IRELAND’S ONLY SALON STYLIST MAGAZINE
ISSUE 8 | Volume 2 Winter €9.50
REvEALED! ThE fRINGE MAGAZINE AwARD wINNERS!
Killer
nixers pAUL hESSION ON ThE SIDE GIG ThAT’S SINkING SALONS
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NEW MOTHER OF PEA RL COLOUR LIMITED EDITION
Re-engineered for professionals. Pulse-width modulation Air Multiplier™ technology
Enables precise control of heating element.
Annular element construction Annular double-stack heating element allows a compact barrel without compromising heat generation.
Re-engineered Professional concentrator
The volume of the air drawn in is amplified by three times, producing a high-pressure, high-velocity jet of air.
Wider and thinner for precision styling, with cool grip edges.
LED indicators Clearly shows selected settings and filter cleaning prompt.
Increased magnetic strength 2x stronger magnetic attachments, for secure 360° hold.1
Protects hair from extreme heat damage
Compared to consumer model.
1
Intelligent heat control measures air temperature 20 times a second.
Airflow exit
Precise settings 3 speed settings and 4 heat settings, including cool shot.
Negative ions
Fast drying Dyson digital motor V9 spins at up to 110,000rpm.
Aperture design reduces air rush noise. Constructed from liquid crystal polymer to ensure thermal stability.
Charged particles in the air reduce static in the hair.
Acoustically tuned One inaudible frequency. Quiet Mark accredited. Vibration sound reduction mount A rubber isolation mount prevents the motor from vibrating against the inside of the handle, reducing the transfer of noise between the motor and the case.
Light in the hand The 27mm diameter motor is uniquely positioned in the handle, for balance. Improved filter, built for salons Magnetic, removable and washable, with filter cleaning brush.
Longer cable 3.3 metres, for freer movement.
The new Professional edition Only at dyson.com/stylist #dysonprohair
Contents
23 6
Shop talk
New launches and top trends
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21
39
INStaGRam INSIdER
Creator of Pulp Riot colour, Alexis Thurston
haNdIwoRk
The tools the experts choose StylING It
Meet the Airwrap styler, Dyson’s latest launch
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REvEalEd!
Introducing the Fringe Magazine Awards 2018 winners
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Black amBER XGoldwEll
16
wElla
Molly Goddard’s sleek side line
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houSE oF colouR
The latest collection from the Dublin salon chain
Meet the winners
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28
duBlIN dyNamo
Paul Hession has concerns about the new apprenticeship scheme
32
Eco waRRIoR
Oi Organic salon share their environmental ethos
34
REpRoGRammEd
Salon coach David Barnett’s story of success
COVER PHOTOGRAPH: Al HIGGINs
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Soho’s Salon 64 is an opulent dream
45
lIGhtBulB momENt
Tamar Chambers is upskilling online
46
moNEy mattERS
Funding advice from business expert and entrepreneur, Carl Reader
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thE FINal cut
NEw NEtwoRkS
An evening of insights and inspiration at the Spark event
of The Edge Hair Design loNdoN luXE
pRoFESSIoNalS
tRENdvISIoN awaRdS
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37
IN thE chaIR
Meet Callum O’Donovan
A new colour range hits the salon chain
GEt thE look
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23
Robert Eaton on the positives of social media
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Editor’s Letter It’s the most wonderful time of the year! Love it or loathe it, Christmas is coming, and have we got a treat-filled issue for you! Paul Hession cut to the heart of the IRELAND’S ONLY SALON STYLIST MAGAZINE
ISSUE 8 i C\YbZR DV[aR_ â‚Ź& "
REvEALED! ThE fRINGE MAGAZINE AwARD wINNERS!
Killer
nixers pAUL hESSION ON ThE SIDE GIG ThAT’S SINkING SALONS
EDITOR Tara Corristine
Kieran Walsh Will McCreevey ART DIRECTOR
Susan Conley CONTRIBuTORS
David Barnett Carl Reader
@fringemagazine.ie
FRINGE MAGAZINE
PuBlISHERS
matter at our cover shoot. Turn to page 28 to read his thoughts on the apprentice scheme and how to create customer loyalty in a crowded market. One salon excelling at differentiating their offering is Oi Organic Italian Hairdressing in Dalkey, Co Dublin. Their environmental approach to hairdressing is putting them ahead of the curve (page 32). From Limerick to California, salon coach David Barnett shares his journey to the top of the industry in our feature on page 34, and if a luxe interiors upgrade is on your lust list this year then turn to page 39 for a tour of Salon 64, the SoHo salon that is a masterclass in opulence. Looking for some seasonal inspiration? House of Colour’s latest collection (page 24) is sure to spark your creativity, while John Frieda’s sleek side parting could be a Christmas hit (page 23). Social media is helping pave the way to success according to those in the know: Pulp Riot’s Alexis Thurston tells us how Instagram helped her salon to connect with the right kind of clients (page 21), while Tamar Chambers is updating her SEO skills (page 45). Staying up to speed on tool innovations is essential and we fill you in on Dyson’s new Airwrap styler (page 8), while left-handed cutting educator, Ben Brown, reveals his top pick on page 7. Christmas has come early to the winners of the first ever Fringe Magazine Awards 2018! We are delighted to champion the Irish hair industry’s innovators and grafters, business owners and influencers. Turn to page 11 as we reveal our wonderful winners. Sincere thanks to all of those who got in touch, contributed to and advertised in Fringe Magazine, and to our fantastic readers we’ll be bringing you more advice, expertise and insights in 2019. Wishing you a busy, buzzing Christmas, see you in the new year,
@fringemag_ie @fringemagazine_ie
www.fringemagazine.ie
For advertising queries, please email Tara@fringehq.com or call 021 201 9681
ps
Check us out on social media for news, reviews and competitions. Got a question, suggestion or would like to see a topic covered? Drop me a line at Tara@FringeHQ.com
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ShakE It oFF Day-old hair may need more that a shake of dry shampoo and if your clients have a litany of festive soirées this Christmas, tell them about Number One, the new hair perfume from Great Lengths. Enriched with peony and lime blossom extract and fortified with keratin, it will nourish hair while offering UV protection and it’s a clever way to freshen hair for those desk to disco nights. €28.91, greatlengthshair.ie Ed’S FavE Shout out to Sachajuan’s Ocean Mist spray which gives my short hair texture with a little root lift – just how I like it. Plus, it, along with the shampoo and conditioner in the range, smell sublime. Prices start from a reasonable €11. nationalbeauty.ie
FRINGE MAGAZINE
daIly doSE If you have clients that are concerned about hair loss, remind them to avoid excess heat, leave hair loose and gently massage the scalp to increase blood flow. Supplements can also help and Phytophanère from Phyto visibly improves the quality of the hair, and as an added extra, it strengthens nails and gives skin a glowy boost, too. @phytoireland
P lastic FaNTaSTIC
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If you’re considering going out on your own or expanding your enterprise, Microfinance Ireland may be able to help with funding. A not-for-profit lender, they provide business loans up to €25,000 to small firms having difficulty accessing finance through commercial lending providers. You must have fewer than 10 full-time employees, annual turnover of less than €2 million and be creating or sustaining a minimum of one full-time job. See microfinanceireland.ie for more.
hair: The International Creative Team led by Mark Hayes; Make-up: Daniel Kolaric; Photographer: Benjamin Vnuk
New year, New aDVeNTUre
The Plastic collection from Sassoon takes inspiration from Fiorucci, a store on New York’s East 59th Street with day-glo fabrics, leopard-print T-shirts, kitsch logos and spray-on stretch denim. Margaux Hemingway wore their gold cowboy boots, Cher splashed thousands of dollars on glittering body-suits. Plastic celebrates the Sassoon veil technique of diffusing panels of colour throughout the hair. The classic technique is flipped with neutral veils across the surface of the hair with brighter tones beneath that diffuse through the outer layer.
Shop Talk
Ever wondered what tools the experts turn to? For owner of Bbeducation and left-handed cutting educator, BEN BRowN, Akito Scissors are a refined choice.
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“Buying scissors from Akito is like having a suit from Savile Row, they have a passion for their craft and are clear experts. I have been using their scissors for three years, not only because of the quality of the product but also because of the quality of the people who have built it. They care more about you having the right scissor than selling to you: they have so much patience and care in how they help you decide which pair of scissors is correct for you, and they also teach you how to look after your scissors. There are no stupid questions with them. “My favourite scissor is the F-2 at 5 inch: it is by far the best all-round scissor I have ever used. The tips are so fine that you can refine a line with real detail. It’s semi convex (slightly rounded blade) making it a very robust precision tool, I can slice and scissor over comb with them even at 5 inch.” ✂ bbeducationuk. co.uk; akitoscissors.com
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Hot on the heels of the Dyson Supersonic comes the AIRwRAp styler, a new way to curl, wave and smooth hair.
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New Wave
T 8
he disruptors at Dyson are back. Not content with shaking up the salon world with the release of the Supersonic, they are keen to transform the at-home experience too, with the new Dyson Airwrap styler, a styling tool engineered to create curls, waves and smooth blow-dries without using extreme heat. After building state-of-the-art hair laboratories, Dyson engineers and hair scientists spent more than six years testing and researching hair types and styling habits around the world. They found that some clients wanted hair with body and movement, while others sought smooth, frizz-free hair with volume. The Dyson Airwrap styler uses jets of air to create voluminous curls, natural waves and
smooth blow-dry finishes. This clever styling tool solves the key problems associated with current offerings – tangles and heat damage – by using only air combined with heat. “We have been obsessively manipulating airflow for more than 25 years. It is one of our core expertise,” explains James Dyson, Founder and Inventor. “Harnessing the power of Dyson’s digital motor we have engineered a truly unique styling tool, preventing extreme heat damage when styling. I’m immensely proud of what our engineers have achieved.” The digital motor V9 found in the Supersonic is also the powerhouse behind the Airwrap styler. Partnered with Dyson’s unique styling barrels, this motor enables the Airwrap styler to style without the need for extreme heat. The motor spins to create an area of high pressure at the
Partner Promotion
Pre-styling dryer: It preps hair for styling using
6
years spent in development
£24 investment in research and development
642 230 prototypes
engineers and scientists
103
103 granted patents and 170 pending patent applications for the Dyson Airwrap styler.
a fast but diffused airflow, drying hair to the ideal moisture level (damp to touch) before using the curling barrels. Soft smoothing brush: It adds body and volume to limp, flat hair while creating a smooth, blowdry finish. 40mm Airwrap barrel: Creates loose curls or waves for thicker, coarser hair. 30mm Airwrap barrel: Create voluminous curls or waves in most hair types. Firm smoothing brush: Creates a straighter style with less frizz, it will tame and smooth unruly, thicker, coarser hair. Round volumising brush: Creates volume and shape and is ideal for fine, thin and straight hair. ✂ @dysonhair #dysonhair
A D D I T U P
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top of the styling barrel. A high speed jet of air disperses out of six air slots around the barrel, causing the hair to curl. In order to keep the airflow focused in the desired styling direction, engineers incorporated a switching mechanism that directs airflow according to the tension in the styling brushes. No matter which way you brush through hair strands, the air flows in the direction of your hair, helping to achieve a stylist-inspired blow-dry finish. Delivering beautiful body, the Airwrap styler styles wet to dry: When hair is wet, the hydrogen bonds that line each strand break down, resetting the natural style of the hair and priming it for styling. The combination of powerful airflow and heat control allows you to style without extreme heat – which may help save time and avoid tangling. As per the Supersonic, the Airwrap styler has intelligent heat control. A glass bead thermistor measures the temperature up to 40 times a second, transmitting temperature data to the microprocessor and regulating the product’s temperature. This helps to ensure that hair does not become exposed to extreme heat. The Dyson Airwrap styler comes in three different variants – Volume & Shape which adds body to limp locks; Smooth & Control for frizzprone hair; and Complete for multiple hair types, and each styler comes with specific one-click attachments with cool tips for ease of use.
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The
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Winners!
FMAs 2018 he Irish hair industry has a wealth of incredible and exciting talent and we didn’t envy you, our readers, the task of choosing the best of the best. But, the votes have been counted, the winners have been decided, and we would like to thank everyone who voted, nominated and engaged with the inaugural Fringe Magazine Awards.
Best use oF sociAl MediA
Best Advertising cAMpAign n JoIco, K PaK colouR THERaPy
Best retAil in sAlon n PETER MaRK
The Irish chain impressed you with it’s range of in-store products designed with every customer in mind, from treatments to tools, from brands such as ghd, Nioxin and Elchim.
Industry Influencer
n sabRINa HIll @superstylesabby Sabrina Hill was an early adopter in the world of social media, using the platform to reach out to industry peers across the world. She used her feeds to grow and develop her salon and is now passing on those business learnings through her education programme. “This is an amazing award as I really try to put a lot into my social media so that everyone can experience the work I do as a business owner, educator and hairdresser. I love using social media to communicate with so many others in the industry.”
Joico’s key messaging around their Luster Lock products really spoke to you, with dedicated websites and celebrity YouTube videos.
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n PElo HaIRdREssING @pelodolls You championed Pelo Hairdressing of Newbridge as your social media star, and with over 14,0000 Instagram followers and more than 16,000 Facebook likes, this salon is upto-the minute and engaged online. “We are so happy to receive this nomination as we are only three years in business. We have won numerous hairdressing awards but never any social media awards as of yet!” Denise Philips told us. She does all the marketing as well as running a full column in salon. “I don’t like to pester people to vote as I feel if I deserve to win, I will. Hard work always wins. To be recognised within the industry amongst other hairdressers is an achievement in itself.”
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Salon Chain of the Year n
HousE oF ColouR
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Promoting a Quality Culture across its five salons and training academy, House of Colour’s commitment to five-star service has been the bedrock of this national and internationally successful chain since its founding in 1997 by Susan Byrne and David Campbell. “To receive the nomination from such a highly respected publication like Fringe is a huge honour and to see all of the other nominees and be seen as the same level as them is like winning in itself. We have worked so hard to create a salon culture and grow our group from one salon to five salons, an academy and over 100 people making up the team. Our team is the reason we are who we are: They are passionate, hard working and create amazing hair every day, we are so proud of each one of them and cannot thank them enough.”
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FMAs 2018
one to wAtch n JaNE FItzGERald
Jane Fitzgerald began hairdressing eight years ago and has been a member of the Rustiq Salon team in Kilkenny for three years. Her passion and commitment to excellence put her firmly on your radar as one to watch.
MAle grooMing sAlon n tHE GRaFtoN BaRBER
Founded in 1961,and now standing at 40 salons around Ireland and the UK, The Grafton Barber’s experience and excellence took it to the top of the list.
Best sAlon interior n KoppER HaIR
Neon, wood and, of course, copper accents combine to create an industrial aesthetic at Sabrina Hill’s Cork city salon that you deemed the top of the crop. “It is amazing to receive this nomination as our salon turns one! I had the vision for the design for a long time and the fantastic interior designer Cathy Flamingo helped to bring it to life with her eye for detail. The interiors are unique and completely capture the Kopper vibe.”
Grand Salon of the Year FRINGE MAGAZINE
n Cut_SoCIal
Do what makes you happy is the ethos behind the team at Cut_Social, and clearly that extends to their customers, with glowing testimonials and comments from regular and new clients alike. “We’ve worked so hard to bring a different level of service to the industry, and for the team to win this award is just so rewarding, it’s utterly incredible,” Katrina Kelly of Cut_Social tells us. “I was inspired by my favourite cities, London and New York, to create a beautiful space where everyone, from guest to our team, feels happy and safe. Our goal is to build confidence in everyone we meet!” ✂
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/ E L E V E N AU ST R A L I A I R E L A N D
@ E L E V E N AU ST R A L I A _ I R E L A N D
If you would like to place an order please contact the friendly team in National Beauty www.nationalbeauty.ie | sales@nationalbeauty.ie | 021 201 9681
ELEVENAUSTRALIA.IE
Black AmberXGoldwell Ireland Launch Liam and Roy Kennedy, Mark Giannandrea and Terry McGovern
The announcement of the Goldwell Ireland partnership with Black Amber. Mark Giannandrea
Shane Bennett
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The excitement was palpable in Nolita earlier this month as Roy Kennedy announced that Black Amber salons had partnered with new-toIreland colour line, Goldwell. Part of Kao Salon Division, a multinational that also counts KMS, Oribe, Bioré and Molton Brown amongst its hair and beauty brands, Goldwell will now be the colour of choice in Black Amber’s five salons. Three times Northern Ireland Hairdresser of the year and British Hairdressing Awards Hall of Fame member Shane Bennett was on hand to give his experience of working with the brand, Terry McGovern of Trinity Salon Partners shared some of the brand’s exciting plans and Kao Vice President Mark Giannandrea told guests that he was delighted with this new Irish partnership. A colour catwalk show followed before the party got under way. ✂
Roy Kennedy
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Wella Professionals TrendVision Awards A night of nervous excitement as the winners are revealed
Color Vision Gold winner, Leandro Santana Santos
Emma Willis was the host of this year’s UK and Ireland Final of the Wella Professionals TrendVision Awards which took place in Camden’s The Roundhouse. The night kicked off with Colour Me+, a dazzling collection from Wella’s Technical Director, Robert Eaton, followed by ghd’s show, Long Live the Queens. HOB Academy celebrated its 35 year anniversary with a show headed up by Akin Konizi. This year’s final saw 60 of the UK and Ireland’s most talented stylists and colourists battle it out to take home the Gold Award, judged by an esteemed panel that included Darren Ambrose, Cos Sakkas and Bruno Marc. The UK and Ireland Gold winners from Creative Vision and Color Vision will head off to Lisbon in Portugal in November for the International TrendVision Award 2018 Creative Retreat. ✂
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The Ireland Winners COLOR VISION >> GOLD Leandro Santana Santos, Decode Hair >> SILVER Stephen Aiken, Conroy Hair >> BRONZE Roisin Hynes, Sarah Mason Professional Creative Vision Gold winner, Kerry Moody
CREATIVE VISION >> GOLD Kerry Moody, DKY Hair Company >> SILVER Zara McIntyre, House of Colour >> BRONZE Stephanie Higgins, Sarah Mason Professional People’s Choice IRELAND Award Winner >> Jonathan Healy, Bellissimo wella.co.uk/trendvision
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IHF Spark Waterford
A sparkling evening of insights and inspiration.
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The importance of training and education topped the bill at the September Spark event in Lloyds Hair Salon, Waterford. Samantha Byrne of Vanilla Hair Design and Katrina Kelly of Cut_Social joined Lisa Eccles of Zinc Hair & Beauty and Anna Furlong of Anna Furlong Hairdressing and founder of the Rapunzel Foundation on the panel alongside host Danielle Kennedy of Lloyds Hair Waterford. IHF President David Campbell chaired the evening which was designed to inspire women in industry and build a support network in business. Each panel member spoke passionately about the value and importance of continuous training and education of both their staff and themselves and the rewards to be reaped from same. ✂
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Framar is the next generation in colour accessories Improve use «À Ûi ivwV i VÞ Improve technique To enquire about getting FRAMAR™ in your Salon call the friendly team at National Beauty Distribution on (021) 201 9681 or email info@nationalbeauty.ie
Instastyle
Award-winning stylist AlExIs ThuRsToN is the co-founder and vice president of Pulp Riot colour line, Butterfly Circus and Butterfly Loft salon. She reveals how social media was a major driver for their success. FRINGE MAGAZINE
n 2013, Butterfly Loft was becoming well known for hair transformations and creative color. Because our social media presence was growing, we were attracting hundreds of new clients, driving more business to our stylists and bringing us all a ton of exposure. In the beginning it started as trial and error and then evolved into using social media with intention and purpose. For me, it has always been a way to communicate with the beauty community and create opportunities in the form of new clients, friendships, colleagues, business relations, education and inspiration. As a stylist, it changed my business by attracting the clientele I wanted to cultivate. As a salon owner, it drove more clients into my salon and kept our stylists busy. As an entrepreneur, it’s become our microphone of how we speak to the beauty community on a daily basis. Your social media profile is a channel that people tune into for inspiration, education, events, new products. @hairbykaseyoh and @bottleblonde76 are two powerhouse female artists, international educators for Pulp Riot and great friends of mine that I follow. ✂ @alexisbutterflyloft; @butterflyloftsalon
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If you would like to place an order please contact the friendly team in National Beauty www.nationalbeauty.ie sales@nationalbeauty.ie 021 201 9681
Get The Look
Switch up super sleek hair this festive season with a deep divide. At Molly Goddard’s AW18 collection - with its flurry of puffball skirts and ruched bodycon dresses - Luke Hersheson, John Frieda UK Creative Director, updated sloaney straight nineties hair with a side parting: “It gives the look that hard edge,” says Luke.
GEt thE look
Add crystal accessories to take this look out out.
Frizz Ease Original 6 Effects Serum through the lengths. >> Create a deep side parting and then liberally spray John Frieda Forever Smooth Blow Dry Styling Spray at the roots and through the lengths. Blow dry the hair straight, using a soft bristled brush to smooth and flatten the hair. >> Take small sections of the hair and starting at the front, use straightening irons to straighten all of the hair – front, back and sides. >> Using a soft bristled brush, sweep some of the hair that frames the face to one side, creating a long, low sweeping side fringe that hangs slightly over one eye. >> Using the John Frieda Frizz Ease Moisture Barrier Intense Hold Hairspray, spritz the side fringe to ensure it stays in place. >> Create a natural gloss by using the John Frieda 100% Shine Glossing Mist as a finishing touch. ✂
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>> Start with wet hair and apply John Frieda
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Hair Style
“Our inspiration was the nineties, in particular George Michael’s Freedom video and the influence of the supermodels, the key one being Linda Evangelista. We wanted to make statement cuts and colours that moved away from the boring long hair that dominates the Irish scene. We feel they represent where Irish hairdressing should be going: individual looks, bespoke colour and fun hair - everything our industry stands for.”
takes its direction from 90s icons.
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HousE oF ColouR’s A/W collection
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ThE TEam: DaVID CamPBELL | OLIVE TUCKER | ZaRa mcINTYRE | JOLENE O NEILL EmILY DRUmm | CaRmEL mcGUIRK | RaChEL hUNTER | NICOLE mcCORmaCK
“ These commercial looks are designed to make every guest feel individual.”
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FRINGE MAGAZINE
Cover Star
Dublin DYNasTY
In his own words, Paul HEssIoN was born to be a hairdresser. He gives us his insights on the hot topics in Irish hair.
Is it about educating the client on the value of a salon visit? Completely. At home, you are getting a second rate service: they aren’t using Kevin.Murphy colour or Wella, it’s the cheapest muck and they are throwing it on. At a salon, the client is getting the top shampoo and conditioner at the backwash, the right products and being analysed all the way through, and they’re protected. It’s the only way salons can beat the nixer trade.
B Y a l H I G G I N s
P H o T o G R a P H s
appointment. It’s hard to police it. I can’t stop it. I would encourage the younger stylists to bring their friends in to get their hair done in class rather than doing it at home because that person doing hair in your home isn’t insured. We pay massive amounts of insurance, we train staff and use the best products to insure that nothing happens to the client.
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What’s worrying you about the industry? Creatively, the industry is booming, I love where it’s going, but we need to tighten up on certain things. What kills me is the nixers: many a salon is going down because of it. Yes, I understand people do them to earn a few extra quid but when it becomes an epidemic in a salon, it will kill it and that is very concerning. The take-home pay in most reputable salons is very good, it’s the tax system is the problem. When things were tough during the crash, clients weren’t coming into salons and there was a massive growth in the black market. I had staff members tell me that customers had asked could they do their hair at home. Now on social media, clients can direct message the stylist and arrange an after work
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Cover Star Is there a skills gap in the industry? Absolutely. During the crash, salons didn’t have the money to train staff because they didn’t have clients coming in. We trained in-house, but people that don’t train or invest in staff, either in the good or bad times, when the money comes around again, there’s a gap. How do you fill it? You can’t. What are your thoughts on the apprenticeship scheme? It’s controversial. There is going to be block release from your salon to a college. Who is going to teach them? Who is training the trainer? I’m not sending my staff to someone who hasn’t got the qualifications that I want them to have. It is a minefield. What parts of the business do you delegate? I’m not good at the financial stuff.
can be a make-up application, a blow-dry or product. It has to be tangible, and they love it. At Christmas, we used to give away complimentary blow dries but it was being abused: clients would come in and ask for their ‘freebie,’ they weren’t valuing it. It isn’t a freebie, we are thanking you. Our stylists have the right to give away a complimentary treatment, even throughout the year. The know how to do it because they don’t want to stand behind a chair for nothing, they want to make money. We don’t do discounts, we incentivise clients to come back to us. In January, we will double their points on their loyalty card. We reward from within but we don’t give anything for free, it’s all add-ons. Will January be a time to reboot? I’ll take three weeks off after Christmas as many of my clients will go away. I took four weeks
The standard in the UK is very good, but the standard in Irelnad is sublime, it’s blowing them out of the water. If we keep that going we are laughing.
What sales strategies do you employ? We run promotions all year round with clients, we have a rewards card and every time a client books, she builds up rewards, it
How do you drive footfall? If you were to rely on your reputation alone, you’d die. We do a lot of local promotional activity. In our Clontarf branch, we support the local GAA club, the tennis club, the golf club. We sponsor jerseys, we are very close to the community. Drumcondra is a different approach. Two new housing estates went up around the corner and we put a booklet together inviting each of those new residents into the salon for a complimentary treatment. It’s high-end because we are high-end.
off in the summer and I came back totally refreshed. I think a lot about how we do things and how we are going to move forward. It’s not about introducing a load of new things, it’s about doing what we do well. I used to react a lot and I learned to become proactive. You can take your hairdressing hat off and look at your salon from a business level. Figures don’t lie. Each seat here has a value and if it isn’t producing that, there’s a problem. Each person behind the chair is earning X and they have to produce X. If that’s not happening, what’s the problem? If we see a drop in anyone’s take, we bring a solution to them to help them. In that way, we are proactive. My goal is to build the industry and keep it on the crest of the wave that it’s on. I judge the L’Oréal Colour Trophy in the UK and the standard there is very good, but the standard in Ireland is sublime, it’s blowing them out of the water. If we keep that going we are laughing. But you have to remember, it’s the person sitting in front of you that matters. ✂ hessionhairdressing.com
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I know how to run a salon, manage people. I delegate hugely within the salon, from front of house to training. I’m blessed with a general manager who is my right and left hand: Liam O’Byrne, he’s my brother in law. Every Monday we have meetings where we look at the figures and I know what comes in and what goes out.
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natural
w
Chemical-free haircare is the way forward, according to one expert couple.
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i Organic Italian Hairdressing in Dalkey, Co Dublin was launched in 2017 by husband and wife team, Francesco Piccolo and Ivana Margarini, who have created ConLeMani, an all-natural approach to haircare. We spoke to the couple about their environmental ethos. “Ivana and I met in Rome in 2004 when we were hired by Alfaparf Milano to create a national project in the hairdressing field. Having attended two master courses in Bologna and Rimini and studying with stylist teams from Perugia and Milan, we were chosen to take part in the Accademia Italiana project, establishing ourselves as hair stylists in various Italian cities.”
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Please tell us about ConLeMani. “Our research on the properties of plants and herbs has led us to develop ConLeMani, meaning with the use of hands. It is strictly done by hand, from preparing the compounds to their application. They are completely plant-based and biodegradable, and they respect the environment by not polluting
Local Heroes
clients can refill products with a 10% discount. How are Irish customers reacting to the salon and the organic ethos? “At first, our biggest difficulty was customer uncertainty regarding the performance of the hair colouring and other organic products. Upon testing, our customers say they would never go back.”
What are the future plans? “Next year, we will launch our own line of professional products, OI, made in Italy. Ivana and I will personally choose the ingredients and essences to create an organic and vegan-friendly range to include in our salon. Our lifelong ambition is to offer franchising to teach our ConLeMani methods here in Ireland. A more organic future will be the new concept of global hairdressing.” ✂ oihairsalon.ie
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the water. All our ingredients are organic, 100% natural, vegan-friendly, have zero chemicals, and are tested for nickel, chromium, lead, and cadmium. ConLeMani only uses pure raw materials, ranging from the best herbs and flowers, to healing plants, clays, vegetable oils rich in minerals, algae with nourishing properties, essential oils and hydrosols. Our salon is a place where certified organic shampoos, finishing products, perfumes and make-up have replaced traditional chemicalbased products.” The salon is also mindful of its environmental responsibilities, using electric energy from renewable sources, pressure reducers to control water waste and hairdryers with low energy consumption and low noise pollution. They have also introduced a Refilling-Bar where
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followthe leader
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Business coach DavID BaRNEtt shares his secrets to success.
he journey that defines who I am as a hairdresser, business owner and salon coach has taken me around the world. I have spent twenty years behind the chair servicing my guests and my differentiator is the roles I have played, the opportunities I have seized, and a mindset that has always kept me looking forward. At 14, I was certain about my future as a hairdresser. I am the fourth generation in my family to pursue this trade. I started sweeping hair at the local salon and I left home at 16 to begin my apprenticeship. At 18, I moved to Dublin and joined Toni & Guy. At 22, I was one of the youngest ever franchise owners when I opened my first salon in Limerick. I spent 10 years with Toni & Guy and was a member of the artistic team, traveled as an educator and definitely had too much fun.
This was an amazing decade for me but the drive to take things to the next level is when my career really began. I sold everything I owned, moved to New York city and discovered a new dimension to our industry. Here, it wasn’t just about the haircut: New York introduced the concepts of customer service and being business savvy. I worked as a stylist and educator at The John Barrett Salon in the penthouse of Bergdorf Goodman on 5th Ave. The salon was bringing in over a million dollars a month in sales and stylists were earning over one hundred thousand dollars plus a year. The two hemispheres connected: I can be a hairdresser AND I can earn an amazing income. After four years, I moved to Chicago as the first Creative Director of Salons for the billion dollar brand, Ulta Beauty. This role taught me the importance of brand identity, knowing who your guests are and truly leading a team. I met my wife and business partner, Nicole. She was a stylist,
Pro Talk financial side is often the most difficult, as this is an area most of us were never taught. Basic business principles do apply, but to have long term growth and profit, a clear understanding of how to continually increase revenue and to know the proper budget for spending needs to be salon specific. For example: how much retail orders should be, our colour and professional product orders, payroll structure, office supplies, laundry, education, marketing and the dozen other expenses we have each month. When we have our ‘business systems running the business’ we can create a very lucrative and secure career for our teams and for the salon business owner and everyone wins. Our coaching has two programmes: the High Performance Stylist (HPS) and The 7 Figure Salon. HPS is geared toward the individual stylist and offers a tremendous amount of education, group support and interaction for a small monthly fee. The 7 Figure Salon programme is a six month one-on-one partnership between Nicole and I and the stylist or salon owner. In that programme, we work with the owner and all the stylists on their team. We go over EVERYTHING as it is today, identify what’s working well, areas of opportunity, all finances and then set goals and implementation plans followed by our support and accountability for six months to make the transformation happen. ✂ davidbarnett.org
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educator and platform artist for Redken 5th Ave. As usual, when the woman of your dreams enters your life, things get a shake up. We set our sights on California, to open our own salon with a culture we had never experienced in our combined careers: one centered around the entire team and not the owner, to offer impeccable customer service to our guests and each other and to be the best place for stylists to work. How did that turn out? The salon was a thriving business from day one and grew into a million dollar company with stylists earning over one hundred thousand dollars a year in a small town in northern California with haircuts starting at just $50! It was 100 per cent commitment on a daily basis for seven years, putting in endless hours, training the team, two renovations, one big relocation and refit, mastering marketing, and we had two children in the middle of all that. Nicole’s and my evolution from stylists behind the chair and salon owners to full-time business coaches came from a genuine place: we could see the opportunity for a global industry shift and we wanted to contribute to that in significant way. The most valuable part of success to us is sharing it and getting to celebrate the successes of others. As salon coaches, we work with stylists and salon owners to have the systems and structure in place to ensure they will have a profitable and growing business for years to come. The
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In The Chair Callum O’DONOvaN of The Edge Hair Design talks about mastering
the Marcel wave and the need for change. Born to it I’ve been around hairdressing all my life as my mum is a hairdresser. I was always in the salon, watching hair being cut and coloured. I had a doll head when I was young and I was always styling it, I can still hear my mom warning me not to cut it! Family feeling One of my favourite things about
working in the Irish hairdressing industry is the fact that we’re such a small country and every hairdresser knows and supports each other, I get a real sense of community from it. Industry icon From a young age I’ve
admired Dylan Bradshaw. I think he runs an outstanding business and is a superior stylist. Crest of a wave One of the
would love to be an educator, to have the ability and patience
received was from Eileen McGrath, The Edge Hair Design. She told me, ‘you could do the most amazing cut or colour in the world, but if the finish isn’t right, none of it matters.’ Every head of hair I touch, I do my best to finish it to perfection. Off the train The change I would love
to see in our industry is salons being required to train people. I have seen so many people who are passionate about hairdressing but are not getting training. It is not fair that salons won’t invest their time into training juniors to qualify them and I see a lot of people being turned off hairdressing because of it. Starry eyed The highlight of my
career to date was winning the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Star Award. I entered the competition for the first time this year, as I was finally of age. I entered for the experience, and to get through to the semi-final was a huge shock. I felt like I had already won, and then to get through to the final and win it was an absolute dream. I will never forget the feeling I had when I heard Headmasters Siobhan Jones call out my name. ✂
Class act I
Final touch One of the best pieces of advice I’ve
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courses that helped me was with Frédéric Pavard in L’Oréal. It was a three-day course about Waves, in particular the Marcel wave. It was the most intense three days ever, we nearly left crying! But I was inspired by how he finished hair. It made me realise I was in the right career and going down the right path. Adam Reeds Trends Translation was a really big help: he showed us how to spot trends and how to keep up to date with upand-coming looks.
to teach someone everything I know, and to be able to speak in front of an audience, as I get really bad stage fright.
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Interiors
Trendsetters and tastemakers can be found at the stunning salon 64.
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sublime
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reated by top London stylist Ricky Walters, Salon 64 is a feast for the senses. Set over two floors and 2,000 square feet, the opulent interior features a regal blue colour scheme with pops of raspberry and contrasting textures of concrete and marble. Bespoke stations with pop-up mirrors set around a fire pit and signature hood are just some of the outstanding touches. Here he shares the inspiration behind the aesthetic. “1664 was the first time the word ‘salon’ was used, an opulent living room located within the mansion houses of Paris. Only the elite ladies of the time were invited to the salon by the hostess of the
Interiors
Can I stay and apply my makeup as I am going out after having my hair done. Can my friend sit and join me while having my hair cut as we are due a catch up. We listened to the demands and lifestyles of our clients and has answered with two charging ports in every section and a designated makeup bar where clients can just come in for drinks, pull up a chair, flip open a mirror and apply their makeup. Should you wish to bring a friend while having your colour developing, pop down the mirror and you are at a beautiful coffee table with a fireplace at its centre.
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house where they could powder one’s nose before dinner and indulge in the art of conversation. Salon 64 has brought back to life this concept and created a lounge feel for the trendsetters of Soho, a social hub where patrons can meet over a glass of bubbles. Although hairstyles have changed throughout the ages to keep up with the latest trends in fashion, salons have stayed the same. Lifeless, boring and predictable. Salon 64 was designed to disrupt the market place and truly give clients what they are craving. Clients used to ask me the same questions: Do you have a phone charger?
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Clients LOVE the fire pit stations. Although it’s mainly used during the winter months, there is no better feeling than having your highlights develop while warming up around the fire with one of our hot chocolates in hand.The gold hood above the fireplace has our brand pattern engraved upon it – it’s made up of a series of lines and Os – the O from Salon 64. Getting ready bar, makeup bar, Champagne bar, coffee bar: it has been given a few different titles in our first year in Soho. We use our own Salon 64 coffee that is farmed in Colombia by Ricardo – we are on first name basis with all our suppliers – and roasted in north London before being packaged and sent to our salon. We also have a choice of Champagnes and bubbles all with a history and story to tell. The bar top flips open in the same manner as our fire pit stations enabling clients to pop in for drinks and get themselves ready. Stepping foot inside the salon feels more like you are stepping into a members club. It is for this exact reason that the wash areas are the complete opposite. More like a science lab, this is
where our talent can create shades of colour our clients never thought possible. Having no visual distractions in these rooms, the only colour is that taking place on the client’s heads. We have the ability to change the lighting tones from yellow to white to see how blonde will look under a street light or sunlight. It is one of my favourite spaces within the salon even if it is a NIGHTMARE to keep clean. The timber walls are manufactured from a specialist veneer called burnt oak inlayed with a polished brass pattern. The pattern is actually the roman numerals LXIV which equals 64. Yassine Mourit is an up-and-coming artist in London and I’ve been lucky enough to cut his wife’s hair for the last eight years. I knew we had to display his beautiful work. Taken from one of my favourite collections, the art work has been created using 18 carat gold and all are available for purchase directly from the salon. I wanted to fill a gap within the industry for clients to enjoy and the reaction has exceeded all expectations. The curious nature of the Soho trendsetter means they stroll straight in and ask exactly what they are stood in. A quick tour and they are addicted. So many little details hidden within the space, it truly is something that must be experienced.” ✂ salon64.co.uk
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Lightbulb Moment TaMaR ChaMbERs, Director, Chambers Salons, is paying
attention to her online audience. Mentor motivation I just love helping people feel great everyday and inspiring young people to love their work. When hiring I look for natural ability, a willingness to learn and a great attitude. Regular training in our Academy, creative evenings in the Wella Studio working on up to date techniques and a constant feed of industry videos playing in the Staff Room help to keep staff motivated.
struggle. I genuinely enjoy the business and the marketing side but there is only so much time in a week to focus on all the different areas while running a busy column as well. Now, I have one day a week without taking clients and it’s easier to focus that way. I put everything in my calendar with reminders so I can stay organised. Call for change I would absolutely love if
Tops in tech I have an interest in technology so
I am constantly learning new things about marketing and advertising online, of course social media is a part of that, Instagram is the way forward now. I’m interested in websites, SEO and google adwords/keywords, it’s fascinating. I did a Facebook Masterclass a few years ago and found that interesting. We started a new campaign on Facebook with a theme mixed of images and video. I’m not sure anyone in Ireland is really doing it right just yet - but we are on it!
In the diary
Finding time to do everything is a
Christmas season, we are ensuring we have lots of support staff and setting up a nice Christmas retail area. I’m not a massive fan of Christmas but I love the buzz in the salon and happy clients. It’s so important that bookings are taken correctly and we can maximise our appointments. My tip to encourage repeat business is always talk about the next visit: let your clients know you have a plan and that it can only get better when they trust you and can relax. ✂ robertchambers.ie
I became an official owner last year when we changed over to a limited company. I feel like I have arrived. We have three salons and our Academy was the first ever to open in Ireland so my plan is to constantly improve with education and technology and to continue to provide precision expertise and education in Ireland.
Festive fun Coming up to the
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Driving forward
qualifications were governed and regulated, if there was a state exam to get a license. It would also help academies to not have to rely on private bodies to receive accreditation. There are too many unqualified hairdressers teaching our up-andcoming hairdressers of tomorrow. Many salons don’t offer consistent training, this is extremely unfair for eager apprentices.
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IN the MONEY
CaRl REadER, author of The Start Up Coach, shares
everything you need to know about the early stage funding options if you are considering starting your own salon.
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robably the most nerve-wracking part of the whole process of starting a business is pitching the business to funders – in part due to television programmes such as Dragon’s Den. In reality, although you must expect your ideas to come under scrutiny, the actual meetings with bank managers or funding organisations will be more relaxed, without the formal pitches, and will be a two-way process. There are, however, some ground rules that you must be aware of. Firstly, it is vital that you know your business, and your business plan, inside out. They will expect you to have a grasp on the financials of the business, and to understand exactly what makes money and what the potential warning signs are. They will also expect transparency and honesty from you. If there is a major weakness in your business, for example a strong competitor, you should be honest about this, and explain how you would look to overcome this weakness. Many business owners believe their personal
bank is the only option to fund their business, however this couldn’t be further from the truth. WHaT FUNdING OPTIONS aRE OUT THERE?
>> Personal and family loans and remortgaging
This is definitely a valid option. However, be careful here as you will need to consider whether you have sufficient finances to run the business and maintain a contingency fund should it be required (e.g. the business isn’t as successful, or your partner is made redundant, etc.) If you choose the family loan route, ensure you prepare a properly drafted agreement, so that the terms are clear from the outset. Both sides should consider how they will deal with the worst case scenario of the business failing, both financially and personally. When remortgaging a property, the interest is usually lower than that charged on a personal or business loan, and the repayment terms can be far longer. It is vital, however, to ensure that both you (and your life partner) are happy to put your property up as security for the bank.
Book Extract Another option is an unsecured personal loan, where the interest rates are often lower than those for a business loan. There are also no arrangement fees, and potentially other perks such as gift vouchers/reward points offered as incentives. Weigh up your options carefully, and take expert advice if necessary. >>Bank loans
Despite the generally gloomy news that the media circulate, all high street banks are willing to lend money to startups. In fact, it’s easy to forget that lending money is one of the reasons that they are in business! Even though there is money to lend, and a variety of government and bank-led initiatives, it’s important to approach the bank in a professional and knowledgeable fashion. Make sure you can answer any questions confidently and consistently. >>Leasing/hire purchase arrangements
>>External seed funding
Peer-to-peer lending is a relatively new way to access finance, facilitated by websites such as Zopa. It allows members of the general public to invest their money into these loans. This is a funding avenue that is open to most individuals with a good credit history. Crowdfunding is another fairly new method of funding businesses, particularly startups. Various websites such as Kickstarter and Crowd Cube have popularised this avenue for funding, and there have been a number of successful fundings through these sites. It’s important to decide whether you will raise funds on the back of a promotion (such as seen on Kickstarter) or by issuing an equity share to the fund. Many businesses, particularly those producing gadgets, have offered their products for a discount, together with limited edition ‘early bird’ versions for early adopters at a premium price. These pre-orders have enabled them to raise their funding requirements without giving away any equity whatsoever. Not all businesses are glamorous enough to be able to do this though, so a share of equity might be necessary to raise the necessary funds. A question that I’m often asked by early stage businesses is how much can be raised. Unfortunately, the answer is often ‘how long is a piece of string?’ The amount depends on the type of funding, the type of business, and the industry that it is in. Taking a step back from the details: ultimately any funder is simply looking for debt that can be serviced and repaid within their criteria, with an interest rate to match the risk and required return for them. ✂ carlreader.com
Typically, a seed-funding round would be in exchange for equity. Because of the inherent risk of a startup, often the valuation can look extremely low from the entrepreneur’s perspective. It’s vital to remember that this is probably one of the riskier personal investment strategies from the investor’s perspective, as they may have little or no involvement in the business, and hence no control of the destiny of their investment. It’s important to agree on the key terms of the deal, including whether the investor’s capital is repayable in any way, whether there is to be any ‘salary’ for the entrepreneur before the profit is divided, and the general nature of day-to-day conduct between investor and entrepreneur. It’s also wise to agree on a structured exit strategy,
>>Peer-to-peer lending and crowdfunding
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For asset purchases, it is often prudent to consider whether the item can be purchased using a lease or a hire purchase agreement, which is itself secured against the asset. There are two types of leases. With an operating lease, you’re merely ‘renting’ the item, whereas with a finance lease you’re ‘purchasing’ the item. Banks will look for you to consider these arrangements when you are looking to fund a startup with capital assets, as it spreads the funding risk for them.
with a pre-determined valuation mechanism, so that both parties have certainty of how the relationship will finish.
Author of The Startup Coach and The Franchising
Handbook, Carl Reader is a well-known business expert, influencer and serial entrepreneur. With regular columns in the national press, online, and in many business publications, Carl is widely regarded as a leading business advisor specialising in startups and small businesses and speaks internationally on a broad range of business subjects.
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The Final Cut Newly appointed Wella Professionals Technical Director RObERt EatON talks classic cuts and new platforms. Saturday son I think I always knew this was the industry for me. My dad, Russell Eaton, used to take me into the salon from a very early age and I was a Saturday boy from about the age of 11. By the time I was 16 I had started my training. Outside inspiration For collections, I draw
a lot of inspiration from fashion, architecture and my surroundings. Often I draw inspiration from past techniques and then add a modern twist to them. Retro redux I like the shapes that were really
on-trend in the early days of Sassoon. I like how trends are always evolving and being remade. At the moment I’m enjoying developing my own take on the 80s and 90s.
When I first started it wasn’t like this at all. You were very reliant on having to travel and actively network which could be time consuming and costly, especially when based outside of London. I did love the social aspect of that, but social media has really helped boost careers at a faster rate. On the flip side, having social platforms that you have manage adds a whole new layer to your workload. top job If I was to change anything I would like to make sure that the younger generation see it as the amazing career that it can be. I think young people don’t necessarily see the rewarding side of the business and I’d love that to be emphasised a bit more because it really is an amazing, creative and inspiring industry to be in. Winning streak A big highlight for me was in
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Feeling faint I’m a strong believer in learning from your mistakes and seeing them as opportunities to improve. I’m so proud of where I am and what I have achieved and everything I’ve done in the past has led me to this point. However, there is one occasion in the early days of my career where I was working on a model with very long hair. I spent over three hours on it and forgot to check my model. She fainted. She was fine in the end, but it taught me to not to focus solely on the hair. I like to see this as a mark of my dedication to the look! Instant access
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A positive in the industry is that everything is so accessible these days. You can have instant access to trends and inspiration and share your work on platforms that have a huge reach.
2003 when I was part of the Fame Team, won the L’Oréal Colour trophy and won my first BHA award. It was an amazing year. Reaching the Fellowship for British Hairdressing Hall of Fame was amazing as was winning BHA Schwarzkopf Professional British Colour Technician of the Year in 2016 and 2017. Future facing I want to keep
on progressing in the industry in all aspects of my career and within my different roles. I’m only 38 so I’m hoping I’ve still got a wealth of opportunity ahead of me to get stuck into. The ultimate goal would be to be nominated for British Hairdresser of the Year. That would be such an incredible honour. ✂