Jackson Hole Skier Magazine 2014 by Bob Woodall

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CONTENTS RESORTS

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Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Stash Parks at JHMR Adaptive Skiing Snow King Mountain Resort Teton Ice Park Grand Targhee Resort

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Beacon Parks, Avy Hazard Lab, Avy Education Helicopter Skiing in Jackson Hole Mountain Guides’ Advice Teton Pass Ambassador’s Report Helicopter Skiing in Alaska

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Village Center Building Demolished Camping Out For Winter’s First Tram S&S Couloir Birthday Plunge Kastle Retailer of the Year Town Downhill Ski Club Race Kids Sampler Doug Coombs Foundation Resi, Seppi, and Pepi Stiegler – a ski-racing legacy Tommy Moe – from ski racing to powder skiing Jonathan Selkowitz – FIS Journalist of the Year Kit DesLauriers – 1st female solo descents Kim Havell – 1st female descent of Otter Body Teton County Search And Rescue Photospread – 9 photographer-athlete collaborations Ski Town Jobs – locals tell stories, give insight TreeFight, SHIFT – local activism targets global change DEEP – the book Way of Life, Frosty Flakes – the movies Winter’s Wind – the making of a life-work ski film Videos – valley youths get after it In Memoriam

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Alpine Medical Advice Sled Dog Tours Winter Activities and Events Snowmobiling Business Directory Lodging Directory Resort Trail Maps Town of Jackson Map

BACKCOUNTRY

PEOPLE & EVENTS

DIVERSIONS

facebook.com/focusjh Check out the website – jhskier.net

Cover: skier Jason Tattersall; photo Wade McKoy Contents: skier Daniel Tisi; photo Wade McKoy / TGR Publishers: Bob Woodall and Wade McKoy, dba Focus Productions, Inc.; Editor: Wade McKoy; Copy Editor: Mike Calabrese; Photo Manager: Eric Rohr; Art Director: Janet Melvin; Ads: Bob Woodall, Nanci Montgomery. The JACKSON HOLE SKIER annual winter visitor’s guide is free when picked up at one of 160 distribution points throughout Jackson Hole. Receive one in the mail by sending $5 to JH SKIER, P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, WY, 83001.

Printed in the U.S.A.

Contributing Photographers: Chris Figenshau, Mark Fisher, Tristan Greszko, Gabe Rogel, Jonathan Selkowitz, David Stubbs, Greg Von Doersten, Patrick Nelson, Eric Seymour, Rich Goodwin, Rob Kingwill, Angel Rodri, Kit DesLauriers, Jay Pistono, Brian Warren, Chris Wilde, Court Lev, Eric Layton, Frank Shine. Copyright—2014 by Focus Productions, Inc. (fpi). All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher.

Wade McKoy photo

No Name Peak, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort backcountry, snowboarder unknown

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The next subtle change – the transformation of the old trout pond/ice skating rink into the new Village Commons – created the gravitas for a truly worthy tribal circle. A summer plaza for water-spout frolicking and outdoor concerts, in winter the Village Commons morphs into an elaborately sculpted ice palace and sledding hill. It’s a kid magnet. Waiting adults can warm themselves around the gas-lit bonfire or join in the play. “It’s the little things that make people explore the village,” said Anna Cole, JHMR communications manager. By many accounts, Teton Village has now matured into a world-class resort that matches the long-renowned majesty of Rendezvous Mountain.

The Village Commons Ice Palace

Teton Village has matured into a world-class resort that matches the long-renowned majesty of Rendezvous Mountain.

Ranked #1 Resort officials, the Town of Jackson, and the community at large celebrated when news broke that the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort was, as SKI magazine’s Kimberly Beekman wrote, “deemed this year by SKI readers to be the best in North America. A surprise upset, perhaps – but our only surprise was that JH hadn’t won sooner.” No doubt, many locals agree. SKI magazine’s reader survey also ranked Jackson Hole #1 in four individual categories: Overall Satisfaction, Character, Variety, and Challenge. Jackson Hole notched wins in 2011 and ‘12 when Forbes magazine ranked it #1 Ski Area in the United Sates two years in a row – using the criteria of “Awesomeness.” The Forbes ranking highlighted new lift improvements, great snow, and the resort’s growing status as a culinary destination. “It’s the best skiing mountain in North America,” declared Forbes.

AJ Cargill, Amphitheater

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Bob Woodall photos

Most Winter Visits Ever In a perfect storm of landmark achievements, winter 2012/13 ended with the highest level of skier/rider visits in the resort’s history. Totaling approximately 502,222, it’s the first time JHMR had broken the half-million mark, a level that only about 20 resorts can claim. To their credit, the Kemmerer Family invested an average $8 million per year for the past 17 years in resort improvements. Most recently, the new high-speed Casper Chairlift and the “All New, All Blue” campaign of terrain modification and extensive grooming drew unabashed praise from intermediatelevel riders. Expert skiers enjoyed it, too.

Wade McKoy Hannah Horigan, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort backcountry

“Guests have shown their appreciation by giving high scores to our snow-condition surveys – a 7.7 on a scale of 10,” said resort president Jerry Blann. “You’d need to go back to the incredible snow year of 2007/2008 (605” vs. 385” this year) to see survey scores that high.” The resort recently expanded its fleet of groomers and plans to continue investing in grooming. Guest-services scores pegged ever higher, even with increased visitation. “Our employees are taking service seriously, and it is showing,” said Blann.

“Guests have shown their appreciation by giving high scores to our snow-condition surveys – a 7.7 on a scale of 10.”

Nonstop Flights from 12 Cities This list keeps growing, too. Cities with direct flights to J.H. now include Newark, JFK, Chicago, Houston, San Francisco, Denver, Atlanta, Minneapolis, Salt Lake City, Dallas, Los Angeles, and Seattle.

Get On The Slopes Quicker With New RFID Gates “Open says-me!” No more ticket or pass scans. You don’t even have to take the new J Card out of your pocket. The gate magically opens for you by using the radio frequency ID technology (RFID). No need for your wallet, either. The J Card has Resort Charge Enabling technology – you can embed a credit card or a pre-loaded amount. But keep it away from your cell phone, iPod, or foilwrapped gum and cold medicine; all can

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wipe out the data. Don’t worry, though: the lifties are still there to help with this handsfree, hassle-free, lift access.

JH Tapped / Twitter The jacksonhole.com website is also smartphone-compatible. Download the resort’s free app for maps, weather, useful tips, and mountain info. See which runs are groomed and which are closed. Locate yourself and your friends and family on the Jackson Hole trail map, courtesy of Google Latitude. Record your runs and log vertical feet and distance. Display your tracks and replay your runs on the trail map. E-mail images to friends, post them to Facebook, or

view them in Google Earth. This smartphone app does all that and much more. Check the resort’s Twitter # for frequent updates on snow conditions and lift statuses.

Mountain Hosts Jackson Hole Mountain Hosts lead complimentary orientation tours for intermediatelevel skiers, departing from the Mountain Hosts’ meeting place daily at 9:30 a.m. Additional tours for advanced/expert clientele depart from the top of Rendezvous Bowl on the hour, from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Backcountry Yurt Luxury in the backcountry: an overnight stay in the Rock Springs Yurt. Your ski guide prepares dinner, dessert, breakfast, and hot drinks. Ski to the yurt through the backcountry gates or tour up from the base to the scenic location in lower Rock Springs. Don’t want to stay overnight? Ask about the hot gourmet lunch option or an Aprés Ski event.

Vertical-Foot Club Become a lifetime member of the Jackson Hole Vertical-Foot Club by skiing 100,000 feet in a week. Earn a certificate of achievement and a Western belt buckle for a lifetime total of 300,000, 500,000, and 1,000,000 feet. Open to all visitors. For more details on how to enroll, check in with the Customer Service Continued page 14 w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Wade McKoy / Teton Gravity Research

Nate Siegler; Lost Lifty, JHMR backcountry. See the stop-action sequence of Nateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s front flip @ jhskier.net

The Village Center, named the Seven Levels and one of four original buildings in 1965 Teton Village, opened while the tram was still under construction. Paul McCollister and Alex Morley studied plans on the hood of their Buick.

The Village Center, built in 1964 as the Seven Levels Inn, was demolished last fall to make way for private luxury condos. At the time of destruction, the iconic gathering place was home to The Village Café, Teton Gravity Research, and Wildernest Sports, among others. Surviving nearly five decades of ski area history – embedded in the ski-bum lifestyle and steeped in tradition – The Village Center housed a myriad of businesses, including Teton Village Sports, the Rendezvous Bar, Captain Video, Teton Video, the Bear Claw Café (Gelunde Quaff birthplace), Lee’s Tees, Village Center Inn, Focus West Photography, Henderson’s Lockers, and the ski school locker room. With the demise of the center, tenant businesses scattered. Eventually, the VC rose to the Inn and TGR regrouped in Wilson. Some, though, will not rise again. A fond farewell to Wildernest Sports. Now only three buildings from the resort’s 1964 opening remain – the Alpenhof, Nick Wilson’s Cowboy Cafe, and the Sojourner (remodeled into the Snake River Lodge). — Jackson Hole Skier

Last call. Tricia Ireland tending bar at the old VC.

The last icons standing – The Village Cafe and the ski lockers. JHMR continued from page 12

Center. Smartphone users can download the free JH Tapped App to log vertical feet by GPS.

comfort food. Burger bar, burritos, hot drinks with a kick.

On-mountain Dining

Situated in one of the world’s most pristine environments, the resort steadfastly maintains its pro-environment practices. The Couloir and the Deck restaurants are members of 1% for the Planet, further complimenting their already established ecofriendly practices: the majority of ingredients come from within a 250-mile radius; menus are designed seasonally to reduce the carbon footprint, and local farmers’ markets and ranches are extensively resourced. Jackson Hole Mountain Resort is a founding member of the Climate Challenge, an innovative sustainability program that aims to reduce greenhouse gas emissions from the ski industry. JHMR also has a Golden Eagle Environmental Award, the highest standard of environmental achievement in the ski industry issued by the National Ski Area Association. The resort is celebrating its seventh year with

Top of the World Waffles – Ride the aerial tram to the summit and enter Corbet’s Cabin for freshly made sweet or savory waffles. Headwall Pizza and Dog House – At the Gondola summit, a casual restaurant serving fresh pizza, Kobe hot dogs, house-made soups, and gourmet grab-n-go items. Espresso bar and tea. Rendezvous – At the Gondola summit, floor-to-ceiling windows provide impressive views. Asian bowls and hand-rolled sushi, grill meals, full salad bar, and Idaho Saltbaked Potatoes. Couloir – At the Gondola summit, casual dining, full-service lunch. Favorites include the Snake River Farms Kobe N.Y. Strip Sandwich, Poached Pear “Waldorf” Salad. Nonskiers can purchase a gondola sightseeing ticket. Casper Restaurant – Classic gourmet ski

Environmental Responsibility

Let’s Be Friends!

an ISO 14001 registration, one of only two U.S. resorts to receive the designation awarded businesses that minimize their environmental impact. Specifics include purchasing sustainable food and beverage products, converting vehicles to run on waste vegetable oil, modifying furnaces to achieve a 20-percent reduction in fuel use, and recycling used motor oil, batteries, antifreeze, and snowmelt. The resort is also generating a Greenhouse Gas Inventory and Management Plan designed to further reduce energy use, giving it the triple crown of environmental management: ISO 14001 registration, GHG Inventory, and an accompanying GHG Management Plan. And in the fight to save the whitebark pine from chronic beetle infestation that has killed vast numbers of the 1,000-year-old, high-altitude species, JHMR and the Bridger Teton National Forest last summer sprayed 250 trees and placed pheromone patches on 575 trees. — Jackson Hole Skier with excerpts from jacksonhole.com

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web.stagram.com/n/jacksonholemtnrst/

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Wade McKoy photos (2); courtesy Jackson Hole Mountain Resort (top)

THE VILLAGE CENTER GOES DOWN

Jonathan Selkowitz

Photo captionTown downhille

Wade McKoy photos

Ben Blakely, a coach with the Jackson Hole Ski Club, is seen here winning the Fat and Baggy category in the 2013 Town Downhill.

Hans Johnstone, son Sasha

Justin Watsabaugh

Ben Wilson

Adam McCool

Rick Hunt

75th Anniversary Town Downhill & Olympic Celebration here aren’t many places in the world where a citizen can strap on a pair of long skis and race in a downhill,” said Jim Sullivan, Snow King’s ski area manager from 1984 to 2010. The Town Downhill (TDH) has been a Jackson tradition since 1982. The origin of its nickname, the Mini-Hahnenkamm, dates back to the 1950s, when Jim Huidekoper, one of the ski area’s founders, named Snow King’s steepest run The Steilhang because it reminded him of a slope on Austria’s famed peak, the Hahnenkamm. Pro-division racers hit speeds of 70 mph as they schuss Grizzly top to bottom in less than a minute. The Steilhang rushes towards racers as they rocket out of The Chute. Shitzenpantzen absolutely gets their attention, followed by The Pro Bump and The Money Turn. Speed and camaraderie are common denominators among veteran TDH racers. Veteran TDH racer and announcer Ben Wilson said, “The true king of the TDH is Adam McCool, who’s been in every one.”

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Longtime sponsor and TDH veteran Rick Hunt said, “I pushed for adding a junior division and now the teenagers love it!” Veteran TDH racer Rob Watsabaugh said, “The guy that has the most fun wins. I’ve been winning every year.” Crystal Wright, three-year women’s pro division champion, four-year amateur champion, said, “The Town Downhill is my all-time favorite community event and once-a-year downhill adrenaline rush.” Former Olympic Nordic ski jumper Hans Johnstone places the TDH top in the “rush” catagory. “It’s the only thing that gives me the adrenaline rush that I got from ski jumping.” Aaron Pruzan, a TDH race veteran and organizer said, “It’s scary fun, the Mini-Hahnenkamm. Steeps, high speed, big air. Hacks can race against Olympians. Always among the most fun weekends and best party. Be there!” Info at Jhskiclub.org — Jackson Hole Skier w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

KEEPERS OF THE FLAME

Jonathan Selkowitz photos (2); Photo courtesy Pepi Stiegler

The Stiegler Ski-racing Legacy

Pepi Stiegler winning at the 1961 Austrian Championships in Lienz.

“My dad, Pepi, is Austrian and my source for constant inspiration. Papa won a silver medal in giant slalom at his first Olympics in Squaw Valley, California. He also won a Bronze in GS and a Gold in slalom in the 1964 Olympics in Innsbruck, Austria. Papa has a trophy for winning the prestigious Lauberhorn combined (downhill and slalom). In 1961, he won three FIS A-1 slalom races (World Cup predecessor) and was the Austrian Champion.” — Resi Stiegler From your years of racing on the Austrian Ski Team, what still resonates today? Pepi Stiegler: “I wanted to excel in something in my life. Athletics, sports, was a path, a road, for me to achieve something significant, and would ultimately improve my life. “My race career was relatively short. I got onto the Austrian Team in ’59/60 and I quit right after the Olympics. I could have stayed in the career longer if I wanted to, but I didn’t want to. I had achieved what I was struggling for, what I had on my mind. So I felt like, why continue? “This is a little bit different from today. The racer, he or she, continues to race to obtain

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Resi Stiegler (top) and Seppi Stiegler (bottom) race on the World Cup.

money from sponsors, just by starting. It wasn’t that way in those days. I was hoping that some person, some ski resort, would be very interested in me because I won a Gold Medal. And it was that way.” Who was your mentor? “Othmar Schneider, our coach and an Olympic champion, was specifically training me for Squaw Valley. He shaped me up to be qualified in all three events. I won a Silver in giant slalom and that year the French beat the hell out of the Austrians in downhill with their ski-base technology. Othmar also recommended me to Paul McCollister and Alex Morley, owners of Jackson Hole Ski Resort, for the ski school director job.” Where are your Olympic medals? “I gave the medals to the mayor of Lienz, Austria, my home town. This is an interesting story. I was in the 1960 Olympics in Squaw Valley and I got a Silver medal. There was no problem. But in ’64, other athletes wanted to get on the select team of four, and there’re 12 men on the team who could win. The Lienz folks got very worked up about me not being nominated, and were very outspoken. The

Austrian Ski Team leadership did ultimately decide on me. They are the heroes because they made the right decision – because I won! Destiny? I don’t know. But I gave the medals to the city of Lienz. They deserved to have them.” “My brother Seppi and I grew up in a log cabin in the woods, five miles from the nearest town of Wilson, pop. 202. He’s still my best friend and favorite training partner. He graduated from DU (University of Denver) and was on the Varsity Ski Team. His freshman year he nabbed the Silver Medal in Slalom and earned First Team All-American Honors. — Resi Stiegler Describe the ski-racing lifestyle. Seppi Stiegler: “Fun. The excitement. Challenge. Something you invest yourself in. Time and energy. Seeing the fruits of your labor. And it’s a social thing as well. I have great teammates. I’m on Team America – four ski racers selected and sponsored by the Alpine America Foundation. It’s a new thing, a new trend filling a void, a missing pipeline for alpine technical skiers. I have priority for Europa Cup races and the NorAm series, and to w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

KEEPERS OF THE FLAME

Tommy Moe

Jonathan Selkowitz (race); Wade McKoy (portrait)

Olympian and ski ambassador tells tales of racing and powder skiing

From his garage in Wilson, Wyoming, Tommy Moe recollects his Olympic Gold downhill run in Lillehammer, Norway (right) and other career highlights. “My dad was always there for me,” said Moe. “Even at my last, the Olympic downhill in Nagano, Japan, he was there watching.”

What race highlights still stick with you? My first breakthrough was at the Whistler World Cup downhill in ’93. I started mid-field and finished in second place. I remember buckling my boots, thinking ‘Here we go, I’m ready to rock.’ Went out of the starting gate looking for speed the whole way down. Everything felt like I was in complete control. The next year I had a great season again, in ’94, when I won the Olympic downhill in Lillehammer, Norway. ’93, ’94, ’95 seasons were my best. I got to see all the great ski resorts throughout Switzerland, Austria, France, Italy. Raced all the big downhills – Kitzbuhel, Wengen, Val Gardena, Bormio. I personally liked the Kvjitjell, Norway, and the Whistler downhills best. During your childhood what inspired you to pursue alpine ski racing? My dad inspired me to pursue racing. We grew up skiing at Whitefish, Montana; they had a good program. My brother Mike was a big inspiration, too. Back then racing was the only avenue you could take to the professional level. There were no half-pipes or terrain parks. Just mountain terrain, natural hits. I was into skiing and I loved the racing aspect. I tried to be the best that I could be, and it took me all over the world. When I made the National

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“We had one jump, The Big Drift – like a downhill run going into it, then hit the compression and get sent right to the moon off the thing. And we skied tight trees, little couloirs, open bowls. Back in the ‘80s that was all that was going on really, freeskiing on narrow skis.” — Tommy Moe

Team – I was on the U.S. Ski Team for 12 years – I traveled to Europe, South America, New Zealand, and Japan. I skied and raced in all those great countries. And my dad was always there for me. Even at my last race, the Olympic downhill in Nagano, Japan, he was there watching. During your racing career did you meet any dignitaries, get the keys to any cities? (Laughing) I have the key to the city of Palmer, Alaska, and Anchorage gave me a key, too. In Europe I met Franz Klammer

and Jean Claude Killy in Val d’Isère, France. That was pretty cool. They were legends, pioneer skiers. I met Alberto Tomba. And Hillary Clinton showed up for the Olympic downhill in Lillehammer, Norway. I high-fived her and Chelsea back in ’94. How did freeskiing lead you to racing? We had a little rat pack, a ski club that met every Saturday. Sometimes we’d run gates and sometimes we’d freeski. We had one jump, The Big Drift – like a downhill run going into it, then hit the compression and get sent right to the moon off the thing. And we skied tight trees, little couloirs, open bowls. Back in the ‘80s that was all that was going on really, freeskiing on narrow skis. Where does the passion for skiing take you these days? I like hiking the Pass. I live in Wilson, I can see out my window when it’s good. I’ll get my binoculars, look up on the Pass and Teton Village. If it looks good, I’ll run out the door and head out for a few runs. I love cold winter days when the snow is good and you’re just out freesking with your buddies! My two daughters, Taylor and Taryn, are skiing now. It’s a blast, showing them how to ski. I feel lucky to live in such a great place with the outdoors right at your fingertips. — Jackson Hole Skier w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Jonathan Selkowitz FIS Journalist Of The Year

Wade McKoy (portrait)

Jackson Hole photographer Jonathan Selkowitz was named Journalist of the Year for 2012 by the Federation of International Skiing (FIS). Selkowitz picked up the trophy in Beaver Creek, Colorado, during the 2012 Birds of Prey World Cup. For almost two decades magazines have published Selkowitz’s pictures of Bode Miller, Lindsey Vonn, and a host of World Cup winners. His March 2012 Powder magazine cover of Mikaela Shiffrin broke two precedents: the cover athlete is almost always male and is almost never ski racing. From 2000 to 2007 Selkowitz traveled 270 days-a-year to follow ski team events in alpine, freestyle, Nordic, and adaptive-team disciplines. He shot three Olympics – 1998 Nagano, Japan; 2002 Salt Lake City, Utah; and 2006 Torino, Italy – intermittently working for the Duomo and Newsport photo agencies, the U.S. Ski Team, Ski Racing magazine, as well as other publications and commercial clients. “The ’98 Olympics was a key job for me,” Selkowitz said of his Duomo assignment. “The U.S. ski team started taking me more seriously – I wasn’t just the pressroom marauding donut-and-coffee poacher in Japan. A year later the ski team asked me to shoot the U.S. Nationals in Jackson and began working with me more.” The award is not lightly bestowed. Selkowitz said he was honored to be in the company of Bob Beatty, Joe Jay Jalbert, and ski-team writer Paul Robbins, who became

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“The ’98 Olympics was a key job for me, the U.S. ski team started taking me more seriously – I wasn’t just the pressroom marauding donutand-coffee poacher in Japan.” — Jonathan Selkowitz Jonathan Selkowitz

one of his mentors. “Paul Robbins was a walking encyclopedia of U.S. Ski Team history,” said Selkowitz, noting that Robbins had in fact once come to his rescue. “I showed up to shoot the Lake Louise World Cup, my credit cards maxed, and no place to stay. The hotel had lost my reservation! Paul had them put a cot in the corner of his tiny room and was happy to have me join him. We were good friends ever since.” Selkowitz himself grew up ski racing, and later became a race coach and a ski instructor. He parlayed a basic photography class into a four-year stint working for Jackson photographer David Swift. “I thought I was going to be a fashion photographer,” he said. “I enjoyed working with models. I didn’t think I’d be in the ski business.” But when the World Cup came to Park City, like any ski-racer-turned photographer, he went to shoot it. With no press pass, shooting from outside the fencing, he spotted an acquaintance on the course. “My college Spanish tutor was making photos for Ski Racing magazine,” he said.

“She coaxed me under the fence, told me to stand next to her, and gave me a glimpse of the excitement. She even critiqued my film, which also was very helpful.” Helpful indeed. “I got so excited at being so close to the action that for the next three years I went to all of the World Cups in the neighborhood – Aspen, Vail, Park City,” he noted, adding, “I slept in my car a lot.” He garnered early press credentials with a letter of assignment from the Jackson Hole News. “They were very kind,” he said. “They didn’t need the pictures, but that got me on the hill, got me the ticket to hang out with the other photographers. I learned about the photo biz listening to the other photographers, and they were interested in my point of view from my ski-racing background.” Selkowitz continues to photograph some World Cup racing and training, although recently he has been sticking closer to his home in Victor, Idaho, to focus on crafting images of freeriding, lifestyle, and scenic abstracts. And somehow he manages to ski almost every day, either in the backcountry, the resorts, or the Nordic centers. — Jackson Hole Skier

2014

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GRAND TARGHEE

Photo by Bob Bybee, courtesy Gene Palmer

MOUNTAIN RESORT

Gene Palmer, 1972

Rexburg ski racer Gene Palmer helped pioneer this west-side Teton powder stash

Wade McKoy photos

ighty-three-year-old Gene Palmer remembers

Fred’s Mountain before it became Grand Targhee, when its main winter visitors were snowshoe hares and the occasional cross-country skier, and its summer visitors numbered only Fred and the sheep he herded. A lifelong skier and racer from nearby Rexburg, Idaho, Palmer had settled back onto the family farm after two years military service in Europe – where he also skied – and an eight-year stint teaching math, chemistry, and physics at Madison High School in his home town. Gene Palmer, 2013 – no stranger to magazines featuring him, holds a 2009 story in Teton Valley.

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Dorian Densmore skis his native Wyoming’s powder at Grand Targhee.

“It’s the snow. I’ve skied all over the Intermountain West, some in the western U.S., and several times in Europe, and I’m always glad to come home. We have the greatest snow on earth.” —Gene Palmer “Then along came this opportunity,” said Palmer. “In the late Sixties some friends came to me, they needed people with knowledge about the ski business.” Palmer helped the group raise seed money for a loan from the Economic Development Administration to build the ski area. During the three-year pre-construction period he served on the board of directors. When Grand Targhee opened on Dec. 26, 1969, he resigned from the board to take the helm as the resort’s first ski school director, a post he held for the next 25 years. Today he continues to train instructors,

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teach skiing, and still skis on his days off. But after all those years, one thing still resonates. “It’s the snow,” said Palmer. “I’ve skied all over the Intermountain West, some in the western U.S., and several times in Europe, and I’m always glad to come home. We have the greatest snow on earth.” Soft snow and lots of it wasn’t always preferable, though. “In the beginning years we didn’t have snow cats,” said Palmer. “The first winter we were open, ‘69/70, we were setting up a slalom course and it started snowing. By the time we got back to the top, five feet of fresh

snow was on our course. We had some real heavy winters those years. Everybody called it ‘Cowboy skiin’ ‘cause we didn’t have the machinery to groom it.” The race team did the best they could, side-stepping the courses and learning to race in soft snow and deep ruts. This knowledge helped Palmer’s son Gary win at least one big ski race. “When my son was in college at BYU, they won the Collegiate Ski Association National Championships at Waterville Valley, Vermont, because he could ski ruts,” Palmer said. “He was the cleanup man and he had to get third

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Kevin Cass, PowderDay Photography With an annual snowfall average of 500 inches, days like this are pretty common at Grand Targhee.

for them to win, which he did. They brought him there because he could ski ruts.” In Palmer’s lifelong career at Grand Targhee he has worked for three different owners. “The group of us that built it went broke in four years,” he said. “We lost our shirts. An Ohio plastics manufacturer, Bill Robinson – he invented resealable plastic cups and lids – bought it for its debts. They were good people. They tried hard. In ‘69-73 they put the Blackfoot lift in. We kind of limped along and did the best we could.” That’s a far cry from where Grand Targhee is today. The modern, complete resort is owned by Geordie Gillett and his father George, who once owned Vail. They are hands-on and love Grand Targhee. “Geordie Gillett lives in Driggs and is involved daily,” he said. “They’ve done some great things. The atmosphere is very positive. I’m so happy and feel so blessed to be able to be here and be a part of this.”

Mountain Characteristics

2,000 acres of lift-serviced terrain, 10% beginner, 70% intermediate, 20% advanced. Vertical rise: 2,270 feet. Base elevation: 7,860 feet. Groomed trails: 500 acres. Ski lifts: two high-speed quad chairs, one quad chair, one double chair, and one magic carpet. Snowcat skiing on Peaked Mountain: 600+ acres, 2,000-foot vertical rise. There are 15k of groomed Nordic and fat snow bike trails. Stop in at the Activity Center to book all your adventure: snowmobile tours, naturalist tours, backcountry tours, sleigh-ride dinners, tubing, early tracks, mountain tours and more.

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Wade McKoy

Access and Resources

Tucked into the western slope of the Tetons in Alta, Wyoming, Grand Targhee Resort is a powder sanctuary. The resort receives the most snowfall in Wyoming, averaging 500” annually, thanks to its home right up against the high alpine barrier. At the base of the mountain, a complete array of amenties complement Mother Nature’s handiwork: three slopeside lodges with accommodations to meet any budget, a dedicated ski shop with the latest gear and demos, a custom boot fitter, a snowboard shop, rental shop, an activity center, four different dining options, a general store, and an on-mountain photography service. Nice teamwork, to say the least.

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Wade McKoy

BACKCOUNTRY

Dave Coon knows his way around the Tetons.

What’s In Your Pack? What’s On Your Mind? When skiing the backcountry, being “out there” comes with some basic responsibilities. Three top local guides weigh in.

Brian Warren’s first message to backcountry travelers: know the decision-making aspect of mountain travel and its true, real-time consequences. “In my teaching I always say, ‘We can go from zero to trouble in a matter of a tram ride or an hour of touring,’” said Warren. Direct access to big Teton descents “can come with a high cost if a group is not prepared.” He asks his students, “Are we prepared to go out for two hours? How about eight

hours? Could we deal with an epic if we get lost, have a mechanical failure, or have to navigate in a whiteout? Do we know where cell phones work and have emergency phone numbers?” One newly important consideration comes from the drastic increase in user numbers. “In the busy winter venues of the Tetons, how do we interact with one another?” asks Warren, and he encourages his clientele to find a mentor to help with the answers. Communication within and between groups is paramount. “I usually learn the most when I ask my friends how their day went,” he said. “What

Brian Warren

Brian Warren Winter Director / Lead Ski Guide Jackson Hole Mountain Guides

Brian Warren

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Mark Fisher Wade McKoy

The dawn patrol hikes up a backcountry run in the dark using headlamps to light the way.

decisions are being made at the trailhead? In the mountains? At the trailhead at the day’s end? Even if it’s a short lap out of the gates or at Teton Pass, it still deserves a debrief. All it takes is simple communication over the entire day to keep everybody safe and comfortable.” And, of course, backcountry travelers should carry the right tools to assist in the event of an accident. Many people don’t realize how long it takes to organize a winter rescue, he said. “Certainly long enough for cold injuries to set in,” said Warren. “We’re always on a fine line, we dance around serious terrain. It can become very lively and complicated very quickly. Avalanches are just part of it. The consequences of a sprained ankle or a blown knee in the backcountry can turn a quick lap out of the gates into a full day of evacuation. People fixate on snow stability, but what about just moving through the mountains with your friends?”

What’s in Brian’s pack?

An appropriate winter travel kit should be carried at all times in the backcountry, including sidecountry routes like Rock Springs and Granite Canyon. Additional tools are appropriate for specific outings and guiding. When going out the gates and away from the ski patrol’s reach, be prepared, whether the group is small or large, or the planned outing w w w. j h s k i e r. n e t

is short or long. • Day Pack – 20-30 liter. Stow snow safety tools inside. • Snow Safety Tools – Metal shovel, 2+ meter probe, snow saw and, of course, the avalanche beacon you’re wearing. • Ski Straps – Always good to have a few extra for boot packing or repair. • Skins – for ski touring and moving around • Extra Layers – Insulated jacket, extra gloves, extra hat, and possibly extra sunglasses and goggles • Thermos – Hot liquid for hydration • Food – Enough snacks for the outing planned and, of course, some extra at all times • Sunscreen – Mother always said… • Extra Beacon – Not always needed, but for larger groups having at least one extra is key. • Equipment Tools – Leatherman, Binding Buddy, Edge File, Skin Wax • Repair/First Aid Kit – Basic supplies for injuries as well as binding or pole repair parts • Cell Phone – Fully charged phone and protective case • Navigation Tools – Topo map, compass, GPS and an inclinometer • Headlamp – Enough said… • Notebook – Phone numbers and contacts for emergencies, also good to record snow and weather observations.

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Diane Verna and Jeff Jung Co-owners / Lead Guides Teton Backcountry Guides

When we head out we have Plan A, Plan B, and Plan C. Every time we go skiing, even when not guiding, we have multiple plans. Each includes, but is not limited to, factors of snow stability, snow conditions, the weather, and the group’s ability level and physical condition. Using snow-pack stability forecasts and weather forecasts, we go into the field with a hypothesis – what we expect to find. Then we look for concrete evidence to support, or refute, our hypothesis. We constantly think about the snow and weather. Which way is the wind blowing? How much snow is being transported? How much snow is falling? How conditions are, or are not, changing. Which ultimately gets you back to Plan A, Plan B, and Plan C.

What’s in Jeff ’s and Diane’s packs?

Dave Miller Supervisor / Lead Guide Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Alpine Guides Jackson Hole Mountain Resort is known for high-alpine steeps, long runs, and an open-gate policy that allows skiers and snowboarders easy access to the side-country. It’s literally right in front of your ski tips. But that short step out of bounds puts you in the untamed Tetons – no ski patrol assistance, no marked runs, and no avalanche mitigation to the slopes. Inherent dangers lurk in this wild mountain environment. “Whiteouts” can bewilder and trick skiers into the wrong drainage. “Sucker tracks” made by savvy locals in steep cliff areas and couloirs may be pathways to danger for unwary tourists who follow them. “Double-exposure” happens when more than one party skis the same drainage at the same time. To learn the proper mindset – how to think about avalanche conditions and snow-pack mechanics, how to mitigate risk by using proper terrain evaluation and ski techniques, how to share the slopes safely – hire a guide. Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Alpine Guides are one of the oldest ski guide services in the U.S. and boast a world-class roster. They know where to uncover the hidden powder stashes and how to enjoy a safe, fun day in the mountains. Some important points for all backcountry travelers to consider: • Think with your head, not with your ego. • Don’t use a hit-list for the backcountry. Go with the safest option for the day. Every day is different for avalanche conditions: aspect, wind, new snow, etc. • Have the right gear and know how to use

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Wade McKoy photos; Jeff Jung photo courtesy Teton Backcoutry Guides

Dave Miller lays down the season’s first tracks in Cody Bowl on the unusually late date of February 3, 2012, a low-snowfall year. His run was high-speed run and light footed. “I wanted out of there,” he said from a safe zone at the bottom. Within an hour the bowl was tracked from wall to wall by eager snowriders who’d been eyeing it warily for over a month. It remained stable for most of the rest of the season.

Please keep in mind, we don’t guide in the frontcountry or sidecountry. Our yurts are kind of “out there.” Our day tours are pretty “out there,” too. Skiing into Mail Cabin, climbing Mt. Taylor, dropping into Turkey Chute off 25 Short. We don’t have the convenience of ski patrol, other skiers, or other guides nearby. In addition to the more obvious backcountry items – shovel, probe, transceiver (on your

Dave Miller

it. Beacon, probe poles, and shovel. Make sure to turn your beacon ON and test it with your buddy. • Ski with a partner and let someone else know where you are touring. • Beware of sucker tracks. • When you are on a big slope, before you make your first turn have an exit plan in case it slides. Look for an island of safety anywhere you have to stop. • Be courteous by not skiing down on top of other parties.

What’s in Dave’s pack? Cell Phone Probe and shovel Extra warm clothing Water and food First aid kit, lighter or matches Space blanket and bivy sack

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1st Female Solo Ski Descents KIT DESLAURIES

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Kit DesLauriers

Ski mountaineer Kit DesLauriers added “solo” to her resume last June, when she climbed and skied Wyoming’s two tallest mountains, the Grand Teton and Gannet Peak – alone. A champion freeskier and the first person to ski the Seven Summits, DesLauriers has learned to be comfortable in extreme situations. She’s no stranger on the Grand either, racking up a half-dozen ski descents and once leading the complete climb. Even so, she’d been prepared to turn back at the bottom of the Stettner Couloir if she “didn’t have the huevos to go solo.” “When I got to the Stettner and looked up,” she said, “I’m like, ‘Oh yeah, been here, done this five times before. Never had a problem. Always had a rope, but I don’t need a rope.’ And I just started climbing up.” Not that she plans on making it a habit. “The ‘solo’ thing doesn’t feel like a trend or have a specific purpose; it was just a cool experience in the moment,” she said. “Climbing the Stettner was awesome. The snow was nice and hard. In the Ford (Couloir) I was punching through, but it was frozen enough. And the ski down was absolutely bullet-proof.” After reaching the summit and skiing corn snow on the upper East Face in the early-morning sunshine, DesLauriers side-slipped Kit DesLauriers, self-portrait on Grand Teton summit into the shaded Ford Couloir. “I like firm, technical skiing, but when I slipped into the Ford and Her 3:30 a.m. start initially pushed some warmth into her body, and made a couple turns, I went, ‘Damn.’ It was rock hard – icy, icy, icy. when the sun finally reached her on the route up the Gooseneck GlaSkis not making a mark. Wow! I’m just hanging on with this little bit of cier, she thought, “Yes! I’ve been freezing for so long, it feels great to an edge. It was spicy.” know I’ll be in the sun for the next twelve hours.” It’s a conundrum. To wait for the sun to shine into the Ford and Then she heard the telltale crunching of soften the snow can increase the exposure footfalls through snow and saw two guys to rock-fall lower down. climbing up the ridge. “The heat on the upper mountain creates “Because I was alone and I “They got up to me and started signing,” potential for spontaneous snow-, rock-, and wasn’t worried about making she said. “Two deaf, mute men climbing Ganice-fall down the Chevy and Stettner net on June 15. It was a heart-opening expecouloirs,” said DesLauriers. “Because I was a mistake with my skiing, I rience. Quite surprising and deeply, alone and I wasn’t worried about making a skied earlier than usual to personally meaningful. mistake with my skiing, I skied earlier than “Still wanting to be alone, I took off, usual to avoid getting hit by a piece of falling avoid getting hit by a piece of reached the summit, and got my skis all ready ice. You could really get screwed up if you’re falling ice. You could really to go. The guys showed up, and again we alone and you have that problem.” had a good interaction. They took pictures of The Teepee Glacier was also a hazard – get screwed up if you’re alone me and I skied off. I never saw them again. I the snow hadn’t frozen at that elevation – never even learned their names! and small wet-slides chased DesLauriers and you have that problem.” “Skiing Bonnie Pass was some of the best down to The Meadows. corn turns I’ve ever made. It’s a decent pitch, “I texted Rob at the summit and at the probably 35 degrees. The snow was pristine – no runnels, no other ski bottom of Stettner” said DesLauriers, and let him know that she’d be tracks, and few rocks had fallen to mar the surface. Below the pass, home in time to pick up their kids from school. where it turns low angle for a couple miles, I had this sensation: This is A week later Kit DesLauriers drove to Pinedale for a 50-hour solo what’s going to carry me for the next five months. This is it, right now. attempt on Gannett Peak, Wyoming’s tallest (13,804 feet), and reIt felt so good. Looking around, so beautiful.” motely tucked away 20 miles into the Wind River Range. She left the DesLauriers reached her bivouac and decided to push all the way Elkhart Park Trailhead at 4:30 p.m., hiked on wet dirt, and post-holed home that same day. through patches of snow to her first bivouac. “I started walking at noon and got to the truck at 10 at night,” she Next morning she undertook an arduous trek into Titcomb Basin said. “I went out 20 miles, with the 50 or so on-off of the skis and danthat included a passel of river crossings in the raging spring runoff. For gerous creek crossings. The last 45 minutes was in total darkness. All I her second bivouac in the high-altitude frozen world on Titcomb Lake, could think of was bears. DesLauriers found a tiny oasis of grass and open water at the lake’s “The last few hours on the melted-out trail, I thought, ‘That wilderedge. A big mountain and Bonney Pass still hid any view of Gannet’s ness experience was super cool.’” massive overhanging snow face and waiting thousand-foot cliff. While — Jackson Hole Skier at her high camp, trying to keep the cold and wind at bay, DesLauriers read a book and planned the details of summit day.

1st Female Ski Descent, Grand Teton’s Otter Body

Wade McKoy

KIM HAVELL

Kim Havell has plenty of skis in her shed for whatever conditions the weather might conjure up.

Recent Jackson transplant Kim Havell wasted no time putting her tems dialed – taking skis on and off their packs, clipping into anchors, stamp on the Tetons last ski season, racking up over 40 ski-mounplacing protection – the right stuff built from ample time in the field. taineering routes, including the first-female descent of the Grand’s “There’s no room for error,” said Havell. “You have to be very careful Otter Body. with your switch-overs, and it’s very awkward.” “The way things lined up, the Otter Body was the most likely next The team hoped the second rappel would be easier, so they didn’t route to ski,” said the pro skier, who moved to Jackson from Telluride in don crampons. the spring of 2012. “We had our eyes on it every time we went up high.” “Crampons would have been awkward in a different way,” she said. Havell and ski partners Brian Warren and Pete Gaston eyed a “But I led a 60-meter traverse on pure ice. If I had lost my footing and March date. But as a weather window appeared, she learned that Jeswung all the way across the rock, I would’ve shock-loaded the anremy Jones and his Higher film crew were planning to snowboard the chor. It was an ugly scene, definitely hard.” Otter Body on the same day. Her team postThe difficulties stayed with the trio even to the poned their attempt, then were denied by last rappel. “Once we got even with weather throughout April’s showers. They “The last anchor station was terrible,” she were ready, though, when the route finally said. “We put in what protection we could, but the Ford Couloir, we waited came back into condition on May 15. still, it was not awesome. We got out of there as another fifteen minutes, The trio climbed the Otter Body and quickly as possible.” reached the summit of the Grand Teton at 7 After the final rappel onto Teepee Glacier the then had great corn turns a.m. They waited briefly for the snow to team coiled the ropes and hastily skied away down to the first rappel soften, then elected to begin the descent of from the wall. the East Face on hard-pack. “You’re off the climb, but you’re still exposed,” onto the Otter Body.” “It’s a fine line in decision making, besaid Havell. “The whole East Face is hanging cause it starts to heat so fast,” said Havell. above you and it could shed as the temperatures “Once we got even with the Ford Couloir, we waited another fifteen warm.” minutes, then had great corn turns down to the first rappel onto the And that’s a day in the life of a ski mountaineer. So what’s next? Otter Body.” “I have some big thoughts,” Havell said, laughing. “Last winter I got Temperatures began to rise quickly and the trio sped down the first familiar with the terrain, mapped it out, laid the groundwork for more rappel onto the Otter Body and quickly coiled the ropes. The skiing exploratory skiing. There’re a lot of things I’d like to get done, big was soft, but perfect – nothing sketchy, yet. routes that are established and some new things, too. They’re not feaThe next transition, however, got a little dicey. sible, though, unless conditions are really good and the weather coop“The snow became firm again and we had to be really careful getting erates.” into position for the next series of rappels,” said Havell. “It rolls over Check out their film on the descent at http://www.jhskier.net, search steeply, is quite exposed, and you have to ski right to the anchor point.” Kim Havell. These are the moments when mountaineers must have their sys— Jackson Hole Skier

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MUSH! HIKE! LET’S GO! Sled dog tours, a storybook experience “Mush! Hike! All Right! Let’s Go!” the musher calls out to his team.

Dog sledding combines that primal relationship of man and his loyal canine with the rush of whisking through snow-covered country and disappearing into the wild. It’s the Jack London storybook experience.

By Sandra Keats

he tale is tried and true. Whether it was Lassie and Timmy, Dorothy and Toto, Travis and Old Yeller, Duncan and Rin Tin Tin, or Buck and John Thornton, dog has always been man’s best friend. But 12 Totos pulling Dorothy, Tin Man, Lion, and Scarecrow down the Yellow Brick Road? Not in Dorothy’s wildest dreams! Well, what if Dorothy had found herself trudging down a trail deep in the Yukon? Maybe then she might have swapped the ruby red pumps for a dog sled and her precious Toto for a team of Alaskan huskies to pull her home. Dog sledding combines that primal relationship of man and his loyal canine with the rush of whisking through snow-covered country and disappearing into the wild. It’s the Jack London storybook experience. Imagine a day where a foot of un-

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touched powder settles over the Jackson Hole Valley. You leave your skis at home and, bundled in layer upon layer with a thermos of hot chocolate in hand, you take to the trail with a local musher. “Mush! Hike! All Right! Let’s Go!” the musher calls out to his team. The dogs explode into motion, and off you go, dog and man, on a picturesque journey across frozen rivers, snow-blanketed valleys, dense forest, and rugged mountains. For you this is a one-day adventure. For the musher, though, it’s a lifestyle. Just ask Jackson Hole’s eight-time Iditarod veteran Frank Teasley. It was the romantic allure that initially grabbed him and pulled him into the dog-sledding lifestyle. But now it’s the rewarding relationship between a musher and his dogs – and the commitment to those dogs – that keeps

Photos by Bob Woodall

On the trail the dogs are silent as they go about their work.

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Eric Layton, H2O photo The lift is half the fun when it comes to helicopter skiing.

H2O Guides

Chugach Range, Valdez, Alaska Operational and Terrain Overviews: The longest continuously operating Alaska helicopter skiing outfit, H2O Guides was founded by Dean Cummings, who pioneered remote heli-ski guiding in the Chugach Range starting in 1991. It opened the Alaska experience to skiers of all abilities. The enterprise’s research, development, and common bonds shared with guests allows access to 19 interconnected regions, each Teton Range-sized and within the most impressive snow-belt on earth. Two daily flights serve Valdez. Clients can avail themselves of inclusive packages, four exclusive groups weekly, and some of the smoothest, steepest, most expansive heli-ski terrain available. Mornings start early with a hot continental breakfast. The daily logistics display board details planned flight operations based on weather and groups. Skiers keep their pack and gear organized and close by, and stay ready to launch to the field.

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Photo courtesy H2O

Chris Wilde, VHSG photo

Dean Cummings skis The Hourglass.

Just another legendary Alaska snowstorm.

From nine strategic staging areas, the company’s three A-Star B2 helicopters whisk waiting clients to remote areas in the pristine Chugach Range. The terrain offers some of Alaska’s deepest snowpack, one of the highest concentrations of glaciers in the world, and supreme vistas of Prince William Sound, where skiers can carve out the runs of a lifetime. H2O Guides is the sole licensed heli-ski operator for 225,280 acres of core Chugach terrain and has access to 2.6 million acres in all. The permits were earned through a competitive process based on H20’s proven experience, excellent safety record, and ultimate respect for wildlife habitat and the environment. With hundreds of established landing zones, and a focus on big-mountain safety protocols and groupteam emphasis, there is no better way to access the goods!

get even better than it already is." – Nicole Baran "I compare it to how the kids felt when they got the golden tickets to Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory. Skiing in Alaska is like a made-up ski world." – Mike & Jaime Robertson "We had a fantastic trip and your company is by far the best heli experience in the world. Your family is amazing, and you (Karen) and Dean made us feel like we were part of it. Kind regards." – Abdi Mirashrafi

Testimonials: "Every run was the best run of my life! Seriously, the most thrilling trip I've ever been on. I couldn't have dreamt up some of the stuff we skied and I didn't know powder could

Down Day Activities: Ice climbing, Thompson Pass road runs (powder skiing on non-flyable days), backcountry touring, glacier trekking, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, sea kayak-

Contact Info & Social Media: ALASKAHELICOPTERSKIING.COM; 907-8358418; h2ooutdoorgear.com; dean@h2oguides.com; Twitter: @h2oguides; facebook.com /H2OGuides Season: 03/01/14 - 04/26/14 Years in Operation: 20

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A RUN WITH

Photographer Chris Figenshau Skier Tanner Flanagan

Chris Figenshau

“I first met Tanner early one frigid morning on a Jackson cross street. My car had died, and as motorists maneuvered their rigs around me Tanner parked his car and helped me push mine through the intersection and out of the way. As a way of thanking him, I offered to take him up an early Tram one powder morning. I had no idea that he was a complete maniac. This shot is from that day. Tanner is dropping in the right side of 'Once is Enough' in less than ideal conditions and making it look sexy. This frame shows Tanner in soft snow opening up the throttle, but the turns above this section were on firm snow with shallow coverage. Extra spicy!” — Chris Figenshau

Tanner Flanagan

“I had never skied the fin before. I had always looked over at it from the regular entrance to Once Is Enough, but I always just skied the gut of the couloir. This time I was headed for the fin. Hiking gives you time to think about the line, time to think of the great and horrible things that could happen. I try to just focus on relaxing so that I can actually make decisions. At the top everything looked great, I was so focused on where I was going to ski that I forgot to put on the head-cam and film it. Milliseconds after this shot, the fin fractured and I had to ski very fast out of there ahead of the slough. When I got to the bottom I never cheered so loud in my life.” — Tanner Flanagan

Tanner Flanagan, the fin line in Once Is Enough; photo by Chris Figenshau

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A RUN WITH

Photographer Mark Fisher Skier Elyse Saugstad

Mark Fisher

“I love skiing Teton Pass more than about any other place in the Tetons, even though it’s become increasingly crowded over the years. This shot came at the end of a long and amazing day of skiing powder at Teton Village; one of those epic, bluebird, deep-pow days that really only happen a few times a year. I knew that we’d still find good snow on the Pass for one last sunset session. We left the village, raced up the boot pack, and snagged these turns and shot just as the sun was setting. It was the perfect ending to an incredible day of skiing.” — Mark Fisher

“I hadn’t skied in Jackson Hole since my ski racing days when I was a teen, so I was overly excited to come visit and ski the impressive terrain the Tetons have to offer. A storm had hit, and wanting to squeeze every last ounce out of a great day of bluebird pow skiing, our group figured it’d be a treat to finish the day off with a sunset-mission lap on the Pass. My first time skiing the Pass fell nothing short of marvelous – great views, good skiing, fun crew, and tasty beers with high fives back at the trucks all combined for one heck of a finish to the day.” — Elyse Saugstad Elyse Saugstad

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Elyse Saugstad on Teton Pass; photo by Mark Fisher

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A RUN WITH Photographer Tristan Greszko

Skier Watkin McLennan

Watkin McLennan

“Ski photography has always been a team sport. The photographer and skier must collaborate to catch the moment just right. Tristan had just gotten a new toy, a remote for his camera. His idea was for me to hold the camera whilst he pressed the button remotely. Perhaps this is the ultimate “selfie,” or maybe just a self portrait of Tristan (that’s him down below in the picture). Regardless, it is a novel take on a park shot and it was a whole lot of fun taking it with him. Ultimate team work.” — Watkin McLennan

Watkin McLennan (close), and Tristan Greszko (far), JHMR terrain park; photo by Tristan Greszko

“This is a funny image to me in so many ways. I’d always wanted to shoot a park POV like this because I’d never seen anything like it before (this was pre-GoPro of course, now shots like this are easy). Jackson was never exactly the place to shoot good park photos, though. Then in 2008, Christian Pondella won Powder’s Photo of the Year with a similar photo of Chris Benchetler at Mammoth. After that I sort of lost interest. But in 2010 JHMR finally built a decent terrain park and supertalented Aussie skier Watkin McLennan was in town, so this is one of the better shots from a few laps on Eagle’s Rest.” — Tristan Greszko Tristan Greszko

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A RUN WITH Photographer Bob Woodall

Skier Chris Newson

Chris Newson

“Bob and I had been out all morning shooting. The mountain was pretty well tracked out. When we got on Thunder we saw some untouched spots on Tram Line. Bob was looking for what he calls a ‘resort shot.’ One with an angle that would capture the untracked snow with the tram in the back. We get to the spot and talk on the radio. It is not always east to understand exactly what he sees and where he wants me to be in the shot. Timing is key, as we only get one chance at it. The tram is there. Three, two, one, and I go.” – Chris Newson

Chris Newson, Lower Faces, Jackson Hole Moutain Resort; photo by Bob Woodall

“From my first winter in Jackson Hole I became almost obsessed with pockets of sparkling snow just to the south of Thunder Chair. Add the tram and the sun and the picture is perfect. Chris and I spied several rather obscure little patches. They take a little maneuvering to get into, as they were not natural lines. That is why they were still untracked in the late morning. Timing is important when you want the tram in a shot. Cue the skier too early or too late, you miss it. I have spent lots of time over the years waiting for the tram and I don’t mean in the tram line. So we maneuvered into the spot, there’s the tram, cue the skier. Bingo. We got a beautiful shot with the sun and a nice shadow. I love shadows in photos. They add a third dimension to the shot.” — Bob Woodall w w w. j h s k i e r. n e t

Bob Woodall

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A RUN WITH

Photographer David Stubbs Skier Drew Pogge

David Stubbs

“The Apocalypse is a beautiful, dangerous place. It has fairytale lines and blue ice. It has 50-degree roll overs, variable, no-fall zones – change your whole perspective kind of beauty. An avalanche had flushed out the snow the day before, so we were hoping for a smooth, chalky bed surface with some pockets of soft. I was getting to know Drew Pogge as we slogged up the flank of the couloir. He was in town to write a story and I was shooting it for Exum. Following a rappel into the fog, we traveled very carefully and deliberately down, and I managed to shoot a few pictures off my chest, quickly. Drew skied it flawlessly. Sweet relief was what I was thinking, watching Drew slide out safely. The Apocalypse is a risky place with incredible allure. On March 1, 2013, an avalanche took Jarad Spackman's life in the couloir, moments after he had exclaimed to his partner how beautiful it was.” — David Stubbs

Drew Pogge

“Skiing the Apocalypse that day was sort of a last-minute idea. It was a beautiful morning, but as we climbed, the weather closed in and by the time we rigged the ropes for the first of two rappels, it was feeling pretty ominous. There's a cave at the transition from rappelling to skiing where you put your skis on. You literally ski out of this cave into 2,000 vertical feet of exposed, steep skiing. Once we dropped in, it was perfect. The wind and blowing snow and blue icefalls glowing through the gloom combined to create a surreal skiing experience that felt completely appropriate for the line. After the final rappel off of a V-thread in the ice, it was simply beautiful couloir skiing onto the apron, and we hit the cars just as it got completely dark. A classic GTNP day!” — Drew Pogge w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Drew Pogge, Apocalypse, Grand Teton National Park; photo by David Stubbs

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A RUN WITH

Jeff Leger, Little Fat Bastard, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort backcountry; photo by Wade McKoy

Photographer Wade McKoy Skier Jeff Leger

Jeff Leger

Wade McKoy

“I’ve witnessed and documented many of Jeff Leger’s leaps. For this shot I climbed onto the rock to get the most dramatic perspective of the cliff looming over the viewer. I also wanted to get off the snow slope just in case it slid. Standing on a solid ledge, one hand-hold on rock, the other on my camera, I practiced panning through the flight. framing and reframing. I watched a flock of juncos flutter in and perch on the cliff. I listened to their birdsong, to the rustling breezes, to the silence. We were ready. I heard, ‘Dropping in 10 seconds!’ Then I heard Leger’s flight cut through the silence like a chainsaw as my motor-drive clicked the shutter at 8-frames-per second.” — Wade McKoy

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“You’d never find yourself on top of this cliff by accident. It’s an obscure spot at the end of a large cliff band with no good access from above. I threw in a boot pack and made my way to the top. Once there I tried to keep my heart rate down as I plotted the take off, trajectory, and landing procedures. The low-angle slope above the cliff required me to stomp out a small launching pad. This preparation gave me time to contemplate. Time to get stoked and time to be scared. Time to second guess and reevaluate. To energize and motivate. With my plan set, I shouted to Wade and headed for the edge. Once in space, I tried to get as big as I can to fully enjoy my time in orbit. With a soft landing and a hoot from McKoy, I knew we were in for a special day. Smiling, I threw my skis over my shoulder and headed back up to scope out the next huck.” — Jeff Leger w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

A RUN WITH

Mike Leake, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort; photo by Gabe Rogel

Photographer Gabe Rogel Skier Mike Leake

Gabe Rogel

Mike Leake

“I shot this photo of Mike Leake with a Canon 1D Mark III (f2.8 and 1/8000 sec) and a Canon 15mm Fisheye lens at Jackson Hole. We caught an early tram that morning, but it looks like we were lucky to find a powder stash later in the day for this photo. I dig the speed and emotion captured here. With the super wide angle lens and close proximity to Mike, you can almost sense Mike’s elation as he blows up the fresh snow.” — Gabe Rogel

“Skiing in the Tetons and at Jackson Hole is not always about perfectly fresh pow runs, though those days are nice. Sometimes it’s about the hunt for good snow when most of the resort or sidecountry is skied-out. And when you find the right places to look, the reward sure can be deep. One of the best things about Jackson Hole is that it is full of these stashes.” — Mike Leake

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A RUN WITH Photographer Jonathan Selkowitz

Skier Brady Johnson and his dog Timber

Jonathan Selkowitz

“It was a most memorable day. Aside from the sweet powder, setting full moon, and sunrise light, Brady introduced me to a couple new lines, as he continues to do ever since I introduced him to skiing the Pass a couple decades ago.” — Jonathan Selkowitz

Brady Johnson and Timber

“This was one of those magical spring days in the Tetons. Who would’ve thought you could find six inches of feather-light, orthographic fluff on top of a carve-able sun crust, groomer smooth from weeks of highpressure freeze/thaw. I think only a former ski racer, his coach, and a four-legged companion could really appreciate the unique combination of conditions that day. Not to mention, I might have mowed my lawn that afternoon. It was definitely, ‘woof-tastic!’” — Brady Johnston

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Brady Johnson and Timber, Teton Pass; photo by Jonathan Selkowitz

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A RUN WITH Photographer Greg Von Doersten

Snowboarder Rob Kingwill

Greg Von Doersten

Portrait Photo by Angel Rodri

“This particular image was shot in a seldom-ridden area of the Jackson Hole backcountry that many people pass on a regular basis. I felt that the wind and snow moving up the slope would create a visually compelling image and Rob Kingwill agreed to attempt it. After last year’s less-than-ideal snow year you really have to look at terrain differently and try to mix it up in order to create some fresh work. After “Kinger” dropped in and started his first turn, I knew we had something going. The slough he created was barreling him until he went for the air. The snow lifted into the air to create a natural filter over the sun and highlight Mother Nature’s delicate touch. Rob did the rest and we nailed a nice shot by thinking beyond the traditional point of view.” — Greg Von Doersten

Rob Kingwill

“This was one of those days where everything came came together like it is supposed to. The snow was good, the sun was out and I was with two of my good friends, GVD and Darrell Miller on Cody Peak doing what I love to do, slash powder and jump cliffs. On this line, the wind came up out of nowhere right as I was approaching the cliff. I was so completely blinded by snow that I had to guess when I should ‘Ollie’ the rocks at the edge. I had scoped the line well enough before I dropped in, so I knew I’d eventually find a clean landing. This image captures the moment of revelation, when I came out of that giant cloud of snow and could finally see again. Yeehaw!” — Rob Kingwill w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Rob Kingwill, Cody Peak, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, photo by Greg Von Doersten

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SKI TOWN JOBS

Photos by Wade McKoy

Being a passionate, accomplished skier & ‘boarder is a prerequisite for some resort-town jobs. For others, it’s the end to the means.

Steve Martin

Ski Instructor 30 years Jackson Hole skier 32 years

First JH winter memory — “So much snow, over 400 inches. Such a big mountain. So many great people. Some things don’t change.” Why bike in winter? — “I love biking, the feel of a bike, the way it stretches and loosens my legs and back, the strength it provides. Nothing is better than the path in front of you and a beer at the end. Let’s ride!”

Anna Cole

Communications Manager Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Jackson Hole skier 10 years

First JH winter memory — “Buying my first pair of powder skis, some used Seth Pistols. Looking back on it, they were in bad shape with crappy bindings, but I loved those skis, and skied them until they were noodles.” Insider’s tips — “For the best lift-ticket price go to jacksonhole.com and buy your RFID J Card online. Reload it online, too. No more ticket-window line! “Make a reservation at the Couloir for lunch for a relaxing break – you have to make a reservation, though, to avoid waiting for a table. “Ski the Hobacks from top to bottom, non-stop – it’ll make you appreciate the size of this mountain.”

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Mikey Franco, Mike Parris Ski and Snowboard Makers, Igneous Jackson Hole snowboarder 25 years; JH skier 16 years

First JH winter memory — “Before moving here, we came for spring break. Mott and I hiked up Teton Pass with RG. He was showing us our first little shack up on the Pass. I still remember that moment, surfin’ down to the shack and hanging out.” — Mikey Franco Insider’s Tip — “Be respectful. In Jackson, you don’t know who the hottest rider is ‘cause they’ll never tell you. We’re all here for the same reason – The Hill. We don’t have that competitive vibe that you get in some other places that have competing mountains.” — Mikey Franco About Igneous — “Igneous Skis are custom designed to address your riding style, strength, agility, purpose, and goals. This results in optimal performance, more precise control, increased endurance, and more fun. We make skis to make you a better skier.” — Mike Parris

Mike Webb

First JH winter memory — “The high quality of local skiers, how fast the tram could take you up 4,139 vertical, and how broke I was.” Insider’s tip — “Drink lots of water, look out for moose in the road, and don’t bother skiing Granite Canyon, because the skiing back there isn’t very good.”

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Bob Woodall photo

Housepainter (summer) Jackson Hole Ski Patrol (winter) Jackson Hole skier 21 years

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SKI TOWN JOBS Tram Jam Peter Chanman Chandler

Musician, band founder Jackson Hole skier 25 years

First JH winter memory — “I came, in 1978/79, thinking I was a pretty good skier. Skiing Jackson was a humbling experience, and I soon learned to respect, appreciate, and revere the mountain.” Insider’s Tips — “Enjoy the mountain. It’s a lot bigger than it looks from the parking lot. Take time to ride all the lifts, look at the terrain, and be amazed at the high level of riding all over the mountain.” About Tram Jam— “This year the Tram Jam band is celebrating 20 years of lift-line entertainment. We play at the Bridger Gondola every Saturday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. The music is family friendly and combines cover tunes by Bob Dylan, Bob Marley, Led Zeppelin, and Elvis Costello, with classic blues/jazz and mountain-town originals by Chanman. “Tram Jam began as a duo, then became a trio, then a quartet (playing original tunes recorded on Waist Deep), and has now grown to a six-member band. When the Gondola arrived, Tram Jam moved to its base there. “Skiing at a world-class area like Jackson Hole had been my dream since I was a kid. When the opportunity arose for music to support my skiing, it was too good to be true. It’s been great to see Tram Jam grow along with the resort as it celebrates the skiing lifestyle through song. We all love playing Tram Jam.”

Tram Jam, counterclockwise from bottom left: Peter Chandler (guitar, vocals); John Kidwell (trombone, vocals); Andy Peterson (drums, vocals); Jeff Eidemiller (guitar); John Clark (bass); Powell Miller (trumpet)

Dustin Varga

Jackson Hole snowboarder 24 years Pro rider from 1992-98 Musician, composer

First JH winter memory — “I remember being so excited about riding at the Village. And making my first real turns in Telemark Bowl. I worked for food service at the base of the tram. Steak-ride Steve gave me a job, an apartment, and a pass. So awesome.” Insider’s Tip — “Start easy on Après Vous to get acquainted with the terrain. Study the trail maps. Lend the mountain and the locals the respect they deserve.” About Dustin’s music — “I’ve been writing music most of my life and had my first band in ninth grade. From my music studio at home I create music for action sports films, commercials, and most film applications.”

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Ned Brown

Restaurateur, The Blue Lion Jackson Hole skier 35 years

First JH winter memory — “Corn skiing the Hobacks. The last couple weeks of the season they used to close the Hobacks and farm ‘em until the corn was prime. When the snow was ready, they’d only open them from 9 to 11 a.m. to preserve it. All the ‘boat people’ (B-Pass holders who stood in a separate standby-roomonly tram line) decided it was as smooth as a baby’s butt.” Insider’s Tips— “Hire someone to show you around the mountain, a guide to take you out the gates. Jackson Hole definitely has some of the best ski terrain found anywhere, that’s why I’m here. And for me, the Lower Faces make this mountain. They are mountains unto themselves, preserved by the lack of direct lift access. They are long, consistent, and exciting. You can’t beat the Hobacks on a good-quality snow day. “And, if you can afford it and the conditions are right while you’re here, spend a day heli-skiing. You’ll be glad you did. “And remember, enjoy a high-protein dinner to replenish those spent leg muscles for another day of skiing.”

Peter Stiegler

Restaurateur, Stiegler’s Restaurant & Copper Bar; Closet rock-and-roller Jackson Hole skier 37 years, 19 years a part-time ski instructor

First JH winter memory — “It was 1976/77. No snow. The ski area didn’t open until January. Thunder lift only. Downloading skiers on the Tram from Tower 3. It closed in March. But it was still a great year.” Insider’s Tip — “Experience dinner at Stiegler’s, a culinary way of life. The important things in life: skiing, eating, singing, all hopefully together with your children.”

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SKI TOWN JOBS Jess McMillan

Favorite childhood winter memory – “Skiing Snow King with two of my friends Walt Robertson and Ellen Sullivan. Our parents used Snow King as day care. Many afternoons we were the only humans on the hill. I remember loving riding up Exhibition, all three of us on one chair, and then ripping down thru Pickle. Yep, there’s a run called Pickle and the trees are spaced just wide enough for little kids’ race skis.” Insider’s Tip — “If you are going to go into the backcountry, hire a guide.” Favorite current memory — “My favorite trip was last spring filming Ticket To Ride, five weeks in Iceland, one of the most incredible, beautiful, amazing countries I’ve ever been to. I’m looking forward to spending more time at home, working on my life-list of Teton ski descents.”

Crystal Wright

Jackson Hole skier whole life (valley native) Personal Trainer, Owner – Wright Training; Pro freeride skier – 2012, 2009 Freeskiing World Tour Champion, 2008 U.S. Freeskiing Tour Champion

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Photo courtesy Jess McMillan

Jackson Hole skier whole life (valley native) Pro skier, eight years on Freeride circuit, won twice; fourth year as athlete filming with Warren Miller on exotic locations.

Favorite childhood winter memory —“I remember going up the tram when I was five and being way shorter than everybody. I remember skiing the bowl for the first time, I’d go straight and then crash. The powder was really deep and my parents had to help me up. Another memory I’ll never forget, I was 12. Jonathan Selkowitz, my coach, took us ski-club kids out of bounds, up on Cody. I remember watching Tommy Moe go into Once Is Enough, and I was like, ‘Oh, I want to do that someday.’ For us kids it was the coolest thing. We skied Four Shadows, but I don’t have any memory of it being steep or scary, just fun. Now I can’t imagine us 12-year-olds not being nervous on that steep run.” Insider’s Tip — “Get in shape before you come out here, because the runs are long. My ski fitness program is eight weeks long. But if you are already here, start off easy. Build your legs up on the lower part of the mountain, and work up. Don’t go straight to the top.” w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

AJ Cargill

Merchandise Manager & Buyer Teton Village Sports Jackson Hole skier 18 years

First JH winter memory —“It dumped every single night in December. I kept finding myself making hot laps on AV with Doug and Emily Coombs. I felt like I’d landed in skiing Nirvana. Working on the race crew was a blast and there were so many hot guys everywhere I went.” Insider’s Tip — “Hire an instructor or a guide to show you the best lines and how to navigate this huge playground in the Tetons. And know that this is a friendly place; it’s only as intimidating as you make it.”

Gov Carrigan

Co-creator and Operations Manager Pepi Stiegler Sports Jackson Hole skier 24 years

First JH winter memory — “My first time to Corbet’s. It looked closed, so I went through the ropes, just to take a peek. As soon as my skis stopped at the edge, a ski patroller in full uniform and a strong Scottish accent turned to me and exclaimed, ‘Well, lad, did you come here to jump in or are you just going to stand there looking at it?’ It was Callum Mackay, of course, and his statement was so strong and unexpected that I jumped in as fast as I possibly could and promptly blew up. Laughing, he yelled back down the couloir, ‘Nice one, lad, see you next time.’” Insider’s Tip — “Ski the whole mountain. Don’t get stuck in one area. Our mountain has an incredible variety of terrain and conditions. Ski a Kastle today and find out for yourself what the buzz is all about.”

Walter Berling

Special Ed teacher 34 years Former head Nordic coach at Jackson Hole High School 28 years Jackson Hole skier since 1976

First JH winter memory —“I moved here as a typical ski bum, and it was a drought year to beat all droughts – and with no snow-making. But since it was my first year here, I didn’t care. My best friends still are ones I met that year. I worked at the Alpenhof as a maintenance man. I traded living in an apartment in town for living in a cabin at the White Grass Ranch. We were so poor we would ski in from White Grass and then ski all day at the Village. Some nights I would sleep in maid closets at the Alpenhof. After growing up in Seattle, I was in heaven.” Why I bike — “My passion is cycling. I bike-commute to school (I don’t ride some days in mid-winter with bad conditions on the highway and the bridge). Last year I rode 150 of 185 teacher days. I teach special ed., and at the end of the day I often wonder if I should laugh or cry. Cycling clears my brain.”

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SKI TOWN JOBS Holly Fuller

Hair Stylist Jackson Hole skier 35 years

First JH winter memory — “I moved to Jackson in 1978 and it was the coldest temperature recorded thus far: -63 F. The ski area was closed for a week. Nothing was open except the bars. Cars wouldn’t start. The electricity kept going out. When we walked into the Cowboy Bar, a snake-like tongue of frost rushed in with us. Spit froze before it could hit the ground. It was wicked bitter cold. Insider’s Tip — “Haircuts help hat-head.”

Patrick Nelson Jeff Brines

Co-founders: Earlyups, an online ski magazine. “We both have ‘real jobs’ too.” Jackson Hole skiers since 2007

First JH winter memory — “How endless it was. It was 2007/08 and it snowed over 600". It felt like living in a snow globe all the way through mid-June.” Insiders’ Tip — “Keep your eyes on the snow the night before. Sometimes those 4-inch days with a little bit of wind deliver skiing that is just as good as the 12-inch day. We’ve developed a live, snow-reporting tool called ‘Real Time Snow’ – to have a better idea when those sleeper days are shaping up. Even if it’s 11 p.m.” About Earlyups — “It’s an online ski magazine showcasing the sport’s latest photo and video content, updated daily. ‘Real Time Snow’ updates snowfall and weather by the hour.”

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Susan Hedden

Ski instructor (winter) Wrangler (summer) Jackson Hole skier since 1979 Wrangler since 1986.

First JH winter memory — “I remember the really great terrain. Every day was new and exciting! I haven’t missed a winter or a summer season yet – two great seasons with two amazing jobs. I enjoy experiencing both seasons’ rewards and beauty and sharing my love of skiing and horses with guests.” Insider’s Tip — “Check out the ski area’s website, www.jacksonhole.com, and pick up the Jackson Hole Skier and the summer Adventure Guide. The guest service center at Teton Village has a well-informed, friendly staff that will be happy to help you maximize your vacation time fun.”

Bill Lewkowitz

Business Development Director Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Jackson Hole skier 33 years 30 as a JHMR employee

First JH winter memory — “My first winter was 1981/82 and all I remember is snow. I think we got close to 600 inches that year after a drought the year before.” Insider’s Tip — “Get up early and be on the first tram, gondola, or chair to get the best snow, for powder and groomers. Know which slopes face north and which face south/southeast. Realize this is a big mountain and conditions often change with elevation, slope aspect, and time of year. As for the backcountry – if you don’t know, don’t go. Hire a guide. And, most important of all, be safe and have fun!” w w w. j h s k i e r. n e t

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SKI TOWN JOBS

Diane Benefiel

Artist, bookkeeper, and 26 years co-owner with husband Keith of The Chimney Sweeps Jackson Hole skier since February, 1977

First JH winter memory — “First time was on the Pass, about a week after I moved here. I wore wooden skis (no edges) with 3-pin bindings, bamboo poles, and, most notably, cotton jeans. After surviving a wild ride down Black Canyon I was borderline hypothermic, but couldn’t wait to ski again.” Insider’s Tip — “Be prepared. Even back in 1977, my pack contained water, food, wax, a scraper, and cork. I quickly upgraded my skiwear from cotton to wool; knickers, knee-socks, Dachstein mittens, a heavy wool sweater, and hat. Also, to avoid the parking fiasco, hitch-hike up – it’s legal now!” About Diane’s art — “Keith asked if I would paint a Teton Pass poster. We decided to go big and with the help of Asymbol Imaging produced limited edition 18 x 24 prints for Christmas gifts. They took off like gang busters, sold out in a couple weeks. Last fall came a second poster, ‘Edelweiss,’ that sold out as well. The images touch a chord, what it felt like to ski the Pass in the early days. A second printing, in stores this winter, is a smaller version of them. Next up, another Teton Pass poster, featuring Glory Bowl.”

Mike Tierney

Painter Jackson Hole skier since '97

First JH winter memory — “Seeing Cody for the first time! It was like a magnet. The o.b. was totally untracked...even Four Pines! I went straight up Cody and down Central (alone). Then boosted No-name’s iconic cliffs. I was sold on skiing in Jackson Hole. Mad amounts of terrain.” Insider’s Tip — “Enjoy your trip! Don’t drink and drive. Watch out for the wildlife. And, of course, buy some of my art, please!” About Mike’s paintings — “I’m a painter. I have painted everything from your house to your Ferrari. I focus on the artistic side of the paint spectrum these days, but also have a solid foundation in constructiontype paintwork. Lately I have been working with stencil techniques to do paintings that capture the alluring beauty of our mountains, trying to get the people who appreciate the power of our mountains to also connect on an artistic level. Our mountains are badass!”

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Kelly Halpin

Freelance Illustrator Native Born JH Snowboarder since teens Childhood memory — “When I was in girl's boarding school, my friends and I used to go on school trips to this crappy little hill on the East Coast to ride blue ice. I can't say the snowboarding itself was that great, but we had a blast nonetheless falling on our faces, trying to ride the awful half pipe, and playing the most ridiculous pranks on the other girls at night. Good times on bad snow!” Insider’s Tip — “Wear a helmet and support local art.” About Kelly’s Art — “I love to tell stories. Every illustration I create is a piece of a story, whether it's obvious to the viewer or not. Each character, creature, and bit of landscape has a personality and tale to tell. If you listen carefully and use your imagination, you might just be able to hear it!”

Rick Armstrong Art Gallery Owner Photographer Jackson Hole skier since 1989

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First JH winter memory — “Standing on top of Corbett’s. The anxiety.” Insider’s Tip – “Take a clear day or evening and ski Snow King for a few hours. You get amazing Teton views while skiing great intermediate and advanced terrain. Follow that up with dinner in town.” About Rick’s photography — “My current show is about the relationship between man and animal and it asked the question, “Who’s the Beast?” I call it “conceptual.” I tell a story and let the viewer decide what they think about it. Everybody has a relationship with animals. When you look at these things, you have to come up with your own story, your own concept about what it is. I don’t care if people like or dislike them, but I do care that it provokes thought. I want them to look at my imagery and know that there is more than just a camera and a click of a button. There’s a thought. There’s a process.” 2 0 1 4 J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R

SKI TOWN GUARDIANS

Christian Beckwith SHIFT CO-FOUNDER

Christian Beckwith in The Rapture, Prospectors Mountain, Grand Teton National Park Photo by Jarad Spackman

Dedication

“Jarad Spackman took this

photo of me on our last great first descent on Prospectors Mountain. We had skied

several new routes already this season, opening up

three or four new lines. We called this new route The Rapture.

“Two weeks after this shot

was taken we got hit by the

avalanche that killed Jarad. SHIFT is very much about Jarad and the promise I

made – that I wouldn’t work on anything, anymore, that didn’t have meaning.”

— Christian Beckwith

ast spring, entrepreneur and publisher Christian “And it’s also what we have to do – shift our behavior, Beckwith was selected by Jackson Hole’s Travel shift our perspective, shift parts of our culture.” and Tourism Board to create a tourism-boosting event A future goal for SHIFT – and one that potentially for October, an otherwise slow month. The theme: gets “heads in beds,” an important consideration for Conservation. Beckwith’s employer – involves eco-travel communi“I’ve never considered myself a traditional conserties nationwide. vationist,” he said, “and I’m not approaching conser“Our team has identified 48 peer communities that, vation in a traditional way.” like Jackson, rely upon their natural capital for their Beckwith does know something about creating livelihoods,” he said. “Some have hatched innovative events, though. As publisher of the digital magazine programs and we’d like them to come to next year’s Outerlocal he created a new sporting competition in SHIFT and share those ideas and initiatives.” Jackson two years ago, the Last fall’s three-day inaugural Outerlocal Summer Games, SHIFT event featured locally A future goal for SHIFT – and an instant success. grown food, conservation-minded But this new event, called adventure films, slide shows, and one that potentially gets SHIFT, would have to rise to speakers. a higher calling – Beckwith, Nearly 1,000 people attended “heads in beds,” an important like many a concerned citithe debut event, which included a consideration for Beckwith’s zen, feels the pull of our natcommunity-wide cleanup and a ural world in peril. concert featuring Dan Deacon. employer – involves eco-travel “We live in such incredible For Beckwith, though, the eleproximity to nature, we see ment closest to his heart will alcommunities nationwide. when it gets disrupted,” he ways be found in the intersection said. “We understand when of conservation and adventure. we are part of the reason. That, in turn, gives us a “The adventure athlete needs to take a leading role great opportunity to talk about it from a position of in preservation,” Beckwith said. “POW, Protect Our authenticity.” Winters, has done a great job with this concept.” One of SHIFT’s goal is to create strategic alliances Beckwith took another cue from the hunting and within the greater Jackson community. fishing industries. “There’re a lot of organizations here committed to “The conservation work by hunters and fishermen sustainability. We need to crowd-source solutions,” he sets the bar,” he said. “How do climbers and skiers said. “If you just had a film festival you’d green-wash become similarly engaged in the stewardship of the it and it wouldn’t make any difference. But if we come places we love to play?” up with solutions that address the root causes of the For Beckwith, SHIFT is the next chapter. And it imbalance, then you can say to your kids, ‘We did draws its strength from the power of the Jackson Hole something.’” community, a place he is honored to call his home. The first puzzle to solve: find a catchy title. “I hold my daughter in my arms and look up at the “SHIFT” emerged from a brainstorming session with dying trees and ask myself ‘What can I do?’ SHIFT is local artist and entrepreneur Travis Walker. the answer.” “The word jumped out at us both. It’s connected to — Jackson Hole Skier Jackson because of plate tectonics,” said Beckwith.

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David Gonzales

TREEFIGHT CO-FOUNDER

Photos: Wade McKoy

TreeFight co-founder David Gonzales stands near a beetle-killed limber pine on Crystal Butte in Jackson.

iking up the valley’s Crystal Butte to photograph a through these scant five years. beetle-killed limber pine, Treefight co-founder “We planted trees, put pheromone patches on trees,” David Gonzales sang the dead tree’s praises. he said. “Patches work, and we should continue that at “These are the oldest, longest-living trees in North ski resorts, but I don’t know if it makes sense to protect America,” he said of the five-needle pine species. “They trees out in the wilderness. Planting trees make sense, found a bristle cone in California that’s 5,065 years old. but it’s almost too little, too late. The cones don’t produce And it’s alive!” seeds until the tree is 70 years old, so what’s going to Gonzales’s mission – save the whitebark pine from exhappen here in the meantime?” tinction – began in 2009 when he noticed the Jackson reTreefight’s initial, idealistic goal – to protect trees from gion’s wholesale loss of these high-altitude, these beetles – has changed. environmentally crucial trees. “Now I understand that what’s really killing these trees His concern quickly led him to Dr. Jesse Logan, an enis the changes to the atmosphere brought about by our tomologist whose overzealous use of fossil fuels,” Gonzales’s mission – save the whitebark 1980s’ research in he said. Montana and Idaho “The hope and the action to pine from extinction – began in 2009 when showed that beetle me is in education, because productivity, activity, the people who are going to be he noticed the Jackson region’s wholesale and reproduction coraddressing this problem are loss of these high-altitude, environmentally responded to small those who are 10-to-20-years gradations in temperold now. The best thing we can crucial trees. “What’s inherent in all these ature. In 1990, when do is to show students what’s the Intergovernmental going on in the natural world, relationships is the natural intelligence of Panel on Climate show them what changes are this ecosystem, accumulated for millions Change published a actually taking place. report that predicted “We’re using this cool proof years – as long as there has been life.” a rise in future temgram on Smartphones to shoot peratures. “Dr. Logan spherical panoramas in the compared their temperature models to his research and woods. We can build time-lapses of different places in difpredicted that the whitebark pine would get hammered by ferent forests, get people engaged in looking at what’s beetles,” said Gonzales. happening on the ground. We can cultivate a new para“He was ridiculed by colleagues and actually repridigm – we should all be personally responsible for our manded by his superiors for wasting resources to study own energy use. How it’s made, how we use it, how we this. Now, 20 years later, most of the mature whitebark store it. That means the energy in our cars, the energy are dead. that we eat, the energy we use for everything. Our entire “These trees are national treasures, given their imporlives. tance to Yellowstone, the world’s first national park, and “The first step in that difficult, long, and potentially imto the grizzly, our most famous, largest predator. What’s possible process is collecting the evidence of these inherent in all these relationships is the natural intelligence changes, like what Dr. Logan did. I look around and this is of this ecosystem, accumulated for millions of years – as evidence to me. I’ve gone through that process. We need long as there has been life.” to get other people to go through that process, too.” TreeFight’s battle has shifted as Gonzales has worked — Jackson Hole Skier w w w. j h s k i e r. n e t

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Bob Woodall photos

DIVERSIONS

by Mike Calabrese

National Elk Refuge – Of-

might say. Clear days and light winds in our valley help set the stage for another equally astonishing view of Jackson Hole—from a paraglider! And the experts at Jackson Hole Paragliding take full advantage of these climatic conditions. They’ll happily help launch novices and veterans alike over the valley in tandem paragliding flights that lift off from the top of the resort’s Bridger Gondola. This breathtaking experience requires no athletic ability and the experienced pilots with Jackson Hole Paragliding can even help those a bit daunted by heights. Or, for a fresh take on over-snow travel, try your hand at snow kiting. Call 307-690-8726 or visit jhparagliding.com. Very cool photos on the Website, too!

ficially it exists as a refuge for elk. But time and circumstance now force these majestic ungulates to share that winter range with bighorn sheep, bison, mule deer, and yes, Virginia, sometimes wolves and mountain lions. Even grizzlies have been spotted crossing its scenic expanse. Set between the Teton and Gros Ventre mountain ranges, the National Elk Refuge rubs up against the town of Jackson, affording visitors the chance to mingle with wildlife – unimpeded by zoo bars or cages. And running quietly through that high-altitude savannah is one of the country’s most famous trout streams, Flat Creek. You can Ice skating rink on the Town Square look, but don’t unholster that rod until late summer. For the latest on the refuge, visit www.fws. gov/nationalelkrefuge.

Ice Skating –The local Parks and Recreation organization sets up and maintains four local rinks around the valley. A perfect activity for families looking to enjoy relaxing exercise. For rink locations, hours, and restrictions, visit www.tetonparksandrec.org.

step or cowboy waltz at the Cowboy Bar on Thursday evenings between 7-9 p.m. The Cowboy and the Dancers’ Workshop Country Western Dance Program sponsor free instruction to anyone showing up before the band hits the stage.

play full-check hockey in the Elite Senior A division of the USA Hockey Association. Grab all the home action Friday and Saturday nights at Snow King Sports and Events Center. $8 for adults and $3 for children. Visit the Moose online at jacksonholemoose.com.

Western Dancing – Restless legs? Put ‘em to good use with a twoParagliding – Kites-R-Fun, as the staff at Jackson Hole Paragliding 86

Elk Refuge Seigh Rides

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Hockey – “Go Moose!” is the battle cry for the Jackson Hole Moose, who Recreation Center – Of course we have heated indoor-recreation out-

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The torchlight parade descends Apres Vous, fireworks explode over Teton Village, and groomers work the slopes. Torchlight Parades light up the slopes at Grand Targhee, Snow King, and Jackson Hole on Christmas Eve or New Year’s Day.

DIVERSIONS

WATCH OR BE WATCHED IN A VARIETY OF WINTER FESTIVALS THAT PUSH

Bob Woodall photos

EVERYONE’S ADRENALIN INTO THE FUN SPHERE.

Dick’s Ditch at Jackson Hole Resort pits snowboarders and skiers against the mighty gully that runs from the Headwall to the Village.

tory crowd during President’s Day Weekend. Now in it’s 43rd year, it’s slated for February 15 and 16, 2014. Teams run two abreast in a 1/4-mile sprint to the finish at the polo grounds south of Jackson. Competitors are auctioned in a Calcutta wager before each heat, so high stakes and excitement mark this celebration, which raises money for the Shriners’ philanthropic mission. Call 307-690-4669, go online at jhshriners.org, or find the outfit on Facebook.

Shriners’ Jackson Hole Ski-Joring championships – If the cutter races ignited a fever for horses, racing, and snow, or if you missed all the fun, the Shriners’ Jackson Hole Ski-Joring championships run on the following weekend, February 22 and 23, 2014. Not to be outdone by horse-drawn charioteers, skiers trust their skills and reins to cowpokes and their steeds while barreling along the track. Thundering hooves, blazing speeds, and air time off jumps guarantee thrills for all. Watch the excitement near Victor, Idaho, Jan. 18-19. Ski joring began several hundred years ago in Scandinavia as a way to travel during the long winter months.

The Int. Pedigree Stage Stop Sled Dog Race draws famed mushers.

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Triple Crown pursuits – Watch or be watched in these winter festivals that push everyone’s adrenalin into the fun sphere: The Moose Chase on Saturday, February 15, 2014, at Trail Creek at the base of Teton Pass; The Town Downhill on Snow King Mountain, March 1-2, 2014; and the big daddy of them all, the Pole Pedal Paddle, slated for Saturday, March 29, 2014, at Teton Village, along Wyoming highways 22 and 26, and on the Snake River, from South Park to Astoria. All events sponsored w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Snowmobiling

Bob Woodall photos

Into the great white open

Riding powder in Granite Creek, a favorite among snowmobile aficionados and newcomers alike.

n most places, winter is tolerated, not embraced. But this is snow country! With so much of the white stuff carpeting Wyoming’s mountains each winter, learning to love it is a necessity. And a great way to appreciate this plush ermine mantle is astride a snowmobile. So saddle up and head into the great white open. Northwest Wyoming straddles the stunning Continental Divide and is blessed with some of the best snowmobile landscapes available in the world, a veritable winter playground for snowmobile enthusiasts. Snowmobiles provide quick access to even the deepest reaches of the winter backcountry. Within minutes you can be far from the highway and immersed in the Rocky Mountains’ winter beauty. Wondering if you can ride a snowmobile? Well, if you can drive an automobile and you have an opposable thumb and forefinger, you should be able to course down a groomed trail to, say, Old Faithful Geyser. You control the throttle with your right hand and the brake with your left hand. It may take a few miles to get the feel of the trail, but most riders can master the basics quickly. Riding off-trail, though, will require a bit more experience. Off-trail snowmobiling – prohibited in national parks – is a skill-intensive sport. And just as driving a car down the road doesn’t qualify one to race in the Monte Carlo Grand Prix, steering a snow-

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Colorful hot springs, the wonder of Yellowstone

mobile along groomed trails is vastly different from finessing it through woodlands and powder fields at breakneck speeds. If you’ve never snowmobiled before, consider a tour company. They provide transportation right from your lodging and supply the warm clothes and helments needed for a comfortable experience. The guides, trained in snowmobile and winter safety, also have a handle on the area’s flora, fauna, and history. Unguided rental excursions, though, are a great way to see the country at one’s own pace. But be sure to be prepared for severe winter conditions. Know where you are going, and never head into the backcountry alone! Modern machines have evolved into a whole new beast from those of just 10 years w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m