Florence News & Events June 2015

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June 2015

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Search for National Museum Directors Extended

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City Lines Up For Calcio Storico Fiorentino

A Guide to Survive the Summer Heat

PITTI COLORS FLORENCE Fashion show inaugurates a spectrum of summer events

Florence is drenched in color this summer as Pitti Immagine returns with a theme entitled That’s Pitticolor.

“It will be about color and colors, the colors we are steeped in, the colors that surround us, the colors that we wear, that are inside us and before our eyes,” said Agostino Poletto, deputy general manager of Pitti Immagine.

Showcasing the latest in contemporary lifestyle trends, the series of trade fairs once again brings top designers to Florence

for Pitti Uomo 88 (June 16–19) and Pitti Bimbo (June 25–27), located at Fortezza da Basso and throughout the city.

It is one of the first in a series of similarly colorful events this summer taking place in June.

Estate al Bargello continues its spectacle of dance, music and theater in the courtyard of the Bargello National Museum, while the Roman theater at Fiesole hosts music, cinema and dance for Estate Fiesolana from June 11.

The Tuscan Sun Festival (June 11–18) invites international musicians, artists, actors and chefs to the region while the Chianti Star Festival (June 13 – July 19) explores the relationship between art and science.

The city brims with energy to celebrate the feast day of its patron saint John the Baptist on June 24.

Best known for calcio storico fiorentino, a barbarous combination of football, rugby and wrestling that pits the four quar-

ters of the city against each other, the anniversary also includes a rowing regatta on the Arno and the San Giovanni Nocturnal Run, a marathon consisting of a 10-kilometer competitive run and a four-kilometer walk that starts and finishes from the Piazza del Duomo on June 20.

As night falls over the city on June 24, the legendary ‘fires of San Giovanni’, a pagan summer rite now a modern pyrotechnic spectacle, set the sky alight over Piazzale Michelangelo.

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Sculptures Also Die at the Strozzina

Forte Belvedere Hosts Gormley

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The Centre for Contemporary Culture Strozzina is presenting the exhibition Sculptures Also Die, a reflection of contemporary sculpture that presents works by 13 Italian and international artists. The exhibition explores the way artists today are rediscovering materials that were previously dedicated to an academic sphere, such as bronze, stone or ceramic.

These materials are revitalized and used in a conceptual manner in an attempt to recover the recent modernist past.

Artists showcased include Francesco Arena (Italy), Nina Beier (Denmark), Katinka Bock (Germany), Giorgio Andreotta Calò (Italy), Dario D’Aronco (Italy), N.Dash (USA), Michael Dean (UK), Oliver Laric (Austria), Mark Manders (Netherlands), Michael E. Smith (USA), Fernando Sánchez Castillo (Spain), Francisco Tropa (Portugal), and Oscar Tuazon (USA).

The exhibition is designed to tiein with the Palazzo Strozzi exhibition, Power and Pathos. Bronze Sculpture of the Hellenistic World, which offers visitors a unique opportunity to experience a dialogue between the ancient and contemporary worlds of sculpture.

The sculpture of the past survives today chiefly due to its ability to survive the test of time and yet bronzes often remain in a broken state, creating an impression of both durability and a certain ephemeral quality, thereby transforming our perception.

Sculptures Also Die Until July 26 CCC Strozzina Open daily: 10 a.m.–8 p.m (Until 11 p.m every Thursday) Cost: €10; reduced: free/€4/€8.50 www.strozzina.org

Forte Belvedere is hosting an exhibit on Antony Gormley, one of the most acclaimed sculptors working today.

Since its inauguration last month, the exhibit has boomed with more than 22,000 visitors within the first 10 days.

Human brings together more than 100 works by Gormley in the inner rooms of the villa, the bastions, the staircases and the terraces, to occupy every side of the sixteenth-century fortress with its extraordinary views over the city and the surrounding hills.

At the core of the exhibition are two arrangements of the famous work Critical Mass II, an ‘anti-monument’ that comprises 12 body forms, each cast five times to produce a total number of sixty works that can exist in any orientation. Made in 1995, the work is a reflection of the darkest side of German history, dedicated to all

the victims during the twentieth century.

On the east side of lower terrace, 12 body forms of Critical Mass II are installed in a linear progression, from foetal to stargazing, recalling the ‘ascent of man.’

This dialectic between aspirational and abject is the tension that runs throughout the exhibition.

Critical Mass II acquires a new potency in relation to a Renaissance city, the history of humanism and the continuing and ever-present relationship between money, militarism and power.

Human Until September 27 Forte di Belvedere Tuesday – Sunday 10 a.m – 8 p.m.

(Closed on Monday) Free entrance www.musefirenze.it

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Search for National Museum Directors Extended

Franciscan Art in Asia at the Accademia

Mark Massey

Philippa Norton The Italian Ministry of Cultural Heritage and Activities and Tourism (MiBACT) announced last month that the appointment of new directors for 20 of Italy’s finest museums has been delayed until mid-August.

MiBACT sent a stir through the museum world as it issued an international call for candidates, eschewing tradition by opening the position to bilingual foreigners as well as nationals. With new policies, MiBACT is hoping to attract prominent international figures as well as encourage a slowdown in Italy’s ‘brain drain’ within its own borders. A powerful international response has now brought

in more than 1200 applications.

Such an influx of interest paired with a wider pool of competent applicants has thus delayed the reviewing process as the Ministry will need to spend more time and resources sorting out the most promising contenders.

Culture Minister Dario Franceschini was behind this change in the breadth of the search. In January, Franceschini introduced an extensive package of reforms intended to shake up the current administration of Italy’s museums in order to revitalize the protection, management and enhancement of the country’s cultural heritage. The 20 museums will no longer be dependent on state superintendents, but will

have fiscal, managerial and administrative autonomy.

Three museums in Florence are awaiting directors: the Uffizi Gallery, the Accademia Gallery and the Bargello National Museum.

Each new director will take the helm for four years and lead in the implementation and development of cultural and scientific projects, organize shows and exhibitions and even establish opening hours and ticket prices, amongst a plethora of other demands.

Opening high-level roles within cultural institutions to an international and national audience is ultimately reflective of Italy’s new and flexible approach in choosing the most advantageous manner to move forward.

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In a joint collaboration, the Accademia Gallery and the Order of Friars Minor present an exhibition highlighting the art of the Franciscan movement between the thirteenth and fifteenth centuries.

The exhibition also highlights the Franciscan order’s success in spreading the gospel throughout Asia.

Franciscan Art: Masterpieces of Italian art and Asian lands from the 13th to the 15th centuries runs till October 11 and displays such notable works as the cuspidate panels from the altar of Santa Croce’s Bardi Chapel, painted glass by the Master of Figline, a significant artist in fourteenth-century Italy, and a panel depicting St Francis Offering the Sultan Ordeal by Fire from the Alte Pinakothek in Munich, which is being displayed alongside fellow panels from its

original location of Santa Croce for the first time.

In addition to sculptures and paintings, the exhibit features a selection of archival documents and archaeological finds from the Museum of the Custody of the Holy Land in Jerusalem and the Museum of the Basilica of the Annunciation in Nazareth. Artists’ works on display include those attributed to Giunta di Capitino and Coppo di Marcovaldo, as well as those by the Master of St Francis and the Master of the Franciscan Crucifixes.

Franciscan Art:

Masterpieces of Italian art and Asian lands from the 13th to the 15th centuries

Until October 11 Accademia Gallery Tues–Sun: 8:15 a.m.–6:50 p.m. www.uffizi.firenze.it

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Medici Devotion on Display Jiří Kolář’s Imagination Explored in Prato

The Medici Chapels Museum is presenting the exhibition Sacred Treasures of Medici Family Devotion.

On display until November 3, the exhibition showcases the Medici family’s collection of sacred and precious objects, commissioned

by Cosimo II and Maria Maddalena of Austria, which were once offered to religious sanctuaries and the state.

Some of these devotional items were even offered to shrines far beyond the family’s rule in Tuscany, which include those of Loreto, the Holy Land and Goa, India.

The priceless gifts, which have not been revealed to the public since 1945, include votive crowns, mounts for altars, chalices, monstrances, reliquaries, candlesticks, holy wreaths, crosses and altar panels among many other valuable pieces.

Such treasures are not only indicators of the family’s unconditional devotion towards religion, but

also reflect Medici wealth, culture, taste and undisputed economic and political prestige over Tuscany as a whole.

The range of precious stones skilfully worked into gold, silver, crystal and other precious materials also provide insight into the sophisticated and high level of craftsmanship achieved during the times.

The exhibition, preceded by Sacred Splendor at the Medici Treasury and The Other Half of Heaven at the Casa Martelli Museum, completes the series of these three major displays dedicated to

Sacred Treasures of Medici Family Devotion Until November 3 Medici Chapels Museum Open daily: 8:15 a.m.–5 p.m.

(Closed on 2nd & 4th Sunday: 1st, 3rd & 5th Monday of each month) Cost: €8; €4 reduced www.polomuseale.firenze.it

An intellectual both cosmopolitan and enduringly grafted into the history and traditions at the root of contemporary Europe; a masterful interpreter of that cultural disquiet that signified the twentieth century, Jiří Kolář is the protagonist of a noteworthy exhibition event at the Museo di Pittura Murale in San Domenico and Galleria Open Art, both of Prato. Curated by Francesca Pola and Mauro Stefanini, produced in cooperation with Galleria Open Art and showing more than 150 works, the exhibition is the first wide-ranging retrospective to be dedicated to Kolář in Italy since his death in 2002.

For Kolář, images are the ideal substrate on which to condense the complexity of human thought: it is on this grate that fragments and traces of culture, art and communication catch and mix – talking fractals of the landscape of the world. He builds them according to a canon of destruction,

by harkening techniques referring back to the practice of collage, inflected in an almost inexhaustible proliferation of operational variants. He catches the nuances of the ‘becoming’ of the world itself, its dynamics of union and separation; composition and conflict; to regenerate over and over again.

On occasion of the exhibition, Jiři Kolář: A Workshop of Imagination, Carlo Cambi Editore is publishing a 300-page monograph edited

by Francesca Pola: a comprehensive, careful and detailed historic-artistic contextualisation that unites a highly emblematic corpus of works with many texts by the artist and period documents, in the interests of achieving a new and more complete reading of Kolář’s art. Among these documents is previously unpublished material on the artist’s solo exhibitions at the Museum Haus Lange of Krefeld (1973), at the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum of New York (1975) and at the Museo

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Nacional Reina Sofìa of Madrid (1996), exhibitions that were crucial to Kolář’s life in art; the Prato retrospective presents some of the most significant works exhibited by the artist on those occasions.

In collaboration with the Archivio Jiří Kolář, under the auspices of the Comune of Prato and Honorary Consulate of Czech Republic for Tuscany.

Museo di Pittura Murale in San Domenico Piazza San Domenico, 8, Prato 0574 440 501 Mon - Sun: 2–8 p.m. (closed on Tuesdays) www.diocesiprato.it

Open Art Gallery

Viale della Repubblica, 24, Prato Mon – Fri: 3–7:30 p.m.; Sat: 10:30 a.m.–12:30 p.m. and 3–7:30 p.m.

Closed on Sundays and feast days 0574 538 003 www.openart.it Free admission

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Bargello Traces Florentine Medieval Routes

Ancient Greek Bronzes on Display

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Palazzo Strozzi hosts Power and Pathos Palazzo Strozzi is hosting the exhibit Power and Pathos until June 21. Organized by the Palazzo Strozzi Foundation in collaboration with the J. Paul Getty Museum, the Los Angeles and National Gallery of Art in Washington and the Superintendence for the Archaeological Heritage of Tuscany, the exhibit showcases some of the ancient world’s most important sculptural masterpieces. Sculptures are drawn from leading Italian and international museums and include 50 bronzes that trace artistic development during the Hellenistic era.

Hellenistic sculpture saw the birth of a genre known as ‘portraits of power,’ at the same time it revolutionized the style of Classical art by imbuing its figures with pathos. Monumental statues of gods, athletes and heroes

are on display alongside portraits of historical figures, and a newly restored bronze sculpture of a horse’s head dating back to 350 BCE once owned by Lorenzo the Magnificent, which is on display after lingering for more than a century in storage at the Archaeological Museum of Florence.

Power and Pathos allows visitors to explore the fascinating stories behind the discovery of these works and learn about production, casting and finishing techniques.

Power and Pathos:

Bronze Sculpture of the Hellenistic World Until June 21 Palazzo Strozzi Open daily: 10 a.m.–8 p.m. www.palazzostrozzi.org

Divided into five sections and the result of a collaboration between the Bargello National Museum, Musée de Cluny in Paris, the Schnütgen Museum of Cologne and Catalonia’s Episcopal Museum of Vic, the exhibition The Middle Ages on the Road explores travelling in the medieval period.

The first section of the exhibit explores the boundaries and perceptions of the known world during the Middle Ages through a series of maps dating back to the fourteenth century, and, in particular, how the world was perceived from Florence at that time.

The maps showcased present the routes followed primarily by merchants, as well as other kind of travellers, while the dangers of

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sea travel are evoked through an iconographic section and the display of ancient navigation tools.

The second part is dedicated to presenting the different types of medieval pilgrims, including their travel garments, instruments, and the badges ‘conquered’ depending on the destinations reached, and also presents direct accounts by the Crusaders.

A third section documents land and sea travels through small objects, followed by an examination of the theme of travel made for business or political purposes, such as the missions undertaken by diplomats, messengers and ambassadors, with the display of various instruments necessary for such tasks, including document

folders, trading cards and letters of exchange.

The final part of the exhibition focuses on the short trips made by royalty and aristocrats, together with their entourage, to visit their domains or properties; in short, trips that were simply a demonstration of power.

The Middle Ages on the Road Until June 21 Bargello National Museum Mon – Sun: 8:15 a.m.–5 p.m.

(Closed 1st, 3rd & 5th Monday of the month) Cost: €7; €3.50 reduced 055 23 88 606 www.polomuseale.firenze.it

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Palazzo Pitti Serves Up Sweet Triumphs

Poverty and Loneliness Behind the Station

Exhibit reproduces historic banquet

Pampaloni presents Roma Termini documentary at the Odeon

The exhibition Sweet Triumphs: Sculptures of sugar on the table of the Medici court is on display at Palazzo Pitti until June 7.

The exhibit aims to re-create the historic banquet held in Palazzo Vecchio on the evening of Oct. 5, 1600, prepared by some of the most influential Florentine sculptors on the occasion of the proxy wedding celebrated in Florence of Maria de’ Medici and Henry IV, King of France.

That day the most established artists such as Michelangelo Buonarroti the Younger, the great nephew of Michelangelo (to whose account we owe detailed knowledge of the event), Bernardo Buontalenti, Giambologna, Pietro Tacca and Gasparo Mola, showcased famous sculptures made of sugar instead of bronze.

Michelangelo’s account describes decorative food, real pieces of art,

tablecloths and napkins shaped as sculptures.

Among the sugar statues that most impressed Maria de’ Medici and Henry IV was one in which represented Henry IV himself riding a horse, 115cm in height, and those inspired by the Labours of Hercules.

Sweet Triumphs evokes that magnificent day of feasting, glory and international tribute received by Florentine artists, and is one of the city’s events being displayed at Milan Expo 2015.

Sweet Triumphs:

Sculptures of sugar on the table of the Medici court Until June 7 Palatine Gallery Palazzo Pitti Cost: €13; €6.50 reduced www.polomuseale.firenze.it

Poverty, imagination and desper- who find themselves at the edges stract place, like a limbo. So I cut it ation are part of every big station of society, slowly becoming invis- off from all the city surroundings in the world. These themes have ible: they are not Stefano, Angelo, that were going to bring it back become poetry in director Bar- Tonino or Gianluca but anony- to its actual geography by means tolomeo Pampaloni’s new doc- mous, homeless men. of overexposing most of the large umentary Roma Termini, which The movie seemingly represents a shots, getting Rome’s sunlight to screens on June 22 at 9 p.m. at the return to the poetry of Neorealist erase the environment.... CounOdeon Cinema. The event is cu- cinema. terbalancing this surreal aspect rated by Florentine director Frank Pampaloni states, “I wanted to is the reality of the portrayed stodo something real, sincere, fresh ries and people, which are usually Conforti.

Roma Termini is Rome’s central and intense – not a film about shot with close-up shots, where station – and Italy’s busiest – with homeless people, but a film made their faces fill the frame and their 480,000 passengers in transit ev- by them, where they’re the main voices resound over the station characters of their own life.” ery day. background constant noise.”

Amongst the passing crowds live Here the station itself becomes a Born in 1982, Pampaloni is a Floa group of men and women for scene of wandering souls where rentine native but grew up in Paris, whom the station is not a point of everyone shares the same loneli- where he graduated from the Unitransit, but an immense, anony- ness. versité Paris 8. mous home; a huge impersonal “Roma Termini Station is the “No interviews, no script, no crew, house protecting them from the common background of these no money. Just respect and abcold, helping them to find a way of stories,” he continues. “The im- sence of judgment. That was the personal scene where our char- only way for me to stay human, to living with nothing.

This city within a city is the sub- acters emerge, like survivors from portray these people for what they ject of Pampaloni’s film, based a flood. I wished to portray the are and not for what they repreon four stories of men in freefall station as an enigmatic and ab- sent for us.”

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Terrorism, Migration, Climate Change and Russia

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State of the Union conference confronts major themes

Mark Massey ‘Confronting the Future of Europe’ was the theme of this year’s 2015 State of the Union Conference, which took place from May 6–9 in Florence.

Hosted by the European University Institute (EUI), an internationally recognized research center specializing in post-graduate and post-doctoral education, the Conference revolved around four themes and included 70 international speakers, 250 journalists and media personnel, and 2,500 participants over four days.

Notable figures that made appearances at the conference included Italian Prime Minister Matteo Renzi and HR/VP of the European Union (EU) Federica Mogherini.

Bringing together policy-makers, leading academics and business leaders, the 5th annual State of the Union Conference kicked off Wednesday, May 6, at the historic Villa Salvati and the Badia Fiesolana, the main building of the EUI campus.

EUI Professor of International Law and Human Rights Martin Scheinin touched and expounded on a variety of issues at the official State of the Union Address on May 8, such as terrorism, migration, climate change and Russia as critical priorities of the current EU agenda.

The topic of migration was central to Scheinin’s remarks, who insisted that European leaders reject the use of military force on civilian vessels carrying migrants to

Europe. Scheinin stated that the EU must be honest in its version of global justice, reflected in member state actions.

EUI President J.H.H. Weiler, in the morning panel session, interviewed Frans Timmermans, First Vice-President of the European Commission, who began his remarks referencing Euroskepti-

cism, saying that it is part of a broader phenomenon of anti-institutionalism.

Timmermans went on to say that this phenomenon is visible in every EU member state.

While stating that the task of the EU is challenged, Timmermans asked that those who voice anti-EU, anti-European sentiments

not be ignored. Alluding to the current fragmentation in the EU, Mr. Timmermans said that national governments and leaders must take their share of responsibility for the European project, and stop blaming the EU for things seemingly gone wrong, while readily taking credit for success.

Former Director-General of the International Atomic Energy Agency, Mohamed El Baradei, speaking in the afternoon session, directly addressed the Arab Spring and its aftermath.

Interviewed by Jennifer Welsh of the EUI, El Baradei also addressed European reaction to the events of the Arab Spring.

In his remarks, El Baradei said, “The Arab Spring was a question of when, not whether.”

In his assessment, the widespread oppression and prevalent inequality in the region(s), combined with the social networking of young people, were the two main driving forces that pushed against the older regimes, which sought to maintain their power for as long as they could.

According to El Baradei, the question has now become how to continue managing fallout from the Arab Spring.

On May 8, Badia Fiesolana hosted conference events all day related to the topics of surveillance and freedom in Europe and the interface of Europe with the world.

Focusing on the same topics, Palazzo Vecchio, in the heart of Florence, hosted the conference the next day.

The conference concluded on May 10 with guests and visitors invited to events at Badia Fiesolana and Villa Salvati. Attendees of the Conference were also treated to a concert featuring the Orchestra dei Ragazzi from the Fondazione Scuola di Musica di Fiesole ONLUS, directed by Edoardo Rosadini.

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ESTATE AL BARGELLO

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Estate al Bargello Returns

EV ENT CALENDAR June 4: Roberto Mancini, Blood rituals: the Bargello and capital punishment in Florence in the modern age June 11: Francesco Caglioti, Donatello: from the Medici to the Bargello Museum June 18: Marco Collareta, Michelangelo (and company) in the history of the Bargello June 29: Carlo Sisi, Images of the Bargello: the gothic and its variants 2015 FLORENCE DANCE FESTIVAL EV ENTS

Theater, dance, classic and contemporary music: Estate al Bargello presents a calendar richer than usual this year to commemorate the Bargello National Museum’s 150th anniversary, with celebrations beginning last month and continuing until September.

Taking center-stage is the 2015 Florence Dance Festival from July 9 to 30. This year’s program is proving to be one of international caliber, showcasing some of Italy’s most prominent dance companies inspired by this year’s celebrations of Florence’s 150th anniversary as former capital of Italy, and the 750th anniversary of the birth of Dante Alighieri. Co-created by Italian ballerina l’Étoile Marga Nativo and New York choreographer Keith Ferrone in 1990,

the festival, now in its 26th edition, brings together some of the most important Italian and international dance companies to perform in the Bargello’s historic courtyard.

Headlining the program is Divina. com, a multimedia spectacle featuring philosopher-artist Adi Da Samraj together with music and choreography that leads the audience through a contemporary version of Dante’s Inferno, Purgatory and Heaven, and takes place from July 9–11.

The festival also includes performances by the Florence Dance Company, the Peridance Contemporary Dance Company (New York), Flamenco Lunares (an Italian-Spanish company), Balletto di Roma, Italy’s most prominent dance troupe Aterballetto, KAOS

Balletto di Firenze, Deos and Kinesis Danza. These join the ranks of the more than 500 world-class companies and popular dance artists from all over the globe that have enriched the city’s contemporary culture with their performances in previous editions.

Estate al Bargello’s theatrical program includes Arthur Schnitzler’s The Return of Casanova, Niccolo Machiavelli’s The Mandragola (June 16–21), a stage adaptation of Franz Kafka’s Letter to the Father (June 25–27) and readings from Orlando Furioso featuring Stefano Accorsi, in a performance entitled Playing With Orlando Solo (July 1–3). Sandro Lombardi recites Pier Paolo Pasolini’s A Desperate Vitality (August 27–29), while music lovers can enjoy per-

formances by Chamber Orchestra Fiorentina (July 13–29) and Tosca – the Sound of the Voice directed by Massimo Venturiello with music direction by Bubbez Orchestra, which takes place towards the end of the festival on September 12.

Estate al Bargello Bargello National Museum Via del Proconsolo, 4 www.estatealbargello.it 055 238 8606 Florence Dance Festival Borgo Stella, 23/r 055 28 92 76 – 392 91 24 363 www.florencednace.org Tickets: Circuito Regionale Box Office Via delle Vecchie Carceri, 1 www.boxofficetoscana.it

July 9: Opening Gala Orpheus and Linead Divina.com Flying Mercury Award July 10–11: Divina.com Dante/Adi Da Samraj/Florence July 12: Kinesis Dance Company New Generation: Corporeamente July 15: Aterballetto Cahier de la Dance July 17: Flamenco Lunares: El Paso Del Tiempo July 19: Kaos – Balletto di Firenze: Gli Erecti July 21: Balletto di Roma: Swan Lake July 25: Toscana Dance HUB: Un Omaggio a Firenze Capitale July 28: Peridance Contemporary Dance Company (New York): Thundering Silence July 30: Deos Teatro Carlo Felice Genova: Pulcinella DR AMA PERFORMANCES June 3–7 & 9–14: Arthur Schnitzler’s The Return of Casanova June 16–21: Niccolo Machiavelli’s The Mandragola June 25–27: Franz Kafka’s Letter to the Father July 1–3: Readings from Orlando Furioso featuring Stefano Accorsi, Playing With Orlando Solo

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Stop the Press: Literary Events this Summer Lee Foust May was hot and June will be even hotter in Florence.

I’m not talking about the changeable weather and unexpected rains we’ve had, obviously, but the English-language literary scene of course.

St Mark’s English Church’s Florence Writers group has already hosted yours truly, reading from his spoken word Paradoxa pieces, an open mic poetry night, three lectures from bibliophile (and fellow Oakland native) Robert Blesse on the history of printing (a series that also featured a stellar book arts collaborations between Lyall Harris and Patricia Silva), and Bostonian Brendan Kiely reading from and discussing his first novel The Gospel of Winter.

Kiely’s narrative deals with a wealthy Connecticut teen’s troubled relationship with a predatory Catholic priest and, as the dust jacket proclaims, “The ways that love can be used as a weapon against the innocent.”

I found the author wonderfully eloquent on the tough issues that his novel presents—how truth, in both life and art, can lead to us to real love. We have Brendan’s wife, Jessie Chaffee, to thank for his presence among us this year as she is in Florence on a Fulbright fellowship to research her own upcoming novel. Set in present-day Florence, the yet-to-be-titled text incorporates the writings, lives, and legacies of the Italian mystical saints in order to shed light on contemporary issues of female

9

LITERATURE

MAIN LIBRARIES BIBLIOTECA GABINETTO G.P. V IEUSSEUX Piazza Strozzi 055 28 34 2 www.vieusseux.fi.it BIBLIOTECA MARUCELLIANA Via Cavour, 43 055 21 06 02 // 055 21 62 43 Monday to Friday: 9 a.m.-7 p.m.

Saturday: 9 a.m.-1 p.m. www.maru.firenze.sbn.it BIBLIOTECA MEDICEA-L AURENZIANA Piazza S. Lorenzo, 9 055 21 07 60 www.bml.firenze.sbn.it BIBLIOTECA NA ZIONALE Piazza Cavalleggeri, 1/a 055 24 91 91 // 055 24 91 91 Monday to Friday: 9 a.m.-7 p.m.

Saturday: 9 a.m.-1 p.m. www.bncf.firenze.sbn.it

identity. While in Florence, Jessie has also been the Writer-in-Residence at Florence University of the Arts.

At 6:30 p.m. on June 13 the Florence Writers series concludes with a talk on partnership publishing by literary agent April Eberhardt.

Then, beginning on July 15 (at 7:30 p.m.), the group will begin hosting a monthly open mic. word extravaganza at the Ostello Tasso in Via Villani, 15 (just off the Piazza Tasso). Come one, come all!

Lost in Florence blogger Nardia Plumridge is hosting a Sunday Summer Market, also at the Ostello Tasso, from 2 p.m. to sundown every Sunday from June 3 through August 30. Inspired by the Monti Markets in Rome, the Lost in Florence market consists of 12 stalls in the courtyard of the hostel and features local artisans of Florence showcasing their best

work—a mix of fashion, home wares, books, and jewelry. Music and drinks accompany a chance to browse, ogle, and purchase the hand-made products.

A very special event indeed, but in Italian, will be actor Roberto Zibetti’s dramatic recitation of La tela del dolore, a short story

by English-Armenian writer and longtime Florence resident Baret Magarian. This event will be held on June 16 at 9:30 p.m. the Café Letterario Le Murate. Not to be missed!

As it does every summer, NYU’s Villa La Pietra summer arts program kicks off its series of performance events called The Season, in June. First up is a two-day (6–9 p.m.) dialogue entitled A Villa and Garden for Italian and American Writers and Readers on June 4 and 5, held at La Pietra itself.

On June 8 poet Mark Bibbins and

novelist Heidi Julavits read from their works and on June 15 journalist and poet Meghan O’Rourke and journalist and novelist Colson Whitehead present their writings.

Both of these readings will be held at 6:30 p.m. at the Café Letterario Le Murate.

Space is limited for these events so sign up at the website: www.nyu.edu/lapietra/season/ events.html#2 Lee Foust is a fiction writer and performer from Oakland, California who teaches literature and creative writing at various US universities in Florence. He is the author of Sojourner, a collection of stories and poems about the mystery of place, and the forthcoming Poison and Antidote, nine bohemian tales of San Francisco during the Reagan era. Read more from Lee at www.leefoust.com.

IRIS Piazza Strozzi, Palazzo Strozzi www.iris.firenze.it/index_e.php BIBLIOTECA COMUNALE CENTR ALE Via S. Egidio, 21 055 26 16 512 www.comune.firenze.it/comune/ biblioteche/comunale.htm BIBLIOTECA DEI R AGA ZZI Via Tripoli, 34 055 24 78 551 BIBLIOTECA PAL AGIO DI PARTE GUELFA Piazza Parte Guelfa, 1 055 21 47 40 www.comune.firenze.it/comune/ biblioteche/ppguelfa.htm THE UFFIZI LIBR ARY 055 23 88 647 Tuesday: 9 a.m.-5 p.m.

Wednesday: 9 a.m.-1:30 p.m.

Thursday-Friday: 9 a.m.-1 p.m. biblioteca@polomuseale.firenze.it

International & national shipping service Packing material Full color digital copies Fax service Storage service Free pick up at school or home Monday to Friday: 9:30 a.m. - 1 p.m. & 3-6 p.m.

Corso dei Tintori, 39/r | Tel.: 055 24 66 660 | Fax.: 055 24 66 067

JUNE 2015

10 Florence News & Events

CULTURE

www.florencenewsandevents.com

Realizing Leonardo’s Projects

Exhibit showcases working models of da Vinci’s designs, as museum hits 10th anniversary

Lucy David

A family of Florentine craftsmen has discovered previously unknown theorems hidden in Leonardo’s mechanical designs, shedding light on the full scope of his genius.

Carlo Niccolai and his son Gabriele have spent decades constructing working models of Leonardo’s inventions through close study of his famous codices. In collaboration with a team of specialists, the Niccolai family re-creates the designs using materials such as wood, rope, fabric and metal that date back to the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries.

The rigor of practical and mechanical tests carried out on each model has given rise to a number of insights into Leonardo’s approach and surprisingly modern grasp of technology, such as his famous ‘robot’, which was originally believed to have been designed as an armored robotic knight. However, during laboratory tests the robot was discovered to be limited in its upper body movement and instead possess flexible wrists adapted to drumming, and is now believed to have been designed for use in parades and ceremonies.

In his studies for a European Commission-sponsored exhibition of the machines in Brussels earlier this year, Gabriele Niccolai noted how Leonardo appears to have deliberately scattered the mechanical components required to create his inventions over several different pages of his codices, allowing artisans to create individ-

ual elements but preventing their understanding of the machine as a whole. This may be due in part to the fact that Leonardo’s codices have been split up and reassembled over the years – sculptor Pompeo Leoni took the liberty of cutting and dividing several of the codices into scientific and artistic categories in the seventeenth century – however such a practice would have also safeguarded his inventions during times of war.

Leonardo’s catapult design in the Atlantic Codex is rendered useless without details of its ballistic adjustments, which are found in a different part of the codex as a series of self-locking mechanisms.

A deeper understanding of Leonardo’s codices has revealed that many of his technological innovations rested upon those of his engineering predecessors, such as Brunelleschi, Vitruvius, Heron of Alexandria and Archimedes of

Syracuse, which Leonardo adapted to his own context. His modification of a mechanism based on a description found in Herodotus and believed to have been used for building the pyramids surpassed all expectations when Niccolai created its working model in 2011: a 300kg concrete block was so reduced in weight that a six-year-old child was able to lift it.

The Niccolai family has been reconstructing working models of Leonardo’s designs since 1995, when Carlo Niccolai dedicated himself to the work full-time in a desire to realise Leonardo’s legacy.

His passion founded the Niccolai Collection, the largest private collection of Leonardo models in the world, comprising more than 300 working models created by himself and his sons, together with a team of artisans, engineers, historians and architects.

The models have been displayed

at more than 100 international exhibitions throughout Europe and as far afield as Australia, New Zealand, China, the US, Brazil, Saudi Arabia and Finland. More than 50 working models are on permanent display at The Machines of Leonardo da Vinci exhibit at Galleria Michelangiolo in Via Cavour.

Here visitors have the chance to not only observe but also interact with various prototypes, such as the aerial screw used in today’s helicopters, alongside a scuba-diving apparatus, glider, bicycle, tank and missiles; and view reconstructions of Leonardo’s studies of anatomy. The exhibit also displays copies of six codices, in which the visitor can view the sketches that reveal the workings of the great man’s mind.

The Niccolai family has been widely praised for its ongoing devotion to realising the vast inheritance that Leonardo left to science.

Professor Carlo Pedretti, director of the Armand Hammer Center for Leonardo Studies at the University of California, says, “Carlo Niccolai is an admirable figure, a talented craftsman who has developed his own way in studying the technological level reached by Leonardo da Vinci. Moreover, he is a person gifted with great simplicity and humility. His work is important to scholars because it helps our theories and contributes to study indepth Leonardo’s machines and all the technological discoveries made at that time.” Indeed, as Bill Gates’ $30 million purchase of the Leicester Codex indicates, we have much to be grateful to Leonardo for: next time your car gets a flat tire, you can thank Leonardo for inventing the jack.

Leonardo’s designs on display include the aerial screw (used in today’s helicopters), human robot, hydraulic drill, scubadiving apparatus, hang glider, tank, missiles, bicycle, floodlight, lifebuoy and jack.

The Machines of Leonardo da Vinci Michelangiolo Gallery Leonardo da Vinci Museum Via Cavour, 21 Open daily: 9:30 a.m – 7:30 p.m.

Cost: €7 (full price); €5 (reduced); €3 (groups of 15 or more).

Entrance, snack and drink promotion: €8 (between 11 a.m. & 4 p.m.).

055 295 264 www.macchinedileonardo.com

JUNE 2015

12 Florence News & Events

OLTRARNO

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“The Grandest Festa of the Year”

Elizabeth Barrett Browning on St John the Baptist fireworks Olivia Turchi To introduce the June 24 celebrations dedicated to Florence’s patron saint St John the Baptist, it is wise to draw inspiration from the Oltrarno, and in particular from a street in this area that tells us so much about the history of Florence, namely Via Maggio.

The image of St John the Baptist was disseminated throughout Europe on the florin, the Florentine coin that was introduced in 1252, and was even mentioned

by Dante in his masterpiece The Divine Comedy. It is also present in a fifteenth-century fresco representing Christ’s baptism by the Lorenzo di Bicci workshop, and a 1467 triptych by Neri di Bicci in the church of San Felice. St John the Baptist can also be seen on the capitals in the Palazzo Ricasoli Firidolfi courtyard and in the private chapel of Palazzo Ridolfi in Via Maggio, which was built at the end of the sixteenth century

by Giovan Battista Zanchini and attributed to Santi di Tito.

To get inside the heart of this Florentine feast day, the words of nineteenth-century English poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning are perhaps some of the most revealing. Barret Browning spent her Florentine days writing verses in her literary shelter of Casa Guidi on Via Maggio, an apartment that she shared with her husband Robert Browning at the south end of the street, and which can be

visited every year from April to November. Amongst her writings, she describes how the feast day was celebrated during the period of the Italian Risorgimento.

In a letter to her sister dated June 1847, Barrett Browing writes: “Meanwhile, here is the grand festa of San Giovanni, the patron saint of Florence, the grandest festa of the year—and there are to be chariot races in the piazza close to us, & horse races (without riders) somewhere else—games in the manner of the ancients—also fireworks at night. We had intended to have hidden our sublime faces from these things—but after all, I suppose we shall not—it seems foolish not to see what is so characteristic of the people when we have only to open our eyes—so we have ordered the carriage as usual at six, & I will tell you the result.

The fireworks I certainly shall like to see: for I like fireworks, & Robert says that Italy is famous for them.

Altogether it will cost us a few pauls & two headaches, perhaps.”

Characteristic of both yesterday and today, the annual St John the Baptist fireworks display that the city offers to its residents and visitors is a real Florentine tradition that struck the English poet. This is how she describes it: “I couldn’t help screaming out for pleasure, and surprise. I never had seen any good fireworks, but Robert, who had, declared that nothing ever met his eyes to compare with these...and then the whole scene, the river, the people, the garden & characteristic houses

contrived to throw one into a fit of ec[s]tasy—it was my turn to be child, after all my fine reflection of the hour before. Beyond description beautiful, these fireworks were. Great temples, living in light up in the sky...fantastic palaces, burning there & going out, fading away, leaving rains of glory...fountains of flame rising upward as if to find the stars, & then falling, falling into the river...dripping in a regular noiseless splendor which took away your breath! and then entire globes which leapt above the houses, & there broke into a rain of fire or of living fiery serpents which seemed tensing & curling when you looked at them!

I cannot describe to you how marvellously beautiful it was.”

Olivia Turchi and the Via Maggio Association Turchi is the founder and president of the Via Maggio Association, a society born to protect the cultural identity and the unique connotations of the street and its historical quarter, which is composed of a voluntary committee of citizens, including business owners, artisans, antique dealers and residents.

A Jewel in the Oltrarno

Discover Palazzo Belfiore

Located in the Oltrarno, in the heart of one of the traditional Florentine quarters rich in handicraft and antique shops, nestled between the Ponte Vecchio, the Uffizi Gallery, Palazzo Pitti, Boboli Gardens and Santo Spirito, is Palazzo Belfiore. Once the residence of an ancient fourteenth-century family, today it is a luxury residence of seven apartments, all of which have been recently restored with particular attention paid to architectural details and the placement of antique furniture.

The first apartment is named after the Venetian noblewoman Bianca Cappello, who became Grand Duchess of Tuscany in 1574 and wife to Francesco de’ Medici. The foyer entrance of this apartment was typical of a medieval townhouse.

Another apartment is named after Francesco de’ Medici, the Grand Duke of Tuscany, and boasts a single, large arched window that

reaches from the floor to the ceiling, with two smaller windows that allow ample light into the spacious apartment. In the fourteenth century, this part of the building was a market space open to the public. With the exception of one, the apartments are named after members of the Medici family: Cosimo, Giovanni di Lorenzo (who became Pope Leo X), Caterina, Lorenzo. Another is named after Clarice Orsini, the Roman noblewoman who became Lorenzo de’ Medici’s bride.

The seven apartments have two to six beds and mix old and modern furniture, making Palazzo Belfiore the perfect stay in Florence for those wanting to avoid hotels and hostels, opting instead for an intimate stay in a historic Florentine building, in the only part of the city that continues to maintain real traditions: the Oltrarno.

For more information on Palazzo Belfiore, visit the website: www.palazzobelfiore.it

JUNE 2015

Florence News & Events 13

CULTURE & SPORT

www.florencenewsandevents.com

City Lines Up For Calcio Storico Historic football takes place from June 13–24

A Gallery of Trophies and Sport History

Discover Florence’s soccer museum As part of a celebration of Florence’s patron saint, John the Baptist, calcio storico fiorentino is held annually in June. The tradition dates back to the sixteenth century and puts Florence’s four quarters into head-tohead combat in a game that mixes football, rugby and wrestling. Invented by the Romans to train their troops and conserved by Florentines, it is still played every year in Piazza Santa Croce, and the ancient rules are still observed.

Before each game a procession of drummers, flag-bearers, team members and other Florentines, all dressed in sixteenth-century Renaissance attire, parades from Piazza Santa Maria Novella to Piazza della Signoria, through Via dei Neri and Via dei Benci and on to the field of play, Piazza Santa Croce.

Matches last 50 minutes and are played on a field covered in sand, doubly long as it is wide, with net

goals at each end. Each team has 27 players: four datori indietro (goalkeepers), three datori innanzi (fullbacks), five sconciatori (halfbacks), and 15 innanzi or corridori (forwards).

The game starts when the pallaio throws the ball to the center line, followed by the firing of a small cannon, announcing the beginning of play. From this moment on, the players attempt to get the ball into the opponent’s goal. The teams change sides with every point scored.

Tactics such as head-butting, punching, elbowing and choking are allowed, although the modern version forbids sucker punches and kicks to the head. Players continue to play despite any injuries they may incur, as there are no substitutes. Many players boast that they would rather die on the field than in the hospital.

The team that scores the most cacce (points) wins. Historically, the winners are awarded a white calf to rep-

resent the sweet taste of victory. Today, the victorious team wins a calf’s equivalent weight in mouth-watering bistecca fiorentina.

Originally, calcio storico was reserved for aristocratic noblemen who played every night between Epiphany and Lent in front of the Basilica of Santa Croce, and the areas of Via Il Prato, Piazza della Signoria or Piazza Santa Maria Novella.

June 13: St John (green) vs.

Santa Maria Novella (red) June 14: Holy Cross (blue) vs.

Holy Spirit (white) Final match: June 24 All matches begin at 5 p.m.

Tickets from €21 to €52 available online through Boxol.it. Standing tickets available on game days.

THE COVER • All accessories for phones • Cables • Headphones • Memory Cards • Chargers • Covers Special prices for students

Via Ghibellina, 96/r

Tourists drawn to Florence by its art and architecture sometimes miss out completely on one of its most interesting museums: Museo del Calcio (soccer museum), or, located in the Coverciano area, not far from the stadium.

The museum is divided into three floors that reveal the history of Italian and international soccer from its origins in the twentieth century. All jerseys exhibited belonged to former players, and the cleats on display date back to the years of the sport’s pioneers during the second half of the nineteenth century.

NEW JOMA FIORENTINA 2014-2015 KITS

Museo del Calcio

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Sunday: Open for group reservations Entry: € 5; reduced €3

THE BAR YOUR MOM WARNED YOU ABOUT The newly reopened Jack is ready to rock ‘n’ roll! Come by for lunch or dinner and try the revamped menu featuring traditional Italian food and American staples. Enjoy live music, DJ sets and the costume parties that Jack has become famous for, as well as two HD screens showcasing special sporting events. If all that Italian espresso just isn’t hitting the mark, drop

by One-Eyed Jack’s to enjoy American coffee with a free refill between 11 a.m. and 5 p.m. Free wifi is also available.

THE IRISH PUB IN SAN LORENZO The historic bar offers quality beer, fresh cocktails, sandwiches and snacks amidst a traditional Irish pub atmosphere. The pub also offers various promotions and contests with many exciting prizes. The genuine atmosphere together with the helpful and inviting staff make Dublin Pub an ideal place to spend fun nights in good company or enjoy a beer any time while listening to great background music.

Open daily from 5 p.m.

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JUNE 2015

14 Florence News & Events

FASHION

www.florencenewsandevents.com

Donatella Versace: The New Face of Givenchy

Asli Kangal Givenchy designer Riccardo Tisci has revealed his surprising pick for his Fall/Winter 2015 campaign – the iconic Versace designer, Donatella Versace. “So proud and honored to introduce my new ultimate icon: Donatella Versace... FW15 Givenchy Family Campaign”, Tisci wrote on Instagram, posting a black-and-white photo of himself and Donatella and promising that more shots would soon be unveiled. As the hashtags indicates, the photograph was shot by the famous duo Mert & Marcus and styled by Carine Roitfeld. Donatella, who regularly appears in ads for her own design house, re-posted the snap on Versace’s Twitter account, captioning it “For my talented friend Riccardo. Together we break fash-

ion boundaries today!” Although it may come as a surprise to see a fellow fashion designer appear in a competing brand’s ad, the two designers have had a solid friendship ever since their first meeting at a Vogue Italia dinner a decade ago. Tisci is notorious for his casting, having helped transgender model Lea T. and albino model Stephen Thompson to rise to fame. Donatella is also known for breaking ground. Along with her brother Gianni, she helped transform models Naomi Campbell and Cindy Crawford into household names in the 1990s and was also among the first to grasp the potential of stars as a promotional vehicle for brands, tieing Versace’s name to icons such as Princess Diana and Madonna. The fashion world eagerly awaits the official release of the campaign next fall.

Reinventing Suitcases

The first company to introduce at which he worked to begin spethe American novelty of rigid suit- cializing in suitcases, is the reason cases to the Italian market, Valige- for its swift rise to success. By the ria Gazzarrini is a historic shop in 1920s Gazzarrini was already recFlorence, one that has marked the ognized for the quality of its prodcommercial history of the city. ucts at national and international The combination of innovation trade fairs, and four generations and determination that has char- later it supplies top leather good acterized the company since its and travel accessories worldwide. beginnings in 1911, when found- Today the story continues in the er Giuseppe Gazzarrini bought vein of its Florentine artisan roots, the leather manufacturing firm with a dual focus on quality Italian

goods such as Labiena 1856 and Orobianco, and emerging trends in international brands, including Longchamp, Tumi and Samsonite.

Valigeria Gazzarrini

Open daily: 10 a.m.-7 p.m.

Via Porta Rossa, 71-73/r 055 21 27 47 info@valigeriagazzarrini.com www.valigeriagazzarrini.com

Strolling and Shopping Florence Online A new platform for shopping in den away in its maze of winding Florence has been launched on- streets.

YouMODY’s objective is to make line.

Entitled YouMODY, the concept these artisans more visible and enables consumers to ‘stroll’ the enable them to be ‘visited’ by a streets of Florence virtually, and greater number of virtual clients, enter the city’s most prestigious in order to promote the range and shops and artisan workshops to quality of items hand-produced in Florence. buy products.

It’s the first time such a compre- “We have united Florence and the hensive approach has been taken ‘Made in Italy’ brand to enable to online shopping in Florence. those who can’t be here physicalWhile the city is renowned for its ly to stroll the streets of Florence craftsmanship, many of these and go shopping,” says concept traditional workshops are hid- founder Lorenzo Bulgarini.

Consumers can browse shops that range in location from the city’s most exclusive thoroughfares, such as Via de’ Tornabuoni and the Ponte Vecchio, to the centrally located Via Porta Rossa, Via della Vigna Nuova, Via de’ Rondinelli and Via del Parione; and Borgo San Jacopo and Via de’ Bardi in the traditionally artisan Oltrarno district.

Items can be purchased online via computer, smartphone or tablet, and are delivered free worldwide by specialized courier.

JUNE 2015

Florence News & Events 15

www.florencenewsandevents.com

Armani Launches Armani/Silos Museum

Asli Kangal In celebration of his fashion house’s 40th anniversary, Giorgio Armani opened a striking museum space on Milan’s Via Bergognone named Armani/Silos. The occasion also heralded the official opening of the highly anticipated Expo Milan 2015. With a string of celebrations, from an elegant cocktail reception to a fashion presentation, the inauguration of Armani/Silos was attended by Italian Premier Matteo Renzi, Milan Mayor Giuliano Pisapia, Expo Commissar Giuseppe Sala and a host of Hollywood stars including Cate Blanchett, Leonardo DiCaprio and Tom Cruise among many others. The Italian designer chose to name the museum ‘Silos’, as a tribute to the building’s origins as a 1950s Nestlé granary. With

an investment of about €50 million, Armani/Silos has been a big economic commitment in terms of management. Housing 4,500 square meters and spread out over four floors, the sleek, minimal space features a conference hall, a digital archive, a cafeteria and gift shop. Showcasing the Milanese fashion house’s signature pieces, the museum is filled with 600 garments and 200 accessories, which range from chic daywear, glamorous gowns to other examples of exemplary suiting, for which the Italian designer is best known.

The museum will not be limited to fashion shows, as Giorgio Armani states “It can be adapted for exhibits of other kinds, from painting to sculpture and photography.

Certainly any project, in order to be considered, must be close to my spirit.”

Pitti Returns

FASHION

At the Fortezza da Basso from June 16-19

Asli Kangal Showcasing the latest contemporary lifestyle trends, the Pitti Immagine fairs return this month with a wide range of novelties, bringing the world’s top designers to Florence once again. This edition’s theme That’s Pitticolor is aimed at, as its name suggests, colors.

For this edition, Moschino’s Jeremy Scott serves as Guest Menswear Designer. The event, scheduled for June 18 at Palazzo Corsini al Parione, features Moschino’s S/S 2016 collection for men, its first menswear runway in Italy since the designer took over as creative director. Another highlight is the Il Signor Nino exhibition, dedicated to one of the protagonists of Italian style, Nino Cerruti. The show, curated by journalist An-

gelo Flaccavento and the Italian designer himself, traces nearly 50 years of his products, designs and Italian style. Expectations are also high for Carlo Brandelli’s Italian debut for Kilgour’s S/S 2016 men’s collection. The event is scheduled for June 17 at Palazzo Medici Riccardi and the special tribute for the traditional calcio storico fiorentino on June 15 in Piazza Santa Croce.

As part of the Guest Nation project, Pitti Discovery Foundation, in cooperation with the ITC Ethical Fashion Initiative, hosts the Constellation Africa event, an effort to promote four innovative brands from the African continent. A runway show scheduled for June 18 at the Dogana in Via Valfonda, features its menswear collections.

As for Guest Womenswear Designer, the honor goes to Central Saint

Martins graduate and winner of the 2014 LVHMH prize, Thomas Tait. Lapo Cianchi, Director of Communications and Events at Pitti Immagine, said that over the years, Tait’s London Fashion Week shows “have become not-to-bemissed events” and the 27-yearold designer continues to push fashion boundaries with his “sartorial skills.”

This summer Pitti Immagine also hosts Pitti Bimbo 81 (June 25–27), which showcases the newest fashions in childrenswear, and Pitti Immagine Filati 77 (July 1–3), the key international event featuring yarns for the knitting industry.

With a record number of applications from around the globe, 40 percent of the vendors during this year’s Pitti Immagine represent 1150 brands from more than 30 countries. Over 30,000 visitors attended the last edition, representing the world’s leading department stores and smaller boutique retailers.

For more details see:

Pitti Uomo 88

June 16–19 Fortezza da Basso Every day: 9 a.m.–6 p.m.; Last day: 9 a.m.–4 p.m.

Pitti Bimbo 81

June 25–27 Every day: 9 a.m.–6 p.m.; Last day: 9 a.m.–5 p.m.

Pitti Immagine Filati 77 July 1–3 Fortezza da Basso Every day: 9 a.m.–6 p.m.; Last day: 9 a.m.–4 p.m.

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JUNE 2015

16 Florence News & Events

CITY GUIDE

TOURIST INFORMATION Firenze Turismo 055 29 08 32 // 055 29 08 33 Via Cavour, 1/r Mon–Sat: 8:30 a.m.–6:30 p.m.

(Closed on Sundays and public holidays; see Comune info points below for Sunday hours.) info1@firenzeturismo.it www.firenzeturismo.it Florence Airport ...........................055 31 58 74 Via del Termine, 1 Daily: 8:30a.m.–8:30p.m. infoaeroporto@firenzeturismo.it Comune ....................................... 055 21 22 45 Piazza Stazione, 4 Mon–Sat: 8:30a.m.–7 p.m.

Sundays & public holidays: 8:30 a.m.–2 p.m. turismo3@comune.fi.it www.comune.fi.it Bigallo loggia .............................. 055 28 84 96 Piazza San Giovanni Mon–Sat: 9 a.m.–7 p.m.

Sundays & public holidays: 9 a.m.–2 p.m. bigallo@comune.fi.it

EMERGENCY SERVICES Police – emergency ..................................... 113 Police – carabinieri ...................................... 112 Police – municipal ...................... 055 32 83 333 Ambulance ................................................... 118 Fire department ........................................... 115 Tourist medical service .............. 055 21 22 21 Poison Center ............................. 055 79 47 819 Pharmacies (open) ...................... 800 42 07 07 Vehicle breakdown (ACI) ............................. 116 Obstruction& towed vehicle ...... 055 42 24 142 Civil protection services .............. 800 01 5 161 Child abuse hotline ...................................... 114 Emergency vet services ........... 055 72 23 683 Environmental emergency response ....... 1515 Lost & Found (Florence office) ... 055 33 48 02

TRANSPORT BUS & COACH ATAF (www.ataf.net) ................... 800 42 45 00 BluBlus (www.blubus.it) ............. 800 27 78 25 SITA Nord (www.fsbusitalia.it) ... 800 37 37 60 CAP (www.capautolinee.it) ........ 055 21 46 37 Vaibus (www.vaibus.com) ........ 058 35 87 897 TRAIN Trenitalia (www.trenitalia.com) .......... 89 20 21 Italo (www.italotreno.it/en) ............... 06 07 08

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Accademia Gallery* Alinari National Photography Museum* Bargello National Museum* Bigallo Museum* Cathedral Museum (Museo dell’Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore)* Costume Gallery (Palazzo Pitti)* Dante House Museum* Galileo Museum * Horne Foundation Museum * Jewish Museum* Michelangelo’s House (Casa Buonarroti)* MUDI Children’s Museum Museum & Florentine Institute of Prehistory Museum of Natural History sections: Anthropology & Ethnology* Geology & Paleontology* Minerology & Lithology* Zoology ‘La Specola’* National Archaeological Museum* Orsanmichele* Palatine Gallery (Palazzo Pitti)* Palazzo Davanzati* Palazzo Medici-Riccardi* Palazzo Pitti* Palazzo Strozzi* Palazzo Vecchio* Porcelain Museum* Science & Technical Foundation* Uffizi Gallery* Vasari Corridor

RELIGIOUS SITES Baptistry of San Giovanni* Brancacci Chapel* Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (Duomo) ‘Dante’s church’ (Santa Margherita de’ Cerchi) Jewish Synagogue* Medici Chapel* Ognissanti San Lorenzo San Marco* Santa Croce* Santa Felicità Santa Maria Novella* Santissima Annunziata Santo Spirito

GARDENS Boboli Gardens* Botanic Gardens*

MARKETS ANTIQUES Borgo Allegri, Via dell’Agnolo, Piazza dei Ciompi, Via Martiri del Popolo Last Sunday of each month (except July): 8:30 a.m.–7:30 p.m.

CENTRAL MARKET Via dell’Ariento Monday–Friday: 7 a.m.– 2 p.m. ; Sat: 7 a.m.–5 p.m.

July and August: Monday–Saturday: 7 a.m.–2 p.m.

CASCINE PARK Food products, clothing, antiques and homewares.

J. F. Kennedy Every Tuesday: 8 a.m.–2 p.m.

FLEA MARKET Piazza dei Ciompi Daily: 9 a.m.–7:30 p.m.

DIRECT BUS TO PISA AIRPORT Coaches depart from: Pisa Airport arrivals area, in front of the arrivals gate and Florence City Center S.M. Novella Train Station, outside the station. Journey: 70 minutes.

From Pisa to Florence: 05.00 - 08.45 - 09.20 - 10.15 - 11.30 12.15 - 13.05 - 13.50 - 14.30 16.15 - 17.15 - 18.30 - 19.30 -20.30 22.05 - 23.20 - 00.20 From Florence to Pisa: 3.30 - 4.30 -7.15 - 8.05 - 8.50 10.10 - 11.10 - 11.30 - 12.05 13.05 - 13.55 - 14.40 - 15.30 16.20 - 18.05 - 18.50

www.airportbusexpress.it

FLOWERS & PLANTS Via Pellicceria (under the loggia) Every Thursday (except public holidays): 8 a.m.–2 p.m.

PORCELLINO Clothing, textiles, Florentine straw products, leather and souvenirs.

Piazza del Mercato Nuovo, Via Porta Rossa Daily: 9 a.m.–7:30 p.m.

SAN LORENZO Leather goods (bags, shoes, clothing) and souvenirs.

Piazza San Lorenzo and neighboring streets Daily: 9 a.m.–7:30 p.m.

SANT’AMBROGIO Fresh produce, flowers, clothes and homewares.

PIAZZA GHIBERTI Indoor market: Monday, Tuesday & Thursday: 7:30 a.m.–2 p.m.; Wednesday & Friday: 7:30 a.m.–7 p.m.; Saturday: 7:30 a.m.–5 p.m.

Outdoor market: Monday–Saturday: 8 a.m.–2 p.m.

SANTO SPIRITO Piazza Santo Spirito Fresh produce: Monday–Saturday: 8 a.m.–2 p.m.

Handicrafts & antiques: 2nd Sunday of each month

APPROXIMATE FARES Firenze-Pisa Airport .............................. € 140.00 Firenze-Bologna Airport ........................ € 180.00 Firenze-Montecatini ................................ € 90.00 Firenze-Arezzo ........................................€ 140.00 Firenze-Siena ......................................... € 120.00 Firenze-Livorno ...................................... € 160.00 Firenze-San Gimignano ......................... € 100.00 Firenze-Outlet Barberino ........................ € 65.00 Barberino A/R+ 1 hr ................................€ 120.00 Firenze-Outlet Leccio ..............................€ 65.00 Leccio A/R+1 hr ...................................... € 120.00 Firenze-Outlet Prada .............................. € 110.00 Prada A/R+1 hr ....................................... € 160.00 FLORENCE AIRPORT FROM/TO DOWNTOWN

Weekdays- € 20.00 + Luggage Holiday- €22.00 + Luggage Night – 23.30 + Luggage Taxi Bus 1 Pax 20 Euro** 6 Euro* 2 Pax 20 Euro ** 12 Euro* 3 Pax 20 Euro ** 18 Euro* 4 Pax 20 Euro** 24 Euro* 5 Pax 20 Euro ** 30 Euro* *then you need a Taxi/** more 1 Euro each bag

JUNE 2015

Florence News & Events

17

CITY GUIDE

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Sixty Museums in 72 Hours with the Firenze Card COOKING COURSES IN SANTO SPIRITO In Tavola aims to spread Italian food- and wine-rich regional culinary traditions, such as those of Tuscany with its variety of dishes and recipes. Cooking classes as well as individual lessons for both professionals and beginners are offered, with special deals for students. Courses include: Market tour & cooking class, four-course dinner, easy dinner, easy lunch, home-made pasta and pizza & gelato.

Via dei Velluti, 18 • 055 21 76 72 www.intavola.org • info@intavola.org

THE RESTAURANT OF THE FLORENTINES Located in Via Ghibellina near Santa Croce, Da Que’ Ganzi offers a fresh seafood and meat menu for both lunch and dinner. Tuscan specialties include ribollita and authentic Florentine steak, and all of the cakes and sweets are homemade. A special weekday lunch menu for less than €10 makes the restaurant affordable for anyone. Special dishes: BAKED SEA BASS & TUSCAN STEAK Mon. to Sun.: 12–2:30 p.m. & 7–11:30 p.m.

Closed on Tuesdays.

Via Ghibellina, 70/r •055 22 60 010 www.daqueiganzi.it • info@daqueiganzi.it

Become a Friend of the Uffizi

For €40 for youth under 25, €60 for an adult and €100 for a family (two adults and two children), the card offers a calendar year’s worth of free privileged entrance to the following museums: Uffizi Gallery Accademia Gallery The Pitti Palace The Palatine Gallery & Royal Apartments The Gallery of Modern Art The Costume Gallery The Medici Treasury The Porcelain Museum The Boboli Gardens The Bardini Gardens Bargello National Museum Museum of the Medici Chapels Museum of Palazzo Davanzati Museum of San Marco Garden of the Medici Villa of Castello Medici Villa of Petraia Medici Villa of Poggio a Caiano Medici Villa of Cerreto Guidi & Historical Hunting Territorial Museum Cenacolo of Ognissanti Cenacolo of Andrea del Sarto Cenacolo of Fuligno Cenacolo of Sant’Apollonia Cloister of the Scalzo www.amicidegliuffizi.it

The Firenze Card is your one-stop pass to the museums, churches and gardens of Florence. For €72 it offers: • 72 hours of free access to 60 of Florence’s most popular and important museums, churches and gardens, including current exhibitions, permanent collections and museum activities; • Free use of public transport within Florence; • Immediate access to busy museums – skip long queues and pre-booking; • Dedicated smartphone application to help find the museums, access free wi-fi and give you updated information on exhibits and events; • Though the card can only be used once in each museum by one person, it also allows free entrance for EU citizens under 18 who are members of the same family unit of the cardholder.

See the website for full details: www.firenzecard.it

JUNE 2015

18 Florence News & Events

CULTURE

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Deconstructing the Cupola

In the construction of the Florence Duomo cupola, architect Filippo Brunelleschi used a system of sandstone and wooden braces at very specific intervals to hold the walls of the building in place. Along the Duomo’s interior balustrade, eight metallic hooks are set into the structure around the interior, just beneath the paintings. Using these hooks and a complex system of chains, Brunelleschi was able to pinpoint the exact center of the dome. As construction continued upwards, the chains were simultaneously raised at one end to create a perfectly symmetrical shape all the way through to the top of the structural opening.

Equally as important as Brunelleschi’s use of chains in the cupola’s construction was the technique he used to keep bricks in place: a herringbone brick system that relied on the precise use of both horizontal and vertical bricks that

lent support to one another.

According to Professor Ricci, a major expert on the cupola who has spent four decades researching the techniques used by Brunelleschi, construction of the cupola without the herringbone system would have been impossible.

The structure itself is essentially made up of two domes, one interior and the other exterior. Ricci’s findings were made possible in part by the use of a microprobe that was inserted approximately two feet between bricks in the interior shell, the first time anything has entered into what he referred to as the ‘heart’ of the structure.

Brunelleschi died in 1446, 23 years before the structure was finished, including the addition of the copper ball and cross atop the lantern in 1469. His masterpiece still stands as the world’s largest masonry dome, soaring at an awe-inspiring 375 feet, including the lantern.

The Roots of Modern Fashion in Portraits at the Uffizi

Chiara Becchetti Through Renaissance portraits of women it is possible to understand how modern fashion began. It was during this period when, for the first time in art history, women became the object of a somewhat obsessive attention to the details of beauty.

Artists began focusing intently on women’s faces, hair, and clothes, and thus female portraiture took on another expressive element, beyond representing personality and social status.

Simonetta Cattaneo can be considered the first ‘supermodel’ in history, as Botticelli used her as a muse and inspiration for his paintings. Born in Genoa, she married Mario Vespucci, cousin of Amerigo Vespucci, the discoverer of the Americas. In 1475 Simonetta was nominated as the Beau-

ty Queen at La Giostra, a popular chivalrous tournament, which, that year, was won by Giuliano de’ Medici, the brother of Lorenzo the Magnificent. Giuliano and Simonetta embarked on a love story that came to a tragic end in 1476.

She was only 22 when she died of tuberculosis. Giuliano died a few years later in the Pazzi Conspiracy. Simonetta’s face is believed to appear in The Birth of Venus and the Madonna of the Magnificat at the Uffizi. Both her and her lover’s face are also believed to feature in Botticelli’s Primavera.

Another model was Lucrezia Panciatichi. In Bronzino’s portrait she appears with a ‘complicated’ hairstyle, blue eyes and a melancholic expression; she wears a sumptuous red velvet dress and a corset trimmed with a belt made of precious stones; one of her two necklaces bears the inscription Amour dure sans fin, an allusion to the love of God, whilst her right

hand holds a prayer book; and the sleeves of the dress are big and detachable, as it was common in that period.

Lastly, Eleonora da Toledo, Grand Duke Cosimo de’ Medici’s wife, who was depicted by Bronzino with her son Giovanni. Born in Spain, Eleonora brings to the world of fashion and beauty a stronger Mediterranean approach. Set against a dark-blue background, with a face as cold as marble, the Duchess of Florence appears confident of her beauty. The fashion trends of sixteenth-century Spain become evident in both her hairstyle, pulled delicately into a net, and the fabrics used to make her complex dress. Further, Arabic patterns decorate her close-fitting corset while the repetition of pomegranate motifs symbolize the Duchess’s fertility. Gold cords and pure pearls, while demonstrating the prestige of the Medici family, also cover her shoulders.

JUNE 2015

Florence News & Events 19

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Where is the Best Beach?

Discover Tuscany’s top 18 shores

Italy’s most important environmental agency, Legambiente, awarded 18 beaches in Tuscany with the Blue Flag last year. Based on a criteria of 32 items, the beaches were categorized by their water quality, environmental education and information, environmental management, and safety and services.

As the weather heats up and a day at the beach beckons, why not check out some of the following spots? Top-rated Tuscan and Italian shores are: Carrara-Marina di Carrara (Massa-Carrara); Forte dei Marmi, Pietrasanta, Camaiore, Viareggio (Lucca); Pisa-Marina di

Pisa, Calambrone, Tirrenia (Pisa); Livorno-Antignano, Quercianella, Rosignano Marittimo-Castiglioncello, Vada, Cecina-Marina, Le Gorette, Bibbona-Marina, Castagneto Carducci, San Vincenzo, Piombino-Parco Naturale della Sterpaia, Marciano Marina-La Fenicia (Livorno); and Follonica, Castiglione della Pescaia, Grosseto-Marina di Grosseto, Principina al mare, and Monte Argentario (Grosseto).

Further north, but still very accessible, is the rocky Italian Riviera of Liguria, the area where the Cinque Terre are. Its blue-flag beaches are: Bordighera, Santo Stefano al

mare-Baia azzurra, San Lorenzo al Mare (Imperia); Loano, Pietra Ligure Ponente, Finale Ligure, Noli, Spotorno-Zona Moli Sirio e Sant’Antonio, Bergeggi, Savona-Fornaci, Albissola Marina, Albisola Superiore, Celle Ligure, Varazze (Savona); Chiavari, Lavagna, Moneglia (Genova); and Framura, Lerici, and Ameglia-Fiumaretta (La Spezia).

For those planning on traveling south to Rome, the advice is to check out these beaches: Anzio (Roma), Marina di Latina, Sabaudia, San Felice Circeo, Sperlonga, Gaeta, and Ventotene-Cala Nave (Latina).

SURVIVING SUMMER

Escaping the Heat

A guide to the shady spots in Florence

This year’s summer is expected to be the hottest in the last 30 years.

For those who prefer to stay outdoors, even in the terrible Florentine summer heat, here is a short guide of the shady spots in the city.

Piazzale Michelangelo. The perfect place for a panoramic view of the city, especially great for sunsets.

Giardino delle Rose. A green terrace below Piazzale Michelangelo, overlooking the historic center of the city. Address: Viale Giuseppe Poggi 2 (near Piazzale Michelangelo).

Bardini Gardens. On the hills near Piazzale Michelangelo is one of Florence’s best kept secrets. Visitors will see camellias, viburnum, hydrangeas, glycines and rose trees of various species. Address: Costa San Giorgio, 2.

Giardino dell’Orticoltura. Built in 1879 by Giacomo Roster for the Tuscan Horticultural Society.

Transportation: Take bus line 2 from Santa Maria Novella station.

Address: Via Vittorio Emanuele II, 4.

Botanical Gardens. Established

by Cosimo dei Medici in 1545, this is one of the oldest parks in the

world. It is currently maintained by the University of Florence and boasts a collection of carnivorous plants. Address: Via Micheli.

Cascine Park. A daytime hotspot for outdoor activities, much loved

by Florentines. Every Tuesday the park hosts the city’s largest openair market, with very good offers on local specialties such as cheese, vegetables and honey.

Frederick Stibbert Villa. Transformed from a simple Italian park to a romantic English garden by Giuseppe Poggi, this outdoor space features temples, rock caves, fountains and a mysterious Egyptian temple. Entrance to the garden is free; closed only on Thursdays. Address: Via Federigo Stibbert, 26.

Why not try the Boboli Gardens?

While picnics and jogging are note permitted, they offer a green respite from the summer heat.

The Tuscan countryside is also studded with villas, palaces and castles, such as Cafaggiolo and Trebbio in the Mugello region; and the Medici villas of Cerreto Guidi, Petraia and Careggi, which are all waiting to be enjoyed on a nice day.

JUNE 2015

20 Florence News & Events

CITY BEAT

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Dining with Dante

Taverna La Divina Commedia offers medieval-style dishes

Named after Dante Alighieri’s most famous work, The Divine Comedy, this homely, rustic taverna fittingly lies on Via dei Cimatori, only a few meters away from Dante’s House.

The venue prides itself on its innovative and creative idea of preparing solely traditional dishes based on medieval recipes. Some are adapted and revisited for the modern age but in a way that one maintains the omnipresent feeling of Florentine history and tradition – so much so that Dante himself could walk in and dine next to you. As a matter of fact, this is a regular occurrence at Taverna La Divina Commedia, as the venue regularly hosts recitals from Dante’s great work by professional costumed performers.

Traditional medieval-style dishes include home-made ribbon pas-

ta with wild boar and mushroom sauce, roast shin of pork with new potatoes and seasonal vegetables, risotto inspired by medieval Tuscan flavors, and tasting plates of assorted cheeses accompanied with fresh fruit and jams, including the taverna’s specialty hot red pepper jam.

Also serving as a wine bar and pizzeria, the restaurant offers an eclectic selection of wines from its cellar, an outdoor summer terrace, and is fittingly decorated in a medieval style with armour and banners – and, of course, a mandatory bust of Dante himself.

Taverna La Divina Commedia

Via dei Cimatori, 7/r 055 21 53 69 Open daily: 11.30 a.m.–12.30 a.m.

A Florentine Branch for Engel & Völkers With more than 35 years of experience in the brokerage of highend real estate, Engel & Völkers belongs to the leading service providers in the industry today.

The international network and the local market knowledge of the company experts create the foundation of its success. This gives the customer invaluable benefits, particularly in the commercial real estate sector. Whether you

Antique Clock Tradition Survives at Nuti

wish to sell or to let or are looking for a suitable property yourself, or you are seeking sustainable competitive advantages or the longterm creation of value, Engel & Völkers is the best choice.

Engel & Völkers

Firenze Michelangelo Lungarno Guicciardini, 25-27r 055 281 076

One day in the early 1950s a young woman took her son Valerio by the hand and led him to his first day of school. She wanted him to become a dentist. As with all mothers, she wanted a safe, wellpaid job for her son.

The school was one of the most renowned in Florence, offering courses in different disciplines.

But this particular day proved disappointing for the woman.

“The dentist school is full, but there is one place available in the watchmaking school – should we sign your son up here?” she was asked by the employee.

The woman said yes. The kid was lively and, even if the future she was dreaming for him was a different one, it was better to enroll him in a watchmaking school than have him create trouble at home or be led astray on the

streets. At least he would do something.

No choice could have been be better. Valerio soon excelled at watchmaking; his manual dexterity was natural, as natural as the passion he developed for clocks.

After school he repaired watches and fell in love with collecting them. In 1975, he made the move and opened his own jewelry shop, Antichi Orologi e Gioielli Nuti.

The jeweller’s is now run by Valerio’s family, which keeps his spirit and story alive.

The collection is worth a visit. In addition to pieces that belonged to the Florentine aristocracy, which form the core of the collection, it features pendulum clock from the French Directory period, clocks that Napoleon gave to his perennially late officials during military campaigns; a French

amphora-shaped clock from the second half of the nineteenth century; English tower clocks by John Hoger; and clocks from the late eighteenth and early nineteenth century by Breguet, a company established in 1775 in Paris.

All clocks and jewels are certified, making the shipping faster as it can take up to several days to ship a non-certified piece.

Time is money. At Nuti, it is also history.

Antichi Orologi e Gioielli Nuti Via della Scala 10/r Tel.: 055-294594 Opening hours: 9 a.m. - 12.30 p.m.

4 to 7 p.m., closed on Monday morning

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Florence News & Events 21

CITY BEAT

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A Florentine Tradition

Your one-stop shop for a lampredotto The smell ofintripe cooking on the sandwich Piazza dei Cimatori San Lorenzo streets ofand Florence was once so

overwhelming that Lorenzo de’ Medici banned the kiosks altogether. However, such was its popularity that once the Medici lost power, tripe returned in force and secured its place as a mainstay of In true Florentine tradition, the outdoor food Florentine street food. cart provides trippa, lampredotto, lesso, Initially, tripe was a staple food poppa, matrice, porchetta, salumi, and wildfor boar sausages madeworking fresh daily. L’Antico laborers and the classes, Trippaio is the best place to enjoy excellent and it dates as far as the fourpanini and focacce like back a true local.

Just steps fromcentury. the Duomo, it is one of the wooden most teenth Simple frequented lunch spots in the historic city street carts served sandwiches center. stuffed with tripe, and this tradition continues today, albeit in the www.anticotrippaio.it more sophisticated kiosks that can be found dotted around the city.

Trippa, or tripe, is made from the cow’s pre-stomachs, and is soft, white, and mostly flavorless. Enjoyed in many regions of Italy, it is cooked in a variety of ways.

Lampredotto, however, is the uniquely local Florentine version, made from the cow’s fourth stomach, called the abomasum. Tuscan cooks boil it with tomatoes, onions, parsley and celery for two to three hours and then serve it in a Tuscan bread roll with salt, pepper, chilli oil or salsa verde (green sauce). Locals recommend L’Antico Trippaio, which has a reputation for making the best lampredotto in town, located in Piazza dei Cimatori.

As a leading tour operator in Florence with multilingual staff, Ciao Florence offers a range of regular and private tours to Venice, Rome, Naples and Tuscany.

Ciao Florence has a variety of daily and weekend excursions where one can discover the Cinque Terre and hike between the enchanting villages that cling to the cliffs, or dine in the Chianti with a sunset view of Tuscan hills and vineyards.

The tour company also offers its customers the chance to skip the queue at museums and galleries such as the Uffizi and Accademia.

Other activities include pizza and gelato-making classes and Florence Walking Tours (complete with an aperitivo). Tuscan cooking classes and Chianti wine-tasting sessions are also available.

For more information visit: www.ciaoflorence.it

On Tour with Ciao Florence

THE BEST SUBS IN TOWN

Take Home Artisan Tradition With Furò e Punteruolo

Stepping into Paolo Fattori’s elegant leather workshop is a surprising experience: light and airy with clean lines and a minimalist feel, it’s where the modern world meets ancient Florentine tradition. Only the lingering scent of leather and the sight of Paolo busily working at an island bench indicates that this is, in fact, a bottega (workshop) producing finely crafted leather bags, backpacs, belts and various articles from the hands of the man himself.

Rolls of jewel-colored leather line the walls, numbered and certified by Tuscan company Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata al Vegetale, which practises an artisan method of vegetable-dyed leather that has its origins in the Renaissance. Although Paolo has only been working in leather fulltime for six years, he’s already

made a name for himself both in Florence and as far afield as Japan.

However, manual dexterity runs in Paolo’s veins; his father and grandfather worked in wood and iron, and he credits them with his ability.

“In Tuscany, manual skill is widespread and forms part of the ge-

Murano glass and Carnevale mask enthusiasts need not travel to Venice for quality souvenir items. Alvise Giustinian is a gift and art store specializing in Murano-made items and that guarantees the sale of purely Murano products, with no importation. Products include masks, jewelry, and glass objects for the home.

Jewelry has proven to be the shop’s most popular item, due to the ease of transport and availability of products starting at merely €5, according to its owner Paola. Alvise Giustinian’s spacious interior allows for an abundant selection of gifts and a comfortable shopping experience.

Paola’s customers tell her that pric-

es in this beautiful, museum-like shop are lower than those in Venice.

If you’re in Florence but looking for classic Venetian crafts such as papier-mâché masks and handmade glass, then Alvise Giustinian is a store worth a visit.

Discover Venice in Santa Croce

LIFESTYLE SALON & SPA Via de' Neri, 53-55/r 055 23 98 553 CONCEPT SALON - without appointment Via de' Neri, 49/r 055 28 28 41 CONCEPT SALON Via dei Benci, 5/r 055 21 92 27

Sandwiches, Salads, Soups, Onion Rings, Fries, Pasta & Fresh Fruit.

Mon. - Sat.: 10 a.m. - 7 p.m.

Via Sant'Egidio, 22/r

347 11 88 056 • theoilshoppe.it

netic heritage of the region,” he says. Indeed, Paolo’s workshop is named after the two principal instruments of the trade: the furò and punteruolo.

Drop by and watch the craftsman at work on Via del Giglio, 29/r, tucked in between San Lorenzo and SMN train station.

www.salonecontrasto.it

Alvise Giustinian Corso Tintori, 19/r 055 246 62 95 www.alvisegiustian.com

JUNE 2015

22 Florence News & Events

HISTORY

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Race for Glory

A short history of the Palio Twice a year, on July 2 and August ried on its tradition throughout 16, Siena’s bowl-shaped Piazza del the centuries (not simply brought Campo is covered with a thick lay- back for the twentieth century er of dirt, and the Palio takes over. out of nostalgia or for tourism) Understanding the Palio, however, thanks to the tenacity, pride, and is impossible without knowing its traditionalism of the Sienese. The history.

Palio was only ever cancelled The tradition began in the four- once (during World War II) – apart teenth century, when the districts from this incident the horses have of Siena known as the contrade raced each year since 1656. organized public races in compe- Since the first official Palio in 1656, tition with one another. just one race was initially held The first riders rode buffalos in each year on July 2, named Il Palio races called pali alla lunga, which di Provenzano, in honor of the Maweren’t confined to the Piazza del donna of Provenzano. The second, Campo but rather ran across the on August 16, began in 1701 and city. When bullfighting was out- was named Il Palio dell’Assunta, in lawed in 1590, horse races took honor of the Assumption of Mary. their place in the piazza.

Coinciding with the Feast of the Il Palio is one of only a few medi- Assumption, it is assumed that eval festivals in Italy that has car- this second palio was probably in-

troduced spontaneously as part of the celebration of feast.

Of the original 59, there are 17 contrade still in existence today; of these, only 10 are chosen to race in each year’s Palio. The seven contrade that do not take part in the previous year are automatically included, and three more are chosen by draw.

The morning of the competition begins with a special Mass to bless the riders and horses, followed by a colorful parade of the members of the contrade and their retinue that ends in the Piazza del Campo.

Each contrada’s participant enters the square around 3:30 p.m., but the main processional does not start until nearly 5 p.m., when a pageant of flag-throwers bearing

NAIMA

the colors and symbols of their districts perform in the piazza.

Although a very festive event, the honor at stake is no laughing matter. Districts are known to take extra measures to prevent rival contrade from winning: especially since historically enemies celebrate as joyfully as if they themselves had won it.

Cheating is commonplace since the race has very few rules: jockeys can pull, push and hit both the horses and each other, and use their whips on other competitors and their horses.

Il Palio is won not by the jockey, but by the horse who represents his contrada, so a horse can win without its rider if it’s the first to cross the line. The loser of the race

is considered to be the contrada whose horse came second, not last.

After a rapid and intense three laps around the Campo the race is over, and the celebrations or lamentations begin. The winning contrada is awarded the prestigious prize of a banner, called the palio or drappellone, which is thought to bring great luck to the district that wins it, and is newly designed each year by a local artist for the July Palio, or an internationally recognized artist for the August Palio.

Entrance is free; arrive before midday. Bleacher and balcony seats from €250 to €600 www.comune.siena.it

NAIMA

Via dell'Anguillara, 54/r I 347 19 41 013 sergiosalvifirenze@gmail.com

LIVE SPORT

JUNE 2015

24 Florence News & Events

EVENTS

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FAIRS & MARKETS

EXHIBITIONS

SWEET TRIUMPHS: SCULPTURES OF SUGAR ON THE TABLE OF THE MEDICI COURT Until June 7 Pitti Palace, Palatine Gallery Tuesday to Sunday 8:15 a.m.–6:50 p.m.; Closed on Monday NINO TIRINNANZI: METAPHYSICS OF BEAUTY Until June 7 Pitti Palace, Gallery of Modern Art Tuesday to Sunday 10 a.m.–7 p.m.; Closed on Monday www.polomuseale.firenze.it

MIRABILIA: THE ANIMAL, PLANT, MINERAL WORLD IN THE MEDICI PORTRAITS Until June 30 Natural History Museum – Zoology Section La Specola Tuesday to Sunday 10:30 a.m.–5:30 p.m.; Closed on Monday

CARLO DOLCI June 30 – November 15 Pitti Palace, Palatine Gallery Tuesday to Sunday 8:15 p.m.–6:50 p.m.; Closed on Monday www.polomuseale.firenze.it LAPIS LAZULI: THE MAGIC OF BLUE June 9 – October 11 The Medici Treasury 8:15 a.m.-6:30 p.m.; Closed on the 1st and the last Monday of each month GAVIN KENYON: LIFT YOUR HEAD, GIVE ME THE BEST SIDE OF YOUR FACE Until June 10 Marino Marini Museum 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Closed on Tuesdays, Sundays & Public Holidays GREAT SMALL BRONZES OF THE MEDICI AND GRANDUCAL COLLECTIONS Until June 21 National Archaeological Museum Monday, Saturday & Sunday 8:30 a.m.– 2 p.m.; Tuesday to Friday 8:30 a.m.– 7 p.m.

POWER & PATHOS: BRONZES OF THE HELLENISTIC WORLD Until June 21 Palazzo Strozzi Daily 9 a.m.–8 p.m.; Thursdays 9 a.m.–11 p.m.

GIANFRANCO FERRONI AT THE UFFIZI GALLERY Until July 5 Uffizi Gallery 10 a.m.–5 p.m. www.polomuseale.firenze.it CERAMICS OF THE FLORENTINE MANUFACTURE (1880-1920) THE BRUNO CAINI COLLECTION Until July 15 Exhibition Hall - Ente Cassa di Risparmio di Firenze Monday to Friday 9 a.m.–7 p.m.; Saturday & Sunday 10 a.m.–1 p.m./3 p.m.–7 p.m. www.entecarifirenze.it

LUTE PLAYER BY FRANCESCO SALVIATI FROM THE MUSÉE JACQUEMART-ANDRÉ Until July 20 Pitti Palace, Palatine Gallery Tuesday to Sunday 8:15 a.m.–6:50 p.m.; Closed on Monday

LYNN CHADWICK: A RETROSPECTIVE EXHIBITION FOR TWO GARDENS Until August 30 Villa Bardini & Boboli Garden Bardini Garden: Tuesday to Sunday 10 a.m.–7 p.m.; Closed on Monday; Boboli Garden until June 9; 8:15 a.m.–7:30 p.m.; Closed on 1st and last Monday of the month

HERO IN FLORENCE: SARACINO INTERPRETS MICHELANGELO Until September 20 Accademia Gallery 8:15 a.m.–6.50 p.m.; Closed on Monday

ANTONY GORMLEY: HUMAN Until September 29 Via S. Leonardo, 1 10 a.m.–8 p.m. (last entrance 7 p.m.); Closed on Monday www.musefirenze.it

ARTOUR BEAUTY IN THE SQUARE: TRAVELLING TRADE FAIR OF ITALIAN ARTISTIC HANDICRAFT June 2 Piazza Strozzi 10 a.m.–8 p.m. www.artex.firenze.it

IL MERCATALE DI FIRENZE: QUALITY PRODUCTS MARKET June 6 & 20 June 6: Piazza della Repubblica; June 20: Piazza Del Carmine, 2 8 a.m.–8 p.m.

BEES & BEEKEEPERS June 6–7 Piazza Santissima Annunziata 9 a.m.–7 p.m. www.lafierucola.org

PITTI IMMAGINE BIMBO Collections for kids June 25–27 Fortezza da Basso

CIOMPI MONTHLY ANTIQUE FAIR June 28 Piazza dei Ciompi 9 a.m.–6 p.m.

FOLKLORE & FOLK FESTIVALS

HISTORICAL FLORENTINE SOCCER TOURNAMENT: SEMIFINALS TORNEO SAN GIOVANNI June 13–14 Piazza di Santa Croce 5 p.m. www.comune.fi.it

A RENAISSANCE DINNER TABLE Until October 31 Bargello National Museum 8:15 a.m.–5 p.m.; Closed on Monday

SANTO SPIRITO FAIR June 14 Piazza Del Carmine, 0 9 a.m.–7:30 p.m.

MAGNIFICENT Until October 31 Palazzo Vecchio Monday to Sunday 9 a.m.–7 p.m.

Monday to Sunday 9 a.m.–7 p.m. (last show at 6:30pm); Thursday 9 a.m.–2 p.m. (last show at 1:30 p.m.)

HISTORICAL FLORENTINE SOCCER TOURNAMENT: FINAL MATCH TORNEO SAN GIOVANNI June 24 Piazza di Santa Croce 5 p.m. www.comune.fi.it

PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO June 16–19 Fortezza da Basso I FOCHI DI SAN GIOVANNI: FIREWORKS DISPLAY June 24 at 10 p.m.

SPORT PIERO DI COSIMO June 22 – September 27 Uffizi Gallery 8:15 a.m.–6:50 p.m.; Closed on Monday 1940-1944 FLORENCE AT WAR: HISTORY AND MEMORY Until June 28 Medici Riccardi Palace

SCULPTURE ALSO DIES: SCULPTURE BEYOND 2000′S Until July 26 CCC Strozzina

SACRED TREASURES OF MEDICI FAMILY DEVOTION Until November 3 Museum of Medici Chapels Monday to Sunday 8:15 a.m.–4:50 p.m.; Closed on the 2nd and 4th Sunday and 1st, 3rd and 5th Monday of each month

ST. JOHN’S EVENING RUN June 20 at 9 p.m.

Piazza Duomo www.firenzemarathon.it FORTEZZA ANTIQUARIA: ANTIQUE MARKET June 20–21 Piazza Vittorio Veneto 8 a.m.–8 p.m.

FIVB VOLLEYBALL WORLD LEAGUE: ITALY VS. BRAZIL June 21 at 8 p.m.

Nelson Mandela Forum www.boxol.it

JUNE 2015

Florence News & Events 25

ENTERTAINMENT

www.florencenewsandevents.com

ODEON CINEMA

Piazza Strozzi, Firenze 055 214 068 Office: 055 295 051 www.odeonfirenze.com Tickets: regular: €7.50; reduced: €6* *Every Wednesday; students from Mon. to Fri. and selected partnerships.

DIRECTOR: George Miller STARS: Charlize Theron, Tom Hardy PLOT: In the furthest reaches of our planet, where humanity is broken, and everyone is fighting for the necessities of life, there are two rebels who just might be able to restore order – Max, a man of action and few words, who seeks peace of mind following the loss of his wife and child in the aftermath of the chaos, and Furiosa, a woman of action who believes her path to survival may be achieved if she can make it across the desert back to her childhood homeland.

DIRECTOR: Davis Ayer STARS: Brad Pitt, Shia LaBoeuf & Logan Lerman PLOT: Brad Pitt leads a tank crew in the final days of World War II in this war drama from End of Watch’s David Ayer. The year is 1945.

Battle-hardened army sergeant Wardaddy (Brad Pitt) is the grizzled commander of a Sherman tank. Determined to strike a decisive victory for the Allies in the European Theater, Wardaddy leads his five-man crew on a treacherous mission behind enemy lines. His mission complicated by the sudden appearance of a rookie soldier in his platoon, the sergeant knows that victory is within reach, and vows to achieve it by any means necessary.

DATES/HOURS: Monday, June 8: 5:00, 9:00 p.m.

Tuesday, June 9: 5:00, 9:00 p.m.

Wednesday, June 10: 5:00, 9:00 p.m.

DIRECTOR: Colin Treverrow STARS: Chris Patt & Judy Greer PLOT: Twenty-two years after the events of Jurassic Park (1993), Isla Nublar now features a fully functioning dinosaur theme park, Jurassic World, as originally envisioned by John Hammond. This new park is owned by the Patel Corporation. Owen (Chris Pratt), a member of Jurassic World’s on-site staff, conducts behavioral research on the Velociraptors. After 10 years of operation, Jurassic World’s visitor attendance rates begin to decline. In order to fulfill a corporate mandate, a new attraction, a geneticallyenhanced hybrid dinosaur, the Indominus Rex is created to re-spark visitor’s interest, a decision that ends up backfiring in a catastrophic way.

DIRECTOR: Maya Forbes STARS: Zoe Saldana, Mark Ruffalo PLOT: A manic-depressive mess of a father tries to win back his wife by attempting to take full responsibility of their two young, spirited daughters, who don’t make the overwhelming task any easier.

DATES/HOURS: Monday, June 29: 5:15, 9:00 p.m.

ODEON CULT

DATES/HOURS: Thursday, June 18: 5:00, 9:00 p.m.

Friday, June 19: 5:00, 9:00 p.m.

Saturday, June 20: 5:00, 9:00 p.m.

Sunday, June 21: 5:00, 9:00 p.m.

DATES/HOURS: Monday, June 1: 5:15, 9:00 p.m.

Tuesday, June 2: 5:15, 9:00 p.m.

Wednesday, June 3: 5:15, 9:00 p.m.

DIRECTOR: Billy Wilder Stars: Marilyn Monroe, Tony Curtis & Jack Lemmon PLOT: When two musicians witness a mob hit, they flee the state in an all-female band disguised as women, but further complications set in.

DATE/HOUR: Thursday, June 4: 9:00 p.m.

DIRECTOR: Brad Bird STARS: George Clooney, Britt Robertson & Huge Laurie PLOT: Bound by a shared destiny, a teen bursting with scientific curiosity and a former boy-genius inventor embark on a mission to unearth the secrets of a place somewhere in time and space that exists in their collective memory.

DATES/HOURS: Thursday, June 4: 5:00 p.m.

Friday, June 5: 5:00, 9:00 p.m.

Saturday, June 6: 5:00, 9:00 p.m.

Sunday, June 7: 5:00, 9:00 p.m.

DIRECTOR: Jean-Pierre Jeunet STARS: Helena Bohnam Carter, Judy Dabis & Callum Keith Rienne PLOT: T.S. Spivet lives on a remote ranch in Montana with his parents, his sister Gracie and his brother Layton. A gifted child with a passion for science, he has invented a perpetual motion machine, for which he has been awarded the prestigious Baird Prize by the Smithsonian Institution in Washington.

He leaves a note for his family and boards a freight train to make his way across the United States and receive his prize. But no one there suspects that the lucky winner is a 10-year-old child with a very dark secret...

DIRECTOR: Alan Rickman STARS: Kate Winslet & Matthias Schoenaets PLOT: Alan Rickman’s second film as director hits the screens. A Little Chaos is a romantic drama following Sabine (Academy Award winner Kate Winslet), a strong-willed and talented landscape designer who is chosen to build one of the main gardens at King Louis XIV’s new palace at Versailles. In her new position of power, she challenges gender and class barriers while also becoming professionally and romantically entangled with the court’s renowned landscape artist André Le Notre (Matthias Schoenaerts).

DATES/HOURS: Monday, June 15: 5:30, 9:00 p.m.

Tuesday, June 16: 5:30, 9:00 p.m.

Wednesday, June 17: 5:30, 9:00 p.m.

Monday, June 22: 5:30 p.m.

Tuesday, June 23: 5:30, 9:00 p.m.

DATES/HOURS: Wednesday, June 24: 5:15, 9:00 p.m.

Thursday, June 25: 5:15, 9:00 p.m.

Friday, June 26: 5:15, 9:00 p.m.

Saturday, June 27: 5:15, 9:00 p.m.

Sunday, June 28: 5:15, 9:00 p.m.

DIRECTOR: Blake Edwards STARS: Stan Laurel, Oliver Hardy & Jimmy Durante PLOT: Jimmy Durante is jungle star Schnarzan the Conqueror, but the public is tiring of his fake lions. So when Baron Munchausen comes to town with real man-eating lions, Durante throws a big party with so that he might use the lions in his next movie. His film rival sneaks into the party to buy the lions before Durante.

DATE/HOUR: Thursday, June 18: 9:00 p.m.

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26 Florence News & Events

SAN GIMIGNANO

www.florencenewsandevents.com

Fiera delle Messi Celebrates Harvest from June 13–15

The medieval festival Fiera delle Messi, held every year on the third weekend of June returns from June 13–15 for its 15th edition.

The festival is a modern version of the Harvest Feast of the Middles Ages, when San Gimignano, as well as other towns in central Italy, celebrated the harvest with music, dances and jousts. It aims to re-create atmosphere of the harvest period, complete with costumes and knights of the Middle Ages.

The event, organized by the Cavalieri di Santa Fina, an association that comemmorates the past of San

Gimignano (whose name comes from Fina dei Ciardi, patron of the city) begins at 9:30 p.m. on Friday, June 13 in Piazza Duomo and goes until 11 p.m, with medieval dances, drums and knights exhibits.

On Saturday, the festivities begin at 4 p.m. with a reproduction of a military camp in the Rocca di Montestaffoli. At 4:30 a colorful costume parade arrives in Piazza Duomo, marking the start of other attractions and events that closes at night with music and dancing in the piazza.

On Sunday, the festival events start

at 11 a.m. with a medieval market in Piazza delle Erbe. It features the military camp at the Rocca di Montestaffol, with traditional music and dancing. At 4:50, preceding a costume parade and a joust, a flag-thrower show is scheduled. The parade will have more than 500 men dressed in handmade costumes.

At 7 p.m. the Joust of Bastioni is scheduled to take place, along with the borough’s knights challenging to win a prize gold blade. The festival conclude around 7:30 p.m. with a circle dance involving both participants and visitors.

Musica da Vino Returns on July 5

Wine-tasting and classical music: the Musica da Vino formula hosted annually by Fattoria il Piano continues on July 5 with a concert by the Boccherini Ensemble. The group features guitarists from the Luigi Boccherini Scuola di Musica of Lucca performing music by Boccherini, as well as music of Spanish and Mexican origin. It follows a yearly tradition of the prestigious music academy, which sends some of its top students to perform at Il Piano.

The Boccherini Ensemble marks the second in the series of four annual concerts, which began last month with Two Germans in Tuscany. The evening begins with guests enjoying tasting selection of Il Piano wines, followed by the concert. A typical Tuscan feast proceeds, under the stars at the winery’s picturesque and elegant villa.

Perched at the top of a hill facing the medieval town of San Gimignano, the Fattoria il Piano has a splendid view overlooking Tuscan trees, vineyards and olive groves. The converted farmhouses offer guests a comfortable stay with apartments and a panoramic swimming pool featuring sunbeds, umbrellas and a changing room. Surrounding fields, woods and stretches of agricultural can be explored on foot or mountain bikes, which may be hired locally.

Fattoria il Piano offers wine-tasting tours that begin with a stroll through the vineyards, family chapels and even the underground cellar, carved out of the earth by local workers in 1925. Accompanied by a selection of local foods, the tasting of local wines takes place on the veranda with a magnificent view of the San Gimignano towers.

Musica da Vino

A series of exclusive concerts accompanied by Fine Wines and Tuscan food

First taste our premier wines and visit our cantina.

Then relax and listen to some outstanding musicians.

Finally enjoy a typical Tuscan feast under the stars.

Reservations required to book go to www.MusicaDaVino.com

Fattoria Il Piano San Gimignano

LOCALITA MONTAUTO -53037 SAN GIMIGNANO ( SI ) www.Fattoriailpiano.it | FB: Il Piano wines and wine tasting WINES & WINE TASTINGS : (0039) 320 631 46 55 • fattoriailpiano@gmail.com • AGRITOURISMO : (0039) 0577 940 551 • info@fattoriailpiano.it

JUNE 2015

Florence News & Events 27

SAN GIMIGNANO

www.florencenewsandevents.com

Explore the Gagliardi Contemporary Art Gallery

The Galleria Gagliardi was established in 1991, in a 400-square-meter space once used as a garage and farm machinery store. Today, the Galleria bears absolutely no resemblance to the original building apart from a section of the floor made up of oak boards, covering a hole which once enabled repairs to the underside of cars and machinery in the absence of a ramp. This work of art was created by the previous

owner, Dino Conforti, and has been left in his memory. Since 1991, the exhibition area of the gallery has been extended and the gallery has now become a cultural reference for the promotion and sale of contemporary art. Every work is chosen directly from the studios of artists who constantly experiment new solutions through their research, renewing their approach and skills.

The gallery exhibits ceramic, bronze

Adopting Cows

Dondoli’s master gelato secrets

and marble sculptures; conceptual, abstract and figurative paintings as well as works in steel, iron and wood

by Italian and international artists.

Galleria Gagliardi Contemporary Art

Via San Giovanni, 57 San Gimignano galleria@galleriagagliaradi.com

A Journey Through Human Cruelty The Torture and Death Penalty Museum displays more than 100 tools designed to torture and kill. Some of these tools are extremely rare, dating to the sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. They include the notorious ‘iron maiden,’ the guillotine, rack, torture chair and the chastity belt. Also on display are lesser-known sophisticated devices, such as the ‘heretic’s fork,’ the ‘noisemaker’s fife,’ the ‘Spanish spider’, and flaying instruments.

Via San Giovanni, 82 & 125 San Gimignano Open daily: 10 a.m.-8 p.m.

0577-940526, 055-940151 Tickets: Full €10 Concessions: €7; Groups: €5 Ticket valid for free admission to the Museum of Death Penalty www.museodellatortura.it

What’s the best investment for the best gelato? Buy and nurture, in a completely natural way, the best cows.

That’s the answer from gelato master Sergio Dondoli, who recently bought 10 cows from Poggio di Camporbiano, a local farm wellknown for its biodynamic products.

Having opened his gelateria in 1992 in the central square of San Gimignano, Dondoli has always researched quality through the products of the territory around San Gimignano, located in the sunny Tuscan hills.

Dondoli’s work has clearly paid off:

his gelateria is ranked as the second gourmet gelateria in the world in the Lonely Planet traveller guide book, and D0ndoli himself has been a gelato world champion for both the 2006/2007 and 2008/2009 seasons.

His most famous, copyrighted ‘creations’ are Crema di Santa Fina, made with saffron and pine nuts; the Champelmo, made with pink grapefruit and sparkling wine; Dolceamaro, a cream made of aromatic herbs; Sorbetto di Vernaccia, inspired by San Gimignano’s most famous wine (Vernaccia); and Venere Nera, made with blackberries and lavender.

Chianti in Music

The first concert scheduled for Armonia in Ville e Castelli, a summer concert series performed in Chianti villas, takes place on Saturday, June 20 at Villa Vignamaggio in Greve in Chianti.

The concert begins at 7:30 p.m. and features performances by the award-winning Chicas del David flute trio. The price for an aperitivo and concert ticket is €30, or €50 with the addition of dinner.

Subsequent performances are scheduled throughout the months of July, August and September.

For more information, visit the Tourist Office in Greve in Chianti or call 055-853606.

Le Torri

MONTAGLIARI FARMHOUSE COOKING CLASSES & WINE TASTINGS

Located in V. San Giovanni, Cindarella offers shoes, jackets, socks, belts, bags, scarves, clothing and accessories all rigorously Made in Italy and selected for clients who wish to experience a unique shopping experience, just like in a fairytale...

The company Le Torri was born for collecting, producing and selling highquality artisan leather goods with leather exclusively ‘Made in Italy,’ something that is not easy to find today.

The three shops are located in Via San Giovanni. Products include bags for women, business bags for men, belts, wallets, as well as other goods and can be purchased both online and in store.

Daily: 9:30 a.m. - 8:30 p.m.

Daily: 9.30 a.m. - 8.30 p.m.

Since 1720 Fattoria Montagliari has produced Chianti Classico DOCG, Chianti Classico Riserva, Brunesco di San Lorenzo IGT, grappa, brandy, amaro di San Lorenzo, aged vin santo, extra-virgin olive oil, and aged Trebbiano balsamic (20 and 28 years).

Products can be purchased from the online shop as well as in the farm store and restaurant. The farm, located in the heart of Chianti, offers cooking classes and wine tastings.

KEEP CALM & BUY SHOES

“Cindarella is the living proof that a pair of shoes can change your life”

Via San Giovanni, 36 San Gimignano 334 397 4862

‘MADE IN ITALY’ LEATHER

Via San Giovanni, 22-24 Via San Giovanni, 34 Via San Giovanni, 117 San Gimignano 0577 940 851 www.letorrionline.com

Bus stop: ‘Cappelli’ between Lamole Panzano in Chianti.

V. Montagliari, 29 Panzano in Chianti 055 85 20 14 info@fattoriamontagliari.com www.fattoriamontagliari.com

JUNE 2015

28 Florence News & Events

LEISURE

www.florencenewsandevents.com

Discover the Adventure Park for Kids and Adults Alike

Have Fun in Tuscany on Horseback

Ivana Scatola

Reachable in 15 minutes with Bus 25A from Piazza San Marco If you thought art was all Florence had to offer, think again. A fantastic opportunity to get yourself and the kids out into the fresh air is a day at an adventure park.

Just outside Florence in Pratolino is Tuscany’s largest forest adventure park, Il Gigante.

Taking you high up into the trees to climb, jump, and slide along zip-wires, the park has more than 10 rope courses at six different difficulty levels, based on age and height, with the training and assistance of expert instructors. And it’s not just for adults!

The hardest black-ropes course is 15 meters above the ground, but there are also many courses suitable for kids aged three years and

up.

It’s the perfect location for all kinds of celebrations, such as birthday parties, with discounts available for school groups and scouts/summer camp groups.

The trails, meadows, and picnic areas also offer a great place to escape from the city and have fun in nature.

Located in the woods of Poggio la Garena of Pratolino, just across from the Medici Villa Demidoff, the adventure park is reachable by ATAF bus 25A from the Piazza San Marco stop ‘La Pira’, or by SITA bus 306 from the train station.

Those who fear heights or simply don’t wish to climb can enter for free and relax at the corner bar.

LA TORRE OSTERIA ET BOTTEGA Located in Scarperia, a small town about a 30-minute drive from Florence, Osteria La Torre offers a menu comprised of the best culinary traditions of the Mugello area, revised in a modern way to maintain their simplicity and authenticity. Among the special dishes are the Tortelli Mugellani served with several kinds of ragù sauces and Florentine steaks.

Mon. & Wed.: 10 a.m. - 3p.m.

Thu. - Sun.: 10 a.m. - 12 a.m.

Closed on Tuesdays

Facebook: La Torre Osteria et Bottega Sp 551 loc. la Torre 15 Scarperia-San Piero (FI) 055 84 02 240 latorresrl12@gmail.com

Opening Hours: June to September Tuesday to Sunday: 10 a.m.– sunset Rest of the season Saturday, Sunday and festival days: 10 a.m.– sunset Closed December to February The park can be booked outside of these hours for groups of minimum 10 people.

Via Fiorentina, 276–5036 www.parcoavventurailgigante.it

MEDITERRANEAN SEAFOOD SPECIALTIES San Carlo bar offers continental and American breakfast and brunch, simple but refined lunch, a large aperitivo buffet, and an extensive wine and cocktail list. Music and art create a warm, lively atmosphere while friendly staff members are always ready to cater to any requests. San Carlo is a bar suited to any time of day: great for a quick coffee or snack, a leisurely aperitivo or meal, or simply an afterdinner drink with friends.

Specialty: TUNA STEAK Borgo Ognissanti, 32-34/r 055 21 68 79 info@sancarlofirenze.it www.sancarlofirenze.it

Having explored Tuscany on horseback, the only way this experience could compare would be experiencing it via Vespa or quad bike – two options that tour operator Fun in Tuscany offers as well.

The day was jam-packed with new experiences, beautiful sights and tastes, and a wonderful group of people: unquestionably one of the best I’ve had in Tuscany yet.

After a hack through a beautiful Tuscan forest that wove in and out of vineyards, we tasted the range of gorgeous homemade honey. We then went on to the ancient hilltop town of San Gimignano (built in 1300), where we experienced incredible gelato and stunning Tuscan views, before moving onto a restaurant villa in which we were given a private room and a traditional Tuscan three-course meal to accompany our wine-tasting.

Fun In Tuscany’s success is attributed to the fact that the tour is unlike other typical, ‘supermarket

tourism’ tour organisers. All tours are undertaken in groups of maximum eight people, and cater to the interests of the group. Private time is provided so that people can explore the place themselves, yet the option is available to follow an organiser if they so wish.

In this way, the group and the tour have a very intimate and personal feel, and you really gain the strong impression that the organisers are truly interested in you as people, instead of simply tourists and clients. They took us to places I would never have been able to find myself if I were organising a personal trip; such as a gelateria that has twice won the Gelato World Championships in San Gimignano. They were incredibly obliging to our requests and questions and refreshingly knowledgeable. What I loved seeing most was that they really were enjoying themselves on the tour along with us – having true, genuine ‘Fun in Tuscany.’

JUNE 2015

30 Florence News & Events

TRAVEL

Brooke Feichtl

www.florencenewsandevents.com

Limoncello, Sun and Black Sandy Beaches

Visiting the Amalfi Coast with Bus2alps

When first visiting this region, visitors are greeted with the sight of Known for its picturesque sights Mount Vesuvius looming over the and a laid-back beach vibe that countryside and dramatic views of has attracted celebrities, week- traditional cities built into sloping end jetsetters and college students cliffs. from all around the world, the As the tour journeys to the Isle of Amalfi Coast is one of Italy’s true Capri, visitors experience a mystical place that is home to many anparadises.

It is also the site of a variety of un- cient myths, including the sirens missable destinations, including from Homer’s Odyssey.

Naples, Pompeii and the Isle of On the private boat tour around Capri. Summer sees the region in the island provided by Bus2alps, full swing, making the trip with you too will be captivated, not by Bus2alps to the Isle of Capri and mythical creatures, but by the natthe seaside towns of Positano and ural beauty of the area. Visitors also journey to the world-famous Sorrento ideal.

Blue Grotto and the peak of Mount Solaro. The grotto is not only exceptional because it is an accessible sea cave, but the sunlight that travels through the entrance illuminates the clear water and creates brilliant blue and green hues.

Mount Solaro is the tallest point on Capri, reaching 589 meters and providing unparalleled views of the landscape. After sunbathing and exploring the island, visit the seaside town of Positano, a short ride from Sant’Agnello and Sorrento. Positano is made up of multicolored buildings that cling to the cliff above the hot black sand

and pebble beaches. Visitors can enjoy people-watching in the glorious surrounds and a variety of water sports. Only the Bus2alps tour includes a ferry to Capri with a private boat tour of the island, as well as transportation to Positano and Pompeii. The last day of the trip includes a tour of the ruins of Pompeii accompanied by an optional private guide, who recounts fascinating tales of the ancient city’s history.

The trip was awarded Second-Best Tour Worldwide and is the twotime winner of Best Tour in Europe

by TourRadar in 2012 and 2013.

• • • •

• • • •

Included

Round-trip luxury coach transport (with A/C, DVD, & bathroom) Accommodation with your friends at top-rated hostels Breakfast Private ferry to island of Capri with a private guided boat tour of the island (with a stop at the Blue Grotto) Private transfer to Positano Private transport to Pompeii A Bus2alps trip leader The Amalfi Coast Bus2alps destination guide

Il Cencio Unto YOGA & PILATES IN THE HEART OF FLORENCE • • •

Power Yoga Ashtanga Yoga Hatha Yoga

19r offers great workshops as well as destination retreats. Great student rates daily classes as well as Teacher Training.

See you on the mat!

Love and Light, Melissa and 19r

TUSCAN COLD CUTS AND FRESH SANDWICHES Located in Via de’ Cerchi, Il Cencio Unto is the place where you can taste various typical Tuscan cold cuts and tasting plates. Il Cencio Unto is very selective in its choice of products and offers fresh ingredients, made-to-order dishes with delicious toppings, and a wide selection of wines.

Specialty:

COCCOLI Open daily: 10-12 a.m.

FREE FIRST TRIAL Via dei Bardi, 19/r 339 19 70 902 19ryogapilates.com info@ 19ryogapilates.com

Via de’ Cerchi, 25/r 055 21 99 90 info@ilcenciounto.it www.ilcenciounto.it

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Florence News & Events 31

www.florencenewsandevents.com

Old-School Glamour and Modern Luxury

Known as the playground of the rich and famous, the French Riviera boasts more than glamour and billionaires. Also known as the Côte d’Azur, this paradise of spectacular beaches, gastronomy and rich history extends from the Italian border along the southeastern corner of the French coastline, including the sovereign state of Monaco.

Not only was it one of the first modern resort areas, but its color and light attracted numerous master artists such as Paul Signac, Cézanne, Van Gogh, Picasso and Matisse, who set up studios

Take a trip to the French Riviera with Bus2alps

along the coast. After World War II, the French Riviera became a popular tourist destination, and since then it has drawn countless celebrities, such as Brigette Bardot, Elton John, Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, Tina Turner and Bono. Today the French Riviera is no longer reserved only for the rich and elite but has become more accessible to tourists.

Nice is the Cote d’Azur’s largest city and offers many beautiful destinations, such as the Promenade des Anglais and Castle Hill, which offers some of the most incredible views overlooking the ocean and

HAMBURGERS AND AWARD-WINNING ARTISAN BEER Mostodolce craft brewery was the first of its kind to open in Prato and now supplies twin pubs in Prato and Florence with its award-winning artisan beer. From pitchblack stout to honey beer and a seasonal Christmas variety made from chestnuts, Mostodolce’s range appeals to the most earthy and subtle of palates. Match your choice with complementary dishes created in the pub kitchen: from the hefty flavours of smoked ribs and tortelloni with wild boar ragout to light snacks and the intriguingly named ‘birramisu’.

Open daily: 11–2 a.m.

Via Nazionale, 114/r (near the train station) 055 23 02 928 www.mostodolce.it

TRAVEL

city. Activities available include scuba diving, sailing and canyoning; however, for a more relaxed day of exploration the city also offers museums and the famous Cours Saleya flower market.

The preserved medieval village of Eze, situated high on the Grand Corniche (1400 feet above sea level), is another location for gorgeous views and is also home to the Fragonard Parfumerie, a famous French perfume factory and shop that is open for tours. Antibes is another beautiful medieval coastal village known for its 48 beaches, and the IYC, home to some of the

world’s biggest super yachts. It’s the perfect place to lounge on the beach, eat in the open-air market, visit the Picasso Museum and shop at the many quaint shops.

The glamour Monaco is absolutely not to be missed while vacationing on the Cote d’Azur. The world’s second smallest sovereign state is internationally known not only for its renowned Monte Carlo Casino but also for the Prince’s Palace of Monaco, where American actress Grace Kelly resided as Princess of Monaco.

An unbeatable spring getaway for students in Florence who want to

• • • • • •

Included

Round-trip luxury coach transport (with A/C, DVD, & bathroom) Accommodation with your friends at top-rated hostels Breakfast (optional upgrade available) Entrance to Fragonard perfumery with included tour The French Riviera Bus2alps destination guide Bus2alps trip leader

Il Supermercato... da Gustare e deGustare

Sapori & Dintorni is the new way to do the shopping: in the heart of Florence there is a place where Food, Culture and Territory meet.

Get in and discover the Supermarket to test and taste!

Inside you will find many typical products of the Italian food tradition.

Buy your favorite product and taste it within the tasting area.

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THE SUPERMARKETS ARE OPEN: • Monday - Saturday: from 08.30 am to 9.00 pm • Sunday: from 09.30 am to 9.00 pm