FARID THE ZINE | THE STYLE ISSUE | Pre-Spring 2023

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FARID. THE STYLE ISSUE

Editor’s Letter Editor’s Letter

Welcome to the Style issue!

Self expression is one of the most valuable things we possess. We have the privilege in living a world where our own values can be shared simply through the way we choose to present ourselves. Every single person has the opportunity to alter themselves in their own way and with even more acceptance, this has become so exciting. With so many inspirations and ideas constantly being shown to us across social media, style has become such an exciting part of life. It gives us the opportunity to make ourselves truly stand out and feel proud to be who we are. The ever growing world of style is so often such a positive atmosphere to surround yourself in. Learning and adapting depending on influences and often working in a way which builds on yours and others confidence. It is such a beautiful and freeing way to live. This piece is a small glimpse of this huge world but it allows us to share, inspire and understand. That is why style is so important.

This is our last issue as editors, so thank you to everyone who has made this happen. We hope you have enjoyed our work, i know we have enjoyed sharing it, but sadly, time has come to pass on the batton.

So sit back, enjoy, and get Inspired!

Natalie Cooper Magazine Editor Isaac Lewis Online Editor

A N K S

Courtney Brodrick

Olivia Withers

Madeleine Grice Woods

Grace Mcgee

Ashleigh Poole

Hesham Abdelhamid

S P E C I A

University of Gloucestershire

UOG Student Union

UOG Journalism and Magazine

Journalism and Production

A HUGE THANK YOU TO EVERYONE WHO HAS CONTRIBUTED TO THIS AMAZING ISSUE!

WE COULDN’T DO IT WITHOUT YOU.

L T H
CONTENTS 8. Why has frog fashion became popular 10. The world’s most fashionable Marxist 12. Maddison Ball photography 16. Saving the world in style 20. The style to feel free 22. Plus size clothing 24. The blind clown of Cheltenham 26. Canyon Moon clothing 28. Gender fluid fashion 30. The fashion world 32. Granny is the new chic 34. Shopping sustainably 36. CrImson Foster photography 40. Staple style or tailoring to trends 42. What you wear is who you are 44. One size doesn’t fit all 46. Jessica Medway photography
Artwork by Leanne Violet

FROG FASHION

The coolest fashion trend right now

AMAZON £5.99 SHEIN £7.49 SHEIN £15.49 AMAZON £10.99 ZARA £5.99

Why has frog fashion become popular?

In recent years, people have seemingly become obsessed with frogs. Slowly, the frog craze has made its way into the fashion industry, and they seem to be everywhere! Frog hats… frog shirts… frog hoodies… frog earrings… frog anything you can think of. Why do people suddenly love frogs and why do people love wearing them so much?

Cottagecore is a Gen Z created aesthetic which is based around living in the countryside. It’s inspired by the theme of romanticism, fairy tales and nature. In recent years, the LGBTQ community have sometimes used cottagecore style to express themselves. Frogs have become part of the cottagecore aesthetic because of the part they play in nature and fairy tales such as Princess and the frog.

When people dress with the cottagecore aesthetic, they may be aiming for a kawaii look. Japanese kawaii culture is centred around anything ‘cute’ such as Hello Kitty, which is one of the most popular things in Kawaii culture. Frogs have also become part of this, and in return, have become popular with the cottagecore style.

They’ve made their way into fashion, but why do people love frogs in the frst place? One of the reasons is Kermit the Frog! The frst Muppets movie came out in 1979, but Kermit is still remains popular because he’s had his fair share of famous moments over the years. Kermit has become well-known in meme culture because of how quickly memes can spread.

One being the ‘that’s none of my business meme.’ This screenshot from a Lipton Tea advert released in 2014 which pictured Kermit sipping tea, went viral. People would caption the meme with something such as an

opinion and then have a second line saying ‘but that’s none of my business.’ Since then, Kermit has continued to appear in memes and GIFS all over the internet.

Fast forward back to the present day, and you’ll know that TikTok has completely taken over the online world. Many people say they’re on ‘frog TikTok’, which is where the algorithm will show lots of frog videos. This includes videos of people rescuing frogs, growing frogs from tadpoles and people who have them as pets.

An example of this is @.baby.frogs, who posted videos all throughout 2021 and 2022, ultimately received millions of views. Some of these videos show tadpoles being saved and others show frogs in ponds, and people loved it. When you’re shown lots of something, it sticks in your mind, and this why some people have become frog obsessed.

I asked some of my friends who are frog obsessed, why they are frog obsessed?

Imogen Thomas said, “I love frogs because a guy at work loves them and used to put them in emails! I have bought a lot of frog things now because it’s funny.”

Kian Keshraghi-Yazdi said, “I have a frog bucket hat and like frogs because they are epic.”

Willow said, “I like their silly faces, they’re goofy, and they’re green.”

If you search on Etsy for ‘frogs’ there are 141,043 results, showing their increasing popularity. The results present lots of crochet frogs, frog stickers, frog T-shirts, frog bags and much more. Does frog fashion sound like something you would get yourself involved in? u

Che GuevaraThe world’s most fashionable Marxist

Our image sends a message. The way we choose to dress, wear our makeup, and style our hair is what makes us recognisable, and reveals an aspect of our personalities to the people around us. Our clothes can often be used to make a political statement, and Marxist Revolutionist Ernest ‘Che’ Guevara’s face is used for just that purpose.a

Guevara’s long hair and beret have been used to send a message across the globe, but why?

Well, the answer is complicated.

Born in Rosario, Argentina, Che Guevara was a revolutionist and political figure who played key roles in a coup in Guatemala, and the Cuban Revolution. He was a medical student with a desire to overthrow the capitalist exploitation of Latin America throughout the 1950s. He was later President of the National Bank of Cuba and played a major part in the Cuban government. He was nowhere near as famous until later in his life, with other leading revolutionaries such as Fidel Castro being photographed and reported on much more, until he was favoured by international political figures, pushing his image to mainstream media during the mid 1960s. Even before his media exposure, he had a very recognisable image, wearing a beret and military fatigues even during his time working in the government, and when giving speeches.

Students in the United States would grow their hair and beards out, and wear military fatigues and berets in order to resemble Guevara, as a display of rebellion against the US government he so vehemently hated. This style also caught on with the Black Panther Party, a MarxistLeninist and black power political organisation founded in the 1960s, who wore black berets. These are some of the earliest examples of Guevara’s image being used to represent leftist ideas, and the idea of revolution in general.

As time went on, Guevara’s picture (specifically Guerrillero Heroico taken by Alberto Korda) began being printed on everything: t-shirts, flags, badges, bags, and everything else you could think of; his face was everywhere; even celebrities, such as Jay-Z, Madonna, and even Prince Harry have been spotted wearing his image. David Segal said, ‘the guy’s face is shorthand for “I’m against the status quo.”’, and that couldn’t be truer. As time went on his face represented an idea more than a person, and even that idea was diluted. His widespread popularity caused many to forget about what he truly stood for and turned him into a mascot for anyone that considered themselves anti-establishment, making his politics more palatable for the everyday person.

The sad truth is, while so many people recognise his face, a good deal of them won’t know his story, and some won’t even know his name. Fashion can be a great tool to send a message, but oftentimes that message can be diluted and altered through time and popularity.

“while so many people recognise his face, a good deal of them won’t know his story”

Maddison Ball Photography

SAVING THE IN STYLE

THE WORLD

Fast fashion is a term we hear thrown around a lot these days, so much so that it’s almost beginning to lose its meaning. The Oxford English Dictionary defines it as “inexpensive clothing produced rapidly by massmarket retailers in response to the latest trends”. The big problem is the speed at which these trends cycle, meaning that people are more likely to throw away their fast fashion clothing to make room for newer items. With environmentalism becoming a trend, especially after the school climate strikes and Greta Thunberg’s speeches, it’s easy to shun fast fashion using performative activism; sharing posts Instagram stories, or by avoiding more expensive wasteful brands, like Zara or H&M, because people on social media are telling you it’s bad. But with cheap, trendy items being made more rapidly than ever, and TikTok encouraging people to “run not walk” to buy them, it’s hard to resist the temptation. It feels like Shein has grown, which has become very popular in recent years, despite the climate crisis becoming more prominent, and young people of the same demographic advocating for environmentalism. It’s crucial that we engage with environmentalism more actively, rather than just following trends, especially as we are the generation most responsible for making a difference.

Another term that has started to lose its meaning is the concept of ‘reduce, reuse, recycle’. People tend to forget the most valuable step: trying to reduce our consumption of new items, items which have created to fulfil the demands of the changing fashion world. We seem to have a fear of repeating outfits, and these days, social media pushes the concept of buying a new outfit for every special occasion. This is why it is more important than ever that we normalise seeing people re-wear the same outfits and discourage over-consumption. People overlook the idea of ‘shopping’ from your own wardrobe: try looking through what you already own and putting combinations together that you hadn’t previously considered.

There are several issues with over-consumption of first-hand clothing. Firstly, the amount of water used to produce a single item of clothing is astronomical, with an average of 2,700 litres needed to make a single cotton t-shirt. Secondly, the working conditions in factories for shops like Shein are awful, with the Guardian reporting that at one point, “some workers at factories supplying Shein reported working more than 75 hours per week”. And thirdly, the quality of new clothing is just not what it used to be, due to the growing demand for new clothing, as quickly as possible.

Reuse, Recycle.”

“Reduce,

Thankfully, there is a fairly simple solution. Charity shops provide two things: one, a place for clothes to go instead of straight to landfill when they are no longer wanted; and two, somewhere for people to shop for pre-loved clothes, which will last longer in their wardrobe. The idea of a ‘capsule wardrobe’ is central to this – the aim being to own clothes that exist outside of trends so that your outfits never go out of fashion. This makes it easier when choosing clothes in charity shops, but it also means that as a consumer, you won’t need to worry about buying new clothes to keep up with trends –something that is really important to a lot of people, especially in a cost-of-living crisis.

Charity shops provide high quality clothing for really affordable prices, and while sometimes it takes a bit of sifting through things to find something you like, that just makes it more rewarding when you do. Also, if you’re not sure on something, it’s easier to commit to buying it – if you decide you don’t like it later, you’ve only spent £3, it went to charity, and you can always re-donate the item! After you’ve been a charity shopper for a while, there is also something very satisfying about putting an outfit on and realising all of it is second hand. By shopping second hand, not only are you supporting charities, but you’re allowing the shops to continue running, improving the experience for more people. PLUS you’re saving clothes from landfill, and avoiding supporting the fast-fashion industry.

So next time you’re coming up with an outfit, try shopping your own wardrobe first, and if that fails you, shop someone else’s!

“There is something very satisfying about putting an outfit on and realising all of it is second hand.”

THE STYLE TO FEEL FREE.

Now I understand the difference in the end, It was never about the brands or the prices of these items, But what made them feel the closest to who they are underneath their skin, That colourful soulful child that wants to express and desperately live from deep within,

The style was not about what categories they fall in -but the confidence gained within, The same material as mine to them was the closest armour to feel like a free proud human being.

- K.P

Context: based on the realisation about someone who struggled to be comfortable when expressing themselves through clothing.

Illustration by Jade Henderson

plus size clothing: What are brands getting wrong?

‘Inclusivity’ is a token phrase

The word ‘Inclusivity’ is thrown around by every brand these days, with an aim to make themselves more woke. It’s vital for brands to meet expectations for a wide range of body types, and that’s unquestionable. However, the majority of fashion brands are simply catching on because the movement makes the brand look good. Plus-size isn’t a trend, it’s a body type. The average woman in the UK is a size 16, and Urban Outfitters doesn’t even offer this size in every piece. Yes, it offers an XL in a few select pieces which they ‘claim’ is an 18 (a very ill-fitting, much-too-small 18 if you ask any bigger woman). Yet, the first item on the new-in section of its website, a trendy denim skirt, goes all the way up to… size 32, a UK 14. Moreover, they only introduced a size XL in 2017, and this is one of the fashion world’s biggest brands. When the average size is a 16, this isn’t good enough, never mind not even catering for anyone above a medium in most of their items.

The perfect fit

Don’t get me wrong, it’s so great that brands are introducing plus sizes to their clothing lines to accommodate curvier people, but there’s something most of them aren’t getting right. Usually, a piece of clothing is made to fit a certain size. These clothes are then made in exactly the same fit, but bigger. A size 8 body isn’t the same as a plus size one – curves and proportions come into play, and so many fashion brands forget this. They need to take different shapes into consideration. This inevitably leaves plus size clothes with an unflattering fit. Instead, this could be solved by creating a design based on a model that’s the same size as the consumer the attire is made for. This would result in proportionate clothing, making people feel so much more confident.

More fabric, more money

It’s a fact that bigger clothes are going to use more fabric and resources. So, many brands reason that their lack of plus clothing and higher prices are rational. This is damaging in so many ways. Brands don’t charge more for tall ranges and it won’t cost someone who wears a size 10 more than someone who wears a size 6 to sport the exact same t-shirt. So why should plus size people pay more? There are even a whole host of brands who have written off the possibility of introducing bigger clothing options, because of this cost. Yet, oversized garments take up the majority of their ‘bestsellers’ page – if you can sell a size 20 blazer to someone who’s a size 8, why can’t you sell a size 20 blazer for a size 20 person? New Look came under fire in 2018 for selling the exact same pair of trousers at 15% more than their main collection in their plus size range. If the reason is down to using more fabric, wouldn’t the pricing issue influence tall and maternity collections? Even trouser lengths don’t impact prices, a 30” trouser will always cost the same as a 28”. If this was truly the reason, clothing would rise cumulatively in price. We can do better. The progressiveness of fashion inclusivity is clear and many brands are beginning to pave the way for others to follow, but we still have progress to make. Straight-sized bodies are still the ideal for the fashion industry – just take a look at the catwalk. Everyone deserves to be able to flaunt the latest trends in clothes that flatter and fit, and it shouldn’t come at this price.

The issue with plus size styles

Sure, there are a range of brands out there with their own plus size ranges, take ASOS for example. It dedicates a whole section of its website to catering for curvier people with clothing made to fit. Of course, it’s wonderful that brands are choosing this option, although it should be a given in a world where plus size women make up 68% of shoppers. You might think these bigger ranges have solved the issue here, but there’s still a major problem. Curvier people want the same stylish options, not a baggy jumper that hides their bodies. Why shouldn’t the same pieces be accessible for different body types, and when they rarely are, why can’t they just fit? Bold patterns and cute crops are all the trend, which makes it so much more disappointing when these styles aren’t catered to in plus size fashion. There’s always been a misconception that’s masked through ‘advice’ for plus size people: ‘You should wear darker tones, opt for loose fits and baggier clothing. Never wear horizontal stripes.’ This is harmful guidance and completely counteracts the body positivity movement, to be frank. It’s fine if this is of personal preference, but this shouldn’t be the only option. Everyone should be able to opt for fashionable pieces, not just basics. Curvy women want to wear fun, sexy and trendy styles too. Is this too much to ask?

The Blind Clown of Cheltenham Town

Idress like a blind clown. I’m fully aware and if I’m being totally honest with you, I fucking love it.

The indescribable combination of vertical stripes, horizontal waves, tie-dye, and brain damage form the core aspects of my fashion sense. Essentially, I’m a walking, talking, smoking washing basket.

Prior to October 2021, my go-to ‘fit’ on the daily was black skinny jeans, a white tee and copious, I MEAN COPIOUS amounts of hair products. Like SERIOUSLY... no open flames allowed. I had dressed in this way since I was a young lad and I had settled into the style quite well.

I was an ok looking guy, not too confident, but in no way shy. This was my day-to-day get-up. I was comfortable. I was warm. That was all that I gave a rat’s arse about. At this point in my life, I had just emerged from a nasty, somewhat abusive relationship where I was discouraged from expressing myself. My social life had tanked. I was lonely and goddamned depressed if I’m honest. I had fallen into a rut, and I was struggling to express myself in so many ways.

It was around then that I met someone who has become a key figure in my day-to-day existence, Mr. Bucket Hat Zack (BHZ to his mates).

BHZ with his tobacco smoking apparatus...Top geezer

This guy was there from the offset. As soon as I was in a state to socialise, he was ready and

willing to hang out. Honestly, I don’t know where I would be if I hadn’t met this guy. Ok, but how does this link to fashion I hear you say?

Well, this guy is a pretty smooth dresser... The best way to describe him is if Liam Gallagher fell into a vat of pure unbridled stoner essence. His unwillingness to give a flying FUCK about anyone else’s opinion has led to some rather questionable fits. However, it was this attitude to fashion that really piqued my interest. How was this guy so chill with what he wore?

Did he not care that people could dislike his style?

Looking back now, just over a year later, this was the kick up the ass that I needed. I had never considered exploring my own style. I had never thought about venturing away from the harmonious combination of jeans and a tee.

I’m from a conservative background in the middle of Buckinghamshire... It was rare to see any kind of outward expression like this. I feel like that was why it took me so long to bite the bullet and make a change.

Over a period of several weeks, I began making changes. I wanted to look outrageous (a goal that I have most certainly achieved). I changed my hairstyle for the first time in ten years, I threw out my old wardrobe and completely re-did my entire style. Shoes? Yes please!

When the dust settled and the fire (containing the majority of my old wardrobe) had died down, I was free.

I genuinely can’t describe the feeling. It was as if I was a new person. My life, my entire

personality had quite literally gone up in smoke. That was it...

I was born again into a new mindset and some vintage trousers. My newfound style gave me a second wind. Like a tortoise wearing 3D glasses, I saw the world in a whole new light. My entire perspective was changed in a matter of days.

From that point onwards, I was more social. I came out of my shell. I was introduced to some of the most amazing friends that I have ever had. My perspective on life improved infinitely.

My hair changes colour in my sleep...I swear

For me, fashion is a broad term with minimal constraints. Some strive to be stylish. Others covet comfort.

I, on the other hand, live for the double takes. Absolute comedy gold.

The open mouth nudge from one ultra-masculine contractor to the other. The confusion of the nun who simply can’t understand what she saw.

I exist purely to confuse. At the end of the day, I use fashion to express myself. The bold patterns and colours are simply a FUCK YOU to everyone who dissuaded me, to everyone who held me back from becoming this person. I know that the clashing patterns and bright colours are an offense on the eyes. But that’s the whole point.

Fashion is personal. The only person who needs to like it is you.u

My hair changes colour in my sleep...I swear

Canyon Moon Clothing

I learnt to crochet during the pandemic, and started making my own outfits. Whenever I wore an item I’d made - either to a party, the beach or just a general day at uni - there was always plenty of interest. Because of this, last summer I decided to start selling and taking commissions. I was heavily inspired by festival fashion and I love the idea that every piece I make is entirely unique. I’m really interested in the idea of slowing fashion down again because not only does it benefit the planet, but it gives more meaning to the items in your wardrobe.

How discriminating against gender-fluid fashion is an example of toxic masculinity.

Fashion is a form of self-expression that gives us a chance to show our likes, interests and personality through clothing. Clothing is supposed to make us feel confident and comfortable and does not need to represent our gender. In 2023, we are noticing that fashion is becoming broader in terms of inclusivity but judgement for certain outfit types can still be seen. However, fashion wasn’t always so divided; clothing was not gendered until recently. Originally, in ancient times, all people wore similar clothing regardless of their gender. Skirts which are classed as ‘feminine’ nowadays were once worn by everyone; Egyptians wore wrap around skirts called schenti, Greeks donned chitons, Aztecs had skirt-based military uniform and Romans showcased togas. Skirts were the go to choice no matter your lifestyle, whether you were in combat, building, farming or of religious background because they were easily constructible and allowed freedom of movement.

The development of trousers did not come until much later when skirts proved a difficulty during horse-riding. However, due to most cultures having a gender-preference over who rode horses, males tended to be the main occupants of this role, hence where the old saying ‘wearing the trousers/pants in the relationship’ originates from. It refers to the man being the head of the household and being the trouser-wearer.

Until the 14th century, both men and women continued to wear very similar attire, accentuating your curves was not a thing, clothing was simply deemed a necessity. Garments were practical rather than aesthetic due to little development in tailoring, meaning fashions didn’t change.

Yet, as technology began to develop and with it so did fashion culture, style designs began to change and in the 19th century gendered clothing became sensationalised. Along with this, fads and trends began to appear more often, changing a lot faster than they had previously. As fashion developed, seamstresses and designers began to focus more exclusively on “women’s” and “men’s” clothing, creating distinct agendas for each sex. As gender became an important societal construct, the way we dress became a way of upholding this.

In western society, gendered clothing became the norm, and it stayed that way with neither gender daring to step too far out of their assigned box. Toxic masculinity was increased due to the fear of appearing too feminine which had almost become taboo for men. However, within the safety of like-minded people, fashionistas thrived and experimented happily with clothing, gender and the social constructs placed on them. Despite fashion brands tending to be more ‘out there’ with their designs and widening their stance on inclusivity, there are still some brands not doing their part in accepting all of society. Razek, the chief marketing officer at Victoria’s Secret, claimed in 2019 that “transsexual” models should not be cast “because the show is a fantasy”, shortly after making this comment he resigned not long after the lingerie brand hired its first openly transgender model, Valentina Sampaio.

While celebrity outfits and runway collections are full of gender nonconforming pieces nowadays, on the streets in daily life, the fear of backlash has prevented much of our fashion stepping out the applied gender-norms.

Men in skirts have received mainstream resistance with critics citing the idea that, since the skirt is now allegedly feminine, a man wearing one is weakened. Not only is this argument incredibly sexist, but also historically inaccurate as it goes against everything civilisations once thought about skirts and dresses being male attire.

The idea is very western-centric, in many cultures, particularly in Asia, robes and skirts are completely acceptable for adult men. It’s important to note this as we label western celebrities wearing skirts ‘iconic’ while ignoring that it was white, western culture that eradicated free-gendered clothing for many. Reinforcing that western ideas about skirts and dresses are tied to our specific culture and don’t apply to every nation across the globe, who have no negative stigma and find it normal to wear robes.

Hence, clothing doesn’t have a gender, it is just an item of material, yet has become socially constructed over time.

Sociology suggests that socialisation from a young age shows that parents typically dress their children in gendered clothing from birth: blue for a boy and pink for a girl. Under the belief that girls naturally prefer soft colours to show their femininity and boys prefer bold colours to show their masculinity. However, this gender assignment in clothing is imposed from birth as parents purchase clothing for their children that reflect their own gender preferences.

Today, we still question men’s masculinity based solely on their appearance – whether we mean to or not. However, the past few years have seen the younger generations challenge society’s imposed boundaries, by being the least complaint to societal norms of Western typical gendered clothing. Resulting in a huge rise in popularity of gender-neutral fashion and the harmful stereotypes and prejudices about how people should dress are slowly declining. Becoming less of a taboo or non-conformist style and more popular. Proving this, in 2017 Balenciaga announced that the men’s and women’s collection will travel the catwalk together, no longer will there be a distinction between the two.

Gender fluid fashion has always existed, nonconforming people across cultures and eras always found ways to express themselves through clothing, whether this was done privately or within their social groups. It is just that nowadays the degree of representation is more widely known and accepted.

Drag queens have helped push the gender-boundaries of fashion forward but once again the history of drag goes back further than many believe. The term drag originates from as far back as the period of Shakespearean plays in the 16th century. The church was heavily connected to the stage and only allowed men to perform. Meaning all roles in British theatres were male and therefore men had to play the female roles, wearing dresses that would “drag” across the floor.

Androgynous styles continue to be popular, and celebrities are helping people become more accepting of this choice of dress. Harry Styles, Jayden Smith, Lady Gaga, Miley Cyrus, Timothée Chalamet are just some of the many influencing society at current time. But before these celebrities brought recognition to redefining fashion, celebrities before that left impressions, like Freddie Mercury and Elton John, Kurt Cobain and David

Bowie (just to name a few). Their performances on stage were more than just a concert, they were a fashion statement and a way of expressing their personality and tastes through clothing.

In December 2020, Harry Styles appeared on the cover of US Vogue. He was the first male in 127 years to feature on the cover and on top of this, he did so wearing a dress. Unsurprisingly, a wave of criticism ensued. This occurrence, alongside others at the Met Gala wearing skirts, was what brought the conversation of ‘feminine’ male attire into the western mainstream. However, along with the criticism came a lot of support and more people feeling confident enough to defy the haters.

In an interview regarding his experience of posing for the Vogue cover, Harry Styles said “I think if you get something that you feel amazing in, it’s like a superhero outfit. Clothes are there to have fun with and experiment with and play with. What’s really exciting is that all of these lines are just kind of crumbling away. When you take away ‘There’s clothes for men and there’s clothes for women,’ once you remove any barriers, obviously you open up the arena in which you can play. He also described gendering clothing as a way of holding yourself back, “it’s like anything—anytime you’re putting barriers up in your own life, you’re just limiting yourself.”

Harry takes a lot of inspiration from Mick Jagger during his performances but also in his way of not being shy to wear whatever he wants. Jagger also enjoyed embracing effeminate fabrics and flamboyant prints, challenging the rigid binary rules of masculine etiquette.

So, considering the history of androgynous style, why are some members of society still not ready to accept those that dress with androgynous style or exquisitely flamboyant? u

NYC Carrie “And just

And just like that. And just like that. And just like that. And just like that. And just like that. And just like that.

And just like that. And just like that. And just like that. And just like that. And just like that. And just like that. And just like that. And just like that. And just like that. And just like that. And just like that. And just like that. And just like that. And just like that. And just like that. And just like that. And just like that. And just like that. And just like that. And just like that.

Carrie Bradshaw is back! just like that”

that. that. that.

that. that. that. that. that. that. that. that. that. that.

“And just like that” Sarah Jessica Parker will be back on our screens this upcoming year as fashion icon, Carrie Bradshaw (in a pair of Louis Vuitton stilettos and a powder-pink tulle dress). Over the past 30 years, the Sex and The City star has astounded viewers with her high-fashion and later this year, she will be giving us another glimpse into her NYC wardrobe. As fans patiently wait for the premier of “And Just Like That” season two, we can question that over the last 30 years Carrie has seduced us with her fashion, but which designer dressed her the best? Viewers will say that as Bradshaw enters her late 50s, her fashion has remained timeless and iconic. Carrie has introduced us to some of the biggest designers in the industry and has taught us that heels can be styled with anything. Designers such as Christian Dior to the late Vivienne Westwood have had the honour to style the infamous NYC columnist. From her personal wardrobe to Vogue fashion shoots, Carrie owns some of the biggest fashion staples throughout the last three decades.

In my opinion, the 90s were one of the best years of Carrie’s fashion journey. She showed us that even after being the most heartbroken during this time, she could use fashion as her coping mechanism, still looking iconic in her lowest moments. In the mid 90s, she stunned viewers when she wore the Dolce and Gabbana hand painted floral maxi dress. This was one of the most stunning fashion pieces that Dolce and Gabbana ever created. The fact the dress was hand painted emphasises it was really one- of-a-kind and Bradshaw wore this dress seamlessly. Even though Dolce and Gabbana created such an astonishing piece, it was not the best. Picture this, the 2000s and fashion was emerging from low rise jeans to layered tank-tops and blue

eyeliner. The screenwriter of Sex and The City had broken Carrie and Big up (again) and Bradshaw was feeling somewhat philosophical. She stepped out of her brown-stone NYC apartment, in black Louis Vuitton stilettos and the most breath-taking midi dress in the fashion industry. It was the black and white newspaper dress from John Galliano’s AW00 collection at Dior. It became the definition of what the 2000s were supposed to be like, a time where single, metropolitan women could have it all.

As the iconic series came to an end after season 6, two sequel films came into light, which got viewers obsessed with Bradshaw and her NYC life- once again. The first film featured wedding dresses designed for Bradshaw to wear in an issue of Vogue magazine. Carrie couldn’t have described the ivory Vivienne Westwood dress better- “A dress so special, it could bring a wedding tear from even the most unbelieving of women”. This wedding dress was one-ofa-kind, and Bradshaw wore it like she was the luckiest woman in the world. After the recent news of Vivienne Westwood’s passing, this dress has once again taken over the media. Some of the biggest names in the fashion industry thanking Vivienne for creating such a masterpiece of a wedding dress. The official Instagram for “And Just Like That” posted a picture of this astonishing dress and wrote “Thankyou Vivienne!!! You were such a big part of our fashion lives! Rest in peace punk sistah x”

It is safe to say that whilst Bradshaw looked stunning in every outfit she wore, Vivienne Westwood’s wedding dress was truly a vision. It took over the fashion world and continues to do so. We can expect new fashion in season 2 of “And Just like That”, but as it stands currently, Vivienne Westwood takes the title of styling Bradshaw the best- fit for her NYC fairy-tale ending.

And just like that. And just like And just like that. And just like And just like that. And just like And just like that. And just like that. And just like that. And just like that. And just like that. And just like that. And just like that. And just like And just like that. And just like And just like that. And just like And just like that. And just like And just like that. And just like And just like that. And just like And just like that. And just like

GRANNY IS THE NEW CHIC!

As well as being an avid listener of Classic FM, there is nothing I would rather do than stay in at night sat up in bed with a blanket draped over my shoulders, reading a book.

It is a niche aesthetic, but it has really taken off and I hasten to admit that I have entered my Granny Era. But I am not the only one; Crocheting and knitting are the new craze, we are seeing a return to vinyl, charity shopping carries a lot less stigma, and I’m even seeing beautifully hand-crafted beaded glasses chains. Dare I say it, we are also seeing a return to good old-fashioned paper and pen; I believe there is truly nothing more romantic than writing letters, and nothing can compare to the excitement I feel when I receive handwritten postcards and letters in the post.

Moreover, the period dramas of the past were largely directed towards older audiences, such as Agatha Christie’s Poirot. They are now however tailored towards the younger generations with the likes of Bridgerton and Mr Malcolm’s List. One can only hope that Richard Osman’s Thursday Murder Club book series finally finds its way on to BookTok and perhaps even the silver screen – I personally cannot wait to become a septuagenarian solving crimes in a retirement village with my fellow pensioners.

Be it exchanging your North Face jacket for a knitted cardigan, your vape for a crochet hook, or your hair curlers for hair rollers, everyone should embrace their inner granny.

I truly hope that one day as a society we reverse the negative connotations of ageing, learn to “embrace the grey,” and enjoy the wrinkles!

Is there really any surprise that we have come to this – look to our own grannies. It’s a slightly unusual take, but they were the women of the sixties, fighting for their own liberation during the sexual revolution. Granted this doesn’t apply to all grannies, it certainly doesn’t for mine, but there were enough women back then defying all conventions who definitely deserve a rest. Let us follow in their footsteps and take ours.

Why my only New

is to shop sustainable

Year’s

Year’s resolution sustainable this year

It’s a Saturday morning in 2013, Starbucks hot chocolate in hand, and my 13th birthday money burning a hole in my pocket. My friends and I set off for a browse through the ‘grown-up’ rails of New Look and Primark with a mandatory stop-off at Claire’s. Thankfully, the Claire’s obsession did wane. But even now, 10 years later, I’ve not stopped shopping in the same high street stores to make up my wardrobe. However, I have made it my objective for the year to avoid the places I would once visit almost weekly.

Thrifting and sustainable brands have risen into the mainstream in recent years and it’s hard to miss the stream of information about major fast fashion brands flowing into the media. Brands like Shein are slated online for use of unethically sourced and poor-quality fabrics, exploitation of workers and plagiarising small businesses’ designs. I won’t lie, I have bought a lot from Shein over the years, completely due to ignorance. Not once did I question why the prices were so low but recently, because of the increase in media attention and the younger generation’s involvement in this, I did. Most of my friends shop predominantly, if not completely, slow fashion – in charity shops, kilo sales, apps like vinted and sustainable and ethical brands which has inspired me to change the way I shop.

Slow fashion, at its core, is ethically sourced materials made to last in the form of timeless garments. It’s designed with the environment and consumer in mind, to last much longer than that trendy blouse being mass-produced, only for a good proportion of it to never make it to a prospective owner. From friends and my own research, there are many UK brands taking sustainability and ethics seriously. A friend of mine only shops second hand except for the occasional purchase from Lucy & Yak. The brand which has stores in Brighton, Bristol and Norwich advertise as ‘people and planet focussed’, describing their products as ‘independent, organic and recycled clothing’ which are not only affordable, but cater to a variety of styles as well.

As well as shopping sustainably, it’s also possible to recycle old clothes into new ones yourself. In lockdown, I saw a lot of upcycling videos online which inspired me to try it. Unfortunately, my lack of sewing

skills should have shown that this wasn’t quite the best way for me to recycle clothes – I am still trying though. I did also pick up crochet around the same time, and I am trying to create some of my wardrobe instead of buy it. There are still things to think about in terms of sustainability, the yarn most of all should be carefully researched. Recently, on one of my many, many, TikTok scrolls, I saw someone unravelling an old or thrifted jumper to use the yarn in a new project which I can’t wait to do.

There are trends emerging from sustainable fashion. One of the most recent and prominent is the return of Y2K. The initial resurface could be down to the increase in popularity of thrifting of recent years. It’s cool to wear your mum’s old jumper, thrift something vintage and make your own clothes – which is a great thing – but now these ideas are surfacing in the mainstream. They’re being replicated by fast fashion brands to take a complete U-turn in the sustainability of the Y2K comeback. They are quick to jump on trends and quickly turnover garments reflecting them which has seen a complete switch in the clothes on the rails of high street stores to reflect the looks of the 2000’s. It’s easier to pop down to H&M to find the jumper you’ve just seen on their Instagram than look for a needle in a haystack thrifting, which is how it feels for me. I love thrifting and it’s a great feeling finding something you’ve been trying to find for months, but equally, you may never find it. I’ve been looking for a long black wool coat for winter in charity shops since November. Winter will be over soon, and I’ve been cold for most of it.

Personally, it’s unrealistic for me to vow to only shop second hand. I love to spend a day browsing charity shops but for me and my shape – and my impatience –as a mid-size woman it can be hard to find something that caters to our tastes as well as bodies. My personal style has constantly been changing since I was young, but when I’m happy with what I’m wearing, it has a huge effect on my mood. What I can, and will, vow to do alongside continuing to search for second-hand finds is put time and research into exclusively shopping at brands that have sustainability at the forefront of their ethos.

CRIMSON FOSTER PHOTOGRAPHY

What you wear Who you are =

Why it’s important to express yourself through clothing.

What you wear can shape important factors in your life such as wellbeing and personality. It can shape how you see yourself and how others see you. Knowing what you feel comfortable in is key to expressing yourself the right way for you. Although of course, people can only make an opinion of you and it may not be correct, but it is about whether or not that bothers you. You could be drawn to a new trend that you wouldn’t normally wear, like if you are an introvert for example like me, you can still rock patterns or ‘loud colours’ and feel good about yourself. It can even make you appear more confident or feel better in social situations. But the great thing about style is a sense of freedom to pick out what you like to wear. You don’t have to fit into one big box.

In terms of wellbeing, feeling good in an outfit can increase your confidence and have a positive impact on your day. It can lift you up and make you feel like you fit in with your surroundings in the best way. Not to mention, people can truly see the impact it has on your appearance and level of confidence you show, even if you don’t feel it in the situation.

Often when you have favourite pieces in your wardrobe, it brings you joy to pick them out and put them on for the day. This contributes to great wellbeing and can have a positive impact on your entire day. You may even have a favourite print or style that makes you feel good, a love for dressing up for a formal occasion or a love for fitness wear. Even wearing the right kind of fitness wear could increase your performance and give people certain opinions of you depending on what style you go for.

Sometimes, we even see people in work uniform who may add a touch of their favourite jewellery or wear some funky shoes, just to show off who they really are. There are always ways to add in your personality and what you feel comfortable wearing. Even piercings and tattoos count and can show what we like and how we like to look, it isn’t just within our clothes but other aspects of our appearance.

I definitely invite you to explore your style and have fun with clothing that you have or buy. Maybe go through some of your pieces now and see which pieces make you feel different ways. Does that floral blouse make you excited for Spring? Do those shorts bring you back to beach times? Do you feel like your best self in that hat? Does that pair of trousers remind you of who were at college? Whatever you find, there is bound to be a story behind it. From your clothes to your jewellery, to your bag, your style can really tell a story; the story of you.

one size doesn’t fit all

As someone who has struggled with my own body image massively over the last few years and being selfconscious of the way people view me, it is becoming increasingly hard to ignore the stereotypes of fashion and how social media is a platform for such negativity. The issue is more prominent within teenagers and young adults, with more than 31% reporting to have felt ashamed of their physique.

This is a topic that frequently comes up in conversations with my friends, and I can honestly say that the majority of them have experienced feelings of negativity about the way they look. This is an important conversation to have with people you are close to, so you can understand what headspace they are in and how they regard their being. But in some situations, it is fairly obvious that someone doesn’t like their body. However, those that keep these thoughts inside their head don’t have anyone to dissuade them. My flatmate told of how, “a s I get older, the more complexed I feel as I look at my reflection in the mirror and see a body I don’t like. I think social media idealises a certain body type and we are expected to follow this. It’s hard to break out of the cycle of toxicity.”

There are many factors that cause negative feelings, however, when media constantly promotes unrealistic ideals of beauty, diet talk, body shaming, thinspiration and weight loss posts, this definitely doesn’t help those going through the self-demeaning feelings. These posts and ads are often made by non-professionals who are likely to be intentionally or unintentionally promoting unhealthy cleanses and diets. When seeing these posts, it is hard to avoid thinking about your weight and calorie consumption. People become obsessed

with the notion of losing weight so they can look like what they see online. The Mental Health Foundations survey found that 40% of young people 'said that images on social media have caused them to worry in relation to their body image.’ In many cases this can lead to body dysmorphia, anxiety and eating disorders. In the UK, there are between 1.25 and 3.4 million people affected by an eating disorder, with the number constantly fluctuating. According to Priory, this psychiatric disorder has the highest mortality rates. Many cases of people with eating disorders show their social media usage to be high, meaning they were likely exposed to high content of fashion influencers and exercise plans.

Social media only propels the issue further forward by introducing beauty filters, and some users also indulge in photoshop before posting. Photoshop tools can be used to even out skin tones, hide blemishes, whiten teeth, change your figure, or even reconstruct your stature. Figures in a study carried out by a professor at UCL in 2021, show that 90% of women report using a filter or editing their photos before posting. Young women in the study also described regularly seeing advertisements or push notifications for cosmetic procedures, particularly for teeth whitening, lip fillers, and surgery to enhance face and body features.

Families like the Kardashians are very influential in the world of fashion and beauty to the point where they have created many of the now-accepted beauty standards of the last decade. Women and beauty enthusiasts envy their curvy figures and aspire to be like them. It has got to the point where their looks are so desirable that ‘the Kardashian Effect’ has begun to take place, this term is used to describe the rise in number of teens and young adults seeking plastic surgery treatments to enhance their looks.

Whilst I am all for feeling secure in your body and doing what it takes to help you gain that feeling of content, if we weren’t so exposed to these drastic extremities of body modification in the first place then the insecurities would never have worsened to the extent of seeking surgery to conform to such beauty standards.

The issue at the heart of most insecure individuals is the judgement of others and themselves. I have witnessed many young women and men on social media be the subject of keyboard warriors, who feel it is okay to comment on pictures leaving degrading messages. Every year this issue spikes when Love Island comes back onto our screens; the contestants are often victims of cyber abuse, receiving death threats and putting them down about their weight, or objectifying them in sexual ways, through use of detrimental names such as ‘slag’. Amber Gill, the 2019 winner of the show received 3000 daily abusive comments. This isn’t just an online problem though, as it can often be witnessed in public places when those wearing short outfits get cat-called, and sometimes people feel too uncomfortable to wear certain pieces of clothing. Student, Jordan, tells of how this affects her, “if we both wore the same outfit, it would look very different on me compared to what it would on you because we have different body types. It would be acceptable for you to go out wearing a crop top with a low neckline but if it was me, I would probably be told to go home and change.”

Whilst body image is talked about a lot in terms of how women feel in regard to it, and as a society, the male side of the problem is not talked about enough. This is not a one-genderonly issue. Many men feel that they feel emasculated; making them weak to admit to such insecurities. Student, Jakub, described how he compares himself to “better looking guys” and believes that he got this mindset partially from media consumption, which is “a platform to those better looking people, they can come across as condescending to people who do not fit that aesthetic.”

The modelling industry exemplifies this as they don’t reflect the overall average weight of society. Through anonymous survey responses, researchers found that 81% of models would be classified as underweight and many turn to unhealthy methods to keep the weight off. Approximately 40% of models

have eating disorders, although experts believe this number to be much higher. 62% of models polled by The Model Alliance reported being asked to have to lose weight or change their shape or size by their agency or someone else in the industry.

Considering that ‘plus size’ equates to over 60% of UK women, the under-representation of these sizes on fashion websites and advertisements when shopping for clothes can make it hard for plus-sized customers to gauge how an outfit will look on them if they can only see what it looks like on someone with the opposite body type. In addition to this, Victoria Secret hired Barbara Palvin in 2019 and the media quickly labelled her as plus sized despite her only being a UK size 8. Some online sources describe the requirements to be a Victoria Secret Angel, with one being your body fat percentage has to be lower than 18%. Health websites like BuiltLean say that a healthy body fat percentage for an average woman is 25 to 35% while 15 to 17% is considered very low for a woman. Once again, the fashion industry promotes unhealthy images of body weight to impressionable audiences.

Fast fashion can also impact us in ways we may not even realise. Women tend to blame their own bodies for ill-fitting clothing, which is usually the product of fast fashion. Clothing of this style is made quickly and consideration to correct sizing lessens, it needs to be made fast so that it can go out with current onfashion pieces. People don’t get measured for clothing anymore as this doesn’t fit fast fashion regulations, so clothing doesn’t always fit to the size it says (e.g. too tight in one area but too loose

According to multiple websites, fashion trends are changing faster now than ever before, they have even split into 2 types of trend cycles: micro-fashion (lasting 3-5 years) and macrofashion (lasting 5-10 years), but it is becoming more often for a style to last less than a year. Hence, the increase in fast fashion which is accelerated by social media and influencers that promote fashion to easily

Many young people go through a phase of being so conscious of the way they look that they find it difficult to have the mentality of wearing things to please yourself instead of for the sake of the watchful eyes of social media. Once we regain the mindset of dressing in what makes you comfortable, this is when we begin to boost our confidence and self-esteem. u

Jessica Medway Jessica Medway

photography: @jmedwayphotographyy clothes: soupcans
Photography Photography

Check out more: @FARIDthezine

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