JANUARY 2017 ISSUE 140
GLAMOURAMA Shimmer and seduction. The perfect combination for the next season
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VO+ January Contributors
CONTENTS Issue 140 · January 2017 · Spring / Summer Issue
Kathryn Bishop
Caroline Broadhead
Olivier Dupon
Rachael Taylor
Donatella Zappieri
p. 191
KATHRYN BISH0P
p. 178
p. 260 © Nick Knight. Courtesy of Daelim Museum, Seoul
Afterword
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Hotspot Museo del Gioiello Profile Giovanni Ferraris Profile Garavelli Handicraft Carving A Niche Profile Vendorafa Lombardi Journey Into Farah Khan
Retail
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The Globetrotter Home Sweet Home
p. 272
p. 200
Logos
198 200 204 214
ToDo List Customer Experience Case History Stella & Dot Survey Sell&Buy: How To The Globetrotter Openings Worldwide
Trade
225 228 230
Finance Chopard and Gemfields Tech-Gold D’Orica Tech-Gold Masterix
243 VICENZAORO Events Calendar
Word of Mouth
257 258 260 262 268 272
Books Contemporary Heirlooms Save the Date Seasonal Appointments Agenda Art & Exhibitions Agenda Jewellery Exhibitions Agenda People To Watch Last Word Emotional High Jewellery
She has written about jewellery and watches for several publications and organisations. She is an executive of the Women's Jewellery Association UK, and the youngest member of the Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design Council. In 2016 she was named in Retail Jeweller’s 30 Under 30, and praised for her “unrivalled knowledge of the jewellery industry". Ha scritto per molte riviste e organizzazioni del settore. Dirige la Women's Jewellery Association per la Gran Bretagna ed è il membro più giovane del Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design Council. Nel 2016 è stata nominata Retail Jeweller’s 30 come uno dei talenti più interessanti under 30, per la sua impareggiabile conoscenza del mondo del gioiello.
CAROLINE BR0ADHEAD Caroline Broadhead is course leader, BA Jewellery at Central Saint Martins. Originally a jewellery designer, she now works with textiles, light and space and
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regularly collaborates with choreographers to create dance performances. Her work has been exhibited in many public collections internationally. Insegnante del BA Jewellery alla Central Saint Martins. Designer di gioielli con una lunga esperienza nel mondo dell'arte, oggi lavora con i tessuti, la luce e lo spazio, collaborando spesso con coreografi nella creazione di performance di danza. Le sue opere sono esposte in molte mostre internazionali.
OLIVIER DUPON He began his career at Christian Dior, and then worked as a buyer and project manager. Now based in London, he scouts international markets in search of exciting jewellery makers and he specifically reports about haute joaillerie. He wrote several books and is a regular contributor for vari-
ous jewellery publications. Ha iniziato la sua carriera da Christian Dior, ha poi lavorato come buyer e project manager per molti grandi magazzini. Vive a Londra, dove conduce la sua ricerca di nuovi designer del gioiello e di alta gioielleria. Ha scritto diversi libri e collabora con varie testate internazionali.
RACHAEL TAYLOR A freelance journalist based in London who spends her days writing about the rarefied worlds of jewellery and watches for publications around the globe, Rachael is the founding editor of the UK business magazines Professional Jeweller and WatchPro. Giornalista freelance con base a Londra, Rachael scrive articoli per diversi giornali internazionali, focalizzandosi sul lato più sublime del mondo del gioiello e degli orologi.
Ha fondato due riviste del settore: Professional Jeweller e WatchPro.
DONATELLA ZAPPIERI A language graduate from Geneva University and with twenty years’ experience in the jewellery sector, Donatella currently helps jewellery companies start up new jewellery lines and reposition themselves through a fresh approach. She also teaches Design Management at various universities in both Milan and Geneva. Con una laurea in lingue all'Università di Ginevra e molte esperienze lavorative presso aziende di gioielleria, oggi, Donatella è una consulente che collabora con marchi all'inizio del loro percorso o che desiderano riposizionarsi con un approccio innovativo. Insegna, inoltre, Design Management nelle Università di Milano e Ginevra.
Chiara-Spennato Anselmo-Bianconi
Styling
GLAMOU R A M A
DE GRISOGONO 18K white gold and white diamonds ‘Melody Of Colours’ rings set with amethyst, emeralds, olivine and pink sapphires (top) and aquamarine, turquoise and amethyst. ‘High Jewellery’ earrings set with teardrop cut turquoise, sapphires and diamonds. Anelli ‘Melody Of Colours’ in oro bianco e diamanti con ametiste, smeraldi, gemme di olivina e zaffiri rosa (sopra) e gemme acquamarina, turchesi e ametiste (sotto). Orecchini 'High Jewellery' con turchesi taglio a goccia, zaffiri e diamanti.
Photography
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JJEWELS ‘Audrey’ ring and earrings in white gold, diamonds and blue sapphires. Anello e orecchini ‘Audrey’ in oro bianco con diamanti e zaffiri blu. Dress Luisa Beccaria. Facing page: DAMIANI ‘Vanità’ brooch with white and black diamonds and rubies. Spilla ‘Vanità’ con diamanti bianchi, black e rubini. Hair Armando Cherillo at Atomo using K+A; make-up Miriam Langelotti at Green Apple using Ellis Faas; manicure Rosimar Viana at Green Apple; model Nathalie at Fashion. Swim caps kindly supplied by Ideal Gomma Sport. Flowers kindly supplied by Frida’s Milano.
Summer Earrings ATELIER Trends APERTURE
Eccentric, daring, statement-making. These are the earrings for the next summer season, and they come in lots of bold and playful versions.
HOOPS, I DID IT AGAIN —
Eccentrici, stravaganti, statement. Sono gli orecchini della prossima stagione estiva, declinati con audacia e ironia.
From Left / Da sinistra
ALTUZARRA MOSCHINO HOUSE OF HOLLAND MISSONI
GOING DOWN —
MORE THE MERRIER —
SAINT LAURENT PARIS OFF WHITE WANDA NYLON JW ANDERSON
STELLA JEAN KENZO
From Left / Da sinistra
From Left / Da sinistra
BAROQUE REVIVAL — From Left / Da sinistra
GUCCI DOLCE & GABBANA CHANEL ANTONIO MARRAS ALEXANDER McQUEEN RODARTE
KEEP IT RAW —
From Left / Da sinistra STELLA McCARTNEY MAISON MARGIELA DEL POZO CHRISTOPHER KANE
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Can You Hear Me? Outrageously long, opulent, baroque and loaded with decorative details, arty-chic style and futuristic. How should they be worn? Summer dictates that they should be mismatched, one dangly and one short, one mini and one maxi, to create a special kind of balance in which diversity reigns supreme and steals the crown from the ‘perfect pair’.
Esagerati nelle lunghezze, opulenti, barocchi e carichi di dettagli ornamentali, stilizzati dal look arty-chic o dall’appeal futuristico. Come indossarli? L’estate li chiede ‘scoppiati’, uno lungo e uno corto, uno mini l’altro maxi, in un’armonia in cui la diversità regna sovrana, rubando la scena alla ‘coppia perfetta’.
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Museo del Gioiello
AFTERWORD Hotspot
Museo del Gioiello THE ART OF RENEWAL
hat is a jewel in today’s world? An exW pression of wealth or creativity? A status symbol or an emblem of beauty? Is it an investment or an accessory? Craftsmanship, fashion, art or design? «There is no jewel, universal and absolute – explains Alba Cappellieri, Curator and Director of the museum complex, as well as Professor of Jewellery Design at the Polytechnic University of Milan and principal researcher of the sector in Italy - but different conceptions linked to a certain time, culture, tastetaste. In short, the history of mankind». And in order to restore the semantic complexity of the jewel, the museum space within the Palladian Basilica was conceived as a place to visit on a regular basis.
Located in the heart of the Palladian Basilica in Vicenza, the Museo del Gioiello inaugurated its 2017-2018 biennial event on December 16 with a completely renewed exhibition, curated by nine new international curators. Text by Arianna Pinton
Facing page: Ettore Sottsass, brooch, unique piece for Milan XI Triennale, 1957. This page, Crown of Our Lady of Monte Berico, Vicenza, 1900. Nella pagina accanto, Ettore Sottsass, spilla in oro, 1957, pezzo unico per la XI Triennale. Collezione privata, New York. In questa pagina, Corona della Madonna di Monte Berico, Vicenza, 1900.
«The Museo del Gioiello of Vicenza is the only one in the world to present the jewel in its principal contexts: nine micro worlds defined by witchcraft, symbolism, function, beauty, art, fashion, design, icons and by new scenarios. This choice, which responds to the most recent international museological research, introduces visitors to the knowledge of deeply heterogeneous value and content». Thus the permanent exhibition has been renewed for the next two years thanks to an unprecedented selection of over 400 preselected jewels by
eight new curators, working alongside Cappellieri: Glenn Adamson Director MAD - NY (Symbolism); Cristina Del Mare, Anthropologist (Witchcraft); Alessandra Possamai, Historian (Function); Nicolas Bos, CEO Van Cleef & Arpels (Beauty); Helen W Drutt English, critic and collector (Art); Stefano Piaggi, Archive Director Anna Piaggi (Fashion); Alba Cappellieri and Marco Romanelli, Architect (Design); Paola Venturelli, Historian (icons); Odoardo Fioravanti, Designer (Future). «This pluralism – contin-
ALBA CAPPELLIERI: «The curatorship of each room has been entrusted to international experts who have interpreted the selection of works according to radically diverse perspectives, methodologies and criteria, demonstrating the cultural vitality of the jewel». 178
ues Professor Cappellieri - delivers superb narrative quality and highlights the timeless and boundless magic of the jewel in this selection by leading international experts, while the twoyear rotation of the works makes it a place to visit with continuity by a local audience too». A project strongly supported by Italian Exhibition Group in partnership with the City of Vicenza and set up by archistar Patricia Urquiola, the museum is a focal point both in terms of its appreciation of the goldsmith vocation and the Vicenza jewellery district, and for what it has to offer to Italian and international visitors. With remarkable and far-sighted insight, it provides an original and diverse aesthetic and educational experience of the jewel, an object as old as time itself and deeply rooted in human culture. Italian Exhibition Group has chosen to invest a percentage of profits in the renovation of a Unesco asset, belonging therefore to all humanity, making it accessible and the perfect venue for a 'jewel in the crown'.
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AFTERWORD Profile
How to Be Different
Essential, traditional and colourful diamonds are the keywords for Giovanni Ferraris’ new jewellery collection. Interview by Esther B.J. Ligthart
iovanni Ferraris’ biggest challenge G was to change his jewellery company into a brand with a strong identity, known for its design and good taste.
tivi. Prima di tutto i designer e i marchi devono esprimere se stessi in modo continuativo attraverso dei gioielli ben fatti. La perfezione è resa possibile grazie alle nuove tecniche che, solo un decennio fa, erano inimmaginabili. Poi è cambiato il rapporto tra il cliente e il gioiello poiché la gente preferisce spendere denaro in attività ricreative e tecnologia.
What are the changes you saw within the industry? In the last 30 years, I’ve seen many changes, but perhaps these two are the most significant. First of all designers and brands need to express themselves constantly with wellmade jewellery. This perfection is also possible thanks to new techniques, which only a decade ago, would have been unimaginable. The other thing is that the relationship between the client and jewellery has changed as people prefer to spend money on leisure activities and technology. What makes Giovanni Ferraris special? Our strength is the small size of our company which produces everything in-house, from design to prototype, production, the choice of gemstones, the finishing touch. Everything is 100% made in Italy. Tell us a little more about your jewellery work. Just like making a movie, creating jewellery requires a lot of research and practice. Behind the scenes, I am basing my work on the classical concepts of the goldsmith trade; creating and modelling precious objects of gold and diamonds, combined with unusual, fascinating natural stones. What inspires you? Creating every day new
Cosa rende speciale Giovanni Ferraris? La nostra forza risiede nella piccola dimensione della nostra azienda, che ci consente di produrre tutto internamente: prototipo, produzione, selezione delle pietre fino al tocco finale. Tutto al 100% Made in Italy. Una definizione dei suoi gioielli? Unici, seducenti e indescrivibili. Proprio come quando si gira un film, anche creare gioielli richiede studio e molta pratica. Lavoro tanto dietro le quinte. Il mio lavoro parte da un'idea classica del gioiello. Creo e modello oggetti in oro e diamanti unendoli a pietre naturali dal fascino insolito. things, using and experimenting with new techniques, transforming what nature has created over thousands of years into emotions. Those who work with passion every single day are my heroes. What is your view on jewellery? Jewellery has to be special for the memory that it contains. And this is what I create: small emotions that bring pleasure to those who are able to capture them •
L’arte di essere diversi. Essenzialità, tradizione e diamanti colorati sono le parole chiave della nuova collezione di gioielli di Giovanni Ferraris. La più grande sfida affrontata quella di creare un marchio dalla forte identità, conosciuto soprattutto per gusto e design.
Da dove prende ispirazione e chi sono i suoi eroi? Creare ogni giorno, sperimentare nuove tecniche, trasformare in emozioni ciò che la natura ha creato in millenni. I miei eroi sono coloro che lavorano con passione ogni giorno che passa.
A quali cambiamenti di mercato ha assistito negli anni? Negli ultimi trent’anni ho visto molti cambiamenti, ma forse due sono stati significa-
Cosa pensa dei gioielli? Un gioiello deve essere speciale per il ricordo che evoca. Ed è ciò che io creo: piccole emozioni che danno gioia a chi è in grado di catturarle.
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AFTERWORD Handicraft
AFTERWORD Profile
97 Years of Excellence Garavelli is for the modern woman who chooses her own jewellery and knows exactly what she likes. Interview by Esther B.J. Ligthart
Carving a Niche
Established for thousands of years, lapidary — or gem cutting — is undergoing a revival as jewellery lovers seek out gemstones that are both striking and unique in their faceting. Text by Kathryn Bishop
ou could say it was the influence of Y bespoke jewellery. The opportunity to personalize a design by choosing a gemstone’s colour, carat and cut has encouraged clients to seek out daring and unique stones that set their pieces apart — stones that showcase intricate lapidary.
jewellery company from Valenza, A founded 97 years ago, today Garavelli is run by Elisabetta Molina and her brother Stefano. «Our collections are never predictable», says Elisabetta, «but we always make sure they can be passed on from mother to daughter».
What would your dream for the company be, if money and time weren’t an obstacle? No limits? I would immediately start to think about a great event for our upcoming 100-years - anniversary celebrations! And a special 100 years-anniversary collection!
Can you tell us a bit about your company? It was founded by our great grandparents. We work together to create our jewellery in different price ranges. Each collection contains affordable pieces and important ones.
What does jewellery mean? Every object is an expression of the person who created it. It contains all the emotions, the experiences, the struggles, the joys and the ability to solve technical problems.
What is the strength of the Molina family? As for the brand, I would say: quality, experience and elegance. My family has a tendency to look back on recent family history and really feel what the core values in life are.
What is your view of the jewellery market? I still think that there will be always a desire for a valuable object. And therefore, I don’t worry at all about the future of jewellery. Is there something about
your brand you are very proud of ? We own three vases that we created in the late sixties, entirely in gold and enamel. They could have been created for the Japanese market in those years.
Quale sarebbe il vostro sogno se denaro e tempo non fossero degli ostacoli? Penserei subito a un evento per festeggiare il prossimo centenario e naturalmente una collezione speciale.
How do you get inspired in both your work and life? From the emotions we feel. From the smallest and simplest to the more sophisticated ones, for better or for worse •
Una definizione di gioiello. Ogni oggetto è espressione di chi lo ha creato. Contiene tutte le emozioni, l’esperienza, la gioia e la capacità di risolvere le problematiche tecniche.
97 anni di eccellenza. Nata nel 1920 a Valenza, Garavelli è guidata da Elisabetta Molina e suo fratello Stefano. «Le nostre collezioni non sono mai prevedibili», dice Elisabetta. «Ci piace pensare che siano sempre tramandate di madre in figlia».
La sua visione del mercato oggi? Credo che ci sarà sempre il desiderio di possedere un gioiello di valore. E pertanto non mi preoccupo minimamente del futuro del settore dei gioielli.
Ci racconta la sua azienda? È stata fondata dai nostri bisnonni e ancora oggi lavoriamo in famiglia per creare gioielli couture e prêt-à-porter. Qual è il punto di forza? Alta qualità, una lunga esperienza ed eleganza.
«There seems to be an uptick in interest, probably partly because of people's desire to have something unique in a world that is increasingly filled with mass produced products», says the lapidary John Dyer, who this year scooped five of the American Gem Trade Association’s Spectrum Awards for his faceted and carved gemstones. Dyer says the inspiration for each stone starts with the rough, picking out any small nuances or details that could define its
C’è qualcosa di cui va orgogliosa? Tre vasi creati alla fine degli anni '60, in oro e smalto, creati per il mercato giapponese. Dove trova l'ispirazione? Dalle emozioni più piccole e semplici alle più complesse, nel bene o nel male.
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This page, 'Starduster #2' and 'Nebula' rings. From Sanni Falkenberg Jewellery Rocks ‘The Milky Way’ collection In questa pagina, anelli 'Starduster #2' e 'Nebula' dalla collezione ‘The Milky Way’ di Sanni Falkenberg Jewellery Rocks
shape. «I tailor each cut to the specific piece of rough, he explains. Attempting to make the most beautiful and best gem out of each rough helps lead to some interesting innovations. Sometimes I have specific pieces of rough for years, just waiting until I have the right idea or right technique to cut it in the way I think is best».
The self-taught cutter JeanNoel Soni regularly travels the world in search of unusual gems. Soni feels the growth in interest in creative gem faceting sits in line with the wider renaissance in crafts and products that have been hand-hewn, whether from wood, fabric or precious stones. «There’s an awareness of ʻOh, I can do thatʼ», he says of skills such as lapidary. Soni describes himself as ʻold schoolʼ in his technique, using traditional lapidary methods while working to maintain as much of a stone’s beauty as possible. «You see it with experienced Indian cutters who facet a stone and yes, it might be a little wonky, but they are saving the integrity of the crystal. To get a round brilliant you might need to take 80% of the crystal away, so are you more mindful if it’s a rare sapphire and you have butchered half of the stone away? A stone that took months to mine out of the ground? It’s an interesting challenge», he states.
British jeweller David Fowkes also carefully plans how his gemstones are carved, sourcing and cutting gems through close work with a family of German lapidaries. «I suppose I’m a bit of a rebel, as I don’t want to design something and then use a boring oval cabochon stone, Fowkes states. I want the gem to be the starting point. It could be Afghan tourmaline with long strides of crystals or a big lump of aquamarine, I put a lot of trust in my cutters knowledge of the materials, and I will often suggest ways of cutting a piece. But ultimately it’s about talking to the cutter, with his understanding of gemstones, how the light might hit or affect it, and my desire to do something different with the shape». The stone carver Sanni Falkenberg has literally carved a niche by creating sculptural agate and drusy jewellery, including knuckledusters and pendants carved directly out of stone. Falkenberg revels the
collection 'Eclissi', a set of disc elements in textured gold, outlined by an endless constellation of diamonds •
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and often subjected to intriguing glazes, wins a leading role by borrowing nature’s most intoxicating expressions. The collection 'Floreale', with an alternation between solid and void, is distinguished by its aesthetic delicacy and enriches the virtuous bucolic world which Vendorafa has always interpreted from flowers in diamonds, vivacious fancy sapphires, to a plateau of foliage pins in coloured enamels. A naturalistic world echoed, with as much character, by a universe of jewels in which architectural and geometric cues converge. One example is the
L'Arte di essere Italiani. Dal 1951 Vendorafa Lombardi realizza un gioiello di lusso, in un connubio di modernità e tradizione, attraverso le mani dell’artigiano. This page, ‘Flora’ rings in 18kt hammered gold with diamonds and fancy sapphires and a sketch for the same collection. In questa pagina, anelli ‘Flora’ in oro martellato 18kt con diamanti e zaffiri fancy e uno schizzo dalla medesima collezione
L’identità di un gioiello Vendorafa, il suo carattere, la sua unicità, nascono e si costruiscono con la forza dell’espressività, in una combinazione armonica tra qualità, design, lavorazione e stile. Grazie a
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he identity of a Vendorafa jewel, T its character, its uniqueness, is born and built with the force of expression, in a harmonious combination of quality, design, workmanship and style. Thanks to a process which over the years has successfully modernized, maintaining as its cornerstone the expertise of Valencia craftsmanship, collections by Vendorafa Lombardi continue to reflect the spirit of elegance and exclusivity translated into a hyper contemporary design. A precious triumph in which the gold surface, textured, satin
Material Good, New York
AFTERWORD Profile
The Art of Being Italian
Retail
Since 1951 Vendorafa Lombardi has created luxury jewellery, in a blend of modernity and tradition, by the hands of craftsmen.
Home Sweet Home Jewellery stores are challenging traditions with homely surrounds that encourage shoppers to linger and gallery spaces that present jewellery like artworks. Text by Kathryn Bishop
Imagine yourself in a New York apartment; dark stained wood floors and leather ottomans are contrasted by cosy sofas, mohair throws and warm lighting. You curl yourself into an armchair, sip at
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your coffee and take a closer look at what lies before you — a tray of dazzling Fred Leighton vintage jewellery. While it sounds like a dream way to shop, in
fact it’s already a reality. At New York’s Material Good, the concept of “Retail as Residential” challenges the traditional expectations of buying jewellery and watches. Home to a coterie of
brands such as Audemars Piguet, Hoorsenbuhs and Sutra Jewels, it has transformed shopping from a mere transaction into an unforgettable experience. Material Good was founded 18 months
RETAIL Case History RETAIL To-Do List
Customer Experience A TRUE STORY
Tips from the 'ethnographers of retail' at Milano Retail Tour.
Complete vision A jeweller’s development of customer experience should address certain key points: visuals and display, storytelling, interior design, service, experience. Only by placing emphasis on these aspects can one guarantee satisfactory results. A credible story Millennials use social platforms such as Instagram and Snapchat, perfect places for telling a story which has to be real, credible and engaging. Millennials don’t watch classic advertising, they like well-told stories, stories of which they become the first ambassadors.
Tradition and personalisation The secret to a good in-store experience by Millennials can be found in the extreme personalisation of products and the aesthetic value of well-presented heritage because, not having experienced it first-hand it is something new for them. The key word: involvement The concept of heritage is invaluable for customer experience, but only if it is used correctly and ʻbrought to lifeʼ, so as to immerse consumers in a highly memorable experience •
Customer experience: una storia vera. I consigli degli “etnografi del retail” di Milano Retail Tour. Visione a 360 gradi Lo sviluppo della customer experience di una gioielleria passa da alcuni punti cruciali: visual e display, storytelling, interior design, servizio, experience. Soltanto curando tutti questi aspetti si può garantire un risultato apprezzabile. Una storia credibile I Millennials si ingaggiano su piattaforme social come Instagram e Snapchat, perfette per raccontare una storia che dev’essere vera, credibile e coinvolgente. I Millennials non guardano pubblicità classiche, ma amano le storie ben raccontate delle quali diventano i primi ambasciatori.
Tradizione e personalizzazione Il segreto di una buona experience in store dei Millennials risiede nella personalizzazione estrema del prodotto e nel valore estetico di un Heritage ben raccontato perché, non avendolo vissuto in prima persona, rappresenta per loro una novità. Parola d’ordine: coinvolgimento Il concetto di Heritage è inestimabile per la customer experience, ma solo se opportunamente utilizzato e ʻvivificatoʼ, perché consente di avvolgere il consumatore in una esperienza ad alto tasso di memorabilità.
Milano Retail Tour (www.milanoretailtour. com) is a format which helps companies redesign Customer Experience in light of transitions involving consumers and the world of retail. Milano Retail Tour (www. milanoretailtour.com) è un format che aiuta a ridisegnare la Customer Experience delle aziende alla luce delle trasformazioni che coinvolgono i consumatori e il mondo della vendita.
Just Ring the Bell An affordable, fashionable jewellery brand, reinventing an old sales model with modern tech. Interview by Rachael Taylor
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RETAIL Survey
Sell&Buy: How to
AHEAD of Time Rumour has it that things will change in jewellery retail land. According to the Harvard Business Review, in the future we will simply never stop shopping. But that’s not the retail industry's only challenge. What does this all mean for jewellery retailers? And is change inevitable? Text by Esther B.J. Ligthart Illustrations by Davide Parere
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RETAIL The Globetrotter
Openings worldwide
Colette Steckel 8463 Melrose Pl #4, Los Angeles instagram.com/colettejewelry
Yewn | Landmark 6-10 Lexington St, Soho, London instagram.com/eagletta
FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO HONG KONG, HERE IS A JOURNEY THROUGH THE MOST ENCHANTING BOUTIQUES THAT HAVE JUST OPENED THEIR DOORS TO THE WORLD.
Dior Joaillerie 34, Avenue Montaigne, Paris instagram.com/dior
Hero Shop SF 982 Post St, San Francisco instagram.com/heroshopsf
The store that mistook itself for a house
The elegance of Colette After Mexico, the designer Colette Steckel has landed in West Hollywood with a new, sophisticated flagship store: black and white marble and lavender grey walls with gold finishes to form a proscenium on which triumph exclusive creations by Steckel, suffused with romance and theatricality • Dopo Città del Messico, la designer Colette Steckel è sbarcata a West Hollywood con un nuovo, raffinato flagship store: marmi neri e bianchi e pareti grigio lavanda con dettagli in oro formano un proscenio sul quale trionfano le sue creazioni esclusive, soffuse di romanticismo e teatralità.
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A new home for Dior Opposite its historic first home, in Avenue Montaigne, Dior opened, last October, a boutique dedicated entirely to jewellery and watches. The space, designed by architect Peter Marino, is presented in pink and grey and boasts a VIP lounge decorated with furniture by Vincenzo de Cotiis and works by Damien Hirst •
Di fronte alla sua storica prima boutique, in Avenue Montaigne, Dior ha aperto lo scorso ottobre una boutique dedicata interamente a gioielli e orologi. Lo spazio, firmato dall’architetto Peter Marino, è declinato nei toni rosa e grigio e dispone di un salone VIP decorato con mobili di Vincenzo de Cotiis e opere di Damien Hirst.
Hero-style shopping Opened in San Francisco by Emily Holt, former Fashion Editor for Vogue, Hero Shop is a concept store that ‘hovers’ between accessibility and exclusivity: it ranges from a Myriam Schaefer bag priced at
$5 thousand to vintage crockery by Fishs Eddy, for sale at less than $10. In addition, the store is home to cult jewellery by Delfina Delettrez, Of Rare Origin and CVC Stones • Aperto a San Francisco da Emily Holt, ex Fashion Editor di Vogue, Hero Shop è
un concept store che ʻdanzaʼ tra accessibilità ed esclusività: si spazia dalla borsa Myriam Schaefer da 5mila dollari alle stoviglie vintage di Fishs Eddy, in vendita a meno di dieci. Inoltre, qui sono di casa i gioielli cult di Delfina Delettrez, Of Rare Origin e CVC Stones.
The new Alex Eagle store in Lexington Street, London, introduces a new innovative approach to shopping. The location, decorated by artists Annie Morris and Tanya Ling, creates a wide selection touching different aspects in our lives: clothes, design, books, music and food. And of course, jewellery (from Charlotte Chesnais to Bibi Van der Velden) • Il nuovo store di Alex Eagle, in Lexington Street a Londra, introduce una diversa idea di shopping. Negli spazi decorati dagli artisti Annie Morris e Tanya Ling prende forma una visione trasversale a tutti gli aspetti della vita: abbigliamento, design, libri, cibo e musica. E poi, gioielli (da Charlotte Chesnais a Bibi Van der Velden).
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FARAH KHAN — FEEL AND DREAM Always on the move, Farah Khan, the leading jewellery designer, has recently relocated into a bigger manufacturing unit and gives us a tour of the whole facility. Text by Preeta Agarwaal
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WORD OF MOUTH Agenda AFTERWORD Journey Into
Italian jewellery of the 20th century From Art Nouveau to the nineties, goldsmith production in Italy is the protagonist at Museo Poldi Pezzoli in Milan.
Until March 20 the museum in via Manzoni presents the history of 20th century Italian jewellery by displaying more than 150 works gathered in the exhibition 'Italian jewellery of the 20th century': a tribute to the Italian handicraft. The exhibition, curated by jewellery historian Melissa Gabardi, offers an unprecedented bird’s eye view of Italian production in the 1900s and its evolution through the decades. On display there are tiaras, diadems, belly button pendants, rings, bracelets, brooches and earrings made by masters like the Milanese Mario and Gianmaria Buccellati, Alfredo Ravasco and Cusi, Filippo Chiappe from Genova, Musy from Turin and Petochi from Rome, all the way to the neoarcheologism of Codognato and the coral jewellery of the Ascione family • MG Il gioiello italiano del XX secolo. Dal Liberty agli anni ’90, la
Unlike the usual process of a journey starting from design, for Farah the journey of a piece starts from her thoughts that come to her while on the move. It could be a river in the Amazon, architecture in Mumbai, a bee on a flower or even colourful ice cream in Turkey: the smallest of details can capture her attention and bring ideas to life. Not to lose out on any ideas, a small sketchbook and pens are a permanent fixture in her handbag and one can often spot her scribbling little doodles even by the side of the road. The brands tagline 'Where Precious Becomes Priceless' says a lot about the brand’s DNA as unique ideas find their way into her jewels. It is intricate, striking, bold and feminine at the same time. Not shying away from volume, Farah’s jewellery is flamboyant just like her own personality. As one enters her office in the newly relocated manufacturing unit in Mumbai, elephant statues, zebra paintings and
colourful goodies against white backgrounds greet you. Taking one’s cue from the same, one can often spot tigers, snakes, insects, flowers and butterflies encrusted with the finest quality of diamonds and gemstones like the latest Art Deco-styled elephant pendant with a magnificent aquamarine and black onyx combination that I got a glimpse of. One thing that sets her jewellery apart from her counterparts in India is her unusual use of coloured gemstones that is both fresh in colour and fearless in size. «I believe that customers don’t know that they have a taste for what is different until they no longer see what is different. I love vibrant colours and therefore use gemstones which have life & lustre, which sparkle and leave a twinkle in the eye», she says while examining her latest gemstone purchase spread out in front of her. Though emeralds rule the list of her favourites and one can often spot a large emerald ring on her hand, she uses a whole gamut of colours in her jewellery from rubelites, amethysts, turquoises and aquamarines to tanzanites, chrysoprase and citrines. Educated at GIA and heading a team of over 80 jewellery designers and artisans working for her, each piece designed is manufactured in-house and Farah personally overlooks each piece being manufactured at every step of the process. «Every jewellery piece that comes out of our Farah Khan Fine Jewellery (FKFJ) brand is a representation of me and there-
The treasure of the Cyclades Bracelets, necklaces, earrings and anklets dating back to 4000 BC: the exhibition Vanity: Stories of Jewelry in the Cyclades opens an invaluable window on jewellery art of the Dodecanese. Open until October. Tra bracciali, collane, orecchini e cavigliere risalenti fino al 4000 a.C., l’esposizione Vanity: Stories of Jewelry in the Cyclades apre una inestimabile finestra sull’arte del gioiello nel Dodecaneso. Visitabile fino a ottobre. Ph. Satish Tiwari
jewellery designer by profession, a wanderer at heart and a social media diva, A Farah Khan effortlessly impersonates all these characteristics at once. Hailing from a famous Bollywood family, Farah broke the stereotype when she decided to become a jewellery designer. Today, with more than 20 years of experience tucked under her title, she is a celebrated designer globally and the proud owner of one of the most successful jewellery brands in India.
Anello scultura in oro giallo e diamanti taglio a brillante, Serafini.
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produzione orafa del Belpaese è protagonista al Museo Poldi Pezzoli di Milano. Fino al 20 marzo la casa museo di via Manzoni presenta la storia della gioielleria italiana del XX secolo e dei suoi protagonisti, attraverso l’esposizione di più di 150 opere riunite nella mostra 'Il gioiello italiano del XX secolo': un omaggio al saper fare artigianale italiano. La mostra, a cura della storica del gioiello Melissa Gabardi, racconta, per la prima volta, lo scenario della produzione italiana del ‘900. In mostra tiare e diademi, collane ombelicali, anelli, bracciali, spille e orecchini realizzati dai grandi nomi dell’oreficeria italiana: dai monili di Mario e poi di Gianmaria Buccellati, alle creazioni del milanese Alfredo Ravasco, del genovese Filippo Chiappe, dei torinesi Musy, del romano Petochi e del milanese Cusi, fino al neoarcheologismo di Codognato e ai gioielli in corallo della Famiglia Ascione.
Old but gold With the exhibition Past Is Present: Revival Jewelry, the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston celebrates the Art of revival which spans jewellery production of the last two centuries. The exhibition opens on February 14. Con la mostra Past Is Present: Revival Jewelry, il Museum of Fine Arts di Boston celebra l’Arte del revival che ha attraversato la produzione di preziosi negli ultimi due secoli. Inaugurazione il 14 febbraio.
Above: Bronze pinswith bird-form heads. Kythnos. Geometric / Archaic period.
Left: LE CAROSE Diary necklaces 'My Dream' in bronze with glitter enamels. Collane diario ‘My Dream’ in bronzo con smalti glitterati. Right: LES GEORGETTES PARIS Plated metal and leather bracelets. Bracciali in metallo placcato e vera pelle.
Photography
STEFANO CAMPO ANTICO Styling
ANITA SCIACCA
WITH A PERFECT BALANCING ACT BETWEEN AESTHETIC AUDACITY OF CONCEPTS AND METICULOUS HARMONY OF SHAPES, JEWELS TAKE US ON AN EXCITING RIDE OF PLAYFUL SPLENDOUR AND A DELICATE NOSTALGIC ATMOSPHERE. 264
Facing page,: EVANUEVA 'Hobo' bracelet in grey Bakelite and turquoise stone paste, white gold and diamonds. From the same collection, rings in Bakelite, white gold and diamonds. Bracciale ‘Hobo’ in bakelite grigia e pietra pasta turchese, oro bianco e diamanti. Dalla stessa collezione, anello in bakelite, oro rosa e diamanti.
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Celebrity Rules
WORD OF MOUTH People To Watch
From left Alessandra Ambrosio in Bulgari, Cannes 2016. Jennifer Lopez in Sutra, Met Gala 2015. Milla Jovovich in De Grisogono, amfAR Gala 2016. Toni Garrn in De Grisogono, amfAR Gala 2016. Rihanna in Jack Vartanian, Brit Awads 2016. Penelope Cruz in Messika, 2016. Charlize Theron in Harry Winston, Oscar 2016. Cate Blanchett in Tiffany & Co., Oscar 2016. Bella Hadid in De Grisogono, amfAR Gala 2016.
rispondere alle richieste dei consumatori. Per esempio, se un brand riesce ad avere l’esclusiva con una celebrity, ma il sito web non è soddisfacente, i pezzi desiderati non disponibili e i social media non in linea con l'identità del marchio, il danno sui potenziali consumatori e follower è enorme. E per lavorare con una celebrity? Bisogna trovare un’agenzia PR con esperienza consolidata e che conosca tutti gli strumenti necessari per assicurarsi le esclusive. In generale è un percorso lungo. Noi siamo molto selettivi con i brand, non vogliamo ci sia competizione e non vogliamo far loro perdere né tempo né risorse. Come si sceglie una celebrity? Chiediamo sempre alle aziende le loro preferenze, ma di base crediamo nel valore dei rapporti spontanei e nella loro cura sin dall’inizio perché questo è un settore che è fondato sulle relazioni interpersonali. Ciò significa che a volte bisogna arrivare a dei compromessi.
Celebrity Rules
Show-off, red carpet, visibility, communication and a good marketing. The things to do to keep pace with success. orking with celebrities is a whole different world. GinW nina D’Orazio, owner of the D’Orazio & Associates PRagency, with showrooms that focus on Fine Jewellery and Fashion, in Beverly Hills and New York, explains to us what it means to work with celebrities. «Companies need to
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be ready, this includes having enough stock for PR purposes, marketing material and sales outlets accessible for consumers. If a brand gets a placement (on a celebrity) and consumers find that the website isn’t right, the item isn’t for sale and social media isn’t in line with the voice of the brand, then it could lose that potential following!»
Where do you start, if you want to work with a celebrity? Find a PR agency with a proven track record and provide them with the tools to secure worthwhile placements. This takes time, we are very selective with brands, and we don’t want them to compete with each other. Do you have a choice in celebrity? Yes and no. We always encourage brands to give us a wish-list. That said, we believe in organic relationships and cultivating that too with up-and-comers early on. This is an industry that is completely based
on relationships. That means we need to give and take at times. How much does it cost to work with a PR agency like yours? It depends if you are interested in our editorial and Red carpet services or in being stocked in our showrooms. We can also give consulting, digital media, create events. In short, celebrities can have a huge impact and can, when done right, influence the outcome of your sales. Brands needs to be prepared and do their homework, before investing time and money in seeking placements on the red carpets! •
Celebrity Rules. Show-off, red carpet, visibilità, comunicazione e un ottimo marketing. Ginnina D’Orazio, titolare dell’agenzia PR D’Orazio & Associates, con uno showroom specializzato in gioielli e moda aventi sede a Beverly Hills e New York, ci spiega cosa significa lavorare con un personaggio famoso. Di cosa ha bisogno un'azienda per muovere i primi passi in questo mondo? Le aziende devono essere sempre pronte, avere a disposizione materiali a supporto dell'attività di comunicazione, PR, marketing e per i punti vendita, in modo da
Quanto costa lavorare con un’agenzia PR come la vostra? Dipende! Varia a seconda degli interessi: servizi editoriali, rappresentanza nel nostro showroom di New York, o magari se si richiedono i servizi 'Red Carpet' che offriamo su Los Angeles. A questo si aggiungono consulenza, digital media e organizzazione di eventi. In poche parole, riuscire a lavorare con un personaggio famoso può avere un impatto enorme, influenzando di molto il risultato delle vendite. Ma prima di investire tempo e denaro per ottenere un posizionamento in esclusiva sul red carpet, è fondamentale che le aziende siano pronte e molto organizzate.
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WORD OF MOUTH Brandlist
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A. Lange & Sohne alange-soehne.com
CaOro caoro.it
Eddie Borgo eddieborgo.com
Ioanna Souflia ioannasouflia.com
Nanis nanis.it
Sanket sanket.be
Aisegul Telli aisegultelli.com
Cameo Italiano cameoitaliano.it
Eva Theuerzeit evatheuerzeit.nl
Ippolita ippolita.com
NC Rocks nc-rocks.com
Sardo Gioielli sardogioielli.it
Al Coro alcoro.com
Cervera Barcelona cerverajewels.com
Evanueva evanueva.it
Irene Neuwirth ireneneuwirth.com
Nicholas Varney nicholasvarneyjewels.com
Scilla Andrioli Stuart scillaandriolistuart.com
Alexander Calder calder.org
Cesare & Rinaldi futurgem.com
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Istanboulli Gioielli istanboulligioielli.com
Noor Fares noorfares.com
Sharra Pagano sharrapagano.it
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Novecentonovantanove
Shaun Leane shaunleane.com
Amlé amle.it Anapsara anapsara.com Anna Hu anna-hu.com Annie Berner annieberner.com Annie Costello Brown anniecostellobrown.com Annoushka Ducas annoushka.com Antonini antonini.it Ara Vartanian aravartanian.com
Cetas cetasjewelry.com Chanel Joaillerie chanel.com Chanteclair chantecler.it Chaumet chaumet.com Chopard chopard.it Christopher Kane christopherkane.com Coco's Liberty cocosliberty.com Colette Steckel colettejewelry.com Couleurs de Gèraldine cdgstyle.com
Audemars Piguet audemarspiguet.com
Crieri crieri.com
Azzurra Cesari futurgem.com
Crivelli crivelligioielli.com
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Benedetta Dubini dubini.co.uk
D'orica dorica.com
Boccadamo boccadamo.com Borsari Gioielli borsarigioielli.com Boucheron boucheron.com Brech Design break.it
Damiani damiani.com Daniela Villegas danielavillegas.com Danielle Miele gemgossip.com David Morris davidmorris.com
Breguet breguet.com
David Webb davidwebb.com
Bros Manifatture brosmanifatture.it
De Grisogono degrisogono.com
Brosway brosway.com
De Simone desimonefratelli.com
Buccellati buccellati.com
Delfina Delettrez ww.delfinadelettrez.com
Bulgari bulgari.com
Dior Jewellery dior.com
Butani butani.com
novecentonovantanove.com
Facet new.facet.es
Jack Vartanian us.jackvartanian.com
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Farah Khan farahkhan.com
Jacob & Co. jacobandco.com
Palmiero palmierogioielli.com
Federica Rettore federicarettore.com
JJewels bluewhitegroup.it
Patek Philippe patek.com
Fernando Jorge fernandojorge.co.uk
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Piaget piaget.com
Fope fope.com Foundrae foundrae.com Fratelli Bovo fratellibovo.com
G Garavelli garavellialdo.com Gemfields gemfields.co.uk Giampiero Bodino giampierobodino.com Gilan gilan.com Giovanni Ferraris ferraris.it Glashütte Original glashuette-original.com Glenn Spiro glennspiro.com Goldiaq goldiaq.com Graziella gruppograziella.it
H Hans D. Krieger kriegernet.com Harry Winston harrywinston.com Himo Jewelry himojewellery.com House of Holland houseofholland.co.uk Hulchi Belluni hulchibelluni.com
Kat Florence katflorence.com Kova Jewels kovajewels.com
L Le Carose lecarose.com Le Vian levian.com Lebole Gioielli lebolegioielli.it
Pianegonda pianegonda.com
Marroni Design marronidesign.com Mattia Cielo mattiacielo.com MayMoma maymoma.com Messika messika.com
Sutra sutrajewels.com
Tiffany & Co. tiffany.it
PVZ Neonero neonero.it
Tjep tjep.com
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Tomasz Donocik tomaszdonocik.com
Qayten qayten.net
R.Y.M. Jewelry rymjewelry.com
Mania Zamani maniazamani.com
Stella & Dot stelladot.com
Prestige prestige272ar.it
Loto Preziosi lotopreziosi.it
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Spallanzani spallanzanijewels.com
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Lydia Courteille lydiacourteille.com
Sian Evans sejewellery.com
Piero Milano piero-milano.it
Les Georgettes Paris lesgeorgettes.com
Louis Vuitton Jewellery it.louisvuitton.com
Shimmell & Madden shimellandmadden.com
Repossi repossi.com Richemont richemont.com Rivière rivieregioielli.com Roberto Bravo robertobravo.com Roberto Coin it.robertocoin.com Rodney Rayner rodneyrayner.com Ronco ronchigioielli.com Rosato rosato.it
V-Z Valentina Callegher Fine Italian Jewellery digovalenza.it Valery Demure valerydemure.com Van Cleef & Arpels vancleefarpels.com Van Leles vanleles.com Vendorafa Lombardi vendorafa.net Vianna Brasil viannabrasil.com Vicky Lew vickylew.com Voga & Co. Gioielli vogagioielli.it Wanda Nylon wandanylon.fr
Midas midas.com.tr
Wempe wempe.com
Mizuki mizukijewelry.com
Wendy Yue wendyyue.com
Montur Dizayn monturdizayn.com
Yewn yewn.com
Moraglione - 1922 moraglione.com
Yoko London yokolondon.com Yvel yvel.com
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Ph.Alberto Sinigaglia Maxwell
Amedeo Piccione amedeopiccione.com
F.A. Gioielli fagioielli.it