IRELAND’S ONLY SALON STYLIST MAGAZINE
ISSUE 11 | Volume 3 Autumn €9.50
INSIDE! fRINGE AwARD NOMINEES REvEALED
NIALL COLGAN ON RECOvERY AND REDEMpTION
rising
To enquire about joining the elite and becoming a Great Lengths certiďŹ ed stylist visit GREATLENGTHSHAIR.CO.UK/BECOME-A-CERTIFIED-STYLIST
To find out more about stocking Aveda in your salon contact National Beauty Distribution | 021 234 0142 | www.nationalbeauty.ie
Contents 9 Shop talk New launches and top trends
11 National Distribution X Aveda
The holistic hair and skincare brand has a new Irish partner
13 Social scene
13
Awards season is in full flow
17 Instagram insider Samantha Irwin of Pure Belfast is all about upskilling
19 Get the look Wigging out at Moschino’s AW19 show
21 Wonder down under Danny Pato’s award-winning collection
26 Fringe benefits Meet the Fringe Magazine Awards 2019 nominees
28 Back from the brink Niall Colgan shares his journey to sobriety and success FRINGE MAGAZINE
34 Reputation matters Phorest’s guide to getting the right reviews
37 In the chair Kelly Hogan on peer support
38 Mixed materials
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A New York salon mixes hard edges with sublime furnishings
43 Lightbulb moment Joe Hill on knowing your worth
45 Open to persuasion Tips to tighter presentations
48 The final cut
3
Sam James talks about striking out COVER PHOTOGRAPH: HAZEl COONAGH
WWW.SACHAJUAN.IE
@SACHAJUANIRELAND
FOR STOCKISTS ENQUIRIES CONTACT NATIONAL BEAUTY DISTRIBUTION WWW.NATIONALBEAUTY.IE | SALES@NATIONALBEAUTY.IE
Editor’s Letter
IRELAND’S ONLY SALON STYLIST MAGAZINE
ISSUE 11 | C\YbZR .babZ[ â‚Ź& "
INSIDE! fRINGE AwARD NOMINEES REvEALED
NIALL COLGAN ON RECOvERY AND REDEMpTION
rising
EDITOR Tara Corristine
Kieran Walsh Will McCreevey ART DIRECTOR
Susan Conley
It’s certainly an exciting time of year for us as we reveal the shortlisted nominees in our Fringe Magazine Awards. The wealth of talent, creativity, innovation and sheer hard work on display in this industry will make choosing the finalists no easy feat. Thankfully we don’t have to: that rests on your shoulders. Once you have made your selection, visit fringemagazine.ie to vote. Our expert judges will choose the winners and this year we are delighted to welcome the legendary Shay Dempsey to our panel. The closing date for votes is October 20th, 2019, so don’t miss out. But back to the magazine at hand: I fell in love with Tori, Danny Pato’s award-winning collection that merges Asian and avian influences — it has to be seen to be believed so flick to page 21 to experience it yourself. On page 34, Phorest tell us how to get to the top of the Google search, while on page 45 we bring you expert advice to perfect your presentation. But it’s our cover star interview that resonated with me most this issue and I am very grateful to Niall Colgan for sharing his story. Turn to page 28 to read about his journey through abuse and addiction to his rebirth as the leader he always wanted to be. Looking forward to seeing you in the party season,
CONTRIbuTORS
Eric Fitzpatrick
@fringemagazine.ie
FRINGE MAGAZINE
PublISHERS
Many people feel that September is the true start to the year: perhaps it’s the start of a new school term, the change of the season, and all without having to make any nonsensical resolutions!
@fringemag_ie @fringemagazine_ie
With thanks to the stunning Green Hotel for hosting
our cover shoot. ocallaghancollection.com
www.fringemagazine.ie
For advertising queries, please email Tara@fringehq.com or call 021 201 9681
ps
Check us out on social media for news, reviews and competitions. Got a question, suggestion or would like to see a topic covered? Drop me a line at Tara@FringeHQ.com
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4 live stages
60+ hours of education
100s of product launches
JOIN US AT IRELAND’S BIGGEST BEAUTY, HAIR AND SPA SHOW
Beauty and hair professionals can save E20 entry by registering for free at www.professionalbeauty.ie/beautytickets #PBIreland #HJLive #beYOUbePRO @PBHJ_Ireland
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TRADE ONLY
Shop Talk
Peachy K E E N
The Irish winners of the John Paul Mitchell Systems coloR ouTsIDE THE lINEs competition were Sarah Thomas and Taylor Kelleher of Goldirocks in Cork.
>>what inspired your
>>what do you hope to gain from entering the competition? “It’s an
opportunity to play!” says Sarah. “I don’t go in with any expectations but as a business owner, winning any competition gives you great promotion and it’s a chance to showcase our artwork and get creative and inspired.” Taylor sees it as an the opportunity to learn: “There is always something to learn from someone else’s work, like a new technique.”
woNDER woRkERs Plants are under the pump in Eleven australia’s Detangle My Hair leave-In spray: Rosemary leaf extract nourishes, nettle adds shine, and yarrow stem soothes scalp irritation and treats dandruff and oily scalp. �18, nationalbeauty.ie
go for a sleek bob and peach was really trending at the time,” explains Taylor. “I have been a massive fan of Angelo Seminara Imprinting work and X-Presion pixel work for years,” says Sarah, “and after seeing the X-presion guys at Colour World UK this year I decided to give the pixel work a go. Taylor created the perfect base and the purple really popped against the peach tones. These colours aren’t always a day-today colour choice for clients so this was a great creative outlet opportunity.” The peach was created using POPXG Pink, Orange and Diluter. The pixel pattern was
achieved with PopXG purple on dry hair: as it goes on dry and has a smooth consistency, it’s perfect for the precision needed. Hair was prepped and styled with Paul Mitchell Straight works + Skinny Serum.
waxING lyRIcal Perfectly imperfect is the aspiration with kevin. Murphy’s Touchable, a workable and lightweight spray wax finishing hairspray that maintains texture and hold without the stickiness of traditional wax sprays. “In an age where people are experimenting with different hair lengths and cuts, it’s all about texture and reinforcing longevity and separation,” says Kevin. “Regardless of your hair shape or length, Touchable will deliver that coveted texture finish with a flexible hold. It can be used to enhance natural texture on all hair, and introduces a complete perfectly messy separation often desired on short hair, without the residue.” �25, nationalbeauty.ie
FRINGE MAGAZINE
winning look? “I wanted to
DID you kNow? 46 per cent of bookings happen when salons and spas are closed, according to Phorest. It surveyed 1,000 salon and spa customers and found that 36 per cent of millennials (25-34 year olds) want online booking while a service list and accurate pricing is important to 40 per cent of respondents.
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OTHER PROFESSIONAL FEATURES Digital temperature control dial - 27 heat settings from 100°C up to 230°C
Ergonomic design helps to reduce shoulder, elbow and wrist strain +PS[MRK PMKLX VMRK ¾EWLIW [LMPI LIEXMRK YT WXIEH] [LIR WIX On/off push button switch Luxury storage pouch and large detachable heat-resistant mat 3M salon-length cable with tangle-free swivel Sleep mode after 120 minutes Worldwide voltage One year guarantee Includes heat-resistant silicone end cap
Hot Tools®, Evolve™ and An Evolution In Styling™ are trademarks of Helen of Try Limited© 2018. uk.HotTools.com | HotToolsPro | @HotToolsProEU
To stock Hot Tools in your salon contact the National Beauty Team info@nationalbeauty.ie | 021 234 0142 | www.nationalbeauty.ie
Perfect Pairing
National Beauty Distribution is to represent AvEdA in Ireland.
Aveda was founded in 1978 by Horst Rechelbacher who had a vision to bring beauty
About Aveda
professionals the botanical products that would be good for them, their guests, and the Earth and its communities. Aveda’s mission is to care for the world, from the products they make to the ways in which they give back to society. Environmental sustainability guides every decision the organisation makes and it is the first beauty company to use 100% post-consumer recycled PET. Now more than 85 per cent of its skincare and hair styling PET bottles and jars contain 100 per cent post-consumer recycled materials. Waste reduction is paramount: in 2016, the company’s USA facilities recycled or reused 76 per cent of its waste. Aveda continually strives to increase the use of naturally derived ingredients, believing that supporting organic agriculture is the first step towards truly sustainable agriculture: 95 per cent of essential oils used are certified organic. Aveda’s commitment to deliver high performance, botanically-based products that are kinder to the planet goes much deeper than the use of naturally derived ingredients. The company has developed close working partnerships with certain communities and suppliers, such as indigenous people and local communities, and seeks to use them as the primary source for specific ingredients. ✂ nationalbeauty.ie
FRINGE MAGAZINE
ational beauty distribution has announced that it will be representing Aveda haircare and beauty in Ireland. “We are delighted to welcome Aveda into our portfolio of stellar brands alongside Kevin.Murphy, Paul Mitchell, Sachajuan, Eleven Australia, Hot Tools, Luna by Lisa Jordan, Bare by Vogue and a host of others,” says Will McCreevey, Co-founder of National Beauty Distribution. “As a pioneer of holistic beauty and a champion of the environment Aveda perfectly complements our brand offering, and aligns with our own ethical and environmental beliefs and policies. We look forward to sharing Aveda’s exceptional haircare with Ireland’s premium salons.” Vice President of Aveda UK and Ireland Luke Evans comments, “It is with great excitement that Aveda is launching a distribution partnership with National Beauty Distribution in Ireland. As true experts in their field with a tremendous passion for haircare and beauty, they are the perfect partner to offer Aveda a fantastic growth opportunity within the market, bringing our high-performance and naturally derived haircare products to even more consumers across Ireland.”
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To enquire about stocking Eleven Australia in your salon call the National Beauty team on 021 234 0142 or email info@nationalbeauty.ie
@elevenaustraliaireland
@elevenaustralia_ireland
www.elevenaustralia.ie
Goldwell Colour Zoom The UK final winners of the GoLdwELL CoLoR Zoom
are revealed. The Goldwell Color Zoom UK Final took place in the hip surrounds of London’s Printworks last month where over 750 salon professionals gathered to hear the winners announced. Cocktails, street food and networking at the KMS party all preceded a show led by Goldwell UK Guest Artists. The theme of this year’s show was REMIX, a mix of bold colours, sharp contours and strong contrasts, inspired by Pop Art and graphic minimalism, and the gold winners were Courtney Cairns, Headromance in the New Talent Category; Lauren Roma Hanlon, Slunks in the Creative Category and Richard Munslow, Toni & Guy, in the Partner Category. All gold award winners will go on an all-expenses paid trip with their model to the international live final in Vienna at the end of September. ✂
Creative Category Gold Award Winner
Lauren Roma Hanlon, Slunks
FRINGE MAGAZINE
Partner Category Gold Award Winner
Richard munslow, Toni & Guy
New Talent Category Gold Award Winner
Courtney Cairns, Headromance
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KEVIN.MURPHY
COLOURING.ANGELS Formulated with Green Tea, Olive Leaf and Grape Seed to moisturise and impart lip gloss-like shine to the hair.
www.kevinmurphystore.ie
@lovekmireland
@lovekmireland
TrendVision Ireland Finalists
The WElla PRoFEssIoNals TrendVision Award 2019 Ireland finalists… revealed.
IRElaND HEaT WINNERs CREaTIVE aRTIsT oF THE YEaR >>Nikita Purdy, Crow Street Collective >>Vitor Pessoa >>Denise Phillips, Pelo Hairdressing >> Leandro Santana Santos, Decode
Hair by Leandro >>Zara McIntyre, House of Colour >>Adam Loughnane-Hill, Aviary Lane ColoR aRTIsT oF THE YEaR >>Dean Monks, The Hive >>Clare Kenny >> Niamh Coleman, Niall Colgan
FRINGE MAGAZINE
he #WeLLACReATIVeReMIX featuring the TrendVision Award heats took place in August with a fresh new format that included a model showcase, catwalk shows from hOB Academy’s Akin Konizi and Jake Unger, and a show by The Wella Professionals Style Council* with Bruce Masefield. The event also featured creative demonstration zones, a competitor gallery and Robert eaton’s wig installation. A total of 14 Ireland finalists were announced and they will compete at the TrendVision Award UK and Ireland Final in September at The Roundhouse, Camden, London. ✂ wella.co.uk/trendvision
Hairdressing
>>Olivia O’Keeffe, Pelo Hairdressing >> Ciara Murphy, Red Apple
Hairdressing >>Lorraine Ann Savage, L.A. Hair RUNWaY >> Eve Leva Markava, BUUHUU
Hair and Blonde Specialist MalE GRooMING >> Richard Gorman, Richard
Michaels Hair Design
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021 - 23401042
Instastyle
SamaNtha IRwIN of Pure Hair
in Belfast talks killer content and audience engagement.
FRINGE MAGAZINE
e use our instagram as a portfolio of our day-to-day work. A lot of our followers are 18-29 and we get a lot of inquiries via Instagram regarding the major transformations we post. My social media skills are all self-taught: YouTube videos on how to take pictures and how to use hashtags. I use the hashtags I know customers use when looking for hair inspiration or a change: #pinkhaircolour, #curlyhaircut, but I will always tag the location or city, it means you can always show up in someone’s feed. Hairdressers we love include @jbmazella for inspirational haircutting, @hob_academy, @akin_konizi all amazing haircutting. For colour or editorial, we follow @notanothersalon, @robertjeaton, @angeloseminara_hair, @eugenesouleiman @johannacreebrown and @peteburkill. @notanothersalon and the American brand @thedrybar have the right content and engagement with their audience which, from the outside, seems to really drive their businesses. This is something we all strive for with social media but you have to have the right content and quality of work because if it’s not good enough then you shouldn’t post it. ✂ @purebelfast
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Introducing the new
א ڷǔȸƺƺ ȸȒǼǼɀ Ȓǔ ǔȒǣǼ
automatic hairfoil dispenser #freedomtocreate
Contact National Beauty Distribution www.nationalbeauty.ie | 021 234 0142 info@nationalbeauty.ie
Get The Look
Have repair masks at the ready for this look Hair hit new heights at the Moschino AW19 show.
GEt thE look >> First, wigs were dried with ghd air
hairdryer and ghd ceramic brush to add volume and movement. >> Then, wigs were teased with the ghd narrow dressing brush and brushed with the ghd oval dressing brush to smooth. >> To finish the look, Jimmy used the ghd final fix spray: “We used tons of this hairspray to freeze the looks and make hair hard and very shiny.” ✂
FRINGE MAGAZINE
Jeremy Scott’s collection for Moschino was inspired by the game shows of the 80s, a bold technicolour escape from reality, with hair executed by Jimmy Paul and the ghd team. “I interpreted it with big wigs humourous and feminine at the same time - with a retro feeling,” explains Paul. “Big sexy hair became a sort of signature look for me.”
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To stock Invisibobble in your salon please contact the National Beauty Team info@nationalbeauty.ie | www.nationalbeauty.ie | 021 234 0142
Innovator
Danny Pato’s stunning collection merges Asian and avian influences.
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beautiful
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Innovator
of established and up-and-coming photographers, makeup artists, stylists and fashion designers, enabling hair professionals to easily build creative teams. With this collection, he is a finalist for Oneshot Hair Awards in the US and TCT in Spain, and is pre-nominated for International Hairdresser of the Year at the International Hairdressing Awards. Here, he takes us through the inspiration and evolution of Tori. >>
Pato is actively involved in salon sustainability and charity initiatives, raising $28,000 for KidsCan by selling prints of his photographic collections, $5,000 for Mercy Hospice Auckland by holding a Haircuts for Hospice event, and donating $7,000 to the victims of the Christchurch terror attacks in New Zealand. Danny launched the D&M Directory (directory.dandm. co.nz), a free online database
FRINGE MAGAZINE
anny Pato scooped the Hair Expo New Zealand Hairdresser of the Year for the fourth time in a row this summer with his Japanese-influenced collection, Tori. The co-founder and creative director of the multi-awardwinning D&M Hair Design in Auckland, New Zealand, is an acclaimed editorial session stylist, he has directed hair for fashion weeks from Auckland to New York and for editorial shoots in magazines such as Vogue, Fashion Quarterly, Oyster and Remix.
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What inspired the collection? It started
What does it mean to win this award again?
as a tribute to the significant influence Japan continues to have in the world of design. I wanted to create bold silhouettes and combine them with exotic avian beauty to reference ancient Japanese feminine dress codes, re-interpreting them for a current design aesthetic.
It somehow means more to me now than when I first won it. For the Hair Expo Awards, you’re judged on your ability to create unique, technically advanced, innovative work. But you’re equally judged on your leadership, teamwork and business acumen, on how you advance the industry and how you give back. I’m passionate about all of these parts of our industry and challenge myself to push myself further each year; it’s a real honour to be recognised in this way.
How did the looks evolve? I like to tell a story with each collection. Once I’ve got a clear vision about what I want to tell and what direction I want to take, I actually start with the garments. I draw silhouettes, source fabrics and have them locally produced. Then I move on to makeup, creating mood boards and meeting with the amazing Kiekie Stanners from MAC to bring it to life. I worked with the insanely talented illustrator Kelly Thompson on one of Kathryn Wilson’s NZ Fashion Week shows.
How has this award influenced your career? It’s provided me with some amazing opportunities, like doing my first Salon International show in London. But moreso, it’s helped me to keep upping my own game, challenging myself to keep improving, to keep giving back what I’ve learned. ✂
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The
Awards
2019
FRINGE MAGAZINE
stablished to celebrate the outstanding talent in the Irish hair industry, the Fringe Magazine Awards are back and this year we have a new category to get excited about as well as some familiar faces on our judging panel. With help from our industry experts and icons, we have shortlisted the country’s best and brightest, from social media mavens and outstanding interiors to the up-and-comers to established empires.
BEST USE OF SOCIAL MEDIA
INDUSTRy INFLUENCER
Awarded to the salon for their clever and
Awarded to an individual using social media
creative use of social media to advertise and
to build a personal brand and develop
promote their business
themselves as an industry leader
n The
n Andrew
Greene Room @greeneroomie n Maven @hairmaven.ie n Nicholas Graham @nicholasgrahamsalon n Grow Unltd @grow_unltd n Sarah Lyons Hair and Beauty @sarahlyonshairandbeautybar n Pure Hair @purebelfast n Zero One Salon @zeroonesalon n Origin Hair Design @originhairdesign n Romina Daniel @rominadanielsalon
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Vote now!
Dunn @hairbymane Grimes @hairmaven.ie n Sabrina Hill @superstylesabby n Paul Davey @pauldaveyhair n Denise Phillips @pelodolls n Denise Walsh @rustiqdenise n Nancy Cavanagh @bellehairextensionsireland n Nigel Kenny @hairbynigelandco n Katrina Kelly @katrinakellyeducation n John Keegan @johnkeeganhair n Michelle
The shortlist in each category will be voted by you, the reader, so visit our website, fringemagazine.ie, to vote. The closing date is October 20th, 2019. All winners will receive a stunning trophy engraved with their win and be featured in a forthcoming issue of Fringe Magazine.
#FringeAwards BEst REtaIl IN saloN
awarded to the salon with the
thE YEaR
most innovative retail display
awarded to the male
n Preen
grooming salon standing head
n Black
and shoulders above the rest
We are delighted to welcome the International Artistic Director of Sebastian Professional and multi-award winning superstar shaY dEMPsEY to our judging panel. Just some of the awards this Irish icon has scored include the L’Oréal Colour Trophy and the Wella International TrendVision Colour award and we look forward to his observations and insights on our nominees. As the founder of Ireland’s first beauty blog, Beaut.ie, the former Head of Content at 256, Ireland’s first content marketing agency, and current Editorial Director of House and Home magazine, we are thrilled to draw on KIRstIE McdERMott’s immense expertise across content, social media and the online environment, and, of course, interiors. As Editor of Image Interiors & Living, aMaNda KavaNaGh gets to see inside the most beautiful homes and commercial spaces in Ireland. Working with this country’s best photographers, stylists and writers, across print, social and online, and with a creative agency background, Amanda understands how modern brands must communicate across ever-changing platforms. ✂
Hair and Beauty Amber, Gorey n Salon B n Origin Hair Design n The Salon by Simon Fergus n Ischia Hair and Beauty n DKY Hair Company n Zero One Salon, Dublin 2 n Batissti Hairdressing, Belfast n Custom Cuts, Athlone oNE to Watch
n The
Dublin Barber Academy Barber n Sam’s Barbers n Cut and Shave n The Asylum Barbershop n Loud Fades n Paul Mac Special n Signature Hair n Gmale n The Grooming Rooms n The
awarded to the hair creative making waves in the Irish
GRaNd saloN oF thE YEaR
hair industry
awarded to the best
n Danielle
individual salon for their
Larkin, The Space n Andy Cronin, Carbon Hair Design n Janice McCarthy, Be Fabulous n Scott Relihan, Origin Hair Design n Carmen McCracken, DKY Hair Company n Jake Ryan, Preen Hair and Beauty n Aine Carty, Rossano’s Hair and Beauty, Donegal n Anna O’Hanlon, Hession Hairdressing Drumcondra n Eifa Dagger, Black Amber, Gorey
service, presence and contribution to the Irish hair industry n Leonard
Hair and Beauty Colgan Hairdressing n Kopper Hair Salon n Custom Cuts, Athlone n Cheveux Hair Salon n Batissti Hairdressing, Belfast n Nicholas Graham Salon n Pelo Hairdressing n Zero One Salon, Dublin 2 n Hession Hairdressing, Drumcondra n Niall
GREEN hERo BEst saloN INtERIoR
awarded to the salon with the most outstanding or original interior n Mask
Hair Hair Salon n Crown n The Hair Cafe n The Greene Room n Colourcode Hair Salon n Elite Hair Extensions n Nicholas Graham Salon n Alan Keville for Hair, Dublin 2 n Reeb n Cheveux
We want you to tell us how your salon champions the environment. What waste reduction, and water and energy conservation policies have you implemented? What ethical and sustainable brands are you looking to? Email up to 500 words about your green practises to tara@fringehq.com.
JUdGING PaNEl
FRINGE MAGAZINE
MalE GRooMING saloN oF
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RISING NIALL COLGAN’s was a life driven by fear,
addiction and abuse, culminating in a night that threatened his relationship, his business and his life. Here, he shares his journey back to sobriety and success.
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started hairdressing at 15 with the Hugh Campbell Hair Group. I stayed with him for 20 years until Bellissimo in Limerick came along in 2004 and made me an offer I couldn’t refuse. We renamed the hairdressing side of it The Director’s Cut. It was a success for a few years. For various reasons I couldn’t fulfill my leadership role in that company and it turned sour. In February, 2009 I was fired.
Looking back now, as a salon owner, if I had employed me back then I definitely would have taken similar action. I had to open my own salon but I didn’t know how to go about it, but when the Universe puts something in your path, you go for it. I went really high end and opened on O’Callaghan Strand in Limerick, a beautiful spot. We opened on the 11th June, 2009 and it was a white-knuckle ride from the beginning. When you are a manager or a creative or educational
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director, nothing prepares you for the tasks you face as a salon owner. I had no idea how to order colour, or how much to pay people. It was terrifying. I made a crucial mistake by starting with too big a team. The recession kicked in and that was crushing. I was busy from the get-go but I found myself doing all the work so I couldn’t realise anything like the money I thought I would. I stuttered along for the first few years, trying to prove to everyone that we were doing great
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Cover Star The Guards and the Coast Guard were at the cliffs when I arrived but they didn’t recognise me. When I got to the car park, I turned on my phone and there was 174 missed calls, 60 voicemails. My sister Orla rang and I answered. I can only imagine her fear, hearing the wind at the edge of the cliffs in the background. A Guard approached me and I was taken for a week-long stint in St Pat’s (a mental health services hospital) in Dublin. Even though I was in rehab and couldn’t see light at the end of the tunnel, it was the first time I had ever been completely solitary and it gave me time to think. I started to look at myself and where I was going in life. I realised I couldn’t drink or take drugs. After a week, I had to get back to the salon, it was in freefall. I realised you are only as sick as your secrets so when Melie came to pick me up, I shared everything with her. I told her that I would become a different person and I asked her for the opportunity for us to move on, and she gave it to me. She is a very special person for doing that. Had she not, I wouldn’t be here. Because of the things that had happened to me as a child, I had never experienced gratitude. It’s an exceptional feeling, and I have felt it ever since that day. I had to get back to work. My clientele had halved because of the drama that surrounded the awards and I had to start again. I just put my head down and began rebuilding my life and my business. I bought my premises, it’s right on the river Shannon with the most beautiful aspect. I rang my brother and said, ‘my offer has been accepted on the salon,’ and he burst into tears. ‘From the Cliffs of Moher to salon owner with a growing business in five years,’ he said, ‘I couldn’t be prouder.’ My mum got sick in January 2018. We had a very difficult relationship: I left school at 15 because I was severely bullied and as a result I was kicked out home. It gave me the opportunity to visit with her and make things better between us. She was also an addict and an alcoholic. She was critically ill and
We Won the IrIsh salon of the year on the
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My partner Melie and I had two kids and in December 2012, our older child was diagnosed with autism. I had to get through Christmas in the salon and she was grieving about it on her own. 2013 became really difficult for Melie and I. She learned everything she could about autism and I buried my head in the sand, trying to prove to everyone that I had the best salon in Ireland. I started to drink more and take cocaine again. I had stopped when I met Melie. Now, we were drifting apart. We won the Irish salon of the year at the Schwarzkopf Professional Irish Hairdressing Business Awards on the 21st October, 2013. I was obsessed with that competition, I really wanted to win it. We had won Munster Salon of the Year in 2012 and I put all of my time and energy into it. I knew we were in with a shot, we put together a beautiful entry, I had a beautiful salon and a core team that was really good. We won it and I was over the moon. It ended up being the worst night of my life. I made a complete and utter asshole of myself and I was caught, and the story travelled around. I was talked about in the industry, and I faced potentially losing my family and my salon. On the 27th of October, a week after the awards, I found myself on the Cliffs of Moher. I hadn’t told anyone I was going there. I thought to myself, my life is over. I was out of home, I was out of my family life. Melie and my brother were going to have me removed as a director of the company. My dream was gone. I woke up that morning and I felt an elation and a freedom and I drove to the cliffs. But people came looking for me and saw my car was missing. Melie’s sister was in the Coast Guard and she went to the Guards and they pinged my phone. I was eight kilometers from the cliffs at that stage. I was ready to do it. I couldn’t take it. I had caused destructive pain cycles all my life due to clerical abuse I had suffered as a child, and here I was again. I didn’t want to go on.
21st october, 2013. I Was over the moon. It ended up beIng 31
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died on the 27th February. Two days before, I visited her on my own. I sat with her and held her hand and told her that I understood how difficult her life had been, I told her about my difficulties, that she needn’t feel guilt or shame and that she could pass peacefully. She just kept looking at me and holding my hand and it was the most special four hours of my life. It was a chance to put so much of my childhood to bed. While we were there, a doctor came in and she was beautiful and mum asked her if she was a spirit. I never left her side until she passed and when she died, all of the fear and pain and insecurity that I had ever felt in my life disappeared. She took it. I stood up a different man than I sat down. I had been a fear-driven boss, afraid of my staff: was I saying or doing the right thing? I was controlled somewhat by my team. I think ego is born out of weakness and I was very egotistical. I tried to prove to people that I was something, and it was difficult being me. But from that moment, the 27th February, it was gone. The day after her funeral I was back behind the chair and I knew my goals and visions and I was going to implement from that day.
I remembered the words that Anthony Mascolo had told me years before. I had entered two competitions and he had been a judge at both. I came fourth in one and second in another. He gave me his first preference each time. He took me aside and told me that I had something special. ‘You’ve got an eye and a vision, cut every head of hair like you are going to photograph it. If you do that, you will be successful.’ That was the end of me and competitions, and I always had that in the back of my head. But why wasn’t I imparting it to my team? Because of all the fear that I had carried around, I didn’t think I had that skill or ability until the day after my mom’s funeral. I told the team we were going to photograph every piece of work and show Limerick and Ireland what we can do, and in 35 years I have never worked with a team so closely. Now, we are videoing my work and putting it on Instagram TV, and the messages from world-class hairdressers watching what I’m doing is phenomenal. We’ve had so much growth because of social media, my team is fully booked. But my account isn’t for other hairdressers, it’s for potential clients and we have turned so many people into clients because they see pictures of hair done today, in my salon. It’s been a gamechanger. The majority of my clients are from outside of Limerick and now we are flying. I have only become the leader that I always wanted to be when my mother died. Back then it was all about ego. Now it’s all about my team, building a culture and building our brand. I have 19 staff, a relatively young team, many of them Niall Colgan-trained. Thanks to our Instagram, I have a gazillion people wanting to be part of the team and I have the pick of the crop. I’ve just taken on a new manager who worked in retail for the last ten years. She has no hairdressing experience but she has the ordering, the floor, the till under control. That’s another step in the right direction. The Universe is dropping people in my lap at the moment, it’s very exciting. I was told that the average lifespan for a male hairdresser is 45 years of age. Then things start to drop off, they lose focus, younger people start to come through and they feel disillusioned. Now, I am the young person coming through at 50 years of age. All of a sudden I have the confidence, and I have the ability and now I’m not afraid to show people what I can do. ✂ niallcolganhairdressing.ie
You are the artist Pulp Riot is the paint. This mix by @jaywesleyolson
@pulpriotireland
www.pulpriot.ie
To use Pulp Riot in your salon contact National Beauty Distribution 021 234 0142 info@nationalbeauty.ie
showing The experts at PhoREst give us their guide to getting to the top of the Google search.
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ou know from your clients that you have an excellent in-store reputation. But do the comments left about you online match the word on the street? We believe that by building and monitoring your business’ online reputation, you’re putting your salon or spa in the best possible position to get clients – new and existing – in more often, spending more. In this article, learn about the importance of monitoring what people say about you online and how you can manage it.
Choosing, in a world too full of options
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The more options we’re presented with, the harder it is for us to choose. Restaurants well know this and that’s in part why groups tend to have a special menu with only a few options. It reduces complexity for the customer to pick, and well, in the restaurant industry, it also reduces complexity in prep and cooking. Today, whether it’s to buy a new phone or book a spa treatment, we have so many businesses we can turn to, so many choices, that it’s become second nature to look up and consider online
reviews. We’ve come a long way from the simple thumbs up or thumbs down. Monitoring your online reputation
When a potential client googles your salon’s name, they’re usually looking for a few things. They might try to find your address, your phone number and email, look up your services and prices, or simply take a sneak peek at your salon’s photos. But, no matter where your clients look, they see reviews. Not only do reviews help to define your online reputation amongst competing
Online Management salons, they also contribute to increasing your Google business rating without the hassle of paying for SEO services.
including ranking higher in Google search results. The harder part is encouraging this behaviour. A few tips
How can you monitor what people are saying about your salon online?
Most potential clients will check out reviews about your salon online before they book with you for the first time. How can you make sure that what they read will be accurate, fair and complementary? How can you have control over this conversation? Salon Today says it best: “You can’t automate a haircut or highlights, and who would want to? But you can automate many of the things that make it more profitable to provide those haircuts and highlights, like boosting your online reviews and tamping down negative reviews before they burn out of control.” The Phorest Online Reputation Manager, on the Complete Advantage Package, lets you take control of how people treat, react and rate your business online. As Tomy Lulgjuraj, co-owner of 6 Salon puts it: “With Phorest’s online reputation management, all we have to worry about now is doing great work and providing great service to all of our new and existing clients.” Key features
Being proactive with reviews
“From a psychological point of view,” Laura Badiu of TrustYou explains, “knowing that your review has the power to influence the decision of other people can be a form of empowerment; you feel important and you know that your voice has an impact. Also, there’s a certain sense of altruism when you think that your opinion and suggestions can help a business improve and achieve better results in the future.” A reassuring fact – since as business owners you are reliant on reviews for so many things,
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>> Monitors and controls what’s being said about your business on Google, Facebook and Yelp! >> Allows you to respond to positive and negative comments from one clean and clear dashboard >> Increases your amount of five-star reviews through automated settings >> Gets your salon to stand out from your competition online >> Improves your salon’s website ranking on Google (SEO)
>> After their appointment, send your clients an email or text message asking them to review you (this you can automate with Phorest Salon Software). >> Encourage your staff to ask clients for feedback. Perhaps even incentivise your team by rewarding mentions of their name in reviews. >> Share positive reviews on your social media accounts and put an emphasis on how you love reading them or how it helps you grow and improve the client experience. >> Start a campaign where you drive people to leave a positive five-star review for your salon or spa on Google. On the flip side, make sure you’re also proactively responding to both good and bad reviews. Now, about the bad reviews. When a customer is unhappy, it means that in some way, they are passionate about what you provide and good customer service matters to them. Transparency is vital, and you should treat the complaints of salon customers as a free critique. Why? Because without knowing, how can you monitor, measure and improve your services and, turn those salon customers back into happy advocates? Here are some steps to help you navigate the situation: >> Respond promptly >> Take the issues offline and contact your customer privately >> Be polite >> Request that defamatory salon reviews to be removed >> Take negative testimonials seriously >> See the good in the bad review >> Share the negative comment with your team and build a customer centric mindset within your salon Want to find out more?
Phorest is a cloud-based salon software and a powerful system designed to assist salons dayto-day. Phorest’s annual Salon Owners Summit, on Monday 6th January, 2020, is open to all Phorest clients and offers a full day of education, networking and festivities with fellow salon owners and managers. For tickets, please visit salonownersummit.com/dublin. ✂
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To stock Framar in your salon please contact the National Beauty Team info@nationalbeauty.ie | www.nationalbeauty.ie | 021 -234 0142
In The Chair Supporting your fellow stylists is paramount to KElly HoGaN of Rustiq Salon. Creative vision I’ve always had a creative streak.
I can see the potential for something better and team this with my passion for making people feel confident in themselves. Wide world The opportunities are endless in
the Irish hair industry. I’ve tried to dip my toes in all it has to offer. My biggest dive being with competitions. I put all my fears behind me and entered my first one in 2017. I didn’t place but caught the bug and was mesmerised by the entries. I entered again going on to win numerous awards including the Alfaparf Fantastic Junior, Best of the Best Newcomer and IHF Trainee Blowdry. I love the rush and excitement you feel, not only in yourself but for everyone else around you. Wonder women As a
was a massive confidence boost and the start to a career-changing year. Before entering, I had no experience of the hairdressing world
was when I first started in Rustiq. I was told by Denise Walsh to find the busiest stylist and watch them, find out why they’re so busy and what makes them stand out. But when trying to be as good as others it’s easy to lose track of yourself and the vision you have. It’s important to be true to you, your style and your ideals as a hair stylist and this was something I was encouraged to do this by my first manager. Changing views
Unfortunately our industry can sometimes be misconceived as ‘just hairdressing’ but we are hard-working people who go through a massive amount of training and constant upskilling to make people feel good about themselves. It’s a view that is changing. With the help of social media, clients are more informed about what goes on in a salon and the life of a stylist who is constantly working to better themselves for their clients’ needs .
She’s a star Taking part in the IHF Star team
Top tip One of the best pieces of advice I received
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young woman coming into the industry it was such a comfort and inspiration to have talented and savvy stylists to look up to, especially the many female stylists rocking both business and personal lives. I admire the likes of Katrina Kelly and Lisa Eccles who both own their own salons, educate and support other salon owners or stylists. We are so lucky today that with social media, communicating with people we would never normally meet is so accessible and both these women make the effort to connect with others and offer advice when needed. I recently was on a trip to London to meet celeb hairstylist Chris Appleton along with Katrina Kelly and I was blown away by how much knowledge she has to offer on all things hair and business.
outside of the salon walls. I felt like my eyes had been opened to this other side where everyone is encouraged to push past their boundaries. I learned so much about myself as a stylist and what I could actually do. Most importantly, it was in this moment I discovered the massive network of inspiring and like-minded stylists who know that by supporting each other we all grow.
Winning wave A career highlight for me was
placing first in the IHF category Trainee Blowdry. I decided on a vintage wave-style blowdry which I practised for weeks beforehand. On the day, I had 20 minutes to complete the style and finished on the last second. It was tough but I could hear all my work mates cheering me on and it’s that support that rings in my head daily. ✂
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material
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Interiors Concrete and curves define the space at this sublime New York salon.
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leading editorial hairdresser, photographic genius and innovative entrepreneur, Rob Peetoom has founded 15 hair salons around the world throughout his fifty-year career. He has amassed a host of international awards including the Global Salon Business Award, World Master Award and lntercoiffure Academy Award, has judged competitions such as Elite Model Look, Holland’s Next Top Model and Miss Netherlands and was even knighted by the queen of Holland for his outstanding contribution to the industry.
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The Masculo lounge chair (middle) is by luxe design firm, Gubi, and the aubergine Ladyclub chair (right) was designed specially by van Oosterhout for Peetoom salons. The pink curved Julep sofa from Italian brand Tacchini is becoming a star in its own right with clients posing and posting their visit to Instagram.
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The stunning suspension lights are by Flos.
Interiors
our Williamsburg location. We have created a beauty parlor with small cabins in which you can enjoy treatments with Biologique Recherche or a Balinese Hair and Scalp Ritual. Stretched out, your hair is steamed and your scalp nicely massaged. It goes much further than just ‘going to the hairdresser.’” In the golden-toned bar, guests can relax with a drink or bite to eat. “We host in-salon events almost every week for about 20 guests and provide them with the Rob Peetoom experience, where they get hair or facial treatments in combination with good music, wine, cheese and pastries.” Trust is the key to this enduring design partnership. “Rob is a solid brainstorming partner, he gives me all the space and freedom to create. He can look beyond a trend like no other, he has a long-term vision and I think that is fantastic. I am allowed to work with quality materials, which is important for a designer. Within the concept of Rob Peetoom, all locations have their own unique identity, but the great thing is that they are all brothers and sisters. I think that’s important, because a salon in Williamsburg needs a different approach than, for example our salons in Hoorn, Utrecht or Bali.” ✂ robpeetoom.nl
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Peetoom’s first US salon opened in October 2018 in trendy Williamsburg, New York, which he says, completes the company ethos: “Our roots lie in the Netherlands, which is all about natural beauty, and when we expanded into Bali, we were seeking the inner beauty element. Now, we balance it with the aspirational beauty from New York.” At over 4,000 square feet, the Williamsburg salon features curved walls, one-hundred year old restored wood pillars, tailor-made furniture from Italy and customised stations designed by Dutch designer and architect Ruud van Oosterhout who has worked with Peetoom since 1998. “We designed the salon in Heemstede in The Netherlands and working together was so pleasant that I have have grown and evolved with the company.” “In New York, it all started with concrete colors, the different pigments in that concrete, and because I want to create salons that are still trendy after five or ten years, I look beyond the trends of today. The property is an old soda factory, it’s a large empty industrial space with seventeen solid oak robust columns in the middle. There is a lot of glass in the façade which provides a beautiful natural light, and the salon itself has beautiful glass panels in mauve and mustard shades. There is more room for ‘experience’ in
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Lightbulb Moment jOE hIll, Aveda Hair Colour Specialist UK and Ireland,
talks about his online icons and boosting business confidence. Early start My mum is a hairdresser
so from an early age I would sit in the colour dispensary, organising the perm rods and running around looking for jobs to do in the hope that one of the clients would tip me enough to buy sweets. It wasn’t long before I realised hairdressing was exactly what I wanted to do. I loved everything about it: the transformation, the creativity and how you can make people feel on top of the world. Feeling shady Colour inspires my work. It
Cashing in How our industry has developed
Straight fail My worst hair mistake happened
when I was training: I didn’t over direct the layers around the face and ended up giving the poor model an asymmetric haircut! I laugh about it now but at the time I was terrified!
Online icons Instagram is a great form of education. I love watching @justinandersoncolor – his work is my type of work, from intricate colour contouring to bespoke balayage – it has that super natural ‘expensive’ looking hair. I follow Not Another Salon (@notanothersalon), I love what they are doing for our industry at the moment, and James Dun’s House (@jdhaveda) – I’ve worked closely with the business and love how they operate. Cute clients In an Instagram world full
of beautiful hair, guests expectations are so high! The days of those ‘little hair mags’ have come to an end! We now have to break the image down: has it been enhanced? Filters? Photoshopped? Lighting? I also think guests are becoming a lot smarter, they do their research and sometimes inform us of the trend before we hear about it. That’s why education is so important. Professional passion Thinking positively
and always pushing myself keeps me motivated. I also find motivation through my salon guests – I encourage them to push my creative skillset. I’ve always said the day I wake up and I have a negative feeling regarding work, I’ll do something else. Luckily that hasn’t happened yet! It’s all to do with passion – the want to do good and make people feel good. ✂ @thecolourboy
is one of the positive changes I have witnessed. Hairdressing used to be perceived as a lowpaid career whereas now it truly can be one of the most well paid jobs out there. I’d like to see stylists knowing their worth. Whether you’re freelancing or running a small local salon, I’d like to see a mind-set switch with more support to help stylists feel more confident when it comes to pricing and being business savvy.
was having the opportunity to help design a new colour line. I worked alongside labs and scientists which gave me a real insight into how hair colour works – it’s technical, it’s precision work (like myself ), it’s all in the right formulations and it gave me another level of appreciation for my trade.
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gives so many different emotional feelings and I love the psychology behind it: think red, feel love, passion, warmth, whereas violet has a real mysteriousness about it, it’s comforting, it’s loyalty. The real magic happens in translating these to suit each individual guest’s colour palette. When it comes to technique I am a total neat freak, I obsess over mapping out my sections, I like my work to look just as good when processing, as the finished result. My ultimate hair hero is @ianmichaelblack – his work is immaculate and a true inspiration to me.
Colour crush A huge career highlight
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Book Extract
prEsENt ANd coRREct Add some pop to your presentation.
Audiences need to feel that they are part of your presentation. They need to believe that you are having a conversation with them that they can contribute to, even if they don’t contribute out loud. In many ways the aim of a presenter is to get the audience to contribute to the presentation inside the confines of their own head. This means getting your audience to think about your presentation and how it can benefit them. It means delivering the presentation in a way that resonates with them and making sure that they don’t get distracted and start thinking about something else. To do this, presenters need to employ ‘audience engagement techniques’. These are elements in presentations that will make some parts of your
presentation stand out from the whole, which are then easier to recall a week later because of how they connected with the audience. In a twentyminute presentation a presenter will use between 2,500 and 3,000 words and the reality is that most of these words will be forgotten almost as soon as they have been said. The challenge is how as a presenter, when your words are being forgotten, do you make sure your message is remembered? Audience engagement techniques work because they generate a reaction in the audience. Whether that reaction is physical, emotional or intellectual, it is more easily remembered than words. If you ask an audience what they can remember about a presentation a week after they heard it, the first thing they will recall is something that applied directly to themselves. It might be that they laughed, or carried out a physical action, or made sense of something the presenter said that they then applied to their own personal circumstances. Once they recall their reaction, they
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Presenting to our peers isn’t something we are automatically comfortable with but it can be required from time to time. In this extract from Persuade on Purpose, Eric Fitzpatrick shares some techniques to engage your audience.
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eric fitzpatrick
can remember the relevance of that reaction and that helps them to remember your message. TECHNIQUES TO ENGAGE
established ARK Speaking and Training in 2009. He is a well-known conference speaker and has spoken, coached and trained in the USA, the UK and throughout Ireland.
YOUR AUDIENCE
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>>Humour Humour is a powerful tool for sales professionals. Victor Borge once said, ‘Laughter is the shortest distance between two people.’ Making an audience laugh, in an appropriate manner, goes a long way towards helping a presenter connect with them. An audience’s laughter is a signal of their acceptance of the presenter or the presenter’s point of view. This acceptance makes it easier for them to buy into a presenter’s ideas. Laughter is an internal reaction to an external stimulus and when trying to recall the details of a presentation a day, a week or a month after it was delivered, we find it easier to remember our internal reactions. Once we remember the internal reaction it becomes easier to remember the information that generated that reaction. Humour engages an audience and holds their attention. That said, for many presenters, making an audience laugh can be challenging. Some presenters believe that they are not funny, while others are afraid that audiences won’t laugh where they are supposed to. The good news is that anyone can learn to be funnier, can learn how to inject humour into presentations. >>Dialogue Dialogue is a tool that can be used
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by a presenter to reinforce a point they are trying to make. It works when the presenter decides to become the person or persons in the example they are using to make that point. Instead of just giving the example as something that happened in the past, dialogue allows the presenter to deliver the example as if it is taking place in front of the audience. This changes how the audience receives it. They become more active when they feel that the story is unfolding in front of them and this increases the impact of the message. As an example of dialogue, I tell a story about my eight-year-old nephew. I use this story to illustrate that on occasion we can all make an assumption that we know the correct answer to a question or problem, but then discover that our assumption is wrong. One day my nephew was
sitting at the dinner table when his mother decided to explain who the Suffragettes were. She looked at him and said, ‘There was a time in history when men could vote and women couldn’t and a group of women got together to address this terrible injustice.’ She then asked her son a question: ‘Do you know what those women were called?’ Her son looked at her confidently and said, ‘I do, mum. They were called prostitutes.’ The dialogue brings the example to life in front of the audience, which increases the impact of the message.
>>Audience involvement Getting your audience to physically do something during your presentation is a very effective means of engaging them. It also helps to create understanding and makes your message easier to remember. When demonstrating how easy it is for our message to be misunderstood, I will often ask audiences to tear a piece of paper by following a set of instructions. I give everyone a plain sheet of A4 paper and ask them to hold the sheet in both hands and close their eyes. I then ask them to fold the piece of paper in half and, once done, ask them to tear off the right-hand corner. They repeat the action of folding and tearing another three times. They then open out their sheet of paper, open their eyes and hold up the sheet for everyone to see. In spite of the fact that everyone received the same instructions the audience members always end up with a plethora of vastly different results. There are two reasons for this. The first reason is due to how they interpret my instructions and the second is due to the lack of clarity of those instructions. There are many different types of activities available to a presenter. Spending a little bit of time finding appropriate activities and practising getting comfortable with using them will add significantly to the impact of your presentation. I have had audience members meet me months later and comment that they can still remember the activity or action I asked them to get involved in. ✂
Persuade on Purpose by Eric Fitzpatrick (Mercier Press) is available now from all good bookstores and on Amazon.
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The Final Cut Winner of the Hair Expo South Australia and Tasmania Hairdresser of The Year Award 2019 and Editor’s Choice Award Winner, Sam JamES talks bookkeeping and her new business. Big on top My favourite cut? Oh I’m a mullet
kind of girl for sure. I love the versatility and the mullet is a signature of mine, I’ve done it many different ways but it doesn’t get old for me. Edgy, pretty, editorial: I love reinventing it.
know what I stand for and how much my team and I do in the industry, so they’re applying because they want to be a part of that and I find that helps keep them accountable. Top tip To be personable with every client
Hair heroes My heroes are people who inspired
me as a young stylist, greats like Sharon Blain, Benni Tognini, Shane Henning were amongst those. As I’ve grown in the industry, my heroes grew to include people who are doing things differently and helping strengthen the industry, as well as creative geniuses that help inspire my collections: Jules Tognini, Angelo Seminara, Akin Konizi, Kobi Bokshish. Finding greatness There’s
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so much great hair! One of my favourite things is when finalists are announced all over the world, I stalk the collections I love and find all the new talented souls. Great hair to me is unique and someone always pushing those boundaries is Angelo. New adventures I’ve just ventured out with my own brand and left a partnership. I literally cried every time my clients walked through the door the first two weeks. I was honestly hoping for half, but to have all of my clients support me was the most humbling special experience of my career. A big achievement outside of the salon though, is winning the South Australian/Tasmanian Hairdresser of the Year title this year for the fourth time.
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Hiring how-to If they’re driven and ooze passion and initiative, they’re hired. I only hire through social media now too, as they follow my journey,
always. Building the relationship is, in a lot of cases, more important than the service you’re giving when it comes to trying to retain clients. If they remember you, you’re halfway there, but a client needs to see you at least three times before they consider you their new hairdresser. Consistency during those appointments is key as well as incredible hair. Business woes The bookkeeping is very hectic. I believe you have to have someone doing that properly with you. More as a mentor and guide for how to win at small business as there’s so many overheads to juggle, and staff wages are huge. My girl is great, we have the same vision and goals. I am mapping out what needs to happen figures-wise for me to come off the floor half a day, to have time with the team consistently. It’s so important but we’re such a young business, I’m mindful we can’t go backwards with our figures right now. Future plans A lot more 1am finishes with all the
behind the scenes stuff still happening with the business, re-budgeting and planning as we’ve grown so quickly, I’ve outgrown my six-month plan in the first month. For me as an artist, some MATRIX education workshops, Brisbane H&B expo, business submission entries to write and new collections to shoot... so, not much! ✂ @samij_hair
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b3 DEMI PERMANENT CONDITIONER KIT: 1 - 1 Litre b3 DEMI PERMANENT CONDITIONER 1 - 120ml b3 BRAZILIAN BOND BUILDER 1 - DOSAGE SYRINGE 1 - b3 COLOR APPLICATOR BRUSH 1 - b3 COLOR BOWL
SALON COST TOTAL VALUE
€170.00 €91.00 *PRICE EXCLUDES VAT
DEMI PERMANENT CONDITIONER IS A GAME CHANGER FOR DAMAGED HAIR. IRIS SMITH @glamiris For more information of to use B3 in your salon contact National Beauty info@nationalbeauty.ie | www.nationalbeauty.ie | 021 234 0142
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