Florence News & Events: April 2015 by FLORENCENEWSEVENTS

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April 2015 PAGE 11

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Following Leonardo’s Florentine Steps

Power and Pathos Exhibit at Palazzo Strozzi

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Off the Beaten Path: Discovering Oltrarno

Visiting the French Riviera with Bus2Alps

April Greats EUGENIO GIANI

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In the classic Florentine song ‘Mattinata Fiorentina,’ April is personified as a gentlemanly heart-throb who steals the hearts of Florentine ladies at Cascine Park. It is not our intention, however, to steal the scene from this somewhat well-regarded ‘thief’, to whom we should actually apologize for the unmasking and instead release to continue pursuing his mission in the best way that he can. April marks the death of one of the great symbols of Florence: the artist who, together with Donatello

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IGNITING FLORENCE White Night on April 30 sparks a long series of summer evenings

Florence once again hosts its all-night, open-air festival this month that, come sunset, turns streets and squares into stages for live shows and concerts. Organized by the City of Florence, White Night (La Notte Bianca) takes place on April 30 with a series of art installations, film screenings, readings, tours and free nocturnal access to museums. The theme of this year’s White Night is ‘The City Continues,’ encouraging the idea of Florence as a city without boundaries, a

global meeting place, in contrast to the common perception of Florence as an insular museum city. It also plays with the twotone theme of black and white, focusing on live music drawn from African-American culture, such as blues, jazz, funk, gospel and reggae. Undoubtedly, a feeling of cultural vitality fills the streets of Florence during White Night. Restaurants and bars remain open until late, and children are catered for with a separate program that includes theater,

workshops and tours starting in the afternoon. The event sets the tone for a long Florentine summer: nights filled with a modern, inclusive and lively feel of multiculturalism and solidarity alongside art and music, amidst the usual arguments about the city’s too-loud nightlife scene. With White Night the city makes an effort to gather people together: those willing to share different cultures, histories and entertainment. Florence is ready to begin.

Liberation Month NATALIA PIOMBINO What’s the point of celebrating Liberation Day, the end of WWII and the Nazi occupation in Italy, today? In 2011, on the occasion of the celebration of the 150th anniversary of the birth of the Italian state, as many recalled the Risorgimento, the historical process that led to Italy’s unification, it became evident that the values of honor, sanctity, and family that inspired this nation-building movement could not be considered today as the foundation of Italians’ sense of belonging. Continued on Page 9

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Uffizi Showcases Gerrit van Honthorst

Ancient Greek Bronzes on Display

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VIRGINIA WRIGHT The Uffizi Gallery has opened the tenth edition of Un Anno ad Arte (A Year in Art) with the first-ever monographic exhibition devoted to Gerrit van Honthorst, Gherardo delle Notti: Most bizarre paintings and merry suppers, which is on display until May 24. A Caravaggesque painter from Holland, van Honthorst was better known to the public as ‘Gherardo delle Notti’ for his love of painting nocturnal scenes. He lived in Italy for nearly 10 years before departing to his native Utrecht in 1620. His years in Italy, during which he joined Caravaggio’s naturalistic revolution, proved to be the most innovative and stylistic of his career. Van Honthorst gained fame throughout Italy and his work adorned important altars, a rarity for naturalistic painters. Grand

Duke Cosimo II was inspired to collect some of his paintings, which is why today the Uffizi boasts five works by the artist, including The Adoration of the Shepherds, which was severely damaged in the mafia car bomb attack of 1993. The exhibition displays paintings from some of van Honthorst’s biggest influences and followers, in addition to his most famous works. The National Gallery in London, Berlin State Museums, the Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg and many others have granted loans for this exhibit.

Gherardo delle Notti: Most bizarre paintings and merry suppers Until May 24 Uffizi Gallery Tues. – Sun.: 8:15 a.m.–6:50 p.m. www.uffizi.firenze.it

Palazzo Strozzi hosts Power and Pathos

Palazzo Strozzi is hosting the exhibit Power and Pathos until June 21. Organized by the Palazzo Strozzi Foundation in collaboration with the J. Paul Getty Museum, the Los Angeles and National Gallery of Art in Washington and the Superintendence for the Archaeological Heritage of Tuscany, the exhibit showcases some of the ancient world’s most important sculptural masterpieces. Sculptures are drawn from leading Italian and international museums and include 50 bronzes that trace artistic development during the Hellenistic era. Hellenistic sculpture saw the birth of a genre known as ‘portraits of power,’ at the same time it revolutionized the style of Classical art by imbuing its figures with pathos. Monumental statues of gods, athletes and heroes are on display

alongside portraits of historical figures, and a newly restored bronze sculpture of a horse’s head dating back to 350 BCE once owned by Lorenzo the Magnificent, which is on display after lingering for more than a century in storage at the Archaeological Museum of Florence. Power and Pathos allows visitors to explore the fascinating stories behind the discovery of these works and learn about production, casting and finishing techniques.

Power and Pathos: Bronze Sculpture of the Hellenistic World Until June 21 Palazzo Strozzi Open daily: 10 a.m.–8 p.m. (until 11 p.m. every Thursday) www.palazzostrozzi.org

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Siena Duomo Reopens ‘Stairway to Heaven’

Siena’s Duomo will re-open its series of spiral staircases named the ‘Stairway to Heaven’ from March 9 through October 31 for guided tours and the adjoining Piccolomini Library. The thirteenth-century cathedral, known for its black-andwhite stripes, first gave the public access to a walkway near the top of the 16-metre nave in 2013. The elevated visiting area provides an exceptional view of the ornate mosaic floor that was created by close to 40 artists from the fourteenth to the sixteenth centuries.

The floor’s design includes 56 hexagonal, rectangular and rhombus shaped panels that depict pictures of the sibyls, allegories and virtues, and scenes from the Old Testament. The staircase also allows visitors to clearly see the cathedral’s hexagonal dome with its trompe l’oeil coffers painted in blue with golden stars and topped with Bernini’s gilded lantern. The Gothic cathedral, built between 1215 and 1263, is home to many works of art including pieces by Donatello and Michelangelo.

Behave in Front of Art

Uffizi reinforces selfie-stick prohibition The Uffizi Gallery directorate confirmed last month that the use of selfie sticks is forbidden inside the museum. Although the rule was introduced in October 2014, it has been reinforced, possibly due to the irreverent shots published by American singer Katy Perry in front of Botticelli’s Birth of Venus at the museum and Michelangelo’s David at the Accademia Gallery, although

the use of a selfie stick was not confirmed in these instances. The prohibition of selfie-stick use is clearly indicated alongside the museum’s code of behavior close to the ticket office. In recent times, the use of selfie sticks has been banned in several important museums all over the world, including MoMa and the Metropolitan Museum of Art in the US.

The Middle Ages on the Road on Display at the Bargello

Divided in five sections and the result of a collaboration between the Bargello National Museum, Musée de Cluny in Paris, the Schnütgen Museum of Cologne and Catalonia’s Episcopal Museum of Vic, the exhibition The Middle Ages on the Road explores travelling in the medieval period. The first section of the exhibit explores the boundaries and perceptions of the known world during the Middle Ages through a series of maps dating back to the twelfth century, and, in particular, how the world was perceived from Florence at that time. The maps showcased present the routes followed primarily by merchants, as well as other kind of travellers, while the dangers of

sea travel are evoked through an iconographic section and the display of ancient navigation tools. The second part is dedicated to presenting the different types of medieval pilgrims, including their travel garments, instruments, and the badges ‘conquered’ depending on the destinations reached, and also presents direct accounts by the Crusaders. A third section documents land and sea travels through small objects, followed by an examination of the theme of travel made for business or political purposes, such as the missions undertaken by diplomats, messengers and ambassadors, with the display of various instruments necessary for such tasks, including document

folders, trading cards and letters of exchange. The final part of the exhibition focuses on the short trips made by royalty and aristocrats, together with their entourage, to visit their domains or properties; in short, trips that were simply a demonstration of power.

The Middle Ages on the Road Until June 21 Bargello National Museum Mon – Sun: 8:15 a.m.–1:50 p.m. Cost: €4 055 23 88 606 info@polomuseale.firenze.it www.polomuseale.firenze.it

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Mentana Art Gallery Presents Contempor-Arte Exhibit

Mentana Art Gallery of Florence presents the exhibition Contempor-Arte until April 15 and focusses on the visual arts. Organized by the gallery’s artistic director Giovanna Laura Adreani, it displays works by contemporary artists from all over the world, includ-

ing Gonzalo Sanchez, Marta Motti, Laura Corti, Mauro Piccoli, Eduardo Roca Salazar (‘Choco’), Tonino Giampà, Doris Broder Jakob, Jesse, Marion Duschletta, Freya Kazemi, and Daniele Vannucci. The gallery also presents Art-Invest, a formula to invest in art by purchasing works by renowned contemprary artists such as Ugo Nespolo, Alessandro Mazzoleni, Salvatore Magazzini, Gianpaolo Talani, Luigi De Giovanni, Sergio Benvenuti, Franco Lastraioli, Rosario Bellante and many others.

Mentana Art Gallery Piazza Mentana, 2–3/r 055 21 19 85 • 335 120 71 56 galleriamentana@galleriamentana.it www.galleriamentana.it

Romanelli Gallery Offers Sculpture Workshops

Heir to five generations of sculptors, Raffaello Romanelli specializes in portraiture and opens his family atelier to individual and group lessons. As it happened in the past, when young boys used to attend the atelier of the master to learn his precious secrets (this was called andare a bottega), Studio Galleria Romanelli revives such tradition by offering sculpture classes. Raffaello guides the students through learning the basic technique of modeling a realistic subject in clay. The traditional ‘sightsize method’ trains the eyes to

measure the proportions and volumes of the figure. At the Romanelli Gallery it is possible to learn how to prepare artworks for kiln firing as well as the molding technique to cast it in plaster. The studio offers weekly courses, from Monday to Friday, as well as part-time courses or single lessons. Each class lasts three hours and takes place in the historical atelier in Borgo San Frediano, in the Oltrarno district. Participants can agree the program and the schedule of classes with the teacher. Classes are open to beginners as well.

Jiří Kolář: A Workshop of Imagination on Display in Prato

An intellectual both cosmopolitan and enduringly grafted into the history and traditions at the root of contemporary Europe; a masterful interpreter of that cultural disquiet that signified the twentieth century, Jiří Kolář is the protagonist of a noteworthy exhibition event at the Museo di Pittura Murale in San Domenico and Galleria Open Art, both of Prato. Curated by Francesca Pola and Mauro Stefanini, produced in cooperation with Galleria Open Art and showing more than 150 works, the exhibition is the first wide-ranging retrospective to be dedicated to Kolář in Italy since his death in 2002. The exhibition aims to present his creative language in all its extraordinary topicality and fresh inventiveness. For Kolář, images are the ideal substrate on which to condense the complexity of human thought: it is on this grate that fragments and traces of culture, art and communication catch and mix – talking fractals of the landscape of the world. He builds them according to a canon of destruction, by radical techniques harking back to the

practice of collage, inflected in an almost inexhaustible proliferation of operational variants. He catches the nuances of the ‘becoming’ of the world itself, its dynamics of union and separation; composition and conflict; to regenerate over and over again. This is the art of Jiři Kolář: A Workshop of Imagination that opens its doors and lays out for our view – with crystalline exactitude and inexhaustible abundance – the pages of the rhythm of life itself, the authentic and profound sighing breath of the world. On occasion of the exhibition, Carlo Cambi Editore is publishing a 300-page monograph edited by Francesca Pola: a comprehensive, careful and detailed historic-artistic contextualisation that unites a highly emblematic corpus of works with many texts by the artist and period documents, in the interests of achieving a new and more complete reading of Kolář’s art. Among these documents is previously unpublished material on the artist’s solo exhibitions at the Museum Haus Lange of Krefeld (1973), at the

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Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum of New York (1975) and at the Museo Nacional Reina Sofìa of Madrid (1996), exhibitions that were crucial to Kolář’s life in art; the Prato retrospective presents some of the most significant works exhibited by the artist on those occasions. In collaboration with the Archivio Jiří Kolář. Under the auspices of the Comune of Prato and Honorary Consulate of Czech Republic for Tuscany.

Museo di Pittura Murale in San Domenico Piazza San Domenico, 8, Prato 0574 440 501 Mon-Sun: 2–8 p.m. (closed on Tuesdays) www.diocesiprato.it

Open Art Gallery Viale della Repubblica, 24, Prato Mon – Fri: 3–7:30 p.m.; Sat: 10:30 a.m.–12:30 p.m. and 3–7:30 p.m. Closed on Sundays and feast days 0574 538 003 www.openart.it Free admission

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Uffizi ‘Hermaphrodite’ Room Reopens with New Ligozzi

Dante Flies into Space

LAPO GUIDOTTI

Astronaut Samantha Cristoforetti will read and interpret verses from Dante’s Divine Comedy from the ESA international space station, which are then going to be broadcast on the evening of April 24 at the Odeon Cinema in Florence. The initiative is one of the many organized by the Società Dantesca Italiana for the 750th anniversary celebrations of Dante’s birth. Other initiatives include the reading of Canto XXIV from the Inferno by Michele Placido on May 5 in the Baptistery and Canto XXIV of Paradise by Italian actor Gianmarco

Tognazzi. From April 15 to May 15, 100 shops in the historic center of Florence each present a reproduction of a page of the Divine Comedy in their windows. Dante’s birthday is also being commemorated with the issue of a new €2 coin that will be circulation by the end of 2015, the Italian Treasury Department has announced. Another €2 coin will be dedicated to Milan Expo 2015. The coins, which will be issued only in Italy, will be accepted throughout the Eurozone.

Ryanair Grounds Plans for Low-Cost Transatlantic Flights

Ryanair announced last month that it will not offer low-cost transatlantic flights as rumors previously indicated. The company also said that such flights will not be offered for years. “In the light of recent press coverage, the Board of Ryanair Holdings Plc wishes to clarify that it has not considered or approved any transatlantic project and does not intend to do so,” the company announced in a statement. “Ryanair has a history of making

bulls**t announcements; Michael O’Leary every couple of months would claim he was about to do paid toilets. Ryanair does this stuff to get publicity. More shame on the reporters who take anything Ryanair SAYS seriously. The only thing you can take seriously about Ryanair is what they DO, ” said airline expert Joe Brancatelli to Yahoo Travel in an email. Cheap flights across the ocean seem destined to remain a pipe dream for passengers.

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The so-called ‘Hermaphrodite Room’ at the Uffizi Gallery, named after its Roman copy of an Greek statue, has re-opened to public with an important novelty: a new Jacopo Ligozzi painting on display. The room was closed last fall to be renovated. Titled The Allegory of Virtue: Love Defending Virtue against Ignorance and Prejudice, the 11-foot Ligozzi painting is inspired by the taste and culture of Francesco I de’ Medici. The painting was sold in 1720 and, after several transferrals, it passed to an art seller, who donated it to the Uffizi Gallery in 2014. The artwork is hung together with

other paintings relevant to the spirit of Francesco I, including a 1570 portrait of him by a Florentine artist and a pendant portrait depicting Gabrielle d’Estrées with one of her sisters, a lyrical example of refined sensibility from the École de Fontainebleau. Born in Verona in 1547, Jacopo Ligozzi was favored by several Medici patrons in Florence, and made his name as a successful painter, illustrator, designer and miniaturist. The renovation has been funded by the Amici degli Uffizi association, which included the gallery being repainted in crimson red to emphasize its historical link to the Medici collections.

Sugar Sculptures on Display

Dolci Trionfi e Finissime Piegature exhibit at Palazzo Pitti

The exhibition Dolci Trionfi e Finissime Piegature: Sculture in zucchero e tovaglioli per le nozze fiorentine di Maria de’ Medici is on display at Palazzo Pitti until June 7.

Curated by Giovanna Giusti and Riccardo Spinelli, the exhibit aims to re-create the famous banquet held in Palazzo Vecchio on the evening of October 5, 1600, created by some of the most influential Florentine sculptors of the time on the occasion of the proxy wedding of Maria de’ Medici and Henry IV, King of France, which was celebrated in Florence. That day the most established artists of the period, including Michelangelo Buonarroti il Giovane (to whose account we owe detailed knowledge of the event), Bernardo Buontalenti, Giambologna, Pietro Tacca and Gasparo Mola, showcased some of the most famous

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sculptures of the time made of sugar instead of bronze. Michelangelo’s account describes decorative food, real pieces of art, and tablecloths and napkins shaped as sculptures. Among the statues that most impressed Maria de’ Medici and Henry IV were the sugar sculptures representing Henry IV himself riding a horse, which was 115cm height, and those inspired by the Labours of Hercules. Dolci Trionfi e Finissime Piegature evokes that magnificent day of feasting, glory and international tribute received by Florentine artists, and is one of the city’s events being displayed at Milan Expo.

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Picasso Confiscated

Pompeii’s Villa of the Mysteries Reopens

An Italian police task force dedi- lion too low, and promptly confiscated to solving art crimes recent- cated it. ly recovered a painting by Picasso “The destiny of the Picasso paintworth €15 million. Entitled Violin ing depends on the outcome of and Bottle of Bass, it has been in the judicial investigations,” said Dario possession of a Roman pensioner Franceschini, Minister for Culture. for 40 years, who was unaware of The artwork has been authenticatits value until recently. ed as a 1912 work belonging to the Italian police became suspicious artist’s Cubist period. Police also when the painting’s owner went recovered a Roman statue reprethrough official channels to have senting the god Mithras in the act the painting exported so that it of killing a bull with an estimated could be sold at auction, consider- value of €8 million as part of the ing its declared value of €1.4 mil- same operation.

Pompeii’s largest house, the Villa of the Mysteries, was reopened to public last month after a two-year restoration and a three-month closure for work on its paving. The restoration, which involved 17 rooms and was made in segments

so that parts of the villa were still open to the public throughout the restoration process, corrected some of the damage inflicted by previous restoration techniques that were found to be harmful to the villa’s frescoes over the years.

Famous for its frescoes depicting the cult of Bacchus, the Villa of the Mysteries was discovered in 1909. It was exceptionally well-preserved despite the eruption of Vesuvius, which covered it in a layer of more than 30 feet of ash.

Going Crazy for Italian Design

Vintage Topolino auctioned for more than $52,000

Four Fountains Reopen in Rome

Rome’s famous Four Fountains complex, located near the Quirinal Palace, re-opened to the public after nine months of cleaning that cost €320,000. The restoration was sponsored by Italian fashion house Fendi as part of its €2.5 million ‘Fendi for Fountains’ project, which is also working to clean the Trevi Fountain. The conservation of the fountains is difficult and has utilized hydraulics and LED lights

due to the years of accumulated filth. “The intervention was extremely complex because the layer [of dirt] deposited on the monument was very resistant,” city Superintendent for Cultural Heritage Claudio Parisi Presicce said. The Four Fountains complex was created in the late Renaissance by Pietro Paolo Olivieri and portrays the river gods Arno and Tiber and the goddesses Juno and Diana.

Not just Italy’s most famous brands such as Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati or Alfa Romeo, but also compact cars such as Fiat seem to have now become the object of desire for car collectors.

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Indeed, at a recent auction sale in Florida, a 1952 Fiat Topolino was purchased by an American collector for $52,250 in what could be considered a late tribute to Italian design, as another Topolino in the

same condition was sold at an auction in Belgium for a mere €5,520 in October 2014. The Topolino, an affectionate name for the Fiat 500, was manufactured between 1936 and 1955. Only 520,000 were made, and its diminutive size and sleek line have since made it an iconic symbol of Italy; it is said to have replaced the Aston Martin in the upcoming James Bond film Spectre scheduled for release in 2015. However, in the same Florida auction where the Topolino value increased tenfold, a 1960 Ferrari 400 Superamerica SWB Cabriolet designed by car stylist Pinin Farina was bought for $6.38 million. It seems that the Topolino still has a long way to go.

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LITERATURE

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Revisiting Forster’s Florence: Charmingly Misanthropic Satire

LEE FOUST One hundred and five years after the publishing of A Room with a View: The city of Florence, its many Anglo-Saxon tourists, their illogical and unhealthy social norms, and even walks in the violet-bestrewn hills between Settignano and Fiesole are still with us. Gone are most of Florence’s horse-drawn carriages, casual stabbings in the Piazza della Signoria, and Baedeker’s travel guides. Still, E. M. Forster’s self-proclaimed “nicest novel” abides. A century on, his satirical romance novel is still well worth a read, its message of accepting the clear light of one’s true desires over the muddle of middle-class conformity as powerful as ever. If you’re like me, perhaps you harbor the mistaken idea that A Room with a View is a mere prototype of

the kind of insipid romance abroad film that one who dabbles in travel or loves Europe frequently has fostered upon one by well-meaning friends. Actually, the satirical element shines brightest in Forster’s novel, the view itself symbolic of an escape from the narrow-mindedness of late-Victorian social mores. I laughed out loud frequently at the novel’s witticisms—all of them at its stuffy, upper-class characters’ expense. I will also admit to shedding tears at Mr. Emerson’s heartfelt speech to Lucy Honeychurch in the penultimate chapter—it’s the finest literary expression I can remember of the “follow your heart” sentiment that is so overdone in insipid memes of the Hallmark school of turning all that is human into an appealing slogan for some Me Generation or other.

On the critical side, for a novel aimed at corroding the slim parameters of narrow-mindedness and convention, its view is rather less than broad. The Italian characters, from whom we might expect something grand or wise, either in words or deeds, since they people a country so transformative as the Italy presented us, are given the usual British literary treatment—they rut like dogs and stab each other like banditti. Neither the servants nor any working-class characters get any attention at all, except for the Cockney Signora who runs the Pensione Bertolini. Her character represents perhaps the one interesting modern aspect of the narrative—could it be that abroad, in turn-of-the-century Florence, her risible and uncouth accent was not an impediment to social mobility?

Still, the general impression of the novel is that no one works, need work, or ever worries about money at all—a pretty picture postcard from the Downton Abbey set, featuring the scenic Arno, sent to a fellow toff. Do read the novel, however, as the Merchant/Ivory film of 1985, despite sporting the best supporting cast since Casablanca, is rather lacking, mostly in getting at the piquant social satire of the piece. Daniel Day-Lewis steals the movie as the priggish aesthete Mr. Vyse, Dame Judy Dench and Maggie Smith are each delightful as Miss Lavish and Bartlett respectively—and doubly so in their scenes together. The unheralded Denholm Elliott is an inspired bit of casting as earnest Mr. Emerson, and Julian Sands makes a handsome and believable George. Sadly, there were no actresses available for the central role of Lucy Honeychurch so we are forced to watch Helena Bonham Carter stand around looking dazed and confused for 117 minutes. It’s rather like watching a terrific band playing behind a tone-deaf lead singer. Well, Meryl Streep can’t be in them all. Lee Foust is a fiction writer and performer from Oakland, California who teaches literature and creative writing at various US universities in Florence. He is the author of Sojourner, a collection of stories and poems about the mystery of place, and the forthcoming Poison and Antidote, nine Bohemian tales of San Francisco during the Reagan era. Read more from Lee at www.leefoust.com.

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Florence in the Blogosphere LEE FOUST While Milan has recently been named “City of the Book and of Reading 2015” to coincide with the Expo 2015 world’s fair, over the course of the last year Florence’s artists and literati have rather carved a niche for themselves on the internet. Expatriate visual artists and writers have exploded into the blogosphere with a smorgasbord of websites and Facebook pages. Integrating artistic workshops, studio visits, literature and literary events, self-promotion, humor, interviews, and information to help newcomers to the city navigate everything from where to eat cheaply to how to deal with marriage: Italian style, the artistic Florentine expat blogosphere is well established. Seems like it all started with a Facebook group page called Creative People in Florence (www.facebook. com/groups/318589264834446) and, as I write this, the group has just exceeded 15,000 members! Creative People has also grown into a lovely blog (creativepeopleinf lorence.wordpress.com) with a monthly calendar, an-

nouncements of workshops for those who want to learn the arts from professional practitioners, studio visits and openings, a directory of artists and writers of all types, and spotlights—pages given to locals to present themselves and what they do. (I blush to report that I was honored to pen the very first spotlight about my own work and why I self-publish.) Brainchild of artist and jewelry designer Sara Amrhein and photographer Birgitte Brønsted (later joined by visual artist Anna Rose), the Creative People group also sponsors a get-together aperativo three or four times a year—a wonderful moment to enjoy a drink and a schmooze with fellow artistic expats and native Florentines. Straight outta the Creative People collective, Nardia Plumridge’s slick and informative blog Lost in Florence (www.lostinflorence.it) acts as a gorgeous introduction to Florence for hungry and thirsty expats. It features dining tips, watering hole suggestions, secret places to visit, and profiles of local artists and artisans. Similarly, Georgette Jupe’s Girl in Florence (girlinflorence.com) gives you the lay of the

land cuisine-wise and a series of interviews with “Locals I Love” from another committed, Florence-loving expat from the Lone Star State. Since this is supposed to be a literary column, allow me to introduce you to Florence Writers, its Facebook page (www.facebook. com/Florencewritersitaly) and the group’s excellent blogists. Florence Writers is the brainchild of Mundy Walsh and sponsored by St. Mark’s church as part of their community outreach program (which also includes concerts and lectures) and, besides its informative Facebook page, hosts a series of readings/ encounters with writers in the fall and spring, and has a workshop group that meets once a week to critique one another’s latest works and to keep up morale in the lonely business of putting pen to paper. (Write to Mundy directly for more details: administrator@stmarksitaly.com) Mundy, along with poet and bookarts professional Lyall Harris, also edits The Sigh Press (thesighpress. com) a themed, quarterly literary journal featuring English-language poems and fiction from Tus-

cany. Check out the submissions page for this quarter’s theme and the next submission deadline. Besides Mundy’s journal and my own humble presence in the group (www.leefoust.com/index.html), The Florence Writers have three literary blogists of note. M. Elizabeth Evan’s Surviving in Italy (survivinginitaly.com) is my personal favorite Florentine expat site—not because she is a former creative writing student of mine or because she is a dear friend, but rather because she is such a great writer. Surviving in Italy is mostly whimsical and self-revelatory, therefore often raunchy and hilarious. Misty’s candor, combined with a sharp intellect and her keen observations regarding the interactions of us expats with the Italian/Florentine worldview creates an informative and thoughtful look at the expatriate experience—one very close to my own. The death threats in the comments section are a testament to how Misty’s tellin’ it like it is! Lest I be accused of singling out expats from the English-speaking world only, allow me to give a shout-out to Romanian-born Ela Vasilescu’s blog and Facebook

page Writer in Florence (writerinflorence.com). Ela is a short story writer of extraordinary power who also teaches storytelling strategies to English-speaking children and whose blog is more personal and reflective than travelogue-ish. She, too, posts her interviews of local artists and expats, but is currently in the middle of a project inspired by those photographers who snap a single subject every day for a calendar year: “365 Days of my Life.” I’ve grown so accustomed to Ela’s daily ruminations that I’m sure to feel empty and sad when the year is up. The latest addition to our Florence Writers group is Marisa Garreffa, a perky Perth-born Aussie who comes from the theatre milieu of, as she puts it, “the world’s most remote city.” Marisa’s personal site, A Curious Illness, (acuriousillness.com) features occasional texts both thoughtful and personal, as well as excerpts from the memoir upon which she is currently working—fasten your seatbelts before reading, she hits hardest on the toughest subjects. You can also get a look at her theatrical accomplishments at Mondo di Corpo (mondodicorpo.com.au).

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April Greats EUGENIO GIANI Continued from front page In the classic Florentine song ‘Mattinata Fiorentina,’ April is personified as a gentlemanly heart-throb who steals the hearts of Florentine ladies at Cascine Park. It is not our intention, however, to steal the scene from this somewhat well-regarded ‘thief’, to whom we should actually apologize for the unmasking and instead release to continue pursuing his mission in the best way that he can. April marks the death of one of the great symbols of Florence: the artist who, together with Donatello and Masaccio, is considered the ‘father’ of the Renaissance. Filippo Brunelleschi left us on April 16, 1446. Also regarded as the father of modern architecture, Brunelleschi completed the cupola of the Duomo, a work of revolutionary artistic engineering that became a symbol of the power that the city had reached; today a symbol of the magnificence of the past. Brunelleschi died at 69 and was, of course, buried inside the Duomo. April also marks the anniversary of the Pazzi Conspiracy, which took place on April 26, 1478. It was Easter Sunday when two killers hired by the Pazzi family, rival of the Medici, stabbed Lorenzo’s brother Giuliano to death during High Mass at the Duomo. That day Giuliano had arrived at church late because he was feeling unwell and

therefore did not sit next to Lorenzo as expected. This probably disoriented the conspirators, who still tried to kill Lorenzo but unsuccessfully. Lorenzo’s assigned killer, Giovan Battista da Montesecco, refused to attack his victim at the last moment because he did not want to kill inside a church. Lorenzo owed his life to that of his best friend, Francesco Nori, who protected him with his body from the two assailants that had just killed Giuliano. Francesco died, while Lorenzo was merely wounded. After the conspiracy the Florentine population sided with the Medici, and Lorenzo’s vengeance was terrible, proportionate to the love he had for his brother. April also marks the anniversary of death of Frederick Stibbert, founder of the Stibbert Museum, who died on April 10, 1906, and of Filippino Lippi, who left us on April 18, 1504. A brilliant businessman and traveller, Stibbert was the father of the culture of antiques that gained momentum in the twentieth century, while Filippino Lippi was the talented artist who left us his legacy in the completion of the Brancacci Chapel, begun by Masolino and Masaccio more than 50 years earlier. And finally, to America. It was April 17, 1524, when Giovanni da Verrazzano, a sailor born in Greve in Chianti, the town capital of Chianti wine, wrote down on his diary the first-ever description of what the indigenous inhabitant were calling ‘Manhattan.’

Liberation Month NATALIA PIOMBINO Continued from front page On the other hand, in the wake of Habermas’ thought, a ‘constitutional patriotism’ (that is, the need to identify the Republican Constitution as the source of our allegiance to the nation), seems closer to our sensibilities. This constitutional pact is therefore that which unites us and the ethics of anti-Fascism represent a ‘civic religion’ that in turn makes us a community. At least from the early ‘90s (a period when there was a strong request for pacification of national memory), anti-Fascism and the Resistance were the subjects of revisionist interpretations that considered anti-Fascist partisans and RSI Fascist fighters patriots in the same way. Furthermore, this revisionism has also attempted to undermine the concept of anti-Fascism as the source of national identity and sentiment. Instead, anti-Fascism should be emphasized as not only an integral part of the Italian Constitution, but as its fundamental feature, its bedrock. Today, our Constitution is understood as the fruits of the remarkable, visionary capacity of the Republic’s founding fathers. Within it, there are references to concepts such as ‘social utility,’ and ‘social purpose;’ concepts proclaiming the superiority of the general interest of the public and the con-

figuration of a state whose guiding principle is constituted by bene comune, or common good. The fundamental rights (beni comuni) indicated within the Constitution as those deserving protection, include labor, health, education, equality and liberty, namely all ‘goods’ that affect each of us. It is therefore evident that the attacks on the Constitution and its cardinal principles impact us all. The Constitution most certainly needs to be upheld, yet not in a manner that distorts its guiding principles, but instead in a way in which these principles are implemented. Unfortunately, the amendments to the Constitution that have been proposed and advocated by several factions (one example being the hypotheses of presidentialism) tend to erode – behind a veneer of efficiency – the democratic equilibrium that the document outlined and to prefigure an authoritarian drift. In other instances, such revisions resulted in a relinquishment of sovereignty in favour of supernational entities, as has recently occurred (in the realm of control of our public finances) with the amendment of ART.81. Revisionism and negationism have made it possible to underestimate the threat of Fascism and have allowed the diffusion of a dangerous belief pertaining to the existence of a ‘good’ or ‘acceptable’ Fascism; this has thus paved the way for associations like Casa Pound – a fascist, xenophobic and sexist association – which has opened

headquarters in many Italian cities including Florence, where, in December 2012, an activist associated with Casa Pound shot and killed Modou Samb and Mor Diop and wounded three other members of the city’s Senegalese community. A ‘constitutional patriotism,’ a patriotism that entails inclusion without homologation, can be an antidote to the anti-liberal, anti-union, and xenophobic currents that have infiltrated our society. In fact, the link between April 25 – that is to say anti-Fascism – and the Constitution is inseparable. It’s not by chance that the legal scholar Piero Calamandrei asserted that our Constitution was born in the mountains, a product of the partisan struggle against Fascism. April 25 embodies the re-foundation of Italy thanks to the Resistance; the best part of the country – that for once emerged victorious – sought a more just, democratic society and found later, in the Constitution, the codification of its vision of civic life and its own conception of citizenship. In Florence, the ANPI (National Association of Italian Partisans), college students, and the Circolo ARCI S. Nicolò, have for many years organized an ‘anti-Fascist’ lunch in a city square on April 25. Far from rhetorical celebrations, these lunches present an opportunity for a festive gathering, an occasion to reclaim public space and promote the idea of active citizenship centered on the idea of the common good.

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Realizing Leonardo’s Projects

Exhibit showcases working models of da Vinci’s designs, as museum hits 10th anniversary

LUCY DAVID

A family of Florentine craftsmen has discovered previously unknown theorems hidden in Leonardo’s mechanical designs, shedding light on the full scope of his genius. Carlo Niccolai and his son Gabriele have spent decades constructing working models of Leonardo’s inventions through close study of his famous codices. In collaboration with a team of specialists, the Niccolai family re-creates the designs using materials such as wood, rope, fabric and metal that date back to the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. The rigor of practical and mechanical tests carried out on each model has given rise to a number of insights into Leonardo’s approach and surprisingly modern grasp of technology, such as his famous ‘robot’, which was originally believed to have been designed as an armored robotic knight. However, during laboratory tests the robot was discovered to be limited in its upper body movement and instead possess flexible wrists adapted to drumming, and is now believed to have been designed for use in parades and ceremonies. In his studies for a European Commission-sponsored exhibition of the machines in Brussels earlier this year, Gabriele Niccolai noted how Leonardo appears to have deliberately scattered the mechanical components required to create his inventions over several different pages of his codices, allowing artisans to create individual ele-

ments but preventing their understanding of the machine as a whole. This may be due in part to the fact that Leonardo’s codices have been split up and reassembled over the years – sculptor Pompeo Leoni took the liberty of cutting and dividing several of the codices into scientific and artistic categories in the seventeenth century – however such a practice would have also safeguarded his inventions during times of war. Leonardo’s catapult design in the Atlantic Codex is rendered useless without details of its ballistic adjustments, which are found in a different part of the codex as a series of self-locking mechanisms. A deeper understanding of Leonardo’s codices has revealed that many of his technological innovations rested upon those of his engineering predecessors, such as Brunelleschi, Vitruvius, Heron of Alexandria and Archimedes of Syracuse, which Leonardo adapt-

ed to his own context. His modification of a mechanism based on a description found in Herodotus and believed to have been used for building the pyramids surpassed all expectations when Niccolai created its working model in 2011: a 300kg concrete block was so reduced in weight that a six-year-old child was able to lift it. The Niccolai family has been reconstructing working models of Leonardo’s designs since 1995, when Carlo Niccolai dedicated himself to the work full-time in a desire to realise Leonardo’s legacy. His passion founded the Niccolai Collection, the largest private collection of Leonardo models in the world, comprising more than 300 working models created by himself and his sons, together with a team of artisans, engineers, historians and architects. The models have been displayed at more than 100 international exhibitions throughout Europe and as

far afield as Australia, New Zealand, China, the US, Brazil, Saudi Arabia and Finland. More than 50 working models are on permanent display at The Machines of Leonardo da Vinci exhibit at Galleria Michelangiolo in Via Cavour. Here visitors have the chance to not only observe but also interact with various prototypes, such as the aerial screw used in today’s helicopters, alongside a scuba-diving apparatus, glider, bicycle, tank and missiles; and view reconstructions of Leonardo’s studies of anatomy. The exhibit also displays copies of six codices, in which the visitor can view the sketches that reveal the workings of the great man’s mind. The Niccolai family has been widely praised for its ongoing devotion to realising the vast inheritance that Leonardo left to science. Professor Carlo Pedretti, director of the Armand Hammer Center for Leonardo Studies at the University

of California, says, “Carlo Niccolai is an admirable figure, a talented craftsman who has developed his own way in studying the technological level reached by Leonardo da Vinci. Moreover, he is a person gifted with great simplicity and humility. His work is important to scholars because it helps our theories and contributes to study indepth Leonardo’s machines and all the technological discoveries made at that time.” Indeed, as Bill Gates’ $30 million purchase of the Leicester Codex indicates, we have much to be grateful to Leonardo for: next time your car gets a flat tire, you can thank Leonardo for inventing the jack. Leonardo da Vinci invented or modified several of the technological designs we associate with the twentieth century. Leonardo’s designs on display include the aerial screw (used in today’s helicopters), human robot, hydraulic drill, scuba-diving apparatus, hang glider, tank, missiles, bicycle, floodlight, lifebuoy and jack.

The Machines of Leonardo da Vinci Michelangiolo Gallery Via Cavour, 21 Open daily: 9:30 a.m – 7:30 p.m. Cost: €7 (full price); €5 (reduced); €3 (groups of 15 or more). Entrance, snack and drink promotion: €8 (between 11 a.m. & 4 p.m.). 055 295 264 info@macchinedileonardo.com www.macchinedileonardo.com

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Following Leonardo’s Florentine Steps

CHIAR A BECCHETTI To commemorate Leonardo da Vinci’s birthday on April 15, why not trace his footsteps in and around Florence? Leonardo’s journey begins in Vinci, a municipality near Florence, framed spectacularly within the Tuscan countryside, in which everything seems to bear the name of Leonardo: the house where he was born, the church where he was baptized, the museum institutions that carry out the research and publish his cultural legacy. The Leonardiano Museum is located in Vinci, displaying works of art, exhibitions, pieces that recon-

struct the life of the genius, and offering a series of workshops. About 3km from Vinci, in the small town of Anchiano, Leonardo’s birthplace represents a natural segue after a visit to the Leonardiano Museum. The home is situated in the beautiful landscape that is probably very similar to that which Leonardo contemplated and sketched from childhood. Vinci also offers a plethora of restaurants, taverns and wine bars that make it the gluttonous heart of the Florentine province. Uffizi Gallery The Uffizi offers a room completely dedicated to the artist, including the paintings The Baptism of Christ, The Adoration of the Magi and The

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Annunciation. In The Baptism of Christ you can see the hand of Leonardo at the age of 16, when he was part of Verrocchio’s workshop. The Adoration of the Magi shows us Leonardo’s originality in drawing, while in The Annunciation we see his first optical illusion. The Leonardo da Vinci Museum This exhibition is composed of more than 50 functioning models that spread across four areas: a large hall, in which you can find his civil engineering machines, one dedicated to his flight machines, another to machines of war and, most recently, one showcasing a collection of anatomic models. At the museum it is also possible to picture, in the grand scheme of

things, the documentation of the life and works of Leonardo. The museum also provides a rest stop, the Caffè Michelangiolo, included in the entrance fee to the exhibition, and a bookshop rich in publications and gadgets. Fiesole Historically, the Parco di Montececeri owes its notoriety to the fact of having been chosen by Leonardo da Vinci in 1506 as the starting point for his experiment with his ‘flying machine.’ Inside the park, in memory of the first-ever attempt to fly, stands a monument that carries Leonardo’s epigraph. The monument is located in a small panoramic stopping point where Leonardo’s ma-

CULTURE

chine first took flight. The Parco di Montececeri has its two main entrances at Borgo di Maiano and Via di Doccia. From Maiano you proceed straight along until you find the first abandoned stone quarries on your left; at a certain point, you pull away from the left onto a sharp rise and a path that winds up to the point where Leonardo experimented with flight. It’s Leonardo’s 563th birthday, and if you are in Florence, this is the best way to celebrate it. Chiara Becchetti is a professional tour guide with a background in fashion. To book a tour with Chiara, write to her at: chiarabecchetti@hotmail.it www.toptoursintuscany.com

APRIL 2015

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OLTRARNO

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Off the Beaten Path: Discovering the Oltrarno

one of the most striking spectacles that Florentine art has to offer: the magnificent Brancacci Chapel frescoed by Masolino and the young Masaccio in the early fifteenth century and then completed by Filippino Lippi 50 years later. The figures depicted within are not only rendered with coherent perspective and severe realism but are soaked in psychological depth and moral force: an artistic masterpiece hidden in the heart of the Oltrarno, although unfortunately one often forgotten by the hurried and distracted visitor, that aroused the admiration of Giorgio Vasari in the sixteenth century and art critic Roberto Longhi today. And here in Piazza del Carmine it is surly worth ending this rapid exploration of the Oltrarno. Buona passeggiata!

OLIVIA TURCHI

Florence, as you know, is one the most beautiful cities to visit for art, an open-air museum where one can admire masterpieces such as the Duomo, Palazzo Vecchio, the Bascilica of Santa Croce and the Uffizi Gallery. But once you arrive at Ponte Vecchio, take courage and distance yourself slightly from the crowds of tourists meandering along the elegant Via Guicciardini or the characteristic Borgo San Iacopo, because here a new world opens up before you: the Oltrarno. In fact you cannot truly say you know Florence if you haven’t at least crossed over for a few hours – and why not? - a few days, weeks, or perhaps months to the most authentic, vibrant and characteristic quarter Florence has to offer. Emerging in the fourth century CE from a small Christian community that took up residence along the left bank of the Arno and founded the church of Santa Felicita, the Oltrarno takes its name from the fact that it lay ‘beyond the Arno’ in relation to the historical center. It grew more lively from the start of the year 1200 when new houses and dwellings were built in the neighbourhood of San Niccolò and all along the area between Via de’ Bardi and Borgo San Frediano, surrounding the churches of Santo Spirito and Santa Maria del Carmine. In 1260 the Velluti family decided to construct a spacious street in a perfectly straight line that united the area of San Felice in Piazza with Ponte Santa Trinita, in order

Piazza del Carmine. Photo courtesy of Guido Cozzi.

to create a connection between the Oltrarno and the city center. Given its size, the street took the name ‘Via Maggiore’ and towards the middle of the fifteenth century it became a popular destination for Florence’s most important families, such as the Corsini, Capponi, Biliotti, Ridolfi and Pitti, who began constructing their own beautiful palaces. With the passing of time, ‘Via Maggiore’ was shortened to ‘Via Maggio’ and when Eleonora di Toledo and Cosimo I de’ Medici moved from Palazzo Vecchio to Palazzo Pitti in 1550, the broad street was elevated to strada di corte, or court road, allowing for the passage of official processions that passed over Ponte Santa Trinita to enter the city. The presence of the Medici and of

the majority of the Florentine nobility boosted creative craftsmanship in the area: court families wanted to adorn their residences in the most valuable way and required a large number of engravers, mosaic artists, wood carvers, gilders, goldsmiths, silversmiths and blacksmiths capable of creating their own true works of art. In the Oltrarno today it is still possible to find artisan workshops that carry the expertise of their family, such as the restoration of furniture and paintings that made the area the fulcrum of ancient art and the cradle of the antiques trade culture; a place where antiquarians are by tradition, history and professionalism amongst the most experienced, skilled and active in the sector.

Today in the Oltrarno we are witnessing the coexistence of many difference social realities, united however by a strong sense of belonging, by a common value of identity that is seen in the traditions of the neighbourhood and in the affection for its cultural, artistic, folkloric and, last but not least, culinary treasures. From the majestic Palazzo Pitti that forms a protective ring around the Boboli Gardens, you only need to take a side step to arrive in Santo Spirito, one of the most beautiful, lively, bright and unique squares in Florence, which hosts many and significant treasures in its splendid basilica, including a crucifix by the young Michelangelo. The otherwise austere facade of Santa Maria del Carmine offers

Olivia Turchi and the Via Maggio Association Born in France, but forever Florentine, Olivia Turchi grew up in the Oltrarno neighbourhood of Florence, where she learned to love history and artisan traditions. Turchi is the founder and president of the Via Maggio Association, a society born to protect the cultural identity and the unique connotations of the street and its historical quarter, which is composed of a voluntary committee of citizens, including business owners, artisans, antique dealers and residents.

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Armani Stakes on Pants

BROOKE FEICHTL Giorgio Armani introduced a tailored look with an emphasis on trouser pants in his Fall-Winter 2015/16 collection at Milan Fashion Week. The line includes traditional dress pants and innovative additions, such as what Vogue is calling the “Skouser.” The new look is a one-piece that combines a customary pant leg with a tulip-shaped, wraparound skirt, while another variation on the classic trouser includes silken patterned pieces that resembled harem pants. The collection debuted mostly in black and gray with a few unique colors and a variety of materials, such as wool, velvet and printed silk. The pants were paired with a multitude of jackets that ranged in shape from cropped and tuxedo to

cardigan styles and incorporated materials such as wool, fur, leather and beads. A single skirt was included in the collection, along with eight prom dresses in floral patterns and pink shades with a fanned bustier. Other designers echoed Armani’s simple ‘normcore’ style by producing outfits with cropped or long dress pants that were paired with blazers to create an androgynous look. The combinations also included overly feminine blouses embellished with ribbons, collars or ruffles. Turtlenecks, slip dresses, pinafores and longuette skirts paired with loafers were also popular on the runway, while statement bags in exotic skins, fur or traditional leather made their presence felt as harbingers of style for this coming fall/winter.

Cavalli Causes Controversy at MFW

Fashion houses faced controversy during Milan Fashion Week as creative director Peter Dundas prepared to leave Pucci and rumours circulated about the sale of Roberto Cavalli. Dundas has been creative director at Pucci since 2009 and has accepted the position of creative director at Roberto Cavalli, where he worked beforehand. His last Pucci show displayed a Zodiac theme featuring symbols for Aries, Libra, Sagittarius, Leo and Scorpio in bright colors and patterns, with multiple pieces featuring blue velvet with gold stars and suns embroidered into the fabric. Dundas’s first Cavalli collection will hit Milan Fashion Week in September. Roberto and Eva Cavalli also debuted what was possibly their last show, with several black pieces, floor-length dresses, a stunning brown sequined jacket and dresses with diamond cutouts. The

company’s corporate legal affairs director Daniele Corvasce said that Roberto may have a position

in the new company but the brand will sell a stake worth “over 51 percent.”

BROOKE FEICHTL

one mother-daughter pair wore matching blush frocks. The collection referred to the maternal theme through phrases such as “Ti voglio bene,” the Italian phrase for an affectionate “I love you,” which were inscribed on pieces such as vintage-style lace dresses, skirt suits and coats. The color palette consisted primarily of black and blush, with a few unique outfits in red, green or blue. Red roses were abundant in sequins and embroidery, two blouses displayed Madonna and Child iconography, and silk gowns featured colorful children’s drawings.

Dolce & Gabbana Celebrate Moms Dolce & Gabbana dedicated their Fall-Winter 2015/16 collection to motherhood in their show Viva la Mamma at Milan Fashion Week. The theme is part of the brand’s La Famiglia campaign and follows last month’s paternal menswear show. The Dolce & Gabbana show opened with a group of mothers and children dressed in black on stage, while Bianca Balti, a pregnant model, was one of the first to appear in the show in which several other models walked down the catwalk with their child and

APRIL 2015

Florence News & Events

FASHION

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Strolling and Shopping Florence Online

Designers Go Expo BROOKE FEICHTL

LUCY DAVID A new platform for shopping in Florence has been launched online. Entitled YouMODY, the concept enables consumers to ‘stroll’ the streets of Florence virtually, and enter the city’s most prestigious shops and artisan workshops to buy products. It’s the first time such a comprehensive approach has been taken to online shopping in Florence. While the city is renowned for its craftsmanship, many of these traditional workshops are hidden away in its maze of winding streets. YouMODY’s objective is to make these artisans more visible and enable them to be “visited” by a greater number of virtual clients, in order to promote the range and quality of items hand-produced in Florence. The project is the brainchild of Bulgarini Publishers, a third-gen-

eration publication house. Founded in Florence in 1948 by Domenico Bulgarini, it has gone from producing and distributing scholastic books for the Italian market to publishing its entire catalogue as e-books and actively promoting e-learning technology. Now managed by the founder’s grandchildren Francesca, Domenico and Lorenzo, Bulgarini combines tradition with innovation to offer consumers an entirely new concept. “We have united Florence and the ‘Made in Italy’ brand to enable those who can’t be here physically to stroll the streets of Florence and go shopping,” says Lorenzo Bulgarini. Consumers can browse shops that range in location from the city’s most exclusive thoroughfares, such as Via de’ Tornabuoni and the Ponte Vecchio, to the centrally located Via Porta Rossa, Via de’

Milan Expo commissioner Giuseppe Sala appeared at Giorgio Armani’s Paris fashion show to represent the collaboration between the Expo and fashion. Armani has been designated as the event’s ‘special ambassador’ and opens it on April 30 with a show of his Privé haute couture line. The stylist is also launching Silos Armani, a museum and archive for his company, in Milan. Armani described the creation process of his new project as “unhurried.” “Making a museum seems easy, but it is another small factory and I go very slowly with new things,” he said. Other fashion houses collaboratRondinelli and Via del Parione; ing on Milan Expo include Versace and Borgo San Jacopo and Via de’ and Prada, which are taking part Bardi in the traditionally artisan in the €3 million restoration of Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. The Oltrarno district. Handmade items available in- 13-month project is currently reclude fine jewelry (Carlo Piccini), fashion jewelry (Carlo Cecchi, Vincenzo Spanò and Lo Spillo), tailored childrenswear (Anichini and Baroni) and menswear (Vittorio Di Giacomo), leather and textile bags (Bojola), tables inlaid with the Renaissance scagliola technique (Bianco Bianchi), mosaics (Mireille Valentin), sculptures (Cristiana Vitartali), engravings (Tommaso De Carlo), gilded woodwork (Masi), leather- and paper-bound books and stationery (Parione and Il Torchio), and artisan apothecary items (Antica Erboristeria Inglese), amongst others. Items can be purchased online via computer, smartphone or tablet, and are delivered free worldwide by specialized courier.

storing 14,000 meters of the building’s interior and will be completed in time for the opening of the Expo. Contributions by other fashion designers include Laura Biagiotti’s loan of Giacomo Balla’s painting Genio Futurista and Tod’s donation of Stardust, an exhibition about photographer David Bailey; and the creation of a capsule collection of clothing in honor of the Expo by Tuscan brand Landi Fancy with T-shirts and jackets featuring pictures of Milan’s well-known attractions. The September fashion shows at the Expo will include international designers, including a day dedicated to Chinese designers. Milan Expo takes place from May 1 to October 31 and showcases more than 140 participating countries on 1.1 million square meters of exhibition area. It is expected to attract more than 20 million visitors.

HAIRDRESSER AND BEAUTY SERVICES Located near Santa Croce, Alchimia offers a variety of women and mens’s hair and beauty services using the finest brands. Open daily from 9 a.m.–7:30 p.m. Services include: • Haircuts, color and highlight • Long-length extensions • Keratin reconstruction & hair botox • ESSIE Gel reconstruction and permanent enamel • Acrylic nail care • Waxing • Massage (healing and relaxation) • Custom make-up

Via dell’Agnolo, 47–49 –51/r 055 24 16 04 www.alchimia-hairdesign.com

APRIL 2015

16 Florence News & Events

CITY GUIDE

TOURIST INFORMATION Firenze Turismo . 055 29 08 32 // 055 29 08 33 Via Cavour, 1/r Mon–Sat: 8:30 a.m.–6:30 p.m. (Closed on Sundays and public holidays; see Commune info points below for Sunday hours.) info1@firenzeturismo.it www.firenzeturismo.it Florence Airport ...........................055 31 58 74 Via del Termine, 1 Daily: 8:30a.m.–8:30p.m. infoaeroporto@firenzeturismo.it Commune .................................... 055 21 22 45 Piazza Stazione, 4 Mon–Sat: 8:30a.m.–7 p.m. Sundays & public holidays: 8:30 a.m.–2 p.m. turismo3@comune.fi.it www.comune.fi.it Bigallo loggia ............................... 055 28 84 96 Piazza San Giovanni Mon–Sat: 9 a.m.–7 p.m. Sundays & public holidays: 9 a.m.–2 p.m. bigallo@comune.fi.it

EMERGENCY SERVICES Police – emergency ..................................... 113 Police – carabinieri ...................................... 112 Police – municipal ...................... 055 32 83 333 Ambulance .................................................... 118 Fire department ............................................ 115 Tourist medical service .............. 055 21 22 21 Poison Center ............................. 055 79 47 819 Pharmacies (open) ...................... 800 42 07 07 Vehicle breakdown (ACI) .............................. 116 Obstruction& towed vehicle ...... 055 42 24 142 Civil protection services .............. 800 01 5 161 Child abuse hotline ...................................... 114 Emergency vet services ........... 055 72 23 683 Environmental emergency response ....... 1515 Lost & Found (Florence office) ... 055 33 48 02

TRANSPORT BUS & COACH ATAF (www.ataf.net) .................... 800 42 45 00 BluBlus (www.blubus.it) .............. 800 27 78 25 SITA Nord (www.fsbusitalia.it) ..... 800 37 37 60 CAP (www.capautolinee.it) .......... 055 21 46 37 Vaibus (www.vaibus.com) ......... 058 35 87 897 TRAIN Trenitalia (www.trenitalia.com) ........... 89 20 21 Italo (www.italotreno.it/en) ................. 06 07 08

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Accademia Gallery* Alinari National Photography Museum* Bargello National Museum* Bigallo Museum* Cathedral Museum (Museo dell’Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore)* Costume Gallery (Palazzo Pitti)* Dante House Museum* Galileo Museum * Horne Foundation Museum * Jewish Museum* Michelangelo’s House (Casa Buonarroti)* MUDI Children’s Museum Museum & Florentine Institute of Prehistory Museum of Natural History sections: Anthropology & Ethnology* Geology & Paleontology* Minerology & Lithology* Zoology ‘La Specola’* National Archaeological Museum* Orsanmichele* Palatine Gallery (Palazzo Pitti)* Palazzo Davanzati* Palazzo Medici-Riccardi* Palazzo Pitti* Palazzo Strozzi* Palazzo Vecchio* Porcelain Museum* Science & Technical Foundation* Uffizi Gallery* Vasari Corridor

RELIGIOUS SITES Baptistry of San Giovanni* Brancacci Chapel* Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (Duomo) ‘Dante’s church’ (Santa Margherita de’ Cerchi) Jewish Synagogue* Medici Chapel* Ognissanti San Lorenzo San Marco* Santa Croce* Santa Felicità Santa Maria Novella* Santissima Annunziata Santo Spirito

GARDENS Boboli Gardens* Botanic Gardens* Rose Gardens

MARKETS ANTIQUES Borgo Allegri, Via dell’Agnolo, Piazza dei Ciompi, Via Martiri del Popolo Last Sunday of each month (except July): 8:30 a.m.–7:30 p.m. CENTRAL MARKET Fresh produce, local and Italian food products. Via dell’Ariento Monday–Friday: 7 a.m.– 2 p.m. ; Sat: 7 a.m.–5 p.m. July and August: Monday–Saturday: 7 a.m.–2 p.m. CASCINE PARK Food products, clothing, antiques and homewares. J. F. Kennedy Every Tuesday: 8 a.m.–2 p.m.

DIRECT BUS TO PISA AIRPORT Coaches depart from: Pisa Airport arrivals area, in front of the arrivals gate and Florence City Center S.M. Novella Train Station, outside the station. Journey: 70 minutes. Bus Hours: From Pisa to Florence: 9.20-10.15-11.30-12.30-13.50-15.00-16.15 17.20-19.30-20.30-22.10-23.20-0.10 From Florence to Pisa: 4.30-7.25-8.30-9.15-10.15-11.10-12.05 13.10-14.20-16.30-17.10-18.10

FLEA MARKET Piazza dei Ciompi Daily: 9 a.m.–7:30 p.m. FLOWERS & PLANTS Via Pellicceria (under the loggia) Every Thursday (except public holidays): 8 a.m.–2 p.m. PORCELLINO Clothing, textiles, Florentine straw products, leather and souvenirs. Piazza del Mercato Nuovo, Via Porta Rossa Daily: 9 a.m.–7:30 p.m. SAN LORENZO Leather goods (bags, shoes, clothing) and souvenirs. Piazza San Lorenzo and neighboring streets Daily: 9 a.m.–7:30 p.m. SANT’AMBROGIO Fresh produce, flowers, clothes and homewares. PIAZZA GHIBERTI Indoor market: Monday, Tuesday & Thursday: 7:30 a.m.–2 p.m.; Wednesday & Friday: 7:30 a.m.–7 p.m.; Saturday: 7:30 a.m.–5 p.m. Outdoor market: Monday–Saturday: 8 a.m.–2 p.m. SANTO SPIRITO Piazza Santo Spirito Fresh produce: Monday–Saturday: 8 a.m.–2 p.m. Handicrafts & antiques: 2nd Sunday of each month

APPROXIMATE FARES Firenze-Pisa Airport ................................. € 140.00 Firenze-Bologna Airport ......................... € 180.00 Firenze-Montecatini .................................. € 90.00 Firenze-Arezzo ..........................................€ 140.00 Firenze-Siena .......................................... € 120.00 Firenze-Livorno ........................................ € 160.00 Firenze-San Gimignano ......................... € 100.00 Firenze-Outlet Barberino ......................... € 65.00 Barberino A/R+ 1 hr .................................€ 120.00 Firenze-Outlet Leccio ..............................€ 65.00 Leccio A/R+1 hr ........................................ € 120.00 Firenze-Outlet Prada .............................. € 110.00 Prada A/R+1 hr ......................................... € 160.00 FLORENCE AIRPORT FROM/TO DOWNTOWN

Weekdays- € 20.00 + Luggage Holiday- €22.00 + Luggage Night – 23.30 + Luggage Taxi Bus 1 Pax 20 Euro** 6 Euro* 2 Pax 20 Euro ** 12 Euro* 3 Pax 20 Euro ** 18 Euro* 4 Pax 20 Euro** 24 Euro* 5 Pax 20 Euro ** 30 Euro* *then you need a Taxi/** more 1 Euro each bag

Lorenzo de’ Medici

RESTAURANT & PIZZERIA

LIVE SPORTS

Lorenzo de’ Medici Restaurant and Pizzeria is an elegant yet reasonably priced spot situated right in the heart of Florence, just a few steps away from the Medici Chapel, the church of Santa Maria Novella and San Lorenzo market, and no more than 200m from the Fortezza da Basso. It is the ideal restaurant to try traditional Florentine dishes or pizza cooked in the wood-ﬁred oven. The perfect restaurant for tourist groups, business dinners, meetings or private dining.

GET 20% OFF WITH YOUR STUDENT DISCOUNT CARD Via del Giglio, 49 // 055 21 29 32 www.lorenzodemediciristorante.com

APRIL 2015

Florence News & Events

CITY GUIDE

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OPENING TIMES BAPTISTRY OF SAN GIOVANNI* Piazza San Giovanni 055 23 02 885 Mon–Sat: 11:15 a.m.–7 p.m.; Sun and 1st Sat of every month: 8:30 a.m.–2 p.m. July 4– Sept 28: Thurs–Sat: 11:15 a.m.–11 p.m. Easter Week (Thurs, Fri, Sat before Easter & Easter Mon), April 25 & May 1: 8:30 a.m.–7 p.m. Closed Jan 1, Easter Sunday, Sept 8, Dec 24 & 25. BOBOLI GARDENS* 055 23 88 786 March Daily: 8:15 a.m.–5:30 p.m. (6:30 p.m. with daylight saving) April–May & Sept–Oct Daily: 8:15 a.m.–6:30 p.m. (5:30 p.m. with standard time) June–Aug Daily: 8:15 a.m.–7:30 p.m. Nov–Feb Daily: 8:15 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Closed 1st and last Mon of each month; Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25. CATHEDRAL CUPOLA* Piazza del Duomo 055 23 02 885 Mon–Fri: 8:30 a.m.–7 p.m.; Sat: 8:30 a.m.–5:40 p.m. Closed Sun; Jan 1; Jan 6; Thurs–Fri– Sat before Easter; Easter; June 24; Aug 15; Sept 8; Nov 1; Dec 8; Mon & Tues of the first week of Advent; Dec 25 & 26. Note: 463 stairs by foot only, no lift. GIOTTO’S BELL TOWER* Piazza del Duomo 055 23 02 885 Daily: 8:30 a.m.–7:30 p.m.; January 6: 8:30 a.m.–2 p.m. Closed Jan 1, Easter, Sept 8 & Dec 25. Note: 414 stairs by foot only, no lift VASARI CORRIDOR Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6 055 29 48 83 Available to private groups only: contact Uffizi Gallery for information. ACCADEMIA GALLERY* Via Ricasoli, 58/60 055 23 88 612 Tues–Sun: 8:15 a.m.–6:50 p.m. Closed Mon, Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25. PALAZZO MEDICI-RICCARDI*

Via Cavour, 3 055 27 60 340 Mon–Tues & Thurs–Sun: 9 a.m.–6 p.m. Closed Wednesdays. BARGELLO NATIONAL MUSEUM* Via del Proconsolo, 4 055 23 88 606 Daily: 8:15 a.m.–1.50 p.m. Closed 1st, 3rd & 5th Sun and 2nd & 4th Mon of each month; Jan 1 & Dec 25. CATHEDRAL MUSEUM (Museo dell’Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore)* Piazza del Duomo, 9 055 23 02 885 Mon–Sat: 9 a.m.–7:30 p.m.; Sun: 9 a.m.–1:45 p.m. Closed Jan 1, Easter, Sept 8 & Dec 25. DANTE HOUSE MUSEUM * Via Santa Margherita, 1 055 21 94 16 April–Sept Daily: 10 a.m.–6 p.m. Oct–March Tues–Sun: 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Closed Mon (Oct 1–March 31), Dec 24 & 25. GALILEO MUSEUM * Piazza dei Giudici, 1 055 26 53 11 Mon & Wed–Sun: 9:30 a.m.–6 p.m.; Tues: 9:30 a.m.–1 p.m. Closed Jan 1 & Dec 25. JEWISH MUSEUM * Via Farini, 6 055 23 46 654 June–Sept: Mon–Thurs & Sun: 10 a.m.–6:30 p.m.; Fri: 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Oct–May: Mon–Thurs & Sun: 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m.; Fri: 10 a.m.–3 p.m. Closed Sat, Jan 1, Dec 25 & Jewish holidays. MICHELANGELO’S HOUSE (Casa Buonarroti)* Via Ghibellina, 70 055 24 17 52 Mon & Wed–Sun: 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Closed Tues, Jan 1, Easter & Dec 25. NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM* Piazza Santissima Annunziata, 9b 055 23 57 720 / 23 575 Tues–Fri: 8:30 a.m.–7 p.m.

Sat–Mon: 8:30 a.m.–2 p.m. Closed Jan 1 & Dec 25. PALAZZO DAVANZATI * Via Porta Rossa, 13 055 23 88 610 Daily: 8:15–1:30 p.m. Closed 2nd & 4th Sun, and 1st, 3rd & 5th Mon of the month; Jan 1, May 1, Dec 25. PALAZZO PITTI* Piazza Pitti, 1 Palatine Gallery 055 23 88 614 Tues–Sun: 8:15 a.m.–6:50 p.m. Royal Apartments closed every year during Jan for maintenance. Closed Mon, Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25. Costume Gallery 055 23 88 801 / 23 88 713 March Daily: 8:15 a.m.–5:30 p.m. (6:30 p.m. with daylight saving) April–May & Sept–Oct Daily: 8:15 a.m.–6:30 p.m. (5:30 p.m. with standard time) June–Aug Daily: 8:15 a.m.–6:30 p.m. Nov–Feb Daily: 8:15 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Closed 1st and last Mon of each month; Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25. Gallery of Modern Art 055 2388601 Tues–Sun: 8:15 a.m.–6:50 p.m. Closed Mon, Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25. Silverware Museum Piazza Pitti, 1 055 2388709 March Daily: 8:15 a.m.–5:30 p.m. (6:30 p.m. with daylight saving) April–May & Sept–Oct Daily: 8:15 a.m.–6:30 p.m. (5:30 p.m. with standard time) June–Aug Daily: 8:15 a.m.–6:30 p.m. Nov–Feb Daily: 8:15 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Closed 1st and last Mon of each month; Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25. Porcelain Museum 055 2388709 March Daily: 8:15 a.m.–5:15 p.m. (6:15 p.m. with daylight saving) April–May & Sept–Oct Daily: 8:15 a.m.–6:15 p.m. (5:15 p.m. with standard time) June–Aug Daily: 8:15 a.m.–6:15 p.m. Nov–Feb Daily: 8:15 a.m.–4:15 p.m. Closed 1st and last Mon of each month; Jan 1, May 1 & Dec 25.

Sixty Museums in 72 Hours with the Firenze Card Become a Friend of the Uffizi

For €40 for youth under 25, €60 for an adult and €100 for a family (two adults and two children), the card offers a calendar year’s worth of free privileged entrance to the following museums: Uffizi Gallery Accademia Gallery The Pitti Palace The Palatine Gallery & Royal Apartments The Gallery of Modern Art The Costume Gallery The Medici Treasury The Porcelain Museum The Boboli Gardens The Bardini Gardens Bargello National Museum Museum of the Medici Chapels Museum of Palazzo Davanzati Museum of San Marco Garden of the Medici Villa of Castello Medici Villa of Petraia Medici Villa of Poggio a Caiano Medici Villa of Cerreto Guidi & Historical Hunting Territorial Museum Cenacolo of Ognissanti Cenacolo of Andrea del Sarto Cenacolo of Fuligno Cenacolo of Sant’Apollonia Cloister of the Scalzo www.amicidegliuffizi.it

The Firenze Card is your one-stop pass to the museums, churches and gardens of Florence. For €72 it offers: • 72 hours of free access to 60 of Florence’s most popular and important museums, churches and gardens, including current exhibitions, permanent collections and museum activities; • Free use of public transport within Florence; • Immediate access to busy museums – skip long queues and pre-booking; • Dedicated smartphone application to help find the museums, access free wi-fi and give you updated information on exhibits and events; • Though the card can only be used once in each museum by one person, it also allows free entrance for EU citizens under 18 who are members of the same family unit of the cardholder. See the website for full details: www.firenzecard.it

APRIL 2015

18 Florence News & Events

FOOD & WINE

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Drawing From the Wine Well

Take a wine-tasting tour alongside Pozzo Divino’s 700-year-old well

‘Pozzo Divino’ is a witty play on words: literally meaning ‘divine well’, it translates as ‘wine well’ when read as ‘Pozzo di Vino’. The ancient well in question is now part of a cellar that hosts Pozzo Divino’s wine tours. Dating back to 1312, the well is seven centuries old and was originally built to supply water through a vast system of underground tunnels and pipes to the prisoners of the local prison, known as the Stinche (now Teatro Verdi), that stretched as far as the Bargello. Pino bought the location in 2006 and restored it himself with the help of some friends. Despite its restoration, Pino reveals that it

was always his principal intention to maintain a tangible sense of history when stepping into the cellar. This is something he has undoubtedly achieved; the place is almost like a time-machine propelling you back a few centuries into a part of authentic medieval Florence – albeit in excellent condition. Pino’s sommelier training is at the forefront of Pozzo Divino’s wine tours. He imparts his impressive knowledge while taking guests around the cellar, offering a range of Italian wines to sample with an appetizer of complementary regional cheeses, cuts of meats, bread, olive oil and balsamic vin-

Il Cencio Unto TUSCAN COLD CUTS AND FRESH SANDWICHES Located in Via de’ Cerchi, Il Cencio Unto is the place where you can taste various typical Tuscan cold cuts and tasting plates. Il Cencio Unto is very selective in its choice of products and offers fresh ingredients, made-to-order dishes with delicious toppings, and a wide selection of wines. Specialty:

COCCOLI Open daily: 10-12 a.m.

Via de’ Cerchi, 25/r 055 21 99 90 info@ilcenciounto.it www.ilcenciounto.it

egar. Guests are offered a spectrum of Tuscan flavors to try, from a variety of the region’s renowned Chianti Classico to white wines that include Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio. The wine-tasting ends with the most exclusive reds of the cellar: Bolgheri, Super Tuscan, Morellino and Montepulciano. Upon request, guests also enjoy a buffet lunch comprising fresh pasta, specialty Italian second courses, and “the best panini in the world” made by Pino himself. Pino proudly boasts that 90 percent of the wines he holds are of Tuscan origin, and that his tours

prove so popular that he often ships back boxes of the wine sampled to America in order to appease impressed customers. Those looking to take a taste of Tuscany back home can find comprehensive information on shipping zones and freight costs on the company’s website. Pozzo Divino is currently offering patrons a range of Christmas specials. Its cellars yield a variety of sparkling wines to toast the festive season, from Italian prosecco to French Champagne, as well as local Chianti vin santo for rounding off a celebratory meal. Pozzo Divino’s wine tours can be organized for tourist groups, fam-

ilies and universities, and cost only €15 a head – which not only makes it an experience to enjoy over the festive season but also an ideal Christmas gift for lovers of Tuscany’s finest vintages.

Pozzo Divino Via Ghibellina, 144/r 055 24 66 907 Open from Monday to Saturday: 9:30 a.m.–12.:30 p.m./ 2–6:30 p.m. Wine-tasting on Sundays by appointment (minimum 10 people) order@pozzodivino.com info@pozzodivino.com www.pozzodivino.it

APRIL 2015

Florence News & Events

FOOD & WINE

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Dining with Dante

Taverna La Divina Commedia offers medieval-style dishes

Named after Dante Alighieri’s most famous work, The Divine Comedy, this homely, rustic taverna fittingly lies on Via dei Cimatori, only a few meters away from Dante’s House. The venue prides itself on its innovative and creative idea of preparing solely traditional dishes based on medieval recipes. Some are adapted and revisited for the modern age but in a way that one maintains the omnipresent feeling of Florentine history and tradition – so much so that Dante himself could walk in and dine next to you. As a matter of fact, this is a regular occurrence at Taverna La Divina Commedia, as the venue regularly hosts recitals from Dante’s great work by professional costumed performers. Traditional medieval-style dishes include home-made ribbon pas-

ta with wild boar and mushroom sauce, roast shin of pork with new potatoes and seasonal vegetables, risotto inspired by medieval Tuscan flavors, and tasting plates of assorted cheeses accompanied with fresh fruit and jams, including the taverna’s specialty hot red pepper jam. Also serving as a wine bar and pizzeria, the restaurant offers an eclectic selection of wines from its cellar, an outdoor summer terrace, and is fittingly decorated in a medieval style with armour and banners – and, of course, a mandatory bust of Dante himself.

Taverna La Divina Commedia

Via dei Cimatori, 7/r 055 21 53 69 Open daily: 11.30 a.m.–12.30 a.m.

Gelateria Gourmet and Salumeria Verdi Win Tripadvisor

Florence’s Gelateria Gourmet and Salumeria Verdi were ranked first and third-best restaurants respectively on tourism website Tripadvisor. Gelateria Gourmet won first in the dessert category, while Salumeria Verdi on via Giuseppe Verdi, 36/r, was third best overall

restaurant. What the secrets of these successes? Marco Ottaviano, owner of Gelateria Gourmet on via Matteo Palmieri, 34/r, believes that a gelato’s superior taste comes from his use of all natural ingredients, including the non-homogenized

milk that is delivered from a small farm outside of Florence. Salumeria Verdi’s success derives particularly from the tribute paid to Pino’s Sandwiches by American students, who have chosen it as their favorite lunch destination in Florence.

Italian Food Goes Abroad

Data shows that 1.2 billion people consume Italian food products worldwide each year, the head of the Italian food industry association Federalimentare, Luigi Scordamaglia, said. Scordamaglia is presenting the Fab Food exhibit for the Milan Expo world fair and focusing on positive improvements in Italy’s food industry. Some optimistic figures include the industry’s 50 percent reduction

of water use in 30 years, 20 percent lower energy consumption, 30 percent reduction of greenhouse gas emissions and 40 percent optimization of packaging. Members of the Italian food industry invest €2.6 billion per year for safety and quality purposes and €10 billion for research and development, causing them to be a leading example in the Expo’s challenge of ‘Feeding the Planet, Energy For Life.’

COOKING COURSES IN SANTO SPIRITO

THE RESTAURANT OF THE FLORENTINES

In Tavola aims to spread Italian food- and wine-rich regional culinary traditions, such as those of Tuscany with its variety of dishes and recipes. Cooking classes as well as individual lessons for both professionals and beginners are offered, with special deals for students.

Located in Via Ghibellina near Santa Croce, Da Que’ Ganzi offers a fresh seafood and meat menu for both lunch and dinner. Tuscan specialties include ribollita and authentic Florentine steak, and all of the cakes and sweets are homemade. A special weekday lunch menu for less than €10 makes the restaurant affordable for anyone.

COURSES INCLUDE: • Market tour & cooking class • Four-course dinner • Easy dinner • Easy lunch • Home-made pasta • Pizza & gelato Via dei Velluti, 18 055 21 76 72 www.intavola.org info@intavola.org

Special dishes: BAKED SEA BASS & TUSCAN STEAK Mon. to Sun.: 12–2:30 p.m. & 7–11:30 p.m. Closed on Tuesdays. Via Ghibellina, 70/r 055 22 60 010 www.daqueiganzi.it info@daqueiganzi.it

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20 Florence News & Events

CITY BEAT

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La Buchetta: Named from the Source The history of wine tabernacles

CHIARA FONZI Located in the upper part of Via de’ Benci near Ponte alle Grazie, wine bar and restaurant La Buchetta derives its name from a longstanding local tradition of wine tabernacles, which in Florentine dialect were called ‘buchette.’ Too small for people, too low to be used as windows, and with a consistent architectural style: a 40-centimeter door-like hole closed by a wooden shutter, crowned by an arch and framed by bricks. These are the so-called ‘wine tabernacles’ of Florence, tiny doors once property of the richest families in town, which can still can be seen on the facades of some Florentine palaces. Although they are called tabernacles, they are not of religious significance. At the end of the sixteenth century, northern Europe, especially England, presented tough competition to Florentine merchants, in particular in the textile markets. Because of this, Florentine families abandoned the business that had made them rich and began a more profitable investment: land. Once established as landowners and wine producers, they began selling their products from cellars in town directly to the consumer, rather than to taverns, leading to the birth of tabernacles as the means of wine vending. Today Florence has maintained the wine tradition, with its wine shops and enotecas that join restaurants and bars in the market

of wine selling. But where are yesterday’s wine tabernacles? Some of them have been sealed, but others can still be visited. Piazza Strozzi: The ‘Strozzino’ building, dating to 1420, was designed by Michelozzo for the rich and traditionally mercantile Strozzi family. Piazza Santa Croce: Here visitors can start a real wine tabernacle hunt, with many facing the square from each corner. Via dei Benci, 20: Still the property of the Mellini-Fossi family, this building was designed by Simone del Pollaiuolo and erected in the seventeenth century. Via Dante: A door can be found on the walls of the building once owned by the Giuochi family on the side facing Badia Fiorentina. Via del Proconsolo, 10: On the corner of Borgo Albizi. Palazzo Pazzi Quaratesi has a tabernacle at the side of the main entrance.

Take Home Artisan Tradition Furò e Punteruolo

Stepping into Paolo Fattori’s elegant leather workshop is a surprising experience: light and airy with clean lines and a minimalist feel, it’s where the modern world meets ancient Florentine tradition. Only the lingering scent of leather and the sight of Paolo busily working at an island bench indicates that this is, in fact, a bottega producing finely crafted leather bags, backpacs, belts and various articles from the hands of the man himself. Rolls of jewel-colored leather line the walls, numbered and certified by Tuscan company Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata al Vegetale, which practises an artisan method of vegetable-dyed leather that has its origins in the Renaissance. Although Paolo has only been working in leather full-time for six

years, he’s already made a name for himself both in Florence and as far afield as Japan. However, manual dexterity runs in Paolo’s veins; his father and grandfather worked in wood and iron, and he credits them with his ability. “In Tuscany, manual skill is widespread and forms part of the genet-

ic heritage of the region,” he says. Indeed, Paolo’s workshop is named after the two principal instruments of the trade: the furò and punteruolo. Drop by and watch the craftsman at work on Via del Giglio, 29/r, tucked in between San Lorenzo and SMN train station.

Discover Venice in Santa Croce

spacious interior allows for an abundant selection of gifts and a comfortable shopping experience. Paola’s customers tell her that prices in this beautiful, museum-like shop are lower than those in Venice. If you’re in Florence but looking for classic Venetian crafts such as papier-mâché masks and handmade glass, then Alvise Giustinian is a store worth a visit.

Murano glass and Carnevale mask enthusiasts need not travel to Venice for quality souvenir items. Alvise Giustinian is a gift and art store specializing in Murano-made items and that guarantees the sale of purely Murano products, with no importa-

tion. Products include masks, jewelry, and glass objects for the home. Jewelry has proven to be the shop’s most popular item, due to the ease of transport and availability of products starting at merely €5, according to owner Paola. Alvise Giustinian’s

THE IRISH PUB IN SAN LORENZO The historic bar offers quality beer, fresh cocktails, sandwiches and snacks amidst a traditional Irish pub atmosphere. The pub also offers various promotions and contests with many exciting prizes. The genuine atmosphere together with the helpful and inviting staff make Dublin Pub an ideal place to spend fun nights in good company or enjoy a beer any time while listening to great background music. Open daily from 5 p.m.

Via Faenza, 27 055 27 41 571 info@dublinpub.it www.dublinpub.it

Alvise Giustinian Corso Tintori, 19/r 055 246 62 95 www.alvisegiustian.com

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22 Florence News & Events

SAN GIMIGNANO

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Wine-Tasting in a Postcard Setting

Annalù Exhibits Simulacri at the Gagliardi Contemporary Art Gallery GALLERIA GAGLIARDI Arte Contemporanea

SAN GIMIGNANO

Perched at the top of a hill facing the medieval town of San Gimignano, the Fattoria il Piano has a splendid view overlooking Tuscan trees, vineyards and olive groves. The converted farmhouses offer guests a comfortable stay with apartments and a panoramic swimming pool featuring sunbeds, umbrellas and a changing room. Surrounding fields, woods and stretches of agricultural can be explored on foot or mountain bikes which may be hired locally. A barbecue, utility room and washing machine are also available for use. The Fattoria il Piano’s renowned wine tasting tours begin with a stroll through the vineyards, family chapels and even the underground cellar, carved out of the earth by local workers in 1925. Accompanied with a selection of local foods, the tasting of local wines takes place on the veranda with a magnificent view of the San Gimi-

gnano towers. Amongst the local products available, the four Carlesi Zucconi wines may be tasted on the tour as they are in fact produced at Fattoria il Piano. Other wines include the Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Vittoria, Chianti Colli Senesi and Renzano 2006. The farmland, with its combination of limestone soil and sandstone base, is the ideal location for a vineyard. The tour takes between 40 and 60 minutes and is not restricted to overnight guests but open to all members of the public upon reservation.

Fattoria Il Piano Fattoria Il Piano Loc. Montauto 53037 San Gimignano (SI) Tel. & Fax.: 0577 940 551 Info Tasting & Tour: 320 631 46 55 Other Tel.: 0573 743 084 fattoriailpiano@gmail.com www.fattoriailpiano.it

The Gagliardi Gallery is currently exhibiting Simulacri by Italian artist Annalù. A series of ethereal works in fiberglass, the exhibition examines nature in its most intimate and fragile detail. “In the rooms of the Galleria Gagliardi, Annalù’s subtle game is renewed once more,” says exhibition curator Alessandra Redaelli. “Always balanced between the lightness of transparency and its strength, sculpted into fibreglass, between delicateness and vital energy, between the whisper of the matter and the booming voice of the shape, between nature and artifice, between the most fleeting moment you can imagine – that of a droplet as it falls – and its splendid eternity.” A graduate of Brera Fine Arts Academy in Venice, Annalù has exhibited her work throughout Italy, including the 2011 Venice Biennale, and was chosen as the Italian rep-

resentative for a collective show at the Museum of Young Art (MOYA) in Vienna. She has also exhibited at the San Diego Art Institute. The Gagliardi Gallery was established in 1991, in a 400-square-meter space once used as a garage and farm machinery store. The gallery has now become a cultural reference point for the promotion and sale of contemporary art, and boasts the largest selection of contemporary ceramic sculptors in Italy. Every artwork is chosen directly from the studios of various artists, who constantly experiment with techniques through research, honing their approach and skills. The gallery exhibits ceramic, bronze and marble sculptures; conceptual, abstract and figurative paintings as well as works in steel, iron and wood by Italian and international artists. Simulacri is on display until April 19.

Simulacri Solo exhibition by Annalù Until April 19 Open daily: 11:00 a.m. – 7:30 p.m. Gagliardi Gallery Via San Giovanni, 57, San Gimignano 0577 942 196 galleria@galleriagagliardi.com www.galleriagagliardi.com

Taste The Famous Wines of Colli Senesi Come Visit Fattoria Il Piano in the Hills of Siena

Be given a personal tour of the cellars and vineyards. Then taste our wines with typical local dishes. Read some of our reviews on TripAdvisor. Reservations necessary.

Carlesi Zucconi Premier Wines How about a Vernaccia di San Gimignano, a Colli Senesi Chianti or even our Super Tuscan!

Spend time in peace and quiet watching the winter colours arrive.

Fattoria Il Piano San Gimignano

LOCALITA MONTAUTO -53037 SAN GIMIGNANO ( SI ) www.Fattoriailpiano.it | FB: Il Piano wines and wine tasting WINES & WINE TASTINGS : (0039) 320 631 46 55 • fattoriailpiano@gmail.com • AGRITOURISMO : (0039) 0577 940 551 • info@fattoriailpiano.it

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Florence News & Events 23

SAN GIMIGNANO

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Gelato from a Master: Dondoli Reveals His Secrets

SELECT SITES OF SAN GIMIGNANO Podesta Palace, Tower and Art Collection Piazza Duomo, 2 0577 990 312 Entrance: €5; children between 6 and 17 €5; free entrance to children under 6; combined ticket good for all civic museums €7.50 Daily 11 a.m.- 5:30: after April 1: 9:30 a.m. -7 p.m. The Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta (Duomo) Piazza del Duomo 0577 940 152; Entrance: €4; Combined ticket with the Sacred Art Museum: €6 (Apr-Oct) Mon to Fri: 10 a.m-7 p.m.; Sat: 10 a.m - 5 p.m.; Sun/Holidays: 12:30 p.m. - 7 p.m.

Master gelato-maker Sergio Dondoli is the man behind the world-renowned Gelateria Dondoli. The hard-to-miss shop in San Gimignano was the Gelato World Champion of 2006/20072008/2009, and they will not let you forget it. His gelato is mentioned in most guides, tops the charts in TripAdvisor, and is occasionally the treat of celebrities. In addition to classic flavors, innovation is ever-present in his unique creations. Amidst the tourist rush, Dondoli was able to share some insights into his business: Q: What are the consequences of rather rainy seasons on gelato production? A: Normally the rain lowers the consumption of gelato. Normal tourists don’t have the desire to lick gelato while simultaneous-

ly holding an open umbrella. But fortunately, our gelateria is well known, and so the tourists will suffer through this annoyance for the flavor of our gelato which, remember, I am also very particular about in terms of flavor combinations. Q: What are the characteristics that the best milk should have for the production of gelato? A: We, I say with a little pride but also with honor, adopted 10 cows from Camporbiano Farm for the supply of marvelous fresh milk that is also biodynamic, which has exceptional and organoleptic flavor and quality, precisely because we do not have the precedence of pasteurization and the cows come nourished on fodder from the farm. In Camporbiano’s 26-year history of activity, they have never

administered antibiotics to their cows. Q: What are the flavors that you recommend to customers for the summer? A: When the heat arrives, and it will certainly arrive, we would like to recommend some fresh flavors like our Campelmo ® (sparkling Vernaccia wine and red grapefruit), described by Gambero Rosso as the best Italian sorbet; our fruit sorbets are produced only with real fruit such as white pear, Grosseto melon, etc. For those who like cream, beyond our legendary Crema di Santa Fina ® (DOP saffron from San Gimignano and pinenuts from Pisa) we recommend our latest creation, the Michelle, dedicated to Michelle Obama, produced with almonds from Avola, orange zest, honey, and saffron biscuits.

KEEP CALM & BUY SHOES “Cindarella is the living proof that a pair of shoes can change your life” Located in V. San Giovanni, Cindarella offers shoes, jackets, socks, belts, bags, scarves, clothing and accessories all rigorously Made in Italy and selected for clients who wish to experience a unique shopping experience, as in a fairy tale... Daily: 9:30 a.m. - 8:30 p.m.

Via San Giovanni, 36 San Gimignano 334 397 4862

Archeological Museum - Santa Fina Herbarium - Modern and Contemporary Art Gallery Via Folgore, 1 0577 940 526; www.museodellatortura.it April 1: 9:30 a.m.-7 p.m. Entrance € 3.50; € 2.50 for children between 6 and 17; children under 6 free; combined ticket with all civic museums €7.50

Piazza della Cisterna San Gimignano’s medieval water well gives its name to this piazza Free (outdoors) Ancient City Walls Walk along the 13th century walls with 15th century Medicean bastions Free (outdoors) Ornithological Museum Located inside the church of San Francesco on Via Quercecchio 0577 941 388 info@sangimignano.com After April 1: 11 a.m.-5:30p.m. Entrance €1.50 Sant’Agostino Church Near Porta St. Matteo on Via Cellolese Mon 4 p.m.– 6 p.m.; Tues-Sun 10a.m.-12p.m./3 p.m.-6 p.m. House of Saint Fina Via del Castello Former Podesta Palace and Rognosa Tower Piazza del Duomo

Museo della tortura e della pena di morte - Torture and Death Penalty Museum Via San Giovanni, 82 & 125 0577-940526, 055-940151; Daily: 10 a.m. – 8 p.m. www.museodellatortura.it Info & Reservations: tortura@iol.it Wine Museum 0577 941 267 Free admission 11:30 a.m.-6:30 p.m. Rocca di Montestaffoli Climb the remains of an ancient fortress turret for stunning views of the area

Le Torri

“MADE IN ITALY” LEATHER The company Le Torri was born for collecting, producing and selling highquality artisan leather goods with leather exclusively ‘Made in Italy,’ something that is not easy to find today. The three shops are located in Via San Giovanni. Products include bags for women, business bags for men, belts, wallets, as well as other goods and can be purchased both online and in store. Daily: 9.30 a.m. - 8.30 p.m. Via San Giovanni, 22-24 Via San Giovanni, 34 Via San Giovanni, 117 San Gimignano 0577 940 851 www.letorrionline.com

A JOURNEY THROUGH HUMAN CRUELTY The Museo della Tortura displays over 100 tools designed to torture and kill. Some of these tools are extremely rare, dating to the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries. They include the notorious Iron Maiden, the Guillotine, the Rack, the Chair of Torture, and the Chastity Belt. Also on display are lesser known, more sophisticated devices, such as the Heretic’s Fork, the Noisemaker’s Fife, the Spanish Spider, and flaying instruments. Via San Giovanni, 82 & 125 San Gimignano Open daily: 10 a.m. - 8 p.m. 0577-940526, 055-940151 Tickets: Full € 10 Concessions: € 7 - € 5 Groups Ticket valid for free admission to the Museum of Death Penalty www.museodellatortura.it

APRIL 2015

24 Florence News & Events

EVENTS

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EXHIBITIONS

FLORENCE: PHOTOGRAPHY OF A CITY BETWEEN HISTORY AND UP-TO-DATENESS Until April 5 Via Bufalini, 6 Monday to Friday 9 a.m.–7 p.m.; Saturday & Sunday 10 a.m.–1 p.m. / 3 p.m.-7 p.m. www.entecarifirenze.it

QUEST’ARNO! QUEST’ARNO! Until April 10 Studio Art Centers International Monday to Friday 9 a.m.-7 p.m. Saturday & Sunday 1 p.m.-7 p.m.

THE OTHER HALF OF HEAVEN Female saints and private devotion in the great Florentine families in the XVII - XIX century Until April 11 Villa La Quiete Friday: 10 a.m.–6 p.m.

THE GREAT WAR Until April 30 Alinari Library Monday & Friday 9 a.m.-1 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday 9 a.m.-1 p.m. and 3 p.m.-6 p.m. ACCADRÀ DOMANI An ongoing archive of artists’ books Until May 9 Piazza S. Pancrazio 10 a.m - 5 p.m. Closed on Tuesdays, Sundays & Public Holidays www.museomarinomarini.it

GHERARDO DELLE NOTTI Until May 24 Uffizi Gallery Daily 8:15 a.m.–6:50 p.m. Closed on Monday.

A CAPITAL AND ITS ARCHITECT Until June 6 Viale Giovine Italia, 6 Monday to Friday: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturday & Sunday 10 a.m.-1 p.m. Closed on Holidays, Easter, Easter Monday, April 25th www.entecarifirenze.it

EQUILIBRIUM Until April 12 Ferragamo Museum Daily: 10 a.m.-7:30 p.m. museoferragamo@ferragamo.com PORTRAITS OF COUNTRIES, SEAS AND CITIES Until April 12 Pitti Palace, Palatine Gallery Tuesday to Sunday: 8:15 a.m.-6:50 p.m. Closed Monday.

VAN GOGH ALIVE Until April 12 Chiesa di S.Stefano al Ponte Monday to Thursday: 10 a.m.-7:30 p.m., Friday & Saturday: 10 a.m.–11 p.m. Sunday: 10 a.m.-9 p.m.

SWEET TRIUMPHS Sculptures of Sugar on the Table of the Medici Court Until June 7 Pitti Palace, Palatine Gallery Tuesday to Sunday: 8:15 a.m.-6:50 p.m. Closed Monday.

POWER AND PATHOS Bronze Sculpture of the Hellenistic World Until June 21 Palazzo Strozzi Daily: 9 a.m.-8 p.m. Thursdays: 9 a.m.-11 p.m. www.palazzostrozzi.org

GREAT SMALL BRONZES OF THE MEDICI AND GRANDUCAL COLLECTIONS Until June 21 Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Firenze Monday, Saturday & Sunday: 8:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesday to Friday 8:30 a.m.-7 p.m.

MIDDLE AGES ON THE ROAD Until June 21 Bargello National Museum Daily 8:15 a.m.-5 p.m.; Closed on the 1, 3 and 5 Monday of the month.

Closed on Monday Boboli Garden: 8.15 a.m.-7.30 p.m. July-August: 8.15-6.30pm September-October. Closed on the first and last Monday of the month.

THE ART OF FRANCIS Masterpieces of art and lands of Asia from the 13th to the 15th century March 30 - October 11 Accademia Gallery Daily: 8:15 a.m.-6:50 p.m. Closed on Monday.

FAIRS & MARKETS

BACI 2015 Balloon Arts Convention Italy Palazzo degli Affari April 11-14 IL MERCATALE DI FIRENZE Quality Products Market Piazza del Carmine April 18: 8 a.m.-8 p.m.

BI CI FI 2015 FLORENCE BIKE FESTIVAL Piazzale delle Cascine April 17 - 19 Friday 2 p.m.-7 p.m.; Saturday & Sunday 9 a.m.-7 p.m. www.sicrea.eu FORTEZZA ANTIQUARIA Piazza Vittorio Veneto April 18-19: 8 a.m.-8 p.m.

THE BOOK SHAPE. FROM SCROLL TO CODEX (III B.C.-XIX A.C.) Until June 27 Laurentian Library Monday to Saturday: 9.30 a.m.-1.30 p.m. Closed on Sundays, April 6th, May 1st, June 24th. www.bmlonline.it

LITTLE FAIR Organic and Local Handmade Products April 19 Piazza Santo Spirito 9 a.m.-7 p.m. IL MERCATALE DI FIRENZE Quality Products Market Piazza di Santa Maria Novella April 4: 8 a.m.-8 p.m.

CIOMPI MONTHLY ANTIQUE FAIR Piazza dei Ciompi and surrounding streets April 26: 9 a.m.-6 p.m. SPRINGTIME SHOW OF FLOWERS AND PLANTS April 25 - May 1 Giardino dell’Orticoltura di Firenze 9 a.m.-7 p.m. INTERNATIONAL HANDICRAFTS TRADE FAIR April 24 - May 3 Fortezza da Basso

SCULPTURE ALSO DIES Sculpture Beyond 2000s Until July 26 Strozzina, Palazzo Strozzi Tuesday to Sunday 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Thursday 10 a.m.-11 p.m.; Free Thursdays 6 p.m.-11 p.m. Closed on Mondays.

ARTOUR BEAUTY IN THE SQUARE Traveling trade fair of the Italian artistic handcraft Piazza del Carmine April 4-6: 10 a.m.-8 p.m. CARPENTERS FAIR Organic and local handmade products Piazza della Santissima Annunziata April 11-12: 9 a.m.-7 p.m. www.lafierucola.org

FLORENCE ICE-CREAM FESTIVAL 2015 April 30 - May 3 Piazzale Michelangelo Open Daily FLORA FIRENZE April 30 - May 11 Cascine Park 8.30 a.m.-6.30 p.m. www.florafirenze.com

SPORT VIVICITTÀ HALF MARATHON Classic Half Marathon (21,097Km), Non-Competitive Race (10Km), Walking (5Km), Kid’s Race (1,5Km). Piazza di Santa Croce April 12: Begins at 9 a.m.

THE ILLUSION OF SCILTIAN Until September 9 Villa Bardini Tuesday to Sunday 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Closed on Monday.

EUROPEAN FOOD TRUCK FESTIVAL April 10-12 Parco delle Cascine www.streeatfoodtruckfestival.com

ANTONY GORMLEY - HUMAN April 26 - September 27 Via S. Leonardo 1 Forte Belvedere: 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.,

SANTO SPIRITO FAIR Piazza del Carmine April 12: 9 a.m.-7:30 p.m.

AVON RUNNING Woman’s Foot Race Piazza di Santa Croce April 19 10Km Begins 10 a.m. 5Km Begins at 10.15 a.m. www.firenzemarathon.it GRANFONDO Long-distance bike race, 140km and 90km. Pavoniere, Cascine Park April 19: Begins at 9.15 a.m.

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Florence News & Events 25

ENTERTAINMENT

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David Gilmour Announces Florence Concert

ODEON CINEMA

Piazza Strozzi, Firenze 055 214 068 Office: 055 295 051 www.odeonfirenze.com Tickets: Regular: €7.50; Reduced: €6* *Every Wednesday; students from Mon. to Fri. and selected partnerships.

DIRECTOR: Kenneth Branagh GENRE: Drama, Family, Fantasy STARS: Lily James, Cate Blanchett, Richard Madden, Helena Bonham Carter PLOT: When her father unexpectedly passes away, young Ella finds herself at the mercy of her cruel stepmother and her daughters. Never one to give up hope, Ella’s fortunes begin to change after meeting a dashing stranger. DATES/HOURS: Saturday, April 4: 4:30–9 p.m. Sunday, April 5: 4:30–6:30 p.m. Monday, April 6: 4:30–9 p.m. Tuesday, April 7: 6:30 p.m.

DIRECTOR: Mike Leigh GENRE: Biography, Drama, History STARS: Timothy Spall, Paul Jesson, Dorothy Atkinson, Marion Bailey PLOT: This film explores the last quarter century of the great if eccentric British painter J.M.W. Turner (1775-1851). Profoundly affected by the death of his father, he forms a close relationship with a seaside landlady with whom he eventually lives incognito in Chelsea, where he dies. Throughout his travels, Turner stays with the country aristocracy, visits brothels, is a popular if anarchic member of the Royal Academy of Arts, has himself strapped to the mast of a ship so that he can paint a snowstorm, and is both celebrated and reviled by the public and by royalty. DATES/HOURS: Monday, April 20: 4–6 :45–9:30 p.m. Tuesday, April 21: 5:30 p.m. Wednesday, April 22: 5:30 p.m.

DIRECTOR: Joss Whedon GENRE: Action, Adventure, Fantasy STARS: Robert Downey Jr., Chris Evans, Mark Ruffalo, Hayley Atwell PLOT: When Tony Stark tries to jumpstart a dormant peacekeeping program, things go awry and it is up to the Avengers to stop the villainous Ultron from enacting his terrible plans. DATES/HOURS: Tuesday, April 28: 5 p.m. Wednesday, April 29: 5– 9 p.m. Monday, May 4: 5– 9 p.m. Tuesday, May 5: 5 p.m. Wednesday, May 6: 5 p.m.

Former Pink Floyd guitarist and bandleader David Gilmour performs in Florence on September 15. The concert is just one of two Italian dates for 2015, with the other taking place on September 14 at the historic Verona Arena. Gilmour’s European tour coincides with the release of his new solo album, the fourth solo album of his career, the title of which has not yet been made public. The Florence concert takes place at Le Mulina Theater, and tickets are already available on websites livenation.it and ticketone.it. After Italy, Gilmour performs in France and Germany before concluding his tour with three dates at the London Royal Albert Hall, scheduled for September 23, 24, and 25.

Jeremy Irons Pairs with Tornatore and Morricone for New Film

SPECIAL EVENT:

THE 50 YEAR ARGUMENT Tuesday, April 21: 9 p.m. SPECIAL EARTH DAY:

THE GLOBAL SHIFT Wednesday, April 22: 9 p.m.

APRIL 8-13

DIRECTOR: Oliver Stone GENRE: Action, Adventure, Biography STARS: Colin Farrell, Anthony Hopkins, Angelina Jolie, Rosario Dawson PLOT: Alexander, the King of Macedonia and one of the greatest military leaders in the history of warfare, conquers much of the known world. FREE ENTRANCE: Tuesday, April 14: 8:30 p.m.

DIRECTOR: Rob Marshall GENRE: Adventure, Fantasy, Musical STARS: Anna Kendrick, Meryl Streep, Chris Pine, Emily Blunt PLOT: A witch tasks a childless baker and his wife with procuring magical items from classic fairy tales to reverse the curse put on their family tree. DATES/HOURS: Thursday, April 23: 4:30–6:30–9 p.m. Saturday, April 25: 4:30–6:30–9 p.m. Sunday, April 26: 4:30–6:30–9 p.m. Monday, April 27: 9:30 p.m.

Jeremy Irons is joining forces with fellow award-winners Sicilian director Giuseppe Tornatore and composer Ennio Morricone for production of the film The Correspondence. Co-starring Olga Kurylenko (Quantum Of Solace), the plot centers on the relationship between an astrophysics professor (Irons) and a university student (Kurylenko), who works as a cinema stuntwoman to deal with issues associated with risk and guilt. “I’m enthusiastic to work with Tornatore in this movie and to have the chance to work with an Italian direc-

tor whose perception of the world is so extraordinary,” Irons said recently at the Lucca Film Festival. The film is scored by Ennio Morricone, with whom both Irons and Tornatore have previously shared film projects: Tornatore and Morricone have collaborated on a number of films together, including Cinema Paradiso, and Irons co-starred with Robert De Niro in The Mission, which was scored by Morricone. Filming of The Correspondence is expected to take place in Italy and the UK in the spring.

APRIL 2015

26 Florence News & Events

MUSIC

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Dancing, Italian-Style

Porto di Mare – Eskimo

Bridging cultures through live music at the club where all musicians meet

As with any port, Porto di Mare – Eskimo is synonymous with exchange, correspondence, and coming and going. Anyone is welcomed through the doors of this club, which also hosts a pizzeria and cafè. Its focus on live music and cultural exchange is one that the man who started the club, Francesco Cofone, holds close to his heart: “We never play anything recorded here,” he says with a smile. The method of bridging cultures at Porto di Mare is just getting out an instrument and beginning to play. “I’d be keen to talk to anyone who is interested in playing and sharing their music with us,” Francesco says. The club has also created its own big band, the Eskimo Jazz Orchestra. An all-star Tuscan jazz band born under the initiative of Francesco, it includes some of the biggest and respected names on the jazz scene amongst its members. These include trumpeter and band conductor Fabio Morgera, who played under legendary American jazz cornetist, composer and con-

ductor Butch Morris for 30 years in New York; Dario Cecchini, sax and leader of Italian marching band Funk Off; trumpeter Luca Marianini; trombone player Stefano Scalzi and guitarist Riccardo Onori, who both played alongside renowned Italian singer-songwriter and rapper Jovanotti; percussionists Walter Paoli, ex-member of 1970s Italian jazz, progressive rock and electronic group Area, and Piero Borri; clarinet player Nico Gori; and guitarists Paolo Conte, Ivano Fossati and Riccardo Galardini – to name just (a little more than) a few. The band’s genre has evolved from classical music to a looser, improvised style: “Morris’s idea was to dissolve any sort of ‘formation’ in the orchestra, and for this reason, conducting isn’t undertaken in one style but acts more like a tool for endless different styles,” Fabio Morgera explains. The band performs live at the venue every month, and has already had many requests from specialized magazines to festival directors.

THE COVER STORE • All accessories for phones • Cables • Headphones • Memory Cards • Chargers • Covers

Discover the pizzica tradition at Porto di Mare Club

The pizzica is the most traditional dance in southern Italy, originating in the area of Salento in Puglia. This type of dance is part of the socalled tarantelle, typical dances of the South, the origins of which can be traced back to celebrations in honor of the Greek divinity Dionysius. Dissolute, passionate and sensual attitudes were typical aspects of these celebrations, and still are. This music is rooted in the sunbaked ground of southern Italy, and with the most primitive instincts that unite its people in one language; that of the body, which goes beyond differences in sex, religion and race. Southern Italy is not just an area in this country. It is also, and mostly,

SOFT DRINK R O CCO DRINKS AND MORE ON VIA DE’ NERI Whether you want an iced coffee or a bottle of wine, a beer and crisps or a refreshing soda, Soft Drink Rocco has got you covered. It has everything that you could need at a moment’s notice, selling a wide variety of alcohol, soft drinks and foodstuffs. Snugly settled on Via de’ Neri, if you find yourself in the Santa Croce area and in need of a cold drink on a hot day, or anything for that little gathering of friends you’re having, give them a visit.

Discount for students with this coupon

Via Ghibellina, 96/r

Via de’ Neri, 16/r Santa Croce 389 02 50 515 roccosal@hotmail.it

a way of life, a mental state. It is pre- do not have any experience. cisely this way of life, this mental The Tarantella Street Band perstate that brought together a group forms on Friday at Porto di Mare of southern Italian musicians in – Eskimo, a restaurant and club loFlorence into a band, in order to cated just outside the city center (in transmit their passion, traditions Via Pisana, 128, near the Ponte alla and the spirit of their land. Vittoria). The Tarantella Street Band is com- To get there by bus, catch bus no. posed of Francesco Cofone (lead 12 from Santa Maria Novella train singer), Kira Carson and Angela Be- station in the direction of Piazzanastá (vocalists), Luca Bersaglieri le Michelangelo and get off at the (guitar) Pietro Perri (accordion Sanzio bus stops, where you will and mandolin), Gionata Martano see the club in front of you. Come and Marcello Zappia (tambourine), along and meet Francesco and GiLuca Bannella (organ and Calabri- usy, who will teach you the secrets an lyre) and Giusy Andrisano, (piz- of the pizzica. zica master dancer). The atmosphere is familiar and reThe band’s intention is to encour- laxed. If you would like to escape age people’s dancing traditions, the more touristy confines of the allowing everyone to take part and English-speaking city center, then learn them, including those who this is the place.

APRIL 2015

28 Florence News & Events

SPORT

www.florencenewsandevents.com

From Marathons and Modern Technology to Vintage Flair

Half Marathon Vivicittà Returns on April 12

The 32nd edition of the international Half Marathon Firenze Vivicittà is set to take place this year on Sunday, April 12. Participants range from running enthusiasts to families with children, and runners from around the world are expected to partake in this classic race along the streets of Florence. Runners choose between a half marathon, suggested for professional and amateur athletes, and a 10-kilometer, non-competitive run open to all. Both start at Santa Croce and follow a circuit around famous Florentine sites such as Piazza della Signoria, the Duomo and throughout the Oltrarno. Other options are the five-kilometer walking course or the 1.5-kilometer Tommasino Run charity race for children. Half Marathon Firenze Vivicittà’s courses are completely asphalted and flat. The marathon village,

located in Piazza Santa Croce, is a popular site of various sporting events and fun activities. In addition to a running tour of the city, participants receive a t-shirt and gadgets. Half Marathon Firenze Vivicittà hosts a charity event every year and the organization makes efforts to be eco-friendly. It strives to minimize its environmental impact and encourage its stakeholders, such as sponsors, contractors, charities, competitors and audience, to take up sustainability initiatives. Registration costs €27 for the half marathon and €5 for both the non-competitive run and the walking course. Registration is open until April 9 and can be done online at www. halfmarathonfirenze.it, while registration for the Tommasino Run is free and is open from 7–9 a.m. on the day.

Returning for its third edition, Florence Bike Festival takes place from April 17–19 at Cascine Park with a series of rides, events and presentations designed for lovers of two-wheeled transport, appealing to kids and pros alike. The festival’s headline event is the Granfondo Firenze di Rosa on April 19, a marathon commemorating the 150th anniversary of Florence’s time as capital of Italy twinned with races in fellow capital cities Turin (September 6) and Rome (October 11). This year sees the addition of the scenic Mugello Racetrack to the challenging itinerary, which also includes Via Salviati, part of the 2013 UCI Road World Championships route. Bicincittà takes cyclists on a leisurely route from Cascine Park through the Oltrarno, stopping at various points of historical and cultural interest along the way, while Tweed Ride Florence adds

old-fashioned glam to this most classic form of transport, with elegantly attired participants tracing a 10-kilometer urban route on vintage wheels on Sunday April 19, with prizes awarded to BestDressed Lady, Best-Dressed Gentleman and Best Moustache (man or woman). The vintage theme takes center-stage this year, with series of market stalls and a bike race for members of the Giro d’Italia d’Epoca on Saturday morning followed by a vintage bike procession that departs from the park and heads towards the Bartali Museum at Ponte a Ema via Porta Romana, which is open to anyone in possession of a vintage bike. Throughout the park and historical center, and along the marathon route, curious bike lovers will also have the chance to test out the latest in urban bike technology, with MTB and Citybike models available to try alongside presentations

DIRECT BUS

TO PISA AIRPORT FLORENCE S.M. NOVELLA STATION

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PISA AIRPORT 10.15 11.10

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FLORENCE S.M. NOVELLA STATION

12.05

13.10

14.20

16.30

17.10

18.10

PISA AIRPORT

13.15

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STOPS

The number of runs will increase in April and there will be extra runs in case of high flow of passengers.

FLORENCE PISA

AIRPORT www.airportbusexpress.it · pisa@autostradale.it · Ph. +39 050 6138469

MEDITERRANEAN SEAFOOD SPECIALTIES San Carlo bar offers continental and American breakfast and brunch, simple but refined lunch, a large aperitivo buffet, and an extensive wine and cocktail list. Music and art create a warm, lively atmosphere while friendly staff members are always ready to cater to any requests. San Carlo is a bar suited to any time of day: great for a quick coffee or snack, a leisurely aperitivo or meal, or simply an after-dinner drink with friends. Specialty: TUNA STEAK

Borgo Ognissanti, 32-34/r 055 21 68 79 info@sancarlofirenze.it www.sancarlofirenze.it

of electric bikes by Wayel. The festival also offers several activities for children, such as a guided obstacle course, a creative workshop entitled Lights and Bikes, designed to heighten children’s road safety, and clowns and entertainment. Cascine Park spreads across 160 hectares and encompasses expansive lawns, two racecourses, a velodrome and a tennis club. It also hosts sites of cultural interest, such as a pyramid once used to conserve ice, the mausoleum of nineteenth-century Indian prince Rajaram Chuttraputti, and is located on the doorsteps of the spectacularly renovated Florence Opera House.

Florence Bike Festival April 17–19 Cascine Park info@fbf.bike www.fbf.bike

APRIL 2015

Florence News & Events 29

SPORT

www.florencenewsandevents.com

Waiting for Pepito

Fiorentina Jersey born striker Rossi hopes to recover by the game against Juventus at the end of the month

His dream is to rejoin the team in time for the game against Fiorentina’s supporters most hated team, Juventus, which is scheduled in Turin at the end of this month, on April 29. Chances to see him playing the ‘game of the year’, as Florentine supporters consider that against Juventus, are relatively few though. Rossi’s recovery has to be slow since the player must ‘risk’ his return only when his physical conditions are at the top, as the too many injuries he has suffered from in his career, the last of which came last August explaining why Rossi this season has not appeared in any official game yet, suggest an extra dose of prudence. Chances

to see him against Juventus are for fortune in America. It is actualfew also because the abundance ly the story of a guy who found his of strikers that Fiorentina can rely ‘America’ in Italy. Rossi’s father Feron after the closing of the market nando moved from the Abruzzo session at the end of January, when region to America to coach soccer Albero Gilardino joined the team and teach Italian. From Teaneck, again after two years. As talented the Rossi family moved to Clifton, as unfortunate, ‘Pepito’ has a story another Jersey town, where Pepithat begins in a land where soccer to began to play soccer under the sharp eyes of his father. During his is nothing important, America. Rossi was born in a the small town childhood, he played soccer with of Teaneck, a suburb of the New the Clifton Stallions Soccer Club, York metropolitan area with less a non-profit organization that, than 40,000 inhabitants, the man like many soccer clubs across the who is today the number one star United States, offers the chance for of Fiorentina supporters and top players to play at both recreational scorer in the Italian Serie A cham- and competitive levels. pionship. The story of Rossi revers- The young talent then moved to es the pattern of Italians looking Europe when was 12 to find bet-

NEW GYM NEAR SANTA MARIA NOVELLA Brand new gym in the heart of Florence is now open. • Fully outfitted with the latest cardio & strength equipment from Technogym • Offering a wide array of classes ranging from Zumba to Pilates, every week • All-inclusive memberships with no sign-up fees • Special pricing for students • Friendly English-speaking staff • Free wi-fi Mon. to Fri.: 8 a.m.-10 p.m, Saturday: 10 a.m.-6 p.m, Sunday: 10 a.m.-1 p.m. Via dei Fossi, 56/r 055 23 96 497

YOGA & PILATES IN THE HEART OF FLORENCE • • •

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19r offers great workshops as well as destination retreats. Great student rates daily classes as well as Teacher Training. See you on the mat! Love and Light, Melissa and 19r

FREE FIRST TRIAL Via dei Bardi, 19/r 339 19 70 902 19ryogapilates.com info@ 19ryogapilates.com

Fiorentina April Home Games SERIE A

ter opportunities for a professional career in soccer and was welcomed by Parma and Manchester United. He became legitimate in Spain, where he played for Villareal. Rossi left Villarreal and signed a four-year contract with a €35 million release clause in January 2013, when he was in the middle of recovering from a right knee injury. Fiorentina took a large risk with his purchase. Rossi’s most important proof of excellence to Florentine supporters came against Fiorentina’s biggest rival, Juventus. Currently second in the league, Juventus has shown to be a promising team this year and was the clear favorite in this year’s match against Fiorentina. This was made clear when Juventus entered into halftime with a firm 2-0 lead. However, it was Rossi that brought Fiorentina back to life. Scoring off a penalty kick in the 66th minute and then again in the 76th and 80th minutes, Rossi rallied Fiorentina from what seemed like a certain loss in front of a nearly sold-out crowd of 38,290. This 4-2 loss would be the first for Juventus since February and marked the first time in 15 years that Fiorentina had beaten Juventus at home. Finishing a game with a hat-trick was impressive, but to do so in the circumstances that Rossi faced was truly incredible. Today Rossi’s father Fernando, who died four years ago, would be proud to see his son’s name at the top of the ranking for scorers in the Italian national league.

Fiorentina vs Sampdoria April 4 at 6:30 p.m. Fiorentina vs Juventus April 7 at 8:45 p.m. Fiorentina vs Verona April 20 at 8:45 p.m. Fiorentina vs Cagliari April 26 at 6 p.m.

EUROPA LAEGUE

Fiorentina vs Dynamo Kyiv April 23 at 9:05 p.m. Tickets can be bought through When in Florence, online at it.violachannel.tv, at the stadium and at Fiorentina Point on Viale Manfredo Fanti, 85/A. Keep up to date with Fiorentina at en.violachannel.tv NEW JOMA FIORENTINA 2014-2015 KITS

Get your Fiorentina shirt with a 15% discount when you show this paper at the FLORENCE CURIOSITY SHOP next to Pizzeria O’Vesuvio in Via De’ Cimatori, 23/r.

THE BAR YOUR MOM WARNED YOU ABOUT

HAMBURGERS AND AWARD-WINNING ARTISAN BEER

The newly reopened Jack is ready to rock ‘n’ roll! Come by for lunch or dinner and try the revamped menu featuring traditional Italian food and American staples. Enjoy live music, DJ sets and the costume parties that Jack has become famous for, as well as two HD screens showcasing special sporting events. If all that Italian espresso just isn’t hitting the mark, drop by One-Eyed Jack’s to enjoy American coffee with a free refill between 11 a.m. and 5 p.m. Free wifi is also available.

Mostodolce craft brewery was the first of its kind to open in Prato and now supplies twin pubs in Prato and Florence with its award-winning artisan beer. From pitchblack stout to honey beer and a seasonal Christmas variety made from chestnuts, Mostodolce’s range appeals to the most earthy and subtle of palates. Match your choice with complementary dishes created in the pub kitchen: from the hefty flavours of smoked ribs and tortelloni with wild boar ragout to light snacks and the intriguingly named ‘birramisu’.

Daily from 11 a.m. – 2 a.m.

Open Daily: 11–2 a.m.

Piazza Nazario Sauro, 2/r 055 09 44 561 www.thejackpub.com

Via Nazionale, 114/r (near the train station) 055 23 02 928

APRIL 2015

30 Florence News & Events

TRAVEL

www.florencenewsandevents.com

Not Just in October

Welcome warm weather at Munich Springfest with Bus2Alps What’s better than spring in beautiful Florence? Spring in Munich! The city is celebrating its 40th Frühlingsfest, or spring festival, from April 16 to May 3, and the people of Munich are gearing up to enjoy the party. This year Frühlingsfest is being held on the Theresienwiese, the same open space that hosts the legendary Oktoberfest. While both involve lots of beer, dancing on tables, and belting out merry songs with dozens of new friends, Springfest isn’t nearly as crowded or tourist-heavy, which means shorter lines and getting even more of a chance to see real local

tradition. In addition to two large beer tents, Spaten’s Hippodrome, the Augustiner tent and a Weissbier beer garden, there is a revolving Pils carousel that allows you to drink beer and go on a ride at the same time, in case you were having trouble deciding between the two. The festival runs each day from noon to 11 p.m. and entrance to tents is free. A multitude of other rides and a Saturday flea market add to the endless entertainment options. Aside from Springfest, Munich boasts beautiful parks, museums and historical sights. A 20-minute train ride from downtown Munich

is the Dachau concentration camp, a humbling experience that provides an up-close perspective on Nazi atrocities during World War II. The Neuschwanstein Castle day trip is another option for history buffs as Walt Disney’s inspiration for Sleeping Beauty’s castle. Entrance is only granted with a guided tour. Munich also boasts several famous beer halls and nightclubs. Kultfabrik is a playground for young adults, with more than 40 bars and clubs situated in a converted warehouse, ranging from sports bars to pubs and dance clubs, open till the early hours

of the morning. Bus2Alps offers a Florence to Munich Springfest getaway that includes more than just the popular festival. Whether you prefer to call home base a comfortable hostel or try camping for the weekend, the student tour company provides unmatched accommodation. Those who choose camping are set up with a sleeping bag, tent and mat on the best campgrounds for Springfest. Both options include a bike tour of the city, an ideal way to see all of the city’s beautiful sights such as Marienplatz, Hofbrauhaus, the English Gardens, Chinese Tower, Surfer’s Bridge and Bavarian Par-

liament. The Munich Bike Tour, which lasts about three-and-a-half hours, has been called the best bike tour in Europe by many travelers, and is led by some of the best international guides in Europe.

Included • • • • • • •

Round-trip luxury coach transport (with A/C, DVD, & bathroom) Accommodation with your friends at top-rated hostels Breakfast Private Munich bike tour Exclusive Bus2alps discounts Bus2alps informational guide Bus2alps trip leader

APRIL 2015

Florence News & Events

www.florencenewsandevents.com

Old-School Glamour and Modern Luxury

TRAVEL

At the French Riviera with Bus2Alps Known as the playground of the rich and famous, the French Riviera boasts more than glamour and billionaires. Also known as the Côte d’Azur, this paradise of spectacular beaches, gastronomy and rich history extends from the Italian border along the southeastern corner of the French coastline, including the sovereign state of Monaco. Not only was it one of the first modern resort areas, but its color and light attracted numerous master artists such as Paul Signac, Cézanne, Van Gogh, Picasso and Matisse, who set up studios along the coast. After World War

II, the French Riviera became a popular tourist destination, and since then it has drawn countless celebrities, such as Brigette Bardot, Elton John, Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, Tina Turner and Bono. Today the French Riviera is no longer reserved only for the rich and elite but has become more accessible to tourists. Nice is the Cote d’Azur’s largest city and offers many beautiful destinations, such as the Promenade des Anglais and Castle Hill, which offers some of the most incredible views overlooking the ocean and city. Activities available include scuba diving, sailing and canyon-

ing; however, for a more relaxed day of exploration the city also offers museums and the famous Cours Saleya flower market. The preserved medieval village of Eze, situated high on the Grand Corniche (1400 feet above sea level), is another location for gorgeous views and is also home to the Fragonard Parfumerie, a famous French perfume factory and shop that is open for tours. Antibes is another beautiful medieval coastal village known for its 48 beaches, and the IYC, home to some of the world’s biggest super yachts. It’s the perfect place to lounge on the beach, eat in the open-air mar-

ket, visit the Picasso Museum and shop at the many quaint shops. The glamour Monaco is absolutely not to be missed while vacationing on the Cote d’Azur. The world’s second smallest sovereign state is internationally known not only for its renowned Monte Carlo Casino but also for the Prince’s Palace of Monaco, where American actress Grace Kelly resided as Princess of Monaco. An unbeatable spring getaway for students in Florence who want to get a taste of the high-roller lifestyle, the Bus2alps French Riviera tour offers round-trip transportation, itineraries and helpful guides,

making the Côte d’Azur’s luxury accessible to everyone.

Included •

• • • • •

Round-trip luxury coach transport (with A/C & DVD) to Nice, Eze, Monaco, and Antibes Accommodation with your friends at the top rated hostel in France Breakfast (optional upgrade available) Entrance to Fragonard perfumery with included tour The French Riviera Bus2alps destination guide Bus2alps trip leader