– CONTENTS –
WHATS INSIDE? feature INTERVIEW
FASHION & SPOTLIGHT
22
on the dark side
20 tnbp
36
ali charisma
38
earth & sea
56
58
bare essentials
wynn models
articles & SCOOP 10
New Bohemian Style Feminine and Eclectic
73
horoscope
34
From Karl Lagerfeld Rubber Shoes to Eccentric Lurex pumps
74
karma konversations you are what you edit
every girl should have...
76
indonesian fashion scene now part 2
66
have a crate day!
80
heart kingdom absolute tropical
72
to take care of your baby
82
music mayer hawthorne
48
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– EDITOR’S NOTE –
“To inspire and to be inspired”
However, we don’t stray from the basics. Our fashion articles tell us how to glam it up and wear it right! Meanwhile, our contributor Katya take us to the discovery of the Indonesian Fashion Designers.
This month, we take a closer look at the new brand in town — TNBP. We speak to Rika, Rob & Mark from the office about the brand’s identity and the latest collection. We also got the chance to discuss with one of the favorites Indonesian designer — Ali Charisma. On a more serious note, WYNN Models tells us about the blessing of representing the most amazing models in Indonesia.
Xxx
Our excitement for the issue is no secret. Check out our editorials of the talented G. Aside from the fashion spreads by Nicoline Patricia Malina & Natasha.
Happy reading!
Fauve PS: special thanks and big kisses to FAUVE & WYNN Girls! Love you ;)
Ph ot og ra ph y: NI CO LIN E PA TR ICI A MA LIN A
FAUVE ADVICE: All Fashion Editorial images, created by an array of photographers and creative teams, printed within Fauve Magazine can also be viewed in their HIGHEST QUALITY online at www.fauvemagazine.com. Visit our website to see past and present shoots. Copyright © 2014 all right reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, without written permission from FAUVE, opinions expressed in “FAUVE” are the writer’s and not necessarily endorsed by FAUVE. FAUVE is not responsible or liable in any way for the contents (advertising included)
H a i r : Jef f ry Welly
– fashion –
New Bohemian Style; Feminine and Eclectic
BY rai It’s more than just a look or trend. It’s a bohemian style! From the images of being individual, romantic and free-spirited, bohemian new mood is eclectic and also feminine. Imagine trunk with some details, folkloric imagery and fairytale elements. Let’s be creative and have your own style. Once, Riccardo Tisci from Givenchy, showed a new bohemian looks that we could say; very womanly and inspired by the street. The collections bring the new mood, with softly printed and sheer offering a glimpse of a bra underneath, combine with black stockings and strappy heels. Not to forget the animal prints too. Up to this, I also note that the very unique collection by Burberry Prorsum. Look at the hand-painted bags, shoes, tapestry totes, scarves, blankets, and toggled belts, and the mix and match. It is a very adventurous. It seems, the designer Christopher Bailey creates the Bloomsburry Girls with vision of the sort of free-loving boho poppies.
Meanwhile, Dolce and Gabbana bring a fairytales. Exploring folkloric tone and fantastic riot of fairies, princesses, owls, foxes, squirrels, and swans. It is charmingly naive application. One of the items that steal the scene is the owls on a blue brocade shift. It is very cute and sophitisticated. Not to miss the collections by Mary Katrantzou. She works with laces, jacquards and brocades, and play with prints of signs and symbols. The collections are presenting the discipline of symmetry as well. What’s this is all about? If you think, bohemian means flow peasant skirts and flip flops, or messenger bags. It’s so old fashion, gals. Now, it is time to change. An important aspect of bohemian style is individuality, which means you can embrace your own personality and expressing it through your fashion choices. Bohemian is about following your own inspiration. But, it’s no one wears it before? That does not matter. If you love to, then that’s all matters. One thing that is so important in bohemian style; you have to use your imagination. Imagine this; if you have white shift dress, try to pair in with a brown shawl or a red trench coat,
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black tights and a vintage turquoise belt. Look at the mirror? Get it? Bohemian style is often called hippiechic or boho-chic. Any woman can have this style, even she is more defined and lady-like. It is possible since bohemian style followed your own taste and no one else’s. This is an essential of bohemian outlook on style. Based on some studies, the original ‘bohemians’ were travellers or refugees from central Europe (French “gypsy”). Then, in the 1990s the term, “hippie chic”, was applied to Tom Ford’s collections for the Italian house of Gucci. Have one of them? Talk about bohemian, it will remind people also about the style of Talitha Getty, actress wife of John Paul Getty and step-granddaughter of Dorothy “Dorelia” McNeil. Her style with full skirts and bright colours become famous and called “Dorelia Look”. Richard Neville, then editor of Oz, ever wrote that “the dapper drifters in embroidered skirts and cowboy boots were so delighted by the bright satin ‘50s underwear favoured by the matrons of Marrakesh that they wore them outside their denims à la Madonna twenty-five years later”. One of the act in pop world that might be unforgettable.
Time flies, and everything’s changes. In the early 21st century, “bohochic” was associated initially with supermodel Kate Moss and then, as a highly popular style in 2004, with actress Sienna Miller. In America similar styles were sometimes referred to as “bobo-” or “ashcan chic”, or “luxe grunge”, their leading proponents including actresses MaryKate Olsen and Zooey Deschanel. Not only in America, established in 1993, the UK clothing label ‘OVERIDER’ described as ‘the brand of a free spirit’ and favoured for its understated, effortless, bohemian style exemplifies the 2014 Boho-chic trend. What about the word ‘bohemian’ itself? For the first time, in 1848 William Makepeace Thackeray used the word bohemianism in his novel Vanity Fair. In 1862, the Westminster Review described a Bohemian as “simply an artist or littérateur who, consciously or unconsciously, secedes from conventionality in life and in art”. In modern usage, then, the term “bohemian” is applied to people who live unconventional, usually artistic, lives. The adherents of the “Bloomsbury Group”, which formed around the Stephen sisters, Vanessa Bell and Virginia Woolf in the early 20th century, are among the bestknown examples. The ideas that seems inspired Burberry Prorsum nowadays. Reflecting on the fashion style of “boho-chic” in the early years of the 21st century, the Sunday Times thought it ironic that “fashionable girls wore ruffled floral skirts in the hope of looking bohemian, nomadic, spirited and non-bourgeois”, whereas “gypsy girls themselves ... are sexy and delightful precisely because they do not give a hoot for fashion”. By contrast, in the late 19th century and first half of the 20th, aspects of Bohemian fashion reflected the lifestyle itself. And now, what comes in your mind when we talk about ‘bohemian”? Yes, it is casual, hippie 70-s style, ethnic and vintage. But remember, the key to achieve a boho chic style is considering what colours to wear, details, mix and match and find out boho inspiration.
Bohemian’s accessories Talking about bohemian style will not complete without their boho accessories. As I stated before, for getting this style, one has to pay attention more to details, and it includes for their accessories. For example, boho jewelery layers of necklaces, metal and wood mix bracelets, stack rings and long earrings. There are also boho scarves, with the boho print style. Bohemian fashion layering, wear the scarves as a necklace. Hope you know how to practice it. Then, making people impress not that easy. You should not to forget the boho handbags. A bohemian handbag can be mixed with other
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prints to create a super-cool eclectic look. And final touch by boho shoes, as beaded sandals, slouch and moccasin boots, or leather gladiator sandals. Go get your own bohemian style now! * Images/style
Cool
&
the Glam
Photography: G. | Model: Helene for FAUVE Agency Wynn Models | HMU: Julhenry & Yeanne | Graphic design: janina limantara
All garments by Limited Edition
All garments by Limited Edition
all garments by Prisoners of St Petersburg
shirt and Jewels by Limited Edition | Sunglasses by Prisoners of ST Petersburg
all garments by Prisoners of St Petersburg
all garments by Prisoners of St Petersburg
All garments by Limited Edition
– interview / designer –
TNBP
provoking thought
the industries leading designers such as ‘Rick Owens’, ‘Comme des Garsons’ and ‘Balenciaga’. Over this time we have also developed our strong design aesthetic which set a foundation and created an instantly recognizable design signature which is now carrying us on into our fourteenth season. What message do you try to convey in each collection? The main line collections are a construct of process and craftsmanship, tactile narratives open for the interpretation of the reader. The illustrative element is a homage to rock legends and events gone by, but twisted with more relevant personal experiences and positive message of strength and belonging.
BY FAUVE Where does the name tnbp come from? What inspired this name. T.N.B.P. stands for ‘Tuesday Night band Practice’. The name and label are inspired by our love of music and design but more importantly we always have band practice on a Tuesday night! How would you describe the tnbp clothing customers? We see our customers being inspiring individuals, free thinkers who share our passion for creativity, music and have an appreciation of fine, hand finished garments. What are your basic design principles? ‘Glory may only last for one day , but obscurity will last forever!’ Where do you seek inspiration? Wherever the road takes us! We are lucky enough to travel and be a part of many interesting cultures and events due to the nature of our business. Our music and personal experiences are also a key part of our inspiration & design process. When you team this up with a need for experimentation whilst trying to discover and create new processes and techniques you get some very interesting ideas and views emerging. What do you think it is about tnbp that makes it so rock ,trendy and modern? I think its the honesty of the brand and what we do. We have a genuine love for music as musicians and clothing as designers so its this passion that can be seen when you look at the collection. We aren’t just trying to take the path of a ‘fashion label’ as people expect, we do things in our own way and follow our own ideals to create something truly unique and subversive. I think its these aspects that have helped us create such an interesting & loyal following. How have your collections evolved since the first one? What started out as ‘band practice’ on a Tuesday Night has now evolved into a full menswear and womenswear line, selling in stores internationally alongside some of
What is your preferred season and why? Autumn/Winter is usually our season of choice. We can really get our teeth into these bleaker times with the layering of fabrics and the use of a multitude of hand woven and hand finished techniques to create armour against the cold. Its incredibly satisfying to wrap up and protect yourself against the elements in something you have created. Is there anybody that tnbp is dying to dress. We like to dress and support the local musicians and talent who have supported us. We have dressed many high profile artists and bands such as ‘Axl Rose’ and ‘The Script’ but if we could dig someone up and dress them it would have to be Jimi Hendrix as he had a unique flamboyant style and finesse. It would be an immense challenge to get him to wear something Black. What has been your most memorable moment to date and why? That would be our launch party in London. It was epic!! The amount of support we had was unbelievable and truly appreciated. It was a completely debouched scene of music, fashion and terror! What can we expect from your next collection? The 14th Chapter will see us refining our signature hand finished, design details and once again trying to push the boundaries of creativity in fabric development and garment treatments. A new seasons soundtrack will set the mood and tone for this ominous AW15-16 collection. www.tnbpclothing.co.uk Copyright picture: Kyoung Kim
– 20 –
– fashion –
From Karl Lagerfeld Rubber Shoes to Eccentric Lurex pumps
BY rai In fashion, inspiration comes from everywhere. So do these, let’s say, the eccentric and fun shoes. From Karl Lagerfeld look, technicolor to metal scaffolding heels. We never know that how imagination can turn into something interesting and inspiring until we find them. And it is so hard to choose absolute favourite shoes or what trends by now. Once, I urge you to take some time and look back on your wardrobe. Do you find any kind of funky, practical and fun shoes there? You might have any ideas to have different look, right? Like Sienna Miller with her boho style or the iconic Audrey Hepburn in the 1950s-60s. Try to wear a cowboy boots, shoes with buckle details, the one with non traditional shapes, or might be a pointy flats. Yes, it might be a bit tricky to have them. But, it never goes wrong, at least give it a try.
This year, more than hundreds funky shoes in the market and so hard to choose. They have different shape with full of colours, unique and sometimes quirky. And we have big three shoes that steal our attention today that you may need to take a look and consider. Who knows, one of them will distract and make you confident. We start from Miu Miu lurex pumps. Do you see that funky heels in there? Yes, that’s one of the reasons. Besides, it is not only one colour, but many. The ranges are from red to blue and white. As I did, you might already imagine how to mix and match it to have a fabulouslook, right? Actually, designer Miuccia Prada presented Miu Miu with eccentric shoes at her presentation in Paris couple of months ago for Fall 2014. Among the collections, those shoes distract more. It is a mini version of the supportive metal scaffolding poles was formed as heels for shoes. She might say that normality is weird. And however, in fashion, it is absolutely true.
– 34 –
The design of the shoes is luxury but quirky. Obviously, through this collection, Miu Miu also release a statement pumps. It is a sleek juxtaposition of girly with industrial. The shimmering lurex and silk bows offer on the sturdy heel comprising a scaffold of bolts and screws. It’s kind of weird, no? Some of us are crazy about shoes, and sometimes even gladly sacrifice comfort to style. Don’t we? But, luckily when some designers working together and release some funky look footwear and still comfortable to wear, function but fashionable still. Then, we have another funky shoes that inspired by the look of fashion legend; Karl Lagerfeld. As his trademark look; white hair, black tie, and dark sunglasses, so do the collections. This rubber footwear was made by Melisa and Karl Lagerfeld. Meliss is a plastic footwear brand from Brazil known for its collaborations with some of the top names in fashions. Before Karl, there is a Jason Wu, Jean Paul Gaultier and Vivenne Westwood.
Actually, there are four collections that designer Karl signed on with Melissa shoes. One of them that quiet popular is the quirky and cool as ice cream heels. But this one look fine as well. Whether you choose black tie or white one. And we should not to forget another item such as the Melissa Karl peep toe platform pumps-ultra girl high heels. All eyes must be on you, since these fun peep toe pumps as part of their collaboration features sunnies inspired bows at the top. Last but not least, we do like the Repetto’s arty cork series of Zizi and Cendrillon shoes. It’s said limited collection only 300 pairs each around the world. The shoes are made in France with original splashes of colourful paints. It’s kind of Jackson Pollock-inspired footwear. Who is Jackson Pollock? He was an influential American painter, and a major figure in the abstract expressionist movement. He was well known for his unique style of drip painting. There is always interesting to see the collection of Repetto. Before release
these technicolours collections, Repetto had collaboration with Greek designer Mary Katrantzou, and produce the iconic ballet shoe label Repetto to create a hypnotic capsule collection. A bit flashback, in 1947, Rose Repetto created her first dance shoes in a workshop close to the Paris Opéra, on the advice of her son Roland Petit. Six decades on, the Repetto brand has its own ready-to-wear line and continues to manufacture legendary ballet pumps and brogues. Inspired by the label’s well-known expertise, Mary Katrantzou offers a series of unique prints. Don’t you think the shoes are practical and fun too? Designer trends change all the time, especially when it comes to shoes. What you have to do then is to make sure you are up on all the latest fashions. Take a look at any guides and shoe reviews to find the perfect ones. Why is so important? I tell you, stylish heels, ballet flats and well pumps can really pull an outfit together. Figuring out which shoes looks best is part of what make getting dressed so fun.
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Among those three designs, we cannot decide which on the best. Each of them has different style. And figure out that three of them in different fabric as well. There are rubber, cork and using some metal scaffolding. What an interesting thing is the collaboration of some top designer with shoe brands and the use of imagination and pop arts. It give us a new prediction what will be happening or ‘in’ for the next year. You get it, right? * Images: style/polyvore/repetto/ bagaholicboy
– interview / designer –
– 36 –
ALI CHARISMA L’elegance a l’etat pur
BY katya How would you describe the ‘Ali Charisma’ Woman? Strong, Feminine, and Decisive. What are your basic design principles? Look good and Fell Good. Where do you seek inspiration? All over the world, but mostly in the place that i live. Do you have a muse? Now we dont have it, but i would love to have it like Rihanna or Pink. What does your average day entail? Almost 80% of my time taking care of the business. The rest for designing and back and forth Denpasar Jakarta.
What message do you try to convey with each collection? Its always different for each collection. But generally for convience our buyer to stay with us, and to gave the message for the next fashion trend..
What do you hate most about fashion? Changing so fast.
Which is your preferred season, Spring or Fall and why? Fall. Because i can play with a lots of detail and fabrics.
If you could give women one piece of fashion advice, what would it be? Always wear something that make you more confident.
A lot of celebrities wear your gowns to big events. Does what they wear draw interest to the particular gown worn, or to the Ali Charisma brand as a whole? Usually they used as the whole of the brand.
www.alicharisma.com
What has been your most memorable moment to date and why? My first show in Bali on 2001, which is very bad. What do you love most about fashion? The process.
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What can we expect from your next collection? Geometrical lace with ethnic touch.
earth & sea Photography: G. | Model: zahara for fauve agency | hmu: julhenry & yeanne | clothing: ali charisma
– FASHION –
EVERY GIRL SHOULD HAVE… BY mia Every girl should possess some accessories in her wardrobe that are essential for the fall season. With the cooling temperatures, it is imperative that her choice of clothes also shifts accordingly. As it is not possible to go shopping every change of season; it is always good to keep certain clothes handy to tackle the colder months. Here are the 7 essential accessories that every girl must have in her wardrobe:
--- - - - - - ------ - - - ----- ------ ---
--- - - - - - ------ - - - -----
--- - - - - - ------ - - - ----- ------ --Boots: Be it a pair of high boots or cowboy ones, these look stylish and trendy with different types of dresses. You can wear skin tight jeans along with these, while leggings will also work perfectly fine. Apart from that, you can also pair your denim skirts with these boots. These boots will actually save your feet from rain and early snow in the winter season.
Black dress: If you have heard that a black dress is essential for every woman, you have heard it right. A sleek and elegant black dress can be worn to any formal occasion like a business party or a meeting. You can pair this dress with any type of sweater you like. The color of your top can be either dark or light, depending on your choice. It can also be worn to a dinner or a party with friends. This dress will make you look just right, neither too formal nor too casual.
A black blazer: You can either choose a formal blazer or a casual one, depending on your choice. However, to be on the safer side, it is better to have a blazer that is a blend of both. As black is a universal color, it is the safest one to opt for. You can wear this blazer on a lunch outing with friends or to a business presentation. Choosing the right shirt or dress to be worn with the blazer is essential for a stylish look. For business meetings, it is best to wear a buttoned shirt under the blazer. However, when you are going out with friends, you can easily slip in a casual top beneath the blazer with a pair of jeans or a skirt.
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Purses and handbags: Carrying an oversized bag to a business dinner is a definite no, and a clutch would work better for such an occasion. Hence, it is imperative for women to have different types of handbags with them. Purses, clutches, oversized handbags, beach bags and stylish wallets should be a part of your closet. An oversized bag is good for the fall season as you would need to stuff the layers of clothing that you wear in case you suddenly start feeling warm.
Scarves and headgear: Well, the best thing about winter is the opportunity to wear different types of scarves and headgear. Woollen caps can be paired with jeans and tee-shirt for a casual and trendy look. Also, you can combine different printed scarves with your blazer or jacket in order to get a cool and chic appearance. You can find different types of printed scarves on Tiger People, which will look good with any winter outfit. You can also try different styles of tying the scarf, which can help create a variation in your look.
Jackets: Half sleeves or full sleeves, jackets come in different forms, fabrics, and styles. The most popular ones would be leather jackets that give you a smart look and provide warmth too. Apart from this, you should also have a puffed jacket in your closet that will be useful when it starts snowing.
Warmers: This is one of the main things that everybody would need in the winter months. Wooly leggings prove to be beneficial for sub-zero temperatures, especially for women who venture out in the cold on a daily basis. These help in keeping your legs warm and cozy, even when the mercury dips really low.
Winter months can become particularly pleasurable with the right clothing. Wearing different layers of clothing is best during these months. This will not only provide the warmth that you are looking for, but will also make you look stylish and chic.
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– 55 –
– interview / Models Agency –
WYNN MODELS INDONESIA One word only: Blessing !
Copyright Yogie Pratama
BY katya I get the pleasure to know abit more about Wynn through my friend Adwin, Director of Wynn Models Indonesia, the best Models Agency in Jakarta. Here is what transpired from our lovely meeting. May u tell us a bit more about wynn models indonesia? How does it start? Wynn Models Indonesia is one big family with the models and the rest of the team. With one another we are not just work mates, but we are the best of friends and family. Wynn Models Indonesia was established in February 2013. Before Wynn, I was already working in this industry for 10 years. And then my girls gave the idea that we should start our own agency. That’s how Wynn Models Indonesia started. Based on togetherness and familiarity. I heard that your girls work with you since ages, they talked about being in a family agency, how do you feel about it? I am very happy and feel lucky to know them and to be surrounded by the nicest girls. I am most pleased to see my girls grow from nothing into being a great model. Wynn Models Indonesia is a blessing to all of us.
How is going the modeling business in jakarta? What about other areas in indonesia? Modeling business in Jakarta is very good. The fashion industry is going strong here and plenty of foreign models want to come and work here. As for other cities, Surabaya, Bandung and Bali is becoming a very good market as well. Tell us about the rules of wynn agency? In our agency, we don’t really have official rules. We are, like said before, a family agency. We run it like family. As long as we keep a good attitude for ourself, we stay humble, and we take care of each other, that is enough. So far, our models know that when it’s time to work, they stay professional. Outside work, we joke and hang out like family. What are u looking for when recruiting or scouting for new models? Definitely the personality! That is most important. I also like uniqueness and long legs. What hopes and vision do you have for wynn models indonesia? I would like very much for my agency to go international. For our girls to show the world what they can do, and do Indonesia proud. www.wynnmodelsindonesia.com
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Copyright Danjyo
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bare essentials Photography: nicoline patricia malina | Photo assistants: Agus Santoso & Stephani Agusta Triana Model: Marcella & Retih for WYNN Models Indonesia | make up: Rommy Andreas Sasuwe | Hair: Jeffry Welly
– Spotlight –
HAVE A CRATE DAY!
Breakfast Bondi-style comes to Canggu ... but without the Sydney prices ... hoorah!
By Katie truman Long-term Bali resident and Sydney native, Maree felt a really good breakfast joint – in the vein of those trademark Bondi, Darlinghurst and Sydney Inner-eastern suburb brekkies – was seriously needed in Canggu (well anywhere in Bali really). So she opened all-day breakfast Crate Café a few months ago. Judging by the continual succession of patrons coming and going from 7am to 4pm, Maree’s instincts were obviously spot on. In fact, Canggu residents, and outsiders like me, are profoundly “crateful” for this Sydney-style culinary invasion.
For Maree, Crate is simply about people, good food and coffee in a no-frills, small space and KISS – keeping it simple, stupid! This “temple to breakfasts” along Canggu’s beach road at first glance looks like a half-finished, open-sided shack, with graffiti art wall on the exteriors and distressed concrete walls within, dotted with the odd pot plant and ceiling fans hung from bare wooden rafters. Functional dining tables and chairs come constructed from wooden pallet crates discarded at the side of road, which Maree snapped-up on impulse and recycled (hence the name, in case you were wondering). But in true surfie, seaside style, all you need is fine home-cooking, good company and continually-played funky feelgood sounds – it also helps, Crate is directly opposite Canggu’s idyllic rice fields.
bits that mirror-image those distinctive brekkies you find in Bondi cafés (but, thankfully, not the prices, around IDR30,000-40,000 per dish). Food is freshly cooked to order and made from scratch from corn fritters to falafel - by the kitchen staff out back. Among many options, Roll Over (omelette, cherry tomatoes, basil and feta), Eggxelent (fried eggs on toast, salsa verde and parmesan) and It’s a Wrap (feta, chili, tempe, salad, tofu and falafel) gives you a taste of “Crate expectations,” accompanied by hunks of crusty sourdough bread. Some, like signature Brekkie Board – eggs any way, toast, avocado, spinach, bacon or salmon – come served on a wooden board, while cereal options include NomNom Jar, a jam-jar filled with house made Bircher muesli and fresh tropical fruits.
Breakfast menu – simply scrawled up on the rear wall behind the counter – is typical healthy- wholesome organic with a few naughty
And just like all good Sydney cafes, Crate’s weapon of mass seduction is excellent coffee, perhaps explaining why, from around 7am
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onwards, there are surfers, mum’s dropping kids off to school, fitness fanatics and so on, queuing into the street for their coffee takeaways and caffeine hit. Coffee beans here are a secret recipe, three-island house blend, Arabica s-m-o-o-t-h and freshly roasted the day before for double-strength espressos, macchiatos, lattes, long blacks and flat whites, cappuccinos and mochas – all for just IDR20,000 – created by two barista-trained “bar men” with impressive coffee art skills. One of which is “Frida” with luscious long ringlets, a daily array of questionable hats and bags of personality; if you’re a regular, which most Crate patrons are, “Frida” will know your name and preferred coffee brew. Strategically located near Canggu Beach, Crate’s all-day momentum (after the coffee run) invariably swells up from around 8am a mixed-bag breakfast brigade of surfers (pre or post catching a wave), Canggu expats, families, creative and entrepreneurial types and odd
tourist and passer-by. There may be a bit of a lull after around 11.30am and then a second wave; those who may have indulged a tad too much the night before and crawling in for sustenance. Confirmed by Maree’s Balinese husband of a quarter of a century, big-hearted Maree has obviously found her calling with this venture, here every day, like a bustling mother hen with a joke and banter for the Crate devotees – and keeping those mounting food and coffee paper orders organized on the counter. Evidently community spirited, predominately supporting a strong expat Canggu neighbourhood, Maree keeps it real and considering what you get, prices are kept deliberately low, especially compared to downtown Seminyak. The giving back to the community spirit extends to monthly evening art exhibitions (last Saturday of the month) aimed, not only to showcase an emerging local artist, and helping them get a break to exhibit their
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installation, photographic works, oil on canvas or whatever, but a lowkey opportunity for local creative types to congregate, with live music and free pizza thrown in. Art works get exhibited on Crate’s walls two weeks beforehand, so patrons get a pretty obvious clue that the next art exhibition is forthcoming. Keep up to date with Crate’s goings-on, or post your fave breakfast photo on Crate’s Instagram account (@cratecafe). Indeed, in Canggu, life’s crate. CRATE CAFÉ , 64 Jalan Batu Belong, Canggu, tel: 082144876861. Daily 7am-4pm
Photography: dewandra djelantik | art direction: julhenry | fauve Models: kris, gina, cristina, zahara & helene | M ake- U p & H air: little leeyah | special thanks to : be chocolat
ma r ket kody&ko - gun flowers pot
Shivaloka - skanda Bracelet
69 Slam - mouth tropic boardshort
YOKII - t-shirt
magal
al i pasc
MOTEL
PALMa
miss m
ilne
Niluh Djelantik - maria skinny heels
– HEALTH –
TO TAKE CARE OF YOUR...
baby by VERONICA
If you have a kid, there is no doubt that a child is the extension of yourself. From the moment that this new person arrives, you feel that he/she needs all the attention of the world. Most parents feel they want to give the best of cares, so today I will devote some attention, tricks and ideas to take care of your baby more naturally since the earliest days. In this soft and delicate world that is childhood, it seems that the philosophy of nature and eco trend works even better. Large cosmetic companies didn’t want to miss this train, and there are several options in the market selling various ecological and hypo-allergenic products for children. Before the arrival A natural approach can start before the baby arrives. The fetus develops from the food you eat, the oxygen you breathe, hence it is essential to take care of your food and air quality. Organic, natural or seasonal products allow both the mother and her baby a healthier diet. It should also flee places with the presence of toxic or polluting substances. The mother should not only avoid smoking, but the places where people smoke. Skin The skin of a baby is the soften thing in the world. It is important to protect and prevent attacks, as it is easily irritated. The known “baby oil” mineral oils are generally derived directly from petroleum with added fragrances. It is recommended using products containing aloe vera, calendula oil or shea butter as a base product. The main advantage is that these creams can be applied to all skin types and are particularly suitable for baby’s skin, having also components such as olive oil, chamomile, rosehips and honey. They exclude preservatives such parabens, suspected of favouring various skin pathologies. If you live in a tropical area or you’re in summer time, pay attention to the sun, as it is one of the biggest enemies for the skin of a baby. Barrier creams are not recommended on children under 6
months, avoiding exposure is the option. For older children, it is necessary to avoid the most aggressive hours and use solar cream when they are under the sun. In places where mosquitoes are a problem, use nets or gauze covering the stroller or baby’s crib. It is better not to use repellent creams because the baby can suck it. You can find adhesive strips and citronella bracelets that also help prevent insect bites. Equally or more important than the cream that is chosen for the baby’s skin is the massage with which parents pass the child calm and pleasure: cuddling is the best way to strengthen the relationship between parents and children. Milk The health benefits of breast milk are conducive to growing experts recommend this type of natural food and to extend the maximum time possible. In addition to its beneficial effects, it avoids the environmental impact of the manufacture of infant nutrition products. If using bottles to feed the baby, should look at their materials. Some experts say that certain chemicals can be harmful to the health of children. In any case, you should use bottles made with materials such as glass, polypropylene or polyethylene. Diapers Currently, there is controversy about disposable diapers versus lifelong fabric. Many young parents now choose to use the option of traditional cloth. It is true that the softness and comfort that provides a cloth diaper is not the same as the stiffness of a disposable diaper. There is no doubt to the environment benefit of not using disposable diapers, each baby creates 2,700 kg of nonbiodegradable waste... Not to mention the waste generated to manufacture them. It takes between 200 to 500 years to decompose. In addition, disposable diapers contain polyacrylate,
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a substance that was removed from tampons in 1985 for its connection with the collapse of the toxic syndrome. Finally, the cost savings is clear. Moreover, the convenience and ease of disposable diapers compared to the daily work of cleaning clothes, also makes it difficult to take the decision of what is the best option... Clothing Besides diapers, babies wear clothes that can cause irritations or allergies. It is recommended to run away from artificial fabrics and garments and choose natural materials. But some natural fibres such as cotton, can also cause skin problems if it is made with lots of pesticides. It is recommended to seek ecological or organic cotton. Bath Several paediatricians and dermatologists are against the use of antibacterial soaps and cleaners, which can impair the infant’s immune system and create resistant bacteria. Sleep Mattresses made with organic cotton, wool and natural rubber are recommended. Better to avoid most conventional mattresses made with polyurethane foam, nylon, polyester or vinyl. Likewise, sheets, blankets and quilts made with organic natural fibres offer a better adaptation to the baby’s skin. When painting the walls and floor of the room is advisable to avoid products that contain a high amount of volatile organic elements. When cleaning the house, we can use natural remedies such as a mixture of vinegar and water to wash and disinfect floors. Despite all the care we give to our children, we must not forget that any organic product can replace our demonstration of love and understanding of our young. The time you spend with your children is the greatest care and memories that you can offer.
– horoscope –
summer HOROSCOPE Aries One of the most powerful alignments of the year takes place this month as Mars, warrior planet of the cosmos aligns with Saturn, the taskmaster of the cosmos in your financial sector today. With a clearer sense of what you’re fighting for and the power to move mountains if you have to, this is when Mars’ brawn and Saturn’s pedantic way of doing things comes together, giving you a chance to take your power back. Taurus Powerful forces come together on the relationship front that give you a chance to take your power back, investing into your relationships what you need back in return. You’ve reached a point where, knowing what you want from your relationships and what they need from you it’s now time to start walking the talk. With this comes the courage to make some bold moves, with an overriding need to keep it real and to take responsibility. Gemini While it’s been a month since a turnaround began on the work front, you have just now reached a point where you’re on an unstoppable roll. As Saturn and Mars align in your work sector today they’re not only giving you the power to move mountains if you have to, but the drives, passions, competitive and fighting spirit to not take no for an answer. It helps that you’ve had a chance over the last few weeks to get a clearer sense of what you’re fighting for. Cancer If this month’s cosmic alignment has its way it will be turning you into a warrior and champion for matters of the heart, as Mars and Saturn align to not only reveal what you’re fighting for, but to give you the power to move mountains if you have to. Ironically this comes just as you’ve not only got a nose for money but you’re waking up to your full potential on the income and work fronts. Finding a balance between work and play has just become a lot more important. Leo As the Moon’s first and only visit to your
sign while Venus, planet of love, desire and attraction is here wraps up and especially as it comes just days after your birthday month ran its course, there is a need to listen to what your heart and your instincts are telling you. On a day where home and family matters are likely to demand your attention, make sure you’re also listening to your own needs and priorities. Virgo At the same time that Mars and Saturn align in your communication sector they both form an auspicious alignment with Chiron, planet of healing, in retrograde motion in your relationship sector. This allows you to channel some of the most powerful forces you’ll ever get when it comes to a communication breakthrough into your relationships, in a way that not only allows you to give unsaid words a voice, but is healing and cathartic. Libra This month’s cosmic conditions is set to allay any fears that Venus’ departure from your career sector earlier in the month would see you lose your professional edge, as a powerful alignment of income forces reach out to forces on the work front, creating some auspicious conditions on both fronts. You’re starting to appreciate what you’re fighting for but also what you’ve already invested, at a time when the focus is now on the money and what’s in it for you. Scorpio This should be a fairly quiet time of year for you, both personally and professionally, yet you have reached some of the most empowered days of the year on both fronts. For the first time since 1984 Mars, warrior planet of the cosmos and Saturn, hard taskmaster of the cosmos, align in your sign today. With a clearer sense of what you’re fighting for and the power to move mountains if you have to, this is a month for taking your power back. This also just happens to be an auspicious day for work and career matters. Sagittarius Chances are that where you see a lack of motivation is in fact one of your most
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important periods of self discovery and introspection in decades. Mars and Saturn, both on their way back to your sign and both reflecting on the journey they’ve taken you on, align for the first time in a reflective part of your chart for 30 years and this is going to draw a lot of your focus inwards. Yet this comes on a day where there is a sense of fun and adventure in the air, reminding you of what you’ve been missing out on. Capricorn Having aligned with both Venus and Jupiter, the planets of money and luck over the last few days, the Moon’s final hours in your financial sector are all about trusting your financial instincts and the emotional, intuitive and imaginative responses triggered over the last few days, with blind faith if need be. Don’t be tempted to tone this down to what you think is realistic, for it’s been over a decade since you’ve had luck and the money gods on your side as you do now. Aquarius While you’ve had Saturn in your career sector since October 2012 and Mars visits once every 2 years, as they align here this month for the first time since 1984, this really does give you the power to move mountains if you have to. This is when Mars’ professional passions and fighting spirit and Saturn’s strength and endurance come together, just as you’re redefining your professional priorities. Make sure this doesn’t dominate what is also an important day for relationship matters. Pisces An important month for work, income and relationship matters is being dominated and coloured by a powerful alignment between Mars and Saturn in an adventurous part of your chart, making it impossible not to focus on the big picture. As well as bringing a passion for adventure and a hunger for life’s richer experiences together with the power to move mountains if you have to, this allows you to avoid getting bogged down in the details and in all aspects of your life appreciate that it’s all about the journey.
– SPIRITUALITY –
karma KONVERSATIONS You Are What You Edit by SWATHIMAA As any good writer knows, it’s not the editor’s scalpel that rules the word and the page; it’s the advertiser-king swinging his d----, I mean, sitting atop his Branded throne translating ad dollars into ad space, paying thread-thin and lipbalm’d, teeteringon-the-edge-of-a-Manolo-abyss model-actor-resses to writhe to the flash of kaleidoscope lights. POUT! PREEN! POP!! PRINT! There they are, frozen in time, pretending that without them nobody on God’s green Earth would find his or her one true discount product. Superlative writer’s copy be damned — hidden as it is amongst the packed-house pages of posed and perfect pecs, po-po’s, and perky tata’s, which are the true fodder fueling the kingdom of Con-mercialism. Still, the pay is good…for the babettes, not the writers. Yet (sigh), Life is like that, isn’t it…as much an unduly edited fantasy as it is down-to-earth and real. In truth, Life mirrors art: clouds edit your tan; sand edits your mani-pedi; your boyfriend/ husband/lover edits your opinions and your conversations; your mom and her friends edit your wardrobe; your dentist edits your over-bite, no matter how cute you thought it might have been; designers edit your tastes; stylists edit your Look; politicians edit your choices; other people’s desires edit your actions; and, other people’s actions edit still other people’s rights to life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness, credit card indebted though they may be. We are what we edit. And, we ought to consider the whole retched thing before it gets any more out of hand. I’ll go first. In all candor, it’s probably already too late. We’ve sailed far beyond the reef, well into the deep water,
up over our heads and out of our frackin’ minds with all of the snipping, cutting, shuffling, binding, bonding and blonde-ing we’ve done in lieu of making our way back to the shores of sanity. Our dinghies have been swamped. With all of the desires we want fulfilled, it’s ironic how often and freely we edit the people and places we frequent, not to mention editing ourselves all along the way. Much to everyone’s just-as-ironic chagrin, we’re all impervious to the chains it places around our necks. Go figure. Most of the time, most of us don’t get the real story, the unadulterated truth… or seem to want it. Why? We coerce ourselves into editing our stories long before we write them. We start with the infantile edits, the hidden, confused, condemned, and callous, claustrophobic and pre-conditioned preclusions, which take place in our heads first, long before we ever open our mouths and speak a single intelligible word. More often than not, only the edits make it onto the pages of our lives and, in the process, our story is transformed from the potential epic it might have eventually become into a miniseries, an afternoon special, a 20-minute infomercial or a 30-second spot at three in the morning about “bad hair”. And, that’s how everybody sees us. To what end do we expect all this lackof-truth to bring us? We do it because we think that’s what it takes to get people to like us and for us to get what we want. We do it because we want to escape from being ourselves. After all, why should anyone else like you when you don’t like yourself? You may think I’m belligerently overstating the downside. Fine. Let’s look at the upside. (Insert contemplative, pregnant pause HERE) I agree with you, completely…there
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isn’t any. If there were, everyone’s life would be grand, a heaven, sweet to its chocolaty core, a precious thing to be lived and to behold. Instead, Life as we know is more like stacked bricks of peat or a bucket of coal: with a full box of matches and good deal of poking and prodding, we can coax some warmth out of it eventually, piece by piece. And, that’s what we do. We ignite our lives with moments of desire and inspiration then poke or prod the people and circumstances we’re faced with into sharing a bit of sweetness and joy. And, if any part of us remains chilled to the bone, we strike another inspired match of desire and hope for a proper spark. Yet, the fact is, so much of our lives are so smothered in edits that any true flame ignited is usually snuffed out sooner than later. So, we do what any righteously practical soul would do…we settle and substitute: we take in the beauty and grandeur of nature from atop a hotel balcony while waiting, longingly, for room service to arrive in AC comfort; we buy the perfect pumps, which sculpt the arches of our feet and miraculously elongate our finely tanned legs, so the perfect mate will come at the perfect moment, based on a single perfect glance; and, we sit across a table from some tall, dark someone who is willing to spend a few thousand rupiahs to see what latenight possibilities may unfold and think to ourselves about the pros and cons of this guy with the unnerving smirk being either our Last Call Last Hope or a perfectly fine prospect for Life Mate; and/or we sit with our girlfriends discussing how nobody deserves us, except each other, secretly wishing, hoping, praying it isn’t true. We are what we edit, dear hearts. So, stop selling your Self short for discounted ad space. In the end, the payback out isn’t worth it. Truly live your life…unedited…and make it epic!
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– fashion –
indonesian fashion scene now part 2
BY katya BYIAN BIYAN is one of the more favored designers of the Jakarta models – girls love to walk his shows and wear pieces from his collections. His style is feminine romanticism interlaced with cultural heritage, which revlects in intricate embroidery and generous beading. He was born in Surabaya, but has spent almost 15 years living in Europe – first studying in Germany (at Muller & Sohn Privatmodeschule in Dusseldorf) and England (The London College of Fashion) and then working for at Erico Covery in Italy. He returned back to Indonesia, and started producing his first own closing line BIYAN in a small atelier in Surabaya, and his second line STUDIO 133 BIYAN was created only a year after that. In 1999 in collaboration with his business partner he presented a yound and urban lable (X).S.M.L, whis is sometimes reffered to as “indonesian topshop with a flare of japanese urban style”. The designer’s latest creation is BYIAN Bride line. OKA DIPUTRA One of the most original ofIndonesian designers, Oka was born in Surabaya, studied interior
design in Bandung and then moved to Bali, where he has been living ever since. His first steps in design were experienced way back in childhood. Oka is the youngest child of the family and due to this had always worn secondhands or handme-downs, which he inherited from his older siblings. To make those items look fresh, Oka would modify them, so that they’d look different and were more to his liking. Later in life, after moving to Bali, he decided to try his luck at professional design. Unlike other Indonesian designers, Oka is completely self – taught. He learned pattern making on various pieces of clothes he would buy and learned how to cut the fabrics on a dummy. Oka invisioned his clothes to suit wide range of figures, so wraps and knots instead of zippers, buttons and fitted structures became the definition of his signature style. Oka adores batik and impliments it in his collections in the forms of lining, but makes the pieces with batik lining reversable, in case the client would like to wear the batik on the outside. His favorite designer - Kenzo, inspired theat idea of bright colored lining. Quite a few celebrities have worn Okas designs, but what pleased him the most, is when Kenzo wore his pieces. He draws his inspiration from different Asian cultures, Indonesian flowers and the underwater worldscuba – diving is his great passion.
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ALI CHARISMA Yet another born and bred Bali designer, another unique indovidual this island has a reason and right to be proud of. Ali never intended to become a fashion designer in his early ears, though his first business – batik trading – was somewhat of a fashion nature. He originally began a business of exporting clothing, which eventually inspired him to try the particular career path he is following to this day. Eventually Ali decided to study the craft of tailoring and design; and his trading experience further helped him to achieve his balance for creativity and business. His success escalated from there, he since took part in numerous fashion shows throughout Asia and beyond, which in its turn expanded his circle of clientel to Australia, Europe and the US. HIs fashion shows were without failiure and was usually on the receiving end to raving reviews. His main muse is the urban woman, strong charactered but yet etxremly feminine. He would combine sheer lace dresses with military boots, silk fabrics with metallic leather and bold accessories with coiffure hairstyles. His main design motto is comfort and Ali is influenced by the quintissential free spirited look.
Iwan Tirta
Oka Diputra
Ali Charisma
Biyan
IWAN TIRTA It would be impossible to pay the proper respect to this Indonesian legend in an article, in where the writer would have enough time to credit his achievments with coniction. Iwan Tirta was the designer who revived the culture of batik and introduced it to the rerst of the world. He was born in 1935 in Blora, Indonesia. Nothing was ever quite the same after that. Tirta received a law degree in the University of Indonesia and became a professor of International Law soon after. He continued his education in the London School of Economics, the School of Oriental and African studies and finally, Yale. Iwan Tirta won a research grant from The John D Rockerfeller III Fund and started a research project of the sacred dances of Central Java Royal Courts. His interest and love
for batik stemmed from there. Iwan spent years learning the cultural, historical and sociological acpects of batik. By 1966 he completed a book titled “Batik Pattern and Motifs”, which contained all the knowledge he had accumulated during his continued reasearch throughout the years. Iwan gave batik a new lease on life. He reconstructed some of the classic royal patterns, introducing a new morden look of traditional fabrics and presenting it to the rest of the world. His designs were featured in such prestige magazines such as Vogue, Architecture’s Digest, National Geographics and New York Times, just to name a few. A variety of his designs were appreciated and worn by international politicians, celebrities and royalty, amongst of whom were Nelson Mandella, Roger Moore,
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Queen Elizabeth II and Queen Sophie of Spain just to name a few. His circle of devoted followers paid tribute to the unique range of Batik which in turn gave a respectful view toward traditional Indonesian design. In the later years of his life, Iwan created lines of ceramics and silveware, adorned with various batik designs. He opened numerous galleries and founded PT Iwan Tirta Private Collection, which keeps his works and inspirations alive today, after his recent untimely departure in 2010. Iwan Tirta was one of the greatest of the Indonesian designers, if not the greatest and most memorable of them all. The importance of his work for Indonesian cultural heritage and the preservance of tradiotional crafts and arts cannot be understated.
– style –
heart kingdom ABSOLUTE TROPICAL BY AstriD
Summer is just around the corner. Finally! I’m also dreaming of somewhere tropical, surrounded by palm trees, coconut in hand. But, until I can make a little getaway, I’ll be sporting a plethora of palm tree prints. Say goodbye to ditsy designs: this summer our blooms come straight from a lush tropical garden – think bold, from pineapple to palm trees, create your own fashion paradise using this season’s hottest prints. Inject some tropical vibes into your summer with or without getting on a plane! The fashion world introduces big botanical motifs into your wardrobe for a statement warm-weather look that will take you from day to night, poolside to bar side. Totally sizzling this season and are a forefront trend on the high street. A few seasons back, it showed us that it was okay to have fun with the silliest prints ever. Remember the vegetables and fruits we used to wear on our clothes? So, branching out to more exotic surroundings and being inspired by the summer holidays was only a matter of time. What the heck took us so long, in the first place? Perhaps it has to do with the (non) style of Hawaiian shirts. Dad fashion alert all over again. Ugh-oh! Now, women want to look and feel über feminine and sexy all over again, like Lolitas on holiday in Saint Tropez or out on a casual Sunday having fun in the sun looking colorful and pretty, in the most effortless and feminine way possible. This is what the tropical prints are all about.
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How to wear them? Well, you have 3 options:
1. Wear the same tropical print head-to-toe. The sky is the limit, a dress, trouser and blazer suit, tops and shorts or skirts.
2. Wear one tropical print piece and pair it with a basic one if the number one is too much for you, yet you wanna give this wild trend a try. White or black mixed with colored tropical ones look best.
3. Mix tropical prints with any other prints. If you’re feeling bold and daring mix it up with fruits, vegetables, floral or animal print. It’s too much. It’s chaotic, yet it oozes sophistication.
You’ll look smokin’ hot in summer in this tropical trend when it’s toasty outside. …Right, time to book a ticket to the Bahamas.
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love, Astrid
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