IRELAND’S ONLY SALON STYLIST MAGAZINE
ISSUE 10 | Volume 3 Summer €9.50
magic ThREE’S A chARM fOR ROSSA DANAGhER
kevin.murphy’s top stylist
World leading ethical hair extensions
To enquire about joining the elite and becoming a Great Lengths certiďŹ ed stylist visit GREATLENGTHSHAIR.CO.UK/BECOME-A-CERTIFIED-STYLIST
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To e n q u i r e a b o u t sto ck i n g El e v en A us t ra li a i n y o ur S a lo n c a ll t he f ri end ly t ea m a t N a ti o n a l B e a u ty D i str i b u ti o n o n ( 021) 201 9681 o r ema i l i nf o @ na t i o na lb ea ut y .i e w w w .na t i o na lb ea ut y .i e
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Contents
9 Shop talk
New launches and top trends
13 Meet the winners The results of this year’s IHF Championships are in
17 Instagram insider David Cashman on the power of the post
18 Get the look Moyo’s Phellipe lutterbeck translates the trends
20 Winner’s circle The winner of the Kevin.Murphy editorial competition, revealed
24 The magic number Rossa Danagher has hit upon a winning formula
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30 Gold standard Meet the Kao Salon Division brands
33 Miracle man
37 In the chair Andrea Redmond talks local heroes
38 Hide and seek Unveiling Valerie Patterson’s new salon, Mask Hair
Hillary O’Reilly’s all-inclusive approach
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45 PR power It’s all in the planning
48 The final cut Meet the four-time Australian Hairdresser of the Year
COVER PHOTOGRAPH: HAZEl COONAGH
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43 Lightbulb moment
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Up close with the legendary Keith Harris
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To stock Framar in your salon please contact the National Beauty Team info@nationalbeauty.ie | www.nationalbeauty.ie | 021 -234 0142
Editor’s Letter
Summer is kicking up a gear and we have a jam-packed issue for you.
IRELAND’S ONLY SALON STYLIST MAGAZINE
ISSUE 10 | C\YbZR @bZZR_ â‚Ź& "
magic ThREE’S A chARM fOR ROSSA DANAGhER
kevin.murphy’s top stylist
EDITOR Tara Corristine
Kieran Walsh Will McCreevey aRT DIREcTOR
Susan Conley cONTRIbuTORS
Ellen Gunning
@fringemagazine.ie
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PubLISHERS
Does anyone else feel like their feet haven’t touched the ground this year? Since our last issue, we’ve been regaled by icons of the industry, discovered hot new brands and met the Irish owners who are making it work. Keith Harris is a name most in the industry know and it was standing room only when he presented his new show, No Limits, at the Wella Academy. His hilarious stories tending to supermodels, screen queens and pop legends had the room in uproar. Turn to page 33 to read more. Equally exciting was our search for a stylist and Kevin.Murphy Session Master Massimo Morello deemed Siadbh Duffy and her team at GROW UnLTD in Waterford to be the winner. Turn to page 20 to see her shoot. A well-known name from her Cowboys and Angels days, Valerie Patterson has a new business under her belt. Mask Hair is a colourful space filled with character and quirks. See inside on page 38. Newness was a running thread through this issue and on page 18 we bring you a preview of Moyo’s Phellipe Lutterbeck’s take on the season’s trends, while on page 30, Kao Salon Division shares some more information about their roster of hit brands, and give an insight into their Global Zoom and Hub Network events. Honest and unflinching: two words that sum up our cover star, Rossa Danagher. The owner of Rossano’s salons is upfront about staying sharp, taking an individual approach to staff and offering the advice he wished he’d been given. Read our interview on page 24. Plus there’s a how-to to PR, new product launches and lots more. Have a smashing summer,
@fringemag_ie @fringemagazine_ie
www.fringemagazine.ie
For advertising queries, please email Tara@fringehq.com or call 021 201 9681
Many thanks to The Grayson for hosting our cover shoot.
ps
thegrayson.ie; @thegraysondublin Check us out on social media for news, reviews and competitions. Got a question, suggestion or would like to see a topic covered? Drop me a line at Tara@FringeHQ.com
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Shop Talk JusT IN TImE FoR summER, Redken’s Frizz Dismiss range returns with two new climate protection oils: Anti-Static Oil Mist (�28) for wet or dry hair as a touch up spray to smooth static and fly-aways, and Instant Deflate Oil-in-Serum (�33.65) to instantly smooth puffiness and unwanted excess volume. The OG Rebel Tame (�33.45) is back too, and this smoothing control cream is upgraded with heat protection up to
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450°F. redken.com DID you kNow...
Going beyond length, more and more clients are turning to hair extensions to combat thinning hair, fill sparse areas, and add volume, colour and depth without causing damage to the hair with chemicals and dyes. With that in mind, GREaT LENGTHs is adopting a tailored, more bespoke approach offering a range of colours, textures and lengths across their ethically sourced, premium human hair extensions. Joscelin McCourt, CEO for Great Lengths UK & Ireland, said: “We continue to receive feedback from our stylists about Great Lengths enabling their clients to feel more positive in themselves, restoring confidence through natural and subtle bespoke enhancements. greatlengthshair.ie
The bob endures according to Zoe Irwin with shorter, sharper chops on the
Top TIp Have your hair masques front and centre this season as the heat and humidity will pay havoc with hair. Hydrate-me.masque from kevin.murphy has vitamin-charged microcapsules that deliver hydration and moisture, leaving hair deeply conditioned from root to tip. Plus, they’re sulphate, paraben and cruelty-free. �32, nationalbeauty.ie
“For 2019, I think we will see a move away from shattered and layered hair towards a blunter, sharper finish. I envisage it being a shift away from the mid length boyfriend bob, which was so popular last season, to something more precise and above the shoulder, roughly halfway between your ears and the nape of the neck. Done correctly, it will do wonders for your bone structure and is often the gateway to an even shorter do. This shift towards blunter and bolder bobs is inspired by the seventies, and thanks to models like Kendall Jenner and Karlie Kloss, the look has already started owning red carpets and salon appointments.”
@kendalljenner
agenda this season.
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that the scalp ages six times faster than the face and 12 times faster than the body? With this in mind, Goldwell has launched kerasilk Revitalize, a rejuvenating range that shields the scalp from oxidative stress like UV rays, pollution, chemical stress and extreme heat and cold that causes dehydration, imbalance, and thinning, weak hair. Keratransform technology (kt3) combines silk for luxurious colour protection and keratin for structural support. The range includes an exfoliating pre-wash and four targeted shampoos. Prices start from �19.95. trinitysalonpartners.ie
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Partner Promotion Turning card payments from a burden to a benefit at KOPPER HAIR SAlON. BOIPA case study: Kopper Hair Salon
Kopper Hair Salon is one of Cork’s leading hair and beauty destinations, led by award-winning stylist Sabrina Hill. Since Hill took the reins as Managing Director in 2005, the salon has grown from three members to twenty, running alongside Hill’s successful online business, New Hair Revolution. The salon currently takes about 80-85% of customer payments by card – a vast increase on the 50:50 split between cash and card payments Hill was dealing with ten years ago. As the volume of card payments at Kopper Hair Salon increased, Hill and her team grew increasingly frustrated with the inefficient service and high price of their previous card payment provider. We spoke to her about how switching to BOI Payment Acceptance has helped to turn the salon’s card payments from a burden into a business benefit. Background
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When Kopper Hair Salon moved to its Cork premises in 2017, most of its payments were coming through by card, but the company’s payment provider was causing issues for Hill. “We were with another payment provider, the previous owner had been dealing with. The charges were extortionate, but I had never thought of moving. I thought everyone paid the same high rates,” she says. It took as much as three days for Kopper Hair Salon’s former provider to process payments, sometimes even longer during public holidays in the United States, where the provider was based. “The money from customer payments wasn’t coming through promptly. That became more and more of a problem as the number of card payments increased.” Customer service, quality card readers and prompt payment processing
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The main drivers for switching to BOI Payment Acceptance were the needs for: >> Faster, more affordable payment processing; >> A reliable card payment service for customers; >> Knowledgeable, local customer service. “The way people make payments is changing, and in the last two or three years, card has made
up 80-85% of our payments. We had to look at sourcing a service that suited us as a business and could deliver cost savings,” says Hill. “Our local manager at Bank of Ireland gave us the option of a better deal by introducing us to BOI Payment Acceptance.” Fast, affordable payments
Kopper Hair Salon’s primary reason for switching to BOIPA was the need for faster funds settlement, at a more reasonable rate than the salon’s previous provider could offer. According to Hill, the salon instantly saw an improvement in its cashflow thanks to BOIPA’s prompt settlement. “The money is in our account next day,” she says. “That is huge when you’re dealing with a business with a high volume of money passing through it.” Quick, painless payments are good for the customer experience, too. Hill explains that offering reliable card payments is important, as customers may not know exactly what they will buy or how much it will cost, and clients may face the hassle of leaving the salon to get more cash. “Card makes it a lot easier, particularly when the customer wants to buy an extra treatment or product.” Superior customer service
For Hill, BOIPA’s customer service has been a revelation. Kopper Hair Salon had its first interaction with BOIPA’s support team during onboarding, when the salon experienced an issue with the wireless connectivity of its card readers. “The engineer came out and solved the problem immediately,” says Hill. She reveals it has been far easier to communicate with BOIPA than with the salon’s previous card payment provider. Conclusion
Switching to BOI Payment Acceptance helped Kopper Hair Salon turn card payments from an operational burden into a business benefit. The salon now gets its payments processed at the right time and for the right rate, and customers are pleased with the reliable service offered by BOIPA’s card readers. “When there’s an issue and you call customer service, you really are dealing with someone who understands. BOI Payment Acceptance have always been there.” ✂
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i5IF XBZ QFPQMF NBLF QBZNFOUT JT DIBOHJOH BOE JO UIF MBTU UXP PS UISFF ZFBST DBSE IBT NBEF VQ PG PVS QBZNFOUT 8F IBE UP MPPL BU TPVSDJOH B TFSWJDF UIBU TVJUFE VT BT B CVTJOFTT BOE DPVME EFMJWFS DPTU TBWJOHT w
1800 806 BOIPA.com 4BMPO 1BZNFOU BDDFQUBODF JT QSPWJEFE CZ &70 1BZNFOUT *OUFSOBUJPOBM (NC) USBEJOH BT #0* 1BZNFOU "DDFQUBODF 6OEFSXSJUJOH DSJUFSJB 5FSN BOE $POEJUJPOT BQQMZ &70 1BZNFOUT *OUFSOBUJPOBM (NC) USBEJOH BT #0* 1BZNFOU "DDFQUBODF JT MJDFOTFE CZ UIF 'FEFSBM 'JOBODJBM 4VQFSWJTPSZ "VUIPSJUZ #B'JO #VOEFTBOTUBMU GVS 'JOBO[EJFOTUMFJTUVOHTBVGTJDIU JO (FSNBOZ BOE JT SFHVMBUFE CZ UIF $FOUSBM #BOL PG *SFMBOE GPS DPOEVDU PG CVTJOFTT SVMFT &70 1BZNFOUT *OUFSOBUJPOBM (NC) USBEJOH BT #0* 1BZNFOU 37 "DDFQUBODF JT OPU B NFNCFS PG UIF #BOL PG *SFMBOE (SPVQ #0* 1BZNFOU "DDFQUBODF IBT FOUFSFE JOUP B NBSLFUJOH BMMJBODF XJUI UIF #BOL PG *SFMBOE #0* BOE UIF 5SFF PG -JGF MPHP BSF USBEFNBSLT PG 5IF (PWFSOPS BOE DPNQBOZ PG #BOL PG *SFMBOE BOE BSF CFJOH VTFE VOEFS MJDFOTF CZ &70 1BZNFOUT *OUFSOBUJPOBM (NC) USBEJOH BT #0* 1BZNFOU "DDFQUBODF
Partner Promotion
IHF Hairdresser of the Year, Samantha Byrne, Vanilla Hair Design, Carlow
IHF CHampIoNSHIpS 2019
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he ihf championships 2019 saw over 250 entries demonstrating the creativity, artistry and craft that we have come to expect from the Irish hair industry. Audience members were treated to a fantastic day with sixteen categories on the competition floor, and had the opportunity to learn from awardwinning artists such as David Murray, Joanne O’Neill and John Keegan at the IHF Education Pod. The catwalk show was presented by Ciaran Dowd under the direction of Sarah Mason. Huge congratulations to this year’s IHF Hairdresser of the Year, Samantha Byrne of Vanilla Hair Design in Carlow. The IHF Barber/Men’s Hairdresser of the Year was Barry Kieran, Signature Hair, Dundalk, Co Louth; IHF Trainee Hairdresser and Junior Team Ireland member was Jodie Quinn, House of Colour, Dublin. ✂
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Instastyle
There is power in the posting, says session and salon stylist, DavID CashmaN.
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nstagram is a great way to showcase my work. I use the insta story feature more, to upload what I’m up to day-to-day. I started a hashtag #hairbycash while doing hair a few seasons back for Brown Thomas. The models then started using it when mentioning who did their hair, and it grew from there. There seems to be this pressure to have loads of followers but I only put something online if it feels right. I never put up something because someone has asked me to. I have unfollowed people who, for whatever reason, don’t make me feel good. I really believe there is power in this. I follow Guido Palau (@guidopalau) for inspiration and wonderment, everytime I see his work I’m inspired; Sam McKnight (@sammcknight1) for backstage insights on his looks for the likes of Chanel and Fendi; Jen Atkin (@jenatkinhair) has managed to merge her work life and non-work life seamlessly online while also asking her followers what they want from her new product range, very inspiring! Jenny Cho (@jennychohair) does some beautiful hair for LA’s rich and famous. For red carpet or press events, her hair is always simple yet elegant. ✂ @cashmandjmc
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TEAM: Moyo Hair and Beauty Creative Director: Phellipe Lutterbeck Colorist Director: Donato Stano Hair Assistant: Thiago Bueno Makeup Artist: Eva Ban Photography: Dan Butler and Aitana Silvana
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Get The Look
PhEllIPE luttERbEck,
Creative Director at Moyo Hair and Beauty, shares the inspiration behind the awardwinning salon’s spring shoot.
London Fashion Week SS19. It has a retro-meetsmodern fashion vibe, and the colours play on the juxtaposition of warm and cool tones to reflect spring moving into summer. We wanted the models’ own identity to come through, too. We created a graduated bob for Shauna to get texture and movement, keeping the cut natural and without marks. The colour was inspired by the Pantone Colour of the Year, Living Coral, using Aveda colour,
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“TRIX was inspired by my work on shows at
using different shades and adding a strong yellow to break it up. For King, we decided to work with rose purple in the hair and used the razor all over to get a very natural undone haircut.” ✂ moyo.ie
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Stylist Spotlight
blonde
P H O T O G R A P H S B Y H AY l E Y S T u A R T
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he Kevin.Murphy Ireland Editorial Stylist competition challenged Kevin.Murphy salons to create an editorial look that was brandinspired and captured the spring ‘19 trends. Kevin.Murphy Session Master, Massimo Morello along with top industry talent judged Siadbh Duffy and her team at GROW UnLTD in Waterford to be the winning entry. She shares the inspiration behind her looks.
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Stylist Spotlight Tell me about your salon and team. I had a very
Why does the Kevin.Murphy brand fit so well with your salon ethos? I feel it is ideal
enter the Kevin.Murphy competition? As soon as
I heard about the editorial stylist competition I began planning our shoot with the team immediately. I thought the prize was amazing along with the winning image being chosen by Massimo Morello Kevin.Murphy Session Master with other industry talent. Although we hadn’t had experience with editorial work before, we had a theme picked within a day and a meeting with the photographer within a week! What did you want your images to portray?
The theme we chose was ‘Mother Earth’. I wanted my models to represent lightworkers and guardians of the earth, representing a new generation whose mission is to eradicate global warming, plastic waste, pollution and suffering. Instead they would radiate unconditional love, abundance, new growth and life. What do you hope to achieve from winning the competition? I feel so honoured to have won this competition, I hope to gain creative experience from having our images published in Fringe magazine and I hope information about our heart-centred salon reaches the people who need it. As the Kevin Murphy brand grows and sets an example for the hair and beauty industry, we hope to follow. It has been a goal of mine since the start of this year to also be on the front cover of Fringe magazine one day, and now I’m a step closer. ✂ MUA: Laura Delaney
for our salon as Kevin.Murphy is an ethical brand that makes the right choices in regards to the environment with the ingredients in their products, all of which benefit the customer and our planet. When I decided to open my own business, I wanted to be a business for the future and make sure our carbon footprint was as small as it could be, I wanted my clients to have products of the highest quality that were healthy and that worked. These were defining factors for me and to have found such an amazing brand that was aligned with my goals makes me feel grateful everyday. For example, from the end of
Why did you want to
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clear vision when I opened Grow that I wanted my personal values reflected in the business. We have no magazines in our space, instead we have a range of books that feed the mind and music that enriches the soul. We clear the energy in our space consistently and you will find crystals and dreamcatchers around the salon. We are eco-friendly, vegan-friendly, crueltyfree and we create our own cleaning products using essential oils. I have an amazing team around me: Lyanne has been with me over a year and is an artist, dedicated to pushing herself and fine tuning her skills constantly. Megan has been with me nearly three years and I have watched her grow with pride. She is hugely creative and she is definitely one to watch. Katelyn has a natural creative talent and I’m excited to see what her future has in store. Sylvia is also part of the team working on this editorial shoot. Having worked together many times she is always close to my heart. Sylvia always amazes me with her creative talent and her dedication to growth in all aspects of her life.
this year, all of the retail line will be made from recycled ocean waste plastic, something I hope other brands will do also. Kevin Murphy’s colour line also does not test on animals. I’m so proud to work with and introduce clients to this brand. I believe that we are the choices we make in our everyday lives.
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ROSSA DANAGHER of Rossano’s
takes a bespoke approach to his staff and with three thriving salons under his belt, it’s a successful strategy.
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P H O T O G R A P H S
B Y
H A Z E L
C O O N A G H
Cover Star
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five years in and i was exhausted. i had no life.
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Cover Star Do you find the Irish hair industry to be
How did you learn to run a successful
closed off?
business?
For a country that’s so small, and we all know each other, getting information about how you grow or take your salon or career to the next level, can be quite difficult. Especially around competitions. It was a huge learning curve when I started competing, how green I actually was. It was trial and error for the first few years, upskilling and researching, realising what we were up against. The first year we were way off the mark. We tend not to be honest sometimes, we tend not to share what we’ve learned. Thankfully over the years I have made very good friends that I can lift a phone to and ask a question. I’ve done courses where you realise everyone has the same problems, regardless of size. I think it’s only right that we help each other. It’s competitive, naturally, but you can learn from people’s mistakes and improve. I am on the end of the phone. I am meeting someone this afternoon to help her with her wage structure. Last week, I was asked to call someone who was struggling with staff, and I did and she was delighted. I’ve been away with Redken and you learn a lot, on a bar stool sometimes or in a restaurant chatting casually and I love that side of things. Unfortunately it’s not structured and I think what our industry needs is a helpline. The Irish Hairdressing Council have touched on this. I would have loved that aged 25. I was 17 when I went into Peter Mark and they gave me a really good grounding in customer service, I have the greatest respect for them. What I didn’t get is probably management training. I learned nothing about business: I didn’t know how much a tube of colour cost, I didn’t know the wage percentage of the salon. This is information I tell my managers. We’re very creative and we get caught up in making people look and feel good. We think like an artist, that everything is going to be alright, and our head is in the sand. Really, you have to sit back and ask, what is this going to cost me? There are a lot of people who shouldn’t open up, they should be in a good environment where they are well looked after, rather than being an entrepreneur themselves.
Hunger. When I was 25, hunger was my main driver, perhaps in the wrong sense. It was money - I wanted a better lifestyle, I wanted nice things. But it wasn’t feeding me. Five years in and I was exhausted. I was a busy fool, I had no life. I decided to do a course with Alan Austin Smith and he restored my passion. We’re doing another course with him, The Fantastic Hairdresser, a business masters course, for fear I was getting into that mould again of just going through the motions and making mistakes. I’m creative and I‘m lucky that I’m savvy enough in business as well. I’m also lucky that my wife is very much involved in the business side. Over the years my success is down to surrounding myself with good people, like-minded people who want to be on your forward-thinking path. It’s a journey. Sustainability and wage increases are some of the obstacles facing the industry, how are you dealing with that?
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We’ve banned plastic bottles for staff - I was in the staff room and looked around at all the bottles we drink. We try to watch our waste, we do our recycling but we need more forward thinking. I think it should be more government-led. Our government is very dictatorial, we’re told what to do and they made huge wage changes, they banned traineeships, we now have to pay them by age. That’s detrimental to a wage percentage in any salon. The VAT increase is a huge effect on the business. No business can absorb that, you have to put up your prices. And the cost of product goes up every February, we can’t absorb that either. We build a relationship with clients and I think we feel guilty about charging for our services. I can’t get away with Dublin prices in Donegal but I still pay the same price for colour. Where we are geographically it’s very tough. We don’t have the luxury of people walking past our door, especially in rural towns like Ballyshannon that are struggling. I had to use our location as an advantage. We have to be a destination salon, people have to get into their car and want to come
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to Rossano’s. We attract a lot of people from the north: Leitrim, Sligo, Enniskillen, Omagh, we’ve a very good catchment. But we work extremely hard at that. Everybody does good hair, what we do is amazing hair and amazing service. How do you retain and motivate staff?
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I have a team that is very like minded, that I brought on my journey and they are rewarded, financially they are well looked after, they are educated. We are a work family, we spend more time with our work colleagues than we do with our own family. You build relationships and you look after people. That’s a struggle now as I expand into the third salon as I don’t know all my team the way I used to: how their mum is or whether there is stuff happening at home. There’s no harm as an employer to know that, you can approach someone differently. You have to treat every staff member as an individual. We’re not a factory, we are all artists and I say that to my management team. What works for one will not work for the other. We do regular one-to-ones with our team where we plan the year: their education, what will motivate them, and that’s bespoke to each individual, whether you’re 10 years with us or just in the door. You cannot say, ‘you can never have a Saturday off.’ We are all time poor. Money doesn’t motivate me. My craft and doing good work, and time off to be with my family motivates me. Giving someone an extra half-day is better than giving them €50, personalising their work. We’re an industry full of women and young mums, some of our guys start at 9.30am as they are dropping kids to school. I don’t dock that, I get that back, I don’t have to ask them to stay on. It’s balance, it’s knowing your team and what works for them. What is your management style?
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I’m good at delegating, if we’re doing a show, they all laugh and say, ‘we’re all doing this now!’ We did a presentation in the Royal Albert Hall a few years ago, the largest thing we have undertaken and I just broke it all down, gave everyone a job and it came together. I manage people to the standard that I want them to be at. I can’t do it alone, and I don’t want to do it
on my own. I like to be surrounded by people, if there’s a perk or a trip I stress about who I’m not bringing, I want to bring everyone. Three of our younger team went to Tracey Cunningham in London recently and their first job when they came back was to do an education class. They had to filter down everything they learned. There’s no point me going to everything, or my managers going to everything. You need to filter it down to the younger ones. There are future managers there. I believe you have A, B and C types in the workforce: A is your huge performer that will always be at the top of the game; B is your 9-5 worker: Some people want to come in and do their work and go home and that’s perfect, too. Every army needs soldiers. The C type doesn’t really care. You need to pull all the people out of C and put them into B or A. You don’t want Cs in your shop, I certainly don’t. What do you think of the new talent coming through?
Information is so free and the generation coming up behind us are into Instagram and Facebook and online tutorials - they know everything instantly. What I fear is they think they can do everything quickly. When something doesn’t work out for them on a day-to-day basis, they don’t know how to deal with rejection. You’re going to get someone who isn’t nice or says, ‘that wasn’t what I wanted,’ and I’ve noticed that. Someone can be brilliant on social media but not brilliant on the floor in a 9-5 job. I hope that the penny drops that it is still a graft, it’s labour intensive, it’s hard work. Not everything is creative,don’t forget about the bread and butter clients. You have to have pride in your Marys and your Anns. That’s what pays the wages. What’s next for Rossano’s?
My future plans are to create more brand awareness of where we are, what we’re about, and to nurture my whole team. They have to believe in the Rossano brand. I plan to work smarter, not harder and keep surrounding myself with good people. ✂ rossanos.ie
Cover Star
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i plan to work smarter and keep myself with good people
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operates its colour business. Designed to enable quick and highly accurate measuring, the system can dramatically reduce your application costs and wastage. With air-tight closing after each usage, oxidation is prevented, leading to a longer shelf life than traditional tubes.
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For 70 years, Goldwell has been collaborating with hairdressers to kao saloN dIvIsIoN help them achieve their creative brings its roster of stellar and business ambitions. A brand brands to Ireland that continually innovates, Goldwell delivers a holistic colour system with boundless possibilities, from highperformance permanent colour to gentle tonings. @pure pigments >> colour goes hi-definition Because shiny, healthy hair is the best advertising Created using HD3 Dye Technology developed in your clients can carry out of your salon. collaboration with Fujifilm, @Pure Pigments are high definition direct-dye additives that deliver colour in a can >> cutting colour costs long-lasting multi-dimensional colour that shines. The can system is a revolution in how a salon Seven concentrated colours offer unlimited colour formulations, allowing you to fully demonstrate your creative vision.
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ThE pRomIsE oF pERFoRmaNcE Pushing the boundaries of performance is at the heart of every Oribe formulation and innovation. This luxury haircare line is tested extensively backstage at fashion weeks and on set to ensure that it outperforms everything else. The ultra-high-tech products are made without parabens and sodium chloride, are gluten-free, cruelty-free, colour and keratin treatment-safe and provide UV protection for hair.
Elumenate >> Brilliant colour brought to life
Elumen is an innovative colour that works with direct-acting colour pigments without oxidation and ammonia. It has an exceptionally effective magnet effect: Elumen pigments are drawn deep inside the hair where they are anchored securely. It also offers gentle repairing, by filling and improving the hair structure and reflecting light to give a brilliant shine.
Partner Promotion cREaTING, commUNIcaTING, coNNEcTING KMS uses the visual language of style to collaborate and communicate with its community, drawing inspiration from the catwalks, urban fashion districts and the streets. Its intuitive haircare model — START. STYLE. FINISH — uses innovative formulas to prime, craft and perfect the hair, delivering looks with impact and staying power.
Roy KENNEdy of blacK ambER SaloN GRoUp reveals
why they moved to Kao Salon Division How did you find the switch?
What requirements did you have when you started looking for a new colour house?
What stands out for you when it comes to the Kao Salon division product offering?
We love the look and feel of the products, particularly Topchic – the colour-in-a-can option – which looks amazing and has practically no wastage. We also love that the product offering is extensive and easy to use. ✂
It is essential to find a good fit for your brand and a company that is easy to deal with. From education to finance, there was a dedicated team available to us on a first-name basis, which made it much more personal. After the first couple of hours working with Goldwell, we knew they were the right fit.
THE HUb NETWoRK Kao Salon Division’s exclusive overseas event for salon business networking club members, the HUB Network draws on expert speakers to inform salon owners, help them to motivate their teams and grow their business. According to Mark Giannandrea, Vice President Salon Commercial, EMEA, “We are passionate about adding value to our salon businesses. The HUB Network events work to inspire and interest our salons and help them to accomplish their business goals.” Last year’s event took place in the stunning surrounds of Dubrovnik where guests enjoyed two days of expertise and insights from Jo Fairley, co-founder of Green & Blacks chocolate, best-selling author Joe Simpson, and digital marketing guru Eimear McManus. “The HUB provides a unique way to catch up with Goldwell business colleagues and savvy salon owners. It’s a chance to critique ideas and personal ventures and also get the first insight into new products added to the Goldwell portfolio,” reveals attendee Lisa Whiteman, Whiteman Soho salon. The 2019 event will take place at the five star Verdura Resort in Sicily. Ready to make the move? To join the KAO family or find out more, contact Trinity Salon Partners: Terry McGovern, 089 616 7665; Mark Cullen, 087 709 4310; Ciaran McMahon, 087 398 4745. trinitysalonpartners.ie
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We found the switch fairly flawless. We had a lot of support whilst changing and were supplied with technicians from the UK that were used to converting groups of our size. The team clicked instantly with the educators.
Global Zoom Extraordinary shows, exciting competition and inspiring artist sessions are on the agenda at Global Zoom, a multi-day event that sees the culmination of the Color Zoom competition. Toronto hosted the 2018 event and 3,000 hair creatives gathered for Academy and Artists Sessions with champion stylists, international artists and global ambassadors. The 2019 Color Zoom Collection, REMIX, was revealed at the Gala show, which also saw the crowning of the three global winners. Interested in being a part of this exciting event? Take the Color Zoom Challenge and compete to represent Ireland as the gold winner.
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Innovator
It was standing room only when Keith harris presented his No Limits show at the Wella Studio recently. The three-time British Avant Garde Hairdresser of the Year, British Session Hairdresser of the Year and member of the British hairdressing Hall of Fame, back after a prolonged illness, regaled the audience with on-set anecdotes and celebrity encounters.
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talent
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I’ve had the last rItes twIce. I was In a coma for fIve or sIx months. my surgeon In Italy calls me lazarus.
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“If It wasn’t for trevor sorbIe, I
Innovator “when I dId tom Jones’ haIr my gran was the proudest woman In wales.”
wouldn’t have got to where I dId.”
Fabulous. I worked with Jennifer and Dawn for 13 years. Marie Claire gave Jennifer editorship of the magazine. They flew Tyra Banks in. She was in the chair, fresh as a daisy. I asked her what she wanted and she said Farrah Fawcett. Catherine Zeta Jones is the beautiful woman I’ve ever seen and a lovely person. I showed her big hair and she said, “I’ll have that.” Robert Lobetta, his hands are like Leonardo da Vinci’s, his imagination is incredible. He invented the weave. I’ve worked with him many times, he’s a total genius. His British Avant Garde Award is a doorstop in the kitchen. Lord Patrick Lichfield flew me to Ibiza to put ten heated rollers in Linda Evangelista’s hair. I got paid a fortune. Elle arranged for me to stay in Mick Jagger’s house. Heated rollers are the most under-rated tool in a salon. They’re rustic. Every salon’s got them in a drawer. ✂
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I
’ve spent a year working and shooting pictures with four teams in different countries. I tried to create a new flavour, my version of what’s out there. I started at 15. I was working in Park Lane in Mayfair. Vidal Sassoon did the first staff meeting I ever went to. I was shampooing Goldie Hawn when I was sixteen, Natalie Wood was wandering around the salon. The last time I spoke to him, Vidal said, “What has happened to the craft, where is the art of hairdressing?” Farrah Fawcett was a client of mine. I used to go to her apartment on Wilshire Boulevard: five foot nothing, six stone. A lovely girl, so eccentric. I used to sit in the front room and stare at the Andy Warhol painting of her and think, ‘If I can just get that out of here…’ I did all the publicity stills for Absolutely
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To stock Invisibobble in your salon please contact the National Beauty Team info@nationalbeauty.ie | www.nationalbeauty.ie | 021 234 0142
In The Chair ANdREA REdMoNd of the Asylum Barbershop Cork looks to local heroes. Creative leanings I loved art and construction in school because I loved creating and working visually, but I wasn’t interested in a career in either. I wanted something where I could help people and be creative at the same time so I went into hairdressing. Very soon after, I moved towards men’s hair as I loved the cutting aspect. I began barbering in 2013 and after working in barber shops in Cork, I went on to open Asylum with Leanne Edwards in 2017. Home-grown talent In the
last few years the hair industry in Ireland has come on leaps and bounds. For a small nation we have some extremely talented people in our industry. I look up to people who have made serious progression in their own careers and for the Irish hair industry, like Johnny Baba, John Keegans, Leah Hayden Cassidy and Ryan Cullen.
Maintaining form The main piece of wisdom I
Trendsetters In terms of influence in the industry, in recent years, clients have started to follow barbers on social media and use their cuts as references.
go by is: You’re only as good as your last haircut. It is a well-used saying but it’s so important from a personal level and a business perspective. It’s very important to apply the same effort to each haircut to better yourself and to keep a constant high standard.
Reclaim the art I would like to see changes in education in the industry. The amount of short or 12-week courses is killing the standard of hairdressing and barbering. It’s an art that should be taught properly and to the students own ability. Having the industry be recognised more would be a main goal, and of course having the ridiculous tax rates amended so our industry can continue to grow instead of suffer.
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Swotting up I’m not as strong in creative colour and hair patterns. I’m working on mastering this as I feel it’s becoming a lot more popular. I have done many workshops here and there but the most influential to date was a course with Alan and Reece Beak of Ruger barbers. They are so ahead of the game yet are still very humble.
Future facing My career highlight to date
has been winning Wahl Barber Of The Year in 2016 and being signed as a Wahl Artistic Team member. The support and mentoring Wahl as a company has given me has been incredible. I’m excited to work on growing my shop with my business partner Leanne, we have so many ideas and plans for the future of our business. @the_asylum_barbershop ✂
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eclectic 38
Award-winning Irish hair stylist and former owner of Cowboys and Angels, ValERIE PattERsoN has created a new space on Grafton Street. She shares the inspiration behind the exciting and utterly individual interiors at Mask Hair.
Interiors
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searched for months for a space for my new salon. I wanted a boutique space where I could use all of my new ideas for interiors. I found the perfect place on Grafton St so I began ordering wallpaper, wall tiles, large round porthole mirrors, console tables for sections and stored it all until I was granted Change of Use from office to shop which took almost six months. Then, with just two days to decorate and a limited budget, we had to be creative. The layout and fabulous windows and window seat were great but they gave me the problem of where to put the mirrors with limited wall space. We solved it with the central section that myself and my brother, Ray also a hairstylist who returned from 15 years in Sydney to assist me, designed and made together. I’m a very visual person and as well as hair and make-up, I do interiors and design and create clothes and paint pictures. You could say I’m a busy person. I found the mask in a lighting shop on holiday in Spain and that inspired the name of the salon. For the central section we used an old wooden coffee table along with mirrors that we bought in Rowell Design fixed to a base made by another brother, a builder! We decorated it with mosaic tiles leftover from decorating around the Mask sign. The symbols are something I saw on Instagram by a designer. These I painted freehand, some are female /male symbols and there is the Sagittarius symbol as we are all this sign. The Mask carnival lighting sign was commissioned from the Letter Boutique in Dublin, a fabulous efficient company. I source a lot of pieces from random places like Homesense and I order online. My tiles came from Florida. I didn’t have a theme or style, it’s just my own. I just pieced together the pieces I had collected and tied it all together with the grey paint I had mixed to get my perfect shade. The vibe has been described as Mad Men meets Studio 54. I get ideas from my travels and Instagram. The standout hotels that inspire me are El Fenn in Morocco, Hotel ZaZa in Dallas and The Royal Livingstone in Zambia. ✂ maskhair.ie
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Lightbulb Moment HILLARy O’REILLy has taken an innovative
and inclusive approach to her new salon in Ranelagh. Changing lanes I was doing a fashion design
course and I got a part-time job in a hair salon for some cash at the weekend. I loved it so much I then decided to get a full-time job as a hairdresser. I always had in my head that one day I would have a very different salon, and I did it. Quirks work When hiring I look for someone
who is motivated, positive and passionate about what they do; is a real team player and a bit quirky. I love a bit of fun in a person. Teaching moment I constantly have staff
upskilling and I motivate them with education, sending them to London Fashion Week and on photo shoots. Local love Opening my own salon in Ranelagh
has been a dream come true. People love it and take pictures of it on a daily basis which makes me smile. Working with an amazing team and getting to know the locals and business owners has been fantastic. The people in Ranelagh are really supportive and extremely genuine.
saw a lot of young mums and babies so I came up with the idea of having a mother and baby group on a Tuesday morning. Mums can come together and have their hair done and have some fun with their friends, or make new friends, while being beautified. I wanted the salon to be baba friendly.
Admin woes I struggle with time management. There is just not enough time in the day to get all the business side of things done, the paperwork and PR. Going forward, I will have to make that a priority. Forward planning I want to bring my own
Top tip I believe you should educate your clients
on how to do their hair with the latest styles and products, have a genuine interest in them and create an amazing space for them to totally chill and they will be back a hundred times over. Smart thinking I wouldn’t do anything differently. Any downfalls I have had made me a stronger person and I wouldn’t be where I am now if I hadn’t learned from my mistakes. ✂ Hillary.ie
Day of rest Having a nail bar in the salon creates such a buzz, between the nail art and colours. Our Sunday Gloss is a big success with clients: we just do nails all day Sunday. No noisy hairdryers, just a day off. That’s what Sundays were made for.
hair products to market. I find it fascinating researching hair products and I’d like to create a range that will look super stylish and hopefully expand the business.
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Mums the word When I arrived in Ranelagh I
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Book Extract
Want to create some buzz about your business? PR guru EllEN GuNNING shows you how to signal boost your salon. HAVE A PlAN
of your success will be more realistic too. For example, if five per cent of the local community can name your company, unprompted, in a survey of producers of your particular type of product, then, depending on your budget, it might be reasonable to seek to increase that to 20 per cent by the end of the year. You will also, of course, need to conduct research to establish if you have reached your targets. Now you need to write a PR plan. Things don’t just happen. They happen because you plan them.
It is important to do some research in the early stages. You want more people to know about your business. How many people know about you right now in your locality? Nationally? In your industry? The answer for each will probably be different. You might be very well-known within your own industry, but hardly known at all to a national audience. If you can conduct some research at the start, to establish the true situation, your goals will be more realistic and the evaluation
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oN thE RAdAR
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You need to plan clearly if of the coverage? How many you are doing PR internally. people had an opportunity to Remember that PR is very see it? Have your enquiries time-consuming, so you need increased? Do people speak is the founder and director of to allow time to write press about you differently? Do the Irish Academy of Public releases, organise functions, they recognise the company Relations, the largest private generate photo calls, and so name when you introduce provider of online public on. Planning will also allow yourself? Look at things relations, journalism and event management education in you to identify the stories that like viewership statistics Ireland. The Academy has you want to tell people – you and readership numbers to partner colleges in Greece, might organise a Christmas calculate how many people Nigeria and the Middle East party for senior citizens each had an opportunity to see the and has taught courses to over year (there’s a story and a coverage. Build in a ‘where 5000 students, in six languages. Additionally, Ellen is a broadcast photo opportunity right there), did you hear about us’ box on media journalist, author and you might know that you will your enquiry forms (online and accomplished speaker. be launching a new product offline). Get staff into the habit next March (plan to maximise of noting what people said publicity at that time) and you about the company – ‘a friend might know that you will be speaking at a major suggested I call you/I was searching on Google conference in September. Those three items could the other night and your company came up/I was be more than enough for the first year. just passing and saw your display’. These are all Planning means creating a timeline, but very useful evaluation tools. it also involves allocating a budget to your The evaluation of your first year, which should activities. You may not be paying an hourly be done on a monthly basis, but should also be fee to a PR consultancy, but you will still need done at the end of the year looking back over a budget for photographs (the photographer, twelve months, will help to guide you going models, costumes, etc.), or functions (food and forward. You should be learning about what drink, room hire, MC), or exhibitions (leaflets, does and doesn’t work for your business, what backdrops, competitions, prizes), to make them proved to be too time-consuming (even if it was happen. a good idea), or what you did not get a return on Your plan will also include the media you (the photo call that no one used photos from). are targeting, the stories you need to research, Crucially, you should be learning how to do things the people you need to get quotes from, the smarter and better for the next year. photographers you propose to use. It will identify Think carefully about the positives – and the tools you propose to use – photo calls, press negatives – of attracting media publicity. The conferences, exhibitions, conferences, seminars, media seldom come looking for you (unless third-party endorsement, press receptions, ezines, there is a crisis). You are the one who raises your social media – and how much time and focus you head above the parapet and says, ‘Look at me. will devote to each. You cannot leave anything My business is wonderful. Let’s tell the world to chance. Meticulous planning is one of the about us.’ By doing so, you also give the media hallmarks of good professional PR. permission to look closely at your business and find fault, expose bad practice, and complain that you do not deliver what you promise. It’s a twoEVALUATE THE ACTIVITY way street. Before you go public at all, make sure If properly written, your plan will also include that everything you do will stand up to public how to evaluate your success at the end of the scrutiny. ✂ year. What additional research will you need so that you know you reached your goal? Can you show that you got coverage in your target media Ten Red-Hot Tips to Promote your Business is (and not just in ‘the media’ generally)? Have you available in nationwide, on Amazon.co.uk and any feedback to indicate what people thought mercierpress.ie. RRP €12.99
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ellen gunning
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The Final Cut Meet the four-time Australian Hairdresser of the Year and stylist to Ruby Rose and Elle Macpherson, JoEy SCANdIzzo. Talent trouble A negative would be a lack of attention and interest in apprentices. It’s becoming really hard to get fresh talent at the grass roots stage and keep them. There is a perception that hairdressing isn’t a career that you can do ‘big’ things with or make a lot of money from and that’s a shame because it’s what you make of it. It can be a career that allows you to work with incredible people, stimulate yourself creatively, travel the world and work with amazing brands.
School’s out I wasn’t
liking school, I had too much energy and found it hard to sit still so my teachers told me to get out into the workforce. My Dad suggested hairdressing because I was always really creative and liked being around people. I loved it from day one. I love making women feel and look beautiful. I love the confidence that I can give a woman walking away from my chair with a great haircut or style. Simple solutions When
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I was working on the salon floor and on shoots, I found that the products were getting really confusing, it was difficult to distinguish what product did what. I also loved some things from lots of different ranges but never the whole line. I wanted to simplify things and create a line of high-performance products that were easy for stylists and consumers to understand and didn’t need a degree to use! Being the CoCreative Director of ELEVEN Australia means I’m responsible for research and development of the products as well as the creative vision and direction for the brand. All-rounder I love all parts of my job, from
working in the salon to being on shoots, working with celebrity clients to product development. I get bored easily and go crazy sitting still. I love working on different projects and jam-packing my schedule.
Setting standards
Encouraging an evolution of the industry and shifting perceptions of the hairdressing industry back to be a desirable career path is something I would like to see happen. In order for the industry to move forward and elevate the standard across the board, those at the top need to do the right thing by their staff. My worst mistake? Three words. Tip cap
highlights. High highs Winning Australian Hairdresser of the Year for the first time in 2012 was definitely a highlight. It means a lot and remains incredibly humbling to continue getting the recognition from my peers and the hair industry. Future plans I’ve just opened another salon with
Change is good A positive change is social media.
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Instagram and Facebook have opened so many doors for the industry to grow. It gives everyone more access to industry leaders, celebrity stylists and celebrities themselves making it easier to connect with other people in the industry, grow creatively, build your network and build your brand.
our new business partner Hermiz Daniel, and I became a dad again earlier this year! ELEVEN Australia is also expanding, we are now available in 23 countries including North America, Canada and most recently Germany. Plus, we have some really exciting and innovative product launches in the pipeline, watch this space. ✂ @joeyscandizzo
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