Moutai Magazine - International Edition Issue 4 Summer 2014 by MOUTAI Magazine - International Edition

Life, Wisdom

Explore the Civilization Appreciate the Wisdom 對話文明品味智慧

www.moutaichina.com

Moutai: Feitian 53% Kweichow Moutai Baccarat: Jeu crystal chess sets/Harcourt crystal cup Shooting location: Baccarat Showroom 1, Hoi Ping Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 茅台：53 度飛天貴州茅台酒 Baccarat：Jeu 水晶棋具 / Harcourt 水晶酒杯拍攝場地：香港銅鑼灣開平道 1 號 Baccarat 水晶展廳

中国 FRANCE

0 Years

周年

1964-2014

法国 C H I N A

Quality Witness 品質見證 Feel the Spirit of the Times Inherit the Extraordinary Moments www.moutaichina.com

感受時代精神傳遞非凡時刻

Summer Issue 2014 二零一四年夏季刊

CHAIRMAN MESSAGE

Mutual Cultural Attraction With Tacit Understanding

心靈暢通的文化吸引 China is not a nation or a nation-state, but fundamentally is a civilization, a very unique and very deep civilization. Impressed by the brilliance of cultural collision and the power of civilization dialogue between China and France, we have to admire the vision of Charles de Gaulle, the greatest president of France 50 years ago. For centuries, Chinese and French cultures are deeply attracted to each other. Paris is reputed as the "Sinology Capital" and French art is fashionable in China….All these gorgeous costumes, feast brilliance, touching music, attractive food, fragrant spirits, and historical imprint, are the result of cultural accumulation. China and France have equally profound and rich spirits culture; China Moutai and French Cognac Brandy are both top spirits in the world. Differences in national cultures and customs may bring different tastes; however, just as the words of the Chinese musician Chu Yibing, beauty or ugliness is just different life experiences brought by different cultures. When our minds are open, you have to believe that, as a silent language, fine spirits will lead your tongue to feel the cultural charm through time and space.

“中國不是一個民族或是一個國家，中國在根本上是一個文明，一個獨特而深厚的文明。” 今天中法兩國文化碰撞的亮色，文明對話的力量，讓我們不得不欽佩 50 年前戴高樂，這位公認為法國最偉大總統的高瞻遠矚。幾個世紀以來，文化使兩國相互吸引，巴黎被譽為“漢學之都”，法國藝術風靡華夏 ……那些同樣精美的華服、盛宴的光芒、動人的音樂、誘人的美食、芬芳的美酒、歷史的印記，他們的核心是文化的積澱。中法兩國擁有同樣悠久的酒文化，中國茅台酒是與法國科涅克白蘭地齊名的世界蒸餾名酒。不一樣的民族文化與風俗帶來口感的差異，然而，正如中國音樂家朱亦兵所言，美與醜不過是不同文化帶來的生命體驗。當我們心靈暢通時，你不得不相信，美酒這種無聲的語言，將讓你的舌尖感受跨越時空的文化魅力。

Yuan Renguo 袁仁國

Chairman of CHINA KWEICHOW MOUTAI DISTILLERY (GROUP) CO., LTD. and KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD. 中國貴州茅台酒廠（集團）有限責任公司貴州茅台酒股份有限公司董事長

CONTRIBUTORS

CHINA KWEICHOW MOUTAI DISTILLERY (GROUP) CO., LTD. Maotai, Renhuai City, Guizhou Province, China 564501

Yu Yat Yiu A talented well-known music producer. Music creations included pop music, musicals, dance music, movie and TV soundtracks. In 1997, Yu, Anthony Wong, and a team of musicians and artists established an independent music production company "People Mountain People Sea".

KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD.

Maotai, Renhuai City, Guizhou Province, China 564501 Production & Advertising Sales Agent: ER HONGKONG HOLDING LIMITED Room 2103, 21/F, Sino Plaza, No.255-257 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 3580 2598 Fax: (852) 3580 2588 Consultants : Yuan Renguo, Chen Min, Liu Zili, Zhao Shuyue, Fang Guoxing

Publisher Francis Wong

Chief Executive Officer Christine Yin Creative Director Dora Lu

Craig Au-yeung A cross-media artist who loves life, food and travel. Craig has been on a dedicated research on contemporary home living and architectural design, from which he writes articles that are featured in magazines in China, Hong Kong and Taiwan.

Managing Editor Konzen Hou Project Manager Grace Liu Art Director Johnny Woo

Senior Project Editor Laura Su, Elis Wang, Towerman Guo, Cher Chen Assistant Project Editor Nikita Wan Marketing Executive

Denise Chan

Photographers Han Xingxi, David Dai

Translators Billy Yung, Grace Liu, Denise Chan, Meng Yuan Advertising Enquires Tel: (852) 3580 2598 Email er-hk@everreliable.net

RIGHTS

Cheung Kam-moon

Moutai Magazine (international edition)

Cheung Kam-moon loves movies, stage performance, fine arts, travel, and golf, and he writes for magazines on all these subjects.

is published quarterly by ER HONGKONG HOLDING LIMITED under a licence by KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD. Reprints, copy or use of any content in this magazine whether in whole or in part, shall only be allowed with the explicit written permission of KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD.

No responsibility can be taken for unsolicited texts and photographs. The views and opinions expressed or implied in the articles do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher, editors or the licence holder.

All contents in this magazine have been complied with the best of our knowledge,

but no warranty or representation is given as to its accuracy, completeness, relevance, timeliness or otherwise. Moutai Magazine (international edition) appears quarterly with

editions published under cooperation or licence in two languages.

Dong Tiezhu Dong Tiezhu is a holder of Ph.D in Chinese culture at the University of California, Berkeley. Familiar with both Chinese and Western culture, Dong has been teaching Chinese culture at Wofford College (USA) and United International College (Zhuhai).

Sponsor: Top Gainer Industrial Limited

Special Thanks :

Wha t M a ke s Moutai I nto x i c a ti ng and M e l l o w ?

The long-lasting brewing history The complicated technique learnt from nature The long-lasting nourishment of the delicious Chishui water The spiritual blessing from mysterious creatures â&#x20AC;Ś As well as the influence of culture accumulated for thousands of years www.moutaichina.com

I S S U E

NATURE 天

10 Feast Brilliance A gorgeous and mellow conversation between the luxury crystal and the unparalleled liquor 奢華水晶與稀世佳釀華麗而香醇的對話

This issue of "MOUTAI Magazine" will use the feast brilliance ignited by the integration of two age-old brands, the story of fine spirits told through the rivers of two countries, the openness of mind experienced in the sound of cello, the principles of fine spirits felt in the art of French cuisine, and the Chinese imprint found in the city of Lyon…to think about the dialogue and communion in the past 50 years since the establishment of Sino-French diplomatic relations. 本期我們以中法兩個悠久品牌的融合點亮盛宴的光芒，讓兩個國度的河流述說美酒的故事，在大提琴的音色中感受心靈的暢通，於法式美食藝術中體會美酒的原則、在里昂城裡踏尋中國印記……借此思考中法建交 50 年中，某些對話，某些交融。 Life Offering

Photography of New Literati Painting , Sun Jun , China

生命清供新文人畫攝影 , 孫郡 , 中国

MOUTAI Magazine

PEOPLE 人

ETIQUETTE 禮

Le Royal Monceau Feel Paris' charm from the ruins of an antique merchant and the luxury of Le Royal Monceau 從文物商人的遺跡與皇宮酒店的奢華觸摸

Chu Yibing Listen to the life truth and art essence of a musician 聆聽音樂家的生活真理與藝術真諦

巴黎風情

MUSE 樂

HARMONY 和

The Civilized Connoisseur

Chinese Imprints in Lyon

The matching art and ultimate temptation of French food and wine

The historical memory hidden in the depth of a city

法蘭西美食美酒的搭配藝術與極致誘惑

隱藏在城市深處的歷史記憶

CONTENT 目錄 05 Chairman Message 刊首語

NATURE 天

MUSE 樂 50 Yu Yat Yiu :The Civilized Connoisseur 于逸堯：如斯品酒

10 Feast Brilliance 盛宴的光芒

58 Patrick's Adventure 白馬哥的冒險

22 A Tale of Two Rivers 兩條河流的故事

60 Travelling Over the City 城市上空的遨遊

PEOPLE 人

HARMONY 和

26 Chu Yibing: A Perceptive Moment Called Life 朱亦兵：那一剎那的感悟叫生命

66 Chinese Imprints in Lyon 里昂的中國印記

32 Charles de Gaulle and His Followers 戴高樂及其後來者

70 Camus Chosen to Mark 50 Years of Sino-French Diplomacy 瑧選卡慕獻禮中法 50 周年

ETIQUETTE 禮 36 Sun Jun : Dreamlike Grace 孫郡：醉夢般優雅 44 Travel in Paris, Learn About C.T. Loo, Check in at Le Royal Monceau 遊巴黎識盧芹齋住新皇宮

72 Craig Au-yeung Column: Bottoms Up to the Toasts 歐陽應霽專欄：為乾杯而乾杯 74 Drinking Intellectually Column: Miserable Confidant Maspero 文字飲專欄：悲情知己馬伯樂 76 Moutai on the World Map 茅台在全球

MOUTAI Magazine

NATURE 天

Feast B Moutai and Baccarat, two distinguished brands from different civilizations, with unique technique and excellent quality, become a model of cultural spirit for their own nation. With the passage of time, they have never ceased to amaze, turning every instant into a rare and precious moment. Just like the feast brilliance, the Oriental charm is set against the complex luxury of Baccarat. This gorgeous scene is a dialogue and a perfect fusion. 茅台、Baccarat，來自不同文明的兩個傑出品牌，以獨特的工藝，卓越的品質，成為各自民族文化精神的典範。時光流逝，她們的輝煌從未褪色，並不斷創造珍貴時刻，如同一場盛宴的光芒，Baccarat 的繁複奢華映襯著東方神韻，這華麗的景象，是一場對話，更是一場完美的融合。

MOUTAI Magazine

Brilliance

盛宴的光芒

EDITING/ 編輯：Old-hou PHOTO/ 攝：Han Xingxi

TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung SPECIAL THANKS/ 特別鳴謝：Baccarat

MOUTAI Magazine

NATURE 天

ince 1764 Baccarat has written the chapters of its remarkable history in sparkling letters. As the world's most famous crystal works, Baccarat was founded in Lorraine, by permission of King Louis XV. The name Baccarat reverberates like an echo of outstanding pieces, extraordinary places and unforgettable parties. Baccarat reflects 250 years of history. Looking back over its past is like embarking on a round-the-world journey through time, across over two centuries of political, cultural and economic life, from the dawn of the industrial age in the 19th century to the advent of globalisation in the 21st century. The order book of the most prestigious requests reads like an encyclopaedia of history. In France, Baccarat received its first royal commission in 1823 when Louis XVIII ordered a glass service to be produced specially for him. Charles X, Louis-Philippe, Napoleon III and a host of Presidents and Heads of State would soon follow suit. The Juvisy service, engraved with the monogram RF for République Française, has adorned state banquets at the Elysée Palace since 1899. Baccarat soon earned a solid international reputation: from the furniture pieces produced for Indian maharajahs, to the majestic Tsar chandelier created for Nicholas II, from the exquisite commissions for the Japanese imperial court, to the sheer purity of the water glasses engraved with the initials of the American President F.D. Roosevelt. Over the ages, Baccarat crystal works has cast its lustre all over the world, and become a symbol of superb craftsmanship and French Art de Vivre (Art of Life). Another legendary brand from the Orient also cast its lustre in the course of history, showing a striking similarity with Baccarat. Since 135 BC, highly praised as "mellow and perfect" by Emperor Wu of Han, Moutai liquor has crossed thousands of years' civilization and has been inherited from generation to generation. In 1915, Moutai won the golden prize at the Panama Pacific International Exposition and became world-renowned. In 1949 when New China was founded, as the irreplaceable No. 1 banquet liquor for the founding ceremony, Moutai was recognized as China's "national liquor". Since then, as China's national gift, Moutai has shined on the world stage, and witnessed great changes of the times and the process of civilization. The years became a scroll for her to write brilliance. U.S. President Richard Nixon and Ronald Reagan, British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher, Britain's Queen Elizabeth II, Russian President Boris Yeltsin and Vladimir Putin, Australian Prime Minister Robert Hawke....are all impressed by her temperament.

1764 年創立以來，Baccarat（巴卡拉）憑藉輝煌的業績譜寫了不平凡的歷史篇章。這一舉世聞名的水晶品牌由法國國王路易十五特許在洛林創立，Baccarat 的名號意味著做工精巧的物件、富麗堂皇的場館和難以忘懷的派對。回望 Baccarat 250 年的歷史，如同穿越時間的環球之旅，從 19 世紀工業時代啟幕直到 21 世紀全球化的到來，深入長達兩個多世紀的政治、文化和經濟生活。縱覽各色尊貴客戶的訂單，如同一部歷史的百科全書。Baccarat 在法國於 1823 年首次獲得皇室的冊封，路易十八訂購了一件特製的玻璃器皿。查理十世、路易菲力浦一世、拿破崙三世以及世界各國的眾多首腦很快趨之若鶩。刻有代表 République Française 的 RF 交織文字組合的“於維希”餐具，自 1899 年起一直在愛麗舍宮的國宴上使用。Baccarat 很快贏得了國際聲譽：為印度大君製作的傢俱、為尼古拉二世打造的氣勢磅礴的“沙皇”枝形吊燈、由日本皇室委託製作的精巧器件、為美國總統羅斯福製作的晶瑩剔透的滴漏，幾個世紀以來 Baccarat 水晶製品在世界各地熠熠生輝，已成為代表一流做工和法國 art de vivre（生活藝術）的象徵。而另一個來自東方的傳奇品牌，在歷史長河中閃耀的光輝，無不展現出驚人的相似性。自公元前 135 年被漢武帝讚譽“甘美之”，茅台酒的釀造跨越千年文明，綿延不息。1915 年巴拿馬萬國博覽會一舉榮膺金獎，享譽世界。 1949 年新中國的成立，作為不可替代的開國第一宴用酒，成為公認的中國“國酒”。從此，作為國禮閃耀在世界舞臺，見證著時代的劇變，文明的進程，歲月成為她書寫輝煌的長卷。無論是美國總統尼克森、雷根，英國首相柴契爾夫人，英國女王伊莉莎白二世，俄羅斯總統葉利欽，普京，澳大利亞總理羅伯特霍克……無不曾被她的氣質折服。

MOUTAI Magazine

Baccarat Showroom

Baccarat 水晶展廳

Address: 1 Hoi Ping Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong

地址 : 香港銅鑼灣開平道 1 號

Phone: +852 2895 6001

電話 : +852 2895 6001

www.baccarat.com

MOUTAI Magazine

NATURE 天

MOUTAI Magazine

With an ancient gesture, I enter your garden, Extolled by countless eras, I come to your table. — Sun Ganlu (Chinese contemporary writer) 我以一種古代的姿態邁入你的庭院，我被無數時代朗誦著來到你的桌邊。 —孫甘露（中國當代作家）

Moutai: 15-year-old Millesimes Kweichow Moutai Baccarat: Eye crystal vase series/Snoopy crystal furnishings/A limited edition of Cheval Pegasus midnight blue crystal horse 茅台：15 年陳年貴州茅台酒 Baccarat：Eye 水晶花瓶系列 / Snoopy 水晶擺設 / Cheval Pegasus 限量版午夜藍色水晶馬

MOUTAI Magazine

NATURE 天

MOUTAI Magazine

So much wine was matured in our mouths, So much grape, white almond, oat, and black olive, Bitter or bitterer weight, They got rid of their own existence and quietly precipitate to the arterial end. — Xu Yue (Chinese contemporary poet) 那麽多的酒曾在你我的口中成熟，那麽多的葡萄，白杏仁，燕麥，黑橄欖，苦或更苦的重量，它們曾擺脫自身的存在，向動脈盡頭靜靜沈澱。 —徐鉞（中國當代詩人）

Moutai: Feitian 53% Kweichow Moutai Baccarat: Wave large crystal vase/Mille Nuits crystal cup and wine bottle series 茅台：53 度飛天貴州茅台酒 Baccarat：Wave 大號水晶花瓶 / Mille Nuits 水晶酒杯及酒瓶系列

MOUTAI Magazine

NATURE 天

Moutai: Kweichow Moutai gift liquor Baccarat: Guepard crystal cheetah/Mille Nuits 3-head golden crystal candler/Heritage crystal cheetah 茅台：貴州茅台珍品禮盒裝 Baccarat：Guepard 水晶獵豹 / Mille Nuits3 頭水晶金色燭台 / Heritage 水晶獵豹

MOUTAI Magazine

On eves illumined by the coal light, The balcony is beneath a rose-veiled sky. — Baudelaire (French poet) 那些傍晚，有熊熊的炭火映照，陽臺上的黃昏，玫瑰色的氤氳。 —波德萊爾（法國詩人）

MOUTAI Magazine

NATURE 天

MOUTAI Magazine

You open my forgotten space and fill up silence along with the cup. — Xu Yue (Chinese contemporary poet) 你打開我所遺忘的空間，將酒杯之外的寂靜斟滿。 —徐鉞（中國當代詩人）

Moutai: Feitian 53% Kweichow Moutai Baccarat: Mille Nuits crystal cup and table settings series

茅台：53 度飛天貴州茅台酒 Baccarat：Mille Nuits 水晶酒杯及餐具系列

MOUTAI Magazine

NATURE 天

A Tale of

Two Rivers

兩條河流的故事 EDITING/ 編輯：Laura Su TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung

MOUTAI Magazine

The producing region of fine spirits in the world must be a magical land with outstanding people, because only talent and wisdom can accomplish the unparalleled spirits of a place. In the producing region of fine spirits there must be a clear and picturesque river, because only the pure and sweet source full of vitality can be condensed into the most intoxicating spirits. 世界上的美酒產區，必定是人傑地靈之地，因為只有天賦與智慧才能成就一方千古佳釀；而在美酒產區裏，必定流淌著一條清澈如畫的河流，因為只有純淨甘甜、充滿生命活力的源泉，才能萃練出一樽醉人醇香。

n France, "Cognac" is the best spirits; in China, "Moutai" is called the perfect distilled liquor.

Moutai and Cognac are well-known and rare spirits in the world. Both of them have an irreplaceable characteristic, because they each have magical producing region, soil, and water -- France Cognac and China Moutai Town, located in the southwest of each country. Both towns use their geographical names to name their spirits. Surprisingly, both towns have a fascinating "liquor river" -- Charente River and Chishui River.

Cognac: The Finest Spirits From the Charente River France has a river that flows through Cognac Town, that is, the Charente River. Honoured as "the loveliest river on my territory" by King Francis I, Charente is Cognac's "mother river". Early before modern transportation tools were used in human history, rivers have been the life channel for people to transport goods, and the Charente River is no exception. According to legend, from the beginning of the 16th century, Nordic merchants came here to buy wine and salt. At that time, Europe was torn apart, and selling much authentic and original wine to the destinations after long-distance transportation is very difficult. In order to export more wine, merchants distilled

wine before storage. After the distilled wine reached the destination, they restored the original wine by adding water to the distilled wine. Surprisingly, the distilled wine (spirits) has a particular taste and is more popular among people than ordinary wine. Thus, the legend began. The earliest Cognac was born accidentally from the shrewd consideration of merchants. Of course, this distilled wine can only be called brandy. In 1701, France was involved in the Spanish war, and the sales of brandy dropped sharply. As a result, people were forced to store their unsold wine in oak barrels. After the war, people surprisingly found that the brandy stored in oak barrels turned out to be mellower, less spicy, and stronger, with a crystal amber colour endowed by oak barrels. Since then, storing for a certain number of years in oak barrels has become an important part of making brandy. Weathered through the years, today, these vineyards are scattered around the town. With winding paths, green grass, lush vines, stretching mountains, and viewed from footpath of field, these vineyards form a pastoral landscape with bright colour and full of vitality. Chalky soil, Atlantic wind, bright sunshine, and favourable rain, together form the unique climate for the Cognac producing area. Vineyards are scattered on highlands along the Charente River valley. In this unique terrain, grapes are under a rare and warm climate, and the special local calcareous soil can adjust the moisture needed for grape growth. Therefore, the moisture absorbed by the growing grapes is stable and appropriate. Besides, because this slightly grey soil can reflect the hot sunshine in the ripening season of grapes, the sugar content of grapes is appropriate. Everything is appropriate enough for the grapes growing in this land of only 100,000

MOUTAI Magazine

PEOPLE 人 hectares to be fermented and distilled into the brandy with the best taste and quality recognized by the world. Based on grape quality grades, this district is divided into six growing areas of different levels. Among them, Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne that surround the town are the most famous. According to the Appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC, Controlled Designation of Origin), only the Cognac that is 100% made from the grapes of the Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne districts, with at least 50% of grapes coming from the Grande Champagne district, can be titled "Fine Champagne Cognac".

Moutai: The Finest Liquor From the Chishui River Moutai Town has a river as well, that is, the beautiful and winding Chishui River. It can be said that the Chishui River is the most fragrant river in China. Within the 500 kilometres area it covers, there are about 10,000 liquor distilleries including 60% of China's well-known liquor brands, big and small sizes. Originating from Zhenxiong County of Yunnan Province, with a total length of over 500

MOUTAI Magazine

kilometres, the Chishui River gathers varieties of outstanding water and flows towards the east. The river is abundant in minerals and trace elements beneficial to health. An especially notable section is at Moutai valley in Renhuai City. The water there is the most precious natural resources for making Moutai liquor. Moutai Town, with a very special geological and geo-morphological structure of purple gritstone, provides the excellent water source for making liquor. This type of soil contains high levels of gravel and sandy soil, and has good water permeability; therefore, when the ground water and surface water pass through the red soil layer, the beneficial minerals and trace elements are dissolved. After layers of penetration, the water becomes pure, clear, and sweet, and finally enters the Chishui River for making Moutai liquor. According to testing, the Chishui River has exceptional water quality: colourless and transparent, odourless, slightly sweet and refreshing, with moderate PH level (7.27.8) and very little degradation substance. Containing lots of beneficial components, the water is the only and exceptional source for Moutai production. Similar to the cargo transportation story of

the Charente River, Sichuan salt was transported to Guizhou through the Chishui River. During late Ming Dynasty and early Qing Dynasty 400 years ago, governments built Chishui River waterways to transport Sichuan salt to Guizhou. As a result, "Sichuan salt went to Guizhou and Shaanxi merchants gathered in Moutai." So, the Moutai Town along the river became prosperous, and the liquor making industry here was very booming, driving the continuous development and improvement of local liquor-making technique. Surprisingly, the water colour of the Chishui River will vary with seasons. During the rainy season from the Chinese Dragon Boat Festival to the Double Ninth Festival, the river water turns red because much purple soil flows into the river. Whereas from the Double Ninth Festival to the Dragon Boat Festival the next year, the river water becomes clear because of less rainfall. This has provided a schedule for brewing activities over thousands of years. The wise people make liquor based on the seasonal variation of the Chishui River and transfer the natural codes to every drop of Moutai liquor. Therefore, the Moutai making technique is a result of conforming to the natural and geographical environment of Moutai Town.

幹邑：夏朗特河畔的美酒法國的“一條河”，就是流經幹邑小鎮的夏

光，和順的雨水，成就了幹邑產區獨特的氣候環

美譽，河水富含多種有益人體健康的礦物質和微

境。

量元素，尤其是仁懷境內茅台河谷一段，更是釀沿著夏朗特河河谷高地展開的葡萄園，在這

朗特河。夏朗特河被弗朗索瓦一世稱為“我的領

造茅台美酒最珍貴的自然資源。

種獨特的地形中又讓葡萄獲得了一種難得的溫熱

茅台鎮十分特殊的紫色沙葉巖地質地貌結

早在各種現代化的交通運輸工具在人類歷史

氣候環境，而當地特殊的石灰質土壤更可以調節

構，形成了有利於釀酒的優良水質。這種土壤中

上逐一登場之前，河流一直是人們運輸物資的生

葡萄生長所需的水分，讓葡萄生長期間吸收的水

礫石和沙質土體含量高，滲水性好，地下水、地

命通道，夏朗特河也不例外。

分穩定而恰當，並且這種略帶灰白色的土壤可以

表水通過紅壤層時，對人體有益的礦物質、多種

在葡萄成熟季節反射灼熱的陽光，讓葡萄含有恰

微量元素被溶解，經過層層滲透，過濾出純淨、

到好處的糖分。

清亮甘冽、香甜可口的清泉水，最終匯入了茅台

土上最可愛的河”，是幹邑的“母親河”。

據傳，從 16 世紀開始，就有北歐的商人到此買酒和鹽。由於當時的歐洲四分五裂，大量原汁原味的葡萄酒要經過長途運輸販賣到目的地殊

一切都是剛剛好，好到在這片僅種植了 10

為不易，為了出口更多的酒，商人們把葡萄酒蒸

萬公頃葡萄的土地上出產的葡萄經過發酵、蒸餾

據檢測，赤水河水質優良，無色透明，無臭

餾之後儲存起來，待貨物到了目的地後，再兌水

出來的白蘭地被世界公認為口感和品質是最好

無味，微甜爽口，降解物少，硬度適中，酸堿適

把酒“復原”過來。未曾想到的是，這種烈酒口

的。

度（pH 值為 7.2-7.8），含有多種對人體有益的成

感特別，比一般葡萄酒更受人們歡迎。於是，傳奇開始。最早的幹邑就這樣在商人精明地算計中誕生了，當然，那些蒸餾過的葡萄酒還只能叫白蘭地。

在這裏，按照葡萄品質劃分出 6 個不同等級

酒釀造所依託的赤水河。

分，是釀造茅台酒唯一和優質的源泉。

的種植區，其中以環繞小鎮的大香檳區和小香檳區最為有名。

與夏朗特河最早的物資運輸經歷同樣，川鹽黔運的赤水河同樣如此。

在法國《原產地命名法》中有著規定：唯有

在距今 400 年前的明清之際，為了將川鹽

1701 年，法國捲入了西班牙戰爭，白蘭地

來自法國幹邑地區的中心地帶、100% 採用幹邑

運黔，官府開通了赤水河道。“蜀鹽走貴州，秦

銷路大減，人們被迫把酒積存在橡木桶內。戰爭

六大產區中最好的兩個產區——大、小香檳區的

商聚茅台”，沿河的茅台鎮成為當時的繁華集鎮，

結束以後，解甲歸田的人們驚奇地發現，儲存在

葡萄並且大香檳區必須佔有 50% 以上的比例，由

釀酒業空前繁榮，並由此帶動了當地釀酒工藝的

橡木桶內的白蘭地竟然變得更香醇，少了一些辣

此製作而成的幹邑才能被冠以“特優香檳幹邑”

不斷發展、改進。

味多了幾分厚重，而且還開始帶有橡木桶賦予的

的封號。

自此之後，用橡木桶貯藏一定年限也成為了釀制白蘭地的重要環節。走過那些紛飛日子的今天，走進那些散落

令人驚歎的是，赤水河的顏色會因季節而改變。

晶瑩剔透的琥珀色。

茅台：赤水河邊的佳釀而茅台鎮的“一條河”，就是秀美迤邐的赤水河。

端午節至重陽節，雨季來臨，大量紫紅色土入水，河水呈赤紅色；而重陽節至翌年端午節之間，雨量驟減，河水又恢復清澈透明。

在小鎮周圍的葡萄園區，蜿蜒的小路、綠色的草

可以說，赤水河是中國版圖上最為香醇的一

這為茅台人千百年來的釀酒活動提供了時間

地、茂盛的葡萄藤、綿延的山峰，站在田埂上放

條河流，以此為核心、方圓 500 公裏內彙集了中

表，智慧的人們根據赤水河水自然變化規律來釀

眼望去，儼然是一幅色彩明亮且充滿生命力的田

國 60% 的名酒廠和大小酒廠近萬家。

酒，將自然的密碼通過節令的遵從而傳遞到每一

園風景畫。白堊質的土壤，大西洋的暖風，明媚的陽

赤水河，源於中國雲南省鎮雄縣，全長 500 多公裏，有“集靈泉於一身，匯秀水而東下”之

滴茅台酒中，使得茅台酒的釀造工藝也因此成為了順應茅台鎮自然地理環境的產物。

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PEOPLE ไบบ

A Perceptive Moment Life Called

Chu Yibing 朱亦兵：

那一剎那的感悟叫生命 INTERVIEW/ 采訪：Dora, Oldhou&Kangsheng TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung IMAGE/ 圖：Chu Yibing Cello Ensemble 朱亦兵大提琴樂團

"The greatness of art is to make you sense the feeling of that moment in life. Life is not the pain feeling when you pinch yourself. Instead, it is the perception of that moment when your heart is still beating." “藝術的偉大就是讓你感悟到生命一剎那的感覺，不是你自己掐自己痛，而是心還在蹦，那一剎那的感悟就叫生命。”

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PEOPLE äşş

Debussy must have heard the performance of the threestringed Chinese lute, because the exactly same musical interval and tone were used in his works. It's Amazing.

n my concert, everyone is enthusiastic and impulsive. You think it enough once you are quiet; however, quiet is far from enough and you need to calm down, which I can feel. Music is the greatest thing. Only if everyone calms down, can we have that feeling and will a miracle happen. This miracle is music. At such a moment, there are no boundaries between oriental music and western music, and no boundaries between China Moutai and French wine. When your mind is open, you will drink whatever served."

France NightÂ

Chu Yibing lived in France in his youth. At the age of 13, a tape recording Chu Yibing's study in playing piano with his mother at home was spread abroad, happened to be heard by the French cello master Pierre Fournier. This 70-year-old man expressed his sensation and surprise through diplomatic letters, hoped this child to study in Europe, and was willing to afford all costs. In 1984, Chu Yibing studied cello and chamber music with the contemporary master Maurice Gendron in "Conservatoire National Superieur de Musique". In 1987, with excellent academic performance, Chu Yibing graduated from the cello major, and became the third Chinese musician (after Ma Sicong and Xian Xinghai) to get such a degree. Two years later, at the age of 23, he became the principal cellist of Basler Symphony Orchestra, Switzerland, the youngest principal cellist in Europe's symphony orchestras at that time. On May 23, 2014, after returning from abroad, Chu Yibing and his cello orchestra performed the "France Night" concert in the National Centre for the Performing Arts. All compositions of the concert came from French composers. "As an open world, France is highly capable of absorption and tolerance. Any culture can bloom and flourish on this land, including numerous oriental phrases, melodies, and rhythms already precipitated in the French music." "Do you believe it? Debussy must have heard the performance of the three-stringed Chinese lute, because the exactly same musical interval and tone were used in his works. It's Amazing." Passion and romance of France had been indelibly imprinted on Chu Yibing. He recalled his youth in France and said earnestly: "Among the Chinese who learn music, no one 28

MOUTAI Magazine

speaks French better than me." Perhaps it was a coincidence, and you needn't deliberately find more annotations for this "France Night". The group photo on the post was taken by a French photographer. As the title photo for the Amsterdam Cello Music Festival, this photo was taken in the case of no clearance, lighting, or design. Each orchestra member held a cello in a restaurant kitchen. Everyone had a funny expression, but no one cared about the camera when the photo was taken. The venue for this concert was the works of French designer Paul Andreu. Just as the glass pyramid placed on top of the Louvre by Ieoh Ming Pei, this "giant egg" opposite the Forbidden City was inevitably controversial. This is the cost of cultural collision, but also the only way for cultural communion. With different cultural imprints, Chu Yibing thinks and behaves uniquely in his progress. To understand him is helpful for us to understand a more colourful world and a more diversified life.

A Pure ImpulseÂ

Before returning from abroad, Chu Yibing served as the principal cellist of the leading orchestras in Europe. An oriental face taking such a prominent position in Western art circles was tantamount to a Westerner serving as the dean of the Kun opera department in China. "Just imagine how the Chinese will think of that." When talking about success and glory, Chu Yibing answered with understatement: "If so, the only explanation is that he is much better than his counterpart." Chu Yibing's frankness shows us a real soul. Apparently he does not want to waste his life in the Chinese-styled shyness. "I can't live for another 30 years like this and wait for retirement!" After 16 years of easy living in the Swiss mainstream society, Chu Yibing suddenly said to himself one day. Chu Yibing interpreted this as his middle-aged thinking period. He began to think about his life over the past decades. This thought, however, led him to the crossroad of two distinct lives. "People may become desperate for impulse. Such desperate impulsive force and motivation helped me to sense their energy for the first time in my life." In early December 2003, Chu Yibing decided to return to his motherland. No one could understand his behaviour, even including

himself, until February 21, 2004 when he embarked on his trip. Within two and a half months, the migration alone had cost him 1.6 million RMB. He bought six one-way tickets for four individuals and two cellos, disposed of half of his furniture, and packed his other living memories into a 40-feet-long container equipped with 239 big boxes. He completely turned away the foundation created in his 21 years' overseas living, without leaving any trace of care, and started to take a salary that was only 1/20 of his original salary in Europe. He recalled his impulse of that time. Actually, Chu Yibing did not know what could he do after his return, but he knew that he should burn all bridges behind him because nobody could climb down the paradise along ladders. This is a matter impossible to be understood. Therefore, he did not tell his mother and felt that the best way to deal with this impulse was to do it fast, and do it resolutely. In fact, human delusion occurs because people always want to impose their own thinking and will to the world. For example, when a bird twitters on a tree, we think that it was singing. Perhaps, it just twitters for its own sake. Chu Yibing is like a bird that is not confined by the world, and his behaviour comes from instinct. You cannot use the thinking of an ordinary people to expect his next answer because "normal" is just a suspectable phenomenon. "That's how the world is. As long as you really need, such a need is also the need of the world." Facing all doubts, Chu Yibing said, "In fact, nothing is incredible. You can see that in the nature, in all ages, no leaves are exactly the same. Do you feel incredible? Why do people have to be the same? Why? Are our lives poorer than a green leaf?"

Emotional Alcohol

"A creature that can be desperate for brilliance is unlikely to be vulgar." After returning from abroad, Chu Yibing assembled his own cello orchestra in 2004. Over the past, there was no company, broker, assistant, publicity, or deliberate hype. For Chu Yibing, everything seemed natural. "We have insisted on for 10 years and feel very honoured to perform in the National Centre. Even if there is only one audience, I will move mountains from my heart and pull the sky down to my performance...."

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PEOPLE 人

Title photo taken by a French photographer for the 2010 Amsterdam Cello Music Festival 法國攝影師拍攝的 2010 年荷蘭大提琴音樂節標題照

In ten years and over 300 concerts, mostly public-welfare performances, there have been stories, confusion, but more gratitude. Chu Yibing played with his students on the same stage and wanted to go to all places that he hasn't been to. "You may think that music exists only in halls." In fact, classical music should be performed not only in halls but also in life and should be involved in the crowd. Just like artwork, it should not be hidden on high shelves but walk into life. “在我的音樂會上，大家是狂熱的，衝動的。

As a highly qualified musician, Chu Yibing hates to use such words as "universal" to describe his current behaviour and state. "Nature is formed by each particle, molecule, grass, and tree. Everything cannot be great without each small detail. Just like an ocean, each drop of water is an important part. Even if my life is a drop of water, I am myself." Chu Yibing has no intention to change anything. Facing the world's hustle and bustle, 響樂團中最年輕的首席大提琴。

只有一種說法，就是他比同等的那個要強很多。”

你以為你安靜就行了，安靜根本沒用，你心靜了

2014 年 5 月 23 日，朱亦兵和他回國後的大

朱亦兵直言不諱的坦誠讓我們看到了一個真實的

我才知道。音樂是最偉大的東西，只有大家心靜

提琴樂團在國家大劇院完成了一場名為“法蘭西

靈魂，顯然他不希望將生命浪費在中國式的“靦

下來的時候才有感覺，當所有人心靜下來的時

之夜”的音樂會。整個音樂會曲目都是來自法國

腆”之中。

候，奇跡就發生了，這個奇跡就是音樂。那個時

作曲家的作品。“法國是一個開放的大世界，有

“我總不能就這麼再活 30 年等退休吧！”經

候無論是東方音樂、西方音樂，完全沒有界限，

強大的吸收力和包容力，任何文化都可以在這片

歷了 16 年瑞士主流社會的安逸生活，朱亦兵突

無論是中國茅台、法國紅酒，完全沒有界限，當

土地上開花結果，包括法國音樂裏沉澱了無數來

然有一天這樣反問自己。朱亦兵把這解釋為自己

心靈暢通的時候，給什麼喝什麼。”

自東方的樂句、曲調和韻律。” “你相信嗎？德彪

的中年思維期，開始對生活了幾十年的事想一

西一定在巴黎聽到過中國三弦藝人的演奏，因為

想，然而這一想，就成為了前後兩種截然不同人

在他的音樂小品中音程和音色是一模一樣的，太

生的分岔口。

法蘭西之夜朱亦兵的青春時代在法國度過。

神奇了。”法蘭西的熱情與浪漫在朱亦兵身上有不

“人為了衝動是可以不顧一切的，就這種不

13 歲那年，朱亦兵和媽媽在家裏一段合作

可磨滅的印記，他回憶那裏的青春時光並認真的

顧一切的衝力和動力，這種能量是我人生中第一

練琴的錄音，輾轉傳到國外，竟被法國大提琴大

說：“在學音樂的中國人裏邊，比我法文講得更

次感悟到。”

師皮埃爾福尼埃聽到。這位已經 70 多歲的老人

好的，沒有！”

通過外交途徑回信表達了他的感動和驚奇，並希望這個孩子到歐洲學習，由他負責一切費用。 1984 年朱亦兵在法國巴黎國立高等音樂學院隨當代名師莫里斯讓德隆攻讀大提琴與室內

he feels fortunate that he is not changed. He also refuses to use such words as "elegant" to describe the art he is engaged. Music is a direct spiritual communication beyond language. Chu Yibing uses one performance after another to sense and enjoy each moment of empathy with strangers. "In the first half of my life, I do what I can; in the second half of my life, I do what I want." Chu Yibing said, others could comment on what was right or wrong, but only yourself knew what was true or false. "Life is a moment and no one knows tomorrow. The greatness of art is to make you sense the feeling of that moment in life. Life is not the pain feeling when you pinch yourself. Instead, it is the perception of that moment when your heart is still beating." Different cultures bring different life experiences. Beauty or ugliness, fragrance or smell, is a cultural concept. From the principal cellist of Europe's top symphony orchestra to China's music teacher, Chu Yibing walked from a paradise into another realm. He thought that each nation had its own unique flavour. Why is French wine called water of life, and Moutai reputed as the civilization brewed for thousands of years? Both of them are the result of cultural accumulation. Music is like the emotional alcohol that can be enjoyed endlessly. For him, music is not only the inner need, but also the foundation to survive.

朱亦兵 2003 年 12 月初決定回國。沒有人能理解他這樣的行為，甚至包括他自己。直到

一次純粹的衝動歸國之前，朱亦兵在歐洲一流樂團擔任首席大提琴。

2004 年 2 月 21 日踏上行程，當時兩個半月，光搬家費用了 160 萬人民幣。他買了 6 張單程機票給 4 個人和兩個大提琴，把一半的傢俱處理掉，

樂專業。1987 年，朱亦兵以大提琴一等獎成績

一個東方面孔在西方藝術界佔據這樣一個

其他的生活記憶放進一個 40 英尺長、裝有 239

畢業，成為繼馬思聰、冼星海之後第 3 位獲此學

重要的位置，無異於一個西方人在中國擔任昆曲

個大箱子的集裝箱。21 年海外生活所建立的根

位的中國音樂家。兩年之後，23 歲的他進入瑞士

系主任， “你說中國人怎麼看？”對於成功和榮

基徹底放下，不留一絲牽掛，從此只拿在歐洲時

巴塞爾交響樂團擔任首席大提琴，是當時歐洲交

耀，朱亦兵回答得輕描淡寫：“如果是這樣，那

1/20 的薪水。

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Conducted the hundred-people cello concert in the National Centre in 2013

回憶當時的衝動，朱亦兵不知道回來能幹什

琴樂團。

2013 年在國家大劇院指揮百人大提琴

用一場一場的演出，去感悟、享受與陌生人剎那心靈相通的感覺。

麼，但他明白不能留後路，他知道沒人能從天堂

十年來，沒有公司，沒有經紀人，沒有助

裏順著梯子自己爬下來。對於這件不可能被理解

手，沒有宣傳，沒有刻意的炒作。然而在朱亦兵

“前半輩子的人生是我能，後半輩子的人生

的事情，他沒有告訴母親，他覺得處理這種衝動

看來這一切都很自然， “我們堅持了十年了，一直

是我想。”朱亦兵說，對錯是別人決定的，真假是

最好的方式就是做快，做絕。

到能登上大劇院的舞臺就已經很榮幸，即使只為

自己知道的。“生命就是一剎那，有誰知道明天。

臺下一個人演奏，我也會把心裏的山搬來，把天

藝術的偉大就是讓你感悟生命的那一剎那感覺到

拉下來……”

的東西，不是你自己掐自己痛，而是心還在蹦，

對他而言，人的虛妄就是總想把自己的思維和意志強加給世界。就像樹上叫喚的小鳥，我們

那一剎那的感悟就叫生命。”

以為那是在歌唱，或許，它僅僅是自己需要。朱

十年間，300 多場音樂會，大部分是公益演

亦兵就像未被世界禁錮的小鳥，他的行為都來自

出，有過故事，有過彷徨，但更多的是感恩。朱

不同的文化帶來不同的生命體驗，美與醜香

本能，你無法用正常人的思維去期待他下一秒的

亦兵帶著學生一路同臺演奏，凡是沒去的地方他

與臭都是一種文化概念。從歐洲頂級交響樂團首

答案，因為“正常”，恰是值得懷疑的現象。“這

都想去， “你以為只有廳裏面才有音樂啊。”古典

席大提琴到國內音樂教師，朱亦兵從一個天堂，

世界是這麼回事，只要你自己真的需要，就是這

音樂不應只在殿堂表演，應該走入生活，走入人

走入了另一個境界。他覺得，每個民族都有自己

世界的需要。”面對眾人的疑惑，朱亦兵說“其實

群，就像藝術品不應藏諸高閣，應該進入生活。

特有的味道，為什麼法國的紅酒叫生命之水，茅

有什麼不可思議呢？你看大自然，從古至今，從

作為一個資歷豐富的音樂家，朱亦兵討厭用

台被譽為釀造了數千年的文明，這都是文化的積

來還沒有一片葉子和另外一片相同過，你覺得不

“普及”這樣的字眼去描述他現在的行為和狀態。

可思議嗎，為什麼人就得一樣啊，為什麼，我們

“大自然由一微一號一分一草一木組成的，所有

音樂，如同可以無限享用的情感酒精，對朱

的宏大都缺乏不了每一個微乎其微的細節，就像

亦兵來說，不僅是內心需求，也是生存的根本。

的命還不如一片綠葉子嗎？”

澱。

蒼茫大海，少不了一滴水。我的命哪怕就是一滴

情感的酒精 “為了光芒可以不顧一切的生靈，不可能是低級的。” 回國後，朱亦兵於 2004 年創建自己的大提

水，但我就是。”朱亦兵無意於去改變什麼，面對世界的喧囂，他慶倖自己並沒有被改變。他也拒絕“高雅”這樣的辭彙來形容他從事的藝術。音樂是一種超越語言直達心靈的溝通方式，朱亦兵 MOUTAI Magazine

PEOPLE 人

Charles de Gaulle and His Followers 戴高樂及其後來者 EDITING/ 編輯：Towerman Guo IMAGE/ 圖：Imagine China TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung

"China is not a nation or a nation-state, but fundamentally is a civilization, a very unique and very deep civilization." Half a century ago, Charles de Gaulle's vision led to the formal establishment of Sino-French diplomatic relations and his gesture of "civilization dialogue" had long and profound impact on the subsequent Sino-French relations. His followers have followed his footsteps to further promote Sino-French exchanges and cooperation in various fields, and have made great achievements.

“中國不是一個民族或一個國家，中國從根本而言是一個文明，一個獨特而深厚的文明。” 半個世紀前，戴高樂的高瞻遠矚促成中法正式建交，以 “文明對話”的姿態久遠而深刻地影響了此後的中法關系，後來者追隨他的足跡為中法各領域交流與合作開荒拓土，而今已是碩果累累。

MOUTAI Magazine

PEOPLE 人 Civilization Dialogue Back in the spring of 1964, the entire world was still in a serious unrest. The dull atmosphere of the bipolar sharp confrontation between the U.S.A. and the U.S.S.R. was almost suffocating for the world; after the narrow escape from assassination in the liberation of Paris 20 years ago, Charles de Gaulle still went his own way. After a series of careful consideration and intensive negotiations, with a posture of independent democracy, this French president made a bold decision: to establish diplomatic relations with China. This decision was just like casting a rock into a dull lake, and the stirred ripples gave off stunning and lofty brilliance. On this memorable press conference, at the age of over 70, in front of numerous audiences, de Gaulle expressively and emotionally clarified the reasons for admitting the People's Republic of China. Good at writing and speech, for de Gaulle, it was not difficult to convince his fellow citizens. This French statesman began his speech by stating China's demographic and geographical facts. "The great Chinese people, the largest population on earth, inhabit a vast country that spans from Asia Minor and Europe's marchlands to the immense Pacific coast, and from the freezing Siberia to the tropical regions of India and Tonkin (Viet Nam)." Then he put forward the long-awaited theory of civilization dialogue. In the eyes of this statesman whose childhood was obsessed about literature and history, China is not a nation or a nation-state, but fundamentally is a civilization, a very unique and very deep civilization; the ancient France is to establish contact again with a civilization with equally long history. From any perspective, over a long period in history, these two great nations, nourished by their respective mother rivers, the Yellow River, the Yangtze River, the Loire, and the Rhône, set the pace of civilization development in their respective regions. Two distinctive cultures are deeply attracted to each other. Historically, Chinese culture was greatly

A photo of China's first ambassador to France Huang Zhen and President de Gaulle after Huang presented credentials to de Gaulle in June 1964 1964 年 6 月，中國首任駐法國大使黃鎮向戴高樂總統遞交國書後合影

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admired in France. The influence of Chinese culture can be found in many writings of French Enlightenment thinkers. In this sense, de Gaulle's words once again identified the mysterious and vital linkages between two civilizations.

Profound Impact There was no doubt that this identification influenced countless followers in the next half-century. They worked very hard to further promote Sino-French exchanges and cooperation. The Spring Festival of 2004 would be exceptionally warm for many French Chinese. In that Spring Festival, China and France held Cultural Year in cooperation. The Eiffel Tower by the Seine River changed its appearance for the first time in centuries and was covered with "Chinese Red", which delighted the then French President Jacques Chirac very much. Obsessed about Chinese culture, this Frenchman likes the poet Li Bai and the painter Shi Tao. He said that Shi Tao was similar to de Gaulle, that is, not to follow the beaten track but to develop a new and own style. Fanatical about Chinese archaeology, Chirac also has an indissoluble bound with the former Director of Shanghai Museum Ma Chengyuan and former Director of Shaanxi Archaeology Institute Han Wei. It should be said that in Chirac's tenure, the Sino-French relations reached a golden age in the history, and reached unprecedented prosperity in bilateral exchanges of culture, opening many new pages for the two countries. All these were inseparable from Chirac's passion for Chinese culture. Through the close link between this French president and the Chinese civilization, you can see the deep imprint left by de Gaulle. Besides Chirac, in the past 50 years, de Gaulle's marks were imprinted, deep or shallowly, on almost every subsequent president of France. De Gaulle's successor Pompidou visited China and met with Mao Zedong and Zhou Enlai when three of them were all seriously ill, completing de Gaulle's long-awaited and unrealized meeting. In Giscard d'Estaing's tenure, he led the first economic and trade delegation to visit China. Well versed in China's philosophy essence, he praised Confucius as "a great philosopher", and he studied Chinese till the age of 87. 50 years ago, with great insight, Charles de Gaulle pointed out that both Chinese and French nations had deep admiration and respect for each other. Who can guarantee that this clear tacit understanding between the two countries will not one day develop into deeper and deeper cultural cooperation? History gave de Gaulle a positive response. In the spring 50 years later, in the bright and spacious hall (800 square metres) of the National Museum of China, led by former Minister of France's Cooperation Ministry, Charles de Gaulle Foundation is holding a retrospective exhibition for the past 50 years after the establishment of Sino-French diplomatic relations. Founded in 1971, this independent organization has been dedicated to promoting the deeds and spirit of Charles de Gaulle. In the 33rd year after its establishment, the Foundation opened its Chinese website for Chinese people, and had held various activities such as exhibition of de Gaulle's life and program of Sino-French future talent exchange. Carrying on de Gaulle's banner of civilization dialogue and continuing the Sino-French exchanges are their long-cherished wish. In the exhibition hall, a childish boy wears headphones and listens to the sound that seems to come from a distant world. Behind him is a huge photo in which General de Gaulle opens arms and clenches fist. Perhaps in the near future, he will also become a Sino-French exchange messenger and trace back to his French dream of his childhood.

Founded in 1971 and headquartered on the left bank of the Seine River, Charles de Gaulle Foundation aims to promote the deeds and spirit of Charles de Gaulle. In 2004, the Foundation opened its Chinese website to further promote the Sino-French exchanges and cooperation, and had held various activities such as exhibition of de Gaulle's life, retrospective exhibition for the past 50 years after the establishment of Sino-French diplomatic relations, and program of Sino-French future talent exchange.

On October 11, 2004, President Chirac delivered a speech at Tongji University and accepted the Chinese painting presented by Tongji students.

2004 年 10 月 11 日，希拉克總統於同濟大學發表演講，該校學生向其贈送中國畫。

戴高樂基金會成立於 1971 年，旨在弘揚戴高樂精神和事蹟，總部位於塞納河左岸，2004 年開通中文網站，致力於中法交流與合作，主辦過戴高樂生平展、中法建交 50 周年回顧展、“未來人才”交流項目等一系列活動。

文明的對話時光倒流回 1964 年。那年春天整個世界仍處於風雨飄搖之中，美蘇

時任法國總統希拉克為這一幕欣喜不已。這位癡迷中國文化的法國人喜歡詩人李白與畫家石濤，稱石濤像戴高樂一樣“不因循守舊、獨辟蹊徑”。

兩極尖銳對峙的沈悶氣氛幾乎讓世界窒息；20 年前解放巴黎時險遭狙殺

對中國考古近乎狂熱的他，還與上海原博物館館長馬承源以及原陜西考

的戴高樂依然我行我素，在一系列深思熟慮與密集談判後，以獨立自主

古研究所所長韓偉等中國專家結下不解之緣。

外交姿態面世的法蘭西總統做了一個大膽的決定：與中國建交。這一決定仿如投向沈悶湖面的一顆巨石，激起的漣漪泛著驚艷而冷傲的光芒。在一場值得紀念的新聞發布會上，已逾古稀之年的戴高樂對底下黑壓壓的人群聲情並茂地闡明承認中華人民共和國的理由，這對於擅長寫作和演講的他來說，並不是一件難事。

應該說，希拉克任期的中法關系達到了歷史上的一個黃金時期，兩國在文化領域的交流空前繁榮，開創諸多先河。這與希拉克酷愛中國文化密不可分，你能從這位法國總統與華夏文明的深切聯系上，看到戴高樂留下的深深印記。留下印記的不止希拉克一位。50 年來法蘭西的每一位總統都或深或

這位法國政治家以中國的人口與地理為切入點開始了他的演講。“這

淺地烙上了戴高樂的痕跡。繼任者蓬皮杜以絕癥之身訪華，與同樣身罹

是一個人口世界第一的泱泱大國，其領土從小亞細亞和歐洲的邊緣伸展

重病的毛澤東與周恩來見面，完成戴高樂生前期待已久的會晤；吉斯卡

到廣闊的太平洋海岸，從北部西伯利亞的冰天雪地延續至印度和北部灣

爾·德斯坦任內率首個經貿代表團訪華，深諳中國哲學精華的他盛贊孔

的熱帶地區。”之後他又拋出了醞釀已久的文明對話論。在這位孩提時代

子為“了不起的哲學家”，他學習中文的努力也持續到 87 歲高齡。

就癡迷文學與歷史的政治家看來，中國不是一個民族或一個國家，中國

50 年前，戴高樂極具洞見地指出，中法兩大民族都對對方懷有深厚

從根本而言是一個文明，一個獨特而深厚的文明，古老的法蘭西是與一

的仰慕和尊敬，誰能保證兩國間存在的這種明顯的默契有一天不會發展

個同樣歷史悠久的文明重新建立聯系。

成一種愈來愈深的文化合作？歷史給了戴高樂一個肯定的答復。

從任何角度上看，以黃河、長江和盧瓦爾 - 羅訥水系為母親河的兩個

50 年後的春天，中國國家博物館 800 平方米的寬闊展廳燈火通明，

民族，都曾經長期引領各自所在地區的文明發展進程，兩種特色鮮明的

法國前合作部部長領銜的戴高樂基金會正在舉辦中法建交 50 周年回顧展。

文化被彼此深深吸引。歷史上，中華文化曾經成為法國社會的時尚，法

這一創辦於 1971 年的獨立機構一直致力於弘揚戴高樂事跡與精神，在成

國啟蒙思想家汗牛充棟的著作中也可找到華夏文明的元素。

立後的第 33 個年頭開通了面向華人的中文網站，先後舉行過戴高樂生平

從這個意義上說，戴高樂的話語是對兩個文明某種神秘而生命力強大的聯系的再次指認。

展、中法未來人才交流計劃等活動。接過戴高樂文明對話的旗幟，將中法交流延續下去，是他們每一個人的夙願。

深遠的影響毫無疑問，這種指認在此後半個世紀的歲月裏影響了無數後來者。他們在中法交流的園地裏開荒拓土，辛勤耕耘。 2004 年的春節對於許多旅法華人來說格外溫暖。那年春節，中法互

展廳內，一個稚氣未脫的男童頭戴耳機，傾聽著似乎來自遙遠世界的聲音，他的背後是戴高樂將軍張開雙臂緊握拳頭的巨幅照片。或許在不久的未來，他也將成為中法交流的使者，向自己孩童時期的法國夢，做一回追溯。

辦文化年，塞納河畔的埃菲爾鐵塔在百年來首度改變容顏披上“中國紅”， MOUTAI Magazine

ETIQUETTE çŚŽ

Sun Jun is a Chinese contemporary photographic artist. He learned Chinese traditional painting when he was a child. He creates works from the perspective and thought of new literati, and reintegrates the peace and freehand brushwork of Chinese traditional painting into modern lives. His works inherits the spirits of ancient literati painting and has literati temperament. So his works is honoured as "photography of new literati painting".

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优雅

醉梦般

Dreamlike Grace

EDITING/ 編輯：Konzen Hou TRANSLATION/ 譯：Meng Yuan IMAGE/ 圖：Sun Jun Studio

Like a glamorous dream, classical but modern, far away but at hand. 像一個迷人的夢，既古典又現代，既遙遠又觸手可及。

"I am a man who loves to dream. Photography can better present that alternating feeling of real and unreal", Sun Jun said. Photography could be seen as a natural continuation of his design and painting lives. "I drew the Chinese traditional painting when I was a child, and was very interested in Chinese traditional culture as well. When I worked as a photographer, I was always thinking how to combine photography with Chinese traditional culture." Some ten years ago, when fashion photographers were addicted to imitate foreign art works, Sun Jun chose an exclusive career path for himself to move ahead alone. From the very beginning, he had a clear direction for himself and could not conceal his fascination with Chinese traditional culture, from which the inspiration and composition of works including the use of colour were derived. They are the understanding and sentiment of artists on Chinese aesthetics. Every climb up a mountain, every wading over a river, every seasonal waiting, every expectation for florescence, every blight and surplus of the water, every irregular changing of illumination, and every encounter when the sky clears up, are all perfect and amazing combinations of favourable climatic, geographical, and human conditions. The very moment of releasing the camera shutter is the instant when their eyes meet. The picture is frozen but the plot in the dream continues. It is real but also dreamlike.

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ETIQUETTE уд«

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Clouds and Mist

Photography of New Literati Painting , China

雲煙飄渺新文人畫攝影 , 中國

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ETIQUETTE уд«

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Cold Tree

Photography of New Literati Painting , China

寒樹新文人畫攝影 , 中國

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ETIQUETTE уд«

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LEFT: RIGHT:

End of Spring Smell Whiffs

Photography of New Literati Painting , China Photography of New Literati Painting , China

落花時節新文人畫攝影 , 中國聽香新文人畫攝影 , 中國

France has its own French romance, and the East has its exclusive elegance. The original intention of Sun Jun is to realize a melange of Chinese humanistic spirit, Chinese value attitude, and Chinese classical aesthetics, and then tell you a story. In this uncompleted dream, "do what I want to do is a process I am searching for," Sun Jun said.

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ETIQUETTE уд«

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Travel in Paris, Learn About C.T. Loo, Check in at Le Royal Monceau 遊巴黎識盧芹齋住新皇宮 IMAGE, TEXT/ 圖文：Cheung Kam-moon

In Paris, an elegant city, you can always feel the openness and embrace of culture.

Pagoda Paris

巴黎彤閣

巴黎，在這座優雅的城市你總能感到文化的開放與包容。

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ETIQUETTE 禮

C.T. Loo

盧芹齋

Pagoda Paris Chinese tourists on their first visit to Paris must go to take photo before Arc de Triomphe and stroll on Champs-Élysées. Unfortunately they mostly do not know that a Chinese-styled pagoda with interesting story standing nearby is also worth of visiting. It is Pagoda Paris, built by the original owner Ching Tsai Loo (C.T. Loo 1880-1957) in 1926-1928, not only as the hub of his antiques business, but also as a symbol showing his nostalgic feeling of his mother country. In 1925, Loo bought a French Louis Philippe style 6-storey building at 48, Rue de Courcelles and hired the prominent architect Fernand Bloch (1864-1945) to transform it into the Chinese Pagoda under his careful supervision and direction from 1926 to 1928. As the only Chinese-styled architecture in the Paris urban

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area, Pagoda Paris is called "Chinese Pagoda" by the French travel books. It is situated in the famous 8th district of Paris, adjacent to the Parc Monceau, and opened its door in 1928 as Galerie C.T. Loo & Cie, showcasing an exquisite collection of Chinese and Asian art and antiques. Even today, it is still regarded as one of the most fascinating buildings in Paris due to its Chinese traditional look. In the antique circles of Europe and US, C.T. Loo was known to everybody. It can be said that C.T. Loo was the broker and witness for transporting ancient cultural relics abroad in modern Chinese history. He smuggled and sold countless pre-Ming (dynasty) statues, stone carvings, bronzes, and jades. A large number of them were from the stolen emperor tombs, including one of the greatest masterpieces in China's art history, that is, the Saluzi and Quanmaogua steeds from the Six Steeds of Zhao

Mausoleum. In his later years, Loo summarized that his life was full of contradictions. He admitted that he caused many national treasures to be lost to other countries, but he also felt glad that these national treasures were protected from wars. Loo, a farm boy, left his broken family from remote village in northern Zhejiang for good, entering a noble house to work in kitchen, where he made friend with the handicapped young master Zhang, who later became the business counsellor at the Chinese Embassy to France in 1902. Zhang brought Loo with him abroad when he was on duty in Paris. In Paris, Loo worked cleverly, learning everything fast in different aspects, and finding that trading Chinese antiques was a good business. In 1928, at his age of 28, he left his master and opened his own shop Lai Yuen in Paris, selling Chinese treasure. Then he dropped

A private hardcover copy of "AN EXHIBITION OF CHINESE BRONZES" with C.T. Loo's signature in 1939 1939 年盧芹齋簽名私印本《盧芹齋中國古青銅器展》硬面精裝圖錄

his original name and changed to Ching Tsai Loo, which sounded cultural in Chinese, and since then he was better known as C.T. Loo by his European and American clients and friends. In order to make his business big, he often returned to his Chinese hometown to raise fund for his company and to source the suppliers of the traditional art works. During the First World War, he once could not return to Paris from China, so he took an alternative route to Paris via New York, where he found the Chinese antique business having better future. He also opened a shop there. In a short time, Loo became a celebrated dealer of Chinese and Asian art and antiques both in Paris and New York. C.T. Loo, transporting Chinese national treasures to the western world, became controversial since 1949. However he defended himself that he paid fairly for Chinese antiques and important art works and transported them out of China, selling them to the collectors, art galleries and museums in Europe and US, being equal to find safe homes for them. During the 10 years period of Chinese Cultural Revolution in 1960's, huge amount of precious antiques and art objects were destroyed by the ignorant

Red Guards. C.T. Loo died early in 1957 more or less due to that he was condemned by the Chinese government in 1949. To Chinese, both the Pagoda and the Galerie have significance. Chinese tourists should go there to pay homage to Mr. Loo's Chinese heritage, not only the landmark exterior with its typical Chinese red colour and architectural features, but also the sumptuous interior having elaborate Shanxi lacquer panels, and remarkable thematic rooms within the Pagoda including the Salle Indienne, the Salle Cavaliers and the Petit Salon Porcelaine. The museum-shop is open from Wednesday till Saturday from 11.30 until 18.30 and the entry fee is 10 Euros per person.

Le Royal Monceau Raffles Paris To view Pagoda Paris, checking in at Le Royal Monceau Raffles Paris is a smart choice because it is located nearby, just a 5-minute's walk from the Champs-Élysées and the Arc de Triomphe and is only a 40-minute's drive from the airport. Royal Monceau Raffles is more than a 5-star luxury hotel, armed with two Michelin-starred restaurants, which serve both French and Italian

gastronomic-styled cuisine. You can also relax in the garden with a drink from the bar. The superstar hotel from the international famed Raffles chain also offers an indoor swimming pool with sunshine through the glass-top and a library of contemporary art books and a cinema room, which always draws beautiful people to the hotel. Le Royal Monceau Raffles hotel is distinctively designed by Philippe Starck, and rooms are equipped with flat-screen TV and mirrored bathroom, and three different moods are provided through the lighting system. Last but not least, the spa with a sauna, steam room, massage treatments and a fitness centre is enjoyable. The modern palace transformed from a French masterpiece building with 149 elegant rooms and luxury suites, enlivened by art and culture, is close to the Charles de Gaulle – Étoile Metro (lines 1, 2 and 6), being a 3-minute's walk. Choosing to stay there makes exploring Paris easy. Travel in Paris, learn about C.T. Loo, check in at Le Royal Monceau Raffles Paris, and you can always feel the openness and embrace of culture in this elegant city.

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ETIQUETTE 禮

中國塔在歐美玩古董的圈子裏，只要你提到

可令大家開眼界的 Pagoda Paris 彤閣古

C.T.LOO，則無人不知，無人不曉。可以說盧

法國漢學家 Geraldine Lenain（羅拉）有心，

董店在 Le Royal Monceau – Raffles Paris

芹齋是中國近代古文物流入海外的經手人和見

花了多年時間，走過歐美和中國各地，訪問不

酒店附近，那是巴黎 Palace 皇宮級別、比五

證人。一生走私出賣的明以前造像、石刻、青

少有關人等，寫成接近事實的盧芹齋傳，把這

星級還高的頂尖奢華酒店，全巴黎只有三幾間

銅器、玉器不計其數，其中大量出自于歷代皇

個古董圈傳奇人物的生平事蹟——如何在巴黎

而已。

帝被盜的陵墓，包括中國藝術史上最偉大的

和紐約闖出名堂，建立起古董生意王國——公

該家歷史建築酒店前身，在 1920 年代已

傑作之一，昭陵六駿中的“颯露紫”和“拳毛

諸於世。還有幸由翻譯高手卞婉鈺，把該本法

很受藝術家、知識份子、社會名流等愛戴，時

騧”。晚年的盧芹齋總結自己的一生充滿了矛

文原著譯成中文，在香港出版。

常冠蓋雲集，入住過的名人包括美國艾森豪將

盾，他承認自己使不少國寶流失海外，又為這

盧芹齋生平另一重大事蹟乃是於 1926 年

些國寶避免了戰亂得到了保護而感到幸運。這

在巴黎 48 rue de Courcelles 興建六層高的彤

還有美國娛樂界天皇例如 Michael Jackson,

些文物今天如果不放在歐美各個博物館、美術

閣（Pagoda Paris），這座巴黎市區唯一的中

Madonna, Robert de Niro, Lou Reed,

館內，也由私人妥善保存珍藏。換句話說，中

國風格建築，被法國旅遊書籍稱為“中國塔”。

Jennifer Lopez, Gwyneth Paltrow, Sofia

國大批文化遺產，通過盧芹齋轉手販賣，都得

彤閣不惜花費，很多美術細節都造得精緻，值

Coppola 和 Dustin Hoffman 等。

到歸宿。今天分佈在歐美各大藝術殿堂裡，也

得大家前往參觀，來緬懷這位傳奇人物。今天

此酒店近年轉手，改由享譽國際的新加

正好發揮宣揚中國文化的功能。

該家古董店雖然已易主，但仍用 C.T.Loo 這個

坡酒店品牌 Raffles 經營，邀請法國設計大師

名號，不時還舉行中國或亞洲藝術品展覽，每

Philippe Starck 重新規劃，花了兩年時間把酒

星期三至六從中午開放。

店從頭到腳完全翻新，而於 2010 年復業。

今天我們要實事求是，除了要回顧中國古董文物逃過民革災刧而輾轉流到歐美這段歷

新皇宮史，也要重新認識和評價盧芹齋這個人。難得

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軍、和路廸士尼、印度皇族、埃及君王等等，

Le Royal Monceau Raffles Paris

萊佛士皇家巴黎夢索酒店

Le Royal Monceau – Raffles Paris，再

刻精細，具宮殿格局，然而卻播放時下節奏音

客房的浴室與廁所分開，設在兩處，那是

次出發，迎接電子科技挑戰，能滿足新時代客

樂，氣氛輕鬆，不像同類餐廳那樣拘謹，很適

巴黎人的生活文化，他們說，一個人在使用浴

人需要，並不負皇家 Le Royal 這名稱，開業不

合今天商務旅客和富裕年輕享樂者。早餐在該

室或洗面盤時，不會妨礙另一個人使用馬桶。

久便晉身 Palace 皇宮行列。

處吃，有新鮮壽司供應，我吃到開心且開胃。

Le Royal Monceau – Raffles Paris 地

今天，該酒店重振昔日輝煌，藝術氣氛濃

至於酒店內義大利餐廳，設計簡潔摩登，裝置

點優勝，離凱旋門很近，步行一分多鐘便到；

厚，酒店大堂放有一本橫與直皆達一公尺的大

落地玻璃牆，可使外面花園草木與明亮室內簡

它又在 Champs Ellysees 香舍麗榭大道隔鄰的

畫冊。之外，我又見到兩隻印有曾梵志油畫作

潔環境連繫一起。該餐廳常滿，要享用宜早訂

Avenue Hoche 路上，門牌 37 號，十分寧靜，

品的瓷碟，原來酒店設藝術書店，展出藝術精

位。

完全不會受到萬千遊客幹擾，實在理想不過。

品讓客人購買。後來，我留意到整個酒店各個

新加坡 Raffles 的酒吧以 Long Table 聞名

角落，都有放置藝術品，而事實上，酒店內亦

世界，而該設計意念也移植到巴黎這座新世代

開了私人畫廊。

皇宮裡。

酒店內有家精緻電影院，時常租與客人舉

Le Royal Monceau – Raffles Paris 不

辦電影首映或試片活動，因此城中名人常會來

負盛名，房間設計尤其精心，床、椅、櫃等皆

聚一堂。

古典隆重，顯皇家氣派，而 Philippe Starck

Le Royal Monceau – Raffles Paris 能

又應用很多鏡，並延伸到浴室去，令整個客房

吸引城中名人，還因為擁有兩家 Michelin 一

高貴、明亮。房內燈光亦可營造多種效果，可

星級餐廳。法國餐廳天花很高，而牆壁橫樑雕

讓客人花時間來玩。

遊巴黎，識盧芹齋，住新皇宮，在這座優雅的城市你總能感到文化的開放與包容。

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MUSE 樂 First of the 2014 four course Summer tasting menu by Pierre Gagnaire - "Sea Garden", pair with Chateau Tour des Gendre, Cuvée des Conti Bergerac Blanc, France 2011. This French wine from the Southwest has a pale golden hue, fresh aromas of tangerine, pink grapefruit before a crisp mouth wide, with a nice sweetness. This is the kind of classic white to go with fish, seafood and white meats sauce. 香港「Pierre」餐廳 2014 年夏季品味菜單的「Sea Garden」，配酒為「Chateau Tour des Gendre, Cuvée des Conti Bergerac Blanc, France 2011」。此白酒來自法國西南部，呈淡金黃色，帶有橘子及粉紅葡萄柚香味，質感清爽後留有甜味。她是以海產類為主料，在淡鹹之間浮現鮮甜涼感的前菜，就如這「海中花園」的良配。

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C The

ivilized

onnoisseur 如斯品酒

TEXT/ 文：Yu Yat Yiu 于逸堯 PHOTO/ 攝：David Dai SPECIAL THANKS/ 特別鳴謝：香港文華東方酒店

The world of wine is a mystery with much joy. Appreciated by all drinkers present and past, wine has always been in a close relationship with their makers and consumers. Wine undoubtably brings people from all walks of life better together. Yet, how to properly "respect" and to truly appreciate wine, is nonetheless a perplexing subject to those being much attracted to it, yet at the same time don't feel confident to fully and freely enjoying the beauty of drinking due to a lack of knowledge and familiarity.

酒的世界是迷人的。迷醉是許多人喝酒的目的，也是古今中外千百年來酒精和人的一種利害關係。然而，對於不單單是「喝」，而希望進一步去「品」的朋友來說，「迷人」可能還有另外的含意。其一，先是被酒液連綿不絕散發出來的奇香迷倒；而對酒一知半解的饞嘴鬼而言，關於怎樣去品味、從甚麼角度去欣賞去頌讚一瓶佳釀，也許可以說是一件頗為教人迷惑不解，甚至迷失方向的事。

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MUSE 樂

The chef: Jean-Denis Le Bras

Located on the top floor of the iconic Mandarin Oriental Hotel Hong Kong, Chef de Cuisine Jean-Denis Le Bras delivers the modern and sophisticated creations by Monsieur Gagnaire to lucky Hong Kong diners on a daily basis. 位於香港文華東方酒店 25 樓的香港「Pierre」餐廳，主廚 Jean-Denis Le Bras 先生跟隨 Pierre Gagnaire 先生多年，完全掌握 Gagnaire 先生表現強烈現代結構感和多層次複合味譜的烹煮風格。

he world of wine is a mystery with much joy. Appreciated by all drinkers present and past, wine has always been in a close relationship with their makers and consumers, in an economical and a social context, as well as being an important part of one's cultural life of the community. Wine undoubtably brings people from all walks of life better together. It softens the boundary among individuals, sometimes creates a relaxing atmosphere at gatherings whenever it's being consumed with respect. Yet, how to properly "respect" and to truly appreciate wine, is nonetheless a perplexing subject to those being much attracted to it, yet at the same time don't feel confident to fully and freely enjoying the beauty of drinking due to a lack of knowledge and familiarity. These are perhaps, the hidden embarrassment for a generation of new comers on wine appreciation from today's China. In an era of China facing the world and the world watching China, this is indeed a golden opportunity for cross-cultural comity, for the honest exchange of ideas, which could first of all benefit the Chinese, and ultimately brings progress in a

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universal scale through better understanding among cultures. Wine is such an optimistic medium in this process, very much because of its soft and subtle quality displaying the fundamental aesthetic of Western culinary tradition. The appreciation of culinary art is always a casual yet effective way to understand a nation and its civilian, and that's indeed what Chinese today needed the most. Before opening up thoroughly to the world, before introducing our own cultural heritage to everybody, before bringing our wine and spirit to mainstream dining table, it's crucial to learn and understand the world, so that from a cultural reflection we could conceive and prepare ourselves better. This on the other hand, might be the underlying cause of the tremendous interests from today's Chinese on Western food and wine consumption. The demand itself might be superficial, yet if considering it as part of a learning process, it is not a bad starting point after all. Especially when some of the much knowledgeable Chinese diners start to wonder, "how could our centuries old culinary culture, and our unique legacy of wine making

and appreciation be properly exhibited to the world, like how the Japanese did in the past few decades?". In order to look for a way out, it could be a good beginning to carefully examine how the world adapted the mainstream wine tasting lore from European practice. When talking about Western culinary tradition, the French must be one prominent and momentous authority. French cuisine is considered to be the most complex, complete and cultural among all the European's. In fact, it is so significant that the UNESCO has recognized the gastronomic meal of the French an "Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity" in the year 2010. There are numerous French restaurants in China, one of them which probably tops most, if not all of the others, is "Pierre" at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel Hong Kong. Opened in 2006 by one of the giants of modern French culinary art, a pioneering figure in "Molecular Gastronomy" and "Fusion Cuisine" Monsieur Pierre Gagnaire, "Pierre" is his first and only restaurant in China till this very moment. Like all other Pierre Gagnaire's restaurants around the globe, "Pi-erre" in

"Grilled langoustine "Dundee-Peeky", green cabbage and mangetout. Hot consommé" is paired with Vigna di Gabri, Donnafugata, Sicily 2012. This is a fine and elegant white wine, with an intense, complex bouquet featuring fruity and floral notes of apple and acacia, together with salty and mineral finish. The sauce underneath the langoustine is a nice tangy one, and it sings beautifully with the floral notes from the wine. 「Grilled langoustine "Dundee-Peeky", green cabbage and mangetout. Hot consommé」，配上的是來自意大利西西里的「Vigna di Gabri, Donnafugata, Sicily 2012」。此優雅細緻的白葡萄酒，她的複合花果香氣，加上微微的礦物及海鹽回甘味，剛好與這個以海螯蝦為焦點的菜和諧地結合。螯蝦下有一層 Pierre Gagnaire 的招牌汁醬，汁醬略帶酸甜，亦和酒中花果香氣起了相輔相成的作用。總的來說，這個酒和菜的配搭有若二重唱表演，帶著一唱一和的微妙默契。

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MUSE 樂

The chief taster: Hubert Chabot

Head sommelier Hubert Chabot. When being asked what he thinks of a French meal without wine, his answer was simple and direct, "something is definitely missing, it's incomplete". 香港「Pierre」餐廳的首席品酒師 Hubert Chabot 先生指出，Pierre Gagnaire 先生的配酒喜好，是較為鍾愛來自他家鄉羅納河谷（Rhône Valley），比較屬乾性及具礦物性香味的出品，和產自勃艮第（Bourgogne/Burgundy），擁有複合性多重香氣的葡萄酒。這正好跟他在菜餚上所追求的那種多層次複合味道同出一轍，彼此完美地相互平衡，融合而成一種引人入勝的獨特味覺體驗。 Hong Kong is a shining stage for Gagnaire to perform his gastronomic magic with a vision, by presenting modern French food with innovation and creativity, yet comfortably within the boundary and spirit of the finest tradition of Classic French cooking. This style of Gagnaire is also well exhibited in wine pairing at "Pierre"; according to head sommelier Monsieur Hubert Chabot, Gagnaire treasures complexity and depth above all in terms of characteristic and quality found in fine wines. Those from his hometown the Rhône Valley as well as from Burgundy, which possess a relatively compound and elaborated bouquet, would probably be his preference when comes to pairing up with signature Pierre Gagnaire's creations. When talking to Chabot about how he managed to suggest a glass to go with every single dish prepared by Monsieur Jean-Denis Le Bras, the Chef de Cuisine of "Pierre" Hong Kong, he deliberately explains that the key word is "contrast". French wine pairing is all about contrast and balance between taste and aroma. According to Chabot, there are two key principles which always keep him going. 54

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First of all, it is always wise to look for wine produced in the same or nearby region with the main ingredients from the plate. Mother earth certainly attributes unique regional character to her produce, whether it is crops or it is the animal fed by crops. This is indeed not an unbreakable rule, yet it is a very good reference point for our taste buds to rediscover instinctive senses to the bewildering array of tastes from nature, and that leads to a more thorough understanding on what is meant by "matching" tastes. Secondly, it's about how to introduce the characteristic of the wine selected, and doing so with such subtlety that it won't overwhelm the dish and completely ruin the dining experience. On the other hand, wine too weak to show its face to the diner when matching with a strong dish is not a good choice either. The key here is to strike a balance in intensity between food and wine, so that both of them could compliment each other. Only when this is being controlled with perfection, then the interesting contrast between the two could be delivered. There is also a generic order for serving wines to the table; from light to strong, dry to

sweet, young to aged. This particular sequence, very much like an art performance, is bound to induce noticeable dynamic of taste and texture to a complete meal, from amuse-bouche all the way to petit four. All these methods and rules ultimately guide us to the appreciation of beauty, a very general "Western aesthetic" of eating and drinking. Food and wine is no doubt an art form of its own, ancient people of China were already embracing this similar concept more than 2000 years ago. Only by looking at the matter with such perspective and enthusiasm could we uplift our ability to appreciate and enjoy the precious gifts from farmers, fishers and winemakers. By the time the importance of respecting the ingredients and the mother nature is being learnt and practiced, we are then ready to pave the long road of re-establishing the pride of Chinese culinary culture.

The third course is the main course with meat - "Roasted leg of lamb flavoured with aromatic herbs, pearl onion, semolina with red bell pepper purée and garlic". This dish might sound a bit heavy, but actually it is pleasantly light and refreshing, reminds you of early summer time. It's paired with a red: Morey Saint Denis, Remy Seguin, Burgundy, France 2004. This French wine has a deep crimson colour, quite pronounced nose of strawberries, sweetness and a touch of spice. On the palate, it's a rich mouth filling flavour, with sweet strawberries, Asian spices and earth. The wine has a good acidity and freshness, and is my favourite pairing of the summer menu. It certainly brings the set menu to its climax.

一個聽似濃重，但實質飄逸可人，充滿夏天氣息的主菜——「Roasted leg of lamb flavoured with aromatic herbs, pearl onion, semolina with red bell pepper purée and garlic」。嫩滑無邪的羔羊，遇上來自法國勃艮第的佳釀「Morey Saint Denis, Remy Seguin, Burgundy, France 2004」，是四道菜中我最喜愛的一個配搭。深紅色的葡萄美酒，帶有草莓甜香混入乾燥香料的溫暖氣息，入口圓滿而有質感，適度的酸味和新鮮的草莓果甜及亞洲香料的土壤芬芳，是一囗複雜但井井有條的味感。配襯同樣以濃郁本味而揉合出來的，一道意想不到地既輕巧又豐腴的羊肉主菜，兩者分別為你帶來驚喜之餘，再合起來一同為你創造另一個驚喜，是這一頓夏日午宴的高潮所在。

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MUSE 樂

Dessert at "Pierre" is nothing short of a grand finale. This "Pierre Gagnaire's grand dessert" composed of four different small dishes, with different texture, taste and aroma. The distance between sweetness and sourness among these cuties is indeed quite significant. The sweet wine pairing with them is Montlouis sur Loire, Domaine Francois Chidaine, Loire Valley, France 2005. This Montlouis Moelleux sweet wine is plump up front, with fennel, anise seed and apple notes, ginger, humus and persimmon flavours defining a long, pure finish. It's also light in body but intense in flavour. The wine shuttles among the four sweets freely, your taste buds will never get lost with its guidance.

在「Pierre」餐廳吃飯，甜點向來都是有如煙花匯演的結尾一樣，五光十色綻放異彩。夏日品味午宴的最後一道甜點「Pierre Gagnaire's grand dessert」有四個小碟，都是由鮮果、餞果、奶油、酥脆餅、巧克力等等材料，配合教人出乎意料之外的香料來創造而成的。要配這個甜酸濃鮮之間幅度頗大的甜品拼盤，選酒上有一定的難度。Chabot 先生選擇了「Montlouis sur Loire, Domaine Francois Chidaine, Loire Valley, France 2005」這瓶屬於 Moelleux 甜酒的 Montlouis，帶有小茴和蘋果的香氣，味道令人啖出生薑及柿子，酒質輕盈卻又味濃是她的特色所在，也是她能在四小碟中穿梭來往也不至迷失方向的主要原因。

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隨著中國面向世界，世界迎對中國的這個新（Associazione Italiana Sommelier）」等等的認可。除了完全應和著 Pierre Gagnaire 先生及香港時代，中國人對西方的事物，有著深層的好奇和

在現今各式高端西餐廳，品酒師是團隊中重要一「Pierre」餐廳主廚 Jean-Denis Le Bras 先生在創

膚淺的崇拜，從近代歷史事實的角度去看，這是

員。除了要和主廚合作，提供餐廳內各樣菜色和

作菜式調合味道上的獨特風格外，也堅守法國傳

非常容易理解的一種現像。急於追趕世界大主流

菜單的配酒功課，更會直接接觸客人，為客人侍

統飲食文化承傳下來的配酒原則，即首先著重菜

的現代中國人，最快捷最立桿見影的手段，一定

酒配酒，甚至就著客人口味，建議適合的配餐葡

式的食材及烹調風格源自甚麼地區，而去選擇來

會是從「消費」入手。因為只要口袋裏的銀子不

萄酒與餐前餐後的開胃酒（apéritif）及助消化酒

自同一地域同一土壤所孕育出來的佳釀。味感上

缺，品位就好像垂手可得。一趟外遊一件古董、（digestif）。自從香港的餐酒入口稅在幾年前大幅

而言，Chabot 先生提倡以「對比」為主幹的配酒

一個學位一句外語，乃至一只腕錶一襲時裝一瓶

下調，香港已經成為世界其中一個活躍的洋酒中

概念，即遇上清爽淡麗的涼菜，最好配合糖份

洋酒一頓華筵，都可以立刻見功，快速惡補心底

心。而在米芝蓮指南登陸港澳之後，亦有許多屬

少，即所謂較「乾性（dry）」較輕盈的葡萄酒；又

裏面自信的隙縫，抑壓踏出家門的不安全感，同

於米芝蓮星級的餐廳和廚師，紛紛在香港建立自

如配合味道醬汁都較為稠重，如以肉類為主的大

時滿足對異國風情的好奇心。從正面的方向看

己在東亞地區的橋頭堡，以擴大他們星級餐飲王

盤，就以較強的、口感較豐富濃厚的酒為佳。最

來，只要當事人自知，這也不啻是悠長學習過程

國的版圖，強化他們的環球「星」譽。在這兩個

重要的，是酒的性格和面貌，𣎴應該蓋過食物本

的其中一種起步方針。

因素的影響下，香港的專業品酒師需求和人數均

身，而是應該與其巧妙融合，穿插遊走於菜餚的

有增無減，而且水準亦不斷提升。

味道與香氣的層次之間。同時，如果酒的個性

抱持學習別人的優點這個態度，其實也許還可以從中發掘我們中國傳統文化的美好之處。就

以一句著名的個人座佑銘「面對明天敬重昨

較食物弱，被食物壓倒過去，便也不能做到「對

回到酒這個課題，近年中國人開始對以法國飲食

天（tourné vers demain mais soucieux d'hier）」

比」下的效果，只會是一趟不成功的配對。最好

文化為首的高端餐酒文化表現出濃厚的興趣，也

縱橫世界頂尖廚藝界幾十個寒暑，出生於羅納

的酒菜相配，應該令客人感覺得到，在單獨品味

開始多見以西方的葡萄酒來配中國各地菜式的實

河谷（Rhône Valley）的現代法國菜巨人 Pierre

菜餚時，已經有一個它本身的鮮香味型圖譜在舌

驗。另一方面，在瞥見日本清酒成功隨日本菜打

Gagnaire 先生，於 2006 年在香港文華東方酒店

頭上呈現出來；但配上了合適的葡萄酒，酒和菜

入國際市場，並出現種種清酒入饌及清酒配菜的

開設了他到目前為止在中國的第一家餐廳——

的味道都會同時晉升，令圖譜進一步擴展，保持

西餐新潮流新主義後，也許會令不少中國人想起「Pierre」。跟在其他世界各地由 Gagnaire 先生

味覺神經對這道菜的新鮮感，一直到完成整盤菜

開設的餐廳一樣，在香港的「Pierre」用餐，可

餚的最後一口為止，也不會覺得有絲毫厭膩的感

酒也能成就嗎？要去審視這個課題，其實首先應

以品嘗到這位被認為是「分子料理（Molecular

覺。若果從整整一頓飯的流程來看，配酒的次序

去窺探西方餐桌上的配酒文化。

G a s t r o n o m y ）」及「無國界融合菜（ F u s i o n

大致上適宜由淡到濃、由新到陳、由乾到甜。當

除了閱讀研究西方配酒文化的硬歷史，和

Cuisine）」的先鋒，但依然緊守傳統法國菜精神

然這不是一個不能破的規條，但其概念有如造文

無數有關這個題目的網站書籍雜誌等來增加自

的國際級廚藝大師，他在烹調食物的創意上所施

章寫音樂編劇本一樣，以起承轉合來引領帶動觀

己對這方面的認識之外，其實更可以從每天浸

行的奇妙魔法。一如香港「Pierre」餐廳的首席品

眾的感觀和思維，從而成就一個完整的藝術欣賞

淫在這門藝術中的品酒師（Sommelier）那裏去

酒師 Hubert Chabot 先生所言，吃一頓法國菜，

體驗。所以說，飲食文化確實是人類文化藝術的

取經。品酒師是一門專業；在西餐的世界，尤

哪怕是傳統的還是創新融合的，如果沒有餐酒的

一環，而且是既普及又有深度，並和生活相連緊

以法國及意大利為領，品酒師這資格，是須要

適當配合，會令整體的用餐體驗若有所失、不盡

扣的重點一環。搞好了這一環，品位種植到腦髓

經過多年的課程訓練和實習，才能獲得有關協

完滿。由此可知，配酒是一頓西方盛宴劃龍點睛

到血液裏面去，一理通百理明，往後再去走出一

會如歷史悠久的「法國侍酒師協會（Union de la

之處。

條屬於自己的味道之路，也坦然、也康莊。

中國酒的前途問題。清酒能夠做到的，我們中國

Sommellerie Française）」或「意大利品酒師協會

Chabot 先生經驗豐富，他的配酒功夫， MOUTAI Magazine

MUSE 樂

Patrick's Adventure 白馬哥的冒險

TEXT/ 編輯：Towerman Guo INTERVIEW/ 采訪：Grace TRANSLATION/ 譯：Grace IMAGE/ 圖：Jiangyue Wang/Cammy France

MOUTAI Magazine

French comedian Patrick Veisselier is undergoing a strange adventure. When he drank off the Moutai liquor, this legendary oriental spirits made him instantly burn. Accompanied by an unprecedented feeling, artistic inspiration was ignited; the long aftertaste was like a time travel, he suddenly became an "authentic Chinese", and used the completely strange Chinese to start an amazing adventure. 法國喜劇演員“白馬哥”正在經歷一場奇特的冒險。他將茅台酒一飲而盡，東方的傳奇烈酒讓他瞬間燃燒，伴隨從未體驗過的感覺，藝術靈感被點燃，漫長的餘韻仿佛一場穿越，他搖身變成“地道中國人”，用完全陌生的中文開始了一段令人驚異的冒險之旅。

ext, I will show a very humorous 'Chinese' for you."

At Paris' long-established Le Palace theatre, the fattish and funny French comedian Patrick Veisselier wore a T-shirt printed with the Chinese characters " 白馬哥 " (Brother Charming or Brother White Horse literally). With a southern Chinese accent and in the form of Western traditional talk show, he started his talk "Patrick the Chinese Man" in Mandarin. In a trance, you were as if led to a tea or opera house that was full of traditional Chinese charms. "Brother White Horse" was the Chinese name he picked up for himself. From any perspective of Chinese culture, "White Horse" is inextricably linked with hero, gallop, and adventure. Whether in Cao Zhi's words "on a white horse decorated with golden bridle, I gallop towards the northwest" or Li He's words "riding a white horse, the man carried a sword with tassel on the handle", people will definitely think of the distant scenery. In the network context of the contemporary China, "brother" is a kind and handsome title, irrelevant to seniority or intimacy. A man called "brother" is very cool and handsome among crowds. To some extent, the combination of "white horse" and "brother" aptly blends traditional charm with the charm of the contemporary China. The idea of Chinese talk show came from a casual conversation. One of his Chinese friends complained that Paris had hardly any comedians catering to the Chinese sense of humour, and there were a lot of French sense of humour that often left Chinese people cold. The man who had been a French comedian for 10 years was surprised by this, then, came up with the idea of performing the talk show in mandarin, and passionately put it into practice. It was undoubted a strange adventure. Patrick understood that it was an impossible mission to stage the talk show in fluent mandarin just in a few months, because it was difficult for him to learn and read the complex Chinese; however, Patrick determined to make a bold challenge, as he loved Chinese culture deeply. He paid for a Chinese teacher for 8 hours a day and 5 weeks of intensive training. When he finished the intensive study, his Chinese teacher told him happily that his pronunciation was close to the accent of southern China. On the stage at Le Palace theatre, the 41-year-old comedian started his fantastic talk show in Chinese. He drank off the Moutai liquor to feel the rich taste on the tongue; the strong bouquet instantly permeated and the long aftertaste ignited all his artistic inspiration; he suddenly became an "authentic Chinese" with a wonderful story. In his story, a Frenchman in his forties, hoped to become a Chinese in order to achieve success. Whenever he drank Moutai, he forgot French and can only speak Chinese. Patrick sometimes watched the script quietly, sometimes talked to the teleprompter, sometimes showed confused, and sometimes felt excited.

The Chinese he learned within the two months was like magic to attract thousands of audiences. It is more difficult to generate laughter to a mixed-culture audience as compared to a single-culture audience. Patrick drank Moutai during his performance, made the show more oriental verve, and used Chinese and French alternately to capture both Chinese and French audiences' heart as much as possible. He used a Chinese teleprompter to help in case he forgot one of his lines. In fact, it is not a new experience that the foreigners take an adventure to perform in Chinese, because lots of foreigners have done this already. For example, the Canadian Da Shan followed Jiang Kun, and became China's first foreign cross talk performer; the French Julien followed Ding Guang Quan, and became the first French cross talk performer. Distinctively, Patrick wants to be the first French comedian to perform talk show in Mandarin, and this ambitious Frenchman has planned to stage his talk show in China, despite his Chinese level remains on the rote learning of pronunciation. In this sense, as an "authentic Chinese", Patrick's adventure of talk show in mandarin is just begun.

MOUTAI Magazine

MUSE Теѓ

MOUTAI Magazine

City Travelling Over

the

EDITING/ 編輯：Elis IMAGE/ 圖：Hotel Indigo 英迪格酒店 TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung

From Atlanta to London, from New York to Shanghai, from Miami to Vancouver, from Rome to Hong Kong.... Just as there are no two identical neighbours, there are no two identical Hotel Indigo in the world. As a metropolis blended with traditional and modern styles, Hong Kong becomes an ideal place for Indigo to demonstrate its creativity, and thus greeted such a long-established top InterContinental hotel last year. Hanging on the roof top (29th floor) of the Hotel, the swimming pool seems to get rid of the earth gravity and stretch into the city sky. Swimming in the open sky is not to keep away from the earth but to better embrace life. Overlooking the city changes while swimming, you may feel that the entire Wan Chai history and culture lift you up. Where is the so-called good time? Here it is. 從亞特蘭大到倫敦，從紐約到上海，從邁阿密到溫哥華，從香港到羅馬。正如不會有兩個相同的鄰居，這個世界上也不會有兩間相同的英迪格酒店。香港，這座傳統與現代交融的風情都市，成為英迪格釋放創意的腳本，也終於在去年迎來了這一久負盛名的洲際精品酒店。高懸於酒店頂層的游泳池，掙脫大地引力般伸向城市天際，在敞開的天空遨遊，為的並非遠離大地，恰恰更適合擁抱生活。遨遊中俯視城市變化，仿佛將你托起來的是整個灣仔歷史和文化，所謂時光美好，便是如此。

MOUTAI Magazine

MUSE Теѓ

MOUTAI Magazine

wned by IHG (InterContinental Hotels Group), Hotel Indigo Hong Kong Island is the culmination of a five-year project designed by Aedas International Ltd. Its architectural style refers to the rich and subtle history and culture of Wan Chai and reflects a distinctive vitality and charm. Wrapping the building is a striking gold dragon. It counteracts hot spots and solar gain, creating a dramatic image of a dragon folded around the exterior of the building, functioning as an "eco-screen", and representing the future of environmental design in Hong Kong. All rooms adopt the design of large floor-to-ceiling windows that welcome in the sights of Wan Chai, with glimpses of Chinese Tenement

Houses and views of the neighbourhood hustle and bustle. If you are on the top floors of the Hotel, you can gaze majestically upon the vibrant neighbourhood of Wan Chai and feel the changes of both times and landmarks in Wan Chai. Appreciate carefully and you will find that everywhere here is a combination of neighbourhood culture and local creativity. In addition to inviting local artists to create Mosaic murals in the rooms, the hotel also specially divides the floors into three themes: Old Wan Chai Post Office, Butterflies, and Dragons, respectively representing the past, present, and future of Wan Chai. Local original works are blended with new and old Wan Chai elements to artistically and cleverly demonstrate the characteristics of the Wan Chai area. The blue statue is

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HARMONY 和

MOUTAI Magazine

created based on the legendary kung-fu master Lam Jo, a successor of Wong Fei-hung, and is adored by many people due to its historical details, cultural features, vividness, and affability. The Chinese tea set near the western-styled sofa is eye-catching and exudes a strong Chinese traditional taste. These interesting elements retrieved from Wan Chai form a vibrant space for relaxing and experiencing the unique characteristics of the Hong Kong neighbourhood. The most stunning design, of course, lies in the glass-bottomed and cantilevered pool on the roof top (29th floor) of the Hotel. 13.6 metres long and 3.6 metres wide, this swimming pool seems to be hang in the skyline. It will be extremely exciting to swim in the pool. Many people may be tempted to try, but also hesitate. Fully tempted by the hustle and bustle, you have no choice but to jump into the pool, swim freely like a fish that flies in the sky and gets rid of the earth gravity, and feel the surreal world. With blue sky and clouds above, green mountains afar, and prosperous townscape below, this is indeed an ideal place for leisure and pleasure. This pool shimmers along with the hotel's glass exterior at night and is often associated with the concept of a wrapping dragon reaching for a gleaming pearl, which creates a unique addition to the skyline of Hong Kong. Perhaps you can say that this has been more than just a swimming pool, but â&#x20AC;&#x2039;a unique world stand.

elements to create a chic and glamorous atmosphere. The CafĂŠ Post on the 2nd floor offers the best coffee in Wan Chai. Sitting in the alfresco terrace area, you can enjoy the original local flavour and capture the entire scenery of the historic Old Wan Chai Post Office. Most hotels have no library but this hotel is an exception. The library here not only provides a great selection of books but also provides the book exchange service.... A leisure time full of details, a somersault over the city, and an experience of new and old culture, are indeed out of the ordinary.

More unique and interesting places are waiting for you to explore. The Skybar is also on the roof top. Inspired by the traditional Chinese printing technology, the design also adopts the concept of blending new and old

MOUTAI Magazine

HARMONY 和

MOUTAI Magazine

CHINESE IMPRINTS IN 里昂 LYON 的中國印記 EDITING / 編輯：Old-Hou TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung

Each city has its own story, and countless stories are piled into the city's hidden buildings. People rest their emotion in the city. Wherever you come from or wherever you go, your heart will stay with this city. As for Lyon, her story is very special. 每個城市都有自己的故事，無數的故事堆積成這個城市的隱秘建築，人們將情感棲居於此，無論你來自任何地方，去到任何地方，你的心都不會遠離。關於里昂，她的故事很特別。 MOUTAI Magazine

HARMONY 和

周恩來 Zhou Enlai

鄧小平 Deng Xiaoping

1920 年 11 月 7 日，22 歲的周恩來登

1920 年 9 月 11 日，16 歲的鄧小

上法國“波爾多”號郵船前往法國，

平在上海登上法國郵輪“盎特萊

1932 年、1936 年分別畢業于法國里昂國立美術學

並於 1921 年帶領留法勤工儉學學生

蓬”號開始留學生涯。1925 年

校、法國巴黎高等美術專科學校。回國後歷任國立

1920 年，張若名與周恩來等一起登上輪

開展了“爭回里昂中法大學”運動。

春，作為中共旅歐支部的特派員

敦煌藝術研究所所長、敦煌文物研究所所長，被譽

船離滬赴法。1924 年 10 月進入里昂中法

On November 7, 1920, the 22-year-

被派往里昂地區工作。

為“敦煌守護神”。陳芝秀與其一同赴法留學，於法

大學學習，成為中國第一位法國女博士。

old Nankai University student Zhou

On September 11, 1920, the

國巴黎高等美術學院學習雕塑。

1930 年 5 月 31 日，張若名與在里昂中法大

boarded the French packet ship

In June 1927, Chang Shuhong went to France to study

學讀博士的楊堃結婚。

"Bordeaux" to go to France. In 1921

16-year-old Deng Xiaoping

"André Lyon" in Shanghai and

École Nationale supérieure des Beaux-Arts (ENBA) in

boarded the ship from Shanghai to France.

Enlai boarded the French packet ship he led the students of the work-study program in France to launch the

campaign of "fighting to get back the Lyon Sino-French Institute".

started his career of studying

abroad. In the spring of 1925, as

the special commissioner of the

CPC (Communist Party of China)

European branch, Deng Xiaoping was sent to work in the Lyon district.

First Leg of the Trip -- Lyon On March 25, 2014, President Xi Jinping and his wife Peng Liyuan arrived in Lyon, kicking off the state visit to France. France has many charming cities, with elegance and romance permeating every inch of land in this country. Upon the 50th anniversary of Sino-French diplomatic relations, in such an important state visit, why is Lyon chosen as the first stop. Such arrangement, naturally, has extraordinary significance. In all French cities, Lyon is undoubtedly a very special one. About her history, Chinese people have their own stories and memories. Though the years passed, yet these stories are not sealed; memory is not fragmented by space. Lyon, like a cup of fermented emotion wine, has a blend of Chinese and French taste. In fact, connections between Lyon and China can be traced back to more ancient times. As we know, Lyon is not only an important silk handicraft city of Europe, but also the "Silk Capital" of France. As the west end point of the ancient Silk Road, Lyon was the European

MOUTAI Magazine

常書鴻、陳芝秀夫婦

張若名、楊堃夫婦

Chang Shuhong and His Wife Chen Zhixiu

Zhang Ruoming and Her Husband Yang Kun

painting at his own expense. He graduated from Lyon's

In 1920, Zhang Ruoming and Zhou Enlai

1932 and École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts

She entered the Lyon Sino-French Institute

de Paris in 1936. After returning from abroad, he served as the director of the National Dunhuang Art Institute

and the Dunhuang Institute for Cultural Relics, and was renowned as the "Guardian of Dunhuang Caves". Chen Zhixiu went to France together with Chang Shuhong and studied sculpture in École Nationale Supérieure

in October 1924 and became China's first

female French doctoral student. On May 31, 1930, Zhang Ruoming married Yang Kun

who was working toward a doctorate in the Lyon Sino-French Institute.

des Beaux-Arts de Paris.

distribution centre of Chinese silk products, and had a long history of trade with China. From the Renaissance to the early 19th century, the silk industry had dominated the city's economic lifeline, and used its prosperity to witness China's past Golden Age. In modern times, Lyon had even more emotional Chinese imprints. The history for China to send students to France can be traced back to the year 1752 during Qianlong's reign in the Qing Dynasty. In early 20th century, a large number of Chinese students studied in France. As early as in 1900, Lyon became the only European city to have Chinese lessons. Between 1919 and 1920, there were 20 batches of more than 1,700 Chinese students studying in France, including Zhou Enlai, Deng Xiaoping, Chen Yi, Li Fuchun, Li Weihan, Nie Rongzhen, and Xu Teli, forming a climax of work-study program. In May 1975, after half a century, as the state guest of France, Deng Xiaoping once again set foot on this territory, which was the first official visit to western powers for the leader of New China after France became the first major

Western country to have established diplomatic relations with New China. Both Paris and Lyon were the places where his revolutionary career began. Surprisingly, during his state visit, he entrusted someone with the purchase of hundreds of French croissants, and brought the croissants back to Zhou Enlai, Nie Rongzhen, and Li Fuchun. They relived the moments when they were on work-study program together in France. In Paris, French President Giscard d'Estaing entertained Deng Xiaoping with hospitality, and said to Deng Xiaoping: I hope your trip to France this time can arouse your memories of France.

Lyon Sino-French Institute On the hills of south-western Lyon city, there is a school transformed from an idle barrack. It remains the unique compound wall of barrack for its exterior. The yellow brick is the main tone, and the yard is lined with green trees. Carved on the door, the four characters " 中法大學 " (Sino-French Institute) are still faintly visible

陳毅 Chen Yi

潘玉良 Pan Yuliang

戴望舒 Dai Wangshu

鄭大章 Zheng Dazhang

1919 年 10 月 10 日，18 歲的陳毅與其餘 60

1921 年 7 月成為里昂中法大學在國內招收

1933 年入讀里昂中法大學，攻讀法國文

1920 年秋，16 歲的鄭大章到法國勤工儉

多名中國學生抵達法國。1921 年，與周恩

的第一批留學生，學習美術，成為第一個

學史。里昂三大的校園裏有一株丁香和

學。1929 年成為居里夫人的第一名中國留

來等領導開展了“爭回里昂中法大學”運

獲得國際榮譽的中國女畫家。

一塊扇形銅牌，上刻中文：“紀念中國

學生，之後，他還參與了里昂中法大學鐳

動。

In July 1921, Pan Yuliang became one of

詩人戴望舒，里昂中法大學學生（1933-

學研究所的籌建工作。

1935）”。

by the Lyon Sino-French Institute and went

In the autumn of 1920, the 16-year-old Zheng

In 1933, Dai Wangshu was admitted to the

Dazhang went to study in France on work-

History of French Literature. Today, there

Curie's first Chinese student. Later, he also

the campus of Université Lyon 3, carved

up the Institute of Radium in the Lyon Sino-

On October 10, 1919, after nearly two

months' sailing, the 18-year-old Chen Yi arrived in France together with over 60 Chinese students. In 1921, Chen Yi and

Zhou Enlai led other students to launch the campaign of "fighting to get back the Lyon

the first batch of Chinese students enrolled to France to study art, becoming the first

Chinese female painter with international honours.

Sino-French Institute".

Lyon Sino-French Institute, studying the

study program. In 1929, he became Mrs.

is a fan-shaped bronze in a clove tree at

participated in the preparation of setting

with Chinese characters: " 紀念中國詩人

French Institute.

戴望舒，里昂中法大學學生 (1933-1935)" (to commemorate the Chinese poet Dai Wangshu, a student of the Lyon SinoFrench Institute).

after years of erosion. It was such a very special institute that closely connected the two ancient kingdoms with different civilizations of East and West together. Therefore, the trip of President Xi Jinping's visit to France definitely cannot miss such a link between Chinese and French cultures. Founded in 1921, Lyon Sino-French Institute was the first and only Chinese university outside China. In early 20th century, in the context of promoting exchanges between Chinese and French education and culture, the vigorous movement of Chinese students studying in France on work-study program became the tide of the times, and gave birth to this special institute. From 1921 to 1950, this institute trained nearly 500 Chinese students, including many cultural celebrities of China's modern times, and prominent figures who later became cultural elites and key technicians in China's construction and development. Artist Chang Shuhong went to France in June 1927 and was admitted to Lyon SinoFrench Institute on government scholarships in October. He lived a total of 13 years in France.

To protect the Dunhuang frescoes, he returned from abroad, dedicated to the Dunhuang art, and became the "patron saint" of Dunhuang frescoes; as cultural mediators, Jing Yinyu and Dai Wangshu translated many French masterpieces, adding more brilliant lustre to the French literature; Zhang Ruoming was a pioneer of modern Chinese women's movement, and the first female doctoral student of Sino-French Institute; as an automotive engineering expert, He Naimin made outstanding contributions to the development of China's automobile industry after his return from abroad; Pan Yuliang chose to stay in France and later became a great artist. In 1931, Zhang Xi published a thesis titled "Research on Coastal Benthic Molluscs of Provence", and became the first Chinese to carry out marine research; Zheng Dazhang, under the guidance of Pierre and Marie Curie, completed his thesis on the stable affinity of magnesium in radioactive minerals. After returning to China, he founded the Institute of Radium in the National Academy of Peiping; in 1935, Ye Yunli published a thesis on the studies (using flow method) of potassium and rubidium

radioactivity. Her thesis tutor Jean Perrin was the 1926 winner of the Nobel Prize in physics… In fact, this list can be much longer. Sino-French Institute enabled the two great countries to know and understand each other, and witnessed the profound friendship. Such a history deserves to be written, memorized, and inherited. On March 26, accompanied by the French Foreign Minister Laurent Fabius and the Mayor of Lyon, President Xi Jinping and his wife Peng Liyuan walked into the lush campus, came to the main building of the institute, and together inaugurated a centre for the promotion of ChinaLyon relations and a history museum of Lyon Sino-French Institute. It is worth mentioning that, at present, the number of Sino-French exchange students is about 50,000. The cultural exchange and friendship spirit carried by Lyon Sino-French Institute is an ideal foundation for the symbiotic development of a pluralistic world.

MOUTAI Magazine

HARMONY 和

0 Years

Camus Chosen to Mark 50 Years of Sino-French Diplomacy 甄選卡慕獻禮中法 50 周年

EDITING/ 編輯：Grace Liu, Billy Yung SPECIAL THANKS/ 特別鳴謝：Camus 卡慕

It was in General de Gaulle's office at Versailles Palace that French President Francois Hollande presented President Xi Jinping of China with a cased decanter of Camus Cognac during his recent state visit to France.

近日，值中國國家主席習近平訪法之際，正是在凡爾賽宮戴高樂將軍曾經辦公的地方，法國總統佛朗索瓦奧朗德向習近平主席贈送了一份特殊的禮物——精美絕倫的卡慕干邑禮盒。

ognac, acclaimed and appreciated the world over as the ultimate gift, symbolizing the excellence of French craftsmanship and "art de vivre" (life style), was also the first ever Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) to be recognized and protected in China. Furthermore, in 1964, France was the first major western nation to officially acknowledge the People's Republic of China. To create this "one-off" piece, the 150 year-old, independent family-run Maison Camus selected from its private collection, a 1964 vintage Cognac, which the Cellar Master at that time had decided to keep for the perfect balance between its intense aromas and delicate bouquet. After many years of careful nurturing in oak casks, this grand Cognac can now reveal its potential and aromas to the full. What bottle could possibly match this precious nectar from one of the finest vintages of the 20th century? The Maison Camus' iconic decanter, chiseled from the purest crystal and produced by BACCARAT – also a symbol of French high-end

craftsmanship, of international renown – is another tribute to the 50th anniversary, as it was originally created to contain a Cognac specially blended to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Maison Camus. Lastly, the case itself is the work of a French master cabinetmaker whose art perpetuates ancient techniques, using the most precious wood, exclusively of French origin. The timeless elegance of this exceptional, entirely hand-made piece is a reminder of the long-lasting and strong friendship between France and China. One such flourishing relationship maintained for many years with Maison Camus is with Kweichow Moutai – a partnership initiated ten years ago by which Camus has brought international recognition to the most iconic spirit of China, making it to be one of the world's highest-quality and most reputable brands today. This is a fine example of Sino-French co-operation in the category of high-end products: the fruit of an exceptional terroir and centuries-old craftsmanship. French President Hollande presented President Xi with Camus Cognac 法國總統奧朗德向習主席贈送的卡慕干邑禮盒

MOUTAI Magazine

French President Hollande presented President Xi with Camus Cognac

幹邑產品，是法式“生活藝術”及精湛手工

品也同樣代表著法國手工藝之精粹，憑其舉世無

藝的完美詮釋，在全世界範圍內廣為人知並備受

雙的高貴品質而享譽世界。這款標誌性的酒樽已

尊崇，更是第一個獲得中國認證的地理標誌產品

經成為了卡慕世家秉承的傳統，它的誕生可以追

（AOC）。此外，在 1964 年，法國是第一個同中

溯到 100 年前卡慕世家 50 週年年慶時的特別時

國建立正式外交關係的西方大國。

Moutai liquor specially produced for Camus'

法國總統奧朗德向習主席贈送卡慕干邑禮盒

刻。

為了打造一款曠世佳釀，150 年來始終由家

這款珍罕幹邑雅緻木盒出自法國著名的木匠

族獨立掌控的卡慕世家在家族酒窖珍藏中甄選一

大師，選取百分之百法國珍貴木料，手工打造而

款獨特的 1964 年份幹邑。這款幹邑由當年的酒

成。這件無與倫比的藝術作品，以其停滯於時光

窖主管典藏至今，旨在不斷尋求其馥郁口感及精

之上的優雅氣質，象徵著中法兩國永恆的友誼。

妙花香之間的完美平衡與和諧。再經長年累月在

而中法兩國在酒文化上的淵源可以追溯到

橡木桶中的陳釀，最終令這款偉大的幹邑傑作盡

多年以前，其中卡慕世家與貴州茅台之間的合作

情釋放其內在的華麗潛質以及飽滿香氣。

被傳為一段佳話。十年內，卡慕成功地將這款中

怎樣的酒樽才能承載這樣一款源自 20 世紀

國最負盛名的民族烈酒推至世界知名高端烈酒之

最偉大年份的稀世珍釀呢？卡慕選擇了由最純淨

列。這段中法兩國在高端產品領域聯姻的佳話，

的巴卡拉水晶打造而成的酒樽。巴卡拉水晶工藝

源於無可複制的“風土”以及“跨時代”的工藝。

global tax-free stores 卡慕公司在全球免稅店經銷特製的茅台酒

MOUTAI Magazine

HARMONY 和

Craig Au-yeung Column 歐陽應霽專欄

Bottoms up to the Toasts 為乾杯而乾杯 TEXT/ 文：Craig Au-yeung 歐陽應霽 TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung

am not a drinker and have no special studies on wine. Although I used to enjoy the relaxed pleasure when drank and talked together with close friends, yet I always felt that all of us were dreamy when talked everything while drinking. If the words are just nonsense, that's OK. What troubles honest people like me is that how true or how false in others' words after drinking. Even if I just drink with friends occasionally, some friend may get drunk accidentally and show me another (more realistic?) side of him. After this happens for several times, you may find that everybody has his second, third, or even fourth side, which is too much for me; alcohol may cause a subtle melancholy. In this case, I can only use the same old words for myself: It's OK. I'm not drunk. I do not drink frequently and seldom go to a bar. So, occasionally, when I am invited to meet some friends in a deliberately decorated space that impresses me (and then depresses me), I will get shocked. Out of habit, I will touch everywhere -- certainly not the people around me, but the construction materials of the wall, desktop, and seat back. The indoor environment is certainly a little dark and lights may change the material colour a lot; so sometimes I may exaggeratedly get very close to the materials, giving an illusion of "smelling". The friends familiar with me probably know that is my occupational habit. Strange friends, however, will think I'm drunk without drinking and get crazy in advance in the smell of strong alcohol -It's OK. I'm not drunk. Recently in Taipei, I am pushed into the bar area reported to be in very intense competition. One-ticket drinking is popular recently and many bar owners allow customers to buy a special ticket and drink to their hearts' content and capacity. The price of one-ticket drinking ranges from the basic level of 300 TWD to the top level of 900 TWD. Cocktail, red wine, white wine, sparkling wine, beer, and whiskey are all

MOUTAI Magazine

provided for customers to booze up. Adhering to my principle of drinking properly, I watch aside obediently. The most irritating thing is that, for convenience, the bar owners of the socalled contented drinking use cheap plastic cups to serve wines. Even if I am not a drinker, I also know the intimacy between wines and cups. An alcoholic is called an alcoholic maybe because he or she has already destroyed his/her image. Despite of wine or liquor, the alcoholic just drinks, or to be exactly, pours it without hesitation. The dramatic purpose of an alcoholic is getting drunk but not sipping the drink like us. In fact, the difference between an alcoholic and a non-alcoholic is very simple. That is, we use cups to drink. Using a suitable cup for different wines is a great wisdom. As we know, to drink wine, you need a goblet. Hold on the cup feet so as not to transfer the heat of your hand to the wine. This can avoid temperature increase of the wine. With a tulip-shaped cup body and a cup rim narrower than the cup body, the cup can effectively trap the wine aroma so that you can smell clearly when getting close to the cup rim. Whether the cup is large or small, or whether the cup is made of glass or crystal, does not matter much for tasting wine. Some people may insist on using a large cup to drink Millesimes red wine or using different cups to taste the wines from different producing regions or grape varieties. This is beyond the understanding of beginners like me. For me, when a large group of old friends drink happily, it's acceptable to fill the wine even in paper cups. You need a short-foot wide-mouth cup for whisky, an exquisite carving small cup for brandy, and dedicated cups with individuality for sake and yellow wine. To drink champagne which is used mostly in toast occasions, maybe you can use more fancy cups. Once, in an awarded works exhibition for champagne glass design in Italy, I see a good number of

No matter what cup is used, people have to happily speak up "cheers" or "bon sante", and then clink cups, pour the wine in the mouth, and swallow it right away.

interesting cups specially designed for toast. Among them, there are a set of cups with orderly arranged heights. They are arranged to form a full musical scale. During cup clinking, different chords are generated, very clear, melodious, and interactive. Some people may add sounding pendants to the cup bottoms. So they can make attractive and pleasant sounds before a toast or speech without using fork or spoon to knock cups. In some design, with a magnet at the cup bottom, the cup can be attached to the metal serving tray so as not to overturn good wine in an exciting party. There are also cups with super long feet. They are convenient for friends at opposite sides to clink cups… No matter what cup is used, people have to happily speak up "cheers" or "bon sante", and then clink cups, pour the wine in the mouth, and swallow it right away. Most liquor cups are usually made of glass or ceramics. You can feel the warmth of liquor through the porcelain or appreciate the purity of liquor through the glass. The formidable alcohol content of liquor determines that the cup capacity should be small. Suitable to drink straightly, liquor has a strong aroma as well. After swallowed, a cup of liquor may give you a burning feeling and then the sweet aftertaste. Such a lingering fragrance is always prepared for those who embrace challenge. One cup after another, this is full of warm feelings of Chinesestyled toast.

不是酒徒，對酒沒有特別研究。雖然也享受過好友同聚把酒談心的那種放鬆愉快，但總覺

倒為目標而不是我們一般的輕嚐淺酌。酒鬼與非酒鬼最大的分別簡單不過，我們喝酒用杯。

得一邊喝酒一邊天南地北的亂聊到最後大家都虛

喝甚麼酒用什麼杯，這又是大學問。大家當

虛浮浮的，如果說話不算數倒沒什麼，但酒後的

然知道喝葡萄酒用高腳杯，用手提住杯腳，就不

真言有多真，假話有多假，老實人如我就更難知

會把手的熱力傳到杯身而不必要的提高了酒的溫

難料。即使如此下來這樣偶爾喝喝，也會因為身

度。而杯身呈鬱金香形，杯口比杯身稍窄，就把

邊友儕忽然喝「大」了，讓有機會重新看看這位

酒的香氣有效的困於杯內，好讓你把鼻子貼近杯

朋友的（更真實的？）另一面。但當如此下來發

口，嗅個明白清楚。至於杯的大小，質材是玻璃

覺原來每個人都有這樣的第二第三第四面，叫我

是水晶，其實對品酒影響分別不大。有的人堅持

實在吃不消，酒精影響下暗生一種微妙難解的惆

要用較大的葡萄酒杯喝陳年紅酒，又或者用不同

悵－－唯有最經典最老土的對自己說，沒事，我

的酒杯去品嚐不同釀酒區甚至葡萄品種，就不是

沒有醉。

我這些初學者可以理解的，一大群老友隨便喝得

因為不常喝，也極少到那些專門喝酒的夜

興起，即使把酒斟在白紙杯裡也不是罪過。

店，所以當偶爾被一堆朋友約在那些裝潢得叫人

喝威士忌的矮腳寬口杯，喝白蘭地的精緻

眼前一亮（然後一黑）的超刻意空間碰面，都會

刻花小杯。喝清酒喝黃酒，都各有性格特色的專

像大鄉裏一般目定口呆嘩嘩連聲。出於職業習

用杯，至於喝香檳，畢竟是祝酒場合多用，似乎

慣，還會伸手到處摸－－當然不是亂摸身邊的

就可以更調皮更花俏一點。有回在意大利一個

人，而是牆上的桌面的椅背的建造材料。因為室

香檳酒杯設計的得獎作品展裡，看到好一批為乾

內環境肯定比較暗，而且燈光的影響更把面料的

杯而乾杯的有趣角色。當中有一套杯身高矮有

顏色改變了不少，所以出現過的誇張情況是會離

序，排列成為完整音階，乾杯時就可以互敲出不

得很近距離像在「聞」，熟悉我的朋友大概知道

同和音，十分清脆十分互動。有人在杯底加了一

我又是職業病發作，但陌生朋友都會以為我未喝

個響鈴墜子，不用加匙加叉的敲酒杯也可做成祝

先醉，「聞」到酒精瀰漫已經早人一步提前發酒

酒致詞前引人註意的歡聲。有的杯底設計有磁石

瘋－－沒事，我沒有醉。

與金屬托盤緊接，讓興奮熱鬧的當場不致打翻好

最近在臺北，被大夥擁進聽說競爭得十分

酒。也有把杯腳造成超長、方便隔岸好友也能禮

激烈的夜店戰區。近日流行一價暢飲，業者紛紛

貌的碰碰杯－－無論用的是哪一款酒杯，碰杯然

推出了買一門票喝到底喝到飽也應該喝到醉的服

後一喝而盡之前，得開開心心說 cheers 或者 bon

務，暢飲價是基本的臺幣三佰元到頂級的臺幣九

sante！

佰元不等，從雞尾調酒到紅酒白酒氣泡酒，從啤

白酒杯材質多以玻璃或瓷器為主，你可以

酒到威士忌都這樣無節制喝個痛快。並沒有因此

通過瓷器感受它的溫潤，也可以透過玻璃欣賞它

而破戒亂喝的我乖乖一旁看熱鬧，最不爽的是標

的純凈質地與色澤。白酒令人生畏的酒精度決定

榜暢飲的店家為省麻煩，竟以便宜塑膠杯侍酒！

了它的容量不可能太大，這種適合凈飲的烈酒富

非酒徒如我也知道酒與酒杯的親密關係。

含同樣濃烈的香氣，一杯下肚從燃燒到回甘，最

酒鬼之所以被稱作酒鬼，可能就是他或者她早就破壞了自己的形象，拿起一整瓶或紅或白骨

綿長的幽香總是留給那些敢於挑戰的人，杯起杯落，這充滿了中國式幹杯的熱烈情懷。

碌骨碌喝喝喝，不，那叫灌，完全戲劇化的以醉 MOUTAI Magazine

HARMONY 和

Drinking Intellectually Column 文字飲專欄

Miserable Confidant Maspero 悲情知己馬伯樂 TEXT/ 文：Dong Tiezhu 董鐵柱 TRANSLATION/ 譯：Grace Liu

Henri Maspero (1883-1945) is known as prominent French sinologist. His works are abundant, and cover a wide range. Maspero made great contributions to the Chinese history, society, religion, and folkmyth, as well as literary and philosophical development. Pelliot called him "a great intellect in history of ancient China".

亨利·馬伯樂（Henri Maspero，1883— 1945），法國著名的中國學家，一生著述甚豐，涉及領域極廣，對早期中國歷史中社會和政治制度、宗教信仰和神話以及文學和哲學學派發展的每個方面，多有獨到見解，伯希和稱之為“古代中國史的奇才”。

MOUTAI Magazine

arch, 1945, Weimar Germany In Buchenwald concentration camp, an old man's life was draining away. His body was weak but still full of beans, in spite of suffering a variety of torture. In the camp, eastern religions provided comfort for him to face death in the rest of his life. Either March 15th or 17th, no one knows exactly what day he was gone, but everyone believes he left peacefully. That is him, famous French sinologist Henri Maspero. Maspero is an old friend of the Chinese people from any perspective. It is found that Baidu encyclopaedia contains much more information about Maspero than Wikipedia. Apparently, Maspero is a sinologist in the eyes of the French people, but for the Chinese, he is a friend from afar. In China, it is always the sad ending to a story of confidant, like Bo Ya and Zi Qi. And it seemed to be the tragic ending for Maspero and Chinese culture in the camp during the war years. Maspero experienced hard time in his late years. He was interned due to his son's participation in German resistance to Nazism less than one month before the camp was liberated, and he died in the camp three weeks before the US military forces arrived in Weimar. If perhaps Maspero and Chinese culture might meet again after the war. Maspero was a great Taoism. He believed in faith. Taoism provided him the strength and made him face the reality, and he received more from Chinese culture. Maspero was born to be a scholar in a scholarly family. His father Gaston Maspero was a French Egyptologist. Due to the limited information at that time, western scholars who were interested in the Far East, were somewhat similar to Gu Yanwu and his fellows in late Ming and early Qing dynasties. The emphasis is not only reading, but also travelling for thousands of miles. Maspero had the opportunities to travel to the east in his early ages since his father was

living in Egypt and his brother was living in Indochina. He arrived in China in the winter of 1908. In that year, China's last Emperor, Puyi, ascended the throne after Empress Dowager Cixi and Emperor Guangxu died. The French young scholar for the first time felt the charm of Chinese culture even when the Chinese culture was under question at that time. He insisted on defending the Chinese culture while the sound of "Down with Confucius and sons" was all around. In the thirty years since then, the Chinese traditional culture became part of his life and accompanied him for the rest of his life. It is such a precious experience to learn Chinese culture during the war. Matteo Ricci, whom represented the early European sinologist, came to china to preach in Ming Dynasty; John King Fairbank, was an American sinologist learning about China's foreign relations from the Cold War after World War II, and Maspero learned Sinology from his own interests at the time when Chinese culture had lost the aura a hundred years ago. Since the French Revolution, not only Voltaire but also Tocqueville was seeking the future of France, and they tried to find the answers from Chinese culture. For Maspero, he kept his belief and closely examined Chinese religion and dialect, as well as Chinese history and art. Taoism is the life guide for Maspero, and Chuang Tzu is his favourite Chinese philosopher. He believes that Taoism is one of the world's most wonderful religions. Seemingly, Taoism believes that the followers could pursue longevity and immortality. In reality, however, Taoism advocates a positive and unworldly attitude towards life. In the history, Taoism indeed may collude to power and political power, desire and struggle for more interests sometimes. For Maspero, the central concept in Taoism asserts that one must place their will in harmony with the natural universe, and this is the same as what Chuang Tzu pursues. When Maspero found the unity

1945 年 3 月，德國魏瑪。

打倒孔家店的吆喝聲中，在歐羅巴大地上擎起了

布琛瓦爾德集中營內，一位年過花甲的老人

捍衛中國文化的大旗；而在此後的三十多年中，

已經生命垂危。在受盡了各種折磨之後，誰都看

中國的傳統文化慢慢融入了他的血液，成為了他

得出他形如朽木，但精神狀態卻一直好得出奇。

生命的一部分。

在集中營裏，陪伴著他走完生命的最後一程，讓

這樣在亂世中的相識相知，才顯得難能可

他泰然面對死亡的，是來自於東方的宗教。也許

貴。如果說明朝以來以利瑪竇為代表的早期歐洲

是 3 月 15 號，也許是 17 號，誰也不知道他究竟

漢學家來到中國是為了傳教，而二戰以後以費正

是在哪一天閉上了眼睛，不過每個人都相信，他

清為代表的美國漢學家研究中國是因為冷戰的需

走得很安詳。他就是法國著名的漢學家馬伯樂。

要，那麽在中國土地已經被列強踐踏中國文化已

從任何角度來看，馬伯樂都是中國人民的

經失卻光環的一百年前，馬伯樂對漢學的興趣，

老朋友。盡管這個稱謂難免有些俗套，可是如果

無疑出自於自己的興趣。自 18 世紀法國革命以

你百度 Henri Maspero，就會發現百度百科中的

來，法國的路究竟應該如何走，伏爾泰疑惑過，

馬伯樂詞條內容，遠遠比英文版的維基百科中

托克維爾質問過……他們在探索法國的未來時，

Henri Maspero 的要豐富。很顯然，在法國人眼

也一直希望在中國文化中尋找答案。從中國的宗

中只不過是一位漢學家的馬伯樂，對於中國人來

教到方言，從中國的歷史到藝術，馬伯樂尋找的

說，是一位來自遠方的知己。

也許不僅是法國未來的方向，更是他自己的人生

在中國，關於知己的故事，向來都必須有一

of nature and humanity, a potentially harmful interference is to be avoided, and in this way goals can be achieved effortlessly. Taoism is the prescription for the general public and Taoist is the prescription for himself because religion is usually the stimulants for the general public but Chuang Tzu is the spiritual mentor for him. Maspero succeeded Chavannes in the Chair of Chinese at the College de France, and then became the prominent sinologist in French and throughout the world, till he was arrested by Nazi army. He remained composed in both praise and adversity. In the Chinese culture, Maspero, the French old friend of Chinese is a warrior. In late Qing and early Republic period, who is the confidant of Chinese culture? Maspero, the one lived in the concentration camp gave us the best answer.

信條。

見如故的開始和催人淚下的結局，就好像伯牙、

道教就是馬伯樂的人生指南，而莊子則是他

子期那般。集中營裏的作別，無疑是馬伯樂和中

最喜歡的中國哲學家。他認為道家是“世界上最

國文化這對在戰亂中結識的知己可能擁有的最悲

奇妙的宗教之一”。表面上看，道教是一個“引導

情的句號。用中國話來說，馬伯樂的晚年有些

信仰者以追求長生和不死為目標的尋求個人解脫

“失時”，也就是在時機上走了霉運。當他因為兒

的宗教”，但事實上，在追求長生的過程中，道

子參與反納粹活動而被捕時，距離巴黎解放僅不

教給人以安慰，讓人學會超脫。歷史中的道教

到一個月的時間；而當他在集中營過世時，距離

的確也會為了權勢和政權勾結，並且為了利益道

美軍抵達魏瑪也只有不到一個月的時間。如果有

教之間也有著無窮無盡的鬥爭，但是在馬伯樂看

如果，也許馬伯樂和中國文化還可能劫後重逢。

來，道教的精髓在於通過養身行善，達到物我兩

不過對於熟諳道家文化的馬伯樂來說， “知

忘的神秘境界，這與莊子追求精神逍遙的思想並

其不可奈何而安之若命”是他最為自然的選擇。

無不同。當馬伯樂把道家和道教合二為一的時

既然時運不濟，那麽就坦然地面對。道家思想給

候，他已經找到了一劑可謂包治百病的良方：道

予他的力量，可能是年輕時的馬伯樂在初遇中國

教是給民眾的藥方而道家是給他自己的，因為宗

文化時並沒有料想到的。

教總是大眾的興奮劑而莊子則是個人心靈的最佳

出生於書香世家的馬伯樂註定是一個學者，

導師。

其父親加斯頓·馬伯樂是負有盛名的學者，專攻

這一劑良藥讓馬伯樂成為了法蘭西學院中國

埃及文化。由於資料有限，彼時對東方感興趣的

語言和文學講座之主講，成為了法國乃至整個世

西方學者，和明末清初的顧炎武們有幾分相似，

界的著名漢學家，一直到被納粹軍隊逮捕為止。

講究的不僅是讀萬卷書，更是要行萬裏路。有

在贊譽中，他寵辱不驚；而身處縲紲，他也依然

一位長時間在埃及的父親和在印度支那任職的

灑脫不羈。蕭紅曾經寫過一個長篇《馬伯樂》，裏

兄長，馬伯樂很早就有遊歷東方的機會，而他和

面的主人公馬伯樂是個土生土長的中國人，是一

中國的第一次親密接觸，則是在 1908 年的冬天。

個膽小鬼。而中國文化的老朋友法國人馬伯樂，

那是一個風雨飄搖的冬天，光緒帝和慈禧太後相

卻是一個散淡的勇士。清末民初，究竟誰才是中

繼去世，末代皇帝溥儀登基。在中國文化業已飽

國文化的知己，集中營裏的馬伯樂給了我們最好

受內部質疑之際，這個來自法國的青年第一次真

的答案。

切感受到中國文化的魅力，並且在中原大地一片 MOUTAI Magazine

HARMONY 和

Yuan Renguo, Chairman of Moutai Group delivered a speech in the Liquor Tasting Activity held in Brussels, Belgium. 在比利時首都布魯塞爾舉行的白酒品鑒會上，茅台集團公司及貴州茅台酒股份有限公司董事長袁仁國出席盛會致辭

MOUTAI Magazine

Moutai Won Gold Medal in Concours Mondial Spirits Selection In the 2014 Concours Mondial de Bruxelles (CMB) Spirits Selection, a total of 625 sample spirits from over 80 countries and regions competed in the contest. 9 sample spirits from Mainland China and 11 sample spirits from Taiwan participated in the contest. Kweichow Moutai stood out from various spirits, gained universal acclaim from judges, and won the top prize again in the international contest. This is Moutai's another world-class honour in just two years after winning the gold prize in the 9th World Spirits Award of 2012. Founded in 1994, the annual contest is among the international spirits contests with the largest scale, maximum participants and authoritative judges, as well as respected appraisement mechanism. It is honoured as the "World Spirits Olympics". It is reported that the 2015 CMB Spirits Selection will be held in China's Guiyang City. As the main sponsor for this contest, Moutai will demonstrate the unique charm of Chinese liquor to the professional tasters and the spirits industry of the world.

'Protected Geographical Indication Product', and one of China's First Intangible Cultural Heritages." Upon the 43rd anniversary of Sino-Belgian diplomacy, after President Xi Jinping brought the "national treasure" giant panda for the Belgian people on March 30 this year, Mr. Yuan Renguo, Chairman of Moutai Group brought another "national treasure", Moutai liquor for Belgian people. Over 300 chateau owners and professional appraisers from around the world, Brussels mayor, director of the Brussels Tourism Bureau, and other guests attended the activity, and listened to Mr. Yuan Renguo's publicity and promotion for Chinese liquor culture and Moutai liquor culture. Mr. Liao Liqiang said, "with the deepening of exchanges between the two people, the friendship between the two people is getting mellower and profounder, just like China's Moutai liquor."

茅台獲布魯塞爾國際烈酒大賽金獎在今年的布魯塞爾國際烈酒大賽上，共有來自 80 多個國家和地區的 625 瓶樣酒參賽，中國大陸的 9 瓶樣酒以及臺灣地區 11 瓶樣酒代表中國參賽，貴州茅台脫穎而出，受到了評委的一致好評，再次在國際賽事中獨佔鰲頭。這是貴州茅台自 2012 年第九屆世界烈酒大賽獲得金獎後，在短短的兩年時間內再度榮獲世界級殊榮。比利時布魯塞爾國際烈性酒大獎賽創辦於 1994 年 4 月，每年舉辦一次，是目前全球規模最大、參賽廠商最多、評審機制最科學公正、擁有權威評酒大師最多的國際酒類比賽之一，被譽為“世界烈酒奧運會”。據悉，明年的布魯塞爾國際烈性酒大獎賽將在中國內地城市貴陽舉辦，國酒茅台作為該次烈性酒大獎賽的贊助方，將向來自世界各國

Liao Liqiang (Left) met with Yuan Renguo (Right) 中國駐比利時大使廖力強（左）親切會見茅台集團公司及貴州茅台酒股份有限公司董事長袁仁國（右）

茅台為比利時再添“國寶”

的品鑒專家和從業者展現中國白酒的獨特魅力。 5 月 3 日，貴陽文化推介會暨白酒品鑒會在比利時首都布魯塞爾舉行。布魯塞爾國際烈性酒大獎賽主席卜杜安哈弗先生，中國駐比利時大使廖力強，茅台集團董事長袁仁國，貴陽市副市長李作勳等分別

Moutai Is Another "National Treasure" Brought to Belgium

致辭。

On May 3, the Guiyang Culture Promotion and Liquor Tasting Activity was held in Brussels, Belgium. Mr. Baudouin Havaux, Chairman of Concours Mondial de Bruxelles (CMB), Liao Liqiang, Chinese Ambassador to Belgium, Yuan Renguo, Chairman of Moutai Group and Li Zuoxun, vice-mayor of Guiyang City delivered their speeches. Mr. Yuan Renguo, Chairman of Moutai Group introduced: "Boasting a long history, Chinese liquor is China's fifth great invention that is full of creative wisdom and cultural charm, a special symbol of Chinese charm, and an important heritage of China's thousands of years' civilization. As a precious cultural heritage and liquid treasure of the Chinese nation, Kweichow Moutai liquor is the only healthy drink in China's liquor industry to boast 'Green Food', 'Organic Food',

符號，是中國數千年燦爛文明的重要遺產。貴州茅台酒是中華民族寶

茅台集團董事長袁仁國介紹：“中國白酒源遠流長，是中華民族第五大充滿創造智慧與文化神韻的發明，是一個充滿中國神韻的特殊貴的文化遺產和液體瑰寶，是中國白酒行業唯一集綠色食品、有機食品和國家地理標誌產品、中國首批非物質文化遺產于一身的健康飲品。” 在中比建交 43 年之際，國家主席習近平為比利時人民帶來了“國寶”大熊貓後，今天，茅台集團董事長袁仁國又為比利時人民送來了“國寶”茅台酒。來自世界各國的 300 多位酒莊莊主、專業評酒師、布魯塞爾市長、旅遊局長等嘉賓出席品鑒會，聽取了袁仁國對中國白酒文化、茅台酒文化的宣傳推介。中國駐比利時大使廖力強說：“隨著兩國人民的交往不斷加深，中比兩國人民的友誼就像中國茅台酒一樣愈發醇香、厚重。”

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HARMONY 和

Phoenix Satellite TV Reporter Interviewed Yuan Renguo

鳳凰衛視駐歐洲記者在巴黎專訪袁仁國

Phoenix Satellite TV Reporter Interviewed Yuan Renguo To commemorate the 50th anniversary for the establishment of SinoFrench diplomatic relations, the Phoenix CNE channel (Europe) will launch a special series program "China-France 50 Years". The program mainly includes reports and interviews about the activities concerning the 50th anniversary for the establishment of Sino-French diplomatic relations, and demonstrates the friendship between Chinese and French people over the past 50 years, as well as important moments and periods for the development of Sino-French relations. On May 7, Mr. Yuan Renguo, Chairman of Moutai Group, was interviewed by the reporter of the Phoenix CNE channel in Paris. Concerning the issues such as the communion between Moutai culture and European culture, and how to expand the European market for Moutai liquor, Yuan Renguo had a wide-ranging conversation with Phoenix TV's reporter Liu Yi. Yuan Renguo said, China Moutai and French Cognac have an amazing similarity. Both are the finest spirits from amazing producing areas. Surprisingly, both are from the southwest of their respective countries, and the two cities each have a thousand-year-long liquor river -- Chishui River and Charente River. They are like twin brothers remote and present two finest spirits to the world. These two cities are the best interpretation for the philosophy of favourable climatic, geographical, and human conditions. As a model for the cooperation between Chinese and French spirits enterprises, since 2004, Moutai and Camus from France Cognac

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have established a strategic partnership to jointly promote Moutai and Cognac. Yuan Renguo hoped to further deepen the cooperation between Chinese and French spirits enterprises, and hoped that the profound friendship between the two people would be mellower and mellower, just like Moutai liquor.

鳳凰衛視駐歐洲記者專訪袁仁國為紀念中法建交 50 周年，鳳凰衛視歐洲台將推出特別系列節目《中國法國五十年》，節目以中法建交 50 周年的活動報導及人物專訪為主，展現中法兩國人民 50 年來相互交融的友好關係，以及半個世紀以來中法關係發展的重要時刻和階段。茅台集團公司董事長袁仁國於 5 月 7 日在法國巴黎接受香港鳳凰衛視駐歐洲記者專訪，並就茅台文化與歐洲文化共融、如何在歐洲拓展茅台酒的市場等方面與鳳凰衛視記者柳怡進行了交流。袁仁國說，中國的茅台與法國的幹邑有著驚人的相似度，他們都是酒中精品，都有著神奇的產區，令人驚奇的是這兩種美酒都出自各自國家的西南，而且這兩個城市都各自有一條千年流淌的美酒河—— 赤水河與夏朗特河。它們像天各一方的孿生兄弟，為人類奉獻了兩款佳釀，天時地利人和的哲理在這兩個城市中得到最好的詮釋。作為中法釀酒企業合作的典範，從 2004 年起，茅台與來自法國幹邑的卡慕公司結為了戰略合作夥伴，在全球攜手推廣茅台和幹邑。袁仁國希望，中法酒企之間繼續加深合作，願中法兩國人民的深情友誼像茅台酒一樣越久越醇香。

Moutai Presented in the CICA Summit Banquet On May 20, 2014, the fourth summit of the Conference on Interaction and Confidence-Building Measures in Asia (CICA) was started in Shanghai China. In total, leaders, directors, and delegates from 46 countries and international organizations, including 11 heads of state, 1 head of government, and 10 international organization directors, attended this summit. This was the largest conference since the establishment of CICA. On the opening day, President Xi Jinping and his wife hosted a national banquet to welcome the distinguished guests. In the banquet menu exposed by media, the cuisines for this summit included a cold dish, six hot dishes, snacks, and fruit. The wine list included liquor and wine. Moutai liquor was the only liquor of the banquet. Besides, it was reported that the 30-year-old Millesimes Moutai liquor was presented as national gift to the heads of various countries. As China's reputed name card, the national liquor Moutai shone once again and was favoured by the heads of various countries in diplomatic activities.

贈送給俄羅斯的國禮 China's national gift presented to Russia

國酒茅台亮相亞信峰會國宴 2014 年 5 月 20 日，亞洲相互協作與信任措施會議第四次峰會在中國上海啟幕。此次峰會共有 46 個國家和國際組織領導人、負責人或代表與會，其中包括 11 位國家元首、1 位政府首腦及 10 位國際組織負責人，是亞信自成立以來規模最大的一次會議。開幕當天，國家主席習近平偕夫人設國宴歡迎貴賓，從媒體曝光的宴會菜單來看，本次峰會菜肴包括一道冷盤、六道熱菜以及點心、水果。酒單包括白酒、紅酒等，其中茅台酒是宴會上唯一的白酒。據悉，除宴會白酒選用茅台外，送給各國元首的禮物也是 30 年陳年茅台酒。國酒茅台作為一張飄香的國家名片，再一次大放異彩，在外交活動中受到各國元首的青睞。

贈送給哈薩克斯坦的國禮 China's national gift presented to Kazakhstan

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China Moutai Sponsored the "China Soiree" Horse Racing in Paris' Vincennes With a history of over 150 years, the French light horse racing is recognised as the best horse racing around the world. On June 27, 2014, the "China Soiree" horse racing was held in Paris' Vincennes Hippodrome. About 300 guests, including Philippe Germond, French Chairman of the Sino-French Horse Racing Cooperation Committee, Dominique de Bellaigue, Chairman of the French Light Horse Association, Bertrand Bélinguier, Chairman of the French Speedy Horse Association, Li Shaoping, Cultural Counsellor of the Chinese Embassy in France, and representatives of the French Chinese community, were invited to attend the activity. As the sponsor of this activity, one of the activities for celebrating the 50th anniversary of Sino-French diplomatic relations, China Moutai fully participated in the entire activity. At the end of the

茅國酒茅台贊助巴黎萬森“中國之夜”賽馬活動法國的輕駕馬比賽已有 150 年的歷史，是全世界公認最好的賽馬比賽。2014 年 6 月 27 日，巴黎萬森賽馬會“ 中國之夜” 活動在巴黎市郊的萬森賽馬場隆重舉行。法國中法賽馬合作指導委員會主席 Philippe Germond、法國輕駕馬聯合會主席 Dominique de Bellaigue、法國速度馬聯合會主席 Bertrand Bélinguier、中國駐法大使館文化參贊李少平等使館領導、法國僑界社團代表及中法友人近 300 人應邀參加了當天的活動。作為慶祝中法建交 50 周年活動之一，國酒茅台作為贊助商全程參與了本次活動。賽會結束之後，茅台在宴會廳舉行了大型茅台雞尾酒會，用茅台酒調製的多款時尚雞尾酒獲得了嘉賓的交口稱讚。中國駐法大使館文化參贊李少平品嘗茅台酒後，稱讚其不愧為中國的國酒，並感謝國酒茅台圍繞中法建交 50 周年所做的一系列文化推廣活動，稱茅台酒作為外交酒為中法兩國人民之間的友誼做出了不可磨滅的貢獻，祝願茅台酒的國際化道路越來越好。（貴州茅台酒進出口有限責任公司供稿）

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racing, Moutai held a large cocktail party at the banquet hall. Various fashionable cocktails made of Moutai liquor were highly praised by the guests. After tasting the Moutai liquor, Mr. Li Shaoping, Cultural Counsellor of the Chinese Embassy in France, praised Moutai as China's well-deserved national liquor, and thanked Moutai for holding various cultural promotion activities related to the 50th anniversary of Sino-French diplomatic relations. He said, as the diplomatic liquor, Moutai liquor has made indelible contribution to the friendship between the Chinese and French people; he also wished Moutai to have a better and better prospect in the international market. (This report is contributed by Guizhou Moutai Chiew I/E Co.,Ltd.)

Moutai Renowned in Paris' Chinese Food Week

shouting "Gan Bei (cheers)".(Contributed by Jiangyue Wang/Cammy France)

From June 2 to 8, the first Chinese Food Week sponsored by Kweichow Moutai and organised by the Association of Juvenile Chinese in France (AJCF) had been successfully held in Paris. With the theme of "Find Real Chinese Food", this event aims to invite French participants to taste the "authentic" Chinese cuisine in different Chinese restaurants in Paris, and experience the unique Chinese food culture. This Chinese Food Week selected seven Chinese restaurants in Paris, including Cantonese cuisine, Hunan cuisine, Jiangsu cuisine, Sichuan cuisine, Shandong cuisine, Zhejiang cuisine, and Xinjiang cuisine. With one restaurant each night, the food experts introduced the characteristic and history of different regional cuisines to more than 300 gastronomes, and recommended the delicious specialty of each restaurant. The French citizens could participate in this event which named "seven days, seven restaurants, seven ways to experience Chinese food" via online application. According to accounts, as the sponsor of this Chinese Food Week, Kweichow Moutai provided the mellow Moutai liquor especially for this event, and prepared a variety of cocktails as well, aiming to fill this Chinese food tasting journey with the unique aroma of China's national liquor. In this event, French participants were under an impressive journey that they would never forget, and could not help

茅台酒香溢巴黎中國美食周 6 月 2 日至 8 日，由貴州茅台贊助的首屆中國美食周于巴黎成功舉行，活動由法國華裔青年協會等主辦，主題為“發現真正的中餐”，旨在讓法國食客在不同菜系的巴黎中餐館中品嘗真正的中國地方菜，體驗獨具特色的華夏美食文化。本屆美食周精選位於巴黎的 7 家中餐館，包括粵菜、湘菜、蘇菜、川菜、魯菜、浙菜及新疆菜 7 大菜系，每晚於其中一家舉辦活動，由美食專家向 300 余位美食愛好者介紹不同地域菜肴的特點及歷史，並推薦餐館特色佳餚。法國公眾通過網上報名的方式參與了這場名為“七天、七家餐館、七種方式探尋中國美食”的奇妙之旅。據瞭解，作為今年美食周的贊助商，貴州茅台特地為本次活動提供了醇香馥鬱的茅台酒，並精心調配了多款茅台雞尾酒，讓中國菜的品嘗之旅飄溢著中國國酒的獨特芳香，活動現場法國食客流連忘返，情不自禁地喊出 Gan Bei（乾杯）。（貴州茅台法国公司供稿）

http://www.chinamoutai.fr/

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Kweichow Moutai Listed in Forbes Global 2000 According to the Forbes Global 2000 List released on May 8th, 2014, with sales revenue of 4.6 billion (2013, USD), profits of 2.5 billion, assets of 9.2 billion, and market value of 27.2 billion, Kweichow Moutai ranks 875 in the complete list, ranks 55 among Chinese companies, and ranks first among Chinese liquor companies. Two other Chinese liquor companies are also in the list, with Wuliangye Yibin ranking 1221 and Jiangsu Yanghe Brewery ranking 1383.

貴州茅台入選福布斯全球 2000 強企業榜單世界著名財經雜誌《福布斯》5 月 8 日發佈全球 2000 強企業榜單，貴州茅台酒股份有限公司以 2013 年銷售額 46 億美元，利潤 25 億美元，資產 92 億美元，市值 272 億美元入選，排名榜單第 875 位，並在中國上榜企業中列 55 位，在中國酒類上榜企業中排在首位。在上榜的另外兩家中國白酒企業中，五糧液排名第 1221 位，洋河股份排名第 1383 位。

露黛尼 2011 干紅

Médoc 2011 of Moutai's Chateau Loudenne Won Gold Medal in Aquitaine Wine Contest In May 2014, the 58th Aquitaine Wine Contest (Concours de Bordeaux Vins d'Aquitaine) was held in Bordeaux. Began in 1956 and organised by the Gironde Agriculture Committee, the Bordeaux Aquitaine Wine Contest, one of the top four international wine contests, boasts the legitimacy recognised by both government and industry, certification recognized by ISO 9000, and the most demanding appraisement in the world. In this contest with over 1,000 discerning appraisers, Médoc 2011 of Chateau Loudenne, with its excellent quality, won the gold medal. In fact, back in one of the most professional media, the "TASTED" magazine had given Loudenne Médoc 2011 a high overall score of 88.5 points. 2014 is a glorious year for Moutai's French Château Loudenne, also named "pink château". Just in April, Château Loudenne was given many honours by magazines and contests in the wine industry.

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茅台海瑪酒莊露黛尼 2011 幹紅攬獲阿基坦葡萄酒競賽金獎 2014 年 5 月，第 58 屆阿基坦葡萄酒競賽在波爾多舉辦。始於 1956 年，由吉倫特省農業委員會組織舉辦的波爾多阿基坦葡萄酒大賽擁有政府及行業組織認可的合法性，其組織認證得到了 ISO 9000 的認可，該賽事評選的苛刻性幾乎為全球之最，是四大葡萄酒賽事之一。在超過 1000 位品酒師的挑剔眼光中，海瑪酒莊露黛尼幹紅 2011，憑藉其卓越的品質，榮獲金獎。事實上，海瑪酒莊露黛尼幹紅 2011 早在世界葡萄酒最專業的品酒媒體之一“TASTED 專業品酒報”上就獲得綜合評分 88.5 分的好成績。據悉，2014 年，對“粉紅城堡”茅台法國海瑪酒莊而言，是一段大獎不斷的時期。僅僅 4 月份，海瑪酒莊就得到行業雜誌和賽事的多項殊榮。