，
信，每一位有才華的藝家都應了解自己，
片：“最近嘉禮堂利用新媒體數字技術，對
從中生出一個角度、一些感悟，有點像一顆
這樣才能創作出舉世理解的東西。作為當代
記錄中國禮儀、禮制最詳盡、儒家十三經
衛星從高空鳥瞰地球一樣。”
中國藝術與國際觀眾之間的橋樑，他直言
之一的《儀禮》進行復原嘗試，已完成《士
會怎麼樣。誰都知道茅台喝後第二天不會頭 痛，可見其品質、氣質是最高的。”
邊。他創辦嘉禮堂，還原、梳理傳統禮制：
三年美國大學教育後，張頌仁意識到自
這個中間人不易為。“我不但要為國際觀眾
冠禮》3D錄像的拍攝。這嘗試絕對是史無
己大概要“惡補”中文，於是休學一年到香
尋找有趣的東西，更要以第一身的角色為本
前例又有意思，叫我廢寢忘餐、樂而忘憂
港大學修讀中國經典學說，結果，卻令他失
地觀眾群發掘有趣的東西；情況就像一個旅
呢！”
MOUTAI Magazine
21
people 人
人生苦短，勿喝劣酒 It wasn’t all that long ago that Watson’s Wine opened its first store in Central, Hong Kong. In a matter of just 15 years, the company has become the largest specialist wine retailer in the region with 26 stores, offering an extensive selection of fine wines, with vintages sourced directly from over 20 countries. Jeremy Stockman, Trading Director of Watson’s Wine, spoke to us about his life growing up with fine wine and Watson’s Wine’s keys to success.
22
MOUTAI Magazine
首店登陸香港中環不過 15年 光景，在這說長不長的一段 時間內，屈臣氏酒窖迅速冒 起為全港最大的精品美酒品 牌， 26家分店遍布各區，為 愛酒人士帶來林林總總頂級 佳釀和挑選自超過 20個國家 的陳酒。屈臣氏酒窖的靈魂 人物─貿易總監謝學文娓娓 道來他與葡萄酒之緣起，以 及品牌的成功竅門。 TEXT/文: TC Li
Photography/攝: Bluer
Translation/譯: 鄧美茵 Special Thanks/特別鳴謝: Watson’s Wine
A
s Trading Director of Watson’s Wine, Jeremy Stockman has an exceptional palate that enables
him to source the best wines from all over the world. And like many a fine things in the world, his distinctive palate was a rather long time in the making. “I grew up in a French restaurant in London, of which my father was the chef and owner. So from a very early age we’ve always had wine on the table, tasting it and appreciating it – we had the culture of well-cooked food and great wines to go with it. By the time I was a teenager, I was cooking in the kitchen and serving in the restaurant while tasting and understanding wine. Later when I went to university I worked at a wine shop, and by then I already had the rudimentary knowledge of wine – I could explain what is a Bordeaux, what is a Shiraz. My father, with a job that involved the palate, taught the understanding of flavours in us. Once I finished my degree, I went back to work at the wine shop and I never left.”
From One Wine Culture to Another With his love of wine, Stockman would probably have known that his career would be taking him all around the world. And it did. “I went to Australia for holiday in 1991, fell in love with the country and met my wife. We then came back to London for three years. When my wife became pregnant we decided Australia was a better place to bring up a child, so it was a natural time for me to come back to Australia and embrace its wine industry.” After 16 years in Sydney and Melbourne, working at Coles Group, majorly Vintage Cellars with a similar mode of operation to Watson’s Wine, Stockman came to Hong Kong in 2010 to continue his career in the wine industry. Having moved from Europe to the Asia-Pacific region, Stockman has been perceptive about the different wine cultures in these three places. “People in England are quite conservative in that they normally opt for the top-end, premium wines. But because, like Hong Kong, it is not a wine producer per se, England embraces great wines from everywhere, and it doesn’t
MOUTAI Magazine
23
people 人 have a loyalty to wines from a particular
is always seeking out the finest wines in
And not only that, staff members are taken
country. Australia, on the other hand, is a
the world for the company’s temperature-
along to wine trips to explore the places
wine producer. It’s quite parochial – most
controlled warehouses in France and
and understand about the wines made
Australians will tell you the greatest wine
Hong Kong, and selling them out. “You
there. Little wonder then that Watson’s
is from Australia! And when it looks at
can’t be a good buyer if you don’t sell,”
Wine has not only won the trust of the
European wines it tends not to look at
said Stockman. “We split our business
producers, but also the loyalty of its
Bordeaux, but wines from other places
between fine wines and agency brands.
customers too – with a large group of
such as Burgundy, Rhône and Spain, and
The Bordeaux system is one where you
loyal members in its Wine Club regularly
I think it’s because these styles of wine are
can’t buy directly from the chateaux but
buying wines from the company’s stores.
closer to the Australian style – lots of fruits
only through a négociant, so it’s all about
and flavours. In Hong Kong, people really
our relationships, and understanding
customer profiles, Watson’s Wine
appreciate the greatest here, whether in
which wines we want to stock. The
has been able to discern the changes
wine or other products. They appreciate
wines we buy in advance before they
in the wine consumption landscape.
luxury. And with the duty free, they can
are released, we will store them in our
“The biggest change among local
afford it. What amazes me most – and I
temperature-controlled warehouses once
Hong Kongers came when the wine
like the most about – here is that people
they are released. We also import some
duty was removed in 2008, although
have the greatest wines, and they open
exclusive brands, such as Jeffrey Grosset’s
a significant rise in consumption and
them and drink them as well. Which is
wines from Australia. To bring in these
purchase really came in late 2009,
different to England, which has many of
exclusive brands we need to travel around
and then it continued to rise. Hong
the world’s greatest wines but the wines
the world, visit these people and explain
Kong is considered among the wine
are sitting in cellars rather than being
why they should be with Watson’s.
world to be one of the greatest wine
drunk. Last week I was at a dinner where
Normally, the buyer has all the power and
centres in the world, which means
people brought along some of the greatest
he tells the producer what he wants, but in
more merchants from all over the
wines ever made, very old wines, and they
wine, because it’s a finite, fine product, we
world – the United Kingdom, France,
opened the wines and shared them with
as the buyer need to persuade them that
the United States, Italy and many
friends. The interesting thing is, people in
Watson’s is the right partner for them.”
more – are setting up offices in Hong
Hong Kong generally don’t drink a lot of
Which explains why, in this year
Kong to do business. Compared to
wine – people in Australia drink a lot more
alone, Stockman has been to France for
three years ago, we’re seeing more
– but they drink the best.”
five times, twice to Australia and New
mainland Chinese consumers today,
What Stockman has also noticed about
Zealand, and once to Spain; and next year
a sign that the sophistication of wine
the changing wine consumption pattern in
he will be going to Chile, Argentina, the
consumption in China is catching up
Hong Kong is that people are increasingly
United States, Germany, and Italy with
quickly. The mainland Chinese we
pairing western wines with Chinese
his team. “From the producers’ point of
mainly see at Watson’s live in Hong
cuisine. “Watson’s Wine has done 200
view, the first thing is trust. These wines
Kong, and they would buy wines and
events this year of different formats, among
are their babies, they are something
keep them at our cellars. They also tend
them are close to 100 dinners, and we tried
very precious to them. And so to the
to chase bigger brands a bit more.”
to do most of them with Asian cuisines,
producers, it’s more about whether we’re
because the wine producers want to see
taking care of their products properly than
Greatest Job in the World
their wines being drunk with local cuisines.
how much we’re selling their wines for.
Despite his packed work schedule, Stockman
Traditionally, western wines were paired
Quite often, the producers would come
exudes a sense of liveliness characteristic of
with western meals, but more and more
and visit Watson’s Wine’s stores. While
a person who truly loves his life. And that’s
we’re seeing people drinking western wine
the premium look and feel of the stores
because he does. “I’m told that I’ve got the
at Cantonese or Asian restaurants. I was at
is important, the producers would also
greatest job in the world. In a way it is true
a Chinese restaurant last night and the man
look at who else is represented by us –
because I indulge in my passion every day.”
sitting next to me had a bottle of Latour.
if they see we’re the agent for premium
And his life motto? “To paraphrase the great
Five years ago, that would have been a
products, they would know that we’re the
Len Evans, one of the wine authorities in
rarity, whereas today, I just thought, ‘That
right partner for them.” And the quality of
Australia, ‘Life is too short to drink bad
was nice!’”
staff matters too, naturally. All members
wine.’ And that’s absolutely right, because
of staff at Watson’s Wine are passionate
if you are going to drink one bottle of wine
wine enthusiasts trained at the Wine &
every day, for the rest of your life, every
Spirit Education Trust, which means they
bottle of bad wine you drink is a great
As the man who is responsible for ensuring
are equipped with the knowledge to offer
bottle of wine you’re not drinking.”
the company has the right stock, Stockman
the right recommendation for customers.
Travelling Around the World in the Name of Wine
24
And through its huge database of
MOUTAI Magazine
世
上每一種出類拔萃的美酒，都
到世界各地的入口酒，也就較少偏愛特定國
晶，作為買手，我必須扭盡六壬說服莊主，
必須經歷漫長的醞釀過程，屈
家的酒。反之，澳洲是著名的產酒國，當地
屈臣氏酒窖正是他們最佳的經銷夥伴。”
臣氏酒窖貿易總監謝學文今天
人的口味不問而知非常偏頗─多數澳洲人
正因如此，謝學文單在今年已飛往法
練就對葡萄酒非凡的鑑賞能力，也全靠自小
都會告訴你，最好的酒來自澳洲！即使要喝
國5次、澳紐2次、西班牙1次；下一年的行
的栽培與琢磨。“我出生於一個飲食世家，
歐洲酒，澳洲人都會棄波爾多而選勃艮地、
程亦早已編得密密麻麻，智利、阿根廷、
父親在倫敦開設一家法國餐廳並擔任主廚，
羅納河谷或西班牙，主因我想是後三者果香
美國、德國和意大利正等待著他和他的團
所以自有記憶開始，我家的餐桌上就有葡
宜人、層次豐富，跟澳洲酒非常相似。”謝
隊。“對釀酒商而言，信任就是一切。每一
萄酒了，我也從小學著去喝酒和品酒─我
學文指出：“在香港，無論是酒還是其他產
瓶酒都是他們的孩子，其價值不可言喻；他
家的文化，是‘食必有酒’，而且兩樣都要
品，香港人最喜歡，也因為零酒稅而負擔得
們關心的不是那瓶酒賣多少錢，而是我們會
‘好’。”謝學文回想道：“十多歲我已在
起，各種名牌頂級佳釀。我最欣賞的是，香
如何悉心又正確地照顧他們的出品。所以，
餐廳幫忙做
港人不光買，他們還真會把酒喝掉。這一
其實不少釀酒商都會親臨我們的分店，看看
菜和款客，
點跟英國人截然不同，英國人也買，但買了
屈臣氏酒窖是如何看待他們的寶貝。”謝學
同時也品
就放在酒窖，捨不得喝掉。上星期的一場晚
文莞爾：“除了店舖的外觀和氛圍必須高端
嘗了無數的
宴，出席者帶了好些年份很老很老、史上數
雅致，釀酒商還很在乎店內貨品的檔次─
酒，慢慢地
一數二的珍罕陳釀來吃飯，也是大大方方的
看到我們也代理其他優質精品酒，他們便
累積了豐富
開了瓶跟朋友分享。還有一點十分有趣，跟
明白屈臣氏酒窖是代理的不二之選。”不消
的酒知識。
豪飲的澳洲人不同，香港人喝得較少，但要
說，店員的質素亦非常關鍵。所有屈臣氏
讀大學時，
喝就喝‘最好的’。”
酒窖的店員都對葡萄酒充滿熱誠，並全部受
我到一家酒
謝學文還留意到，潮流瞬息萬變的
訓於英國烈酒教育信託基金會（WSET）課
窖打短工，
香港，近年愈來愈多人愛上以西方葡萄
程，具備豐富的品酒知識，能為顧客提供恰
憑著父親傳
酒配搭中國菜。“今年屈臣氏酒窖舉辦了
切的選酒建議。公司更定期為店員舉辦品酒
授的東西，
200場不同形式的大小活動，其中約100
團，讓他們親身踏足產酒地，了解自己銷售
那時我已能
場美酒晚宴我們都選了亞洲菜，因為釀酒
的酒的整個生產過程。難怪屈臣氏酒窖不但
詳細地解釋
商想看看他們的酒能如何與本地菜式擦出
贏得釀酒商的信任，更備受消費者信賴與愛
什麼是波爾
火花。傳統上，洋酒當配西菜，但今天
戴─品牌成立的“屈臣氏醇酒匯”會員者
多，什麼是
在粵菜或亞洲菜食府喝紅白酒可謂平常不
眾，不乏定期選購佳釀的忠實粉絲。
西拉。一畢
過。”他繼道：“就像昨晚我到一家中菜
從客戶的口味趨向，屈臣氏酒窖見證
業我就返回
廳吃飯，鄰桌的男士點了一瓶Latour（法
了香港酒業的變遷。“最大的改變，當數
那家酒窖工
國拉圖酒莊紅酒） ，這酒五年前還被視為
2008年香港政府實施零酒稅的政策。雖然
作，做到離
珍罕級的，但如今大家都不再為它大驚小
要待2009年年末，購買和飲用葡萄酒的人
開倫敦為
怪，我也只是暗忖了一句‘不錯！’”
數才開始大幅攀升，但自此品酒活動蔚然
止。”
成風。對業界來說，香港毫無疑問是全球
以酒之名行於地
最大的美酒中心之一，因此英、法、美、意
漫遊於酒文化之間
作為決定一個品牌的庫存種類的靈魂人物，
及其他國家的酒商紛紛來到這裏開辦生意。
每一個國家都有她的標誌美酒，貪杯之人，
謝學文總是停不下搜索的目光與步伐，務
對比三年前，現時中國顧客的數目也在不
天生注定會周遊列國。謝學文當然也不例
求為屈臣氏酒窖位於法國及香港的恆溫倉
斷增加，顯示內地的品酒文化正在健康地
外。“1991年我到澳洲旅行，便立即愛上這
庫嚴選世上最優質、而且“賣得出去”的
醞釀、成長。這群顧客大多是居港的內地
個國家─還有一位女生。”女生後來成了
酒品。“賣得出去，才叫好買手，”他闡釋
人，喜歡名聲較響的牌子，而且不但會買
謝太太，二人回倫敦住了三年。“內子懷孕
說：“我們的業務分精品酒及代理品牌兩
酒來喝，還會把酒存放在我們的酒窖內。”
時我們決定搬回澳洲，讓孩子在更好的環境
種。依照規定，要買波爾多酒，你不能直接
中長大。一切是那麼自然而然，彷彿澳洲和
從酒莊購買，只能透過批發商去買。換言
天下第一好工
她著名的釀酒業早就展開雙手，等待我投進
之，你不但要清楚了解自己想買什麼，更
雖然公務繁忙，但謝學文熱愛現時的生活
她懷抱裏。”於悉尼及墨爾本替著名的科爾
得跟這些批發商建立良好的關係。若買了未
模式。“有人說過我擁有世上最好的一份工
斯集團（音譯，一家與屈臣氏酒窖營運性質
公開發售的酒，我們會將之妥善存放於恆溫
作，這一點我絕無異議，因為能每天以興趣
非常相似的陳酒酒窖）工作了16年後，謝學
倉庫內，直至它面世為止。我們也進口一
為工作，實在是天大的福氣。”他又不忘分
文於2010年因著工作關係，搬到了一個與
些獨家品牌，如澳洲的傑夫里．格羅塞特。
享自己的座右銘：“借用澳洲葡萄酒業權威
老家甚有淵源的小城市：香港。
有趣的是，大部分貨品的買手都是主導買賣
倫．伊文斯的一句至理名言：‘人生苦短，
從歐洲來到亞太區，謝學文留意到三
的一方，可以直接告訴生產商自己要什麼，
勿喝劣酒’。如果每天只能喝一瓶酒，那麼
個地域各有不同的酒文化。“英國人十分保
但酒業的情況則完全相反！為了發掘這些獨
每多喝一瓶劣酒，你就少喝了一瓶好酒─
守，他們大多點選最高檔的酒。但跟香港
家品牌，我走遍世界各地，與莊主面對面傾
多麼不值！”
一樣，英國本身並無產酒，英國人常接觸
談─獨家品牌的葡萄酒都是限量的心血結 MOUTAI Magazine
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紅與黑
“These are not real liquor bottles, but a visual image as a result of alcoholic influence. In my creative process free of literal influence, I picked my favourite bottle to express my spiritual pursuit. In the simple repetitive process I embraced the nuances of all the experiences. It’s like the journey of life – it’s not the destination but the process that counts, as everything that happens during the process would always leave traces in our lives and reveal today in history.” – Hong Kong artist Ng Chung “它們已不是現實中的酒瓶子，而是酒精作用 下產生出來的視覺圖像。在棄文學性干擾的創 作過程中，借用我鍾愛的瓶子，表達自己的精 神追求。並在簡單的重複中，體驗每一次過程 中的微妙感受。如同人生旅行，重要的不是計 劃中的終點，而是在路上的過程，它們總會在 生命中留下痕跡，揭示曾經的存在。” —香港藝術家吳松
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耳目一新的創意酒饌
Complementary With its high alcohol content and long-lasting, prominent flavour, the Moutai liquor has often been the holy grail for those who attempt at a food menu that complements world-renowned liquors. So little is written about the taste and texture of the national liquor of China that the pursuit of the perfectly complementary food pairing menu is a much-welcome challenge that rests entirely in the hands of the chef. With over five decades of culinary experience combined, Ngai Hong-kin, Chef de Cuisine at Sha Tin 18, and Kelvin Lai, Pastry Chef at Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Sha Tin, have designed a four-course menu that complements the Moutai liquor. 茅台酒精濃度高、入口強烈帶勁、餘韻悠長，其別具一格的風味，愛酒人士 固然趨之若鶩，以此尊貴國酒入饌亦成為專業廚師最欣然接受的挑戰。 擁有超過50年經驗的凱悅酒店沙田18餐廳主廚倪康健，就聯同了酒店的餅 房主廚賴耀輝，以豐富的資歷和創意合作炮製了四道茅台中菜和西式甜品， 讓大家一睹這款揚威海外的中國白酒如何與中西美食配搭無瑕。 TEXT/文: TC Li
Photography/攝: Bluer
Art Direction/美指: Chloe Yip
Special Thanks/特別鳴謝: Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Sha Tin
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The Culinary Art of Complementing Moutai Liquor
the Korean glutinous rice cake because of
The strong-flavour approach was also
its tenderer texture, which makes thorough
adopted for the Wok-fried King Prawn,
cooking easier,” said Chef Ngai. “Culinary
Garlic, Preserved Black Bean, except that
At a quick tap on the gas lever, Chef Ngai
is an art that evolves with time. Now
this seafood dish was spiced up with
Hong-kin, Chef de Cuisine at Sha Tin 18, a
that we have access to a greater variety of
chilli slices. “Seafood and Moutai go well
restaurant specialised in Cantonese cuisine
food ingredients from different countries,
together as the liquor brings out the natural
at Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Sha Tin, sent
we can afford to improve our dishes with
sweetness of fresh seafood. But the taste of
the stove roaring away. Along the side of the
better ingredients – each ingredient plays
the dish must not be too bland or else it will
wok and in to the sizzling oil he gently slid
an important role in the holistic impression
be overwhelmed by the powerful flavour
the seasonal hairy crabs, halved and slightly
of a dish.” Which is why Chef Ngai only
and texture of the liquor, hence the chilli in
coated in corn flour to keep the delicious roe
sourced the best hairy crabs for this dish,
the prawn and ginger and dark soy sauce in
intact. Once the hairy crabs were cooked
because ‘origins matter’. For the Wok-fried
the hairy crab to put the two seafood dishes
and set aside, Chef Ngai, after a string of
Hairy Crab with Glutinous Rice Cake, the
on level ground with the liquor.”
seamless movements that saw him draining
hairy crabs are seasoned with dark soy sauce
With a long-arm ladle of boiling hot oil
the oil, washing the wok with water before
and sautéed with ginger and spring onion,
in his right hand, Chef Ngai deftly poured
pouring in another ladle of oil, began to
resulting in a dish that has a pronounced
the oil onto a whole chicken to lock the
cook slices of glutinous rice cake, with a
aroma and flavour, but one that doesn’t
moisture inside, before browning the skin
generous drizzle of oyster sauce. “I prefer
overpower the sweetness of the hairy crabs.
of the chicken with dark soy sauce. “As the
Chef Ngai Hong-kin, Chef de Cuisine at Sha Tin 18
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chicken is braised with pineapple slices, the
the only difference is that nowadays we
was quite something, now I come to think
dark soy sauce will mellow the sweetness
have a greater variety of wines and liquors
of that,” recalled Chef Kelvin.
and sourness of the pineapple, and what
available,” said Chef Ngai.
you get is a savoury dish with a hint of
Yet despite their slightly different career paths, both chefs are in the same
umami, the pineapple slices completely
Success in the Kitchen
soaking up the essence of the chicken.
So much has changed during Chef Ngai’s
chef. “Happy customers are the motivation
The soy sauce-infused sauce of the Braised
three decades in the kitchen. “When I
for success, and I’m sure Chef Kelvin
Chicken with Pineapple, while being similar
became a kitchen assistant at the age of
would agree with me,” said Chef Ngai,
to the soy sauce-fragrance of the Moutai
12, it was a time when job opportunities
who considers himself a successful chef as
liquor, is much thinned down throughout
were few and they were mostly obtained
his job enables him to feed and support his
the cooking process that it complements but
through personal network. Cooking for
family. “To achieve customer satisfaction,
not override the liquor.”
me was a practical skill – at least I was able
we have to learn from experiences and
But savoury dishes aren’t the only
to feed myself, which was very important
improve our culinary skills with time to
gastronomic match for the Moutai liquor –
in the late 1970s, still a few years before
accommodate diners’ various tastes and
as Pastry Chef Kelvin Lai discovered with his
Hong Kong’s economy would take off for
needs. It’s important for a chef to stay open-
Caramelised Apricot Chocolate Cake, so are
the better. As kitchen assistants we worked
minded to innovative ideas to constantly
desserts. The apricots are soaked in Moutai
very hard – 15 hours a day, all year round,
reignite that passion.” And just as crucial
liquor to balance out the bitterness of the
except 1 September and the four Chinese
is teamwork, according to Chef Kelvin. “I
72% cocoa dark chocolate used for the cake,
New Year holidays. We were always the
was fortunate to have received excellent
creating a dessert that is rich in texture while
first to come in to the kitchen to do all
mentoring from my mentors, but without
tantalising the palate with its myriad flavours.
the preparation work before the chefs
the dedicated teamwork I wouldn’t have
came in, and the last to leave to clean up
achieved what I have done today.”
Wine and Dine Culture
mind in terms of the keys to success as a
the place after the chefs had left. We had
The four-course complementary menu
Throughout their decades of culinary careers,
no employment benefits whatsoever, but
for the Moutai liquor was the end product
both Chef Ngai and Chef Kelvin have
we showed the chefs our determination,
of years of trials and errors, and hours of
experimented and cooked with different
hoping that one day we would be allowed
actual cooking time. But as is self-evident
types of wines and liquors. And the reason
near the wok station and actually started
in the Moutai liquor, aged at least for four
is simple: food and wine have long been
cooking.”
years each, the greatest things of life come
inextricably tied. “Wine and liquors enhance
A little over a decade later, in 1990,
the ambience and lift the mood, which is
Chef Kelvin entered the pastry industry as a
why every item on the menu at Sha Tin 18
pastry apprentice preparing simple pastries
is paired with Chinese or western wines.
and cakes for in-flight meals. But it wasn’t
The Moutai liquor is one that complements
long before he could actualise his potential
the food, for instance, whether for big or
as a pastry chef at some of the city’s top-
small gatherings, and it surely does lighten
notch hotels. “The first pastry I can call my
the mood at the dining table in the Chinese
own is the birthday cake I made for Prince
culture. The great things about the Moutai
Charles when he visited Hong Kong. That
with patience, perseverance, and time.
liquor – as well as many other Chinese baijiu (distilled liquor) – are that it is fragrant with a long-lasting aftertaste, and it doesn’t give you headache however much you have had to drink. The art of food/wine pairing has been celebrated for thousands of years; Pastry Chef Kelvin Lai
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Among the modern skyscrapers lining the waterfront of Huangpu, Shanghai, acquiring an unassuming and immovable presence is the building that was once the headquarters of the Shanghai branch of The Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation (HSBC). Despite the passage of time, where historical glory found sanctuary in the grey robust outer walls, this building remains widely acclaimed to be one of the most spectacular structures ever built. 在現代摩天大樓高聳入雲的上海黃埔江畔，原滙豐 銀行大樓顯得低調而沉穩。歷史的榮光隱入灰色、莊 重的牆體，歷經風雨變遷，它依然被公認為最漂亮的 建築之一。 TEXT/文: Konzen Hou
image/圖: ImagineChina 東方IC caltlier001 Translation/譯: TC Li
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etiquette 禮
12 on The Bund Standing at 12 East-1 Zhongshan Road, home to an exotic building cluster, is the building that was once the headquarters of the Shanghai branch of HSBC. In all its formidable form and unique flair, the building is lauded as the greatest masterpiece in contemporary China’s classical architectures. Called ‘the most luxurious building from the Suez Canal to the Bering Strait’, the previous HSBC headquarters was constructed between 5 May 1921 and 23 June 1923 – a construction project that spanned 25 months, 17 acres, with a gross floor area of 23,415 squaremetres. It was inarguably the biggest bank structure in the Far East back in those days, and in fact, only the Bank of Scotland in Edinburgh was any match. Few can epitomise the prowess of the HSBC in that bygone era better than this building. The main structure is five storeys, the central section seven storeys, with one-and-a-half storey in the basement. Among the 28 13-metre Italian natural marble pillars in the main trading hall, four were hewn from whole blocks of marble (there are only six cylindrical pillars of this type in the world, and the other two are at the Louvre Museum in Paris). With a steel lattice with brick filling and a granite exterior, the main structure is like an imperishable castle that exudes a sense of security – precisely what a bank structure desires. Over the years the old HSBC headquarters has witnessed the city’s development and transformation. When HSBC pulled out its Shanghai operation in 1955, the Shanghai Municipal Government made the building its office building and renamed it ‘The People’s Government of the Municipality of Shanghai Building’, with the subsidiary building used to house the Municipal Archives from 1956 onwards. While HSBC expressed intention of buying back the building in the 1990s, cost issue meant the purchase never happened. Through an auction, the Shanghai Pudong Development Bank obtained the right to use the building and has been using it as its headquarters since.
Traces of History Out of feng shui concern, two bronze lions were commissioned from the United Kingdom at the time of construction, to be placed outside the front doors as guardian spirit. Weighing 2,250 pounds each, the two lions – one with its mouth open and the other closed – symbolised the bank’s lending and borrowing of capital. As the bank’s first pair of lions, these two are out of production as the bronze casts were destroyed after the lions were made. In 1935, the second pair of lions were cast according to the first pair, and were placed at the bank’s Hong Kong headquarters on Des Voeux Road Central in 1935, hence the lions on the Hong Kong banknotes issued by HSBC. Not surprisingly, the bronze lions were regularly mentioned in memoirs of The Bund, and HSBC’s Shanghai branch has long been endearingly called the ‘Lion Bank’, with passers-by’s touching of the lions soon becoming a tradition. For years, the shiny bronze claws of the lions tell a story with captivating twists and turns. In 1941 the Japanese Occupation of Shanghai (Shanghai International Settlement) and Hong Kong began. In a time of austerity, Japan attempted to transport the two pairs of lions back to the country
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A Secret Waiting to be Unveiled for Half a Century Near the ceiling of the octagonal entrance hall of the former Shanghai HSBC headquarters were originally eight mosaic murals by Italian craftsmen. Yet ‘alterations’ were made when the entrance hall was used to receive the Soviet navy fleet as it visited Shanghai in 1956. Suggestions were made to chip away the mosaics’ tiles because the murals were overly commercialised considering the social situation then, but Chen Zhi, then-Director of Shanghai Institute of Architectural Design & Research, suggested it would take less work to cover the murals up, knowing that would preserve the artwork. With the approval from the municipal government, the murals were covered up and have disappeared since. As if a blessing in disguise, the cover-up has saved the murals from irrevocable damage during the Cultural Revolution. But that was not the end of the story. When the Shanghai Pudong Development Bank began its renovation in November 1997, something suggested there was more underneath the cream paint on the ceiling of the octagonal hall. And so a secret that had been sleeping for half a century was awaken. With the Shanghai Pudong Development Bank’s half-year funded restoration effort, the murals, which had been kept in the dark for four decades, re-emerged with a new breath of life, garnering undivided attention for its exquisiteness and sheer scale, over 20 metres high up in the air. to be melted for the valuable bronze. Meanwhile, the pair of lions at
Spanning approximately 200 square-metres, comprising
HSBC’s Hong Kong headquarters, as well as the statues of Queen
hundreds of thousands of colourful mosaic tiles, the murals
Victoria and Sir Thomas Jackson, the third Chief Manager of HSBC,
vividly depict mythical gods and creatures in delicate colours
were transported from Hong Kong to be stored at a warehouse in
and rich layers.
Yokohama, Japan. Fortunately, however, the statues were discovered
Painted in azure blue, the dome depicts a myth with Apollo,
by the US military in 1945 and ordered to be sent back to Hong Kong.
Selene and Demeter; the second layer depicts the 12 zodiac signs
While they were only sawed off and not removed by the
in a style that reminds the viewer of the greatness of the universe.
Japanese army during wartime, the pair of lions at HSBC’s Shanghai
At the core of the murals are the background information and
headquarters were removed by the Shanghai Artefact Administration
appearance of HSBC’s eight branches in Shanghai, Hong Kong,
Board and stored in Shanghai Farce Troupe’s warehouse during the
London, Paris, New York, Tokyo, Bangkok, and Kolkata back
Cultural Revolution. It wasn’t until 1980 when the lions were put in
then. What intrigued the writer were the English words written
the safe hands of the Shanghai Museum. When the Shanghai Pudong
between every two cities, in an order that reads: ‘ALL’, ‘MEN’,
Development Bank obtained the right to use the former HSBC
‘ARE’, ‘BROTHERS’, ‘WITHIN’, ‘THE’, ‘FOUR’, ‘SEA’, obviously
headquarters in 1997, its initial plan was for the lions to be returned to
derived from the Chinese proverb with the same meaning. Such is
the front doors, but what happened rounds of deliberation later was
a line that came rather ironic back in a time when foreign countries
for two new bronze lions to be made, according to the original lions,
were scrambling for a piece of China. Yet fast forward to today,
funded by the Shanghai Pudong Development Bank. If you happen
when globalisation prevails, Shanghai, now a metropolitan, is
to pass by this pair of replicas, you would notice that they are the
the best proof of this English translation of the Chinese proverb,
exact duplicates of the original lions, including the traces of damage
because it epitomises the virtues of open-mindedness and
by the Japanese army.
accommodation.
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外灘12號 在被譽為萬國建築博覽群的外灘，中山東一路12號，原上海 滙豐銀行大樓就坐落於此。它以非凡的氣勢、獨特的風姿被認 為是中國近代西方古典主義建築的最高傑作。 這座“從蘇伊士運河到遠東白令海峽最講究的建築”，從 1921年5月5日正式開工，到1923年6月23日封頂竣工，歷時 25個月，佔地17畝，建築面積23,415平方米。在建成的相當 長一段時間裏，它無可爭議地作為遠東最大的銀行建築而存 在。事實上，在當時世界範圍，也只有愛丁堡的蘇格蘭銀行大 樓可與之媲美。 沒有什麼能比這樣一座龐然大物，更能象徵那個時代滙豐 銀行的雄厚實力。大樓主體高五層，中央部分高七層，另有地 下室一層半。大堂內28根高13米的意大利天然大理石柱中， 有4根是用整塊大理石雕琢而成。這樣的圓柱全世界也只有6 根，另外2根在法國巴黎的羅浮宮。鋼框架結構，磚塊填充的 主體，外貼花崗岩石材，就像一座堅不可摧的城堡，使儲戶產 生安全和放心感。對於銀行建築最期望的效果，顯然，它全部 滿足了。 在漫長的歲月裏，滙豐銀行大樓伴隨著時代變遷，見證了 這座城市的發展與變化。1955年，滙豐銀行撤出上海，上海 38
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市政府決定將該大樓用作市府辦公大樓，進駐後將其改名“上
1941年日本佔領上海（公共租界）和香港，在1943年
海市人民政府大樓”，副樓則在1956年改為上海市檔案館。上
物資緊張時，曾試圖將兩地的銅獅運至日本回爐取銅。滙豐
世紀90年代，滙豐銀行曾有意回購這座見證自身榮耀的建築，
在香港的兩尊銅獅連同維多利亞女王和滙豐銀行大班昃臣
但最終因為價錢原因而告失敗。之後，上海浦東發展銀行於
（Sir Thomas Jackson）的銅像被運至橫濱，存放於碼頭倉
1996年通過競拍，獲得了大樓入住權，並將其作為總部駐地沿
庫。幸運的是，1945年被美軍發現，在麥克阿瑟的命令下得
用至今。
以運回香港。 滙豐在上海的兩尊銅獅遭日軍鋸割，但沒有被拆
命運的鋸痕
走。1966年文化大革命爆發後，這兩尊銅獅被上海市文管會
這座大樓興建時，出於風水考慮，向英國訂購了兩尊青銅獅，
移至上海滑稽劇團倉庫，1980年代轉交上海博物館。1997年
安放於大樓正門前，作為鎮獸。
浦東發展銀行獲得滙豐銀行大樓的使用權後，曾希望將原獅移
兩尊銅獅每隻重2,250磅，一隻張嘴一隻閉口，寓意銀行
回銀行大門前，後經協商，由浦東發展銀行出資仿照原樣鑄造
吐、納資金，獅子鑄成後，銅模就被銷毀，所以，第一對銅獅
了兩尊新銅獅。鑄造過程中，出於對歷史的尊敬，原日軍破壞
就成了絕版珍品。1935年滙豐仿照這兩尊銅獅又鑄造了兩尊
的鋸痕也一併保留呈現，如果你經過這對銅獅，便能看見這段
獅子，安放於香港德輔道中（Des Voeux Road Central）香港
歷史。
滙豐總行大廈前。時至今日，在滙豐銀行印發的港幣中，你會 發現它們的身影，而它們的原形正是來源於此。 滙豐銀行時代的青銅獅子被許多關於外灘的回憶錄所提 及，上海滙豐銀行也因其銅獅子形象深入民心而又被稱為“獅
半個世紀的秘密 在滙豐銀行大樓八角形門廳上方，原有八幅由意大利工匠用馬 賽克鑲嵌製作完成的大型壁畫。
子銀行” 。路過的人都會不自禁地去摸獅爪，這個外灘傳統一
1956年蘇聯艦隊造訪上海，為了借用大廳接見外賓，要
直延續至今，獅爪上閃耀的金黃銅色，彷彿述說著它曲折生動
對原有的裝飾物做適當改造。基於當時的背景因素，有人認
的傳奇故事。
為，這一大塊壁畫太商業化，太西方化，建議敲掉。上海民用 建築設計院的陳植院長知道馬賽克是經過特殊處理不會腐蝕， 因此主張以刷上塗料代替敲掉。隨後經市政府批准，壁畫遂遭 塗料覆蓋，從此銷聲匿跡。命運似乎開了一個玩笑，因禍得福 的是讓它從此躲過了日後文革的浩劫，避免了滅頂之災。 1997年11月，浦發銀行在對大樓進行裝修時，隱約發現 八角廳中奶油色的塗層下面似乎還隱藏著什麼，由此，揭開了 這個沉睡了半個世紀的秘密。浦東發展銀行出資對其進行精 心的整理與修復，半年之後，當這組湮沒40年之久的壁畫以 全貌如神話般重現在世人面前，全社會的目光與熱情被點燃， “世紀壁畫”的精美及規模令人震撼，在20多米高的穹頂， 光彩奪目。 這組鑲嵌畫總面積約200平方米，由幾十萬塊彩色馬賽克 鑲拼而成，無論是神話人物形象，還是動物形態都栩栩如生， 色彩細膩柔和、富有層次。 頂部以純淨的天藍鋪底，描繪了由太陽神、月神和豐收 女神構成的神話故事；第二層鑲嵌著遙遠天空中的黃道十二 星座，所呈現的幽遠之感，讓人不禁聯想起銀河的浩瀚與深 邃；接下來是整個鑲嵌畫的核心，面畫分別是當時滙豐銀行 在上海、香港、倫敦、巴黎、紐約、東京、曼谷、加爾各答 8個城市分行的建築風貌與背景。讓我感興趣的是寫在每兩個 城市之間的英文單詞，循序依次是：“ALL”、 “MEN”、“ARE”、 “BROTHERS” 、 “WITHIN” 、“THE” 、 “FOUR” 、 “SEA” ，顯然， 此句的含義取自中國古訓“四海之內，皆兄弟也”。在那樣一 個時代，一個外資機構把這樣的期望鐫於牆壁，多少顯得有些諷 刺。然而在全球一體化的今天，在國際都市上海，城市的發展卻 為這句中國古訓做出了最好的註解，開放與包容是它新的時代特 徵。 MOUTAI Magazine
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Drinking Culture in a Glass
淺酌細品 杯中文化
It is hard to know as a consumer whether the many new shapes of glasses that appear regularly for different types of alcoholic beverage are really necessary, or sales-driven. Certainly, the most prominent of all drinks to devise special shapes is western-style wine. If you attend a formal dinner anywhere in the world, the grander it is, the more glassware. Far from it being a case of a slightly larger glass for red, as I remember it in my childhood in upscale restaurants (and even then, decent establishments often used the same for any wine), today’s top-end restaurants and bars distinguish wine type within white, rosé and red. 如果不是專業人士，有時真的很難得知市面上五花八門的各式酒杯到底是為 了提升品酒體驗，還是純屬商業推廣。無可否認，現時大部分酒杯都是為西 方酒而設。無論身處何方，愈正式、隆重的晚宴，所用的酒杯種類便愈多。 跟我的童年回憶 （無論餐廳多有名，喝的是哪種酒，都只是用一隻比水杯大一點的杯）截然 不同的是，今時今日的高檔食府及酒吧，必定 區分白酒、玫瑰酒及紅酒所用的酒杯。 TEXT/文: Andrew Dembina
image/圖: Jorge Royan Atoma
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Specially Designed for Appreciation Champagne glasses used to be very wide until the end of the 1970s when it was deemed that the flute-shaped glasses seen today best preserve and show off the streams of bubbles and adequately allow the aroma to travel to the nose of the drinker, while sipping. Why then, are many spirits glasses straight, rather than round and bulbous, which is believed to accentuate the bouquet or the ‘nose’ as it is called of a drink? And do shot glasses miss the opportunity to deliver more of an intense nose to the drinker? Generally speaking, the argument for glass shape differences is that alcoholic drinks can vary in their appreciation. A wine glass opening should allow the drinker’s nose to fit into it, as the aromatic quality of wine is considered essential to the experience. Less so for stronger spirits, where aroma contains concentrated alcohol fumes. Nicolas Deneux, hotel sommelier and Assistant Food and Beverage Director at Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, had this to say on the shape of glassware: “Glass shape is crucial in wine or beverage tasting. Depending on the alcohol strength, fruit component and structure, different shapes are appropriate. For instance, for a pinot noir wine – which is very fruity, a large glass will enhance the fruit and volume of the wine. In order to realise the difference between different glasses, I suggest tasting the same wine in two or three different glasses to see how different the wine becomes.” On the subject of spirits, Deneux said,
or a wine glass so the oak aromas can express themselves. Gin, vodka, non-oaked grappas and others can be served in smaller glasses. “Moutai does not need a big glass. The main point is the strength of the product, which can be expressed in a small glass.” Increasingly, small production beer – often called micro-brew or craft beer – is being served in bulbous glasses, as Belgian high-alcohol ones have been for some time. To learn more, I spoke to Toby Cooper, Publican of The Globe pub in Hong Kong, which carries many of these types. “Beer is exactly the same principle as wine, a larger wine style glass lets you see the clarity and colour better, lets the beer breathe and therefore releases more aroma,” he said. “That’s also why beer should be drunk from glasses, never out of bottles.” Some alcohol is enjoyed from metal or ceramic cups – the latter is very much a part of Japanese sake culture; and Germany sometimes uses ceramic tankards – mugshaped vessels – for lager beer, as France does for apple cider. Asked about any effect from these materials, Deneux said, “Ceramic does not give any particular taste. However, metal can give a very acidic taste to wines and to a few spirits.” Cooper added that he doesn’t appreciate the taste of beer from metal tankards. “There is a taste like metal polish to me – though maybe it’s just my imagination.” There are reasons why certain glasses or cups, made with different materials in different shapes, are used to serve certain alcoholic beverages. Appreciate the wisdom next time you have your Belgian beer in
“Spirits such as Cognac or Armagnac –
bulbous glass, French apple cider in a mug,
mostly aged in barrels – need bigger glasses
or Moutai liquor in a small glass.
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muse 樂
Moutai 雞尾酒杯裏的茅台 in a Cocktail Glass Be it before, during or after a meal, alcoholic beverages of various kinds are enjoyed by wine and liquor enthusiasts for their favourite poison’s alluring taste and texture, at myriad occasions worldwide. Alongside the bartenders who shake and mix your pick-me-ups such as Cosmopolitan and Kamikaze, there are also those called molecular mixologists, who seek to investigate and utilise the physical and chemical transformations of food and alcohol ingredients with techniques using foams, liquid nitrogen, and solidifying liquids, to enrich the drinker’s experience through the delivery of new flavours and textures, as well as visual effects. With dried chrysanthemum tea buds, slow-cooked ‘tea cordial’, and his house-made ‘Earl Grey Caviar’, Antonio Lai, award-winning mixologist and author, whipped up three Moutaiinfused cocktails with unique characters, exuding an Oriental flair in western cocktail glasses. 44
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由餐前、用膳期間到飯後，無論置身哪一國度，只要把酒，就能談心。坐在專業調酒師跟前 的酒吧枱，牽引人心的不單是那儼如藝術演出般的動作，和那幾乎有治癒力、冰塊敲在金屬 調酒器壁的清脆聲響，雞尾酒的材料，往往更令酒客萬分期待。分子調酒學正正由此誕生， 一群勇於創新的調酒師經過悉心鑽研，利用泡沫、液化氮和液體固化的技術，解拆和重組美 酒與食材的物理形態和化學結構，製成各種疑幻似真、味道叫人始料未及又外觀精緻的分子 雞尾酒。本文專訪了國際得獎無數、廣獲傳媒追訪的“香港分子調酒之父”Antonio Lai，讓 大家一覷他如何完美融合茅台與其獨創的“慢煮菊露”及招牌“格雷伯爵茶魚子醬”，創出 三款別開生面的雞尾酒，讓悠香綿長的東方風情縈繞在曼妙的酒杯裏。 TEXT/文: TC Li
Photography/攝: Bluer
Art Direction/美指: Chloe Yip
translation/譯: 鄧美茵
Special Thanks/特別鳴謝: Antonio Lai at Quinary
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muse 樂 the three Moutai-infused cocktails was, like many other of his creations, ‘fun and exciting’. And fun it is, when the rich and flavoursome Moutai liquor is brought into a world of molecular experimentation. “Moutai is an iconic liquor that is parallel to esteemed social status in mainland China. It is widely known for its soy sauce-like aroma, which, in my opinion, goes well with local Chinese ingredients such as wolfberry and ginger, whose respective slight sourness and spiciness perfectly balance the strong and voluminous flavour of the liquor to create delicious cocktails.” Understanding that the Moutai liquor is the result of a craftsmanship that has undergone thousands of years of evolution, Antonio decided the only cocktail that can match the liquor would be something that requires a similar amount of labour and technique, like a molecular cocktail. And the mixologist admitted the creation of the Moutai-infused cocktails was not without its challenges. “With respect to this quintessentially Chinese liquor, I decided on mixing it with the Chinese tea. I experimented with different types of Chinese tea, from Tie Guan Yin to Pu’er, but their flavours are too strong and colours too dark. I also sourced quite a few kinds of chrysanthemum, both fresh and dried, and finally decided on the dried chrysanthemum buds which have a more concentrated flavour.” And with that, Antonio created three light, refreshing and balanced cocktails with Asian influences – chrysanthemum and tea. For lighter drinkers Antonio recommends ‘Saucy Lemon’, a drink with a distinctive sweet, soy sauce fragrance from the Moutai liquor (43% alcohol content), and
“I
t all started from my discovery of a book called Barchef & Molecular Mixologist by Dario Comini when I was in Italy five years
ago,” said award-winning mixologist and founder of Hong Kong cocktail bar Quinary, Antonio Lai, as he recalled the moment he became intrigued by molecular mixology, the cocktail version of molecular gastronomy. “The book was in Italian but I was totally mesmerised by the visuals. Through online research, self study and experimentation, I managed to master the basics and continued to explore this fascinating aspect of mixology.”
Molecular Science’s Interpretation of Moutai To this man who embraces mixology because it is a playground for unlimited creativity, creating
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a refreshing taste, thanks to the tea cordial. To make the tea cordial, Antonio has especially slow-cooked o
oolong and water at 62 C for two hours, and the result was a tea-flavoured liquid that is slightly syrupy in texture and taste. The two hours-plus of effort was well worth it as it was also used to add breadth to ‘Walking on Petals’. The tea cordial was fast-infused in a siphon with dried chrysanthemum buds and Moutai liquor (53% alcohol content). Once the foamy liquid was poured into the glass, Antonio mixed it with soda water and a little more tea cordial. “This cocktail is fairly easy on the palate while retaining that inimitable aroma of the Moutai liquor, complemented by the tea cordial. To produce a more ‘masculine’ version of this cocktail, I simply need to take out the soda water from the recipe and create the cocktail with carbonation, resulting in a
cocktail that is more pronounced in the texture and
wines and liquors, it’s just a matter of whether the
taste of the Moutai liquor.”
wine and liquor is consumed before, during of after
Then, into a round, wide-brimmed cocktail
the meal. In Italy, for instance, there are the aperitivo
glass, Antonio spooned the house-made Earl Grey
before the meal to whet the appetite and wines
Caviar – little spheres of Earl Grey jelly made by a
consumed during the meal; in Australia, it’s almost
molecular technique called ‘spherification’. “This one
common sense to have wines to complement the
is called ‘Elderflower Allure’,” said the mixologist as
meal; in Mexico, people simply love their cocktails.
the fragrance of the Moutai liquor became airborne
And then there are the countries who have their
while he poured jigger after jigger of ingredients
national wines or liquors: Russian vodka, Japanese
into the shaker – lemon juice, elderflower cordial,
sake, and Chinese baijiu, in particular the Moutai
apple juice, and Moutai liquor (43% alcohol
liquor. Wines and liquors, in a nutshell, are what
content). “While the apple juice lightens up the
complete a dining experience.”
texture and taste of the Moutai liquor, the lemon
juice helps preserve and retain the tartness of the
born is the increasing need for innovative ways to
elderflower cordial so that it can freshen up the
appreciate good-old traditions. As Antonio would
cocktail while instilling some floral fragrance.”
admit, the biggest challenge for creating the Moutai-
“Like Brothers and Sisters”
As modern-day people’s lifestyles evolve also
infused cocktails would be changing the drinking habit or behaviour from serving straight-up to
As a mixologist whose career and continuous pursuit
cocktails. “Introducing a new drinking ritual, which
of knowledge on mixology have taken him all
has rooted for so many years in the minds and hearts
around the world, Antonio likened the relationship
of consumers, will not be happening overnight. Yet
of food and wine to ‘brothers and sisters’. “Every
it is always a good idea to offer varieties and add a
culture in the world has a romantic relationship with
twist to the classic liquor.” MOUTAI Magazine
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muse 樂
“一
切從我五年前發現了一本書開
過歲月千錘百煉的美酒，Antonio認為，只有準繩度
始。”在國際賽屢獲殊榮、創辦
和藝術性同樣追求完美的分子雞尾酒，才堪匹配。
香港首間分子雞尾酒吧Quinary的
他又分享了創作茅台雞尾酒的過程：“茅台是中國最
Antonio，娓娓道出與分子調酒學如何結緣。他講的
具標誌性的烈酒，所以我決定用中國茶來做酒基。
是意大利調酒大師達廖．科米尼的著作《Barchef
不過試驗了鐵觀音、普洱等的多種中國茶後，我發
&
Mixologist》（直譯“酒廚與分子調酒
現要不茶味太濃，要不茶色太深。我也買了數種菊
師”），書中闡釋了如何將分子料理技巧，巧妙地運
花，新鮮的、乾的也有，最後我選用了蜜味濃郁的
用到調酒之上。“雖然這本書以意大利文撰寫，我卻
胎菊（花蕾未全開時摘下的頂級杭白菊）。”
Molecular
為之深深傾倒，還把所有圖片牢牢記住。經過一番網
一酒、一茶，Antonio由此創作了三款別具東方
上搜尋、自學和實驗，我終於掌握了基本技巧，並以
風味的分子雞尾酒。第一款是淺酌尤佳的“柔醬蜜
此為基礎，繼續勇闖分子調酒學的世界，創製多款開
意”，起用酒精濃度43%的茅台與Antonio以烏龍茶
拓酒客視野的酒品。”
於攝氏62度慢煮兩小時而成的茶露，交融成醬香茶 香互相輝映的清新飲料，不但茶香懾人，更添上一
分子雞尾酒的跨界
第二款為“花間漫步”，同樣採用茶露，不過今
一如其他由他一手打造的創意雞尾酒，今次把醇厚
次是將胎菊及酒精濃度53%的茅台一同放入虹吸管
甘冽的茅台嫁接到調酒遊戲的世界裏，是一種令人
急速浸泡，製成泡沫豐富的菊露，和以梳打水及額
興奮的跨界，正中他下懷。“貴為‘國酒’，茅台在
外的一點菊露。“這款雞尾酒幽香宜人，散發淡淡茅
中國是一種地位超然的佳釀，以其只此一家的‘醬
台醬味，並以菊露錦上添花，特別容易獵取女性酒
香’馳名。我認為醬香與多種中國食材十分對味，
客的芳心。若想‘男人味’重一點，只須剔走梳打
例如枸杞和薑的酸辛，恰恰能平衡這種強烈馥郁的
水並改用碳化法來製作菊露泡沫，即可嘗出更鮮明
酒香，變出味覺平衡、層次豐富又令人印象深刻的
的茅台個性。”
雞尾酒。”
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絲糖漿般的淡甜與濃稠，蕩人心腸。
對Antonio而言，調酒學是一個了無邊際的遊樂場。
第三款是“茅香接骨木”，特色是改用寛圓的雞
中國的釀酒歷史很悠久，茅台酒的釀造工藝歷經
尾酒杯和Antonio獨家製作的格雷伯爵茶魚子醬（以
了上千年的演變，如此蘊藏了無數釀酒師心血、經
球化技術製成的茶味啫喱顆粒）。在裊裊茅台香升
Walking on Petals
Walking on Petals
花間漫步
花間漫步
起之際，Antonio一邊搖着調酒器一邊講解道：“這
酒、進餐時再喝葡萄酒；澳洲人喜歡以酒伴餐，程度
款酒用了檸檬汁、接骨木花露、蘋果汁及酒精濃度
幾達沒有酒的一頓不能算是圓滿；墨西哥人則無雞尾
43%的茅台。蘋果汁能平衡茅台的濃烈，而檸檬汁
酒不歡。還有各款能代表國家的酒：俄羅斯伏特加、
則能凸顯接骨木花露的酸度，同時令整杯酒添上清
日本清酒，還有中國白酒之王茅台。換言之，每一場
香芬芳的氣息。”
盛宴體驗，都必須有佳釀的扶持，方算十全十美。” 隨着時代的進步，現代人的生活模式不斷進化，
“相親相愛”的美酒佳肴
在追先求新之際，不少人亦學習重新欣賞古老傳
“求變”是每一位成功調酒師的特質，因此Antonio經
統。Antonio認為，創作茅台雞尾酒的關鍵在於要改
常周遊列國，體驗不同國家的飲食文化。走遍世界的
變大眾的喝酒習慣，以及酒吧只供應普通雞尾酒的
他認為，食物與酒的關係就像“手足”一樣─密不
慣例。“消費者根深蒂固的習慣，不會一下子突然改
可分。“世上每一種文化，都跟美酒有着一段浪漫親
變。將經典烈酒加以創新、改造和變化，不失為建立
密的關係，最大的差別不過是到底在餐前、餐間還是
一種嶄新喝酒模式的好辦法。”
餐後喝酒罷了。譬如說，意大利人會在餐前飲用開胃
Saucy Lemon
Elderflower Allure
柔醬蜜意
茅香接骨木
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Sojourn 邂逅香料島
A
to the
Spice Islands
“…and suddenly a puff of wind, faint, tepid and laden with strange odours of blossoms comes out of the still night – the first sigh of the East on my face.” – Youth, from Tales of Land and Sea by Joseph Conrad “……突如其來的風，在靜夜裏捲來一陣隱約但又無處不在的香氣─ 這是第一次，東方的歎息呵到了我臉上。”─「年輕」， 約瑟康拉德《陸海傳奇》 TEXT/文: TC Li
Special Thanks/特別鳴謝: Secret Retreats
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muse 樂
The Legend of Silolona Back in history there was a time when the golden age of maritime exploration conjured the romantic visions of majestic sailing ships, exotic sultans, and enigmatic jungle tribes. For centuries the fabled spice trade was done via land routes through Asia and the Middle East, until the mysterious ‘Spice Islands’ (later known as the East Indies, referring to what is now known as the Indian subcontinent, Southeast Asia and the islands of Oceania and Maritime Southeast Asia) intrigued explorers and navigators the likes of Columbus, Magellan and Francis Drake, to such an extent that they sailed in search of the lands of spices. Vibrant trade continued between the Spice Islands and most of the known world for centuries, as the much-sought-after spices were transported along a well-developed network of sea routes, from Africa, India to China, on magnificent, hand-built sailing vessels that are ancestors to the modern Phinisi (a traditional Indonesian two-masted sailing ship), laden with delicately scented cargos. One type of these vessels, which carried with them chronicles of important milestones in the history of humankind, is the Silolona, a ship with a long tradition deeply rooted in history, a living spirit from the golden age of sail. Built by hand in the traditional manner by the Konjo people of Sulawesi, employing exotic tropical hard woods, these majestic sailing ships have been sailed by the Bugis people for centuries. Such a time in history is still so fondly remembered that Secret Retreats, devoted to providing experiential experiences for the discerning travellers, has decided to relive the spice trade travel for modern-day travellers looking for unique experiences. Silolona Sojourns is a travel experience inspired by a love story that took place long ago in history, when the earth was still young. It was a story of romance unlike any other, where the gallant and fearless Atuf fell in love with Silolona, the most beautiful woman in all Tanimbar Islands known also for her inner strength and skill in weaving and basketry. Yet the romance also coincided with a time when the sun was too close to the earth, and life was so harsh that Silolona died in her youth. As he mourned the death of the woman he loved, Atuf vowed to make the world a safer place for all his people by building a boat capable of sailing towards the sun. He named the boat ‘Silolona’. With the blessing of the spirit of Silolona, Atuf hurled his magical spear, shattering the sun and creating all the stars and constellations.
Revisiting the Ancient Spice Trade Routes with Modern Comfort Fast forward to today, the Silolona Sojourns is a journey across the ancient spice trade routes in Southeast Asia on a vessel, in strict harmony with the monsoon weather patterns like its spice-laden ancestors had done, while taking into account the
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A magnificent, hand-made vessel that combines tradition and modern comfort.
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muse 樂
The Silolona sailing past the Komodo Island.
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importance of offering modern-day comfort, service
savoured with satisfaction, where each dish is a work
and degree of traditional integration at the same time.
of visually enticing culinary art, presented in an al
And all that is done with Silolona’s handpicked crew
fresco dining setting.
and tightly knit team of shore-based support staff, as well as Patti Seery.
True to its emphasis on truly experiential experiences, Silolona also offers a portfolio of
At the heart of the Silolona Sojourns is Patti Seery,
meticulously selected private villas and boutique
owner of the 164-foot, five-cabin, high-powered and
hotels for the days before or after your sojourn –
gaff-rigged Silolona, built with tropical hardwood
think
by Sulawesi boat builders, motorised and up to
views of Langkawi, Phuket opulence or other
Germanischer Lloyd’s safety specifications. Thanks
spellbinding accommodation experiences along
to her three decades in Indonesia, Seery, an American
those lines.
a
villa
overlooking
Bali,
the
ocean
expat, has developed a vast network of enduring
Incarnations of the glorious traditional Indonesian
relationships throughout the various cultural, social
sailing ships originally designed for trade along the
and creative strata of Southeast Asia and the world.
historic spice trade routes, Silolona ingeniously and
And it is through these long-standing relationships
luxuriously melds the safety and amenities of the
that the average visitor can enter the magical worlds,
21st century, with a style and grace that harks back
ranging from a stay at Stone Age huts to dinners
to an integral part of the history of humankind, for
with kings.
the adventurous travellers forever in a pursuit of
The sojourns of Silolona are designed to be
enthralling travel experiences.
private travel experiences according to your personal wishes and requirements, such as your own schedule, destination, places to visit, and where to stop along the way. If you wish, you may even privatise Silolona for charter cruise (three or five cabins), or make a request for the companionship of writers, naturalists, artists, textile experts, photographers, or leading marine scientists to share their knowledge and skills with you. Should you wish to have your personal massage therapist on call, a yoga master, or a chartered plane or helicopter transfer arranged, Silolona has its ways to make it happen for you too. Featuring a décor of authentic colours, textures and styles derived from the cultures they embody, the three suites on Silolona are all en-suite, fully airconditioned, and can accommodate up to six guests. While on-board, be surprised by an extensive list of spontaneous events and activities, depending on the special locations or magical moments during the sojourn. From beach parties, picnics on the walls of an ancient ruin, guided dives in Raja Ampat and Komodo, to massage and body therapies (such as the Hot Stone, Deep Tissue and Shambhala Massage), as well as a great array of water sports, time spent on Silolona is a combination of adrenaline-fuelled activities, wildlife discovery and holistic wellbeing. To ensure your utmost comfort, Silolona goes to great lengths to incorporate your wishes and requests in the sojourns, including your culinary needs – whether you prefer your comfort food or regional Southeast Asian specialities, meals on Silolona are events to be
About Secret Retreats Secret Retreats is a collection of some of the finest boutique residences, hotels and boats throughout Asia and a brand that provides experiential experiences for the discerning traveller. Representing a collective of cultured individuals whose taste, sense of refinement, simplicity and hospitality is reflected in the unique properties that they created, Secret Retreats is solely devoted to promoting properties within Asia. Conscious of the uniformity of luxury hotel chains around the world that has deprived today’s travellers of authenticity and individuality, Secret Retreats sets a new reference point in the hospitality industry through advocating exclusive boutique hideaways and promoting bespoke travel experiences.
MOUTAI Magazine
55
muse Теѓ
56
MOUTAI Magazine
自
政府於2008年實施葡萄酒零關稅的 政策，香港遂進身為全球矚目的美 酒之都，成為國際釀酒商與品牌貿
易商的兵家必爭之地。同年香港貿易發展局 創辦香港國際美酒展（“美酒展”），將位於 灣仔的香港會議展覽中心化身為葡萄酒及烈
品酒盛會在香港 TEXT/文: TC Li
酒的業務推廣平台。至今香港已超越紐約及 倫敦，成為全球最大的葡萄酒拍賣市場，剛
Photography/攝: Bluer
過去的第六屆美酒展亦吸引了逾千個來自40
S
個國家及地區的參展商，盛況空前。
ince its government’s abolishment
enthusiasts, the Hong Kong International
of wine duties in 2008, Hong
Wine & Spirits Fair 2013 has especially
2013年11月舉行的此屆美酒展邀得西班
Kong has fast emerged as a global
arranged for a master class on pairing Chinese
牙出任“夥伴國家”，因此會場內設有大型
hub of wine consumption, and therefore
sauces with wine on the Public Day, an Ice
的西班牙特色展館，呈獻超過90個參展商及
trading and distribution. And it was also in
Bar for cocktail demonstrations, an art space
多個主題活動，讓更多人領略到西班牙的文
the same year that the Hong Kong Trade
where books of the world’s wine cultures and
化及釀酒技術。此外，會場內當然少不了其
Development Council debuted the Hong
paintings by Chinese contemporary artist Yin
他主要釀酒國如法國、阿根廷、南非、葡萄
Kong International Wine & Spirits Fair at
Jun are displayed, a Sake Cups and Glasses
牙、意大利及智利的展區，還有首度參展的
Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition
exhibition, a Buyers Forum that brought
約旦、土耳其、立陶宛、蒙特內哥羅及摩洛
Centre, to provide a marketing platform
together industry players from China and
哥。值得一提的是，今年亞洲參展商更加踴
for the establishment of the wine and
Southeast Asia to share their views on market
躍，參觀的買家及大眾不難發現，展區內處
spirits business in the region. With Hong
developments, and it has also brought back
處可見日本清酒及中國葡萄酒等亞洲酒品。
Kong now having overtaken New York
the fine wine tasting sessions to offer visitors
and London to become the largest wine
and buyers the chance to try some of the
盛會，2013年美酒展於公眾開放日特設
auction market in the world, the sixth
world’s most sought-after wines including
“ 品 酒 大 師 課 程 ”， 由 著 名 品 酒 師 教 授 中
Hong Kong International Wine & Spirits
top German Riesling wines, premium Port
Fair hosts over 1,000 exhibitors from close
wines, and finest wines from Spain.
國醬油配搭美酒的技巧。同場更有於Ice
to 40 countries and regions worldwide.
Widely acclaimed as China’s top-
作為一個迎合各界愛酒人士口味的
Bar舉行的多場雞尾酒調酒示範、日本清 酒杯展覽、供中國及東南亞買家分享市場
Partner Country of the fair this year
notch baijiu, the Kweichow Moutai has
is Spain, whose Spanish Pavilion features
exhibited its precious gift pack edition, a
over 90 exhibitors and various activities
small batch that was meticulously blended
to promote the country’s culture and
by the CHINA KWEICHOW MOUTAI
wine-making.
major
DISTILLERY (GROUP) CO. LTD. for the
wine-producing countries such as France,
overseas markets. On top of information
Argentina, Germany, South Africa, Portugal,
on the art of liquor-making, also available
Italy, and Chile, also exhibiting their
at the Kweichow Moutai booth was the
country’s best wines and liquors are first-
tasting opportunity of the Moutai liquor,
作為中國頂級白酒的貴州茅台，在現場
timers the likes of Jordan, Turkey, Lithuania,
which attracted a considerable number
首次展示了珍品禮盒裝茅台酒，此酒為貴州
Montenegro and Morocco. Noteworthy
of buyers and liquor enthusiasts. Among
茅台酒廠小批量精心勾調的佳釀，專供海外
is the greater participation from the Asia
the world’s finest wines and liquors, the
市場。在茅台酒展區內，不僅展示了中國釀
region, which saw a considerable number of
Moutai liquor from the Orient stood out
酒藝術，更呈現了中國白酒文化的特色，同
booths occupied by the Japanese sake, wines
from the crowd. In its appearance at this
時還提供了茅台酒試品，吸引了眾多買家和
produced by China’s Penglai Vine and Wine
international stage, the Moutai liquor has
愛酒人士。在眾多的全球佳釀中，茅台作為
Bureau, and the Kweichow Moutai liquor –
once again shown the world its confidence
東方烈酒可謂是一枝獨秀。此次參展是茅台
the national liquor of China.
and capability to become among the
酒登上國際舞台的又一次精彩亮相，彰顯了
world’s greatest liquors.
貴州茅台躋身世界名酒的信心和動力。
Alongside
other
As an event designed to cater to the
走勢的論壇。與此同時，展會還設置了 藝術空間，向來賓展示世界各地美酒文化 的書籍和中國當代藝術家尹俊的畫作。 大會更再度舉辦頂級佳釀試酒會，讓買家及 公眾人士一嚐全球趨之若鶩的高級美酒，包 括殿堂級德國雷司令、珍稀優質砵酒及頂級 西班牙佳釀。
various needs of wine and spirit lovers and MOUTAI Magazine
57
Harmony 和
The People’s
Scholar 史景遷 為人民服務
Previously a professor at University of California, Berkeley and currently the University of Sydney, renowned specialist in Chinese intellectual history, Professor Jeffrey Riegel is a great fan of Jonathan D. Spence. On a recent visit, Riegel recommended a new book by Spence to me because of its different take on academics. In the eyes of Riegel, an enthusiast of Discovery Channel’s shows on Chinese history and ancient Chinese culture, Spence is perhaps a kindred spirit that rarely comes by. 曾在伯克利執教多年，現執教於悉尼大學的著名漢學家王安國 （J.Riegel）算是史景遷在學術圈內的粉絲。有一次我去拜訪他，他正在 看史景遷的一本新書，並且向我推薦說： “閑暇時翻翻，換個角度看看學術 也不錯” 。對於熱衷於在Discovery頻道向美國觀眾介紹秦始皇和中國上古 文化的王安國來說，史景遷也許是一個難得的同道中人。 TEXT/文: Dong Tie-zhu
T
58
MOUTAI Magazine
image/圖: ImagineChina 東方IC
Translation/譯: TC Li
hat the 77-year-old Yale University professor
Naturally enough, American specialists in China
Jonathan D. Spence was featured in the
studies in the 1950s were, by and large, focused on
Chinese edition of Esquire recently came as
investigating the historical causes of the weaknesses
little surprise for those in the academic circle, where
of contemporary China, and dialogues were only held
Spence has always been considered an unconventional
among the academic specialists. With the American
rarity – just when other specialists in Chinese culture
public’s scanty knowledge of China, and the China
and history study elaborate with oft-convoluted
studies experts’ reluctance to elaborate on the nuts
theories, Spence favours the chronicle of the country’s
and bolts of China to who they perceived as laymen,
history in a style not unlike a captivating novel with
the US government’s vilification of China was a rather
distinguished twists and turns, whether it be his Return
easy success. For a long time China studies in the
to Dragon Mountain: Memories of a Late Ming Man, or The
United States remained an academic field exclusive to
Chan’s Great Continent: China in Western Minds. Opening
those in ivory towers – until Spence, that is.
the window for the English-speaking western world to
Idolised by many a Yale students was Spence,
the history of China, Spence’s works are always among
and for many years on end. An undergraduate at
the bestsellers.
Yale University in 1994, Susan Jakes, later a Ph.D.
China studies in the United States took the shape
in Chinese history, still remembers the sheer sight of
of a mainstream academic field following the end of
Spence’s lecture she attended in sophomore year –
the Second World War, and the purpose of China
the lecture hall was fully packed with hundreds of
studies back then was very clear: to devise ways
eager students, and all of Spence’s books were sold
to disrupt the country’s communist government.
out by the time she and her roommate reached the
university’s bookshop after the lecture. It was Spence
contemplate the all-important question: What really
that Jakes decided to major in Chinese history despite
are China studies about?
her lack of knowledge in this field of study, because,
Born in England in the 1930s and made his name in
to quote Jakes, Spence taught what she and her
the United States, Spence thought the meaning behind
fellow students wanted to know.
China studies shouldn’t have rested at the development
This remark of Jakes’ speaks volume about Spence
of psychic weapons during the Cold War, but it
as a professor, as while China studies specialists
should be about aiding westerners’ understanding of
are almost indisputably eminent scholars on their
China. In Heritage of China: Contemporary Perspectives on
own, not everyone is a teacher who can deliver an
Chinese Civilization, he wrote, over two decades ago,
entertaining lecture – many simply can’t teach, while
“Westerners have been unclear about China since they
some can’t even be bothered. The truth is, teaching
first began to live there in any numbers and to write
only comes second to publishing research findings
about the country at length.” Interpreted in Chinese,
for many distinguished professors in universities
Spence’s historical research is a ‘service for the people’.
across the United States, because the latter is what
The socialist approach Spence opted for is similar
really escalates them further up the academic ladder.
to the folk literature adopted by Chinese artists the
Not very often does one see an esteemed professor
likes of Zhao Shu-li, who launched the Shanyaodan
like Spence, who would willingly spend time on
(potato) literary movement – an approach that leaves
piquing undergraduates’ interest in Chinese history.
behind global influence. The other China studies
He has not just popularised the mainstream, but has
specialists, meanwhile, gladly stayed and researched
also compelled other China studies specialists to
within their own cliques. MOUTAI Magazine
59
Harmony 和
In God’s Chinese Son: The Taiping Heavenly Kingdom
recognition of Spence’s status – Spence is inarguably
of Hong Xiuquan, Spence consciously drew a line
the most influential contemporary China studies
between himself and the rest of the China studies
specialist outside the ivory tower, and this is precisely
specialists, by declaring that the purpose of the book
the academic life Spence has been in pursuit of.
was not to provide a detailed chronicle of the Taiping
China studies specialists who would popularise
Rebellion from start to finish and its impact on China,
academics like Spence himself are still a rarity today,
because work of this nature has already been done by
and Spence’s historical chronicles of China have been,
many exceptional scholars. His purpose, said Spence,
and still are, held in high regard. The reason is simple:
was to understand the mind of Hong Xiu-quan as best
a China studies specialist who works for the people
he can and to comprehend how this man had ‘such an
will forever be remembered by the people.
astonishing impact on his country for so many years’.
7
Understanding the impossibility for westerns – who had little knowledge even of the Qing Dynasty – to grasp the historical meaning of the Taiping Rebellion, Spence aroused western readers’ interest with a focus on Christianity. Spence made readers realise how Christianity has found its root that early back in China’s history, and how it has influenced the Chinese, like it had done the western worlds too. With Spence’s masterful account of Chinese history in his unique style, academic research was transformed into astounding literal feasts for the ordinary readers. Since 1974, Spence has written 14 books on
60
MOUTAI Magazine
7歲的美國耶魯大學教授史景遷（Jonathan D.
Spence）最近登上中國大陸版的《時尚先
生》，這一消息對於圈內人來說，一點兒都不
意外。這個圈，當然是學術圈。在學術圈內，史景遷 多少算個另類，因為他走的是通俗路線。當其他的漢 學家以嚴謹的理論來剖析中國歷史時，史景遷卻總是 以近乎小說的筆法講述中國，無論是《前朝夢憶》還 是《大汗之國》，他的文字讀來宛如一部部情節曲折 而見地深刻的故事，和讓人生畏的學術著作全然不 同。也因此他的著作總是成為大眾關注的暢銷書，甚 至引起了西方英語世界對中國歷史的濃厚興趣。
Chinese history. To Esquire’s acknowledgement of
美國的漢學研究盛於二戰之後，當時漢學研究的
Spence as a peerless professor in the entire western
目標很明確，就是要通過研究中國找出對付紅色中國
world in terms of his plentiful books on Chinese
的辦法。因此上個世紀50年代以來的美國漢學家研究
history, many scholars may express doubt – since when
中國歷史，或多或少是為了從中國歷史之中找到現在
is ‘plentiful’ the benchmark for academic research, they
中國的癥結所在；他們之間的對話，無疑是在專家層
might argue. Yet the acknowledgement, despite coming
面的。美國的民眾自然對中國一無所知，因為美國政
from a non-academic publication, remains a gesture of
府認為保持民眾的無知才可以順利地妖魔化中國，而
漢學家們又懶得紆尊降貴、浪費自己的時間去向民眾
旨的，走的是群眾路線，和中國的人民藝術家趙樹理
介紹中國歷史的ABC。所以美國的中國歷史研究，有
們的“山藥蛋”文學走的是同一個方向，對這個世界
一段很長的時間純屬象牙塔裏的清談。史景遷所衝破
產生的影響也就自然巨大，而其他的漢學家們，則多
的，就是這一堵厚厚的圍牆。
少有一點孤芳自賞的情調，所做的學問也就停留在了
在耶魯大學，史景遷多年來都是學生們的偶像。
所謂的圈子以內。
蘇珊．傑克斯是耶魯大學94級的本科生，到現在她都
在《上帝的中國兒子：洪秀全的太平天國》中，
還記得大二時去聽史景遷講座的場面：幾百人的禮堂
史景遷自覺地和其他的漢學家劃清了界線：“這本書
在開講前早已座無虛席，而聽完後她和室友趕緊跑到
並不想對太平天國運動做一個全面的描述─ 從發
學校書店，發現書店裏史景遷的書立馬就售罄了。正
生、發展、高潮、失敗以及它對中國的影響。許多優
是在史景遷魅力的感召之下，對中國一無所知的蘇珊
秀的學者已經做了這些工作……我所關注的，只是洪
選擇了中國歷史作為專業。用她的話說，史景遷所講
秀全的心理……想搞清楚基督教為何讓他做出了這樣
的，正是學生希望聽的。
轟轟烈烈之舉。”對很多連清朝都不知道的西方人來
蘇珊的話毫無疑問是對史景遷最高的讚揚。每
說，太平天國的歷史意義無疑過於抽象；從基督教這
個漢學大師都是第一流的學者，但是一流學者不一定
樣一個西方人耳熟能詳的角度入手，卻能輕而易舉地
是講課有趣的老師─很多人不會教，有的人甚至不
勾起讀者的興趣：原來中國這麽早就有了基督教，原
屑教。對美國大學裏已成名的教授而言，教書只是副
來基督教居然能讓中國人瘋狂啊！學術研究就這樣在
業，科研著作才是揚名立萬的根本；像史景遷這樣成
史景遷的筆下變成了普通讀者的閱讀大餐。
名已久的教授，還願意花精力在本科生的教育上，吸
自1974年以來，史景遷完成了14部有關中國的
引本科生對中國歷史產生興趣，這不僅是他將通俗路
歷史著作。當《時尚先生》評述說“在整個西方世
線貫徹到底的體現，也讓每一個漢學家都不得不思考
界，幾乎沒人比這位耶魯大學教授出版過更為豐富的
一個問題：中國研究究竟是為了什麽？
中國研究作品”時，圈內人也許會反駁說研究作品豈
上個世紀30年代出生於英國的史景遷雖然在美
能以“豐富”的數量為標準？但是這句外行而充滿了
國成名，但對他來說，中國歷史研究的意義並不在
溢美情緒的評價，卻為史景遷準確地定了位：在象牙
於為現實的冷戰研製出精神武器，而是為了讓更多的
塔外，史景遷的影響在當代漢學家中也許的確是最大
西方普羅大眾了解中國。在二十多年前，他曾經寫
的，而這正是史景遷追求的學術境界。
道：“自從西方人踏入中國這塊土地的那一天起，不
畢竟，今天真正願意將學術通俗化的漢學家還是
管他們有多少人，也不管他們曾經寫下了多少有關中
寥寥無幾，這也許就是史景遷筆下的中國形象獨特而
國的文字，西方人還是一直搞不懂中國。”用中國的
寶貴的原因。一個為人民服務的漢學家，讀者們自然
老話，史景遷的歷史研究，是以“為人民服務”為宗
記得他。
MOUTAI Magazine
61
Harmony 和
Lifeis a Dream 故事裏的人生
It takes one minute to recite a great Tang poetry; It takes one hour to steam-cook a pot of millet rice; It takes a century to fully experience a life of ups and downs; And it takes one thousand years to dialogue the essence of Chinese philosophies. 朗誦一首動聽的中國唐詩需要一分鐘 蒸熟一鍋香氣撲鼻的黃粱米飯需要一小時 經歷一次悲喜交集的人生需要一個世紀 對話一種中國哲學精神需要一個千年 TEXT/文: Konzen Hou
62
MOUTAI Magazine
IMAGE/圖片提供: Huang Ying Work 黃盈工作室
PHOTOGRAPHY/攝: Zhang Rui張睿
translation/譯: TC Li
MOUTAI Magazine
63
Harmony ĺ’Œ
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MOUTAI Magazine
O
The Rendezvous with Avignon
ne thousand and two hundred years
luxury.” As the tavern master was cooking
ago in history, an ordinary folklore,
a pot of millet rice, the young man slept
having successfully transcended the
on the pillow and began to dream. In the
d’Avignon, young drama playwright and
barriers of time and language, was shown
dream, he married an elegant and beautiful
director Huang Ying picked the story plot
at Festival d’Avignon for 24 consecutive
woman and lived a life of extravagance.
of A Golden Millet Dream for adaptation,
times. It was widely acclaimed as the
Came the next year, he received the ‘jinshi-
and turned it into a drama he called Cooking
‘most quintessentially Chinese drama’ by
degree’ (presented scholar) at the imperial
a Dream. He has decided to reinterpret the
the European audience. It was a drama that
examination, which saw him becoming the
1,200-year-old story with “the simplest
could be comprehended without the aid of
prime minister and later an imperial court-
plot, in the most direct way, with the most
subtitles.
accredited literati in the Tang Dynasty. All
Oriental way of thinking, and the most
five sons of his married someone from
Chinese interpretation”. The small French
rich, reputable families, landed a career as
city of Avignon to him was a place to test the
Of the more popularly read stories in China
officials of the imperial court, and made him
waters – he wanted to gauge the audience’s
among Tang Dynasty Tales, a collection of
the grandfather of dozens of grandchildren
response to his contemporary Chinese
short stories written in classical Chinese text,
altogether. In bliss and contentedness, Lu
drama.
is Record within a Pillow.
lived till his eighties. And soon he woke. The
For his Cooking a Dream, Huang has
The story depicted a young man Lu’s
millet rice was still cooking, and it dawned
especially brought some millet to France,
encounter with an old man by the same
on the young Lu that all these decades of
to be rinsed and cooked at the actual
surname at a tavern he stayed during his
opulence turned out to be nothing but
performance. With the grasp of millet in his
journey, and how he bemoaned his poverty-
a beautiful dream. “Isn’t this what life is
hand, Huang attempted to figure out the
stricken state. The old man then took out
meant to be?” said the wise old man with
duration of the ‘dream’ and the performance.
a pillow and said, “Sleep on this pillow
a chuckle. And such is the story of A Golden
The entire theatre was filled with the
and you will be blessed with wealth and
Millet Dream.
Such is Life
Fast forward to 2011. Invited by Festival
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Harmony ĺ’Œ
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aroma of the cooking rice. Forty-five minutes
national drama, Huang distinguishes his
In daytime the Zhengyici Peking Opera
into the drama, the rice was almost cooked,
work from ‘national drama’, a category of
Theatre exudes a sense of tranquility
and the dream was about to end. In the
drama created by intellectuals who returned
reminiscent of the old Beijing, characterised
end, Huang served each of the viewers a
from the United States in 1926, armed with
by the small courtyard, fish pond and the
portion of the rice, as if a gesture to remind
an understanding of western opera and the
odd bamboo pieces. Come the afternoon,
the audience that the drama was about to
desire to create something similar for China.
the place is set abuzz by actors practising
conclude.
In the eyes of Huang, Chinese drama can
water sleeve dance and singing that spans
But the curtains were only really drawn
only be as what 20th century playwright and
multiple octaves. When the light is lit at
when the audience has finished the rice. In
Chinese drama educationist Yu Shang-yuan
sundown, the show begins. And naturally,
just a matter of an hour, Huang has delivered
said to be: “A Chinese theatrical performance
everyone becomes immersed in this place,
into the hands and minds of the viewers the
produced with Chinese materials, by the
tucked away in the crumbling alley, where
aroma of the rice and philosophies from the
Chinese for the Chinese.”
time has stood still.
Orient. Perhaps as a way to express gratitude,
Huang is bold and industrious with his
Such is an experience the gifted Huang
the European viewers not only finished each
revolutionisation of the traditional Chinese
would agree: “the Zhengyici Peking Opera
and every grain of rice, but they also bought
drama. Like Shakespeare’s Macbeth he
Theatre is a classic structure to start with. Like
the Chinese calligraphy paper, written by the
plunged forward with audacity. By taking
how the old city wall of Avignon gave Cooking
actors with the Chinese brush, as a souvenir
the next theatrical work as an evolution
a Dream that magical touch, this 300-year-old
to take home with.
of the last, Huang explores the infinite
drama house, too, has bestowed the drama
possibilities of the world of drama, and has
with a flair that is unique of its own.”
Exploring the Frontiers of Chinese Drama As an adventurous young playwright and director in China’s drama industry, Huang is renowned for his expansive international vision and robust foundation built on traditional Chinese art.
successfully created theatrical works with his signature charm by breathing new blood into traditional drama plots.
A Different Interpretation at Zhengyici Peking Opera Theatre
Making Peace with Our Old Selves There is reason Huang decided to reconstruct this ancient story: the timeless moral of it. “Cooking a Dream is a story about the literate people’s pursuit of dreams, and this
Cooking a Dream, in essence, is a
Having been shown in the quaint city of
is still something faced by us modern-day
quintessentially Chinese and contemporary
Avignon, and later the National Centre for
people. Adversities in life will not fade with
work of art where the actors’ singing style
the Performing Arts, the new national drama
time, and such wisdom is a precious asset
combines Peking Opera, Yue Opera, Kunqu
Cooking a Dream presented itself in quite
our ancestors have left us.” To Huang, the
Opera and colloquial Mandarin. Well-versed
a different fashion to the audience at the
ancient Chinese wisdom has never for once
in his control of the ambience, Huang
Zhengyici Peking Opera Theatre.
blunted with the passage of time but rather,
brought the audience back in time as easily
Initially constructed as a temple in
it has continued to guide us to the road of
as he pulled the audience back to reality.
the Ming Dynasty, the Zhengyici Peking
self-reflection, to get back to basics and
Among Huang’s original touches were the
Opera Theatre was transformed into a
retrieve the inner calm that is increasingly
iPad-holding modern-day character; the
residence for the silver practitioner society
lost in the modern world.
pouring of stones and fish into a gigantic
in the sixth year of Kangxi’s reign in the
To the student’s exclamation, after
fish bowl – an act that was not unlike
Qing Dynasty while being a temple for
waking from the dream in the story, the Taoist
performance art; and the four actors, donned
the Zhengyi Xuantan Laozu, a guardian of
priest replied: “Isn’t this what life is meant to
in white, who rinsed and steam-cooked the
Taoism. By the 51st year of Kangxi’s reign,
be?” Sometimes a great fortune may not be as
rice as a monophonic tune was played on a
a building for stage drama was added, and
gratifying as a quiet life working on the field
Chinese Sanxian lute. The performance was
the building, constructed three centuries
and a bowl of millet rice afterwards. And
a juxtaposition of the dream and reality, the
ago, is the first of its kind whose indoor
so when he woke, Lu satisfied his stomach
traditional and modern worlds, and the part
theatre was built entirely out of wood. The
with a generous portion of millet rice. One
of the play that was read aloud and the part
fact that it is still standing has therefore
thousand and two hundred years may have
that was acted. By alternating between the
won the drama house the name the ‘live
passed, and so had the storyteller. But the
two discrete spaces, Huang enunciated his
fossil of a Chinese drama house’. The floral
dream remains the same dream despite its
dialogue with life: life is like a play, and a
pathway with contemporary colours that
reincarnation, and each listener of the story
play is like life. A message that rings true for
extends all the way from the front of the
is in fact the protagonist of the story. It is little
everyone, then and now.
stage further dramaticises the traditional
wonder then, that Huang said it is about time
drama stage.
we make peace with our old selves.
By defining Cooking a Dream as a new
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Harmony 和
Premium Gourmet for Premium Liquor 五星饗宴．五星佳釀
68
MOUTAI Magazine
Hong Kong has no shortage of very fine Cantonese restaurants. One of the established stand-outs is Yan Toh Heen at the InterContinental Hong Kong – recipient of a current Michelin star. Tucked away in the hotel’s lower level, with wrap-around windows that look out directly onto Victoria Harbour it has always been highly rated for cuisine and held an air of discreet luxurious dining. Recently, the interior was completely renovated, and it returned as a modern-looking restaurant – very warm and tactile. Its wine cellar area, immediately to the right of its entrance, showcases both a number of vintage western wines, as well as a handful of Chinese liquors on a special wall display. One of those is the Moutai liquor. 香港的頂尖粵菜食府從來不缺，當 中包括米芝蓮一星的香港洲際酒店 欣圖軒。從餐廳不但可眺望維港景 致，更能體驗高端美食。最近餐廳 翻新了室內裝潢，更添親切。位於 入口處右方的酒窖，備有世界各地 的陳年葡萄酒，還有包括茅台在內 的中式烈酒。 TEXT/文: Andrew Dembina
Photography/攝: Bluer
Special Thanks/特別鳴謝: InterContinental Hong Kong
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69
Harmony 和
A Wine Cellar of the World’s Premium Wines and Liquors
the display.”
“Most guests have noticed the new wine cellar
at Yan Toh Heen. An eye-catching panel outside the
display as they enter the restaurant, and see the jade
entrance is made from a patchwork of its signature
table that houses selected collectable wines that are
hand-carved real jade place settings. Private rooms
vertically displayed under glass. The table resembles
are cosy, and like the divided main dining room
a jade box with a crystal treasure showcased beneath
they have the look of a sophisticated contemporary
the glass,” said Henry Wong, the restaurant manager.
Chinese residence – it is all the impressive work of
“They are surprised when the mirrored cabinet
top locally based interior design firm CSL (Chhada
switches to transparent glass when they approach
Siembieda Leung, Ltd). Arguably the most eye-
[thanks to a ceiling censor] to reveal a showcase
catching interior partition is the one made of semi-
display of exclusive wines.
translucent pale green onyx, in form inspired by
“My colleagues like to welcome guests to this area and to introduce the wines collection in
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MOUTAI Magazine
The walk-in cellar is just one very new element
Chinese birdcages. The largest private room has its own spacious reception lounge area.
the cellar. Guests also definitely find the display
“The restaurant’s new modern design is meant
of Chinese wines and liquor interesting and
to still evoke an emotional link with the past,”
like the convenience of selecting the liquor from
summed up Wong.
Yan Toh Heen Location: Lower level, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong Opening Hours: noon to 2:30pm, 6pm to 11pm Monday to Saturday, 11:30 to 3pm, 6pm to 11pm Sunday and public holidays Reservation: +852 2313 2323 www.hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com
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Harmony 和
Culinary Experience Juxtaposes Tradition and Innovation
The last dish mentioned is one of Lau’s favourites
estimated he had renewed about half the menu.
from the new signature listings, he revealed, along
“The other half showcases signature dishes and
with Wok-fried Lobster with Black Garlic and Herbs
classic Cantonese dishes for which our restaurant
in Cognac; and Wok-fried Beef Shoulder Chops with
has been known over the past 29-plus years,” he
Fresh Fig Sauce. The Beef with Figs had an elegant, bold, sweet
“Our new menu builds on the restaurant’s heritage
take on what the average diner would expect from
and our team’s solid culinary experience and dedication
stir-fried beef. Crispy Pork Fillet with Mandarin Zest
to offering truly creative, top-quality Cantonese cuisine.
also played with sweet and savoury tones. New
The menu presents the finest Cantonese cuisine using
dim sum items include the beautifully presented
traditional cooking methods to prepare Yan Toh Heen’s
‘superior’ dumplings, a serving of three: Steamed
signature dishes, all-time favourites, as well as new
Garoupa with Shrimp Roe, wrapped delicately in
creations. Our dishes now look more contemporary
slivers of cucumber; Steamed Scallop Dumpling with
in style, but as always, they are made with the finest
Gold Leaf and Bird’s Nest; and a Steamed King Crab
ingredients and top quality seasonal products – sourced
Leg Dumpling with Green Vegetables.
locally and from around the world.” Examples of the expanse of best widely sourced ingredients for Cantonese dishes include: Crispy French Quail with Spicy Salt and Herbs; US Pork Belly; Double-boiled Fish Maw from Pakistan; and
MOUTAI Magazine
and Herbs.
Yan Toh Heen’s Executive Chef, Lau Yiu-fai
explained.
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Steamed Chilean Cod with Garlic, Preserved Olive
Popular signatures kept from the old menu include Deep-fried Pear with Scallop; and Stuffed Crab Shell with Crabmeat. Like other purveyors of fine Cantonese – some regional Chinese fare is also in the repertoire.
Peking Duck, previously highly rated here, now has a number of additional zesty and fruity new accompaniments to consider wrapping into the pancakes – such as slivers of pineapple and Chinese pear, while sauces now additionally include seafood, osmanthus plum and black garlic chilli. Some of the surprising new combinations work excellently with the tender duck meat or crispy skin that is all carved tableside. So which dishes work best with Moutai liquor? “Because the flavour of Moutai is quite strong, I suggest dishes with strong flavours,” answered Chef Lau. “Our King Prawns with XO Chilli Sauce; and Wok-fried Wagyu Beef and Duck Liver with Spicy Sauce served in a hot iron casserole would pair nicely with Moutai. Our new cod fish dish with the preserved olives is also a good match. “We had a Moutai promotion at Yan Toh Heen a couple of years ago. For that, Moutai was added ‘a la minute’ to a diced Wagyu beef dish, prepared in a hot stone casserole.” A ‘very elegant Chinese wine’ is what Manager Wong said of the Moutai liquor. “Even though the nose and the aromas are very concentrated, guests do drink it with food.” Kenny Ho, junior sommelier at Yan Toh Heen, commented that the ratio of non-alcohol drinkers to those who imbibe is higher, at around 60%. Of course, more orders come at dinner time, when Chinese liquor gets more requests than rice wine. But western wine is most popular. “Most guests who order Moutai already know it and do so for a formal business or celebratory meal,” he said. “Needless to say, Moutai is one of the top Chinese liquors.” Ho also recommended diners try the cod and olive dish with Moutai – or spicy dishes. As a sommelier, his take on Moutai is: “The nose is very elegant and complicated. Also the aroma and taste are reminiscent of soy sauce, pear, walnut and almonds.” Drawing on its three decades of culinary experience, the team at Yan Toh Heen has successfully brought in new elements, such as the new wine cellar and innovative ways of cooking, to ensure diners a pleasant gastronomic experience where the best wines and liquors from China and the western worlds are available for ultimate food pairing pleasure.
MOUTAI Magazine
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Harmony 和
Petersham Nurseries was the photo shoot location of Burberry’s 2009 spring advertising campaign. Burberry 2009年春夏廣告大片正是在Petersham Nurseries拍攝的
Natural flavours brought out by the virtues of the slow food movement and organic cooking. 慢食主義，有機烹飪，帶出食物本味
A Year in My Kitchen
Craig Au-yeung Column 歐陽應霽專欄
LOHAS Living in a 樂活園圃
TEXT/文: Craig Au-yeung 歐陽應霽
Translation/譯: TC Li
Garden
A
trip to here and there on the globe later, I embarked on my journey home and spent half a day of transit at the airport in London. In the midst of the bustle I was on tenterhooks, entertaining the
idea of ‘meeting up’ with this new love I’ve just met two weeks ago. In
場還得滯留大半天。人山人海鬧哄哄實在坐立不 安，心思思想跟“新歡”再度小聚─忘不了兩個
星期前邂逅，細雨裏花樹下溫室中，那鮮嫩甜美的煎帶子配
the greenhouse under the trees in the drizzly weather, was my encounter
Agretti菜芯番茄茸和烤麵包碎，那原條Dover Sole烤好配慢煮
with the sweet and succulent pan-fried scallop with agretti, tomato purée
茴香莖和Oregano香草牛油，一路暢飲的是法國Bergerac地
and croutons, whole-baked dover sole with slow-cooked fennel bulb and
區的Monbazillac甜白酒。還有甜品時間貪心共享的鮮芒果手
oregano butter, paired with the Monbazillac sweet white wine produced
工雪糕和黑巧克力蛋糕。再來一杯紅寶石顏色乾櫻桃馥郁香
in Bergerac, France. And then there were the handmade fresh mango ice cream and dark chocolate cake, and the Elba Aleatico Passito sweet red wine made in Puglia, Italy. That magical encounter happened on the second day of the trip, and with that alone, I was content enough to call it a finale.
74
團
團轉這裏那裏繞了一圈，回程時取道倫敦，在機
MOUTAI Magazine
氣的意大利Puglia地區的Elba Aleatico Passito甜紅酒……完全 戲劇性的偶遇可以如此刻骨銘心，其實那只是長途旅程的第 二天，已經好像心滿意足可以回家休息。
The Unfussy Chef
Petersham Nurseries is not a newcomer
Handwritten menu.
It all began at the bookstore I passed by
to the LOHAS (Lifestyles of Health and
while in search of a bite, on my first day in
Sustainability)
London. Screaming for attention from the
Owners Gael and Francesco Boglione have
recipe book section was this award-winning
been living here for close to a decade, and
one called A Year in My Kitchen by Skye
decided five years ago to transform the two
Gyngell, an Australian chef currently based
greenhouses into a teahouse and a café,
in London. From my years of experience
helmed by celebrated female chef Skye
sourcing and collecting recipe books, my
Gyngell. By actualising the ideal way of
gut feeling told me that this book is right
living and mode of work, refining all the
up my alley. Unable to resist the temptation
minute details before successfully sharing
the book’s beautiful photography has done
the joy and harvest with friends and family
to my senses, I bought it without second
and later the bigger community, the owners
thought, and began reading it on the Tube.
have been able to derive the greatest sense
自話的，好奇如我又怎能不馬上作好決定，
of satisfaction and achievement from their
睡個好覺準備好最佳心情狀態去一訪這個園
work.
圃中的色感、香氛、味覺天堂。
With extensive culinary experience up her sleeve, Gyngell was invited to London
bandwagon,
手寫菜單，寧靜致遠
however.
色彩味道濃烈鮮明取勝─這都是書中自說
five years ago to helm the teahouse and
The afternoon was soon whiled away
從來認定生活是個融合互動的整體，也
lunch-only café at the garden of Petersham
from all the eating, drinking and walking
就是一個total living的概念。由此建築，視
Nurseries, in the picturesque Richmond
around in the garden. Such effortless
覺藝術，文學，電影，音樂，舞蹈，設計，
outskirts. Unlike innovative Australian cuisine,
happiness
happening.
飲食，園藝方方面面缺一不可。所以一家開
which has been criticised for its lacking in
Despite the bustling business the waiting
設在倫敦近郊園圃溫室裏的茶室和餐廳，地
substance underneath the pretty façade,
staff maintained its five-star service, and
下就直接是泥土，桌椅都是從鄰近農莊收集
Gyngell is more action than talk, and is
seated at every table were diners with a jolly
過來的舊物，用餐區的另一端擺放寄賣的都
able to create her own unfussy culinary
look of satisfaction, on a typical English
是從各地搜集回來的有鄉土田園風味的餐具
style that conquers with intense colours
spring day when the fickle weather meant
家居衛浴用品，也有很大一個範圍售賣的是
and flavours, not least by sourcing a great
unpredictable temperature changes. Not far
園藝的工具以及種子。當然走出溫室到露天
amount of edible vegetables and herbs
away, Chef Gyngell walked towards my
園圃，活生生的已成盆栽的香草、花卉和食
from the garden, and food ingredients from
direction, tray in hand. It’s as if I was part of
用植物，以至茁壯茂盛的長在地裏的，都可
Britain and Europe. But that’s only what the
the community, really getting to know the fun of running a business that, while being
以滿足並融進你的理想新生活。
book said. Forever a curious soul, I decided to go to sleep and prepare for a trip to this
natural, is also one of high maintenance.
aromatic heaven in a garden the next day.
Nothing compares to blending your lifestyle
with
so
much
into your work. Perhaps this is precisely
Sustainability in a Garden
what sustainable development is about.
The all-embracing lifestyle concept of
這明顯也並不是衝著目前流行的Lohas 生活而來的，因為園圃主人Gael and Francesco Boglione夫婦搬到這裏已經近十年光 景，而五年前再開始把兩個溫室分別改裝設 置成對外開放的茶室和餐廳，更請來在餐飲 業界已經享有盛名的女廚師Skye Gyngell來
‘total living’ means that everything from
一切源自剛到倫敦那天覓食途中路過小書
architecture to visual art, literature, movie,
主理，就更是一種把理想生活和工作具體化
店，食譜書叢中一眼看中一本喚作《A Year
music, dance, design to wine and dine, and
的實踐，把種種微妙細節沉澱、提煉和昇
in My Kitchen》的得獎好書，作者是旅居倫
horticulture is equally important in life. And
華，而能夠成功的從與身邊親密友人開始，
敦的澳洲女廚師Skye Gyngell。根據多年搜
the Petersham Nurseries is an exemplary case
以至進一步與社會公眾分享，也該就是經營
羅收藏廣覓食譜的經驗，直覺這正是我的那
– with a teahouse and café built inside the
者從中獲得的最大的滿足和成就感。
杯茶那道菜那塊餅。一張又一張能夠達意傳
greenhouse of a garden, the mud replacing
坐在這個園圃裏，吃喝遊逛一轉眼就是
情的照片在這裏發揮了撩動色香味感官的厲
man-made floor, chairs and tables collected
一整個下午，快樂得如此簡單也如此複雜。
害作用，毫不猶豫的買來抱在懷裏，在地鐵
仔細觀察每一個忙碌中的服務水準超好的
的搖晃中迫不及待的細看─入廚專業經驗
男女侍應，留意每一枱人客的喜悅表情與心
豐富的Skye五年前被邀來倫敦，在風景優
情，感受忽陰忽晴的典型英國春天天氣的變
美的Richmond郊野的Petersham社區內的
化造成的光影幻轉和溫差，還竟然讓我看到
一個喚作Petersham Nurseries的花圃中，
主廚Skye在不遠處捧著一個盤子走過─我
主理一家茶室和只供午餐的餐廳。有別一般
好像不知不覺的成為了這裏的一分子，得悉
對澳洲新派菜徒具形式的批評，Skye用上
和分享到這自然自在又必須努力維持經營的
來自園中的大量食用蔬果和香草，加上英國
艱苦樂趣。這種生活與工作渾然一體的感覺
和歐洲各地的食材和調料，自成一種率直狂
是最最美好的，所謂可持續發展大抵也就這
放隨意的烹調風格，絕不纖弱清淡，倒是以
樣的一種狀態和願景。
from nearby farms, rustic tableware and bathroom accessories sourced from all over the world consigned for sale on the other side of the dining proper, plus a spacious area selling gardening tools and seeds. Outside, in the open-air garden area, there’s not a dearth of flourishing potted herbs, flowers and edible plants in the ground, promising to meet the needs and be part of your new dream lifestyle.
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Harmony 和
Diamond Hong Inc. Sealed Deal with the National Liquor of China At the ‘3rd China-Guizhou International Alcoholic Beverages Expo’ on 8 September, KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD. signed a EUR80 million-plus export order with Diamond Hong Inc. of the United States. Since 1995, Diamond Hong Inc. has been a licensed importer and wholesaler of the Moutai liquor, from the initial few hundred cases to the current tens of thousands of cases, all the while
with a total contract value reaching RMB179.16
第三屆中國國際酒類博覽會期
茅台酒，從最初的幾百箱擴展到如今的幾萬箱，使茅
間，中共中央政治局委員、國 務院副總理汪洋（前左一）在
increasing the Moutai liquor’s market share, fame
貴州省委書記趙克志等領導的
and reputation in overseas markets.
陪同下視察茅台酒展廳。
Approximately 239 deals were closed at the Expo,
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Wang Yang, Vice Premier of the People’s Republic of China and member of the Central Politburo Standing Committee of the Communist Party of China (first from left on the front), visited the Moutai liquor booth at the 3rd China-Guizhou International Alcoholic Beverages Expo, accompanied by dignitaries such as Zhao Ke-zhi, Governor of Guizhou province.
MOUTAI Magazine
billion.
美國大文行公司“牽手”中國國酒 9月8日，在第三屆中國（貴州）國際酒類博覽會項目 集中簽約活動中，貴州茅台酒股份有限公司與美國大 文行酒業有限公司簽訂經銷合同，金額達八千多萬歐 元。 美國大文行酒業有限公司於1995年開始經銷貴州 台酒在海外市場的佔有率、知名度、美譽度在不斷提 升。 據悉，此次博覽會現場簽約239個項目，總金額達 1,791.6億元人民幣。
The Release of ‘The Asia’s 500 Most Influential Brands 2013’ -Moutai Ranks First in Food Industry ‘The Asia’s 500 Most Influential Brands 2013’ by World Brand Lab and World Executive Group was released in Hong Kong on 28 September. Listed in the World Brand Lab’s eighth evaluation of the influence of Asian brands are 500 brands from 19 countries and regions, with Korea’s Samsung, China’s Industrial and Commercial Bank of China, and Japan’s Toyota ranked as the top three; meanwhile, China’s Kweichow Moutai
Hong Kong Moutai Club Limited Established Youth Committee
ranked 72 in the overall ranking and first in the food industry.
The Asia’s 500 Most Influential Brands
Having endeavoured for years to spread the culture of Moutai liquor to Hong
2013’s criteria for evaluation is the brands’
Kong and overseas, the Hong Kong Moutai Club Limited has established the
influence in Asia, with ‘brand influence’
Youth Committee recently, and held an inauguration ceremony at the Hong
being the brands’ performance in market
Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre on 21 October. Chuang’s Group’s Mr.
exploration, market share and revenue.
Albert Chuang Ka-pun, the Youth Commitee’s first manager, has expressed in
The benchmark for evaluation includes the
his speech that the Youth Committee aims at reinforcing Hong Kong’s new
brands’ market share, brand loyalty and
generation’s understanding of Chinese culture and wine culture, as well as
Asian leadership.
raising young people’s awareness of, and encouraging their participation in and responsibility for social affairs. Established in 2001, the Hong Kong Moutai Club Limited has long been celebrating the appreciation of the national liquor, cultural heritage, propagation of national spirit in order to help China grow. As a permanent fixture in the landscape of Hong Kong’s upper class society, the Hong Kong Moutai Club Limited has contributed greatly to the economic and social development in Hong Kong and Guizhou. The establishment of Youth Commitee is believed to help penetrate Hong Kong Moutai Club Limited’s effort to the younger
2013年亞洲品牌500強排行榜 揭曉 茅台居食品行業第一 由世界品牌實驗室(World Brand Lab)和世界 經理人集團共同編製發布的2013年《亞洲品 牌500強》排行榜於9月28日在香港揭曉， 這是世界品牌實驗室第八次對亞洲品牌的影 響力進行測評。共有19個國家和地區的500
population of Hong Kong.
個品牌入選，韓國三星、中國工商銀行和日
香港國酒茅台之友協會青年委員會成立
名、食品行業第1名。
香港茅台之友協會引領茅台酒飄香至香江及海外多年，近日又成立了青年委員會， 於10月21日在香港會展中心舉行了成立典禮。莊士集團莊家彬先生擔任首屆青年 委員會主任，他在致辭中強調，青委會旨在加強香港新一代對中國文化的認識，對 酒文化的了解，並提高青年人關心和參與社會事務的興趣和責任。 香港國酒茅台之友協會成立於2001年，始終堅持“品研國酒、傳承文化、弘揚 國粹、振興中華”的宗旨，成為香港上層社會生活中一道靚麗的風景線，也為香港 和貴州兩地的經濟社會發展作出了積極的貢獻。青年委員會的成立，也必將推動香 港茅台之友協會的工作在廣大香港青年中深入、傳承和弘揚。
本豐田名列前三，貴州茅台位列排行榜第72 《亞洲品牌500強》(The Asia’s 500 Most Influential Brands) 的評判標準 是品牌的亞洲影響力，品牌影響力(Brand Influence)是指品牌開拓市場、佔領市場、並 獲得利潤的能力。世界品牌實驗室評價品牌 影響力的基本指標包括市場佔有率(Share of Market)、品牌忠誠度(Brand Loyalty)和亞洲 領導力(Asian Leadership) 。
MOUTAI Magazine
77
Harmony 和
Château Loudenne SAS Celebrated First Harvest Season After Acquisition Château Loudenne SAS, CHINA KWEICHOW MOUTAI DISTILLERY (GROUP) CO., LTD.’s buyout in Médoc, Bordeaux in 2013, has recently celebrated its first harvest season since the acquisition.
According to report by the Château, the general
white wine grapes quality is excellent this year, with a rich fruity aroma and the fruits ripe. Meanwhile, the harvest of red wine grapes such as merlot and cabernet sauvignon has also completed on 16 October. The Château has especially replaced mechanical harvesting with hand-picking for the season just past to ensure the quality of the wine grapes.
海馬酒莊完成收購以來首個採摘季 位於世界著名的波爾多左岸葡萄酒產區梅多克的海馬 酒莊，是茅台集團2013年在法國全資收購的中級酒 莊。日前，酒莊已完成了自收購以來的首個採摘季。 據相關負責人介紹，今年總體的乾白葡萄質量優 異，果香濃郁，果實成熟乾淨。此外，乾紅葡萄梅洛 和赤霞珠的採摘也分別於10月10日和16日圓滿結束。 在此次採摘季中，酒莊首次將原有機械採摘工藝提升 為純手工採摘，確保了釀酒葡萄的整體質量水平。
78
MOUTAI Magazine
(GROUP) CO., LTD., has pointed out that while Moutai’s road to the global market will not be smooth sailing, with the close cooperation with overseas agencies, the Group hopes to grow and conquer challenges together.
貴州茅台國際市場營銷網絡形 成 據相關統計數據顯示，截止目前，貴州茅 台酒境外代理商已增加到75家，市場網 絡覆蓋了亞洲、歐洲、美洲、大洋洲、非 洲及中國重要口岸的免稅市場。茅台酒覆 蓋全球的國際市場營銷網絡逐步形成。近 日，來自美國、英國、法國、德國等多個 國家和地區的貴州茅台海外經銷商代表在
Sales Network of Kweichow Moutai in International Market
market situation for China’s baijiu industry in 2013, Chairman of CHINA KWEICHOW
中國廣州匯聚一堂，共同探討海外市場的 發展。 對於2013年中國白酒行業的形勢及國
According to statistical figures, the current
MOUTAI DISTILLERY (GROUP) CO.,
number of Kweichow Moutai’s overseas
LTD. and KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO.,
agencies has reached 75, with a network
LTD., Yuan Ren-guo has carried out a
covering Asia, Europe, the Americas,
comprehensive analysis and is confident
Oceania, Africa, and duty-free markets in the
about the future development of the brand.
major ports in China – a sign of the gradual
“As a Chinese brand that is rich in cultural
completion of the Moutai liquor’s global
value, Moutai will be open-minded and
sales network. Recently, representatives of
accommodating and equip itself with a
Kweichow Moutai’s overseas agencies in
world vision to evolve with the world. It is
茅台集團公司總經理劉自力對如何做
the United States, the United Kingdom,
our hope that 2014 will be a new beginning
好未來貴州茅台酒及系列酒國際市場營銷
France, Germany and many others gathered
for Moutai’s exploration of the global
工作，提出了具體的要求。他指出，茅台
in Guangzhou, China, to discuss the future
market.”
酒國際市場的成長道路上必定充滿了艱
overseas market development.
辛，希望海外經銷商們進一步加強與茅台
KWEICHOW MOUTAI DISTILLERY
Regarding the trend and international
Liu Zi-li, General Manager of CHINA
際市場情況，茅台集團公司及貴州茅台酒 股份有限公司董事長袁仁國做了全面的分 析，對未來充滿信心，他說，“作為一個 有文化底蘊的中國民族品牌，茅台將以開 放的姿態，包容的心態，世界的眼光和全 球的高度，與世界同行，希望2014年成為 茅台開拓國際市場征程的新起點。”
集團的合作，同舟共濟，共同成長。
Kweichow Moutai Won ‘Global Performance Excellence Award 2013’
貴州茅台榮獲“2013年度全球卓越 績效獎”
At the 19th ‘Global Performance Excellence Award’ by the Asia Pacific Quality
第19屆亞太國際質量大會日前在印尼峇厘島召開，
Organisation in Bali, Indonesia, earlier, Kweichow Moutai garnered the Best in Class
貴州茅台榮獲本屆大型製造業類最佳獎——“2013
Award for Large Manufacturing Organization.
年度全球卓越績效獎”。
Adopting the standards of the Malcolm Baldrige National Quality Award,
“全球卓越績效獎”是亞太質量組織採用美國
the Global Performance Excellence Award is Asia Pacific Quality Organisation’s
波多里奇卓越績效標準設立的世界級管理類大獎，
international management award, the only internationally accredited performance
由經驗豐富的波獎評審師實施資料評審的唯一全球
excellence award with evaluation by judges of the Malcolm Baldrige National Quality
認可的卓越績效獎項。按照大型製造業類、大型服
Award. The awards are categorised into the six categories of Large Manufacturing Organization, Large Service Organization, Small Service Organization, Educational Organization, Health Care Organization, and Not for Profit Organization.
務業類、小型服務業類、教育類、保健類和非營利 類6大類進行評選和頒獎。
MOUTAI Magazine
79
Harmony 和
Kweichow Moutai Overseas Agency Network –
Your Liquor Appreciation Company Name 公司名稱
The Americas 美洲
地址
7709 Industry Avenue, Pico Rivera, CA 90660, United States
Diamond Hong Inc. 美國大文行有限公司
William S.Cheung 張瑞群
TEL：001-718-7880222
211-239, 41st Street Brooklyn, New York 11232, United States
Kenway International Trading Ltd. 京匯國際貿易有限公司
Darren Lee
TEL：001-604-782-1925
Sinocan Supply Inc. 加拿大漢嘉酒業有限公司
Lin Ma
TEL：1-780-6959734 FAX：1-780-9887833 Website：www.sinocansupply.com E-mail：info@sinocansupply.com
P.O Box 1822 Stn Main, Edmonton, Alberta, Canada, T5J 2P2
Sol Agricola Ltda 巴西綠色陽光有限公司
Yue Qun 岳坤
TEL：00-55-51-85105005
Av. Borges De Medeiros, 2105 Conj110290, 110-150 Praia de Belas, Porta Alegre, Rs Ativa, Brazil
Take Roll Company Ltd S.A., Panama 巴拿馬德倫有限公司
Liang Jin-hong 梁錦鴻
TEL：(507) 447 2543/ 00852-25456800 FAX：(507) 447 2442/ 00852-25458008
Edificio Cofrisa C-9, Manzana No. 2-B, Local 7A, Colón, Panama
Tiburon Azul Import Export Limitada 智利南鯊魚公司
Chen Zhi-gong 陳志恭
TEL：0056-08-5099213/ 00852-23943239 FAX：0056-02-3937180/ 00852-27893615
Padre Miguel de Olivares 1405#609 Santiago, Chile
Importadora Exportadora y Commercializadora Lan Global Limitada 香港裕和集團
Ma Zong 馬總
TEL：0056-22211667/ 00852-23943239 FAX：0056-22839736/ 00852-27893615
Rodulfo Philippi #61, Santiago Centro, Santiago, Chile
KK Food Trading Co., Ltd. 德國KK食品公司
Arne Frese
TEL：+49 4207 604183/ 00852-25110600 FAX：+49 4207 604-29-183/ 00852-28272031 Website：www.kkfoodhk.com
Industriestrasse 40-427, 28876 Oyten, Germany
Jazz Trading Company (UK) Ltd. 英國爵士公司
Lin Guang 林光
TEL：+44-2088557700
FAX：+44-2082271479/2088557720
Unit 8, Commonwealth Building, Woolwich, Church Street, London, SE18 SNS, United Kingdom
Seewoo Foods Limited 英國泗和行公司
Stanley Tse
TEL：+44 (0) 8450768888/00852-69597131 FAX：+44 (0) 8450768890/020-89773531 Website：www.seewoo.com E-mail：enquiries@seewoo.com
SeeWoo House, 14 Waxlow Road, Park Royal, London, NW1D 7NU, United Kingdom
Asia Express Food 荷蘭亞洲食品公司
Jan Brouwer
TEL：+31 (0) 38 3329082
Kilbystraat 1, 8263 CJ Kampen, The Netherlands
Cammy France Development Ltd. 法國Cammy公司
Herve Tan
TEL：+33 (0) 952657050/0033(0) 606888388 FAX：+33 (0) 153792756/0755-82497306
164, Boulevard Masséna 75013 Paris, France
Aporol Buba 比利時阿波羅公司
Jasmine
TEL：+32-488475576
Antwerpse Steenwerg 146 2620, Hemiksem, Belgium
Sina-Agro Co.,Ltd. 俄羅斯西納公司
Li chong-guo 李崇國
TEL：+8-495-9269883/00852-28518211 FAX：+8-495-9269883/00852-28518263
Office 503, Yaroslavskaya Street, 8/6, Moscow 129164, Russia
Russia Metal Co.,Ltd. 俄羅斯金屬有限公司
Yu Jing-feng
TEL：+7(4234)33-92-11/33-92-14/00852-62760544 FAX：+7(4234)33-92-09/00852-23319882
16 Mikhaylovka Road, Ussuriysk City, Coastal Region, Russia
Italy 義大利
Two Eights Italia S.r.l. 義大利88公司
Gianluca Scalfi
TEL：+39 0039 030 FAX：+39 030 5533179 Mobile：+39 (0) 3351279066 E-mail：info@moutai.it
Via Europa, 2, 25050 Provaglio D’iseo (BS), Italy
Spain 西班牙
Jv-Comercio De Vino Sl 葡萄酒貿易公司
Vanda Fonseca
TEL：+351 218403745
FAX：+351 218471296
Calle de Juan Bravo, 3-A/28006 Madrid, Spain
Jv - Comércio De Vinhos, Lda 杜什維紐什合資貿易公司
Maria Ye
TEL：+351 218403745
FAX：+351 218471296
Rua Viana da Mota, No.26 Alvalade 1700-367 Lisboa, Portugal
The Changs Export & Import Co., Ltd. 張家進出口有限公司
Cynthia Cheung 張皚琳
TEL：0030(210)7758450/00852-60281999 FAX：0030(210)7794068/00852-21101905 Website：www.hciec.com
1st Floor, No.38, 28th October Street, Ano Ilisia, 15772, Athens, Greece
Evershine Australia Trading Pty. Ltd. 澳大利亞明耀貿易公司
William Dong
TEL：0061(02)94757888 FAX：0061(02) 92645555 Website：www.evershine.com.au E-mail：info@twoeights.com.au
Suite 18 D, Level 18, 2 Park Street, Sydney, NSW 2000, Australia
Evershine New Zealand Limited 新西蘭明耀貿易公司
Sandy Lai
TEL：+64 22 1593456 E-mail：info@evershine.co.nz
Unit 4, 8 Laidlaw Way, East Tamaki, Manukau, Auckland 0752, New Zealand
Korea 韓國
Moutai Korea Ltd. 韓國茅台公司
Kyung Jin Tao 金道暻
TEL：+82-319576611 FAX：+82-319497300 Website：www.moutaikorea.com E-mail：spfuture@lycos.co.kr
#378-10, Yeondasanri, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do, Korea
Japan 日本
Nichiwa Shoji Co., Ltd. 日本日和商社
Huang Yao-dong 黃耀東
TEL：0081-3-5778 4321 FAX：0081-3-5778 9889 Website：www.nichi-wa.co.jp E-mail：info@nichi-wa.co.jp
1F, 3-1-15 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo # 150-0002, Japan
Vietnam Xingda Trade Co., Ltd. 越南興達公司
Zi Lai Cheng
TEL：0084-203502126
16A Hoa An, Coc Leu Ward, Lao Cai City, Lao Cai Province, Vietnam
Prosimex Import Export Production And Trading Jsc 越南商業部進出口公司
Chen Guo-fang 陳國芳
TEL：0084-4-38583672/38584087 FAX：0084-4-38585009 Website：http://prosimex.com.vn E-mail：duongprosimex@fpt.vn
No.45, Land 35, Khuong Ha Street, Thanh Xuân Xuan District, Hanoi, Vietnam
Norkis Trading Co., Inc. 菲律賓華惠國際有限公司
Mai Jian-xiong 麥健雄
TEL：0063-32346-5639/0063-32346-1411 FAX：0063-32346-0926/0756-3233000
A.S. Fortuna Street, Mandaue City, 6014 Cebu, Philippines
Victory Ease Investments Ltd. 菲律賓凱誼投資有限公司
Wu Wen-dian 吳文典
TEL：0063-27377882/00852-29550155 FAX：0063-27377882/00852-29550255
G41, Good Earth Plaza, Rizal Avenue, Manila, Philippines
Canada 加拿大 Brazil 巴西 Panama 巴拿馬
UK 英國
The Netherlands 荷蘭
Europe 歐洲
Address
聯繫方式
TEL：001-626-5799017 / 001-626-5799018 FAX：001-626-5794335 Website：www.cnsenterprises.net E-mail：sshih@cnsenterprises.net
Germany 德國
France 法國 Belgium 比利時 Russia 俄羅斯
Portugal 葡萄牙 Greece 希臘
Oceania 大洋洲
Contacts
Jim S.Chen 陳基勝
Chile 智利
Asia 亞洲
連絡人
貴州茅台海外經銷商
Cns Enterprise Inc. 美國四季煙酒公司
USA 美國
Australia 澳大利亞 New Zealand 新西蘭
Vietnam 越南
Philippines 菲律賓
80
Contact Point
開啟你的品鑑之旅
MOUTAI Magazine
FAX：001-718-7681118 FAX：0755-25419568-108
FAX：+31 (0) 38 3329045
FAX：+32-3-2264482
FAX ：0084-435683715
215-8877 Odlin Crescent, Richmond, BC, Canada V6X 3Z7
Company Name 公司名稱
U.A.E 阿聯酋
India 印度 Indonesia 印尼
Asia 亞洲
Malaysia 馬來西亞
Myanmar 緬甸
Thailand 泰國
Singapore 新加坡
Hong Kong Macau 香港澳門
Laos 老撾
Hong Kong 香港
Africa 非洲
Macau 澳門
South Africa 南非 Namibia 納米比亞
Contact Point 連絡人
Contacts
Address
聯繫方式
地址
Al Haitham International Trading L.L.C. 阿聯華國際貿易有限公司
Zong Lei 宗磊
TEL：00971-4-2737261 FAX：00971-4-2721109/00852-23683812
P.O.Box 49654, Dubai, U.AA.E
Fortune Middle East Trading Fze 迪拜富勝貿易有限公司
Li Yu-gang 李育剛
TEL：00971-4-8873288/010-84638012 FAX：00971-4-8873466/010-84638256
Lob07-G17, Jebel Ali Free Zone, P,O.Box 18516, Dubai, U.A.E
Hi-Gloss Products International Pvt. Ltd. Hi-Gloss產品國際私人有限公司
Lnayat Khan
TEL：0091-22-65157237/00852-25241339 FAX：0091-22-67421893 67421893/028-87573032
Flat No.7, Pushpa Vvarka Cchs, 97 SV Rrd, Khar (w), Mumbai 400 050, India
Aspri Spirits Pvt. Ltd. 印度神達有限公司
Yan Xiao-bing 晏曉兵
TEL：42505100 FAX：42505101/010-88232677 Website：aspri.org E-mail：mail@aspri.org
301, Lavlesh Court, Pandit Varde Road, Bandra West, Mumbai 400 050, India
Indonesia Yali Fortune Ltd. 印尼雅利財富有限公司
Li Hong-bin 李紅斌
TEL：0062-21 521 3401
Suite 06-01 JI. H.R. Rasunma Said Kav. C-6, Jakarta, Indonesia
Dong Meng Trading Sdn Bhd 馬來西亞東盟貿易有限公司
Hong Qi-feng 洪其豐
TEL：006-03-33433139/0755-83289843 FAX：006-03-33413841/0755-83287229
Suite #19-03, Level 19, centro, 8 Jalan Batu Tiga Lama 41300 Klang, Selangor Darul Ehsan, Malaysia
New Market Marketing Sdn Bhd 新市場發展有限公司
Nikki Li
TEL：603-33434545/00852-91281943 FAX：603-33434542/00852-28775108
C/O-Shipco Transport Sdn Bhd, Port Kelang, No.2-3,Jalan Tiara 2A, Bandar Baru Klang, 41150, Klang, Selangor Darul Ehsan, Port Kelang, Malaysia
Myanmar Donn Donn Mann Company 緬甸敦敦國際貿易有限公司
Hu Zu-guo 胡祖國
TEL：00951-227780
771, Kwong Tung Main Street, Yangon, Myanmar
Myanmar Tunfat International Co., Ltd. 緬甸敦發國際有限公司
Zeng Guo-qing
TEL：00959-2001386
Hua Sern Trading Co., Ltd. 泰國华晟貿易有限公司
Lin Shao-wei 林少偉
TEL：13925-225000/ 0066-29325866 FAX：0066-29325968/ 0755-82158225
No.108 Sangkhom Songkrol Road, Ladphrao, Bangkok 10230, Thailand
Siam Dragon (Asia-Pacific) Co., Ltd. 泰國暹龍有限公司
Rocky Lau
TEL：+66(0)2682 5981-4
896/11 8th floor, SV city Tower 1, Rama 3 Road, Bang ping pang, Yannawa, Bangkok 10120, Thailand.
Yongxing Intertrade Co., Ltd. 泰國永鑫國際貿易有限公司
Wang Jing-hui 王京會
TEL：0066-26925158 FAX：00662-6925159 Website：www.suramoutai.com E-mail：jodirek@hotmail.com
169/85 Ratchadaphisek Road, Dindeng, Bangkok, Thailand 10400
Kim Sing Co. Pte Ltd. 金星有限公司
Qiu Shun-li 邱順立
TEL：0065-68422212 FAX ：0065-68422215 Website：www.kimsing.sg E-mail：kimsingco@gmail.com
54 Genting Lane #01-01 Ruby Land Complex, Singapore 349562
Wint Thai Trading Pte Ltd. 金益龍有限公司
Zheng Wen-yuan 鄭文遠
TEL：00603-62992860
100 Jalan Sultan #08-14 Sultan Plaza, Singapore 19900
Singapore Moutai Baijiu Pte Ltd. 新加坡茅台白酒有限公司
Yun Wei-long 雲偉龍
TEL：0065-68442756 FAX：0065-68441561 Website：www.singaporemoutai.com E-mail：jeffrey@chinabaijiu.sg
560, Sims Avenus, Singapore 387594
Lao Sts Import & Export Sole Co., Ltd. 老撾Sts進出口貿易有限公司
Chen Yu-sheng 陳育生
FAX：0871-7018488 E-mail：laowosks@yahoo.cn
Nahair Village, Sikhotttabong District, Vientaine Capital City, Lao P.D.R
Hai Luen Trading Co. (HK) Ltd. 海聯供應有限公司
Zhang Ning 張寧
TEL：00852-2545 1135
FAX：00852-2815 0594
17/F, King Kong Commercial Centre, 9 Des Voeux Road West, Western District, Hong Kong
China Moutai Professional Store (HK) Ltd. 國酒茅台專賣店（香港）有限公司
Lin Yong-hui 林永惠
TEL：00852-2512 8311
FAX：00852-2512 8021
Shop B, G/F, Kingsfield Mansion, 457-459 King’s Road, North Point, Hong Kong
Top Gainer Industrial Limited 利佳實業有限公司
Liu Wei 劉偉
TEL：00852-6856 5506
FAX：00852-2411 5688
Room 302B, TCL Tower, 8 Tai Chung Road, Tsuen Wan, Hong Kong
Shum Yip Li Jun Co., Ltd. 深業麗晶有限公司
Huang Bao-mei 黃寶妹
TEL：00852-2721 6373
FAX：00852-2311 8367
Room 2006, 2/F, Lippo Centre, Admiralty, Hong Kong
Glory Regent Industries Ltd. 高正實業有限公司
Guo Zhen-ming 郭鎮銘
TEL：00852-2377 9822
FAX：00852-2377 2421
Room 1110-1111, 11/F, The Metropolis Tower, 10 Metropolis Drive, Hung Hom, Hong Kong
China Foods (Hong Kong) Limited 中國食品（香港）有限公司
Ms. Lei 雷小姐
TEL：00852-2512 1030
FAX：00852-2512 8021
Top Floor, Kingsfield Mansion, 457-459 King’s Road, North Point, Hong Kong
Camus La Grande Marque 法國卡慕公司
Fanny Chou
TEL：00852-2831 1500
FAX：00852-2833 6498
Room 1701-03, 17/F, Two Chinachem Exchange Square, 338 King’s Road, North Point, Hong Kong
Win Dragon Enterprise International Ltd. 香港騰龍企業國際有限公司
Mao Ying-zhuang 毛應壯
TEL：00852-2770 5199
FAX：00852-2770 9855
Room 1004, 10/F, Omega Plaza, 32-34A Dundas Street, Mongkok, Hong Kong
John Daniel Holdings Limited 香港聚德行有限公司
Ms. Bao 包小姐
TEL：00852-2529 1880
FAX：00852-2527 0099/00852-9050 7004
Room 1204-07, 12/F, Shui On Centre, 6-8 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong
Hong Kong China National Duty Free Merchandise Co., Ltd. 香港中國免稅品有限公司
Ke Hai-biao 柯海彪
TEL：00852-2721 6131
FAX：00852-2721 0823
Room 702B-C, 7/F, East Ocean Centre, 98 Granville Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong
Hong Kong Moutai Club Limited 香港國酒茅台之友協會
Li Xue-yan 李雪燕
TEL：00852-2357 4688
FAX：00852-3102 2054
Room 3A, 1/F, Wah Shing Centre, 11 Shing Yip Street, Kwun Tong, Hong Kong
Tin Wai (Fine Wines)International Trading 天偉（酒業）國際貿易公司
Chen Ji-yu 陳基鈺
TEL：00852-2377 9943
FAX：00852-3188 0979
Room 1304, 13/F, Hang Bong Commercial Building, 28 Shanghai Street, Jordan, Hong Kong
Hong Kong Ying Li Coffee Wine Limited 香港英利咖啡酒有限公司
Ji Yan-li 計豔莉
TEL：00852- 2111 0799
FAX：00852-3102 2054
Room 3A-3C, 1/F, Wah Shing Centre, 11 Shing Yip Street, Kwun Tong, Hong Kong
Swh Import & Export Company Limited 澳門新偉浩進出口貿易有限公司
Ou Bo-lai 區柏來
TEL：00853-2822 1155
FAX：00853-2885 5981
Shop J, G/F, Treasure Garden, Avenida Dr. Sun Yat Sen, Taipa, Macau
Nam Kwong Commercial Co., Ltd. 南光貿易有限公司
Zheng Guan-min 鄭觀民
TEL：00853-8391 1408
FAX：00853-2833 0854
14/F, Nam Kwong Building, 223-225 Avenida do Dr. Rodrigo Rodrigues, Macau
Resources United 資源聯合
Liang Hong-xiang 梁鴻翔
Mobile：13901146970
Quickstep Development Cc. 南非極速
Ms. Li 李小姐
TEL：0027-849-297888/00852-81418122 FAX：0027-11-6169728/00852-81676715
Unit 26 Bedford Place,19 Sovereign Street, Bedford View 2007, Johannesburg, R. South Africa
Namibia Oriental Tobacoo Cc. 納米比亞東方煙草
Lin Jin-dan 林金淡
TEL：00264-81222888 00264-61-223108 FAX：00264-61-265232/0871-5710068
Ugab Building, 12th Street, Industrial Area, Erf 3742 Walvis Bay, Namibia, South Africa
FAX：0062-21 521 3401
FAX：00951-222132 FAX：00952-5153587/06924121889
FAX：+66(0)26828522
FAX：00603-62992879/00852-26360815
FAX：010-67092960
H(248), Bet:50th - 51st Street, KaNaungMin TharGyiSt, Industial Zone(2), Mandalay, Myanmar
11 Rosenheim Robinson Street, Durbanville 7550, South Africa
Note: The list was last updated in February 2013. Please contact us if you have any queries. 注：本名錄最後更新日期為2013年2月，如有疑問請聯繫我們，謝謝！
Address地址：9/F, No. 2 Yanwu Street, Yunyan District, Guiyang City, Guizhou Province, 550004 China 貴州省貴陽市雲岩區鹽務街2號9層，550004 Tel電話：+86 851 6776033 Fax傳真：+86 851 6820698 E-mail電郵：globalmoutai@163.com http://www.moutaichina.com http://www.china-moutai.com
MOUTAI Magazine
81
9pm Hong Kong Time Victoria Harbour A brilliance that transcends the boundaries of time differences. A toast to China. A toast to the world.