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CONTENTS 5
NEWS
While everyone FFD has spoken with offers a cautious caveat or two, there is a positive energy about the trade now
12 SHOP TALK 17 CHEESEWIRE
By Michael Lane, editor
25 CHARCUTERIE 28 CATEGORY FOCUS: TEA, COFFEE, HOME-BAKING, CAKES & PUDDINGS 39 FOODSERVICE 45 SHELF TALK 50 DELI OF THE MONTH 55 GUILD TALK
May 2021 Volume 22 Issue 4 gff.co.uk
You know you’ve reached a certain age when you find yourself gardening at the weekend. Putting my dismay at the passing of time aside, the task of digging out a new vegetable bed did start to feel a little futile after a couple of hours. I found myself getting a familiar pandemic feeling. I expect everyone in our industry knows it well. You’re working so hard (and you’ve done so for such a long time) that you’re now not even sure why you’re doing it anymore – and whether it will be worth it. But now is not the time for an existential crisis, especially with Boris’s roadmap still unfurling in front of us. I may not have made it to a beer garden yet, but I did manage to get to the seaside and check out Barney’s Deli in Brighton (see page 50). I left the shop with some excellent Sussex cheese and a good helping of owner Michaela Myers’s infectious cheerfulness. It’s nice to encounter businesses that
are positive about what’s still to come as the country continues to open up after a tough 12 months. Similarly heartening was my discussion with Somerset Charcuterie (page 25) about how it survived the loss of foodservice and is now launching a pepperoni to go on the countless pizzas that will be cranked out at home and in restaurants over the coming months. You might also get some encouragement from our piece on urban deli owners who are finding ways to boost their outdoor seating (see page 39). While everyone FFD has spoken to offers a cautious caveat or two, there is a positive energy about the trade now. Even though it’s been a slog for many food producers and retailers, now is not the time to let up, as you’ll see from our story about supermarkets and their new initiatives (page 6). Whether it’s Iceland’s convenience format, The
EDITOR’S CHOICE
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Tom Dale, assistant editor
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Do Goodly Dips
Tasty Tomato & Bean Houmous ALSO INSIDE Highland Fine Cheeses The story behind Bristol’s Two Belly Outdoor seating strategies
Cover image by Michael Lane
Tapping into key markets for this summer’s inevitable outdoor dining boom is this new brand Do Goodly Dips. Aimed at health-conscious consumers, and 100% plant-based, the new four-strong range ticks
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many dietary-requirement boxes, and this take on the classic houmous is the top of the tree as far as I’m concerned. It’s creamy but not without texture and sweet yet tangy from the tomatoes and lemon. What’s more, there are no ‘reds’ in the nutritional information and no hidden nasties in the ingredients. Read more on p.45
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Co-op’s Deliveroo tie-up or new wine ranges at Waitrose, multiples are clearly keen to capitalise on the good work independents have done to boost the image of food retail. Top retailer, and chairman of the FRA, Rob Copley suggests that many independents will now need to rediscover some of their ‘destination’ appeal, while still maintaining the safety and convenient service they have been offering. As always, we’ll do our best to help you keep going. Stock up for those customers that are meeting up in the garden as we cover all manner of hot and cold beverages, homebaking and cakes (from page 28) and make sure you read about the Guild of Fine Food’s extensive new Code of Practice to help retailers with the technical aspects of running a deli (page 9). Whether it’s literal or metaphorical, make sure you keep digging. I have a feeling it will be worth it.
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Vol.22 Issue 4 | May 2021
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NEWS
Lawyer’s warning over ‘legal minefield’ of retail coronavirus vaccine passports By Greg Pitcher
Using tests and vaccines to control who enters a shop is a “legal minefield”, a food retail legal specialist has warned. Dominic Watkins, head of retail, food and hospitality at legal services firm DWF, said COVID-19 compliance was becoming “the new PPI” for certain law firms seeking to bring mass claims. Prime minister Boris Johnson has long spoken of the key role mass testing and vaccination will play in the country’s exit strategy from lockdown. Pilots began in April of a system the government said could eventually allow higher-risk settings to open up more safely by allowing people in based on their vaccination history, natural immunity from contracting the disease or a recent negative test result. While the prime minister ruled out the use of status certification –
COVID passports could create legal issues for retailers
dubbed COVID passports – when pubs fully opened in May, he did say lateral flow testing would be “a great advantage to us all as we go forward”. Watkins said that while it was “theoretically possible” to use tests and vaccines to create COVIDfree food shops, such a move could be difficult to implement in practice without inviting legal claims. “Discrimination claims have been a massive growth area through the pandemic,” he said. “Some of them are genuine, some
less so.” Refusing entry to a member of staff or the public who turned down a vaccine for medical reasons could be seen as discriminatory, Watkins explained, while expecting someone to take a test could be viewed as unreasonable. “Look at posts about face coverings on social media,” he added. “You could lose a week on the comments sections. “There are dozens of claims management companies looking at
COVID-19 as the new payment protection insurance, the new emissions scandal. Unions have created apps asking people to upload information about their work conditions to identify where businesses are not COVID-secure. “There are law firms specialising in discrimination and you can download template letters from their website.” Ultimately employees and customers have to consent to having tests or vaccines, and can’t be treated differently if they don’t, Watkins said. Aside from this, companies conducting tests take on a responsibility to report them and have to be careful they don’t breach data protection law. “It is wonderful that the prime minister says these things but the practicalities are often somewhat more challenging to implement without significant risks,” he added.
Cottage Delight founder Nigel Cope dies at home aged 72
Next steps in Government’s roadmap out of lockdown
The man behind iconic fine food company Cottage Delight has died aged 72. Nigel Cope – who started the famous brand in 1974 after leaving a corporate job at food giants Unilever – died at his Staffordshire home earlier this year. Cope, who was born in Carmarthen in 1948, founded the award-winning business as a fudge producer but went on to develop a range of products sold in delis and farm shops across the UK. The businessman sold the Leek-based producer to Vestey Holdings in 2016, but the company remains committed to its independent roots. Cope was handed the Guild of Fine Food Lifetime
From 17th May, if the government remains happy with England’s progress in exiting the winter lockdown, hospitality venues such as pubs and restaurants will be able to welcome customers back inside for the first time in more than four months. Groups will be limited to six people or two households, and customers will have to remain seated while they eat, drink and order. Cinemas, hotels and children’s play areas will also reopen at this point, again with the same limits on visiting groups. Up to 30 people will be able to attend weddings, funerals, receptions, wakes, christenings and similar events. Indoor events will be allowed attendances of half their capacities up to a limit of 1,000 people. For outdoor events the attendance limit will be raised to 10,000 where the capacity is 40,000 or higher. People will still be advised to work from home where possible and keep a distance of at least a metre from others outside their household or legal support bubble. If the data shows the country is still moving in the right direction then the government has said it hopes to remove all legal limits on social contact on 21st June.
Achievement award at the 2012 Great Taste Golden Fork ceremony, attributing the honour to sticking to his principle of keeping the business independent-only. Cope is survived by his wife Diana; his children, Lisa, Paul and Michael; his step-children, James, Tom and Sam; and his five grandchildren and six stepgrandchildren.
WHAT THEY ARE SAYING ABOUT... FOOD SHOPS REQUIRING COVID JABS JENNIE ALLEN OWNER, BAYLEY & SAGE, LONDON
“I have personally been vaccinated and a lot of customers have too. It is up to the staff whether they have tests and vaccinations. We have lived with too many rules for too long. For all of us it will be good to get back towards normal life. Serving olives is a long way off. But it will just be nice to have some form of normality back.” JEN GRIMSTONE -JONES CHEESE ETC., BERKSHIRE
“All of our staff have had their first vaccinations and are all extremely careful both in the shop and away from it. We don’t feel that it is appropriate for our staff to have to police customers and so we won’t be asking for any proof of vaccination or a Covid test. I think the public, on the whole, have been wonderful.” STEVEN SALAMON PROPRIETOR, WALLY’S DELI, CARDIFF
“If a member of staff refused to get the jab without a reason which I consider valid, I would see that as a problem and would have to consider what further action I might take. New staff will be asked for proof they have had the jab, where it has been offered. It is putting other staff and customers at unnecessary risk.” Vol.22 Issue 4 | May 2021
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NEWS
CYBER CRIME
Supermarkets adapting to challenge indies after growth of ‘shop local’ movement By Greg Pitcher
Supermarkets and online grocers are adapting their business models to compete with delis and farm shops that have thrived during the pandemic, key figures have warned. Industry commentators said independent food retailers faced a major battle with multiples that had seen a switch in buying behaviour over the last 12 months and were now looking to capitalise. Although supermarkets have benefited from the closure of non-essential shops, they have also watched some customers switch to buying from l Morrisons is allowing customers to bring their own containers to its butchery and deli counters as well as removing plastic bags
l Co-op has teamed up with Deliveroo to offer people home delivery in as little as 30 minutes from ordering
l Iceland has opened a trial convenience store under the banner ‘Fast. Fresh. Local’
l Tesco is rolling out recycling points for soft plastic items such as cling film and crisp packets
smaller specialists during the COVID-19 crisis. Now, many are looking to play up their community credentials – opening neighbourhood stores, launching environmental initiatives, rolling out rapid delivery and luring parents with discounts (see box). Andrew Goodacre, chief executive of the British Independent Retailers Association, said the large chains were always changing their tactics in light of customer behaviour. “No doubt some of it will challenge the independent shops,” he said. “The extra competition will keep them on their toes.” “The supermarkets all l Waitrose is launching a wine brand developed and owned by staff at a South African winery and is offering extra subsidies to low-income parents given government vouchers for healthy food
l Sainsbury’s is opening 18 ‘Neighbourhood Hub’ stores that the firm says have ‘community at heart’ l On-demand grocer Weezy has expanded into Brighton offering delivery at a claimed average delivery time of ’15 minutes or less’
MPs call for further support in foodservice supply chain MPs have demanded an urgent review of how small suppliers have been affected by the enforced closure of foodservice during lockdown. The cross-party Environment, Food and Rural Affairs Committee called for ministers to provide financial support for suppliers as hotels, restaurants, cafes and bars began to reopen. In a report to government, the group raised “concern” that 6
May 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 4
suppliers did not receive the same financial help as the hospitality businesses forced to shut their doors. “Many of these suppliers are small businesses, who will be particularly vulnerable as the economy starts to reopen,” added the report. “Both hospitality providers, and many public sector organisations, are reliant on them. “The government’s support to hospitality
Good customer service is one area where indies can maintain a point of difference from supermarkets
realise that there has been a shift to local shopping and so we can expect to see more of the smaller store format. “There are also a couple of companies in London doing basic grocery deliveries within 30 minutes, tapping into the convenience need of young working people.” Goodacre said independent retailers should focus on the elements they can do better than the chains, including personality and offering a bespoke service. “I genuinely think they will continue to thrive,” he added. Rob Copley, chairman of the Farm Retail Association, said the challenge was to be expected from big companies who could deliver at scale. “The whole
businesses will be wasted if their supply chain collapses. We therefore recommend that the government urgently assesses the impact of the closures to the hospitality sector on its suppliers, especially small businesses, and provides additional financial support to them during the period of reopening.” Ministers should also look to reverse any loss of market share suffered by small retailers as a result of the temporary relaxation of competition law during the pandemic and “encourage greater
country has changed over the past 12 months, and food purchasing has become more like the fast-food industry,” he said. “Customer service used to be king but now you are two metres away behind a mask – safety and speed are the new kings.” Copley said that as supermarkets muscled in on the convenience of local stores, independents had to get back to becoming attractions. “We need to get back to being a destination. People are desperate to have something to do. But safety will still override customer service.” He added: “The cream will rise to the top. Some very average indies have done well over the last year because of demand, but several will be struggling in six months.”
market access for locally produced foods” said the study. The committee also said momentum to provide food security across the country must be maintained as the roadmap is followed and lockdown restrictions are eased. Highlighting that almost one in 10 households had suffered food poverty during England’s winter lockdowns, the panel of MPs called for the creation of a minister for food security and consultation over a national right to food.
IN BRIEF Parmigiano Reggiano PDO enjoyed a 7.9% Walter Smith Fine Foods increase in salesthe in Italy has announced and a 10.7% increase closure of three stores abroad, including a in the Midlands. The 21.8% the UK butcheruplift chaininrevealed last according overyear Christmas that to its the Consortium. 2020 Denby Village, West was also a and record year Bromwich Coventry for production of the shops would stop trading, cheese, sawoutlets a total– leaving itwhich with 11 increase of 4.9%. many of which are within garden centres. There are changes to EU law now in effect Tracklements hasthat will affect hired Ben traders Hallam who for move certain live animals, the role of commercial germinal and manager,products which includes products ofnew animal origin identifying market to Northern Ireland, or opportunities. Hallam the EU Export joinsEU. theAll Wiltshire-based Health Certificates (EHCs) condiment specialist after need to be updated 11 years at dairy firmto Yeo reflect Valley. the new rules, but this will be phased in before August. Health food retailer Planet Organic has Connage Highland moved into the hot food Dairy, based at Ardersier delivery market and near Inverness, teamed up withhas high-end opened a vending service Supper, which operation, machine will courier a selection selling organic of to-goitsitems and sushi milk pre-bottled from(both two Central London and refills), the dairy’s stores. cheeses, and products from other local businesses such as eggs, bacon and chutneys. The vending machine will be open seven days a week from 7am to 7pm. According to research by Wren Kitchens, a quarter of Brits can’t correctly identify common kitchen utensils. 51% of Brits surveyed didn’t know what a fish slice is, 48% couldn’t pick out a lemon squeezer, one-in-five mislabelled a carving fork as an ice pick and 16% wrongly identified a pasta maker as a paper shredder. Wholesaler Cure & Curd is launching a bid to tackle food waste with its ‘Rescue Range’. This will make use of products nearing the end of their shelf life. The first line is a Broccoli & Stilton Soup. curdandcure.co.uk
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May 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 4
NEWS
‘Critical’ guide to technical and regulatory deli retailing released by Guild of Fine Food By Tom Dale
The Guild of Fine Food has released its Deli Retailing Code of Practice, a package of technical and regulatory advice for specialist food retailers. Launched in April, The Code provides specific guidance on safe retailing of key deli products and addresses the most common issues arising between small shops and environmental health officers (EHOs). Karen Price of the Guild of Fine Food, who is leading the project, said: “This is critical information about processes and procedures involved in running a deli that all retailers should know and be following.” It includes food safety essentials, good hygiene practices and up-to-date trading standards, as well as answers to questions that the Guild encounters regularly, and also offers retailers protection against
No slow-down in online shopping Despite the imminent return of physical retail, online sales in March were up 62% on the same period in the first lockdown. According to Office for National Statistics (ONS) figures, online sales boomed 0.6% in March against February – the largest monthly growth since June 2020 – and over 60% year on year. The ONS also reported growth in the portion of overall consumer spend taken up by online. Last March, internet sales took just 23.1% of the UK’s entire retail spend; this March, that figure had climbed to 34.7%. Footfall soared over 80% during the first week that non-essential stores reopened, but the early signs are that in-store shopping was still down by 25% on 2019’s pre-COVID levels.
The Code of Practice includes food safety and hygiene practices
EHOs who may not fully understand the nuances of fine food retail. John Farrand, managing director of the Guild said: “We identified a critical need for this guide, driven by significant confusion in the deli world between retailers and their EHOs. “The Guild insisted that a marker be put down on an agreed-upon set of standards that in turn encourages safer retailing. “It’s really about how products are stored and sold and giving the retailer
knowledge on how they are made. It gives us all a standard to adhere to across the industry so that the customers get food that is safe but is also sold in the right condition to enjoy.” The guide was compiled by a team of legal, food safety and retail experts – including former FFD editor Mick Whitworth – together with advisors from Cornwall Council, with whom the Guild has formed a coordinated Primary Authority (PA) partnership. The PA partnership –
DOWN ON THE FARM Essex foodies have a new destination to sink their teeth into. Poplar Food Hall is a 3,000 sqft specialist food retailer based at Poplar Nurseries outside Colchester stocking a range of locally sourced produce and its opening on 24th March was set to create ten new jobs. Built to cope with growing demand for more local produce in the farm shop, the new larger premises will stock more of their home-cooked treats, ready meals, a larger selection of local fruit and veg and fresh fish. poplarnurseries.co.uk/ food/poplar-food-hall A brand-new Cornish farm shop has recently opened its doors. Located in Saint Austell,
which members of the Guild are automatically opted into – offers a level of protection from challenges raised by hygiene officers against deli owners’ procedures, if they are following the advice laid out. The Code is not set in stone, said Farrand, and will be updated as new information and legislation comes to light. “This is a living, breathing piece of work and we will have a technical committee that will look at queries and objections from either EHOs or retailers when they raise points against it and we’ll have to consider them and continually tweak the document.” The guide is available in PDF format and is free for members of the Guild of Fine Food. For non-members, it costs £250+VAT. To request a copy of the Code of Practice, or for any further information, email support@gff.co.uk
IN BRIEF North WalterWales Smithfarm Fine Foods shop Rhug Estate has announced thehas introduced sustainable closure of three stores packaging for the in the Midlands. The majority of its organic butcher chain revealed meat products. that The its over Christmas introduction of West new Denby Village, cardboard meat trays, Bromwich and Coventry which can bestop disposed shops would trading, of in a standard leaving it with 11recycling outlets – bin, is of thewhich latestare move many within by the retailer garden centres.to combat plastic waste. Tracklements has hired High-street Ben Hallam butcher’s for the role shops have enjoyed a of commercial manager, bumper year over the last which includes identifying 12 new data newmonths marketwith opportunishowing thatjoins 630,000 ties. Hallam the more households visited Wiltshire-based condiindependent butchers ment specialist after 11 in Britain, compared years at dairy firm Yeoto the previous year and Valley. have spent nearly 50% more per trip compared to otherfood retailers when Health retailer Planpurchasing meat. et Organic has moved into the hot food delivery market and teamed up The of the withorganisers high-end service Natural & Organic Supper, which will courier Products a selectionEurope of to-go items trade show decided and sushi from two Centhis year’s to tralpostpone London stores. event. The natural products, health food and organic industries show will now take place on 3rd-4th April 2022.
The latest from farm shops across the country as B&B accommodation. pennburyfarm.co.uk
Poplar Food Hall
Trevithick and Trays Farm Shop & Café is stocking its shelves with numerous West Country products and offering fresh, local produce and locally sourced artisan delights. Trevithick’s new on-site café is due to open later in the month. facebook.com/trevithick andtraysfarmshop By converting neighbouring barns, Pennbury Farm Shop has
recently undergone an expansion. Located in the beautiful Leicestershire countryside, Pennbury’s newly converted barns are now home to an expanded farm shop offering a butcher, a deli, homewares, a café and an animal feed store, as well
Permission has been granted for a brand-new farm shop and café to open in East Bergholt in Suffolk. Cleverly and beautifully located alongside a fully furnished yoga studio, Fields Farm Shop & Café is sure to become part of a ‘wellness’ destination this summer by stocking sustainably sourced, local produce. Open seven days a week, Fields Farm Shop’s rustic styled café will be serving delicious seasonal dishes daily. fieldskitchen.co.uk
In association with
Fabulous Farm Shops fabulousfarmshops.co.uk
Vol.22 Issue 4 | May 2021
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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
Canary Islands
Cheese treasure islands The warm, volcanic landscape of the Canary Islands is home to some of Spain’s finest cheeses, each with their own story to tell VISITORS TO THE CANARY ISLANDS understandably find it hard to leave the pristine beaches that have helped make the Spanish archipelago such a popular destination for holidaymakers. The islands’ position in the Atlantic Ocean, close to the coast of Morocco, guarantees warm sun almost all year round on some of the finest coastlines in the world. But venture beyond the tourist hotspots and explore a little deeper, and you will soon discover a unique volcanic landscape. Each of the eight main islands has its own distinct character, thanks to a variety of different geographies, altitudes and micro-climates. These range from lush and sub-tropical to rocky, arid and mountainous – sometimes even on the same island. Wherever you roam, there’s a good chance you might bump into a goat or sheep. The animals are well-suited to the diverse terrain and are an important part of the islands’ history, economy and food culture, providing 10
May 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 4
milk for cheeses that are as varied as the countryside. The arid plains of Fuerteventura, which measures just 62 miles long and 19 miles wide, are home to a particularly special goat breed, linked to one of the Canaries’ most famous cheeses. Majorero goats have been bred over centuries to adapt to the desert-like conditions, producing large quantities of rich, aromatic
milk, which is used to make a hard cheese of the same name. Aged from just a few weeks to several months, Queso Majorero is protected by a PDO (Protected Designation of Origin), which specifies that the cheese must be made with at least 85% milk from the island’s native goats (sheep’s milk is also permitted up to 15%). The cheese is unmistakable thanks to a diamond pattern on the sides, which originally came from the plaited palm leaves used as moulds. The top and bottom are protected by rubbing the rind in olive oil, paprika or ‘gofio’ – a roasted maize flour that is a speciality of the islands. The flavours and texture depends on the age of the cheese and what it has been rubbed with. They vary from pliable and milky in younger cheeses to hard and intense with a slight bitterness and pronounced spicy notes, especially if rubbed in paprika. The cheeses are exported all over the world and are an important part of Fuerteventura’s
identity. The island’s capital, Puerto del Rosario, was known as Puerto de Cabras (the Port of Goats) until the late 18th century, while the word ‘Majorero’ (also used to describe inhabitants of the island) comes from the shoes worn by goat herders. Called ‘mahos’ or ‘majos’, the sandals were made from hairy, untanned goatskin. Not to be outdone, the mountainous island of La Palma in the North West of the Canaries also has its own unique goat breed. Palmera goats have adapted over the centuries to the island’s
QUESO MAJORERO PDO, FUERTEVENTURA Milk: Whole milk (raw or pasteurised) from the Majorero goat breed with up to 15% sheep’s milk. Shape & Weight: Cylindrical; 1-6kg Age: 8 days to 6 months Flavour: Pliable and milky in younger cheeses to more intense with a slight bitterness and pronounced spicy notes in ‘curado’ cheeses. Some cheeses are rubbed in paprika or ‘gofio’ roasted maize flour, which also add flavour. Perfect pairings: Softer, younger cheeses work beautifully with medium-dry Platano Wine – a speciality, which is made by fermenting Canary Islands bananas. Or try mature cheeses with Malvasía sweet wines, plus a scattering of pistachios or almonds.
cloudier, wetter conditions, which result in permanent vegetation and rich pastures (La Palma is known as the ‘green island’ and ‘isla bonita’). Their raw milk is the key ingredient in the PDOprotected hard cheese Queso Palmero, which is smoked over almond shells, dried prickly pears or pine needles to help preserve it in the humid climate. Sold at different ages – from eight days to more than 60 days – the cheese typically has clean, milky flavours with hints of grass, hay and nuts, plus a gentle smokiness. Mature cheeses are traditionally fried and served with ‘mojo rojo’ - a sauce made with small red peppers and paprika. While goats are the queens of the milking parlours on La Palma and Fuerteventura, on Gran Canaria it is sheep that are highly prized. The island’s PDO cheese Flor de Guía specifies that at least 60% of the milk used to make it must come from ewes, specifically the rare Canary sheep breed. The cheese takes its name from the Guía area in the north of the island, where it
originates, and the use of flowers from the cardoon thistle to coagulate the milk (‘flor’ means flower in Spanish). It’s thought the cheese was first created 500 years ago by immigrant cheesemakers from Extremadura and Portugal where cardoon is often used. Different levels of thistle rennet (see panel) are used to create different styles of cheese, but the paste is typically soft and elastic with herbaceous, aromatic notes. Shepherds still graze their sheep on the diverse grasslands that cover the ‘midlands’ of Guía, Moya and Gáldar between January and July. Each has its own distinct flora with nearly a thousand plant species growing wild, which are expressed as complex flavours in the final cheese thanks to the craft of the cheesemakers. In the south of the island, the skill of Gran Canaria’s cheesemakers was put to a different kind of test in 2019, when Quesos Bolaños decided to make nine enormous raw goats’ milk cheeses to highlight the quality of Canary Islands produce. Eight of the giant cheeses weighed 135kg, but the largest of them came in at a backbreaking 174kg and was matured for 11 months before being cut up and sold across Spain. There’s much more to the Canary Islands than sun and sand. WHERE TO BUY CANARY ISLANDS CHEESES IN THE UK Delilah Fine Foods, Nottingham www.delilahfinefoods.co.uk Azahar Artisan Spanish Food, Cambridge www.azaharartisanspanishfood.com Mediteria, Surrey www.mediteria.com Degusta, Bristol www.degusta.co.uk Amazon www.amazon.es/ b?ie=UTF8&node=11529232031
QUESO PALMERO PDO, LA PALMA
FLOR DE GUÍA PDO, GRAN CANARIA
Milk: Whole raw milk from the Palmera goat breed Shape & Weight: Cylindrical; 1-15kg Age: Eight days to over 60 Flavour: Clean, milky flavours with hints of grass, hay and nuts, plus a gentle smokiness from being smoked over almond shell, Canary pine needles and dry prickly pears. The texture is semi-firm and elastic. Perfect pairings:Local wines from La Palma pair very well with the cheese, including white Malvasía wines for younger cheeses and red wines from the Matías i Torres winery for more mature cheeses. It also pairs well with local Mojo Picón Palmero – a sauce made with spicy peppers – or try cactus jam, a sweet, fragrant condiment made from the native prickly pears.
Milk: Raw or pasteurised. Minimum 60% milk from Canary Sheep. Maxmium 10% goats milk and 30% cows’ milk. Shape and weight: Cylindrical; 2-5 kg. Age: 15 days to more than 60 Flavour: There are three varieties under the PDO. Flor de Guía, which is made with 100% cardoon rennet; Queso de Media Flor de Guía, made with 50/50 cardoon and animal rennet; and Queso de Guía, made with 100% animal rennet. The cheeses typically have a bitter, salty and acidic taste with a creamy, melt in the mouth texture. Floral, animal and nutty notes can also be detected. Perfect pairings: Young fruity La Higuera Mayor wines, made with the local Listán Negro or Listán Blanco grapes work well or try a tot of ‘ron miel’ (honey rum) from the Arehucas Distillery. Sweet, honey-like Palm Tree Syrup is also a popular accompaniment.
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SHOP TALK IF I’D KNOWN THEN WHAT I KNOW NOW... DOM PULSFORD, co-founder, Two Belly, Bristol
The name Two Belly isn’t – as many people assume – about eating in excess. It’s about two people (me and my wife, Lara) pursuing a life in food and drink. When we met, Lara was in beer sales and I was managing The White Horse in Parsons Green. We fell in love with one another and with the idea of embarking on a joint venture involving artisanal beer and cheese. I did the Retail Ready course and Level 1 of the Academy of Cheese with the Guild of Fine Food. Emboldened by their encouragement, I handed in my notice and, in late 2017, went for a seasonal job at Neal’s Yard Dairy. I was completely open about what I wanted to do. I immersed myself in cheese and did as many extra shifts as I could. By this point, we had found a site. It was a ‘first fix’ with A1, A2 and A3 shop use, so perfect. It had previously been an off licence, which stood us in good stead for what we were planning to do. Our vision was to combine the best UK farmhouse cheese with the best beers from Bristol, the UK and abroad (the Belgians make some fantastic beer for cheese) in a retail setting with an eat-in offer. We installed a big sharing table where people could sit and eat cheeseboards and toasties, and held tasting events, which made us a really popular and exciting venue. Obviously, the pandemic forced us to change tack. It accelerated the development of our online shop and, by the third lockdown, we had completely shifted to a retail model. We put in extra shelves in place of the sharing table and expanded our range. We still do our takeaway toasties, as our regulars would object if we stopped those! This period taught us that there is no point in sticking to a plan if it’s not working. We started out focusing on British cheese but extended this to include French and Swiss cheeses in response to customer demand. Also, at the start, we stocked five or six natural wines; now we sell upwards of 80. We see all of these changes as a positive evolution. Going forward, we are going to stick to retail on this site. We know our hospitality format works, but these premises are too small to do both. In future, we hope to launch something akin to what we were doing originally – a beer and cheese bar – at a different location. In the midst of the pandemic, our bread supplier opened a food shop on the opposite side of Bristol and asked us to run the cheese counter. It’s been a good way to test our ability to run a second site. We have learned that it is achievable and it helps that we already have a name in Bristol, but we are still having to build loyalty from scratch. It is almost like starting another business in terms of the time and effort it requires. Interview: Lynda Searby Photography: Stuart Key
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CONFESSIONS OF A DELI OWNER ANONYMOUS TALES FROM BEHIND THE COUNTER OK, BE HONEST. Who is a tad nervous about reopening their café or bistro or restaurant? It all feels a bit like a first date. What do I wear? Will they show up? Will they remember me at all? My covers are all inside – no outside space at all – so the glorious 12th April wasn’t significant. 17th May, that’s the big one. There are a few cafés near me. One just down the hill has tables outside. Nice view with lots of paninis and coke in cans – we obviously are a better class of place and have coke in bottles. His five wooden picnic bench-tables were packed right through the 12th, and I was very envious. I feel he’s got an unfair advantage, starting a month ahead of me. The pavement outside my shop would get blocked by one person stopping to check their phone. We are preparing to open outdoors as I write this, though. The town council in all its wisdom has been closing the high street every Saturday over the last year. Stopping the traffic is a subject that goes on and off the table like a five-year-old’s bag of marbles. Traders are always against – we like the parking and easy access for out-of-town customers. Residents all love it. They want to
MODEL RETAILING Hello, Mr Deli. Now that COVID’s all gone, it’s ok if I bring in my kids and dogs again, isn’t it?
New team, new year, new challenge. But an older, crankier and very out-of-practice me. wander around holding hands with their partners, over-seeing their children playing football against the doors of evil, rich profiteering shopkeepers. That said, we are going to brave four Saturdays to train up in advance of 17th May. We used to do periodic festival-type events in the town where we put on café extensions somewhere outside. I’d sit with our chef and do a special menu, which usually means two slightly larger, riskier dishes (often it’s my infamous cassoulet that has been mentioned before in this
column), plus lots of easy-to-eat, kid-friendly, posh-ingredient staples. Give them alliterative names, like ‘Our Marvelous Mozz-Balls Salad’ or ‘Toast of the Town Toasties’, and off you go! But that was a long time ago and I’m feeling the stage fright. The last time we gassed up the kitchen was a while back, and many of my team have moved on or are so out of practice we are having a re-training day just for the till. We need to re-launder all the aprons, get new napkins, sort the name badges, check the tea towels, order in drinks, count the cutlery, polish the glasses. And somebody must check the most important member of the team, the dishwasher, is still working after its year off. Do we re-heat classic dishes or do something funky for the grand re-opening? I think I’ll announce on Facebook that it will be Prosecco from Aldi (sorry, Champagne Brunch) for the first three tables that book. It’s going to be hard. New team, new year, new challenge. But an older, crankier and very out-ofpractice me. I want to be profitable again, though. So, time to iron my apron and hit the floor. Good luck everyone.
SOLVING EVERYDAY SHOPKEEPING DILEMMAS. IN MINIATURE. I’ve had one of my jabs. Serve me.
Erm
I can’t tell you how good it is to be in here and not wearing a mask, Mr Deli.
No, serve me. I’ll be vaccinated this time next week
Erm
FFD says: As the Government’s ‘roadmap’ progresses and restrictions are lifted, you should be expecting more people in store – and they’ll be very keen to get back to normal. Don’t feel pressured, though. If you want to keep trading with some COVID rules (like social distancing or limiting numbers on the shop floor), then just make sure your customers know. They’ll understand and the exuberance will ease up as the year goes on. editorial@gff.co.uk With kind permission of Geobra Brandstätter Stiftung & Co. KG, Germany. PLAYMOBIL is a registered trademark of Geobra Brandstätter Stiftung & Co. KG, for which also the displayed PLAYMOBIL toy figures are protected.
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SHOP TALK
THE DELI DOCTOR Paul Thomas Technical and regulatory advice from the Guild’s deli helpline Q: How often do I need to perform refrigerator temperature checks?
A: Some foods, either marked as “keep refrigerated”, or ready-to-eat foods bearing a “use by” are stored below 8°C to keep them safe. Chill-holding tolerance periods are defined in legislation. Foods may be held outside of temperature control (above 8°C) for a single period of no more than four hours. In the event of equipment malfunction, food business operators can defend themselves from enforcement action where the loss of temperature control is for a limited period consistent with food safety. The Food Standards Agency’s (FSA) guidance on temperature control states: “In normal circumstances, a single limited period of up to two hours outside temperature control is unlikely to be questioned. For longer periods, some justification and a hazard analysis based on the HACCP principles may be expected.” A target temperature of 5°C is recommended in the guidance to ensure that legal requirements are met. Obviously, checking fridge temperatures
Expert’s eye INSIGHT6’S RICHARD KNIGHT DISCUSSES HOW COVID HAS COVERED FOR POOR CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE In March last year when the pandemic hit, it was quite understandable that service levels would fall while businesses re-adjusted. However, many major brands are still using COVID as their reason for service not being what it was. Can this be justified? Let’s take a popular TV subscription service. Customers will have gone up, production costs down and, yet, just try speaking to one of their customer service team on the phone! Meanwhile, plenty of big retailers are taking orders and receiving payment, only to inform customers that it will be months before their purchase is in stock. And any returns have been handled with similar delays, requiring a pick-up to be completed before issuing a refund. Plenty of household names have been quick to take the money but slow at handing it back. Let’s be honest, the COVID excuse is wearing thin and anyone hiding behind it needs to change their messaging. If you have not sorted out your customer journey maps over the last 12 months,
WHAT’S TRENDING
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every two hours may be practically impossible for food businesses. There is, however, a greater chance that food may need to be rejected in the event of refrigerator malfunction where it is not possible to determine the length of time that the food was outside of temperature control. Temperature checks at least once per day, as recommended in the FSA’s Safer Foods Better Business pack, help businesses to document food safety management. More frequent checks – such as at the start and end of shift – allow for faster identification of upward trends in temperature and possible equipment failure. Alternatively, a minimum-maximum thermometer will record the highest and lowest temperatures since the last check, while a data logger can evidence the duration for which foods were above 8°C following a breakdown. The frequency of checks should be increased where increasing temperatures indicate potential fridge malfunction. Dairy and food safety specialist Paul Thomas runs the Guild’s e-helpline for retailers with technical or regulatory queries. Send your questions to myguild@gff.co.uk
then do you deserve any loyalty? Respect the fact that some customers may want to talk. Now, the vast majority of independent retailers know this and their stores have been thriving during a tough trading time with a brand of customer service that is more personal than the bigger boys offer up. But it doesn’t hurt to look at how larger businesses and brands have been letting customers down, especially with many retailers and producers
The COVID excuse is wearing thin and anyone hiding behind it needs to change their messaging selling to consumers online. Make sure you are collecting feedback data that reflects the full spectrum of customer experience. In the majority of cases, you might have glowing testimonials. But what about the customers who didn’t get what they were looking for on the website? Whose delivery didn’t arrive? Who was unhappy with their trip to your shop? Don’t follow the big business example, make your own when it comes to customer experience.
For more advice on how to improve customer experience visit insight6.com 14
May 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 4
NICK BAINES KEEPS YOU UP TO DATE WITH THE NEWEST DISHES, FLAVOURS AND INNOVATIONS IN FOOD & DRINK
Foods may be held outside of temperature control (above 8°C) for no more than four hours
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1 Birria Regional Mexican cuisine continues its upward trajectory despite the hospitality derailment of COVID-19. Right now, it’s a slow-simmered stew that’s gaining the most momentum. Birria is a dish from northern Mexico usually featuring beef, lamb or goat. The spiced mixture is ladled into tortillas but served alongside a bowl of the remaining stew – in which the tacos are ceremoniously dunked prior to eating. TikTok has been hailed as a driving force for birria in the US, where food trucks like New York’s Birria-Landia are serving fans in droves. Here in the UK, Manchester’s Northern Quarter is home to the Birria Brothers, while London has several fly-by-night birria taco slingers gaining traction via Instagram. 2 Reusable spirits pouches Shipping glass bottles has never been straightforward, but a few alcohol brands are pioneering a new idea that makes postage cheaper and easier. Direct-toconsumer subscription service Whisky-Me deliver drams of single malt whisky in a small, pocketsize pouch that’s strong, flexible and stable, meaning no taint to the contents inside. Norfolk’s Bullard’s Spirits has also adopted the pouch approach, so customers can refill their bottles when running low. One of the great advantages of the format is that it is completely letterbox friendly, so drinks can be delivered when no one is home. Both brands are also operating a recycling service for the pouches. 3 Switchel A popular Prohibition-era tonic, switchel is an old American classic that’s enjoying a new-found affection as an alcohol alternative. The gluten-free drink is traditionally made with apple cider vinegar, ginger and honey and is being taken into a sparkling long drink direction by brands like Zingi Bear. Remedy is also in on the switchel action with versions made with blood orange and tropical fruits. Meanwhile, London’s Mother Root has created a concentrated switchel that can be watered down with tonic water or used in mocktails.
NEW
MAKE TIME FO R YO U R S E L F Take a moment to savour the signature crunch of Peter’s Yard in a new savoury snack. Crafted from our 16-hour fermented sourdough, our Bites are seasoned with all-natural ingredients for a delicious hand-baked snack with 60% less fat than potato crisps.
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CHEESEWIRE
news & views from the cheese counter
Makers facing up to shortages and surpluses of hard cheeses By Patrick McGuigan
Disruption to hard cheese production when the coronavirus pandemic hit last year is only being felt now as cheeses reach maturity – with some producers running short of stock and others facing a surplus. Soft cheesemakers were immediately thrown into crisis during the first lockdown because of the short shelf lives of their products, but there has been a delayed impact for producers of aged cheeses, who are only now feeling the effects of decisions taken a year ago. Holden Farm Dairy in Wales stopped production of
its Hafod cheddar in April and May last year when restaurants closed, but consequently has no cheese to sell now, just as it reopens. “Here we are a year later in a ‘hungry gap’ with no cheese available as we wait for summer 2020 cheese to mature,” said the company on Instagram. “Our Hafod customers have shown positivity and resilience, and now we are also grateful for their patience and understanding.” At Isle of Mull Cheddar, coowner Brendan Reade is facing the opposite problem. “We’re bulging at the seams in the cheese store,” he said. “There’s nowhere else for the milk to
Some companies, like Kent’s Winterdale chose to reduce hard cheese production last year and now have less available to sell
go on Mull, so it has gone into cheese. “No-one was furloughed. We continued milking cows and making cheese even when orders have dropped significantly during lockdowns. “Consequently, the age profile of our cheese is more like 18 months rather than 12 months. Cashflow has slowed down during this period. At a time when we had committed to major investment, we are starting to feel the pinch. “Having cheese maturing in the cellar for longer is a strain, but the upside is that it is tasting great. With the lockdown being eased, we’re hopeful sales will pick up.” Kent-based Winterdale Cheesemakers was forced to pour away 5,000 litres of milk during the first lockdown and significantly cut production of its raw milk cheddar, which owner Robin Betts said could lead to shortages. “Lockdowns have made planning difficult when you are making a cheese that won’t be ready for a year. It’s really opened our eyes that we need more flexibility in the business” To this end, the company has invested in a pasteuriser and bottling line to sell bottled milk, cream and butter under the new Kent Downs Dairy brand.
NEWS IN BRIEF Devon cheddar-maker Quicke’s has launched a new flavour map for people to fully appreciate cheese. The Flavour Mapping Project has been undertaken to chart the full tasting journey, from initial taste to mid-taste to aftertaste, providing a simple tool for cheese lovers to record their eating experience. A new monthly cheese market will launch in West London in May. The first Chiswick Cheese Market will be on 16th May at The Old Market Place, with more than 20 cheesemakers and mongers taking stalls. A new waxed cloth wrapping for food is targeting cheesemongers with larger sizes that can be used behind the counter as a replacement for clingfilm. WaxWrap, which is made from organic cotton cloth coated in a mixture of beeswax, pine resin and jojoba oil, is available in rolls up to 2m in length.
The Cheese Barge, a floating restaurant dedicated to cheese, opens this month in the Paddington Basin. The brainchild of Mathew Carver, who founded cheese conveyor belt restaurant Pick & Cheese, the double-decker barge will serve seasonal dishes that champion British cheeses, such as St Andrews Cheddar with green kimchi, curried Quicke’s Cheddar curds, and half a kilo of baked Baron Bigod. thecheesebar.com
THREE WAYS WITH...
Durrus
Produced in West Cork by Irish cheese pioneer Jeffa Gill and her daughter Sarah Hennessy, Durrus is a soft, elastic washed-rind cheese made from pasteurised cows’ milk. Aged for 6-10 weeks, the cheese has a pretty pink exterior with aromas of soil and hay, while the bulging paste is sweet and milky, with meaty flavours from the rind in more mature cheeses Whiskey Clonakilty Double Oak is a blended whiskey made by the Clonakilty Distillery in Cork, which is aged in bourbon casks and finished in American oak. It’s clean and fresh with lovely grassy and apple aromas, plus spicy milk chocolate notes on the palate. These creamier, vanilla flavours dovetail with the buttery cheese, which also has a subtle cocoa note from the rind. Pickles Durrus is a rich, earthy cheese with a yielding texture, particularly when it has been aged and broken down. It calls for an accompaniment with acidity and crunch, such as cornichons and pickled silverskin onions. Try Bread & Butter Pickles from Crooked Pickle Co – pickled cucumber and onions with added spices, which won two stars at last year’s Greate Taste Awards. Their bite and crunch send a bolt of energy through the cheese. Raclette Durrus’s elastic texture makes it an absolute dream to melt. Belfast cheese shop Indie Füde recommends using it to make higher-level cheese on toast or for melting over potatoes in an Irish take on raclette. The rind becomes more fragrant and meaty in flavour when it’s heated, while the paste blisters and caramelises under the grill, making it even sweeter. Vol.22 Issue 4 | May 2021
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CHEESEWIRE
news & views from the cheese counter
Cyprus gains PDO for Halloumi but producers are in a quandary
BEHIND THE COUNTER TIPS OF THE TRADE
Halloumi finally secured Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status last month after years of lobbying by the Cypriot government, but the news was greeted with dismay by producers who say it will severely limit the amount of cheese they can make. Cypriot president Nicos Anastasiades hailed the decision by the European Commission to award PDO status to the cheese as “a milestone day for halloumi and our country”. But dairy groups claimed the country had shot itself in the foot with the new regulations, arguing there was not enough milk produced on the island to meet the specification that halloumi must be made with at least 51% goat and sheep’s milk. The Pan Cyprian Organisation of Cattle Breeders said there was a shortage of milk from goats and sheep, while huge quantities of the cows’ milk that was used in the
Hmioannou
By Patrick McGuigan
The PDO secured for Halloumi gives the cheese added protection against imitators but the new rules might also hamstring legitimate producers
past will now go unused. It also raised concerns that low-fat and flavoured halloumi are not covered by the PDO, which means they could be made outside Cyprus. The Cyprus Dairy Producers Association estimated that the shortage of goat and sheep’s milk could mean halloumi sales fall from €300m a year to €90m. “These losses will lead to the destruction of the entire dairy industry, livestock and
agriculture at a huge cost to the local economy,” it said in a statement. Around 40% of Cyprus’ halloumi production is exported to the UK. Following Brexit, the new PDO is not recognised under UK law and Cyprus would have to apply for protection under the new UK Geographical Indication scheme. However, the cheese is still protected by a trademark, which specifies it must be made in Cyprus.
Ragstone
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photovoltaic solar panels. Heat requirements are also met from hot water solar panels and a customised furnace burning locally sourced wood. How is it made? The goat’s milk for Ragstone is supplied by neighbours Andrew and Diane Goodwin and their small flock of 50/50 Toggenburg/ Saanan goats. The milk is pasteurised and cheesemaking begins with
Grate in Newcastle proves that fitting out a cheese shop doesn’t have to follow a strict design plan. Chipboard walls and reclaimed furniture combine to create an eye-catching space, but owner Moz Murphy says this was created as much by budget constraints as it was by bold interior design vision. “The builder put up chipboard when we first got in, while we worked out what we wanted to do, but a friend said it looked like grated cheese so we stuck with it,” she says. “I like its texture and that you can easily screw things into it, plus it gives the shop a warm inviting glow at night.” A reclaimed Belfast sink held up by bedposts found in a skip and a desk made from reclaimed wood offcuts add to the character, while Murphy re-uses packaging to good effect. Wooden boxes for soft cheese are re-purposed as merchandising units and Baron Bigod boxes were turned into decorative lights at Christmas. “People comment on the look of the shop all the time,” she says. “It’s not slick, so people find it welcoming.” gratenewcastle.co.uk
Appearance & texture: The cheese has a creamywhite rind, pure white interior and the texture is dense, smooth and fudgey – getting more liquid as it matures. It has savoury, mushroom flavours with lactic lemon notes.
CHEESE IN PROFILE with
What’s the story? Ragstone is a matured goats cheese log, hand-made by Charlie Westhead and his small team at Neal’s Yard Creamery. The creamery was set up in 1996 when Charlie (who had previously worked as a cheesemonger at Neal’s Yard Dairy before moving into cheesemaking) moved to Dorstone in rural Herefordshire. Production is powered by electricity generated by the company’s windmill and
Moz Murphy, Grate, Newcastle
the addition of traditional kid rennet. Once the curds are formed, they are handladled into tube-shaped moulds. It is a slow, gentle process ensuring smooth and complex cheeses. The bloomy-white rind forms as the cheeses mature, for 2-4 weeks.
Variations: There are two sizes available: the popular 200g log and the larger 600g cutting cheese. Cheesemonger tip: The individual 200g
logs are perfect for the multi-deck as well as the serveover counter. Merchandise it alongside sticky fig relish, damson jam or blossom honey. Recommend serving it with a Herefordshire perry. Chef’s recommendation: Select the young cheeses that have a dense and fudge-like texture. These will be ideal for slicing, and you can envelop it in puff pastry with a sprig of fresh thyme before baking for delicious warm goat’s cheese tarts. Serve with a chilled Sancerre.
While traditional classroom courses are suspended due to the COVID-19, delegates can still sign up to Academy of Cheese Level 1 & 2 courses online as self-study eLearning, or interactive virtual classroom courses. academyofcheese.org
AN ANCIENT RECIPE
WITHOUT GLUTEN OR LACTOSE. TALK ABOUT FORWARD THINKING.
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Recipe fr om our coo kbook Embellish with Relis h!
A very hard 18-month farmhouse cheese which has a distinct nuttiness in flavour and made with vegetarian rennet.
www.hawksheadrelish.com
www.lyburnfarm.co.uk 01794 399982
W: www.keenscheddar.co.uk T: 01963 32286 20
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CHEESEWIRE
news and views from the cheese counter
I rail against the whole specialist cheesemaker thing
Breaking the mould Highland Fine Cheeses has enjoyed success with a range of powerful and sometimes controversial cheeses By Patrick McGuigan
WHEN RORY STONE joined the family business in 1994, the traditional Scottish cheese Caboc accounted for around 95% of sales. Made by fermenting double cream for up to six months, before it is drained and formed into oat-rolled logs, legend has it that Caboc was first made on the Isle of Skye in the 15th century by a chieftain’s daughter who was an ancestor of Stone’s mother. It’s a romantic tale, but it has done little to aid the cheese’s fortunes. Highland Fine Cheeses, based in Tain, Ross-shire, is the last remaining producer of Caboc in the world, but the cheese only accounts for 5% of sales today, with shoppers understandably wary of its bracing 75% fat content. “I always feel with Caboc that one decent cold snap could write off 99% of the customer base,” jokes Stone. “They’ve eaten that much of it that they’ve already had triple heart bypasses.” As Caboc has declined, it has been usurped by newer cheeses that owe more to European cheesemakers than the daughters of Scottish chieftains. Strathdon Blue, a soft, creamy cows’ milk blue, is the company’s best-seller, closely followed by other Continental-style cheeses, such as Blue Murder and Morangie Brie. “We’ve got a mouldy old dairy, so I thought we should focus on mouldy cheeses,” says Stone. “My heart is with washed rinds, moulds, and oozy, gooey, flavours. That’s where I love to be on a cheeseboard.” According to Stone, the British public is in the same place as him, preferring strongly flavoured Continental styles over traditional
British cheeses. Highland Fine Cheeses saw a big surge in retail sales during the pandemic, which helped offset a drop in hospitality orders. Overall sales are down for the year, but not by much after a 15% increase at Christmas, he says. “People are travelling and experiencing different tastes. There’s a reason that territorials are struggling; it’s because they don’t have a huge amount of flavour. “New cheesemakers often want to use pint starters and unpasteurised milk and make traditional cheeses that used to be produced in their shire. But if the Model T Ford was perfect, we’d all still be driving it. I rail against the whole specialist cheesemaker thing. It’s at risk of becoming too evangelical and ethereal.” This is a provocative statement in the tight-knit cheese world but is typical of Stone, who is not afraid to be contentious – a policy that sometimes lands him in trouble. When the company launched two washed-rind cheeses three years ago, their names were certainly controversial, if not outright offensive. Minger, inspired by Epoisses, and the semi-hard Fat Cow caused something of a scandal with some retailers refusing to stock them because of their names – a story that ended up being reported in The Times. Stone says that he wasn’t trying to be offensive. “I wanted to de-Scotify the brand and take all the ‘bens’, ‘glens’ and ‘straths’ out of it. ‘Minger’ is Scottish slang for a smelly little thing, and it’s a smelly little orange cheese. And Fat Cow was originally going to be Holy Cow because it had holes in, but someone had registered the name. There was no real sense behind that one.” Stone admits with a chuckle that they were “appalling name choices”, but he doesn’t seem too unhappy about all the publicity. “My sense is people will get over it and like the cheeses, so keep buying them,” he says. “My humour is sometimes mildly offensive. I’ve always been trying to do things slightly differently.” hf-cheeses.com
CROSS
SECTION
Strathdon Blue 1
Strathdon Blue was originally produced by the Milk Marketing Board in Aberdeen, but the recipe and equipment for the cheese were bought by Highland Fine Cheeses in the 1980s when Milk Marketing Board sites were sold off.
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The cheese is made with pasteurised cows’ milk, which comes from three farms: Sibster, near Wick; Thrumster, which has a herd of organic Jersey cows; and Rootfield on the Black Isle which is converting to Ayrshire cows. The milk is set with vegetarian rennet and the curd cut into 1cm pieces, but it is not scalded. After moulding, the cheeses are dry salted and aged for around 10 weeks.
There’s an even spread of blue veins and pockets in the soft paste, while the flavour is sweet, spicy and minerally.
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World Cheese Awards will take place in Oviedo, Spain as part of the Asturias Paraíso Natural International Cheese Festival from the 3-6 November 2021 KEY DATES 2021: Open for entry: 23 August Closed for entry: 23 September Judging: 3 November
ORGANISERS
MAIN SPONSORS WCA 2021-22
www.gff.co.uk/wca @guildoffinefood #worldcheeseawards
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Vol.22 Issue 4 | May 2021
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NANA LILY’S PUDDINGS ARE NOT JUST FOR CHRISTMAS!
Here at Nana Lily’s we are known for using traditional family recipes and adding a modern twist. Proudly introducing new sponge puddings to our range, which are all made in small batches with exceptionally delicious sauces. The 290g puddings with luxurious packaging makes the perfect addition to any dinner party or celebration. To be enjoyed on their own or with cream, ice cream or custard. Microwaveable for ease.
Call today to place your order 01905 745 437 | www.nanalilys.co.uK 24
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CUT&DRIED
making more of British & Continental charcuterie
Pepperoni’s usually quite a fine mince but we’ve done ours on a coarser setting
Pizza by pizza Somerset Charcuterie had to switch over to a retail model last year after losing the key foodservice market. Now, as that sector returns, it might just have the ideal new product. By Michael Lane
DURING THE PANDEMIC, baking and home improvements have both increased in popularity. Like so many others with extra time on their hands, Somerset Charcuterie’s Andy Venn has been perfecting his dough-making and he’s even installed a pizza oven in the back garden. That’s not to say he and co-founder James Simpson haven’t been busy mitigating the loss of their core revenue – foodservice and farmers’ markets. But Venn’s pursuits have fuelled a bit of NPD that reflects how their business model has changed after a turbulent 12 months. It also indicates how they will proceed. Since January, Venn has been tweaking the recipe for Somerset Charcuterie’s take on pepperoni and he’s now ready to launch it. He says the product is ideal for both the retail customers picked up during the pandemic, as well as the consumers the company has been selling to directly via its website. It’s also pretty good timing given the re-emergence of foodservice. “Certainly pizzas are high on lists at home, in gastropubs and with street food vendors,” Venn tells FFD. “I’ve got a couple of retail outlets that want to stock the pepperoni already. They’ve found, as we have, that lots of people are wanting to buy things to make pizzas.” Don’t think this new line hasn’t been carefully considered by the North Somerset producer, though. “I made pepperoni a long time ago, probably six years ago, when we were setting up and going
through various products that we might want to make,” says Venn. “And it was something we didn’t pursue because it’s fairly common in the market, with cheap imports in the multiples.” With a new perspective though, Venn trialled four different versions of the sausage, experimenting with the ratio of beef to pork, combinations of herbs and spices, and different mincing processes. “Pepperoni’s usually quite a tight bind and a fine mince, which is what you’d expect to have on your pizza, but we’ve done it on a coarser setting to see how that changed the bind and the eating.” The result is 25% grass-fed beef with the rest being free-range rare-breed pork. When he speaks to FFD, Venn is about to begin making the first commercial batch. It will be available in a variety of formats, both whole and pre-sliced, to satisfy what has become quite a diverse customer base. When the first lockdown was announced in March 2020, Venn says Somerset Charcuterie feared the worst. “Turnover was 40-50% foodservice and around 40% farmers’ markets and food festivals, so a good 80% of the business closed overnight.” The company managed to offset these losses by upgrading its consumer-facing website and supplying a couple of online food box providers. Sales to delis and farm shops have also increased. “We haven’t made tonnes of money but it feels like a success that we’ve switched over. The model changed pretty quickly but those were the opportunities that arose. We’ve certainly got a new feather in our cap.” Venn adds that more retailers have been contacting him to discuss what products to list, with interest in both grab-and-go packs and whole cuts and salamis for their deli counters. The producer is now tentatively waiting to see whether that foodservice revenue returns to its previous levels. somersetcharcuterie.com
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Somerset Charcuterie pepperoni 1
This new salami has been in development since January, with Somerset Charcuterie settling on a recipe that is 25% grass-fed beef, supplementing its customary free-range rarebreed pork.
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It will be available in 60g sliced packs for retail and 100g sliced packs for chefs, as well as shorter-life 500g tubs of sliced product that would suit busy foodservice operations for one sitting. Customers can also buy whole 550g skinless sausages for slicing in the kitchen or on the counter.
The pepperoni joins a core line-up of four salamis, chorizo, whole muscle cuts and ‘poker’ salami sticks. It can be ordered direct from Somerset Charcuterie or wholesalers, including Forest Produce, Harvey & Brockless, Longman’s Cheese and Caterfood.
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May 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 4
PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
Damask Rose Buds & Lemon Verbena
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Kykeon (Traditional)
Kykeon (Modern) & Chamomile
Nazani Tea three principles (luxury, integrity and elegance), the company’s ethos is to provide consumers with a truly unique herbal infusion offering, based on ethical sourcing, health and wellness, and transparency, giving herbal infusions the same love and care usually reserved for the finest coffees and loose-leaf teas.
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Ready for the future of tea?
With consumers becoming ever more discerning about what’s in their cup and how it got there, Nazani Tea explains how it can help you keep your herbal infusion offering up to date OVER THE PAST few years, a couple of trends have become very apparent – not just within the tea industry, but further afield in the press. The secret is out. Major players within the market have reported a slump in sales of black tea and teabags due to traditional tea drinkers being a dying breed. The consumers of tomorrow are taking more of a wholesome approach to tea drinking. Not only that but they are opting for herbal infusions over the standard cuppa. Being more ethical In the age of awareness and the ‘conscious consumer’, people’s tea consumption habits are based more and more on the ethical sourcing and transparency of what they buy. Are suppliers taking care of their teas and the environment? Who picks and processes the teas? When were the teas harvested? Consumers want to be
a part of the journey from seed to cup, and appreciate naturally grown and processed teas and herbals. ‘Wildcrafted’ and ‘biodynamic’ are terms being used more and more within the industry, as consumers demand natural, sustainable and honest speciality teas and herbals. “Consumers are thinking twice before grabbing their standard caffeinated tea bag, simply because it is ‘tea’,” says Nazani Tea’s founder Arleen Ouzounian. “People’s consumption is not a given, it is a conscious decisionmaking process. Convenience and homogeneity are no longer the determining factors for tea buying, which is one of the reasons for the drop in sales. Finally, the tea industry may enjoy the same revolution as coffee once did.” Nazani Tea aims to provide consumers with an elevated and emotive tea experience. Based on
WHAT NAZANI TEA’S CUSTOMERS SAY
“Nazani Tea is the perfect 5* tea experience for our 5* spa. Besides the well-being aspects of this tea experience, the aesthetic experience is food for the soul and eyes! Most beautiful teas ever!” Taffryn Kinsey, spa director, Four Seasons London Park Lane “Nazani’s Tea Wild Mountain Mint is the best mint I have ever tasted.” Guillaume Glipa, founder & coowner, Louie Restaurant
Herbal infusions’ popularity Along with the decline of the standard black tea bag, another trend which has not gone unnoticed is the massive growth in herbal infusion sales. In fact, one particular major player owes its recent sales growth entirely to launching a cold brew herbal infusions range. And another household black-tea-only brand has taken the plunge with launching a brand new herbal range. “The caffeine-free lifestyle is growing year on year, with consumers increasingly becoming functionality driven and looking for health benefits such as antioxidants, detox/purifying, immune boosting, calming and energising,” says Ouzounian. “Camellia sinensis (tea) cannot provide all these health benefits alone, and so consumers are splurging on herbal brews.” Nazani Tea is working to resurrect ancient herbal infusions and with a focus on bringing innovative and new concepts to the market, including a new type of mint, a world-first herbal infusion (red amaranth), unique cocoa blends and colourchanging wildcrafted brews. Commissioning harvests and working with small farming families across the world ensures freshness and traceability, which inspires consumers and staff alike. Handpicked, altitude-grown and foraged, are all words which appear in Nazani Tea’s vocabulary, and they’re proud of it. Partner with Nazani Tea, says Ouzounian, and partner with the future. nazanitea.com
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CATEGORY FOCUS
Have you had your break today? Whether you’re looking for new hot drinks or something colder, our product roundup covers the full gamut of liquid refreshment. Soft drinks coverage starts on page 30. And for the complete tea time, we take a look at what’s new in home-baking (page 33) and cakes & puddings (page 34). Compiled by Lynda Searby
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tea & coffee Cafepod Coffee Co says it used consumer insights into evolving coffee tastes and “coffee moments” throughout the day to inform the development of its two new blends. The SW18 Daily Grind Blend and Brunch Blend are available in Nespressocompatible pods, whole bean or ground formats all in new-look livery. RRP from £3 for 10 pods, £4.50 for 200g. cafepod.com
Black Hill, the latest blend from Dark Woods Coffee, has been specifically created for capsules. By blending speciality grade Arabicas with an Indian Robusta from the Harley Estate and tailoring the roast profile for pod brewing, Dark Woods says it has produced a rich and full-bodied espresso with notes of caramel, hazelnut and chocolate. RRP £5.95 for 10 capsules. darkwoodscoffee.co.uk
Land Girls is a new coffee brand on a mission to celebrate inspirational women in farming. Its first two products are Fairtrade coffees grown by female grower co-operatives in Indonesia and South America. Both are available in bean and ground format, with RRPs of £8.95 (Sumatran) and £8.50 (Peruvian) for 250g. land-girls.co.uk
Retailers looking for gifting lines for tea drinkers should check out the Teaspec Lazy Go Travel Tumbler. This portable solution features a double-layered glass wall – not plastic – and a built in strainer to separate tea leaves from tea without over-steeping. It also comes with a sleeve and foil-lined quilted carrier to keep it warm. RRP £40. teaspec.com
After planting 1,150 Camellia sinensis v. sinensis tea bushes in 2016, Buittle Tea Garden is starting to produce limited quantities of peony tea made by processing the fine tips from the tea bushes. The Scottish tea garden sells a white and a rose version (mixed with scented rose petals) with an RRP of £15 (trade price £7.50) for 15g. buittleteagarden.co.uk
Bellevue Tea’s new tea bag range is sustainable through and through. The tea bag and inner pouch are made from biodegradable plant starch and wood pulp, while the packets are sustainably sourced cardboard printed with vegetable-based inks. There are four lines: Earl Grey, Scottish Blend, Peppermint and Sencha Green. RRP £19.95 for a pack of 100 bags. bellevue-tea.co.uk
Tea India promises to take tea drinkers on “an exotic journey to the tea gardens of India” with its new Regional Single-Estate range. The four new blends of regional teas – Nilgiri, Darjeeling, Assam and Kashmiri Kahwa – launch this month. RRP £3.29. teaindia.co.uk
Taylors of Harrogate has designed a roast specifically for making lattes. Described as a “smooth roast with hints of chocolate and caramel”, Latte Ground Coffee is marketed under the company’s ‘Especially For’ umbrella, which also includes Cafetière and Espresso blends. RRP £3.79. taylorsofharrogate.co.uk
Last month saw Mazawattee Tea release a high-grown loose leaf black from the Nilgiri Hills of South India. This Rainforest Alliance Certified tea is copper coloured in the cup and has a distinct malty character. RRP £6.99 for 100g. mazawattee-tea.com
>> Easy José has launched a limited-edition coffee grown by Dalia Casancho, a member of the Mayni indigenous community in the Amazon. The coffee is milled and dried with the sugary juice of the coffee cherry, producing a sweet, complex cup. José pays Dalia 55% higher than Fairtrade standards and packs the coffee in True Bio bags. RRP from £10.50 for 250g. easyjosecoffee.co.uk
With an RRP of £8.95, OMGTea’s new sachet packs of Grade AAA Organic Matcha are pitched as the ideal entry product for the matcha green tea category. The new format contains 10 single-serving sachets of this high-grade organic, ceremonial tea. OMGTea AAA matcha is made from shade-grown leaves stone-ground to a fine powder. omgteas.co.uk
Whole-leaf specialist Tea People has introduced four new blends featuring ingredients selected for their taste and health properties. These include Immunity – an on-trend blend containing vitamin C, zinc and herbs reputed to stimulate the immune system, and Lemon & Ginger – a twist on a classic that uses vitamin C-rich amla (Indian gooseberries) to match the tart lemons. teapeople.co.uk
LuLin Teas has drawn on its blending experience to develop a range of natural teas in ecopackaging. Featuring flavours like Strawberry & Cream and French Vanilla black teas, Lemon & Lime and Tropical green teas and Orange Earl Grey rooibos tea, the range is available in bio-teabag boxes (RRP £4.25-5.95 for 15 XL bags) and loose leaf compostable pouches. lulin-teas.com
Blue Goose has launched four coffees in compostable pods. Organic Peruvian is a full bodied, smooth Arabica; Blue Goose Lungo blends coffees from El Salvador and Brazil; Ethiopian Yirgacheffe is grown as “garden coffee” in small lots; and Organic Swiss Water Decaf is 100% chemical-free. All four have an RRP of £5.50 for a carton of 10 pods. bluegoose.coffee
Rare Tea Company has treated its entire loose leaf retail range to new livery, inspired by the V&A Museum, and added two new teas. The 15-strong line-up now includes Sikkin Second Flush Muscatel Black Tea (RRP £11.49 for a 50g tin) and Himalayan Ginger & Lemongrass (RRP £7.49 for a 30g tin). rareteacompany.com
Herbal tea specialist Heath & Heather describes its new Organic Morning Time infusion as a “beautifully bright and refreshing botanical morning tea”. Combining ginseng root and Amazonian guarana with rosehip, spearmint and lemongrass, it has an RRP of £2.99 for 20 bags. heathandheather.co.uk
London-based Ace Tea has added four new teas to its collection. Featuring a design that is carried across the full range, Afternoon Tea, Pure Green Tea, Pure Camomile and Pure Nettle all come in packs of 15 stockings. RRPs between £5.95 and £6.50. acetealondon.com
Good & Proper Tea has relaunched its loose leaf teas in plastic-free packaging. Like the brand’s tea bag cartons, its loose leaf teas make use of the wood pulp Natureflex with its plastic-like properties for the inner bag, and a recyclable cardboard outer carton. goodandpropertea.com
SeaMoor Coffee, a coffee roastery established in April 2020, has just launched two blends that reflect its Peak District location. Limestone is a lightly roasted filter blend, named after the green hills and limestone drystone walls of the White Peak, and Gritstone is a slightly darker blend designed for espresso, and named after the gritstone outcrops and peaty moorland of the Dark Peak. Both are seasonally changing, balanced blends of the producer’s single origin coffees and are available in 500g bags (RRP £15). SeaMoor focuses on single-origin coffees, sourced from ethical estates and smallholder farmers, and is constantly rotating the coffees available depending on seasonal availability. It is currently in the process of converting an old stone barn in Bradwell to enable expansion of the business. seamoorcoffee.co.uk
Two of Pekoe Tea’s latest introductions are the result of collaborations with fellow Edinburgh businesses. Scottish Fudge Tea was developed together with The Fudge House of Edinburgh, a historic institution on the city’s Royal Mile. This Assam-based afternoon tea blend contains real nuggets of fudge that dissolve in the tea to give a discreet sweetness. It comes loose in 50g caddies with an RRP of £9.50. Pekoe Tea has also worked in partnership with The Secret Herb Garden to create a loose-leaf gin tea – Apothecary Rose G&Tea. Ceylon blends with the botanicals used in the garden’s award-winning Secret Garden Old Curiosity Gin. RRP £5.95 for a 40g box. pekoetea.co.uk
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tea & coffee
>>
Two Dogs Coffee is now buying Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee beans (one of the most renowned premium coffees in the world) direct from the Ms Tita farming co-op. Ms Tita is sold in 125g recycled bags (RRP £30). twodogscoffeecompany. com
A versatile coffee that is suited to any brew method, Colombian Supremo delivers a burst of chocolate and caramel with subtle hints of fruit. This 3-star product is the newest roast from 47 Degrees Coffee, which was set up in 2017 with the aim of producing great tasting coffee at an affordable price point. RRP £6.50 per 250g bag. 47degreescoffee.com
OHMG is homing in on the health functionality of magnesium with a fivestrong range of canned still and sparkling waters. Each 330ml can provides 56g of magnesium, along with other ingredients – such as lemon balm, echinacea, ashwagandha and vitamin C – in palatable fruit-botanical flavour combinations. Purists might prefer the two unflavoured varieties. RRP £1.95 per can (trade £1.05). ohmgwater.com
Start-up Jitterbug is hoping to capitalise on the popularity of apple cider vinegar with a new soft drink that is designed to “revitalise from within”. Apple Cider Vinegar Seltzers are available in three no-added-sugar flavours, crafted from English botanicals, real fruit juice and ‘superfoods’ such as Japanese yuzu. RRP £2.49 per 250ml can or 350ml bottle. jitterbug.life.com
Welsh drinks producer Radnor is hoping to harness the functional water trend with a new sub-brand called Vits that promises a “once a day vitamin and mineral boost”. Vitamin D has been brought to the fore by the pandemic, so the launch of a vitamin D-enriched water is timely. Vits comes in two flavours: Lemon & Lime and Apple & Raspberry. radnorhills.co.uk
Hampstead Tea is sporting new livery across its entire collection. The company’s range – all organic and many biodynamic – takes in green, black and herbal teas in loose leaf and plastic-free tea bag format. In addition, Organic Camomile, one of its most popular infusions in tea bag format, is now available as a loose leaf. RRP £5.99 for a 40g pouch. hampsteadtea.com
Vahdam, an Indian company that has built a brand around its country’s “native treasures”, is keen to introduce its Turmeric Latte Mixes to the UK. These mixes blend Indian turmeric with other natural ingredients like ginger, ashwagandha, moringa and reishi mushroom, and the natural sweetener stevia. There are five variants that can be brewed hot or cold with milk. RRP £9.99 for 100g. vahdam.com
Brighton-based entrepreneur Ed Swete has launched a challenger lemonade brand, after struggling to find a traditional lemonade made with “real ingredients”. Based on real lemons and containing a third less sugar than regular traditional lemonades, Sipsup comes in two flavours – Sicilian Lemonade with Botanical Rosemary and Raspberry Lemonade with Botanical Lavender. RRP £22.75 for 275ml. sipsupdrinks.com
Brite Drinks has harnessed one of the biggest trends of the last few years – nootropics – by developing a trio of beverages for mental performance. Pitched as a natural alternative to caffeineand sugar-loaded energy drinks, Brite is packed with ‘superfoods’ such as matcha, guarana and guayusa that contain natural nootropics and features no sugar or sweeteners. RRP £2.50 for 330ml. britedrinks.com
To meet rising demand for premium adult soft drinks, Aston Manor Cider is bringing French beverage brand Maison Bellot to the UK market. With a minimum 49% juice content, the no-added-sugar sparklers blend French apple juice with other natural ingredients. There are three varieties – Original Lemonade, Grapefruit and Lemon & Ginger – available in 330ml cans (RRP £1.20) and 750ml bottles. maisonbellot.co.uk
Fiery Ginger is the latest addition to Genie’s kombucha line-up. Like the brand’s existing Dry Apple and Crisp Citrus variants, this new flavour is made with 100% natural ingredients, offering a sparkling, no-added-sugar alternative to sugary soft drinks and alcohol. RRP £2.25-2.75 for 275ml. geniedrinks.co.uk
Crafted Drinks has taken the classic designated driver drink and elevated it to a more sophisticated level. Unlike a cordial-based lime & soda, Posh Lime & Soda contains no sugar and sweeteners and is made with real lime juice. RRP £1.59 for 330ml. crafteddrinks.co.uk
Developed on the premise that “great coffee does not have to cost the earth”, Penningtons’ Brazil Cerrado Espresso Roast comes in compostable cornstarch capsules. The single origin roast features notes of caramel, dark chocolate and nuts. RRP £3.90 for a pack of 10 capsules. penningtonscoffee.co.uk
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Wholesaler Greencity Coop is carrying new tea and coffee lines from Tchai Ovna, Revolver Ciio, Hempen Cooperative and Yogi. These include Crofter’s Chai, a Scottish symbiosis of Indian spice and the peat smoke of the Hebridean Croft, blended in-house by Tchai Ovna (RRP £7.80 for a 50g bag). greencity.coop
Fentimans hopes that Pink Ginger, developed to offer a contemporary expression of a ginger-style drink, will appeal to a younger demographic. The drink has been crafted with an aromatic ginger root, producing a lighter flavour than the brand is typically known for. RRP £2.99 for 750ml. fentimans.com
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soft drinks
home baking >> Humble Warrior is targeting consumers on the lookout for a healthy and sophisticated alternative to fizzy drinks with a new trio of plant-based drinks in slimline cans. Pomegranate & Hibiscus, Mango & Turmeric and Pineapple & Ginger are the three lowsugar, botanical flavours that launched last month. RRP £2.50. the-humble-warrior.com
Kombucha brand Fix8 has moved into can format to “disrupt the fermented drink space and tackle consumption barriers”. Kombucha is usually packaged in glass bottles which have to be kept chilled throughout the supply chain. Cans are ambient, making distribution and storage easier. RRP £2.25 per unit. fix8.com
The pandemic has prompted The Big Banana Bread Co to turn its focus from freshly baked slices for the likes of Fortnum & Masons, POD and Crussh, to a boxed bake-at-home recipe. With just 10 minutes of preparation, home bakers can produce a large family loaf of Aussie banana bread containing over four bananas. RRP £4.99. bigbananabread.com
James White has overhauled its Thorncroft range of hedgerowinspired cordials, giving the brand a new look that emphasises its plant-based origins, and reducing the sugar content by 37%. In addition, a new Turmeric cordial has been added to the line-up. Using pressed turmeric juice rather than powder has produced a “lively, refreshing taste and attractive golden colour”. jameswhite.co.uk
Virtue Drinks has refreshed the branding and recipes of its yerba mate herbal energy drinks. Despite containing zero sugar and calories, these ‘clean’ drinks are said to provide the same caffeine boost as a cup of coffee or regular energy drink, thanks to the South American herb. They come in two flavours: Peach & Raspberry and Strawberry & Lime. RRP £1.50 for 250ml. virtuedrinks.com
Superfood Bakery’s two new baking mixes tap into the high-protein and plantbased food trends. As well as containing soy protein, the Plant Power Protein Chocolate Cookie Mix and Plant Power Protein Pancake Mix are vegan-friendly, dairy-free and gluten-free, offering a natural and nutrition-packed alternative to sugary mixes. RRP £4.99. superfoodbakery.co.uk
Last month saw a well-known tea label making its foray in soft drinks, as Teapigs became the latest company to stake a claim in the on-trend kombucha market. Teapigs’ kombucha proposition contains no artificial flavours and sweeteners and is craft brewed in the UK using a live scoby. There are three blends, presented in slimline 250ml cans: Original is brewed with Rwandan black and Mao Feng green tea from China, whilst both Ginger & Lemongrass and Peach & Mango are based on the company’s original ‘booch’ with infusions. The company, which was started by Nick Kilby and Louise Allen in 2006, hopes its kombucha will appeal to those looking for a wellness beverage, a healthier soft drink or an alcohol alternative. RRP £1.90. teapigs.co.uk
Indies looking for a soft drinks family that will look good on-shelf or in the chiller should check out Scottish fruit soda brand Rapscallion. The Glasgow soft drinks producer has picked up two industry awards for its minimalist packaging design since it was rolled out last year. The drinks themselves are engineered by hand and are a case study in harnessing fresh fruit in soft drink production. “We extract the taste and aroma from ingredients before utilising pressure and temperature to elevate the natural taste from the fruit,” says Gregor Leckie, the company’s founder. “We then finish the soda by supercharging with carbonation.” By maximising the flavour of the fruit, Rapscallion says it uses less than half the sugar found in most soft drinks. As well as seasonal flavours, Rapscallion has a core, season-proof range, which includes Ginga Ninja, Burnt Lemon and Dry Lime. RRP £2.50 for 250ml. rapscallionsoda.com
Following the success of its minican eight-packs and in response to rising online demand from consumers for full trade cases, Folkington’s has launched a case multi-pack format for its natural sparkling drink range. Containing six 250ml cans, the case has an RRP of £6. folkingtons.com
Three years after launching as a student start-up, We Made has moved its real fruit still lemonade into cans and reviewed its recipes to bring the sugar content down to less than 5%. The brand is sticking with its two tried-andtested varieties – Zesty Lemon and Juicy Raspberry & Lemon. RRP £1.29. wemadedrinks.com
Craggs & Co has rolled out a new packaging design for its white and wholegrain spelt flours, bringing them in line with its other ancient grain flours, which include wholegrain emmer, rye and einkorn. RRP is £3 for a 1kg bag. craggsandco.co.uk
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home baking With varieties such as Lyburn Old Winchester & Oregano, Cheddar & Fennel and Rutland Red Leicester & Pink Peppercorn, Giddy Nibbles claims to be the UK’s first bake-at-home cheese biscuit brand. The dough roll can be kept in the fridge or freezer to slice and bake at home. The venture was set up during the second lockdown by two friends, Amanda Fox and Tracy Moore. giddynibbles.com
Clootie McToot has launched kits for making clootie dumplings at home. With an RRP of (£17.99-19.99 for 700g), the kits contains all the dried ingredients, muslin ‘cloot’ (cloth) and detailed instructions for making these traditional Scottish puddings. They come in two varieties Traditional and Apple, Pear & Cinnamon – with gluten-free and vegan versions coming soon. clootiemctootdumplings. com
Known for adding a modern twist to traditional recipes, Nana Lily’s has drawn on the pulling power of alcohol to create a trendy take on the sponge pudding. Luscious Limoncello Sponge Pudding and The Ultimate Sticky Toffee Pudding with Irish Cream Sauce were both launched on QVC at the end of 2020, with an RRP of £5.95-6.50 (290g). nanalilys.co.uk
Following the successful introduction of its Sticky Toffee and Sticky Lemon Puddings, The Carved Angel is adding Chocolate and Ginger to its Sticky Pudding line up. Available from August via The Bay Tree wholesale, these light sponge desserts come with lashings of rich, silky sauce. RRP £6.95 for a 290g pudding (serves 3). thecarvedangel.com
Italian-born Ugo Massabo has taken his late father’s family recipe and created a premium alternative to industrialised, often preservative-packed tiramisu. TiramisUGO is freshly prepared using ingredients from Cornwall and Italy, and presented in 190ml glass jars. It is already on shelf in the Great Cornish Food Store, where it retails at £10 for a box of three. mytiramisugo.com
Tapping into the popularity of ‘real’ vanilla as a baking ingredient is Kiddu, with its Ugandan vanilla pods. The pods are hand-picked, then cured for six months at the company’s facility in Uganda before being packed in the UK. Each resealable pouch contains two pods wrapped in biodegradable wax paper to keep them fresh for up to two years. RRP £6.79. kiddu.net
Creative Nature’s pancake & waffle mix is billed as a hassle-free way to enjoy pancakes and waffles, with pre-measured ingredients and simple recipes to follow on the packet. The mix is vegan, free from the top 14 allergens, and gluten-, nut-, wheat- and dairy-safe. RRP £3.49; wholesale price £2.60. creativenaturesuperfoods. co.uk
Dorset ‘no bake’ cake producer Green + Grainy has tweaked some of its nutritious cake recipes. Free from gluten, refined sugar and dairy, Forest Brownie is a remodel of the Chocolate Praline Slice. The raw cake layers dark chocolate, almond and hazelnut praline, sour cherries and Brazil nuts. It sells to cafés at £24 / tray (15 pre-cut portions). RRP £2.75-3.25. greenandgrainy.co.uk
Showing that dessert can be nutritious as well as indulgent is newcomer Roar, whose low-saturatedfat, low-sugar, high-protein dessert pots pack 20g of protein per 100g pot. They are available in three flavours – Jaffa Break, Double Chocolate and Raspberry Blondie (RRP £2.50). Also new from the brand are two sponge pudding varieties and a high-protein cookie dough. nowroar.co.uk
Originally launched for Veganuary, this veganfriendly carrot cake has now become a year-round fixture in Cakesmith’s ‘traycake’ range for delis, cafés and coffee shops. Lightly spiced carrot and orange sponge with sultanas, coconut and walnut pieces is topped with vegan cream cheese and vanilla frosting. RRP £2.95-3.50 per slice. Wholesale price £21.25 per tray of 18 pre-cut portions. cakesmiths.com
For those outlets looking to expand their gluten-free offer, Davina Steel has created a gluten-free version of an afternoon tea staple. Its Lemon Drizzle loaf cake has a 14-day shelf life and is baked at the company’s East Anglian glutenfree bakery. RRP £3.25; wholesale price £2.10. davinasteel.com
Marlenka has created a cinnamon version of its traditional Armenian honey cake. Honey milk caramel and sponge are sandwiched in layers and finished with chocolate icing, chopped walnuts and cinnamon. RRP £14.99; trade price £8.87 for 800g (8-16 portions). marlenka.uk
East Yorkshire’s Side Oven Bakery has relaunched its 1.5kg organic stoneground flour range in eco-packaging. The white, wholemeal, wholegrain spelt and wholegrain einkorn flours are strong flours said to be ideal for home baking. The flours are milled on-site in a traditional stoneground mill. RRP £9. sideoven.com 34
cakes & puddings
May 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 4
Cocoa & Cinnamon is a newcomer to the luxury baking mixes space. Presented in reusable jars, its mixes include Green Tea Blondie (matcha flavoured blondie with white chocolate and pistachios), Nutty Butter Blondie (blondie with peanuts and chocolate), and The Chocoholic Brownie (classic chocolate brownies). RRP £12.50. cocoaandcinnamon.co.uk
Ice cream label Jude’s has moved into the custards space after spotting a gap for a premium, ambient offering. Jude’s Custards come in Madagascan Vanilla and Belgian Chocolate flavours featuring real bourbon vanilla and chocolate. RRP £2 for 500ml. judes.com
R E F R E S H I N G LY S T R O N G REAL FRUIT DRINKS
Land Girls of the future Land Girls is proud to launch its first two products - Sumatra and Peru Fairtrade Coffee Beans From a handful of coffee beans, Land Girls will continue to grow as a brand and as a voice for female farmers across the world. And with your support, we could change the future for generations of female farmers to come. HELLO@WEMADEDRINKS.COM WWW.WEMADEDRINKS.COM @WEMADEDRINKS
www.land-girls.co.uk
Retail and Catering formats available Contact info@omgteas.co.uk or call 01273 855882 for more information Quote FFD20 when ordering to receive
www.omgteas.co.uk
Vol.22 Issue 4 | May 2021
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TEA THAT’S TWICE AS MINTY We reintroduce the peppermint oil to our homegrown dried peppermint leaves, to create an infusion that’s twice as refreshing. Find out more about our award-winning tea at www.summerdown.com
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RELAXATION.CANNED. OHMG range of Magnesium Waters contain 56mg of Magnesium, that’s as much as an Avocado. Drop us an email to learn more: sales@ohmgwater.com www.ohmgwater.com
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NO SUGARS / NO SWEETENERS / NO CALORIES 36
May 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 4
PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
Ahmad Tea
Our story: 35 years of Ahmad Tea More than three decades ago in Hampshire, a young tea-trader pursued his vision to create extraordinary tea that could be enjoyed by anyone, anywhere in the world... THE CHAIRMAN’S PROMISE
35 YEARS OF AHMAD TEA: A TEA JOURNEY
1986: Ahmad Tea is founded by Mr Rahim Afshar and his brothers and is based in a small office above the family’s Kabir Tea Shop on Southampton’s London Road.
I will not sell anything that I would not drink at home
1987: Ahmad Tea’s first loose tea blend goes on sale, with products stocked in local retailers in the South of England and London. 1996: Growing demand for tea across Ahmad Tea’s global markets sees new offices open in Colombo, Sri Lanka. 2000: By the turn of the Millennium, Ahmad Tea is one of the top 5 leading tea brands across Russia, Ukraine and the Middle East. 2003: A milestone moment as Ahmad Tea takes on the majority share of the tea gift market in the UK and is available in 68 countries worldwide. 2010: Ahmad Tea opens new offices in Chandler’s Ford, Hampshire. The offices host a tea-tasting room and a carefully curated tea museum. 2012: Ahmad Tea steps up its charitable work, with plans to build a cancer hospital in Colombo, and initiating a water-drilling programme in Niger. 2019: Ahmad Tea becomes a Great Taste Producer, taking the company’s awards tally to a total of 22 since first entering in 2015. 2021: Ahmad Tea continues to grow as a family business. Innovation and expansion in product blends, coupled with a commitment to the highest quality standards, means Ahmad Tea products are sold in more than 80 countries around the world.
TODAY, AHMAD TEA, the family owned UK tea company and a global leader in speciality tea, inspires the love of tea in more than 80 markets around the world. We take a look back at the brand’s milestones from the past 35 years to uncover the inspiration behind the tea that’s loved by millions, and reveal its mission for today - to continue to produce the highest quality tea and to inspire kindness with every cup. FOR THE LOVE OF TEA Nothing brings people together like a great cup of tea. From special celebrations to everyday moments, as a brand Ahmad Tea is committed to inspiring tea drinkers through their passion and dedication to quality. To ensure the highest quality, every single Ahmad Tea blend undergoes a long, intricate journey from crop to cup. From hand-plucking the best leaves and buds in the world’s finest tea gardens to tastings at every stage in its journey, the tea is nurtured to ensure every sip is worth it. THE ART OF A GREAT CUP The perfect cup of tea isn’t created without a lot of hard work; tea artistry takes time and dedication. Ahmad Tea has some of the world’s best tea tasters on its team, sampling up to 500 cups each day to ensure the blends are of the highest quality
and the taste is consistent. Senior Tea Taster, William Manning, describes the work that goes into creating the perfect cup: “I believe that tea blending is an art. It’s constant trial and error. Sometimes you can select the two besttasting teas and when you put them together, they clash. But when you create the perfect blend there’s no other way to describe it other than euphoria! To be an artist takes a huge amount of passion and determination to achieve something at the highest level.” INSPIRING KINDNESS With every cup of Ahmad Tea, the brand strives to make the world a better place. As a proud member of the Ethical Tea Partnership, they are passionate about bringing communities together to help those in need. They do this by donating a considerable percentage of profits to charity – inspiring kindness where it’s most needed, from helping people in Niger access clean water to building and furnishing a fully equipped hospital in Sri Lanka.
Mr Rahim Afshar, Chairman, Ahmad Tea To celebrate its 35 year milestone, Ahmad Tea has developed ‘The Chairman’s Promise’, a limited edition blend to mark Mr Rahim’s founding promise. The special anniversary tea – a delicate, aromatic blend of fine Ceylon and Darjeeling tea with orange blossom – is inspired by one of the founder’s earliest memories: “The smell of orange blossom immediately takes me back to a very special place and time in my childhood. It was a glorious day with the sun shining and I can vividly remember the gentle breeze rustling through the leaves, carrying with it the most beautiful scent of orange blossom. It felt like the most perfect day to be alive, and to this day whenever I smell orange blossom I am transported back to that perfect childhood memory.”
To find out more about Ahmad Tea’s 35 year anniversary, go to www.ahmadtea.com/35-years To enquire about Ahmad Tea’s range of Great Taste awardwinning teas, contact Ahmad Tea at uk.sales@ahmadtea.com or go to www.ahmadtea.com Vol.22 Issue 4 | May 2021
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May 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 4
FOCUS ON
foodservice
Kerb appeal As foodservice reopens outdoors, many urban retailers will be wondering how they can make the most of their limited outdoor space By Tom Dale
THE MIDDLE OF LAST MONTH marked the reopening of foodservice in England, though the stipulation that only outdoor dining was allowed will have been prohibitive for many businesses. For those with ample room, the news would have been met with jubilation, but for many cityand town-centre delis for whom outdoor space is limited or nonexistent, the celebrations may have been more muted. However, the Government’s extension of its pavement licences relaxation – brought into effect last year – and other local measures provide some hope. Some retailers are finding that al fresco dining is the way forward and others are even ditching cramped inside seating for good. Secretary Of State for Housing, Communities & Local Government Robert Jenrick announced in March that it would be even easier for businesses to obtain temporary licences for tables and seating on pavements, “allowing them to increase their outdoor capacity quickly and at a low cost”. One business taking advantage of the scheme is Nottingham citycentre deli, Delilah Fine Foods. The city’s council is offering free applications to encourage trade back to the once-thriving shopping district. “It’s been incredibly dead here,” says owner Sangita Tryner. “But it’s now really starting to pick up. I’m anticipating a much greater boon to trade from the outdoor seating this time. When we did this before, it was winter and it was just to show that we were open.”
When the legislation was introduced last year, Tryner noticed that the nearby Lace Market area had been transformed into a hub of al fresco eateries. “It was like parts of London,” says Tryner, “and it got me thinking, ‘what can we do?’” Her application for a licence for Delilah was fast-tracked, taking just a week to be approved, and cost the business nothing. Now, the neighbouring unit, a fashion retailer, has closed its doors permanently, leaving unused space. “The council has said that we can put tables outside that unit as well. That gives us another six tables,” she says. “Ten tables is worth having.”
Having the outdoor seating is really about saying, ‘here we are, we’re open, come and have a look’ Another town-centre business that has taken advantage of the dispensation is No.2 Pound Street. The Wendover-based wine and cheese merchant’s annual licensing has been slashed from £300 to £100. Owner James Grant also hopes to make use of the market square opposite the shop to expand the retailer’s outdoor seating with marquees – something the
business did last year. “We’re hoping to use the market area across the road on Fridays through to Sundays to give more space for people to have their coffees, tasting platters, and takeaway glasses of wine,” says Grant. “Last year they allowed us the use of that space for free, but now the council have proposed a nominal charge, but we’re currently negotiating with them over that as we believe it encourages trade in the centre.” Grant says that coronavirus has inspired a permanent change in No.2’s retail-foodservice split. Previously, the relatively small space had seating for customers to enjoy their cheese and charcuterie tasters, but instead, the business will be keeping its outside area and also making use of a newly converted old storeroom to free up more floor space inside the shop. “The pandemic has made us more switched on to where we want to focus the business – we’ll never lose the foodservice side of things, but we did need to rethink. We were being busy fools.” Back in Nottingham, Tryner is putting the final touches on the business’s new outdoor offer – reducing the menu size while keeping the classics that customers have been pining for during lockdown. She is also ordering more branded tables, chairs and barriers. At least to begin with, Delilah will be offering the seating area as a place for its customers to eat their takeaway, as the current COVID legislation requires sitdown ordering, and the extra cost
that entails could make the venture unviable. “We’re gearing up for it being pretty busy, though,” says Tryner. “With the weather improving and people stuck for things to do, we’re hoping that a trip to the town centre will be bringing the crowds back. “Having the outdoor seating is really about saying, ‘here we are, we’re open, come and have a look’.” With the final details coming together, now the only issue is the airborne pests that have taken to sitting in the errant buddleia that has sprouted above Delilah’s storefront. “Maybe there’ll be a roasted pigeon special on the menu!” USEFUL INFORMATION • The application fee for a pavement licence has been capped at £100 and a 10-working-day consultation and determination period has been enforced. Councils have been instructed that licences must be granted “unless there are good reasons not to”. • Customers are unable to enter the premises of a restaurant, unless it is to use the toilet, meaning that all payments and orders must be taken at their table. Delilah is getting around this until 17th May (when indoor dining restarts) by offering the seating as a place to eat takeaway food. • All tables should have adequate space surrounding them, providing a sufficient two-metre distance between diners and the table next to them.
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FOCUS ON
foodservice
EQUIPMENT & INGREDIENTS
FROM THE DELI KITCHEN SIMPLE RECIPES TO BOOST YOUR MARGINS
APPLE PIE Halfway between a cake and a pastry, this apple pie is ideal as both a grab-and-go item from the counter or served with refreshments to sit-down customers.
Method: Make the pastry by blending together the ingredients in a food processor. The dough will be soft and sticky. Cover and place in the fridge for 30-45 minutes to firm up.
Fill the pie with the apple filling mixture, then top it with the remaining pastry. Don’t worry if it has holes, just seal the edges and use any extra bits from the side to fill in any gaps.
Serves: 12
Mix together the filling ingredients in a large bowl.
Brush the top of the pie with egg wash and bake for 30-35 minutes until golden brown and cooked through.
Ingredients: For the pastry: 300g butter 200g soft brown sugar 2 eggs, beaten 450g plain flour 1 tsp baking powder For the filling: 8 apples, cut into 2cm chunks 1 tbsp cornflour 4 tbsp brown sugar 1 tbsp cinnamon Grating of nutmeg Pinch of salt
Divide the firm dough into three parts. Then, using your fingers, press 2/3 of the dough out to line a 26cm flan tin. Roll the remaining dough out in between two sheets of very well-floured baking paper, to fit the top of the pie.
Serve warm, or at room temperature, with lightly whipped cream.
Lincat has added two new heated food-to-go merchandisers to its Seal range. The compact HAD40 and HAD50 models (400mm and 500mm-wide respectively) are suitable for cafés and shops where counter space for precooked foods is at a premium. Made from stainless steel and toughened glass, both models are 585mm deep and 845mm high, and they plug into a standard 13-amp socket, so they require no installation. lincat.co.uk Hobart’s new range of ecomax products includes an improved hood-type dishwasher H604, which consumes just 2.3 litres of water per rack and the option of three different runtimes (75/150/180 seconds). The water consumption of both the G415 glasswasher and the F515 dishwasher has also been lowered, while Hobart has added two new undercounter dishwashers to the ecomax roster. hobartuk.com
Michael Lane
Allergen-friendly chocolate brand Happi Free From has launched its new Oat Milk Chocolate Cooking Buttons (made using oat milk, 46.5% cocoa solids and sunflower lecithin) in 5kg bags for foodservice. This catering-sized format is being pitched to cafés, bakeries and restaurant operations but is also ideal for zero-waste refill stores. happifreefrom.com
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Recipe by Jules Mercer for Fine Food Digest May 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 4
Award winning flour made with wheat from local farms. The names of the farms are on the back of each bag.
www.wessexmill.co.uk
Vol.22 Issue 4 | May 2021
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SAVE THE DATE
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Sunday 17 October 10am-4pm Monday 18 October 9am-5pm TRADE ONLY
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Visit us online or contact us to discover our great range of juices. We supply good food shops, hotels, pubs and restaurants.
GET 20% OFF YOUR FIRST COFFEE ORDER We directly source and roast only the best quality coffee we can find from farmers around the world, in the most sustainable, socially supportive and environmentally friendly way. Order online to get freshly roasted coffee from our roastery in North London delivered straight to your door.
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Our award-winning flour is produced from the finest ancient grains which are sustainably grown in the beautiful British countryside. Our entire range carry the highly sought after Great Taste 2 and 3 star awards, in recognition of outstanding quality and flavour. Available in 1kg and 20kg bags. Minimum order 2 boxes of 10 × 1 kg bags. No delivery charges. Call or email today for a trade price list Sustainably farmed
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trio to a savoury delight! We also have our new McCoo range available. To find out more, contact Sarah Gray’s Direct – info@ sarahgrays.co.uk or order through our wholesaler The Cress Co 0845 643 1330.
Speciality coffee selected by professional Baristas
MADE BY ME ON OUR ANGUS FARM
Available from Sarah Gray’s Direct info@sarahgrays.co.uk or through our wholesaler The Cress Co 0845 643 1330
Join our journey
RASPBERRY JAM “A lovely set and a deep pink colour. An absolute blast of raspberries hits the nose and then explodes on the tongue. Lots of seeds add texture and are perfectly distributed within the jam, which we find irresistible. We felt we could not have got any closer to the raspberries if we had rolled in the patch ourselves.” A Great Taste Judge
CHILLI JAM “Vibrant, sticky chilli jam with aroma from both the peppers and chillis. The sweetness of roasted peppers matches the spicy warmth of chillis. Well judged and well made.” A Great Taste Judge
Proud to have been nominated for the Golden Fork from Scotland
FIND OUT MORE www
we also offer trade beans, machines and Barista training
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May 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 4
sarahgrays.co.uk
/sarahgrays.co.uk
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SHELF TALK
Tubby Tom’s expands production capacity to meet huge demand By Tom Dale
Midlands hot sauce and spice mix producer Tubby Tom’s is expanding into new premises to keep up with the increase in demand the brand has seen since the effects of coronavirus hit the UK in 2020. The Great Taste-winning company is doubling its manufacturing space by moving into a new unit two doors down from its current base in Gloucester, while owner Tom Hughes said the current production unit will be transformed into a test and show kitchen for NPD and social media cooking demos. The brand has seen exponential growth since last year, owing to the popularity of the Shop Local movement and huge growth in online direct-to-consumer sales. “It’s been difficult to keep up with demand because we just didn’t predict that the sauces
would take off like this – surprised would be the wrong word, but we’ve been really happy with the numbers of people who support us,” said Hughes. All of Tubby Tom’s sauces and spice mixes are cooked, blended and filled by hand. “We roast all our own spices, cook all our sauces, and even fill the bottles by hand using a funnel,” said Hughes. “We’re investing in some new machinery in the move to make the whole process more efficient.” To help keep up with the increase in demand, Hughes is also doubling his staff by taking on four new full-time staff members over the coming year, but despite the growth, he is committed to keeping the handmade touch to the operation. “We make everything by hand, and we love the way we do things – sauce just tastes better when you make it like that. Mass-produced stuff just never tastes as good.” The founder said that it is for this reason that he isn’t interested in being stocked in supermarkets. “It makes things a numbers game,” he said. “When you start making deals with the big supermarkets there’s a lot of risk, and I don’t want to play that game, I’d rather just make really good sauces with nice ingredients, employ good people and push it that way.” As well as the expansion, the brand is set to release three new lines to its already large range – Carolina Mustard BBQ sauce, Taco Seasoning and Burnt Peach & Bourbon Glaze. tubbytoms.com
Eco Green Living is launching a new pointof-sale unit aimed at increasing awareness of eco-friendly products and providing a one-stop solution for retailers to provide consumers with ecoalternatives to everyday items. The point-of-sale unit is fully stocked with premium alternatives to plastic products that are 100% compostable. The products are made using a resin from the stalk of sweetcorn, and thistle made from GMO crops. All products are third-party certified compostable. The unit contains the following Biobag products: food and freezer bags, caddy liners, dog waste bags, bin liners, wheelie bin liners, eco cling film and eco tin foil. ecogreenliving.co.uk
WHAT’S NEW Boxer Gin – from the Sustainable Spirit Co. – has created a pre-mixed version of the classic Negroni cocktail. Export strength Boxer Gin is blended with Negroni Antica Distilleria amaro and red Torino vermouth with a dash of red mandarin bitters to make the pre-mixed drink, which is sold in a unique blue glass bottle and has an RRP of £29.95 boxergin.com Bristol-based Wild and Game has launched its new Huntsman 1lb Pie – a cold chicken, pheasant & pork pie with a wild boar herby stuffing and a traditional hot water crust pastry casing. It is the brand’s take on the more familiar pork pie and has an RRP of £7.99. wildandgame.co.uk Nairn’s has added to its range of gluten-free cereals with Oats Your Way. Available in two varieties – Apple & Cinnamon and Blueberry – the product is a combination of fruit pieces with Nairn’s wholegrain oats. It is available in 375g packs with an RRP of £2.79. nairns-oatcakes.com
New plant-based dips brand hopes to Do Goodly A new producer of plant-based foods has launched its debut range of dips aimed at the growing market of health-conscious consumers and is set to donate a portion of all profits to a mental health charity. True to its name, Do Goodly’s founders Richard Abbey and Scott Davis have said the company will donate 10% of its earnings to Mind. Michelin-trained chef Davis created the four-strong range of vegan dips – Mighty Beetroot Borani, Smashed Pea Guacamole, Superstar Salsa and Tasty Tomato & Bean Houmous – after the pair spotted a gap in the market for purely plant-based dips that cater directly for health-conscious consumers. Abbey said: “Scott and I aimed to create a range of food that looks and tastes wonderful and is good for you. “We’re also proud to be supporting Mind, especially during lockdown when so many people are experiencing pressures such as loneliness, worry and financial uncertainty. We aim to expand our range over the coming year, introducing more fresh, original and healthy products designed by Scott.”
The co-founder also said that the brand is a perfect match for independent retail, being a unique, premium product. He said the lines are currently listed with Castell Howell & Blas Ar Fwyd, but that they are happy to deal directly with independent retailers. The dips come in trade packs of six with an RRP of £2.50.
dogoodlydips.com
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SHELF TALK My magic ingredient
WHAT’S NEW Premium chocolate makers Doisy & Dam has announced that its seasonal special Dark Chocolate Truffles will be available year-round after the line’s success. The vegan, GMO- and palm oil-free chocolates use single-origin Colombian cocoa and have an RRP of £5.50. doisyanddam.com East Yorkshire-based Wold Top Brewery has launched its first lowalcohol beer. Intuition (<0.5% ABV) is a hop-forward pale ale that has been brewed in response to consumer demand for no- and low-alcohol drinks. The new brew is available direct from the brewery and has an RRP of £1.26 for a 330ml bottle. woldtopbrewery.co.uk Healthy snack brand This Is Nuts has launched a range of skin-on cashews. The brand has decided to preserve the thin layer of skin on the cashews to boost the snack’s fibre content by 4.5 times and boost the health credentials by adding 10 more polyphenols – powerful antioxidants. The range comprises three flavours: Tropical Cacao, Roasted & Sea Salt, and Garlic & Pepper. thisisnuts.se
Tubby Tom’s Squealer hot sauce CHARLIE WELLS Director, The Farm Stratford Tubby Toms is a brand that’s local to us here – it’s made in Gloucester – and it’s an amazing smoky, scotch bonnet hot sauce that won a Great Taste two-star in 2017. I use it on loads of food at home. I stick it on every pizza I have and, this may sound a little weird, I always put it on my greens as well, like broccoli – it just makes them more interesting. It works because it’s got loads of flavour from the smoked chillis, tomato and garlic, but it’s still really hot. It’s one of those hot sauces that’s got a bit more depth of flavour than the usual. It was the first sauce that the producer made, and the first that I tried. I’ve been using it for about a year but we’ve only stocked it for about six months. We wanted to stock the brand since I first tried it, but his sauces are pretty hard to get – they’re massively in demand. A lot of our chefs know him personally and were telling me I needed to get his sauces on our shelves. He’s got such a good following – as soon as we got it in we sold out.
It’s one of those hot sauces that’s got a bit more depth of flavour than the usual
Charlie buys hers from tubbytoms.com
Smoked salmon ‘Gilltong’ is the latest offer from innovative fish brand By Tom Dale
Brighton-based experimental boozy salmon brand The Pished Fish has bolstered its reputation for interesting NPD with its latest launch, Gilltong. The new product is described by the producer as halfway between jerky and biltong but made with smoked salmon instead of the traditional dried meats. The high-protein snack is made with sliced prime smoked salmon fillets which are then marinated in teriyaki, honey, Tabasco sauce and black pepper before being air-dried. The Pished Fish’s founder James Eagle said the product was created in response to the surge in popularity of healthy, at-home snacking since the coronavirus pandemic drove the nation from their workplaces. The brand was launched in 2017 and found its footing in Sussex’s farmer’s markets and street food scene before it was launched into food halls – such as Selfridges and Fortnums – and independent retailers. At the beginning of the COVID lockdown in 2020, the company lost a major food hall contract. This allowed its founder more time to 46
May 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 4
focus on developing new lines – including this latest concept, as well as pâtés, fish pies and potted salmon. Eagle says that despite a pandemic-inspired push for more direct-to-consumer sales, independent delis and farm shops are still central to the business. Gilltong comes with an RRP of £5.49 per 50g pouch. thepishedfish.com
Great Taste award-winning family business Popcorn Shed has added a new flavour to its Mini Pop range of mini popcorn snacks – Maple Bacon. Like the other five lines in the range, the new addition is also, surprisingly, vegan. It joins Sweet & Salty, Sea Salt, Salt & Vinegar, White Truffle, and Toffee, each with an RRP of 89-99p. popcornshed.com
Supplying the finest Madagascar Vanilla Pods & Powder, Krokos Kozani Organic Saffron, Venus Pure Kenya Teas & Venus Spanish Saffron Powder
Krokos Kozanis PDO Organic Greek Red Saffron
Alongside our fantastic saffron strands, imported directly from the picturesque fields of Kozani in Greece, we now supply gourmet Madagascar Vanilla. This vanilla’s intense, luxurious, sweet floral aroma, is perfect for all kinds of culinary adventures. www.saffrondirect.com
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ORGANIC - VEGAN - GLUTEN FREE
REDFERN’S TORTILLA CHIPS
Redfern’s Ancient Grain tortilla chips begin with a unique wholegrain cereal blend base comprised of rice, corn, amaranth, quinoa and millet. High in fibre, very low in sugar and saturated fat, GM-free certified this is a nutritionally powerful “no nasties” alternative that tastes great too.
www.redfernsorganic.com // sales@organico.co.uk // 01189 238760 Vol.22 Issue 4 | May 2021
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SHELF TALK MEET THE PRODUCER
WHAT’S NEW During lockdown, Ellen Halpin-Barnett of Nana Lily’s discovered some more of her great grandmother’s recipes and has since added two more lines to the brand’s range: Raspberry & Gin Jam and Whiskey Marmalade. Both are made using traditional methods and have no additives or preservatives. RRP, £3.50-£3.95. nanalilys.co.uk
Gemma Standeven is the founder of GATTERTOP DRINKS CO, a premium spirits company based in Herefordshire on an ancient farm. All the traditional botanicals used in the brand’s two-strong range are sourced from its on-site orchard What were you doing before you launched Gattertop Drinks? I worked in international development for 15 years, both overseas and from the UK. My work focused on humanitarian response programmes, bringing an end to sexual violence in war zones and putting more women at the centre of conflict resolution. After becoming a mum, I wanted to bring out my entrepreneurial side, move to the countryside and be closer to my family. Why did you decide to start the brand? I identified a gap in the vodka market – using it as an alternative to gin – and more recently a gap in the botanical vodka market. I spotted an amazing opportunity, using vodka as the perfect alcohol base. It doesn’t have a distinctive taste, aroma or colour, which is brilliant for showcasing beautiful botanicals in their own right. What is the biggest lesson you have learned so far? Be brave and bold. Follow your instincts, lead with your heart, don’t compromise, and invest time in getting it right. I have learned where my strengths and weaknesses lie and where to ask for help.
drinks. The traditional orchards at Gattertop have a huge amount of history attached to them, so it was the obvious choice to use traditional ingredients and plants, if they lived in harmony in nature, surely they could in my drinks! I was also fascinated to see what flavours I could produce. Why is sustainability important to you and your business? What kind of planet our children will inherit if we don’t consider live more sustainably is something I think about a lot. My children won’t eat Nutella anymore because they learned about palm oil and the destruction of the rainforest at school. I’m not going to be on the stage at the UN, but I like to do my bit on an individual basis. I aim to use the B-Corp framework to help our business meet sustainability targets.
I let the ingredients of the orchards determine the route and profile of my drinks
What makes your spirits stand out? Provenance, taste and premium quality. I am proud to say that many factors make us stand out, including the single-sourced natural ingredients we use that are led by nature, all from one ancient farm and orchard in Herefordshire. I use a truly innovative, authentic and considered approach to developing a flavour profile to capture the English Orchard in a glass and both drinks have had rave reviews; Damson No 12 has won a Great Taste award five years in a row and Difford’s Guide has given both our drinks a 4.5 out of 5 rating. Why did you decide to use traditional ingredients and botanicals? I started to experiment with flavours, letting the ingredients of the orchards determine the route and profile of my
May 2021 | Vol.22 Issue 4
Inspired by the predicted summer outdoor dining and BBQ boom this year, Butlers Farmhouse Cheeses has created Blacksticks Blue Mega Burger Slices’ Each pack contains four 80mm diameter, thickcut slices, which are designed to melt onto burgers. RRP £3. butlerscheese.co.uk
What is the best thing about being a small business? Working on every element of the business has its challenges, but huge rewards, and working alongside people who believe in you and want to see you succeed is empowering. …and the worst? The small hits can be huge, and before I brought in more team members it was a lonely place. You need to bounce ideas around, share the highs and lows, and feel part of a team. What’s next for Gattertop Drinks? We’d love to do another spirit that is in keeping with the brand story, and the orchard is big Freshly Ground Sponsor advert 2016 print ready.pdf enough to support expansion. C
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Premium condiment producer Stokes Sauces has launched a new range of ‘MealMaking Sauces’ comprising Red Wine & Green Peppercorn, Katsu Curry, Salsa Roja and Pomodoro. Each 175g jar has a simple threestep recipe on its label. The Red Wine & Green Peppercorn sauce has an RRP of £2.65 and trade price of £10.56 (6x175g) and the three other sauces have an RRP of £2.45 (trade £9.84). stokessauces.co.uk
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Husband-and-wife business Real Handful has launched two new ranges of savoury snacks – Craft Baked Nuts and Savoury Trail Mix. The baked nuts range includes high-oleic Argentinian peanuts and Californian almonds. The almonds come in Smoky BBQ flavour (112g, RRP ££2.99) and the peanuts in Sea Salted or Salt & Vinegar (50g or 112g packs, RRP £1/£1.99). The trail mixes come in three varieties in 112g 16/08/2016 10:37 packs – Super Sweet & Salty, Salt & Vinegar Verve and Smokin’ BBQ – all with an RRP of £2.50. The range is available to independents through Delicious Ideas Food Group. realhandful.com
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DELI OF THE MONTH Barney’s Deli is less than three years old but this Brighton business has navigated the pandemic and even managed to open a second site, in Hove. The operation has been driven by Michaela Myers and her firm belief in food and drink from Sussex. Interview by Michael Lane
Success by the sea IF YOU WERE EXPECTING to visit Barney’s Deli and meet the eponymous individual behind this Brighton retailer, you might be in for a shock. You’ll certainly see him – there’s a large portrait photo above the till – but whether he’d be able to advise you on what cheese to buy is another matter. Barney is in fact a Cavapoo that belongs to the deli’s owner, Michaela Myers, who beams as she explains how she came to name the shop after her beloved pet. “When we were going to open, I was coming up with all these clever names like ‘Fromage à Trois’ and stuff like that,” she tells FFD. “A few of our friends said: ‘Why not just call it Barney’s?’ because they loved the idea of it being named after a dog.” Don’t be fooled into thinking that Myers isn’t taking retailing seriously, though. Yes, there are quirks (no serveover, a Sussex-first sourcing policy and a fully-fledged vegan cheese range) but this deli, in the city’s trendy North Laine area, wouldn’t have survived the pandemic without Myers’s shopkeeping nous.
VITAL STATISTICS
Location: 39 Kensington Gardens, Brighton BN1 4Al and 149 Portland Road, Hove BN3 5QJ Average basket: £15 (Brighton) Gross margin: 40% (Brighton), 50% (Hove) Staff: Two in each shop
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Despite its (pre-COVID) bustling location you would fear for a business on a pedestrianised street 10 minutes from the beach, but Barney’s has managed to keep trading at a decent level. And it’s done so without any kind of foodto-go offer – only to recently open a second foodservice-led outlet in nearby Hove. Barney’s has come a long way despite only opening its doors two-and-a-half years ago. It began when Myers was made redundant, turned 50 and suffered a health scare all in a short space of time. This prompted her to start pursuing a “life-long dream” of opening a food shop at the beginning of 2018, having already settled in Brighton from her native London a few years earlier. Unlike some who trade in their career for fine food, Myers was well aware of what she was getting into. “My first job as a Saturday girl was working in an old-fashioned provisions shop, where we cooked our own hams and did our own smoking, so I had all of that knowledge,” she says. Myers also had stints at both Paxton & Whitfield and
Jeroboams in the Capital, amassing some 12 years of deli experience before going to university in her mid-20s. “I did my degree, and worked in the corporate world but my passion was always to have this kind of thing.” The search for a property started in February 2018 with a few out-of-town locations but they didn’t fit the bill for Myers’ business plan. “With this kind of place you need footfall,” she says. “Out in the middle of nowhere, people weren’t going to come to me specifically.” By June, she had found the ideal unit on Kensington Gardens and set about refurbishing a rundown former bric-a-brac shop. Even on a street packed with independent retailers, Barney’s stands out with its dark green awning. Most of the cheese in stock is visible through the big front window and it draws in plenty of people from a steady trickle passing up and down the street. “The customer base is very varied,” says Myers. “We get students, pensioners and hipsters.”
It’s no wonder, given an inviting shop floor that is brightly lit by a large ceiling skylight. Stock is displayed in a tidy fashion in multideck fridges or on bespoke shelving made from electrical conduit. The most striking thing, though, is there’s no serveover – most of the cheese is displayed in a well fridge in the front window. “I like the openness of it,” says Myers. “I didn’t want to have a deli where people are serving from behind a counter. When you go to a French cheese shop it’s more like this.” However, that’s where the Continental influence stops. Myers says her initial plan was to sell a classic mix of European items but then she shifted the focus to suppliers from Sussex. “We do go over the county borders a little bit,” she says, nodding to her display of Kent Crisps. “But 80% of what we stock is locally sourced.” “I think that consumer habits are changing, and people are more interested in buying local these days. Air miles and carbon footprint are important. People like the idea of supporting the local economy and farmers.” This approach is most apparent in the main cheese display. Sussex cheesemakers like Allsop & Walker, High Weald Dairy and The Traditional Cheese Dairy are all well represented in British cheese selection that also includes Bath Soft Cheese, Baron Bigod and Wales’s Caws Teifi. Since COVID hit, Barney’s has reduced its range down from 120 to around 80 cheeses but it’s still an impressive collection. There are even a few Continental crowd-pleasers – like Le Gruyère, Morbier and Manchego – but these are tucked away in another chiller. Barney’s gets most of its range from local wholesaler The Cheese Man but does go direct for the odd product, including the most controversial part of the line-up: vegan cheeses. “You could say we’ve had mixed reactions,” says Myers of her decision to bring them in. “But
we’ve had a lot of customers that love the fact we’re doing dairy alternatives. You’ve got a lot of cheese lovers out there maybe looking for a slightly healthier option and are dabbling in that area.” Myers’s belief that these are bonafide deli items is backed up by the fact that plenty of customers will buy both plant-based and regular cheeses in one shopping trip. Given the current circumstances, this roster has been pared down a little too but the dedicated chiller section still features Shamembert from Honestly Tasty and various items from Kinda Co. The line-up has also previously contained local products, such as Not-Brie from Garfields in Kent and Brighton-based Caroline Ospalla. “The vegan cheeses we do are all artisan, not the awful stuff you’re going to get in the supermarkets. They’re made using traditional cheesemaking methods and cultures, and they’re quite a nice complement to the product range that we have.” Carnivores are also well catered for at Barney’s thanks to a charcuterie section that again showcases regional producers – including traditional ham from Weald Smokery, salamis from Rebel Charcuterie and Sussex Gourmand venison bresaola – but they are supplemented with some Continental products. Everything on display is pre-packed but Barney’s has its own slicer and vacuum-packaging machine. So Myers will often buy in and display whole cuts or salamis alongside slices that have been prepped and portioned in-house. “If customers want freshly sliced we’ll do it but most people just want to pick it up and go.” Customers don’t baulk at the prices, even of £10-plus packs of Iberico ham, but Myers says that they do pay attention to what they’re eating. She cites a recent example of one charcutier
MUST-STOCKS Seven Sisters (High Weald Dairy) Sussex Brie with Truffles (Allsop & Walker) Brighton Blue Sussex Gourmand Venison Bresaola Barney’s House Chutney Rowdy & Fancy chocolate bars Bartie’s Chilli & Garlic Chutney Shamembert (Honestly Tasty) Haynes Candied Jalapeños Dr Trouble hot sauces The Woolf’s Kitchen Tamarind Ketchup Rebel Charcuterie salamis Weald Smokery Sussex Ham Horsham Gingerbread Purple Pod Seaweed Oil
CONTINUED ON PAGE 53
Vol.22 Issue 4 | May 2021
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altering its salami recipe to a coarser grind, and having to de-list the line because customers didn’t like it and stopped buying. “It’s a shame, but you’ve got to listen to what your customers want,” she says. Beyond the classic deli lines, Barney’s offers up an eclectic mix of ambient items that takes in local wines, a wall of truffle-flavoured products (often upsold with cheese) and, of course, cheeseflavoured dog treats. Aside from adding veg boxes as part of a local delivery service during the first lockdown, Myers hasn’t deviated from her vision for the deli’s offer and it seems to have worked for shoppers too. “The fact that we’re still going is testament to our customers continuing to shop locally throughout the pandemic and support us.” Although the last year’s revenue has been lower than she would have liked, Myers says it adds up to £250,000 annually – which is on a par with earlier trading years. The shop’s takings have been supplemented by a move into online, which now accounts for around 10% of turnover and has already washed its face, in terms of setup costs. The biggest curveball of the COVID era for Barney’s has been the expansion into a second
location, just up the road in Hove. Myers attributes her decision to buy an existing food business (an organic shop-cum-café called the Black Radish) to “lockdown mentality”. “I was thinking ‘What are we going to do in the future’, I saw the business come up for sale over there and the Government were offering the bounceback loans, which was money for nothing as far as I was concerned.” The very favourable terms (low interest, no repayments for 18 months, up to 10 years to settle up) meant it was a no brainer for Myers to take the loan to supplement her own purchasing power and take on the shop last September. Although primarily foodservice-led with a menu of salads, soups and sandwiches, this new shop seemed a good fit to Myers and the signs are encouraging. Weekly sales are around the £6,000 mark, despite various restrictions, and this is fairly close to the £8,000 that the previous owners were doing pre-COVID. Gross margin sits at a promising 50% (Brighton’s is 40%), thanks to the foodservice sales. The space may have been fitted out exactly like the first shop – although the finishing of a mural featuring Barney himself will be completed later this year – but it is a very different kind of
business in terms of its offer. Myers is seeing crossover, with some customers now visiting both of her sites but the specific customer profile in Hove is something she is learning more about as she tests out various items on the shelves – having maintained a similar café menu by retaining the Black Radish’s chef. It seems the “yummy mummy” clientele prefer their vegan dips over an expanded range of cheese, on the retail side. Meanwhile, Myers has just procured a licence and is hiring a wine expert so that she can start putting on cheese & wine evenings there. This should prove useful as the shop works towards its full complement of 32 covers (half inside, half outside) when all COVID restrictions are lifted. You get the impression that Myers is energised for the next phase of Barney’s, both the foodservice at Hove and the increase in retail and online trade in Brighton. But FFD can’t help wondering if she’s got a taste for more expansion. “My mum would like me to open another one where she’s just moved to in Worthing,” she says. “I’d never say never but at the moment two’s enough to focus on.” barneysdeli.co.uk
The customer base is very varied. We get students, pensioners and hipsters
Vol.22 Issue 4 | May 2021
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GUILD TALK
View from HQ
By John Farrand managing director
THERE’S A TREMENDOUS irony to the fact that supermarkets seem to be (yet again) mimicking indies (see page 6) as we claw our way out of lockdown. It was only six months ago that they were doing very un-independent-retail things like claiming millions in furlough money and dropping artisan producers because it was simpler to deal with fewer, bigger suppliers. I could name several cheesemakers who are quite cross with their erstwhile multiple mates. They also trumped
news from the guild of fine food non-essential independents by continuing to sell non-essential items while the high street shops had to lock their doors. Consumers have re-discovered community, service and knowledge, and the fact that smaller stores are often safer. Add to this that delis and farm shops have had a sustainable agenda for years, just by the fact there is typically less packaging, more local producers and they benefit the local economy so much more. It is now slightly galling that the supermarkets are upping their game in both those departments, nicking our ideas while paying lip-service to our ethics in their advertising and social campaigns. Perhaps the one area the mults had us was on systems, safety and regs. Now we’re going to mimic them. This month sees the launch of the Guild’s Code of Practice for Deli Retailing, a considerable body of work that has taken us four years to research, write, technically check and approve. There’s more about it on page 9 but, in brief, it is your bullet-proof regime, enabling you to run a safe deli counter. It is not
The Word on Westminster By Edward Woodall ACS
THE INTRODUCTION OF the Policing, Crime Sentencing and Courts Bill in Parliament has refocused discussion about powers and resources available to the justice system to deal with crime. This is especially important for food retailers that have stayed open during the pandemic and seen a significant increase in the levels of confrontation from customers and incidents of violence and abuse against colleagues. Earlier this year, we launched our 2021 Crime Report which revealed that 89% of colleagues working in local shops have
experienced some form of abuse, with over 1.2million incidents recorded over the last year. Sadly, COVID-related abuse has become one of the biggest issues facing convenience retailers and is now one of the top triggers of violence in store. Against this background, we were proud to be asked by the Government to co-ordinate #ShopKind, a new campaign bringing together the whole of the retail sector and the Home Office with the aim of encouraging positive behaviour in stores and raising awareness about the scale and impact of abuse towards shopworkers. Hundreds of key names in the UK retail industry have come together for this campaign, urging the public to #ShopKind and treat shopworkers with
just a series of to-do lists; it will help you understand the science behind food & drink in its making, preparation, storage and selling. We’ll be communicating its content with the nation’s EHOs to promote better understanding all-round, making those inspections less contentious.
It is your bullet-proof regime, enabling you to run a safe deli counter It will create an altogether better environment for selling cheese and meats. Just add a dose of product knowledge and some retail theatre and you’ll be several steps ahead of the supermarkets. But, hold on, they’re closing their deli counters to sell more pre-pack as it’s easier. That is, of course, until their covert store managers visit your exemplar deli and decide to mimic it. kindness and respect. The campaign will be visible across high streets up and down the country and on social media to spread the message that our colleagues should be treated with kindness and respect. More information about the #ShopKind campaign, including how you can get involved, downloadable in-store posters and social media graphics can be found at nbcc.police.uk. Will this campaign end the violence and abuse that’s the scourge of our industry? No, but it will serve as a constant reminder that abusive behaviour towards retailers and shopworkers is unacceptable, should not be tolerated and must always be reported. Edward Woodall is head of policy & public affairs at small shops group ACS edward.woodall@acs.org.uk
Judging underway for Great Taste 2021 Judging for Great Taste 2021 has started with more than 1,500 products already judged out of a total of 14,113. The remaining products will be called in between now and early July. If you are a Great Taste entrant, you can now log in to your MyGuild account and view your delivery dates and location so that you can plan in advance. Further details will be sent 2-3 weeks prior to the deadline, including instructions on what to do if you have a short shelf life product. More information can be found online in your MyGuild account.
Primary Authority partnership The Guild of Fine Food has formed a co-ordinated Primary Authority partnership with Cornwall Council and together the two organisations have agreed a package of technical and regulatory advice, which is contained in the Deli Retailing Code of Practice. All Guild members are automatically opted into the Primary Authority partnership and therefore, if following the advice in The Code, have a level of protection from challenges raised against their processes and procedures. To opt out of the partnership, or to request your copy of the The Code, please email: support@ gff.co.uk.
The Guild of Fine Food represents fine food shops and specialist suppliers. Want to join them? GENERAL ENQUIRIES Guild of Fine Food Guild House, 23b Kingsmead Business Park, Shaftesbury Road, Gillingham, Dorset SP8 5FB UK Tel: +44 (0) 1747 825200 Fax: +44 (0) 1747 824065 info@gff.co.uk gff.co.uk
THE GUILD TEAM: Managing director: John Farrand Marketing director: Tortie Farrand Sales director: Sally Coley Operations director: Christabel Cairns
Sales manager: Ruth Debnam Sales executives: Becky Haskett Sam Coleman Membership, circulation & awards manager: Karen Price Operations manager: Claire Powell
Operations assistant: Meredith White Events manager: Stephanie Hare-Winton Marketing & events assistant: Sophie Brentnall Financial controller: Stephen Guppy Accounts manager: Denise Ballance
gff.co.uk Accounts assistant: Julie Coates Chairman: Bob Farrand Director: Linda Farrand
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