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t UK & IREL AND
t NORTH AMERICA
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TRADE. CULTURE. EDUCATION.
t UK & IREL AND
t NORTH AMERICA
HAIR. NAILS. BEAUT Y.
t NORTH AMERICA
t UK & IREL AND
t UK & IREL AND
HAIR. NAILS. BEAUT Y.
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HAIR. NAILS. BEAUTY.
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PAT 'PATMAN' RYAN
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TRADE. BUSINESS. EDUCATION. CULTURE.
£5
BRIDEY JO BRODIE RAESIDE BRISLINGTON HILL BARBERS
KEViN LUCHMUN
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£5
MR EDDIE BARBER
t NORTH AMERICA
TRADE. BUSINESS. EDUCATION. CULTURE.
FROM ANDIS MICHELLE O’CONNOR
Kevin Luchmun
JENNY BUI CHRYSTOFER BENSON TAYLOR LEVEN
$10
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THE POWER OF BOND SCIENCE VICTORIA LYNCH ANITA LAWRENCE SALON BRUNO MARC
$10
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GEORGE SMITH RYAN LEWIS COVE 17 BROSH
$10
t NORTH AMERICA
£5
KIRBY BLYTHE
| M A Y / J U N E 2 0 2 1 // I S S U E # T H R E E
KEViN LUCHMUN
BLACC + BLOND KERI BLUE
| J U LY/A U G U S T 2 0 2 3 // I S S U E # T H I R T Y N I N E
DIONNE SMITH BUTCHERS SALON
FROM ANDIS
FROM ANDIS
| F E B R U A R Y/ M A R C H 2 0 2 0 // I S S U E T W E L V E
$10
Crazy Color
MARK LEESON VERITY CLARKE
| N O V / D E C 2 0 2 3 // I S S U E # E I G H T E E N
ICONS
JACQUI MCINTOSH KEYA NEAL
SOPHIA HILTON
| J U N E / J U LY 2 0 2 2 // I S S U E # F O U R T E E N
$10
JOHN MORONEY JAN ARNOLD
FLUID VOL.3 | J U N E / J U LY 2 0 2 2 // I S S U E # T W E N T Y F I V E
TITLE TOWN BARBERSHOP CORINA REYES
R+CO BLEU
| M A Y / J U N E 2 0 2 2 // I S S U E # T H I R T Y T W O
HE BARBER
£ 5 //€ 6
GARREN
FLUID VOL.3 | S E P T / O C T 2 0 2 3 // I S S U E # S E V E N T E E N
GOODLIFE BARBERSHOP JOTH DAVIES
JOHN CARMONA
| A U G / S E P T 2 0 2 3 // I S S U E # T W E N T Y O N E
RUGE R BARBER
JOSH O'MEARA-PATEL RUM BARBER
A U G U S T / S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 9 // I S S U E # N I N E
N O V / D E C 2 0 1 9 // I S S U E E I G H T E E N
LAUREN MILNER
FLUID VOL.3
Anne Veck
PENELOPE CHESHIRE ENA SALON IMOGEN FOX DANIELLE KEASLING
£5
UK & IREL AND u
MÜHLE KEVIN VORLEY RAG AND BONE JOHNNY BABA
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HiGH ROllERS
£5
HAYDEN CASSIDY TAYLOR LEVEN BRANDI LASHAY
CARLIE CARDLE MARK MACIVER FELLOWSHIP LUNCHEON & HAIR AWARDS
$10
PETER HEALY
PrOjECT RuGeR MEn
£5 £5
CH iC o BOOM
ASSYRIA GINDO RODRICK SAMUELS DR TYE AND COURTNEY CALDWELL HOUSE OF HANDSOME
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KERI BLUE DON QUINN ASHTON JOSEPH
£5
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RICHARD ASHFORTH JAKE NUGENT KOOP STUDIO TIM SCOTT WRIGHT
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t NORTH AMERICA
VERITY CLARKE SARA HILL ZOË REES AND SHEREE THOMPSON JANE WURWAND
PROJECT: MEN CIARA MADDEN PARLOUS BARBERS SAM BENTHAM
£5
CHARLES GRAY
JOHN MORONEY JAN ARNOLD
ICONS
$10
$10
NOMAD BARBER
SKYLER LONDON ROBERT EATON
RICHIE FINNEY
NOT ANOTHER SALON
C ApTA iN
BLUE TIT SALONS ALFREDO LEWIS
HAIR. NAILS. BEAUT Y.
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TAYLOR LEVEN
ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION
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ROBERT EATON NICK IRWIN
TRADE. BUSINESS. EDUCATION. CULTURE.
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HAIR. NAILS. BEAUT Y.
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OLAPLEX
HAIRDREAMS BY MICHAEL BOYCHUCK
PAT REGAN
DRE DA BARBER TINA SAPIA
V’S BARBERSHOP
t NORTH AMERICA
$10
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FELLA HAIR
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TRADE. BUSINESS. EDUCATION. CULTURE.
£5
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Life in Colour
THE ROOTS FOUNDATION
JAZZMAN GROOVES BARBERSHOP
£5
TRADE. BUSINESS. EDUCATION. CULTURE.
t UK & IRELAND
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LAN NGUYENGREALIS SYD HAYES
£5
Cos Sakkas
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VAN DA GOAT
NICOLE RENAE
£5
ANDY AUTHENTIC
t NORTH AMERICA
$10
t UK & IREL AND
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$10
t NORTH AMERICA
HAIR. NAILS. BEAUT Y.
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CHRISTOPHER AARON JAN ARNOLD TOM BACHIK
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Winter Wonder
$10
KRISTI FAULKNER
WAHL BARBERSHOP OF THE YEAR 2021
£5
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PAPI BLENDZZ LOS CUT IT
TERRANCE PRATT
LUIGI DI GIROLAMO CHAPS & CO
AlMARaz
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SHAW TIMES RUM BARBER
ANDREA RAYMOND OCTANE HAIRDRESSING FOR MEN
GlEesON
COLIN PETRIE
KEVIN VORLEY
SAM WATSON MCKENZIE TURLEY
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£5
NAOMI YASUDA
Ulta Beauty EVOlution
SHALLYNN JOHNSTON
SAM VILLA
SABRA CLARK ALFREDO LEWIS
$10
Timothy Cabell.
MICHELLE SULTAN
VIKI JOHNSON THE CHAPEL KAYLEIGH DANIELLE JOHNSON
$10
F.A.M.E. Team
MICKEY COLON JR
LARA KAY
Danielle Keasling
JOCELYN EMERSON
£5
$10
JOICO DAN SPILLER
KELLY SHONE-ADAMS MICHELLE GRIFFIN STEPHEN HOPPER
MICHAELA PHILLIPS
| S E P T / O C T 2 0 2 2 // I S S U E # E L E V E N
$10
PA RlOUS BARBERS
| A P R / M A Y 2 0 2 3 // I S S U E # N I N E T E E N
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| M A Y/ J U N E 2 0 2 3 // I S S U E # F I F T E E N
RUM BARBER
| J U N E / J U LY 2 0 2 3 // I S S U E # T W E N T Y
PER EDITION PER EDITION PER EDITION KeNn Y dUNCaN
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$10
t NORTH AMERICA
MIA SECRET
$15.00 $12.50 $10.00
RODRICK SAMUELS
£5
DMITRY POTAPOV
| D E C 2 0 2 2 / J A N 2 0 2 3 // I S S U E # S E V E N T E E N
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BI-MONTHLY SUBSCRIPTION Ac-id t UK & IREL AND
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| O C T / N O V 2 0 2 2 // I S S U E # S I X T E E N
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£5
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| D E C 2 0 2 1 / J A N 2 0 2 2 // I S S U E # T W E N T Y T W O
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t UK & IREL AND
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| A U G / S E P T 2 0 2 3 // I S S U E # T H I R T Y T W O
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$10
| A P R I L / M A Y 2 0 2 3 // I S S U E # T H I R T Y
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$10
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| M A Y/ J U N E 2 0 2 3 // I S S U E # T H I R T Y E I G H T
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| M A R / A P R 2 0 2 3 // I S S U E # T H I R T Y S E V E N
TRADE. BUSINESS. EDUCATION. CULTURE.
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FRUITS HAIR LAB
$10
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DAMIEN CARNEY
RODRICK SAMUELS
| J A N / F E B 2 0 2 3 // I S S U E # T H I R T E E N
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£5
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HAIR. NAILS. BEAUT Y.
$10
| A P R I L / M A Y 2 0 2 1 // I S S U E # E I G H T E E N
JACOB KHAN
| N O V / D E C 2 0 2 1 // I S S U E # T W E N T Y N I N E
DANIEL KANER KEITH BRYCE
KEYA NEAL
| D E C 2 0 2 3 / J A N 2 0 2 4 // I S S U E # T W E N T Y T H R E E
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RYAN WEEDEN TAMARA DI LULLO
| F E B R U A R Y/ M A R C H 2 0 2 2 // I S S U E # T W E N T Y T H R E E
PEKELA RILEY
| A U G U S T/ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 1 // I S S U E # N I N E
JACQUI MCINTOSH
Color Space
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JOHN MORONEY
| D E C 2 0 2 3 / J A N 2 0 2 4 // I S S U E # T W E N T Y T H R E E
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| A U G / S E P T 2 0 2 3 // I S S U E # T W E N T Y O N E
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| J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 1 // I S S U E # O N E
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| J U LY/A U G U S T 2 0 2 2 // I S S U E # T H I R T Y T H R E E
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t NORTH AMERICA
HAIR. NAILS. BEAUT Y.
£5
t UK & IREL AND
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ANNA MANUKYAN HAYDEN CASSIDY
HAIR. NAILS. BEAUT Y.
| J U LY/ A U G U S T 2 0 2 2 // I S S U E # T E N
HAIR. NAILS. BEAUT Y.
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| F E B / M A R 2 0 2 3 // I S S U E # E I G H T E E N
DANNY ROBINSON
$10
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| J U N E / J U LY 2 0 2 3 // I S S U E # T H I R T Y O N E
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BYRD MENA HAYDEN CASSIDY
| S E P T / O C T 2 0 2 1 // I S S U E # T W E N T Y E I G H T
£5
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$10
| A U G / S E P T 2 0 2 3 // I S S U E # T H I R T Y T W O
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| J A N / F E B 2 0 2 3 // I S S U E # T H I R T Y S I X
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| F E B / M A R 2 0 2 3 // I S S U E # T W E N T Y N I N E
JOHN
ELLIOTT CHESTER
Are You Ready For Autumn?
£5
| A U G / S E P T 2 0 2 2 // I S S U E # T W E N T Y S I X
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| N O V / D E C 2 0 2 2 // I S S U E # T H I R T Y F I V E
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| D E C 2 0 2 2 / J A N 2 0 2 3 // I S S U E # T W E N T Y E I G H T
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t NORTH AMERICA
LISA FARRALL ALICE MCCOLM JAMES MOLLOY
£5
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1
NO RECURRING PAYMENT t NORTH AMERICA
TRADE. BUSINESS. EDUCATION.
t UK & IREL AND
TOTAL PAYMENT ONLY $75.00
t NORTH AMERICA
t NORTH AMERICA
HAIR. NAILS. BEAUTY.
TOTAL PAYMENT $60.00 TRADE. CULTURE. EDUCATION.
UK & IRELAND
t NORTH AMERICA
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t NORTH AMERICA
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t NORTH AMERICA
t NORTH AMERICA
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LUCHMUN STUDIOS
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£5
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SQUEAK PRO BARBER JAMIE DIGRAZIA CAMERA READY KUTZ
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HASSAN WHITAKER
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$10
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(INCLUDESRobert POSTAGE)
NICK STENSON CASSIE CAREY
Avant Garde
TRADE. CULTURE. EDUCATION. BUSINESS.
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URBAN RETREAT
$10
PROJECT: MEN
NORTH AMERICA.
Masciave
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SARAH MALINDA
CAITLIN MEEHAN
LACY GADEGAARD-WEST
£5
TRADE. CULTURE. EDUCATION.
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Commit To The Switch
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ERROL DOUGLAS MBE MICHELLE HUMPHREY
$10
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t NORTH AMERICA
(INCLUDES POSTAGE) TOM Avant Garde
| J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 2 // I S S U E # S E V E N
DAMIAN OWEN
JAMES ALFIE PARR
| D E C 2 0 2 1 / J A N 2 0 2 2 // I S S U E # E L E V E N
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£5
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BRANDI LASHAY THE MUSA LAIR FELICIA FEBO
RUM BARBER
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1981 BARBERSHOP TALITHA MADDISON
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ART + SCIENCE
t NORTH AMERICA
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TRADE. BUSINESS. EDUCATION. CULTURE.
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| S E P T / O C T 2 0 2 0 // I S S U E T W E N T Y T W O
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| A P R I L / M A Y 2 0 2 0 // I S S U E T H I R T E E N
£5
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| F E B R U A R Y/ M A R C H 2 0 2 2 // I S S U E # T W E L V E
ALLAN STONE
THE GARRISON
THE SOCIAL CLUB
| A U G U S T / S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 0 // I S S U E F O U R T E E N
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THE MUSA LAIR
| J A N / F E B 2 0 2 1 // I S S U E # T W E N T Y F O U R
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TRADE. EDUCATION. BUSINESS. CULTURE.
| D E C 2 0 2 0 / J A N 2 0 2 1 // I S S U E S I X T E E N
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| M A R /A P R 2 0 2 1 // I S S U E # T W E N T Y F I V E
HELEN MAGUIRE JODY TAYLOR
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JOHN MOSLEY
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KiNG OF THE RiNG
| A P R I L / M A Y 2 0 2 2 // I S S U E # T W E N T Y F O U R
TRADE. BUSINESS. EDUCATION. CULTURE.
$10
t NORTH AMERICA
t NORTH AMERICA
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LOS CUT IT
OLD SPICE BARBERSHOP
$10
JADE ROGERS SHELDON EDWARDS JACK ABSOLON
RICHIE THE BARBER
R.W. WOLF.
RUGER BARBER
£ 5 //€ 6
BARBER THEORY ERIC CHEEK
CLARKS BARBER LOUNGE RICK MORIN
PRESLEY POE
WAHL EdUCATiON
$10
AMERICAN HAIRLINES THE SPOT ACADEMY MARCUS HARVEY STORMI KELLEY VINCE GARCIA
KNO W NO BOUNdA RiE S
$10
NOVO CABELO CRESSWELL BARBER CO
COLIN PETRIE ROMEO THE BARBER MARK MACIVER MORGAN JONES
T RANSFORMATiON
£5
ONE BATTERY. UNLIMITED TOOLS. PAT REGAN
ADRIANA FOURNIER ANGEL DEL SOLAR
MISSY MEGGINSON
F X ONE
$10
GOLDWELL ARTISTS REBECCA HIELE
ANNA MANUKYAN
CHARLIE BRACKNEY LOVE NIEVES ALMARAZ
LUDOVIC BECKERS
Goldwell Gold Star Education
| A U G / S E P T 2 0 2 2 // I S S U E # F I F T E E N
JOSH O’MEARA- PATEL
ROBERT BRAID
| D E C 2 0 2 3 / J A N 2 0 2 4 // I S S U E # T H I R T Y F O U R
ZACH RAMSEY
GREY MATTER LA
BRITTANY FITAPELLI
barberevo
£5//€6
RICHIE THE BARBER
THE RISE OF SQUIRE
| S E P T / O C T 2 0 2 3 // I S S U E # F O R T Y
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| O C T / N O V 2 0 2 3 // I S S U E # T H I R T Y T H R E E
DEXTER JOHNSON
$10
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£5
| J U N E / J U LY 2 0 2 1 // I S S U E # N I N E T E E N
KROPPER BARBERSHOP
SAM BENTHAM CUTS & CREPS
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$10
SiD SOT TUNG
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salon-evo
DISRUPTOUR
CASSONDRA KURTZ
SHARP & FLASK JONATHAN ANDREW
| J U L / A U G 2 0 2 1 // I S S U E # T W E N T Y S E V E N
MU
ASHLEY LAVALLEE
CHARLES SHUMATE
| A U G / S E P T 2 0 2 1 // I S S U E # T W E N T Y
d REW NOZ
GOULD BARBERS CHARLIE VENN
| M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 0 // I S S U E T W E N T Y
DAVID RACCUGLIA PAUL WILSON
FRANK SOTO
STEELE BARBER + SPA
D E C 2 0 1 9 / J A N 2 0 2 0 // I S S U E # E L E V E N
CAM MAHAR
$10
THE FINAL CUT.
LISA FARRALL C ATA LY S T C OL L E C T ION
THE FINAL CUT.
Photography// Condry Calvin Mlilo. Styling// Elevate the Everyday. Hair// Lisa Farrall. Creative Direction// Lisa Farrall. Make up// Lauren Kay.
THE FINAL CUT.
DANILO GIANGRECO DOPAMINE: THE FEEL GOOD CHEMICAL
Art Direction, Hair Stylist// Hair, ????. Photography // Danilo Giangreco. Nail Technician// Hair Crew// ????. Emy Roccabella, Make-up Artist// Enrica ????. Russo. Make-up Stylist// Artist// Kasia Postaremczak. ????. Stylist// Models// Danilo ????. Giangreco Art Team. Products// ????. Photography// ????.
THE FINAL CUT.
86
24 DIR E C T O R S Andrew Brewster// andrew@barberevo.com David Foster// david@barberevo.com ****
D E S IG N Sarah Slater// sarah@salon-evo.com Greg Wickham// design@salon-evo.com ****
S A L O NE V O E DI T O R Jennifer Paxton//
A N D R E W B R E W S T E R & DAVID F OS T ER | CO - F OUNDERS
jennifer@salon-evo.com ****
B A R B E R E V O E DI T O R Mairi Mulhern// mmulhern@barberevo.com ****
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M A R K E T IN G M A N A G E R Nathalia Almeida// nathalia@barberevo.com ****
O F F IC E M A N A G E R Elspeth Foster// elspeth@barberevo.com ****
COVER Mia Secret
HERE IT IS – 2024. WE CAN FEEL THE BUZZ OF NEW BUSINESS, NEW IDEAS, AND BRAND-NEW CONTENT IN THE AIR. HERE’S A LOOK AT WHAT WE’RE PLANNING FOR 2024 – AND HOW WE CAN HELP BOOST YOUR SUCCESS, TOO. Welcome back and happy new year! We hope you had a restful and restorative festive break and are eager to get into 2024! What are your resolutions this year? And the real question is, how long do you think you’ll be keeping them? 2023 was a big one for us. We celebrated 100 EVO editions, traveled here, there, and everywhere, attended tradeshows and events all across the globe, and we can’t wait to see what 2024 brings. Now, looking forward. We say this every new year, but we mean it! This year is going to be bigger and better than ever. We have a lot of great events on our radar for 2024, including IBS in March, ABS in April, and Premiere Orlando in June, where we’ll be catching up with winners in all categories
at the NAHAs, Global Image Awards, and way more. Keep an eye out for a lot of great collaborative content that will be launching in the run-up. Print will ALWAYS be our focus, as we want to ensure that EVO magazines can be a physical and collectable home for your hard work and words of wisdom. However, here at EVO, we know the power of digital content as well. The world is evolving, and we aren’t afaid of evolving with it. So, make sure to follow us on Instagram at @salonevomag, on Facebook as SalonEVO Magazine, and our newest edition, follow us on YouTube at @evoenterprises, as we release brand new, never seen before content every week! Also, follow our editor Jen at @jenpaxtonevo on Instagram too to see what she gets up to, who she’s interviewing, and BTS of many of our exciting events and activations.
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STAY CONNECTED
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WWW.SALON-EVO.COM COPYRIGHT All work in this publication is copyright SalonEVO Magazine and Evo Enterprises Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. © Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores. Evo Enterprises Ltd, Torus Building, Unit 6, Rankine Avenue, East Kilbride, G75 0QF UK
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30 80 ANNA MANUKYAN Ulta’s Head of Education & Creative. Founder, Beauty Finance Group
65 DANIELLE KEASLING
JENNIFER PAXTON | EDITOR
Global Director of L’Oréal brands, Matrix and Biolage, Executive Artistic Director of Great Lengths
WELCOME TO ISSUE 24 OF SALONEVO NORTH AMERICA, AND OUR FIRST EDITION OF 2024! NOW, IT’S TIME TO SHAKE OFF THE JANUARY BLUES AND EMBRACE ALL COLORS AND STYLES THIS YEAR. NOW GET READING AND GET INSPIRED. It’s only February and we can already tell, we have got a crazy year ahead. So, mark your calendars, because I have a premonition that 2024 is going to take us by storm. What events are you most looking forward to? We hope to see you there! We have a few beautiful collections kicking off this issue too… if you missed them, flip back! Check out the ABS 2024 collection by the Ulta Beauty Team, George Alderete’s Future Perfect collection – which we dive into the BTS on page 72, and a couple of collections from UK powerhouses, Lisa Farrall and Danilo Giangreco – get to know these names! Speaking of big names, we have some serious legends in this issue. We’re talking about Antoinette Beenders and Candy Shaw. Big deals. We also welcome a brand new columnist to this issue –
please give a warm welcome to Mr J Ladner, and of course, welcome back to Anna Manukyan, Danielle Keasling, and Stephanie Yaggy Lavery. In our first feature, we talk about the trends of 2024; what will they be, what will we be loving, and what your clients will be asking for. Are you on team Peach Fuzz or Midnight Berry? What is your favorite cut and style to take off in 2024? In light of all the stunning looks at the Hollywood red carpet events this year and during the Fashion Week season, we wanted to dig behind the scenes at what it’s really like to be a session stylist. Is it as glamorous as it looks? What are the tools and tips for success? Major session stylists tell all. Finally, we talk color and the iconic color products that help you create iconic looks. We can see how lives can change by adding a little more color.
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86 S T E P H A NIE YA G GY L AV E R Y Executive Publisher Advisor, Mia Secret
100 J LADNER Chief Brand Ambassador Oligo Pro, Director of Education, Fast Foils
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EVO'SL I S T E N I N G T O …
W H AT
ARE YOU LOOKING FOR SOMETHING NEW TO LISTEN TO ON YOUR COMMUTE, TO GET YOU INSPIRED, MAKE YOU LAUGH, AND GAIN INSIGHTFUL WISDOM BY YOUR TALENTED PEERS IN THE HAIR AND BEAUTY WORLD? WELL, WE THOUGHT WE’D SHARE EVO’S FAVORITE PODCASTS THAT WE HAVE QUEUED UP FOR JANUARY.
YOUR DAY OFF PODCAST, BY HAIRDUSTRY AKA TONY AND COREY BREAKROOM BANTER PODCAST, BY HUNTER WALDEN AND ERICKA WEIST In the dynamic world of beauty and salon culture, Breakroom Banter Podcast emerges as a refreshing and enlightening voice, offering a unique blend of industry insights, personal anecdotes, and engaging conversations. This podcast has become a must-listen for beauty professionals seeking inspiration, knowledge, and a good laugh. Hosted by industry veterans with a passion for both the artistry and business of beauty, Breakroom Banter stands out by seamlessly blending humor, trends, and expert interviews. Tune in, and you'll find yourself transported into the heart of salon life, where every episode feels like a lively chat among colleagues during a well-deserved break. They kicked off the year with a fantastic conversation with international hair color icon Jack Howard, Global Hair Color Educator, L’Oréal Pro US Color Artist and L’Oreal Pro UKI Color Artist. In this episode they talk about the road to his success, the sacrifices he made, and acknowledging the privileges we may have. Watch and/or listen to episode #93 on Spotify, Apple, or on YouTube. Follow @breakroombanterpod
Tony and Corey are making the hair industry a better place, one podcast episode at a time! They cover the challenges and the successes of hairdressers and barbers, giving you the motivation to take your career wherever your sights are set. One of our most favorite episodes as of late was S6 E47 “From Bathroom Barber to Industry Trailblazer: The Rodrick Samuels Story" sharing Rodrick's journey from being a self-taught "bathroom barber" in Summerville, South Carolina, to founding the Hair Lab Detroit Barber School is a testament to a transformation fueled by familial support, passion, perseverance, and purpose. Today, his school not only imparts technical skills but also emphasizes soft skills, molding well-rounded barbering professionals. His innovative philosophy, grounded in the belief that success in barbering intertwines with understanding people as much as it does with hair, has positioned him as a pivotal figure shaping the future of the industry.
Follow @hairdustry
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NO STYLIST LEFT BEHIND PODCAST, BY J LADNER & NINA TULIO No Stylist Left Behind is your beacon of wisdom. Nina Tulio and J Ladner are here to help stylists reach their full potential by sharing unfiltered stories from industry leaders. Real people sharing how they conquered fear, failure, and risked it all. Nina, a former salon owner/stylist turned business coach and speaker, and J, salon owner/stylist and educator, have created this platform to allow you to dig deep, help you move past your insecurities, conquer your fears, and become the absolute best version of yourself. They kick-started 2024 with an interview featuring Emily Chen, a content creator extraordinaire and salon owner. Her insights on social media, recording, and editing videos are invaluable. With more icons and legends on the horizon, Nina and J will guide you through the hottest topics and trends, streaming on platforms twice a month. Follow @itsmrjladner & @ninatulio
SHORT
CUT S
JALEESA JAIKARAN JOINS ULTA BEAUTY PRO TEAM Ulta Beauty, the nation’s leading beauty retailer and premier destination for beauty services, today announced makeup artist and podcast host Jaleesa Jaikaran (@jaleesajaikaran) has joined its Pro Team, a collaborative group of industry leaders who bring the vision and experience of The Salon at Ulta Beauty to life. Jakairan’s new role with the Ulta Beauty Pro Team will reflect Ulta Beauty’s ever-evolving education and amplify the company’s commitment to sharing more makeup tips, techniques, and innovative solutions. Jaikaran is the third makeup artist on the current Ulta Beauty Pro Team. She joins Mat Wulff, also new in 2023, and veteran Deney Adam. Jaleesa works to enhance clients’ natural beauty. Obsessed with the transformative powers of makeup,
Jaikaran’s inspiration comes from being exposed to diverse cultures and the desire to uplift the self-esteem of other women, a struggle she experienced growing up in Trinidad. She also hosts the beauty podcast "The Life of a Makeup Artist," where the conversations are centered around sharing the stories of rising and defining voices in beauty, highlighting their career journeys, the lessons they’ve learned along the way and why it’s critical to create a future that continues to be inclusive. “As a proud beauty educator hailing from Trinidad, I am absolutely thrilled to join the Ulta Beauty Pro Team, bringing education and unparalleled expertise to the beauty community,” Jaikaran says. “Get ready to embark on this exciting journey with us—the best is yet to come!”
RAZOR CREATIVE CLASS AND HAPPY MONDAYS WITH NICK ARROJO STORM ACROSS THE STATES
REMEMBERING ANGUS MITCHELL Co-Owner of John Paul Mitchell Systems, only child of Paul Mitchell, and well-loved hairdresser Angus Mitchell sadly passed away at his home in Honolulu, Hawaii on January 4th. He was just 53. His family made an emotional statement on social media saying: “For all who knew him, even just in passing, his bright light made you feel transformed, and seen, allowing you to feel like you were the most special person in the room. Angus showed us how to love openly, forgive easily, and had a zest and appreciation for life and all who were in it like no other. Angus treated everyone with gratitude, respect and unconditional kindness.” Co-Founder and chairman of John Paul Mitchell Systems,
John Paul DeJoria also said: “It is with tremendous sadness that we mourn the sudden passing of Angus Mitchell. As a hairdresser and co-owner of JPMS, Angus had a deep love of family, community, and the beauty industry. Angus was the son of late co-founder Paul Mitchell and was a beloved colleague and important part of our JPMS family. Angus had a huge heart that impacted countless people who crossed his path. We are grateful for the time we got with him, through it ended far too soon. During this shocking and difficult time, we kindly request privacy as we navigate this profound loss.” All at SalonEVO send our heartfelt condolences to the the family and friends of this true industry icon.
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Experience the ultimate in education as Nick Arrojo embarks on a new tour for 2024. Transform your hairstyling approach with Nick’s pioneering Razor Creative seminar, followed by an exclusive and intimate evening event, Happy Mondays. This is a unique opportunity to master the art of straightedge razor cutting and gain trend insights and inspirations from one of the world’s top stylists.
Happy Mondays: An Evening of
Razor Creative Class: What You'll Learn • Razor Handling Mastery: Start with Nick's exclusive 'razor aerobics' to learn the safe and correct way to handle a straightedge razor. • Advanced Techniques: Dive into stroke and rotation, weightless lines, texture and taper, and creating stunning swinging and curtain bangs. • Precision Cutting: Learn to cut close to the root, and master lines, layers, and graduations for tailor-made looks.
Island, NY
Inspiration and Connectivity • Live Demonstrations: Watch Nick and special guests showcase modern razor cutting and the latest hair trends from the streets of NYC. 2024 Confirmed Class Dates and Locations For Razor Creative and Happy Mondays • Feb 12: Richard Salon and Blueblinds Mansion, both in Long • Feb 19: Scotch Bonnet, WPB, FL • Mar 18: Planet Salon, LA, CA Razor Creative runs from 10 am to 4 pm. Happy Mondays goes from 5:30-7:30pm. “Our mission to supply education and inspiration to stylists continues,” says Nick Arrojo. “The idea of this year’s tour is to combine the practical skills of a handson Razor Creative seminar with the artistic inspiration of Happy Mondays.”
FOLLOW EVO ON YOUTUBE FOR EXCLUSIVE INDUSTRY CONTENT AND MORE! If you know EVO, you know we like to be here, there and everywhere. We like to be up close and personal and attend as many events as possible that we can, holding live interviews with industry heroes, and having fun with live event activations. Now, you can follow along with everything the EVO team gets up to via our YouTube channel, @evoenterprises. Catch up with interviews from America’s Beauty Show, the CT Barber Expo, and Premiere Orlando. And follow along for so much more to come, in 2024! Brand new, never before seen content will be released weekly, starting the first week of February, as follows: • Mondays – America’s Beauty Show 2023 • Wednesdays – CT Barber EXPO 2023 • Fridays – Premiere Orlando 2023
EVENTS 2024
PREMIERE ANAHEIM // FEB 4 TH -5 TH ANAHEIM CONVENTION CENTER
INTERNATIONAL BEAUTY SHOW NYC // MARCH 3 RD -5 TH JAVITS CENTER NYC
AMERICA’S BEAUTY SHOW // APRIL 20 TH -22 ND DONALD E STEPHENS CONVENTION CENTER
PREMIERE ORLANDO // JUNE 1 ST-3 RD ORLANDO/ORANGE COUNTY CONVENTION CENTER
HAIRCON // JUNE 22 ND -24 TH 02 MANCHESTER
INTERNATIONAL BEAUTY SHOW LV // JUNE 22 ND -24 TH LAS VEGAS CONVENTION CENTER
PREMIERE COLUMBUS// SEPT 29 TH -30 TH GREATER COLUMBUS CONVENTION CENTER
BE PART OF THE MAGIC AT THE 2024 NORTH AMERICAN HAIRSTYLING AWARDS NAHA IS PROUD TO ANNOUNCE ORLANDO AS A NEW HOME FOR THE 35TH ANNUAL EVENT, IN CONJUNCTION WITH PREMIERE ORLANDO FOR BEAUTY’S BIGGEST WEEKEND!
The Professional Beauty Association (PBA), whose mission is to advocate and fight for the rights and professionalism of the beauty industry, is excited to announce a new home for the 35th North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA). NAHA 2024 will be held June 2nd at the Orange County Convention Center in the Chapin Theater in conjunction with Premiere Orlando. The move to Orlando marks the first year in NAHA’s history the event will take place on the East Coast. “We are thrilled NAHA will now be in conjunction with Premiere Orlando,” shares PBA Executive Director Nina Daily. “Premiere Orlando is the largest beauty show in the United States, and this move will allow an expanded audience of beauty professionals to leverage the power of two leading industry events in one place.”
KEY DATES FOR NAHA 2024 ARE AS FOLLOWS: Finalist Announcement: Feb, 4th, 2024 – Premiere Anaheim NAHA 2024 Award Ceremony: June 2, 2024 — Orlando Categories for the 35th Annual North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA) are as follows: • Avant Garde • Barber of the Year • Editorial Stylist of the Year • Educator of the Year • Haircolor • Haircutting • Hairstylist of the Year • Inspiring Salon of the Year • Makeup Artist of the Year
“NAHA HAS OPENED SO MANY DOORS FOR ME, AND ALLOWED ME TO EXPAND MY NETWORK IN A WAY THAT WOULD HAVE NEVER BEEN POSSIBLE BEFORE, WITH PEOPLE WHO SHARE MY PASSIONS, WHICH IS REALLY RARE.”
- CASSIE CAREY // AVANT GARDE 2023, HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR 2022, NEWCOMER 2020
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JUNE 2, 2024 AT PREMIERE ORLANDO
AVANT GARDE
HAIRCOLOR
HAIRCUTTING
HAIR BY NAHA 2023 AVANT GARDE WINNER CASSIE CAREY
HAIR BY NAHA 2023 HAIRCOLOR WINNER LUIS GONZALEZ
HAIR BY NAHA 2023 HAIRCUTTING WINNER YUKI YASUI
STYLING & FINISHING
HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR
TEXTURE
HAIR BY NAHA 2023 TEXTURE WINNER KEITH BRYCE
HAIR BY NAHA 2023 STYLING & FINISHING WINNER CAIDY BRASURE
HAIR BY NAHA 2023 HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR WINNER JULIE VRIESINGA
Find out who wins and join us live at NAHA in Orlando, June 2, 2024 alongside Premiere Orlando. For tickets or for more information visit
Photography// Nicolas Moore
TREND WORTHY Photography// [Confirm With Client!]
IT'S TIME TO SHAKE OFF THE JANUARY BLUES AND KICK OFF 2024 WITH A BANG. WHETHER YOU'RE A TREND JUNKIE, OR A TREND SETTER, LET'S TALK ABOUT THE STYLES, CUTS AND COLORS THAT WILL DEFINE THE YEAR TO COME AND HOW TO MAKE 2024 THE BEST YEAR YET. 30
GO ROGUE
IN 2024
VP R+COLOR DEVELOPMENT, MEMBER OF THE R+CO COLLECTIVE, AND COFOUNDER OF RIKOKO BEAUTY, RICHY KANDASAMY HAS ALWAYS GOT HIS EYE ON THE LATEST TRENDS IN HAIRSTYLES AND COLORS, BUT HIS REAL MISSION IS SETTING TRENDS, NOT FOLLOWING THEM. Originally from Seychelles and now a resident of Miami, Richy’s career in the world of hair has been an adventure. He said: “I first moved to Florence, Italy, in 2000 at 18, then to London, New York, and now Miami. My passion for hair color, artistry, education, and culture has shaped my unique approach to hair coloring. “My focus and passion lie in innovation and new product development. I’m heavily influenced by art, fashion, and collaborating with synergistic brands and reputable publications. “The most influential mentors in my professional career include industry greats like Anthony Mascolo, Sarah Brookes, Christel Lundquist, Garren, and Howard McLaren. “My personal passion for experimentation and technical development has led me to share knowledge through educational seminars, workshops, and immersive shows globally. It’s a way of staying connected and giving back to the hairstyling community.” Many people may not know that the ‘R’ in R+Co stands for ‘Rogue’, as the ethos behind the brand is about bending the rules, breaking boundaries, and setting trends rather than following them. So, what made Richy go rogue? He said: “R+Co
“R+CO SETS TRENDS BY STAYING ATTUNED TO CULTURAL MOVEMENTS WITHIN THE HAIR INDUSTRY.”
“MY FOCUS AND PASSION LIE IN INNOVATION AND NEW PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT. I’M HEAVILY INFLUENCED BY ART, AND FASHION AND COLLABORATING WITH SYNERGISTIC BRANDS AND REPUTABLE PUBLICATIONS.” 31
“IN 2024, EXPECT EVEN MORE EXPERIMENTAL AND ECLECTIC COLOR CHOICES— UNCONVENTIONAL BLENDS, HOLOGRAPHIC TONES, AND MULTIDIMENSIONAL HUES. CLASSIC, NATUREINSPIRED COLORS LIKE EARTHY TONES OR BOTANICAL SHADES WILL REMAIN SIGNIFICANT.” RICHY'S TOP PRODUCT PICKS FOR 2024 My essential R+Co MVPs this year cater to various hair needs: • R+Co SUN CATCHER: Shields hair from sun damage with vitamin C. • R+Co BALLOON: Adds volume and texture without stiffness. • R+Co BLEU REFLECTIVE SHINE: Locks styles in place with a reflective shine. • R+Co BLEU SMOOTH & SEAL: Prepares hair, smooths frizz, and protects from heat. • R+Co BLEU OPTICAL ILLUSION: Enhances shine, tames frizz, and improves manageability.
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has always stood out to me as a truly unique company. Its innovative approach to haircare merging creativity, artistry, and performance with a collective philosophy immediately drew me in. The brand’s unwavering commitment to utilizing high-quality ingredients, unique formulations, and sustainability resonated with my values, principles, and ethos.” Richy continued: “R+Co sets trends by staying attuned to cultural movements within the hair industry. Collaborating with fashion companies, top hairstylists, insiders, and influencers helps understand emerging trends and evolving consumer needs. “When it comes to color development and formulation our goal is to strike a balance between innovation and classic. New products or adjustments reflect contemporary ingredients and trends while upholding core principles of quality, performance, and brand ethos, ensuring products remain relevant over time.” Let’s talk trends for 2024. I asked Richy for one sentence to describe his vision of hair in 2024. He said: “2024’s hair trends embrace a kaleidoscope of unconventional colors, futuristic styles, and a blend of retro and avant-garde inspirations, inviting limitless self-expression.” Having the power to set trends rather than
just follow them is something that takes a lot of practice, knowledge, and understanding of how and where to draw inspiration from. Richy said: “I find inspiration in all things color — on runways, in nature, art galleries, even social media can spark imagination.” He shared some of his favorite trend predictions for the year to come. “My favorite color trends now are dimensional hazelnut brunette, luxe brunette, and treasury golden copper blond. In 2024, expect even more experimental and eclectic color choices — unconventional blends, holographic tones, and multidimensional hues. Classic, nature-inspired colors like earthy tones or botanical shades will remain significant, reflecting a growing appreciation for natureinspired palettes.” For cuts and styles, Richy said: “My top picks remain the timeless Italian and French bob haircuts — effortlessly elegant and sophisticated. Looking ahead to 2024, we might see a return of precision bobs for a refined look. Meanwhile, mullet and shag cuts could evolve, appealing to those seeking edgy, textured styles.” •
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HOW TO ACHIEVE TIMELESS, CHIC HAIR COLOR IN 2024:
1 2 3 4 5 6
Classic Tones: Go for rich brunettes, warm caramel, or elegant blondes. Balayage or Highlights: Add depth for a sun-kissed effect. Multidimensional Color: Experiment with shades for depth and movement. Natural Roots: Blend seamlessly for low-maintenance chic. Gloss Treatment: Enhance shine for a polished finish. Consult a Pro: Get personalized advice for the best results.
WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE TREND PREDICTIONS FOR THIS SEASON AND BEYOND? FROM MIDNIGHT BERRY TO PEACH FUZZ, THE COLOR TRENDS ARE LOOKING PRETTY SWEET IN 2024. Photography// Goldwell
GOLDWELL COLOR OF 2024
MIDNIGHT BERRY Goldwell, a leading salon-professional hair colour brand renowned for its innovation and creativity, has once again partnered with global trend agencies and colour experts to introduce its Color of the Year for 2024: MIDNIGHT BERRY. This shade of highly saturated purple and the deepest blues exudes richness and complexity, effortlessly encompassing two of the freshest shades for the upcoming year. Goldwell's Color of the Year initiative is designed to inspire stylists and clients alike, pushing the boundaries of hair fashion and setting trends that shape the industry. Via MIDNIGHT BERRY, Goldwell once again showcases its expertise in creating colors that transform hair. “Drawing inspiration from the enchanting, jewel tone colors found in nature, MIDNIGHT BERRY captures the essence of elegance, allure and a growing desire for glamour,” says Jane Boddy, Global Color Expert. “Its deep, multidimensional hue consists of an inner core of darkness and a rebellious spirit, evoking a sense of mystery.” The infusion of blue undertones and hints of ultraviolet give a new dimension to MIDNIGHT BERRY that spotlights the second big color story of 2024; the rise of tinted blacks. Inspired by the mystery of
the midnight sky, MIDNIGHT BERRY portrays a sense of enchantment and mystique that captivates and inspires. Angelo Seminara said: "MIDNIGHT BERRY is a shade that embodies the spirit of the modern woman – confident, daring, and unapologetically unique, Hair color should be a reflection of one's individuality, and MIDNIGHT BERRY offers endless possibilities for selfexpression. It's a shade that truly stands out in a crowd." Product Picks: • Elumen Gy @6 • Elumen VV@all • Elumen Bl @ all
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TREND// PEACH FUZZ
Thoughts from: Teresa Romero, Hannah Menor and Lisa Mayo It’s that moment we have all been waiting for…. Pantone has announced their color of the year. And this year, it is Peach Fuzz! A soft, pastel tone that is oh so fun to play with in hair. Here are a few colorists’ take on the color, and how it will translate behind the chair. “2024 Pantone color Peach Fuzz inspires a fresh approach to softness. This collaboration of soft pink and orange tones will be seen in hair, makeup, fashion, and interior design. “This youthful warm tone adds a healthy glow to eyes, lips and checks. It’s beautiful as a stand-alone hair color and is further complimented when combined with brunettes and brings on understated drama when paired next to deep reds and plums. “The 2024 Peach Fuzz tone becomes even more exciting when combined with a fresh haircut. Relaxed bobs and effortless pixies, hybrid shapes with low maintenance layers like the Kitty or Cub Cut, detached crowns and fringes will heavily influence the hairstyles curated in 2024.” - Teresa Romero (@_teresa_romero)
“Peach fuzz is the Pantone color of the year and I have to say it is totally IT! “Peach is such a soft yet fun color and I think we will totally see it in the hair world since it’s such a wearable color on multiple complexions and is one of the easier colors to achieve and maintain. “The best way to utilize this color and keep maintence to a minimal would be doing a peach balayage to allow for a soft natural grow out but with a pop of color.” - Lisa Mayo, (@lisa_createdtocreate)
THE TREND// MARMALADE COPPER MEETS TANGERINE COPPER. This season’s copper has undertones of playful pink and yellow. This mischievous mix creates a delicate luminous tone will suit a multitude of skin tones and open up numerous possibilities.
The meteoric rise to fame of Jenna Ortega, has led to a rise in brunette requests. This season’s brunettes will be glossy and healthy but also incorporate the youthful edge with a grungier, grittier feel.
THE TREND// PUMPKIN SPICE. As colder weather creates a desire for heat, expect increased demand for warmer shades. Pumpkin Spice encapsulates this movement – it’s a warm brown containing hints of red and copper.
TREND// THE CUB CUT Full sexy silhouettes with height at the crown, fringe and flicked ends were popularized by Jane Birkin and Jean Shrimpton back in the 60’s. This sassy, shoulder-grazing, shag-inspired look called the Cub Cut boasts a texturized, line-free finish, making it perfect for those guests ready to go a little shorter. “The Cub Cut has heavier fringe that tapers into sides that are heavily layered so you can get a ton of volume, height and movement,” explains Becka Bradshaw, Sam Villa Ambassador.
Full Layers : Elevation and over direction with just four sections creates the full layers. To highlight cheek bones, create a guide that lines
As nature brings a host of stunning colours with the change in seasons, expect to see a beautiful spectrum of hair colour trends. Here, the team from Brooks & Brooks, London, offers its take on the shades that will dominate the coming months.
THE TREND// ORTEGA BRUNETTE.
“The 2024 Pantone Color of the Year, Peach Fuzz is SO FUN! I’ve already thought of tons of different placements and color variations of “peach” I can talk my clients into for the Color of the Year. My friend Katy and I have already planned out a full creative day centered around the Color of the Year. You’ll have to be on the lookout for what we create and put our own twist on Peach Fuzz!” - Hanna Menor (@hannadisconnected)
Fringe : Always start a cut with the most important part to establish confidence with the guest, for this look it’s the fringe. When making a big change, the most important element to a guest is what they see right in front of their face. Cutting the fringe first helps the guest establish trust and relaxes them. Sometimes when cutting hair dry, the bevel is minimized, use a Sam Villa Sleekr Professional Straightening Iron to establish another bevel so fringe looks finished and the guest can admire their bangs while the rest of their hair is being cut.
COLOR TREND REPORT FROM BROOKS & BROOKS
THE TREND// SATURATED TONES.
Hair// @beckabradshaw
up and slide Sam Villa Artist Series 6.25” Shear slightly down the hair strand cutting on the way to create a really soft guide. The shears have ample blade length to handle the larger sections. Soft zigzag sections and overdirecting each of the four quadrants back over the head to the opposite quadrant helps create softness in the cut and the soft lines save time from having to go back and texturize/soften at a later time. Sides : Diagonal back sections over directed slightly forward, combined with channel cutting creates the separation and playfulness in the cut.
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The ultimate in beautiful, subtle color, saturated tones come from a feeling of the dawn. These shades are as light as air. Think of the hair as a canvas on which you are creating a stunning watercolor.
THE TREND// SWITCH THE STITCH AND ADAPT YOUR PAINT. Creating change through dimension with artful placement will be a colour menu must this season. Balayage techniques featuring placements of deeper contrasting shades will give depth.
WILL 2024 BE THE YEAR OF THE
BRUNETTE? BLONDES HAVE HAD THEIR MOMENT IN THE SUN FOR LONG ENOUGH. COPPER MADE A COMEBACK IN 2023. WILL BRUNETTES TAKE THE STAGE IN 2024? LIVED-IN COLOR ARTIST, BRUNETTE SPECIALIST, AND TRUSS AMBASSADOR MARINA SELLECCHIA THINKS SO! Based out of Warrington, Pennsylvania, Marina has
Over the last few years, there has been a rise in
been in the hair industry for 20 years. “I worked
popularity among blonde and balayage experts,
out of the same salon for about 18 years, and then
but it is less common to see brunette specialists.
about three and a half years ago, I opened my
I asked Marina what drew her to rebrand as a
studio. It was at that point that I started shifting
brunette specialist. She said: “I am a brunette
my clientele to lived-in color, and branding my
myself, and always loved working with brunette
business more as a brunette specialist.”
hair. But I was also gaining a lot of clients
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specifically because they were brunettes, and they all said how hard it was to find a colorist who excelled in creating lived-in brunettes. Blondes are a lot of work to create, but I think brunettes are more complicated to get right.” As we move into 2024, Marina believes that Brunette is going to be big this year. She said: “I have definitely seen a shift, and a change even in my blonde clients, who, a few years ago could never be blonde enough, are now wanting to shift to warmer, more lived-in tones and low lights into their hair. In general, clients are embracing their natural colors, and these days, being brunette doesn’t have to be boring! There is so much fun to be had. I am personally loving the warm, rich, chocolatey brunettes. If you check out my Instagram (@colorbymarina) you can see all my takes on brunettes, like the Espresso Martini Brunette, the Mocha Brunette, or the Brown Sugar Brunette.” Anyone else feeling hungry? As Marina said, mastering brunettes can be a process, so as trends change and clients change their needs, colorists need to prepare themselves and tune their skills up. It’s also about having the right high performance products that keep the integrity of the hair, allowing you the freedom to create. For hairdressers wanting to learn how to master the brunette side of color, here’s Marina’s advice: “Don’t be afraid to get the mannequin heads back out and practice formulating for brunettes. Get a
MARINA’S TOP PRODUCTS FOR COLOR CLIENTS blonde mannequin and try out different formulas with low lights and different applications to see how you feel about the result. “A big thing for me is to customize every lived-in color service to the client in my chair. I look at my client and envision what I want the final result to look like based on the client’s eye color, skin tone, and natural hair color. This gives me a plan in my mind of how I am going to approach the service and create a natural result. Remember, the formulas you see online are a great guide, but they are not one-size-fits-all.” Marina said that the number one complaint she was hearing from brunette clients was that they felt their hair was always going brassy. She said: “This issue usually comes down to the fact that the hair was not lifted high enough to begin with. So, even though I am keeping my client’s brunette, I tend to lift their hair past that orange/ brassy stage, and then I tone it down. That means when the color does fade, it fades to a pretty caramel color.” Marina has been working with Truss for the past five years as a brand specialist and then US Ambassador. “I fell in love with the smell of all of the Truss products, but more importantly, how they make the hair feel after using them. With all of Truss’s lighteners, I can lift my clients’ hair to quite a light level, with the hair still feeling healthy and shiny.”
For more info, go to trussprofessional.com
Truss Deluxe Prime Spray Strengthens hair and keeps it healthy between appointments.
Truss Amino Miracle Heat protectants are super important for color clients to maintain their color between appointments. This product promotes hair sealing, provides a glossy finish, and protects 80% of the heat.
Truss Net Mask This is a super hydrating mask that keeps hair so shiny, healthy, and soft.
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Dare to Be Different
IS YOUR GOAL FOR 2024 TO MAKE YOUR WORK STAND OUT? WELL, LEARN FROM THE BEST. WAHL PRO LEAD EDUCATOR, KEVIN NGUYEN (AKA @YAKUZABARBER) SHARES HIS VISIONS AND TIPS FOR STANDING APART FROM THE REST AND CREATING ICONIC CUTS, WITH THE HELP OF WAHL PRO TOOLS.
If you’re looking to shake up your cuts this year, look no further than Yakuza Barber. If you’re looking for the right tools, Wahl Professional has just what you need. Let’s make 2024 the year of conquering your goals!
Kevin’s 2024 trend forecast When we asked what trends Kevin is forecasting for this year, he answered: “Iconic. Textured. More Length. Vibrant colors. Intricate design work, textured shags, and buzz cuts with bald fades are my favorites.” This master stylist continued: “I would like to see more prominent fade work this year!” The mullet is a haircut that took the world by storm in 2023 – whether you loved it or hated it.
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“THE HI-VIZ IS GOING TO GIVE YOU THE FINAL DEFINITION LOOK WHEN IT COMES TO SHARP LINE UPS/EDGE UPS. IF YOU WANT TO GIVE YOUR CUT THAT NICE CRISP EDGE, THE HI-VIZ IS YOUR GO-TO.” For all you mullet fanatics, this is Kevin’s advice on how to bring the mullet into 2024: “This year, we will be applying more texture and color to the mullet cut/style to modernize and give a fresh approach to this look going forward.”
Kevin’s go-to tool for 2024 It’s got to be the Wahl Professional Hi-Viz™ Trimmer... Kevin said: “The Hi-Viz is going to give you the final definition look when it comes to sharp line ups/edge ups. So, if you want to give your cut that nice crisp edge, the Hi-Viz is the go-to.” The Wahl Hi-Viz™ Trimmer was designed for those who live in the details. Built with a slim neck, where the body meets the blade, it allows for more visibility and control with every cut.
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The re-designed wide T-blade is manufactured with diamond-like carbon (DLC) coatings to last eight times longer than stainless steel blades (as shown in lab testing). With zero-gap capabilities, barbers can get the closest, most high-end results with every cut. The innovative Adaptive Speed Control automatically adjusts the motor to cut through all hair thicknesses and textures in a single hit. With over two years of intensive engineering, hand tested and assembled with care in the USA, the Hi-Viz™ is more than a tool – it’s an embodiment of your passion. Visit wahlpro.com for more details on the Wahl range and for updates on the newest innovations from one of the most iconic and trusted brands in the business.
COLLINS NIRVANA COMFORT WASH All-Electric Shampoo System with motorized leg rest and motorized front to back adjustability. Collins comfort wash series are the only shampoo systems in the market that provide a motorized leg rest that travels with the seat when adjusting for your clients height. The Nirvana features Collins CB79 lay-in shampoo bowl with headrest pad built into the center of the shampoo bowl providing for ultimate client comfort.
$2,799.00 // collins.co
WAHL HI-VIS TRIMMER Live in the details with the Wahl Hi-Vis Trimmer. Narrow in on fine lines with more visibility from a slim neck and an improved wide T-blade. Designed for all hair types with Adaptive Speed Control to automatically deliver more power when needed.
wahlpro.com
Includes ECRU’s bestselling Rejuvenating Shampoo + Conditioner. This duo promises to nourish, hydrate, and impart extraordinary shine to hair.
$50.00 // ERCUnewyork.com
ACUT ABOVE ULTA BEAUTY CLOUD KISS MATTE LIP CREAM
ECRU NEW YORK – THE HAIR & NOW
TONDEO THOR DAMAST SCISSORS
1821 MAN MADE ORIGINAL SWEET TOBACCO WASH Inspired by the spirit of swanky, Prohibition-era speakeasy lounges. Revel in the masculine scent of sweet Virginia pipe tobacco while enjoying a moisturizing lather that’s perfect for all skin and hair types.
$29.00 // 1821manmade.com
LHC HYDRATING OIL
Ulta Beauty Collection’s Cloud Kiss Matte Lip Cream is a buttery, comfortable formula with a whipped, mousse-like texture that feels as light as air.
Tondeo Thor Damast Offset 7.0 Conblade— Forged by Masters. Incomparable toughness and durability, exceptionally pure steel, and a beautiful design to boot. Made with 100% Damascus steel (120 layers rolled, stainless) from the blade tip to the finger rings, and featuring a CONBLADE. If Thor, the god of thunder, had forged a pair of scissors, this is how he would have made it! Simply epic.
Created by the people behind Laced Hair Extensions, LHC is created with hair extensions in mind, to protect the most high-maintenance hair. Protects hair against free-radicals and daily styling damage, traps 90% of unwanted odor molecules, with a weightless, non-greasy formula.
$10.00 // ulta.com
$1,799.00 // tondeonorthamerica.com
lacedhair.com
AVEDA CONTROL FORCE™ FIRM HOLD HAIR SPRAY
ULTA BEAUTY BROW TINT GEL
R+CO – SPIRITUALIZED DRY SHAMPOO MIST Great as a style refresher and for those on the go also ideal for post-workout. SPIRITUALIZED Dry Shampoo Mist transcends ordinary dry shampoo. Its revolutionary micellar formula has suspended cleansing powder leaving hair and scalp feeling cleaner than regular dry shampoos - with no powdery residue.
Aveda’s firmest hold hair spray offers long-lasting hold and humidity defence for all hair types—and has a net-zero climate impact. Aveda funds renewable wind energy to offset the CO2 associated with the manufacturing, transportation and use of control force™ to help ensure it has a netzero impact on the Earth’s climate.
aveda.com $32.00 // randco.com
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Full brows with a hint of color. Ulta Beauty Collection’s multi-purpose Brow Tint fills and conditions all at the same time. The small spoolie brush head fits effortlessly between brow hairs to avoid messy situations. Gel formula dries down to a natural finish.
$12.00 // ulta.com
IN FOR 2024:
HEALTHIER HAIR
LHC Your Next Haircare Obsession. lacedhair.com
UTAH-BASED HAIR EXTENSION BRAND LACED HAIR IS LAUNCHING A BRAND NEW HAIR CARE BRAND, SPECIFICALLY CREATED WITH THE EXTENSION WEARER IN MIND. WE SPOKE TO CEO, LACY GADEGAARD-WEST ABOUT HER NEWEST ENDEAVOR. “We have been a leading hair extension brand for about 14 years now, never sacrificing on quality or education, and always looking for the next hair extension method to make the lives of both stylists and their clients easier, more comfortable, and more beautiful,” explained Lacy. She continued: “The genesis of creating LHC came from our customer service inbox. For years and years, we have had clients reaching out to us, asking for advice on what products to use on their hair extensions – in order to protect their investment and keep their hair looking healthy and natural. “It’s true that not all haircare
products are made equally, especially when it comes to how they impact extensions. While our extensions are made out of 100% Remy hair, because the hair is not attached to the scalp, the extensions don’t benefit from all the natural oils – so investing in the right hair care is essential. After long enough we thought, why not create our own haircare line that we can stand behind and ensure all our clients can rest easy knowing their hair is in good hands.” Check out the first product launches from Laced Hair Care:
Hydrating Oil Protects hair against free-radicals and daily styling damage, traps 90% of unwanted odor molecules, with a weightless, non-greasy formula.
Conditioning Masque Fights frizz and smooths cuticle, offering a lightweight yet rich formula for intense hydration.
Scalp Serum Helps to restore scalp integrity and create visibly thicker, fuller hair, with a spreadable and lightweight formula. The first batch of Laced Hair Care products are available for presale at lacedhair.com now! Follow @laced.hair.care and @lacedhairextensions for updates.
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ANTOINETTE BEENDERS @ANTOINETTEBEENDERS
LOCATION// MINNEAPOLIS, MN ROLE// SENIOR VP OF GLOBAL ARTISTRY AT AVEDA YEARS IN THE INDUSTRY// 40+
ICON
Antoinette Beenders 42
SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT OF GLOBAL ARTISTRY AT AVEDA, GLOBAL MULTI-AWARD-WINNING STYLIST AND ART DIRECTOR, ANTOINETTE BEENDERS IS CERTAINLY A HERO WITHIN THE HAIR INDUSTRY AND A ROLE MODEL, ESPECIALLY FOR WOMEN IN THIS INDUSTRY. ANTOINETTE SHARED HER STORY, HER WISDOM, HER ADVICE, AND HER CURRENT HAIR OBSESSIONS. Antoinette’s journey in the hair industry started nearly 40 years ago in Holland when Antoinette was just 14. She explained: “I think the reason I was initially intrigued with hair is because I come from a family with naturally fine hair. So, every Saturday, I would accompany my mother to the salon to have her hair blow-dried in one of the best salons in the Netherlands. I just really enjoyed being in that environment, the techniques, all the different hair textures, and so on. When I was about 12, I taught myself how to braid – this was before YouTube, remember. “When I was 14, my mom asked at her salon if I could help out on Saturdays. They agreed, and I began my journey, like many, many hairdressers, washing floors, sweeping hair, making coffees and teas, and I loved it. I loved being around all of the talented artists, but I also really liked all the transformations that I saw.” On Wednesday nights, the salon held model nights, and so when Antoinette was just 14, she was allowed to start learning and practicing the art of hair. She said: “Then, of course, I taught myself how to blow out my mom’s hair. All of my family have been guinea pigs, let me tell you that!” Antoinette laughed. It wasn’t just Antoinette’s mother who helped her realize her dreams and passions. Her dad was a photographer. “Early on in my life, I could be found with my dad in photographic studios – since I was probably two years old. I still remember the smell of a dark room.” Creativity was in Antoinette’s blood, and she said: “I think hairdressing gave me the platform to become a creative director and eventually come back to the photo studio.” But we will come back to that. Antoinette finished high school and a vocational
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qualification in hairdressing, all while working in the salon in her free time. By the time she turned 19, it was time for her next adventure and challenge, so Antoinette moved to the UK to work with Trevor Sorbie, one of Britain’s most renowned and acclaimed hairdressers and salon owners. “In Holland, I was trained very much in the French style of hairdressing, so when I arrived in the UK, I ended up completely retraining under Trevor Sorbie, learning the British way of cutting hair. I went right back to being a junior again, which was a big change. After about six months, I passed my trade test, and I ended up becoming Trevor’s assistant for several years.” It was then, that Antoinette began to start winning awards. “I remember being nominated for Newcomer of the Year in 1993. Then in 1995, I won my first British Hairdressing Award, as Avant Garde Hairdresser of the Year. Followed by ’96 and ’97 when I won London Hairdresser of the Year. And in 1999, I was the first solo female hairdresser to be nominated for British Hairdresser of the Year. The ‘90s were very good to me.” After 11 of working with Trevor Sorbie, traveling all over the world, and learning the ins and outs of the industry, Antoinette felt it was time to start building her own name. It was around this time in the late ‘90s that Antoinette met Horst Rechelbacher, the founder of Aveda. Antoinette said: “Aveda had just launched in the UK, and they wanted to open a flagship store in Harvey Nichols. Aveda was (and still is) a revolutionary haircare brand, as especially at that time, using natural products in those days was unheard of. So, I decided to join Horst on his crusade to change the world.”
“TREVOR SORBIE TAUGHT ME HOW TO DO HAIR. HORST RECHELBACHER TAUGHT ME EVERYTHING I KNOW ABOUT HOLISTIC AND NATURAL HAIR CARE. AND LEONARD LAUDER TAUGHT ME EVERYTHING ABOUT BUSINESS.”
Antoinette spent the next few years helping to solidify the Aveda name in the UK, while also solidifying her own. In 2004, she finally took home her coveted British Hairdresser of the Year Award. As one milestone was completed for Antoinette, it was onto the next. By this point, Horst Rechelbacher had sold Aveda to Estee Lauder, and in 2000 they appointed the company’s first president, Dominique Conseil. Dominique was looking for someone who knew the brand well to become Creative Director, and of course, Antoinette was a clear choice. “In 2005 I moved to New York to become Aveda’s Creative Director, becoming responsible for graphic design, packaging design, store design, and the general image of a global brand. That was interesting because again, I had to learn a whole new job. Having been an editorial hairdresser, I had the experience of imagery and bringing a vision to life." “In 2014, I was taken under the wing of Mr Leonard Lauder himself, and he taught me all about brand equity. I learned so much from him. If you were to ask me about my role models, and the people who helped to form my career, I would say Trevor Sorbie taught me how to do hair. Horst Rechelbacher taught me everything I know about holistic and natural hair care. Leonard Lauder taught me everything about business.” Antoinette’s strength and balance between her hair prowess, business sense, and commitment to natural ingredients and sustainability are a strong parallel to the Aveda brand itself. “I was first drawn to Aveda because of the results it offered – it was well regarded in the editorial world. But after meeting Horst, and hearing him speak so passionately about sustainability and natural ingredients, that’s what really made me want to join his crusade.” Coming to the present day, Antoinette’s life as the Senior VP of Global Artistry can take her anywhere, from collaborating with Stella McCartney or Iris van Herpen, to mentoring the Global Aveda Artistic Teams, preparing for the yearly Aveda Congress and, to helping to create and trial new product launches. Meanwhile, Antoinette has not stopped winning awards. In 2023, she took home the International Stylist of the Year at the BHAs and joined the Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s Hall of FAME too.•
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WORDS OF WISDOM
My Advice for the next generation is… 1. Follow your gut. 2. Say yes to every opportunity that comes your way. In my early days, I said no to a few things, because I thought they weren’t cool enough, and you know what, that doesn’t work. Trust me, I’ve tried it. 3. Be 100% your authentic self. Don’t try and pretend to be someone else. You are unique as you are. 4. Be patient. These days, we all want things to happen overnight, but that’s not how it works. The best advice I’ve received is… Trevor Sorbie used to say to me, whatever you put in will always come back to you. It is so true. Whatever energy, love, and passion you put into something, will always come back. You have just got to be patient for it. Trust the process. Something I wish I could go back in time and tell my younger self is… Believe in yourself. I think hairdressers, and women in general, sometimes have a hard time trusting and believing in themselves. It took me a long time to trust myself and gain confidence. I used to get intimidated. I would also tell my younger self to enjoy the journey. Don’t worry, it always works out. One way or another, it will always work out. My desert island product is… Well, Aveda has over 600 products, so it is hard to pick just one. But if I had to choose one desert island product, it would be Control Force. This was a product that I wanted to create, but it took seven years to develop. The outcome, in my opinion, is the most amazing, environmentally conscious, humidity-proof, stronghold, high-shine hairspray in the world. I can create anything with it, so that’s one I couldn’t live without. Innovation alert… Another product I want to shout out is Aveda’s Botanical Repair range, which are bond-building product. This range of products is a great example of Aveda’s highperformance innovation based on natural biochemistry. My favorite trends for 2024 are… 1. Luxe Hair – This look is all about polished, effortless, shiny, understated glamour. A little trick I use to create this look is to prep my client with a double gloss treatment with colorless gloss. 2. The ‘90s It-Girl Cut – This look is based a bit on Linda Evangelista’s look from the ‘90s. I think it is going to be refreshing to see short hair make a comeback, revitalizing a lot of the cutting techniques and muscles that we haven’t needed to flex much in the last few years. •
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“THE NEXT GENERATION” FEATURE IS ALL ABOUT SHINING A SPOTLIGHT ON SOME OF THE UP-ANDCOMING ARTISTS IN THE INDUSTRY, LEADERS OF THE NEW GENERATION OF HAIRDRESSERS, AND THE MOVERS AND SHAKERS WHO ARE BREAKING NEW TRAILS IN THIS EVERCHANGING INDUSTRY.
SHAI SHAI
AGE// 26
LOCATION// HOLLYWOOD, FL SALON// SEVEN18 BARBER LOUNGE
NXTGEN YEARS CUTTING// 3
Shai Shai Growing up, Maui, HI, native, Shai Shai had always been interested in the beauty industry, hair, makeup, and barbering. She said: “I remember every day watching my dad shave his face and being so amazed. Throughout the years I've enjoyed getting my friends ready for life events, such as banquets, proms, gender reveals, weddings, shows, and the list goes on! I grew to love sharing special moments with people I love while doing something I love.” In order to take her career to the next step, Shai Shai recently made the big move off island to Hollywood, FL – expanding her creative potential. As a hybrid barber and stylist, I asked Shai what areas of the industry have particularly caught her interest. She said: “I love barbering and short hair because of the light, dark, and negative space. I’m able to relate it to music, art, makeup, fades, and coloring. I love all things creative, fashionable, and groovy — especially when I can find deeper connections with our culture and community.” One of the ways Shai Shai has been able to kickstart her career and get her name out there has been through the opportunity to be involved in Byrd Mena and SharpFade’s Freshman Class
contest. I asked Shai to tell us a bit about the program and how she got involved. She explained: “My first show ever as a professional was the Connecticut Barber Expo in May 2022, where I met Byrd Mena, someone I looked up to as a fashion icon, leader, and artist. A few months later, I saw that he had a show of his own, called Rise of Hair in St. Pete, FL. This show would be my very first time traveling alone across the country from Hawai’i for hair. There, I was blessed to gain a hair family and be a hair model for the person who would become my barber, inspiration, brother, and friend, Esbebe. I was inspired by him and everyone at this event to create a collection of my own one day. I saw the Sharpfade Freshman contest come out soon after and decided to try it out.” With the Freshman Class contest, Byrd’s goal is to showcase the next generation of up-andcoming artists in the hair industry. Three winners for the Freshman Class were chosen from a huge pool of entrants, based on their creative touch. To enter, creatives needed to capture and submit a collection inspired by Byrd Mena’s Oxygen collection, showing how they could create their own original take on Byrd’s concept.
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“THROUGHOUT THE PROCESS, I LEARNED THAT CREATING TAKES OUR ENTIRE SOUL. I LEARNED THAT OUR CREATIONS REPRESENT NOT ONLY OURSELVES, BUT OUR COMMUNITY, FAMILIES, AND WHERE WE COME FROM.”
Shai Shai told a little bit about her winning collection: “Creating a collection of my own was the hardest I've ever worked on a hair project and gave my all in. After watching the Oxygen collection video many, many, times, I thought about how I could relate the theme to my own life and the things I love most and am proud of. “As an artist, the three things I have always held close to my heart are my culture, community, and the arts. When I first heard the theme, Oxygen, I immediately thought of Hā- translated literally as “to breathe, exhale; breath, life," a term we hold so close to a practice called honi-an exchange of breath, life, scent, touch, energy—on which we build pilina, a relationship or connection. This Pilina is what I enjoy most about being in the hair industry, the relationships I get to build with every person in my chair and every chair I get the honor of sitting in. It’s what’s brought me to other artists in my industry, in Hawai’i, and even the world. Pilina was present on this shoot, and together with hair, is what brought everyone who was a part of this project into my life. “The models are adorned in lei lā'ī (ti leaf lei), which were all picked from my wahi pana (sacred place) at my home in Waihe'e, Maui by myself, my mom and cousin, who also helped me prep/ debone/boil/cut/weave every leaf into these long strands of lei. They are woven in the wili style – two strands that can represent the everlasting values and traditions of our culture and the constant cycle of fashion trends. Pilina is never-ending, like these lei. The same way we practice our old values today is the same way hair trends are still present, and come and go with time. When the two are twined together, it is beautiful. “Throughout the process, I learned that creating takes our entire soul. I learned that our creations represent not only ourselves, but our community, families, and where we come from. I learned that collections and creative projects take much planning, and takes a village for success. I learned a lot about myself, like how to adapt quickly, make it work, and remain resilient and proud throughout the process no matter how many things don't go as planned.”
Hair// Shai Shai.
SHAI SHAI’S TOP TRENDS:
Photography// Ikaika Mahone & Mar Mizunaka. Models // Mar Mizunaka, Keilana Mokulehua, Alex Carmona, Kalei Mahone, Kolten Prentice.
“I've grown to love and appreciate shear work and short haircuts. I love comparing hair trends, especially after recently moving across the country. I love any time a client gives me creative freedom, anything to do with bright, fun, fashion colors that will make heads turn!”
SHAI SHAI’S PICKS:
WHAT’S NEXT FOR SHAI SHAI?
“I plan on continuing to build meaningful and lifelong connections through the chair, the hair industry, and beyond. I plan on attending more events, shows, and classes, and diving deeper into haircutting, hair coloring, and the creative side of hair which I love!”
“Some essential products that help me with my work and give me confidence in creating transformations when blonding include Brazilian Bond Builder and k18 hair. I love Danger Jones for direct dyes! My favorite clippers at the moment (and since always) are my Wahl Magic Clips! (Also the reason I met Byrd Mena, is he interviewed me about Magic clips at my first CT Barber expo!)”
SHAI SHAI’S ADVICE:
SHAI SHAI’S HEROES:
“JUST DO IT, and JUST BE YOU! The world is full of what-if's, and you never know unless you try. I did this collection as a testament to myself, as a woman, kanaka (Native Hawaiian), to set a bar and to “see what happens.” This project was not only a way to see what I was capable of, but a way of understanding my identity more, finding connections between hair and my culture, and showing the rest of the world the beauty of my home, Hawai'i.”
“There are too many to name! I closely follow many people in the industry and look up to them all for different reasons, I can talk about them all day. Some of my inspirations include Los Cut it, Marvy Marv, Sofie (Staygold), Taylor Leven, Chris Bossio, Byrd Mena, Esbebe, Peter Puertas, Kimberly Ibbotson, and the list goes on. I truly honor the artists who make me the artist that I am today.”
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HAIR LINGERIE, THE STUDIO
LOCATION// SANTA MONICA BLVD, LOS ANGELES, CA. FURNITURE// MODERN MIRRORS, MINERVA . INSTAGRAM// @HAIRLINGERIETHESTUDIO.LA. BRANDS// HAIR LINGERIE, MILBON
{S A L ON F OCUS}
MASTER EXTENSION SPECIALIST RYAN SANGER IS THE MAN BEHIND THE FIRST EXCLUSIVE LUXURY SALON FOR THE BRAND HAIR LINGERIE. SMALL BUT MIGHTY, AND WITH THE SUPPORT OF THE SOLA SALON STUDIO COMMUNITY, BOTH RYAN AND HIS STUDIO HAVE MADE A NAME FOR THEMSELVES, PROVING BIGGER IS NOT ALWAYS BETTER. 48
At Hair Lingerie the Studio, it is believed that the epitome of luxury is exclusivity. So, at the studio, they exclude everything that doesn’t add to the positive experience of the client. It’s all about using the best of the best for owner Ryan Sanger, and there’s no compromising on that for his clients. So, let’s get to know Ryan. He told us: “When I was seven years old, my hairstylist aunt gave me my first mannequin head and it was my favorite thing to play with. I would put it in rollers and braid it. I was obsessed. When I was 14, I had the opportunity to go to Smith Vocational and Agricultural High School. At this vocational school, it allowed me to do Hair school in high school at the exact same time, I got an extensive education and was able to start my career much earlier and more prepared than the average.” He continued: “I have always been a perfectionist, wanting to perfect my craft, and that helped transcend me through the industry, working in Boston, and then moving to Los Angeles and discovering a whole new world of hair. On my journey in my career, I have always been open and have found mentors, and still to this day, take a student role whenever I'm around someone who I look up to. Observing all of that knowledge, and skills and learning from them, have all been pivotal parts of how I got here today.” Ever since that first mannequin head, Ryan has been obsessed with transformations, and they are a common thread throughout his career. So, the day he discovered the transformational qualities of hair extensions, he was hooked. But it was when he moved to LA and started working with Hair Lingerie’s founder, Kiara Bailey, and started using Hair Lingerie extensions, that Ryan’s passion really took off. He said: “I knew I had a special talent for extensions because no one could tell any of my clients were indeed wearing hair extensions. The perfectionist in me needed to ensure that every single client’s extensions were perfectly color-matched matched expertly fitted so that the transformation was as seamless as possible.” As time went on and Ryan continued to create transformative looks with Hair Lingerie extensions, he knew he wanted to take his career one step further, opening his own studio that focused on extensions. He said: “I completely fell in love with the feeling of giving clients that immediate confidence boost when they saw themselves with extensions, and I wanted to give that confidence to everybody. I also noticed that I was making more
money in less time, raising my annual income year after year, without increasing the amount of time I was working. It just appealed to my creative brain and my business brain!” So, with the blessing of Kiara Bailey from Hair Lingerie, and with the support from Sola Salon Studios – an organization that supports independent beauty professionals offering customizable studio spaces, business support, and community – Ryan opened Hair Lingerie the Studio. He told us a little bit about his studio: “At the studio we offer luxury hair extension services, exclusively using Hair Lingerie extensions allowing us to create a completely customized look for each individual client. From the custom color, texture, and application, in a way you are not able to do with any other extensions. Hair Lingerie was the first
“HAIR LINGERIE WAS THE FIRST TAPE EXTENSION CREATED. THEY WERE CREATED SPECIFICALLY OUT OF THE NEED FOR AN EXTENSION THAT WILL NOT DAMAGE FINE, THIN HAIR WHILE BEING DISCREET AND SEAMLESS. IT'S WHY IT'S CALLED HAIR LINGERIE: ‘IT'S A PRIVATE ACCESSORY. NO ONE KNOWS WHAT YOU'RE WEARING.’”
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“I ALWAYS SAY THAT GOING INDEPENDENT WITH SOLA SALON STUDIOS IS FOR THOSE PEOPLE WHO ARE NATURAL GO-GETTERS. THOSE PEOPLE WHO WANT MORE AND WILL DO MORE, PEOPLE WHO WANT TO HAVE MORE CONTROL OF THEIR LIFE, INCOME, AND ENVIRONMENT. [...] JUST DO IT.”
tape extension created. They were created specifically out of the need for an extension that will not damage fine, thin hair while being discreet and seamless. It's why it's called Hair Lingerie: ‘It's a private accessory. No one knows what you're wearing.’” He continued: “The aesthetic is clean and bright, with natural light, and modern crisp lines. The space is decorated with thriving plants, crystals ]galore to enhance the studio's energy, and music chosen to fit the client's desired vibe. When thinking about the energy of the salon, I wanted a place where clients can come to get away from the crazy world, relax, and have the experience they desire, before going back out into the world, feeling better and more confident.” So, what makes Ryan’s studio unique from the other LA salon’s offerings? He said: “The first thing that makes us different is, of course, our Hair Lingerie extensions. They are known for being the best in the industry among celebrity clientele and high-net-worth individuals. The Premier Custom hair that we use is exclusive to us as well. “Another thing that makes us unique is the fact that the studio was designed in a post2020 world. Since the Pandemic, the mindsets and desires of clients as well as stylists have changed. So, in the studio, we focus on an intimate, exclusive experience with clients. No clients are double booked. Each client is
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welcomed to the studio with a handwritten note and branded chocolate for their arrival. Before they even arrive at the studio, they have the option to fill out our appointment preference form so we can customize their experience around exactly what they’re looking for, from the music, vibe, beverages, add-on services, and more.” Studio-style salons have been becoming more and more popular since the pandemic, and many business owners like Ryan are turning to Sola Salon Studios to help turn their goals into reality. Ryan told us a bit about his experience: “Working with Sola salons has been incredible. One of the best decisions I made was partnering with Sola Salon Studios to open my studio, and then also becoming one of the “Faces Of Sola 2023”. It has allowed me to break the old mold of the industry and quadruple my revenue in just a few years. Being part of the Sola community as a business owner has been amazing. You have all kinds of talent right around you you can cross-network with those same people as well as get referrals. Also, to have a group of people around you that on some level know exactly what it is like to be in your shoes and running a business allows for a really nice and understanding community. Whether you talk to everyone are more to yourself there's something connecting all of us. “I always say that going independent with Sola Salon Studios is for those people who are natural go-getters. Those people who want more and will
do more, people who want to have more control of their life, income, and environment. If you have thought about it multiple times and you have the revenue to do it, I always say jump and do it. “I standby Sola because just like Hair Lingerie, they were the first to do something new in their industry, creating a new model and product that helped change hairstylists' ability, to make money, be in charge of their own business, environment, and ultimately their life. Still to this day, they are a leader in the Salon studio space and the independent hairstylist movement. That is a company I can respect the hell out of.” Ryan’s advice for running a successful salon studio business, and where to start: “First, you need to make sure that you have the clientele and revenue that it takes to run the business in the first place. After determining that you need to do your research, you need to go to the top and very best salons spas boutiques, restaurants, and hotels, and take notes on their client experience and how they make you feel – writing down the tangible things they do. Write down notes about the decor that you enjoy and visuals of the smell. Take everything from that that you enjoyed and figure out how to apply it to your studio. It will create a fantastic client, experience and environment that you and the client will want to be in and will help increase your revenue. Remember you want to stimulate your client's five senses. Sound, touch, sight, hearing, taste.” •
NEED TO KNOW FURNITURE// Minerva PRODUCTS// Biogramming Tools, Ergo Super Gentle Round Brushes, Hair Lingerie, Milbon, Epres. BOOKING SOFTWARE// Vagaro
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SALT LAKE CITY {EVO IN THE CIT Y}
THE CAPITAL AND LARGEST CITY IN UTAH, SALT LAKE CITY IS KNOWN FOR ITS NATURAL LANDSCAPE AND IS ALSO HOME TO A BOOMING BEAUTY INDUSTRY, AS A HUB HAIR EXTENSION BRANDS AND BEAUTY BUSINESSES.
As Salt Lake City’s first Waterless Nail salon, Jessica Burleson started Topcoat Nail bar in 2014, with a drive to empower individuals to find their inner beauty, and to inspire success in professionals in the nail industry. Topcoat Nail Bar provides guests a nail salon experience that is focused on medical grade sanitation, vegan, organic, fairtrade, and sustainably sourced spa products, eco-friendly services, exceptional nail artistry, as well as gourmet snacks!
TOPCOAT NAIL BAR OWNER Jessica Burleson BRANDS Sparitual, Orly Gel APPOINTMENTS Zenoti
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Education is at the forefront at Topcoat, and classes and workshops are held monthly for all nail technicians and apprentices to ensure that their techniques and artistry is up to scratch, as well as their sanitation and cleanliness practices. Topcoat also prides itself on being an inclusive business, accepting of everyone. Jessica said: “Love is always the answer and everyone deserves to be loved and respected. That is the
culture we conduct ourselves in at Topcoat. Because of this you will find a wide variety of individuals from all walks of life performing your nail services. We have created a safe space that is all inclusive of any race, religion, age, sexual orientation, relationship status, gender identity, etc to ensure all our guests feel 100% comfortable while they are with us at Topcoat.” Get inspired by some of the Topcoat teams nail art at @topcoat_nail_bar.
LACED HAIR SALON OWNER Lacy Gadegaard-West BRANDS Laced Hair Extensions, Kevin Murphy APPOINTMENTS Boulevard
Laced Hair Salon is a luxury fullservice salon specializing in color and extensions. It was founded by Lacy Gadegaard-West in 2016. Lacy is also the creator of the hair extension brand, Laced Hair as well as Lac[ED] Academy. Lacy told us: “I like to say, ‘I’m a stylist by trade and a CEO by accident.’” After working as a celebrity stylist in Las Vegas, Lacy found a gap in the market in terms of extensions brands that offered proper training, high quality hair, healthy, and natural looking extensions. So, she started Laced Hair. From there the brand has
grown and grown, but if you want to see the epicentre of Laced, you’ve got to check out Laced, The Salon. The salon carries a full line of Laced Hair Extentions in house, including Laced by Hand, Hand Tied Wefts, Machine Sewn wefts, Keratin, I-Tip, Tape In and the brand’s famous I-DO Clip-In extensions. The salon is also known for its salon services such as coloring, cutting, braiding, and updo's. Laced Hair Salon is also home to the Salt Lake City Lac[ED] Academy classes, such as the Keratin & I-Tip
101 certification running on February 12th. This full day course will include a start-to-finish installation utilizing both methods on a live model. Throughout the demonstration, educators will review the benefits of each method, and how to determine the ideal extension fit for each client. Demonstrations will be followed by individual hands-on practice and training on pricing and social media too. If you want to find our more about Laced Hair Extensions and Laced Academy you can check out lacedhair.com
CREATE. THE COLLECTIVE OWNERS Tamara Morgan & Brandi Holdaway BRANDS Kevin.Murphy APPOINTMENTS Square Appointments
Founded in 2020 by co-owners Tamara Morgan and Brandi Holdaway, the goal of CREATE. The Collective is to be a progressive space for serious and talented stylists to call their home. Education is key at CREATE. The Collective, for both the stylists within The Collective, as well as for independent stylists who attend education sessions held in the CREATE. The Collective Space. The owners told us: “We show our stylists they are the core
of our foundation offering a strong support system, substantial perks, training, other modalities of work to generate revenue such as our on-site team, growth opportunity assistance, and as always following our mission of providing an engaging, inclusive, creative, and inspiring space.” The atmosphere within CREATE. The Collective is open floor-plan, filled with natural light, and earthy touches. As a whole, CREATE is committed
to providing a welcoming environment for all guests, regardless of age, race, gender or sexual orientation, and they offer prices based on services, rather than the client’s demographic characteristics. CREATE. The Collective offer a wide range of treatments and services, from cuts and colors to extension services, waxing services, as well as makeup. CREATE. also have an onlocation team who are available for hair and makeup services for events and weddings.
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LONDON {S A L ON A BROA D}
BLUE TIT SALONS, LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM EST//2011. LOCATIONS // 12. FURNITURE// TAKARA BELMONT, MALETTI, MODULO. @ BLUETITLONDON BRANDS// OWAY
BLUE TIT SALONS ARE A COLLECTION OF 12 AWARD-WINNING BOUTIQUE HAIR SALONS IN LONDON, WITH INCREDIBLE INTERIORS FORMING AN ATTRACTIVE AND CREATIVE HUB FOR ITS EXPERT STYLISTS AND COLORISTS. Blue Tit started life in 2011, opening its first hair salon in the heart of Dalston in London. One of the earliest boutique salons to open on East London’s famous Kingsland Road, it quickly became the go-to hairdressers in Dalston for the area’s many creatives and musicians. They currently have 12 salons in total, Dalston, Clapham, Peckham, Brixton, East Village, Portobello, Brockley, Streatham, Crouch Hill, Greenwich, Leyton, and most recently, Woolwich. We spoke to Andi Hinteregger, the director at Blue Tit Salons about the inspiration behind the Blue Tit design. “All our salons have unique, individual designs. We like to take inspiration from the location the salon is situated in, and if the property itself has got interesting features then we try to work with them. “When we first opened, the aim was to create a living room-like atmosphere rather than one of a traditional hair salon. A comfortable and relaxed atmosphere is still on the forefront of our philosophy, combined with the highest possible customer service and well-trained stylists.
Individual personalities will create a certain atmosphere in the salon and although we want to ensure the same quality of customer service across all salons, we also champion and encourage individuality – we don’t want everyone and every salon to be the same.” “Since all salons have their own design, there are many different brands of furniture we are working with. The majority of our salons have Maletti and Takara Belmont chairs – they are of incredibly good quality.
“For our sinks, we use EcoHeads to save water. We reduce around 1,350,000 litres of water wastage a year by using them. “We are the global creative directors of Oway - the Italian organic, biodynamic botanical hair care brand, which is the world’s first professional hair care, treatment and color line made with pure essential oils, cruelty-free and with no toxic ingredients. “Oway has recently launched their own furniture line called Modulo. It’s really beautiful and all
“OWAY, OUR CHOSEN ORGANIC HAIR CARE BRAND, REFLECTS OUR COMMITMENT TO DELIVERING TOP-TIER SERVICES WHILE CHAMPIONING THE WELL-BEING OF OUR CLIENTS AND THE PLANET.” 54
“WE ARE THE GLOBAL CREATIVE DIRECTORS OF OWAY – THE ITALIAN ORGANIC, BIODYNAMIC BOTANICAL HAIR CARE BRAND, WHICH IS THE WORLD’S FIRST PROFESSIONAL HAIR CARE, TREATMENT AND COLOR LINE MADE WITH PURE ESSENTIAL OILS, CRUELTYFREE AND WITH NO TOXIC INGREDIENTS.” sustainably designed and hand crafted within the Oway factory in Bologna, Italy.” When Blue Tit Salons opened their doors, the economic climate was somewhat different to what it is today. Andi continues: “We opened the doors to our first salon in Dalston in 2011. It helped that it was just the end of the recession and East London was thriving. Not long after we opened our salon in Clapton where our Blue Tit Academy is based. We had our friends working with us and it was a very fun but hard-working environment. “Soon we realized the benefits of opening a salon in an area just before it was up and coming. That way we could negotiate fair rent deals and arrive in areas before our competition. “The key was the atmosphere in the salon. Not only for clients but also for our colleagues. I could go on much longer about the growth in the first couple of years, but the main thing was really about having fun at work!” The Royal Arsenal Riverside, with its picturesque riverfront and ongoing development, sets the stage for the 12th Blue Tit salon. Following the success of their Greenwich venture, Lee and John are eager to bring their brand of excellence to this dynamic locale.
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Led by Lee and John, this marks their second venture, following the successful launch of their Greenwich salon just two years ago. "Woolwich Arsenal is rapidly evolving with the introduction of the Queen Elizabeth Line, making it a central hub for professionals on the go. Just a stone’s throw from the station, our salon is perfectly poised to cater to the vibrant energy of the area’s thriving community." Lee, Co-Owner of Blue Tit Woolwich, is excited about joining the Royal Arsenal Riverside community. “We’re here for all hair types, and with our organic hair care brand Oway, we’re aligning seamlessly with the sustainable ethos of the Berkeley estate. "Oway, our chosen organic hair care brand, reflects our commitment to delivering top-tier services while championing the well-being of our clients and the planet." Lee and John prioritize creating an environment that reflects the essence of Blue Tit. “The salon’s design is crucial to us. We wanted to craft a space that’s both sleek and inviting,” they explain. The salon’s aesthetic complements the surrounding area, providing a haven for clients to relax and enjoy a personalized hair care experience."
STYLING STATIONS
MINIMALIST DESIGN, MAXIMIZING SPACE After a hurricane submerged VolumeONE in 10 inches of water, owner Hurst was forced to redesign the space and replace all the furniture. The VolumeONE aesthetic is high-class and sleek, so each styling station is needed to fit the brief. "Pensacola is a small town, so we wanted to bring the feel of a big city into the salon.” When designing the stations, due to the small space, Hurst didn’t want the chairs to be too bulky. “We want our clients, even though they’re close together, to have their own space and not feel like it’s too crowded.” As a gender-neutral salon, Hurst also wanted to ensure everyone felt welcome: “We needed styling chairs that weren’t too retro like barbershops, but not too dainty either. Collins had the perfect mix of upscale and comfortable, to refine our look.”
THE DANCE OF DESIGN Former dancer and current owner and founder of Studio A Salon, when David and his husband/ business partner were ready to expand their salon to a bigger space, he knew he wanted to take a creative approach. “This is our dream salon. While it is a commercial space, it is still situated in a little neighborhood. So, it feels like a home, just how we wanted it to feel. We collaborated with Brinn Miracle; our architect created the space so that it would flow nicely and feel open with beautiful cathedral ceilings in the middle room.” In a dream salon, you need dream stations. And for David, there was no other choice than Gamma and Bross for the furniture.
STUDIO A SALON LOCATION Houston, TX OWNER David Armenariz THE FURNITURE Gamma and Bross
TO YOUR STATIONS, PEOPLE! FOR ALL HAIRDRESSERS, THERE IS ONE PLACE YOU WILL SPEND MORE TIME THAN ANYWHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD, AND THAT IS AT YOUR SALON STATION.
VOLUMEONE SALON LOCATION Pensacola, FL OWNER Hurst Butts THE FURNITURE Collins
“We decided to go with the premium collection, MG Bross 2021 collection. It is just gorgeous. As soon as I saw it, it reminded me of my dancing years. The mirrors were inspired by ballerina tutus. The trimmings are all gold to match the arches and details in the salon as well. We also had details like our beautiful terrazzo tile in the reception area. I just wanted it to feel like old-school glamour when you walked in.” For all 12 stations, David has the gorgeous Gamma and Bross chairs with the Brass Queen Mary gold bases and the Ballet 2 Collar Island Stations. The shampoo bar also features Gamma and Bross shampoo bowls and shiatsu massage chairs – a much talked about feature.
CREATING A COLLECTIVE
KALON HAIR STUDIO
Kalon Hair Studio is home to a collective of top independent artists, joining together to create a premium salon experience. Owner Kendyll had worked in pretty much every kind of salon environment, a large commission-based salon, to her own salon suite. She felt she missed the energy of working in a salon environment, but didn’t miss her salary being based on commission, so she created Kalon, a chair rental-based salon that puts the needs of the stylists first. Kendyll said: “Our goal was a salon space that felt different than the salons in our area, but one that all independent stylists felt comfortable in. “For salon furniture and equipment, Minerva Beauty was my go-to, for everything from chairs, and backwashes to heat lamps and floor mats.” Each station also features lockable storage cabinets and drawers, so each stylist can keep their own styling products and tools safe and organized.
LOCATION Columbus, OH OWNER Kendyll Lacko THE FURNITURE Minerva
This is a place where you will make masterpieces and mistakes, fix heartbreaks, laugh, cry, and get arm cramps from one too many blowdries. This is your sanctuary. So, let’s make it a good one. For this issue, in our interior focus, we want to look back on some of the best styling stations we have encountered, why we love them, and what tips and inspiration you can pull to make your station just that much better.
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THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN CREATING STATIONS:
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LIGHTING Lighting is critical when designing a salon space, especially at each station. You want each station to feel well-lit so the stylist can clearly see the task at hand, while lighting that is too bright and clinical can detract from an inviting and comforting atmosphere. A combination of backlit mirrors and soft, warm overhead lighting can be a great way to create your desired aesthetic, while still allowing stylists and clients to view the true tones and details of the haircut. Also, keep social media in mind. Are you likely to be taking clients' pictures at your stations, or even filming the process? You might want to consider investing in a ring light setup. However, having ring lights set up can truly be an eyesore in a salon. Perhaps consider a mirror with built-in and adjustable LED lighting.
CRAFT YOUR VISION
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STORAGE It is so easy to become blind to mess when you are looking at the same environment all day, every day. But your clients aren’t looking at your stations all day, so first impressions matter! Having ample storage is essential for efficient work, as well as maintaining an aesthetically pleasing station. Optimize storage by installing wall-mounted or rack shelving, installing hooks or pegs within cupboards, and ensuring there is space for all necessities within reach of the styling station, like styling tools, scissors, combs, brushes, and the most frequently used styling products. Save open spaces at eye-level for the products you are using on your client that day, that way they are more likely to purchase at the end of the service.
Craft your salon vision with Collins. Customizable, handcrafted furniture built in the USA. Create a stylish, comfortable space that reflects your unique style and sparks success.
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MIRRORS A salon mirror is another important investment in your salon. While mirrors can be purchased at a number of retail and home improvement stores, remember, not all mirrors are created equally. Consider the shape: circular styling mirrors are a great option because they provide a wider view, allowing the stylist to see the entire head of hair, they also create a nice focal point, framing the client’s hair and face. Full-length mirrors can create a modern and cool design, but keep in mind the clients’ privacy as their whole body will be reflected. This choice also limits options for shelf space or storage. Full wall mirrors can be a great option as they can allow you to add or take away styling chairs based on the business or the day and the salon. But it can detract from the intimacy and privacy of an appointment.
COLLINS.CO Philip Pelusi Salons
#COLLINSCRAFTED 57
SESSION STYLING
FOR MANY STYLISTS, THE THOUGHT OF BECOMING A SESSION, CELEBRITY, RUNWAY, AND OR EDITORIAL STYLIST IS A BUCKET LIST ITEM, BUT IS IT AS GLAMOROUS AS IT LOOKS? THIS ISSUE, WE ARE HERE TO DEMYSTIFY AND PEEK BEHIND THE CURTAIN OF SESSION STYLING BY SPEAKING TO SOME OF THE BEST IN THE BIZ. 58
IS SESSION STYLING THE RIGHT ROUTE FOR YOU? FOR LA-BASED HAIR ARTIST, CELEBRITY, AND EDITORIAL STYLIST OWEN GOULD, IT CERTAINLY WAS. WE SPOKE TO OWEN ABOUT HIS JOURNEY INTO THE WORLD OF SESSION, HIS ADVICE ON HOW TO GET INTO IT, AND WHAT MADE IT THE OBVIOUS PATH FOR HIM.
The
in the
BEAUTY UNKNOWN With just a couple of clicks to Owen’s Instagram page (@owengould), it doesn’t take long to see the kind of calibre of artists, models and celebs he works with on a daily basis, from Julianne Moore, Kristin Dunst, Elle Fanning, Barbara Palvin, Dylan Sprouse…. I could go on. But how did he get to where he is today in his career? And why? Owen said: “It sounds a bit silly, but I really feel like hairdressing is in my blood. If I go too many days without touching a head of hair my fingers get itchy.” Owen said that he knew from an early age that he was destined for career in hair, but he also always knew that he wanted more out of his career than to be behind a chair in the salon. He said: “I, of course, knew it was a necessary step to gain experience, but it was the fashion magazines that were always drawing me in and giving me the inspiration I craved. In those days, W Magazine was like my bible. The editorials by Craig McDean, Steven Klein and Tim Walker blew me away.” It wasn’t long until Owen was determined to get his own work onto the pages of magazine. And like many in search of achieving their big dreams, Owen’s journey began with a move to New York City. Owen explained: “Once I moved to NYC, I was lucky enough to work for a salon owner who also did session styling. She could tell it was something I wanted to do and put me in touch with her agent. This allowed me to start assisting other various artists and gave me an inside look at how a photoshoot works. I remember being so nervous my first time assisting. I carried all my supplies in a vintage suitcase and followed the guy I was assisting everywhere like a shadow. He finally had to tell me to relax a bit!”
After assisting for just a year, and eventually shaking away those beginner’s nerves, Owen was officially signed to an agency, a moment which he pinpoints as his first big break. He said: “A junior agent was building her roster of talent and saw potential in my work. Since then, I’ve had many ‘Pinch-Me’ moments throughout my career, such as working with Natalie Portman, Julianne Moore, or preparing singer, Grimes for the Met Gala. It’s not lost on me how far I’ve come from playing with Barbie’s in my room as a kid.” While for Owen, it was always about getting backstage and on-set of photoshoots, he also acknowledges the pros and cons of both session styling and salon life. He said: “You really can’t compare the two. Session styling is like walking into a new job every single day. No two shoots are alike, so it keeps you on your toes. It’s a whole lot of personalities thrown together with the goal of making a beautiful image.
“SESSION STYLING IS LIKE WALKING INTO A NEW JOB EVERY SINGLE DAY. NO TWO SHOOTS ARE ALIKE, SO IT KEEPS YOU ON YOUR TOES. IT’S A WHOLE LOT OF PERSONALITIES THROWN TOGETHER WITH THE GOAL OF MAKING A BEAUTIFUL IMAGE.” 59
WHAT IS IN OWENS STYLING KIT? Owen may not be nervously carrying around his vintage suitcase anymore, but he does ensure that he always has the best of the best in terms of products and tools with him, no matter the job. When working with his celebrity clients, Owen can often be found using brands like Bumble and Bumble, LolaVie (Jennifer Aniston’s haircare brand), Living Proof, and extension brands such as Luxy Hair and Hidden Crown. What’s the one product Owen would never go to a job without? “I have to have a good volume/texture spray in my kit. I need something to give clean hair that grit I need to be able to build a style. Clean hair can be challenging when you want it to hold.”
“ASSIST AS MANY PEOPLE AS YOU CAN! YOU LEARN SO MUCH SEEING HOW OTHER PEOPLE DO THEIR JOB. THE END RESULT MIGHT BE THE SIMILAR, BUT NO ONE GETS THERE QUITE THE SAME WAY.” “However, on the other hand, salon life allows you a reliable schedule and the opportunity to really build long lasting relationships with your clients.” For Owen, while the unpredictability of session styling brings an element of excitement, in the fact that it is anything but monotonous, this also brings the biggest challenge to the job. “You never know your schedule as a session hairdresser. You can get booked a job three weeks in advance, three days, and sometimes even three hours before. It’s hard to plan accordingly, but you learn how to work around the instability.” Within the world of session, there are also many different aspects and areas within which one can work, from red carpet and special event styling, editorial styling, to advertising campaigns and brand work. Does Owen have a favorite? He said: “I love the creativity that editorial styling allows. It’s the time to
try out that new idea you’ve been toying around with. “Working on advertising campaigns and shoots tends to allow for less creative freedom, but it does allow you the financial stability to take the editorials. “Red carpet is its own beast because once that person walks out the door, you just have to cross your fingers and hope it looks as good in the carpet photos as it did in real life.” So, what’s Owen’s golden advice on getting into the world of session? “Assist as many people as you can! You learn so much seeing how other people do their job. The end result might be the similar, but no one gets there quite the same way. I sometimes wish I’d gotten to assist more of my hair heroes. Instagram has been a great tool for keeping me inspired. I love a good TikTok tutorial as well. You’re never too experienced to learn something new!” •
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TRADITION OF MASTER CRAFTSMANSHIP. SOLINGEN SCISSORS MANUFACTURE SINCE 1928
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Editorial St y l i ng KC Perry
NIKKI PROVIDENCE
From front covers and editorial spreads, to fashion campaigns, Nikki Providence’s work is known and trusted among fashion designers, celebrities, and editors alike. For Nikki, becoming a part of the hair and fashion world meant a way of living and expressing oneself beyond conventions. She explained: “After high school, I was a little bit lost and didn’t know what to do next. I was deeply interested in fashion from a young age, and during my last two years of school, I had started really playing around with my hair and my appearance in a way that really didn’t fit in in my small Indiana town. First, I shaved my head. Then, I started bleaching it and dying it fire engine red, and getting facial piercing – this was the early ‘90s, and I was definitely getting stares when I went out! I decided to go to beauty school almost on a whim – I just wanted to get out into the big wide world the fastest way I could! I knew I wanted to be creative, and I knew I wanted to be around people, and I figured hair was a great way to make all those things happen.” After honing in her skills in cutting, styling and working with all textures, Nikki started getting involved in more regional fashion shows while working at Trio Salon in Chicago. It was then she knew she had found something that truly excited her. She moved to LA, again on a bit of a whim, to kickstart her career in the world of celebrity styling. She landed her first few roles on the set of music videos. When the 2008 financial crisis hit, Nikki then moved to New York and started assisting all over again, this
time working on fashion and beauty photoshoots. She said: “I realized photo sets were much nicer than music video sets, and I absorbed as much as I could in a couple years before moving back home to Los Angeles, where I already had a house and a partner and a life I loved. I got my first agent in 2010 and here we are!” Nikki said: “I didn’t know I wanted this career, because for a long time I had no idea it was an option! I vaguely understood that there were people doing hair for magazines and movies, but that whole world was basically like an imaginary fairytale land to a kid from a small town in the Midwest. What I did know is, I wanted to have a big, exciting, interesting, creative life. Every time I got to try something new, I was inspired to seek out the next thing. And I’ve always kept moving and growing and learning more, always looking for exciting and interesting opportunities.” I asked Nikki what some career highlights have been so far. She said: “So many things come to mind, it’s really hard to pick one highlight. I get to work with so many inspiring people, and go to places that are truly special – photoshoots often happen in the most picturesque corners of the world. The most beautiful place I’ve been to for work (so far) was Tahiti, it was otherworldly beautiful and I was tempted to throw it all away and move there.” Nikki’s Editorial Styling Kit • I love my very small YS Park tail comb. I have little hands and I love using a delicate comb. • My super wide-tooth YS Park comb that I use to comb out waves, to sculpt short hair, or just to move the hair into the place I want. • I have a mousse that I love called TriDesign Fashion Styling Mousse. I've been using it as long as I’ve been doing hair and it’s perfect. • Shaper Hairspray, as long as I have hairspray and a comb, I can make a lot of good things happen. • I love using Olaplex No.6 to prep the hair, or as an air dry cream.
“I JUST WANTED TO GET OUT INTO THE BIG WIDE WORLD THE FASTEST WAY I COULD! I KNEW I WANTED TO BE CREATIVE, AND I KNEW I WANTED TO BE AROUND PEOPLE, AND I FIGURED HAIR WAS A GREAT WAY TO MAKE ALL THOSE THINGS HAPPEN.” 62
Red Carpet
Credit//Photographer of headshot: Stevan Perea
AV I VA J A N S E N P E R E A Founder and CEO of Day Rate Beauty, Aviva’s list of celebrity clientele goes on and on, with her work being seen everywhere from red carpets, editorial spreads, and commercials too, and regular clients like America Ferrara, Chelsea Handler, Melissa McCarthy, Catherine Zeta Jones, and many, many more. Aviva shared: “I never really knew about celebrity hair styling! I knew actresses had their hair done for public appearances, but I guess I never put two and two together. I went to beauty school in San Francisco and moved to LA with a friend who was pursuing acting. I had done some administrative temp work in offices in the Bay Area before I moved to LA. Once I was in Southern California, I learned that glam teams had agents of their own and that the best way to get started was by assisting these established artists. I tried for a year to get on one of these assistant lists, and it was very hard to get in if you didn’t know anyone. So, I decided to get an admin job just to buy some time and pay some bills. I responded to a Craig’s List listing for a “small boutique agency looking for an office assistant”. When I showed up to the interview, I couldn’t believe that it was one of the agencies I had been trying to break onto their hair styling assistant list. I took the job and worked there
for two years, and had the most amazing education on the business side of this industry. “After two and a half years in the office, I realized that I was missing the creativity and artistry and wanted to BE the artist being booked, not being the person to book the artist. So, with the INCREDIBLE support of the owners of the agency and many of the artists that they represented, I started assisting the hair stylists on the roster. I did that for three and a half years and really learned so much from these diverse artists. And I was able to kind of build a comprehensive education of different skills, and ultimately build my own voice in my work and in 2008 I was signed by the same agency as an artist on their roster and have been working ever since.” From that point onward, Aviva’s career has gone up and up. She has had incredible experiences such as working with Zoe Saldana on her 2010 move Colombiana, and travelling all over the world to shoot. In 2020, during the pandemic, Aviva was not one to sit still, instead, she created an entirely new business, Day Rate Beauty. She explained: “Unable to work, I had tried to look to social media to maybe build a bigger presence and have the time to nurture that area, and asked my brother to help me learn
how to “do social” (when I started doing hair there was no social media). He kind of poked around other artists and brands and asked me if I had ever thought of building a beauty brand and I said that I thought that the industry is so over saturated, but that no one had ever modernized the hair and Bobby pin category and styling tools in general. The pins that I had been using in my kit were poorly color matched often coming in black or bronze, flimsy single use products that had plastic tips that would damage your hair, and landfills. I wanted to make something that came in all shades of hair colors in neutral undertones that will color match to whatever color hair you have, be plastic free not doing damage to your hair or the planet, come in packaging that helps you retain the product eliminating single use, and be made domestically to help with carbon footprints. Our pins are made from upcycled stainless steel coated in plant-based nylon and our packaging and shippers are made with materials that are sustainable from start to stop. Over the course of almost 20 years, I have done thousands of updos and my pins are next level strong and I’m just so proud of them.”
WHAT IS IN AVIVA'S STYLING KIT? Spornette Mixed Bristle Brushes - They last forever, their plastic bristles pick up the hair and the boar bristles smooth and style the hair so beautifully. Harry Josh Blow Dryer - This is a powerhouse blow dryer that I can’t live without. Walker Bags - These bags keep everything in my kit organized. They will last you a lifetime and are easy to clean and look very elevated. Elnett Hairspray - Brushable hold with shine Kevin Murphy Bounce Styling Spray - I use this sort of like a primer for makeup. It’s a beautiful light weight styling primer that is not sticky, extends styles, provides the best amount of shine and is workable and buildable with other products.
“AFTER TWO AND A HALF YEARS IN THE OFFICE, I REALIZED THAT I WAS MISSING THE CREATIVITY AND ARTISTRY AND WANTED TO BE THE ARTIST BEING BOOKED, NOT BEING THE PERSON TO BOOK THE ARTIST.” 63
ROZ Foundation Shampoo and Conditioner - This has been a game changer for my hair and I keep recommending it to my clients. It’s all at once, cleansing without being stripping, and mosturizing without being heavy. I’m actually obsessed. GhD Curve Curling Iron - This iron is a must have for me. I can create shiny old Hollywood waves or a modern loose bend.
STEPBYSTEP GET THE LOOK : RED CARPET EDITION Hairstylist Brian Magallones used Oribe Hair Care products to create an elegant yet effortless look on actress Keri Russell as she was nominated for “Actress in a Drama TV Series” at the 2024 Golden Globes. The imperfectly perfect hairstyle complemented the star’s stunning necklace, sleek dress, and sultry makeup. Brian explains, “We wanted to keep the hair elegant, yet cool, to complement her detailed look. I decided to pull the hair back off the face to let the rest of the look shine through.”
Images// brianmagallones
STEP 1 Apply Oribe Royal Blowout Heat Styling Spray throughout damp hair and blow dry hair straight.
GET THE LOOK : RUNWAY EDITION
STEP 2 Once hair is dry, section hair and apply Oribe Maximista Thickening Spray to each section. Use a large barrel curling iron to create for easy, natural waves on each section.
The Puppets & Puppets Spring/Summer 2024 Collection drew inspiration from the Victorian times, creating a play on the surreal and haunting female hair styles in their ghostly and disheveled silhouettes. Oribe Session Stylist, Dylan Chavles achieved this by recreating helmet-like bed head, to put a contemporary twist on the collection.
STEP 3 Apply Oribe Après Beach Wave and Shine Spray throughout the waves for added texture.
STEP 1
STEP 4 Use fingers to comb the hair back and secure in a low ponytail.
First, spritz hair with water until damp to create a part.
STEP 5
STEP 2
Twist the hair around the base of the ponytail and pin into a low knot.
Saturate the hair with Maximista Thickening Spray from roots to ends.
STEP 6
STEP 3 Lightly spray Royal Blowout Heat Styling Spray, creating a gritty hair texture without making the hair too oily or brittle.
Finish the look with Oribe Superfine Strong Hair Spray to set and hold.
STEP 4 Spray the roots on the sides and back of the head with Très Set Structure Spray to create a small and tight hair shape without a greasy feel.
STEP 5 Massage the hair at the part with the palms of your hands, ensuring the hair does not have a defined part but is sitting on top of the head.
STEP 6 Wrap the head with a net until dry, and then remove and apply Royal Blowout Heat Styling Spray or Swept Up Volume Powder Spray.
STEP 7 To finish, apply a large dollop of Curl Gelée for Shine & Definition on the top of the head to mimic an egg being cracked on the head. Do not brush through.
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From Salon to Spotlight: Navigating the Journey of a Session Stylist By DANIELLE KEASLING, @DANIELLE.KEASLING
IN THE VIBRANT BEAUTY LANDSCAPE, AN EXCITING OPPORTUNITY AWAITS BEYOND THE SALON CHAIR: THE DYNAMIC WORLD OF SESSION STYLING AND EDITORIAL WORK. THIS ISN'T JUST FOR THOSE IN ICONIC FASHION CITIES LIKE NEW YORK OR LOS ANGELES. NO MATTER WHERE YOU ARE, THE WORLD OF FASHION AND BEAUTY IS ACCESSIBLE, BRIMMING WITH OPPORTUNITIES FOR SALON PROFESSIONALS READY TO EXPAND THEIR CREATIVE HORIZONS AND MAKE THEIR MARK. Elevate with Editorial Work Imagine styling models for a high-fashion catwalk or collaborating on a brand's campaign set. By creating editorial pieces and building a compelling portfolio, you can enter competitions, attract a high-end clientele, and establish a unique brand presence. You'll elevate your reputation and expand your salon business through visible, high-quality work.
Geography is No Barrier Don't let your location limit your dreams. With fashion weeks and editorial opportunities flourishing globally, the industry is more accessible than ever. Digital platforms have opened doors to learning, collaboration, and showcasing your work worldwide. Whether living in a bustling city or a quiet suburb, session styling is within your reach.
• Shoot Execution: Coordinate the shoot meticulously, managing everything from lighting to model direction. • Post-Production: Refine your photos post-shoot to ensure they're polished and impactful. • Portfolio Presentation: Curate your portfolio to showcase your range and attract top-tier clients.
An Opportunity for Growth Session styling is more than diversifying your skill set; it's about embracing new experiences and growing professionally. Don't hold back if you're passionate about making a foray into the fashion and beauty world. The industry offers many opportunities to showcase your talent and elevate your salon business.
Join the Journey In the world of session styling,
Building Your Portfolio: A Step-by-Step Guide To shift into session styling, mastering the creation of a wellcrafted portfolio is key. Here are the essential steps to follow for every creative project: • Mood Board Creation: Visualize and plan your aesthetic narrative with a mood board. • Team Collaboration: Assemble a team of photographers, makeup artists, and models who share your vision. • Model Selection: Choose models that embody the shoot's aesthetic, energy, and professionalism.
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your vision, technical skill, and ability to collaborate are what set you apart. It's about continuously evolving, staying abreast of trends, and pushing the boundaries of creativity. Whether for high-profile clients or developing personal projects, the principles remain the same. Respect the process, and always aspire to elevate your work to new heights. Don't just dream about fashion and beauty; dive in! Follow @hairbizandbeyond for upcoming details about an empowering masterclass that will transform your skills and vision into reality. You’ll learn from me alongside esteemed session photographer Richard Monsieurs to execute top-notch photo shoots, maximize resources, and produce stunning results without breaking the bank. Stay tuned – your next session could be the one that changes everything! xo, DK
The Underpinnings of
Mastery
AS A STYLIST WORKING WITH MAJOR NAMES AND MAGAZINES, DAMIAN MONZILLO FELT THE INDUSTRY WAS LACKING IN QUALITY TOOLS TO HELP ARTISTS CREATE THEIR HAIR MASTERPIECES, SO HE DID IT HIMSELF. “Educating and creativity runs throughout my entire family,” explained Damian. “Earlier generations of my family connected to the performing arts and education, but my sister and I went into the visual arts as well as education. I went to Art school here in NYC and then, sight unseen I moved to San Francisco. I never planned on being a hairdresser. One fateful night I was working security at a bar when a fight broke out and ended up in the hospital getting six stitches in my head. Newton needed an apple and that experience was the apple I needed to change my life. The next day I found an adult education program where the city paid for beauty school. In the thirty years I’ve been doing hair, it’s been consistently inspiring in every aspect.” Shortly after being in beauty school, Damian had his first experience working with a celebrity – with an opportunity to style the hair of Maya Angelou for Self Magazine. He said: “I never had any intention to become a celebrity stylist, but
working with someone who inspires me gets the best from me. When I had the opportunity to style Maya Angelou, my beauty school director tried to stop me from going. But of course, nothing was going to stop me from that opportunity! I was in such awe of her in every way, that I could barely brush her hair. She was as kind and genuine as you would imagine. A truly pure soul that rose above every challenge that she was faced with. Deeply inspiring!” Since beginning his journey within the hair industry, Damian has been committed to bettering it, through both his education and his products. He said: “I became so frustrated seeing the women in my life wasting so much time using awful tools. They’d throw more pins away than they’d use, and bands would either break their hair or get pulled out. Unfortunately, a band full of broken hair or a bunch of pins that don’t work in the bottom of a handbag is too common. I found that same frustration when I couldn’t accomplish the quality of my ideas because the pins and bands were too weak.
Photography// XYST
Photography// Alexa NY Post
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“Because of this, I was inspired to create a professionally curated brand of pins, bands, and packaging: Hairpins by Damian Monzillo. The line has a professional range, and the steel pins and bands are able to be reused significantly more. Meaning less frustration, more options, and painless styling. Each section of the line is named and colorcoded to give direction and soon education for both professionals and consumers will be available.” Damian's mission has been to better the industry for everyone, from the salon owner to the session stylist. Why? “Each discipline needs its tools to support the demanding and in-the-momentadapting to every option they can create. Taking more time to create a shape that’s going to be seen worldwide is beyond stressful. Knowing you don’t have to worry about how the architecture you built will stay is a relief, to say the least. This creates the option for you to try new ideas because the tools will always be there for you.”
HAIRPINS BY DAMIAN MONZILLO Try Me™ Sample Pack All Together-Black, Brown & Blonde - 53 pieces From 4cm-8.3cm. Includes: three Bungees-two each of Principle, Mettle, Fortitude, Backbone & Subtle Wavy pins. Four each of Backbone, Subtle Straight and Acute Pins. You’ll never need any other pin or bungee!
$10.00 // hairpinsbydamianmonzillo.com
BUMBLE AND BUMBLE THICKENING DRYSPUN TEXTURE SPRAY This translucent dry finishing spray adds volume, lift, and airy texture – instantly. Raw silk powders with light-holding polymers adhere instantly for a softly interlaced texture, making hair look airy, weightless, and effortlessly full.
“UNFORTUNATELY, A BAND FULL OF BROKEN HAIR OR A BUNCH OF PINS THAT DON’T WORK IN THE BOTTOM OF A HANDBAG IS TOO COMMON.”
$36.00 (3.6oz) // bumbleandbumble.com
LUXY HAIR BLACK BRONDE BALAYAGE CURLY PONYTAIL EXTENSION (100G) Give every client in your chair the red carpet treatment. With the Luxy Ponytail Extension you can rest assured your client is getting pure luxury.
$67.60 // luxyhair.com
ANDIS GALAXY DUO Andis introduces the Galaxy series which combines the lightweight Cordless Envy® Li Clipper and the Slimline® Pro Li Trimmer in a stunning Galaxy duo-tone finish. Available individually or as a combo, the Envy® Li Clipper is designed with a slim, ergonomic grip that’s ideal for small and medium-sized hands. A powerful rotary motor delivers 5,500 SPM for all-round polished cuts while its carbon-steel blades adjust from 000 to 1, for perfect tapers, smooth fades and razor-sharp lines.
andis.com
ORIBE FLASH FORM FINISHING SPRAY WAX Create weightless, buildable texture with control and lasting hold. This ultra-fine wax mist adds style, separation and sheen to short cuts and long lengths. Hydrates and conditions while styling, creates airy, buildable texture and definition, tames fluffy hair and adds light sheen.
$42.00 // oribe.com Photography// Rose Callahan
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CURL SPECIALIST AND OLAPLEX GLOBAL AMBASSADOR, CHRISTIN BROWN (AKA CURLFACTOR) HAS BEEN RELYING ON OLAPLEX TO CREATE THE HEALTHIEST, MOST BEAUTIFUL HAIR RESULTS SINCE HER EARLY DAYS AS A HAIRDRESSER. SHE SHARES THE STEPS SHE TAKES TO CREATE PERFECT RESULTS.
Caring for
Curls 68
“MY MAIN GOAL AS AN OLAPLEX AMBASSADOR WAS TO SEE MYSELF, AND HAIRSTYLISTS LIKE ME, AND CLIENTS LIKE MINE, REFLECTED IN THE BRAND. I WANTED PEOPLE TO REALIZE THAT OLAPLEX WAS JUST AS MUCH FOR CURLY-HAIRED PEOPLE, AS IT WAS FOR ANY OTHER TEXTURE OR ETHNICITY.” Before falling into the world of hair, Christin worked as a chef. She had graduated from Cordon Bleu and that’s where she thought she would be for the rest of her working life. But when she met her wife, who was a make-up artist, that’s when Christin’s path took a turn she never would have expected. She explained: “After working as a make-up artist for MAC for a number of years, my wife decided she wanted to branch out and do her own thing, by starting her own on-location make-up company. The problem was, so many calls she was getting were requesting both hair and make-up. She didn’t want to be turning down business, so she said to me, why don’t you just do the hair until I can find a hairstylist? “Four years went by, and I was still doing hair. I thought to myself, what the hell and I doing? I have no formal training in hair! But because of my background as a chef, I knew how to make things look good. And because I am competitive, I want to always do a great job. We got to a point where I was doing hair for people on the most important days of their lives, at the Four Seasons, at the Ritz, and all of these private residences in Santa Barbara – which we found out was the number one wedding destination outside of Hawaii and Las Vegas.” This is when Christin knew that doing hair was the path she wanted to properly pursue. But she said to herself: ‘If I am going to do this, I am going to do this properly, and I am going to do it in a way that speaks to who I am.’ Christin has always loved curls. Not only does she have naturally textured hair, but she said: “One of my favorite things I love most about my wife – among so many things – are her beautiful curls. She is also a Cancer survivor, so there was a time when she lost all of her hair. So, in our family, hair is not just hair, it’s part of my wife’s lived experience.” Fast forward a few years, and Christin is a salon owner, known widely as a specialist in curly hair. She said: “That’s when I started to really invest into the things that were going to take me to the next level, from color products to technology, to haircare. I started working with Olaplex because it was a haircare brand created here in Santa Barbara. And from that point on, I was hooked.” After showing how she utilized Olaplex products, especially on her curly-haired clients, to get stunning and healthy results, Christin was approached by the brand to become a brand ambassador. She said: “My main goal as an Olaplex
ambassador was to see myself, and hairstylists like me, and clients like mine, reflected in the brand. I wanted people to realize that Olaplex was just as much for curly-haired people, as it was for any other texture or ethnicity.” When we think of the words ‘bond building’ often our minds go straight to repairing bond breakage from color services. However, Olaplex’s Bond Building Technology™ is equally effective when repairing any damage to textured hair. Christin explained: “So, the tighter the curl pattern, the more disulfide bonds there are in the hair. Olaplex’s breakthrough formulas are all about relinking these disulfide bonds, which can be broken from anything from coloring to chemical treatments such as perms or relaxers, and even just styling with heat. Education in the salon is that simple. I will have clients that say, 'I don’t color my hair so I don’t need Olaplex', purely because they don’t understand the science, so that is where we come in.” Christin encourages all of her clients to give Olaplex products a try and will create custom product combinations for their hair’s individual needs. She said: “I think us curly people can sometimes get caught in what I call the hungry hippo method, we get so transfixed on finding products that actually work with our hair type, that we buy so many different products from so many different brands, rather than following any sort of regimen. So, I encourage all of my clients to commit to the Olaplex line for at least a month. For pretty much every single client I will recommend the Olaplex No.4 Bond Maintenance® Shampoo and the No.5 Bond Maintenance® Conditioner. My favorite product has got to be the No.9 Bond Protector Nourishing Hair Serum. This product has so much slip that it is beneficial for almost every curl type or texture that I have encountered. I use it on everyone. I even have it in my hair now!” Christin has been using Olaplex for so long that she actually forgot what life was like without it. She shared: “I had been using Olaplex for so long and had so much success with it, that one day I thought I would take a break from using it to see if I actually saw a difference. So, I had a client come in for a lift and color service, and I didn’t use Olaplex throughout the service. And when I tell you her hair felt like straw. I was like ‘Ohhhh, that’s why we use a bond builder.’ and I was immediately back to Olaplex for every single service after that.”
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WE WANTED TO KNOW WHAT CHRISTIN’S AVERAGE SERVICE LOOKED LIKE, AND HOW SHE INTEGRATES OLAPLEX INTO HER ROUTINES ON A DAILY BASIS. SO, HERE ARE THE STEPS CHRISTIN TAKES IN A HIGHLIGHTING SERVICE, AND HOW SHE ACHIEVES HER BRILLIANT RESULTS, TIME AFTER TIME.
The Steps to
Curly Color, with olaplex 1. My first step actually starts before the client even walks in the door of the salon. I really encourage my clients to use the Olaplex line in its entirety before they meet with me for their first session. This way, I can be confident knowing that the hair is healthy and prepped and primed for what I need to do while they’re in my chair. It also takes the pressure off me trying to sell them products after their appointment, because I already know they’ve used it and love it. 2. Then I am going to mix up my lighter. I will do a ratio of 1:2, lightener to developer. I mix it up to its entirety (no lumps or pockets of bleach!) Then I fold in my first portion of Olaplex No.1 Bond Multiplier®. This is like the golden liquid with its bis-amino technology. 3. Now it’s time to start painting the hair. I am usually doing the ‘Open Air’ concept with my clients, which looks a lot like me using my hands as a painter's pallet. I use a technique called Pintura, which is a unique balayage color technique that is specifically for curly hair. Doing a full head of highlights will usually take me anywhere from an hour to two hours. 4. Then, I will use a backward cape to flip over their head to incubate the hair. I’m not using any heat on my clients because I really want to let their hair process naturally without being forced to do something it doesn’t want to do. I will usually let them process for 45 minutes to an hour.
5. After checking under the cape, I will bring my client over to the bowl, to do our first major rinse, making sure I am getting all of the bleach out. Then I’ll do a pre-tone with the Olaplex No.4P Blonde Enhancer™ Toning Shampoo, which is the blonde-enhancing toning shampoo. That’s a fire way to stop the oxidative process while toning at the same time. 6. Now it’s time to tone. I will go back to the lab and mix my toner in its entirety, and then I will go back in and add a little more No.1 to my toner. This is a big step that I think a lot of people either leave out or over-add more than the bottle recommends. I am all about following the rules so that you can break them. But, when it comes to science and formulas, I stick by the book. 7. Then I will rinse my toner out, I will put in the Olaplex No.2 Bond Perfector®, and I will leave that in for about 10 minutes. 8. If I feel like they need more toning after that, I will use the Olaplex No.4P Blonde Enhancer™ Toning Shampoo again. If I feel like the tone is perfect, then I will use the regular No.4 Bond Maintenance® Shampoo. 9. Rinse and follow up with Olaplex No. 5 Bond Maintenance® Conditioner™. If I feel like they need some extra love, that’s when I would use the Olaplex 4-In-1 Moisture Mask, to ensure the hair is properly hydrated.
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10. Then, I get to go in with my fave, No.9 Bond Protector Nourishing Hair Serum. It gives such great slip and foaming action that I am able to navigate through the curls with my hands. What I love about the No.9 Bond Protector Nourishing Hair Serum is the antioxidant properties, so I can jam as many nutrients as possible into the hair. 11. Then I will have the client flip their hair forward into the bowl. I will do a little scrunch pump side to side, then I will have them shake their curls out, and then bring their head back up. 12. Back to the station we go, and I will use one of our hooded dryers that pop down from the wall for between 10 and 20 minutes. After that, I’ll use my Dyson to diffuse the hair on low heat. Then I might use some of the Olaplex No.7 Bonding Oil™ if they want some additional shine baked into the hair. •
“WHAT I LOVE ABOUT THE NO.9 BOND PROTECTOR NOURISHING HAIR SERUM IS THE ANTIOXIDANT PROPERTIES.”
N° 7 BONDING OIL .
™
NEW! 60mL Deluxe Size
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Hair // George Alderete. Photography // John Rawson. Costume Design// Lisa Vann. MUA/ Orlando Marin. Models// Jolie Cazenave, Emily Goldby, Allie Norckauer. Products// Keune North America.
FUTURE PERFECT {BEHIND T HE SCENE S}
GLOBAL HAIRCOLOR EDUCATOR FOR KEUNE AMERICA, MASTER COLORIST, AND MULTI-AWARD WINNER, GEORGE ALDERETE IS A CONSTANT SOURCE OF INSPIRATION. HIS COLLECTIONS ARE ALWAYS EYE-CATCHING, AND INTRIGUING, AND HAVE A RICH STORY BEHIND EACH. GEORGE LET US IN BEHIND THE SCENES OF HIS RECENT SHOOT, FUTURE PERFECT. 72
“I WANTED PEOPLE TO TAKE THAT SECOND TO GO, ‘IS THIS REAL?’ THE WAY YOU DO WHEN YOU SEE ONE OF THESE AI IMAGES. I WANTED TO FLIP THE SWITCH, INSTEAD OF THINKING AI CREATIONS WERE REAL, WHAT IF REAL IMAGES LOOKED LIKE AI?” In his Future Perfect collection, George explored how AI influenced him artistically, combining futuristic looks, with classic styles. With a bold yet muted color pallet of rich maroon shades, cardinal red, and steel he created a mesmerizing marriage of luscious hair color and classic hairdressing. But before we look at the Future, let’s look at George’s past. He said: “When I entered beauty school, I had no idea where exactly I wanted to go. I remember I called it the “five-year plan” because I was nearly thrown out at least four or five times. I was always socializing, or not staying in my section, or helping other people come in late. But I always knew I just wanted to do things a little differently.” The first time George was asked to compete in a hair show, well that changed everything. He said: “My very first hair show was the Long Beach Hair Show in Southern California, and I was just enamored with everything around me. All of my senses were overjoyed and overfilled. The competition showed me this whole other world of the hairdressing industry, a world I wanted to be a part of.” That’s when it all started for George. He started doing more shoots, collaborating with the stylists in his salon, working with the owners of local clothing shops, and organically creating shoots. He said: “Curiosity slowly built and built and built as I practiced, until I started to find that winning formula, and then started to build on that. And that’s basically what I have done over the years. “Working on finding the right team is so important, so that has been a big part of my
journey. I was with Redken for nearly 20 years, and about 12 years ago I got notified by a friend at Keune and was asked to come down and check it out here in Atlanta, and I have been with them ever since. These days, I am Keune’s Color Ambassador for America, and my role is all about building inspiration, and motivation and working with others on the team to build curriculums and classes, either for the academy, online, or for in-salon training.” Despite being a brand that is over 100 years old, one of the things George loves about Keune is the brand's willingness to accept modernity. He said: “When Covid hit, Keune was one of the very first brands to adapt quickly and get all of our education up online, free of charge, within only a couple weeks of the Pandemic. That approach to accepting the digital age really inspired me, and that’s what got me thinking more about the role of AI in the hair world.” THE INSPIRATION George told us a little bit about his vision for Future Perfect, and how he brought the collection to life. George said: “I had so many images in my mind going into this. I was thinking about films like Ex Machina, and The Creator, and I noticed that all of these imaginations of AI were bald. I thought that it was so interesting and so modern. But what if we implemented classic styles alongside this hyper-modern look to create an otherworldly juxtaposition? What if we had these classic updos – but there was no ‘up,’ just the ‘do’ – if you will? I wanted people to take that second to go, ‘Is this real?’
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The way you do when you see one of these AI images. I wanted to flip the switch, instead of thinking AI creations were real, what if real images looked like AI?” Over the last few years, AI has become increasingly present in the real world and has struck controversy and debate, especially among artists. I asked George about his personal thoughts on the world of artificial intelligence in the creative industries. He said: “I think AI is such an interesting thing because it is such a massive part of the modern world today. Most of us use AI every day without even thinking about it. We use predictive text when we type on our phones, we use Grammarly when we write emails. To me, rather than see it as a threat, I see it as a tool for creatives. It is something we can use to inspire us and push ourselves further, creating things we have never had the power to create before. AI will never be able to replace a whole
team of creatives, and do what we can do, but can help us to enhance our work and process our creations that one step further.” CREATING THE LOOKS To create the modern, futuristic, yet classic hair color for the collection, George used Keune’s Color Chameleon range of intense direct dyes, which create beautiful and rich color finishes. George said: “I wanted to create a gradient in the hairpieces to echo the patterns of the feathers on the outfits. So that’s why you’ll see that the regrowth areas are deeper and darker, and then fade into red, grey, and then magenta. I had to do all the coloring keeping in mind the updos I would be creating and how the hair piece would balance and sit on the bald cap.” For this collection, George wanted to challenge himself to take the reigns on the styling, and not just the color: “I wanted to up my game and get back into styling and finishing.” For the updos, George was inspired by the styles
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“I WANTED TO CREATE A GRADIENT IN THE HAIRPIECES TO ECHO THE PATTERNS OF THE FEATHERS ON THE OUTFITS. SO THAT’S WHY YOU’LL SEE THAT THE REGROWTH AREAS ARE DEEPER AND DARKER, AND THEN FADE INTO RED, GREY, AND THEN MAGENTA.”
CREATING THE HAIRPIECES 1. Clarify and cleanse hair pieces with Kuene Clarifying Shampoo to remove any residue on the hair pieces. 2. Color the hair pieces with the Keune Color Chameleon collection 3. Prep the hair with Keune Style Soft Mousse, to give the hair a nice hold and soft shine. 4. When blow drying, we used Keune’s Instant Blowout, because it cuts the time down and helps to build the hair back up again. 5. Instead of a hairspray for finishing, I used the Keune Brilliant Gloss Spray, because it won’t give a powdery finish, and it will still allow me to move the hair and work with it after it’s been set. It gives softness and a lot of shine.
of the ’40s and ’50s. He said: “I just really loved the idea of these classic shapes, and giving it a really modern twist. I used all traditional setting methods, using hot rollers and irons. We really worked with all the foundations.” ADAPTING ON SET The behind-the-scenes of creating Future Perfect shows the importance of being able to adapt on the go and be flexible when creating collections. George explained: “I had a completely different color palette for this collection until just a week before the shoot – but then, I got ghosted by my stylist! So, I had to scramble for a new stylist. I had no wardrobe. I called my good friend Lisa Vann from Seattle, and she saved the day with these three amazing outfits, which ended up inspiring the new color palette!” Another challenge George faced on set was a model not show up day of. So, he had to act quickly on his feet. He explained: “You would never realize it, but the third model is not actually a model, she is a hairdresser and was
one of my assistants. She was such a savior, she put on the bald cap, got in makeup, and let John direct her, and did a great job.” THE TEAM As George mentioned before, his team is so important to him. Behind the lens, George had the fantastic John Rawson, who has worked with some of the best hair and beauty professionals in the industry. George said: “I just love working with this man. I love his honesty, transparency, and no-nonsense manner. As a creative, he often brings me down to earth, and he always has a plan B and a plan C. “For makeup, our go-to was my long-time friend Orlando Marin. He has done a lot of TV looks for shows like AHS, so thought he would be so perfect for this collection. We actually did two versions of the shoot, one that focused more on the makeup for Orlando. Because it’s all about collaboration and making sure the outcome works for everyone.” •
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DIARY OF A CEO HAIRDRESSER, SALON OWNER, EDUCATOR, ENTREPRENEUR, AND CREATOR OF SUNLIGHTS PRO, CANDY SHAW IS A FORCE TO BE RECKONED WITH. AS A THIRD-GENERATION HAIRDRESSER, SHE HAS MADE IT HER MISSION TO NOT ONLY EXCEL WITHIN THE INDUSTRY BUT TO CHANGE IT FOR THE BETTER.
CANDY SHAW
2024 is a big year for Candy, as she celebrates her 60th birthday and her 40th year behind the chair! We caught up with Candy from Sun Q – the headquarters of Sunlights Pro in Atlanta, Georgia, to talk about Candy’s brilliant career, and how she has built her empire. As the third hairdresser in a long lineage, following after her father’s 60-year career, Candy got her start at a young age. She said: “I traded math homework for haircuts! High school wasn’t the easiest for me because I had Dyslexia, so I really struggled to do my work. My school had a ‘hair code’ for boys, meaning their hair needed to be above the brow, ear, and off the collar. So, I figured out at about age 13 that I could start cutting my classmate's hair, and in return, they would do my math homework. So, I partially think my whole entrepreneurial spirit came from those days. “Another huge influence was my father and his long, long list of incredibly iconic people in this industry who I was introduced to at a young age. And back in those days, you didn’t just become iconic based on your follower count. You became iconic based on the work you did to change the industry. We are talking about Horst Rechelbacher, Vidal Sassoon, staying at my house while I was growing up, and it was totally normal. “My dad was also a world champion hairdresser, and he competed in competitions all over the world. He created incredible hair art collections and was the first American to ever win the World Supreme in Amsterdam for the Marcel curling iron. So, when I was a little kid, he would drive me to school, and he would practice the hand movements of the Marcel while he was driving.
“KEEPING A FOOT IN BOTH MY SALON AND AS AN EDUCATOR AND PRODUCT DEVELOPER MEANS THAT I CAN STAY RELEVANT AND IN TUNE WITH THE NEEDS AND STRUGGLES OF THE CONSUMER – THE SALON STYLIST.” 76
“My mother was also a makeup artist and was often also my dad’s model for much of his competition work. My uncle is a hairstylist, and my aunt a makeup artist. I was just surrounded by a passion for hair and beauty growing up, so it was in my blood.” Unlike most States, the State of Georgia doesn’t require hair stylists to go to cosmetology school, so you can apprentice instead. And with so many role models and talented stylists around her, that’s the route Candy chose. “I rode my bicycle to my father’s salon every day after school. It is actually, in fact, the same 50-chair salon I run today. It just celebrated its 46th year anniversary. I spent a few years folding towels, sweeping the floor, loading the Coke machines, straightening the perm rods, all those things you do when you are starting out.” After working in the salon all throughout high school, Candy was determined to travel to Europe to learn the art of French cutting and balayage. This is where she discovered her passion for these techniques and brought them back to the States to share with the world. “My father’s goal was for the salon to become the best in the area, and then for us to become a training salon. So, we started getting a lot of training through Jacques Dessange, an incredible French hairdressing outfit in Paris and in New York. But I felt that a lot of the lessons were difficult to translate for the American audience. So, that’s why I decided to immerse myself in the French way of cutting, see it all through my American eyes, and then bring the techniques back in a way that was more accessible for my peers.” For 30 years now, Candy has been teaching the art of French cutting, as well as Balayage – and this was far before ‘balayage’ was a commonly known and requested service. Candy explained that the French execution of a Balayage is quite different from how we know it now and was mostly done with a comb. “So, I first learned their way, and then I began to develop my own ways of doing it.” But for Candy’s continental inspired Balayage techniques, she relied on a lighting product that she sourced from Europe, but one
day her supply dried up, and she couldn’t get it anymore. She said: “I had to think fast on my feet. Two things were happening at that time. The first was, I was painting hair before painting hair was cool. Most people at that time were still pulling hair through a cap. But I sensed that Balayage was going to be the next big thing. The second thing that was happening was that more and more hairdressers were going into more independent booth renting situations here in America. So, we had a trend rising in color, and a trend rising in business. And we had nothing in terms of products to support it.” Being from Georgia, Candy knew that its biggest natural resource was clay, or kaolin, which was being used in cosmetics, porcelain, and printing, in fact, most magazine covers have kaolin in them, and that’s what gives them that shine. When it came to finding the right product in America for Balayage, the challenge Candy faced was that the lighteners were not designed for hair painting, they were developed for foils. Most lighteners contained high concentrations of silica, which is sand. So, when people were using these lighteners to paint hair, the little sand granulations were causing spots and dots in the hair. Giving balayage a bad rap. “So, I thought, what if you put clay in a lightener? That way, it would harden like clay does, while on the inside, it would stay moist, giving the hair an even lift. For two years I went into research and development, driving our chemists crazy, trying to get that perfect consistency that I could actually paint with.” Then comes the second prong to Candy’s plan, creating something for those independent, booth-rental hairstylists, who no longer had the support or education of a salon. “I thought, I am going to create this thing called a Balay-Box, that contained all the tools and products you needed to learn how to paint hair, including a class inside. Because I knew there were all these people wanting to open up their own studios and business, and weren’t going to be able to afford top-level education.”
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“I WAS PAINTING HAIR BEFORE PAINTING HAIR WAS COOL.”
Candy told us that her business inspiration came from – you’ll never guess, but – printer companies. She said: “When you go to Office Supply, you can buy a printer for pretty cheap. Really, they want to sell you the ink. That’s was my vision, I could give stylists all the tools and the skills, and they would come back to me for the product.” Since then, Candy has evolved Sunlights Pro, now offering various bundles and kits for salons and independent stylists alike, including not just hair painting necessities, but most salon tools and necessities. She also offers continuous education, both at SunQ and on the road, as well as at all of the major industry expos,
all while balancing running her 50-chair salon, being behind the chair, and carving out time for her children and grandchildren. I asked why keeping one foot grounded behind the salon, even as she has been growing her business and education, has been an important aspect of her success. She said: “My chair is my joy. My chair is the place where I reconnect my soul to the art of what I love. And giving that up, although those hours could be used in other ways, I would be giving up the fuel to my creativity. Keeping a foot in both my salon and as an educator and product developer means that I can stay relevant and in tune with the needs and struggles of the consumer. It also means that all the skills I learn when I am educating on the road, I can bring back to my salon and my academy. I know there will come a moment when I will need to step away, but right now, I am just having too much fun!” It hasn’t always been an easy journey for Candy, but she has always made an effort to turn challenges into opportunities. “I built my foundation on all the bricks that were thrown at me. Being a woman in this industry has not been an easy hill to climb. I am a huge advocate for getting women out of the break room and into the boardroom. But to find success, you have to have meetings with yourself, and be very honest. You have to let yourself be vulnerable and be willing to call yourself on your own mistakes. When you lose, don’t lose the lesson.” With 40 years in the industry and a salon that is even older, I asked Candy what the secret to longevity is – both in terms of a sustainable business, and career. She said: “I've always said, money makes you more of what you already are. I think the key is making your main mission to better yourself, and better your business. Don’t let money or the green-eyed monster get in your way or divert your path. I went about this to change lives and to lead this industry to a better place. And that will be my mission until the day I lay my scissors down.” •
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“MY CHAIR IS THE PLACE WHERE I RECONNECT MY SOUL TO THE ART OF WHAT I LOVE.”
“I WENT ABOUT THIS TO CHANGE LIVES AND TO LEAD THIS INDUSTRY TO A BETTER PLACE. AND THAT WILL BE MY MISSION UNTIL THE DAY I LAY MY SCISSORS DOWN.”
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By ANNA MANUKYAN, @AMANUKYAN
MAKE MONEY
MAKE CENTS!
IT’S THE MOST WONDERFUL TIME OF THE FINANCIAL YEAR. BUT HAVE NO FEAR! OUR COLUMNIST, BEAUTY FINANCE EXPERT, AND THE ULTA BEAUTY HEAD OF EDUCATION, ANNA MANUKYAN IS HERE TO HELP BREAK DOWN THE SCARY STUFF, FROM TAXES, BUDGETING AND INVESTING, TO MAKE YOUR MONEY MAKE SENSE (AND CENTS)!
Tax Facts Okay, it is February. Taxes are due in April. Get your tax returns done as soon as you can so you know what additional ride offs you may need! Here’s a fun fact most people don’t know..the last day to contribute to your IRA account for 2023 is actually April 2024. So let’s say you need to reduce your annual income to stay in a lower tax bracket, you can contribute to your IRA, since it’s
a tax deferred account that you won’t need to pay taxes on until you use that money in retirement many years later, your CPA is an excellent resource to help you understand how to pay an appropriate amount of taxes while maximizing how your money can work for you. Your CPA is always the best resource for your tax plan. Be aware – Tax brackets have changed this year, below is a breakdown of what you’ll expect to pay based on income and filing status.
Tax Rate
Single
Married filing jointly
Married filing separately
Head of household
10%
$0 to $11,600.
$0 to $23,200.
$0 to $11,600.
$0 to $16,550.
12%
$11,601 to $47,150.
$23,201 to $94,300.
$11,601 to $47,150.
$16,551 to $63,100.
22%
$47,151 to $100,525.
$94,301 to $201,050.
$47,151 to $100,525.
$63,101 to $100,500.
24%
$100,526 to $191,950.
$201,051 to $383,900.
$100,526 to $191,950.
$100,501 to $191,950.
32%
$191,951 to $243,725.
$383,901 to $487,450.
$191,951 to $243,725.
$191,951 to $243,700.
35%
$243,726 to $609,350.
$487,451 to $731,200.
$243,726 to $365,600.
$243,701 to $609,350.
37%
$609,351 or more.
$731,201 or more.
$365,601 or more.
$609,350 or more.
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“AS WE ENTER THE NEW YEAR, 2024, THERE’S NO TIME LIKE THE PRESENT THAN TO SET A REALISTIC BUDGET FOR 2024.”
How to make 2024 a better financial year 1. Work on your relationship and understanding of money. If I was to ask you? How are you with money? What is your answer? Was it “bad”? or “great”? What we don’t manage, manages us and that is so true with our relationship with our finances. I’m launching a 5-day finance challenge soon to help create better money habits, follow me on Instagram @amanukyan if you want to join the fun! 2. Track your wants and needs, we have to know where our money is going. Once you start to really pay attention, it’s shocking how much we spend on things that don’t bring us joy. 3. Automate your savings and retirement accounts, pay yourself the same way you pay your rent of mortgage. Your financial safety next is a nonnegotiable, start paying yourself first this year!
Breaking Down Budgeting As we enter the new year, 2024, there’s not time like the present than to set a realistic budget for 2024. Tracking expenses is essential! Depending on your business model, the category will slightly vary but you have to be keenly aware of what is coming in vs what is going out. Whether you are a salon owner, independent stylist, of have are a suite owner, these all apply to you. Salon Space Costs (Rent/Lease): This is often one of the largest expenses. The percentage will vary but typically ranges from 10% to 20% of your total revenue. Salon Supplies and Products: this can range from 5% to 10% of revenue. 8% tends to be a sweet spot, remember that next time you’re mixing color! For salon owner’s payroll and commissions can consume anywhere from 30% to 60% of the salon's total revenue, depending on the pay structure. Utilities and Maintenance: Utilities like water, electricity, heating, and cooling, as well as maintenance costs, typically account for around 5% to 10% of revenue. Insurance 3-5%. Continuing Education can account for 1% to 5% of revenue. Miscellaneous expenses usually account for an additional 2% to 5%.
While adding all of these up can make your head spin, it’s important to factor in the true cost of doing business so you can track what’s coming in from both retail and services and adjust your prices and budget accordingly. Fun fact, Ulta Beauty pays up to 70% commission, plus benefits and takes care of all of the costs of doing business, so you can focus on doing what you love most!
Get into Investing When your money isn’t going into the above budget, where should it be going? Well, this will vary depending on your short vs long term goals. However, the two things that everyone needs are: • A high yield savings account for your emergency funds and savings account. You can search online for the best rates and the banking institution you feel best with. Make sure that there’s not a monthly fee for the account or a minimum balance required, and that it’s FDIC insured. HYSAs are offering interest rates of over 4% and have zero risk associated with them. • Proper insurance, yes insurance is an investment. If something happens to your ability to make an income, you need to have that income supplemented. Anything that has a “cash value” to it, will be growing interest as an asset.
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THINK OUTSIDE
THE PUCK
PRESIDENT AND CO-FOUNDER AT 18.21 MAN MADE – A BRAND OF TOP-SHELF GROOMING GOODS FOR THE ASPIRING GENTLEMAN, ASTON LAFON SHARES HOW THINKING DIFFERENTLY LED HIM TO CREATING AN ICONIC BRAND.
ASTON LAFON
When Aston created 18.21 Man Made, he had a clear vision for the products, their packaging, and even the fragrances. He took a risk, creating a brand that was 100% different from all the other ‘for men’ brands at the time, and that risk paid off, making it a hugely successful brand among barbers, stylists, and their clients too. Since he was young, Aston has always been looking for problems that he could solve. After watching his hairdresser mom struggle to remove color stains, at 18 years old he went as far as to develop a unique product that could help professionals easily wipe away any misplaced color, without leaving stains. But it was many years later, when Aston was working as a salon and barber distributor under his business Credible Culture, that he noticed a problem. Barbershops and unisex salons were lacking in high quality, eye-catching, and desirable hair products for men. Aston said: “Everything for the fellas was the same. It was black and chrome, in a cheap plastic bottle or puck. The professional products looked the same as the grocery store products, and everything smelled like Tea Tree or Peppermint. Why?!” Aston thought, what if there were products that could create an experience for the client, that would really stand out on a retail shelf, and look just as at home in a high-end salon, as a traditional barbershop? Something that would make fellas go, ‘I want this’, and their partners go, ‘I want to give them this.’ Aston envisioned a product that would feel upscale, yet a little dangerous too. He said: “I got this strong feeling that men deserved
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something better. And felt that pairing uncommon grooming products with an elevated service experience could be very powerful for mens grooming service providers and the guests that they serve. I also started to think about what masculinity means, and what it means for a product to be distinctly masculine. It was around this time, brands were running ads that showed a guy spraying the product on, and instantly growing abs and thousands of women started running in their direction. But, that’s not reality. And that’s how 18.21 Man Made was born. Aston questioned: “How can we completely elevate the grooming experience with unique products and service offerings. The initial focus was on envisioning and developing the three most important and distinctive components of any product offering, namely the packaging, scent and performance. Instead of using the standard black and chrome bottle, why not a whiskey bottle? Why keep using these cheap plastic pucks for the pomades, why not a painted glass jar that feels substantial and luxurious? Why not an actual motor oil can for a beard oil? Instead of peppermint or tea tree, how about experiential scents inspired by a night out at a speakeasy sipping on cocktails or enjoying a smooth brandy by the fireplace. When he took these ideas to labs and packaging companies, he received quite a few raised eyebrows. But he carried on.”
Top shelf grooming goods for the aspiring gentleman.
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“WE REALIZED THAT OUR COMBINED EXPERIENCE IS JUST WHAT THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY NEEDS!”
BUSINESS STRONG ROYAL AND M’LISA ELLIS ARE A HUSBAND AND WIFE BUSINESS COACHING DUO BASED IN LAS VEGAS, NEVADA, WITH A BUSINESS CALLED SPA STRONG. THROUGH SPA STRONG, THE DUO HELPS SPA AND SALON OWNERS STRENGTHEN THEIR BUSINESSES, FILLING THEIR BOOKS AND BOOSTING REVENUE. THEY SHARE THEIR TIPS. M’Lisa has been in the beauty industry since 2008, starting as a professional makeup artist, eventually becoming a licensed master esthetician and certified lash artist in 2012. She went on to become a licensed esthetics instructor and studio spa owner with a location in Salt Lake City, Utah, and the beginnings of a second location just north of Los Angeles, California. However, a massive car accident in 2017 forced M’Lisa to close the doors on her spas, but every cloud has a silver lining! This accident paved the way to start Spa Strong® with Royal. Royal is a former police officer for the city of Los Angeles who medically retired after five years on the force due to an on-duty injury in 2018. M’Lisa said: “Even though being injured is NOT ideal, we had such a great time hanging out together all day every day while we were off work! We wanted to come up with a way to keep spending time together while continuing to help others, and we realized that our combined experience is just what the beauty industry needs! Royal’s experience as a police officer made him an expert in working with the public, dealing with negotiators and people who don’t respect you as an authority, and even sales!” The ACRE Method M’Lisa’s journey from homeless to successful beauty business owner was based on a four-part methodology she created called The ACRE Method™. M’Lisa explained: “Every servicebased business needs to be strong in four areas in order to be sustainable and profitable: Attraction, Conversion, Retention, and Expansion. “Attraction: This is all about identifying and attracting your 'Ideal Client' by effectively gaining their attention and positioning yourself as the perfect solution to their problems! “Conversion: This is ethical sales! So many beauty professionals are afraid of selling because they don’t want to be too pushy and offend their clients, but selling is just offering
solutions to their problems so they can see better results! “Retention: It’s not enough for your clients to come only once. Turning one-time clients into lifetime clients will get you off the hamster wheel of non-stop new client attraction and help you build a sustainable practice rooted in trust and increased results! “Expansion: It’s time to treat your spa/salon like a business, not a hobby! Whether you simply want to improve your backend practices, introduce additional services, or hire a full team, this is where you transition from treatment provider to CEO!”
SPA STRONG'S TIPS ON INCREASING PROFITS
SPA STRONG’S TIPS ON MARKETING Social Media “Social media has turned into video content being prioritized so making sure that you do reels is really important, especially for the “Like, Know & Trust” factor to gain more clients.” Website “It's super critical to make sure that your website is phone friendly and PC friendly. We have seen so many awesome websites on our phone but pulling it up on a PC it unfortunately did not look the same.”
Attracting new clients “So, many beauty businesses want new clients, but they forget about all of the clients that never came back so FIRST we would focus on reaching out to past clients because it's so much easier to get a client back that paid you before vs a new client. But use social media, join your local chamber of commerce, and collaborate.”
Booking/ marketing software “There are many booking softwares out there. We have clients that use Vagaro, Square, Mindbody, and many more. Make sure to choose a booking software that prioritizes user experience and makes booking seamless for your clients.”
Increasing average ticket price “Upselling is going to be one of the key ways to increase the average ticket price. Just because a client comes to you for a specific service does not mean they do not want or need something else as well! So do not be afraid to upsell. Also, increasing prices are huge – and not just your standard $5 or $10 each year, actually raise your prices and your quality of clients will increase and your quantity.”
Email Marketing “Email marketing is underrated. We have our clients send emails twice a week, keeping them at the top of potential clients’ minds.”
Retail sales “Retail sales should ideally be 40-50% of the income from any business if retail/ product sales is an option. If you want clients to see the results they are looking for and you have the product they need then it would be unethical if you did not sell it to them.”
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TECHNOLOGY
MARKETING YOUR BUSINESS
THERE ARE MANY TOOLS, STRATEGIES, AND TECHNOLOGIES, THAT CAN HELP YOU MARKET YOUR BUSINESS LIKE A PRO. LET’S BREAK DOWN WHAT TO LOOK FOR AND HOW TO UTILIZE THESE FEATURES.
MARKETPLACE VS BRANDED APPS When you are deciding what salon management software to use in your business, one of the first things you might want to think about is whether you want to be part of a marketplace, or whether you would like your clients to book directly from your website or social media pages. What does this mean? Well salon management software companies like Treatwell, Booksy, and Fresha offer their own independent apps and websites, where clients can go on, search for the service they want and be presented a list of salons in their area. The benefit to this is that your business will reach potential clients that might not have otherwise known of your salon. You can also often pay additional fees to optimize and boost your brand to the top of the page. Fresha, for example, has over 18 million monthly users and
20,000 appointments made each day. Their research shows that salons tend to gain 26% more clients after joining the marketplace, and four out of five clients return for a second appointment. The potential downside to being part of a marketplace is that if your business is full up on a day your client is available, your competition is only a few clicks away. Another reason why some business owners prefer not to go with a marketplace app, is that they want to keep their own business’s branding and aesthetic at the forefront throughout the client’s booking process. With some booking and management softwares, you can have a widget installed onto your website so that clients don’t even need to leave your website to book in. Some great options for this are Timely, Zenoti, Boulevard, and Mangomint.
CLIENT
COMMUNICATIONS
One of the most frustrating things in the salon world is the dreaded no-show. By picking a salon management software that offers email and text reminders for appointments, it’s like you have a automated front desk assistant, ensuring no one misses their slot. Many salon management systems offer email and text templates to help you get all of your important messages across to your clients, and to promote your specials, sales and discounts. Vagaro, for example, offers automated email marketing, which will automatically wish clients a happy birthday, invite them to connect on social media, or remind them when they are due for another visit. With Fresha, if a significant number of your clients miss an important email or text message campaign, you can use Fresha’s resend feature to automatically segment anyone who didn’t open it and send it again. This way, you can ensure your campaign reaches as many clients as possible and they’re kept up-to-date on your essential news.
“THIS WAY, YOU CAN ENSURE YOUR CAMPAIGN REACHES AS MANY CLIENTS AS POSSIBLE”
FILL THE GAPS IN YOUR BOOKS Having a full book is a measure of business success, but with last minute cancellations, new employees, or towards the end of the month (further from payday) sometimes it can be hard to control. Some salon management systems can help you fill up those lastminute empty spots. Schedulicity, for example, has a feature called “Fill My Book”, where the system will scan your business’s availability for the upcoming week, and automatically send out weekly offers to try to fill up those empty spots. With this feature, there is a small booking fee of 15% of the discounted cost, but if a spot isn't filled and you don't make additional revenue, it's no cost to you. You can control how many deals can be booked per week, what the maximum discount is, and what services should be included in the deals.”
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“RESEARCH SHOWS THAT SALONS TEND TO GAIN 26% MORE CLIENTS AFTER JOINING THE MARKETPLACE”
WHETHER YOU'RE A CELEB OR A BUSY PROFESSIONAL, THESE DAYS, NAIL ART IS FOR EVERYONE. AND AS BEAUTY PROS, IT'S YOUR JOB TO HELP YOUR CLIENTS EXPRESS THEMSELVES, WHETHER THAT'S THROUGH SIMPLE STATEMENTS, OR AVANT GARDE CREATIONS.
Nails
Nail Artist// Maria Zuluaga, Mia Secret Educator from Costa Rica
Mia Secret Global Nail Championship
+ 2024
Launches
Nail Artist// Melisa Krigeris, Mia Secret Educator from Uruguay
By STEPHANIE YAGGY LAVERY// MIA SECRET EXECUTIVE PUBLISHING ADVISOR THE MIA SECRET 4TH ANNUAL GLOBAL NAIL CHAMPIONSHIP AWARDS WERE ANNOUNCED IN OCTOBER 2023 TO MUCH EXCITEMENT AND FANFARE. THE ONLINE NAIL COMPETITION HAS BECOME A STAPLE FOR THE BRAND, WITH LICENSED PROFESSIONALS, MIA SECRET EDUCATORS AS WELL AS MIA SECRET LOVERS AND NAIL ART ENTHUSIASTS.
Nail Artist// Samanta Fuentes, Mia Secret Educator from Guatemala
Nail Artist// Monica Tamara, Mia Secret Educator from Colombia
Nail competitions, while stressful (even if participating from the comfort of your home), also provide a unique opportunity for nail artists to push their skill- and comfort-level beyond the salon environment. Each competitor must read the rules thoroughly and follow them; find a model and photographer; and, of course, produce a set of nails that showcase their skills as well as a detailed explanation of how they were created. Working under a deadline and having your nails judged is something that can be quite humbling. Of course, if you’re a winner, it also provides you with an amazing sense of accomplishment, bragging rights and a cash prize. All of these elements help make nail artists stronger in their craft, and Mia Secret strives to support and encourage its customers and educators through this competition to be the best they can be. This year, entrants were tasked with creating not only beautiful and imaginative nail art, but also pulling together the entire image as if were to be featured on a poster or the cover of a magazine. That means the theme needed to extend beyond the nails to encompass the model’s hair, makeup and wardrobe as well. At least 50% of the products used to create the nails had to be from Mia Secret, although competitors were also allowed to use crystals and other embellishments. In each of the three categories — Magazine Photo Poster, FX Xtreme Photo Poster and Calendar Photo Poster —
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entries were judged not only on the nail technique and artistry, but also on the overall production of the photograph, including composition, model and visual impact. The awards ceremony was held via live stream on the Mia Secret Facebook page on October 13, 2023. Celebrity nail artist Tom Bachik and I hosted the live stream, announcing the winners chosen by Mia Secret vice president Lynda Sanchez along with the marketing department. On the next page, you’ll find a list of winners and their prizes.
“WORKING UNDER A DEADLINE AND HAVING YOUR NAILS JUDGED IS SOMETHING THAT CAN BE QUITE HUMBLING. OF COURSE, IF YOU’RE A WINNER, IT ALSO PROVIDES YOU WITH AN AMAZING SENSE OF ACCOMPLISHMENT”
FX Xtreme Photo Poster
Magazine Photo Poster
Calendar Photo Poster
This category was a lot of fun because it not only incorporated extreme nails, but also special effects makeup, using things like prosthetics and inspiration from Cosplay. The key to taking home a prize in this category, though, was to ensure that the makeup and costume didn’t overshadow the nails.
There was no theme for this category, however contestants were encouraged to be creative by finding a theme that’s not overly done (ahem, flowers). The idea was to create extreme nails on a beautiful model for an end result similar to something you’d find on the cover of a professional beauty magazine.
This category tasked each competitor with creating a theme surrounding the seasons of the year. The nails were to be wearable and salon-friendly, and each winner took home $400. While typically there would only be one winner for each category, we received two fantastic entries in the Winter category, so we had to award them both.
1st Anielka Peralta, Costa Rica, $1,000 2nd Maria Dolores Sanchez, Ecuador, $800 3rd Rosangela Salinas, Venezuela, $600 4th Samantha Fuentes, Guatemala, $500
1st Melisa Krigeris, Uruguay, $1,000 2nd Elisa Sanchez, Guatemala, $800 3rd Dorian Roman, Costa Rica, $600 4th Renatta Morbioni, Ecuador, $500
Nail Artist// Michele Rodriguez, Mia Secret Lover from El Salvador
Nail Artist// Rosangela Salinas, Mia Secret Educator from Venezuela
Nail Artist// Elisa Sanchez, Mia Secret Educator from Guatemala
Winter: Maria Zuluaga, Costa Rica Winter: Hendrica Peters, South Africa Spring: Gabriela Torres, United States Summer: Michelle Rodriguez, El Salvador Fall: Monica Tamara, Colombia
If you’re interested in participating in the Global Nail Championship for this year, follow Mia Secret on Instagram (@miasecret), Facebook (@ miasecretnails) and miasecretstore.com/a/blog for more information about the rules, categories and entry opportunities to be held in the summer. Upcoming Trends & Product Launches One of the most exciting things about a new year and new seasons is exploring the latest nail trends. In terms of color, while bold reds and pastel hues will continue to dominate, we’ll see more bright citrus tones in the spring and summer ahead. In addition to color, different finishes will be taking center stage, for example iridescent chrome, sheer jelly polishes and muted milky tones. For nail art, we’re seeing a lot of linear looks, either portrayed as tattoo-inspired art or in the form of a skinny French, like the one Mia Secretsponsored nail artist Julie Kandalec created for the STAUD Spring 2023 fashion show at New York Fashion Week last September. It just goes to show, minimal art can make a big impact. Naturally, the most popular products from Mia Secret were also ones widely used in the Global Nail Championship, including Gelux Gel Polish and Acrylic Powders. This year, Mia Secret is extending the color options in these two lines by releasing 54 new shades of Gelux, among which you’ll find many of the year’s on-trend shades, as well as two new frosted acrylic powders, leaning into the stillpopular glazed nail look. Again, Mia Secret’s goal is to support nail artists in all of their needs, whether it’s through high-quality product, on-trend colors and finishes or nail competitions. •
“MIA SECRET’S GOAL IS TO SUPPORT NAIL ARTISTS IN ALL OF THEIR NEEDS, WHETHER IT’S THROUGH HIGH-QUALITY PRODUCT, ON-TREND COLORS AND FINISHES OR NAIL COMPETITIONS.”
54 NEW SHADES
MIASECRETSTORE.COM
LA-BASED NAIL ARTIST, BRITTNEY BOYCE FOUND HER PLACE IN THE INDUSTRY BY OFFERING STUNNING NAIL ART TO HER CELEBRITY CLIENTS. BUT WHEN THE PANDEMIC HIT, SHE FOUND A WAY TO SHARE HER NAIL ART WITH THE WORLD.
LA NAILS OF
From Megan Fox to Kim K, Brittney’s nail art has been worn and adorned by some of the hottest celebrities, on red carpets, photoshoots, award ceremonies and beyond, making her one of THE nail artists of LA. But how did she get there? “I actually went to cosmetology school because I wanted to be a hairstylist,” Brittney told us. But the hair salon just never felt like the right fit. “I remember loving playing with nails when I was in cosmetology school, and thought, why don’t I pursue this?” Brittney quickly got the opportunity to help the nail polish brand Orly with product testing and development, while working in two of LA’s most popular nail salons. “From that point on, I never looked back at hair, and I continued to focus on and grow my nail business.” While working with Orly, Brittney got to see what it was like behind the scenes as a nail artist in the editorial world. “I realised I really liked working on set and getting to be creative in that environment.” Brittney then found herself with the opportunity to assist editorial and celebrity nail artist royalty Betina Goldstein – the go-to manicurist for the likes of Zoe Kravitz and Margot Robbie. “I felt like I was at the point in my career where I was slightly beyond assisting, but I could not say no to this opportunity to learn from the best.” Through this position, Brittney was able to make even more of a name for herself, filling up her contacts with celebrities and editors, and making herself a goto for any job that Betina wasn’t available for. Brittney found herself working more and more photoshoots,
working with different nail brands, and landed herself her first big celebrity client: Megan Fox. When the pandemic hit, Brittney went from working 15-18 hour days, to a full stop. She said: “I thought, well if there was ever a time to pursue a new business idea, now is the time. I thought, because of the pandemic, no one is able to get their nails done. So, why not create press-on nails that have designs just as cool as what you can get in the nail salon. I also know that going to a high-end nail salon isn’t within everyone’s means, so I wanted to create something that gives everyone access to nice nails. So, I took every single penny out of my bank account and launched Nails of LA.” But the entrepreneurial journey isn’t over for Brittney. Nope. She has something quite exciting up her sleeve that she will be launching early this year, so watch this space!
Brittney shared some of her favorite nail art trends: The Aura Nail: I love this trend because it is so adaptable and customizable to whoever is wearing it. You can do a blush nail that is very neutral and simple, to neons or dark colors. It’s a way your client can show off who they are on the inside through their nails in a fun and playful way. Chromes: Chromes are fun to play with because they are like a neutral; they go with every outfit and every look, anyone can rock a chrome gel manicure, no matter who you are. And if you want to go even less flashy, a chrome French tip is so chic and cool. 3D Nails: Now, I know this isn’t the most practical look, but it is definitely a look that will grab attention. I wouldn’t say 3D nails are a timeless look, but I definitely think it will be fun to see how people play with this trend in the year to come.
“WHY NOT CREATE PRESS-ON NAILS THAT HAVE DESIGNS JUST AS COOL AS WHAT YOU CAN GET IN THE NAIL SALON?” 90
STEPBYSTEP LOVE IS IN THE AIR! UK NAIL EXPERT JAZ MOGER HAS CREATED THESE BEAUTIFUL VALENTINE’S DAY INSPIRED NEGATIVE SPACE HEART NAIL ART FOR YOU TO FALL IN LOVE WITH.
File to a soft square shape, push back the cuticle and buff the nail plate. Cleanse nails, apply a Warm Pink Builder Gel and cure for 60 seconds.
Using GELLUX Mini Black Cherry and a fine liner nail art brush, paint a line vertically down the middle of the little nail, then two lines across to start creating the checkerboard.
Paint another coat around the outside of the heart using Mini Black Cherry and cure.
STEP 1
Apply two to three coats of
Using a fine liner nail art brush,
the GELLUX Mini Black Cherry
paint a French tip with GELLUX
on to the thumb and ring
Mini Black Cherry on the index
finger. Curing for 60 seconds
finger. This may need two to
between each layer.
three coats. Cure for 60 seconds.
Then, fill in the checkerboard with the same cherry shade and cure between each layer. This may take two or three coats.
Begin to paint the negative space heart on the middle finger. Start with two lines in the middle of the nail and then draw each side of the heart and cure.
Next, start to fill in the outside of the heart with the Black Cherry and cure.
Using Mini Really Red, paint an outline around the negative space heart. Using a dotting tool and fine liner, create the small heart at the cuticle on the index.
Finally, finish with a coat of a Clear Base/Top Coat, cure and then wipe over the nails with Prep + Wipe followed by a nourishing cuticle oil.
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THE R E S U LT
Nails of
2024 Minimalist. Clean. Classic.
OPI NAIL ARTIST SAMANTHA SILVIUS SHARES HER VISIONS FOR NAIL ART IN THE YEAR AHEAD. WHAT WE WILL BE SEEING, LOVING, AND WHAT YOUR CLIENTS WILL BE ASKING FOR. Top Design Trend “I love to play with different types of French Manicures; changing the colour, texture, and shape of the tip creates a fun twist on a classic look.”
Hello Squoval “I think we will see some changes in shape and length; almond will always be flattering but I see us moving toward a softer and shorter squoval.”
Take on Texture “I’m also excited to see a minimalist twist on texture; using reflective foil, magnetic polish, chrome powders, and glitter in a clean, understated way!”
What to recommend for… The Simple Client: “You can never go wrong with an additive like glitter, chrome, or rhinestones. All are super simple and add a pop to an otherwise plain manicure.” The Client Who Likes Understated, With a Little Splash or Flash: “I’m still in love with the abstract waves and animal print. It doesn’t take a lot of time to design and can be quite understated.” The ‘Extra’ Client: “3D nail art or embellishments are the way to go. Adding charms, rhinestones, and more is the epitome of extra.”
Nail Desk Must-Haves “If you haven’t already gotten on the chrome train, I think now is the time! Chrome powders come in so many shades and effects; it’s a must-have at the table.” “As a nail professional, the only way I can achieve most of the trending looks – or anything else a client brings to the table – is to have a triedand-true nail art brush. Nail art brushes don’t have to be anything fancy or expensive but the thinness and length of the bristles or the weight of the brush are specific to each artist. Finding a detail brush that works for almost all nail art you do can be life changing.”
“IF YOU HAVEN’T ALREADY GOTTEN ON THE CHROME TRAIN, I THINK NOW IS THE TIME! CHROME POWDERS COME IN SO MANY SHADES AND EFFECTS; IT’S A MUSTHAVE AT THE TABLE.” 92
MIA SECRET FROSTED ACRYLIC POWDER This frosted Nude Acrylic Powder lasts up to three times longer than standard acrylic powder. Enjoy the same look and performance of your favorite powder in a convenient one or two ounce size. Get professional results with our long lasting, easy to use powder.
$8.99 // miasecretstore.com
FROM THE RED CARPET TO THE NAIL SALON
MIA SECRET NEW GELUX GEL POLISH 54 new shades have been added to Mia Secret’s Gelux™ gel polish range. It is a super long lasting semi-permanent Gel Polish for nails developed and produced in the United States. Gelux™ is the perfect choice for beginners and gel polish lovers. Perfect for the nail salon, Gelux offers client a high-quality, super shiny result that will last for more that 21 days with only two coats.
HERE ARE SOME OF OUR FAVORITE NAIL ART TRENDS FROM THE 2024 GOLDEN GLOBES.
$10.99 // miasecretstore.com
Titanium gold cuticle nipper is durable and precise for removing excess cuticles. The sharp blades are handfiled & ultra-thin to perform with advanced accuracy. Part of the Ultra Precision Series, this stainless steel tool is coated in a Titanium finish - advanced technology that improves performance and rust resistance.
tweezerman.com
1. The ‘Old Money’ Manicure This year on the red carpet, we were seeing that less is more. Instead of going for more avant-garde or attention-grabbing nail art, this year we saw celebs sporting nails that stood back from the spotlight, and let the actor and the outfit shine. America Ferrera, Margot Robbie, and Elle Fanning are all examples of stars that opted for a neutral or clear manicure – a look many are categorizing as part of the ‘Old Money Aesthetic’ – meaning timeless, elegant, and understated.
CND ODORLESS SCULPTING LIQUID
2. Glitter and Chromes
Odorless Sculpting Liquid minimizes the odors associated with traditional sculpting liquids for a more pleasant salon experience. A highly adaptable sculpting liquid that is suitable for Nail Professionals of all skill levels.
Not all that glitters is gold… sometimes its silver! This year’s red carpet proved that the glitz and glam of glitter and chromes is not yet behind us. Emily Blunt, Quinta Brunson, and Taylor Swift each integrated a little sparkle into their nails for the Golden Globe night. While Quinta wore her nails in a long stiletto shape with glimmering French tips, Emily opted for a short, metallic silver set, that is reminiscent of the 90’s. On the other hand, Taylor paired her sequin green gown with a sheer polish with silver glitter flecks, on long rounded tips.
3. ‘90s Reds Many predicted red would make a comeback in the last year, and we were not disappointed. Red nails especially are seen as both timeless and nostalgic, as we think back to the chokehold deep reds had us all in the 90s. Dua Lipa sported a classic red to match her dark cherry hair color, whereas Jennifer Anniston and Emma Stone opted for darker, burgundy tones, making you feel like you’re sitting in Central Perk having enjoying a latte.
TWEEZERMAN ULTRA PRECISION NIPPER
cnd.com
OPI - DIPPING POWDER KISS MY ARIES Kiss My Aries is a fiery red dipping powder full of shimmer. Paint your full chart (sun + moon + rising signs) with more shades from OPI’s Big Zodiac Energy collection.
opi.com
ORLY GELFX BUILDER TIPS It all started with innovation. First, there was ORLY Builder in a Bottle® – a game-changer for the industry. Then came Builder in a Bottle Fast Forms, simplifying the creation of flawless nail extensions. Now, GELFX Builder Tips raise the bar even higher.
Shop.orly.plus
Nail Art: Tom Bachik
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OLO
WHERE WOULD YOU BE WITHOUT THE RIGHT PRODUCTS AT YOUR SIDE? THIS FEATURE WE DIVE INTO A WORLD OF COLOR, FROM VIVIDS TO NEUTRALS, THERE’S A COLOR LINE RIGHT FOR YOU.
GOLDWELL'S TOPCHIC CELEBRATES 50 YEARS OF TRUE COLOR EXCELLENCE This milestone celebration marks half a century of delivering an easy-to-use, reliable and highperformance color assortment to professionals and their clients around the world. Since its inception, Topchic has been synonymous with performance, delivering vibrant, long-lasting hair color. With its innovative and user-friendly formulas, Topchic has become the go-to choice for stylists seeking intense color, excellent evenness, ultimate durability and superior coverage with every application. Throughout its remarkable journey, Topchic has established a legacy based on excellence and performance. As a trusted essential for professionals, Topchic enables stylists to unleash their creativity and achieve stunning color transformations unique to each clients' needs. The brand’s 50th anniversary celebration is an opportunity to pay a tribute to the countless passionate stylists who have embraced Topchic over the years, making it an integral part of their professional toolkit. The success of Topchic can be attributed to its unwavering commitment to performance and continuous improvement that brought Goldwell’s color offerings to unmatched levels. Over the years, Goldwell has consistently refined and expanded the Topchic range, introducing new shades, formulations and technologies to
ensure that stylists have access to some of the most advanced tools for creating stunning hair color transformations. Goldwell continues to be inspired by each professional’s passion and strives to continue to deliver best-in-class color they can trust. About Goldwell Goldwell is a salon-professional brand of Kao Salon Division. Its professional hair products are dedicated to bringing stylists’ and their clients’ aspirations to life. Since 1948, Goldwell has been known for breakthrough innovations in the salon industry with well-known sub-brands such as: leading professional color products Topchic, Colorance, and Elumen; high-performing care and styling products Kerasilk, Dualsenses, and StyleSign; and technology-based perm and texture products. Goldwell’s complete portfolio, advanced hairdresser training program and deep expertise together create a full-service brand, meeting all salon stylists and client desires. With the annual Color Zoom Collection launched at the impressive Global Zoom Event each year, Goldwell translates the latest trends in hair and fashion to inspire stylists around the world. We asked a handful of Goldwell artists to tell us their thoughts on this timeless and iconic hair system. Please visit the Goldwell website for information: www.goldwell.com
GOLDWELL, ONE OF THE LEADERS IN BREAKTHROUGH HAIR COLOR INNOVATION, IS THRILLED TO ANNOUNCE THE UPCOMING 50TH ANNIVERSARY OF ITS ICONIC, IN-SALON COLOR SYSTEM, TOPCHIC.
“WITH TOPCHIC, IT’S ALL ABOUT THE THE QUALITY OF THE COLOR: THE DURABILITY, THE FEELING THAT THE HAIR HAS AFTER THE COLOR IS PROCESSED, AND THE INCREDIBLE, VERSATILE SHADES THAT TOPCHIC OFFERS.” JACOB HABIB KHAN
“AS A TRUSTED ESSENTIAL FOR PROFESSIONALS, TOPCHIC ENABLES STYLISTS TO UNLEASH THEIR CREATIVITY” 95
COLOR IS ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR AND PROFITABLE AREAS OF THE SALON INDUSTRY, NOT TO MENTION IT IS THE ULTIMATE COMBINATION OF CREATIVITY AND SCIENCE. ULTA BEAUTY KNOWS THIS AND ENSURES ALL ITS SALON PROFESSIONALS ARE GIVEN ALL OF THE OPPORTUNITIES AND EDUCATION TO THRIVE AND BECOME COLOR CONFIDENT. Collection// ABS 2024, Hair// Ulta Beauty Pro Team,
Makeup Assistants// Dmitry Potapov, Gabe Almodovar, Photographer// Richard Monsieurs,
Makeup// Ulta Beauty Pro Team,
Wardrobe// Altorrin McIntyre,
Hair Assistants// Ulta Beauty Design Team, Vicky Yeremchuk,
Nails// Sarah Nguyen, Production// ISP Creative.
CONFIDENCE IN ALL
COLORS “We love all things hair color at Ulta Beauty,” said Anna Manukyan, Senior Director, Education and Creative. “Fueled by our industry leading education, our salon professionals are passionate, knowledgeable artists committed to taking care of any guest’s hair color needs. We take pride in helping each guest look and feel their best, and hair color is a bit part of that, throughout our industry and throughout our nearly 1,400 Ulta Beauty salons. Whether a guest wants a quick color refresh, a root touch-up, a balyage lift, a serious color correction or to try on a vibrant color, it’s all on the services menu at Ulta Beauty.” Ulta Beauty is known for giving its salon professionals the best chance at success, in terms of achieving their creative goals, as well as career goals too. Sarah Dahl, Director of Field Services
Education at Ulta Beauty said: “Ulta Beauty hair color expertise means our stylists can grow their business and be their best. Our team is superprepared in all aspects of delivering hair color services, including consultation and scheduling, alongside trend and technique. “Ulta Beauty educators in the field work hands-on and in-person with every stylist so they are prepped and comfortable having meaningful conversations with all guests about their hair color possibilities. We offer 360-degree support for stylists, helping them bring hair color creativity and artistry to life and set up a plan for success—both for their guests and themselves. We are constantly sharing tips and tools to help stylists enhance the overall hair color experience, save our guests time, and maintain their
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color services at home. We give them all the tools they need to ‘wow’ with hair color.” Dani Darmanin, Director of Education Development added: “Ulta Beauty education is based on our ‘Hair for All’ philosophy. We are growing and diversifying our services and skills to take care of all guests, and hair color remains rooted at the core of our curriculum. It is the number one service in terms of revenue throughout the industry, and hair color is a huge part of our education program. No matter the guest’s hair type or hair condition or lifestyle, our Ulta Beauty curriculum and hair color education is engaging, relevant, creative and on-trend. By design, it fuels our stylist’s creativity and success.” When it comes to mastering color, it’s a continuous process as trends, techniques, and technology changes.
I asked the Ulta Beauty Team how Ulta Beauty ensures salon professionals are supported with throughout their color journeys. Sarah said: “Our exclusive, customized Ulta Academy education allows stylists to see the possibilities are beautiful wherever they are – whether at the Stylist, Master or Elite level. The education scales with you, so hair color expertise is constantly refreshed, enhanced, and grown. In 2023 we offered more than 4,000 in-person Ulta Academy classes covering a full range of services, with one in three of those classes being focused on haircolor. We cover advanced techniques, blonding services, coloring curl and all textures of hair, and so much more.” Rather than having to pay for their own training or worry about missing appointments in order to attend training, Ulta Beauty stylists are actually paid to attend education. Leonardo Valencia, Design Team and Ulta Beauty Diamond Stylist said: “The best part is that these classes are paid, so our stylists are always taken care of by Ulta Beauty! These classes will keep stylists up to date, as well as helping them grow financially.” How can color change the life of a hairstylist? Anna said: “Hair color is a proven driver of both creative and financial success throughout the salon industry, and there is no better place to accelerate both sides of your hair color business than at Ulta Beauty. We offer unparalleled resources, education, leadership, and artistry. The formula is simple: Use the tools Ulta Beauty offers to grow your business in the areas and ways which matter to you.” Sarah added: “We had more than 600 Ulta Beauty stylists exceed $100,000 in services revenue in 2023 and expect to grow that number significantly in 2024. Talk to those stylists who reach and go beyond that pinnacle and you will find most have embraced all the hair color education, resources and access to innovation that Ulta Beauty offers, and find joy in the freedom growth hair color at Ulta Beauty offers, both financially and creatively.”
“HAIR COLOR IS A PROVEN DRIVER OF BOTH CREATIVE AND FINANCIAL SUCCESS THROUGHOUT THE SALON INDUSTRY, AND THERE IS NO BETTER PLACE TO ACCELERATE BOTH.” Another thing that makes Ulta Beauty unique is that all clients have access to a huge selection of retail products, ensuring their hair regimen between appointments can be a perfect fit. Sarah said: “Ulta Beauty gives stylists and their guests access to the largest beauty playground imaginable. With so many options at their fingertips, salon professionals truly have the freedom to customize their recommendations to their guest’s specific needs and preferences.” Senior Manager of the Design Team, Haley Valdez said: “Advising on post-service treatments and proper home care are the truest final touch of excellence from a professional expert. A service with the final recommendations for at-home care is truly the sign of a seasoned expert, as this sets the guest up for a great experience even after they leave your chair. Our stylists receive regular, consistent, and hands-on education with a broad range of products. This ensures they are fully prepared to engage and educate the Ulta Beauty guests on the right products for them.”
Photography// ISP Creative
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THE COLORS OF ULTA BEAUTY 2024 We asked the Ulta Beauty team what their favorite trends and vision for color are for 2024. “On a personal level, reds are always trending, especially rich, shining shades with a healthy inner glow. On the industry level, while cowboy coppers peaked in the second half of 2023, our Ulta Beauty stylists and educators report guests are going a bit deeper into cherry cola reds for 2024, with plenty of coffee talk in shades of latte and espresso. Blonding services stays indemand year-round, with a tilt toward sheer platinum.” - Anna Manukyan “In 2024, there will be an increased focus on color and trend techniques that make sense for the guest. Expect techniques that produce maximum impact while being time conscious. The best part of education this year is that Ulta Beauty stylist will be learning smart ways to achieve trending looks that serve our guests and allow them to get the most out of their investment of time and money at the salon.” - Haley Valadez “Educators at Ulta Beauty are constantly looking at how to stay in-the-know for new trends, collaborating and sharing tips, and inspiring each other. In 2024, I believe we are all aiming for gorgeous dimensional color that will enhance our guests overall look instead of focusing on just one thing.” - Leonardo Valencia
COL COLOR IS WITHOUT A DOUBT ONE OF THE MOST FUN AREAS IN THE WORLD OF HAIR. FROM PLAYING WITH VIVIDS AND PASTELS, TO BUTTERY BLONDES AND EXPENSIVE BRUNETTES. LET’S HEAR FROM A HANDFUL OF COLORISTS WITH A VARIETY OF SPECIALTIES TO TALK ABOUT THE PRODUCTS AND TOOLS THEY USE TO BRING THEIR VISIONS TO LIFE.
PLAYING WITH PASTELS & NEONS
HANNA MENOR, CO-OWNER OF MIX COMPANY SALON, SAN DIEGO, CA. Why Color? “My favorite thing about working with and experimenting with hair color, is just that, working and experimenting with it. Its so fun to have a client bring you inspiration or an idea and my brain just takes off with so many ideas. As soon as I start formulating and mixing, I become a mad scientist. I get lost in the process in a good way. Pushing my creativity with each client keeps me on my toes. It’s extremely easy as an artist to get burnt out and I try my best to listen to myself and know when it’s time to chill or hit the paint full throttle.” Hanna’s niche? Pastels and neons! “Pastels are so dreamy and magical looking. Then there’s neons, that are just like a bomb to your brain. Mixing the two together is even better! I love a good pinwheel placement. It can be so versatile, and you can really customize it to be something simple to something insane looking!”
SO, WHAT’S IN HANNA’S COLOR TOOLKIT? For Color: “Danger Jones is my go-to brand for all my creative color! It’s easy to apply, it smells DELICIOUS, and it LASTS!” For Haircare: “Brazilian Bond Builder Color Care Shampoo and Conditioner is a MUST! I also try to gift all my clients a B3 Color Lock spray to help their color last as long as possible! K18 is super huge for me right now and I recommend it to anyone and everyone! Leaf and Flower Phyto Molecular Oil is also a GAME CHANGER!”
For Tools: “As far as tools go, anything I can paint with! Sometimes I’ll incorporate sponge sticks, or one time I even used a cup to make a perfect circle on a shaved head for designs. If it’s possible, I’ll most likely be the one to try it. I love using Colortrak Control Film when painting rainbow panels or rainbow prisms. I can see through them and make sure I’m not missing spots and it honestly just also like really cool to look at while processing.”
BRING ON BLENDING! LISA MAYO (@LISA_CREATEDTOCREATE), OWNER/ STYLIST AT CREATE STUDIO HAIR, LONG ISLAND NY.
Having worked behind the chair for 16 years, and owned her own studio, Create Studio for four years, Lisa has become known for her incredibly creative color looks and industry collaborations. She’s made the Behind the Chair Top 5 list this year for her Face Frame submission, made the Top 25 list for three categories, and the Top 100 list for five categories! If you’re looking for color inspo, be sure
to check out Lisa’s Instagram. Lisa’s Color Vision for 2024? “I think in 2024 we will see more blended looks and warmer colors. The best part with creative color is anything always goes because it’s already out of the box! So this is the year to really have fun and get creative! SO, WHAT’S IN LISA’S COLOR TOOLKIT? For Color: “Some of my favorite products to have when
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creating vivids are Pravana, Pulpriot and Danger Jones colors. The holy trinity of creative colors!” For Tools: “My top tools I always turn to when creating is FRAMAR, for foils, mesh sheets, and especially the claw proof gloves!” For Haircare: “Lately I’ve been really enjoying everything k18 to keep the integrity of the hair during services and also to continue using at home.”
LOR TURN UP THE HEAT BRENDNETTA ASHLEY, SCHWARZKOPF ARTISTIC TEAM MEMBER AND A SUITE OWNER, SAN FRANCISCO, CA. In the very beginning of Brendnetta’s career she had a fear of color. She explained it was because she didn’t understand the chemistry of it. But by taking serval classes and really understanding how color works, she fell in love with it. “I mostly fell in love with how curly hair could have any color and maintain their curls. The beauty of color today is how technology has improved so much that we now get to have the healthiest blonde hair without compromising hair integrity.” Brendnetta’s top tone for 2024? “A lived-in Copper/ ginger is my absolute favorite. By adjusting the depth this tone looks great on anyone. Lived-in placements are so perfect and unique for clients. It truly is their own signature look! “2024 is going to be all about warm tones. So, blondes and brunettes will have some warmth to them. They will also look very natural, so they’ll be very blended with subtle dimension.”
SO, WHAT’S IN BRENDNETTA’S COLOR TOOLKIT? For Color: “Schwarzkopf BLONDME Lighter is my favorite. There are three variations (precision, clay, 9+) so we have something for every situation in the salon. Plus, Schwarzkopf Igora Vibrance is what I love to tone with. The tones and shine always deliveries great results!” For Tools: “I like using a firm bristle brush when applying color, so I use the Fromm Firm Color brush. I also like to use clear film when processing. It allows me to see how the hair is lifting without opening the film.” For Haircare: “Schwarzkopf BLONDME Wonder Glaze Mist is a great leave-in spray that’s also a heat protectant. It leaves the hair soft and shiny. I also like to use K18 Molecular Repair Hair Mask. It’s a leave-in conditioner that repairs damage and restores the strength of the hair.”
“2024 IS GOING TO BE ALL ABOUT WARM TONES. SO, BLONDES AND BRUNETTES WILL HAVE SOME WARMTH TO THEM.”
EXPRESS YOURSELF
CHI LAUNCHES COLOR EXPRESS 10 MINUTE PERMANENT HAIR COLOR In a groundbreaking move for time-conscious professional stylists, CHI introduces Color Express, a game-changing range of ammoniafree permanent hair dyes designed for colorists seeking 100% gray coverage and vibrant results in just 10 minutes Delivering efficient coloring services, this innovative line guarantees both swift application and comprehensive gray coverage, ensuring outstanding outcomes that rival those achieved with traditional permanent colors. It is perfect for express services like root touch-ups, effective gray coverage, and men’s gray blending. CHI Color Express offers a
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collection of 20 ammonia-free permanent hair colors, empowering stylists to provide swift and seamless coloring services The easy-application coloring range is perfect for obtaining quick, full-coverage results in a fast-paced environment, ultimately saving both time and cost. CHI Color Express is formulated with concentrated permanent hair dyes that possess exceptional penetrability, resulting in a faster and gentler coloring process. The range is not only ideal for professional stylists with busy schedules, but also for clients seeking fast and convenient hair coloring solutions.
C R E ATI N G
By J LADNER, @ITSMRJLADNER
GIVE A WARM WELCOME TO ONE OF OUR NEWEST COLUMNISTS, J LADNER! THIS MULTITALENTED INDIVIDUAL IS JUST AS FULL AS ENTHUSIASM AS HE IS WITH KNOWLEDGE AND WISDOM. IN THIS ISSUE, HE SHARES HIS ADVICE ON CHOOSING THE RIGHT COLOR TOOLS AND PRODUCTS TO TAKE YOU TO THE NEXT LEVEL. Hey SLAY hey beauty enthusiasts, it's your hair bestie, Mr J Ladner! Let's embark on a journey through my 14year career, where efficiency reigns supreme. Being licensed behind the chair is my steadfast commitment, and it's the cornerstone that has brought me to where I am today. I've shaped a brand around authenticity, basking in our truest selves. With an exceptional career nurtured by mentors and a robust support system, I wear many hats – from a seasoned hair and makeup artist in film, TV, theater, print, and digital media to a thriving entrepreneur, educator, digital author, Chief Brand Ambassador of Oligo Professionnel, and Director of Education at FAST FOILS. Oh, and not to forget, I co-host the No Stylist Left Behind podcast with the remarkable Nina Tulio. Living in the realm of efficiency, I've learned that time is the currency of hairstylists. It's not just about making more money; it's about providing the best
service to clients. Time is the most valuable resource, and efficiency translates to seeing more clients, enhancing productivity, and, consequently, elevating your career. As we step into 2024, innovation takes center stage. Efficiency becomes the superhero, and when choosing a color brand, innovation should lead the way. A stylist's tool belt must be equipped to handle all services, urging you to remain a curious stylist. Break free from the safety of routine, explore new avenues, and let innovation be your guiding light. TIP: Identify and adopt practices that maximize productivity without sacrificing service quality. This might include refining your techniques, incorporating efficient tools and products, and organizing your workspace for seamless transitions between clients. Embrace innovations in the industry that can expedite processes without compromising results.
“LOYALTY IS POTENT, BUT CURIOSITY IS EQUALLY VITAL. STAY LOCKED INTO EDUCATION CLASSES TO SPARK NEW IDEAS AND INSPIRATION, PREVENTING STAGNATION AND PRESERVING YOUR MOMENTUM.” 100
“AS WE STEP INTO 2024, INNOVATION TAKES CENTER STAGE. EFFICIENCY BECOMES THE SUPERHERO, AND WHEN CHOOSING A COLOR BRAND, INNOVATION SHOULD LEAD THE WAY.” By consistently seeking ways to work smarter, you'll increase productivity, elevate the client experience, and advance your career. For me, Oligo Professionnel aligns perfectly with innovation, impacting hair health and longevity. Scalp care is paramount, and Oligo's products like Calura Gloss allow me to tone efficiently in three to 10 minutes, lasting up to 24 shampoos. Now, with CALURA TEN, it's about protecting the scalp and empowering your color in ten minutes. Tools behind the chair demand high awareness and confidence to try new things. FAST FOILS are my newfound obsession, a foil innovation after 30 years. These high-performance endothermic foils boost ultra-black coating and special thermal properties for superior lift and color deposit. With a minimum of 25% faster processing time, they eliminate the need for potentially damaging higher levels of developer.
Choosing the right brand requires alignment with your values and mission. Loyalty is potent, but curiosity is equally vital. Stay locked into education classes to spark new ideas and inspiration, preventing stagnation and preserving your momentum. TIP: When choosing a brand to align with, carefully assess whether its values and mission resonate with your own professional ethos. Look for a brand that shares your commitment to quality, innovation, and client satisfaction. A brand that aligns with your values enhances your authenticity and strengthens your connection with clients. Attend regular education classes to remain at the forefront of industry developments. Curiosity fuels innovation, helping you evolve as a stylist and providing fresh, exciting experiences for your clients. Here's to a year of unlocking potential, embracing efficiency, and crafting your exceptional business!
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P RO DUCT P I CK O F TH E E D ITI O N : CaluraTEN Unlock a new era of efficiency with Oligo Professionnel’s 10-minute hair colouring service, CaluraTEN. Revolutionize your salon game, ensuring impeccable results that save you time and help you make more money behind the chair. Experience 100% white hair coverage, nourishment for both hair and scalp, and a wide colour range (level 3 to 9), your guests will love the quick and vibrant transformation. CaluraTEN seamlessly works with SMART bond-building system and ensures precise colour matching with Calura Permanent Shine Hair Colour. Protect the scalp and empower your colour with CaluraTEN.
OLAPLEX.NO.5P BLONDE ENHANCER™ TONING CONDITIONER A nourishing, root-to-tip formula that locks in high-def brightness and neutralizes yellow, brassy tones in blonde, lightened, highlighted, and grey hair without weighing hair down. OLAPLEX Bond Building Technology TM strengthens fragile blondes and greys
LIMITED-EDITION J LADNER BRUSH SET
TRUSS NET MASK Provides a nano-replacement of the proteins and nano-regenerates damaged hair strands, restoring the elasticity, strength and bringing back a natural hair look. It seals the hair cuticles, prolonging hydration with intensive shine.
The limited-edition color brush set designed in collaboration with J Ladner, industry leading blond expert and Director of Education at FASTFOILS, includes the only three brushes hairstylists need in their tool kit: a Detailing Brush, Extra Wide Color Brush, Balayage Paint Brush
storetruss.com
justbprofessional.com
Olaplex.com
COLOR ESSENTIALS DANGER JONES SIMPATICO LIGHT PEACH SEMI-PERMANENT HAIR COLOR Danger Jones is known for its vibrant shades, beautiful fades, and easy application. The Simpatico Semi-Permanent Color is perfect for creating the Pantone of the Year: Peach Fuzz!
dangerjonescreative.com
PRAVANA CHROMASILK VIVIDS RED HOT PALATTE PRAVANA is adding dimension to its bestselling VIVIDS red lineup, Red and Garnet, by introducing 2 new shades: a deep red and a fiery orange-red, Sangria and Flame. The new Red Hot shades are created to work on levels 8+ and contain curated underlying pigments that complement a variety of complexions. As with all VIVIDS, these formulas provide maximum vibrancy and last for up to 30 washes
pravana.com
OLIGO PRO GLOSS DEVELOPER - 7 VOLUME Calura Lotion Developer 7 volume (2%) offers a lotionlike consistency ideal for bottle application. Calura Cream Developer 7 volume (2%) offers a cream-like consistency for more control when applying with a bowl and brush.
oligoprofessionnel.com
CHI COLOR EXPRESS A game-changing range of ammonia-free permanent hair dyes designed for colorists seeking 100% gray coverage and vibrant results in just 10 minutes. This innovative line guarantees both swift application and comprehensive gray coverage, ensuring outstanding outcomes that rival those achieved with traditional permanent colors.
pro.chi.com
KEUNE ULTIMATE BLONDE With Keune’s professional Ultimate Blonde range, there is a way to achieve every blonde ambition. From classic highlight, face-framing balayage to full platinum blonde. Keune’s got you covered. The benefits: significantly reduces hair damage, long-lasting conditioning, stunning shine and softness.
keune.com
GOLDWELL TOPCHIC Celebrating it’s 50th anniversary in 2024, TOPCHIC is your tried and tested color for creating distinctive beauty. An iconic and truly intelligent color system, TOPCHIC guarantees intense colors full of brilliance in all dimentions. It offers 100% grey coverage, ultimate durability, excellent evenness, and optimum gentleness. Plus, TOPCHIC uses Goldwell’s favorite color system, the Depot Can System, founded in 1978, offering easy handling, precision, and a more economical system
goldwell.com
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SUNLIGHTS THE CLAY KIT™ The Clay Kit ft. the Industry’s FIRST and BEST Lifting Clay Lighteners, plus all the tools you need to slay the clay! Candy Shaw, the artist who started the Balayage Revolution, has created the full arsenal you need to highlight.
sunlightspro.com
CELEBRATING COLOR EXCELLENCE Innovating for salon professionals with true color excellence since 1974. Experience the best-in-class performance of Topchic permanent hair color, with natural to intense color results, superior grey coverage and ultimate durability trusted by stylists worldwide.
ON-DEMAND BARBER EDUCATION Advance your barbering techniques with Wahl Professional’s on-demand learning platform featuring premium education from around the globe.
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education.wahlglobal.com