Food Drink Magazine Issue 9 April 2021 by Food Drink Magazine

FOOD DRINK &

MAGAZINE

FRENCH VINTAGE 2021 HIT BY FROST CALIFORNIA WINES &WINERIES DOMAINE TRELOAR

VINEYARDS AND WINERIES

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NOVEMB ER 2020 April 2021

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TOP 10 Wine Producing Countries

MAGAZINE

TOP 10

EDITOR AND PUBLISHING

Countries by Vineyard

DIRECTOR

Surface Area

Hakan KESKIN admin@fooddrinkmagazine.com

TOP 10

ADVERTISING AND MARKETING

Wine Consuming

COORDINATOR

Countries

Gizem gizem@fooddrinkmagazine.com

AUTHORS Liam GRAYSON Davis WINTERIDGE Daphne REZNIK Zakari UMAR

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12 2020 WINE

PRODUCTION

Collioure and Banyuls Sur Mer

CONTENTS

CALIFORNIA WINES &WINERIES

50 Domaine Treloar

54 FRENCH

VINTAGE 2021 HIT BY FROST

WASHINGTON STATE WINES

OREGON WINES

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TOP 10 Wine Producing Countries

World wine production, excluding juices and musts, in 2019 is estimated at 260 mhl ( million hectoliters ) The top 10 countries that produce the most wine in the world ( 2019) are as follows: PRODUCTION

ITALY

% WORLD

47.5 mhl

18.3%

FRANCE

42.1 mhl

16.2%

SPAIN

33.5 mhl

12.9%

USA

21.7 mhl

9.4%

ARGENTINA

13.0 mhl

5.0%

AUSTRALIA

12.0 mhl

4.6%

CHILE

11.9 mhl

4.6%

S.AFRICA

9.7 mhl

3.7%

GERMANY

9.0 mhl

3.5%

CHINA MAINLAND

8.3 mhl

3.2%

SOURCE: OIV State of the World Vitivinicultural Sector in 2019 sector-in-2019.pdf

https://www.oiv.int/public/medias/7298/oiv-state-of-the-vitivinicultural-

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TOP 10 Countries by Vineyard Surface Area

In 2019 the world area under vines, corresponding to the total surface area planted with vines for all purposes (wine, table grapes and raisins), including young vines not yet in production, is estimated at 7.4 mha. The top 10 countries by Vineyard Surface Area (2019) are as follows: VINEYARD SURFACE AREA

% WORLD

SPAIN

966 kha

13.1%

CHINA

855 kha

11.5%

FRANCE

794 kha

10.7%

ITALY

708 kha

9.6%

TURKEY

436 kha

5.9%

USA

408 kha

5.5%

ARGENTINA

215 kha

2.9%

CHILE

200 kha

2.7%

GERMANY

195 kha

2.6%

ROMANIA

191 kha

2.6%

SOURCE: OIV State of the World Vitivinicultural Sector in 2019 sector-in-2019.pdf

https://www.oiv.int/public/medias/7298/oiv-state-of-the-vitivinicultural-

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TOP 10 Wine Consuming Countries

World wine consumption in 2019 is estimated at 244 mhl. The top 10 wine consuming countries (2019) are as follows:

COMSUMPTION

% WORLD

USA

33.0 mhl

FRANCE

26.5 mhl

11%

ITALY

22.6 mhl

GERMANY

20.4 mhl

CHINA MAINLAND

17.8 mhl

13.0 mhl

SPAIN

11.1 mhl

RUSSIA

10.0 mhl

ARGENTINA

8.5 mhl

AUSTRALIA

5.9 mhl

SOURCE: OIV State of the World Vitivinicultural Sector in 2019 sector-in-2019.pdf

13%

https://www.oiv.int/public/medias/7298/oiv-state-of-the-vitivinicultural-

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2020 WINE PRODUCTION

fter the exceptionally high production of 2018, for the second consecutive year, the world wine production volume is expected to be below average.

• Lower than average production volume in the EU, where measures to reduce the harvest volume had a significant impact in Italy, France and Spain not with standing the overall favourable climatic conditions. • First harvest forecasts in the US indicate volumes in line with 2019,but uncertainty caused by wildfires might lead to further revisions. • Drop of South America’s wine production, especially in Argentina and Chile due to unfavourable weather conditions. • South Africa finally back to “normality” after several years of drought. • Australia records a low harvest due to bushfires while New Zealand shows a record harvest volume in 2020.

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World production Based on information collected on 30 countries, which represent 84% of the world production in 2019, 2020 world wine production (excluding juices and musts) is estimated between 253.9 and 262.2 mhl, with a mid‐range estimate at 258 mhl. The 2020 production seems in line with the previous year: +1% compared to 2019. After the exceptionally high production of 2018, first estimates on 2020 show for the second consecutive year a production volume that can be defined as below average. This is not necessarily to be considered as bad news for the wine sector given the current context where geopolitical tensions, climate change and covid-19 pandemic are generating a high degree of volatility and uncertainty in the global wine market.

Northern hemisphere

The harvest in the Northern Hemisphere takes place normally between August and October. As for the 2020 harvests, they were not strongly affected by lockdown measures to mitigate the Covid-19 pandemic, in contrast with the vine cultivation period in springtime (April to July).

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European Union In the European Union (EU), good weather conditions favoured a potentially large 2020 harvest; albeit, that has been limited by different measures at both, the government and producers’ association levels aiming at mitigating the (direct and indirect) negative impacts of the Covid-19 pandemic on the global wine market. The production volume this year is estimated at 159.0 mhl (excluding juices and musts), about 5% more than in 2019. This volume shows an annual increase of 7 mhl compared with 2019. Overall preliminary estimates for 2020 wine production in EU countries indicate a much more heterogenous situation compared with the previous years. An example is given by the three largest producing countries where, with respect to 2019, there is a drop of -1% in Italy (47.2 mhl), a slight increase of 4% in France (43.9 mhl) and a large rise of more than 11% in Spain (37.5 mhl). It should be noted however, that all three countries, which together account for 49% of the world wine production and 81% of the EU wine production, show preliminary levels of production for 2020 that are lower or just below their last five-year averages. This is the result of a combination of overall favourable weather conditions during spring and summer and the application of regulation measures. The EU wine Common Market Organisation provides subsidies to regulate volumes, such as green grape harvesting aids. Also, in certain Italian, French and Spanish regions, wine makers decided to fix the vinified volumes at a level inferior to that of 2019 because of the drop in demand on the global wine market. A positive growth with respect to 2019 is recorded also in other large EU wine producing countries such as Germany (8.9 mhl, +8%/2019), Hungary (2.9 mhl, +22%/2019) and Austria (2.7 mhl, +10%/2019). These show production levels that are in line or even above their last five-year averages.

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Portugal, with 6.5 mhl in 2020, is in line with its 2019 production and with its last five-year average, while countries such as Romania (3.6 mhl) and Greece (2 mhl) show a negative variation with respect to both 2019 (-7% and -2% respectively) and their last fiveyear averages (-12% and -17% respectively).

Outside EU In the Northern Hemisphere outside the EU, the 2020 wine production is high in countries like Russia (4.7 mhl, +2%/2019) and Ukraine (1.0 mhl, +1%/2019), while Georgia and Moldova (undergoing drought) have recorded a contraction in production with 1.7 mhl (-3%/2019) and 1.2 mhl (-18%/2019) respectively. Wine production volume in Switzerland in 2020 (0.9 mhl) is expected to be not only smaller than last year (-10%/2019), but also 8% smaller than the average observed over the last five-year period. In the USA, the preliminary estimate for wine production is at 24.7 mhl (+1%/2019).This figure is based on USDA forecasts on the wine-grape harvest, but this figure could be significantly revised in the coming months when more information on the real effects of the wildfires in Napa and Sonoma will be available, since, complications from fire and smoke taint may prevent part of the grapes from being vinified. Furthermore, the oversupply issue that characterised the last few years might also play a role in wine production decisions. At this time of the year, data on grapes harvest in China is not available. However, wine production is likely to continue the contraction that started in 2016 for structural reasons outlined in the OIV report on the state of the vitivinicultutral sector published in April 2020.

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Southern hemisphere In the Southern hemisphere, where harvests ended in the first trimester of 2020, preliminary figures on wine production tend to be more accurate and reliable in this period of the year. Regarding volumes, a strong decline in wine production is recorded among major producing countries, with a few exceptions. It is worth mentioning that the Covid-19 pand mic spread during the harvesting season, even though this difficulty does not seem to have impacted much, the volumes of production. However, due to unfavourable climatic conditions, the production estimate for 2020 is 49 mhl, which is -8% with respect to 2019. South America is the region in the Southern Hemisphere that registers a sharper decrease with respect to the production level of 2019. In Argentina, 2020 wine production drops significantly to 10.8 mhl (-17%/2019) due to the unfavourable weather onditions caused by El Niño. Chile, with 10.3 mhl, records a 13% decline with respect to 2019 mainly due to drought. Both countries show production levels that are well below their last five-year average, with -13% and -10% respectively. Brazil has an estimated wine production volume of 2.2 mhl in line with last year a level that is 15% lower than its five-year average. In South Africa, where drought significantly impacted harvests in 2018 and 2019, wine production in 2020 is estimated at 10.4 mhl, thus, levelling up, back to normality. In Oceania, Australia registers a strong decline in wine production volume in 2020, at 10.6 mhl (-11% compared to 2019 and -16% with respect to its last five-year average). This can be partly explained by a combination of factors that reduced the production volume: the drought reduced the yields, bushfires took place during the harvesting season, and some of the grapes were particularly affected by smoke taint. In New Zealand, wine production shows an opposite trend with respect to Australia and for the fourth year in its history produces more than 3 mhl, precisely 3.3 mhl in 2020 (+11%/2019 and +15% compared to its last five years’ average). SOURCE: OIV The OIV is the intergovernmental organisation of a scientific and technical nature of recognised competence for its work concerning vines, wine, wine-based beverages, table grapes, raisins and other vine-based products.

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Collioure and Banyuls Sur Mer

DAVE WINTERIDGE

Down in the very far South of France, a stone’s throw from the Spanish border, is a small region known as the Cote Vermeille. Sitting right on the edge of the Mediterranean at the foot of the Pyrenees there are some well known coastal towns down here - Port Vendres for fish, Collioure, former residents include Picasso and Matisse, and Banyuls Sur Mer which produces a fortified aperitif and dessert wine. In fact, wine is big news in the area with vineyards across the four communes of Port Vendres, Cerbere, Collioure and Banyuls but DAVE WINTERIDGE there is a good chance you have never heard of them.

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This is not Bordeaux or Burgundy with its famous Chateaux and Appellations but Banyuls has been producing its unique sweet wine since the middle ages and exporting it, primarily to America, since the nineteenth century. Collioure is much more recent, having only gained recognition for its red wines in 1971 and white wines as late as 2003. The two towns as wine growing areas are now inextricably linked. One of the factors that makes wines interesting from this particular area is the terrain, or more accurately in the French “Terroir”. In this corner of the south -eastern Pyrenees the mountains literally descend into the Mediterranean, so the vines are grown on steep slopes with fairly rocky, poor soil. To counteract the steepness you will see vines set on “terraces”, man-made flat areas to give extra room for the cultivation of the vines. Grape vines actually thrive in harsh conditions, whether it be the soil or the climate, and need to work hard in order to produce a decent crop. fooddrinkmagazine.com

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There is also a unique climate in this region. Summers are traditionally dry and hot and winters are mild with limited rainfall. It is one of the warmest and driest wine regions of France. The majority of rainfall is in early spring and September. At the end of the summer as cooler air from the mountains collides with the warm Mediterranean air it causes some dramatic storms with torrential rainfall. The Spanish have a saying for this weather condition along the Mediterranean coast - “La Gota Fria”. The other contributing weather factor is the wind. Known as “La Tramontane”, the wind which blows down from the mountains sometimes with speeds in excess of 100km/h, it keeps the vines and grapes free from mildew because they are in constant contact with the humid sea air. La Tramontane will blow for either 3,6 or 9 days at a time.

The Grapes and Wines In Banyuls and Collioure the main grape varieties that you will see are black, grey and white grenache, muscat, macabeo and malvoisie. There are additional varieties grown here such as mourvedre, syrah and carignan which are blended to create a unique flavour. Banyuls is a fortified wine so has had alcohol added by means of a neutral grape-based spirit in a process known as “Mutage”. It is similar to the production of Port but Banyuls has a lower alcohol content at only 16%. Banyuls is mainly produced as a red wine but is also available as a white. The wine is then aged either in oak barrels or, more traditionally, in glass demi-johns.

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The glass containers are placed outdoors so that the wine is exposed to the sun and the changes in temperatures for a period of 30 months, helping it to develop its characteristics. Wine aged in barrels will have a different colour and taste depending on the age of the barrel and the time that the wine spends in it. Banyuls “Grand Cru” are aged in oak for at least two and half years. The flavour of Banyuls is often described as being “nutty” and certainly “raisiny” which is understandable as to create that sweetness the grapes are left on the vine until they are virtually shrivelled up like raisins. Try Banyuls with foie gras, duck, cherries or chocolate. In Collioure although they are using the same grape varieties grown across the same vineyards an entirely different wine is produced. The wines tend to be dry and powerful with a strong fruity character. The white wines, which were permitted to be produced in 2003, are made almost exclusively from grenache blanc and grenache gris are full bodied and highly perfumed. 26

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Red Collioure is also a powerful wine with plenty of fruit and spice flavours. It is made using the unwanted grapes from Banyuls (grenache) and blended with mourvedre and carignan. The quality of wines produced from Collioure has gradually improved with the implementation of better wine-making processes and the permitted introduction of grape varieties like mourvedre and syrah. Previously Banyuls had the prestige and the “pick” of the best grapes with the unwanted grapes being used to make Collioure. This region in the extreme south-east of France with its proximity to the Spanish border is a popular tourist location. Soak-up the culture which is a blend of French, Spanish and,above all, Catalan and perhaps try some Sardane dancing. There are plenty of activities and places to explore as well as just touring along the coast road, admiring the views and sampling a “degustation” at a local winery.

CALIFORNIA WINES &WINERIES Photo Credit:California Wine Institute

CALIFORNIA WINE PROFILE 2021

INDUSTRY OVERVIEW

"California is America’s number one wine state and the fourth largest producer in the world. California wine makes a significant contribution to the nation and all fifty states by providing quality jobs, bolstering economies through hospitality, taxes and tourism and enhancing communities through environmental stewardship." Economic Impact of California Wine on the California Economy Employs 786,000 Americans Generates $114 BILLION in annual economic activity Pays $15.2 BILLION in taxes Pays $34.9 BILLION in wages annually Economic Impact of California Wine on the U.S. Economy Employs 325,000 Californians Generates $57.6 BILLION in annual economic activity Pays $7.6 BILLION in taxes Pays $17.2 BILLION in wages annually Attracts 23.6 MILLION tourist visits to California wineries each year. Generates $7.2 BILLION in annual tourism expenditures

America’s top wine producer California makes 81% of all U.S. wine and is the world’s 4th leading wine producer. 4,200 bonded wineries Mainly family-owned businesses, many multigenerational. Number excludes second tasting rooms and non-production bonded wine premises. 242 million cases California wine sales volume into the U.S. market. $43.6 billion retail value Estimated retail value of California wine sales in the U.S. 60% share of U.S. market by volume Three of every five bottles sold in the U.S. is a California wine. $1.36 billion in export revenue U.S. wine exports, 95% from California. California exports 41 million nine-liter cases to 142 countries. 5,900 winegrape growers Our partners in sustainable winegrowing. 635,000 acres/256,975 hectares of winegrapes Winegrapes are grown in 49 of 58 counties in California; 141 federally approved American Viticultural Areas. 3.92 million tons/3.56 million tonnes harvested of winegrapes More than 110 winegrape varieties. $3.24 billion in farmgate value to growers Farmgate value of California winegrapes; one of California’s top three agricultural commodities by value.

Photo Credit:Washington State Wine courtesy of Andréa Johnson Photography.

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CALIFORNIA WINEGROWING REGIONS

NORTH COAST

CENTRAL COAST

INLAND VALLEYS

NAPA VALLEY California classic SONOMA COUNTY Casual elegance MENDOCINO COUNTY Quiet majesty LAKE COUNTY Lakeside vines LOS CARNEROS Where napa and sonoma meet

SIERRA FOOTHILLS

AMADOR COUNTY gold country EL DORADO COUNTY wild west towns CALAVERAS COUNTY mark twain’s muse NEVADA COUNTY gateway to lake tahoe

MONTEREY COUNTY Pebbles and pines SAN LUIS OBISPO/ PASO ROBLES Gateway to the south SANTA BARBARA COUNTY the american riviera LIVERMORE VALLEY heritage meets new generation SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS vistas and vineyards SAN FRANCISCO BAY famous fog

LODI AND THE DELTA zinfandel country SACRAMENTO VALLEY golden state capital SAN JOAQUIN VALLEY fertile fields MADERA COUNTY delicious elixirs

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SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

SAN DIEGO COUNTY first vines TEMECULA VALLEY blue skies and sunshine CUCAMONGA VALLEY concentrated character

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California Cabernet Sauvignon

GRAPES

Cred it : © Calif orni aW ine I nstit ute

a i n Y r A o N f i N l O a D C R A H C

In California, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernetbased blends rank among the state’s most prized bottlings. The noble grape produces dry, full-flavored wines with aromas and flavors that commonly include notes of berries, currants, cassis, bell pepper and toasty oak. Cabernet Sauvignon’s aging potential can extend 10-20 years or more, although five to nine years is more typical and many wines can be enjoyed upon release. The wine is second only to Chardonnay in volume sold in the U.S.

Credit : ©California Wine Institute

If Cabernet Sauvignon is the king of red grapes, Chardonnay is the queen of whites. The variety is California's most widely planted winegrape, with 93,452 acres reported in 2017. Chardonnay far and away remains the most popular wine in the U.S. and has continued to be the leading varietal wine for the last decade, with sales increases every year. Chardonnay represented an estimated 19 percent of table wine volume purchased in U.S. food stores in 2017, according to estimates by The Nielsen Company and Gomberg-Fredrikson & Associates. In 2017, California crushed 614,000 tons of Chardonnay. Fans of Chardonnay are familiar with the wine's classic descriptors: green apple, fig and citrus flavors, a complex aroma, and high acidity for a crisp wine. The wine is often aged in oak to produce toasty, vanilla and buttery overtones.

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California MERLOT

What is the reason for Merlot's popularity? Industry observers offer possible explanations. Consumers continue to try red wine because of news reports linking moderate drinking to a healthy lifestyle. Also, white and blush drinkers may be expanding their preferences to red. Merlot may be the choice in both instances because of the soft, approachable and luscious character that is appealing to new and regular red wine drinkers. In restaurants, Merlot's average price is similar to the average price of the widely popular Chardonnay varietal.

O T

a A i C n S r O o M f i / l T a A C C S U M

nia r o f ali C © t: i d Cre

eI n i W

Moscato’s popularity has grown in recent years, and comes in styles varied enough to suit every taste. Muscat grapes produce table, sparkling and dessert wines, in shades of white, pink or red, ranging from dry to deliciously sweet. Traditionally, Italian winemakers used the grape to produce lowalcohol, spritzy white wines often poured as an aperitif. While today’s versatile wines pair well with many dishes, sparkling and lateharvest Moscatos are particularly good with fruit tarts or rich cheesecake.

Pinot Grigio is a white wine grape that most often yields a soft, low acidic wine that may be slightly aromatic. With its crisp stone fruit and citrus flavors, California Pinot Grigio adds a refreshing verve to most any light meal. The grape itself has a pinkish-grey skin, hence the name gris (French for grey). Pinot Grigio is the Italian synonym for the grape also commonly known as Pinot Gris, a noble variety that has origins in Alsace, France. In America, the synonyms, Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris, are both fairly prevalent. Pinot Grigio is known to be a deviation of the Pinot Noir grape, and leaves of the two varietals are quite similar. Historically, they have grown side by side in the same vineyard.

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GRAPES

Of California table wine shipments, Merlot is the third leading red varietal after Cabernet Sauvignon and Red Blends purchased by Americans today. California Merlot consumption held a 7% share of shipments in U.S. food stores in 2016, according to the Nielsen Company and Gomberg, Fredrikson & Associates estimates.

a i n r o T f O i l N I a P C / S I GR GIO I R G

u te t i t ns

T O IN

Eight Facts on How Wines Go from Grape to Glass

California harvest: largest in the U.S. California produces more than 80 percent of U.S. wine and is the world’s fourth-largest producer. More than 90 percent of all California wine is produced in a Certified California Sustainable winery.

Seeds hold the clues. Along with measuring the fruit’s sugar, acidity and pH levels, California winemakers continually taste the grapes—making sure to chew the seeds—in the days leading up to harvest. That’s because as grapes mature, their seeds turn brown and become less bitter. By chewing the seeds, winemakers can tell when Photo Credit:Washington Stateperfect Wine courtesy of , the grapes have reached ripeness. Andréa Johnson Photography.

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The grapes come in after dark. Wineries typically harvest between midnight and early morning because the cooler nighttime temperatures help concentrate and preserve the fresh fruit aromas and flavors and stabilize sugar levels. Night harvesting also saves energy in the winery because it eliminates the need to cool down the grapes after they have been picked, and it provides more comfortable working conditions for vineyard crews.

Sparkling wines go first.Harvesting early—typically in late July or early August—helps the state’s wineries maintain refreshing acidity in their sparkling wines. While just about any grape variety can be used to make sparkling wine, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the most common choices. Falcons help at harvest time. As part of their sustainable farming practices, many California vintners recruit trained raptors to scare away flocks of starlings and other birds that swoop in to eat ripe winegrapeshanging on the vines.

Photo Credit:Washington State Wine courtesy of Andréa Johnson Photography. 34

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118+grape varieties. The state’s diverse climate and soils provide a hospitable home for dozens of of winegrape varieties from Albariño to Zinfandel.

Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon: state’s top grapes. Chardonnay is the number grape by tons harvested in California, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon. .

One ton of grapes = 63 cases. On average, one ton of winegrapes produces about 63 cases of wine, or 756 (750 ml) bottles. SOURCE:

Photo Credit:Washington State Wine courtesy of Andréa Johnson Photography. fooddrinkmagazine.com

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WASHINGTON STATE WINE Photo Credit:Washington State Wine courtesy of Andréa Johnson Photography.

FAST FACTS

INDUSTRY OVERVIEW

• Washington is the second largest wineproducing region in the U.S. • 950+ wineries in the state; a number more than doubling in the past decade. • Washington is not defined by a single grape variety, with nearly 70 varieties planted. • Varietal typicity, pure fruit flavors, and a blend of Old World and New World styles are the hallmarks of Washington’s wines.

PRODUCTION Licensed Wineries: 1,000+

• Washington wines consistently offer high quality and value across a range of price points.

Grape Growers: 400+ Appellations (AVAs): 14 Acres/Hectares Planted: 59,000+* Tons Harvested in 2018: 261,000 LEADING VARIETIES Cabernet Sauvignon: 74,400 tons Chardonnay: 41,500 tons Riesling: 38,300 tons Merlot: 37,500 tons Syrah: 24,300 tons ANNUAL ECONOMIC IMPACT: 7 billion

Photo Credit:Washington State Wine courtesy of Andréa Johnson Photography.

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WASHINGTON STATE APPELLATIONS Washington State embraces a diverse collection of world-class vineyard areas. There are fourteen unique growing regions across the state. These appellations have been officially designated as American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) by the U.S. Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB). Each AVA possesses a unique combination of climate, topography and soils that define the aromas and flavors of locally grown grapes and the wines crafted from them.

and Syrah. In fact, the appellation includes Washington’s oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vines at Otis (1957) and Harrison Hill (1963) vineyards. • Designated in 1983: Washington State’s first federally–recognized AVA • More than 16,000 vineyard acres over 1/3 of Washington’s vineyards • Includes more than 65 wineries • Top varietals: Riesling and Syrah • Silt-loan soils predominate allowing proper drainage necessary to keep vine’s under control • In addition to vineyards, Yakima harvests more than 75% of hops grown in the United States WALLA WALLA VALLEY The Walla Walla Valley is home to some of Washington’s oldest wineries and has the highest concentration of wineries in Washington. Initially, many wineries sourced grapes from other regions of the Columbia Valley due to the limited number of plantings in the area. While many continue this practice, a large increase in plantings now allows many wineries to create Walla Walla Valley designated bottles.

Photo Credit:Washington State Wine courtesy of Andréa Johnson Photography.

YAKIMA VALLEY Yakima Valley is Washington’s first and most diverse growing regions. Its vineyards flourish across nearly a hundred miles, and they yield more than 40 different white and red grape varieties. Stretches of cooler terrain in the Yakima Valley are home to almost half of the Chardonnay and Riesling grown in the state. Simultaneously, the Yakima Valley’s many warmer sites yield significant percentages of Washington’s best Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, 40

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Photo Credit:Washington State Wine courtesy of Andréa Johnson Photography.

• Designated in 1984 • One Washington’s four cross-border AVAs; 220,799 acres in Washington, 98,628 acres in Oregon • Over 100 wineries and tasting rooms • Top varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon leads, Merlot, Chardonnay and Syrah are predominant • Loess derived soils which are essentially unconsolidated, unstratified calcareous silt • Growing season of 190 – 220 days, with annual rainfall averaging 12.5 inches per year • Grape growing began in Walla Walla Valley in the 1850s by Italian immigrants • Also known for its sweet onions, asparagus and expansive wheat fields

Photo Credit:Washington State Wine courtesy of COLUMBIA VALLEY Andréa Johnson Photography. Encompassing more than a third of the state, the Columbia Valley is by far Washington’s largest growing region at nearly 11 million PUGET SOUND acres. The appellation is located in central, south central, and southeastern Washington Located in western Washington, Puget Sound is with part of the appellation spilling across the unique for Washington in that it enjoys long, mild and dry summers, but gets enough rainfall border into Oregon. to grow grapes without irrigation. It is Washington’s coolest and wettest grow ing • Designated in 1984 region. It rarely suffers significant freezes in • Largest growing region, totaling over 11 winter. The Puget Sound’s best-grown varieties million acres • Contains 99% of all the wine grapes grown pair very well with the region’s famous fresh seafood. Red Willow Vineyard within Washington

• Top varietals; Riesling, Merlot, Chardonnay • Designated in 1995 and Cabernet Sauvignon • 92 vineyard acres of vinifera grapes planted • Contains eight (8) sub-AVAs within its • Approximately 45 wineries live in the Puget borders: Red Mountain, Yakima Valley, Walla Sound region Walla Valley, Wahluke Slope, • Top varietals: Madeleine Angevine, • Rattlesnake Hills, Horse Heaven Hills, Snipes Siegerebbe and Muller-Thurgau. Followed by Mountain, Lake Chelan, Naches Heights and Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir Ancient Lakes • Washington’s coolest and wettest growing • 6,070 vineyard acres are planted in the region: average of 15 inches – 30 inches of Columbia Valley and not included in any other precipitation per year sub-AVAs fooddrinkmagazine.com

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RED MOUNTAIN • Traveling west to east within the Columbia Red Mountain harvests some of the state’s most Gorge, rainfall diminishes almost an inch per sought-after wine grapes. This very warm site, mile where growing season daytime temperatures • Western vineyards: cool, marine influenced average 90 degrees, gets only 5 inches (127 climate (40 inches of rain per year) – perfect mm) of rain each year. for These warm temperatures cultivate an ideal Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and climate for red grape varieties, but limit Riesling plantings of white grape varieties. • Eastern vineyards: continental high desert climate (10 inches of rain per year) but plentiful • Designated in 2001 sunshine – perfect for • Over 2,227 vineyard acres planted in the Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Zinfandel 4,538 acre area • Vineyard altitudes vary from near sea level to • Washington’s smallest appellation by acreage close to 2,000 feet • Top varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Sangiovese, Malbec and HORSE HEAVEN HILLS Petit Verdot • Sub-appellation of Yakima Valley AVA The Horse Heaven Hills AVA is nestled between • Not a mountain, not red in color. the Yakima Valley and the Columbia River at the Oregon border. The Horse Heaven Hills AVA is among Washington’s warmer growing regions allowing a wide variety of grapes to ripen successfully. More than 1,500 feet of elevation change across the face of the appellation, paired with high winds and welldraining soils establish this AVA as one of the premier wine grape sources in the Pacific Northwest. The Horse Heaven Hills had its first vinifera plantings in 1972 at what is now Champoux Vineyard, and vineyard designated Photo Credit:Washington State Wine courtesy of Andréa Johnson Photography. bottles—particularly cabernet sauvignon—from this site are some of Washington’s most coveted and expensive wines. COLUMBIA GORGE The Columbia Gorge AVA gave recognition to a uniquely beautiful area straddling the Columbia River along the Oregon border. Notably, the Columbia Gorge is one of Washington’s only growing regions that lies outside of the Columbia Valley appellation. • Designated in 2004 • Nearly 400 acres under vine • One of the few AVAs where white grape variety plantings outnumber red grape plantings • One of Washington’s four cross-border AVAs; 66,604 acres in Washington and 120,012 acres in Oregon 42

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• Designated in 2005 • Nearly 13,000 vineyard acres – represents 25% of Washington’s total grape production • Top varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon. Merlot, Chardonnay, Riesling and Syrah • 37 total varieties planted within AVA Sagemoor • 2/3 of acreage is planted to red wine grapes, 1/3 to white wine grapes • Over 1,500 feet of elevation change across the face of the appellation • Proud source of the 1st, 2nd and 3rd “100 point” wines from Washington State

WAHLUKE SLOPE The Wahluke Slope is bounded by the Columbia River to the south and west and the Saddle Mountains to the north, is a dry, very warm site near the center of the larger Columbia Valley AVA. The major distinguishing feature of the Wahluke Slope is its uniformity in aspect, soil type, and climate. The entire appellation lies on a broad, south-facing slope with a constant, gentle grade of less than 8%. This, along with the proximity to the Columbia River, helps minimize the risk of frost, which can affect other areas of the state.

• 18 wineries and 29 vineyards • Predominant soils are silt-loam and loam • A sub-appellation of the Yakima Valley AVA

• Designated in 2006 • More than 8,000 acres of vineyards • Top varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah • Home to more than 20 vineyards and at least three wine production facilities

SNIPES MOUNTAIN

Red Mountain

RATTLESNAKE HILLS The Rattlesnake Hills AVA is located along the north-central edge of the Yakima Valley appellation. The high elevation of the Yakima Ridge to the north of the Rattlesnake Hills protects the area from winter freezes that can affect other areas of the state. an arid, continental climate and receives an average of 6 to 12 inches of rainfall annually. Irrigation is therefore required to grow vinifera grapes. • Designated in 2006 – first commercial vineyards date back to 1968 • Nearly 1,800 acres of vineyards – 70% of these grapes are winery-owned • Top varieties: Riesling, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon

The Snipes Mountain AVA , located at the center of the Yakima Valley. This AVA is set apart by the surrounding terrain by an elevated topography and distinct soils. Though Snipes Mountain was established recently (February 2009), it is one of the state’s oldest wine grape- growing districts and is home to our second-oldest block of Cabernet Sauvignon vines. • Designated in 2009 – Washington State’s 10th official viticultural area Sagemoor • 2nd smallest AVA in Washington State (4,145 acres) – 807 acres under vine • Top varieties: Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon • Vineyards grow more than 30 different wine grape varieties – fruit is used in more than 25 wineries • Sub-appellation of the Yakima Valley AVA

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LAKE CHELAN This AVA wraps around the tourist-popular Lake Chelan Set at the northwest corner of the larger Columbia Valley appellation. Lake Chelan AVA has a high elevation and a temperate climate relative to its neighbor AVAs to the south. The AVA is also distinguished by a significant “lake effect” that creates mild and favorable temperatures for surrounding areas, resulting in a longer growing season and a reduced risk of frost. • Designated in 2009 • Of the appellations 24,040 acres, only 261 is under vine • Top varieties: Syrah, Merlot, Malbec Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer and Chardonnay • Home to 16 wineries.

during the last ice age that formed the soils of many other grape growing regions in the state. • Designated in 2011 • Of the 13,254 appellation acres, only 39 vineyard acres • Washington’s smallest AVA in terms of acreage under vine • Soils are windblown and heavy in clay helping the soil retain water • Top varieties: Pinot Gris, Riesling and Syrah ANCIENT LAKES OF COLUMBIA VALLEY Ancient Lakes sits right in the middle of the state. The area is wholly contained within the Columbia Valley region and is named after a series of thirty-five lakes that dot the area. The AVA sits on soils left from the Missoula Floods giving the area soils of sand and silty loam . The famous Gorge Amphitheater resides on the western edge of the AVA. Designated in 2012 • Of the 162,762 appellation acres, 1,608 are vineyard acres • Produces 20 different grape varieties. Top varieties: Riesling and Chardonnay • 65 soil types within the AVA • 182- day growing season and receives very little rainfall, only 6.5 inches of rain a year. LEWIS CLARK VALLEY

NACHES HEIGHTS Naches Heights is an extremely young growing region, with its first vinifera plantings in 2002. The AVA sits on a volcanic plateau within the Yakima Valley and is a sub-appellation of the Columbia Valley. Naches Heights is unique in that it has a higher elevation than most regions in Washington. The lowest point of the AVA is 1,200 feet and elevations rise to 2,100 feet That high elevation kept Naches Heights unaffected from the Missoula Floods 44

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The Lewis-Clark Valley AVA’s soil is comprised of decomposing perennial grasses and grass roots with capacity to hold water. The majority of soils contain loess, or wind-deposited, nutrient-rich silt. The region has good planting areas that are easy to develop and contains air drainage characteristics that are ideal for wine grapes. It also contains steep sides within Sagemoor shallow, stony surficial coverage for both classic and exotic vineyard sites. Designated in 2016. • Formed by the Snake and Clearwater rivers, the Lewis-Clark Valley AVA consists of canyon side and bench lands and is 306,658 acres in size. • About 72% (219,838 acres) of the Lewis-Clark Valley AVA is located in Idaho, the rest in Washington.

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OREGON WINES

INDUSTRY OVERVIEW

With 19 designated wine growing areas located in five diverse regions, Oregon boasts more than 793 wineries producing wine from over 82

In the marine-influenced Willamette Valley, cool-adapted grapes such as Pinot noir, Pinot gris, Riesling and Chardonnay ripen to perfection, producing elegant wines with a global reputation. In the warm, highelevation vineyards of Southern Oregon and the Walla Walla Valley, heat-loving varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, Syrah and Viognier are crafted into headturning wines earning top scores from national critics. And in the Columbia Gorge and Eastern Oregon, varied microclimates allow winemakers and growers the luxury of working with the widest range of grape varieties of anywhere in the state. If you were a wine grape, you’d want to be planted in Oregon.

grape varieties. Most of its wineries are small and family owned, many producing fewer than 5,000 cases annually. Oregon has more than 500 wine tasting rooms and are worth the pilgrimage. In 2016 (the most recent year for which statistics are available), wine-related tourism contributed almost $787 million to the state, up from $295 million in 2013, a 162% increase over three years.

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D T O H

L A E

HANDCRAFTED SILK SHAWLS AND SCARVES

www.pettygifts.com

Dave WINTERIDGE

Domaine Treloar

Domaine Treloar is a small winery in the Languedoc-Roussillon region in the South of France. What makes this winery special is that it is owned and operated by an Englishman from Yorkshire and his New Zealand wife, from where the name of the winery is derived. To take on the French at their own game in France is certainly a bold move and you would imagine that Jonathan and Rachel had years of wine making experience behind them before embarking on such a venture. In fact they had spent about 5 years in the industry studying and working with some of the most prestigious wine makers in New Zealand before deciding to buy their dream here in France. Briefly, their back story is one of IT and tax officer before a monumental World event changed their lives forever. Whilst working and living in New York they were unfortunate enough to have an apartment one block away from the World Trade Centre in September 2001. Watching both planes hit the Towers they were forced to evacuate with their baby daughter and whatever belongings they could carry. Jonathan later lost his job and along with it, his right to live in America. A new perspective on life was called for so he decided to follow a dream of being involved in wine production. After a short course in England they moved to New Zealand to study viticulture at university and work alongside some of the best winemakers in New Zealand. Jonathan was clearly a natural, finishing top of his class.

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Zaloudock, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

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I first met Jonathan and Rachel in 2015 when looking for wine for the restaurant, by which time they had been in France about 9 years. The winery itself is small and they have around 10 hectares of vines which are worked by themselves. Jonathan kindly opened several wines for us to sample and over the course of the next hour we talked wine, France and the trials of being English in a very French dominated business. We left with a couple of cases of their extremely good One Block Muscat. From the original 10 hectares that they bought around Trouillas in 2006, Domaine Treloar has expanded and now includes an additional 2 hectares of the oldest Syrah vines in Trouillas as well as renting two vineyards on the slopes of Forca Real. They now produce 13 very distinct wines of unique character with names that follow inspiration from songs by Bruce Springsteen and, of course, their experience of living One Block away on that fateful day. All Jonathan’s wines have been highly acclaimed by some of the most respected wine critics in the business - names such as Jancis Robinson, publications like Decanter, Wine Spectator and Guide Hachette. He now produces some of the best wines in the Roussillon region and is getting the recognition that he deserves. Domaine Treloar has a following in the local area as well as abroad and supplies some carefully chosen restaurants. The French have finally accepted that not only can an Englishman make wine he can make extremely fine wine. Their winemaking philosophy is simple “ I believe that great wine is real wine. Wine that is created by the vineyard and requires only gentle encouragement in the winery to transform the grapes into fine wine”. The winery is open to tours and tastings which can be booked in advance - I am sure you will not be disappointed. 28 I fooddrinkmagazine.com

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DAVE WINTERIDGE

FRENCH VINTAGE 2021 HIT BY FROST

It is almost exactly one year since we were fMuch of Europe has been enjoying the warmest March on record, picnics in the park, sitting on the beach and, even, swimming in the sea. Blossoms are blooming, fruit trees and grapevines are starting to form new buds. But at their most vulnerable time a cruel blast of cold air, a sting in the tail of winter, has decimated certain regions in France and many “agriculteurs” are set to lose hundreds of thousands of euros.

Here in the South of France it really seemed that spring was here - we have been enjoying unusually high daytime temperatures and a glimmer of summer round the corner. With an ever-warming planet many of the fruit trees and vines are coming into blossom as much as three weeks earlier than previously. As you drive past orchards and vineyards you notice that the farmers have painted the trees and vines white in order to reflect

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the sun and hopefully slow down the new blossoms. But on the night of 7th April disaster struck. Following a bright, sunny day the forecast was warning of a band of cold air spreading across France that, backed up by clear nighttime skies, would lead to frost. The end of the first week in April has turned out to be amongst the coldest on record with snow and frost at low altitude. At this time of year, with the colourful blossoms at their peak and new buds forming, the trees are at their most vulnerable.

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Unfortunately these frosty episodes are happening more often and the “viticulteurs” take dramatic measures to protect their beloved vines. The most common method of preventing frost from attacking the vines is to light hundreds of “candles” around the vineyard - in reality loads of metal drums that are kept burning through the night in an attempt to keep the air temperature up. Other more hitech methods include the use of enormous fans to blow the cold air upwards or the

extremely expensive use of helicopters to keep the air moving above the vines. In St Emilion this week helicopters have been used in conjunction with candles to help prevent the frost. But with overnight temperatures hitting minus 6 celsius in many places the damage to the vines is irreversible this year and it is estimated that upto 80% of French vineyards have been affected. In some regions here in the South of France, such as Languedoc-Roussillon and Herault, some growers are saying that nearly 95% of their vines have been lost and that there will be very few bottles with a 2021 label. There is, however, a government backed fund in place to aid the agricultural industry in France, known as “le régime de calamité agricole”. Following the extreme cold that swept through France on the night of 7th April

the government has activated its plan to support the wine growers and other sectors of the agricultural industry. Although most farmers take out private insurance, the insurance companies will not cover the losses incurred due to weather so it falls to the government to help out. In order to be eligible the wine grower needs to show a potential loss of more than 1000 euros - some are claiming losses in excess of 100,000 euros! The weather forecast is still predicting more cold weather to come which no doubt will lead to more damage to the vines. The harvest for this year is already looking pretty bleak, so if you find a 2021 from France it may well be a rarity and we will have to wait for the summer to see if it is any good.

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