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EL AZTECO WHAT CONSTITUTES A SUBSTANTIAL MEAL CHRISTMAS IN THE RESTAURANT SALT, FAT, ACID, HEAT; A BREAKDOWN OF WHAT MAKES A DISH
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BEING AN ENGLISH CHEF IN FRANCE 5
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Roux vs Béchamel
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The Best Online Cooking
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DIRECTOR Hakan KESKIN admin@fooddrinkmagazine.com ADVERTISING AND MARKETING COORDINATOR Gizem KESKIN gizemkeskin@fooddrinkmagazine. com AUTHORS Morgen SECHLER
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Being an English Chef in France
Kayla EATON Dave WINTERIDGE Daphne REZNIK
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What Constitutes A Substantial Meal
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English Hospitality out in the Cold
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Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat; A Breakdown Of What Makes A Dish
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Christmas in the Restaurant
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Roux vs Béchamel
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“Roux’s and béchamel’s, it’s quite possible that you haven’t heard either of these words. Most commonly they’re used in a professional kitchen, or maybe you’ve heard them get thrown around in your favorite Food Network show. Even though the words possibly seem unfamiliar, you have for sure tasted what they can do..”
Roux’s and béchamel’s are staples in any kitchen. Rooted in French cuisine, they are the foundation to a number of different known dishes. There’s often confusion between the two, so, let’s go over exactly what they are and how to use them to your culinary benefit.
Roux A roux is a base to a sauce, soup, etc. It is used as a thickening agent for that velvety creamy texture you’d associate with a mushroom sauce or a clam chowder soup. A roux is made with two simple ingredients; butter and flour. When making a roux you’ll want to melt down your butter in a saucepan, make sure to melt it gently on low as butter cannot tolerate high temps and will brown incredibly fast. After your butter is completely melted you add in roughly an equal amount of flour. I personally, will use a 2:3 ratio, with butter remaining dominate in the roux. Keep in mind this is entirely up to your preference of the dish, the less flour you use the thinner your sauce, soup, etc. consistency will be, and of course, the more flour you use, the thicker it will get. You want to keep the temp low and make sure the flour absorbs all the butter, it should look almost pasty and become thick pretty quickly at this point. This butter and flour paste you now have is a roux. This simple combination of ingredients helps to stabilize a multitude of different dishes and is vital in so many of our favorite foods; mac n cheese, alfredo sauce, lasagna, and the list can go on. Okay, so a roux’s important, but what exactly is a béchamel? Roux’s and béchamel’s are actually two of the same, a small addition propelling the dish forward is what changes it into a béchamel. Let’s go over this.
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Béchamel A béchamel begins the same as a roux does, a roughly equal ratio of butter to flour. One small addition changes it into a béchamel; milk. At this stage you should be looking down into your saucepan at a pasty pale-yellow mixture of butter and flour, once you add your dairy (cream, milk, even milk alternatives can work if you’re finessed in the kitchen) this dairy will break up the flour and butter and become the base of the sauce, think a clean canvas to whatever saucy art work you can throw at it. This stage is important because the béchamel needs to cook down enough for it to hold and stabilize so it will not split. Keep in mind that this cannot be left alone! A béchamel needs constant movement (a whisk is your friend here) or else a film will develop and texturally remain in the sauce. Also be mindful to scrape down the edges of the pan to avoid any solidified parts that can get into your sauce. When you want to see if it’s done cooking there’s a great way to do so. The tried and true method is to dip a flat spatula or wide spoon into the béchamel, swipe your finger down the spoon/spatula and tilt it to its side. If the line of your finger stays intact, as in the sauce doesn’t drip down and cover the open space of the spoon, your sauce is done. What we’re looking for with a béchamel is if it can hold on its own, flour is a stabilizer and the béchamel needs to be cooked down enough for the flour to do its job in the finalization of the dish. At this point after the milk has been added, you can do anything imaginable with this sauce! You can add some cheese and make a mac n cheese, maybe add some spices and herbs and layer over a bed of vegetables before you throw it in the oven. You could add some mushrooms and red wine, reduce and pair it with a fatty cut of steak for a delicious steak sauce. Endless possibilities when you use these famous French methods, try giving them a shot, once you master the make you’ll be able to do so much with it, have fun experimenting!
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Kayla EATON
THE BEST ONLINE COOKING CLASSES
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I don’t know about where you live, but where I am in New Hampshire, it seems that there will be another lockdown. For a foodie, this means less time to experience a restaurant culture and more take out. I love supporting local restaurants and enjoying the food everyone has to offer, but to be honest, I live in a small town. It is unlike New York or San Francisco, with thousands of restaurants to try. There is only a handful, and I love them all but have tried almost all of them. I love supporting local restaurants and enjoying the food everyone has to offer, but to be honest, I live in a small town. It is unlike New York or San Francisco, with thousands of restaurants to try. There is only a handful, and I love them all but have tried almost all of them. I have been coming up with a list of things to do during our next round of lockdowns, and someone told me about online cooking classes. Now, up until recently, I wasn’t the one cooking in the kitchen. My fiance loves to cook, and I let him do his thing in the kitchen. Being a freelance writer has a lot of perks, and I finally started cooking. I am not the best cook, but I have found that I do actually enjoy cooking. I like finding a recipe, trying it, and improving on it. So, I am excited to say that I have signed up for cooking classes to try during the lockdown.
Online Cooking Classes To Sign Up For Now Though I have only tried one of these, I am determined to try all of them through the next few months. Here are the best ones you should try. If you want to make it fun, create a group on zoom and do it with your best friends!
Rouxbe https://rouxbe.com/membership/ The best thing about this is it starts with a 30-day free trial. After that, you pay $9.99 a month and have access to free recipes and courses. It will help you feel like you know what you’re doing in the kitchen and really teach you the skills you need to be successful. The best features include: 75 lessons 100’s or more recipes Instructor Support Instructor Grading Certificate Completion Now, if you’re like me, you’re in it for the food and learning how to create that restaurant experience on your own. This is one of the best ones if you want to make it feel more professional. I could take or leave the certificate, but for me, that really isn’t the point.
Gordon Ramsay Masterclass https://www.masterclass.com/classes/gordonramsay-teaches-cooking-restaurant-recipes-athome This is a class I have meant to try because I LOVE Gordon Ramsay. He is funny, harsh, and knows what he’s doing. He has created a whole industry based on his love for good food. During our next lockdown, this is what I will be taking first and foremost. This class is $15 a month billed annually. On top of this class, you can get hundreds of other courses too. The best features include: 15 Lessons Short Lessons PDF Workbooks Easy To Follow Gordon Ramsay has put together 13 dishes that use everyday ingredients to completely revamp them. I am so excited to try this class out and see if I can wow my fiance with some new meals inspired by these classes.
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CozyMeal Dependent On Recipe https://www.cozymeal.com/online-cookingclasses vCozyMeals is not like the other options. There is not one price to join the community. Instead, you are paying for one class, usually between $29-$70 per dish. This money goes to support the chef who made the video. It is a fun and interactive program that can teach you how to make thousands of dishes from home. Each class will show the class’s price, the day it is being hosted, and all of the ingredients and kitchen devices you need. I have tried one course from here and have absolutely loved it. The best features include: No Monthly Subscription A Wide Variety Of Recipes Easy Videos To Join Interactive This is an excellent option if you miss talking to other people and want to be interactive with a group without worrying about being around others. This is a fun way to meet new people, cook and get that cooking class feeling.
America’s Test Kitchen Online Cooking School https://www.onlinecookingschool.com/catalog If you know how to cook and you’re looking to build your skills, this is the website for you. I am excited to try this one because it will help me understand how to take what I have to the next level. It teaches what you need to do by award-winning chefs in a step-by-step manner. I am looking forward to trying this with my friends across the country. Using this website and creating zoom meetings with my dearest friends on the west coast sounds like a super fun idea. The best features include: Recipes Ranked From Easy To Difficult Different Categories Of Recipes A Detailed List Of Ingredients This class seems like the perfect option if you want to start from the easiest and go all the way to more challenging recipes. As you gain more practice, things will become more comfortable and less confusing. The best thing about this website is there is a two week free trial period. After that, it is $20 per month.
What Will You Try This Lockdown? I know we all thought life would go back to normal after our last quarantine, but that is not the case. We have to stay at home and help our at-risk people remain healthy and alive. I know it isn’t fun, I know we hated it, but it is our responsibility. There are fun ways to get that restaurant experience at home, and the best part is you can create it. There is no better time to learn some new skills than during lockdown.
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Daphne REZNIK
EL AZTECO fooddrinkmagazine.com
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El Azteco was a go-to for me before the pandemic closed restaurants throughout Michigan and the whole U.S., but since it re-opened their patio when the dining ban was softened, it has been one of the only places I tend to frequent locally. Their staff has done an outstanding job blocking seats on the new patio at the back of the building as well as inside, where you see tables “reserved” for everyone from George Clooney to Jackie Chan. This place has taken the limited capacity rules in stride and with a smile. At least I think that’s what’s going on behind the masks!
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There are those that might think the cooking style isn’t super-authentic, but as I learned early on, there are many versions of “authentic” with so many regions in Mexico as well taking into account Tex-Mex. This leans that direction with yellow cheese and heartier, homier, comfort-food type dishes. The “least” hearty is probably the famous Topopo Salad. Heaps of lettuce mixed with everything from tomato to scallions to peas and it includes chicken. You can get a half order but why? It’s not worth saving literally a couple of bucks. Split it if you must, but it can easily go home! The rest of the menu basically boils down to typical Mexican entrees served up with one of three housemade sauces: Chile Verde: what they call “spicy” when they ask “do you want it spicy or mild” has jalapeno. It is always what I order. Chile Colorado: the famous “mild” red sauce. Mole: a little sweeter dark sauce with a hint of chocolate.
In my opinion, the best things on the menu are the Chimichanga (with guacamole on top), their fantastically crispy flautas, the Huevos Rancheros (if you’re feeling like eggs!) and my personal favorite: the Enchiladas de Jocoque– which I ask to have with beef baked into since they are stuffed with cheddar. If you order any enchilada dish, you get a sopapilla. Something which I honestly haven’t asked for since preCovid. I get so full there but if you’re in town and just giving the place a try, order up- and drizzle the honey all over it. It reminds me of growing up in Holland Michigan and the scent on the block of my old college room-mates grandmother’s house during the Cinco de Mayo celebrations back in the 80s. Not incredibly hungry or in the mood to try several different things? You can get burritos, tacos, gorditas and more a la carte. But whatever you order, do not leave without trying the cheese dip! OK, I will warn you now, this is not gooey hot cheese; their version, which has inspired TONS of copycat versions online, is cold. Click here if you don’t believe me. I know it sounds nuts if you’re not familiar with the creamy goodness El Az is known for but if you are any bit a foodie at heart, it is a must. It’s a mix of cottage cheese and Monterey Jack with sour cream, spiced up. You will love it or hate it reading that, but everyone I’ve ever known that has tried it craves it later.
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Double opportunity: There is also an East Lansing location blocks from Michigan State University (MSU)! This is truly the more “famous” location; it’s the one with the rooftop bar. Many an MSU student (as well as locals, faculty, and alum) have gathered up there for pitchers of their famous red sangria, margaritas, or a Dos Equis. This location is actually the “new” (20 years?) East Lansing location. When I started MSU back in 1988, El Az was in the basement through some really narrow stairwell in between two building on M.A.C. Ave. It was the ultimate throwback with red shag carpet and velvet art on walls. I must admit, I secretly miss the original, as much of a fire hazard as it likely was!
1016 West Saginaw Street, Lansing, Michigan 48915, United States https://elaztecowest.com/ (517) 485-4589
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Dave WINTERIDGE
Being an English Chef in France
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In 2015 my wife and I decided we were going to open a restaurant in France. Knowing that I am an English chef
wanting to open a restaurant in the country that considers itself the
mother and father of all restaurants you might be correct in thinking we
were crazy. But this was not our first rodeo!
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I first met the lady who was to become my wife in the late 1980’s. We were students at the same catering college, albeit a year apart, and met on industrial placement. We went our separate ways, did different things with other people and got back together in 2005 and married in 2007. At which point she suggested, and I stress SHE suggested, we pack up, move to Spain and open a restaurant! Which is exactly what we did. One year before the biggest financial crash in living memory! It had always been my dream to live in France, so after 7 years in Spain it was my suggestion to pack up and move to France. My wife reminds me on a regular basis that France was my idea! We had spent time in the Pyrenees Orientales on holiday and knew the area well and had even made some friends. We have Perpignan and the Mediterranean to the east of us and the majestic Pyrenees mountains to the west. We are literally one hour from the coast and one hour from the ski stations. We found an old restaurant in January 2015 that had been closed for three years and decided to re-open it. Between March and May we redecorated, had a disabledfriendly toilet built, scrubbed the kitchen, bought new equipment for the kitchen and scoured second hand shops and the internet for restaurant furniture. We managed to get water and electricity connected, with a little help. We were quite obviously becoming a tourist attraction. Two questions were asked daily by the locals as they stopped to stare in - when do you hope to open? (early May) and you are English? (yes!) Our command of French at this stage was limited but we knew enough to know that the locals thought we were cuckoo and they were most likely running a book as to how long the crazy English would last!
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Whilst we spent a large part of our days
After the third day I left clutching my
covered in paint, old kitchen grease and
certificate and feeling like I had been let out
general filth, we also had to tackle the
of school early! Now was the time to apply for
notorious French bureaucracy. We made two
the licence, which is granted by the local
great finds, an accountant who spoke English,
town hall and which has to be granted two
although he had never dealt with a restaurant,
weeks before the restaurant is allowed to
and a bank. Our contact in the bank had not a
open.
word of English but we had a mutual appreciation of rugby and food and got on like
Before the town hall would issue the licence
a house on fire! But I still had to spend three
they needed my business registration
days on a French licensing course.
number. But before I could get the business registration number I needed the liquor
Along with twenty other hopefuls and
licence! At which point my stumbling French
wannabe licensees I turned up at 8.45 on the
switched to fluent Anglo Saxon! I started to
first morning feeling more than slightly
understand why the locals were sniggering
trepidatious! After coffee and croissants (this is
about us opening in May. If I am honest I put
civilised!) and the ubiquitous “vous etes
a signature in a box on a form where it may
anglais?� followed by the not so civilised smirk!
not have belonged and we got our licence
It was down to business.
and registration number – enough said!
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We opened one week behind schedule on May
Gradually we moved on and the French
8th 2015! All the local interest in us became
started to accept the fact that this slightly
extreme caution. We opened to four people –
strange English couple might actually stay.
all of them friends! As I said earlier, France
But their comments regarding the food
considers itself the mother and father of all
remain with us. “Ca change”, “C’est
things “restauranty” and every French person
innovative!”, “Mmm...fait maison!” After nearly
is a frustrated chef. Their opinion of British
six years we are established, have a good
food and British chefs is pretty well summed
reputation, are number two on Tripadvisor
up by the fact that they call us “le rosbif”.
and have got used to the fact that the French remain nervous of us and still demand, “Et le
Over the first few weeks some of the locals
chef.......il est Francais?”
were brave enough to try this novelty. Often appearing very nervous their expectations were clearly low. My wife became proficient at feilding the usual question of “vous etes anglaise?” But it was the follow up question
Rue de Marchands Prades, Languedoc-
that tickled us, which was asked with hope and
Roussillon, France
expectation, “et le chef, il est francais?” Imagine their disappointment when finding
https://www.lameridienne.eu/
out that, no, the chef was also English! As we
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got used to hearing, “Incroyable!”
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Dave Winteridge
WHAT CONSTITUTES A SUBSTANTIAL MEAL
THE BEST 20 UNCONVENTIONAL ITALIAN WINE AREAS 20 I
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"Following a national lockdown for Covid, England has moved into a tiered system of restrictions which came into force on December 2nd. The majority of England has moved into either Tier 2 or Tier 3, with only Cornwall, the Isle of Wight and the Isles of Scilly being in the lowest category of Tier 1�
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Depending on which Tier you are in will depend whether or not pubs and restaurants are open. In Tier 1 pubs and restaurants can open pretty much as usual but in Tier 3 they are only permitted to offer a takeaway service. But it is Tier 2 that we are concerned with because it allows pubs to open and serve alcohol but only with a “substantial meal”. What constitutes a substantial meal has long been a bone of contention within the licensed trade in England.
Since then licensing law has moved forward considerably and it is generally not as restrictive as previously. The new Licensing Act which came into force in 2005 allowed pubs to pretty much choose their hours and, in theory, serve alcohol 24 hours a day. But as we have all seen during 2020 the licensed trade has been one of the biggest casualties of government restrictions and thousands of jobs have been lost and pubs have closed permanently.
Without getting too deep into the legalities of licensing law we do, however, need to go back to the Licensing act of 1964. In the granting of liquor licences to restaurants and guest houses it states that alcohol may only be consumed with a “table meal” and that the serving of alcohol is subsidiary to the meal.
As recently as this year a member of Parliament has stated that a Cornish Pasty does not constitute a substantial meal any more than a packet of crisps or a plate of chips. But if that pasty is served with a side order of, for example, chips and salad it has become a substantial meal. The law now appears to be relatively clear on what can be served but like anything it will be open to interpretation.
In a legal case in 1965, it was determined by the then Lord Chief Justice that a “substantial sandwich” served with pickles and beetroot was a “table meal” and not just a “bar snack”. The age at which you can legally drink alcohol in England is 18 years but there was an exception to allow 16 and 17 year olds to drink certain alcohols alongside a “table meal”. At that time a table meal was defined as “might be expected to be served as the main midday or main evening meal, or as a main course at either such meal”.
There are many pubs in England that do not normally serve food, certainly in the town centres where their clientele will tend to be younger. So how does the publican keep his business alive and offer food? How does he ensure that every customer orders something substantial to eat? And how much alcohol is permitted?
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Firstly, it may be completely impractical for a pub to suddenly start offering food. Considerations such as kitchen space, refrigeration and hygiene laws spring to mind, along with staffing. Since the re-opening of pubs after the first national lockdown all bar service has to be table service and all customers must be seated. Previously where two decent bar staff could have run the bar you now need two extra staff members to be waiting on tables......and now food service. Secondly, a group of four friends come in and only two want to eat. Do you turn all four away, or do you allow only two of them to drink alcohol? As a licensee you could take the decision that two people eating and four drinking is worth the risk of being caught. With regard to the risk of being caught flouting the rules I am not sure how this ludicrous system can be monitored effectively. Are the police going to inspect all licensed premises and check whether the customers are eating a substantial meal? Finally, as previously stated the amount of alcohol consumed should be subsidiary to the meal being eaten. So ordering 10 pints of lager and a hamburger is not going to stand up! But we all know how insistent customers can be and the likelihood of conflict between customers and licensees is huge. There is a further issue concerning how long someone can stay drinking alcohol after they have finished eating. In reality someone going to the pub on Saturday night is wanting to stay for the evening, some will go earlier and have dinner but then stay until closing time. Under the law that the government is implementing there is a grey area about continuing to drink after eating. For me as a caterer and former licensee in England I cannot see the sense in the government’s decision to implement these rules. They are so open to abuse and misinterpretation that they are not actually practical. There will be many instances of licensees being accused of not respecting the legislation, whether it be their fault or the fault of customers, and it is always the licensee who will have to pay the fine. Unfortunately this government has once again not thought through a new hurried legislation. In my opinion you either allow the service of alcohol or you don’t. If the decision is not to allow the sale of alcohol then the government needs to continue its financial support of the entire hospitality industry during these exceptional times.
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Dave Winteridge
ENGLISH HOSPITALITY OUT IN THE COLD 30 I fooddrinkmagazine.com
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Boris Johnson’s English government has outlined its proposals for lifting the Covid lockdown order. From December 2nd England will move to a regional tiered system of restrictions. Currently this plan is to stay in force until March 2021. Much has been written this year about lockdowns, closures and economy but I want to highlight the farcical situation that is facing the English hospitality industry. I emphasise English because Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland have their own rules.
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Before the second national lockdown in England a curfew of 10pm had been imposed on pubs and restaurants and other establishments serving alcohol. This was not a new measure, much of Europe had also imposed night time curfews and bans on the sale of alcohol in a belief that it would slow the spread of Coronavirus. In my opinion,
In these Covid times pubs are only allowed to offer table service; there is no standing at the bar and no going up to the bar to order drinks. Imagine, if you will, this scenario. You are sitting in a pub with your friends, in a group of no more than 6, it’s 9.45pm and the call for last drinks has just gone. You now have fifteen minutes to finish your drinks and leave the pub.
this did nothing to effectively slow the spread of the virus but instead put massive pressure on hospitality businesses and police resources. Historically England has had fairly tight licensing laws and it is only in recent years that pubs have been allowed to set their late night opening hours – previously they were obliged to stop serving at 11pm with all drinks finished by 11.20pm. The laws were relaxed partly in order to stagger the number of people leaving at the same time and hitting the streets. However, if you have been in an English town centre on a Saturday night you will have seen numerous police and ambulance crews tending to scores of drunk people.
As you step through the front door to the street every other pub and restaurant has just emptied of customers and there are now several thousand people on the street. All these people are well fueled with alcohol and looking for somewhere to go to finish their evening out while the police attempt to keep order and get people off the streets. Taxis, buses and trains are crowded and social distancing is a vague concept of the past. The new tiered system does nothing to help already struggling hospitality businesses. If your region is in Tier 1, the lowest level, then you may open your pub and restaurant with table service only. The curfew limit has changed. You can serve alcohol, as previously, up until 10pm but customers are now allowed to stay until 11pm,
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The government believes this will stagger people leaving and relieve pressure on public services. Really? In my experience your customers will now order several rounds of drinks just before 10pm and sit drinking until they are asked to leave. If you are a struggling publican who has been forced to close for several weeks this year, you will not turn down the opportunity to sell a few extra drinks. In Tier 2, you can only serve alcohol with a “substantial meal”. The “substantial meal” has for years been a point of contention within licensing law. Briefly, it is not a plate of chips and should be something requiring a knife and fork – don’t get me started! In England there are numerous pubs that do not serve food, so they are now forced to close again! Remember that only table service is permitted when open, and those tables have to be one metre apart and you are not allowed more than a group of 6 people. So what is the issue with serving alcohol without a meal? Is this virus so intelligent that in areas where there are a higher number of cases it will target drinkers who have not had dinner? Or is this another example of the government trying to outlaw alcohol?
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If you are unlucky enough to live in a region classed as being in Tier 3, well, basically, you are doomed to stay at home! Pubs, restaurants and all non-essential businesses are to remain closed. But you may offer a take away service. The hospitality industry has suffered unimaginable loss during the Covid pandemic but has also put some very strict protocols in place. An industry which employs 2 million people. Table service in a bar is common in many countries but in England the traditional pub is a place where people stand at a bar counter or go to a bar counter to get their own drinks. By adding distanced tables and only allowing ordering and consumption whilst seated the pub is a safer environment than most busses. Add to this that many pubs have installed perspex screens to separate areas and staff are wearing face masks, the risk of Covid infection is as limited as possible. I understand that it requires everyone to follow the protocols. The English government has imposed random rules on the industry without any proper thought to the consequences. They have constantly reacted too late without any proactive thought of how to manage a complicated situation. I doubt whether any of those government ministers has ever spent any time working within the hospitality industry. There appears to be some hope on the horizon with regards to a vaccine but I fear that it may be too late for many of England’s great hospitality venues which have, quite literally, been left out in the cold.
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Morgen Sechler
SALT, FAT, ACID, HEAT; A BREAKDOWN OF WHAT MAKES A DISH
Let’s talk about the foundational pillars of what makes a great dish, salt, fat, acid, and heat. These are necessary elements to cooking best described by Samin Nosrat, in her best-selling book, Salt Fat Acid Heat and also in her mini Netflix series titled under the same name. For now, I’ll be doing my best to live up to her perfected study of these elements through the continuation of this article. It’s quite simple, we all know you need heat to cook, salt to season, fat for depth of flavor and acid to sharpen the diversity of the pallet. They all play a vital role in the wellrounded completion of a dish. So let’s dive in...
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SALT We have five taste that exists to our human taste buds, they are; salty, sweet, bitter, sour and umami. So, naturally salt is the imperative first pillar to cooking success. It’s the flavor we most commonly recognize, and it can change the flavor of any of the five taste we are able to experience. Keep the salt low in a sweet dish and it actually enhances the sweetness, add more salt to a savory dish and you’ll pick up on more of those umami savory flavors. Salt works as an enhancer, an aid to any flavor we can imagine. This makes it vital to our cooking, no matter what the meal is.
FAT Fat’s role in a dish cannot be replaced, it also is incredibly versatile as you can incorporate fat through a multitude of different cooking mediums; oils, natural fat in meats, dairy, and nuts. Fat aids in the textural experience of the dish. It provides a pleasant mouth feel and helps to actually cook down the food. Think how you would use olive oil to sear or maybe you’d drizzle some finishing oil on a salad right before serving. Natural animal fats will provide the most flavor, think if you were to be searing a steak in a stovetop pan, you might throw some butter and herbs in with it then start using a spoon to baste the butter onto the steak. You’re essentially rendering the butter fat into the natural fat of the meat, and if you’ve ever prepared a steak like this, you know the incredible difference it makes to the texture and tenderness of a great cut of meat.
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ACID Acid is most commonly, the underdog of these four flavor pillars. It’s not unusual that the use for acid in dishes goes unknown and is most commonly perceived to be a lime squeezed on top of a taco right before serving. It actually plays a much bigger role. Acid provides balance, it naturally counteracts heavy flavors like too much salt or too much sweetness. It levels out a dish so you can taste each element in layers. It lightens the pallet while stile keeping a depth of flavor. Acid doesn’t just have to be a lime or a lemon, acid is also vinegar, wine or beer, cultured dairy, fermented foods and even tomatoes. Acid also plays a huge role in the tenderization of a dish. Acid breaks down foods and aids in the actual cooking process. Think ceviche, in this dish acid is used to break down foods and essentially cook them without heat. Keep a bottle of red wine vinegar and some lemons around your kitchen, either one can propel your dish to the next level.
HEAT Okay, so this one is pretty obvious, without heat the chemical changes in our foods cannot happen. Food will not caramelize, it will not sear, it will not poach, it will not boil. Heat is pretty straight forward and of course is a necessary pillar in the aiding of a perfect dish. As you can see, we have figured out the science behind great tasting food. It’s not a daunting task to make a delicious meal. If you incorporate these four pillars, you’re bound to have success and a delicious dish to enjoy. Thank you to Samin Nostrat for her detailed explanation on this topic through her book; Salt Fat Acid Heat and also through her Netflix series, so I can, in turn, happily share this information with you all. Happy cooking!
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Dave Winteridge
CHRISTMAS IN THE RESTAURANT
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For the past dozen years or so my wife and I have run a couple of restaurants, firstly in Spain and more recently in France. We are both of British origin so have had to adapt to a different culture when it comes to celebrating Christmas. Christmas in the restaurant, both in Spain and in France has been quite different to what we had been used to. In England Christmas starts pretty much as soon as the kids have gone back to school after the summer break in September. The shops start, slowly at first, to introduce seasonal stock, office workers start talking about the “office party” and by the second week in October every shopping mall round the country is piping that awful grating noise we call Christmas music. In the restaurant, bar and hotel business this is a time to cash-in! Deck the halls and book the parties! Christmas is the time when kitchens are running flat out, restaurant staff are constantly re-laying but somehow everyone remains upbeat. Late nights, early mornings and a good dose of stress seems to bring out the best in caterers. Our first year in Spain the majority of our clientele were British expats, holiday makers and second home owners, so it was no surprise to find we had demand for the restaurant for Christmas.
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We wrote a menu for Christmas Day that included the traditional turkey and had the restaurant fully booked by the end of October. Absolutely no different to what we were used to! Oh how wrong we can be. The Spanish celebrate on Christmas Eve, usually with family and have a large meal with plenty of seafood and, quite often, lamb as the main dish. So when I went to my butcher to order a 12kg turkey he fell about laughing and asked if three small ones would be ok. As we became more established in Spain we started offering the traditional Christmas Eve dinner for our Spanish clients and the turkey meal to our British customers the following day. And every year my butcher smiled and managed somehow to find me a 12kg turkey. Unlike in the UK where all the gifts are opened on December 25th, the Spanish exchange gifts on Twelfth Night, January 6th or, as they call it, Los Reyes (The Kings) which celebrates the arrival of the Wise Men. As every caterer knows the festive period is an opportunity to ring the register before the long winter months of January and February and it normally finishes with New Year’s Eve but we have just discovered another occasion and a reason to write another special menu.
By the time we left Spain we no longer had the 12 days of Christmas but the 12 menus of Christmas – and chef was often heard muttering “what day is it?” or “who wrote this (expletive removed) menu?” Mmmm....”you did chef!” France, like Spain, goes big on Christmas Eve. Called the “Reveillon” the meal on Christmas Eve is a family affair and can last hours! Oysters are a favourite to get things going, normally with champagne but it can also be the time when everything comes to a bloody end. The emergency departments in French hospitals are often busy with gentlemen who have over enthusiastically tried “shucking” their oysters. The meal will continue with more seafood and often a capon for the main course. Many of the supermarkets run wine fayres during November and December which prove hugely popular with people carefully selecting their wine for the big occasion. Something we have learned here in France is that many of the bars and restaurants close for the Christmas holidays, which is an alien concept to us, so we have continued to open throughout right into the New Year. But there really isn’t any demand for Christmas Day. It means I can have a couple of glasses of lemonade after service on the 24th before falling into bed and not worrying about finding a large catering turkey. This year the end of year holiday season is going to be very different for many people and their favourite restaurant. In France we are not allowed to open until at least the 20th January 2021 following the latest restrictions placed on the hospitality industry in October.
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Dave Winteridge
To Tip or not to Tip?
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That is the question. Should you leave a tip regardless of the quality of service? How much is a good tip? Fixed amount or percentage? Does the service charge on the bill get shared with the staff? As you can see from the questions above, which is only a small number of the many more that I could ask, tipping is a contentious subject.
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In my experience within this beautiful business known as hospitality there are few subjects that cause more arguments amongst staff than tipping. Traditionally the tip is left on the table at the end of the meal and collected by the server but what happens with that money from thereon becomes complicated. Is the tip for service or should the kitchen receive a percentage? Surely without decent service and food from the kitchen the server could not have done their job efficiently. Some establishments will run a “tronc” system whereby all tips are pooled and either shared equally or by some predetermined formula. But some servers will discreetly pocket the whole amount believing that they alone contributed to the experience of those customers. If they are caught you are going to have one almighty bust-up! It is not just the staff who find tipping a contentious issue. I am sure we have all seen those whispered intense conversations between customers at the end of the meal. There are two standard arguments that seem to take place. Firstly, who’s paying the bill, particularly when you have two couples together. Often there is the false “rush” to get the bill paid while the other couple “protest”. Then comes the amount to leave for a tip.
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“How much do you think?” or, my favourite, “No, no, we don’t need to leave anything” (I will explain that one later!) But picture this scenario. Couple 1 has paid the bill so Couple 2 says they will leave the tip, it’s only fair. Couple 2 leave the table, put on their coats and head for the door, followed by Couple 1. But the “gentleman” (and it normally is!) from Couple 1 hangs back slightly, and before any servers can clear the table, he has pocketed the tip that has been left for the staff! Don’t tell me you’ve never seen it happen!! The practice of tipping varies across different countries. I started my hospitality career in England and I can honestly say that I did not see a tip for the first 5 years! As a trainee in a large hotel it appeared that all tips left in the restaurant belonged to the restaurant manager and all tips left following wedding receptions and other functions were either left at reception or discreetly given to the duty manager! The British have à stiff upper lip attitude to anything financial – and that is that it is considered bad manners to discuss money! We are a nation that has been raised to pay the exact amount of any purchase without argument or barter.
As we have become more cosmopolitan and now eat out more there is a general consensus that a maximum of 10% tip is sufficient, if the service has been good. I have seen customers work out 10% to the penny! I once employed a couple of Canadian waiters in my pub / restaurant near London. I had to physically prevent one of them from going after a group of 6 customers one evening because he felt the tip was not sufficient and wanted to know what he had done wrong. I understand that in Canada and the USA a 15% tip is standard and 20% is considered decent. However, here in France, where I now run a small restaurant, the practice of tipping has been legislated. We are obliged to state on our menus and drinks lists “service compris” (service included) and are allowed to state a percentage that is considered the service charge. This amount must be paid to employees. In reality what has happened is that customers are unhappy with service charges, so although menus state “service compris” it is unlikely à percentage has been added. But because service is included most French customers will not leave a tip. It also appears that many tourists are also confused about the etiquette regarding tipping in France. We often hear “No, it is not necessary”. Trust me, it may not be necessary but it is greatly appreciated! Unless of course the amount that is left is so paltry as to be considered insulting – but I am not getting into that here. So what about the legal side. The main involvement from the authorities is the tax office. All tips are considered taxable income and catering staff, hairdressers and taxi drivers etc should declare them on their tax return. If your establishment runs a “tronc” system for tips the “tronc master” is responsible for declaring for the purposes of tax the amount paid to staff members. I think we all know what happens in reality but there have been several legal cases pursued by the tax office. In conclusion, if you are a customer and you feel that your experience has been à good one then, please, leave something for the staff. If you are one of the many people that are the backbone of this wonderful industry then you will know how much a good tip is appreciated. But as a friend of mine famously said “You can’t drink a compliment”.
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Kayla EATON
Get a Mood Boost Through Food Photo by Daria Shevtsova from Pexels
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There is a possibility that before the end of the year, we will be placed under restrictions once again. This would be another chance to stop the spread of COVID-19. My family is already preparing because we know we have the responsibility to do our part. I live with high-risk people, and though I am not scared, I know my family is. Right now, New England is not only about to hit a second wave of the pandemic, but we are getting to our darkest and coldest time of year. This doesn’t help our mood. We become mean, grumpy, and now we have to stay away from our friends and extended family. None of it bodes well for mental health or happiness. However, research has shown the links between the food we eat and our moods. Our bodies are connected from mind to gut and more. The things we eat and consume really do affect us. Right now may be difficult, but eating specific foods may increase positive thoughts even when things seem dull.
Food Mood Boosters Kimchi or Kombucha What do these two things have in common? Fermentation! There is a chance that this process can improve gut health, which may also help boost your mood. During fermentation, probiotics are created; they are live microorganisms that promote serotonin levels throughout your body. So it really does help make those happy chemicals we want in our bodies during the winter! If kimchi and kombucha aren't your favorites, you can opt for other things like yogurt or sauerkraut. Anything fermented will go through the same process and allow you to reap the benefits.
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Beans or Lentils It is coming to the point where it is freezing outside, and you may want something to warm up with. Lentil soup can be one of the best ways to warm up and boost your mood. You might be wondering how lentils can improve your mood? They’re full of nutrients that will make your body happy. Both beans and lentils have a lot of B vitamins naturally found in them. These vitamins can help boost serotonin and dopamine levels throughout your body. On top of those, it can help regulate norepinephrine and gammaaminobutyric acid; both of those chemicals in your body help play a huge role in your mood.
Fish If you choose to eat fish, you will want to make sure it is fatty fish. You can choose something like salmon, mackerel, or even albacore. All of these are rich with Omega3s that have been linked to lowering levels of depression. Stay on top of your mood by adding fish to your dinners a few times a week. If you want something a little fun and eccentric, you can make a salmon omelet. Keep in mind there have been mixed results on whether or not salmon’s nutrients affect mood.
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Bananas These make a great quick snack but are also rich in nutrients that may improve your mood. There is a ton of natural sugar in bananas and fiber; these two things work well together. When sugar and fiber combine, they allow that sugar to be released slowly throughout the day, keeping your energy stable. It will not give you a sugar crash like a bar of chocolate. On top of that, each banana is jam-packed full of vitamin B6, which helps release your body's natural dopamine and boost your serotonin level. This is a serious winner in my book.
Naturally Boost Your Mood This Winter I know nobody wants to think about our uncertain future or what will happen, but finding ways to improve mental health and happiness will be crucial these next few years. We have no idea what will happen, and finding small ways that give us the chance to improve our mood will be essential. Let’s eat healthy together this winter.
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Dave Winteridge
Being All Things To All People
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The restaurant industry is massively competitive and there is an argument that for restaurants to capture as large a share as possible of the market they should try to cater to everyone. In other words, being all things to all people. But does it work? Either for the restaurant or the customer? I used to run a restaurant on Spain’s Costa Blanca, an incredibly competitive market but also a very fickle one. Our restaurant was on a strip of bars and restaurants all geared to attracting tourists. One of the restaurants near us was run by some Indian lads but they did not stop at Indian food. They had a long, rambling menu that included pizza, steak, fajitas and fish and chips, to name a few. Unfortunately, in my opinion, they had no identity and didn’t cook anything well. As you will know every nationality wants something different to eat and have very different palates. So as a tourist restaurant should you create a menu that caters to every possible taste in the hope that you will corner the market. My firm belief is no, but I understand why restaurants sometimes have menus running into multiple pages. I was recently talking to a restaurant in Dubai wanting to increase their business who’s menu ran to twenty pages. My first question to them was can you cut the menu, to which the reply was maybe to fifteen pages. Their rationale was that Dubai is a tourist hub with many nationalities and that if they were to compete they had to do as every other restaurant and offer everything. Looking at this as a restaurateur I am horrified. Imagine the wastage for a restaurant running at about 25% occupancy with a 20 page menu. The food percentage will be so low as to attract the interest of the tax office. My advice is always to have a shorter menu that is balanced with a variety of quality dishes that you will actually sell. Keep the fluff away! By changing a menu on a regular basis you will also keep your loyal customers interested, not to mention the kitchen crew. A shorter menu is obviously going to help with stock holding, stock turnover, gross profit and freshness of stock. If you really feel that you have to cater to everyone, what about a specials board with dishes from around the world that changes daily? fooddrinkmagazine.com I 47
As a customer I am also equally dubious about the restaurant that wants to be all things to all people. Firstly, I get bored reading through pages of menu descriptions. Maybe I have a low attention span but I am not alone. Secondly, I wonder how any of those dishes can be fresh. Is anyone cooking using fresh ingredients or is all the stock in the freezer? And finally, surely there are some dishes on that long menu that do not sell as well as others. What is lurking at the back of the fridge? I spend a lot of time reading menus when I am out. For me the restaurants that I would choose have a short well balanced menu. It is clear to see that certain ingredients have been used elsewhere in different dishes and that there is someone who has put some thought and love into the creation of the menu. It follows that there is a good chance that the same thought and love will go into the cooking. In short, do what you do and do it well.
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Dave Winteridge
Cod Fillet with Herb Crust and Tapenade 50 I fooddrinkmagazine.com
I love food to be full of flavour, elegant looking on the plate, but not so fussy that the flavours clash or too many different items on the plate. A good meal should arrive at the table hot and my worry is that with too many different ingredients to garnish a dish there is no way that the main item will stay hot. I also believe that it is important not to lose sight of what the actual dish is. For example, this dish is primarily about a fresh piece of cod and everything that accompanies it is to enhance the cod. Too many times dishes are over-complicated and the diner is left asking, "what is the dish about?"
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This dish of fresh cod with a herb crust garnished with a black olive tapenade, pea and mint puree and finished with a light butter sauce covers all the bases of flavour, presentation and ease of preparation. I have stated previously that I prefer to buy whole fish and filet them or portion them how I want them and then to use the head and bones for stock. If you are comfortable handling a whole cod - then go for it! Alternatively, buy the number of portions that you need, each one approximately 200 g in weight.
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To make 4 portions; 4 cod fillets (200 g each) Handful fresh parsley Fresh thyme leaves Fresh rosemary 12 - 15 green olives (stoned) Handful breadcrumbs Splash olive oil
The herbs that you choose to use are entirely up to you. I think that rosemary and thyme match cod very nicely and the parsley adds a good hit of colour without being overly pungent. Try basil and coriander or sage. You could even add some onion or garlic but be careful about overpowering the cod. Place all the ingredients (except the cod!) in a food processor and blitz until a paste is achieved. Take 2 sheets of baking/parchment paper and put the paste on one of them. Cover with the other sheet and roll flat to about 2mm thickness. The easiest way to deal with the crust now is to place it in the freezer until required. When you are ready to use the crust, cut a piece from the frozen sheet to match the size of your cod fillet, place over the top and cook for approximately 10 minutes in a preheated oven at 180C.
For the Tapenade; 75 g black olives (stoned) 6 - 8 anchovy fillets teaspoon capers 1 clove garlic splash olive oil Place all ingredients in a food processor and blitz.
For the Pea & Mint Puree; 1 portion cooked peas 10 -12 mint leaves Scant splash of cream Ideally using a hand held blender blend all the ingredients to make a smooth puree. You may need to add just a splash of the cooking water from the peas but do not over moisten the puree. To make the puree extra smooth pass it through a sieve to extract the pea skins. Arrange the cod in the centre of a warm plate, perhaps on top of a little mash, make a quenelle of the tapenade and smear or dot the pea purĂŠe.
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Dave Winteridge
Cod “Scotch” Eggs 54 I fooddrinkmagazine.com
We all know what a Scotch Egg is, that staple of the buffet table, breaded sausage meat in a ball with a hard boiled egg in the centre. Often dry, often tasteless. Well, forget that because these are going to blow your mind. A cod scotch egg with a deliciously creamy quail egg, runny yolk included! At the heart of these is a boiled quail egg and the casing is beautiful fresh cod and then they are bread crumbed and fried. They make a great starter but I like to serve them as a tapa with a home made relish of beetroot, radish and wholegrain mustard.
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To make 8 -10 you will need;
Add some seasoning to the cod and spoon in some mash a little at a time. The aim is to bind the cod not make mash potato with cod.
350g fresh cod fillet skinned and pin-boned 200ml fresh milk 2-3 potatoes mashed 8-10 quail eggs 20g butter salt, pepper, chopped parsley sprig of rosemary (optional) breadcrumbs
Bring a pan of water to the boil. Once boiling add your quail eggs. Boil for 3 minutes NO MORE! Ideally 2 minutes 45 seconds. As soon as the time has passed, put the eggs in a new bowl of cold water with some ice and a few drops of wine vinegar and peel the shells. I normally ask my wife to peel the eggs as her hands are smaller and more nimble than mine!!
Start by poaching your cod fillet gently in milk with the rosemary until the cod is just cooked and starting to flake.
In one hand scoop a little of the cod mixture, with the other roll an egg in some flour and place in the middle of the cod mixture. Now wrap the cod mixture round the egg and roll between your hands to make a ball ensuring that you have an even covering all the way round the egg. Repeat the process for the remaining eggs.
At the same time boil your potatoes until soft and ready for mashing. Remove the cod from the milk and flake it into a separate bowl. Once the potatoes are cooked mash them with the butter and enough of the milk to make a nice creamy consistency mash.
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To breadcrumb the scotch eggs - first roll in flour then in some egg wash and finally breadcrumbs. Deep fry for about 4 minutes at 180C until golden brown. For the relish - grate 1 cooked beetroot, grate 5-6 salad radishes and stir in 1 teaspoonful of wholegrain mustard. Add a little salt & pepper, stir well and serve.
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CHEF MING TSAI LAUNCHES MINGSBINGS, THE FIRST VEGGIE PATTY PACKED WITH WHOLE, NUTRIENT-DENSE SUPERFOODS Rooted in the belief that food is medicine for the body and soul, each veggie-filled Bing contains eight superfoods folded inside a brown rice wrapper. BOSTON November 17, 2020 – Chef Ming Tsai, a world-renowned Asian-American chef, restaurateur, cookbook author, James Beard Award winner, Emmy Award winner, and host of the longest-running cooking show on PBS, today announces the highly anticipated launch of his first consumer packaged superfood product, MingsBings. MingsBings are easy-toprepare veggie-filled patties that are vegan, gluten-free, food allergen-friendly, packed with whole vegetables, and are available for purchase online nationwide today. Based on tradition, Chef Tsai transports the Bing from the Ming dynasty to the 21st century with a modern, delicious, healthy twist. Each ingredient was meticulously chosen for its unique flavor and health benefits, then folded into a glutenfree brown rice wrapper. Packed with 8 superfoods including edamame, watercress, pepitas, garlic, ginger, red onion, shiitake mushrooms, and brown rice, this new-age veggie patty has all the flavor and convenience of a delicious burger without the need for a carb-heavy bun. “I have spent my entire career studying and practicing the ancient Asian philosophies surrounding ‘food as medicine.’ With MingsBings, I want to provide accessibility to plant-centric eating in an affordable, tasty, and sustainable way,” says Chef Ming Tsai, Founder of MingsBings. “My diet is centered around consuming a variety of foods I know will naturally support my immune system, lower inflammation, and help me live a longer fuller life. Everyone deserves that same opportunity; that’s my goal with MingsBings.” 83% of Americans are focusing on improving their health by transitioning to more plant-based alternatives, driving growth in an increasingly fragmented market (1). This lack of clear market leadership is sowing confusion around which products are best due to general dissatisfaction with flavor and texture. The plant-based food market will more than double over the next 5 years, making it a $55B market by 2024 (1), creating an enormous opportunity for MIngsBings to disrupt and expand the Veggie Patty category while also helping veg-curious flexitarians transition into more plant-based meal choices. According to Nielsen reports, Americans increased spending by +40% in the frozen aisle, a $15.5 billion spending increase during the COVID-19 pandemic (2).
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NEWS
How to Hire Best-in-Class Restaurant Staff During COVID vThe food service industry is dependent on great workers and exceptional service, from back of house food prep to front of house hosts and servers. To deliver, you need first-class restaurant staff. Your workers are a huge asset, but hiring and retaining talent remains one of the biggest challenges of running a successful restaurant. The hospitality industry has been forced to adapt and adhere to guidelines and restrictions put in place to help combat COVID-19. Restaurants in 2020 look different with proper social distancing enforced and QR codes in lieu of traditional menus. Restaurant owners and management have shown their versatility as they reopen and pivot their services to comply with local guidance. A challenge, more prevalent now than ever, is staffing. With COVID-19 guidance for food workers & restaurants continuously changing, the number of workers you need any given day is hard to estimate. Fortunately, there is a solution. The restaurant industry can turn to temporary restaurant workers to fill in during peak times to support bringing customers back through the doors. How to Hire Best-in-Class Restaurant Staff During COVID By: GigSmart GigSmart Whether you’re fine dining bistro looking for a sous chef, a popular restaurant chain in need of additional front of the house staff, a catering company looking for additional servers, or a pizza chain looking for delivery drivers, GigSmart can connect you with hourly, skilled food and beverage professionals to meet your business needs. What is Get Workers? Get Workers instantly matches businesses that are hiring with individuals looking for work. There are over 100,000 food service and hospitality workers already on Get Workers, who are ready to help at a moment’s notice. Here are 5 good reasons to try Get Workers today: You’re in charge. You set the hourly rate for your workers, decide the number of people you need, and the date and time you need them. We match you with qualified professionals that align with the skills you list in your post. Once you accumulate a pool of applicants, you review potential workers and select who to hire. Find certificated, background checked workers. Before you hire, you can make sure applicants have the required training, license, or certifications to meet your needs. You can also add worker background or motor vehicle records (MVR) checks as a prerequisite to your application. Source workers ASAP. We can help you find workers right when you need them. You can schedule shifts up to 30 days in advance, or you can source ASAP workers if you need help immediately. Get Workers can source applicants within minutes, and have a worker on-site in under an hour. Protect your workers. Every worker you hire is protected by Occupational Accident Insurance (OAI) at no cost to you. Pay the lowest fees in the industry. Starting at just 15% of the hourly rate you set, our sourcing fees help you save money compared to other temporary hiring agencies or staffing platforms. Create a Get Workers Account If you haven’t already, create a Get Workers account by visiting getworkers.gigsmart.com or downloading our mobile apps for iOS or Android. Next, you’ll need to create a free Gig post to source workers for your restaurant position(s). GigSmart connects you to restaurant staff via skills matching. We know every restaurant Gig is a little different and may require various skill sets. Post specific and informative Gigs. Include the types of skills you require your workers to have, which could include: Cook, Hostess, Bartender, Food Server, Dishwashers, Delivery Drivers and more. The Gigs that you post should include relevant specifics regarding job description and schedule requirements. Wait For Applicants While other solutions often use algorithms to find workers, Get Workers, gives you complete control over the hiring process and ultimately, who you hire. You will be notified as soon as qualified hourly workers apply. You can review their profiles, ratings and reviews, and applicant questionnaires. You can check references and certifications (for example a TIPS certification), and even use in-app messaging to confirm the worker meets your expectations. Once you feel confident it is time to hire. Cook it, Shake it, Serve it Once the date of the Gig arrives, you can use the Get Workers app to easily manage each temporary worker you hire. You’ll want to start their Gig clock when they arrive at your job site. They can pause their clock at any time should they need to take a break for lunch or to rest. Once the job is completed, you’ll end their Gig clock, which will take you to a Gig Summary screen. Here you can review all of the details of your Gig, like the total time worked. If they did a great job, you can even add additional payment in the form of a tip. Lastly, we’ll ask you to provide a worker rating (from 1-5 stars), and we’ll give you the option to leave additional comments about the worker. We also ask each worker you hire to leave you a rating and review as well. These community ratings and reviews help people find the best worker or requester for future Gigs. When it comes to opening a restaurant smoothly and running it successfully, temporary restaurant staff can help you run the show. Get Workers makes it easy to find, hire, and manage workers for all your restaurant’s needs.
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