Food Wine Travel Magazine, The Road Trips Issue by foodwinetravelmagazine

December 2020

the road trips issue 1

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letter from the editor As 2020 comes to its end—and not soon enough for most of us —we all are probably hoping for a return to normal. The COVID-19 vaccine, which should begin its roll-out sometime this week, will hopefully allow us all to return to traveling and eating out and enjoying time with friends and family by mid-2021. While it seems impossible that we were not able to travel much this year, many of our writers traveled in their own backyards and, in a few cases, beyond. We have all found out that there is beauty all around us. From the beaches and lakes of California to the small towns and Keys of Florida; from the wineries in the midwest to those dotting the west; from the gardens of the Brandywine Valley of Southeastern Pennsylvania and Northern Delaware to towns deep in the heart of Texas; on the Natchez Trace in the south to the Suffragette Trail in the north; from South Dakota to Las Vegas (New Mexico, not Nevada) to Friday Harbor to Montana and more, there is much to enjoy close to home. We’re not stopping there, though. Some of our members take us on international road trips to taste wine in Chile, drives through Thailand and South Africa, a trip through Spain, and a boat trip to a pearl farm in Mexico. We’ll even share a road-trip playlist to make your car time more enjoyable, and reasons why we should continue traveling even in this difficult time. We hope that you enjoy the ride with us and that we inspire you to check out the world around you. The editors and writers of Food, Wine, Travel Magazine send you our warmest wishes for all the magic, all the peace, and all the joy of the season. Stay safe!

Chris Christine Cutler Executive Editor

On the cover: The Road From Segesta ©Christine Cutler

Magazine Layout & Design Christine Cutler

Editorial Board

Debbra Dunning Brouilette David Drotar MaryFarah Irene Levine Kathy Merchant

David Nershi Robyn Nowell Amy Piper Jan Smith

Contributing Writers/Photographers LM Archer Michael Cullen MaryRose Denton Robin Dohrn-Simpson Elsa Dixon Betsi Hill Noreen Kompanik Debi Lander Kathy Merchant Nancy Mueller Rose Palmer Jan Smith Suzanne Stavert Bel Woodhouse

Gary Baker Christine Cutler MaryAnn DeSantis Mary Farah Joeann Fossland Scott Kendall Sharon Kurtz Elaine Masters Deirdre Michalski Elizabeth Orient Barbara Redding Cori Solomon Priscilla Willis

All articles & photographs are copyright of writer unless otherwise noted. No part of this publication may be reproduced without express written permission. Contact Us|

Editor: chris@fwtmagazine.com IFWTWA: admin@ifwtwa.org Visit our website: fwtmagazine.com

Table of Contents 3 From the Editor 6 Keys to the Keys—America’s Overseas Highway 10 Two Traditional Wine Regions of Chile 14 Road Tripping – Kanchanaburi, Thailand 20 Road Trip Weekend: San Diego to Lake   Arrowhead 24 The Ultimate Northwest Road Trip Playlist 27 United States of Wine: Midwest Urban Wineries 31 Exploring On and Off the Natchez Trace 36 Road Trip Back to The Wild West 38 Road Tripping Through Florida 42 A Spectacular Road Trip Through South Dakota 44 Why Continuing with Travel Plans in the Age of   COVID-19 is Important 47 Santa Barbara to Paso Robles: A Wine-Tasting   Road Trip 52 From the Highveld to the Lowveld—A Road Trip  Along South Africa’s Panorama Route 55 3 Sustainable Getaways in Oregon Wine Country

58 Road Tripping Texas Style—Exploring Three Trip-  Worthy Towns in the Lone Star State 62 Driving the Wyoming Suffragette Trail 66 Riding in Cars with Turistas: My Road Trip   through Málaga and Seville, Spain 70 Road Trip to the LBJ Ranch in Stonewall, Texas 73

Top 7 “Not to Miss” Adventures in Newport Beach

New Braunfels— A Shining Star in the Texas Hill Country

80 Boat Tripping to Find the Caribbean’s Greatest   Hidden Treasure 82 8 Must-Sees on California’s Highway One 84 Highway 395:Gateway to the Eastern Sierra   Nevada Mountain 87 Roadtripping Through the Brandywine Valley   Gardens 91 On an Incoming Tide, We Arrive in Friday   Harbor,The Gateway to the San Juan Islands 94 Day Tripping to Lompoc & Santa Barbara County   for a Taste of Good Wine 98 The Ultimate Road Trip—a photo essay in B&W

Keys to the America’s Overseas Highway By Mary Ann DeSantis

Key West for me was a tropical island paradise. – Gloria Swanson

Photo:Pigeon Key is a 5-acre island nestled beneath what is now called the Old Seven Mile Bridge. Courtesy of Florida Keys News Bureau/Florida Keys.com

Keys:

o you need a “change in latitude, a change in attitude,” so aptly described by singer/songwriter Jimmy Buﬀett who famously made Key West his home for many years? If so, you are headed in the right direction. Musicians, writers, artists, actors, industry titans and average everyday folks have all journeyed down U.S.1 in pursuit of the laid-back Keys lifestyle While Key West is the end of the road, the Overseas Highway from Key Largo to Key West – a little over 100 miles – is a destination unto itself. With so many things to see and do, it’s going to take more than one drive along this officially designated All-American Highway to experience them all. And, of course, you really should plan to spend at least one night on the road. A key tip for navigating the Overseas Highway is to pay attention to Mile Markers (MM). Locals will point you toward the green Mile Marker signs when you ask for directions. Mile Marker 0 in Key West is the farthest point south and the end of this incredible journey. In the meantime, I’ve added the Mile Marker designation next to each of the attractions described in this story so you can easily find them. Here are a few of my favorite stops on one of America’s most scenic road trips. So, turn on your favorite Buﬀett tunes and let’s get started.

Diving into Paradise

John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park  (MM 102.5) pennekamppark.com  After maneuvering through Miami traﬃc, take a break at Key Largo, the first and largest island in the chain of keys. The John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park and adjacent Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary are well known for their diving and snorkeling, and many tourists never make it any farther south than this well-used camping paradise. If you prefer to stay dry, climb aboard a glass-bottom boat to Molasses Reef. Land lovers can enjoy short nature trails, two man-made beaches, picnic areas, and a snack bar.

Florida Keys Wild Bird Center (MM 93.6) • fkwbc.org  Supported entirely by donations, the Florida Keys Wild Bird Center rescues injured, sick, and orphaned birds with the goal of returning them to their natural habitats. However, that is not always possible if a fowl is missing a wing or eye, so the center has permanent exhibits where the non-releasable birds live. Meander along the boardwalk where hawks, ospreys, owls, egrets, and others act as educational ambassadors for their species. I recommend timing your visit for the 3:30 p.m. feeding of the pelicans. Pelicans surrounded visitors in every direction, but do not be tempted to reach down and pet them. As the trainer told me, “nothing gets in the way of pelicans and their fish, including fingers.”

Robbie’s Marina (MM 77.5) • robbies.com  If the kids are getting restless in the backseat or if you are feeling the need to buy some kitschy souvenirs, Robbie’s Marina on Lower

Matecumbe Key is a good place to take a break. Vendors at this roadside attraction provide everything from painted coconut heads and T-shirts to stainless steel wall sculptures. The real event, though, is a chance to feed tarpons from Robbie’s dock.

Marathon: Halfway to Key   Weﬆ

Florida Keys Aquarium Encounters (MM 53) •   floridakeysaquariumencounters.com

Pigeon Key (MM 48) • pigeonkey.net

One of the newest attractions on U.S.1 is the Florida Keys Aquarium Encounters, a unique interactive attraction that promotes conservation and education in a fun, natural environment. Several hands-on experiences simulate what it would be like to go diving on one of the oﬀshore reefs in the Keys. Or, you can stay dry in the tiki-type structures that house exhibits and touch-tanks. The real eyepopping exhibit is the 200,000-gallon salt water tank where visitors can snorkel or dive with local reef fish. Through educational endeavors and its admission fees, this unique facility aims to protect the natural resources and the fragile marine environments found in the Florida Keys.

When I first saw this tiny island lying in the shadow of the Seven-Mile Bridge, I wondered how people got there. Ferries from the Pigeon Key Visitors Center shuttle guests to the five-acre island, which was used extensively during the filming of the 1994 m o v i e Tr u e L i e s. Ac t o r A r n o l d Schwarzenegger was so enamored with the setting that he considered buying the island. The largest structure contains a museum and an extensive collection of old photographs from the days when the island served as a work camp for Flagler’s railroad.

Spanish for “Deep Bay,” Bahia Honda State Park has an overlook from the first span of the original Flagler train bridge. The panoramic view of the island and

The Turtle Hospital (MM 48.5) • turtlehospital.org  One of my personal favorite places is the world’s only

certified veterinary hospital for sea turtles. This acclaimed attraction educates the public about this endangered species. The hospital rescues and rehabilitates injured and sick turtles and is able to return most of them to the sea. A non-profit corporation, the Marathon Turtle Hospital oﬀers several daily tours by reservation only.

Bahia Honda State Park (MM 36.8)   • bahiahondapark.com

surrounding waters is breathtaking and one that should not be missed. The biggest draw, however, is Sandspur Beach, named one of Florida’s best beaches by several national magazines and travel sites. Don’t miss the Sand & Sea Nature Center at the west end of the park. The nature trails and the beach attract numerous butterflies, including the nearly extinct Miami Blue butterfly.

Stock Island for Fresh Seafood and Botanical   Gardens  The last Key before crossing over the Cow Channel Bridge into Key West is Stock Island. For years, locals have known this was the place for the freshest seafood in the Keys, minus the exorbitant tourist prices. Many of the fishing boats dock there, and you will rub elbows with boat captains and sailors who know Stock Island’s Front Street is the place for

seafood and fish that were swimming in the water only a few hours earlier. It can’t get any fresher than that.

Key West Tropical Forest & Botanical Garden   (MM3) • www.keywest.garden   Also on Stock Island are the lovely botanical gardens, which began as a Depression-era tourist attraction in the 1930s and serve as a peaceful respite from the Duval Street crowds, the main tourist area in downtown Key West.

Driving into Key West   Now that you’ve crossed into Key West, the best thing will be to park your car and explore the city on foot or by trolley. Save your gas for the return trip to Miami and plan to see all the places you missed along America’s Overseas Highway.

Photos (opposite left-right): Look east for sunrise; look west for sunset. You can see both along the Overseas Highway. Don’t miss the “early bird” feeding at the Florida Keys Wild Bird Center in Tavernier. ©Tony DeSantis; A snorkeler examines the "Christ of the Deep" statue in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary off Key Largo; A Turtle Hospital staffer, right, shows visitors to the center a female green sea turtle that underwent treatment for intestinal ailments; You’ve reached the end of the road at Mile Marker 0 – or the beginning if you are headed back north; The Marathon Turtle Hospital ambulance in Marathon; (this page): Visitors to Robbie's Marina in Islamorada can hand feed tarpon right off the dock; Duck Key is a great break if you are not driving all the way to Key West in one day. Check out the kayaks at Hawks Cay Resort. Photo courtesy Hawks Cay; A Great White Heron perches on a mangrove tree at the Florida Keys Wild Bird Center; Seven Mile Bridge was completed in 1982 after four years of construction and connects Marathon and the Lower Florida Keys; The old train trestle at Bahia Honda State Park is a remnant of Henry Flagler's Over-Sea Railway that was destroyed in a 1935 hurricane. © Mary Ann DeSantis; Key Lime Pie is the quintessential dessert in the Keys. Be sure to sample a few different ones on your road trip.

Unless otherwise noted, photos courtesy of Florida Keys News Bureau/Florida keys.com;

Two Traditional Wine Regions of Chile

By Gary Baker

tretching 2900 miles from north to south, Chile oﬀers some of the most diverse landscape on earth. Its temperate climate is chilled by daily breezes from the cold Pacific Ocean to the west and the towering Andes Mountains to the east. Because of its physical isolation from the rest of the continent, there are very few vine diseases and pests, enabling a more organic approach to grape growing. The country’s grape growing conditions are ideal, while the cost of labor and vineyard land is reasonable. Today, Chile ranks sixth among wineproducing countries. With grapevines planted by European immigrants in the 1600s, Chile has developed over the centuries into a diverse and well-stocked powerhouse of flavorful reds. Cabernet Sauvignon is Chile’s most planted grape. But Carmenére, all but forgotten in its Bordeaux homeland, is Chile’s signature grape. Other Bordeaux varieties have also found a home here. These wines score highly in wine magazine ratings. Every year, a handful of stellar releases rank among the world’s best wines and yet remain a good value. The Colchagua and Maipo Valleys are two large and historic grape growing regions in central Chile. The Colchagua Valley lies about 100 miles south of Santia go and benefits f rom an almost ideal Mediterranean climate. The Maipo Valley is on the southern outskirts of Santiago, north of Colchagua, but still oﬀers a mild climate of warm days and cool nights. Large corporate wineries dominate these regions but consistently deliver quality wine. In fact, Chiles’ largest winery, Concha y Toro, is located in the Maipo Valley. However, some of the oldest family-owned wineries still exist. So, if you go, here’s a mix of both for your enjoyment.

Viu Manent  T h e Vi u f a m i l y h a s been producing wines for more than 80 years through sustainable viticulture practices and continuously manage the oldest vineyards planted in the Colcha gua Val ley. A white walled, tiled roof fortress is your first impression when you arrive. But seated in the shade under ancient grape vines at an outdoor tasting table, your comfort level increases. It’s here that we sampled a selection of several delightful wines. The 2014 Reserve Merlot, with aromas and flavors of plums and a soft, round finish, was particularly enjoyable. Tour of the vineyard, with guided tastings, are available aboard old horse-drawn carriages or electric bicycles. An arena for horse jumping events lies nearby on its spacious grassy fields. The winery’s onsite restaurant, Rayuela, specializes in grilled meats and fish. The food and wine pairing provides a good opportunity to try more of Viu wine while enjoying a light lunch.

Neyen  With a large ranch house style, tiled roof adobe, fronted by a massive garden of beautiful white roses, Neyen provides an inviting setting. Its historic and rustically quaint bodega is one of the oldest in the Colchagua Valley. Juxtaposed to a large concrete, yet m o d e r n w i n e m a k i n g f a c i l i t y, t h e w i n e r y ’s comfortable cellar tasting room is supported by massive wooden beams dating from the 1890s, and walls painted festively with faded grape clusters.

Today, Chile ranks sixth among wineproducing countries.

We sampled the 2014 Spirit of Neyen, a classic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenére. With complex aromas of raspberry and black currant, the palate was fresh and elegant with smooth tannin in a persistent finish. The winery encourages visitors to have lunch at its onsite restaurant or enjoy a field day tour of the Apalta Nature Reserve with a picnic basket prepared by the winery’s kitchen.

Vina Marquis  Among the lily padded ponds and vineyards, with grapevines tall enough that you can walk under, flora and fauna abound throughout Vina Marquis’ open habitat and winery grounds. At the confluence of two rivers in the Colchagua Valley, the flow of abundant water has sustained these vineyards for centuries.

Photo: Tasting a flight of wines at Vina Maquis ©Rebecca Sturges

Originally founded and planted in the 16th century by Jesuit priests, the winery is owned and has been operated by the Hurtado family for four generations. Today the wine is made in a huge modern facility using artisanal methods to let the wine express the characteristics and personality of the grapes. In a modern glass-enclosed tasting room, next to an art museum and lengthy barrel aging room, we sampled three reds and one rosé. The 2016 Cabernet Franc was worth every one of the 90 points rating. With blackberry flavors on the palate it finished smoothly in spite of its sturdy tannin structure. No surprise as the winery is known for producing the first iconic cabernet franc from Chile.

Vina Santa Rita  This winery, founded in the 1880’s in the Maipo Valley, is part of the old town of Santa Rita. This heritage complex has close to 1,500 years of history.

The wine here reflects the vineyards that have been sustainably farmed for 135 years. A luxury boutique hotel, Casa Real, stands in the midst of a 40-acre park and welcomes guests to the estate. At the winery entrance, two huge palm trees greet you alongside an impressively long white stanchioned portico that supports an endless tiled roof over the entire facility. A pedal bar tour of the winery’s outdoor, park-like setting, and vineyards is a fun and relaxing way to enjoy the grounds. In the tasting room, enormous stone walls and giant wooden beams surround a well-lit, modern looking tasting counter. Although most Chilean wineries feature their red varietals and Vina Santa Rita has several, we tasted an exciting white. The 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Central Valley 120 Reserva, with its well-defined flavors of blood orange and lemongrass in a slightly ripe style, is soft and spicy in the finish.

Lattes, espressos and chocolates are available in La Panaderia Café which opens onto an outdoor dirt/ granite patio with umbrella shaded table seating.

Concha y Toro  Located in the Maipo Valley, Concha y Toro is Chiles’ largest winery. To make matters larger, in 1990, it formed a joint venture with Bordeaux’s Chateau Mouton-Rothchild to make fine wines that reflect the traditional characteristics of both France and Chile. The classically traditional, trellised entrance to the winery and Lourdes Estate grounds leads to formal columns of the yellow and white trimmed main house and garden fountain. Demonstration grapevines with small signs on them identify their varietal type and help visitors get acquainted easily with what is grown at this winery established in 1883. A steep set of tiled steps leads down into the darkened Casillero Del Diablo, “the devil’s basement.” Surrounded by superstition and projected film images and, of course, some historical

facts, this large cellar is actually for barrel aging wines in the coolest, yet scariest of ways. Our tasting in the Casillero Del Diablo was guided by a sommelier and accompanied by a selection of fine cheeses paired specifically to the wines. A perennial top scorer, the Estate 2016 Puente Alto Cabernet Sauvignon-based red blend tasted like an elegant mix of dark fruit, and dried red fruit with herbal flavors. It had a minerally finish that was long and rich tasting. The winery has a wine bar, wine shop and full restaurant. Additionally, it oﬀers five diﬀerent tasting tours so visitors can sample the huge, comprehensive selection of reserve, premier and ultra-premium wines made here.

Historic Regions for Classic Wines  As these tastings reveal, Chilean vintners are still finding success today by focusing on historic vineyards. These two singularly dominant wine regions continuously produce varietal products that have pleased the palates of wine lovers for decades. For now, some of the best Chilean varietals remain classics in the making – vibrant and expressive in character and reflective of their origins. If you love to travel to taste good wines, then the traditional wine regions of Chile belong on your list.

Photos (opposite/clockwise): Sign for Rayuela Wine and Grill, Viu Manent’s onsite restaurant; Rayuela Restaurant in the shade under ancient grape vines at Viu Manent; Grape vines so tall you can walk underneath them at Vina Maquis; Serene lily ponds, along with plenty of other flora and fauna, grace the grounds of Vina Maquis; (This page/clockwise): Two palm trees flank the entrance to the winery; Horse jumping arena on Viu Manent’s grassy fields; Horse drawn wagon awaits visitors to tour the vineyard property at Viu Manent; Assortment of wines at Viu Manent All photos © Rebecca Sturges

Scenic Rail @ Wang Po Viaduct, â&#x20AC;¨ River Khwae Yai

Road Tripping â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Kanchanaburi, Thailand By Michael Cullen

hailand is ideal for road tripping, thanks to excellent highway systems. With 1,200 miles from north to south and 2,000 miles of coast, road trip opportunities abound when exploring the ‘Land of Smiles’ lush countryside and beautiful shorelines. One of my favourite road trips is Kanchanaburi City and Province just two hours west of Bangkok. ‘The Bridge Over the River Kwai’ book and movie introduced international audiences to this region. Both dramatized the construction of the Thai-Burma (Death) Railway during the Second World War. This war history is reason enough to visit. Though look deeper into this enormous province for waterfalls, caves, lakes, hot springs, river rafting, jungle trekking, camping, canoeing, birdwatching, mountain biking, ancient Khmer ruins, impressive Buddhist temples, and much more. Kanchanaburi has it in abundance.

Kanchanaburi City  Kanchanaburi city sits at the confluence of the Khwae Noi and Khwae Yai rivers, and its riverside hotels and guesthouses make an ideal base. Note ‘Kwai’ as used in the book and movie titles is the anglicized version of Khwae. Here are my recommendations within Kanchanaburi and branching out to provincial attractions.

Thai-Burma (Death) Railway   As the Asia Pacific component of WW2 continued, Japanese forces needed a safe and eﬃcient land route from south-east Asia to its militaries in Burma and the Indian Ocean, thus avoiding allied navies. The construction of a 250-mile railway line from Bangkok to Rangoon in Burma (Myanmar) commenced in 1942 using an approximated workforce of over a quartermillion comprising conscripted locals and 140,000 British, Australian, Dutch and American prisoners of war (POW). Due to the enforced extreme working conditions, over 100,000 died in the railway’s construction - mainly of sickness, malnutrition and exhaustion: all buried in unmarked graves along the rail line. I’d recommend first-time visitors check out the Thailand-Burma Railway Centre in Kanchanaburi city as this museum and research centre details the Death Railway’s construction while providing a sensitive appreciation of how thousands of POWs died. Once finished, cross the road to the Kanchanaburi War Cemetery which contains the remains of 6982

Photos (top to bottom): Kanchanaburi War Cemetery; Bridge over River Khwae Yai late afternoon; Scenic Rail train crossing bridge over River Khwae Yai

Allied POWs. Poignantly, many of the gravestones are simply marked “Known Only To God.” A few miles away, the smaller Chungkai War Cemetery hosts a further 1750 Commonwealth and Dutch POWs resting in eternal peace.

Bridge Over The River Kwai & Scenic Railway  Kanchanaburi city is home to one of Thailand’s most famous, and perhaps most photographed bridges, the POW-built bridge spanning the River Khwae Yai. Time your visit for the Scenic Rail train crossing and use the ‘step oﬀ points’ on the bridge to view the train up close. This Scenic Railway train travels a leisurely 40 miles out from Kanchanaburi through farmlands and villages along a restored section of the original Thailand-Burma line to Nam Tok station before returning. The train’s wooden bench seats and rusty old ceiling fans add to the character, though its open windows make for easy photography as it lumbers along. A highlight is Saphan Tham Krasae Station where the train slows to a crawl as it crosses the precariouslooking cliﬀ-side Wang Pho (or Death Valley) Viaduct. On one side, the sheer rock wall towers within touching distance, with a vertical drop down to the river and impressive views out the other side of the train. Many visitors alight here to explore Tham Krasae, a small cave while they wait for the return train. Alternately, you can catch (private or public) transport back.

Northwest of Kanchanaburi  Route 323, to Kanchanaburi’s northwest, loosely follows the Khwae Noi River and on to Three Pagodas Pass on the Thai-Burma border. You don’t need to travel that far to take in the stops I recommend.

Prasat Muang Singh Historical Park

Photos (top to bottom): Prasat Muang Singh Historical Park © Tourism Authority of Thailand; Hellfire Pass Museum © Tourism Authority of Thailand; Konyu Cutting @ Hellfire Pass Museum © Tourism Authority of Thailand

Prasat Muang Singh Historical Park marked the western border of the vast Khmer Kingdom back in the 12th to 14th centuries. This restored archaeological site sits in a relaxed setting surrounded by open forest beside the Khwae Noi River. The central temples and surrounding structures are quite distinctive thanks to the rusty-red coloured laterite stones used in construction. A small museum exhibits several artefacts discovered on-site, including Buddha images. Here is ancient Khmer (Cambodian) history in the far west of Thailand and worth an hour or so of your time.

Hellfire Pass  Funded and managed by the Australian government, the Hellfire Pass Memorial Museum provides an opportunity to appreciate why Allied POWs named

this section, Konyu Cutting, of the Thai-Burma railway “Hellfire Pass”. During construction of the Death Railway, the workers needed to make numerous rock cuttings to lay track along steep mountain slopes. Konyu Cutting is the largest and, arguably, the most challenging stretch. Many museum visitors only see the highly interactive and moving displays and associated viewpoint. Those taking the stairs down into the cutting discover a 120yard-long corridor, hewn 56-foot-deep into the rock. As you walk where tracks once laid reaching the end of this first passage, the serenity surrounds you. A sense of reverence you only feel in places of worship overtakes. In remembrance, some visitors leave flags and flowers along the cutting and commemorative plaque found at the end.

Sai Yok National Park  One further stop if time permits is Sai Yok National Park, twelve miles on from Hellfire Pass. The main attractions are Sai Yok Yai and Sai Yok Lek waterfalls, which plummet eight to ten metres into the river.

North of Kanchanaburi  Highway 3199 runs north from Kanchanaburi and east of the Khwae Yai river to Erawan National Park and onto Sri Nakharin Reservoir and surrounding national park.

Erawan National Park  Thirty-three miles from Kanchanaburi, the very popular Erawan National Park sprawls over 550 square miles of the Salop mountains. While bird watchers, orchid hunters and cave enthusiasts could keep busy within the park for weeks, most come specifically for Erawan Waterfall, a multi-tiered set of falls named after the divine three-headed god of the elephants. The trail, from the start to the top tier is nearly 1 mile, with the first two tiers most easily accessible. Each level has emerald-green pools with swimming permitted. Freshwater minnow shoal in most pools, so sit still in the water and experience a free fish spa as they pick at your dead skin. As one of Thailand’s most popular, it’s impossible to avoid the crowds at Erawan Falls, so I recommend arriving early morning, avoiding weekends and national holidays.

Sri Nakharin National Park  Sri Nakharin Reservoir and national park is a further 28 miles on from Erawan and does make for a 125 mile round trip from Kanchanaburi. A key attraction is Huai Mae Khamin, a seven-tier waterfall flowing down some 1.1 miles of hillside blanketed in bamboo and banyan trees. Said to rival or better Erawan, without the crowds.

Photos (top to bottom): Huai Mae Khamin Waterfall at Sri Nakharin NP © Tourism Authority of Thailand; Erawan Waterfall Tier 1 at Erawan NP © Tourism Authority of Thailand; Earwan Waterfall Tier 3 at Erawan NP ©Michael Cullen; Opposite Page: Elephant Haven © Tourism Authority of Thailand.jpg

Ethical Elephant Encounters  Used in ancient time to carry kings and noble warriors into battle and until the 1980s to help clear forests for logging and other such labour, Asian elephants have long been part of life in this part of the world. Most recently, captured and trained elephants have been used for entertainment and carrying tourists trekking. Attitudes are changing, and Thailand has a growing number of sanctuaries where rescued elephants can now live without chains or saddles and the demands of a working life. Visitors to these sanctuaries can learn about these gentle giants’ history and welfare. The Kanchanaburi region has two such shelters—Elephant World off Highway 3199 as you head to Erawan, and Elephant Haven off Route 323 just past Prasat Muang Singh Historical Park. Both offer either half-day, day or longer experiences where you assist these pachyderms in their daily life. I’ve covered some of my Kanchanaburi highlights. With your own transport, there is so much more to see and experience as you road trip around this region.

Road Trip Weekend:

San Diego to Lake Arrowhead By Noreen Kompanik

uthor Marty Rubin once said, “Travel doesn’t become an adventure until you leave yourself behind.” Lake Arrowhead, California is just the place to do that.

wood accents and stunning views of the San Bernardino National Forest landscape and Lake Arrowhead. Slumber comes easy here in this quiet lakeside paradise.

Nestled in the majestic mountains of the San Bernardino National Forest, the quaint haven of Lake Arrowhead, with its incredible scenery and natural beauty, is an outdoor lover's nirvana and one of California’s best-kept secrets.

BIN 189, the onsite restaurant serves contemporary American cuisine for breakfast, lunch, and dinner with both indoor and outdoor seating sporting scenic lake views. Aromas Café is perfect for grabbing a coﬀee, quick sandwich, or healthy smoothie.

Often referred to as the Alps of S o u t h e r n C a l i f o r n i a , L a ke Arrowhead oﬀers activities and attractions for every season of the year. Though it's only a 3-hourdrive from San Diego, getting there is half the fun. Thank goodness for the many turn-oﬀs on the route as our “honey, stop the car" moments provided one picture-perfect mountain vista after the other.

Travel doesn’t become an adventure until you leave yourself behind.

Once in Lake Arrowhead, we felt as though we entered a completely diﬀerent world. It’s ~ deep crystalline azure-mountain lake, verdant landscapes, fresh alpine air, and slower pace are a welcome respite from a busier hectic lifestyle.

Nature is the star of the show here, and there are so many ways to explore and drink in the majesty of this mile-high outdoor paradise with an elevation of 5,200-feet. Just steps from the resort, the Swiss-chalet inspired, easily walkable Lake Arrowhead Village sports numerous specialty shops, art galleries, fine dining and entertainment.

Marty Rubin

Where to Stay in Lake Arrowhead  Visitors coming to the area have several choices of accommodations ranging from campgrounds and rustic cabins to private villas, inns, and lakeside resorts. Because of its ideal location and awesome amenities, our favorite place to stay is the Lake Arrowhead Resort and Spa. Guests have direct access to the private lake, stunning views, a private beach area, an outdoor pool, hot tubs, and state-of-the-art fitness facility. The quintessential mountain retreat is the ideal blend of rustic elegance and modern comfort. Guest rooms feature mountain-themed decor with natural

Where to Play on the Lake

A trip to the lake isn’t complete without a view from the water, and there’s no more leisurely way to experience the lake, explore its fascinating scenery and stunningly beautiful homes than onboard the Lake Arrowhead Queen. This charming paddle-wheeler is a must-do and their 60minute, live narrated tour is informative and entertaining. Great news for dog-lovers as our furry friends are more than welcome aboard. Summer on the lake brings out the water-skiing enthusiasts, but other year-round activities here include dock fishing, charter fishing, and guided

Photos (opposite): Roadtrip Views to Lake Arrowhead; Lake Arrowhead Resort view from our room; Lake Arrowhead views; Boating on Lake Arrowhead; (this page): Hiking Near Lake Arrowhead; Lake Arrowhead Queen; Deep Creek Hot Springs

San Bernardino Mountains outside of Lake Arrowhead

kayaking, and paddleboard tours. I have to say that as lake kayaking goes, this is one of mine and my family’s favorite places to paddle.

directional mountain bike trails for both beginners and advanced riders.

Where to Hike in the Mountains

For non-hikers, one of the best views is from the San Bernardino Valley Strawberry Peak Fire Lookout Tower. A two-mile paved-drive oﬀ the main highway gets you to the base of the tower. Climbing the stairs of the 80-foot tower leads to awe-inspiring panoramas of the mountains and communities below. And sunset here is awe-inspiring.

There’s nothing like a rejuvenating early morning stroll around portions of the lake’s well-maintained paths and walkways. Hikers like us also the area’s many other opportunities like Heart Rock Trail, an easy 1.7-mile loop that features a natural water slide just below scenic Seeley Creek Falls, the area is sonamed for the perfectly carved geologic anomaly-a natural heart-shaped hole in the granite wall alongside the waterfall. If time allows, the more challenging 6-mile, 2-hour there-and-back Deep Creek Hot Springs/Goat Trail is well worth it. The thermal hot springs located here are magnificent. Of note: visitors to any of the San Bernardino National Forest locations for recreation purposes are required to display a National Forest Adventure Pass in their vehicle. These daily or annual passes can be purchased at any of the area’s ranger stations or online.

Where to Bike in the Mountains  There are several places for mountain biking, but Skypark Bike Park is in a league of its own. The trail network here winds through a thick canopy of pine trees in an alpine forest with several well marked,

Other Must-See Outdoor Attractions

Wildhaven Ranch is an educational visitor center and wildlife sanctuary for endangered and indigenous animals. Operated by the San Bernardino Mountains Wildlife Society, the center has free admission but reservations must be made in advance. Beautiful sanctuary animal ambassadors include injured and orphaned black bears, coyotes, silver fox, bald eagles, bobcat, mule deer, and a great horned owl, among others. Private and group tours are available for an additional fee. Winter brings the snow, and for down-hill and crosscountry skiers, snow boarders, and snow-shoers, the area boast three magnificent areas to take to the slopes. Our favorite is Snow Summit Ski Resort—the perfect place for beginners or novice skiers.

Sunset View from Strawberry Peak Fire Lookout

Where to Wine and Dine at Lake   Arrowhead  For a small town, there is no shortage of places to dine. Thanks to a local recommendation, we fell in love with The Grill at Antler’s Inn, located in nearby Twin Peaks. Housed in a 100-year-old log building, the rustic fine-dining restaurant fits the region to perfection. Reservations are necessary as it’s always busy—and for good reason. While the menu features many diﬀerent entrees, The Grill is renowned for its steak and burgers. I will note however, that the dish I lust for here is the Pumpkin Pesto Tortellini, made with chicken, andouille sausage, currants, shallots, and a chili pesto cream sauce. Overlooking the crystalline waters of the lake, The Grapevine is a fun, vibrant place in the village for good wine, craft beer and tasty treats. Oﬀerings range from creative bar bites and charcuterie plates to salads, sandwiches, sliders and flatbreads. The trip to and from Lake Arrowhead was a delightful winding journey through spectacular mountain scenery. What made this road trip so special however is that our lakeside destination was equally magical. Heart Rock Trail

The Ultimate Northwest Road Trip Playlist

By Nancy Mueller Okanogan, Washington

rom folk music to jazz, classical, gr unge, and alter native rock, the Northwest music scene oﬀers plenty of tunes worth a spot on “The Ultimate Northwest Road Trip Playlist.” With a focus on Northwest artists and songs that have come to define the region, here’s a short selection of those that made my cut.

Louie Louie—The   Kingsman  All Northwest road trips begin and end with the iconic “Louie Louie.”

“Louie Louie, oh no, me gotta go, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, baby, Louie Louie, oh baby, me gotta go.” Count yourself among the cognoscenti if you actually know the rest of the song lyrics or even that the song is about a lovelorn Jamaican sailor longing for his girl b a c k h o m e . Wr i t t e n a n d originally performed by Richard Berry, and later popularized by Ta co m a ’s T h e W h a l e r s a n d Yakima’s The Kingsmen in 1963, the song experienced an implausible revival in the ‘80s,

thanks to Whatcom County’s campaign to have the music designated Washington’s oﬃcial state song. Sadly, the resolution failed to pass the legislative House, relinquishing “Louie Louie” to a mere footnote in Washington State history. But not without first proclaiming April 12, 1985, ‘Louie Louie Day.’ Yeah! For more information about the song’s illustrious past, listen to the Lost Notes podcast, which will take you further down the rabbit hole of “Louie Louie” than

Photos: North Cascades Highway; The Okanagan, B.C.

Photos (L-R): Glacier National Park; Mt. Hood National Park, Oregon

you ever thought possible, including a nod to Louie Louie: The History and Mythology by author Dave Marsh.

Seattle—Perry Como  “And the hills the greenest green in Seattle.” More popularly known as “The Bluest Skies You’ve Ever Seen are in Seattle,” this song became the theme music for the popular late-60s TV show, “Here Come the Brides.” Best played on a sunny day, this oldie but goodie evokes the boundless natural beauty of the Pacific Northwest and the dazzling, deep blue skies and forest greens that contrast so starkly with the gloomy gray skies of winter.

Sleepless in Seattle   Soundtrack  Listening to any of the 12 classic songs on this soundtrack will take you back in time to one of the most popular films ever made in the beautiful Northwest. From “As Time Goes By” (sung inexplicably by Jimmy Durante) to “Back in the Saddle Again” (Gene Autry) to “Stand by Your Man” (Tammy Wynette),

The long and winding road, that leads, to your door Will never disappear, I've seen that road before ~ John Lennon & Paul McCartney

among other notables, Sleepless in Seattle contains a treasure trove of memorable songs. If your road trip includes a city detour, visitors can hop aboard a Seattle Argosy cruise ship that t a ke s p a s s e n g e r s p a s t t h e legendary floating home made famous by Tom Hank’s character in the movie.

Hang On Little Tomato— Pink Martini  Portland’s own, Pink Martini, features a small ensemble of musicians, including founders Thomas Lauderdale (pianist) and China Forbes (vocalist), who first met as fellow students at Harvard University in the 80s. Fueled by a desire to create more inclusive music to represent the world’s citizens, the group’s

selections highlight global rhythms and traditions, blending crossover styles like salsa, pop, and jazz.

Song creators Lauderdale and Patrick Abbey credit an advertisement for Hunts Catsup in the October 16, 1967 issue of Life Magazine as the inspiration for the album’s title and hit song, “Hang On Tomato.” For anyone needing a little pick me up—and who doesn’t these days? - this song’s for you. “You gotta hold on  Hold on through the night  Hang on  Things will be all right.”

Drive My Car—The   Beatles  The Beatles played the Seattle Center Coliseum in 1964 and again in 1966, and famously fished out of the window of The Edgewater Hotel when that was a Seattle thing. That qualifies the Fab Four for a spot on my “Ultimate Northwest playlist.” Select road theme songs like “The Long and Winding Road”

and “Drive My Car,” or choose among your favorite albums. While any of The Beatles’ melodies will do nicely for a road trip, you can find the setlist for their Seattle gigs here and here.

Wild Montana Skies—John Denver and Emmylou Harris Montana’s wild, expansive beauty comes to life in John Denver’s lyrics about a young boy raised by his uncle after losing his mother. He later leaves Big Sky Country in his 20s only to return to stay in his 30s. “He was born in the Bitterroot Valley   in the early morning rain  Wild geese over the water heading   north and home again.”

Home—Michael Buble  Sooner or later, all great road trips lead back home again, whether after a day, a week, or longer. British Columbia Canadian Buble brings just the right touch of melancholy felt by anyone who’s spent too much time on the road and longs to go home. “Let me go home  I’m just too far  From where you are  I wanna come home.”

More Northwest Road Trip Favorites “Barracuda” —Heart “All Along the Watchtower” —Jimi Hendrix “Kicks” —Paul Revere and the Raiders “Songbird” —Kenny G “Idaho” —Reckless Kelly “How Deep is the Ocean”—Diana Krall “Both Sides Now” —Joni Mitchell

Photos (Top to bottom): Heyburn State Park, Idaho; Idaho; Sooke, Vancouver Island, B.C.

United States of Wine: Midwest Urban Wineries By Kathy Merchant

By Kathy Merchant

s the daylight hours of winter grow shorter, and the prospect of hunkering down for a few more months is upon us, most travel plans remain stuck on hold. With a hopeful eye turned toward the possibility of travel in Spring 2021, what about a Midwest road trip organized around urban wineries? Detroit, Indianapolis, Cincinnati, Louisville—choose one or visit them all. There’s plenty more to do in each city to go along with a cool wine adventure. But first, what exactly is an urban w i n e r y ? S i m p l e , r i g h t ? It ’s a commercial winery located in an urban environment rather than in a familiar vineyard and winer y operation in a rural setting.

Photo courtesy of winemag.com

The full answer is a bit more nuanced. Urban wineries are not new. About two decades ago, the first pioneering urban wineries started to emerge as grape-to-glass operations in urban settings. As wine has gained popularity across all adult age groups, urban wineries are gaining currency. A 2018 article in Food and Wine reported that urban wineries are on the rise and “they’re crushing it.” There are three main types of grape-to-glass operations. One is managing vineyards in one place, say California, and making wine in a diﬀerent urban location. Another approach is contracting with growers from multiple locations, trucking grapes to an urban location for crush to bottling, and then presenting the result in an adjacent tasting room. A third type involves hiring a dedicated winemaker who oversees an entire operation from grape to bottle, leaving just the last step—the glass—for the experience at the urban winery. Now let’s plan a diverse trip starting in Michigan and heading south to Kentucky! These relative newcomers will welcome you with open arms. How fun to try something new from a familiar place, or something altogether new!

Detroit Vineyards  “Superior Wines Made Right in the Heart of Detroit”

The owners of Detroit Vineyards (DV) first planted an acre of vines in 2015 in the Motor City’s East Side neighborhood. DV is committed to using all Michigan-grown grapes to produce wines ranging from crisp whites to full-bodied reds. In the

meantime, while the metro Detroit vines mature, DV purchases grapes on contract from Western Michigan wineries. Everything else, from crush to bottling, happens in Detroit. Grape varieties include familiar internationals such as Reisling and Pinot Noir, but the lineup also includes French hybrid grapes that grow well in the Midwest, including Traminette and Marquette.

“In the expansive (12,000 square foot) tasting room at Detroit Vineyards, the ancient pumps, tanks, and piping of the historic building stand in stark contrast to futuristic chandeliers and gleaming fermentation tanks. Here, vintage industrial Detroit meets modern design as fast and shiny as a new Ford Shelby GT.” (Michigan Today, 2/27/2020) Detroit Metro native Chris Southern was lured back to Michigan in 2019 as “El Jefe.” Southern learned the wine business as a second career in Michigan; Paso Robles, Napa, and Sonoma in California; Washington State; New Zealand; and South Africa. Detroit Vineyards is open to visitors for tasting and tours now. The winery also oﬀers hosted virtual tastings for those customers who prefer to taste in the comfort of their own homes. The cost is only the price of the bottle purchase (3 bottle minimum).

Peace Water Winery “Indiana’s only Locally Owned California Winery” Scott Burton is a recovering Indianapolis lawyer. Shortly after he retired, wife Laura—mom to their eight children and manager of a fleet of animals—sagely encouraged Scott to find something meaningful to do. For the Burtons as a family, this meant finding a way to give back. Being fun-loving people, they thought “what better way to do it than share wine…and donate 50% of net profits to charity!” With every tasting, visitors get to choose a donation made to one of the eight charities pre-selected by the Burton children.

Detroit Vineyards Bottle Photo courtesy of Detroit Free Press

https://detroitvineyards.com/ Open Wednesday through Sunday, hours vary Reservations required for tasting and tours 1000 Gratiot Ave. Detroit, MI 48207 (313) 265-3938 Detroit Vineyards can ship wine to 38 U.S. States

With three locations in downtown Indianapolis and nearby suburban areas, Peace Water sells only wines grown and bottled in Napa and Sonoma, California. Winemaker Brian Brakesman learned the ropes at his family’s winery, Napa’s Summit Lake Vineyards, where Brian still lives with his family in the Howell Mountain. Peace Water oﬀers a diverse selection of varietal and blended wines, all labeled with playful names that reflect the light and breezy spirit of the winery itself. The three tasting rooms are open every day except Monday, no reservations required.

Peacewater charities

Tasting Room Locations Hours vary by day (but not location) https://www.peacewaterwinery.com/

Downtown Indianapolis Mass Ave District 747 N College Avenue, Suite B Indianapolis, IN 46202 (317) 735-6618

Carmel Art and Design District 37 W Main Street Carmel, IN 46032 (317) 810-1330

Fishers The Yard at Fishers District 11547 Yard Street,   Suite 830 Fishers, IN 46037 (317) 537-2190

The Skeleton Root Winery  “Paying Homage to Historic (vine) Roots in   Cincinnati”  In the 1850s, Ohio was the largest wine producer in the United States, and Cincinnati was the epicenter. The star of that show was Nicholas Longworth who began experimenting with native American grapes in 1813, planting them in the area known today as the Mt. Adams neighborhood. His commercial success came in 1830 with the red Catawba grape, foxy and semi-sweet, beloved by Cincinnatians. A d o z e n y e a r s l a te r, t h e p i n k Ca t a w b a w i n e accidentally went through a second fermentation. The resulting bubbly was a global hit and fueled the dramatic growth of Ohio’s wine industry. Of course, all of that changed for Ohio with Prohibition, as it did across the country. Ohio never quite regained its footing until the late 20th century. The Skeleton Root Winer y builds on Ohio’s winegrowing history and neighborhood focus. Inspired by the deep-rooted wine heritage of the region, Kate MacDonald (an engineer) and Josh Jackson (a pilot) founded the urban winery in 2016. They purchase mostly native American heritage grapes under contract from various Ohio appellations, and winemaker Kate make all wines grape-to-glass at their Over-The-Rhine facility.

Skeleton Root Cellar

http://www.skeletonroot.com/ Open Friday, Saturday and Sunday; hours vary Available to rent for weddings and corporate events 38 W. McMicken Ave. Cincinnati, OH 45202 (513) 918-3015

Some unique wines to try include Sparkling Cawawba made in the ancestral method (pétillant-naturel or “pétnat”), Seyval Blanc (white), and Norton (red).

Old 502 Winery  “The Only Urban Winery in Kentucky”  Louisville can claim pioneer status as well as hip currency in the urban winery sector. In 2002, an urban winer y cal led River Bend (overlooking the Ohio River) launched in downtown Louisville. A decade later, a business refresh led to rebranding as Old 502 Winery (502 being the area code for Louisville). The winery outsources grapes but makes all wine on premises downtown. Owners Jon Ryan Neace and Logan Leet oﬀer this perspective: “Not having our own vineyard gives us the ability to craft some of the most eclectic — dare we say funky — wines you’ll ever have the pleasure of tasting. Forget what you know about wine and wineries. We’re breaking all the rules.” Some of those rule-breakers include a semi-dry Bourbon Barrel Red, Bourbon Barrel Black made from the Norton grape, After Choc that “melts in your mouth, not in your glass,” and a white wine called Kentucky Lady made from all Kentucky-grown grapes.

Photo courtesy of Old 502 Winery

https://old502.com/ Check website for tasting room reopening schedules Wednesday through Sunday 915 E. Liberty Louisville, KY 40204 (502) 540-5650

The tasting room is closed temporarily, in part due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Plans to move from the current downtown location (which is now closed) to a new facility in the Phoenix Hill/Nulu neighborhood were delayed, but not derailed. In the meantime, Old 502 Winery can ship to 43 states.

Exploring On Off the Natchez Trace By Debi Lander

Walk along the Old Trace

Natchez Trace Parkway Entrance at the Double Arch Bridge

he Natchez Trace Parkway, a 444-mile historic trail running through three states, became part of the U.S. National Park system in 1938. As you might expect, the Parkway makes an ideal road trip combining scenic vistas with numerous historical markers and recreation sites. Break up the drive and choose regional hiking, biking, horseback riding, and camping options. Or, do what my travel buddy and I did, drive the length and spend nights in big cities and small towns just oﬀ the highway, indulging in the tastes of the South. “The Trace” originated as a buﬀalo trail before trodden by the Natchez, Choctaw, and Chickasaw tribes, early European explorers, Ohio Valley riverboat traders, soldiers, slaves, and future presidents. Travel took about 35 days by foot, 25 days on horseback. Later the route was widened for wagons and eventually abandoned in favor of steamboats. By the Civil War, the trail was almost

forgotten. However, they fought some skirmishes and battles in the vicinity. Fortunately, preservation groups stepped in to save and restore the roadway. Currently, the National Park Service maintains the tract from Natchez, Mississippi to Nashville, Tennessee. Some folks attempt to drive the two-lane road, with a maximum speed limit of 50 mph in one day, but Judy and I made it into a week-long journey.

Nashville, Tennessee  We started with a rental car in Music City and toured Nashville’s full-scale replica of the original Parthenon in Greece. Then, we checked out the live musicians playing in the downtown honky-tonks along Broadway. With advance tickets, we enjoyed a toe-tapping evening performance of country music at the Grand Ole Opry. The next morning, we headed to the Parkway’s entrance, but not before stopping for breakfast at a Nashville institution, the Loveless Café. You can’t beat their famous buttermilk biscuits and slow-cured country ham. Some days the Loveless bakes up to

Photos (From left): Singer in a Nashville honky-tonk; Performance at the Grand Old Opry; Parthenon replica in Nashville, Tennessee

Photos (From left): Map of the Old Natchez Trace; Becoming, statues at the Elvis Presley Birthplace; Elvis Presley Birthplace in Tupelo

10,000 home-made biscuits. Pick up some takeaway for snacking as the tree-lined Trace offers no gas stations, convenience stores, or hotels. However, you’ll find public restrooms and mile markers (MM) running from 444 in Nashville down zero in Natchez. About an hour down the road, stop by the Me r r i w e a t h e r L e w i s Mo n u m e n t ( M M 3 8 5 ) . Meriwether Lewis of Lewis and Clark fame died under mysterious circumstances at Grinder’s stand. His grave marker features a cut-off column signifying a life cut short at just 35 years. Stretch your legs on a hiking trail or browse the exhibits. Civil War buffs should consider detouring off the Trace to see the famous battlefields at Corinth, Shiloh, or Vicksburg.

Toward Tupelo  Heading toward Tupelo, we paused for a walk along the Old Trace’s footpath, imagining how vulnerable travelers felt some 200 years ago. I spied a group of motorcyclists placing fla gs on the nearby Confederate graves with stone markers. The Parkway Headquarters and Visitor Center provides a must-see educational opportunity. We to o k t h e t i m e to w a t c h t h e we l l - p r o d u ce d introductory film and browsed the displays covering the trail’s 10,000-year history. We soon took the Tupelo exit. Now was the time to pay homage to Elvis, the hometown boy who made big dreams come true. Tupelo’s pride, the Elvis

Presley Birthplace Museum, includes t h e Pr e s l e y t w o - r o o m shotgun house and a memorabilia museum from Elvis’ early years. The grounds display some fantastic statues. We spent a night downtown finding colorful murals, guitar-shaped artworks, and Tupelo Hardware, the place Elvis’ Mama bought him his first guitar. Dinner and live music at the Blue Canoe, a gastro-pub, completed our day. The next morning, we fueled up at the King Chicken Fillin’ Station with a breakfast fit for the King, aka Elvis. Back on the Trace heading South, we found the French Camp Historical Village, one of the few restaurants on the Parkway, and discovered an early American log cabin village. The museum and other buildings are typically open Monday through Saturday. The name Kosciusko, Mississippi (Kahz-Choos-ko) intrigued us, so we stopped at the Kosciusko Information Center, finding a small museum about the Polish General. According to signage, his military genius and engineering played a vital role in our Revolutionary War’s success. Restrooms are available here.

Jackson  Jackson (MM100), the Mississippi state capital, sits

Photos (From left): Tupelo Mural ; A bridge across the Natchez Trace;   One of many historical markers along the Natchez Trace

just 10 miles off the Trace and makes another ideal place for an overnight stop. We left the calm ease of driving the two-lane Parkway and entered high-speed interstate traffic, carefully merging with the oncoming vehicles. Once at the Capitol building, we followed a self-tour using the visitor brochure as our guide. Plenty of marble and grandeur in this domed structure. Jackson also offers two eye-opening museums in one: the hands-on Mississippi History Museum and the interactive Mississippi Civil Rights Museum. We found eight interactive galleries with striking images and displays. Seven of the galleries encircle a central space, highlighted by a sculpture called “This Little Light of Mine.” You move from the darkened galleries into the light as you work your way around the

museum. The sculpture becomes brightest when the music of the Movement swells, about every 15 minutes. I found myself pulled in by the clapping, swaying, and singing. That’s a good thing because the museum tells poignant, often tearful tales. The two attractions jointly cover 200,000 square feet and include 22,000 artifacts. You’ll need at least half a day to do them justice. On a lighter note, we found terrific ice cream treats at Brent’s Drugs. Brent’s, an old-fashion pharmacy and soda fountain took us back to our childhood days. The place opened in 1946 and feels and looks like a time capsule complete with real soda jerks. No s u r p r i s e , t h e y filmed many scenes in the movie “The Help” there.

Back on the Trace  We m a d e o n e m o r e detour because I wanted to photograph the Windsor Ruins that lie smack in kudzu covered territory. The ruins are all that remain of what was once a palatial mansion, but they make a haunting sight, a favorite of photographers.

We took our time driving the Natchez Trace, often pulling

oﬀ to read the many historical markers. We saw trails, lakes, and numerous Indian mounds. National Park Ranger, Jane Farmer, Chief of Interpretation, told us. “Don’t pass by Emerald Mound (MM10). They remain the second-largest Indian mound in the U.S.”

Onward to Natchez  We finally reached Natchez, ready to bask in elegance and charm. Historic homes showcase antebellum splendor with costumed, knowledgeable guides who share the houses, families, and the city’s history. We learned that Natchez was the wealthiest town per capita in the U.S. from about 1820 to 1860. We couldn’t wait to tour some of the homes. Longwood, the grand dame, tells an equally grand tale. They designed the immense octagonal house to show oﬀ wealth, but they only completed the lower floor. The Civil War ruined the builder’s fortune. Greek Revival Stanton Hall, built in the 1850s by a cotton merchant, remains the most opulent antebellum mansion in town, covering an entire block. Rosalie Mansion overlooks the river on the site of Fort Rosalie. During the Civil War, the home and grounds served as Union Army headquarters. However, there’s so much more to Natchez than the remnants of old wealth. Don’t leave until you’ve gone down by the river’s edge. Natchez Under-the-Hill presents a row of riverfront restaurants and shops far tamer than the brothels, taverns, and gambling halls that stood there 200 years ago. We celebrated the completion of our eventful journey overlooking the river.

What to Know if You Go: • Visit the National Park website for all   park openings and closings. • Cell phones may not work   everywhere. • Bicycle riding along the Trace is for   experienced riders, not for families with   young children. The road is just two   lanes wide. • Three primitive campgrounds are free   and available on a first-come, first-  serve basis. They do not offer   electricity, showers, or dump stations.

Photos (From opposite top):Mississippi State Capitol in Jackson; Interior of the Dome in the MS Capitol; Windsor Ruins near Port Gibson, MS; Confederate Grave along the Old Trace; (This page from top): The Grand Dame of Natchez, Longwood; Rosalie Manor in Natchez; Interior of a Natchez Mansion; Mississippi River at sunset, Natchez

Road Trip Back to The Wild West By Joeann Fossland

oad trips beckon, not just as a means to a destination, but as a casually-paced journey. After 50 years of road tripping, having a place to bed down on fresh clean sheets and proximity to good food and interesting surroundings is more my style than camping in the wilderness. Revitalized historic hotels along the trip are my way of appreciating the past, while enjoying all the comforts of the 21st century.

Getting To Las Vegas  Have you been to Las Vegas? No, I’m not referring to the casinofilled city in Nevada. I’m referring to the original Las Vegas in east New Mexico. It’s an awesome short road trip from Albuquerque. Heading north on I-25, you can stop along the way for some site seeing in Santa Fe. Then get back on I-25 for another hour or so to Las Vegas. Or, if you’re coming from the north, Las Vegas is about 4.5 hours south of Denver. Alternatively, you can arrive by daily train.

The Wild West  In t h e l a te 1 8 0 0 s , w h e n t h e

Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroads opened up the southwest to adventurous travelers, a savvy businessman named Fred Harvey, realized the need for hotels, not just food stops along the way. After a long ride, a chance to hop oﬀ and be indulged was tempting. And, so it was Har vey began to build memorable stops to pamper the tired railroad pioneers. In 1 8 9 8 , h i s f i r s t h o t e l , L a Castañeda, was designed by Pasadena architect Fred Roehrig in a C-shape with a courtyard facing the tracks welcoming visitors oﬀ the trains into bustling Las Vegas, New Mexico.

La Castañeda, The “Queen of   Las Vegas”  A collaborative group headed by Allen Aﬄedt and his artist wife Tina Mion have put life back into La Castañeda after 72 years of s i t t i n g v a c a n t . Us i n g l o c a l craftsmen, a simple, old-fashioned, quality restoration is reclaiming the hotel’s original spirit and grandeur. Still in the restoration process, La Castañeda, is open with 16 refurbished rooms, all lovingly

appointed with antique furniture. Each room is named for one of the legendary Harvey House Hotels and is being themed with a unique transom, hand-painted by Tina. Harvey’s vision for fresh, quality dining has been embraced at Bar Castañeda and at the soon-to-beopened restaurant, Kin at Castañeda. Chef Sean Sinclair and his wife Katey are using locally sourced meats and produce to bring fine dining and creativity to Las Vegas. They have already Photos (L-R): La Castaneda Bar; La Castaneda Antiques, La Castaneda lobby

garnered a 2020 Local Heroes award from Edible New Mexico magazine. Currently, dining on the outside patios provides safe eating with maximum ambience. It’s easy to imagine you are in a time warp that has transported you from a cross country trip into the lap of luxury.

Historic Plaza Hotel—The Belle   of the Southwest  In town, across from the square, the historic Plaza Hotel, opened in 1882, has also been beautifully restored — all part of the plans in revitalizing this historic city. Byron T’s Saloon oﬀers a good selection of New Mexican beers and wine. Perhaps you’ll even encounter the resident ghost, Byron T, who is said to frequent the hotel, especially in room 310! The gift shop is fil led with Southwestern treasures. Decadent pastries from their coﬀee shop w i l l te m p t y o u to s i t a t a n outdoor table and people watch as you enjoy your food and drink.

Eat, Drink, Shop, and Hot   Spring It  Plan to spend a couple of days in this charming, historic town to   fully appreciate all that it has to oﬀer. The original town square, in

front of the Plaza Hotel, was the location of a famous meeting of Teddy Roosevelt’s Rough Riders in 1899. Bands often play in the gazebo while folks relax on the green lawn under tall trees.

anywhere else. I bought my favorite red cowgirl boots here!

Las Vegas teems with history, boasting over 900 buildings in the National Register of Historic Places. Around the square and down the side streets, shops and restaurants provide plenty of variety for shopping and eating.

Montezuma Hot Springs are located six miles northwest of Las Vegas with three public, rustic hot springs pools. Like the local food, the springs are hot—with the highest pool temperature at 122 degrees. Wear your bathing suit and bring a towel, but be aware that the area has no facilities.

D o y o u l i ke H O T f o o d ? Au t h e n t i c Ne w Me x i c a n restaurants will serve their tasty green chiles on practically everything, as you imbibe on their specialty margaritas or mescal. Antique, craft, and gift shops are filled with things you didn’t even know you needed, and won’t find

If you like to camp, fish or hike, there are plenty of opportunities within an hour of town.

Las VegasAt the time of this writing, New Mexico hotels are operating at up to 75 percent capacity and restaurants at 25 percent capacity due to the pandemic. I recommend calling ahead to confirm availability.

Photos (Clockwise from bottom left): Montezuma Hot Springs; New Mexican Lunch Las Vegas; Plaza Gift Shop; Las Vegas Street Art; Plaza Hotel lobby; Plaza Hotel. Las Vegas New Mexico

Road Tripping Through Florida By Betsi Hill

hen you think of Florida, your mind goes to Tampa, Miami, Fort Lauderdale, Orlando, and of course, theme parks. Florida has so much more, and we’re unveiling three of our favorite Florida small-town destinations.

Fort Pierce  The Treasure Coast is home to Fort Pierce. The Treasure Coast takes its name from the 1715 Spanish Treasure Fleet, which sunk oﬀ the coast after being caught by a vicious hurricane. Mel Fisher and the Real Eight Company struck gold in May 1964 when Fisher discovered a “carpet of gold” in approximately 20 feet of water. Only a few ships of the fleet have been located, which beckons treasure hunters to the area each summer.

What to Do in Fort Pierce  Fort Pierce is one of Florida’s top surfing spots. We love taking an afternoon stroll down to Fort Pierce Inlet State Park to watch the surfers. Across the inlet, at South Jetty Park, you’ll see kite boarders performing acrobatics over the wave tops as they catch the wind currents. After watching the kiteboarder’s acrobatic show at South Jetty Park, a favorite stop is Taco Dive, where fresh and local reign. Taco Dive is not your typical little dive restaurant. It’s dog-friendly, so our Maltese Zach loves to visit. The staﬀ always indulge him with a glass, not a dog bowl of water. Speaking of the team, they always greet you with a smile, even when wearing a mask. Local favorites include their Smothered Tots, bite-sized tater tots smothered in queso sauce and topped with fresh jalapeños. The queso Sauce with beef is flavorful with a bit of spice and is always a hit and our favorite. Taco Dive has put a twist on the lowly taco. My husband loves the Under Dog, a grilled beef hotdog smothered with cabbage, tomato, cucumber, jalapeño, onion, queso fresco crumbles, spicy mustard, and cheese. The Irish is an unusual taco with slow-roasted beer-soaked corned beef topped with sautéed cabbage, tater tots, and spicy mustard. My tastes lean a bit more traditional. I love the Cilantro Chicken taco, which is tasty with a bit of spice added. It makes my mouth feel as if it were having a fiesta.

Photos (Top to bottom): Beautiful beaches are plentiful in Fort Pierce; Kiteboarding at in Fort Pierce; Steak taco at Taco Dive; The Underdog taco at Taco Dive; A view across the inlet in Fort Pierce All photos ©Jim Hill

Photos (L-R): Aerial stunts at South Jetty Park; Steak taco atTaco Dive; Pelican & friend in Fort Pierce; All photos ©Jim Hill

T h e c h i c ke n i s f i r e roasted, then shredded and topped with lettuce, cheese, tomato, and house-made dive sauce. The dive sauce is a sour cream base blended with herbs and cilantro.

National Navy UDT-SEAL Museum  A v i s i t t o t h e Na t i o n a l Na v y U D T- S E A L Museum is a must when you are in Fort Pierce. The museum traces the history of the Navy Seals from their humble beginnings through current day. When World War II broke out, the US Navy created Un d e r w a t e r D e m o l i t i o n Te a m s f o r s p e c i a l amphibious missions. On June 6, 1943, Fort Pierce became home to the newly formed Naval Combat Demolition Unit (NCDU) training school. LCDR Draper Kauﬀman assembled volunteers from the Bomb and Mine Disposal School, The Civil Engineering Corps, and Naval Construction Corps for the first classes at the NCDU training school. Demolition of submerged beach obstacles was the dominant emphasis of the training school—beach obstacles located predominately in beach surf zones. Following graduation, they sent the teams to the Pacific, the Mediterranean, and England. The Naval Combat Demolition teams played pivotal roles in D-Day on June 6, 1944, and the invasion of Southern France in August of 1944. Some of the Fort Pierce-trained teams went to the Pacific theatre. There were 30 U n d e r w a t e r Demolition

teams formed during World War II, and 26 trained at Fort Pierce. Following WWII, they reorganized the teams into four 50-man units, and these four post-WWII UDT teams were the precursor of the modern-day SEAL teams.

Beaches  Fort Pierce boasts some beautiful beaches. Our favorite is Avalon Beach State Park. We love the windswept dunes, and if you look out over the reefs, you may see a dolphin or two frolicking in the waves. From Memorial Day through September, it’s turtle season, so you may encounter a sea turtle lumbering down the beach as she makes her way back to the sea after nesting. If you are a morning person and love to walk the beach at sunrise, you may even see a turtle nest “boil” as the hatchlings scramble out of the nest and head to the sea.

Stay at the Driftwood Inn  A short drive from Fort Pierce is Vero Beach. A drive down scenic A1A will bring you to a funky and eclectic hotel. In 1937, Waldo Sexton built The Driftwood Inn. This iconic and historic property is worth a stay. It’s a slice of Old Florida with touches reminiscent of history and a location perched on the beach.

DeLand  When we first visited this delightful town in Central Florida, we fell in love. This college town is bursting with fantastic outdoor activities, history, spirits (real spirits and brewed spirits), and incredible food.

Photos (L-R): Water lilies on the St. Johns River; The St. Johns River with St. Johns River Eco Tours; Wildlife is abundant along the St. Johns River All photos ©Jim Hill

Photos (L-R): A collection of John Stetson’s hats; Fun at De Leon Springs; Cooking pancakes @the Old Spanish Sugar Mill and Griddle House in De Leon Springs All photos ©Jim Hill

What to do in DeLand  John Stetson of Stetson Hat fame built his winter mansion in the Deland area. Today the Stetson Mansion has been renovated and is on the National Register of Historic Places. The mansion is Florida’s only Gilded Age mansion dating back to 1886. The estate is open for tours, so don’t miss an opportunity to visit when you find yourself in DeLand.

Shop Until You Drop and Then You Sip

Pancakes and Springs

Of course, shopping leaves you parched. Stop into the Elusive Grape for a sip of wine and perhaps a nibble to eat. If brews are more your style, then don’t miss a stop to Hyderhead or Persimmon Hollow. If you are feeling adventurous, Odd Elixir Meadworks will be right up your alley.

Take a dip in the springs, and eat pancakes at De Leon Springs. De Leon Springs, named for Ponce De Leon, the legendary explorer, is one of Florida’s many state parks and is one of our top choices for exploring nature. Walking the trails through the sub-tropical forest oﬀers a respite from the summer heat.

Don’t miss exploring DeLand’s downtown! You certainly won’t have any shortage of shops, though your wallet may be a bit lighter from all the temptations that beckon you as you meander through downtown.

Another Type of Spirit

Take a dip in the springs and cool oﬀ after your hike. The water is a constant 72 degrees year-round. Concrete steps lead into the crystal clear pool. After cooling down, it’s time to eat, and our choice is always the Old Spanish Sugar Mill and Griddle House.

I won’t let the cat out of the bag because each must experience the next stop on their own, but a stop at Cassadaga Spiritualist Camp is an eye-opening experience. Book a tour for the full experience of Cassadaga.

Opened in 1961 by the Schwarze family, this unique restaurant has a massive griddle in the middle of the table. Once the batter arrives, the creative fun begins! You’re the chef and can top your pancake creations with chocolate chips, peanut butter, blueberries, bananas, pecans, apples, or applesauce. The results are endless; the giggles and laughter infectious, and time spent together priceless.

Don’t miss an eco-tour along the St. Johns River with St. John River Eco Tours. Doug Little loves the St. Johns River and is passionate about sharing that love with visitors. He’ll regale you with stories about life on the river and its wildlife.

Eco Fun

Culinary Finds   Of course, food always plays a part on a road trip, and DeLand doesn’t disappoint. Chica’s Cuban Cafe oﬀers some of the most scrumptious Cuban bites we have eaten and is one of our go-to restaurants! We

Photos (L-R): Mojo Pork Plantains at Chica; The Elusive Grape Wine Bar and Tapas; Hibiscus Tacos at De La Vega All photos ©Jim Hill

love the Havana Loaded Plantain Strips. The mojo pork is so tasty and makes our mouths so happy. De La Vega is a family-owned restaurant with a passion for sharing their love of Latin Fusion cuisine. The empanadas are hearty and tasty. Always a hit. But the star of De La Vega is the hibiscus flowers. De La Vega’s Plantain Tacitas uses caramelized hibiscus flowers as the centerpiece of this dish, and it is exquisite! The Hibiscus Tacos are indeed a bite of heaven. They are so flavorful, with a combination of spices and just enough bite to be fun.

Mount Dora  Mount Dora is snuggled on Lake Dora and is a top destination for antique enthusiasts. Filled with old-fashioned Southern hospitality, Mount Dora is one of our favorite choices for just slowing down, relaxing, and recharging.

What to Do in Mount Dora  What better way to explore an area filled with lakes than by seaplane? Jones Brothers Air and Seaplane Adventures have several diﬀerent tours to explore the area. I highly recommend this unusual way of exploring. You’ll walk away with a birds-eye view of the area, making your Mount Dora visit something you’ll never forget. Mount Dora is overflowing with unique shopping, so you’re sure to find lots of trinkets and treasures to bring home with you. The antique lover won’t be disappointed. For fresh farm-to-table and hook-to-table food, a stop at Pisces Rising is perfect for a delectable, relaxing meal. The food is fresh and well prepared, and the view overlooking the lake as you sip a glass of wine and watch the sun slip down is unparalleled. Are you craving a stop for a cocktail after all that shopping and exploring? Stop into Tremain’s Tavern Bar at the Lakeside Inn. They are crafting some amazing cocktails. My personal favorite? The Lavender Lemon Drop Martini. These three Florida small towns are jampacked with sights, shopping, good food, and history. No matter which one you stop and linger in, you will not be disappointed.

Photos (Top to bottom): Mount Dora’s charming downtown; Mount Dora is filled with lots of eclectic shops and boutiques; Mount Dora’s downtown; Boutique shopping reigns in Mount Dora; Delightful meal at Pieces Rising   All photos ©Jim Hill

A Spectacular Road Trip Through

South Dakota By Suzanne Stavert

any people seem to leave The Dakotas for last when trying to visit every state in the U.S. I think that’s a big mistake! This area of the country is spectacular, with nature so abounding and incredible, you almost can't believe it’s real. Traveling the U.S. by car is so much more personal than flying from one large urban city to another. Our South Dakota road trip enabled us to experience these beautiful landscapes at a leisurely pace. We seem to rush through everything these days, so I was pretty happy to slow down in magnificent surroundings like these. My advice is to fly into Rapid City, South Dakota, and then road trip from here to see this beautiful and unique state. I have no doubt you’ll leave there as enamored by it as I was.

Mount Rushmore  As you drive around the final bend in the highway before the exit, the magnificent presidential faces of Mount Rushmore suddenly appear in the distance— as if they were dropped from the sky. It was so impressive! We stood in awe of this engineering marvel. Mount Rushmore’s construction began in 1927 by sculptor Gutzon Borglum with the dedication of George Washington's head three years later. Considering the equipment at the time was nothing like what we have today, it makes this massive memorial even more remarkable. Before each evening's lighting ceremony, there is a fascinating, pre-recorded message that explains why Borglum chose these presidents, significant historical references to their presidencies, and other interesting facts. After the message, we all seemed to rise in unison to sing the National Anthem. All hats came oﬀ, hands covered hearts, and we sang. When we finished, you could have heard a pin drop, and many of us were wiping away a tear. The Lighting Ceremony takes place every evening, so make sure you stay long enough to experience this. Check the website for accurate start times.

Mount Rushmore

Custer State Park  Located in the famous Black Hills, Custer State Park is a South Dakota State Park and wildlife reserve. South Dakota’s first state park is named after famous Lt. Colonel George Armstrong Custer. One of our first stops in the Park was the incomparable Sylvan Lake. We arrived just after a small rain shower, and the sky was clear and the lake incredibly still. The mirror image of the enormous boulders above and below on the water was magical. I kept thinking, "Why didn't anyone ever tell me about this place?" Nearly speechless, I stood in silent awe. Nearby Custer State Park, you can easily drive over to see the Crazy Horse Memorial. This monument is a work in progress, but worthy of a stop along your road trip.

The Needles Highway  Next on our route through Custer State Park was

The Needles Highway. The rock formations are other-worldly! This 14-mile highway, built in 1922, leads to the granite spire. It’s a super curvy scenic route, and yes, I took some Dramamine. The "Needle" sits at the entrance to the Needles Eye Tunnel, and the area is full of cars and people taking photos of this natural wonder. How I managed to get a picture without a tourist in it is literally a miracle. As for the tunnel, it’s just like the eye of a needle. The passage is extremely narrow, so only one car can pass through at a time, and you can literally touch the tunnel’s walls.

Badlands National Park  The Badlands Loop Scenic Byway covers roughly 40 miles of a two-lane road past craggy, pale, sandy canyons that look much like the surface of a barren planet. The loop takes about two hours, depending how often and how long you stop. You can almost feel the canyons' slow erosion as the w i n d s s w i r l a b o u t . S t u n n i n g p h o to g r a p h i c possibilities here are endless. Depending upon the light and shadows, the view could be entirely diﬀerent from day to day or even hour to hour. I absolutely loved it here!

Deadwood and the Old West  For fans of the Old West, a stop in Deadwood, SD is a must! Rich with a history of gunslingers, gold diggers, and gamblers, much of the town looks as it did in 1876. We agreed it was a fun way to spend the afternoon strolling through the old buildings and soaking up the fun atmosphere.

Wall Drug  You can't go to any place in the Midwest or beyond without seeing a billboard or sign advertising Wall Drug. Over a million people each year visit this massive tourist attraction—and nearly 20,000 on a summer day. Although it is a bit cheesy and kitschy, it was still a super fun, almost inexplicable place where you can find everything from toothpaste to cowboy boots and enjoy a soda fountain treat, a piece of blueberry pie, and the famous “free water”. Until recently, I wouldn't have called myself a road tripper. But I stepped out of my typical luxury resort itinerary life, and was rewarded with stunning views that I never knew existed. Every outing felt like Christmas, as every turn on the road was like opening yet another precious gift.

Photos (Clockwise from left): The carving of Crazy Horse   Mountain continues; Sylvan Lake was like a mirror; Hiking through the rocks at Sylvan Lake; You can buy everything from toothpaste to cowboy boots at Wall Drug, a historic landmark; Rock formations like The Needle were abundant in Custer State Park; Badlands Landscape; Rich with a history of gunslingers, gold diggers, and gamblers, much of Deadwood looks like it did in 1876

Why Continuing with Travel Plans in the Age of COVID-19 is Important  By Jan Smith

Colorful Grand Prismatic Spring, Yellowstone National Park

ur Jul y 2020 plans were set, and the itinerar y was finalized. We were ready for a road trip to Big Sky, Montana, for a family celebration and much-needed reunion. A familiar ping on my laptop indicated an incoming email. The wedding that was became the wedding that wasn't. Due to the concerns of the pandemic, the bride and groom decided to halt their nuptials. The entire family begged to still go on the road trip. Everyone desired to get away and regain some normalcy after months in quarantine. According to the AAA, “Car trips reign supreme

accounting for 97% of the favored mode of transportation since the pandemic began in March.” We traveled over 1,600 miles each way through seven s t a te s ( Ca l i f o r n i a , Ne v a d a , Arizona, Utah, Idaho, Wyoming, and Montana). Road trips oﬀer a chance to be with family and accumulate experiences and memories. This trip overflowed with both. As we drove north from Las Vegas, we entered one of the West's most beautiful highway driving experiences. The Virgin River Gorge twists through the towering multicolored sandstone and limestone cliﬀs for 14 miles. The river accompanies the road

throughout this stretch of the highway. Our standard road trip itinerary d o e s n’t a l w a y s a l l o w f o r spontaneous stops. Over time, we have learned to plan time for exploration. We stopped to check out the contemporar y white The Creamery. Its legacy began in 1952 when local farmers built a plant to supply cheese to the local community. Today, The Creamery oﬀers all things dairy, including freshly made cheese and ice-cream. It is a respite for weary drivers on the I-15 highway. Ample and clean restrooms (a must during the pandemic) are available.

With an overnight stay in Idaho, we started early the next morning headed towards Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Jackson Hole is a busy tourism town with boutique hotels, restaurants, tee-shirt outlets, rock stores, and other tchotchke shops lining both sides of the main street. The town is a gateway to Grand Teton and Yellowstone National parks.

Grand Teton National Park

The following are a few experiences we recommend:

Our first stop at Grand Teton National Park was Taggart Lake (one of six glacial lakes in the park), just miles from the park’s s o u t h e r n Mo o s e E n t r a n c e Station. A well-groomed footpath oﬀers a tranquil walk alongside

The iconic Grand Prismatic Spring and pools at the Midway Geyser Basin are magnificent. A large geyser is present at the entrance to the boardwalk. At first glance, you’ll think it’s a pristine alpine lake until you see the boiling water. Beyond the geyser, the boardwalk winds

creeks and waterfalls, aspen meadows, pine forests, and eventually a view of the crystal waters of Taggard Lake. The lake is painted with reflections of the towering and snowcapped Grand Teton, Middle Teton, Garnet Canyon, Mt. Owen, and Teewinot Mountains.

around numerous hydrothermal pools. A scent of sulfur floats in the air. The Grand Prismatic Spring is filled with thermophiles mic roorga nism s that crea te extensive bands of bril liant rainbow colors. No picture will do it justice, you’ll just have to see this natural wonder in person!

Ye l l o w s t o n e N a t i o n a l Park

A short drive from the Grand Prismatic Spring is the Fountain Paint Pots and geysers. This area does not oﬀer the brilliant colors of the Grand Prismatic Spring. It is more barren and Mars-like.

We were surprised there was a wait at the entrance to Yellowstone National Park. The park ranger shared it has been a

b a n n e r m o n t h f o r to u r i s m . Otherworldly is how the National p a r k Fo u n d a t i o n d e s c r i b e s Yellowstone National Park. It could not be more fitting to describe the s c e n e r y. Hydrothermal pools, geysers, wildlife, rivers, waterfalls are spotted throughout the park.

However, it is the first time experiencing mud boil from the ground. Steam floats in the air and is warm to the skin. As we walked around the half-mile loop, we observed frequently erupting geysers, hot springs, boiling and bubbling mud, and fumaroles (an opening in the ground which emits steam and sulfurous gases). There is thermal activity on each side of the boardwalk. We found ourselves pivoting left and right not to miss anything. It’s a r e m i n d e r t h a t Ye l l o w s t o n e National Park is still an active volcano region. Gibbons Waterfall is one of 45 w a t e r f a l l s i n Ye l l o w s t o n e National Park and is accessed on

the Grand Loop. A parking area with a paved path provides an excellent vantage point to see the cascading falls and valley below. Old Faithful is worthy of a visit because of its legacy; it was the first geyser to be named at the park. After visiting the Grand Prismatic Spring and Fountain Paint Pots, Old Faithful was less impressive. The geyser erupts approximately every 90 minutes, so timing is critical if you have a Photos (L-R): Towering geysers at Painted Pots;Pristine Painted Pots pools of azure blue water; Steam rises from Grand Prismatic Spring; Iconic Old Faithful geyser in its glory. All photos taken in Yellowstone National Park.

Taggard Lake Trail, Grand Teton National Park

full day planned for the park. The geyser teases with several steam spouts before rumbling underfoot, signaling it’s time to erupt.

Big Sky, Montana  Our home base in Big Sky for the week was located in the Big Sky Town Center. We rented a spotless and well-appointed condo through Beehive Property Management. The property was walking distance to the Town Center (restaurants, retail, and services), and the Ousel Falls (a five-minute drive). The 1.6-mile roundtrip trail follows the Gatlin River, surrounded by towering cliﬀs and pines. We d e c i d e d t o u n i q u e l y experience Big Sky by horseback using Jakes Horses. The tour

crossed a flowing river before ascending the foothills of Big S k y. T h e To w n C e n te r a n d surrounding city appeared as a small dot in the expansive landscape from a vista at the ride's highest point. The Soldier’s Chapel, a Big Sky landmark since the mid-1950s, is a quick but worthy visit. The chapel was built by the local Story family as a memorial to WWII veterans. The lengthy driveway proudly displays American flags. A backdrop of the iconic snow-capped Loan Peak appears beyond the chapel. Inside, a massive window frames the same spectacular view. The intimate chapel welcomes visitors and holds multidenominational services each Sunday.

Big Sky is an outdoorsman’s dream vacation. There is so much to do, and with its close p r o x i m i t y t o Ye l l o w s t o n e National Park, Big Sky will certainly be on our list to revisit. As with all vacations, the return home is with sweet sorrow. This trip was diﬀerent. We knew returning to our respective homes meant entering into an altered quarantine environment and only connecting virtually with our family. Continuing with travel plans during the age of COVID-19 is essential. We felt fortunate to travel through many states where contributing to the local tourism economy is vital. Photos (L-R): Powerful Gibbon waterfall along the Grand Loop at Yellowstone National Park; Exploring mountain trails on horseback in Big Sky, Montana; Rustic bridge crossing on the Taggard Lake Train, Grand Teton National Park; 4. Moonscape view at the Painted Pots, Yellowstone National Park

Santa Barbara to Paso Robles: A Wine-Tasting Road Trip By Priscilla Willis

Cabernet Sauvingon Grapes Le Vigne Winery

s California slowly reopens following three months of sheltering-in-place, a wine-tasting road trip from Santa Barbara to Paso Robles may be the perfect antidote to pandemic weariness and a well-deserved escape. Awaken your senses while tasting beautiful world-class wines and reveling in the freedom that only a road trip filled with spectacular views of California’s legendary coast along Highway 101 can oﬀer.

Whether you consider yourself an oenophile or just enjoy exploring diﬀerent wines, Santa Barbara makes wine tasting incredibly easy with an array of hip, urban tasting rooms along the Urban Wine Trail. After a few days in the city, pack an overnight bag and hit the road for a quick two-hour drive to Paso Robles to experience the world varietals that have taken root in the glorious golden hills of California’s Central Coast.

Pioneer spirit in Paso Robles  Visiting Paso Robles is to venture back in time for an authentic and uniquely California experience. A little untamed with broad expanses of countryside, folks have been flocking here since the 1800s for the famed hot springs to cure what ailed them. Only a three-hour drive north from Los Angeles or south from San Francisco, Paso evokes a Wild Wild West spirit and oﬀers a welcoming respite from city life. And wine. Lots of wine.

Paso Robles world wine varietals  Paso Robles is California’s fastest-growing wine region and largest geographic appellation with 40,000 acres and over 200 vineyards. Paso’s unique geography, coastal influence, diverse soil types, and long growing season are excellent for wine grapes, which has given root to many international wine varietals. The region’s diverse microclimates grow more than 60 diﬀerent varieties of grape ranging from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to Syrah, Viognier, and Roussanne, to Zinfandel, the area’s heritage wine varietal. {Paso Wines}

Paso Robles wineries offering French varietals  Paso Robles has several wineries owned by Frenchborn winemakers who recognized that Paso Robles has the type of soil and climate necessary to grow Rhône varietals. Xavier Arnaudin of Union Sacré stands out as a name you will know, especially if you favor elegant Alsace white wines. “Xavier brings an old-world approach to his vineyard management, cellar, and winemaking. He is making very small amounts of very striking wines. The Riesling and Gewurztraminer, which see extended skin contact, are the sleepers, not to be missed.” {Le Storie Wines} Two long-time friends from opposite ends of the globe own Union Sacré. Xavier has an Oenology degree and WSET certification, from France, and Philip is a self-taught designer from Michigan. Their wines are elegant, single vineyard, single varietal wines that are table-friendly, and representative of France’s Alsace region, including Pinot Noir and drystyle Gewürztraminer, Riesling, and Pinot Gris.

For a destination experience with serene vineyard views, visit Cass Winery to taste their awardwinning, 100% estate-grown Rhone and Bordeaux varietal wines. Complement your tasting with a scrumptious lunch from the chef-driven menu highlighting locally sourced produce. All this, plus the distinctive architecture of the VIP tasting room and adjacent Geneseo Inn, are definitely worth the drive along the beautiful “back roads” east of Paso Robles.

Paso Robles wineries offering Italian varietals  To explore Italian wines on our quickie 24-hour wine-tasting road trip, my daughter and I visited Le Vigne Winery. Le Vigne is all about famiglia (Italian for family). The Filippini family came to Paso Robles in the early 1960s when winer y owner Sylvia Filippini’s family purchased the property where Le Vigne winery now stands. Initially, they raised hay and cattle until 1982, when they planted grapevines. The winery’s original plantings were Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon vines to supplement the growing demand of other wine growing regions like Napa and Sonoma. The family began making wine with the grapes from their estate in 1989 and built their stateof-the-art winery in 1995. They added additional vineyards and expanded wine varieties to include Merlot, Syrah, Sangiovese, and Cabernet Franc, and small blocks of Grenache, Petite Sirah, Malbec, and Tannat. Le Vigne stands out for the spacious patio with comfortable seating, welcoming staﬀ, and the specially selected wine and cheese flights for tasty

nibbles while you sip. Plus, the tasting room market features an extensive cheese selection and products from Italy and Spain available for purchase. Also, chef-owner Walter fires Neopolitan pizzas made with the secret family recipe tomato sauce, dough handmade on-site, extra virgin olive oil from olive harvested from Arbequina trees on the ranch. Note: Sunday is half price pizza day.

Paso Robles wineries offering Spanish varietals  Spanish-style wines in Paso Robles are growing in popularity, and every year more wineries are releasing A l b a r i n o s , Te m p r a n i l l o s , a n d G a r n a c h a wines. Wineries producing wines from Spanish varietals include Bodegas Paso Robles, Diablo Paso, and Bodega de Edgar. Bodega is the Spanish word for a winery or cellar and fitting, considering Torres’ Hispanic heritage and passion for Spanish wines. In a private wine tasting with Edgar Torres, owner of Bodega de Edgar, I sipped an astonishing array of wines. I learned how he honors his family’s Mexican roots while steadfastly promoting Spanish varietals.

Photos (Opposite from left): LeVigne Grape Arbor; PASO ROBLES Union Sacre Tasting Room; PASO ROBLES Cass Winery Tasting Room; (This page): LeVigne Wine Cheese Pairing; LeVigne Barrel Room; Straight Out Of Paso Bodega de Edgar

Bodega de Edgar experienced an unexpected hit in the limited release of Straight Out Of Paso. The reference to the cult movie “Straight Out Of Compton” made wine more approachable and appealing to a young urban demographic unfamiliar with wine. With demands for the brand blowing up, Straight Out Of Paso is the catalyst revealing another path for Torres, who values creativity and remaining relevant in a rapidly changing world.

Make your wine-tasting road trip an adventure  Get the most out of the scenic drive on Highway 101 from Santa Barbara with stops at three iconic state beaches: El Capitan, Refugio, and Gaviota State Beach. A day pass costs a mere $5.00 per car and gets your toes in the sand at all three beaches.

A must-see while in Paso Robles is internationally acclaimed artist Bruce Munro’s Field of Light at Sensorio. The 15-acre walk-through, solar-powered artwork is a sculptural composition covering Sensorio’s rolling hills with over 58,800 stemmed spheres lit by fiber-optics, gently illuminating the landscape in subtle blooms of morphing color. Margarita Adventures will get your adrenaline pumping as you zipline above vineyards and end with a wine tasting at Ancient Peaks Winery or ride among the vines and explore the rolling hills of wine country on a horseback tour with Central Coast Trailrides. See the sidebar for tips on planning and staying safe during your wine tasting getaway.

California’s Covid-19 guidelines for wineries  Please know that wineries and tasting rooms in Santa Barbara and Paso Robles are doing everything they can to ensure their staﬀ and patrons’ safety during the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic. Adhering to the state guidelines and CDC recommendations will help you feel safe and comfortable while visiting the many wineries, vineyards, and tasting rooms in the region. If you have questions regarding safety procedures, please reach out to the individual properties you plan to visit.

Tips For Wine Tasting and Staying Safe During Covid-19 Make a Reservation. Since only outdoor tastings are permitted, there may be limited seating. Make a reservation in advance to ensure an easy and eﬀortless wine tasting experience. Be on Time. Keep in mind that wineries are on a stricter timeline during this time. Most tasting rooms set aside 60-90 minute time frame for tasting reservations, so plan on arriving a little before your reservation time. Wear Your Mask. Tasting room staﬀ are required to wear masks. It’s also mandatory that visitors wear a mask until seated and anytime you leave your table to go to the bathroom or walk around. But no worries—you may remove your mask to sip the delicious wines or nosh on that fabulous cheese board. Plan a Picnic, Pick-up Takeout, or Order Lunch at a Winery. Two glasses of wine and you’re hungry! Be prepared with snacks, pack a picnic lunch, or plan on visiting a winery that has a restaurant or food options. Also, bring water, preferably a reusable water bottle. It’s important to stay hydrated and it’s easier when you have it with you! Plan to Visit 3-4 Wineries. Considering the size of Paso Robles Wine Country, plan on visiting 3-4 wineries or tasting rooms to ensure you have enough travel time between stops. Tasting rooms on Santa Barbara’s Urban Wine Trail are in close proximity to each other so visiting more that 4 is possible but not advisable unless you spit often. Consider Booking Transportation. Especially in Paso Robles where the wineries are spread out, consider booking a safe wine tour! Relax in the company of a knowledgeable local guide at the wheel, sit back, and enjoy the ride! Visit Mid Week. If possible, plan your getaway during the middle of the week when Santa Barbara and Paso Robles are a little quieter and lodging and tasting reservations are easier to get. Taste with a Small Group. Invite your squad to join you for an intimate wine tasting experience but please comply with social distancing measures and keep to a small group.

Photos (Opposite from left): Bodega de Edgar Private Tasting Room; Bodega de Edgar Service with a Smile; PASO ROBLES Bodega de Edgar; (This page): Union Sacre Alsace Style Wines; PASO ROBLES Bodega de Edgar Family Labels

From the

ake the most of your time in South Africa by combining a Kr uger National Park Safari with a road trip from Johannesburg to Hazyview in the Lowveld. But, keep in mind some essential tips before hitting the road. Drive on the left and give way, even across the yellow line, to allow speeding drivers to overtake. When someone lets you pass, flash the emergency lights to say, “Thank you!” Do not ignore a pitstop. Situated at petrol stations, they are few and far between. Keep small change in your car for tipping and the tollgate machines not accepting your credit card.

Victorian splendor in the mining town of Pilgrim’s Rest  We set our GPS for Pilgrims Rest in Mpumalanga. The GPS may indicate Witbank, but the signboard on the road reads eMahlaleni since many places in the ‘New’ South Africa have two names. After 140 miles, we hit a winding countr y road with alluring dams and green forests. We stopped in DullstroomEmnothweni, a popular fl yfishing destination, and joined the South Africans for tea a n d k o e k s u s t e r s a t Ro s e Cottage. The landscape soon changed to mountainous terrain, and at the

top of a crest, we turned into the defunct mining town of Pilgrim’s Rest. After a stroll through its one street, we booked into the historic Royal Hotel, restored to its Victorian glory. We sat down to the renowned dinner buﬀet, enjoying chili bites, samoosas, and whole snoek baked in lemon and black pepper as starters, and melktert as dessert. We washed down the gold roast pork main course with copious glasses of Pinota ge, South Africa’s signature red wine. Earl y the next morning, we stopped at The Three Rondavels (hills resembling grass huts), also known as The Three Sisters, located at the start

Photos (L-R): View from Gods Window 1, Blyde River Canyon on the Panorama Route, Mpumalanga, South Africa; View from Gods Window 1, Blyde River Canyon on the Panorama Route, Mpumalanga, South Africa; Three Rondavels at Blyde River Canyon on Panorama Route in South Africa; 4 Bourkes Potholes in Blyde River Canyon on Panorama Route, South Africa

Highveld to the Lowveld: A Road Trip to Kruger Park along the Panorama Route in South Africa By Elsa Dixon

of the magnificent 16-mile long Panorama Route.

stones carved out unusual shapes and colors in the rocks.

We c o u l d s e e f a r i n t o t h e Lowveld and even beyond to the mountains in Mozambique. The 2625-feet-deep Blyde River Canyon is the third-largest in the world and ranks number one as a verdant gorge.

As with all the viewpoints along the route, visitors pay a small conservation and parking fee at the entrance. There is a path accessible for wheelchairs.

The phenomenon of Bourkes Potholes  A s w e p a r ke d t h e c a r at Bourkes Potholes, we burst out laughing as monkeys ran across the parking bay. Walking across the bridges spanning the deep ravines, we marveled at this geographical phenomenon. During the ages, gushing water, whirlpools, sand, and grinding

God’s Window, Pinnacle Rock, and Graskop  From God’s Window, we had magnificent views of indigenous forests plunging more than 3000 feet down the ravines. Before leaving, I bought a beautifully crafted African heads statuette at a very reasonable price at the l o c a l c r a f t m a r ke t a t t h e entrance. Scarcely a mile further, we gasped at the sight of a herd of wild horses in the veld. Before

reaching Graskop, our final stop was Pinnacle Rock, rising like a giant finger, about a thousand feet up from the surrounding green canyon floor. As the sunset that evening, we b o o ke d i n t o t h e G r a s ko p Hotel (grassy hill), described by Greenwood Guides as ‘A n art gallery you can sleep in.’ We s a m p l e d S o u t h A f r i c a ’s iconic biltong (dried, cured meat strips) while exploring the excellent eateries and curio shops within walking distance.

Down the Blyde River Gorge in an elevator  Early morning, we held our breath as we descended in a glass elevator down the 67-feet-deep

Blyde River gorge past ochre cliﬀs and the tall Motsitsi waterfall. Inhaling the earthy smells, we followed a 2000-feet informational loop while watching visitors enjoying the Big Swing, zipline, and bungee jumping overhead.

Hazyview, the gateway to the Kruger National Park  Finally, we booked four nights at the Numbi Hotel and Suites in Hazyview, in the lush subtropical Lowveld. We had an exhilarating day meeting pachyderms up close at Elephant Whispers. Then we quad biked along the crocodile-infected Sabie River at Induna Adventures, ending with a mouthwatering South African braai on the farm. Unlike the American barbecue, a braai oﬀers various meats, like lamb chops, boerewors, and sosaties.

That night, we enjoyed local fare with the chief at Shangana Cultural Village and stomped with the traditional dancers. Hazyview is a main gateway to the worldfamous Kr uger National Park. We made exciting daily excursions into the Reserve through the Phabeni Gate. There is that element of pleasant surprise, whether you spot one of the Big Five or any one of the many smaller species. We finally dropped oﬀ the rental car at Skukuza airport, from where we took a flight back to Johannesburg, and unforgettable memories back home.

Photos (Top): Giraffe at Kruger National Park; 12 Elephant at Elephant Whispers in Hazyview, Mpumalanga, South Africa; Baboon at Bourkes Potholes in Blyde River Canyon, on the Panorama Route, Mpumalanga, South Africa; (Bottom)Quadbiking at Induna Adventures Hazyview, Mpumalanga, South Africa; Graskop Gorge Lift ; Wood-carved African figure curio at Blyde River Canyon

Sustainable Getaways in Oregon Wine Country by LM Archer

Abbey Road Farm Gateway

s COVID kicks our international travel plans to the curb, domestic adventures gain greater appeal. Now, more than ever, travelers crave kinder, gentler escapes closer to home.

A mere 45 minutes from Portland, Oregon’s Willamette Valley Wine Country proves the ultimate road trip. This popular food and wine mecca oﬀers a multitude of wineries, award-winning restaurants, and a host of family-friendly activities. Need a place to stay? Try these three sustainable Willamette Valley getaways designed to do good, while helping you feel good.

Abbey Road Farm | www.abbeyroadfarm.com | 10501 NE Abbey Road Carlton OR 97111  Bring your coziest fleece—and your appetite—to Abbey Road Farm. This eco-friendly B & B in C a r l t o n features three repurposed grain silos, an in-house chef, working farm, o r g a n i c vineyard, w i n e r y, a n d tasting room. Each 'Silo Suite’ sports comfortable bedding, soothing jacuzzi tubs, and toasty ambient floor heating, plus stunning hillside views. Make time to tuck into Abbey Road Farm’s famous multi-course breakfasts prepared by Abbey Road Farm's new innkeeper and chef, noted chef Will Preisch. Just follow the scent of fresh-brewed coﬀee to the charming dining room and tree-screened patio. Feast on fresh fruits, vegetables and eggs sourced from the inn’s colorful kitchen garden, plus meats, cheeses, and grains from local purveyors.

Photos (Clockwise from top, left): Abbey Road Farm Garden Views; Abbey Road Farm Winery Outdoor Seating; At The Joy Anahata Vineyard; Abbey Road Farm Guesthouse; At The Joy Bubbles; Abbey Road Farm Silos Garden

Don’t worry if you can’t finish everything - just feed your leftovers to the resident chickens Eeny, Meany, Miney, and Moe. Afterwards, meander past the inn’s menagerie of sheep, llamas, goats, and pygmy donkeys for scenic views from the lavender-rimmed garden. In the after noon, reser ve a private tasting at the ultrahip winery with head winemaker James Rahn. The spacious tasting room and outdoor space oﬀer a range of garagiste-style wines produced by a cadre of artisan winemakers. End your day with a nightcap on the r ustic guesthouse porch, wrapped in a hillside hush. Proprietors Daniel and Sandra Wilkens of Portland’s Quaintrelle Restaurant designed Abbey Road Farm to nurture body and soul. You’ll leave feeling refreshed, renewed, and reconnected.

At the Joy and the Anahata Vineyard | www.atthejoy.com | 5900 Zena Rd. Salem, OR. 97304   Luxury defines At the Joy and the Anahata Vineyard. This 30-acre retreat in Salem includes a threebedroom manor house w i t h u n o b s t r u c te d views of Eola-Amity Hills, fully-equipped culinary-grade kitchen, modern furnishings, gas fireplace, laundry, and gracious game room set amidst lush vineyards. Whether a last-minute escape, romantic getaway, or socially-distant ‘pod’ gathering, find your joy At the Joy.

Leave the stresses of COVID behind with a stroll around the 24-acre vineyard. Anahata means 'heart' chakra in Sanskrit. This estate vineyard for LytleBarnett sparkling winery names eight of its nine blocks "Joy" in a different language. The last, ‘SMP’, honors the p r o p r i e to r ’s a u n t , Sister Mar y Paule, who devoted her life to ser ving South Africa’s orphans and underprivileged schoolchildren. Equally sumptuous outdoor amenities comprise a 3bedroom guest cabana, alfresco dining, fire pit, BBQ, heated lounge area, swimming pool, and hot tub. VIP services for hire include estate pre-stocking, private chef, plus pre-scheduled activities, tastings and excursions. Wind down your stay with a sip of bubbles by the fire pit, watching the sun slip behind Anahata Vineyard. You’ll leave this oasis of calm eager to plan your next return.

www.atticushotel.com | 375 NE Ford St, McMinnville, OR 97128  Atticus Hotel walks the sustainable talk, supporting local artisans with every quirky detail. This historic hotel in downtown McMinnville offers 36 unique, carefully curated rooms replete with handcrafted furnishings, arts and eats. My stay in Room #24 featured intricate wood detailing by John Basile of Basile's Workshop, retro light treatments by Schoolhouse Electric, and plenty of live plants. In addition, every room offers top-notch toiletries, Portland-made Pendleton robes, and a wet bar stocked with regional teas and coffees. Downstairs in the vaulted lobby, attentive staff dispense specialty drinks to guests plotting itineraries to over 200 nearby wineries. Never lose track of the day of the week – as the front door mat changes daily! Bon Appétit deems McMinnville one of the top ‘Foodie Destinations in America.’ Enjoy in-house dining at Red Hills Kitchen at the Atticus Hotel, or at nearby eateries like La Rambla or Community Plate. Afterwards, burn off those calories with a ramble around the quaint town named a Parade Magazine ‘Best Main Street in America’ finalist. Don’t forget to pop into R. Stuart Wine Bar for bubbles before heading back for a snuggle by the fire. For more on Oregon Wine Country

Atticus

Hotel

For more on visiting Oregon

Photos (From top): At The Joy fire pit; Atticus foyer; Atticus foyer latte; Atticus Room 24 bedroom; Atticus Room 24 sitting area and fireplace; Atticus Room 24 bathroom

Road Tripping Texas Style ~ Exploring Three Trip-Worthy Towns in the Lone Star State By Sharon Kurtz

s Texas continues to creak open its doors after months of staying close to home, many of us are becoming restless and seeking ways to explore locally and safely. Discovering places that don’t make it on most tourist radars – my husband and I decided to head out on a road trip from Dallas to look for adventure in our own backyard. Along the way, we uncovered tidbits of colorful Texas history, visiting three road-trip-worthy towns less than a two-hour drive from home.

scenic bridges, and numerous ponds home to over 1,200 Koi fish.

Where the west begins

World-class museums abound

Our first stop was our closest neighbor to the west, Fort Worth, the City of Cowboys and Culture. Fort Worth was one of the most important stops along the Chisholm Trail, which connected cattle ranches in Texas to Abilene, Kansas, shortly after the Civil War. The Fort Worth Stockyards remain as a National Historic District, and visitors can watch authentic cattle drives twice a day, a holdover from the days when this city earned its nickname “Cow Town.” It’s the best way to experience the essence of what this historic western town once represented.

Soaking up the Texas sunshine   Along with the stockyards, we explored the beauty of the Fort Worth Botanic Gardens, one of the oldest and largest botanical gardens in the U.S. The Japanese Garden, completed in 1973, is worldrenowned. It is seven and a half acres of winding paths, filled with cherry trees, Japanese maples,

Next, we visited the Fort Worth Zoo; USA Today named it the #1 Zoo in the Nation. The zoo is home to more than 7,000 animals and 12 incredible exhibits, ranging from the African Savannah to the Australian Outback. The zoo currently required advanced reservations, limiting attendance, and staggered entries. Visit here to find out more. Masterpieces are plentiful in the Fort Worth Cultural District museums, one of the finest collections of museums in America. In a single, parklike setting, you can span the entire history of art, f rom priceless antiquities to Impressionist milestones to modern artworks. My favorites include the Kimbell Art Museum and the Amon Carter Museum of American Art. My husband was disappointed that the Sid Richardson Museum, located in historic Sundance Square and featuring Remington and other late 19th century works about the American West, was closed. The museums have all adopted pandemic safety measures; find out more by clicking here.

Small-town Texas with room to breathe   After an early dinner, we headed southwest over softly rolling hills that are high enough to see for miles. This area is squarely in the central plains, often called the North Texas Hill Country, which is best known for its ranching and farming. The beauty

Photos (L-R): Fort Worth Stockyards  ©visitFtWorth; Japanese Gardens;  Fort Worth Botanic Gardens; Cedar Cabin Front Porch

Nestled in the trees on the Paluxy River

of the ranch land is not only in the land but also in Texas’s nostalgic bygone days.

At the edge of Glen Rose on the Paluxy River and less than 10 minutes from Dinosaur Valley State Park are the Paluxy River Bed Cabins, a refuge from the world we left behind. Our two-story Cedar House Cabin was our private retreat in the trees, the balcony oﬀ the upstairs master bedroom perfect for stargazing. My favorite place was sitting in the comfy rocking chairs on the porch at sunset, gazing at the river.

Dinosaur capital of Texas

Walking in dinosaur footprints

Small-town Glen Rose filled with history, food, and nature, was certainly trip-worthy. There was no better place to start exploring than the town square, with a detailed limestone courthouse, completed in 1893 in the center, surrounded by antique shops, small cafes, and coffee shops. Entering the oldtimey Shoo-Fly Soda Shop, shimmying up to the original counter with twirling stools, and ordering a handmade milkshake was like stepping back in time. The Storiebook Café was an excellent find for a lunch stop, with a great story. Located just off the square, it has made a cozy home in the old rock building converted from a 1940 era gas station. Owner Storie Sharp shared, “We actually started as a bookstore, offering one sandwich and soup a day. When we became more café, we found our niche with the lunch crowd of locals and visitors.” The atmosphere is fun and friendly, with books and teacups on the walls. The ABC sandwich (that’s Avocado, Bacon & Cheese) was delicious, and as the door way sign prompted us, we did “enter as strangers, leave as friends.”

Long ago, dinosaurs roamed the area around Glen Rose and left lasting impressions in what is now the bed of the Paluxy River. We walked in these same tracks preserved in the rivers’ limestone bottom at the Dinosaur Valley State Park, complete with two 50-foot tall dinosaur statues at the park entrance. The Tyrannosaur us Rex and sleepy-looking Brontosaurus were created for an exhibit at the World’s Fair in New York City in 1964 and found a perfect home at the park.

View from horseback perspective   The highlight of our day in Dinosaur Valley State Park was a guided horseback trail ride at Eagle Eye Ranch, a livery concession in the park. Saddling up to explore the scenic 150 acres of equine trails under gorgeous Bur oaks and pecan trees, we enjoyed the spectacular views as our trail guide Levi shared the area’s history. Being on the back of a horse gives you a diﬀerent perspective of the park’s untouched beauty and a connection with the past while imagining dinosaurs roaming here more than 100 million years ago.

Wildlife safari, Texas-style   Since I couldn’t go on my planned African safari this year, we did the next best thing and headed to Fossil Rim Wildlife Center. With animals from six continents, including giraﬀes, cheetahs, zebras, emus, and American bison, their mission is the conservation of species in peril, scientific research, and public education. With safety measures and some restrictions in place, it’s necessary to purchase tickets in advance.

Rough Creek Lodge and Resort  With 10,000 acres in the middle of rolling hills and grassland prairie, Rough Creek Lodge has plenty of “elbow room” to spread out, which is part of the allure. We suspected from its stellar reputation of being luxury on the prairie that we were in for a lavish treat. After settling in our Lone Star Suite, complete with a p r i v a te p o o l t a b l e a n d p a t i o r o c k i n g c h a i r s overlooking the tranquil Mallard lake, we set out to discover some of the outdoor pursuits, including fishing, miles of nature trails, horseback riding, and more. Award-winning chef Gerard Thompson creates his menus daily and uses locally sourced meat and produce to concoct some out-of-this-world dishes. His talents and culinary interpretations of rustic American Cuisine have earned him superlative reviews, and the dining room has been named one of the best restaurants in the country.

Putting ourselves in his skillful hands, we savored the fivecourse chef ’s tasting menu, each course more sumptuous than the last, paired with a 2016 Benton Lane Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley. From the high-ceilinged dining room’s rustic elegance to the savory, imaginative dishes, the dining experience was the highlight of our Texas road trip adventure.

The best historic small town in America   We circled back to Dallas along the meandering bend of the Brazos River, where we discovered the City of Granbury dripping with historical interest, small-town charm, and did I mention ghosts? Named Best Historic Small Town in America two years in a row, Granbury was the first city in Texas on the National Register of Historic Places. The Hood County Courthouse anchors the picturesque town square, with an imposing three-story clock tower. With limestone buildings dating to the 1800s, cafes, live music, shops, and local art galleries, a simple stroll lets visitors know that this town has stories to tell. The quaint Travis Street Cottages were a perfect home base, composed of three charming cottages on a beautifully landscaped property, just steps from the historic town square along a shady hike-bike trail, passing the city park complete with fountains, ponds, and mature trees.

Dining, haunting stories, ghostly encounters   We enjoyed a delightful dinner on the covered patio of Farina’s Winery and Café, located in a historic red

brick building on the square. It has an expansive menu ranging from artisan cheese plates, salads, pasta, pizza, and steak, with a well-stocked wine cellar. Rumor has it that outlaw Jesse James would sit in his rooms upstairs in this very building, watching the bank directly across the street. Why? Not because he was planning to rob it, but because it was the only bank in town where he deposited his own money. Not many people would expect a charming town of fewer than 12,000 residents to be rife with paranormal activity. Established after the Civil War in the 1800s, Granbury’s small town has had time to stock its streets and historic buildings with ghastly tales and haunting stories. Brandy Herr, the author of Haunted Granbury, delves into Granbury’s most haunted locations’ devilish history and delivers a healthy dose of a frightening and mysterious past. We joined Brandy near the courthouse as she led a small group on a one-hour ramble around the square. She regaled us with ghostly encounters, wild west legends, and tall tales on The Granbury Ghosts and Legends Tour. If your bedtime allows, take the nighttime tour. When the square is veiled and shadows loom, it’s the perfect time for a haunting. And with any luck, you’ll catch a glimpse of a ghost.

Photos (L-R): African Savannah exhibit Fort Worth Zoo; Dinosaur Valley State Park; Fossil Rim Wildlife Center ©VisitFtWorth; Dinosaur Track Site ©Zack Riggs; Granbury Courthouse ©ShadRamsey; StorieBook Cafe; Cedar Cabin Front Porch; Shoo-Fly Soda Shop; Seared Diver Scallop; Oak Grilled Quail

Driving the Wyoming Suffragette Trail By Elaine Masters

f ever we needed wide-open spaces, rodeo thrills, and a beautiful drive, it’s now. Wyoming has all that but something else propelled my four-day road trip a few falls back. I was on the trail of the United States’ Suffragette Movement. Wyoming was a pivotal frontier for women in the United States. In the late 1800’s, the territory was in a race for statehood and needed more settlers quickly. A scheme was hatched and the day after the passage of the Suffrage Act, a Cheyenne newspaper commented,” …We now expect quite an immigration of ladies to Wyoming…We say, come on!” However, few men actually expected women to get involved in governing, let alone vote. However, women organized quickly and disproved that notion. After being the backbone of the pioneer surge as tireless homemakers, feeding hungry workers, and toiling alongside men hammerto-hammer, they demanded more recognized roles in the territorial government. Most notably, Esther Morris, took over several businesses in South Pass when her undisciplined, to put it mildly, husband was jailed. By the end of 1870, Justice Esther Morris was, “Gaveling Wyoming rowdies into the calaboose.” Other women became pioneering jury members in Cheyenne and Laramie; more aspired to become elected public officials. Luckily for the state, and the rest of the country, an effort to repeal the Suffrage Bill in 1871 failed passage in the all-male legislature by one vote. There was no turning back.

Cheyenne Restoration  I ‘set up camp’ at the Little America Hotel and headed over to the State Capitol building. It proudly covers acres in the middle of town and has just reopened to the public after an extensive, expensive, and gorgeous renovation. Over 130 years ago the Capitol building’s architects relied on wood and stone, paint, and carving. Time left its mark, and with a long list of repairs the complicated expansion and restoration began years ago. Now, the Capitol building has reopened. How I wish to have seen the unveiling of the immense statue of Esther Morris, the state’s first woman justice, in her new place of honor. If you visit,

yoming, the Equality State, has a long history of

championing women’s rights.

It was the first state to grant women the right to vote

(1869), to elect a woman to the legislature, to appoint a

woman to a jury, & to elect a female governor.

Photos (Opposite from top): Wyoming Womens Suffragette Pathway; Bar Vee Ranch on a Wyoming Fall Morning; Moose Family on a Wyoming Fall Day; South Gap Lake Trail on a Wyoming Fall Morning. (This page): Louisa Swain the First Woman to Cast Ballot; South Pass City Gold Camp Plaque

download the Capitol Square Tour book for a selfguided walk through the impressive chambers.

Small boots, Big Steps   The huge galleries of the Wyoming State Museum overflow with western artwork, buggies and statues dedicated to the State’s history. However, most of the memorabilia focused on women leaned towards Miss Frontier Days awards, homemaking, and period clothing. On a side street near the Capitol, the Cowgirls of the West Museum oﬀered more vibrant evidence of the power of the State’s founding women. While the small space was packed with historical furniture and lots of rodeo riders, the walls were filled with framed stories about women leaders: early movie stars turned rodeo performers, renowned hunters, a newspaper founder, and even a Vice Presidential candidate. Through it all, Wyoming women’s’ spirit of adventure and their hard work to create a western civilization out of the open range rang true.

Eat and Stay  The Cheyenne Little America Hotel rooms were spacious and the décor leans towards a colonial style. Parking was plentiful with easy access to the highway. Esther Morris lived in a small house that still stands near the Capitol. Today, it’s home to Bella Fuoco Wood Fired Pizza with the dining room “less crowded for these unprecedented times.” Join locals for breakfast at the Paramount Café, a movie house and ballroom turned coﬀee house and bakery.

Laramie   The quickest route from Cheyenne to Laramie runs along Highway 80, about an hour in decent weather. I rode over to the Wyoming House for Historic Women in a downtown neighborhood behind a central courtyard. The unyielding gaze of Louisa Swain flows from a statue in a place of honor before the entry. In her hand is a ballot, the first ever

Q If a woman can do

the same work that a man can do and do it just as well,

she should have the same pay.

~Wild Bill Cody

Q submitted by a woman in the United States. Twelve other women join her inside the museum including Eliza Stewart, the first woman subpoenaed to serve on a court jury, Martha Symons Boies, the first woman in the world appointed as bailiﬀ and up to Lynne Cheney, Wyoming’s first “2nd Lady,” author and wife of the former Vice President of the United States. Less lofty but still fun stops in town include The Bent and Rusty Cotton Company and Cowgirl Yarn; two women run Laramie emporiums. Bent and Rusty founder, Billie Eckhardt hunts for castoﬀs and old pieces across the countryside, renewing and reconfiguring them for sale online or in the shop, and now a Craftsman Coop flourishes in the downstairs workshop. Cowgirl yarn is home to the largest collection of Wyoming grown yarns and fibers. Both have reduced hours but remain open. Eat and Stay  I spent the night in a cozy cabin at the historic Vee Bar Dude Ranch, about 27 miles from Laramie. In Laramie, the vegetarian menu was packed with international flavors and plated in huge portions at Sweet Melissa’s.

Lander   Some say the Eastern Shoshone Tribe has lived in the Wind River environs for over twelve thousand years. The tribe was instrumental in Lewis and Clark finding a waterway to the Pacific Ocean. Without Sacajawea, a well-known Shoshone woman, and the safe passage guaranteed by her people, Lewis and Clark would never have succeeded. Today, the Shoshone Tribal Cultural Center has collections of art and crafts inside the cultural center and in less trying times, hosts public celebrations throughout the year. I’d love to return to the Wind River area for camping and hikes in warmer months. Eat and Stay  It’s a three-hour drive from the Vee Bar Ranch to Lander. Before checking in at the Shoshone Rose Casino and Hotel, I had breakfast at the Mountain View Hotel and Café, then tackled the lower Gap Lake trail in the Sugar Loaf Recreational area. A popular family camping stop, the city of Lander is also home to art galleries and boutique accommodations, like the Mill House Inn.

Q South Pass City  The ne wl y dedicated “Wyoming Women’s Suffra ge Pathway” r uns adjacent to the old mining town of South Pass City.After the Civil War, the pioneer city was roiling with Union and Confederate soldiers, Czech miners, Irish settlers and Chinese immigrants. Esther an orphan, widow, and mother made history before she left South Pass. She became the first woman appointed as Justice of the Peace in Wyoming and the world.

Casper  Casper is a center for hunting and flyfishing, but the city was central in establishing rail commerce and industry. I loved the hands-on displays (ride in a stage coach, pull a pioneer cart…) inside the National Historic Trails Interpretive Center.Weather didn’t permit but I’d love to return for a w a g o n to u r w i t h S t a g e T h r e e Community Theater and their presentation about the Women of the Trails. Eat and Stay  Ramkota Hotel, ramkotacasper.com, Cheese Barrel – caspercheesebarrel.com, nhcf.org,   Coﬀee Stop at Crescent Moon Café, cmcoﬀeestop.com; Dinner at the Pump Room Driving back to Denver gave me time to think about the ways the pioneering women of Wyoming have impacted my life. I have independent freedom to travel, voting rights, and run a business. Wyoming’s pioneering sisters led the way.

Photos (Opposite from top): Shoshone Cultural Center Hoop Dance Prep; Picture of Esther Hobart Morris Statue from Inside Her Cheyenne House; (This page): Pioneer diorama inside the Wyoming Interpretive Trail Center; Billie Eckhardt inside the Laramie Bent and Rusty Emporium; Breakfast in Lander Wyoming; Inside the Casper Wyoming Interpretive Trail Center

Riding in Cars with Turistas: My Road Trip through Mรกlaga and Seville, Spain by Elizabeth Orient

he scent of ocean air mixed with fresh asphalt woke me from my slumber. The sound of construction filled my ears as I opened my eyes. Shipyards and industrious workers whizzed past our car. The sea vanished behind us as we turned down an alley that appeared out of nowhere. “What a strange first impression of Málaga,” I thought to myself. “Let’s see what this port city has to oﬀer.”

Exploring Malaga  We parked on a nondescript road in the middle of town and ate lunch at La Fabrica brewery. My friends and I checked into our Airbnb, dropped oﬀ our luggage, and explored the neighborhood. We particularly appreciated the Plaza de la Constitución, which introduces the Historic Quarter of Málaga. The intricate tiling and stately fountain complements the 17thcentur y architecture that frames the square. The rest of our afternoon was devoted to navigating the busy streets on foot. We spent the next day touring Catedral de Málaga (the cathedral), Alcazaba de Málaga (the fortress), and Castillo de Gibralfaro (the castle). As expected, Catedral de Málaga was colossal and breathtakingly ornate. Fully experiencing its impressiveness requires at least a few hours. Don’t rush through the exhibits and histor y lessons! Our leisurel y pace preserved our energy for the hike to the fortress and castle —a challenging trek rewarding us with 360° views of the bay and city as Gibralfaro proudly looked on.

Plaza De Espana, Seville

T h e h i ke d o w n f r o m Al ca z a ba a n d Gibralfaro worked up our appetites. I always recommend El Patio Bodega and El Pimpi to anyone planning to visit Málaga. El Patio is known for its ea sygoing atmosphere and seemingly infinite options for paella. El Pimpi is a popular spot among the locals. Their tapas, wine, and desserts make the establishment a pil lar of

Photos (L-R): Malaga Alcazaba; Malaga Plaza; Malaga Cathedral

authenticity. Pull up a seat to one of El Pimpi’s barrel tables on the sidewalk and watch the lively nightlife of Málaga unfold.

Hammam Al Ándalus (the Arabic bathhouse)  We saved the best for last—Hammam Al Ándalus (the Arabic bathhouse). The girls and I treated ourselves to a relaxing soak and individualized massages. Although we were not permitted to photograph the interior, the Arabic architectural features had us speechless. “I have never been so at peace in my life” is the perfect statement to describe the experience. The environment is meditative, clarifying, and humbling. I felt honored to have walked through Hammam Al Ándalus’ doors. We left Málaga feeling rejuvenated for the second half of our road trip— Seville, Spain.

Village of Ronda  Along our drive from Málaga to Seville, endless open space suddenly gave way to the mountaintop community of Ronda. The village is perched on El Tajo gorge, which separates the city’s “new” town (built in the 15th century) from its old town (built during Moorish rule). A stone bridge, Puente Nuevo, crosses the gorge and oﬀers stunning views of the region. Highlights of Ronda include the Plaza de Toros (the birthplace of bullfighting), La Casa del Rey Moro (the House of the Moorish King), and Paseo de Ernest Hemingway. Having

lunch on the patio of Mesón El Sacristán was exactly what we needed after hours of exploring. The restaurant is cozily nestled up against a picturesque church. Rumor has it that Mesón El Sacristán has access to Arabic and Roman ruins downstairs. I will have to return to see them for myself.

And Now…Seville  The magic of Ronda fueled our excitement for Seville. After two more hours of rolling hills, Seville greeted us as we drove around a bend of the Rio Guadalquivir. We settled into our hotel and didn’t waste any time to get out for some sightseeing. When I’m in a new city, checking out the local churches and cathedrals is first on my list. Catedral de Sevilla did not disappoint. It was constructed in the 16th century and is the largest gothic cathedral in the world (23,500 square meters or 253,000 square feet). Its bell tower, La Giralda, is a stately 105 meters (343 feet) tall. Did you know that the grounds were home to the Almohad Mosque until the conquest of Seville in 1248? During conversion, the cathedral shifted liturgical orientation from facing south (toward Mecca) to east (toward Jerusalem). Time did not allow me to wander the Real Alcázar and Plaza de España. However, both are equally important places to visit. The Real Alcázar is known for its luxurious gardens, fountains, pavilions, and art

galleries. It was built in the early middle ages and its architecture is heavy influenced by the Renaissance. The Plaza de España was designed by Aníbal González in 1929 and sits within the Parque de María Luisa. The estate covers an impressive 45,000 square meters (480,000 square feet) with a canal running through the park. Taking a boat/gondola ride is highly recommended. As you drift along the waterway, your surroundings might look familiar: Star Wars and Game of Thrones were both filmed at the Plaza de España.

Dining in Seville  We c o u l d n’t h a v e b e e n h a p p i e r t o s t u m b l e upon Sacamuelas while strolling around the city. The restaurant oozes charm with its stone walls and quaint

furnishings. Sacamuelas specializes in Mediterraneanstyle cuisine, and their patatas bravas, roasted peppers, risotto, and goat cheese salad were delicious. We also received excellent service from the wait staﬀ. Not far down the street is Créeme Helado, which is the ultimate spot for dessert on a hot day. The owner makes his ice cream with fresh produce and is always churning out creative combinations. I’m talking about honey, lavender, lemon, almond, black sesame, green tea, etc. Craving a certain flavor? I am sure Créeme Helado can fulfill your dream. Málaga and Seville, you captivated me with your food, history, culture, and architecture. Vuelvo enseguida, España (I’ll be back, Spain)!

Photos (Top, L-R): Top 3 all Puente Nuevo; Middle 3 all Cathedral of Seville; (Bottom): El Tajo; Royal Alcazar; La Giralda

Road Trip to the LBJ Ranch in Stonewall, Texas By Barbara Redding

LBJ’s beloved ranch is one of the only presidential sites that take visitors from “the cradle to the grave site.”

tretching along the fertile Pedernales River Valley in the Hill Country of Central Texas, Stonewall is a quiet community of cattle ranches, peach orchards, and vineyards.

Its best-known resident was Lyndon Baines Johnson, the 36th U.S. president whose ranch became the “Texas White House” in the 1960s. Though Texas has claimed two presidents since then—George H.W. and George W. Bush —Johnson is the only one who was born and who died in Texas. Presidential history was far from my mind when I set oﬀ from Austin on a 60-mile road trip west to the Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park in Stonewall on a searing hot August day. After five months of coronavirus quarantining in my Austin bungalow, with its equally petite yard, I just wanted to escape to the country.

Subtle beauty of the ranch  In the process, however, I rediscovered the subtle beauty

of the rambling ranch that shaped and comforted a president facing a diﬀerent set of world problems. Road trips to the Hill Country are customary for urban Texans like me. It’s where we take friends in the spring to marvel at the beauty of Texas wildflowers and to raise a glass of wine on the outdoor patio of one of the Hill Country’s many wineries. (Texas is the fifth largest wine producer in the U.S.) Fredericksburg, with its oompah German heritage and cozy bed-and-breakfasts, is the primary destination. Just a dozen miles east, Stonewall, with all of 500 residents, is garnering more notice as new wineries, distilleries, and attractions fill in the countryside.

Coronavirus closes Texas wineries   But this was no typical road trip. The ranch was open but most state businesses were closed when my companion and I packed the car with a picnic lunch, hand sanitizer, and masks. Once we cleared the capital city’s burgeoning suburbs, we began to relax as farms and ranches stretched out around us. Fields dotted with prickly pear cacti and cedar trees glistened in soft shades of green and gold, in defiance of the relentless summer sun. We cruised through Johnson City without stopping to visit LBJ’s boyhood home and the Johnson Settlement, where the president’s ancestors scratched out a living on a farm dating back to the 1800s. LBJ state park headquarters is there, but was closed.

Vineyards and peach orchards   I tried to count the signs for wineries that now line both sides of U.S. 290 between Johnson City and Stonewall. But I almost missed the entrance to the LBJ park. On my first visit as a new Texan more than 20 years ago, peach orchards outnumbered vineyards and the only way to see the ranch was on a tour bus. Today the 600-acre ranch is open daily for free, selfguided driving tours. At the visitor center, where we picked up a ranch map and windshield pass, I noticed a cardboard cutout of the six-foot-four-inch-tall president. He, too, wore a mask.

Photos (Opposite, Top-Bottom): Pedernales River at LBJ Ranch ©LBJ Library; LBJ Ranch sign welcomes all; Reconstructed birthplace of Lyndon Johnson ©LBJ Library.; Air Force One-half at LBJ Ranch @LBJ Library; (This page, Top-Bottom): The Texas White House ©LBJ Library; Fences on LBJ ranch ©LBJ Library

From there, we followed the Pedernales River, past the spot where President Johnson drove a 1934 Ford Phaeton over the river along the dam. We took the conventional route across a bridge, where a stone sign greeted us with LBJ’s own words: “All the world is welcome here.”

tasteful granite stone bearing the presidential seal marks Johnson’s grave. His wife, Claudia “Lady Bird” Johnson, lies next to him; her headstone etched with a single wildflower.

A living, working ranch

Roadside signs tell stories

“That’s still true today, especially during the pandemic”, said Vanessa M. Torres, a program manager with the national park. “We’ve become a more urban society so visiting a living, working ranch is a unique opportunity.”

From there the ranch road winds through acres of golden pasture land. Roadside exhibits tell stories about the president’s life. After stopping to read about LBJ’s aﬀection for Hereford cattle, we spied dozens of chunky brown-and-white cows grazing contentedly.

LBJ’s beloved ranch is also one of the onl y presidential sites that take visitors from “the cradle to the grave site.” We felt the weight of history as we strolled beneath towering live oaks and pecan trees to the modest two-room home that was reconstructed on the site of the president’s original birthplace in 1908. A soft breeze rustled the leaves as we crossed the road to the peaceful Johnson family cemetery. A

The road loops around the Show Barn, where there is usually a newborn calf, and then runs parallel along the ranch’s landing strip. Though the visitor center in the hangar was closed, we parked to admire the Lockheed Jetstar, dubbed “Air Force One-half ” by Johnson, because it was small enough to land on the runway. We found a shady spot on the lawn of the former “Texas White House” for our picnic. As the river rippled past, I silently thanked LBJ for our escape— though temporary—from the stress of this deadly virus.

Photos (Top, L-R): LBJ cattle brand ©LBJ Library; Stare down with a Hereford; Hereford cow and egret on LBJ ranch ©LBJ Library; (Bottom): Graves of President and Mrs. Johnson in family cemetery.

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n i s re u t n h e c v a d e A B t r o p w e N re Michalski By D

eird

ewport Beach is a coastal town often described as the “gem” of Orange County, California. Nestled at the edge of the Pacific Ocean, Newport is known for charming villages, boating, water activities, hiking, and stunning beaches. In addition, there are seven tiny islands dotting the bay, an ecological preserve, golf courses, restaurants galore and ten neighborhoods — all oﬀering a unique Southern California vibe. Having lived in this area for almost 30 years, I have peeled back the beach blanket to share a treasuretrove of spots that are bound to make your visit extra-special.

Dining in A Lush Garden  In recent months, many restaurants have become very adept at creating inviting new spaces for outdoor patio dining. There are two restaurants that have been doing just that for years. Both are located smack-dab in the middle of lush gardens, creating a fabulous setting for celebration dining or a romantic date night. Café Jardin at Sherman Library & Gardens is located in the heart of Corona del Mar. This French-inspired lunch spot is set within a 2.2 acre garden. Sherman Gardens is a living oasis that changes with the seasons, with a koi pond, turtles, succulents, amazing florals, fountains, flowering trees and lush greenery. Chef ’s Pascal Olhats and Jessica Roy oﬀer elegant patio dining for lunch Wednesday through Saturday, Sunday brunch and special event dinners. Photos (Top): Corona del Mar coast;   (Bottom): Rent a boat for the day. ©Riva de Balboa Boat Rental

The Farmhouse at Roger’s Garden is just steps away from Fashion Island. Roger’s Garden is a candy store for serious gardeners and interior designers alike. It is a nursery, but so much more. They have rooms filled

with seasonal home goods, gift items, candles and custom floral arrangements. Chef and owner Rick Mead’s restaurant features tables that are literally tucked in among the plantings creating an intimate dining experience. Serving lunch, happy hour and dinner, it’s a wonderful escape.

Exploring Historic Crystal Cove  This 12-acre Historic District of Crystal Cove right on the beach retains its charm from the 1930s and still today, every evening at 5:00 pm, the trumpet sounds the familiar toast to Happy Hour. The Beachcomber Restaurant and Bootlegger Bar serve delicious food and beverages, and the Crystal Cove Conservancy is renovating the many historic cottages that are available for rental. Guests can walk, or take a bus from the parking lot at Los Trancos Creek Road down to the village. Insider’s Tip: Since reservations are hard to get, we set up camp with our beach chairs right on the water. The restaurant will buzz you when your table is ready!

Make a Big Splash in a Spectacular Pool   One view I never tire of is the Coliseum Pool at the Resort at Pelican Hill. This pool is one of the most unique I have ever seen. Imagine this— a circular pool measuring an expansive 138 feet across. Perched

above the well-maintained green golf course, the resort faces the shimmering azure waters of the Pacific and stunning ocean views. To enjoy a swim here, one needs to be a resort guest staying overnight, or you can rent a Cabana (subject to availability, of course). I have rented a Cabana and which is great fun. Typically, I enjoy the pool while dining at the nearby Coliseum Pool and Grill. If you time it right, this outdoor patio is the perfect spot to capture stellar sunset photos. This will however, make your friends at home very jealous.

Jump In... The Water’s Warm  Balboa Water Sports rents Sea-Doo's for both single and tandem adventures. These can be ridden beyond the harbor and riders enjoy getting out in the open ocean to enjoy more active water. We delight in seeing dolphins, sea lions, and beautiful boats skipping across the water. Stand up paddle boarding in the Back Bay oﬀer more tranquil waters for newbies. Pirate Coast Paddle Company at Newport Dunes and Newport Aquatic Center are two great rental businesses. Insider's Tip: Don't miss the opportunity to ride the Ferry. This has been running continuously since 1919. Guests can hop on at Balboa Island (at Agate Avenue) or the Peninsula side (Palms Street). Cars, pedestrians and bicycles are all welcome.

Photos (Clockwise from top): Crystal Cove ©Jeff Mindell; Cafe Jardin; Coliseum Pool Day  Balboa Pavilion; Farmhouse entry; Electric Boat ©VisitNewport Beach

Skipper Your Own Boat...Or Not  For those who fancy being a boat captain, there are many options here in the West Coast’s largest harbor. Confident boaters can rent an electric Duffy Boat for a few hours and bring your own food and beverages on-board. Duffy Boat Rentals along PCH, and EB Rentals on Lido Village are two of my favorites. There are also boat rentals reminiscent of a floating bar with a canopy of palm fronds swaying in the breeze. Riva de Balboa has sleek wooden and fiberglass boats that are a throw-back to the 1950's. These boats can be rented on Balboa Island and just steps south of the Ferry. For those who just want to hand over the wheel, Captain Newport offers luxury boat and yacht charters with three-to-eight-hour cruise options. Newport Landing Whale Watching offers 120-minute excursions each day along with privately chartered boats. Imagine seeing giant blue, finback, and gray whales, dolphins, sea lions and endless bird life overhead. Davey's Locker also offers whale watching and is well-known for their deep-sea fishing jaunts for half or full day and even overnight excursions.

Day Trip to Catalina Island  Walking along Crescent Avenue (called Front Street by locals), the main boardwalk along the bay is filled with charming restaurants, ice cream shops, boutiques and hotels. It’s a lovely spot to meander, and guests can also arrange tours into the countryside of the island. Beginning in the 1920's Catalina was developed into a tourist destination by chewing gum magnate William Wrigley, Jr. I know it’s hard to believe, but this island is also famous for its buﬀalo. They were brought over to film Zane Grey's 1925 film The Vanishing America, and the film crew left them behind. Insider’s Tip: The Catalina Flyer catamaran oﬀers one daily departure from Newport at 9:00 am, arriving in the port of Avalon at 10:15 am. It departs Catalina at 4:30 pm and returns to Newport at 5:45 pm.

The Iconic Balboa Pavilion-A Beacon for Newport Beach  A six-minute ferry ride across the bay with boats all around is a lovely trip. Once guests are on the peninsula side, there’s a Fun Zone with a Ferris wheel, small shops, and game arcades. The historic Balboa Pavilion at the southern end is well worth seeing. The iconic building was fully completed on July 1,1906 to coincide with the completion of the Pacific Electric Red Car Line which began near Pasadena, winding down through Los Angeles and Long Beach, and ending on the Balboa Peninsula. The Pavilion presides over the harbor in regal elegance with its long sloping roof line and ornate Victorian cupola at its crown. It’s now home to sports fishing boats at the dock, a restaurant and bar downstairs, and a magnificent upstairs ballroom. For more information on things to do in Newport Beach, visit: www.VisitNewportBeach.com

Photos (Top-Bottom): Coliseum Pool at dusk; Back Bay; Tiki Boat

Lush landscaping and waterfalls at Natural Bridge Caverns

New Braunfels~ A Shining Star in the Texas Hill Country By Scott Kendall

ew York City has the Hamptons. Bay area residents have Napa Valley. And Houston has the Texas Hill Country.

Every year, millions of Houston area folks head out to get away from the big city’s crowded, hectic, busy life. And New Braunfels is one of the shining stars that attracts them to the vacation oasis Texans call the Hill Country. One of our favorite towns in the Texas Hill Country has always been New Braunfels. Conveniently located between Austin and San Antonio, New Braunfels has a small town’s friendliness and feel while still oﬀering many amenities of a larger city, with tons of fun things to do.

the caverns with engaging stories and answers to all kinds of questions to give us an even better understanding of this natural wonder. At the end of our tour, they treated us to a charcuterie board full of tasty treats and a bottle of delicious white wine. A fitting end to a wonderful experience!

Fun and challenges at Twisted Trails at Natural Bridge Caverns   Visitors can choose from the aerial challenges of the Twisted Trails Zip Rails and Ropes Course as they climb, shuﬄe, and zip their way through this adventurous new attraction. The AMAZEn’ Ranch Roundup is a 5,000-square-foot outdoor maze sure to amuse your family and friends. One of the alltime favorite activities is the Gem and Fossil Mining sluices, where young prospectors can sift through bags of “rough” to find their hidden treasures. When you’re ready for a break, check out Big Daddy’s Sweets, Treats, and Brew. And there’s always fun shopping in the Trading Post and gift shop.

Guadalupe Brewing for tasty craft beer  Natural Bridge Caverns  Our first stop was at the fabulous Natural Bridge Caverns. This underground wonderland was discovered by four college students back in 1960. Since then, the Wuest Heidemann family has explored, expanded, and improved the area to become one of the most spectacular and fun attractions around. The Discovery Tour, Hidden Passages Tour, and the Combo Tour oﬀer various choices to accommodate the young and the old, families, walkers, and adventurers. They also oﬀer Private VIP Tours & Experiences tailored to your family or small group for an extra special time. For example, on our private tour with just four people, a personal guide took us through

Guadalupe Brewing Company is a popular craft brewery on the southwest side of New Braunfels. Guadalupe opened their doors in 2012, and have expanded their outdoor seating and stage for live events and improved the landscaping for a welcoming outdoor atmosphere. They have already framed the new pizza kitchen, and it will be ready to serve fresh hot pizzas before the end of the year. Guadalupe Brewing gets creative with their craft brews. In addition to more traditional brews like Kolsch and Texas Honey Ale, they oﬀer unique flavors like the Smores, Banana Cream Pie, and German Chocolate Cake. The staﬀ is friendly and accommodating, and they make good on their promise “from our hearts the intention is to bring to you the best possible product we can make.”

The Gruene Homestead Inn  The Gruene Homestead Inn is one of the highestrated lodgings in New Braunfels. I was delighted when the Inn agreed to host us for a few nights. Starting with its ideal location, centrally located down the road from historic Gruene with its

outstanding music, shopping, and restaurants like the fabulous Gristmill River Restaurant, this is the perfect place to stay when visiting New Braunfels. Comfortable beds, intimately decorated rooms, and peaceful grounds spread out over eight wellmanicured acres; The Gruene Homestead Inn has it all.

wide selection of German, Texan, and other refreshing beers to wash down the wonderful food. Also, be sure to check out the schedule for live entertainment throughout the week and the weekly Saturday Farmers’ Market. Muck & Fuss Craft Beer and Burgers   Next door to the historic Prince Solms Inn and the cocktail bar Sidecar, Muck and Fuss has grown to be one of the most popular restaurants in New Braunfels. Relax with some of the tastiest burgers and 26 craft beers on tap from local and national breweries. Owners Terry and Celina Muckenfuss pride themselves on using only the freshest and best ingredients and are determined to serve dishes the whole family can enjoy. McAdoo’s Seafood  Located in the old renovated Post Oﬃce built in 1915, McAdoo’s is a popular seafood restaurant downtown, just blocks from the courthouse. Try something oﬀ the First Class Seafood Menu, like the delicious Redfish Pontchartrain, a blackened filet with sautéed shrimp and crab, shrimp, a delicious brown butter sauce, and dirty rice. Check out the Oyster Bar and extensive wine and beer menu.

Where to Eat in New Braunfels  New Braunfels is full of great restaurants. Here’s a shortlist to get you started. Gristmill River Restaurant and Bar  The Gristmill River Restaurant and Bar, overlooking the winding Guadalupe River, is the iconic New Braunfels eatery. Located in the three-story brick boiler room that survived a massive fire in 1922, the building was restored and in 1977 opened as the Gristmill. The restaurant sits on the Guadalupe River banks, the enormously popular destination for thousands of tubers, kayakers, and water lovers. Popular dishes include their famous steaks and burgers, Chicken Fried Steak, melt in your mouth Barbeque and other specialties like their tomatillo chicken and bronzed catfish. Krause’s Café  Feel a little German? You will feel right at home at Krause’s Cafe, the large Café and Biergarten. With the immense German influence first brought in by the founders of New Braunfels, the town is full of the food, cultures, architecture, and traditions of the old homeland. Treat yourself to some of the best schnitzel, bratwurst, Bavarian pretzels, and other German classics. And, of course, Krause’s oﬀers a

Photos (From opposite L-R): One of the many cool formations at Natural Bridge Caverns; Landscaped gardens with Twisted Trails in the background; Beautiful Gruene Homestead Inn; For great seafood, try McAdoos Redfish Ponchartrain in historic downtown New Braunfels; Charcuterie Board and Wine waiting for us at the end of our personal VIP Tour; Tasty Banana Cream Pie and Smores craft beers at Guadalupe Brewing

Boat Tripping to Find the Caribbean’s Greateﬆ Hidden Treasure By Bel Woodhouse

here’s just something about being out on a boat. The fresh ocean air ruﬄing my hair as we were zooming along from Cozumel felt like total freedom. Through unbelievable clear Caribbean waters, our dive boat passed a shipwreck resting in its watery grave in the aquamarine shallows, its rusty hull showing the ravages of time and tropical weather. It was invigorating, relaxing and soothing soaring over the coastal blues of Neptune’s playground. There’s something special about sea air, salt on your skin under a warm sun, and swimming in some of the most amazing ocean waters of the world that makes my heart sing.

Is it just me, or is travel more fun by boat? Playing pirates and letting your imagination whisk you away with the tide. It’s a whole diﬀerent experience being out on the water, and I always feel as though I’ve enjoyed a mini-holiday when the day is done. Unable to road trip as I live in Cozumel, Mexico’s largest Caribbean isle, exploring the cerulean seas to lesser visited gems is a wonderful alternative. The magnificent smaller islands and marine parks surrounding me are only accessible by boat. And by far, my most amazing experience was a visit to the Cozumel Pearl Farm, the only operational pearl farm in the Caribbean.

About the Pearl Farm  Nestled in a wide protected bay on the northern tip of Cozumel, the pearl farm is a private reserve of pristine natural beauty. Broad white sand beaches meet dazzling crystalline waters in this paradise. A huge sand bank changes color as light sea-green water deepens around fifty meters oﬀshore. First to turquoise, followed by the most perfect cerulean blue. It’s like stepping back to an untouched, unspoiled moment in time.

I couldn’t help but stop and take a moment to soak it all in while digging my toes into the warm sand beneath my feet. Something touched the nature lover in me as wildlife wandered all around me. Colorful bird’s flitting among the foliage drew my gaze as iguanas sauntered past, completely unafraid of humans.

What Makes the Farm So Special?   Photos (From top): Seaview from the farm; Shipwrecked during Hurricane Irma, Catch the Wave lies in its watery grave; Catch the Wave; Guadalupe, protector of the pearls. © Cozumel Pearl Farm

In this magnificent Mexican eco-sanctuary, they are doing the impossible —cultivating the Caribbean’s only pearl. The Cozumel pearl is the rarest of the rare. And being one-of-a-kind only adds to the allure.

Previously almost extinct in the region, the pearl is here again only because of the conservation eﬀorts of the Cozumel Pearl Farm. With great pride and an abundance of patience, they are saving this little oyster species, the Atlantic Pearl Oyster known as Pinctada radiata.

shallow waters to let our lunch digest, it was time to head out on the next part of our adventure.

Touring the Aquatic Operation

What to Expect on a Visit Here

Hands down this was the most fun I’d had in years — touring the aquatic operation by speed snorkel. This meant grabbing a big knot on a long line trailing behind our boat as the vessel gently putts along floating us through the entire pearl farm.

After Hurricane Irma devastated the island of Cozumel in 2005, the family-run operation rebuilt this low impact eco-friendly farm. Wind, water, and solar power are used to increase sustainability while blending into the island ecosystem with as little environmental impact as possible. All-natural materials were used, only enhancing its local beach vibe and rustic charm. Open-sided buildings with palapa-style thatched roofs were built to maximize the sea breezes. The largest structure, the all-important eating area, was well designed with a long wooden table next to an outdoor kitchen. Complete with a beach swing, it’s a perfect place to relax.

Learning about the Pearl  The education center and museo (museum) provide an opportunity for guests to learn about all things pearlrelated, including the diﬀerent pearl oyster species grown world-wide. An enlightening talk with the owners revealed five important factors that make a perfect pearl —luster, shape, surface, size and color. Next it was oﬀ to the lab. This place where the magic happens in creating one of the rarest pearls on earth. The entire process from the anatomy and seeding techniques to harvesting of the individual pearl taking roughly four years later is explained. Though I’ve always been fascinated with pearls, being drawn into the fascinating world of these rare gems boosted my love to an all-time high. By now, everyone had worked up an appetite so it was time to enjoy a lunch of burgers on the beach. After lazing around in the beach swing, relaxing in a hammock, and then paddling around the warm

Oyster towers fastened to the sea floor are clearly visible. Spawning lines reaching for the surface with pouches of pearls look like underwater vines. It’s an entirely diﬀerent world —the intricate magical aquatic world of pearls. Then came one beautiful surprise. The holy virgin Guadalupe’s giant sunken statue proudly standing guard over these precious island pearls. A silent sentinel slowly being covered in swaying sea fans and sponges made for an incredible sight. It’s hard to imagine we could see anything more spectacular than this, and then, we did.

Exploring the Pristine Reefs  Swarms of vibrant tropical fish glided around untouched coral reefs. Every color imaginable, from dazzling yellows to deep, almost luminescent purples that amazed the eyes. A queen angelfish lazily kept me company, its gold and turquoise hues blending perfectly with the surrounding water before delicately gliding under a rock ledge. Here, the thousands of tourists that flock to Cozumel daily are left behind. In this oﬀ-the-beaten-path untouched private reserve full of the most gorgeous sea life, we took our last looks before boarding a 40minute boat ride back to San Miguel de Cozumel— and the reality of life. Those wishing to visit the farm can find information here. Photos (L-R): © Cozumel Pearl Farm; Cozumel pearls in an Akoya pearl shell; Cozumel pearl oyster shell, front right–adult and red-lipped juvenile.

Must-Sees on California’s Highway One By Mary Farah

Beautiful Seal Beach sunset

f there’s ever been a time for a good old road trip to shine, it’s 2020. Whether it be travel restrictions or merely playing it safe, there’s no time like now to hit the open road and discover what’s in your backyard. Since I was born and raised in California, I’ve been fortunate to see a good portion of this beautiful state. I have many favorites but love any opportunity to take a ride up Highway One. From funky coastal towns to one-of-a-kind eats, these are eight cities along the “One” that are worth a stop.

Oceanside  Starting from San Diego County, Oceanside has captured my heart many times. Grab a cup of Joe at one of their locally-owned coﬀee houses and take a walk along their world-famous pier. Got some time to spare? Rent a bike and go for a scenic ride over the San Luis Rey trail. If staying over is in the cards, check into O’side’s iconic Fin Hotel to be in the center of the coastal action.

Seal Beach  Call me biased given I’ve lived in Seal Beach, but this Orange County town is a true gem. Often called “Mayberry by the Sea,” this tight-knit community oﬀers a bustling Main Street with adorable boutiques, bars, restaurants, and even a pub. Nosh on some worldfamous clam chowder and fish tacos from the Hangout, then check out open mic nights at Bogart’s Coﬀeehouse.

Ventura   As you continue north, you might notice those chill, laid-back vibes become more apparent. It certainly is so when you stop in Ventura. The ultimate “Beach Bum” haven, expect to see classic vans and hippie descendants enjoying their oasis. No visit to the town is complete for me unless I grab a sweet treat from Blenders in the Grass, and grub from Harvest Cafe. If you’re a hiker, don’t miss the up-hill trek to the Serra Cross at Grant Park. On a clear day, enjoy breathtaking views of the Channel Islands and Santa Barbara.

Shell Beach  While neighboring towns Pismo and Avila Beach often draw the crowds, Shell Beach has always been my favorite in San Luis Obispo County. Unassuming and with fewer than 9000 residents, Shell Beach truly oﬀers its visitors the chance to escape the noise. Meditate at one of their several parks or simply enjoy driving through with the windows down.

San Luis Obispo  Although not by the beach, San Luis Obispo is awfully close and worth some of your time. San Luis Obispo (or “SLO” as the locals know it) oﬀers an extremely eclectic experience ranging from kitschy hotels, attractions, and world-renowned cuisine. Take a peek inside the wild restrooms at the Madonna Inn, and leave your mark on famous Bubblegum Alley. Looking for a classier visit? Stay at Apple Farm, and make dinner reservations at Luna Red. Stroll the town’s main drags of Higuera and Marsh streets. Don’t expect to leave their shops empty-handed.

Cayucos  Another “hidden gem,” Cayucos oﬀers the perfect pit stop for a quick bite and more beautiful beach views. Grab a drink at one of their many bars (or a saloon!). No visit is complete without going to the Brown Butter Cookie Company. I always buy extra

intending to give as gifts, but somehow finish the bags before returning home. Oh, well.

Cambria   If you're crunched for time on your Highway One tour, make Cambria a priority. Despite its smalltown roots (Population is barely 7000), the tranquil city oﬀers plenty for all. From its beautiful Moonstone Beach to fine dining at Linn’s and Robin’s, you’re sure to fall in love while visiting. No matter the season, several festivities are always on the calendar from Scarecrow Festivals to holiday light extravaganzas.

Carmel-by-the-Sea  Last, but certainly not least, we end in the fairytale village of Carmel-by-the-Sea. You may have to stop and ask yourself if you are in California? Or a princess movie? If you have pooches in tow, even better. Carmel is continually rated as one of the most dog-friendly cities in America. Plan a night or two at the Hofsa s House Hotel, and make reservations (or take out) from Dametra Cafe. Photos (Top, L-R): Downtown Ventura awaits you; Views from the Ventura Harbor; Dogs love it in Carmel-by-the-Sea, too; (Middle): Shell Beach welcomes you; Learn about San Luis Obispo at the History Center; Cozy mornings at Carmel's Hofsas House Hotel; (Bottom): The iconic Apple Farm Hotel of San Luis Obispo; Catch some waves at Cambria's Moonstone Beach; Let the artistic side of Cayucos capture you

Highway 395: Gateway to the Eastern Sierra Nevada Mountain By Robin Dohrn-Simpson

orth of the Mojave Desert, the section of Highway 395 that runs to Mammoth Lakes and beyond, they call the Eastern Sierras. If you’ve heard of Yosemite, this is the other side of the mountains. The Sierra Nevada Mountains stretch 400 miles north to south and dissect California from the Central Coast to the Great Basin. Here you will find the extremes of Mt. Whitney, at 14,505 feet, the highest mountain in the contiguous United States, and Death Valley, the lowest point below sea level on earth, and the hottest registering 129.9° Sunday, August 16, 2020. Skiers have long traveled Highway 395 to get to glitzy, cosmopolitan Mammoth with its world-class runs, restaurants, and nightlife. Conversely, anglers and outdoor enthusiasts use the 395 as transportation to a world of quiet streams, majestic backdrops, and the possibility of a stringer full of trout. Each of the towns along this scenic highway has its unique charms. Here are some of our favorites.

Lone Pine

Once you pass the Lemon House, you’ll know it when you see it; you’re getting close to Lone Pine at the base of the Whitney Portal. This is where intrepid hikers gather to prepare to hike Mt. Whitney. Here you find the Alabama Hills, a formation of rounded rocks and eroded hills juxtaposed with the backdrop of the jagged Sierras. They’ve filmed many Western movies, including “The Lone Ranger” and “Gladiator” in the area. If

you’re a movie aficionado, definitely stop by the Museum of Western Film History.

Big Pine  Continue north to Big Pine, perhaps best known for Copper Top BBQ, “Where food makes friends.” Located on Main Street, you can’t miss it. When the grill master opens the lid, smoke wafts across the highway, enticing motorists to stop. The menu is simple, Saint Louis-style ribs, Santa Maria tri tip, and pulled pork. Not stopping here is a punishable oﬀense.

Bishop  Sure, it’s a great town to buy provisions, have a meal, and get gas. Still, its claim to fame is Erick Schat’s Bakery, famous for Sheepherder bread®, which originated in the California Gold Rush days when Basque sheepherders made traditional bread by hand using stone ovens. This famous stopover boasts Dutch delicacies, strudels, pound cake, cookies, candy, Cheeze breads®, and other bread types. Pullaway Breads, featuring the fruit of the season, are a favorite. Check out their separate wine tasting house next door.

Mammoth Lakes  Once a mining town, in 1877 Mammoth Mining Company found “mammoth-sized” silver and goldbearing quartz veins, the area got its name, and the rush was on. Today, Mammoth Lakes is a favorite area for outdoorsmen year-round. You’ll find snow skiing, snowboarding, biking, hiking, geothermal pool soaking, kayaking, and loads of fishing. The terrain is unique here, too, as Mammoth Lakes sits on the edge of an impressive Long Valley Caldera, a 20-mile wide extinct super-volcano that erupted 750,000 years ago. Mammoth Mountain Ski Resort draws sports enthusiasts both summer and winter. In summer, bring your bike and take the gondola to the top for a thrilling ride down the mountain. In winter, bring

Photos (From bottom. opposite): Mammoth Lakes; Lemon House; Mammoth Lakes; Mammoth Lakes sign; (This page). Lone Pine’s Alabama Hills; Lone Pine; Alabama Hills; Lone Pine

your skis and snowboards for a diﬀerent thrilling ride down the mountain. Either time of year is great fun! Click here to find current conditions.

resorts and campgrounds with multiple hiking trails. In winter they have a ski resort.

Devil’s Postpile National Monument

Death Valley National Park

Thousands of years of volcanic eruptions, glacial ice, earthquakes, and floods, and you get the Devil’s Postpile. The hexagonal basalt columns are one of the most awe-inspiring arrays of landforms in North America and are considered one of the world’s finest examples of rare columnar basalt. To get a deeper understanding of this geologic wonder, click here.

The Lakes  Ask 10 diﬀerent people what their favorite lakes are, and you’ll get 12 distinct answers. Many alpine and desert lakes dot the area. Mono Lake  This large desert lake has no outlet, resulting in high salt levels, making the water highly alkaline. It features a unique biosphere for brine shrimp, which is food for two million annual migratory birds. Here you will also find limestone towers called tufa dotting the shoreline. If you’re inclined, you can kayak around them. June Lake  My favorite lake has lots to oﬀer, including striking scenery and a cute town that’s peaceful and quiet. The village has a couple of excellent restaurants, a grocery store, and a marina where you can rent kayaks and boats. It has a large beach area with small family-run

Notable Side Trips

Death Valley National Park is a great day trip from Lone Pine. The valley can be extremely hot in the summer and cold in the winter. You can even experience flash floods. There is a diversity of life in this valley, from tiny fish to a wildlife refuge. Bad Water Basin is 279 feet below sea level. Interestingly, the lowest point in the western hemisphere is 80 miles to the east of Mt. Whitney, the highest point. You can take a few short trails. A notable hike is the Golden Trail, which, as the name says, is gold! Make sure you have a hat and lots of water and read about Death Valley National Park before visiting.

Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest  A quick detour to this pine forest is fascinating. Located high in the White Mountains, bristlecone pine trees grow at 9,800 to 11,000 feet above sea level. Methuselah, a 4,852-year-old tree, is considered the world’s oldest known and confirmed living non-clonal organism. Highway 395 may cast a spell on you, and you may find yourself drawn back time after time, season after season. Photos (Clockwise from top left)): Devil’s Postipile National Monument; Devil’s Postpile entrance; Mammoth. Mountain Ski Resort; Bristlecone Pine Forest

Roadtripping Through the Brandywine Valley Gardensâ&#x20AC;¨ 87

Nighttime fountain display at Longwood Gardens

By Rose Palmer

s a lover of gardens, I consider myself fortunate to be living in the scenic B r a n d y w i n e Va l l e y o f S o u t h e a s t e r n Pennsylvania and Northern Delaware. Within a 10-15 minute drive, I have five beautiful and historic gardens that I can enjoy and explore year round. For those wanting to explore the beauty that I call home, a long weekend road trip on the Brandywine Valley National Scenic Byway (Rt 52) will take you to all the best sights where you will discover the legacy left behind by one family: DuPont. In 1771 a young chemist by the name of E. I du Pont left France and settled on the banks of the Brandywine River in Delaware where he started a gunpowder manufacturing operation. He and his descendants built both a lasting business empire and a lasting legacy of estates and gardens. It is why this region is often referred to as Chateau Country. The DuPont family history starts at the Hagley Museum, Library and Gardens in Wilmington, DE where the first gunpowder works were established.

Photos (Clockwise from top left): A spring dogwood blooms frame a black powder mill building at Hagley; French gardens at Nemours Estate; French gardens at Nemours Estate; French gardens at Nemours Estate

The site includes the restored mills used for making black powder, a workerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s community and the ancestral house and gardens of the du Pont family. A stroll through the 235 acres will take you past outdoor exhibits and demonstrations, including a black powder explosion demonstration. Just down the road from Hagley is the Nemours Estate. This property is only open from May to November but is well worth a visit if you are in the area during that time. The French inspired mansion and formal gardens will make you wonder if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve left the country. Alfred du Pont built the largest French-style gardens in North America and the decorative French-style mansion in 1907 to show his love for his much younger second wife Alicia. Though this is a unique and beautiful location to stroll and explore, it is hardly ever busy. In fact, on my recent visit, I had the gardens all to myself for most of the afternoon. Continue your scenic byway journey north on Rt. 52 to Winterthur Museum and Gardens for another version of the DuPont story. Here, H F du Pont indulged in his passion for collecting early American furniture and decorative arts which he displayed in a 175 room mansion. As a trained horticulturalist, he also had a personal hand in designing the various elements of the extensive gardens. The gardens are

particularly colorful in spring as a succession of plants, shrubs and trees begin to bloom in early March and continue in waves throughout the naturalistic garden for two months. My favorite tine to stroll here is in early May when acres of white, pink, salmon, red, and lavender azaleas bloom alongside white dogwoods under a canopy of oaks, beech, and tulip poplar trees. Fall can be equally colorful as the woodlands that are part of the 1000 acre preserve change to vibrant shades of yellow and orange. In contrast, the nearby Mt. Cuba Center puts on a naturalized display of native woodland plants which peak toward the end of April when the dogwood path and the trillium garden are at their best. In the 1960â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lammot du Pont Copeland and his wife chose to focus their efforts on the conser vation of wildflowers and other local native species. Discovering the quiet paths here feels more like a walk in a native forest than a managed garden. Though only open till the end of November, this little gem is also well worth a stop. Continuing north along Rt. 52 and crossing the border into Pennsylvania will take you to the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most famous (and most visited) sight, Longwood Gardens. In 1906 Pierre S DuPont purchased a track of land to protect an arboretum with tress that were over 100 years old. This farm became the centerpiece of his summer residence which he developed into a showpiece for entertaining friends and family. The formal outdoor spaces were inspired by the French and Italian fountain gardens he discovered on his European travels. Pierre added conservatories and an outdoor theater, all of which became the core of one of the

Photos (From top left)): The naturalized gardens at Mt. Cuba Center; The naturalized gardens at Mt. Cuba Center; Azalea woods in full bloom at Winterthur Museum and Gardens; Colorful blooms abound in spring at Winterthur Museum and Gardens; Water lily display at Longwood Gardens

county’s premier horticultural display gardens. There is always something to see or an event to experience at this year round garden. Each season brings its own colors and themes. Whether it is a conservatory full of orchids in the middle of winter, a succession of spring blooming bulbs in the outdoor gardens, a 1000 bloom chrysanthemum in the fall, or millions of twinkling lights for the Christmas display, I always find something beautiful and uplifting when I visit. You can discover all there is to do in the region on your roadtrip via the Brandywine Valley tourism site. These five gardens in the Brandywine Valley are but a few of the choices available to you in America’s Garden Capital. With more time, you can continue your road trip and explore all 30 public gardens, arboretums and other historic locations, all within 30 miles of Philadelphia.

Where to Stay in the Brandywine Valley Start your Brandywine Valley road trip at the historic Hotel DuPont in downtown Wilmington, DE where you can stay in 5 star luxury and style. Located along Rt. 52, the Fairville Inn is a more intimate, though equally historic option.

Where to eat in the Brandywine Valley These are some of my favorite restaurants in the area that I go to regularly: Buckley’s Taven for American comfort cuisine Pizza by Elizabeths for not your typical pizzas all named for a famous Elizabeth Hearth Kitchen for creative and seasonal entres Wasabi3 for Asian Fusion and sushi

Photos (Clockwise from top left): A variety of magnolias bloom in spring at Winterthur Museum and Gardens; Lighted fountain display at Longwood Gardens; Vibrant fall colors at Hagley Museum and Gardens; A patchwork of tulips at Longwood Gardens in spring

On an Incoming Tide, We Arrive in Friday Harbor, The Gateway to the San Juan Islands By MaryRose Denton

umerous times I traveled to Friday Harbor, an eclectic town located in the middle of San Juan Island, WA, via the hour-long ferry ride from the mainland. But I had n e v e r e x p e r i e n ce d arriving by way of the San Juan Channel. Our trip began with us hitting some very dense fog as we crossed the Strait of Ju a n d e Fu c a t h a t morning. But as we entered the San Juan Channel and progressed north, the skies cleared a little. We began to see a shoreline of these rolling fjords making up this archipelago of i s l a n d s . Tr e e l i n e s became visible and we became aware of the shoal of porpoise following us, just oﬀ our port side. Exquisitely beautiful scenery surrounded us allowing me for a few moments to imagine myself in the Hebrides or cruising the waterways of Norway, another land with a very similar look. My partner Richard and I embarked on this sailing road-trip over a week prior, exploring the northern waters of the Salish Sea. Now, with the incoming tide, we cruised up the channel heading to our next

port of call, Friday Harbor, known as the “Gateway to the San Juan Islands”.

Friday Harbor  This charming, seaport town oﬀers a wide variety of culture, activities, shopping, and food. The best part, everything is within walking distance of either the ferr y landing or the marina allowing visitors to experience the slower pace of “island time”. Coming into port, a resident seal escorted us to slip #22, which would be our home for the next few days. Fr i d a y Ha r b o r i s known for its marine life from seals to the resident J,K,and L orca whale pods who call the waters around San Juan Island home. In fact, the University of Washington keeps a field station here specializing in the

Photos (From top): Birdseye view of harbor; A look at the ferry landing; Our boat Selkie docked in slip

Photos (From left): Friday Harbor Marina; Friday Harbor

study of marine biology. If spotting a whale excites you, there are whale watching tours available leaving the marina daily. After securing the boat to the dock, we found ourselves famished and ready for dinner! San Juan Bistro, a well-respected restaurant in town came highly recommended so we call in our order, letting owner Richard Daly know we can be there in 15 minutes. Currently, San Juan Island is in Phase 2 of our state’s Safe Start Plan due to the Coronavirus. Curbside pick-up is a viable option for restaurants such as San Juan Bistro to remain open and ser ving their community. Hand in hand, we strolled up Spring Street, the main outlet in this artisan town, knowing we can relax and kick back for a few days. There was no better place to be than Friday Harbor, WA. A couple of blocks up, we turned oﬀ onto Nichols street and found the renovated home of San Juan Bistro. We waited at the top of the staircase as Richard Daly hurried out to greet us, to-go bags in hand. The waft of our dinner tantalized our senses as we walked back towards the marina.

Once on board again, we settled into a magnificent farm-to-table meal beginning with a roasted carrot soup followed by a Thai Red Curry with seasonal veggies as a side dish This area is rich in sea life as well as its agriculture, and San Juan Bistro works closely with local farmers and fishermen to bring out the flavors of this region through their gastronomy. We paired our meal with a red Malbec wine and finished the evening oﬀ savoring a slice of apple cheesecake, for two. All while we watched the sunset over the harbor as it painted the culminate clouds a light pink. Those puﬀy clouds brought rain during the night, but we were in the Pacific Northwest, after all, where rain can happen unexpectedly. A slight autumn chill greeted us in the morning of day two as we headed into town for a walk, reminding us why the trees lining Spring Street were turning shades of orange. One of my favorite places to visit while in Friday Harbor is the Whale Museum. A natural history museum founded in 1979, the Whale Museum inhabits two floors full of exhibits as well as educational resources all on marine mammals throughout the Salish Sea. There is a primary focus on the resident orca pods including a chart showing their lineage throughout the decades. I find the

Photos (Clockwise from top left): Old Building with character; Friday Harbor Marina from Waterfront Park; Port of Friday Harbor; Peeking up Spring Street

whale skeletons fascinating as they so closely resemble our own. But what most impresses me is the museum’s stewardship of these whales through various educational and research programs, leaving me with a sense of hope for the future that these great giants will not be lost.

2nd street. As a vegetarian, I find Mike’s is a go-to favorite every time I visit the island. I rest assured the “meat” in the Reuben sandwich is created from plant-based proteins, and all their menu items help in creating a more sustainable and compassionate world.

Friday Harbor is home to many artists as well as marine life. The San Juan Islands Museum of Art, located right on Spring Street, is a haven for local art exhibits from all around the Pacific Northwest. As a side note, museums make a great escape to a rainy day.

Leaving Friday Harbor

A few blocks away on Price Street is the San Juan Historical Museum. An enchanting old homestead filled with interesting stories of the people who lived on the island and shaped its history, including a full recounting of the infamous Pig War, a dispute over the sovereignty of the island which ended peacefully. Besides visiting museums, I enjoyed meandering through the town’s small shops, which usually works up an appetite. For an early dinner, we chose to order from Mike’s Cafe and Wine Bar situated in the middle of the shopping district on

In the morning, I walked up through the waterfront park, past the totem pole and ferry landing, and turned down an alleyway leading me to the Saturday Farmers Market. A busy hubbub of shoppers greeted me as I made a beeline for fresh veggies from Mama Bird Farms. I seemed to find the secret spot for locals doing their grocery shopping. I purchased a luscious bag of mixed greens along with a bouquet of pink and red dahlias. These made a beautiful addition to the hull of our boat. Back on the boat, it was time for our departure. Leaving Friday Harbor is always bitter-sweet, but a new port beckoned us. We pulled out of the marina with clear blue skies above us and a mild wind in our sails.

Day Tripping to Lompoc &   Santa Barbara County   for a Taste of Good Wine By Cori Solomon

t does not take much to entice my husband and me to drive up to the Central Coast to go wine tasting. Santa Barbara County has so many areas to visit, including Solvang, Los Olivos, Santa Ynez, Los Alamos, and Lompoc. The various appellations of Santa Barbara County open the door to many options for tasting wine and a day trip to the area. There are wineries at every turn in all these places. If you are a lover of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and cool climate Syrah along with other coolclimate varieties, visiting Lompoc is the place to go, especially to the industrial park that houses the Lompoc Wine Trail, formally known as the Wine Ghetto.

Our journey is uneventful as we leave Los Angeles, but once we hit Ventura, I thoroughly enjoy the drive. We are past the hustle of Los Angeles and the San Fernando Valley. Calmness sets in as we view the California coastline, but once we pass through the tunnel and start our ascent up to Buellton, we truly notice the diﬀerence. The landscape changes to pastures filled with oak trees, telling us we have arrived in Santa Barbara wine country. The Central Coast beckons us knowing we are destined to enjoy a good time.

Folded Hills  Once we hit Santa Barbara, we know that we have a 45-minute drive to Buellton's exit and the 246, the highway that leads east to Solvang and west to Lompoc. If you crave wine before you reach Buellton, stop in Gaviota at Folded Hills, the winery owned by Andrew and Kim Busch. Just oﬀ the 101 freeway, the winery is known for its Rhone varietals. From their beer empire, they now have a Farmstead that grows various crops, including grapes. If you are

lucky, you can also see the Clydesdale horses, a camel, zebra, and donkey that live in harmony on the property. Wine Picks: Don't miss August White, a blend of Grenache Blanc, Clairette Blanche, and Roussanne. In Reds, I recommend Grant Grenache.

Wine Along the Highway 246  Back on the road for a few minutes, you will soon reach the exit of the 246 and will recognize many of the landmarks you saw in the movie Sideways. The film made Pinot Noir and the area famous. Heading west on the 246, you will pass several of the Sta. Rita Hills AVA vineyards and wineries, including Babcock, Foley, Dierberg, and Melville. Some of my favorites along the 246 are Dierberg and Melville. Both settings are ideal for a picnic, although with COVID, you need to check ahead of time for the specific rules.

Photos (From left): Red wine pour, Courtesy get stencil.com; Folded Hills tasting room with Kim Busch and Tymari; Dierberg Star Lane

Photos (From left): Sta. Rita Hills AVA; Flower  fields in Lompoc; Zoe, a Saluki, in the flower fields of Lompoc

Wine Picks: At Dierberg, I have always enjoyed the unoaked Chardonnay. At Melville, I recommend the Syrah.

Sta. Rita Hills AVA  Most of the wineries in Lompoc are part of the Sta. Rita Hills AVA. It began with a vision that Michael Benedict and Richard Sanford had in the late 60s and early 70s. They planted the first vineyard in 1971, known as Sanford and Benedict, and were the pioneers of the area. By 1997 several of the pioneering winemakers were determined to make the Sta. Rita Hills, an AVA. That occurred in 2001. Today there are over 59 vineyards in the appellation. The region is known for its Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and other cool-climate varieties. The combination of marine-based soil with higher levels of calcium, its east/west orientation, and the diurnal changes due to the cooling influence of the Pacific ocean and fog create ideal growing conditions for cool-climate wines. You enter the Sta. Rita Hills AVA once you are about four miles west of Buellton, and the AVA western boundary is just before you hit the town of Lompoc. The boundary on the north is the south side of the Purisima Hills and on the south the north side of the Santa Rosa Hills.

Lompoc  Lompoc is known for its flower fields, murals, and its budding wine industry. It happens to be the flower seed capital of the world. The city is about 10 to 15 minutes from Surf Beach and Ocean Beach Park for those that want to walk along the beach. Vandenberg Air Force is a 10 to fifteen-minute drive north. If you are in Lompoc on the day of a launch, look to the sky to view the rocket taking oﬀ. The area initially was settled by the Chumash Indians. In 1787 the La Purisima Mission was established. An earthquake in 1812 destroyed the Mission. It was rebuilt in its current location and now

part of the California Park System. B e f o r e C OV I D - 1 9 , y o u could enjoy an evening under the stars at the La Purisima Mission while attending Wine and Fire, the Sta. Rita Hills Wine Alliance's yearly event. It is one of my favorite outdoor wine events.

Lompoc Wine Tasting  I discovered the wine scene in Lompoc while attending yearly dog shows in the area. I would skip a day showing my dog to explore the many wineries or enjoy a Santa Maria styled barbeque. Like Santa Maria, the barbeque is a big part of the local scene. Wineries are scattered all over Lompoc's southern end. Most are located in an industrial park just north of Ocean Avenue near 12th St. Some of the wineries with tasting rooms on the wine trail include Ampelos, a winer y dedicated to biodynamic farming. Sampling their Rosé is a must because a small amount of Riesling enhances the spices in the wine. Sweetzer Cellars, another winery that I highly recommend where almost any of their Chardonnays and Pinots are worth tasting. There are also wineries with tasting rooms close by but not in the industrial park—one of the newest wineries in town is Camins 2 Dreams. At Camins, try the Gruner Veltliner. Liquid Farm has a tasting room in Lompoc, as well as Los Olivos. Liquid Farm produces some of the best Burgundian Chardonnays I have ever tasted. The winery started producing only Chardonnay and Rosé, saying they would never make any Pinot Noir. A couple of years ago, they began creating Pinot Noir. Their Pinot is pretty darn good. If you run into winemaker James Sparks, ask to taste his label. Known as the blue whale, you will find Kitá, KesslerHaak, Transcendence, and Zotovich. Although I

Photos (From left): Transcendence Winery; Dan Kessler of Kessler-Haak Wines; Kessler-Haak tasting room

mention Transcendence here, my last road trip to Lompoc took me to Kessler-Haak and Kitá.

Transcendence  I have known Transcendence winemaker/owner Joey Gummere for years, and he focuses on making Chardonnay, Rosé, Pinot Noir, and Syrah. My favorite story with Joey is when I sampled the Chardonnay that goes to Japan and the same Chardonnay he produces for the US. What a diﬀerence in acidity on the Chardonnays. The version sold in Japan was oﬀ the charts with acidity. The Japanese market desires wines with very high acidity.

Kessler-Haak  Kessler-Haak Winemaker/owner Dan Kessler came from the tech industry. He started creating his wine using a box kit at home. From this elementary winemaking process, Dan won a gold medal. Dan later planted 200 plus grapevines in his backyard. As Dan's interest in wine increased, he obtained a Winemaker's Certificate from the UC Davis Distance Learning Program. All this lead to a life-changing move to Lompoc, where he purchased 40 acres along Highway 246 in 2004. I have known Dan since 2011 and seen the growth in his wines. In 2012 Dan started to make sparkling wine and the brut with its opalesque color to this day is my favorite. Dan has challenged himself by going beyond the traditional wine of the area to experiment with

Cabernet Franc, Nebbiolo, and Cabernet Sauvignon. My favorites at visiting his tasting room recently were the 2016 Pinot Noir Ohana Estate. Ohana means family in Hawaiian, which makes sense why this is Kessler-Haak's flagship wine. Its composition utilizes all the clones on his estate. Therefore it is a family of clones on a family estate. I also liked the 2014 Pinot Noir Intuition and the 2015 Syrah.

Kitá  The Chuma sh tribe owns this winer y. Their winemaker Tara Gomez, a member of the Chumash tribe, overcame many challenges as both a woman winemaker and the first Native American winemaker. She represents the first Native American winery recognized in the United States. Many of Tara's philosophies on balance are carried over to her 2nd winery Camins 2 Dreams. Both Tara's philosophy and that of the Chumash is the pursuit of balance in the winemaking process. It expresses the place, purity of the varietal, and grape. Ultimately the balance between the earth, terroir, vine, nature, and weather conditions or how we, the consumer, interprets the wine all comes into play. It is the relationship between all components of wine blended together. Balance also means giving back to the land t h r o u g h sustainable

Photos (From left)): Kita wines; The wines of Kita; Tara Gomez and the Camp 4 Vineyard

practices. All these parts signify Kitá Wines' meaning of balance. The vineyard has a balancing spiritual quality for the Chumash. The Chumash tribe, therefore, becomes the shepherd of the vineyard. That vineyard is the Camp 4 Vineyard at the entrance to Happy Canyon AVA. Kitá means "Our Valley Oak." The oak tree represents the tree of the Santa Ynez Valley, and like the tree, the grape signifies the fruit of the area. Therefore the wines of Kitá symbolize the essence of the Santa Ynez Valley. At Kitá I recommend trying the 2018 T’AYA a blend of Marsanne, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc, 2018 Sauvignon Blanc, 2017 Grenache and the 2017 Syrah.

Wine Tasting in the Vicinity  Not only are their great wineries in Lompoc, but it is a 30-minute ride along the backroads to Los Alamos where you can enjoy wines, dine at Pico, or get a sandwich at Bob's Well Bread. Buellton is 20 minutes from Lompoc, and it is worth checking out Alma Rosa's tasting room or dining at Industrial Eats, which is where we dined on our last visit. About 30 minutes away, Solvang oﬀers a cute Danish atmosphere with wonderful pastry shops, gift shops, and restaurants. Some of my favorite wine tasting rooms are Wandering Dog Wine Bar, Crawford Family Wines, where you must try their Albarino, Lucas and Lewellen, and Buttonwood. Los Olivos, a quaint town approximately 40 minutes away from Lompoc, oﬀers many wine tasting rooms. My favorites are Tercero, Liquid Farm, and Andrew Murray. Whether you visit Lompoc, Los Alamos, Buellton, Solvang, or Los Olivos, you will certainly enjoy a wonderful day of wine tasting. For me, Lompoc holds a special place in my heart because it is where I learned so much about the nuances of wine and wine writing.

Photos (From top): The town of Solvang; La Parisima Mission; Los Olivos; Melville Winery

The ultimate Road Trip(s)—a photo essay in B&W By Christine Cutler

can’t count how many times I’ve driven crossAfter spending the holidays there last year, we drove country—usually east-west (or vice versa) but back to Las Vegas to get ready for the move. Never also north-south (and viceones to make it easy, though, we versa). Sometimes I’ve driven drove from St. Petersburg to London, alone (except for my child and my ultimate (adjective)  Ohio, to Las Vegas—about 3500 dog), and other times I’ve been in miles in total—in five days. “We’re /əl•tə•mət/  the passenger seat as my husband never doing that, again,” we said as final; last mans the wheel. Some of the we limped out of the car. journeys have been one-way and due Famous last words, as they say. In to moves, but over the last 11 years, October, we loaded up a Penske truck and headed we’ve headed Las Vegas to Virginia or, most recently, from the desert to the bay for the last time. The Florida to visit our son and daughter-in-law. Driving ultimate road trip. (Or so we think.) 2400+ miles one way got old fast, and last year, we decided to move from closer to them and bought a (Please note: Most of these photos I took from the condo in Florida . window of our car as we flew by during a few of our final cross-country trips.

Kaibab National Forest, Arizona

Las Vegas, Nevada

Concho, Arizona

WInslow, Arizona

Holbrook, Arizona

St. Louis, Missouri

London, Ohio

Cincinnati, Ohio

Caryville, Tennessee

New Mexico/Arizona State Line

Tucumcari, New Mexico

Groom, Texas

Little Rock, Arkansas

Adrian, Texas

Wildorado, Texas

Post, Texas 100

St. Petersburg, Florida

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