Florence News & Events September 2015

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September 2015

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PAGE 3 Uffizi and Accademia Appoint Foreign Directors

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Vogue Fashion’s Night Out Returns on September 17

Florence International Antiques Fair Returns on September 26

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Movement, change and revolution

As the heat of summer gives way to the cooler breezes of fall, Florence comes back to life with some of the most popular events of the year.

This September sees more than just a change of season in the air, with newly appointed museum directors Eike Schmidt and Cecilie Hollberg taking the reins of the Uffizi Gallery and the Accademia, respectively: the first foreign-born directors in the institutions’ history. The theme

of breaking with tradition also coincides with exhibitions on show: Dalí Meets Dante showcases two artists renowned for their groundbreaking contribution to the arts, while Carlo Dolci: 1616–1687 explores some of the highly innovative techniques employed by this artist to create exquisitely detailed works. An exhibition designed to run concurrently with Pope Francis’s highly anticipated visit in November, Divine Beauty

from Van Gogh to Chagall and Fontana opens on September 24 at Palazzo Strozzi with an examination of the tumultuous relationship between modern art and religion over the course of a century, with more than 100 works by Italian and international artists, including Vincent Van Gogh, Edvard Munch, Pablo Picasso, Max Ernst and Henri Matisse.

The Bargello National Museum hosts Adi Da Samraj’s multisen-

sory interpretation of the Orpheus and Eurydice myth with The Ascent of Orpheus, which challenges ideas of linear perspective that have dominated ideas of Western art since the Renaissance.

Taking its marks on September 27, the Corri la Vita charity walk and competitive run makes the most of the lingering warm days, with a scenic route through city to raise money for breast cancer research.

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Uffizi Shows ‘Fairytale’ Carlo Dolci on Display Piero di Cosimo at the Palatine Gallery

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Asli Kangal The Uffizi Gallery features a major exhibition on Florentine Renaissance painter Piero di Cosimo until September 27. The exhibition showcases numerous works by the ‘fairytale’ artist, who worked between the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, including the famed A Satyr Mourning Over a Nymph from the National Gallery in London.

In total, 100 works are on display, including masterpieces by Filippino Lippi, Fra’ Bartolomeo and Lorenzo di Credi, all of which have been specially restored for the occasion. The exhibition explores Piero di Cosimo’s unique style, by tracing his artistic development starting from his apprenticeship under Cosimo Rosselli, from whom he derived his name, and his decisive encounters with the artworks of Leonardo da Vinci and

the Flemish masters. These artists inspired Piero di Cosimo to take an interest in precise reproduction of nature and the representation of emotional states, as seen by the intensity of the smiling faces in his Madonna with Child and Angels on show in the exhibition.

During his lifetime, Piero di Cosimo also acquired a reputation for his eccentricity. Renaissance biographer Giorgio Vasari describes him as a solitary, unconventional painter with an untidy appearance, who was “more like a beast than a man.” The Uffizi allows visitors to rediscover the eccentric artist, too often forgotten in modern times.

Piero di Cosimo

An eccentric ‘Florentine’ painter from the Renaissance to the modern manner Until September 27 Uffizi Gallery

After the restoration of 33 works

by Carlo Dolci, the Palatine Gallery is hosting an exhibition on the famous Florentine painter until November 15. Carlo Dolci: 1616–1687 allows viewers to expand their knowledge of Dolci’s painterly technique, which included a range of highly original methods, such as the application of gold dust to create a nuanced effect for haloes.

An artist lauded by the critics and biographers of his day for producing works unique to their genre, Dolci was popular with members of the Medici family and the European aristocracy, distinguishing himself with the masterly definition of his figures, which were often captured in poses of ecstasy, and his devoted attention to detail. Describing Dolci’s ability to paint jewels, his biographer Filippo Baldinucci wrote that they were “imitated in such an as-

tounding (and real) fashion that, however much one might touch the canvas to make sure that they were in fact painted, the eye still harboured doubt.”

The exhibition showcases works taken from some of Florence’s leading museums as well as renowned public and private international collections, including the British Museum in London, the Musée du Louvre in Paris, the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza in Madrid and the Royal Collection of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, who has loaned Dolci’s fabulous Salome with the Head of St. John the Baptist for the occasion, which has never been shown in Italy before.

Carlo Dolci: 1616–1687 Until November 15 Palatine Gallery, Palazzo Pitti www.unannoadarte.it

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Uffizi Goes Wi-fi

Museum Revolution

reconstructions, virtual reality and high-resolution videos.

The portal provides information about the Uffizi events and exhibitions, and contains an introduction to the gallery, maps of various museum areas, the contents of the new Uffizi project and a description of the activities of the Friends of the Uffizi, especially those regarding restoration of artworks.

The network has 68 transmission points, 150 network devices and six CED control units (routers, firewalls, gateways, controllers, servers and backup drives). The area covered by wi-fi is approximately 13,000 square meters, within which 500 users can simultaneously connect. To realize the work it took eight months and cost €170,000.

The Friends of the Uffizi can be found on various social networks, including Facebook (/amicidegliuffizi), Twitter (/AmiciUffizi) and Instagram (/amicidegliuffizi).

NEWS

Foreign directors appointed to manage Uffizi and Accademia

Eike Schmidt

The Uffizi now has a wi-fi access-controlled network covering both floors of the gallery. The project, which was made possible by the Friends of the Uffizi association, gives visitors the opportunity to access information about the museum from its new website and from the pages dedicated to the museum on the Polo Museale Fiorentino website. Information will be initially offered in Italian and English, with the possibility of adding other languages in the future.

Ease of use, simplicity of language and mobility are the main characteristics of the project, which is aimed at a wide audience, including those who do not have specific technical knowledge, as the portal is simple to access even to users unfamiliar with new technology.

The project can also be used for future initiatives and museum projects, such as applications, 3D

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Cecilie Hollberg

For the first time in history, Ita- ian museum system, find alternaly’s museums have foreign direc- tive funding to tight government tors at the helm, with the Uffizi budgets, implement museum Gallery and the Academia being performances, and introduce managed by German directors new services in museums such as starting this fall. On August 20, bookshops and cafes.

Italy’s Minister of Culture ap- “We are turning a page, with these pointed new directors to man- appointments; Italy’s museums age some of its most important will make up for lost decades. It museums. The new director of is a historic step for Italy and its the Uffizi is Eike Schmidt, an ex- museums that will establish the pert in Renaissance and Baroque basis for a modernization of our sculpture, while the Academia is museum system,” said Francoming under the management ceschini. The nomination sees of historian and cultural manag- Schmidt return to a city where he er Cecilie Hollberg. studied for seven years to which, Schmidt has previously worked at he said, he still is “in debt.” the Getty Museum in Los Angeles Schmidt’s first announcement and Sotheby’s auction house in raised the possibility of impleLondon. Hollberg has been direc- menting a new system to improve tor of the Germany’s Municipal entrance to the museum using Museum (Städtisches Museum) new technology, such as pursince 2010. chasing tickets with a cell phone The reason for the striking nomi- and opening the museum’s nees – seven out of 20 of the new rooms to private rent for events. directors appointed by Minister Schmidt defended this approach, of Culture Dario Franceschini saying that such rentals are quite are foreign, while 10 of them are common in America, but that it women – is to modernize the Ital- was a principle that needed to be

James Bradburne adjusted to an Italian context and the Uffizi.

Other foreign directors include former director of Palazzo Strozzi in Florence, British-Canadian James Bradburne (Pinacoteca di Brera in Milan); Peter Aufreiter, formerly of Vienna’s Belvedere Museum (National Gallery of the Marche); Austrian Peter Assmann, (Palazzo Ducale, Mantua); German Gabriel Zuchtriegel (Paestum Archaeology Park in southern Italy); and French national Sylvain Bellenger (Capodimonte Museum, Naples).

The revolution of museum management has aroused much controversy in Italy. While the ministry and government defended their choices saying that the museums needed the change and are now in the hands of some of the best possible managers who cannot be called ‘foreigners’ as they are all European, leading Italian art critic and television star Vittorio Sgarbi vigorously attacked the minister.

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Visiting the Medici Kitchens

Palazzo Pitti’s Cucinone reopens

The restoration of the Medici kitchen complex, the so-called cucinone, has been completed and is open to public only through guided visits by Palatine Gallery personnel from Tuesday to Sunday (10:30–11:30 a.m. and 3:30–4:40 p.m.).

The restoration began earlier this year and cost approximately €100,000.

With their fireplaces, ovens, sinks, and various utensils, the kitchens were originally built in the years between 1588 and 1599, in time for the celebrations of the marriage between Maria de’ Medici and Henry IV, King of France, and were used to prepare food for three dynasties of Italian nobility: the Medici, Lorraine, and Savoy families.

In the period between 1631 and 1640, the kitchens became part of the building complex, while in

the following century, the kitchen area underwent several important transformations in architecture.

After WWII they fell into disuse and slowly deteriorated, and were even used to store furniture from the Palatine Gallery.

Visitors to Palazzo Pitti are now able to explore the sophisticated aspects of everyday living that took place in its grand rooms and monumental apartments.

With the restoration complete, it is possible to envision the work that went on to prepare dinners for the Grand Duke and his guests, and view the utensils that were commonly used in different eras.

The re-opening is part of Polo Museale Fiorentino’s series of exhibitions commemorating the Milan Expo theme of ‘Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life’ with a focus on Florentine and Tuscan culinary heritage.

Forte Belvedere Hosts Gormley

Forte Belvedere is hosting an exhibit on Antony Gormley, one of the most acclaimed sculptors working today.

Human brings together more than 100 works by Gormley in the inner rooms of the villa, the bastions, the staircases and the terraces, to occupy every side of the sixteenth-century fortress with its extraordinary views over the city and the surrounding hills.

At the core of the exhibition are two arrangements of the famous work Critical Mass II, an ‘anti-monument’ that comprises 12 body forms, each cast five times to produce a total number of 60 works that can exist in any orientation. Made in 1995, the work is a reflection of the darkest side of German history, dedicated to all the victims during the twentieth century. On the east side of the

lower terrace, 12 body forms of Critical Mass II are installed in a linear progression, from foetal to stargazing, recalling the ‘ascent of man.’

This dialectic between aspirational and abject is the tension that

The Medici Chapels Museum is presenting the exhibition Sacred Treasures of Medici Family Devotion.

On display until November 3, the exhibition showcases the Medici family’s collection of sacred and precious objects, commissioned

by Cosimo II and Maria Maddalena of Austria, which were once offered to religious sanctuaries and the state.

Some of these devotional items were even offered to shrines far beyond the family’s rule in Tuscany, which include those of Loreto, the Holy Land and Goa, India.

The priceless gifts, which have not been revealed to the public

since 1945, include votive crowns, mounts for altars, chalices, monstrances, reliquaries, candlesticks, holy wreaths, crosses and altar panels among many other valuable pieces.

Such treasures are not only indicators of the family’s unconditional devotion towards religion, but also reflect Medici wealth, culture, taste and undisputed economic and political prestige over Tuscany as a whole.

The range of precious stones skillfully worked into gold, silver, crystal and other precious materials also provide insight into the sophisticated and high level of craftsmanship achieved during

runs throughout the exhibition.

Human Until September 27 Forte di Belvedere Tue.–Sun.: 10 a.m – 8 p.m.

Free entrance

Medici Devotion Showcased

the era.

The exhibition, preceded by Sacred Splendor at the Medici Treasury and The Other Half of Heaven at the Casa Martelli Museum, completes the series of these three major displays dedicated to devotional themes.

Sacred Treasures of Medici Family Devotion Until November 3 Medici Chapels Museum Open daily: 8:15 a.m.–5 p.m.

(Closed on 2nd & 4th Sunday: 1st, 3rd & 5th Monday of each month) Cost: €8; €4 reduced www.polomuseale.firenze.it

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Dalì and Dante Meet at Palazzo Medici Riccardi

The exhibit Dalí Meets Dante is on display until September 27 at the Galleria delle Carrozze at Palazzo Medici Riccardi every day from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m..

A surrealist and provocative artist with a flamboyant personality, famous for his exploration of the unconscious, the interpretation of dreams and the fear of death and sexuality, Dalí undertook his nine-year journey into the world of Dante between 1951 and 1960, when, in the decade that marked the 700th anniversary of Dante’s birth, the Italian government commissioned him to illustrate The Divine Comedy.

It took Dalí almost a decade to create his 100 watercolors, 34 of which are dedicated to the Inferno, 33 to Purgatory, and 33 to Paradise.

Dalì illustrates and reinterprets Dante with a psychoanalytical slant by portraying the Comedy’s dream-like atmosphere through iconographic symbols, melting

figures, crutches and human limbs, blending the supernatural with an exploration of spirituality.

When it was first presented to the public in the 1960s, the project fell short of its expected success due to Dalí’s Spanish origins and the book’s controversial content.

However it was enthusiastically welcomed in Paris and entrusted to the hands of expert artisans, who created wood blocks used for the print run.

The Divine Comedy touches on and develops a fundamental theme of Christianity: humanity’s immortal soul. Dalí Meets Dante also presents artworks with a religious theme, amongst them the sculptures St. George and the Dragon and Adam and Eve, and The Last Supper in bas-relief.

Dalí’s relationship with religion was famously turbulent from childhood, turning his back on the Church as a teenager only to reconcile with it in his later years.

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Divine Beauty from Van Gogh to Chagall and Fontana

Exhibit at Palazzo Strozzi awaits Pope Francis’s benediction in November

Palazzo Strozzi is presenting the exhibition Divine Beauty from Van Gogh to Chagall and Fontana from September 24 to January 24, designed to run concurrently with the Fifth National Bishops Conference, which will held in Florence from November 9 to 13, and which Pope Francis is expected to attend.

The exhibition explores the relationship between art and religion from the mid-nineteenth to the mid-twentieth century and includes more than 100 works by famous Italian and international artists, including Domenico Morelli, Gaetano Previati, Felice Casorati, Gino Severini, Renato Guttuso, Lucio Fontana, Emilio Vedova, Vincent Van Gogh, JeanFrançois Millet, Edvard Munch,

Pablo Picasso, Max Ernst, Stanley Spencer, Georges Rouault and Henri Matisse.

The exhibition ranges from Morelli’s Realist painting to Vedova’s Informal Art, from Previati’s Divisionism to Redon’s Symbolism and from Munch’s Expressionism to the experimental approach proper to Futurism. Its objective is to analyse a century of modern religious art and highlight different takes on modernity, trends, and occasionally even clashes in the relationship between art and religious sentiment.

Divine Beauty includes celebrated works such as Jean-François Millet’s Angelus, on exceptional loan from the Musée d’Orsay in Paris, Vincent van Gogh’s Pietà from the Vatican Museums, Rena-

to Guttuso’s Crucifixion from the collections of the National Gallery of Modern Art in Rome, and Marc Chagall’s White Crucifixion from the Art Institute of Chicago, alongside pieces by artists whose work is lesser known but who have also helped to forge the rich and complex panorama of modern art.

With sections devoted to crucial themes in religious and artistic debate, Divine Beauty provides visitors with the opportunity to compare famous works of art observed in a new and different light.

The exhibition is a joint venture between the Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi, the former Polo Museale Fiorentino, the Archdiocese of Florence, and the Vatican Museums.

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The Ascent of Orpheus: Bargello Hosts Adi Da Samraj

Franciscan Art in Asia on Display at the Accademia

Mark Massey For the second time in its 150-year iva, the internationally acclaimed history the Bargello National Mu- Italian art critic and historian who seum is hosting a solo contempo- curated Samraj’s official collateral rary art show by American artist exhibition at the 2007 Venice BiAdi Da Samraj (1939–2008). ennale.

The exhibit is Samraj’s retelling of Adi Da Samraj created visual, litthe Orpheus and Eurydice myth. erary and performance art for Through nine large-scale pieces more than 40 years with the inand a multimedia projection, it tention of creating works to draw shows Samraj’s radical approach the viewer beyond the feeling of to “aperspectival, aniconic and ego separateness into that of “prianegoic” art. or unity.”

Drawn from the artist’s 2007 Or- His art encompasses drawings, pheus One and Linead One suites, paintings, sculptures and a large the digitally composed works body of groundbreaking photodemonstrate Samraj’s reach be- graphic, videographic and digitalyond the linear perspective and ly composed work. individual perspective that have Samraj’s work also appeared in dominated Western art since the solo exhibitions at the 2007 VenRenaissance. “The abstraction of ice Biennale and Florence’s OgAdi Da Samraj is anti-rhetorical nissanti, and in galleries in New and aspires to restore humanity York, Los Angeles, Miami, London to a state of contemplation and and Amsterdam. reflection,” said Achille Bonito Ol- “Adi Da’s pursuit of the spiritual

paths found in early abstraction, In a joint collaboration, the Accafrom Kandinsky to Mondrian, demia Gallery and the Order of and his translation of that pursuit Friars Minor present an exhibition into the digital age, restore a tran- highlighting the art of the Franscendental spirituality to the ma- ciscan movement between the terialism of the machine aesthet- thirteenth and fifteenth centuries. ic,” said Peter Weibel, Chairman of The exhibition also highlights ZKM Center for Art and Media in the Franciscan order’s success in Karlsruhe, Germany. spreading the gospel throughout In addition to being a prolific Asia. artist, Adi Da Samraj was also a Franciscan Art: Masterpieces of Italwidely recognized spiritual teach- ian art and Asian lands from the er who produced many volumes 13th to the 15th centuries runs till of literary, poetic, practical, phil- October 11 and displays such noosophical and spiritual writings. table works as the cuspidate panHis foundation has brought the els from the altar of Santa Croce’s legacy of Adi Da Samraj to audi- Bardi Chapel, painted glass by ences around the world. the Master of Figline, a significant artist in fourteenth-century Italy, and a panel depicting St Francis The Ascent of Orpheus Offering the Sultan Ordeal by Fire Until October 11 from the Alte Pinakothek in MuBargello National Museum nich, which is being displayed www.daplastique.com alongside fellow panels from its

original location of Santa Croce for the first time.

In addition to sculptures and paintings, the exhibit features a selection of archival documents and archaeological finds from the Museum of the Custody of the Holy Land in Jerusalem and the Museum of the Basilica of the Annunciation in Nazareth. Artists’ works on display include those attributed to Giunta di Capitino and Coppo di Marcovaldo, as well as those by the Master of St Francis and the Master of the Franciscan Crucifixes.

Franciscan Art:

Masterpieces of Italian art and Asian lands from the 13th to the 15th centuries

Until October 11 Accademia Gallery Tues–Sun: 8:15 a.m.–6:50 p.m. www.uffizi.firenze.it

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Open: Mon–Sat: 10 a.m.–7:30 p.m.; Sun: 11 a.m.–7 p.m.

Via Guicciardini, 2/r 055 23 98 450 www.pinart.it

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Running Against Breast Cancer

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Motivate Students with Psychodrama New project for educators arrives in Florence

Corri la Vita Returns on September 27 The Corri la Vita marathon is returning on September 27. Begun in 2003 to raise funds and breast cancer awareness in collaboration with the Italian Cancer Association, this year Corri la Vita marks its 13th edition. The event is also part of Expo 2015.

The marathon brings together charity, physical activity, culture and social commitment, with thousands of participants each year.

Athletes and non-athletes alike are welcome to participate in the five-kilometer walk or the 12-kilometer competitive run that begins in Piazza Duomo and takes participants through some of the most scenic parts of Florence.

While winding through the his-

toric center and stopping along the way to visit gardens, churches and palaces, volunteers provide runners with historical and artistic information about the city.

Walkers and runners also make an important contribution to society, with all proceeds going directly to Florence’s public health department to support breast cancer research, help patients directly and assist the volunteers in their work. Those collected from the last edition were given to Florence Cancer Association (L.I.L.T.) supporting the Florentine oncology center Ce.Ri.On., palliative care association FILE , the Vito Distante Project in Breast Cancer Clinical Research, and SenoNetwork Italia Onlus, a national net-

work for cancer patients.

Enrollment forms are available for download at www.corrilavita. it or at participating stores such as Universo Sport in Piazza del Duomo.

A new line of merchandise has been launched to support the fight against cancer, which includes a series of products specifically designed for sport enthusiasts, including a sport bag, an anatomically designed backpack with holes for headphones for those who like to run to music, a windproof jacket, umbrella, cap, shopping bag and watch.

Contributions to the campaign can also be made throughout the year on www.corrilavita.it/ donazioni.

The school of Italian language aly has shown good preliminary and culture Centro Machiavel- results, as it emerged from the li has become a partner of PaTiE opinions of the participants.

(Psychodrama as a Tool in Educa- “In the beginning I was skeptition), a project funded by the Eu- cal but then I had to change my ropean Union (LLP, Da Vinci TOI) mind. At the end, the course was that aims to improve the skills of very useful and I learned some educators through a method used techniques that I will use in my in psychotherapy. activity as an Italian teacher for PaTiE develops a training pro- foreigners. This learning experigram based on the learning needs ence changed in a way my teachof educators to motivate students ing method; if I have to describe and create a collaborative group. this experience in a word I would All the project partners have con- say ‘growth’,” said one of the parducted a pilot course in their own ticipants. country, an experimental phase A workshop presenting project reof the produced training materi- sults and a practical demonstraals particularly useful to highlight tion is being held on September 9, their strengths and weaknesses. from 3 to 5 p.m., at the Centro MaThe pilot course conducted in It- chiavelli in Piazza Santo Spirito 4.

Vogue Fashion’s Night Out Returns Shopaholics are on standby for the return of Vogue’s ‘global celebration of fashion’: Vogue Fashion’s Night Out returns to Florence on September 17 and Milan on September 22.

Initiated by Vogue in 2009 in New York, the event kicked off in Florence in 2012 and celebrates fashion with the aim of cultivating consumer confidence and boosting the economy.

In recent years, the initiative saw the enthusiastic participation of thousands of shoppers throughout the world.

Every edition has helped to support a different cause. Last year

the funds were donated to community centers and training for entering the world of work of young people in trouble, including Milano Ti Forma Fleming e San Giusto and Differenza Donna, an association that caters to women and children subject to domestic violence and difficult living conditions.

This edition promises to be bigger and better than ever.

True to its motto, luxury boutiques and department stores will be open until late, featuring special limited-edition products, celebrity appearances and unforgettable performances.

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Florence Creativity Returns for Fall 2015 Edition

Creativity never ends. Especially at the fall edition of the Florence Creativity Festival, which is taking place at the Fortezza da Basso next month from Thursday October 29 to Sunday November 1.

The fair, now at its fourth year, includes events, courses and presentations of new ideas, techniques and materials.

Disciples of the art of do-it-yourself can find an enormous array of fabric, buttons, paint, brushes, needles, thread, glue and paper to stimulate his or her creativity.

Courses offered include various silk painting techniques, home

décor, cutting, sewing, creative sewing, crochet, knitting, repairs, weaving for children and adults alike, creative workshops for children, creating bracelets, bijoux, and necklaces, processing wool, painting and many more, as infinite as the ways that human creativity can express itself.

One of the most popular initiatives at the last edition, Creative Zoo offers participants a panel to create a zoo following given patterns that can be downloaded from the fair website, www.florencecreativity.it.

Opening hours run from 9.30 a.m.

to 7 p.m. Tickets cost €10 for adults and €5 for children. Entrance is free for children under 10, as well as for disabled patrons and caregivers.

The event also offers a number of ticket deals: Thursdays and Fridays enable two people to enter for the price of a single €10 ticket, while four-day tickets cost €16.

Groups of more than 10 people pay €5 a head, and for each group bigger than 20 people a free ticket is given to the organizer.

Those interested in becoming exhibitors can find a form on the website.

Explore a Bohèmièn Marketplace

Country-style, shabby chic, restyling, party planner, home decor, vintage, workshops, dreaming artists and... aspiring dreaming artists.

These are the ingredients of The Bohèmièn Marketplace, the core event of the Florence Creativity festival that takes place next month at the Fortezza da Basso.

The Bohèmièn Marketplace is where exhibitors release their creativity, creating magical atmospheres through fabric, glue, wire, and various other materials.

This is where participants can find experts teaching short cours-

es giving lessons on the secrets of dexterity, how to use classic and innovative creative techniques, create frames, lace and precious fabrics, and transform old objects giving them a new and romantic light.

The Bohèmièn Marketplace October 29-November 1 Opening hours: 9:30 a.m.-7 p.m.

Tickets: €10 www.florencecreativity.it

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Celebrating a Florentine Tradition

International Antiques Fair Returns on September 26 Olivia Turchi The 29th edition of the Biennale Internazionale dell’Antiquariato di Firenze (Florence International Antiques Fair) takes place this year at Palazzo Corsini, every day from September 26 to October 4. This edition aims at a more contemporary approach, with American artist Jeff Koons inaugurating the event and 88 exhibitors presenting their rarities. A series of events organized by the Via Maggio Association is also taking place to coincide with the fair. Inspired in its name by Luchino Visconti’s movie Bellissima, the spectacular Bellissima: Via Maggio per BIAF accompanies the Biennale with lectures, exhibits, presentations, openings, conferences, concerts, performances, guided visits and extraordinary openings of sites usually not open to visitors.

Via Maggio will be closed to vehicles and decorated with plants and

flags from the opening date of the fair, while shops and galleries will remain open longer than usual. The event even includes an olfactory logo for Via Maggio.

The Biennale was inaugurated in 1959, inspired to the famous Florentine antiques collector Luigi Bellini who planned the first Florentine exhibit of this kind in 1953 with the goal of giving Florence an event to acknowledge and cherish its tradition in this field.

Florence was, in fact, leader in the trade of antiques between the tenth and nineteenth centuries, thanks to antiquarians such as Stefano Bardini, one of the most important art traders of all time, Elia Volpi, who restored Palazzo Davanzati, Salvatore Romano and Bellini himself, among many others.

Bellissima: Via Maggio per BIAF closes in the Sala Capitolare of the church of Santo Spirito with a theater show called Tableaux Vivants: 23 Scene dai Dipinti di Caravaggio, a mise-en-scène created using the an-

tique tableaux vivants technique of some of Caravaggio’s most famous works. The three shows are scheduled at 8:30 p.m., 9:30 p.m., 10:30 p.m..

Bellissima: Via Maggio per BIAF is a collaboration between the Friends of Santo Spirito, the Via Maggio Association, Workshops of Santo Spirito association and the Augustinian Brothers.

Olivia Turchi and the Via Maggio Association Born in France, but forever Florentine, Olivia Turchi grew up in the Oltrarno, where she learned to love history and artisan traditions. Turchi is the founder and president of the Via Maggio Association, a society born to protect the cultural identity and the unique connotations of the street and its historical quarter, which is composed of a voluntary committee of citizens, including business owners, artisans, antique dealers and residents.

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September Returns in Piazza della Passera

The 25th edition of September in Piazza della Passera returns from September 8 to 11 with a focus on poetry and music.

The first two nights are dedicated to live poetry performance, with a ‘Slam Poetry’ competition scheduled on the evening of September 8.

On September 9 poetess, performer and actress Rosaria Lo Russo, accompanied by contrabass player Alessandro Querci, presents a special evening dedicated to American poetess and writer Anne Sexton. After poetry it will be time for funk, soul and hip hop with the band Dre Love and The Band.

A tribute to Florentine jazz musician Luca Flores (1956–1995) will be theme of the evening on September 10. Over the course of his short career, Flores played with important musicians on the international jazz scene such as Chet Baker, Dave Holland, Lee Konitz and Dave Murray. On stage musicians who played with Flores will

take turns to perform, including Pietro Tonolo (tenor sax), Bruno Marini (baritone sax and bass clarinet), Mauro Avanzini (alto sax and flute), Fabio Morgera (trumpet), Alessandro Di Puccio (vibraphone), Antonio Zambrini (piano), Francesco Maccianti (piano), Guido Zorn (contrabass), Lello Pareti (contrabass), Piero Borri (drums) and Alessandro Fabbri (drums).

September in Piazza della Passera draws to a close on September 11 with a concert by the best and brightest young students from the Conservatorio Cherubini and Centro Attività Musicali music schools.

All events begin at 9 p.m. Entrance is free. For more information, email associazione.inpiazza@ gmail.com or call 329 005 88 85.

September in Piazza della Passera

September 8 to 11, from 9p.m.

Piazza della Passera 329 005 88 85 associazione.inpiazza@gmail.com

SEPTEMBER 2015

10 Florence News & Events

CULTURE

www.florencenewsandevents.com

Realizing Leonardo’s Projects

Exhibit showcases working models of da Vinci’s designs, as museum hits 10th anniversary

Lucy David

A family of Florentine craftsmen has discovered previously unknown theorems hidden in Leonardo’s mechanical designs, shedding light on the full scope of his genius.

Carlo Niccolai and his son Gabriele have spent decades constructing working models of Leonardo’s inventions through close study of his famous codices. In collaboration with a team of specialists, the Niccolai family re-creates the designs using materials such as wood, rope, fabric and metal that date back to the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries.

The rigor of practical and mechanical tests carried out on each model has given rise to a number of insights into Leonardo’s approach and surprisingly modern grasp of technology, such as his famous ‘robot’, which was originally believed to have been designed as an armored robotic knight. However, during laboratory tests the robot was discovered to be limited in its upper body movement and instead possess flexible wrists adapted to drumming, and is now believed to have been designed for use in parades and ceremonies.

In his studies for a European Commission-sponsored exhibition of the machines in Brussels earlier this year, Gabriele Niccolai noted how Leonardo appears to have deliberately scattered the mechanical components required to create his inventions over several different pages of his codices, allowing artisans to create individ-

ual elements but preventing their understanding of the machine as a whole. This may be due in part to the fact that Leonardo’s codices have been split up and reassembled over the years – sculptor Pompeo Leoni took the liberty of cutting and dividing several of the codices into scientific and artistic categories in the seventeenth century – however such a practice would have also safeguarded his inventions during times of war.

Leonardo’s catapult design in the Atlantic Codex is rendered useless without details of its ballistic adjustments, which are found in a different part of the codex as a series of self-locking mechanisms.

A deeper understanding of Leonardo’s codices has revealed that many of his technological innovations rested upon those of his engineering predecessors, such as Brunelleschi, Vitruvius, Heron of Alexandria and Archimedes of

Syracuse, which Leonardo adapted to his own context. His modification of a mechanism based on a description found in Herodotus and believed to have been used for building the pyramids surpassed all expectations when Niccolai created its working model in 2011: a 300kg concrete block was so reduced in weight that a six-year-old child was able to lift it.

The Niccolai family has been reconstructing working models of Leonardo’s designs since 1995, when Carlo Niccolai dedicated himself to the work full-time in a desire to realise Leonardo’s legacy.

His passion founded the Niccolai Collection, the largest private collection of Leonardo models in the world, comprising more than 300 working models created by himself and his sons, together with a team of artisans, engineers, historians and architects.

The models have been displayed

at more than 100 international exhibitions throughout Europe and as far afield as Australia, New Zealand, China, the US, Brazil, Saudi Arabia and Finland. More than 50 working models are on permanent display at The Machines of Leonardo da Vinci exhibit at Galleria Michelangiolo in Via Cavour.

Here visitors have the chance to not only observe but also interact with various prototypes, such as the aerial screw used in today’s helicopters, alongside a scuba-diving apparatus, glider, bicycle, tank and missiles; and view reconstructions of Leonardo’s studies of anatomy. The exhibit also displays copies of six codices, in which the visitor can view the sketches that reveal the workings of the great man’s mind.

The Niccolai family has been widely praised for its ongoing devotion to realising the vast inheritance that Leonardo left to science.

Professor Carlo Pedretti, director of the Armand Hammer Center for Leonardo Studies at the University of California, says, “Carlo Niccolai is an admirable figure, a talented craftsman who has developed his own way in studying the technological level reached by Leonardo da Vinci. Moreover, he is a person gifted with great simplicity and humility. His work is important to scholars because it helps our theories and contributes to study indepth Leonardo’s machines and all the technological discoveries made at that time.” Indeed, as Bill Gates’ $30 million purchase of the Leicester Codex indicates, we have much to be grateful to Leonardo for: next time your car gets a flat tire, you can thank Leonardo for inventing the jack.

Leonardo’s designs on display include the aerial screw (used in today’s helicopters), human robot, hydraulic drill, scubadiving apparatus, hang glider, tank, missiles, bicycle, floodlight, lifebuoy and jack.

The Machines of Leonardo da Vinci Michelangiolo Gallery Leonardo da Vinci Museum Via Cavour, 21 Open daily: 9:30 a.m – 7:30 p.m.

Cost: €7 (full price); €5 (reduced); €3 (groups of 15 or more).

Entrance, snack and drink promotion: €8 (between 11 a.m. & 4 p.m.).

055 295 264 www.macchinedileonardo.com

SEPTEMBER 2015

12 Florence News & Events

LITERATURE

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Dante’s Commedia Misconceived

Lee Foust

Understanding Dan Brown’s interpretation of Dante

The theme of the Book of Revelations, like the Old Testament Book of Daniel upon which it was based, is thlipsis—a Greek word meaning tribulations. Consequently, our whole Judeo-Christian concept of God’s judgment in the afterlife stems from how we morally react to life’s tribulations. Since Revelations recounts mostly the retributions meted out to the enemies of Christianity and other evildoers at the end of time, a lacuna of early Christian theology was the knowledge of what happens to the souls of the faithful in the interim between death and the last judgment. Into this gap stepped the Vision of St. Paul, an apocryphal biblical text that spawned a considerable but little-read medieval genre of visions recounting journeys into a moralized Christian land of the dead—there are about 100 such texts written in Europe between the 2nd and 14th centuries and it is from them that we take most of our common modern images of hell and heaven, as well as the entire concept of Purgatory.

Dante Alighieri’s tripartite epic poem, The Commedia (“Divine” was added to the title later, by Giovanni Boccaccio), is one such encyclopedic, late-medieval account of how the unrepentant are punished in Hell, how the repentant are cleansed in Purgatory, and how the blessed celebrate their salvation in Heaven. It is the last of the medieval visionary tradition—a text too exhaustive, po-

MAIN LIBRARIES BIBLIOTECA GABINETTO G.P. V IEUSSEUX Piazza Strozzi 055 28 34 2 www.vieusseux.fi.it BIBLIOTECA MARUCELLIANA Via Cavour, 43 055 21 06 02 // 055 21 62 43 Monday to Friday: 9 a.m.-7 p.m.

Saturday: 9 a.m.-1 p.m. www.maru.firenze.sbn.it BIBLIOTECA MEDICEA-L AURENZIANA Piazza S. Lorenzo, 9 055 21 07 60 www.bml.firenze.sbn.it

etic, and influential to top.

As alluring as a descent into the infernal regions at first sounds, however, the poem has nothing at all to do with any medieval plagues, nor with the threat to anyone’s life, and its villain is a chained-up, non-speaking, and totally ineffectual Satan. Neither the poem’s focus on morality, nor its lack of an active villain, is compatible with the modern thriller genre. We saw it in the film Se7en’s weak Dantesque references, we saw it in the over-romanticized video game Dante’s Inferno, and we see it yet again in Dan Brown’s mostly pointless attempt to exploit Dante’s poem in his recent thriller, Inferno.

Just as modern-day romance plays no part whatsoever in the poet’s spiritual salvation as granted him by the figure of an allegorical, unknown woman who is called “Beatrice” because the name signifies

that she is a miracle from heaven, “a blessing,” (as I discussed in last month’s article) so the episodic and poetic invocation of divine justice after death presented in the Commedia has no secular stakes—no ticking bombs or terrorist plots. It just doesn’t fit the thriller mold, and that’s why Dan Brown’s Inferno, for me, fails by choosing Dante’s epic as a platform—it grafts two incompatible species of tree together too haphazardly. The basic plot—a mad genius biologist cooking up a virus to save the world from human overpopulation—is interesting enough, but all of the half-baked information regarding the Commedia, Dante’s life, and his love for Beatrice, is needless, awkward, and often just plain wrong. Without it, the novel might also have clocked in at a more readable 250 pages instead of its tedious 462.

For a really interesting take on

Dante’s epic poem—and some awesome Godfather, Goodfellas, and Sopranos-style gangster shenanigans—try Nick Tosches’s In the Hand of Dante (No Exit Press, 2002). Tosches’s novel juxtaposes the medieval poet’s struggle to complete his poetic vision of Paradise with the bloodbath produced by modern-day gangsters fighting over the newly discovered original manuscript of the Commedia in the poet’s own hand. Now that would be a find worth fighting over!

Lee Foust is a fiction writer and performer from Oakland, California who teaches literature and creative writing at various US universities in Florence. He is the author of Sojourner, a collection of stories and poems about the mystery of place, and the forthcoming Poison and Antidote, nine Bohemian tales of San Francisco during the Reagan era.

Read more at www.leefoust.com.

BIBLIOTECA NA ZIONALE Piazza Cavalleggeri, 1/a 055 24 91 91 // 055 24 91 91 Monday to Friday: 9 a.m.-7 p.m.

Saturday: 9 a.m.-1 p.m. www.bncf.firenze.sbn.it IRIS Piazza Strozzi, Palazzo Strozzi www.iris.firenze.it/index_e.php BIBLIOTECA COMUNALE CENTR ALE Via S. Egidio, 21 055 26 16 512 www.comune.firenze.it/comune/ biblioteche/comunale.htm BIBLIOTECA DEI R AGA ZZI Via Tripoli, 34 055 24 78 551 BIBLIOTECA PAL AGIO DI PARTE GUELFA Piazza Parte Guelfa, 1 055 21 47 40 www.comune.firenze.it/comune/ biblioteche/ppguelfa.htm THE UFFIZI LIBR ARY 055 23 88 647 Tuesday: 9 a.m.-5 p.m.

Wednesday: 9 a.m.-1:30 p.m.

Thursday-Friday: 9 a.m.-1 p.m. biblioteca@polomuseale.firenze.it

SEPTEMBER 2015

Florence News & Events 13

STUDENTS

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Adjusting and Thriving While Studying Abroad With its labyrinth of narrow streets and unfamiliar cultural clues, Florence can seem like a daunting place for students upon arrival. However, foreign students soon learn to speak the language, navigate the grocery store and discover those hidden Tuscan treasures awaiting them. It is only natural to come across hurdles as you attempt to live like a local, but every mistake can be learnt from.

Former study-abroad students have shared the following tips to help maximise your experience abroad.

Get Lost: Take a stroll off the tourist-beaten path. Wandering through side streets by foot is one of the best ways to get to know the city. You’re more likely to find Practice. Meet the locals. authentic Italian craft and food Read the Language: Pick up a shops this way, rather than stick- newspaper, magazine, even a broing to the center. Pack a camera, chure written in Italian, and see some cash, and leave your wor- how much you can understand. ries behind. Don’t worry. All roads Underline the words and phrases (eventually) lead back to the Duo- you haven’t learned yet, and look mo. them up yourself.

At the Grocery Store: Less is more. Know the Language: Just to make Italians rarely buy in bulk, which learning a foreign language that means food is fresher with a short- little bit more challenging, Italian er shelf-life. Buy a few days’ worth has several words that look and of supplies at a time, rather than sound like the English equivaa week or two. You’ll save money lent, but have completely different by not wasting those rotten ap- meanings. ples and stale loaves of bread you For example, a libreria is an Italchuck at the end of a week. Plus ian bookshop, not a library, so be your load to haul home will be sure to pay for your books or you lighter. could find yourself in a bit of a Speak the Language: It’s easy to sticky situation. The importance get by not speaking Italian at all in of accents should also be noted, Florence, but do try to challenge because by forgetting to stress the yourself. In stores, clerks tend to ‘o’ in ‘casinò’ you are referring to a respond in English if they realize brothel, not a gambling house! that is indeed your native lan- Eat Like A Local: Americans are guage. But be persistent. Gesture. accustomed to fast food. We like

our coffee on the go. While you’re in Florence, eat like the locals do: take the time to eat. Sit (or stand) at a bar to drink your cappuccino. Enjoy it. You might find the change of pace relaxing. When you’re out to eat for dinner, appreciate the multi-course meal. No more of these take-home doggy bags! Portions are smaller here and you’ll notice that food is made for quality, not quantity. Embrace the fact that you’re eating the most delicious Italian food, and remember, take the time to enjoy.

When looking for a sandwich shop, avoid the prepared sandwiches displayed in cases. For the freshest ingredients find a place that will make your sandwich when you order.

Tip for gelato lovers: stay away from the foot-high rainbow mounds of ice cream. It’s that bright for a reason. It isn’t as natural and definitely not as fresh.

Drink Like A Local: Wine is part of Italian culture and is to be enjoyed and appreciated, not abused. Italians will laugh at anyone they come across drinking on the streets, so pace yourselves, sit at a table and drink for pleasure as opposed to getting legless!

Take Advantage of The Treasures of Tuscany: To live like a local, you have to know your location. While it’s exciting and rewarding to travel all over Europe during this time, check out what Tuscany has to offer, too. A lot of activities and trips can be done in a day by train or bus.

Stay Positive: Not everything goes according to plan, but it’s you who determines the outcome of the situation. A bad attitude isn’t going to get you far, with locals or other students you meet. By keeping an open mind you’re more likely to absorb the culture and will be able to take away more from this

experience.

Understand that you will be challenged linguistically, intellectually, and morally, and realize that it’s all part of the adventure.

Ride A Vespa: Take a tour with Fun in Tuscany and discover scenic routes through hilly Tuscany on a bike or Vespa. There is a large stretch of beautiful countryside to enjoy here and no better way to see it than on two wheels.

Take A Tour: Bus2alps provide day trips, weekend trips and spring/fall breaks at discounted student rates. Whether you fancy a short visit to Venice or a getaway to Greece, Europe’s no.1 student tour operator can help you make the most of your time on the continent.

Medical Service: If you find yourself in need of medical assistance while in Florence, you can find English-speaking doctors by calling 055 475 411.

SEPTEMBER 2015

14 Florence News & Events

MUSIC

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Porto di Mare – Eskimo

David Gilmour Performs on September 13 Former Pink Floyd guitarist and band leader David Gilmour is performing in Florence for the first time in nine years. The concert takes place at Ippodromo del Visarno at 9 p.m. on September 15.

The concert is just one of two Italian dates for 2015, with the other taking place on September 14 at the historic Verona Arena.

Gilmour’s European tour coincides with the release of his new solo album, the fourth solo album of his career, Rattle That Lock, which hits stores on September 18.

Tickets are already available on websites livenation.it and ticketone.it.

Bocelli’s Surprise Wedding Gift A couple was pleasantly surprised at their wedding last month when tenor Andrea Bocelli unexpectedly began to sing Franz Schubert’s ‘Ave Maria’, the Italian daily newspaper Il Secolo XIX reported.

The couple was married at St Peter’s Church in the seaside town of Portovenere, which is a part of the UNESCO-designated Cinque Terre riviera.

According to Il Secolo XIX, Bocelli, who was on holiday with his family nearby, asked his wife to approach the church warden for permission before sitting at the organ and starting to sing Schubert’s masterpiece. Bocelli reportedly wanted to offer the newlyweds a gift, even though he had never met them.

Bridging cultures through live music at the club where all musicians meet Porto di Mare – Eskimo Contact Fancesco Cofone Via Pisana, 128 055 71 20 34 portodimareeskimo@gmail.com

Weekly Music Calendar Live music at Porto di Mare – Eskimo ranges from Italian artists to soul and funk and includes:

Ivana Scatola As with any port, Porto di Mare – Eskimo is synonymous with exchange, correspondence, and coming and going. Anyone is welcome through the doors of this club, which also hosts a pizzeria and cafè and has recently introduced Friday night courses on the traditional Italian tarantella dance, as well as a series of cooking classes.

Its focus on live music and cultural exchange is one that the man who started the club, Francesco Cofone, holds close to his heart: “We never play anything recorded here” he says with a smile.

The method of bridging cultures at Porto di Mare is just getting out an instrument and beginning to play. “I’d be keen to talk to anyone who is interested in playing and sharing their music with us,” Francesco says.

The club has also created its own big band, the Eskimo Jazz Or-

chestra. An all-star Tuscan jazz vised style. band born under the initiative of “Morris’s idea was to dissolve any Francesco, it includes some of the sort of ‘formation’ in the orchesbiggest and respected names on tra, and for this reason, conductthe jazz scene amongst its mem- ing isn’t undertaken in one style bers. These include trumpeter but acts more like a tool for endand band conductor Fabio Morg- less different styles,” Fabio Morgera, who played under legendary era explains.

American jazz cornetist, compos- “I conduct a group of musicians er and conductor Butch Morris but they have complete freedom for 30 years in New York; Dario of the choice of notes; it’s an exCecchini, sax and leader of Italian change between us. There’s no marching band Funk Off; trum- rigid music score to follow … In peter Luca Marianini; trombone this way, it’s possible to create player Stefano Scalzi and guitarist music together that has an organRiccardo Onori, who both played ic quality.” alongside renowned Italian sing- The band performs live at the er-songwriter and rapper Jova- venue every month, and has alnotti; percussionists Walter Paoli, ready had many requests from ex-member of 1970s Italian jazz, specialised magazines to festival progressive rock and electronic directors. Porto di Mare – Eskimo group Area, and Piero Borri; clar- therefore not only offers locals inet player Nico Gori; and guitar- and outsiders the opportunity to ists Paolo Conte, Ivano Fossati immerse themselves in and conand Riccardo Galardini – to name tribute to the local music scene, just (a little more than) a few. but also to witness the emergence The band’s genre has evolved from of Florence as host to a new style classical music to a looser, impro- of jazz.

WEDNESDAY: Italian singer Giovanni Bogani; THURSDAYS: Funk, soul and blues; FRIDAYS: Singer-songwriter Francesco Cofone; and tarantella courses SATURDAYS: Salsa band or funk, soul and blues.

More info at Facebook: /Porto di Mare – Eskimo Artists and musicians seeking to share their talents need look no further: Il Genio Italiano osteria, art cafe, wine bar and pizzeria on Viale Alessandro promotes both local artworks and live music, with exhibitions of young new talent and performances onsite.

The restaurant serves dishes ranging from typical Tuscan fare to southern Italian specialties, and can be found in the nontouristy neighbourhood hub of Novoli.

Il Genio Italiano Viale Alessandro Guidoni, 168 328 23 82 293 ilgenioitaliano@hotmail.it www.ilgenioitaliano.net

Il Cencio Unto

SOFT DRINK R O CCO

TUSCAN COLD CUTS AND FRESH SANDWICHES

DRINKS AND MORE YOUR ATM IN VIA DE’ NERI

Located in Via de’ Cerchi, Il Cencio Unto is the place where you can taste various typical Tuscan cold cuts and tasting plates. Il Cencio Unto is very selective in its choice of products and offers fresh ingredients, made-to-order dishes with delicious toppings, and a wide selection of wines.

Specialty:

COCCOLI

Whether you want an iced coffee or a bottle of wine, a beer and crisps or a refreshing soda, Soft Drink Rocco has got you covered. It has everything that you could need at a moment’s notice, selling a wide variety of alcohol, soft drinks and foodstuffs. Snugly settled on Via de’ Neri, if you find yourself in the Santa Croce area and in need of a cold drink on a hot day, or anything for that little gathering of friends you’re having, give them a visit.

Open daily: 10-12 a.m.

Via de’ Cerchi, 25/r 055 21 99 90 info@ilcenciounto.it www.ilcenciounto.it

Via de’ Neri, 16/r Santa Croce 389 02 50 515 roccosal@hotmail.it

SEPTEMBER 2015

16 Florence News & Events

CITY GUIDE

TOURIST INFORMATION Firenze Turismo 055 29 08 32 // 055 29 08 33 Via Cavour, 1/r Mon–Sat: 8:30 a.m.–6:30 p.m.

(Closed on Sundays and public holidays; see Comune info points below for Sunday hours.) info1@firenzeturismo.it www.firenzeturismo.it Florence Airport ...........................055 31 58 74 Via del Termine, 1 Daily: 8:30 a.m.–8:30 p.m. infoaeroporto@firenzeturismo.it Comune ....................................... 055 21 22 45 Piazza Stazione, 4 Mon–Sat: 8:30 a.m.–7 p.m.

Sundays & public holidays: 8:30 a.m.–2 p.m. turismo3@comune.fi.it www.comune.fi.it Bigallo loggia .............................. 055 28 84 96 Piazza San Giovanni Mon–Sat: 9 a.m.–7 p.m.

Sundays & public holidays: 9 a.m.–2 p.m. bigallo@comune.fi.it

www.florencenewsandevents.com

DIRECT BUS TO PISA AIRPORT Coaches depart from: Pisa Airport arrivals area, in front of the arrivals gate and Florence City Center S.M. Novella Train Station, outside the station. Journey: 70 minutes.

From Florence to Pisa: Monday-Friday 3:30, 4:30, 7:15, 8:05, 8:50, 10:10, 11:10, 11:30, 12:05, 13:05, 13:55, 14:40, 15:30, 16:20, 18:05, 18:50 From Florence to Pisa: Saturday-Sunday 4:30, 6:30, 7:15, 8:05, 8:50,10:10, 11:10, 12:05, 13:05, 13:55, 14:40, 15:30, 16:20, 18:05, 18:50

COOKING COURSES IN SANTO SPIRITO In Tavola aims to spread Italian food- and wine-rich regional culinary traditions, such as those of Tuscany with its variety of dishes and recipes. Cooking classes as well as individual lessons for both professionals and beginners are offered, with special deals for students. Courses include: Market tour & cooking class, four-course dinner, easy dinner, easy lunch, home-made pasta and pizza & gelato.

Via dei Velluti, 18 • 055 21 76 72 www.intavola.org • info@intavola.org

www.airportbusexpress.it

EMERGENCY SERVICES

THE RESTAURANT OF THE FLORENTINES

Police – emergency ..................................... 113 Police – carabinieri ...................................... 112 Police – municipal ...................... 055 32 83 333 Ambulance ................................................... 118 Fire department ........................................... 115 Tourist medical service .............. 055 21 22 21 Poison Center ............................. 055 79 47 819 Pharmacies (open) ...................... 800 42 07 07 Vehicle breakdown (ACI) ............................. 116 Obstruction& towed vehicle ...... 055 42 24 142 Civil protection services .............. 800 01 5 161 Child abuse hotline ...................................... 114 Emergency vet services ........... 055 72 23 683 Environmental emergency response ....... 1515 Lost & Found (Florence office) ... 055 33 48 02

Located in Via Ghibellina near Santa Croce, Da Que’ Ganzi offers a fresh seafood and meat menu for both lunch and dinner. Tuscan specialties include ribollita and authentic Florentine steak, and all of the cakes and sweets are homemade. A special weekday lunch menu for less than €10 makes the restaurant affordable for anyone. Special dishes: BAKED SEA BASS & TUSCAN STEAK Mon. to Sun.: 12–2:30 p.m. & 7–11:30 p.m.

Closed on Tuesdays.

Via Ghibellina, 70/r •055 22 60 010 www.daqueiganzi.it • info@daqueiganzi.it

TRANSPORT BUS & COACH ATAF (www.ataf.net) ................... 800 42 45 00 BluBlus (www.blubus.it) ............. 800 27 78 25 SITA Nord (www.fsbusitalia.it) ... 800 37 37 60 CAP (www.capautolinee.it) ........ 055 21 46 37 Vaibus (www.vaibus.com) ........ 058 35 87 897 TRAIN Trenitalia (www.trenitalia.com) .......... 89 20 21 Italo (www.italotreno.it/en) ............... 06 07 08

APPROXIMATE FARES Florence-Pisa Airport ................... €140 Florence-Bologna Airport ............ €180 Florence-Montecatini ..................... €90 Florence-Arezzo ........................... €140 Florence-Siena ............................. €120 Florence-Livorno .......................... €160 Florence-San Gimignano ............. €100 Florence-Outlet Barberino ............. €65 Barberino A/R+ 1 hr ..................... €120 Florence-Outlet Leccio .................. €65 Leccio A/R+1 hr ............................ €120 Florence-Outlet Prada .................. €110 Prada A/R+1 hr .............................. €160 FLORENCE AIRPORT FROM/TO DOWNTOWN

Weekdays – €20 + Luggage Holiday – €22 + Luggage Night – €23 + Luggage

Taxi Bus 1 Pax €20** €6* 2 Pax €20 ** €12* 3 Pax €20 ** €18* 4 Pax €20 ** €24* 5 Pax €20 ** €30* ** more €1 each bag * need a taxi

HAIRDRESSING SALON IN VIA DE’ BENCI • • • • • • • • • • • •

Shampoo & dry (short) ......... €15/€16 Shampoo & dry (long) ......... €18/€20 Cut ................................................ €15 Perm ............................................. €30 Color [tips] .................................... €24 Color [full] .................................... €32 Toning .......................................... €17 Highlights with headset ............. €29 Highlights with spatula .............. €32 Woven highlights ....................... €41 Two-toned highlights ................. €62 Shampoo & cut (men) .................. €20 Tue. to Thurs.: 9 a.m.–6 p.m.

Fri. to Sat.: 9 a.m.–7 p.m.

Via dei Benci, 37r 055 234 48 85

Il Supermercato... da Gustare e deGustare

Sapori & Dintorni is the new way to do the shopping: in the heart of Florence there is a place where Food, Culture and Territory meet.

Get in and discover the Supermarket to test and taste!

Inside you will find many typical products of the Italian food tradition.

Buy your favorite product and taste it within the tasting area.

FIND YOUR LOCAL SUPERMARKET IN THE CITY CENTER

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THE SUPERMARKETS ARE OPEN: • Monday - Saturday: from 08.30 am to 9.00 pm • Sunday: from 09.30 am to 9.00 pm

SEPTEMBER 2015

18 Florence News & Events

FOOD & WINE

www.florencenewsandevents.com

Aperitivo Explained

Beyond the world of wine lies a wide assortment of cocktails to discover in Italy, including the Negroni, the Spritz, and the Americano. These iconic Italian cocktails feature distinctive ingredients like Aperol, Campari and Vermouth and contain flavors that stimulate the appetite—thus, perfect for the Italian aperitivo.

The social activity known as aperitivo takes place in a lively atmosphere, at a bar or party, accompanied by light-tasting cocktails and pre-dinner snacks.

Aperitivo happens almost every night of the week and in some locales the finger foods are abundant enough to make a full meal, for the price of an €8 or €9 cocktail. Negroni, Spritz, and Americano are the quintessential Italian aperitivi. Intended to whet the palate, these three cocktails usually contain Campari, but are also offered with some minor variations.

The Americano is made with half Campari, half sweet Vermouth, and soda water, and is garnished with lemon.

It was originally served in Gaspare Campari’s café in Milan and called the Milano-Torino cocktail

in reference to the Campari from Milan and Vermouth from Turin. However, as the drink grew in popularity among American tourists, it became known as the Americano.

In 1919, when Count Camillo Negroni was at Florence’s Caffè Casoni (now Caffè Giacosa), he ordered his Americano a little bit stronger. The bartender decided to add gin instead of soda water, and an orange instead of a lemon, to distinguish this new and different drink. The cocktail was so well received that the Negroni family founded a Negroni distillery in Treviso, Italy.

Currently there are three different variations of the Negroni cocktail.

The Spritz cocktail, another popular choice for aperitivo, is made with one ounce of Aperol, two ounces Prosecco, and seltzer. For those who prefer a more bitter flavor, Campari can be used instead of the sweeter, lighter Aperol.

Venturing away from standard American cocktails makes for a delicious change of pace, while experiencing the Italian aperitivo tradition takes you a step closer to adopting the Italian lifestyle.

Cin cin!

At the Students’ Table

Meet Pino of Salumeria Verdi and Pozzodivino To the seasoned student in Florence, Pino is a man who needs no introduction. He is the proud owner of Salumeria Verdi on Via Giuseppe Verdi, a deli and cafe that happily opens its doors to tourists, students and locals. He has attained something of a cult status, particularly among students visiting from America.

Some of Pino’s panini are even named after students who left a particular impression, such as ‘Mister Talk,’ and ‘Emily’. Another option on the menu is ‘The Best,’ so-named by Pino in response to the many tourists and students always asking, ‘’Which one’s the best?’’

Pino will proudly tell you that it is not uncommon for students returning to Florence to show up at his business with spouses and children. In fact, Pino fondly recalls serving a sandwich to a former customer 11 years after he had left Florence. Pino is somewhat humbled by his recognition, and attributes his popularity to treating anybody in his cafe “as if they were family”, and to his three pillars of service – “qualitá, prezzo, accoglienza” – quality, price and hospitality.

Born of a desire by Pino and his wife Antonella to go one step ahead of similar vendors by modernising the standard panino and studying flavors that go well together, Salumeria Verdi has grown in both size and success since its inauguration in the late 1980s. It employs ingredients from all over Italy, a factor that is extremely important for its owners, who aim to provide tourists with more than

just a taste of Florence, with such produce as pesto from Liguria and cheese from the South. This is an element consciously influenced

by Pino’s background. Born in Naples, an Italian region known for quality ingredients, Pino moved to Turin with his family at the age of six.

Like many Italian migrants who travelled north in the 1960s and 1970s, the family’s move was propelled by a search of work and opportunities. Pino settled permanently in Florence after meeting Antonella here, and thus this second permanent move was made for love.

Today Salumeria Verdi resembles a veritable ‘Tardis’ (for non-fans of Doctor Who, that’s a space that seems small from the exterior yet is gigantic inside): stretching to the length of three shops, the original delicatessen has expanded into a panini shop with abundant choices to create your own fillings

(much like most American equivalents), and boasts space with some 20 tables and chairs.

The Salumeria is quite frankly a feast for the eyes (as well as the hungry stomach); the colors and smells emanating from the place are an irresistible mélange that regularly see queues out the door.

Whether drawn by hunger pangs, the itch to get creative with panini fillings or simply the desire to drop into a Florentine institution and share a few words of wisdom with the great man himself, Salumeria Verdi is well worth a visit. Who knows? Maybe Pino will name a sandwich after you.

Salumerica Verdi

Via Giuseppe Verdi, 36/r 055 244517 www.salumeriaverdi.it

Enoteca Pozzo Divino Via Ghibellina, 144/r 055 2466907 www.pozzodivino.eu

SEPTEMBER 2015

Florence News & Events 19

FOOD & WINE

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Neapolitan Vegetarian Pizza New Salamanca Opens on September 15 Ingredients (serves 2) Dough: • ¼ ounce active dry yeast • ¼ cup lukewarm water (110°F) • 3-3 ½ cups of ‘00’-grade flour • 2 tbsp salt • 2 tbsp olive oil Sauce: • Canned peeled stewed roma tomatoes • Handful of basil • Pinch of salt Toppings: • 1 tbsp olive oil • 2 oz eggplants • 2 oz bell peppers • 2 oz zucchini • 2 oz mushrooms • 2 oz black olives • 4 oz tomatoes • 4 oz buffalo mozzarella cheese

Preparation: Mix the flour, water, salt, yeast and olive oil to make your perfect dough. Once that is complete, set aside and leave to rise in refrigerator for two days. To make the sauce, blend the tomatoes, basil and salt with a hand mixer until smooth. Slice the vegetables thinly to create your toppings. Now you are ready to build your pizza. Retrieve the dough that has doubled in size and roll to a 8”-10” diameter. Place on floured pizza stone or pie tin. With a large serving spoon, spread sauce on dough. Remember to leave an inch without sauce.

This will be your crust. Top with your sliced vegies and fresh mozzarella. Cook in oven at maximum heat for 3-4 mins or until crust is golden brown. Enjoy!!

Historic Florentine Spanish Restaurant Gets Restyled

Salsa, Spanish and Mexican food, disco bar, soccer and other sports, and, most importantly, a true Latin atmosphere. These are the ingredients for the new Salamanca that opens on September 15 with a totally renovated venue: a historic Florentine restaurant that transforms every night after dinner into a Latin disco pub.

Salamanca has become a favorite hub of Italian and international students, who flock here throughout the year for a touch of Latin authenticity.

Cesare Martignon and the Mambo Kids play Latin rhythms for everyone to dance to. Always one of cardinal points of Latin music in Tuscany, the Mambo Kids have built a reputation for themselves and are often the city’s first choice for performing covers of some of Italy’s most famous pop

songs, as well as the best of ’80s and ’90s salsa. The new formation includes seven musicians, who are often accompanied by special guests.

As for the restaurant, which opened in 1996, visitors can choose from a selection of Spanish and Mexican dishes while enjoying an exotic and exciting atmosphere. The menu includes tapas and other appetizers typical

of Spanish cuisine, as well as Mexican cocktails and Spanish sangria. Some of the must-try dishes are super consigliati, gambas al ajillo, fresh scallops and paella negra.

Salamanca

Via Ghibellina, 80/r 055 2345452 www.salamanca.it

Dining with Dante

Taverna La Divina Commedia offers medieval-style dishes

This recipe is provided by:

Pizzeria O’ Vesuvio

Via dei Cimatori, 21/r 055 285 487 info@ovesuviofirenze.com www.ovesuviofirenze.com

Named after Dante Alighieri’s most famous work, The Divine Comedy, this homely, rustic taverna fittingly lies on Via dei Cimatori, only a few meters away from Dante’s House.

The venue prides itself on its innovative and creative idea of preparing solely traditional dishes based on medieval recipes. Some are adapted and revisited for the modern age but in a way that one maintains the omnipresent feeling of Florentine history and tradition – so much so that Dante himself could walk in and dine

next to you. As a matter of fact, this is a regular occurrence at Taverna La Divina Commedia, as the venue regularly hosts recitals from Dante’s great work by professional costumed performers.

Traditional medieval-style dishes include home-made ribbon pasta with wild boar and mushroom sauce, roast shin of pork with new potatoes and seasonal vegetables, risotto inspired by medieval Tuscan flavors, and tasting plates of assorted cheeses accompanied with fresh fruit and jams, including the taverna’s specialty hot red

pepper jam.

Also serving as a wine bar and pizzeria, the restaurant offers an eclectic selection of wines from its cellar, an outdoor summer terrace, and is fittingly decorated in a medieval style with armour and banners – and, of course, a mandatory bust of Dante himself.

Taverna La Divina Commedia

Via dei Cimatori, 7/r 055 21 53 69 Open daily: 11.30 a.m.–12.30 a.m.

SEPTEMBER 2015

20 Florence News & Events

CITY BEAT

www.florencenewsandevents.com

On Tour in Florence

As a leading tour operator in Florence with multilingual staff, Ciao Florence offers a range of regular and private tours to Venice, Rome, Naples and Tuscany.

Ciao Florence has a variety of daily and weekend excursions where one can discover the Cinque Terre and hike between the enchanting villages that cling to the cliffs, or dine in the Chianti with a sunset view of Tuscan hills and vineyards.

The tour company also offers its customers the chance to skip the queue at museums and galleries such as the Uffizi and Accademia.

Other activities include pizzaand gelato-making classes and Florence Walking Tours (complete with an aperitivo). Tuscan cooking classes and Chianti wine-tasting sessions are also available.

For more information visit: www.ciaoflorence.it

A Florentine Branch for Engel & Völkers

With more than 35 years of experience in the brokerage of highend real estate, Engel & Völkers belongs to the leading service providers in the industry today.

The international network and the local market knowledge of the company experts create the foundation of its success. This gives the customer invaluable benefits, particularly in the commercial real estate sector. Whether you

wish to sell or to let or are looking for a suitable property yourself, or you are seeking sustainable competitive advantages or the longterm creation of value, Engel & Völkers is the best choice.

Engel & Völkers

Firenze Michelangelo Lungarno Guicciardini, 25-27r 055 281 076

Take Home Artisan Tradition With Furò e Punteruolo

Stepping into Paolo Fattori’s elegant leather workshop is a surprising experience: light and airy with clean lines and a minimalist feel, it’s where the modern world meets ancient Florentine tradition. Only the lingering scent of leather and the sight of Paolo busily working at an island bench indicates that this is, in fact, a bottega (workshop) producing finely crafted leather bags, backpacs, belts and various articles from the hands of the man himself.

Rolls of jewel-colored leather line the walls, numbered and certified by Tuscan company Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata al Vegetale, which practises an artisan method of vegetable-dyed leather that has its origins in the Renaissance. Although Paolo has only been working in leather fulltime for six years, he’s already

made a name for himself both in Florence and as far afield as Japan.

However, manual dexterity runs in Paolo’s veins; his father and grandfather worked in wood and iron, and he credits them with his ability.

“In Tuscany, manual skill is widespread and forms part of the ge-

Murano glass and Carnevale mask enthusiasts need not travel to Venice for quality souvenir items. Alvise Giustinian is a gift and art store specializing in Murano-made items, which guarantees the sale of purely Murano products without importation. Products include masks, jewelry, and glass objects for the home.

Jewelry has proven to be the shop’s most popular item, due to the ease of transport and availability of products starting at merely €5, according to its owner Paola. Alvise Giustinian’s spacious interior allows for an abundant selection of gifts and a comfortable shopping experience.

Paola’s customers tell her that pric-

es in this beautiful, museum-like shop are lower than those in Venice.

If you’re in Florence but looking for classic Venetian crafts such as papier-mâché masks and handmade glass, then Alvise Giustinian is a store worth a visit.

netic heritage of the region,” he says. Indeed, Paolo’s workshop is named after the two principal instruments of the trade: the furò and punteruolo.

Drop by and watch the craftsman at work on Via del Giglio, 29/r, tucked in between San Lorenzo and SMN train station.

Discover Venice in Santa Croce

Since its foundation in 1982, Medical Service Firenze has developed a solid reputation for providing rapid, reliable assistance to tourists and residents in need of medical attention. We accept all major travel/medical insurance policies.

SERVICES INCLUDE: • 24-hour prompt house calls by general practitioners all year round.

• Our physicians are available for walk-in visits to our clinic on Via Roma, 4. Monday to Fri.: 11 a.m.–12 p.m., 1–3 p.m., & 5–6 p.m.; Sat.: 11 a.m.–12 p.m. & 1–3 p.m.

• Prompt consultation with specialists by appointment.

• All the medical staff speak English.

• For information or request visit our clinic from Mon.–Fri.: 9:30 a.m.– 1:30p.m.

Via Roma, 4 055 475 411 medserv@tin.it www.medicalservice.firenze.it

MEDITERRANEAN SEAFOOD SPECIALTIES San Carlo bar offers continental and American breakfast and brunch, simple but refined lunch, a large aperitivo buffet, and an extensive wine and cocktail list. Music and art create a warm, lively atmosphere while friendly staff members are always ready to cater to any requests. San Carlo is a bar suited to any time of day: great for a quick coffee or snack, a leisurely aperitivo or meal, or simply an afterdinner drink with friends.

Specialty: TUNA STEAK Borgo Ognissanti, 32-34/r 055 21 68 79 info@sancarlofirenze.it www.sancarlofirenze.it

Alvise Giustinian Corso Tintori, 19/r 055 246 62 95 www.alvisegiustian.com

SEPTEMBER 2015

Florence News & Events 21

CITY BEAT

www.florencenewsandevents.com

A Dynasty in Mosaics Discover the Traversari Brothers

Micromosaics made of tiny pieces obtained by cutting thin glass rods made by melting and spinning highly colored Murano glass.

The Fratelli Traversari factory is specialized in mosaics and costume jewelry, with an emphasis on micromosaics whose designs and origins date back to the nineteenth century. The factory is family-owned, and has been for the past four generations.

As time passes, the artisan workshop has selected the optimal quality of the mosaics that are used, as well as a mosaic technique that continues to this day. The mosaics are completely handmade and are produced with three different techniques: micromosaic in enamel glass that is spun, mosaic in enamel glass that is cut, and Florentine mosaic made of natural hard stones. The production also includes silver and gilded brass costume jewelry with spun enamel micromosaics.

Earrings, rings, pins, bracelets, pendants, boxes, frames, and crosses include the jewelry and objects that are created.

The workshop also reproduces mosaic portraits, works of art, and tabletops; as well as micromosaic

restoration. Many ideas for mosaics are based on clients’ designs and ideas that are then transformed into masterpieces.

The factory has been in the family since 1870, when it was founded.

The founder, Arturo, began with a small souvenir shop on Via Ser Ventura Monaci, in the zone of Piazza Ferrucci. However, it was already focused on micromosaics, especially high-quality jewelry. In 1944, the factory was given to Arturo’s two children, Alfredo and Aldo, and moved to Via Pendemonte. From there, they established the production of new items, such as earrings, rings, pins, bracelets, frames, and crosses.

Today, the workshop is handled by Daniele and Letizia, who are the fourth generation of the Traversari family. For 150 years a family tradition has been passed on, a common patrimony that expresses a unique and precious artistic inheritance.

This technique of micromosaics was born in Rome in 1750. The stones are placed on teghe, which are thin sticks in glass-spun enamel of various forms and colors, and then into a special oven with Murano glass. Due to the spinner, they are melted together to draw different forms and shapes: plates, rose petals, daisy petals, leaves, and other forms.

Traversari Fratelli

Via Senese, 68 055 221685 traversari.mosaici@tin.it www.traversarimosaici.it

Nuti Showcases Napoleon’s Clock

Time is money. And in time of her son Valerio by the hand and war, it can be also a matter of life led him to his first day of school. or death. For this reason Napo- She wanted him to become a denleon, during his camps in Italy tist. As with all mothers, she wantmore than 200 years ago, decid- ed a safe, well-paid job for her son. ed to provide his perennially late The school was one of the most officials with clocks. One of this renowned in Florence, offering clocks today is part of the Nuti courses in different disciplines. collection of antique clocks and But this particular day proved disjewellery. The collection is worth appointing. a visit. In addition to the clocks “The dentist school is full, but that Napoleon gave to his military there is one place available in the officials, it features pieces that watchmaking school – should we belonged to the Florentine aris- sign your son up here?” she was tocracy (which form the core of asked by the employee. the collection); pendulum clocks The woman said yes. No choice from the French Directory period; could have been more approa French amphora-shaped clock priate. Valerio soon excelled at from the second half of the nine- watchmaking; his manual dexterteenth century; English tower ity was natural, as natural as the clocks by John Hoger; and clocks passion he developed for clocks. from the late eighteenth and ear- After school he repaired watchly nineteenth century by Breguet, es and fell in love with collecting a company established in 1775 them. In 1975, he made the move in Paris. All clocks and jewels are and opened his own jewelry shop, certified, making the shipping Antichi Orologi e Gioielli Nuti. faster as it can take up to several The jeweller’s is now run by Valedays to ship a non-certified piece. rio’s family, which keeps his spirit The story of the Nuti company is and story alive. interesting itself. One day in the Time is money. At Nuti, it is also early 1950s a young woman took history.

Antichi Orologi e Gioielli Nuti

Via della Scala 10/r Tel.: 055-294594 Opening hours: 9 a.m. - 12.30 p.m.

4 to 7 p.m., closed on Monday morning

Romanelli Gallery Offers Sculpture Workshops Heir to five generations of sculptors, Raffaello Romanelli specializes in portraiture and opens his family atelier to individual and group lessons. As it happened in the past, when young boys used to attend the atelier of the master to learn his precious secrets (this was called andare a bottega), Studio Galleria Romanelli revives such tradition by offering sculpture classes.

Raffaello guides the students

through learning the basic technique of modeling a realistic subject in clay. The traditional ‘sight-size method’ trains the eyes to measure the proportions and volumes of the figure. At the Romanelli Gallery it is possible to learn how to prepare artworks for kiln firing as well as the molding technique to cast it in plaster.

The studio offers weekly courses, from Monday to Friday, as well as part-time courses or single les-

sons. Each class lasts three hours and takes place in the historical atelier in Borgo San Frediano, in the Oltrarno district. Participants can agree the program and the schedule of classes with the teacher. Classes are open to beginners as well.

Galleria Romanelli

Borgo San Frediano, 70 055 239 60 47 www.raffaelloromanelli.com

THE BEST SUBS IN TOWN HAMBURGERS AND AWARD-WINNING ARTISAN BEER

SNACK BAR ANNA THE BAGEL POINT

THE BAR YOUR MOM WARNED YOU ABOUT

Mostodolce craft brewery was the first of its kind to open in Prato and now supplies twin pubs in Prato and Florence with its award-winning artisan beer. From pitchblack stout to honey beer and a seasonal Christmas variety made from chestnuts, Mostodolce’s range appeals to the most earthy and subtle of palates. Match your choice with complementary dishes created in the pub kitchen: from the hefty flavours of smoked ribs and tortelloni with wild boar ragout to light snacks and the intriguingly named ‘birramisu’.

Enjoy the relaxing atmosphere and the jumbo cappuccinos while having a chat with Anna and Stefano, who will welcome you in a warm and friendly way. Grab one of the many homemade bagels, the bar’s perfected specialty since 1990. These bagels and sandwiches have made this snack spot one of the most popular among local Americans. While taking a break in the back seating area you will be pleased to experience the no-charge table service, which places Snack Bar Anna far from the ‘tourist traps’ in the city.

The newly reopened Jack is ready to rock ‘n’ roll! Come by for lunch or dinner and try the revamped menu featuring traditional Italian food and American staples. Enjoy live music, DJ sets and the costume parties that Jack has become famous for, as well as two HD screens showcasing special sporting events. If all that Italian espresso just isn’t hitting the mark, drop

by One-Eyed Jack’s to enjoy American coffee with a free refill between 11 a.m. and 5 p.m. Free wifi is also available.

Open daily: 11–2 a.m.

Opening hours: Mon. to Sat.: 8:30 a.m.–7:30 p.m.

Via Nazionale, 114/r (near the train station) 055 23 02 928 www.mostodolce.it

Via de’ Ginori, 26/r 055 23 81 143 miranna.lomartire@gmail.com

Daily from 11 a.m.–2 a.m.

Piazza Nazario Sauro, 2/r 055 09 44 561 www.thejackpub.com

Sandwiches, Salads, Soups, Onion Rings, Fries, Pasta & Fresh Fruit.

Mon. - Sat.: 10 a.m. - 7 p.m.

Via Sant'Egidio, 22/r

347 11 88 056 • theoilshoppe.it

SEPTEMBER 2015

22 Florence News & Events

FASHION

www.florencenewsandevents.com

Merenda in Sartoria

The art of sewing

Marianna Jaross

“Colourful, creative, and social” are three words used by founder and creator Romana Rocchino to describe Merenda in Sartoria, a needlecraft workshop tucked away on the quieter side of bridge, in the heart of San Frediano.

Romana’s love for sewing began approximately three years ago, when working with an artist prompted her to know the intricacies of sewing – both with a machine and without, something she asserts is a lost art, and an interest she hopes to rekindle for others.

Sewing machines are available to rent for those who need only the equipment to do make their own clothes, or do repairs without assistance or supervision. For those who are new to the art of sewing and design, Rocchino offers ‘Stitch and Bitch’ sessions to learn

how to create, repair, transform or customize a wardrobe.

What the shop offers is not simply limited to sewing; classes are available in knitting, crocheting, and other workshops are run throughout the year, further fusing creativity with a friendly atmosphere. In fact, the workshop’s title derives from the idea of enjoying afternoon tea at the tailor’s.

Merenda in Sartoria is a great place to delve into the world of design more seriously for aspiring seamstresses, or to pursue a budding hobby amidst an environment of good conversation and innovation. Events are announced on Facebook.

Merenda in Sartoria

Via del Drago d’Oro, 11/r 338 958 9205 info@merendainsartoria.com

Fashion Film Festival Returns to Milan

The second edition of Fashion platform of quality and excellece.

Film Festival Milano takes place More than 600 fashion-related from September 20 to 22, right be- films from 45 countries are being fore the beginning of Milan Fash- screened, with members of the ion Week. jury including Francesca Sozzani, An international event where director of Vogue Italy and L’Uomo fashion films from all over the Vogue, British fashion photograworld are showcased to share dif- pher John Rankin, and fashion ferent points of view, and aesthet- and art documentary filmmaker ic and narrative codes, the festi- Lisa Immordino Vreeland. val is an incubator of talent and a After the first edition’s big success,

Fashion Film Festival Milano is back full of surprises, new collaborations and international partnerships.

Founded and directed by Constanza Cavalli Etro, a lover of both cinema and fashion, the festival and is curated by the editor of i-D Magazine Gloria Maria Cappelletti and takes place at the Anteo Cinema.

Strolling and Shopping Florence Online A new platform for shopping in den away in its maze of winding Florence has been launched on- streets. line.

YouMODY’s objective is to make Entitled YouMODY, the concept these artisans more visible and enables consumers to ‘stroll’ the enable them to be ‘visited’ by a streets of Florence virtually, and greater number of virtual clients, enter the city’s most prestigious in order to promote the range and shops and artisan workshops to quality of items hand-produced buy products. in Florence.

It’s the first time such a compre- “We have united Florence and the hensive approach has been taken ‘Made in Italy’ brand to enable to online shopping in Florence. those who can’t be here physicalWhile the city is renowned for its ly to stroll the streets of Florence craftsmanship, many of these and go shopping,” says concept traditional workshops are hid- founder Lorenzo Bulgarini.

Consumers can browse shops that range in location from the city’s most exclusive thoroughfares, such as Via de’ Tornabuoni and the Ponte Vecchio, to the centrally located Via Porta Rossa, Via della Vigna Nuova, Via de’ Rondinelli and Via del Parione; and Borgo San Jacopo and Via de’ Bardi in the traditionally artisan Oltrarno district.

Items can be purchased online via computer, smartphone or tablet, and are delivered free worldwide by specialized courier.

HAIRDRESSER AND BEAUTY SERVICES Located near Santa Croce, Alchimia offers a variety of women and mens’s hair and beauty services using the finest brands.

Open daily from 9 a.m.–7:30 p.m.

Services include: • Haircuts, color and highlight • GreatLengths® extensions • Keratin reconstruction & hair botox • ESSIE Gel reconstruction and permanent enamel • Acrylic nail care • Waxing • Massage (healing and relaxation) • Eyelash extensions

Via dell’Agnolo, 47–49–51/r 055 24 16 04 www.alchimia-hairdesign.com

SEPTEMBER 2015

24 Florence News & Events

EVENTS

www.florencenewsandevents.com

EXHIBITIONS

FLORENCE OPEN ART PROJECT September 9 – October 9 Le Murate From: 6 p.m.

THE PRINCE OF DREAMS: GIUSEPPE IN THE MEDICI TAPESTRIES BY PONTORMO AND BRONZINO September 15 – February 15 Salone dei Dugento, Palazzo Vecchio

JEFF KOONS IN FLORENCE September 25 – December 28 Hall of Lilies at Palazzo Vecchio & outside in Piazza della Signoria Until September 30: 9 a.m.-11 p.m.; Thursday 9 a.m.-2 p.m.; From October 1: 9 a.m.-7 p.m.; Thursday 9 a.m.-2 p.m. www.musefirenze.it

FREDRIK VAERSLEV AND BETTY GOODMAN September 26 – November 28 Marino Marini Museum From: 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Closed on Tuesdays, Sundays & public holidays www.museomarinomarini.it

ADI DA SAMRAJ: THE RISE OF ORPHEUS Between and Beyond Representation and Abstraction Until October 11 Bargello National Museum From: 8:15 a.m.-5 p.m.; Closed on the 1st, 3rd and 5th Monday of the month, on the 2nd and 4th Sunday of the month. www.polomuseale.firenze.it

MAGNIFICENT Until October 31 Sala d’Arme, Palazzo Vecchio Monday – Sunday: 10 a.m.- 8 p.m. (last show at 7:30 p.m.); English version every hour from 10:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m.

Thursday: 9:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m.

English version every hour from 9:30 a.m.-12:30 a.m.

HERO IN FLORENCE: SARACINO INTERPRETS MICHELANGELO Until September 20 Accademia Gallery From: 8:15 a.m.-6:50 p.m.; Closed on Monday DALÌ MEETS DANTE Until September 27 Palazzo Medici Riccardi From: 10 a.m.-7 p.m.

LEONARDO DA VINCI ALIVE Until November 2 Chiesa di Santo Stefano al Ponte Mon. to Thurs.: 10 a.m.-8:30 p.m.; Friday & Saturday 10 a.m.-11:30 p.m.; Sunday 10 a.m.-10 p.m.

A PALACE AND THE CITY Until April 3, 2016 Ferragamo Museum From: 10 a.m.-7:30 p.m. www.museoferragamo@ferragamo. com

THE POWER OF MYTH: The plans for the facade of the basilica of San Lorenzo in Florence, from Michelangelo to the competition of 1900 Until November 15 Museum of Casa Buonarroti From: 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Closed on Tuesday

NATURAL MATERIALS: EXPERIMENT AND AESTHETIC CONSTRUCTION ACCORDING TO ROBERTO CAPUCCI Until May 14 2016 Villa Bardini From: 10 a.m.-7 p.m.; Closed on Monday www.bardinipeyron.it

HOLY SPIRIT FAIR September 13 Piazza del Carmine From: 9 a.m.-7:30 p.m.

INTERNATIONAL ANTIQUE FAIR September 26 – October 4 Palazzo Corsini From: 10:30 a.m.-8 p.m. www.biennale@mostraantiquariato.it

SPORT

CORRI LA VITA Charity walk and competitive run September 27 at 9:30 a.m.

Piazza Duomo www.firenzemarathon.it

FAIRS & FESTIVITIES

THE LANGUAGE OF FLOWERS Until September 20 The Gucci Museum From: 10 a.m.-8 p.m.

ANTONY GORMLEY: HUMAN Until September 27 Forte Belvedere From: 10 a.m.-8 p.m.

Closed on Monday www.musefirenze.it

DIVINE BEAUTY FROM VAN GOGH TO CHAGALL AND FONTANA September 24 – January 24, 2016 Palazzo Strozzi From: 9 a.m.-8 p.m.; Thursdays 9 a.m.-11 p.m. www.palazzostrozzi.org THE FRUITS OF THE EARTH. STILL LIFE BY ARTURO TOSI AND OTHERS September 21 – November 8 Pitti Palace, Gallery of Modern Art From: Tuesday to Sunday 8:15 a.m.6:50 p.m.; Closed on Monday www.polomuseale.firenze.it

PIERO DI COSIMO Until September 27 Uffizi Gallery From: 8:15 a.m.-6:50 p.m.; Closed on Monday THE ART OF FRANCIS Masterpieces of art and lands of Asia from the 13th to the 15th century Until October 11 Accademia Gallery From: 8:15 a.m.-6:50 p.m.; www.polomuseale.firenze.it

SACRED TREASURES OF THE MEDICI FAMILY DEVOTION Until November 3 Museum of Medici Chapels From: Monday to Sunday 8:15 a.m.4:50 p.m.; Closed on the 2nd and 4th Sunday and 1st, 3rd and 5th Monday of each month www.polomuseale.firenze.it LAPIS LAZULI: THE MAGIC OF BLUE Until November 10 The Medici Treasury From: 8:15 a.m.-6:30 p.m.; Closed on the 1st and last Monday of each month www.polomuseale.firenze.it CARLO DOLCI Until November 15 Palatine Gallery, Palazzo Pitti From: 8:15 a.m.-6:50 p.m.

Closed on Monday www.polomuseale.firenze.it

THE RIFICOLONA: FESTIVAL OF PAPER LANTERNS September 8 & 9 Società Canottieri Firenze & Piazza Santissima Annunziata

PITTI IMMAGINE FRAGRANZE September 11-13 Stazione Leopolda From: 9 a.m.-6 p.m.

FLORENCE CREATIVE FACTORY September 13 Horticultural Garden From: 10:30 a.m.-8 p.m.

THE IRISH PUB IN SAN LORENZO The historic bar offers quality beer, fresh cocktails, sandwiches and snacks amidst a traditional Irish pub atmosphere. The pub also offers various promotions and contests with many exciting prizes. The genuine atmosphere together with the helpful and inviting staff make Dublin Pub an ideal place to spend fun nights in good company or enjoy a beer any time while listening to great background music.

Open daily from 5 p.m.

Via Faenza, 27 055 27 41 571 info@dublinpub.it www.dublinpub.it

SEPTEMBER 2015

26 Florence News & Events

TUSCANY

www.florencenewsandevents.com

Filippino Lippi’s Annunciations Showcased

Marine Le Canne Two paintings by Florentine Renaissance painter Filippino Lippi portraying the theme of the Annunciation are on display at San Gimignano’s town hall until November 2, following recent restoration.

The first painting focuses on the archangel Gabriel as he bears the news that the Virgin will give birth to Christ, while the second portrays the Virgin receiving the news, her eyes cast downwards. Both were commissioned by San Gimignano’s Guelph party Priors and Captains for the city’s Palazzo Comunale (town hall) in 1482.

A major feature of the exhibition is the display of historic documents

detailing the paintings’ commission, preserved in San Gimignano’s city archives for five centuries, which give voice to the Guelph party’s civic spirit and desire to beautify their city’s seat of government.

The exhibit also includes original sketches by Filippino Lippi from the same period, on loan from the Uffizi Gallery.

Lippi, who lived in the second half of the fifteenth century, began his career as an artist training under his father Filippo. Both worked together in the cathedral of Spoleto in Umbria, where they began to paint frescoes depicting the life of the Virgin Mary. Lippi eventually completed the frescoes following the death of his father in 1469.

Siena Reveals Duomo Floor

Lippi went on to become an apprentice under Sandro Botticelli, who had also been a pupil of his father. Lippi’s first works greatly resemble those of Botticelli’s, but with less sensitivity and subtlety. He was also drawn to Dutch paintings of his time, which are still prominent in Renaissance exhibitions today, particularly at the Uffizi Gallery.

Filippino Lippi and the Annunciation of San Gimignano Town Hall of San Gimignano (Pinacoteca di San Gimignano) Until November 2 €7.50; €6.50 (reduced price) www.sangimignanomusei.it

Described by Giorgio Vasari as “the most beautiful, grand and magnificent” pavement ever created, the floor of Siena Duomo is currently on view until the end of October for its annual unveiling to the public.

Although usually covered to protect it from the cathedral’s hordes of visitors, it was revealed a full month earlier this year to commemorate Milan Expo.

Famous for both its intricate inlaid work and themes regarding the search for knowledge, the pavement was begun in the fourteenth century and continued over the course of 500 years until the nineteenth century.

The floor was created using engraving techniques and variously hued local marble ranging from yellow to grey and green. The initial designs for the 56 inlays were produced by important artists, almost all from Siena, including Sassetta, Domenico di Bartolo, Matteo

di Giovanni, Domenico Beccafumi, as well as the ‘foreign’ painter Pinturicchio from Umbria, whose Monte della Sapienza is famous for its symbolic representation of the path to virtue through inner serenity. Domenico Beccafumi’s frieze of Moses Drawing Water from the Rock was created using his innovative technique of colouring marble by tinting the base instead of using different pieces of stone.

A catalogue is available detailing the iconography of the entire floor, as well as audio guides and multimedia tablets that enable closer examination of details that are otherwise difficult to see.

Siena Duomo Floor

Until October 27 Mon to Sat: 10:30 a.m.–7 p.m.

Sun: 9:30 a.m.–6 p.m.

Tickets: €7/€12/€15/€20 (depending on sites selected) www.operaduomo.siena.it

Explore the Gagliardi Contemporary Art Gallery

A JOURNEY THROUGH HUMAN CRUELTY The Torture and Death Penalty Museum displays more than 100 tools designed to torture and kill. Some of these tools are extremely rare, dating to the sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.

They include the notorious ‘iron maiden,’ the guillotine, rack, torture chair and the chastity belt. Also on display are lesserknown sophisticated devices, such as the ‘heretic’s fork,’ the ‘noisemaker’s fife,’ the ‘Spanish spider’, and flaying instruments.

Via San Giovanni, 82 & 125 San Gimignano Open daily: 10 a.m.-8 p.m.

0577-940526, 055-940151 Tickets: Full €10 Concessions: €7; Groups: €5 Ticket valid for free admission to the Museum of Death Penalty www.museodellatortura.it

The Galleria Gagliardi was established in 1991, in a 400-square-meter space once used as a garage and farm machinery store. Today, the Galleria bears absolutely no resemblance to the original building apart from a section of the floor made up of oak boards, covering a hole which once enabled repairs to the underside of cars and machinery in the absence of a ramp. This work of art was created by the previous owner, Dino Conforti, and has been left in his memory. Since 1991, the exhibition area of the gallery has been extended and the gallery has now become a cultural reference for the promotion and sale of contemporary art. Every work is chosen directly from the studios of artists who constantly experiment

new solutions through their research, renewing their approach and skills.

The gallery exhibits ceramic, bronze and marble sculptures; conceptual, abstract and figurative paintings as well as works in steel, iron and wood by Italian and international artists.

Galleria Gagliardi Contemporary Art Via San Giovanni, 57 San Gimignano galleria@galleriagagliaradi.com www.galleriagagliardi.com

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Florence News & Events 27

TUSCANY

www.florencenewsandevents.com

The Secrets of a Gelato World Champion

Master gelato-maker Sergio Dondoli is the man behind the world-renowned Gelateria Dondoli. The hard-to-miss shop in San Gimignano was the Gelato World Champion of 2006/20072008/2009, and they will not let you forget it. His gelato is mentioned in most guides, tops the charts in TripAdvisor, and is occasion the treat of celebrities. In addition to classic flavors, innovation is ever-present in his unique creations. Amidst the tourist rush, Dondoli was able to share some insights into his business: Q: What are the consequences of rather rainy seasons on gelato production?

A: Normally the rain lowers the consumption of gelato. Normal tourists don’t have the desire to lick gelato while simultaneously holding an open umbrella. But fortunately, our gelateria is well known, and so the tourists will suffer through this annoyance

for the flavor of our gelato which, keep in mind, I am also very particular about in terms of flavor combinations.

Q: What are the characteristics that the best milk should have for the production of gelato?

A: We, I say with a little pride but also with honor, adopted 10 cows from Camporbiano Farm for the supply of marvelous fresh milk that is also biodynamic, which has exceptional and organoleptic flavor and quality, precisely because we do not have the precedence of pasteurization and the cows come nourished on fodder from the farm. In Camporbiano’s 26-year history of activity, they have never administered antibiotics to their cows.

Q: What are the flavors that you recommend to customers for the summer?

A: When the heat arrives, and it will certainly arrive, we would like to recommend some fresh flavors

like our Campelmo ® (sparkling Vernaccia wine and red grapefruit), described by Gambero Rosso as the best Italian sorbet; our fruit sorbets are produced only with real fruit such as white pear, Grosseto melon, etc. For those who like cream, beyond our legendary Crema di Santa Fina ® (DOP saffron from San Gimignano and pinenuts from Pisa) we recommend our latest creation, the Michelle, dedicated to Michelle Obama, produced with almonds from Avola, orange zest, honey, and saffron biscuits.

Piazza Cisterna, 4 San Gimignano 0577 942244 sergio@gelateriadondoli.com www.gelateriadipiazza.com

Musica da Vino

Returns on September 13

Wine-tasting and classical music: the Musica da Vino formula hosted annually by Fattoria il Piano continues on September 13 with a concert by Aldo Di Toro Tenor and Sharolyn Kimmorley.

The concert, entitled Songs of Travel includes Italian film scores from Il Postino and Nuovo Cinema Paradiso, some lively Neapolitan numbers and a couple of Bocelli favorites, as well as a few passionate tenor arias.

The concert starts 5 p.m., and booking is necessary.

Aldo Di Toro graduated from the Western Australian Conservatorium of Music and made his debut in opera as Oronte in Alcina for West Australian Opera at the Festival of Perth. Aldo won two awards from Opera Foundation Australia: the 2000 Italian Opera Award which enabled him to study at Teatro Comunale di Bologna and the 2002 AIMS Award for further study in Graz, Austria. Now living in Italy and performing internationally, in

2015 Aldo will perform Alfredo for Opera Queensland and return to Opera Australia to sing Nemorino in Melbourne, and will also make his role debut singing Riccardo in Un Ballo in Maschera in Braunschweig in special outdoor performances.

Sharolyn Kimmorley is regarded as one of Australia’s finest vocal coaches and accompanists. She has recorded for the ABC, taken part in chamber music concerts, and accompanied some of the world’s most distinguished recitalists including Dame Joan Sutherland, Håkan Hagegård, Neil Rosenshein, Bryn Terfel, Wilhelmenia Fernandez, Sir Thomas Allen, Désirée Rancatore, Barbara Bonney, Teddy Tahu Rhodes, Keith Lewis, Yvonne Kenny, Inessa Galante, Dennis O’Neill, Ian Bostridge, Kathleen Battle, Jonathan Lemalu, Peter Coleman-Wright and Cheryl Barker.

MONTAGLIARI FARMHOUSE COOKING CLASSES & WINE TASTINGS Since 1720 Fattoria Montagliari has produced Chianti Classico DOCG, Chianti Classico Riserva, Brunesco di San Lorenzo IGT, grappa, brandy, amaro di San Lorenzo, aged vin santo, extra-virgin olive oil, and aged Trebbiano balsamic (20 and 28 years).

Products can be purchased from the online shop as well as in the farm store and restaurant. The farm, located in the heart of Chianti, offers cooking classes and wine tastings.

Bus stop: ‘Cappelli’ between Lamole Panzano in Chianti.

V. Montagliari, 29 Panzano in Chianti 055 85 20 14 info@fattoriamontagliari.com www.fattoriamontagliari.com

SEPTEMBER 2015

28 Florence News & Events

LEISURE

www.florencenewsandevents.com

Jog Intelligently

Farewell Summer

A Guide to Tuscany’s Top Shores

Jogging in a crowded city with hardly any sufficient sidewalk space can be frustrating, and not to mention dangerous. Luckily, Florence offers some beautiful scenic routes for those who’d like to keep warm and explore the city at the same time.

To avoid pollution, the best place to run is along the Arno, but to avoid pedestrian and vehicular traffic, run along the bank of the river and not on the street. The riverbank is easily accessed from Lungarno Cellini.

Cascine Park is a great place to go running, with large, grassy open spaces along the Arno. It is located off of Via del Fosso Macinante, and is large enough to get in a full workout while exploring the entirety of the park. If you head east out of the river, you will soon come across paved, tree-lined parks Parco dell’Alberetar and Parco dell’Anconella, which are perfect running spots. Equally, if parks are what you’re after to accompany you during your exercise, (or distract you), how about jogging down to the Boboli Gardens behind the Pitti Palace?

There’s an entry fee but the garden

holds spectacular artworks for you to look at whilst you’re jogging, and it is especially stunning at sunset.

For those looking for a flat but long run, start south of the Ponte Vecchio and continue east past Ponte alle Grazie. At the roundabout at Ponte di San Niccolò, turn right and follow the trees along Viale Michelangelo, and continue all the way around Piazzale Michelangelo. Turn right onto Via Galileo to bring you back down to the river and to your starting point.

An alternative route starts at the Duomo, heading south along Via dei Calzaiuoli and crossing the Ponte Vecchio, until the roundabout at Porta Romana. Turn left onto Via Machiavelli and follow the winding road which turns into Via Galileo.

Veer left upon reaching Piazzale Michelangelo and around the back of the square, following the bends onto Via San Miniato. Head for the river to get back to your starting point.

It may seem impossible to get proper outdoor exercise in a city, but joggers are well rewarded with the picturesque routes that Florence has to offer outside of the main city streets.

Italy’s most important environmental agency, Legambiente, awarded 18 beaches in Tuscany with the Blue Flag last year. Based on a criteria of 32 items, the beaches were categorized by their water quality, environmental education and information, environmental management, and safety and services.

As the weather heats up and a day at the beach beckons, why not

check out some of the following spots? Top-rated Tuscan and Italian shores are: Carrara-Marina di Carrara (Massa-Carrara); Forte dei Marmi, Pietrasanta, Camaiore, Viareggio (Lucca); Pisa-Marina di Pisa, Calambrone, Tirrenia (Pisa); Livorno-Antignano, Quercianella, Rosignano Marittimo-Castiglioncello, Vada, Cecina-Marina, Le Gorette, Bibbona-Marina, Castagneto Carducci, San Vincenzo,

Piombino-Parco Naturale della Sterpaia, Marciano Marina-La Fenicia (Livorno); and Follonica, Castiglione della Pescaia, Grosseto-Marina di Grosseto, Principina al mare, and Monte Argentario (Grosseto).

Further north, but still very accessible, is the rocky Italian Riviera of Liguria, the area where the Cinque Terre are. Its blue-flag beaches are: Bordighera, Santo Stefano al mare-Baia azzurra, San Lorenzo al Mare (Imperia); Loano, Pietra Ligure Ponente, Finale Ligure, Noli, Spotorno-Zona Moli Sirio e Sant’Antonio, Bergeggi, Savona-Fornaci, Albissola Marina, Albisola Superiore, Celle Ligure, Varazze (Savona); Chiavari, Lavagna, Moneglia (Genova); and Framura, Lerici, and Ameglia-Fiumaretta (La Spezia).

For those planning on traveling south to Rome, the advice is to check out these beaches: Anzio (Roma), Marina di Latina, Sabaudia, San Felice Circeo, Sperlonga, Gaeta, and Ventotene-Cala Nave (Latina).

... and Florence’s Gardens Piazzale Michelangelo. The perfect place for a panoramic view of the city, especially great for sunsets.

Giardino delle Rose. A green terrace below Piazzale Michelangelo, overlooking the historic center of the city. Address: Viale Giuseppe Poggi 2 (near Piazzale Michelangelo).

Bardini Gardens. On the hills near Piazzale Michelangelo is one of Florence’s best kept secrets. Visitors will see camellias, viburnum,

hydrangeas, glycines and rose trees of various species. Address: Costa San Giorgio, 2.

Giardino dell’Orticoltura. Built in 1879 by Giacomo Roster for the Tuscan Horticultural Society.

Address: Via Vittorio Emanuele II, 4.

Botanical Gardens. Established

by Cosimo dei Medici in 1545, this is one of the oldest parks in the world. Address: Via Micheli.

Cascine Park. A daytime hotspot for outdoor activities, much loved

by Florentines. Every Tuesday the park hosts the city’s largest openair market, with very good offers on local specialties such as cheese, vegetables and honey.

Frederick Stibbert Villa. Transformed from a simple Italian park to a romantic English garden by Giuseppe Poggi, this outdoor space features temples, rock caves, fountains and a mysterious Egyptian temple. Entrance to the garden is free. Address: Via Federigo Stibbert, 26.

SEPTEMBER 2015

Florence News & Events 29

SPORT

www.florencenewsandevents.com

More Than Just Soccer

Discover alternative sports in Florence Soccer dominates Italian sporting culture, yet there are several other sports one can engage in while in Florence. Whether you are looking to cheer on horses, catch a foul ball or see a sport that you have never even heard of, Florence has many sporting events to offer.

Rugby: Although seen as the evil step-brother to both American football and soccer, rugby does have a presence in Florence. The organization has multiple teams for people of all ages, so there is no telling who you will see playing when you go to the practice pitch. The senior team is called Aeroporto Firenze and still has a number of games to play before the season ends in May. Even though they aren’t professional, it would be fun to see a rugby game in Italy. For more information go to www.firenzerugby1931.it Horse Racing: Whenever people think of horse racing in Italy, they often think of Il Palio in Siena. However, Siena is not the only place in Tuscany that offers horse racing.

There are multiple styles of racing, including chariot racing. A large venue is open to spectators that offers gambling, restaurants and lounges. Located only 20 minutes from the SMN train station, this is a perfect event for a sunny weekend afternoon. For more information go to www.visarno.it or send an email to visarno@hid.it. The track and office is located at Viale del Visarno, 14.

Basketball: Although not the same status as the Los Angeles Lakers, Fiorentina does have its own professional basketball team. The team is called Enegan Firenze and is part

of the Italia-DNA Silver league. The team plays other local cities such as Lucca, Roseto and Bari, to name a few. Despite being in second to last place with an 8–14 record, the team would love to see some international support. It would also be fun to see how Italian basketball compares to American basketball with March Madness coming up! For more information go to www.affricobasketfirenze.com or call 055 53 85 922. The office is located at Viale Paoli, 20.

Baseball: Baseball is great sport to watch with spring right around the corner. MLB spring training won’t be starting for a while so why not take the this time to visit another team? The Fiorentina baseball field is located a couple of blocks from the Fiorentina soccer stadium and is great sport to go watch on an afternoon. The team is currently in Series C but has had success in the past in Series A. For more information go to www.fiorentinabaseball.it or email info@fiorentinabaseball.it.

American Football: Yes, American football exists outside of the borders of the USA. Just because we are the only ones who watch it, doesn’t mean we are the only ones who play it! Guelfi Firenze is the American football team in Florence and currently plays in the second league under the Italian Federation of American Football. Although the season is over, the team would love to play with Americans. Spend an afternoon with the team running up and down the field, catching footballs or showing them how good you are at the American sport. For more information go to www.guelfifirenze.it or call 339 70 12 020.

NAIMA

Tips to Become a Fiorentina Fan

FIORENTINA SEPTEMBER HOME GAMES SERIE A

Fiorentina vs Genoa September 12 at 3 p.m.

Fiorentina vs Bologna September 23 at 3 p.m.

Fiorentina vs Chievo May 31 at 8:45 p.m.

How to get to the stadium: ON FOOT: Start on the north side of the Ponte Vecchio. Head east until the parallel street finally turns into Lungarno Pecori Giraldi. Turn left at Viale Giovanni Amendola, past the roundabout and then right onto Via Giuseppe Mazzino. This street takes you to Campo di Marte train station; cross the footbridge over the tracks and follow the road for one block down Viale Manfredo Fanti until you arrive at the stadium, which will be on your right hand side of the street.

If you start near Piazza Repubblica, go down Via degli Speziali and head east on the same street which will turn into, in order, Via del Corso, Borgo degli Albizi, Via Pietrapiana and then Borgo la Croce. You will meet a roundabout on Viale Giovanni Amendola; go left onto Via Giuseppe Mazzino and onto the footbridge at Campo di Marte station mentioned above. Continue with the same directions described above.

BY SHUTTLE BUS: Bus no. 52 runs services from Piazza Stazione at Santa Maria Novella train station during the two hours preceding the game. The same shuttle runs return services up to an hour after the

game finishes. From Rifredi train station take bus no. 54. These buses are usually packed, so if you have a chance to take the earlier one I recommend it.

How to get tickets: Stadium tickets typically cost anywhere from €20–70. They can be bought from online retailers or at authorized kiosks. The kiosk near the Piazza della Republica (right off Via Pellicceria) is a common dealer.

The best place to sit in the stadium is on the sideline so that you can see all the action. Sitting behind a goal is not ideal because it is difficult to view the action on the opposite side of the field. However, these seats are usually the cheapest. Make sure that, under no circumstances, you sit in the visitor section. This section is physically barricaded from the rest of the stadium, and the visiting fans who find themselves outside of this designated section are separated from the rest of the crowd by a human shield of security guards.

Despite these precautions, tensions can get heated, so prepare for some rowdy scenes. But do not fear; it’s all part of the authentic experience of a Florentine soccer match.

EUROPA LAEGUE

Fiorentina vs Basilea September 17 at 9:05 p.m.

Tickets can be bought through When in Florence, online at it.violachannel.tv, at the stadium and at Fiorentina Point on Viale Manfredo Fanti, 85/A. Keep up to date with Fiorentina at en.violachannel.tv

DISCOVER FLORENCE’S SOCCER MUSEUM The Museo del Calcio (Soccer Museum) located in the Coverciano area, not far from the stadium. The museum is divided into three floors that reveal the history of Italian and international soccer from its origins in the twentieth century.

All jerseys exhibited belonged to former players, and the cleats on display date back to the years of the sport’s pioneers during the second half of the nineteenth century.

Viale Aldo Palazzeschi, 20 Mon–Fri: 9 a.m.–1 p.m.; 3–7 p.m.

Sat: 9 a.m.–1 p.m.

Entry: €5; €3 reduced

NAIMA

Via dell'Anguillara, 54/r I 347 19 41 013 sergiosalvifirenze@gmail.com

LIVE SPORT NEW GYM NEAR SANTA MARIA NOVELLA Brand new gym in the heart of Florence is now open.

• Fully outfitted with the latest cardio & strength equipment from Technogym • Offering a wide array of classes ranging from Zumba to Pilates, every week • All-inclusive memberships with no sign-up fees • Special pricing for students • Friendly English-speaking staff • Free wi-fi Mon. to Fri.: 8 a.m.-10 p.m, Saturday: 10 a.m.-6 p.m, Sunday: 10 a.m.-1 p.m.

Via dei Fossi, 56/r 055 23 96 497

SEPTEMBER 2015

30 Florence News & Events

TRAVEL

www.florencenewsandevents.com

Old-School Glamour and Modern Luxury

Known as the playground of the rich and famous, the French Riviera boasts more than glamour and billionaires. Also known as the Côte d’Azur, this paradise of spectacular beaches, gastronomy and rich history extends from the Italian border along the southeastern corner of the French coastline, including the sovereign state of Monaco. Not only was it one of the first modern resort areas, but its color and light attracted numerous master artists such as Paul Signac, Cézanne, Van Gogh, Picasso and Matisse, who set up studios along the coast. After World War II, the French Riviera became a

Take a trip to the French Riviera with Bus2alps

popular tourist destination, and since then it has drawn countless celebrities, such as Brigette Bardot, Elton John, Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, Tina Turner and Bono. Today the French Riviera is no longer reserved only for the rich and elite but has become more accessible to tourists. Nice is the Cote d’Azur’s largest city and offers many beautiful destinations, such as the Promenade des Anglais and Castle Hill, which offers some of the most incredible views overlooking the ocean and city. Activities available include scuba diving, sailing and canyoning; however, for a more relaxed day of exploration the city

also offers museums and the famous Cours Saleya flower market.

The preserved medieval village of Eze, situated high on the Grand Corniche (1400 feet above sea level), is another location for gorgeous views and is also home to the Fragonard Parfumerie, a famous French perfume factory and shop that is open for tours. Antibes is another beautiful medieval coastal village known for its 48 beaches, and the IYC, home to some of the world’s biggest super yachts. It’s the perfect place to lounge on the beach, eat in the open-air market, visit the Picasso Museum and shop at the many quaint shops.

The glamour Monaco is absolutely not to be missed while vacationing on the Cote d’Azur. The world’s second smallest sovereign state is internationally known not only for its renowned Monte Carlo Casino but also for the Prince’s Palace of Monaco, where American actress Grace Kelly resided as Princess of Monaco. An unbeatable spring getaway for students in Florence who want to get a taste of the high-roller lifestyle, the Bus2alps French Riviera tour offers roundtrip transportation, itineraries and helpful guides, making the Côte d’Azur’s luxury accessible to everyone.

• • • • • •

Included

Round-trip luxury coach transport (with A/C, DVD, & bathroom) Accommodation with your friends at top-rated hostels Breakfast (optional upgrade available) Entrance to Fragonard perfumery with included tour The French Riviera Bus2alps destination guide Bus2alps trip leader