IRELAND’S ONLY SALON STYLIST MAGAZINE
ISSUE 9 Volume 3 Spring €9.50
CARLA ROSE McqUILLAN AND NADINE qUINN ARE...
generation next
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ARE YOU COLOR OBSESSED? You’re not alone! At Goldwell we believe in the power of color, but more importantly in the power of colorists like you! This is the year for pure color creativity – bold colors and stunning shades. Forget the boring brunettes and lacklustre blondes – it’s time to give every client show-stopping hair color. So join us in Colormania. Let’s make 2019 the most colorful year ever.
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Contents 9 Shop talk New launches and top trends
13 Handiwork
36
The tools the experts choose
17 New in town Kao salon Division expands into Ireland
19 Instagram insider Katherine sweeney of Preen on upskilling online
21 The trend report Key catwalk cuts
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26 The disruptors Nadine Quinn and Carla McQuillan are changing the game
32 In profile A rapid-fire round with luke Benson
35 In the chair
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36 Into the blue Hair CafĂŠ in smithfield has green leanings
41 Lightbulb moment Ben Garry believes ongoing education is key
Michelle Grimes on making it work
46 Taking back your power learning to say no
48 The final cut We chat to BHA Hall of Fame member, shane Bennett COVER PHOTOGRAPH: Al HIGGINs
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43 Collaboration nation
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Roisin Hynes has her sights set on london
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Floor Categories ★ Trainee Ladies Creative Blow-Dry ★ Trainee Ladies Full Fashion ★ Trainee Ladies Long Hair Up (Street Fashion) ★ Trainee Ladies Fantasy ★ Avant Garde ★ Senior Ladies Long Hair Up (Classic, Non-Bridal) ★ Senior Ladies Trend Cut Full Fashion ★ Senior Ladies Editorial ★ Senior Ladies Fantasy ★ Mens Fade Master ★ Mens Classic Barbers Cut ★ Mens Fashion Image PhotograPhiC Categories ★ Editorial - Individual Entry ★ Colour - Individual Entry ★ Gents - Individual Entry ★ Artistic Team Collection Team Entry, 4 Images
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sunday May 19th | Croke Park - dublin register online for this year’s irish hairdressers Federation Championships from March 2019 www.irishhairfed.com
Editor’s Letter
The first issue of this year is crammed with advice, expertise and inspiration.
IRELAND’S ONLY SALON STYLIST MAGAZINE
ISSUE 9 C\YbZR @]_V[T â‚Ź& "
CARLA ROSE McqUILLAN AND NADINE qUINN ARE...
generation next
Tara Corristine PuBLISHERS
Kieran Walsh Will McCreevey ART DIRECTOR
Susan Conley
FRINGE MAGAZINE
EDITOR
It’s been a busy start to the year and no-one knows that better than our cover stars: Forward-thinking, inclusive and ambitious, Carla Rose McQuillan and Nadine Quinn were determined to create a different salon culture when they launched The Space, Drumcondra in 2016. Setting aside old standards of practise and instituting new norms, this dynamic duo are paving the way for shared success. Turn to page 28 to read our interview. Elsewhere in the issue we share events, trends and ask the tough questions. Kao Salon Division certainly know how to make an entrance: see the highlights from the launch party in the Mansion House on page 17. There’s sound advice throughout the issue, with online wisdom from our Instagram insider Katherine Sweeney of Preen on page 18, recruitment tips from Ben Garry on page 41, and how to say no and mean it on page 46. The new season heralds new styles and we have the lowdown in our trend report on page 21, while on page 36 we take a peek inside Smithfield’s Hair CafÊ. We put the pressing questions to Luke Benson on page 32, while hotdesking for hair is how Michelle Grimes explains the Maven model. Read more about her collaborative space on page 43. If you want to ensure you never miss an issue of Fringe Magazine, why not subscribe and get a free gift from new brand, Eleven Australia. See page 16 for full details. Is your year off to a busy start? Has the increased VAT rate taken its toll? Are you struggling to find or keep staff? We want to know the topics that matter to you, so please drop me a line at Tara@FringeHQ.com. See you in the sunshine,
@fringemagazine.ie @fringemag_ie @fringemagazine_ie
www.fringemagazine.ie For advertising queries, please email Tara@fringehq.com or call 021 234 0142
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Check us out on social media for news, reviews and competitions. Got a question, suggestion or would like to see a topic covered? Drop me a line at Tara@FringeHQ.com
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Shop Talk
retro REVIVAL Brightly coloured beehives were an unexpected showing on the spring catwalks. Guido created structural ‘egg-shaped’ looks at Marc Jacobs that embody exaggeration but with a modern polished twist. “We’ve done a few looks at Marc all tying into the overall ‘egg shape’ looks that are exaggerated at the crown.” The shades and tones were in the hands of Redken Global Colour Creative Director, Josh Wood. “I think we’ve coloured about 37 girls, with every single girl being a different colour. Although
some of the colours look like one colour, if you go up close, they look meshed with many colours layered, which keeps it from looking heavy and makes it more complex.” Josh was also in the hot seat at the Matty Bovan show where he pre-coloured models ready for Syd Hayes’s ‘old lady hair with a twist.’ “This look channels London Mayfair beehives from the 60s,” explains Syd. “I was inspired by Richard Avedon photos of beautifully dressed hair but we made it modern and cool with lots of great colour.”
ROME CALLING The Great Lengths Awards are back and this year’s ceremony, which takes place on Sunday 22 September, promises to be bigger than ever. Glenda Gilson steps into the role of MC and entries will be judged by a leading panel of beauty and industry experts including Fringe Magazine editor, Tara Corristine. Winners of the coveted awards in each of the seven categories will walk away with a trophy and an amazing trip to Rome to visit the Great Lengths production facility with five-star luxury accommodation for two people. Entries are now open and will close on Monday 1 July. greatlengthshair.co.uk
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StRONG StARt House of Colour got the year under way with their annual Salon of the Year awards and this year, their Lucan branch took home the coveted title and scooped Creative Salon of the Year; Best Retail and Customer Service award went to Charlestown while Abbey Street were delighted with Premier Salon and Assistant Team. But it was the Dream Team announcement that had everyone on their feet: Four trainees – Luis O Connor, Niamh Duffy, Daria Lalor and Nicky Smith – scored a 12-month scholarship to work alongside the Creative team along with an all-expenses trip to Salon International.
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Explore stocking SACHAJUAN in your salon by contacting National Beauty Distribution on (021) 234 0142 For more information email info@nationalbeauty.ie or visit www.sachajuan.ie
Shop Talk Hair: Junior Green; Photographer: Iulia David; MUA: Nibras makeup; Model: Vanessa David
ask THE EXPERT The founder of the supersuccessful afro hairdressing salon in Kensington, Junior Green is an award-winning hairdresser, amassing accolades such as Afro Hairdresser of the Year 2011 at the British Hairdressing Awards. He gives us his tips to styling and caring for afro hair. >> How does afro hair types?
colour and styling afro hair? Afro hair is prone to shrinkage when wet so when cutting it’s paramount to take this into consideration. When colouring relaxed afro hair, to avoid breakage refrain from using bleaching products. Semi-permanent colours are safer and kinder to the hair and have a less drying effect. Afro hair requires moisture so when styling refrain from using any alcohol based products. >>What products do you suggest for afro hair?
Moisturising products work well on afro hair such as creams, masks and serums. >>What at-home care do you suggest?
At home, the most important thing is to get into a regular routine of shampooing hair and conditioning on a weekly basis to maintain natural oils in the hair, and avoid the overuse of heated appliances as much as possible.
bloNd boMbsHEll Blond Absolu is KéRAsTAsE’s first ultraviolet care for lightened hair, addressing fibre care and tone perfection. The mix of blue and purple pigments cancel out unwanted undertones for lasting colour purity and act on the fibre to neutralise and remove brassy and yellow undertones. Standout ingredients include the restoring benefits of hyaluronic acid, along with naturally resistant edelweiss flower, for softer stronger hair. The range includes five at-home products, as well as the insalon Fusio-Dose Booster. Prices start from €27.20. Kerastase.co.uk
Having fewer cuticle layers, afro hair can sometimes be more fragile. Afro hair tends to have a curved follicle whereas Asian and European have straight follicles. The shape of the follicle determines how hair grows. Afro hair follicles are oval meaning the hair grows in a spiral like fashion whereas Asian and European have round follicles hence why the hair is mostly straight. Caucasian hair on average have more hair follicles than afro Caribbean hair, although afro hair may look fuller
consider when cutting,
Go bIG Summer spells big, bold hair and maximum texture is a given with the latest additions to the GoldWEll range: Dry Boost Dry Texture Spray (€16.50) gives tousled looks an extra portion of movement and definition, giving hair a light texture, soft grip and refreshed volume. The Salty Oil Spray in the Curly Twist range (€17) will spice up bouncy curls or natural waves to create a beautifully breezy texture. goldwell.co.uk
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differ from other hair
than Caucasian. >> What should you
TERM TIME Award-winning educator and hairdresser Katherine Sweeney of PREEN will share her skills and tips at a two-day Advanced Cutting course on 14 and 15 April. This course is designed to teach students how to break the rules of classic hairdressing to create modern progressive shapes. Katherine will also share her predictions for up and coming trends and how to confidently restyle clients. €550; preendublin.ie
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To stock Framar in your salon please contact the National Beauty Team info@nationalbeauty.ie | www.nationalbeauty.ie | 021 -234 0142
Shop Talk and of course the design and innovation. I was delighted to be appointed Hot Tools European Brand Ambassador. Both of the Russell Eaton salons are stocked with the tools and the team love using them. The CurlBar set is a favourite: it gives us the freedom to change between barrel sizes quickly. The new Evolve Styler is also a top choice. I have never used flat irons that achieve such smooth and quick results. The 24k gold titanium plates make them glide through the hair and produce such beautiful shine. You can tell that all the tools are developed with the stylist in mind. The CurlBar was designed because stylists can experience a lot of strain on the wrists and arms and the 90 degree angle of the CurlBar handle allows the arm and
“Hot Tools Professional were looking for someone to do the hair for a shoot for the CurlBar and I was intrigued. I was able to try all the tools in the range and was impressed by the quality, performance
wrist to sit in a more natural position, reducing discomfort. It also has a timer which makes it easier for stylists to know how long each section of hair has had while being able to keep up a flow of communication with the client. It is a brand that is great for consumers as well as all the functionalities are ideal for personal use so we have found them to be great for retail in the salons.” ✂ Russelleatonhair.com; nationalbeauty.ie
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He’s a multi-award winning stylist, UK and Ireland Technical Director of Wella Professionals, and Creative Director at Russell Eaton salons. RobERt EatoN reveals why he reaches for Hot Tools.
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Kao Salon Division Irish Launch Sam Burnett, KMS Global Ambassador
Cool cuts and crayola colours heralded KAo SAloN DIvISIoN’S
arrival to Ireland
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Black Amber creative team
suitably impressive venue for a stunning event: the Round Room in the Mansion House, Dublin, hosted Kao Salon Division’s expansion into Ireland. Over 200 hairdressers and salon owners were welcomed to the event in February by Cory Couts, Kao Salon Division Global President, before Mark Giannandrea, EMEA Commercial Vice President and John Moroney, Vice President and Creative Director took to the stage to share the Kao ethos, culture and vision. Roy and Liam Kennedy of Black Amber salon chain talked of their experience of successfully switching to Kao Salon Division’s colour brand, Goldwell, before their Creative Team’s model presentation took to the catwalk for an exciting parade of intense colour looks. KMS Global Ambassador Sam Burnett’s live model presentation focused on creating urban and raw street style and high style looks reflective of the KMS ethos and and latest 2019 campaign. Guests ended their evening at an exclusive afterhours event at 37 Dawson Street. ✂ Kaosalondivision. com; trinitysalonpartners.ie
17 Cory Couts
Irene Meikle
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Instastyle
a ring light, I think having one is an absolute must for every salon. To any salon owners out there who feel out of their depth with social media I’d advise them to get their team involved: the younger generation know more than us when it comes to Facebook and Instagram, so let them take the lead. It’s not an option in business to not have an online presence, if you don’t you’ll be left behind. Having social media has helped me to build my brand identity, attract staff and drive new business into the salon. On Instagram, my favourites are Sophia Hilton from not another salon (@hiltonsophia) and Tom Connell of Trevor Sorbie (@tommconnell) ✂ preendublin.ie
always understood that an online presence across all social media platforms would be vital to the success of the business. We started our Facebook page to build momentum for our launch day at least two months beforehand. I taught myself as I went along. Initially, I was the only person who would post but as time has gone on, I’ve relaxed this and several members of my team have access to our Facebook and Instagram. This helps to share the load and my younger team members tend to be more in touch with social media and regularly show me a thing or two! One thing that has improved the quality of our pictures is investing in
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Look to the young ones for social media savvy, says KathERINE SwEENEy, Founder and Director at Preen.
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Runway Report
TRENDING
Individual style was the order of play on the spring catwalks, from micro braids to hair accessories, go your own way.
MAIN photo: NIcholAs kIrkwood; x sAM MckNIGht INsEt: thoM browNE x Ghd
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ornamentation
nation
From feathered fringes at dries Van Noten to alice bands at prada, sequin skull caps at dior to thom browne’s watermelon slices, the catwalk was awash with ornamentation. Always a favourite at festival time, expect decorated up-dos to hit the mainstream this spring.
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Runway Report
dIoN
lEE x
Ghd
walking
Up-dos ricocheted from whimsical curls decorated with silk ribbons at ryan lo courtesy of sam Mcknight, to wanton up-dos finished with tree branches at olivier theyskens. Forget bed head: the diktat this season is artfully undone.
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MAIN photo ANd INsEt: olIvIEr thEyskENs x Ghd
chaos
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MAIN pHoTo ANd INSET: JErEMy ScoTT BluMArINE X SAM MckNIGHT
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laid-back
luxe
Tommy Hilfiger, Missoni and Blumarine all turned towards effortless easy elegance, highlighting the models’ own natural beauty. “Gone are the days where you create one look and roll it out on your models, it’s much more personal now. It’s about the model, their hair type and the collection,” says Eugene Souleiman who created the looks at Jeremy Scott.
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plaits Braids hit the catwalks in a big way with soft romantic halos at Roland Mouret. Micro braids created a tough edge at Dion Lee, and rope braids were teamed with a criss cross pony tail at Preen. Note: The tastemakers are steering clear of the fishtail, opting instead for the traditional plait as part of an overall look.
RoLA
ND Mo
uRET
x sAM
MckN IG
hT
perfect
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ERDEM x NARs
PREEN x GhD
Runway Report
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CaRla RosE McQuIllaN and NadINE QuINN
adopted a different approach when they opened The Space, and it’s yielding results.
ON STARTING OUT
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Nadine Quinn: One of the major reasons we wanted to run our own business was because we saw so much in traditional salons that we would do differently, with a different culture and goals. We felt like the industry wasn’t being pushed in the way that it could. Carla Rose McQuillan: It wasn’t showing the best that these women had. Obviously hairdressing is dominated by women, and they have endless potential, their multi-tasking skills alone are unreal, and we both felt that hairdressers were being ‘dumbed down’ rather than lifted up. We wanted hairdressers to be looked at as the experts as well as the creatives, because we’re a real mix. It’s an industry of science and artistic flair – you don’t see that in many industries. NQ: We identified the attributes that so many female hairdressers had – to understand finance, to see yourself as a business, participate in a team and also have really high emotional intelligence, really good communication skills to interact with all walks of life, and be creative with excellent visual skills, and understand the science of using colour to suit each individual. All parts of their brains need to be on at all times. Because it’s unpredictable, they need to be reactive, be
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solution-oriented, work at a fast pace, roll with the punches: these women are to be admired, and they weren’t. CMcQ: The standards – minimum wage, worked to the bone, no breaks. It’s a lifestyle business and there are small margins but we saw so many ways that we could make it nicer. The industry needed a shake up. In Ireland, we have chains with up to 70 salons and that dominates how the industry operates and people think that sets the standard whereas we thought, it shouldn’t be like that. NQ: And if we are expecting them to wear all these hats, they need to be supported and educated. We asked ourselves how do we raise emotional intelligence, impart more colour knowledge, encourage more visual skills, improve their creativity, teach them to manage their finances and see themselves as a business and the salon as a collective business and how they participate in that collective. It was about reinforcing and capitalising on the attributes they already had, not just using them on a gut level and equipping them to deliver all those elements.
GeN New P H o T o G R a P H s
B Y
a l
H I G G I N s
Cover Stars
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Carla Rose McQuillan, left, and Nadine Quinn
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need to empower women. the ratio
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of men to women should be reflected in the top one per cent.
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Cover Stars CMcQ: We aren’t afraid of growing them. We had so much potential when we were employees but we felt there was a fear around growing us. Yes, our super-star stylist might leave in five years, but she has still given us five years. You celebrate them if they go on to be the next Guido – I’m delighted I got to be on your journey. NQ: You make it so lucrative, so enjoyable a space that they don’t have any urge to leave. Often you leave because things are not quite right or you feel stunted. We are working to create an environment where people don’t feel like that and if they do have any urge or calling to go out on their own, we’ll support them because that’s what we did.
ON WOMEN IN BUSINESS
ON MANAGEMENT STYLE
NQ: Because we’ve been so tactical in building
the team, we have a team of the most beautiful humans you could meet. They are hard working with a crazy level of work ethic, with a commitment to The Space and to each other. Yes, there are moments of competition or comparison but it is few and far between and it’s quickly and easily dealt with, with complete honesty. CMcQ: And empathy – you try and put yourself in their shoes. You remind them that maybe it was a bad day. NQ: No-one ever has an intent, it comes down to communication and misinterpretation. Examples help: this is what was said and how it was delivered. This is how it could have been said and delivered. If you could go back would you chose to say that, and often the answer is no. CMcQ: We met when we were 17 and Nadine was reading The Secret and she kept me up until six in the morning talking about it. That snowballed onto the next book, and the next, this seminar and that. Although we haven’t had formal training, we have explored this level of communication. Nadine sought it out, brought it to me and after a while I said, let’s do it. NQ: When we say we saw things that were wrong, this is what we mean: people not being equipped to be managers, people not understanding human
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CMcQ: It is a female-dominated industry but the top one per cent is men and I can’t really wrap my head around that, it doesn’t make sense to me. I think it’s important that women get back into the workplace (after having children) even to some extent, and that employers are flexible. But there is an industry to cater to. You can’t say, I want to work Monday 10-1, because the demand isn’t there. The flexibility has to go both ways. Most of our girls have kids. If it’s the case here, then it’s the case in other salons and there has to be change and that next generation of women will get to the top. I also think women clients love men, they love men telling them they are beautiful. I think that’s why male hairdressers succeed with less talent. We have experienced that ten times over that our male counterparts are not as skilled working alongside us, but they have charisma. NQ: Woman to woman, particularly stranger to stranger, there is an underlying sense of competition, a sense of comparison. We are quicker to judge or make assumptions, so there are more barriers there. When it’s a man and a woman, there’s a little more openness and a quicker friendship and connection is built. There’s more trust that a recommendation from a man is for their improvement. That goes layers deep. CMcQ: That won’t go down well with everyone, but we’ve seen it happen. And that’s not to take away from men who are skilled beyond belief. NQ: Even taking ourselves, as established hairdressers and salon owners, experienced from
every angle of the industry, I could more quickly name ten male hairdressers and I’d struggle to name ten female. CMcQ: Women need to empower women. The ratio of men to women should be reflected in the top one per cent. That make sense to me. The male ego is gigantic. The female ego is more humble. NQ: There is a male bravado, that confidence. Women are at grafter level, we are focussing on the grind. The masculine elements allow them to fake it til they make it. CMcQ: A female boss is seen as a ball-buster and a male boss is a go-getter. You go too aggressive as a woman and no one will deal with you. The men are intimidated. They don’t have the same emotional intelligence. We love men! It might sound like we don’t.
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behaviour. It was stick and carrot leadership rather than human development. For ten years, I thought, this is not how it should be done, this isn’t how you get the best out of people, how people want to work, thrive or grow. Now that we’ve implemented it, we have clear evidence, undeniable evidence that our approach works. If industries don’t learn that, they will fall to the wayside because the generations that are coming up expect that.
ON WORKING MOTHERS
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NQ: From your teenage years, you’re treated as a ticking time bomb. If you’re out sick once in hairdressing, the rumour is you’re pregnant. There’s a thinking that you have a shelf life. I have had straight from a CEO’s mouth, ‘Nadine, you are the best person for the job, but there’s travel and commitment and I’m reluctant to choose you because you have a daughter.’ I replied that he had a daughter, that we were in the exact same circumstance as parents of one, and it dawned on me that when his daughter was sick, it was up to his wife: ‘I’m off, you deal, see you later’. I had created an environment with my partner that when my child was sick, we look at what makes sense. Parenthood is a partnership with equal roles and equal responsibility. Women have become accustomed to it all being on us all the time. We are used to making the sacrifice and taking the steps back. That’s what we need to address. CMcQ: The idea that now that you’re a mother you’re not as reliable or predictable is bullshit. Often when women become mothers, more than ever they have a need to succeed: ‘it’s not just about me anymore, I’ve mouths to feed.’ They become harder workers and their ability to multitask is unfathomable. We have to create a space for all different kinds of mothers, including those who want to excel and be the provider, and for the mums who want a balance of both.
ON STAYING RESILIENT
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CMcQ: We have each other. We have another business in addition to The Space, and The Space demands so much of us, we have 28 staff and we’re perfectionists. We have our hand in
HR, in accounts, in marketing, in what perks we offer and the upgrading of the website. There are things coming up all the time. Yesterday we gave a 12-hour day to meetings and we did the same last week. And we are trying to keep our relationships and maybe have time to eat and wash and wouldn’t it be gorgeous to do a yoga class! CMcQ: Whenever one person is up and the other is down, you try to even out the balance. You’re the yin to the yang. NQ: It’s reminding each other why we are doing it, this is the goal and shifting our focus to that. Unless you’ve done it, it’s hard to encapsulate what it is to be a business owner. The guilt is huge: I feel so responsible. I feel responsible for Carla, I feel responsible for every soul that works in the company and then I feel responsible for not nourishing myself as I could, or for not being the mommy that I could be, for not showing up as a partner. The guilt comes from every angle, and it’s just reminding yourself to keep yourself afloat. CMcQ: When you’re closer to the right balance for you, that’s what keeps you resilient, when you are feeding your business and you’re feeding your soul. Nadine’s my best friend, girls in the salon are my friends from before, so we’re lucky that even when there is so much on, we have our pals helping out and taking the load. Sometimes all you need is that little bit of acknowledgement and appreciation, it spurs you on. NQ: I don’t think Nadine solely running The Space would have worked… CMcQ: And neither would Carla. We are intrigued by each other, we bring out enough in each other without compromising each other. NQ: We are each other’s best advocates and also each other’s biggest challengers. CMcQ: The amount you grow from that... the pace at which we have grown, when we opened the door to the business, there were four of us. It has snowballed so quickly. We always knew we would curate a brand that we would be proud of but we were ready for it to be a slower burn. NQ: We knew innately what we wanted to create, and it’s not complete and never will be, but we’ve stayed very true to ourselves and each other and we’re reaping the rewards. It’s so good. ✂
Cover Stars
we knew innately what we wanted to and it’s not complete and it never will be, but we’ve stayed true FRINGE MAGAZINE
to ourselves and each other and we’re reaping the rewards.
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meet the mentor
A rapid-fire round with session stylist, LukE BENsoN
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Luke Benson’s salon career started at D&J Ambrose where he earned countless accolades including a win at Wella TrendVision and the prestigious title of London Hairdresser of the Year. Now a session stylist, Luke works across editorial, campaigns and red-carpet work numbering Hugo Boss, Hackett, Daisy Lowe, Anna Friel and Look magazine amongst his clients, and more recently was the poster boy for ghd’s Long Live the Queens campaign. Luke is a mentor for the Fellowship for British Hairdressing, guiding the Project X team through a shoot and sharing his session and social media advice with the emerging talent. Combining exceptional technical skill with an eye for London trends, he was named as one of the ghd Creative Artists which sees him shoot campaigns for the brand and educate and mentor a team of hairdressers through their own photoshoot.
In Profile From Luke’s MAKE Magazine editorial
or that you’ve reached the top. Keep working, keep training, keep testing and keep pushing forward.
Smartest career move?
Taking the plunge to work for myself and do session/education full time. And entering for London Hairdresser of the Year at the British Hairdressing Awards – which I won!
What’s in your kit bag?
I swear by my full kit of ghd hot tools, including the curve range of wands and the ghd Platinum+ styler. I also use Japanese pins and grips, lots of elastic, about six favourite styling products, my scissor kit and all my combs and brushes. Over the years I’ve learnt to cut my kit down to just my favourites, so I don’t have unnecessary weight when travelling.
One thing I never say to clients…. I don’t like your
current haircut or colour. One thing I always say to clients… What do you
like and what don’t you like about your current hairstyle/colour? Where do you look for inspiration? I’m
surrounded by it because I work with so many creatives and stylists who are often working six months ahead. That’s great because it means I have to always be looking forward, too. Pinterest, social media and the work of peers are also great places to be inspired. What trend are you happy to see the back of? Dip-dye! What trend are you loving for SS19? Short
fringes.
grounding and someone to inspire them – and a drive to work hard! Favourite hair hack? You need to know your products and tools inside out, so that you do quick, cool styling From the under pressure and in any award-winning black and white situation. Favourite editorial photo shoot? I would
What one thing should every hair professional do to stay ahead?
Never stop learning and think that you’re finished,
have to pick two shots from my award-winning London Hairdresser of the Year 2016 collection, or an image from my MAKE magazine editorial.
collection
inspired by different eras and the iconic cuts that defined them. I chose key looks from years gone by – a mullet, a pageboy, the shag, a 90s crop – and gave them a modern finish. There were even elements of Geisha styling. All of the images were sketched out and planned way in advance; I knew what I wanted to see as a finished image before I even began – I was living and breathing the collection. I knew from my research that no-one had won London Hairdresser of the Year with a black and white collection for about six years, which made me wonder if colour was a winning formula or if it meant it was time for a change. I decided to stick to my own personal aesthetic and vision for the shoot, and do it in sepia. Even though we shot this way, I still wanted to define elements of colour within the shoot, and worked a lot with shadows to create the dimensions. As we were using professional models, colour wasn’t always an option, so we used a lot of water spray to create areas of density in the hair and recreate the feel of colour. ✂ @lukebensonhair
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What trait do all successful hair professionals have in common? Good
What inspired your London Hairdresser of the Year 2016 collection? My look was
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You are the artist Pulp Riot is the paint. This mix by @jaywesleyolson
@pulpriotireland
www.pulpriot.ie
To use Pulp Riot in your salon contact National Beauty Distribution 021 234 0142 info@nationalbeauty.ie
In The Chair There’s an exciting year in store for RoIsIN HyNEs of Sarah Mason Professional. In reality I’ve had a
passion for hair since I was a child but it wasn’t until my late 20s that I realised that the job I had wasn’t for me so I quit and decided to chase my dream of becoming a hairdresser
industry influencers has to be Eugene Souleiman: he’s always evolving, he’s a true visionary and someone who inspires and sets trends. Some of his work from fashion weeks is truly outside of the box thinking.
Colour chameleon
I really admire Joanne O’Neill, she’s a very diverse artist, one day you could see her doing stunning colour work on her social media or the next, her avantgarde work is on the front cover of a global magazine.
Cool collabs I
Winner’s circle 2018 has been a career-
the team at Sarah Mason Professional. I haven’t had a massive amount of experience behind the lenses of a camera yet and it is something I want to work on this year, capturing amazing images.
changing year for me: it began with a goal to enter the Irish Hairdressing Championship and I won Connacht Hairdresser of the year. My two most stand-out moments from 2018 have to be that I am the only Irish person to secure a place on Wella’s Generation Now team, and winning bronze at the TrendVision awards. It was such an amazing experience that I will never forget.
A cut above Last year I took up a five-day cutting course in Vidal Sassoon in London and it really help to elevate my daily work in the salon and bring it to new level. It also gave me the confidence to think about my competition cutting work and how to stand out on the competition floor. Industry icon Hands down one of the key
London calling 2019 is shaping up to be another exciting year: I’ll be working in London with my Generation Now teammates on lots of shows and events that I’m really looking forward to… watch this space! ✂
Future focus There are lots of exciting plans for
Role model I’m lucky
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that I get to work with Sarah Mason, watching her run a successful business whilst educating for Wella in Ireland and the UK. She makes me believe that hard work always pays off.
spent a week in the Manchester Wella Studios and was lucky enough to work with Jake Unger from Hob, Jayson Gray and Claire Chell. I follow them on Instagram for inspiration and to keep an eye on new hair trends. These guys don’t follow trends they set, them and to have had the opportunity to work with these amazing artists for a week was really a dream come true for me.
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Interiors
BLUE
Hair Café opened in Thundercut
PHOTOGRAPHS: GYUAL BATORI
e moved in just over six months ago, now. The unit is absolutely huge 144 square meters to be exact - with really high ceilings that give the illusion of more space. Nothing had been here before so it was a blank canvas. I worked with our Style Director, Steve Kutcher, and our Manager Sarah Maher to come up with the concept, industrial chic: the unit was a concrete shell with exposed pipes, exposed brickwork and two massive concrete columns. We decided to make features of these aspects of the building rather than cover them up, and it worked out amazingly. We chose the pop of blue for a couple of reasons. The rest of the salon is quite neutral with grey walls and ceilings, so it’s a nice contrast. We wanted the salon to represent Earth with lots of greenery, plants and our massive 3D moss wall that looks like a forest. The blue represents the sky, the rivers, the ocean. Also, it’s quite similar to the Kevin Murphy Repair.Me Rinse bottle so we knew it would be a good match. We get so many comments about the sofa and the lights. The sofa is from EZ Living Furniture and the lights are from Bright Lights.
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Alley, Smithfield, Dublin 7 last year. We spoke to director anita DonogHoe about bringing her vision to life.
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Interiors
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We have a designated waiting area, barber corner, colour/basin area which includes our extremely popular massage chairs. Then our main section has eight chairs. We are expanding due to demand so will have an extra four sections very soon. Our plants and retail stands help to define the areas really well. We did some market research and found that a lot of men find it quite daunting to walk into a hairdressers full of women. We wanted the barber corner to be a designated area especially for the guys: It has its own proper reclining barber chair and some really cool artwork on the wall. It’s proving to be extremely popular among the hipster guys in Smithfield. There were no major upsets during the fit-out, a couple of delays here and there. For instance, the builder booked a guy to come in and hang the wallpaper for our feature wall, but at that point we still hadn’t found the perfect wallpaper, so it had to be pushed out another two weeks. It was definitely worth it in the end as our feature 3D moss wall is a big talking point, every client comments on how awesome it is. ✂ @haircafesmithfield
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Lightbulb Moment The owner of five salons, BEN GaRRy believes ongoing education is the key to success. Switch it up Hairdressing is an ever-evolving
industry which keeps day-to-day work exciting, constantly learning new trends and passing these onto our clients.
Bridal party I have a passion for wedding hair: to be a part of a bride’s big day, ensuring they feel and look their best is amazing. The feeling of helping a bridal party prepare for their special day is very hard to beat.
Work it out We always look for a passion for
hairdressing within the candidate when hiring: it’s half the battle if they are willing to work hard and soak up all education and training on offer. We look for enthusiasm and ability to work on their own initiative. Recruiting is the part of the business we struggle with most, finding the correct staff with the dedication is a real struggle. In training
We keep staff motivated with ongoing training both in salon and in academies throughout the country, regardless of the level they are at. We also offer staff incentives for retail sales and have stylist and trainee of the year awards each Christmas. School days We offer new staff joining
Open day The highlights of my career definitely
include opening each salon. I have five salons now and each time I decide to open another, I still get great excitement and a sense of achievement. In reverse The changes I would like to see in
salons is a reversal in the VAT increase. The 9 per cent VAT rate was brought in to help struggling salons keep going which I feel it did. Now this has increased which will have a negative impact on salons. ✂ bengarryhairdressing.ie
Trend watch We feel that keeping clients up to date on current trends, explaining the products we used and how to use at home encourages them to come back. We ensure their journey throughout the salon from check-in to paying is a pleasant and relaxing experience definitely helps with repeat business.
learn. We pride ourselves on constant education - I feel it needs to be ongoing regardless of where you are at in your hairdressing career as hair changes from season to season.
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our brand a full education package. We are constantly adding different hair services to offer something different from our competitors which helps staff as they are always excited to learn and offer new services. We also offer staff incentives, from weekends away to gift vouchers as rewards.
Up-skilling There is always something new to
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To stock Invisibobble in your salon please contact the National Beauty Team info@nationalbeauty.ie | www.nationalbeauty.ie | 021 234 0142
Disruptor
Maven Hair Studio is a co-working space for hair and beauty creatives. We speak to founder MicHelle GriMeS
about creating a space that worked for her.
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team
spirit
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It’s a coworking space, a co-op. It’s a place where you can rent a space as you need it. It allows you to look after your clients and still do other things that interest you, whether it’s family time, editorial work, weddings or education. It’s hot-desking for hair. I worked in traditional salon setups for many years. I trained in Hession in Drumcondra under Frank Hession who was a master at upstyling. It was a really nice space to train with amazing education and I had a great few years there. When I left to work in other salons, upstyling wasn’t as important, it wasn’t prioritised. I worked in Lunatic Fringe in Grafton Street and clients were asking me to do their weddings and it became harder and harder to be able to do that. Salons can’t afford to have their top stylists head off for the day to do weddings because you are bringing so much money in. I went to a smaller salon that allowed me to manage my own hours but when I returned to work after my first child, I realised I wanted more. Friends from Lunatic Fringe had begun
having kids and I saw how the traditional salon didn’t work for them: rushing in after doing drop offs, working Saturdays. Many of the top women hair stylists, after a few years of trying to make it work, ended up leaving and working from home. I thought, why can’t you have a creative career and be a mother? I wanted both. I had to create that balance for me and other women who want the same thing, and I began looking for a premises. Now, I work a four-day week and I alternate my Saturdays and Sundays. My children play GAA at the weekends, so I can be a part of that. Clients love coming in on a Sunday – they come and have their hair done and then go for brunch. For many, it’s an easier day than Saturday when there are lots of activities on. During the summer, I take extra days off. It’s the flexibility it offers. When I started this way of working, I was worried that people would just use the space and there wouldn’t be that team element, that connection between people. What I have found is you can only work in this space if you are at the top of your game because you have to have a
Disruptor
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clientele that is going to pay your rent for you every week. What it has attracted are really passionate people who are very into education: they share what products they are using, what styles they’ve learned, what techniques they prefer. There are 11 people sharing the space – nine stylists and two make-up artists – and we are all interested in what the others are doing because we all come from different backgrounds. There’s a great buzz in the place, real camaraderie, there are lots of collaborations going on between us. There’s an extension expert and during the week, she taught one of the guys how to do it and he gave her a balayage class. We have a global blond expert, an amazing upstyler, and we have a few that have won the Wella Colour trophy. It’s a lovely hub where people are sharing skills to help one another and learning themselves. There are eight stations and a makeup counter over two rooms. It’s very transparent model: there is a set fee for the chair, I don’t take any commission. They are all self-employed and they set their own prices. You can book them through the schedule app and they take payments through their own SumUp card readers. I don’t handle money from anyone, it’s way too much work for me. You can pay a daily rate for two, three or four days or book in for a week, giving you 24-hour access. This allows them to work whenever they want. If they want an extra day, they have to check the roster to see if there is a space free. They have the choice to work whatever days they want. There are a lot of us that do editorial work, and one guy works back to back for seven days and then takes four days off to see his boyfriend in London. It was just me initially and Kristen, a stylist from the States. There was a fear in Ireland at the time about going out on your own, but in the five years that we have been open, I haven’t lost one person. Everyone has stuck with the model. Going out on your own isn’t for everyone: a huge percentage of hairdressers like having someone booking their appointments, paying their tax, because there is a lot of work involved in being self-employed. I think traditional salons are essential to the industry as they offer training and competitions, and they are perfect for the majority of stylists. This is to facilitate those who need flexibility and freedom. ✂ hairmaven.ie
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the
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RESISTANcE Overworked, underpaid and overwhelmed? Chances are you may be saying yes when you want, and need, to say no. AbbIE HEAdoN reveals why we find it so hard to say no, and how to change. WHY do WE FINd IT So HARd To SAY WHAT WE MEAN?
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Finding it hard to say no can be part of a broader hesitancy about expressing the full range of our emotions with honesty and openness. Most of us carry a certain amount of emotional baggage, often stemming from our early childhood experiences, and this affects the way we form attachments with other people. Psychologists frequently divide attachment styles into three broad definitions:
>>ANXIoUS: An anxious attachment style is
common in people whose early needs were met unpredictably. Anxious people may be so focused on being accepted by others that they deprioritise their own needs and lose confidence in their own choices. Instead of saying no clearly, they may find refuge in ‘I don’t mind – what would you prefer?’, which ends up putting a lot of strain on a relationship. >>AVoIdANT: Avoidant people learned from an early age that others cannot be trusted and may hurt
Book Extract
IS SAYING NO HARDER FOR WOMEN?
VISUAlISE
a successful ËËNOÁÁ
Prepare yourself for a successful ‘no’ by using this simple visualisation process. >> Imagine yourself in a place where you feel happy and calm. It could be somewhere you know well or an imaginary landscape >> Take a few deep, calming breaths and clear your mind of other thoughts and worries >> Now think about the case you’re going to make: go into some detail here and say your reasons out loud. By doing this, you will convince yourself, as well as practise stating your reasons calmly. You can write down ideas if it helps you to marshal your thoughts >> Sitting or standing with a straight back and your shoulders relaxed, picture yourself answering the other person’s statements in an even, confident tone. >> Finally, see yourself walking away from the conversation with the outcome you desired. Picturing yourself playing an active, assured role before you begin a tricky conversation will help you come out of it knowing that you’ve kept calm and achieved your aims
TUNE OUT THE CRITICS
‘I think it’s best if we all just try to get along’ Yes, getting along with each other is great, but if someone tells you to sacrifice your opinion in favour of general harmony, their own motivation is unlikely to be very positive. By staying calm and treating others with respect when you express disagreement, you’ll come out of the conversation without ending or even damaging your relationships with the people around you.
‘Let’s have a bit more of positivity, shall we?’ Sometimes saying no is actually the positive choice. If someone is proposing a course of action that is risky, poorly thought out, in bad taste, or just plain wrong, according to your understanding, then saying no is the best thing for you to do. It may result in a more positive outcome for everyone than if you’d gone along with the general consensus. Extract from The Power of No: Take Back Control and Find Time For You by Abbie Headon (Ilex Press, approx €10) ✂
In a word: yes. Although it can be hard for anyone of any gender to say no, women as a group face an extra challenge. Throughout childhood, girls are praised for playing nicely and getting on well with one another, while boys receive more praise for winning than for being kind and gentle. Girls who express strong opinions – including saying no – are often criticised for being bossy or stroppy, words that are rarely applied to boys. When we become adults, the patterns we learned in childhood remain influential. Women
often struggle to have their ‘noes’ heard and understood, facing problems such as being talked over in meetings and told they’re getting emotional if they express any form of disagreement. In contrast, men who say no are often praised for being strong and ‘taking no prisoners’. For women, saying no carries the risk of being seen as overly negative; but if we’re going to achieve our goals, all of us need to build up our strength and resilience, and bring our ‘no’ power into our daily lives.
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them. People with avoidant attachment styles are unwilling to risk being vulnerable in front of others, and learn to suppress their ‘noes’ instead of seeking help and support when they need it. >>SECURE: People with a secure attachment style are able to trust others and can express intimacy without feeling stressed or insecure. In a trusting relationship, both partners are able to say and receive the word ‘no’ without endangering their long-term connection. They respect each other’s autonomy, and give each other the space they need to grow and thrive. It isn’t just our early years that influence us, but also the patterns of behaviour we pick up from other people throughout our lives, including friends and partners. By analysing our own attachment style we can approach conversations with more selfawareness. This will enable our transactions to be calmer and more productive, even when they’re difficult and involver saying no.
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The Final Cut The youngest stylist to enter the BHA Hall of Fame, ShaNE BENNETT on the return of the bob and accidental fringes. Young gun You could say hairdressing runs in
the family with both my cousin and auntie in the industry. I loved having my hair cut and styled and I knew at 14 that this was the career for me. The good, the bad… My favourite trend when it comes to cuts has to be a return to bobs and simple beautiful lines. Our new collection showcased colour blocking with strong panels of colour placement used to create a statement using precision and skill. My least favourite trend is some of the Balayage techniques where the lines haven’t been softened. Runway ready Fashion inspires me, I think hair and fashion go hand and hand. I love seeing the new catwalk trends from designers like Gucci and Dior on social media.
wrong scissors to slice into the corner of a fringe. I thought I had lifted my texturising scissors and I cut a large chunk from the corner of the fringe. The client ended up with a micro fringe. She loved it in the end and is still a client. Counting the wins I’ve had so many career highlights, from opening my salon and celebrating 18 years of our brand; winning the BHA Northern Ireland hairdresser of the year three times; becoming the youngest stylist to enter the BHA Hall of Fame, and most recently, mentoring my team to winning BHA Artistic Team of the Year. On course Asked if would have done anything my in my career different I would say not really. There are always things we could have done better but on the whole it’s been a good journey.
Pros and cons There are many positive moves
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within the industry, from our skill level and training opportunities to improved product technology in colour, styling and tools, there’s even training online. I think it’s very exciting times. The negatives are that we are finding it difficult to recruit trainees. With clients I feel their expectations have changed with the introduction of social media and what can and can’t be achieved in one salon visit. Gamechanger I would like to see more incentives at school leaving level again, showing what an amazing career you can have as a hairdresser and what an important job it is, as it changes how people feel. Deep cut My
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worst hair mistake was lifting the
The influencers There are so many amazing
people out there who influence me. I look to the world of session styling and my dear friend Sharon Blain. Mr Motivator Two things motivate me:
The first is my amazing team, and the second is travel. I love to see what is happening in different countries, from customer service to fashion, lifestyle and interiors. And when I’m focused I’m motivated. Future facing Our
plans for 2019 are our new collection. We have a new course which we delivering at the Goldwell Academy in London, and to expand and develop our evergrowing team. And hopefully travel to a few countries I haven’t yet seen. ✂ shanebennett.co.uk
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For more information on KEVIN.MURPHY please contact the friendly team at National Beauty (021) 234 0142 info@nationalbeauty.ie