Moutai Magazine - International Edition Issue 3 Spring 2014

生命的詠歎 Wallace Chan : The Perfect Cut 陳世英：完美切割

"STRONG" What Putin Prefers 有勁，普京的性格與品位 A Story about Bespoke Tailoring 一個定製的故事

Parisian Reminiscence of an Artistic Century 藝蘊百年 夢迴巴黎 From Wine Tasting to Culture 從品酒到文化

ISSN 2309-6993

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CHINA KWEICHOW MOUTAI DISTILLERY (GROUP) CO., LTD.

Maotai, Renhuai City, Guizhou Province, China 564501

KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD.

Maotai, Renhuai City, Guizhou Province, China 564501 Production & Advertising Sales Agent: ER HONGKONG HOLDING LIMITED Room 2103, 21/F, Sino Plaza, No.255-257 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 3580 2598 Fax: (852) 3580 2588 Consultants : Yuan Renguo, Chen Min, Liu Zili, Zhao Shuyue, Fang Guoxing

Publisher: Francis Wong Chief Executive Officer: Christine Yin Creative Director: Dora Lu Managing Editor: Karen Linda So Project Manager: Nathalie Yee Art Director: Ken Chan Senior Project Editor: Konzen Hou Assistant Project Editor: Nikita Wan Marketing Executive: Denise Chan Interviewer: Ivan Wong Photographers: Konzen Hou, Kaleidoscope Translators: Cathy Lin, Benedict Tsang, Melody Ma, Natalie Wong, Suki Law, Billy Weng Advertising Enquires: Tel: (852) 3580 2598

Email: er-hk@everreliable.net

CONTRIBUTORS

Dong Tiezhu

Craig Au-yeung

Dora Lu

Dong Tiezhu is a holder of Ph.D in Chinese culture at the University of California, Berkeley. Familiar with both Chinese and Western culture, Dong has been teaching Chinese culture at Wofford College (USA) and United International College (Zhuhai).

A cross-media artist who loves life, food and travel. Craig has been on a dedicated research on contemporary home living and architectural design, from which he writes articles that are featured in magazines in China, Hong Kong and Taiwan.

As a holder of Bachelor's degree in Communication and Master's degree in Fine Arts, and a tenured researcher of the Visual Culture Institute, Dora Lu keeps focusing on traditional arts and Chinese liquor culture, and becomes a creative columnist for various newspapers and magazines.

Rights Moutai Magazine (international edition) is published quarterly by ER HONGKONG HOLDING LIMITED under a licence by KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD. Reprints, copy or use of any content in this magazine whether in whole or in part, shall only be allowed with the explicit written permission of KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD. No responsibility can be taken for unsolicited texts and photographs.

The views and opinions expressed or implied in the articles do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher, editors or the licence holder.

All contents in this magazine have been complied with the best of our knowledge, but no warranty or representation is given as to its accuracy, completeness, relevance, timeliness or otherwise.

Moutai Magazine (international edition) appears quarterly with editions published under cooperation or licence in two languages.

Sponsor: Top Gainer Industrial Limited Special Thanks :

Spring Issue 2014 二零一四年春季刊

CHAIRMAN MESSAGE

Great by Choice 卓越是一種選擇 Greatness is not a function of circumstance.

Greatness, it turns out, is largely a matter of conscious choice, and discipline.

This is a quote from the latest book Great by Choice: Uncertainty, Chaos, and Luck – Why Some Thrive Despite Them All of Jim Collins and Morten T. Hansen.

The key of Kweichow Moutai from being a liquor making factory to a globally influential enterprise is to believe in self-determined choice and always insist. Despite how many difficulties and barriers ahead on our way, we never give up.

As having witnessed and participated in the rapid growth of the Asian economy in the past thirty more years, we are not merely making the best distilled liquor, we look for sharing the wisdom and thought of our development, in order to have a greater effect and influence among the top enterprises in the world.

In 2014, people are concerning how Chinese dream comes true, how Asian dream gets started; we believe, it’s all about choice and the power behind the choice.

「卓越，絕不單靠運氣，而是出於刻意的選擇，是堅持紀律的結果。」 這是詹姆．柯林斯及莫頓．韓森在其最新著作《卓越是一種選擇》一書的闡釋。 貴州茅台從一個釀酒坊成長為具有世界影響的知名企業，就是相信自己的選擇並始終堅持。不管前進的道路 上有多大的曲折與險阻，我們從來不輕言放棄。 作為亞洲經濟在過去三十餘年高速增長的見證者和參與者，我們不僅僅只是在釀造最好的蒸餾酒，我們希翼 着分享發展的智慧和思考，在全球一流企業陣營中發揮更大的作用和影響。 2014 年，人們在追問中國的夢想怎樣實現？亞洲的夢想又如何啟航？我們深信，這一切在於選擇與選擇背 後的力量。

YUAN RENGUO 袁仁國

CHAIRMAN OF CHINA KWEICHOW MOUTAI DISTILLERY (GROUP) CO., LTD. and KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD. 中國貴州茅台酒廠（集團）有限責任公司 貴州茅台酒股份有限公司董事長

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This issue of "MOUTAI Magazine" is seeking for the power to keep renewing life. 本期《MOUTAI Magazine》，將探尋讓生命不斷 更新的力量。

Mellow liquor and strong tea; smooth silk and airy fragrance; blank paper and tranquil heart since birth given to life transformed; what kind of suffering and maze to overcome? We look for the ways of gourmet, wine taster, musician and writer to refresh the afternoon time by good liquor. By the bespoke shirt, the vision of the young man from Nairobi to China, the words of the Sinologist, the singing by the Goddess of Beauty of the Miao, an intoxicated spring gives the universe a new life. 醇厚的酒與濃釅的茶；光滑的絲與飄渺的香；空白的紙與靜謐的心；從初生到蛻變，要經歷怎樣的苦難 與浮沉？我們聚焦於美食家和評酒師、音樂人和作家，如何讓美酒的基因喚醒午後的時光。在手工定製 的襯衣中、從內羅畢到中國的青年眼裡、漢學家的筆下和苗族美神的歌聲裡，春風沉醉，萬物重生。

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CONTENT 目錄 05 Chairman Message 刊首語

56 Niangx Eb Sangb, the Goddess of Beauty of the Miao 苗族美神：仰歐桑

NATURE 天 09 Chants for Lives 生命的詠歎

HARMONY 和 62 I Found Myself in China 在中國找回我自己

PEOPLE 人 20 Interview with Influential Chinese Figures

Wallace Chan: The Perfect Cut 中國名人訪談 — 陳世英 : 完美切割

66 The Most Mysterious Bouquet 最神秘的酒香

26 "STRONG" What Putin Prefers 有勁，普京的性格與品位 ETIQUETTE 禮 30 Above & Beyond with Moutai

天外天與茅台 38 A Story about Bespoke Tailoring 一個定製的故事 MUSE 樂 44 Parisian Reminiscence of an Artistic Century 藝蘊百年 夢迴巴黎 50 From Wine Tasting to Culture 從品酒到文化

70 Concept of P.F. Chang’s in Making Chinese Cuisine P.F. Chang's 的中餐主義 74 Craig Au-yeung Column

Braised Pork Rice and Papaya Milk 歐陽應霽專欄 : 魯肉飯與木瓜牛奶 76 Drinking Intellectually 3 : James Cahill’s Valentine 文字飲之三：高居翰和他的情人 78 Moutai on the World Map 茅台在全球 83

China Moutai First Retail Store Grandly Opened in Sydney, Australia 澳洲首家中國茅台酒專賣店 於悉尼盛大開業

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生命的詠歎

TEXT / 文 : 侯康升 TRANSLATION / 譯 : Cathy Lin SPECIAL THANKS / 特別鳴謝 : Fenghuang Tea House 鳳凰茶館

Nirvana of the Phoenix, rise from the ashes.

There is a kind of immortal firebird in the myth, beautiful and lonely; dies in fire every five hundred years; gains peace and joy for human by an end of its own life and beauty, and being reborn from the ashes.

Birds fly over grass, woods starve for sunshine, the world wakes in melting snow, and lives live with sprinklings.

Spring, the season always allows us to feel the extreme mystery and magic of the nature.

Some of the beauties are originated by innocent plant, time passed and they were being lighted up by the universe, gifted with great manner and sense of character, and present with its graceful soul.

They are not essential to keep us alive, but vital to comfort our soul.

Rather than enjoying these spiritual beauties, we sublimate soul by tasting, to get close to the core of living, and express the realizations about the world and life.

Though rebirth is not a must following by sufferings, its power of transcendence shines and composes chants for lives.

鳳凰涅槃，浴火重生。 傳說中，一種美麗而孤獨的不死火鳥， 每五百年，就要接受烈焰的洗禮， 以生命和美麗的終結來換取人世的祥和幸福。 自己的肉身將在灰燼中重生。 草長鶯飛，萬木爭春，世界在冰雪中蘇醒，萬物在雨露中復蘇。 春季，總是讓我們格外領悟到自然的玄妙與造物的神奇。 一些精緻與美好的事物， 它們來源於沒有感知能力的草木， 在歲月的積澱下集天地靈氣煥發生命光彩， 被賦予修養和情操、品位和格調， 靈魂優雅綻放於世人面前。 它們並非我們物質生活的必需品， 卻構成了我們精神世界不可或缺的養料。 與其說我們享受着這些事物的靈性之美， 不如說正是通過體會和感受物質到精神的昇華， 來接近生活的本質，表達對世界的理解及對生命的洞悉。 畢竟，不是所有苦難和磨礪都會造就必然的重生， 但重生的超越性必然會照亮物質，並彙成對生命的詠歎。

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酒

Liquor 在中國源遠流長的釀造史中， 激蕩着泉水的甘甜、 穀物的芳香。 古老的釀造工藝，順應春夏秋冬自然交替的節律， 在神秘、獨特，不可複製的自然環境中世代相傳， 顯示出天、地、人和諧統一的東方神韻。 一年一個週期，集五穀精華、採日月靈氣。 漫長的等待，經生命發酵， 大地上的穀物，得以在時光注視下沉澱出珍貴液體， 這流動的生命在酒窖裡沉默不語， 直到你揭開的一瞬，馥鬱醇香經久不滅。 In the long history of China making liquor, it throughout with sweetness of spring water and aroma of grain.

An ancient technique which follows the rhythm of the seasonal cycle, inherit under the mysterious, unique and unduplicated nature, portrayed the oriental spirit unifying heaven, earth and human.

A cycle a year, with essence of five grains, treasures of the earth.

A long waiting for fermentation, and that grains generate liquid beneath gaze of time, the fluid keeps silent in wine cellar, until you come to it, its aroma would long stay around you.

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絲 Silk

蠶絲，自然界中最輕柔細膩的天然纖維。 採桑養蠶與製絲織綢，是中國古代社會延續千百年的基本勞作。 它的出現，讓人讚歎、更讓人迷惑， 誰也沒有想到，它竟來自動物精靈的饋贈， 作為最初的秘密，就這樣繁華着古老的商業貿易。 沿着通向歐洲的古絲綢之路，它所帶去的， 不僅僅是華美的服飾，更是東方古老的智慧與文明。 春蠶到死絲方盡，它隱含着犧牲； 破繭成蝶，它也意喻着突破與重生。 這些奇妙生靈吐露的精美絕倫的柔軟光澤，彌漫出攝人心魄的美。 Silk a fibre the softest and gentlest in the nature.

A regular work from ancient Chinese society to get silk from silkworms and weave cloths.

It appeared to receive praise and being confusing; with no idea it is a secret gift from creature, as a mystery to get trading flourishing.

Along the Silk Road to Europe, it carries not only gorgeous clothing, but ancient wisdom and culture of the orient.

Silk no more when silkworm dies, that indicates a sacrifice; break out of cocoon and become a butterfly, that also implies breakthrough and rebirth.

These amazing creatures give away their fabulous tender light and reflect breathtaking beauty.

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紙

Paper 輕似蟬翼白如雪，抖似細綢不聞聲。 宋蘇易簡《紙譜》 ：「蜀人以麻，閩人以嫩竹，北人以桑皮， 剡溪以藤，海人以苔，浙人以麥面稻稈，吳人以繭，楚人以楮為紙。」 作為中國輝煌的四大發明之一，紙來源於卑微的草木軀體。 考古發現，遠在西漢早期，中國已有紙的雛形， 進而東漢蔡倫將其完善，作為獻給世界的禮物， 它用輕盈身軀承載着沉重歷史，傳播着人類文明。 在它迷人質感的表面，顯示出無法比擬的精神界域， 激發着永恆的想像與創造。 Filmy light weight and snowy white, silky soft to shaking with no sound.

Zhi Pu (A book about Paper) written by Su Yijian from the Song Dynasty: "Act as paper, people from Sichuan use hemp; from Fujian use green bamboo; from northern part use skin of the mulberry tree; from Shaoxing, Zhejiang use vine; from Zhejiang use straw; from Suzhou use silk; from Hubei surroundings use the paper mulberry tree, and fishermen use seaweed."

As a distinguished one of the Four Great Inventions, paper is originated from humble plants.

Archaeology proved China had prototypes of paper far from the early Western Han Dynasty, and perfected by Cai Lun in Eastern Han Dynasty that dedicated to the world as a gift; it carries the heavy history by its thin body, to disseminate human civilization.

On its textural surface, constructed an unimaginable spiritual domain, inspiring eternal imaginations and creations.

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茶 Tea

飲茶，一種東方古老的生活方式， 可追溯至神農時代，距今已逾五千年歷史。 在中國西南幽谷之地， 不乏千年古茶樹於雲霧繚繞間汲取天地靈氣， 它們將隱秘的芬芳凝聚在每一枚細小的葉片。 採摘之後，往往還要守望一個世紀的滄桑變幻， 方能成就這稀世百年老茶。 看似寂寥枯敗，實則孕育生機， 唯有與鐵壺、瓷杯、泉水交織的一刻， 它將綻放生命的光澤，歲月的風華， 醇厚、陳香，誰將這融化的瑪瑙喝下， 誰也將歷史的大風大浪喝下。 Drinking tea is a lifestyle of ancient orient, tracking back to Shennong age; it is already over five thousand years ago.

Between the valleys in Southwest China, many thousands-year-old tea trees are absorbing clear air, and condense hidden fragrance into every small piece of leaf.

After picked, there is a century of waiting to gain the rare hundred-year-old tea.

Seems drain to death, but still life inside, only the moment matching with iron kettle, tea china and spring water, it will blossom the light of life, charm of years, mellow with rich aroma; who drank this fluid agate, who drank the twists and turns in history.

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香

Fragrance 沉香，質地潤澤，堅如磐石， 味微苦，可入藥，燃燒時氣味沁人心脾， 最昂貴的法國香水，必定沉澱着數不清的沉香樹的生命。 沉香非木，卻是樹木創傷的眼淚， 在寂靜的大地深處，經千百年沉積而成， 這經歷了浴火重生洗禮後樹木生命的延續， 高貴、深沉，與人間流逝的歲月始終相伴。 如果你理解了它的苦難，你就理解了它的榮光。 如果說時間是有重量的，那麼，它的價值的確只能用光陰換算。 Agilawood which is glossy, hard like rock, bitter, could be used as medicine and smell fresh when burning; the most expensive French perfume, must be burying countless lives of agilawood.

Agilawood is not wood, but tears of wood, deposited over thousands years at the silent depths underground, continuing woods’ life after its death, elegant and deep, always accompany the time passed.

With understanding of how it suffered, you have understanding of its glory.

If time has weight, how heavy it is, how valuable it is.

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Interview with Influential Chinese Figures

中國名人訪談

Wallace Chan

The Perfect Cut 陳世英 : 完美切割 TEXT / 文 : Ivan Wong PHOTO / 攝 : Kaleidoscope TRANSLATION / 譯 : Cathy Lin SPECIAL THANKS / 特別鳴謝 : Wallace Chan Beyond Jewelry

Wallace Chan is the first and only Chinese ever invited to participate in the Biennale des Antiquaires, and he was also the first contemporary jewelry artist to hold a solo exhibition at the Capital Museum in Beijing, China. As an artist who focuses only on creation, Wallace Chan always keeps a low profile. He invented the one-of-a-kind “Wallace Cut” (a carving technique which creates an illusion in transparent materials combining medieval cameo and intaglio into 3-dimension engraving) in 1987, but it was not before the Baselworld jewelry exhibition in 2007 that he truly made his name. In Baselworld, he presented a series of jewelry pieces created using titanium as the structure, which was the result of his 8-year research and experiment on the mastery of titanium. Alongside his creations, the secrets to his titanium technique were also unveiled to international audience.

Wallace Chan’s philosophy is full of Zen spirit, he believes in the power of Nature, as well as destiny, this interview, in which he shares his ideas on jewelry art and Chinese culture with us, seems to be another destined rendezvous.

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「駿愛相隨」胸針（Brooch "Entrancing Love"）

陳世英（Wallace Chan）是首位兼唯一一位華人獲邀參加巴黎古董雙年展（Biennale des Antiquaires），亦是首位 於中國北京首都博物館舉行個人展覽的當代珠寶藝術家。陳世英無疑是個潛心創作的藝術家，作風低調，他早於 1987 年已研發出寶石切割的獨門絕技── Wallace Cut「世英切割」 （立體內雕和幻象雕刻法）。2007 年於瑞士巴塞爾 （Baselworld）珠寶展中，陳世英公開了以鈦金屬作為珠寶骨幹的製作技術研究成果，並展出一系列以鈦金屬為骨幹的 作品，真正讓世人看到他的精湛造詣。陳世英的人生觀充滿禪意，他相信大自然的力量，更相信緣份，正如這次能與 茅台結緣分享他對珠寶藝術與中國文化心得，亦可說是上天一個巧妙的安排。

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allace Chan’s interest in carving began when he was young, he would take an eraser and carve on it. He smiled and said, “I often got punished by my teacher, who would make me copy the same text many times. I thought to myself that if I could make a stamp with the eraser, it would save me a lot of time copying.” It did not work of course, but it has constituted this Jewelry Master today. Wallace Chan grew up watching his uncle carve, “Seeing that he used different carving knives to create various images every day, like the Eight Immortals, Guanyin, Dragon and Phoenix etc., I thought to myself that it might be a good idea to carve for a living.” Wallace Chan did not come from a rich family, he started working in his teens, and it was in early 70s. As his uncle told him that the prospect of ivory industry was not good, he chose to apprentice for a gemstone sculptor. Wallace Chan’s creation is a mixture of Chinese and Western elements, and this is the result of the foundation laid in his early years. His understanding of the ivory carving culture in ancient China enriched his sense of Chinese culture, at the same time, he started to learn and explore the charm of the Western world. “One day, I discovered a book on Michelangelo’s sculptures, which introduced another world to me.

I started to self-study carving techniques in Western style. How to learn without a teacher though? I went to cemeteries to observe gravestones and sculptures depicting angels and human figures.” Wallace Chan found the facial expressions and draperies of Western sculptures very different from those in China. He explained, “Everything we see is realistic, but once the images meet the eye and reach the heart, they are reborn to your creativity and craftsmanship.”

Short hair, round face and long beard, the look of Wallace Chan easily reminds people of Chinese painting master Chang Dai-chien, or some ancient poets. Although he combined Chinese and Western cultures to form his creations, it is hard not to make people think that he may actually favour Chinese culture a bit more. But that is just our illusion, he analyzed the difference between two cultures neutrally, explaining that one of the differences between the two cultures regarding artworks in the past can be about their approaches to movements. “Oriental art in the past was comparatively static, even when Giuseppe Vastiglione the Italian came to China, his paintings “Landscape with Horses” and “Ten Prized Dogs” etc. show very calm qualities, but the sculptures in the West tend to show more movements… Xu Beihong and Giuseppe Vastiglione are different also, each ink-drop of Xu Beihong moves – it is the result of long years of practice that makes the horses look as if they were running swift.” Wallace Chan said that there is not a clear boundary between the East and the West nowadays, the two cultures have merged as one and created another form of existence.

This saying is well-proved by his very own creations.

Flying Apsaras of Dunhuang Many people find the artworks of Wallace Chan showing traces of Chinese artistic elements like Dunhuang murals, Chinese ink paintings in Song Dynasty or even the simplistic style in Ming and Qing Dynasty etc., Wallace

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Chan does not find such assumption a surprise. “I feel that it is important to have a modern sense in order to break through traditions. I did imitate Dunhuang murals in the past, but what you see in my works that resembles such style may be an abstract memory of the Dunhuang ribbons or Flying Apsaras. If you look carefully, you can see through the 2 dimensional form and notice the 3 dimensional colors and setting which create a modern feel.” Wallace Chan knows how to communicate his experience and memory directly with gemstones, which in turn inspires limitless creativity and ideas. But he emphasized that breakthroughs were the most important.

The First The Jewelry Master desires only breakthroughs, not wealth or fame, but he was chosen by destiny to be an internationally renowned jewelry artist: he became the first and only Chinese artist ever invited to participate in the Biennale des Antiquaires in 2012. It certainly came with joy and excitement, but it also came with great pressure being bestowed the responsibility to represent China. “I was thinking to myself: could I really handle this? After having accepted the invitation, my concern became the sourcing of materials – where could I find extraordinary materials for my creations? I was exhibiting alongside world famous brands and it took extremely fine materials to match up the Biennale’s grandeur.” Luckily, Wallace Chan’s friends were all very helpful. They found for him materials of top quality to accomplish this “Chinese first time”. For a very long time, Hong Kong, or even China, has been seen as an original equipment manufacturer, but this exhibition experience has changed the views of many on Chinese jewelry. Besides, Wallace Chan’s helpful friends included not only Chinese and Hongkongese, “in fact, I have friends from different countries who have always been keen on promoting Chinese culture.”

Chinese Tradition, French Aura 2014 marks the 50th anniversary of diplomatic relations between France and China, this year, Wallace Chan has also been invited back to the Biennale des Antiquaire, and he is still the only Chinese jewelry artist invited to exhibit. These years, he has participated in many cultural events held in France (including the celebration event for the 50th anniversary of diplomatic relations between France and China held in the Senate). When asked about how to integrate Chinese and French culture, he expressed, “there are actually many French brands that are interested in Chinese culture, I think the two countries should organize more visiting tours to China, for the artists to bring Chinese culture to France…My experience of participating in the Biennale tells me that, when you are valued, people respect you; and we Chinese should learn to respect other cultures and art as well, so that our own art and culture can elevate to a level that is even higher.”

Wallace Chan emphasized, “People seem to have forgotten that a Chinese brand can demonstrate both Chinese traditions and Western aura -- this is something that we need to let people know… From the carving, metallurgy,

gemstone cutting to the finishing of a jewelry piece, one should be able to feel the wisdom, philosophy and craftsmanship of a culture, as well as its spirit and persistence.”

An Eternal Brand

「百谷神姬」戒指（Ring "Goddess of Harvest"）

「情幔」耳環（Earring "Vermillion Veil"）

Although Wallace Chan humbly defines himself as “not yet successful”, we have a lot to learn from this Jewelry Master on the subject of Chinese brands, “We first need to know our strengths and weaknesses, after knowing that, we empty ourselves out and enter a selfless state of mind.

We look at the world with an open mind to learn about other brands and their creations, especially the creations from the first generation of each brand. It is because that sometimes the brands, after 2 or 3 generations, are taken over by financial groups, which means that the operation is simply following a routine… If we only imitate other people’s successful paths, we

will always appear as a brand that imitates, and that will be what the brand is known for. A successful brand should always be original, and for the brand to be eternal, the endless creativity must come from the heart.”

How about Kweichow Moutai? As a brand representing the thousand-year culture of liquor making in Kweichow, should it be crowned “eternal”?

Wallace Chan seldom drinks. But when asked about Moutai, he spoke with respect. His first rendezvous with Moutai happened to take place in Paris!

“Mr Christian Deydier, President of the Biennale, shared his much valued Moutai with me. I seldom drink, but I know how strong Moutai is. When I took a sip of it, I felt that it was really pure. The Moutai on my tongue excited my taste buds, the taste of alcohol rushed to the top of my nose, at that confusing and exciting moment, I discovered Chinese culture – it can be solid, substantial, but at the same time, it can also be paradoxical, leaving you perplexed – which is in fact a very enjoyable feeling.” It seems that art and fine wine are inseparable.

MOUTAI Magazine

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PEOPLE 人

陳世英先生（左）與法國前總統希拉克合照 （Wallace Chan（left）and Jacques Chirac, the Former President of France）

陳世英先生（右）與法國前總統夫人希拉克夫人合 照（Wallace Chan（right）and Madame Jacques Chirac, the Former First Lady of France）

歲定八十，陳世英年少時已對雕刻產生興趣，上學

便一直在動、一直在淡化，這是要經多年鍛鍊，才能營造出這

時總拿著小刀子以橡膠擦為材料來雕呀雕。他笑說：

似是而非的效果，彷彿永遠也可看到馬在奔騰。」陳世英認為

「那時常被罰抄書，心想若雕了個印章出來，便不用

今時今日的東西方藝術文化已可說是一體；在兩者共存的情況

抄得那麼苦了。」這妙計當然失敗，但卻成就了日後的珠寶藝 術大師。 進入珠寶行業當學徒，全因每天看着當象牙雕刻師的叔 父 也 在 雕 呀 雕 ：「 看 見 他 每 天 用 不 同 刀 具 雕 出 那 麼 多 不 同 的 造型，如八仙、觀音和龍鳳等，便心想，如我將來也能以雕 刻為生也不錯。」陳世英家境並不富裕，於 1970 年代初，這 十來歲小伙子便要投身社會，他叔父說象牙業前景並不樂觀， 結果他便選擇了當寶石雕刻學徒。細看今天陳世英的作品， 不難發現他融會了中西文化種種最精要的元素，原來早在那 些年已奠下堅實的根基。從接觸中國古代的象牙雕刻文化， 陳世英開始投入中國文化的懷抱。同時，他也開始認識及探 索西方文化精妙之處：「有天在書局發現一本講及米開朗基羅 的雕塑書籍，驚覺那是另一個世界，我便開始鑽研西方的雕 刻技術，亦開始自學。沒有師父教，怎辦？唯有走到墳場去， 那裡的墓碑有天使也有人像。」陳世英領悟到那些雕像神態及 衣服紋理，跟我們中國的雕刻手法完全不同，「我們眼睛所涉 獵的是寫實的，但當進入心靈後，便是透過你的創意、工藝 等，演繹自然的二次生命。」

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陳世英先生（左）與法國前總統尼古拉．薩爾科齊合照 （Wallace Chan（left）and Nicolas Sarkozy, the Former President of France）

下，已產生了另一個生態。他的作品足以印證這個說法。

敦煌飛天 常有人認為其作品中蘊含像敦煌壁畫、宋朝水墨、甚至明 清簡約等中國最尖藝術元素，陳世英認為人們有這種感覺是很 自然的事。 「對我來說，因為要超越傳統，便要建立現代的氣 息……我從前的確是臨摹過敦煌的雕刻或佛像，但今天你在我 的作品中看到的，可能是像那些雲彩般的飄帶，具體來說那是 一種敦煌飛天的飄逸記憶，當你細緻地觀看的話，平面形態以 外，還會在色彩及立體鑲嵌的層面上，感受到那破格而出的現 代效果。」陳世英很懂得在生活上深化自己，讓自己的經驗與 記憶直接與原材料（如寶石）溝通後，便自然會誘發出無窮創 意與概念，但他強調，最重要的是作品能否有所突破。

中國珠寶藝術第一人 珠寶藝術大師只求突破而淡薄名利，上天卻在 2012 年為 陳世英安排一個最具成就的國際級肯定：成為首位及唯一一位

看陳世英那短髮圓面長長虯髯的外形，多少叫人聯想到國

獲邀參加巴黎古董雙年展的華人珠寶藝術家。十年寒窗無人

畫大師張大千，或是更古舊的騷人墨客，雖說他在創作上能融

問，一舉成名天下知，破格而出當然喜出望外，但要背負為中

會貫通中西方文化，但總讓人認為他在中西文化之間，始終也

國人爭光的使命，陳世英也無法卸下現實中的沉重壓力。 「當時

是對中國文化有所偏愛的。其實，那只是我們的錯覺，他不

在想，我能否勝任呢？接受邀請之後，又要擔心從哪裡找來那

偏不倚的道出東西方藝術存在的分野，其中一點是不同時代對

些高級材料為展覽做創作呢？在展場中我的毗鄰是蜚聲國際的

動與靜的主觀取向：「從前，東方藝術都是比較靜態的，縱使

高級珠寶品牌，作品中沒有貴重寶石的話，怎去呈現相當的氣

（意大利人）郎世寧來到中國，他所繪畫的《八駿馬》、《十駿

派？」幸好，不少好友拔刀相助，為他找來上佳的原材料，完

犬》等，都是靜態的多，而西方雕塑多展現動的一面……又說

成了那中國人的第一次。 「香港或中國向來只有為海外的珠寶作

徐悲鴻跟郎世寧的分別，徐悲鴻是靜中帶動的，一下畫筆，墨

加工的份兒……但這次展出改變了很多人對中國珠寶的觀念。」

MOUTAI Magazine

而且，為他搜羅寶石材料的也不單是香港人或中國人：「其實 有很多外國朋友，也有鼎力相助，支持中國文化的推廣。」

中國傳統 法國韻味

永恆的品牌 縱然陳世英謙抑的以「尚未成功」自居；但說到中國品牌， 我們也得向這位被譽為「中國珠寶藝術第一人」大師取經，給 中國品牌邁向國際引路：「我們必需先認識自己的實力、長處

適逢中法建交 50 周年，陳世英再度應邀參加巴黎古董雙

及短處，具備這認知之後更要放空自己，放眼世界，看別人

年展，這次他仍是展覽中的唯一華人珠寶藝術家。這些年來，

的品牌、別人的創作，尤其是看藝術家的創作，即是說品牌

他亦參與了由法國方面舉辦的不少文化活動（包括中法建交 50

的（始創者）第一代，那是品牌的代表，而品牌的第二代、第

年在參議院的慶祝活動），對中國與法國文化應如何融合，他

三代可能已由財團掌管了，即是說，那只是經營著前人所走的

獨具真知灼見：「其實很多法國品牌也很嚮往中國文化，中法 之間應舉辦更多的中國藝術訪問團，由具備藝術情懷的藝術 家，把中國文化帶到法國去……在巴黎的參展經驗告訴我，藝 術無疆界，當你的創作受到重視時，那裡所有人都會向你致 敬。我們中國人也一定要學懂尊重別人的文化藝術，我們本身 的文化藝術才得以提升。」 陳世英也強調：「人們似乎忽略了，中國人自己的文化品 牌中，可以兼具獨特的西方韻味及中國傳統，而這點是需要宣 揚的……由雕刻、冶金、寶石切割，直至珠寶的呈現，從中可 體會到一個文化的智慧、思想及工藝，對珠寶創作的毅力，以 及所投入的精神。」

路……若你一開始便在模仿，走著別人的成功之路，那麼別人 永遠都視你為模仿的品牌。一個成功的品牌，應抱有原創的理 念，只有從自己內心出發的那源源不絕的創意，才是永恆。」 那麼，代表著貴州千百年釀酒文化的貴州茅台，應稱得上 是永恆吧？「茅台是一種國粹！」陳世英平素滴酒不沾，但說 到茅台，也立生敬意；而他第一次與國酒邂逅，居然在法國巴 黎：「那次雙年展主席 Christian Deydier 拿出他很珍而重之的 一瓶茅台出來款待我。我平日不喝酒，也知道茅台很濃烈。但 當把酒喝下時，發覺它很醇和，酒在我舌尖上，像在刺激我舌 頭，又讓口腔的酒味衝上鼻頭，在這種渾沌、刺激又不知就裡 的狀況下，我發覺到，那便是中國文化——可以是很實在的， 但同時又似是而非、讓你不知所措；一種會令你覺得很是享受 的狀態。」藝術與美酒，似乎真的不能分割。

"A successful brand should have its own idea and endless creativity from one’s heart to be eternal."

「 一個成功的品牌，應抱有自我的理念， 只有從自己內心出發的那源源不絕創意，才是永恆的。」

MOUTAI Magazine

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PEOPLE 人

"STRONG"

What Putin Prefers

有勁 普京的性格與品位 TEXT / 文：old Hou & Kangsheng IMAGE / 圖：Rama Nevertime Imagine China TRANSLATION / 譯 : Cathy Lin

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MOUTAI Magazine

"Moutai is excellent, and that Chinese liquors are very strong."

「茅台很好，中國的酒很有勁。」

Russian President Vladimir Putin showed his understanding and appreciation in Moutai twice on the other day when having an interview. To this energetic tough man, there is probably nothing else is much more "strong" to represent him and prove his sense of style. He defines the trend and changes the era by being "strong". He became the sexiest and the most charming man all over Russia. 在日前的採訪中，普京兩次表達出對茅台酒的了解和喜愛。對於這位精力充沛的硬漢總統來說，沒 有什麼比「有勁」更能代表他的形象，沒有什麼比「有勁」更能體現他的品位，他用這種「有勁」的性 格來定義着時尚、改變着時代，成為全俄羅斯最性感和最有魅力的男人。

MOUTAI Magazine

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PEOPLE 人

百達翡麗（Patek-Philippe）

寶珀（Blancpain）

ince Putin has been the President of Russia, we might see this President with unique sense of style has never been leisure.

Besides driving train and submarine, he flew a warplane up to the sky in 2005, shot tigers in a mountain in 2008, swam like butterfly in lake in 2009, went fishing in a stream in Siberia and rode a Harley-Davidson motorcycle in Ukraine in 2010. Since 2000, he visits different judo schools over Russia and shows off his skill in wrestling and judo.

Perhaps, he is just a legend. Those reveal the full energy and extraordinary ability of Putin, and that is the hero type Russian citizen admire.

In 2010, Putin took a plane to inspect the progress of putting out fire in Ryazan Oblast. He was first observing the situation in the cabin by thermal vision cameras. But then after the plane took off, he entered into the cockpit and sat next to the pilot to take charge of the operation by himself.

During the half an hour flight, he got 12 tons of water each twice from the Oka River, and sprayed over the 2 fire scenes in the woods located at the countryside of Ryazan Oblast. At the end, the fire extinguished but the fire of President has been setting on.

Marry to a Man Like Putin In early 2002, a pop song "A man like Putin" became a hit across Russia, and it was being frequently played on radio stations. To Russian women, Putin is the sexiest and the most charming man in Russia.

As the head of a country, outfits are not just clothing but reflect sense of style of the president or even represent image of the country.

This fashion man on "TIME magazine" is leading the trend. He meticulously selects his outfits from suit to shirt, tie to shoes and even sportswear and sunglasses. He would wear fine long coat and also normal short windbreaker. Sometimes he puts on flying wear to drive a plane, sailor wear to sail, judogi to wrestle or camouflage uniform just like a soldier. When he is in the mood, he would even take off his top to feel the nature with his strong body.

This interesting shot would definitely not be missed by photographer.

Once the picture of Putin half-naked walking along the river published, everyone’s mouth and all media were keep talking about it. We should have admitted we are actually jealous of this 60-year-old man.

Putin always shows his love of Swiss watches and he owns some of them like Patek-Philippe and Blancpain. He said, "I wanted the Moscow government, local authorities and the federal executive departments of the Russian Federation to keep running like Swiss watches." No one could deny the influences brought by Putin to the present Russia; his habit of wearing watch in right hand had even become a trend in the upper class of Russia.

傑尼亞（Zegna）

There was a student had ask him, "What a President wanted to do but not allowed to do?" Putin admitted with a smile, "Something exceeds the constitutional boundaries but sometimes I really wanted to do." He is honest, true and brave to be himself. At the same time he needs courage to tell the secret, it deserves us to think about.

Choice of a Tough Man What more interesting is, Putin talked about tea and alcohol with the reporter Shui Junyi who came from China in the joint interview before the Winter Olympics games held. The Russian president jokingly said to him, "Mr. Reporter, we have prepared Moutai for you." Shui laughed. At the time serving tea, he continued, "Moutai is excellent, and that Chinese liquors are very strong." Putin said, last time when celebrating his birthday, he drank Vodka with President Xi Jinping and they even had sandwiches like university students.

Vodka the national drink of Russia has an alcohol content of 35-50% while Moutai the national drink of China contains 53%. Although it seems not easy to carry, the proportion of water and alcohol is perfect.

Raw materials of Moutai used are all organic grain, fermented in a natural way and being distilled at high temperatures, no extra substances added during the complicated and mysterious blending process, which results a healthy quality that the liquor is rich and mellow, does not cause any burning throat, dry mouth or headache. To a tough man, health is much more important than everything. Meanwhile, it has to be strong enough and deserve you to conquer.

People in high level choose high alcohol content; Moutai always receives praise from leaders of different countries with no doubt this tough-man President Putin is included.

As he knows, only if you have sense, you have sense of style.

茅台酒（Moutai）

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菲拉格慕（Ferragamo）

起來，自從登上總統寶座以來，這位品位獨特的總統 就沒閒着。 又是開火車，又是開潛艇，2005 年更誇張地駕戰機展 翅藍天；2008 年於深山射虎；2009 年到湖中蝶泳；在 2010 年更 是雙管齊下，一面在西伯利亞的小河邊甩杆釣魚，悠閒度假，一 面在烏克蘭騎着哈雷電單車展示速度與激情。2000 年以來，他還 在俄羅斯各地的柔道學校，大展其摔跤和柔道的技術。 彷彿，他從來就是一個傳說。這顯露出普京充沛的精力和非 凡的能力，這正是俄羅斯民眾所崇拜的英雄類型。 2010 年，普京乘飛機到粱贊州視察滅火工作。開始時，普京 坐在機艙內的熱視儀前觀察火災情況。飛機起飛後，普京索性進 入駕駛艙並坐在副駕駛座位，親自參加滅火工作。在半個小時的 飛行期間，兩次從奧卡河中取水各 12 噸，在粱贊郊區 2 個森林火 場上空灑水滅火。最後，火滅了，總統卻火紅起來了。

嫁人就嫁普京這樣的人 2002 年初，俄羅斯一首流行歌曲在全國範圍迅速竄紅，成為

普 京 微 笑 着 坦 承 ：「 不 能 超 越 憲 法 的 範 圍 ， 但 有 時 很 想 這 樣 做。」以一貫誠實、坦率和勇敢的態度做自己；他需要勇氣來透 露這個內心的秘密，同時也值得我們細細品味。

多家電台的流行金曲，歌名便是《嫁人就嫁普京這樣的人》。在俄 羅斯婦女心目中，普京是全俄羅斯最性感和最有魅力的男人。 對於一個國家的首腦來說，穿著可能並不只是服飾那麼簡 單；得當與否更會直接反映出國家首腦的品位，有時甚至相當於 一個國家的形象。 這個《時代週刊》上的時尚先生，從西裝到襯衫、從領帶到

硬漢的選擇 最有趣的是，在冬奧會前夕的聯合採訪中，普京與來自中國 的記者水均益聊起了茶與酒。普京幽默地說：「記者先生，我們 為你準備了茅台。」水均益聽後開懷大笑。在接下來的一次送茶

皮鞋、從運動服到太陽鏡都一絲不苟，引領着時尚潮流。他會穿

時，普京又接着說：「茅台很好，中國的酒很有勁。」普京透露，

普通的短風衣，也會穿縫製考究的長大衣；有時，他會換上飛行

上次過生日，他與習近平主席一起喝了伏特加，兩人像大學生一

服來駕駛飛機，穿上海員服出海，或是穿上柔道服摔跤；還有時

樣，喝的時候還配着三文治。

像士兵一樣換上迷彩服飾。興起之時，他又會脫掉上衣，索性讓 自己健壯的身體與大自然來個親密接觸。 攝影師當然不會錯過這樣的精彩鏡頭，普京在河邊漫步的半 裸照片一亮相，街頭巷尾、報紙網站電視台等所有媒體都可謂議 論不斷。對於這個 60 歲的男人，不得不承認，我們有些嫉妒。

俄羅斯國酒伏特加，酒精濃度不過 35-50% 之間，而中國國 酒茅台則高達 53%，儘管看起來難以馴服，但這卻是水與酒精結 合的完美度數。 加上茅台酒全部採用有機糧食為原料，經天然發酵和高溫蒸 餾而成，繁複而神秘的調配過程中，不添加任何外來物質，這使

普京從不掩飾對瑞士手錶的鍾愛，他擁有百達翡麗和寶珀

得酒液柔和醇香，入口後不辣喉、不口乾及不頭痛的健康品質。

等世界名錶。普京說：「我想要莫斯科的政府、地方政府和俄聯

對於一個硬漢來說，沒有什麼比健康更重要的了。當然，它還必

邦境內的聯邦行政機關，跟瑞士表一樣，不停地運轉。」沒有人

須要有勁，必須值得你征服。

能否認普京對於現今俄羅斯的影響，甚至連他習慣用右手佩戴腕 錶，都成為了俄羅斯上流社會所追捧的時尚潮流。 曾有學生問他：「什麼是總統想做，但卻不能做的事情？」

有高度，自然選擇「高度」，茅台酒從來就受到各國領導人的 讚譽，這位硬漢總統對中國「國酒」自然也是情有獨鍾。 因為他知道，懂品味，才有品位。 MOUTAI Magazine

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ETIQUETTE уд«

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天外天與茅台 TEXT / 文：Ivan Wong PHOTOGRAPHY / 攝：Kaleidoscope TRANSLATION / 譯 : Natalie Wong SPECIAL THANKS / 特別鳴謝 : Hotel Icon 唯港薈

It was probably inspired by its view that the restaurant Above & Beyond was named. Overseeing the Victoria Harbour and gazing at the Victoria Peak in the haze, the Michelin - starred restaurant hints at heavens beyond the skies. But it may well be an overtone of the expertise involved undeniably, the dream dyad, Executive Chef Joseph Tse and Director of Wine Nigel Chan, has made great achievements for the restaurant in fusion Chinese food and in wines. One of their mottos is to opt for adventures. So naturally, when asked if they could prepare for us a tailor-made fusion banquet using the Chinese liquor Moutai, the dyad gave a positive answer. 這家米之蓮食肆取名天外天（Above & Beyond），大概是 其臨海維多利亞海港景觀配合對岸太平山之若隱若現，有 若天外之天之意；然而，他們亦可能想以其弦外之音提示 我們，那裡有人外之人的高人助陣——無可否認，總廚謝 錦松師傅與葡萄酒總監陳振寧（Nigel Chan）這對夢幻組 合，確讓天外天在新派中菜與葡萄酒方面取得相當的成 就。勇於嘗試是他們格言之一，問他們能否為我們度身訂 造一席新派酒菜盛宴，而當中要有國酒茅台的份兒，答案 當然是肯定的。

ETIQUETTE 禮

s the Chinese verse goes, "However high Mount Tai is, there are skies above it; however deep the oceans are, there is land below them. Beyond men are men; above skies are skies." It means: however strong you are, there is always someone stronger; so never rest on one’s laurels.

With more than thirty years’ experience, Chef Tse of Above & Beyond still finds fault in himself every day and is never self-content. For Tse, there will never be a dish of perfection, but of ultimate devotion. Applying the most traditional Cantonese cookery, he blends that with the Western logic of menu design, giving modernity to the cuisine. By manipulating the original essence belonging to various ingredients, he delivers complex taste and texture in every dish handled.

Though the dinner was tailor-made for us, it is in fact part of the job routine for the dyad's team to prepare meals this way. As a responsible chef, Tse said that he should know the taste of each customer, so that they will never forget the taste of any dish, at the same time recognizing the uniqueness of the taste. A customer will only come back if the taste is undiscoverable elsewhere. "It’s extremely difficult. As you said, it’s a bit like being a tailor… Every day, I approach customers to learn and communicate face to face." A chef who stays in the kitchen every day, he said, will easily be stuck in his old ways. Tse keeps broadening his horizons by doing research at leisure, often followed by brainstorming and experimenting with new

recipes: "Find out the factors behind successful chefs in other countries, and try fusing foreign ingredients into Chinese cuisine." It would be too late, he said, if new dishes are experimented when customers are here; his confident preparedness is a result from regular training.

Nigel, Director of Wine at Above & Beyond, who often shoulders the responsibility of wine and food matching, emphasizes an open attitude for viewing the world and a gut for adventures: "We do use typical pairings, but only under a premise of creativity. We shall not be stuck in our old ways but to be liberal and willing to try out different things, as exquisite pairings are all results of experimentation. "At the same time, we shan’t be conservative. From the perspective of Western pairing, Moutai, as well as Cognac, may perfectly conclude a banquet, but it may well go with cold dishes as appetite-sharpeners; and nonetheless with the main course, bringing out the aroma or taste complexity of the food." For Nigel, it is highly advantageous to employ Chinese spirits in the Western concept of food and wine matching, while the malleability of Moutai favours matching with lots of dishes, especially when ordering by glass is available: "For me, it’s unnecessary to drink Moutai in a traditional spirit glass. I’d try using a wine glass. Given the ABV, richness and aroma of Moutai, there is enormous space and possibilities for matching." So now we’ll lay back and enjoy the demonstration by the dream dyad, Chef Tse and Nigel, and look how they’ll present the virtues of Moutai in the banquet.

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總廚謝錦松師傅（左）與葡萄酒總監陳振寧 （Executive Chef - Joseph Tse（left）and Director of Wine - Nigel Chan）

不知泰山高矣，泰山之上還有天；滄海深矣，滄海之

「多看外國著名廚師們成功的因素，多點嘗試用外國食材融入中

下還有地。人外有人，天外有天。」就是說強中自有強

餐元素中。」他說，若客人來到光顧時才去試新菜式的話，已經

中手，自滿自大實在自招損。

太遲了，為何他常常顯得成竹在胸，都只是平日訓練出來的。

天外天總廚謝錦松師傅雖入廚三十多年，但每天都發覺自

平日常擔起以酒配菜任務的天外天葡萄酒總監 Nigel，亦強

己不足之處，字典中從來沒自滿這兩個字，他認為從來都沒有最

調抱持開放態度放眼世界，勇於嘗試的重要性：「我們會運用典

美味的菜式，只有最用心的佳肴。謝師傅慣以最傳統粵菜烹調技

型的組合，但要在具創意的大前提進行，不能故步自封，要抱持

術，融會西方菜式思維，讓每道菜式別具時代感，同時，他亦很

開放的態度，多加嘗試，所有絕佳的味道組合都是試出來的。我

懂得掌握各種食材原味中的清鮮之處，一道菜式在他手底下能組

們亦不能太保守，如在西方配菜角度，茅台可以像干邑般，為一

合出多層次的味道與口感。

頓盛宴作出最完美的總結，但也可以作為開胃酒配冷盤，同時，

這次刻意找他們說是度身訂造，其實度身訂造已是他們日常

也可以把主菜的濃香及多層次味道帶出來。」他認為中國白酒放在

工作的一部份，他說作為一個負責任的廚師，應了解每一位客人

西式配菜概念中，實也無往而不利。而且，茅台可塑性很高，如

的口味，讓他們離開後還會牢記那吃過每道菜式的味道，而且還

果酒牌上可有逐杯點的選擇時，那便具彈性，更能配合多道不同

要是只此一家的味道，不能從別處吃得到的，那才能讓客人再次

的菜式了：「對我個人而言，也不一定要用傳統的小杯去喝茅台，

光顧。 「其實難度極高，你說度身訂造也對，那真的有點像當裁

我會試用白酒杯。茅台擁有這樣的酒精度、這樣的濃郁度、這樣

縫……我每天都會從廚房走到客人前，直接了解和溝通。」謝師

的香醇，配菜其實有很大的空間，很多可能性。」就讓謝師傅與

傅說，做廚師若每天呆在廚房裡，很容易故步自封。他亦會放眼

Nigel 這對夢幻組合在這裡小試牛刀，看看在這席盛宴中他們如

世界，一有空閒時間便作資料搜集，然後便構思及嘗試新菜式：

何把茅台的優點呈現出來。

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ETIQUETTE 禮

"We shall be liberal and willing to try out different things, as exquisite pairings are all results of experimentation." 「 要抱持開放的態度，多加嘗試， 所有絕佳的味道組合都是 試出來的。」

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Wok-fried Spotted Garoupa Fillet with Mince Ham and Spring Onion with Kweichow Moutai

腿茸薑蔥爆東星斑球 配 貴州茅台

While Moutai and seafood has always been great partners, said Nigel, it’s good to have some robustness with suitable seasoning and texture to balance with Moutai’s dryness and high ABV. From the mince ham to the spring onions to the umami of the garoupa, there is a spectrum of taste, aroma and texture which is comparable to that of Moutai, bringing about a splendid match.

調味及口感，以更濃的味道來與茅台的濃香作平衡。這道菜由腿

MOUTAI Magazine

Nigel 說，本來茅台配海鮮已是個很好的組合，但最好能有適當的 茸到薑蔥到東星斑本身的魚香味，有不同的層次感，而茅台無論 酒香與酒質都同樣地有很強烈的層次感，這酒與這菜，真像二合 為一。

Suckling Pig Trotters in Abalone Sauce with Kweichow Moutai Our Moutai returns. After its matching with the Spotted Garoupa Fillet which is more to the robust side, we have it here with a Suckling Pig Trotters dish. Due to its rich collagen content, suckling pig trotters are lush and crispy, best eaten semi-soft. Moutai could reduce the greasiness resulted. Because of the vigorous taste of the alcohol, Nigel suggests avoiding hot and spicy food to prevent piling up spiciness, unless that this is deliberate. So fat and grease is a good match for Moutai, while the umami in the abalone sauce enhances the taste of Moutai, bringing aroma from the nostrils back to the tip of the tongue.

鮑汁豬仔腳 配 貴州茅台

Steamed Lobster with Egg White and Black Truffles with Claude Cazals Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru N.V. The tenderness of egg white and the luxuriant crunch of the lobster, alongside the nuance of truffles, combine to create the weight of the dish. Champagne, truffles and lobster are a classic match.

Blanc de Blancs, which has a toast and honey overtone, goes well with the robust odour of truffles. It’s always difficult to find a wine compatible with egg white, and serving it with ordinary liquor would be weird.

茅台又再出場。先前茅台配過腿茸薑蔥星斑球較重味的味道後，

黑松露蛋白蒸龍蝦球 配 Claude Cazals Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru N.V.

這回配的是味道細緻的鮑汁豬仔腳。豬仔腳有豐富骨膠原，比較

這道蛋白龍蝦球，擁有蛋白的清香嫩滑的同時，又有龍蝦球的香

肥美而爽口，處於半軟狀態吃最為美味，而茅台正好減低這肥膩

濃爽脆，松露在若隱若現之中加強了整道菜的重量感。而香檳配

感。Nigel 認為茅台本身味道濃烈，應盡量避開辣的東西，重酒

松露和龍蝦，這個是典型的配合，此 Blanc de Blancs 有種像烤

精遇上辣味，會辣上加辣，除非想刻意呈現這效果，所以脂肪油

麵包及蜜糖香味，這些味道正好配合黑松露那較強的香氣，蛋白

份來配茅台會較合適，鮑汁亦有種魚鮮味，可為茅台作提味，亦

配酒其實亦不容易，以一般白酒配之會怪怪的。

可讓茅台的酒香從鼻處走回舌尖。

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ETIQUETTE 禮

Crispy-fried Sweet & Sour Iberian Pork with Red Wine Vinegar with Louis Guntrum ​Oppenheimer Sacktracer Riesling Spätlese Trocken 2012 Nigel’s idea was to not pair the dish with red wine, as the red wine vinegar already present in the dish would eliminate the tannins in red wine. So he picked a relatively acidic Riesling. Though austere in nature, this wine generates a slight sweetness on the first sip, followed by the citric austerity typical of German Riesling, blending well with the red wine vinegar in the pork. Besides, the weighty texture of Riesling may bring out the savour and texture of the pork, achieving mutual enhancement.

紅酒醋西班牙黑毛豬咕嚕肉 ​​ Sacktracer 配 Louis Guntrum Oppenheimer Riesling Spätlese Trocken 2012 Nigel 並不主張以此菜配紅酒，因菜式本身已有紅酒醋在內，很 容易讓紅酒喝下去沒有了酸味，所以選擇了這瓶酸度較高的 Riesling。此酒雖屬乾性，但第一口喝下去時，會有少許甜味， 然後才出現是典型乾身德國 Riesling 的果酸特性，可以融和咕嚕 肉中的紅酒醋，而酒身亦有足夠的份量去襯托黑毛豬的肉香及口 感，達至相互提升的效果。

Smoked Pigeon with Oolong Tea Leaves with Astrolabe Pinot Noir 2012 The pigeon has been marinated in aged brine for 15 minutes till it is 80% cooked, since its breast will become earthy if overcooked. Then, it’s been smoked in tea leaves for 30 seconds before the poultry would get bitter.

Regarding the smoking process, a strict balance is maintained between tea leaves and herbs, allowing traces of wood fragrance. The wine, with aromas from herbs, mint and leather on top of the fruitiness found in traditional New Zealand Pinot Noir, is quite a good company to the smoked cooking and the tea leaves. If a fruity red wine had been picked instead, it would have been inapt.

凍頂烏龍茶燻鴿 配 Astrolabe Pinot Noir 2012 以陳年鹵水浸煮十五分鐘，讓鴿在八成熟狀態，鴿胸過熟便不夠 嫩滑，用茶燻三十秒便足夠，否則肉身便會帶苦。煙燻味要拿捏 得準繩，要有茶香味同時有香料味，各方面的味道平衡，還要有 種獨特的木味餘香。而此酒除擁有傳統新西蘭 Pinot Noir 的果香 外，還有香料、薄荷及皮革的香味，甚適合配茶燻鴿的煙燻及茶 香，若光以果香型的紅酒去配此菜式，便不太合適了。

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Pan-fried Minced Shrimp Pattles with Basil with Domaine d'Elise Petit Chablis 2012 This is an interesting pair. Nigel had surprisingly found the quality of the wine even better than it was classed and labelled. On further research, he discovered that the grapes were grown on a newly exploited vineyard which was next to a top-class counterpart. Unable to be legally defined as belonging to Chablis, the new vineyard could only belong to Petit Chablis, while having de facto qualities of a top-class Chablis vineyard. In line with a traditional Chablis, this wine is high in acidity, strong in fruitiness and contains mineral aroma. It accompanies the vividness of basil while its high acidity would moderate the greasiness of the shrimp patties.

九層塔煎鮮蝦餅 配 Domaine d’Elise Petit Chablis 2012 這是個很有趣的組合，Nigel 認為此酒的酒質比其列在酒招上的 級別更高，有令人意想不到的驚喜，探究之下，他發現原來葡萄 來自一塊新開發的葡萄田，而那塊田正好在某一級莊旁邊，但法 例上不能稱為 Chablis 只能叫 Petit Chablis，但其實它擁有甚至是 Chablis 一級酒莊的級數。此酒有傳統 Chablis 的高酸度，礦物性 的香氣，亦有很重的果香，可以配襯像九層塔那較為濃烈的香草 味，其高酸度亦可令煎蝦餅肉質更為清爽，不會太油膩。

Braised Tientsin Cabbage with Parma Ham in Chicken Broth with Hetszolo Tokaj Aszu 3 Puttonyos 2004 Flaked with Parma ham, there is abundant flavour of chicken broth in the dish, resulting in a zesty tanginess. Red wine is not recommendable as it would inaptly boost the grassy taste of the Tientsin cabbage. So Nigel picked this liqueur from Tokaj. Though "liqueur" in nature, this Hungarian spirit is not too sweet. The saltiness of the dish makes it a great partner with the Botrytis liqueur, containing a honeyed finish exclusive to its kind.

As the dish and the spirit are both weighty in texture, a velvety richness arises from the match.

川府巴馬腿浸天津白菜 配 Hetszolo Tokaj Aszu 3 Puttonyos 2004 此菜式雞湯味濃郁，再加上巴馬腿，令口味加添鹹香、惹味，但 亦不是太適合配紅酒，因紅酒會不適當地加強天津白菜的菜青 味，所以 Nigel 選了這瓶匈牙利 Tokaj 甜酒。雖說是甜酒，但它亦 不算太甜，用此酒配這個菜式效果出奇地好，其鹹香與這類貴腐 型（Botrytis）葡萄甜酒獨有的蜜餞香味，同時，兩者的口感都帶 少許重量，結合後便有種濃郁而柔滑的特質。

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ETIQUETTE 禮

A

Story about Bespoke

Tailoring

一個定製的故事 TEXT/ 文 : Konzen Hou 侯康升 TRANSLATION/ 譯 : Cathy Lin SPECIAL THANKS/ 特別鳴謝 : Ascot Chang 詩閣

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Tony Chang showed us the picture taken with Bush the elder, and told the story about tailor-made bespeaking shirts for him for several times. We were started to in touch with the tip of the iceberg of a legendary story as this former president of US is a returning customer of Ascot Chang.

No matter which Ascot Chang store in the world you bespeak shirts, the related information would be sent back to Hong Kong. As Ascot Chang has only one producing place, they gathered the most experienced tailor masters here, these Chinese faces inherited the great tradition and high quality from Shanghai bespoke tailoring. It is interesting to find the features astonishingly similar with another Chinese brand, Moutai.

They both insist to maintain good quality and not agreed with producing in foreign place.

Mr. Tony Chang, the person in charge of Ascot Chang, son of the founder admitted, "Though we are two different brands, we have same insistence on quality." Perhaps it is just the main key leading a brand to be extraordinary.

Tony Chang 拿出與老布殊的合照，並說起記憶中數次為老布殊量身定製的故事時， 我們漸漸觸摸到一個傳奇的冰山一角；要知道，這位前美國總統可是詩閣定製的回 頭客。 無論你是在全球哪一家詩閣店定製襯衫，相關的資料都會傳回香港。因為詩閣在全 世界只有這一個生產地，這裡彙集了詩閣最資深的裁縫師傅，清一色的東方面孔秉 承了上海定製服裝的優良傳統及最高水準。有趣的是，這些特質都與另一個享譽國 際的中國品牌——茅台，顯現出驚人的相似性：堅持品質，不能異地生產。詩閣現 在的負責人、創始人張子斌先生之子 Tony Chang 直言：「品牌不一樣，但對品質的 堅持是一樣的。」或許，這正是一個品牌走向超凡卓越不可或缺的基因。

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ETIQUETTE 猎

t the time we arrived Ascot Chang the store located in Price Building, Hong Kong for an interview, there were several customers came for tailor-made bespeaking; during the process, some other customers had came in to chat and get the finished clothes, all seems easy and disciplined, wondered the practice must have doing for more than half a century, probably they are all regular customers and familiar with each others.

Since the talk with Mr Tony started, we entered to a story of bespoke tailoring.

In 1937, Ascot Chang went to Shanghai from Ningbo to learn the technique from an old tailor in his 14-year-old age; the customers of his master were all from the upper class society. Â Being an apprentice for more than 10 years, Chang gained a great technique and a batch of noble customers.

Chang came to Hong Kong in 1949, together with all his fortune US10 and one dream. In the beginning, he was staying in homes of his relatives and friends, bespoke clothing for the immigrants were also from shanghai by promoting door-to-door. He was not the only shanghai tailor at that time, but luckily an outstanding skill could get good word-of-mouth, Chang had more and more customers.

"The first store of Ascot Chang opened in Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui in 1955, and there was actually a tailor street. If you could find an old picture, you could see at least more than 10 tailor stores there." Tony recalled memories of the bustle in the past, and his utterances showed his nostalgia.

In 1963, Chang got invitation to set up his second store in Peninsula Hotel, a legendary location. Regarding the guests of Peninsula Hotel

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"Bespeaking at Ascot Chang, tailor master would measure your figure carefully, and you may find one of your arms is longer than the other one for a quarter of inch. There are more than thousands of fabrics in store for you to choose, wear the best cotton feels just like silk, you better believe it. Despite what colour, there must be one fits you; if not, they would be happy to search for you. They have many different styles and samples are well prepared for you to pick, or you may ask them to duplicate the one you like. Shirt with pocket or not or simply let them design for you, like maybe sew one on your left chest for mobile phone, that’s the design I am using as well, convenient and look smart to receive appreciation by everyone."

「在 ASCOT CHANG 定制， 師傅會依照你的身材精心量度， 這時你可能會發現一隻手比另一隻手長出四分之一吋來。 店裏有數千上萬的布料給你選擇，最好的棉質， 穿起來像絲，不到你不信。 任何顏色，都有一款適合你，再找不到， 店裏也願意為你的選擇去搜索。 應有盡有款式，有樣板給你去挑， 再不然，你可以拿一件你喜歡的去照做。 有口袋，無口袋，或者，店裏會幫助你設計， 在左肋處縫一個，讓你裝進手機， 我自己就用這一設計，方便又美觀，看到的人無一不稱讚。」 ——香港作家蔡瀾

── Hong Kong writer Chua Lam

were all came from upper class, Ascot Chang built up its reputation and business. Time passed, Ascot Chang from someone’s name to a famous high end bespoke tailoring brand, and eventually turned to a pronoun of the industry. As a witness of history and a legend, Ascot Chang is still continuing its story in Peninsula Hotel until now.

Regarding Tony’s memories about the Hong Kong in the late 60s, the political environment was not stable; you would not dare to kick even a plastic bag on the street as it might be actually a bomb. The instability was definitely a crash to Hong Kong, following riots was a huge decrease in the number of visitors, which doubtlessly affects Ascot Chang. But as a Chinese idiom says: Nothing so bad but might be a blessing. Who knows that crisis happened would bring Ascot Chang an opportunity to be worldwide?

At that tough time, Ascot Chang and his brother Johnny Chang left Hong Kong to United States and Europe to do door-to-door bespeak tailoring for old customers. As the touring bespoke service is what the brands from England and Italy must have, Ascot Chang not only gained more highquality customers by going out and solved his difficulties, but also got himself to the same starting point as the brands from England and Italy.

Regarding his attitude fully devoted to fine production, spread the sewing techniques from Shanghai to worldwide, his brand’s value was being established rapidly and recognized internationally.

"Actually there were many tailor stores quite successful as well, but some of them just lack of heir, my father were friends with several of them, their next generations normally became PhDs or doctors."

Tony said, he didn't mean to enter the industry, and so he was majoring

in Mathematics and Computing. "Development in Hong Kong is too fast, lands are not enough for that many people and so government cooperate with property developers, to reconstruct to hotels. If the government could have a mind in keeping Hong Kong’s cultures in different eras, the tailor stores could stay and it would become a street with characters." Well, glad that Ascot Chang is still here.

An Outstanding Oriental Brand In the bespoke tailoring concept of Ascot Chang, philosophy in bespoke tailoring of the founder Mr Ascot Chang has always being followed.

"Every customer has his own type and special request. As we are professional doing tailor-making, details of different customers are a must for us to understand." Though diversity in Chinese and Western cultures leads to obvious differences in understanding outfits, but that seems not a problem to Ascot Chang, as they are always dealing with individuals. "The body shape, personality and sense of style of customers are keys for me to design shirt the best." That is how Ascot Chang concludes this technique which he pursued in his entire life. And that is also the soul of bespoke tailoring in a high level: create uniqueness.

There are more than 6,000 types of fabric you can choose in Ascot Chang, such as Alumi from Swiss, Testa and Thomas Mason from Italy, etc., those are all made by the fabric factories requiring the best quality.

Tony asked his assistant to get us a few finished shirts, proudly showed us the distinct quality and excellent accomplishment. If you notice the details, you would find it is rare to see that fine sewing on shirts, the single line stitching method with 22 stitches per inch is particularly used by Ascot

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ETIQUETTE 禮

Tony Chang, 詩閣創始人張子斌先生之子（Tony Chang, son of the founder Mr. Ascot Chang.）

"If you meet a man that wears an Ascot Chang shirt,marry him!"

「 看見穿詩閣襯衫的男士就嫁給他吧！」

Take Care of the Pickiest Customer Chang, which is the reason to make sure shirts are fine like brand new no matter how many times being washed. "See, our buttons are made by seashells in solid colour all being picked, even the stitches are a double than normal. Stripes on shoulder have to be in accordance with those on sleeve for our shirts, appear just like the same fabric." The extremely fine quality in the details is so perfect to not allowed me for any possible blemish even I was being picky. Just like what Tony said, something could have changes, but not for these details, you may have innovation in your clothing like adding a pocket on your left chest; but the core is unshakable.

Ascot Chang’s business has expanded globally to no matter which store you bespeak shirts, the related information would be sent back to Hong Kong.

As Ascot Chang has only one producing place in the world, they gathered the most experienced tailor masters here, these Chinese faces inherited great tradition and high quality from Shanghai bespoke tailoring.

It is interesting to find the features astonishingly similar with another Chinese brand, Moutai. They both insist to maintain good quality and not agreed with producing in foreign place. Mr Tony Chang, the person in charge of Ascot Chang and also son of the founder admitted, "Though we are two different brands, we have same insistence on quality." Perhaps it is just the main key leading a brand to be extraordinary.

About the future plan for Ascot, they seem not likely to have expansion.

"We are following our own track in the recent years, slowly but keep on going; if you ask for 10 more stores then we have to first make sure we can produce that many clothes." Tony kept emphasizing, "Our producing process could not produce a hundred more clothes right next month." This is the insistence of Ascot Chang, and the quality of Ascot Chang.

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In the storage of Ascot Chang which located in Hunghom, Hong Kong, there are 70,000 to 80,000 paper patterns of customers being placed on rows of shelves; only for whom passed away or did not return for bespoke tailoring within 10 years would be destroyed. When returning customers come to Ascot Chang, if they did not changed much, they could skip the step of measuring size and just pick the fabric. As the data of each customer is stored well by Ascot Chang, detailed to what special pockets you have bespoke.

Former U.S Presidents Nixon and Bush the elder, Construction Master Leoh Ming Pei, Hong Kong entertainment mogul Sir Run Run Shaw, Chairman of CITIC Pacific Ltd. Larry Yung, Former Chief Secretary for Administration Henry Tang and Owner of the Sands Macao Sheldon Adelson and Hollywood director John Woo these dazzling names are all hidden in the customer directories of Ascot Chang. Writer Zagat from New York even wrote on his book: "If you meet a man that wears an Ascot Chang shirt, marry him!" Regarding its faith and pursuance for bespoken tailoring, Ascot Chang attracts leaders in business, politicians and fashion icons; at the same time these top people of the era are also using Ascot Chang to show their charm and sense of style.

By today, this family business expanded its scale to 14 stores around the world located in Hong Kong, New York, Los Angeles, Manila and Shanghai etc.

Following the brand’s promotion plan, its sales network even included cities like Tokyo, Paris and London etc. We could foresee more names are going to be listed as their customers; and this Chinese brand will continue to enrich its own legendary story.

詩閣位於香港紅磡工廠的客人資料庫（Customers database of Ascot Chang stored in the factory located in Hung Hom, Hong Kong.）

1961 年的詩閣 (Ascot Chang in 1961)

寇克．道格拉斯與張子斌先生 (Kirk Douglas & Ascot Chang)

里安納度．迪卡比奧與張宗琪先生 (Leonardo DiCaprio & Tony Chang)

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MUSE 樂

朱德群 1993 年《躍升的音符》 （Chu Tehc​hun "Jumping Musical Notes" 1993.）

藝蘊百年

夢迴巴黎

TEXT/ 文 : 冬子 TRANSLATION/ 譯 : Benedict Tsang SPECIAL THANKS/ 特別鳴謝 : Poly Auction (Hong Kong) 保利香港拍賣

In the 20th century, Paris indisputably served a pivotal role in the realm of fine art, fountaining inexhaustible aesthetic splendour in the time of peace or tumultuousness.

Attracting myriads of oriental faces at the beginning of the century, this frontier found itself at a historical junction where passion and east intertwined with creativity and west, harbouring endless artistic possibilities and masterpieces, the lumière éternelle of which continues to be treasured in museums after over a hundred years. 在 20 世紀近百年的靈感湧動中，法國巴黎作為無可爭議的藝術中心，在動盪間 潮起潮落，精彩紛呈。世紀開端，大批的東方面孔漂洋過海，也湧入到時代的 浪潮。在那樣一個充滿激情與創造力的歷史節點，東西方文化的碰撞與交融， 不斷孕育出新的藝術可能。幸而，百年後的今天，我們依然能通過美術館裡的 時代所遺留下來的傑作，去探尋那靈思閃現的瞬間與藝術永恆的光輝。

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蒙梭公園（Parc Monceau）

Hemingway once famously put, "If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast."

海明威曾說過： 「假如你有幸在年輕時在巴黎生活過，不論去到哪裡，她都與你同在，因為巴黎是一席流動的盛宴。」

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藝術家在巴黎的工作室一角（An artist was in a corner of the studio in Paris.）

ndeed, in such a lavish feast described by Hemingway, you would find cultural pantheons such as Fitzgerald, Picasso, Dali, Gertrude Stein, Matisse, Braque and Hemingway himself, toasting; but meanwhile, a school of literati hailing from the east were also joining in the resplendence for the first time in history, bringing in their unique, unprecedented brilliance. These Chinese artists, namely Lin Fengmian, Xu Beihong, Liu Haisu, Pan Yuliang, Sanyu, Pang Xunqin, Zao Wou-ki and Chu Teh-chun, arrived opportunely for an extravagant mingling and exchange with the western world.

Paris emerged like the centre of a western cultural storm that took the world, accommodating and delivering artistic elements from both east and west. From the other hemisphere, Shanghai also proved itself a city akin to Paris, radiating magnetic eastern charisma that allured artists nearby and afar. This likeness of the two cities brought them together like an invisible bridge, a bridge housing a profusion of spectacular artists and their arresting pieces.

Since 1919, thousands of Chinese pupils were carried from Shanghai to Marseil by one postal cargo after another. Amongst them were promising names that would later on rise to the hall of fame in Chinese art history Lin Fengmian, Xu Beihong, Pan Yuliang, etc.

In 1921, Mr. Lin Fengmian matriculated as a western painting student at École Nationale des Beaux-Arts de Dijon, and was subsequently accepted by École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts in Paris, where he was under the tutelage of Fernand Cormon, benefiting from a vast array of artistic inspirations and nutrients.

Such experience was not unique to Lin, nonetheless, but in fact to many a first-wave Chinese artists in France. Substantially influenced by French academic style, they revered natural realism from the 19th century as supreme artistry upon their return to Shanghai, where these masters put their consummate techniques and theories into practice to promote western painting art through education and exhibitions, collaboratively constituting the early form of Chinese modern art.

After 1945, these achievements were continued by Wu Guanzhong, Zao Wou-ki and Chu Teh-chun, who in turn co-created an unprecedented cultural vigour with an artistic mode richly invested with Chinese-ness.

The trio explored the possibilities of east-west artistic dialogues, combining the spirit of Chinese traditional folk art with French academic style and the prevalent artistic movement back then. The outcome was highly successful, earning recognition and plaudits from the world. Although each painter had his unmistakable artistic individuality, they all displayed homage to Taoism’s emphasis on life and spirit, as well as the Buddhist notion of zen. These erudite painting veterans adapted the imaginative approach of Chinese paintings onto western media, creating a brand new school of ‘eastern oil paintings’ that remained culturally specific to them.

Exhibitions revolving around this timeline witness such an exchange and amalgamation of modern arts between China and France, and between east and west.

In Paris 1933, Xu Beihong organised an exhibition of paintings by contemporary Chinese artists, which was later on restaged in Musee Cernuschi in 1946. After over 60 years in September 2011, again, Musee Cernuschi staged the show entitled ‘Artistes Chinois Paris’ (‘Chinese Artists and Paris’) in the museum and in Parc Monceau.

Running from 13 December 2013 to 16 March 2014 at Hall 11, 11-1, 12 and 13, the show entitled ‘Turning Point – French art of the 1930s – Masterpieces from Musée des Années Trente de Boulogne-Billancourt’ is a collaborative effort by China Art Museum and the French museum.

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Presented in four sections to recount the Sino-French exchange, the exhibition parades 103 pieces of leading French modern art masterpieces from Musée des Années of Boulogne-Billancourt in 1930s. Amongst them are works by Henri Bouchard, Hua Tianyou’s tutor, as well as Wu Guanzhong’s tutors Jean Souverbie and Jean Dupas. The exhibition furthers the footpath paved by its predecessors, highlighting the diversity of French art in 1930s. It captures the artistic situation of France as the world’s hub of fine art, and traces the development and change of modern art in a particular historical, societal and economic context.

The other exhibition, entitled ‘Shanghai/ Paris: Modern Art of China,’ sets against the historical backdrop of east-west exchange that began since the 20th century, manifesting the essence of Shanghainese art that developed little by little throughout the years. Taking formalistic and expressionist methodology favoured by Lin Fengmian as a starting point, the show delineates the development and ups and downs of modern and contemporary Chinese art, as well as the new artistic energy formed under globalisation. The exhibition, which runs from 1 October 2013 to 30 May

2014 at Hall 7, 8, 9 and 10, is divided into three sections: ‘Master and Friends’, ‘Setting Sailing’, and ‘Power of Globalisation’, presenting a spread of approximately 250 exquisite works by renowned artists who were active in Shanghai or Paris since the 20th century, including Chinese paintings, oil paintings, lithographs, sculptures, watercolour paintings, drawings and many more, as well as literatures and essays amounting over ten thousand words. For the very first time, the artistic connection between Shanghai and Paris was depicted under the research approach of east-west comparative studies, establishing a necessary foundation for a meaningful future for the cross-cultural artistic tie.

Upon the semicentennial anniversary of Sino-French diplomacy, we are invited to revisit this artistic promenade of cultural fusion, whilst crossing time and space to reminisce the splendiferous Paris in its golden times where cultures and artistic inspirations were put in glamorous contact and fusion. Such Parisian reminiscence envisages an era ahead of us, dreamily but tellingly.

徐悲鴻（Xu Beihong）

林風眠（Lin Fengmian）

莫迪格利亞尼、畢卡索及薩爾蒙（Modigliani, Picasso and André Salmon）

柯爾蒙工作室（Fernand Cormon）

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潘玉良（Pan Yuliang）

果在這一席流動的盛宴裡，可以看見高舉酒杯的海明

中華藝術宮再度與法國美術館攜手合作，推出「轉折——20

威、菲茨傑拉德、畢卡索、達利、斯泰因夫人、馬蒂斯

世紀三十年代的法國美術布洛涅 ﹣比揚古三十年代美術館珍藏」

和布拉克等西方名流，那麼正載郵輪上岸的東方雅士，

展，於 2013 年 12 月 13 日至 2014 年 3 月 16 日在 33 米樓層的 11、

也是盛宴上緩緩入場的獨特風景。林風眠、徐悲鴻、劉海粟、潘

11-1、12、13 展廳展出。主要展品為 103 件布洛涅 ﹣比揚古市

玉良、常玉、龐薰琴、趙無極和朱德群等，都是這樣與世界觥籌

三十年代美術館極具代表性的法國現代藝術作品，構成四個章節

交錯，交流往返。

的展覽呈現。而展覽將以獨特的方式再現這段中法藝術交流的緣

巴黎，儼然是西方擴散往四面八方的風暴中心，傳遞又收容

分，展出滑田友的老師亨利 ．布夏和吳冠中的老師讓 ．蘇弗爾皮

來自兩端的藝術微粒。而上海與巴黎頗為相似的都是那被東方藝

和讓 ．杜巴斯的作品。這將進一步延續上述系列法國展覽所鋪陳

術環繞左右，也具有強烈磁場，吸引着遠近不一的各地藝術家。

的藝術脈絡，聚焦在 20 世紀 30 年代法國藝術的多樣風貌。通過

於是，一條來往於上海與巴黎的無形橋樑，擠滿了奪人眼球 的藝術家與藝術品。 1919 年始，一艘艘海運信使郵輪，將數以千計的中國學生， 從上海載至馬賽，其中有林風眠、徐悲鴻和潘玉良等，此後，這 些便是在中國藝術史上響亮的名字。

多角度地展現和梳理當時作為世界藝術中心的法國的藝術狀態， 反映了現代藝術發展在特定的歷史、社會和經濟變革背景下發生 的轉折與變化。 「上海與巴黎之間——中國現當代藝術展」則是立足於 20 世 紀以來東西方文化交流這個大背景，以百年來逐步形成的上海藝

其中，林風眠先生於 1921 年轉入法國國立第戎美術學院學

術內在性精神與氣質為核心，以林風眠先生為首倡導的形式主義

習，9 月又轉入法國國立高等美術學院就讀，並得以進入柯爾蒙

與表現性繪畫為線索，呈現出中國現當代藝術從發生到發展經歷

（Cormon）的工作室學習，廣泛接觸各種藝術形式。

的跌宕起伏的時代演變，以及在全球化文化觀照中生成的全新的

與林風眠先生的經歷相似的不乏其人，許許多多第一代留法

藝術力量。展覽分為「大師與益友」、「從海上出發」和「全球化力

藝術家都被法國學院派藝術深深影響。也正因如此，他們回到上

量」三個篇章，共展出國內外藝術精品近 250 件，有中國畫、油

海後，以十九世紀自然寫實主義為特點的繪畫，才會被一戰後赴

畫、版畫、雕塑、水彩畫、素描等諸門類，並研究文獻和論述

法研修美術的中國畫家列為首推的技術與美學典範。第一代留法

萬餘字，基本涵蓋 20 世紀以來東西方藝術交流的重要成果。於

藝術家用在巴黎學到的技法和理論，以教學、展覽等多種途徑傳

2013 年 10 月 1 日至 2014 年 5 月 30 日在 7、8、9、10 展廳展出，

授西方繪畫藝術，建立起了中國現代藝術的雛形。

呈現了我們耳熟能詳的一批活躍於 20 世紀至今，生活於上海或巴

1945 年後，吳冠中、趙無極和朱德群接過了林風眠等第一

黎的優秀藝術家作品。第一次以東西方文化比較學的研究方式，

代藝術家的接力棒，在國際舞台上開始以一種具有「中國」特徵

來展示上海與巴黎之間的藝術關聯，以及由此激起的漣漪，勾連

的個性方式，創造着讓人驚喜的文化力量。他們在巴黎學院派與

起東西方文明更加深遠的未來。

前衛藝術的影響下，結合中國傳統的民族藝術精神，探尋中西融

在中法建交 50 周年之際，我們不妨循着這條藝術脈絡，跨越

合的出路，最終在現代藝術中，他們具有鮮明民族性的藝術形

時間和空間，夢迴巴黎，追尋東西方文化與藝術靈感碰撞、交融

式，贏得了廣泛聲譽，獲得了世界的認可。縱觀他們三人的畫

的榮華時代，那些遠去的故事，也是對未來的啟示。

作，都有着鮮明的藝術個性。老莊學說中「道」的生命精神和佛 教的「禪學」思想，中國畫的寫意手法再加上他們的博采西學的 現代意識和熟練的西畫載體，創造出了一個屬於漢民族自己的 「東方油畫」。 而順着這些歷史軌跡流落下來的展覽，就是走過這條道路 深深淺淺的腳印，見證這中法兩國、東西方現代藝術的融合和交 彙。 1933 年，徐悲鴻在巴黎羽球美術館策劃主辦「中國當代畫家 聯展」。1946 年，則在賽努奇博物館，由法國人策劃舉辦了「中 國當代繪畫展」。2011 年 9 月由賽努奇博物館主辦的「華人藝術家 與巴黎」在巴黎市賽努奇博物館和蒙梭公園展出。 而來到 2014 年，類似主題的展覽也不會脫鏈，中華藝術宮 正推出有十足魅力的兩組。 常玉《紅梅與白梅》 （Sanyu "Prunus Branches in a Green Landscape"）

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Who says that afternoon is not a good time for wine-tasting? In this leisure cocktail hour, we are honoured to have Yu Yat Yiu, famous music producer and food writer; Pia Ho, radio host, lyricist and columnist; and Simon Staples, Sales Director (Asia) of Berry Bros & Rudd, historic fine wine merchants from UK, to redefine afternoon wine-tasting. Wine tasting sure is a worldwide culture. Yet, the attitudes towards wine tasting from East to West are quite distinctive. Now, let us take a sip of Kweichow Moutai, follow this mellow and aromatic taste and take a deeper look into the culture of wine. 誰說午後不是品酒的最好時光！ 趁春日盎然的一個悠閒下午，請來著名音樂創作人、飲食作家于逸堯，電台節目主持人、 填詞人、專欄作家何秀萍，英國百年老牌皇室御用酒商 Berry Bros & Rudd 亞太區銷售總 監 Simon Staples，一同為午後品酒作重新定義。 品酒本身當然是一種文化，然而，東西方品酒態度有所不同，那麼，就讓我們從呷一口貴 州茅台開始，藉着那五味紛陳的酒香，引領我們走到更深層次的文化話題。

From

Wine Tasting Culture to

從品酒到文化 TEXT/ 文 : Ivan Wong PHOTOGRAPHY/ 攝 : Kaleidoscope, Konzen Hou TRANSLATION/ 譯 : Melody Ma SPECIAL THANKS/ 特別嗚謝 : L’altro

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Moutai for Women 一個女人品茅台 "It has strong aftertaste, with velvety and smooth texture.

It has a long-lasting aftertaste; the flavours and sensations still linger in your mouth.

This lovely flavour reminds me of countless appetizing dishes."

he ways of appreciating wine definitely differ from men of letters to wine connoisseurs. With unlimited ideas and thoughts, littérateurs always have thousands words to describe the taste of a sip of wine. Moutai is not new to Pia, she recalled the last time she tasted Moutai was in a Sichuan gourmet. The rich and strong aftertaste from both Moutai and Sichuan cuisine created a luscious exquisite taste, making it an unforgettable piece of culinary art. However, as to taste Moutai in all conscience, this is Pia's first time. "Moutai is a classy liquor. Still, it is pleasing to see more and more people are trying to enjoy it. After people understand the texture of Moutai, they will then discover new kind of cuisines that suit Moutai. Maybe we'll have Moutai as another choice of dining wine other than red wine afterwards!" Pia added.

Pia lit upon various of different delicacies while tasting this Moutai aged at least 4 years. "You know this is a good wine just by its bouquet. It has strong aftertaste, with velvety and smooth texture. It has a long-lasting aftertaste; the flavours and sensations still linger in your mouth. This lovely flavour reminds me of countless appetizing dishes." Pia stated, "As you wouldn't find any impurities in this wine, you can imagine the excellence skills in this traditional wine-making process. I just love its purity and antiquity. It is absolutely incredible." Pia took a sip of Moutai, as if she was enjoying the picturesque and antique in ancient China. "Moutai really reminds me of Li Bai and other Chinese poets who loved drinking wine.

At that time, they were all drinking liquors like Moutai while they write.

I neither drink nor smoke while I create, at the end I didn't get many achievements; maybe I'll change my ways to write from now on!" 人品酒，當然與專業侍酒師們有着不一樣的取向，在無限 的思想創作空間下，對酒的形容詞又豈會局限於類比式具 象味道。茅台，對何秀萍來說並不陌生，她記得上次喝茅 台配的是四川菜，兩種強烈而濃郁的味道走在一起相互較勁，火花擦 得四起，大家吃得極其過癮，但煞有介事的以品酒的態度去品試，這 還是首次。 「 茅台雖是高檔次酒品，但開始讓多些人去品試始終是好

is a multimedia artist. She is one of the core member of "Zuni Icosahedron", a stage actress, TV host, producer, lyricist and a columnist. Since 1992, she used Ho Lili as a stage name to enter the broadcasting industry and published 2 books of essays《從今以後》 《一個女人》. 何秀萍，以多重身份遊走媒體藝術界，是「進念二十面體」創團 成員、劇場演員、電台節目主持及監製、填詞人、專欄作家， 1992 年以藝名「何利利」晉身廣播行業，著有散文集《從今以 後》 《一個女人》。

事，多些人知道它的味道原來是這樣，原來可以配合很多不同菜式 的，往後，吃飯便不一定帶葡萄酒去了。」

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雖說以認真專注的心情去品試，無奈酒入饑腸，饞嘴的何秀萍

絲毫雜質？休想！「簡直可用技驚四座來形容，要不然，怎可擁有如

喝着這瓶至少陳釀四年的茅台時，仍是忍不住想到種種不同的美食

此崇高的地位。」當代詞人呷着傳統中國白酒，已有點「採菊東籬下，

來。 「 酒香四溢，不用喝也已聞得此酒有多香，入口當然很強很勁，

悠然見南山」的意境，何秀萍不其然把思緒帶到中國文化處於全盛的

但又很醇和很幼滑，酒香留於齒頰中久久不散，很喜歡這不散的味

唐宋時期，「這當然令我聯想到李白和那些酒仙們！那時的騷人墨客

道，讓我想到很多美味的食物來配襯它。」何秀萍說因那種純粹而原

創作時，便是喝着像這樣的酒……而我，從前創作時就是不煙不酒，

始的感覺，可以想像茅台的傳統製酒工藝有多高超，要在酒中找到

結果沒甚成就，或許，往後要改變一下了！哈哈！」

MOUTAI Magazine

Wine & Sound 好酒好聲音 "Moutai is like an extract essence of Chinese traditional technology. Once you get this spirit of Moutai, you don't even have to drink a lot of it to satisfy yourself."

u Yat Yiu, a talented well-known music producer, has a hand in creating the best dining reviews in town. After a sip of Moutai, he then showed us his passion towards gourmet food. "The texture of the wine is absolutely soft.

This particular taste is the fruit of thousands years of China's development.

Compared to other Chinese liquor, this Moutai gives me a more antique delicate feeling, and it is very close to our Chinese tradition culture. You just can't find this earthy taste from other distilling grape wine, such as Cognac." Neutrally, Yu started to think of different combinations between Moutai and food just like Pia did, "This distinctive and strong flavour is especially suitable for dishes with special seasoning. Such as pickles of dishes made with fermented paste or even dried meat."

How are this precious Moutai and music related? "Moutai is like an extract essence of Chinese traditional technology. Once you get this spirit of Moutai, you don't even have to drink a lot of it to satisfy yourself. It is like music pieces by Mozart and Beethoven, those classic master pieces which long withstand the rigors of time." Yu said. Tasting Moutai is as listening to classic music pieces: the more time you spend to enjoy it, the more pleasure you will find. That Moutai has the clearest voice without any impurity.

music creations included pop music, musicals, dance music, movie and TV soundtracks. In 1997, Yu and Anthony Wong with a team of musicians and artists established an independent music production company "People Mountain People Sea". After Yu's first music creation《再見二丁目》, he started to work as a music producer and participated in concerts productions. Yu has also established several books such as《文以載食》 《食以載道》 《食咗當去咗》 《香 港好聲音》. 于逸堯涉足的音樂創作包括主流流行曲、舞台劇音樂、舞蹈音 樂、電影配樂及電視配樂等。1997 年與黃耀明等人合力創辦 獨立音樂廠牌「人山人海」及發表第一首流行曲作品《再見二丁 目》後，開始監製流行曲及大碟，並參與演唱會的策劃製作。 愛飲食亦愛寫作，著有《文以載食》 《食以載道》 《食咗當去咗》 及《香港好聲音》。

華橫溢的于逸堯，是著名音樂創作人之餘，亦寫得一手 常令人垂涎的飲食文章，說他是新一代的食家，這名謙 謙君子總是搖頭說不敢擔當。但一口茅台經他細意品 嚐後，隨即便顯現其食家本色。 「酒質真的如絲！那種獨特的豉味 醬香，正是很中國人的味道，是我們千百年來發展出來的。相對 於我喝過的其他中國白酒，它給我一種比較原始的幼細感覺，很 踏實、很接近我們的傳統……那踏實的味道亦很接近大地，那是 葡萄類蒸餾酒（如干邑）沒有的。」回應何秀萍的饕思饞想，于逸 堯真的像要立時闖進廚房弄兩手似的：「這樣獨特而強烈的酒味， 要配合相對調味的特別菜式，像一些醃漬物、或由經過發酵的醬 料烹調而成的菜式、或是風乾肉等，都很對味。」 回到音樂人身份，這瓶讓他視之為滴滴甘露的茅台，又可會 給于逸堯某些音樂上的聯想？「這像是經過多番去蕪存菁後，才 提煉出的少許精華，只要懂得這股精神力量的話，就是不用喝太 多已能感到滿足……若從音樂方向來形容的話，那應是經過歲月 考驗留下來的東西，所以一定是些很經典的古典音樂，像莫札特 和貝多芬那些，都是最頂尖的。」茅台就如去除多餘雜音後留下來 的最好聲音，品嚐茅台也像聽古典音樂般，要慢慢去用心欣賞， 你給它的時間愈多，便會發掘愈大的趣味。

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A Chinese Culture Representation Itself 它本身已代表中國文化

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"Though the alcohol content is high, it doesn't taste as strong as vodka; you can feel a comfortable warmth rising after having a glass.

This pure wine has a special bitter taste."

s a Royal wine merchant in UK, the Berry Bros. & Rudd has a spirit authority in world's wine industry. The key reason for their success is to discover various of fine wine to customers. It is our pleasure to meet Simon Staples to taste our Kweichow Moutai, which had exhibited in Panama-Pacific International Exposition in 1915. Berry Bros. & Rudd is not just specialized in searching Western red wine and liquor, they are also dedicated to explore for kinds of liquor around the world. Simon is always curious in discovering wines with local characteristics for Berry Bros. & Rudd, "I always drink Japanese sake back in London. However, recently I went to Japan and tried an amazing sake using traditional brewing methods from Sendai. Then I immediately brought it into the wine market in Hong Kong, America and UK." With millions times of wine-tasting, Simon definitely has the professional tongue for it. Though, it is also Simon's first time to taste Moutai as well as Pia. Simon glanced at the small glass of clear Moutai, and sniffed the sweet aroma from the wine; it reminded him of the grappa from Italy.

"Frankly speaking, this Moutai really reminds me of grappa, yet it's so different to grappa – the taste of Moutai is much complicated than grappa.

Though the alcohol content is high, it doesn't taste as strong as vodka; you can feel a comfortable warmth rising after having a glass. This pure wine has a special bitter taste. Surprisingly, the distilling grain wine tastes totally different from Scotch Whisky, which is also a distilling grain wine; instead, it tastes a bit like brandy, a distilling grape wine." It is said that the structure of taste bud between Eastern and Western people varies. After the interview of Simon and Yu on Moutai, we may end that this theory is true.

Simon believes that the wine bottle design of Kweichow Moutai can show how the culture of China exactly is. "Please keep this wonderful design!" he added. erry Bros. & Rudd 貴為英國皇室御用酒商，在世界酒業擁 有崇高地位，他們賴以成功的其中一環，就是為尊貴客人 發掘各式佳釀，這次能邀請 Simon Staples 品試同樣是百年 老牌的貴州茅台，實在意義重大。貴州茅台在世界酒壇也並不陌 生，早在 1915 年巴拿馬萬國博覽會中，已向世人散發中國傳統 的千年酒香。別以為 Berry Bros. & Rudd 只專注於西方葡萄酒和 烈酒，其實他們亦甚為重視世界各地不同的酒品，尤以 Simon 為 甚，以他酷愛探索的性格，不時為 Berry Bros. & Rudd 引進別具 地區特色的酒品：「我在倫敦工作時，雖也常飲用日本清酒，但 早前在日本親身嚐到產自仙台的一種崇尚古法釀造的清酒，一喝 便愛上了，亦把它引進了香港、美國及英國市場。」

Simon 擁有專業的舌尖，可說是試酒無數了，但像這次認真 的去品試茅台，就如何秀萍一樣還是首次。歐洲人試酒總也會從 既定的西方角度出發，Simon 看到那清澈透明的一小杯茅台，嗅 到那從小酒杯中溢出的甘甜酒香，也不其然想到意大利的 grappa 來：「老實說，初入口給我的第一印象確令我想到 grappa，但 其實它又真的和 grappa 很不一樣，比 grappa 更加豐富複雜，酒 精雖強，但又不像伏特加那麼烈，有種暖意一直暖着你的胸口； 酒質非常純淨，而酒中的那種帶少許苦澀的豉味亦很獨特，更意 想不到的是，這種由穀物作原材料製造的蒸餾酒，風味竟然不像 同樣是穀物蒸餾的蘇格蘭威士忌，反而有點像葡萄類蒸餾的白蘭 地。」不少人說東西方人的味蕾構造很不一樣，聽過 Simon 與于逸 堯品試茅台後的不同演繹後，我們可能更相信這個論調了。 最後，跟 Simon 說到中國文化，他認為，貴州茅台這個酒瓶 對外國人而言，已經是傳統中國文化的代表了：「請繼續採用這 個設計，千萬不要改掉啊！」

spent his post-school years hacking through jungles, trekking through deserts and exploring the remotest parts of the world. When the wanderlust was satisfied he returned and took up his next great passion: wine. Since 1996, Simon has worked in Berry Bros. & Rudd, and took up his new role of Sales Director - Asia in December 2012 until today.

Simon Staples 高中時期已很具冒險精神，愛探索的他走 遍各大森林與沙漠以後，最終發現，他的另一至愛原來是 酒——自 1996 年起一直於英國皇室御用酒商 Berry Bros. & Rudd 工作至今，現為亞太區銷售總監。

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Niangx Eb Sangb, the Goddess of Beauty of the Miao 苗族美神：仰歐桑 TEXT / 文 : Chasel Wang

IMAGE / 圖 : Wang Yongzhuo, Imagine China

TRANSLATION / 譯 : Suki Law

Niangx Eb Sangb, a song the world is singing, listening. 仰歐桑，世界在唱，世界在聽。

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iangx Eb Sangb, also known as Niangx Eb Seil, is the Goddess of Beauty of the Miao. Transliterated from the Miao language, these three words actually mean "clear water girls", or in other words, innocent beauties. Glorified as the "Flower of the Miao" and regarded as the symbol of bravery, kindness and beauty, Niangx Eb Sangb has long been a spiritual model for the Miao women.

Her story has been told for over a thousand years in the fields where the Miao resided. Born from a well and nurtured by heaven and earth, the beautiful and kindhearted Niangx Eb Sangb is married to the Sun, who soon leaves her behind and heads to the East Sea for his own interests.

Six years of separation is hard and long enough for her to fall in love with the Moon, who is both honest and hard-working. Together they run off to the edge of the world. The Sun is furious at first but then is able to come to terms with the Moon, who agrees to pay the Sun half of his land, three ships of gold and three ships of silver, in exchange of his lifetime of happiness with Niangx Eb Sangb.

When the Miao praised their Goddess of Beauty, they turned her story into a song; it goes like this: "A thousand roads they walk A thousand songs they sing But we do not walk those roads Nor do we sing those songs We only sing about Niangx Eb Sangb We only look up to Niangx Eb Sangb Whose hair is as smooth as silk With a face you must remember Her eyebrows are like bamboo leaves While her teeth shine like silver Her dress folds exquisitely And it stretches like eaves The belt she wears is like fish scale Oh, what a pretty dress she’s in!

Like a peacock spreading its tail Niangx Eb Sangb, Niangx Eb Sangb……"

How lovely it is.

苗族服飾及銀飾（Silver accessory and Clothing of the Miao）

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Despite the absence of written language, this most beautiful ancient folk song of the Miao was spread far and wide as it was passed down orally from generation to generation in singing. This also contributed to the great amount of versions available, as singers from different periods would incorporate their own interpretations into the song. Even though the general storyline is more or less the same, alternations in the details are inevitable as a result of changing historical backgrounds over time.

Before the Qing Dynasty, Niangx Eb Sangb is said to be seen as a creation myth with a huge emphasis on astronomy, while during the Qing period, the emphasis was shifted to the depiction of love. The Han version Niangx Eb Seil published in the literary magazine called Shan Hua in February 1958 by names like Tang Chunfang and Wu Lue was the representative modern take of this poem/song. Due to the prevailing idea of class struggle that stressed on class positions at that time, the Moon was labelled as the poor and played as a long-term worker for the Sun’s. In 2005, as a fan of its musical elements, Wei Wenyang even made a musical adaptation of the Miao myth. By using Niangx Eb Seil as the title at that time, he had also highlighted the aesthetic and dramatic aspects of the screenplay, in which the Dark Cloud is responsible for the tragic turn of the love story -- Niangx Eb Sangb is turned into sweet dew for she sacrifices herself to save the world.

An Ancient Ethnic Group across Nations The Miao, with a long history that can be traced back to the oracle bone script, is the fifth largest nationality in China and a transnational ethnic group that has spread its presence across the world. The Miao live primarily in southern China, with a high percentage of them inhabited in Qiandongnan, Guizhou, followed by the western part of Hunan, Yunan, the southeastern part of Chongqin and the northern part of Guangzi.

Due to the migrations that had taken place for generations, millions of the Miao is scattered outside China, especially in Southeast Asia.

The Miao in Southeast Asia refer themselves as "Hmongb", while a minority in Vietnam call themselves "Na Maew"; the Miao and the Yao in Laos are usually grouped under as "Lao Sung people" or "Laotians from the mountaintop". In Thailand, the Miao mainly settle in the mountainous regions in the north and its population is only second to the Karen, the largest ethnic group in the country. As for the Miao in Burma, their living environment is similar to their counterparts in other Southeast Asian countries. One interesting fact about them is that they would refer themselves as immigrants from Guizhou.

Apart from China’s neighbouring countries in Southeast Asia, the Miao can also be found in the United States, France and Canada, which took

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"In the winemaking process, water, fire and grain gain their second lives as they are extracted into some purer spirit."

「 為萃取更純真的靈魂，讓水、火、糧食滅度之後而重生， 滴入人心田的中國白酒正是與此相似。」

over a large group of Miao refugees during the Indochina Wars. Starting from 1975, groups and groups of the Miao people had migrated from Laos, Thailand and Vietnam to several Western nations. Up to the present, there are approximately 350,000 Miao immigrants in the United States, most of them from Laos and some from Vietnam and Thailand. Scattered across cities, they were mainly found in the city area of California such as Frenso.

While the United States had become a popular destination for the Miao immigrants, many of them also resettled in countries like France, Canada and Australia. Slowly, the Miao had spread their presence from Asia to the other parts of the world.

Nonetheless, never forgetting their own identity, the Miao who live overseas have been keeping their cultural traditions alive and making great efforts in promoting their nationality to the world. For instance, the majority of the Miao is still communicating in Miao language while their extraordinary Miao embroidery is very much adored by the locals; the vibrant colours of their costumes are irresistibly eye-catching whereas the clanking sound of their silver ornaments are always pleasant to the ear. Like the Miao’s New Year they still celebrate every year, the ancient myth about the Goddess of Beauty lives on in the hearts of the Miao people, and so does their longing towards love. In the Miao’s traditional wedding ceremonies, it is only natural for them to start holding hands and sing and dance in harmony when the time feels right.

Stepping onto the World Stage On 1st August 2013, the musical drama Niangx Eb Sangb began its world premiere as the curtains were slowly drawn in the National Centre for the Performing Arts.

Projected on stage was the stunning scenery of the Miao villages and farmlands. The vivid costumes, the graceful dancing, the touching story… each of the musical elements was beautifully presented in front of the eyes of the audience. Between acts, a Miao singer of old age would emerge from the dim light and sing us ancient ballads acapella in his gifted storytelling voice, while the Miao ladies swiftly went backstage and changed into colourful Miao costumes decorated with silver ornaments; the silver necklaces and bangles on them would still shine in the dark and make such clear clanging sounds. With the perfect combination of music and dance, it was as if the whole Miao village was brought to the theatre.

Despite holding a different name, Niangx Eb Sangb, which had its first performance at the national theatre at Beijing, is still Wei Wenyang’s version. Such flawless performance was in fact backed by an array of renowned musicians in China, with Tang Jianping as the composer, Zhang Jianmin as the chief director and Xu Zhijun as the conductor.

Composed of an overture and six acts, the musical tells the love story of the

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Sun from heaven and Niangx Eb Sangb from earth. The two are married in the dating ground but are soon torn apart, which turns out to be part of the secret plan plotted by the Dark Cloud. When the Sun learns of the truth, he is so furious that he loses his mind; setting himself on fire, he looks for revenge on the Dark Cloud. His rage is transformed into a firestorm, bringing droughts to the world with crops burnt to ashes and wells all dried up. Niangx Eb Sangb daringly throws herself into the Sun and turns herself into rain dew to moisten the earth and bring all living things back to life again…

After its premiere at Beijing, Niangx Eb Sangb was performed at Chinese high schools, an effort that has not only helped promote the Miao culture with "Chinese Dream of the Miao" as their slogan, but also brought great charitable outcomes as it went hand in hand with the public welfare project "National Liquor Moutai . National Pillar—2013 Project Hope Dream Realizing Action" brought by China Kweichow Moutai Distillery (Group) Co., Ltd., the sole sponsor of Niangx Eb Sangb. The musical will then go on a world tour to places like the United States and Europe, and finally settle in Xijiang Miao Village, the largest Miao village in China, where it will plant itself permanently representing the Miao culture in Guizhou.

It goes without saying that Niangx Eb Sangb is in the blood of every Miao, and when the musical was shown before their overseas people, it was as if they had known every dance move so well and every lyric could speak their minds. With the magnificent orchestra in the background, those who followed the footsteps of their parents and stayed overseas felt like they had returned to the Miao village where their ancestors loved to sing and dance.

By acting as a cultural bridge, the musical has successfully impressed the world with the beauty of Niangx Eb Sangb.

Sweet Dew Emerged from Flames In spite of the dramatic ups and downs in her love life, Niangx Eb Sangb shows no signs of fragility; in the face of betrayals and misunderstanding, she is still a heroine at heart. When the Sun madly turns himself into a firestorm, which brings disastrous droughts on earth, Niangx Eb Sangb rises from the river and bravely throws herself into the Sun. By the time the Sun regains his sanity, Niangx Eb Sangb has already vanished into thin air.

The sacrifice she makes is certainly not for nothing. She who embraces truth, virtue and beauty is reborn as rain dew for a greater cause. Gone is her empty shell, but it is her merciful soul that will live on forever.

Perhaps one of the few things that can be compared to such legendary wonder is the delightful Chinese liquor. In the winemaking process, water, fire and grain gain their second lives as they are extracted into some purer spirit; it is among the flames and through the passage of time that the most beautiful sweet dew has silently come into being.

劇照（Stage photo）

HARMONY 和

I Found Myself in China

在中國找回我自己 TEXT/ 文 : Cher Chen 陳小雪 IMAGE/ 圖 : Droa, Imagine China TRANSLATION/ 譯 : Cathy Lin

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The first time when I looked at his photo, his eyes impressed me the most. He has a pair of deep eyes seems allowed him to penetrate into your secret; he observed China this mysterious land in the east by his eyes and wrote the novel Nairobi To Shenzhen. Although the main character named as David, it was almost the story of Mark himself in Shenzhen, China. 初次看到他的照片時，給我留下最深印象的是那雙眼睛。他深邃的眼睛似乎可以洞穿你心底的秘 密，他用這雙眼睛審視着中國這塊神秘的東方土地，並寫下小說《從內羅畢到深圳》。儘管主人翁 的名字叫戴維，其實所要說的，幾乎就是馬克自己在中國深圳的故事。

Mark Obama Ndesandjo,

a man who was born in the Republic of Kenya, educated in the United States and lives in China; younger brother of the U.S President Obama.

馬克·奧巴馬·狄善九——

美國總統奧巴馬的弟弟，一個出生於肯尼亞、求學於美國、生活在中國的男人。

his man who came from the Republic of Kenya is extraordinary intelligent and being fascinated by the Chinese culture.

As a graduate in Engineering from Stanford University the famous college in the U.S., Mark has an amazing talent in Chinese poetry. Poems of Li Shangyin are his favourites, and he is even able to read The Story of the Stone in Chinese, which is a great novel many Chinese should have read but for Mark, he had read it twice.

To most of the foreigners, studying Chinese language is confusing like magic, however, it could not stop you from digging into it. This might be the charm of Chinese language, too magical to attract Mark deeply.

In China, way to say "No" is always difficult for him. You seldom hear people say "I still got something to do, maybe next time..." but "this is not easy…I don’t know…" when rejecting an invitation; indications are commonly used in the utterance. This is a profound culture of pretext.

There were many reasons caused the development of this pretext culture; it

soon became a skill to survive especially in the society with a population of over a billion, and you may have to keep secrets and also maintain peaceful interpersonal relationships. Mark began to understand after seen more in China, sometimes "No" is probably a "Yes", sometimes "maybe" but actually "No problem at all". In Chinese culture, "maybe" and double negation are used for speaking indirectly. Take "who knows" to replace "everyone knows", and "I really couldn’t not to do this" represents "I must be…"

Words, actions and utterances are all going round and round in one’s mind.

And that made Mark realized, "In order to understand China, you must learn how to sophisticatedly hide who you are, and that you have to be a Chinese first. And to be a Chinese, which means you have to immerse yourself in the study of Chinese language and Chinese culture." which totally have no idea whether it is a complaint or obsession of him.

But one thing we are sure is our American friend has stayed in China for 11 years and did well practiced brush calligraphy.

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《多元文化 : 認識我自己的漫漫長路》 （"Cultures, My Odyssey of Self-Discovery"）

Chinese People with "Mask" Wearing "Wearing mask" usually means you are not being true, but I prefer to believe that most of the Chinese people wearing "mask" are having a better intention.

In the series of the Chinese Zodiac in the book Fairy Tales of Zheng Yuanjie, there was a story about the King of Snake. The King of Snake was born in a family as being a human, but he intentionally did trick to the whole family and that they had nightmare about fighting with other family members. However, on the next day, they were still smiling to the others.

The King of Snake was much moved by that, he realized that the greatness of human beings, no matter what but try not to embarrass people.

As so to the mask in China, it is just the most appropriate way people choose. And one incident Mark experienced which stated in Nairobi To Shenzhen had proved.

The girl opposite to the main character of the story was chatting with 4 people at the same time via Skype. To each of the interlocutors, the girl was playing different roles.

"Let’s shopping! We can go to Huaqiang Road first and then go yum cha."

She spoke in Cantonese in local China.

"Don’t hang up." She said and connected to another interlocutor at the same time. And this one, she spoke in Putonghua with a flat tone and no 64

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《從內羅畢到深圳》 （"Nairobi To Shenzhen"）

emotions, "I think I can persuade him to buy more, but I need more time."

After that, she connected to one another interlocutor and this time was in English, "You are so BAAAAD. You teach me, OKAY?" said with giggles.

And then, she spoke a string of simple sentences in Chinese slowly like a foreigner.

Under these several different circumstances, the girl had totally different facial expressions and tones of voice. However, all the masks were real under different circumstances. And that made Mark clarified one thing: Chinese are like those superb actors, when they are acting as different roles, they threw their own character away temporarily until they get back to their whole self.

Mark can always discover these normal but interesting things in China, and what more interesting to him is, he also found himself here.

Art and Charity of Mark Earning money is just a small part of Mark’s colourful life in China. He has a bigger dream which is expand more in the field of art and charity; the same time fully embody his self-value and help more people who need help.

The week before Mark met his Chinese wife, he went to an orphanage in Shenzhen and visited the children there; he still could not forget what

"At that moment, my feeling was that the child would not think whether I am Chinese or American, yellow or white; what he wants is just love. "

「在那一刻，我覺得這個孩子根本不會去想，我是中國人還是美國人， 我是黃種人還是白種人，他想要的只有愛。」

馬克的毛筆書法（Mark's brush calligraphy）

happened at that time. In the hall on the second floor, he saw little orphans were being put on the little beds which could only allow them to see the ceiling. He walked close to one of them, and touched the child by his finger. Suddenly, the child grasped his finger tightly and looked at him with his shiny black eyes. The child did not let go even when Mark was trying to get back his hand. "At that moment, my feeling was that child would not think whether I am Chinese or American, yellow or white; what he wants is just love."

There were many people already started to concern and participated in charity works, but mainly were about goods offering while Mark did more about what focus on soul. As having some achievements in music, he loves to combine music and charity and takes this art form to help those people in difficult position, especially young children. He said, "Combining art and charity and offer to children is a beautiful gift. It could inspire them and help building up their confidence." Until now, Mark still continuously goes to the orphanage and teaches the children to play piano every week, and he "feels fantastic" every time.

In 2009 and 2011, Mark has been appointed Volunteer Image Ambassador and Special Olympics Image Ambassador by China. He established his foundation in 2013 aimed to encourage the cultural exchange between Africa, Asia and America. However, he keeps a low profile in his lives in China, rarely attends public event, but he would usually love to go for charity performances and talk invitations.

Story in China of Mark Obama Ndesandjo after Nairobi To Shenzhen is still going on. He finds China out here and also seeks for oneself; and for the result, we might could have found in his new book Cultures, My Odyssey of Self-Discovery a memoir of him.

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酒壇（Wine jar）

The Most

Mysterious Bouquet 最

神

秘

的

酒

香

TEXT / 文：Laura Su TRANSLATION / 譯 : Cathy Lin

"With ale, leavening, rich aroma of grain such as wheat and rice-like, and a little bit soybean paste; these made a breath of foreign land. Together with a strong and contrastive taste of strawberry, mango, coconut, smell of grass and flower, fresh sour and smell of grill. Ripe banana, dark chocolate, cocoa, dark beer, caramel and aroma of walnut wood mix with a strong taste of millet; feel fresh like mint, texture is mellow and balanced, has clear layers and long aftertaste."

These were the comments about Moutai made by wine critics at the 2012 World Spirits Competition. 「具有麥芽酒、發酵物、馥郁的穀物芳香如小麥和類稻米香，並帶少許大 豆醬香，有着異域芳香的氣息。士多啤梨、芒果、椰肉、青草芳香和花 香、新鮮酸味和烤肉味，構成對比强烈的味道。熟香蕉、黑朱古力、可 可、黑啤、焦糖和胡桃木香，混合了强烈的粟類味道，有薄荷清涼感，口 感馥郁均衡，層次分明，餘味悠長。」 這是在 2012 年世界烈酒大賽中，酒評家們對茅台酒作出的評價。

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n China, the special fragrance and aroma of Moutai were particularly named as "Jiang-flavour", with fragrance and aroma the much, the richest, the most balanced, the many layers and also the most mysterious in the world.

"You" ( 酉 ; means Liquor), a magical Chinese character evolved from the shape of ancient liquor utensil, became name and form of liquor in the very beginning; and in Chishui River in Southwest China, time even sublimated it to a unique bouquet: an evolution of "You" to "Jiang" ( 醬 ; means Paste), and that also implied an old and long brewing history of Moutai.

The valley of Chishui River where the liquor factory of Moutai is located is just 400 meters more above sea level, but the Dalou Mountains around are averagely over 1,000 meters above sea level; the big difference in heights formed a huge "wine-steamer-like" environment, plus the Chishui River keeps flowing all year round; all those elements therefore created a climate with nice weather and temperature. Hence hundreds of microbes live actively in the factory environment and benefits the brewing process; these invisible and untouchable elves affect the formation of the Jiang-flavour directly.

Four-seasons Brewing During its whole year producing period of Moutai, organic sorghum and wheat manufactured around the river valley area provide essential bouquet contents for this unique "Jiang-flavour". Within a year's time, these two kinds of organic grain experienced the brewing sections like batch feeding, cooking, starter propagation, materials storing, materials adding, stacking, fermenting and distilling etc.; these unique and mysterious techniques are already being inherited for a thousand years.

With microbes’ sufficient acting, the liquor enriched by the nature was being brewed in the cellars with different types and processed to mixing after that; when the whole process is done, 5 years has passed.

At that time, Moutai is intoxicating enough. The judge in San Francisco World Spirits Competition, cocktail columnist in magazine Malt Advocate said, "Kweichow Moutai is, one of the liquors with the most complicated and interesting texture on the planet, and this valuable opportunity to visit the factory of Kweichow Moutai even assured me the rare preciousness of being that mellow."

The Most Complicated Aroma The main content of this Jiang-flavour liquor with "the most complicated texture" still could not be confirmed. As early as 1982, Japanese scholars used the Gas chromatography–mass spectrometry method to analyze the bouquets of Moutai, and resulted that there are 230 kinds.

A long-term scientific study shows Moutai has more than one thousand kinds of volatile and non-volatile components, and volume of different types of aroma are all comparatively higher. Beside the fragrant materials like ester, alcohol, aldehyde and acid, it contains other materials which are good for health like natural pyrazine, natural homofuraneol, 5-HMF and coumarone etc., which are also very important for forming the unique

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Jiang-flavour.

You may say, Jiang-flavour liquor is the grain distilled spirit with the most complicated aroma in the world, and Moutai as one of them has the best quality.

Feature video "Chishui in nature" filmed by CCTV, China displays the beauty of Chishui River and Moutai liquor making, lofty mountains set against the serpentine course of the river, amazing like a painting. And now, Moutai has brewed not only a long lasting Jiang-flavour for more than 2,000 years, but has recorded a scroll of ancient Chinese liquor culture.

中國，茅台酒這種特殊的香氣及香味，有一個專用的

茅台酒廠所在地的赤水河谷海拔不過四百餘米，而四周大

名稱——「醬香」，這是世界上所有蒸餾酒中香氣及香

婁山群峰的海拔均在一千米以上，高低落差彷彿形成一個巨大的

味成份最多、最豐富、最協調、最具層次感，同時也

「酒甑」，加上赤水河終年奔流，孕育出冬暖夏熱、風微雨少、日

是最神秘的香型。 「酉」，由古代酒器的形狀演變而成的這個神奇漢字，成為了 酒最初始的稱謂與形態；而在中國西南的赤水河，它又被歲月昇 華成一種獨一無二的酒香——「酉」到「醬」的演變，也正暗藏了 茅台酒古老而悠久的釀造歷史。

照充足的特質氣候。於是，在茅台酒廠的環境中有數百種宜於釀 酒的微生物得以十分活躍地繁衍生息，這些看不見、摸不着的小 精靈，對醬香的形成產生了直接影響。

四季的釀造 在茅台酒歷經整整一年的生產周期裡，茅台鎮周圍河谷地區 出產的有機高粱和小麥，為這個獨特的「醬香」提供了不可或缺 的香味成份。在這一年中，這兩種有機穀物經歷了投料、蒸煮、 製曲、存曲、加曲、堆積、發酵、取酒等所有的釀造環節，而這 些獨特神秘的工藝已傳承了千年。 在釀酒微生物的充分活動下，吸取了四季天地靈氣精華的酒液 在分型窖藏陳釀後進行精心調配，時光已經流逝了五個春夏秋冬。 這時的茅台酒已是奇香醉人。舊金山世界烈酒大賽評委、 《Malt Advocate》雜誌雞尾酒專欄作家 Dave Wondrich 說：「貴 州茅台是這個星球上，口感最複雜和有趣的烈酒之一，而一次參 觀貴州茅台酒廠的珍貴機會，更讓我確信這種醇厚的口感並不是 沒來由的。」

最複雜的香味 這種「口感最複雜」的醬香美酒的主要成份究竟是什麼，至 今尚沒有非常確實的結論。早在 1982 年，日本學者曾採取氣相 色譜與質譜聯用，剖析出茅台酒中香氣和香味成份達 230 種。 長期的科學研究顯示，茅台酒中含有 1,000 多種揮發性或半 揮發性成分，當中各種芳香氣味的成分含量都相對較高。除了含 有類似於濃香型和清香型的一些酯、醇、醛、酸等物質以外，茅 台酒還含有其他有益於人體健康的物質，如天然吡嗪、天然醬油 酮、5-HMF、香豆酮等，它們亦同時對獨特醬香的形成起着重要 的作用。 可以說，醬香型酒是世界上香氣和香味最複雜的穀物蒸餾酒， 而茅台酒又是品質最好的醬香型白酒。 在中國CCTV的專題影片——《天生赤水》中，我們看到了一幅 幅關於赤水河、關於茅台酒的絕美畫面，巍巍青山中映襯着那條蜿 蜒迤邐的美酒河，優美如畫。如今，茅台釀造的不只是兩千年多年 的幽幽醬香，還留下了那一簾古老中國醇厚芬芳的文化畫卷。

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Concept of

P.F.Chang’s

in Making Chinese Cuisine P.F.Chang's的中餐主義 TEXT/ 文：羅思丁 , Laura IMAGE/ 圖：羅思丁 , Laura TRANSLATION/ 譯 : Cathy Lin

P.F. Chang's, a high-end Chinese restaurant chains established in 1993, expanded to have more than 200 restaurants in the United States, and has listed in NASDAQ. At first, their name "P.F. Chang's" is confusing and led people to think it is owned by a Chinese, but actually, both of the founders Paul Fleming and Philip Chiang are not. Paul Fleming who has been to China for many times and loves Chinese cuisine, invited Philip Chiang who has the same idea to build up a unique brand of Chinese restaurant together.

They combined their names and particularly changed the spelling of Chiang to Chang in order to have a feature of Chinese language as the name of their restaurant. The concept of their restaurant combining Chinese and Western styles could be found in the name, and also their food. As being the biggest high-end Chinese restaurant chains, they tend to bring Chinese cuisine in a sophisticated and healthy way to the west.

P.F. Chang's 是一家於 1993 年開辦的連鎖高檔中餐廳，至今在美國擁有 200 多家分店，並已在納斯達克上市。初看「P.F. Chang's」以為是一個中 國人名字的縮寫，豈料兩位始創人 Paul Fleming 和 Philip Chiang 原來都 不是華人。曾經多次到過中國的 Paul Fleming，由於特別喜愛中菜，於是 找來志同道合的 Philip Chiang，決心創建一個別具特色的中餐館品牌。 他們把兩人的名字縮寫結合，然後特意將 Chiang 改為 Chang，於是就成 了這個融合着二人而同時具有中文色彩的店名。這個中西合璧的概念，也 同時體現在餐廳的飲食主義之中——作為全美最大的連鎖高檔中餐廳，做 精緻、健康的中餐，然後帶進西方世界。 MOUTAI Magazine

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eople could find Chinese restaurants in different styles everywhere in the states, no matter bustling Manhattan or far away small town; but most of them are low priced. That was the reason when P.F. Chang's first appeared in Scottsdale, Arizona 20 years ago with its trendy exterior, antique Terracotta Warriors and sculptures of horse decoration, as well as its location in the heart of the city; people could not believe that was actually a Chinese restaurant.

Name “P.F. Chang’s” confused people to think it is an initial name of a Chinese, who particularly came from Hong Kong, Macau or Taiwan.

But in fact, 2 founders are both not Chinese. One of the founders Paul Fleming who has been to China for many times and loves Chinese cuisine, invited Philip Chiang who has the same idea to build up a unique brand of restaurant, and therefore named it with the combination of both of their names, changed the spelling Chiang to Chang in order to have a feature of Chinese language; that is how they want to be Sino-Western.

Huge war-horses put in the front door of all restaurants, decoration of Chinese ancient lady murals and sophisticated Chinese calligraphies, together with a bar counter in this totally Chinese setting, customers are having different skin colours; atmosphere of the restaurant is just peaceful with two cultures well mixed.

And that mix of Chinese and Western styles is doubtlessly also presenting by the menu.

We all knew that salad is not a dish Chinese cuisine would have, you are no way to find it in any typical Chinese restaurant; but that could not be applied in P.F. Chang’s. They have salad menu and definitely take the dish serious as the ingredient picked like tuna or crab are all having the best quality.

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Sophisticated Chinese Cuisine Make it sophisticated is a must for westernized Chinese cuisine to be high-end. The menu of P.F. Chang’s shows they have no big difference in the dishes choice from Panda Express; spring rolls, fried wontons and dumplings those American find essential as appetizers could still be found here. But what P.F. Chang’s got is unlike the normal one to have only one kind of stuffing for spring rolls, besides meat they also serve vegetarian.

Same case for wontons, they have meat and crab two kinds of stuffing and that is the way they are.

Meanwhile being sophisticated, P.F. Chang’s chooses some special ingredients for their Chinese cuisine to bring more interesting flavors.

Peking duck the dish which is well-known to every Chinese people, has been given a new face in the menu of P.F. Chang’s. Green papaya, mango and duck in a roll maybe not really odd for American; but to Chinese, when sweet bean sauce is replaced by Mango juice, taste is innovated.

Manager Kelly Alter of the P.F. Chang’s restaurant in Pasadena said they have different styles of Chinese cuisine like Cantonese cuisine, Shangdong cuisine, Sichuan cuisine and Mongolian cuisine etc. When setting up the business, all dishes taught and trained by a Chinese chef from Irvine, California who visited all the restaurants around the states. Now, P.F. Chang’s still remaining asking chefs to first have 2-month training; from cutting skill to seasoning skill and until they could well used all the techniques of cooking Chinese cuisine. P.F. Chang’s also have assigned touring chef to provide training and new dishes instructing nationwide to ensure the quality of dishes. Although most of the chefs from P.F. Chang’s are westerner, they produce remarkable Chinese dishes.

Innovation of "Healthy Chinese Cuisine" P.F. Chang’s would like to innovate not only the flavor of Chinese cuisine but also its image; no longer cheap, greasy and unhealthy. The use of vegetarian or crab stuffing for spring rolls and wontons could absolutely change the image of traditional Chinese cuisine do, no more cheap ingredients like pork or chicken, the restaurant is being upgraded. No wonder even a dish traditional like Mapo Tofu, they added broccoli and Sriracha hot chili sauce to enhance it from being normal and cheap.

Customers would definitely not only look for a high-end dining but also healthy and tasty. P.F. Chang’s is always trying to turn Chinese cuisine be more healthy, Mapo Tofu with broccoli is an example like added a healthy mark on it. Their restaurants even prepared booklets with nutrition information of every dish listed, for example, the dish Mongolian beef has 720cal and the dish KungPao shrimp has 820cal. Though customers order food would not follow the nutrition booklet, they clarified themselves as Chinese restaurant, health is above flavour to them. Instead of fry with oil, they boil side dishes just like Western cuisine do is also a proof of looking for healthy, and that somehow matches the style of China’s Cantonese cuisine light and fine; at the end, cooking styles are just all from the same origin.

Home Office Address: 7676 E. Pinnacle Peak Rd. Scottsdale, AZ 85255 You can enjoy the unique food of P.F.Chang's in the following countries: U.S.A., Argentina, Bahrain, Canada, Chile, Colombia, Jordon, Kuwait, Lebanon, Mexico, Puerto Rico, Philippines, Turkey, and U.A.E. For more information, please visit the web site: http://www.pfchangs.com

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HARMONY 和 CRAIG AU-YEUNG COLUMN 歐陽應霽專欄

Braised Pork Rice and Papaya Milk

魯肉飯與木瓜牛奶 TEXT/ 文：Craig Au-yeung 歐陽應霽 TRANSLATION/ 譯：Cathy Lin

here are some of my friends who are veggie, no matter reason of health or religion. I always understand and definitely respect that, therefore as being the person who is always responsible to order dish, I would first take care of these vegetarian friends when having meal together; and so the proportion and opportunity of eating vegetable for us the meat eater get higher. But at the end, it is still far away for me to be a veggie; it is a practice not only physically but mentally.

So when I close my eyes, I could still see different parts of pork, beef and lamb, cut to varied sizes and thicknesses, evoked my desire of eating: Grilled steak with mustard, fine thin cut Mongolian lamb for hotpot and Braised pork rump cooked soft to melt; all slide showing in my mind, and doubtlessly to mention the cannot-stop-eating Braised pork rice every time when I am in Taipei.

The "braised" of Braised pork rice in Chinese language might have written in a wrong way? But anyways, it is pork cubes or minced pork cooked with soy sauce, gravy and Chinese onion. The restaurants serve Braised pork rice are used to have choices of Pork sauce rice and Stewed pork rice; the first one uses minced pork while the second one uses pork belly, place on a small bowl of rice with their special gravy and few pieces of pickled cucumbers, a hot bowl you completely cannot say no to it.

Besides particularly picking the ingredients and ways for cooking pork, choice of rice is also very important to them; there are supporters of both Xiluo rice No. 5 and Taitung crystal rice, piggish eater may look for the best Braised pork rice all around Taiwan only for this single reason. I was once just finished a bowl and trying to get one more, suddenly it recalled my memories of eating stewed pork with soy sauce made by my grandparents when I was young; that makes use of pork belly, stewed with soy sauce, Chinese onion and many many cane sugar. Three or more hours later it became a dish well matched with rice; but there is one more amazing way to enjoy and which is eating with soft bread, after finished all pork you could still take bread dip in the remaining sauce. No any concern about being rude, just to enjoy the food is great, and that is the taste memory my grandfather who came from Kinmen left to me, memory about Fujian, Taiwan and Hong Kong.

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And when I just finished eating Braised pork rice in the street in Taipei, what to do next for sure is to enjoy a cup of Papaya milk. Papaya and milk were seems unlikely to get together, but then one day, they met each other finally — the exact date may not be found out, but definitely it was originated in this beautiful island Taiwan. A place produces fruit with rich variety, they are no way to let go any chance to show off the charm of fruits: sweet papaya and creamy milk once they are married and mixed, try one and you will know the meaning of born for each other.

I had worked in Taiwan, a year passed quickly. There are 365 days in a year, but I am afraid cups of papaya milk I had drunk were not only 365; sometimes even I had drunk one with breakfast, I wanted to have another one again at tea time. The craziness of mine in love with eating and drinking are even more than a human being; and that is how I used to be indeed. One day if I need to write a confession of eating and drinking, I could really divide my life to Stir-fried rice noodles with beef period, Tempura prawns period, Papaya milk period, Dan dan noodles period and Cheese cake period etc. The length of these periods shortest from half a year to twenty or thirty years, what more is some of the periods might had overlapped, or even last for whole life long. But there is one thing I am very sure: I am always indulging myself to enjoy every kind of loved food, passionate enough with no hesitation at all. And that also noticed me that my stomach is actually not bad when thinking of the Papaya milk period: a weaker person must have diarrhea if he were me.

Though my passion about Papaya milk has less for a little bit now, but I still would not hesitate if I have a chance to get one, and even more fastidious.

The best kind of papaya is definitely have to be ripe on the tree and juicy, those picked off the tree too early for delivery would have a little bit green and bitter taste, no matter they were already ripe artificially; or choose those organic papaya is even better if possible. For milk, the most favourite kind of mine these years is the whole milk of Taiwanese brand Lin Fengying, the silky creamy and tasty texture of it is demonstrating how milk should be. A Taiwanese friend of mine had made me organic Papaya Lin Fengying milk; what should be spotlighted is no longer its high nutritional value; but the happiness and satisfaction it brought to me.

邊不乏吃素的人，無論是因為健康理由還是宗教原因。

當木瓜終於遇上牛奶──正確懈逅日子看來也不可考，但創意來

我從來都十分理解和絕對尊重──同枱吃飯，負責點菜

源地當然就是寶島台灣。盛產水果的地方，當然不會放過任何可

的我還會首先照顧這些吃素的朋友，也因如此，增加

以把水果魅力發揚和發揮到極致的機會，木瓜的清甜，牛奶的濃

了我們這些食肉獸吃素的比例和機會。但說到底，自問距離可以 清心寡「肉」的境界還有好一大段路，那是遙不可及的一種超脫、 一種修為。

香，二合一結婚禮成，喝一口你會明白什麼叫天造地設。 那年在台灣工作，留下來一晃眼就是一年。一年三百六十五 日，恐怕我喝的木瓜牛奶不只三百六十五杯；因為明明早餐時候

所以閉上眼，面前還是會出現切割成各種姿態的豬牛羊，不

喝過了，下午茶時候又再心思思起來。喜歡一個人倒沒有那麼狂

同部位不同大小厚薄，肉誘勾起心癮：從那只沾海鹽和芥末的炭

熱，愛吃愛喝倒是可以瘋到極點，想起來確實也一直在這樣一種

燒美國牛扒到那巧手薄片如紙的準備下鍋涮過痛快的蒙古羊肉，

狀態。如果有天要寫吃喝懺悔錄，真的可以把自己的生平分作乾

以至那燉煮得酥軟靡爛入口溶化的紅燒蹄膀一一在腦海輪流搜

炒牛河時期、天婦羅炸蝦時期、木瓜牛奶時期、擔擔麵時期、芝

畫，當然還有那每到台北都忍不住吃罷一碗又一碗的魯肉飯。

士蛋糕時期等等等等。這些時期的長短，由一年半載至二、三十

魯肉飯的「魯」，該是鹵和滷的音誤？反正就是將豬肉切丁塊

年不等，更多的是這好幾個時期曾重疊交替，甚至延續終生。但

或者絞成肉碎，加醬油加蔥酥和滷汁燒成。一般打着魯肉飯招牌

肯定的是，對每一種死忠至愛都採取放任放盡的一往無前的政

的，都會有肉臊飯和焢肉（爌肉）飯的選擇，前者都是碎肉，後

策，熱情超標，才算轟烈。想起來，我的那個木瓜牛奶時期，腸

者一片肥美五花肉，都放在小小一碗滿滿米飯上面，淋上秘製滷

胃功能的確也算不錯，換了身邊一些體質稍弱的傢伙，不一天到

肉汁再加一兩片醬瓜，熱騰騰一碗在面前叫人無法抗拒。 各自講究滷肉的材料選擇和製作方法程序，也對用米的要求 十分挑剔。西螺五號米和台東水晶米都各有擁戴，饞嘴貪吃的大 抵可以為此單一理由走遍台灣全省訪尋至正滷肉飯。有一回剛吃 罷一碗打算 encore，忽然記起，小時候外公外婆最拿手親做的 醬油炆豬肉，也就是用切成小片的五花肉，用醬油用蔥段還要加 很多很多蔗糖（片糖）去燒去炆。三數小時成品後固然可以下飯， 還有一個難忘的吃法是夾進鬆軟的白麵包大口大口的吃，肉吃光 了還可以手撕麵包蘸透剩下的醬油──不嫌粗魯，有肉就香有汁

晚上廁所拉肚子才怪。 現在雖然對木瓜牛奶的熱情稍退，但一碰上機會，還是會趕 快爭嚐一口，而且刁鑽挑剔更有增無減。木瓜當然要挑樹上自然 熟透、飽滿多汁的，過早採摘方便運送的，即使如何人工催熟也 會有一種青澀苦味；如果可能也應該選擇未經基因改造的有機木 瓜品種。至於牛奶，近年的至愛是台灣林鳳營的全脂鮮奶，其香 濃其厚滑，每一口都告訴大家牛奶本該如此。喝過台灣朋友親手 打造的有機木瓜林鳳營牛奶，那種幸福和滿足，遠超其本來已經 很高的營養價值。

就好，這也是祖籍金門的外公留給我的福建──台灣──香港味 道記憶。 而在台北街頭吃罷魯肉飯，緊接的動作就是要找個地方喝木 瓜牛奶。本來木瓜就是木瓜，牛奶就是牛奶，但當有這麼一天，

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DRINKING INTELLECTUALLY 3 文字飲之三

James Cahill's Valentine

高居翰的情人 TEXT & TRANSLATION/ 文及譯：Dong, Tiezhu 董鐵柱

Doubtlessly, Chinese painting was Cahill’s best Valentine. It was from Chinese painting that he found peace and freedom, although we do not know if it was his goal when he began studying Chinese arts half a century ago. 伴隨了他半個多世紀的中國繪畫，無疑是高居翰最好的情人。從 中國藝術中尋找到了平靜和超脫，這不知是否就是年輕的高居翰 開始漢學研究時的初衷。

am now pretty much confined to bed, and have to recognize this as my future……So I am only an inert being able to think and talk but not do much else." In January, Cahill sighed in his blog, more like joking with optimism. It had been long time since Cahill, the famous sinologist who had been exploring the world of Chinese painting for a few decades, was forced to rest on bed because of illness. To him, the pending death was not a taboo. In last a few months, he mentioned many of his friends who passed away. He knew there was little time waiting for him, but still planned to, with his friends, organize an exhibition of Zhang Daqian, a famous Chinese painter. He even told his email address to his fans on the blog, and invited friends, known or unknown by person, to stop by at his house if possible. Cahill wanted to talk, and it was Chinese painting that Cahill wanted to talk with his friends.

It was the last post on his blog. One month later, Cahill rode the crane to the west while the sunshine of Valentine’s Day was touching the bay area.

In Chinese culture, riding the crane to the west means going to the Heaven, where Cahill could find whether Huang Gongwang, the prestigious painter of Dwelling in the Fuchun Mountains, became immortal; could also discuss with Ni Zan, the famous painter in the Yuan dynasty, about the reason he never painted any people in his paintings of landscapes. Doubtlessly, Chinese painting was Cahill’s best Valentine. It was from Chinese painting that he found peace and freedom, although we do not know if it was his goal when he began studying Chinese arts half a century ago.

James Cahill was born in 1926, the same year Allen Ginsberg, the influential poet and leading figure of the Beat Generation, was born. It was an unfortunate generation, it was a fortunate generation. Their youth was destroyed in the Second World War, and there came Ginsberg’s poetic howl "Go fuck yourself with your atom bomb." But the same war also pushed them to know the other side of the world. Sinology became popular in the United States after the war. Cahill went to Berkeley to study Asian culture 76

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in 1946, and chose to pursue his Ph. D in Chinese arts at the University of Michigan, another headquarter of Asian studies in the US. From 20 to 32, Cahill became an expert in Chinese arts with his unique research methodology, and more importantly, with his peaceful personality. Thinking replaced howling.

Unsurprisingly, Cahill’s thinking was also full of the sharpness of that generation. He claimed that we should appreciate Chinese painting by our vision. In the preface of Compelling Image: Nature and Style in SeventeenCentury Chinese Painting, Cahill pointed out that he did not care about what the history of the Ming and Qing dynasties could help us understand Chinese painting. On the contrary, he wanted to know that what the paintings themselves could tell us, what kind of information the paintings were trying to communicate with us, and what we could know about that historical period from these paintings. Such an announcement is not merely a statement of methodology, but a challenge, with the characteristic of the Beat Generation, to the conservative methodologies of old schools. For many years, scholars of Chinese paintings had emphasized the importance of text, emphasized how to appreciate paintings according to painters’ lives and historical backgrounds. Cahill thought these scholars went on a wrong track by ignoring the paintings themselves, and his research was aimed to open a new era.

Let the lines and colours tell you why they were combined together. It is the direct communication between the appreciators and painters. What the appreciators see from the paintings is nothing but their own minds.

As such, Cahill saw Chinese paintings as a mirror of his heart. He liked the Yuan painter Wang Meng’s The Recluse Life in Qingbian very much, because of its seemingly disorderly structure. Usually, people wanted to see "true landscape," and imagined to go into the paintings and take a trip.

But Wang Meng’s painting gave people no exits. No one could find a route to take a thorough look of the landscape from his brush. To Cahill who

witnessed the cruelty of war and the depression after the war, "no exits" was the true portrayal of reality. Therefore, Cahill argued that Wang Meng was great because he could use his brush to do an expressionistic performance seven hundred years ago, and hailed Wang as China’s Van Gogh.

From Hills Beyond a River, Cahill has written a series of books about Chinese traditional painting, which were his thought of different periods of Chinese paintings, as well as his self- retrospection from different ages.

He planned to write the painting from the Yuan dynasty to the middle of last century, recording his thinking of life while narrating the history of Chinese painting. He did not finish the project. No regret, however. Six years ago, Berkeley held an academic conference in order to celebrate the 15th anniversary of Cahill’s retirement. Because of his health situation, Cahill went back home after listening to just one talk. For him, it was more important to stay with his four children and six grand-daughters at home.

He always said that it was a blessing to have so many descendants around him. Perhaps it was one of the signs of how Chinese culture influenced him. As everyone knows, Ginsberg passed away 17 years ago, lonely. 「

現在差不多只能呆在床上，而 且不得不承認在這輩子剩下的 日子裏，都會這樣⋯⋯我動彈 不得，卻還能思考，還能聊天。」2014 年 1 月，高居翰在博客裏這樣感歎着，帶着 一份戲謔、一份樂觀。這位在中國畫的 世界裏徜徉了幾十年的著名漢學家，因 病臥床的時間已經不短了，他並不忌諱談到時刻可能到來的死 亡；過去的幾個月裏，他的博客都記載了多位老友的離世。即使 知道自己時日無多，他還在和朋友商量辦一場張大千的畫展，並 且在博客裏曬出了自己的郵箱，把所有認識的或是不認識的朋友 統統都邀請過來。如果計劃造訪灣區，那麼可以去伯克利看他， 陪他聊天，聊聊中國的繪畫。

年便求學於美國加州大學伯克利分校遠東語言文化系；大學畢業 後，又在另一個東亞研究的重鎮密歇根獲得了博士頭銜。從二十 歲到三十二歲，這十二年間高居翰從中國文化的門外漢變成了中 國藝術的專家，有了自己獨特的研究方法，更養成了恬淡的個 性，用思考替代了怒吼。 但是，高居翰的思考同樣充滿了那一代人的銳意。他獨樹一 幟地提出了「以視覺為中心」的研究方法。在探討明清繪畫的《氣 勢撼人》一書序言中，他明確指出「關於繪畫，明清歷史等，究 竟能告訴我們些什麼？這不是我關心的主題。相反，我所在意的 是，明末清初的繪畫充滿了變化、活力與複雜性，這些作品向我 們傳達了什麼樣的時代信息，以及這樣的時代又充滿了怎樣的文 化張力？」這一宣言對傳統的研究方法，提出了挑戰，隱隱蘊含 着垮掉的一代所衝破陳舊樊籬的氣概。多年以來，研究中國繪畫 的學者們都強調文本，通過考察畫家的生平， 作品的年代來分析畫作的內涵，高居翰覺得 這樣忽略了畫作的本身，是完全的本末倒置。 讓畫作的線條和色彩告訴你，它們為何 和如何組合在一起，這是觀賞者和畫之間的 直接交流；從畫中看到的，是觀賞者自己的 內心。就這樣，高居翰把中國畫當做了自己 心靈的一面鏡子。元代名家王蒙在《青卞隱 居》中那看似錯亂的筆法讓他驚歎，原因是 在於一般的觀眾，都會「預期在畫中看到真 山水，想像自己進入畫中，然後循線幽遊一 番，可是沒有人能在《青卞隱居》中找到出路」。對於目睹了二 戰和戰後蕭條的高居翰來說，沒有出路才是現實的寫照，而王蒙 之所以偉大，也是因為在幾百年前就能有「表現主義式的精彩演 出」，完全可以和梵高相媲美。 從《隔江山色》開始，高居翰寫了一系列關於中國古代繪畫 的著作，這些著作既是他對於不同時代的中國畫的思索，更是他

那是他最後的一篇博客。一個月後，當情人節的陽光灑在舊

對於不同年紀的自己的內心的審視。按照他的設想，他想從元代

金山灣區時，高居翰駕鶴西去；去尋找黃公望是否得道成仙，去

一直寫到 20 世紀中葉，在書寫 800 多年中國繪畫史的同時，也記

和倪瓚切磋為何山水畫中無人了。伴隨了他半個多世紀的中國繪

錄下自己對於人生的思考。這一理想，雖然沒有實現，但是他並

畫，無疑是高居翰最好的情人。從中國藝術中尋找到平靜和超

沒有感到遺憾。6 年前伯克利為了紀念高居翰退休 15 年，特意辦

脫，這不知是否就是年輕的高居翰開始漢學研究時的初衷。

了一個學術會議，可是身體欠佳的他早早就退席了；對他來說，

高居翰出生於 1926 年，和著名詩人金斯堡同歲。那是不幸

在家裏等待着他的四個孩子和六個孫女是更大的寄託。晚年能子

的一代人，那是幸運的一代人。他們的青春在二戰的戰火中幻

孫滿堂兒孫繞膝，讓他在很多時候都覺得上天對他不薄。這樣的

滅，於是有了「垮掉的一代」，有了金斯堡的咆哮，讓美國「用

滿足，也許也是在中國文化浸淫過後的一種境界。大家都知道，

你的原子彈去操你自己」。但是，戰爭也讓他們更加迫切的去認

金斯堡在 17 年前就已經過世了，而且離世前仍是形單影隻⋯⋯

識外面的世界，漢學研究在戰後的美國興起，高居翰在戰後的次 MOUTAI Magazine

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Press Release Held in Paris for the Program "China-France 50 Years" At 3 pm March 11, 2014, Phoenix Satellite Television and Kweichow Moutai together held a press release in Pavillon Dauphine Paris for the program "China-France 50 Years". Pavillon Dauphine was the former China Pavilion of the France International Exposition a century ago and holding the press release here is of historic and diplomatic significance. About 100 participants from the French government, media of both countries, and the Chinese community of France were present in the press release.

The "China-France 50 Years" series program was first showed on March 14. In the program, key members from all levels of the politics, business, culture, and sports fields told important moments and periods of the diplomatic tie between China and France in the past half century by using their own experiences and wisdom. As sole sponsor of this program, Kweichow Moutai invited all guests present to enjoy the Moutai Feitian liquor in the banquet after the press release.

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《中國法國 50 年》 節目發佈會在巴黎舉行 2014 年 3 月 11 日 3 時正，鳳凰衛視聯手貴州茅台在巴黎 Pavillon Dauphine 舉行了《中國法國 50 年》節目的新聞發佈會。 Pavillon Dauphine 是百年前法國世博會時的中國館，鳳凰衛視和 貴州茅台在這裡舉行新聞發佈會充滿了歷史和外交意義。此次發 佈會吸引了法國政府人員、兩國媒體和法國華人圈代表等近百人 參加。 《中國法國五十年》系列節目於 2014 年 3 月 14 日首播，政商 文體各級的重要人物，將用各自的經歷和智慧來講述中法建交半 世紀以來的重要時刻和階段。貴州茅台作為這次節目的獨家冠名 贊助商，在新聞發佈會後的酒會中，也邀請在場的嘉賓們共同飲 用了茅台飛天酒。

在袁仁國（後右三） 、陳敏（後中）的見證下，房國興（前右） 、喬陽（前左）作為雙方公司簽約代表簽署合作協議 Witnessed by Yuan Renguo (rear, right third) and Chen Min (rear, middle), Fang Guoxing (front, right) and Qiao Yang (front, left) represent their own side to sign the cooperation agreement.

Moutai Group Is Upgrading Circular Economy

The expected annual output is 350 million RMB and the annual profit and tax are about 150 million RMB. (reported and photographed by Deng Chao)

On January 8, China Kweichow Moutai Distillery (Group) Co., Ltd. and CECEP Industry Development Co. Ltd. jointly signed an agreement to upgrade the circular economy.

It was reported that the completion of this project could help Moutai Group to solve the pollution problem of biomass and organic wastes, to improve the energy resource structure, and to raise the proportion of using clean and renewable energy. Through optimizing industrial structure and adopting new mode for circular economy, both social and economic benefits can be achieved.

The total investment for the project construction is about 500 million RMB.

茅台集團打造循環經濟升級版 2014 年 1 月 8 日，茅台集團循環經濟產投公司與中節能（北 京）實業發展公司簽約聯手打造茅台集團循環經濟升級版。據了 解，該項目的建成可以解決茅台集團公司的生物質有機廢棄物的 污染問題，改善茅台集團公司能源結構、提高清潔及可再生能源 使用的比例；優化產業結構，建設循環經濟新模式，實現經濟效 益和社會效益的雙豐收。項目建設總投資約 5 億元，預計可實現年 產值 3.5 億元人民幣，實現利稅約 1.5 億元人民幣。（攝影報導：鄧超）

Moutai Ranked First Among Liquor Brands in 2014 BrandZ Top 100 Most Valuable Chinese Brands

中國最具價值品牌榜公佈── 茅台居酒類品牌首位

Millward Brown ACSR just released the ranking of 2014 BrandZ Top 100 Most Valuable Chinese Brands on the other day. While the total value of Top 100 Chinese brands is US379.8 billion, Moutai listed the 12th with US10.5 billion value and became the only liquor enterprise in top 20.

Specialists assumed its distinguished quality is the reason for having the highest brand value among the liquor brands in China.

牌 100 強的排名。排名中的 100 個中國品牌價值合共 3,798 億

近日，華通明略發佈了 2014 年 BrandZ 最具價值中國品 美元，茅台以 105 億美元位列第 12 位，並成為該榜首 20 名中 唯一的一家酒類企業。業界專家認為，作為中國白酒龍頭，茅 台的品牌價值之所以能長期於行業中領跑，皆因其稟賦上乘的 品質。

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茅台集團公司總經理劉自力（中） ，茅台集團公司名譽董事長、技術總顧問季克良（左四） ，茅台集團紀委書記趙書躍（右四）出席發佈會 Liu Zili (general manager; middle), Ji Keliang (honorary president and chief technical consultant; left fourth), and Zhao Shuyue (secretary of committee for discipline inspection; right fourth) of Moutai Group were present in the press release.

Moutai's Baijin (White Gold) Cultural and Artistic Liquor "Succeed Immediately" Is Released Globally

茅台白金文化藝術酒「馬到成功」 全球發行

Recently, Moutai Winery released the limited Baijin Cultural and Artistic Liquor "Succeed Immediately". The press release was held in the Great Hall of the People, Beijing. Leaders of Moutai Group, including Liu Zili, Ji Keliang, and Zhao Shuyue, were present.

As another masterpiece of the Moutai Group, the "Succeed Immediately" liquor inherits brewing technology of the Moutai yeast flavour liquor which is stored for 5 years without adding any additive and turns out to be the best liquor with the most phenolic compounds, the highest acidity, and the most fragrant elements.Vessels for the "Succeed Immediately" liquor are a combination of the decoration technics and the Chinese painting and calligraphy arts, and integrate three Chinese traditional technics, that is, the lacquerware technics, ceramics arts, and the technics of painting, dyeing, and weaving. In other words, even a single wine bottle, package, or tag can convey the spirit of the Chinese traditional culture, and bring abundant sensory feelings such as fresh, aesthetic, classical, and elegant to consumers.

中國北京人民大會堂金色大廳舉行。茅台集團公司領導劉自力、

(photographed by Wang Qiuyan)

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近日，茅台限量推出白金文化藝術酒「馬到成功」，發佈會在 季克良及趙書躍等出席。 作為茅台集團的又一力作，白金文化藝術酒「馬到成功」繼承 了茅台醬香型白酒傳統釀造工藝，5 年窖藏，不添加任何添加劑而 達到酚類化合物最多、酸度最高、芳香成分最多的美酒臻品。其器 皿將中國書畫藝術和裝飾工藝融合，集漆器工藝、陶瓷藝術、印染 織造等三大中國傳統工藝於一身。 可以說，單是一個酒瓶、一個包裝、一個標籤，就已經滲透 出中國傳統文化的基因，令消費者從感官上體驗新鮮、唯美、經典 和高雅等豐富感受。（攝影：王秋豔）

The Welcoming National Liquor Moutai for the New Chinese Ambassador to France

貴州茅台酒進出口有限責任公司總經理安懷倫（中） An Huailun, general manager of Guizhou Moutai Chiew I/E Co., Ltd.（middle）

National Liquor Established Bridgehead for Entering the European Market As reported by Nouvelles D'Europe, Mr. An Huailun, general manager of Guizhou Moutai Chiew I/E Co., Ltd. accepted an interview in the famous Pavillon Dauphine of Paris.

In the interview, Mr. An detailed the history, technique, and development of the Moutai liquor. He said, "In 2013, China Moutai yielded 160 million USD in export, had 72 overseas agents, and owned 10 overseas retail stores, with a marketing network covering Asia, Europe, the Americas, Oceania, South Africa, and tax-free markets at important ports of China. To celebrate the 50th anniversary for the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and France, China Moutai set up its wholly-owned French subsidiary, Paris Moutai Trading Co., Ltd., marking a solid step toward its international strategy."

Mr. An added, "China Moutai will fully utilize the subsidiary as an important bridgehead for publicizing the Chinese national liquor culture aboard, and hopes to further promote the friendship between China and France through the Chinese quintessence, Moutai liquor."

打造「國酒」進軍歐洲的「橋頭堡」

On Jan 6, 2014, Zai Jun the 11th Chinese ambassador to France has arrived in Paris. In the morning time on 7 Jan, he then met Laurent Stefanini, the chief of protocol of the ministry of external affairs of France outside the Chinese Embassy; and sent him a copy of the letter of credence, Laurent Stefanini on behalf of French government received and expressed a welcome.

Zai Jun was appointed and arrived in France during the period of time celebrating the 50th anniversary of diplomatic relations between France and China as well as the Chinese New Year a traditional festival of China, he stated that he hopes to build up friendship with people from France and improve the strategic partnership to a higher level at this historical moment for both France and China.

As the new ambassador, Zai Jun was busy in attending more than hundred events of different fields and levels, which includes the event "Association des enterprises de Chine en France (AECF) ‘to celebrate Chinese New Year’ welcome dinner". The events had prepared art performances with Chinese elements that filled Paris with joy; as one of the top brands of China, Moutai was a must to be presented.

國酒茅台喜迎新任駐法大使 2014 年 1 月 6 日，中國第十一任駐法國大使翟雋抵達巴黎， 並於 1 月 7 日上午，在中國使館會見了法國外交部禮賓司司長斯 特法尼尼，向對方遞交國書副本，斯特法尼尼代表法國政府對翟 雋到任表示熱烈的歡迎。 翟雋的到任，恰逢中法建交 50 周年紀念和中國傳統佳節春節 到來之際，翟雋表示在中法建交 50 周年這一重要歷史時刻，期待 同法方各界人士建立友誼，共同推動中法全面戰略夥伴關係邁向 更高水平。作為新任大使，翟雋馬不停蹄地參加了「法國中資企 業協會『慶新春』招待晚宴」等上百場涉及各個領域各個階層的活 動，具有中國特色的藝術表演使巴黎的上空洋溢出濃郁的喜慶色 彩，作為中國名片的茅台酒更是其不可或缺的重要元素。

在巴黎著名的多芬樓（Le Pavillon Dauphine）， 《歐洲時 報》為中國貴州茅台酒進出口有限責任公司總經理安懷 倫進行了專訪。 專訪中，安懷倫詳細介紹了茅台酒的歷史、工藝與 發展。安總說：「2013 年茅台酒出口創匯 1.6 億美元， 擁有境外代理商 72 家及海外專賣店 10 間。銷售市場覆 蓋了亞洲、歐洲、美洲、大洋洲、南非以及中國重要口 岸的免稅市場。在中法建交 50 周年大喜之際，茅台設 立法國全資子公司——巴黎茅台貿易公司，標誌着茅台 的國際化戰略又邁出了堅實的一步。」 安懷倫又表示：「我們將充分利用好這一重要的海外 宣傳橋頭堡，做好有關國酒文化的宣傳。 希望在未來的日 子，茅台酒作為中國國粹，能夠為中法友誼再添光彩。」

新任駐法大使翟雋（左）在法國中資企業協會「慶新春」招待晚宴上留影。 Zai Jun (left), the new Chinese ambassador to France was at "Association des enterprises de Chine en France (AECF) 'to celebrate Chinese New Year' welcome dinner"

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HARMONY 和

Château Loudenne of Moutai in France Participated in French Wedding Salon Exhibition

Toulouse or Biarritz. 120 professional wedding studios participated this year and many famous media had reported the great event.(Image: Château

To the couple about to get married, it is very important for them to choose an ideal wedding venue. Chateau Loudenne of Moutai in France had participated in the 2014 French Wedding Salon Exhibition during 17-19 Jan, 2014.

Chateau Loudenne which is also named as "pink château" is always popular as a sightseeing point and wedding venue in France for more than 3 centuries. Its red wall carries romantic atmosphere and its beauty is decorated by the port, harbour, woods and lakes nearby to be elegant and gentle; which attracted many well-known noble-style weddings in history to be held here.

The chateau keeps organizing large scale wedding event recently for improving the skill of event planning and becoming more professional.

These made the historical and fabulous "pink château" more known for the world and we could see that many visitors had come for wedding planning.

The exhibition is held every year in either one of the three cities Bordeaux,

茅台海瑪酒莊應邀參展 法國婚禮沙龍博覽會

Loudenne of Moutai)

對於即將步入禮堂的新人而言，選擇一個理想的婚禮場地， 可謂是一道重要工序。2014 年元月 17-19 日，茅台法國海瑪酒莊 應邀參展 2014 法國婚禮沙龍博覽會。 三個多世紀以來，有着「粉紅城堡」之稱的海瑪酒莊（Château Loudenne）作為法國著名的旅遊城堡和舉辦婚禮的理想場所，一直 備受關注。城堡的紅色外牆充滿了羅曼蒂克的氣息，臨近海港的 天然位置讓它如同被港灣、森林和湖泊的錦緞點綴着一般，優美 而靜謐，歷史上許多著名的貴族式婚禮就在這裏籌辦。 近年來，酒莊積極籌辦大型婚禮項目，使團隊實力不斷提升 也更加專業。這一切都讓這個歷史悠久、風光迷人的「粉紅城堡」 更加聞名。因此在此次博覽會上，許多訪客慕名而來洽談婚禮籌 備事宜。 該博覽會每年都會在波爾多（Bordeaux）、圖盧茲（Toulouse）和比 阿裏茨（Biarritz）三大城市輪流舉辦。今年的博覽會共有 120 家專業 婚禮沙龍參展，吸引多家知名媒體如法國電視台、法國廣播台和法 國西南報等參與報道。（圖：茅台海瑪酒莊）

茅台法國海瑪酒庄 Chateau Loudenne of Moutai in France

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Château Loudenne Bordeaux of Moutai Won the First Prize at the Decanter World Wine Awards

茅台海瑪乾白在法國《醇鑒》雜誌 乾白評比中奪得桂冠

French magazine "Decanter" announced the result of rating Dry White; Château Loudenne of Moutai in France, one of the Dry White products in 2011 won the first prize with an outstanding scores 17.75/20.

The magazine "Decanter" has one of the most authoritative juries in liquor in the world, and they organise the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) annually which has the largest scale among the same ratings in wine in the world; many chateaus are honored to be entered to the last round for the International Trophy.

The winning Château Loudenne Bordeaux 2011 has a delicate fragrance with a fresh candle and tangerine smell, tastes smooth and sweet, and refreshes you to have a brand new feeling; or these might be the reasons of it being admired. (Image: Château Loudenne of Moutai)

公佈了乾白（Dry White）評比結果，茅台法國海瑪酒莊（Château

MOUTAI Magazine

法國《醇鑒》雜誌（又名《品醇客》，英文名 Decanter）日前 Loudenne）的一款 2011 年份乾白產品以 17.75/20 分的優異成績 奪得評比第一名。 《醇鑒》雜誌旗下的酒類評審團是國際上最有權威性的評審 團之一，該雜誌每年一次的醇鑒世界葡萄酒大賽（DWWA），於 同類葡萄酒賽事之中規模為世界最大，許多酒莊都以進入其最 終評比環節中的國際獎（International Trophy）而深感榮幸。 此次參評的 2011 海瑪酒莊乾白葡萄酒（Château Loudenne Bordeaux 2011）芳香撲鼻，清爽的蠟燭和橙子香氣讓人陶醉，然而 入口後口感圓潤，清涼甘甜，會完全顛覆你對她的最初印象，或 許這誘人的味道正是她備受青睞的原因所在。（圖：茅台海瑪酒莊）

China Moutai

First Retail Store Grandly Opened in Sydney, Australia

澳洲首家

中國茅台酒專賣店 於悉尼盛大開業

On March 18, 2014, China Moutai opened its first Australian store. Dozens of participants, including government officials from China and Australia, representatives of Australian Chinese, and enterprise representatives together witnessed this moment. Distinguished guests including China's consul general in Australia Li Huaxin, commercial counselor of the consulategeneral Peng Gang, and New South Wales Minister for Citizenship and Communities Victor Dominello were present on the opening ceremony. The lively atmosphere attracted the entire Sydney and various media scrambled to report this ceremony, demonstrating the great international prestige and influence of Moutai's brand.

China's consul general in Sydney Li Huaxin delivered a speech: "Moutai's presence in Australia delivers the 2000-year long brewing history and the traditional brewing technology of China's intangible cultural relics.

Moreover, it is also an epitome of liquor culture in China's thousands of years' civilization. Moutai bears the emotions and expectations of all overseas Chinese, and becomes the media and messenger of the Chinese culture.

In Sydney's retail store of Kweichow Moutai, you can enjoy the elegant environment with extreme oriental style and taste the unique flavour of the Chinese liquor.(This report is contributed by Guizhou Moutai Chiew I/E Co., Ltd.)

中國「國酒」茅台酒在澳洲的第一間專賣店已於 3 月 18 日在 悉尼隆重開業。來自中澳兩國的政府官員、澳洲華僑華人代表 和企業代表等數十人，共同見證了這一時刻。中國駐悉尼總領 事李華新、總領館經商室商務參贊彭剛和新南威爾士州公民及 社區事務廳長多米內羅等嘉賓出席了剪彩儀式，熱烈的氣氛轟 動了整個悉尼，媒體爭相報導，體現出茅台品牌極高的國際聲 望及影響力。 中國駐悉尼總領事李華新致詞時表示：「茅台酒來到澳洲， 所傳遞的不僅是其 2000 餘年的釀造歷史和國家非物質文化遺產 的傳統釀造工藝，它更是中華民族數千年文明史在酒文化中的 縮影，承載了廣大華人華僑的情感寄託，成為傳遞中國文化的 媒介和使者。」 在貴州茅台悉尼專賣店，您將領略極具東方風情的優雅環 （貴州茅台酒進出口有限責任公司供稿） 境，並感受中國美酒的獨特風味。

貴州茅台酒澳大利亞和新西蘭總經銷商：澳大利亞明耀貿易公司 Sole distributor of Kweichow Moutai in Australia and New Zealand: Evershine Australia Trading PTY Ltd. Address of the Sydney Moutai store: Shop 2, 398 Sussex Street, Haymarket, NSW 2000 Tele: 02 94757888 Email: info@evershine.com.au facebook.com/moutaiaustralia

“Chinese and Western Wine” 「中西名酒珍釀」 POLY AUCTION HONG KONG 2014 SPRING AUCTIONS

保利香港 2014 年春季拍賣

Hong Kong’s first auction of spirits of Chinese and western varieties, proudly present China Moutai of different years and whiskey of different origins and years, all rare and precious. 香港首次匯聚中國與西方不同類型之烈酒佳釀拍賣， 隆重呈獻各種年份的中國茅台及不同產地與年份的威士忌，瓶瓶珍貴罕見。