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edi ti on 10.5 , f ebruary - march ‘ 1 4
fas h i o n r e stau ra n ts and vi llas | ba l i & southeast asian sty le
R p. 6 0.0 0 0
BALI's CUCA
LV8
BEIJING
IN THE CLUB
ISLAND LIFE
G reAT BARRIER IS LAND NZ
BALI VILLAS VILLA ESHARA ISKANDAR & ATACAYA
LOMBOK VILLAS VILLA MALIMBU
FOUR NIGHTS IN MANILA SINGAPORE'S Rp. 60.000
POD LIFE
d e s i g n
f o o d
a r c h i t e c t u r e
f a s h i o n
a r t
w i n e
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10.5
CONTENTS February - March 2014
FEATURES 044 & 054 Bali & Jakarta Fashion Stefani takes on Tugu’s latest Asian inspired venue while Kenza gets creative in Bali.
086 The Land that Time Forgot Nick Walton takes a cruise in Australia’s renowned Kimberley region and is dazzled by its beauty.
090 Four Nights in Manila Trauts heads to Manila for New Year’s and finds fun, adventure, good times and a strong need to return.
096 Great Barrier Island Thomas Jones spends a glorious week on one of New Zealand’s best holiday island destinations.
102 Romancing Winter
Erza visits Beijing in winter and takes in the sights whilst staying over at Aman Summer Palace.
108 The Travelling DJ vol 5 Tony Montana travels to San Francisco for a look around and to perform his latest dance music sets.
Cover FRV Travel: Photo: Robi Agus
Kimberley River Gorge, Australia. Page 86. 6 l FRV Travel
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10.5
CONTENTS FEBRUARY - MARCH 2014
026 028 068 074 078 080
Cuca
082 084 094 100
W Bangkok
New dining in Jimbaran.
LV8
The ultimate hotel & venue in Canggu.
Eshara Villas
A three in one villa revolution.
Two villas side by side with nine beds between them.
076 Artotel Jakarta
Overnight - Malimbu Cliff Lombok’s hillside sanctuary.
Erza takes a look around one of the capital’s newest hotels.
The Pod
Cheap and stylish in Singapore.
The Siam
Ve’s overnight in Bangkok.
A stay in the city’s fashion centre.
Mandarin Manila
Trauts take on Filipino deluxe.
072 Irra Malik
A chat with Alila Soori’s woman-in-charge.
Makassar
Overnighting in South Sulawesi.
Cheval Blanc
Nick Walton’s Maldivian getaway.
1 4 Events 3 2 Recipes 4 2 Cheese 1 1 4 Directory
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036 Villas Iskandar & Atacaya
1 6 Bits & Pieces 3 8 Wine 5 2 Fashion Scoop 1 3 0 Last Word
110 Irene Hoff 106 The Ancient Trail
Rachel Love meets the Dutchborn painted-collage pop artist.
Erza takes a trip back in time to visit Xian’s Chinese Terracotta Army.
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P T K ubu Dua M edi a J l. Petitenget 12A, Kerobokan, Bali, Indonesia Te l. +62 361 746 3751/52 | Fa x. +62 361 847 5458 email: info@frvtravel.com www.frvtra ve l.c om Di recto r Guna wa n I nd rob a skoro Graphics Coordinator Te guh Ana nta (artwork@frvtra ve l.c om) Graphi cs He lmi Nursya h, Ric ky Afd i P ho to g raphy Moc h. Sulthon, R a ma d ha n, Ad a m Ra syid Di stri buti o n Nyoman Rupma Ii n I nd ra p utra , I ma m, Ma d e i nfo@frvtra ve l.c om Fi nance Sri W ita ri, B a gus Oka Mark eti ng Gina , Oc hy (sales@frvtravel.com) A dmi ni strati o n Dya h, Poojie , Ta ri Co ntri buto rs T homa s Jone s, Da vid Tra uts, Erza ST, Nic hola s Wa lton, Rachel Love, Herman Von Ber nhardi Aguayo, Ia n Ne ub a ue r, Ve Ha nd ojo. S ubscri pti o n Yearly subscription available in Indonesia - Rupiah 315,000 Conta c t: sub sc rib e @frvtra ve l.c om Send e-mail to the above for details. Consulting Stua rt D W ilford (stua rt@frvtra ve l.c om) L eg al Asso ci ates Nyoma n Ge d e Anta guna SE, SH, MH ACS La w Offic e J l. Mertanadi 88A, Kuta, Bali. Te l: 082145689996 Fine Restaurants and Villas Travel magazine is an independent, b i -mo nthl y publ i cati o n. N ex t edi ti o n deadl i ne M arch 15, 2014
FR V Tr a v e l m a g a z i n e i s p r i n t e d u n d e r l i c e n s e d t r a d e m a r k . N o p a r t o f t h i s m a g a z i n e shou ld be re produ c e d with ou t th e wr itte n pe r m ission of th e pu blish e r. A l l r i g h t s re s e r v e d . A r t i c l e s re f l e c t t h e o p i n i o n s o f t h e a u t h o r s , a n d n o t n e c e s s a r i l y t h o s e of t h e p u b l i s h e r s . F R V Tr a v e l m a g a z i n e i s p r i n t e d b y P T M e g a I n d a h ( T: 0 2 1 - 6 1 9 0 5 2 9 w w w. m e g a i n d a h o ff s e t . c o m ) a n d d i s t r i b u t e d b y ; P T K u b u D u a M e d i a ( I n d o n e s i a ) , P e r i p l u s - J a v a B o o k s ( I n d o n e s i a ) , P T I n d o p ro m ( I n d o n e s i a ) , N a t i o n B o o k s ( T h a i l a n d ) . Con ta c t th e e -m a il a ddre sse s a bove f or f u r th e r in f or m a tion .
F R V Trav el Mag az ine
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E dit io n 1 0 . 5
February - March ‘ 1 4
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Editor’s Note FRV Travel – It takes you places The weather hasn’t been very kind over the past couple of months in Indonesia with the monsoon season in full swing. Flooding, leaking roofs and evacuations have been the norm as deluge after deluge affected major parts of the country. However, in other parts like Thailand and The Philippines the weather has been beautiful with hardly any rain and blue skies dominating. The monsoon season timing varies in different parts of Southeast Asia and it is well worth figuring out which season is starting and finishing well before you set off; it may well make or break the trip. By the end of March to April, blue skies and the easterly trade winds return to Bali and the Indonesian archipelago. This is normally around the time of Nyepi, which this year falls on Monday March 31. Nobody can accurately explain why this is but for some reason the skies normally turn blue and the rain fades to a distant memory the day after Nyepi and the Balinese New Year begins. Nyepi is also a great time to spend on
the island as everything goes quiet for 24 hours and the perfect moment for a day of self-reflection. Please give it a try this year while you can. Our intrepid writers and correspondents have once again been to all parts of the region and world to bring us and our readers back loads of stories and tips for this edition of FRV Travel magazine. Hot spots in Bali, Jakarta, Singapore, Thailand and the rest of the region are covered. An escaped to Manila, a summer sojourn in New Zealand, or a boating trip through Western Australia’s Kimberley region could be of interest to you, or maybe the fashion exposes from Jakarta’s Stefani and the Tugu’s new eatery in Menteng or Bali Starz’ more intimate look at style. Whatever it is you are looking for it may well be inside this edition of FRV Travel. We hope you enjoy the ride. FRV CONTRIBUTORS
David Trauts He started The Beat magazine 14 years ago and then FRV almost 10 years ago. This edition he flies to Manila for some fun over NYE. Then a quick visit to a new restaurant in Jimbaran which has been creating quite a stir amongst foodies since opening.
Erza S.T. This opera lover and world traveler is back on a mission to find some snow. As he shares with us his last snow in Beijing and Xian, he is now back to Europe for a month searching again for snow. Will he get it or will it be a dry winter without snow? Let us wait and see.
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Thomas Jones New Zealand is where Thomas Jones found himself over the busy Christmas and New Year period. He spent a glorious week travelling to Great Barrier Island for a real Kiwi summer island getaway, yet still found time to check out a few Bali and Lombok villas before he left.
Rachel Love Told by a fortune teller that her life would take a dramatic change in a move to the East, she arrived in Bali with a few hundred pounds and a vision to fulfill a lifelong dream of being a writer on a tropical island. FRV’s resident arts writer, Rachel writes extensively on all things lifestyle and travel related.
Nick Walton Nick has been writing on travel for over 10 years, including most recently as the travel editor for the South China Morning Post. From his home in Hong Kong he regularly travels throughout Asia and beyond, looking for new experiences, trends and destinations, both for his travel pieces in over 60 magazines globally, as well as his weekly radio show.
Ian Neubauer Ian is a Sydney-based freelance journalist specializing in adventure travel. He has reported extensively across East Asia and the South Pacific for many publications. He is also the author of two travel novels, Getafix (2004) and Maquis (2006), and an advocate for Topu Honis, an orphanage and women’s shelter in East Timor.
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regionalevents
FEBRUARY - MARCH 2014
Snow Business: Japan No one likes the cold, but if it’s going to snow you may as well make the most of it. For seven days in February in northern Japan, The Sapporo Snow Festival, one of
Kama Sutra: India
Japan’s largest winter events, will see about two million
Any opportunity to visit the famous Kama Sutra
visitors arrive to see the hundreds of beautiful snow
temples in India should not be missed but
statues and ice sculptures which the streets and parks of
combine it with The Khajuraho Dance Festival,
the city. Feb 5 - 11
legendary for its outlandish classical dance performances, which takes place in front of
Down On the Sand: Lombok The island of Lombok will be celebrating the age-old tradition of Bau Nyale, The Catching of the Sea Worms
Vishwanatha Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, then this is one event that needs to be seen to be believed. Feb 20 - 26
Festival, where thousands of people from the Sasak community troll the low tidal sands in search of the elusive polychaetes before partying on with poetry, plays, puppetry and rowing competitions. End of February depending on the tides.
Perth International Arts Festival: Australia At over 50, this is the oldest annual international multi-arts festival in the southern hemisphere and this year it again offers some of the world’s
Party, Party: Australia
Jazz In The Sun: Jakarta
Possibly the most flamboyant festival to ever grace the
Jakarta International Java Jazz Festival 2014 celebrates
literature and free community events. Look
streets of Australia’s biggest city, the Sydney Gay and
its tenth year and will subject the Indonesian capital to a
forward to seeing Booker T Jones,
Lesbian Mardi Gras will be filling the city with picnics,
syncopated storm of fine jazz, drawing crowds from all
Barenboim and The National alongside a
special events, parties and, alongside Rio and New
around the region to enjoy the talents of the likes of Jamie
whole host of educational and entertainment
Orleans, what must be one of the greatest parades in the
Cullum, Natalie Cole alongside masses of other local and
programmes, not to mention all that great food
world today. Feb 7- Mar 2
foreign acts on 18 stages over three days. Feb 28 - Mar 2
and wine. Feb 7 - Mar 1
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best theatre, music, film, visual arts, street arts, Michael
Global music: Australia Womadelaide 2014 will be bringing a wealth of global talent to South Australia as it celebrates the 21th anniversary of the event this year with performances and workshops on seven stages by the world’s best musicians including Arrested Development and Billy Bragg, dancers and DJs, alongside street theatre artists and visual artists and an all-star gala finale. Mar 7 - 10
Explore the Love: New Zealand Splore returns to the sublime Tapapakanga Regional Park to mark its 10th anniversary and promises to be a dazzling and sophisticated celebration of love not to be missed. For three days and two nights international and local music will take centre stage with its extensive, wideranging programme of contemporary cultural offerings that makes it an experience like no other. Feb 14 -16
More Indo Jazz: Bali Hot on the heels of Jakarta’s festival Bali will be hosting a four-day jazz spectacular at venues across the island, with three days of ‘pre-events’ culminating in a huge all-day concert filled with a multitude of artists from across Indonesia and the world performing a huge range of styles including jazz, soul, R’n’B, fusion, pop and others. Mar 5 - 8
Rucking Good Fun: Hong Kong
Sino Fashion: Shanghai
It’s time for silly hats, beer-soaked madness
Festival will showcase the best in haute couture
and outlandish dress ups as this year’s Hong
with prestigious designers and models coming
Kong Sevens kicks off in the rugby party town
together to offer a visual feast of beautiful
from hell. Guaranteed to be celebrated with all
models, talented designers, gorgeous fashion
the excitement, brilliant rugby and party fanfare
culture and the varied future trends of this most
that have made this one of the world’s most
cosmopolitan of Chinese cities. Mar 1 - 31
celebrated sporting events, with fans from all corners of the globe. Mar 22 - 24
The Shanghai International Fashion Culture
Show Me the Way: Bali The Bali Spirit Festival is here again with live dance and music performances by some of the world’s leading artists who will converge on the Island of the Gods in a global celebration. This year this major international yoga, dance and music celebration will be held in the beautiful grounds of the Purnati Centre for Arts in Batuan near Ubud, Bali. Mar 19 - 24 FRV Travel l 15
bits&PIECES BITS&PIECES
Boogie Wonderland comes to Mozaic Beachclub Mozaic Beachclub is proud to announce an intimate performance of the legendary Earth, Wind & Fire Experience featuring Al McKay on Thursday 6 March 2014. This is great news for residents and tourists in Bali who will get to experience one of the best live music acts on the planet! The soul pop-phenomenon will transform Mozaic Beachclub into a boogie wonderland for one night only under the stars besides Batu Belig Beach with a special performance as a prelude to the Bali Live Festival. Special guest DJs, Stevie G and Jonathon Yeo, will get the crowd pumping before and after the gig. It’s the hottest ticket for the year – don’t miss it.
Tickets details: IDR 750,000 K net for general admission – downstairs IDR 1.3 million net for VIP area – upstairs – includes canapés and welcome drink IDR 15 million net for Gazebo package for up to 10 people – includes one complimentary bottle of Ketel One vodka. For more information on ticket packages and payment methods please email ticketing@mozaic-beachclub.com
A NEW PERSPECTIVE ON COFFEE WITH ILLY
Le Méridien Bali Jimbaran brews a tasteful day of discovery with Illy Coffee in a co-curated event named ‘Premiere of A New Perspective on Coffee’ to be held on Friday, 28 February 2014 at WALA, the resort’s unique concept for guests to enjoy the finely crafted gelato, teas and specialty coffees by Illy Coffee. Guests are cordially invited to join the aroma-filled event and embark on an interactive learning workshop that will inspire the guests on how to creatively pair the tasteful coffees with succulent homemade dishes. The joint coffee and culinary culture class will be conducted by the resort’s newly onboard French Executive Chef, Hugo Thiebaut, and Asia Pacific’s Regional illy Caffe Barista Trainer, Eduardo Vastolo. The class is free of charge and will start at 11.00am onwards. 16 l FRV Travel
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BITS&PIECES
Now is the perfect time to indulge in an unforgettable family holiday to Semara Uluwatu where rates for five bedroom villas suitable for up to 10 adults have been reduced to US$1,403 ++ per night including butler, chef and car with driver. Semara Uluwatu ranks amongst the very best holiday escapes in a land renowned for its spectacular villas and is firmly entrenched in the top 10 villa experiences in Bali. The offering offers seven individually architect designed villas each with 30 metres of cliff frontage and world class features including two tennis courts, putting green, gym, Selatan Clifftop Restaurant and famous Finn’s Beach Club. The special rates are available for travel until March 15, 2014.For bookings or further information visit. www.semararesorts.com
Luxury on the cliff tops
Love is in the Air
Celebrate the month of February at One Eleven with cupid in tow, bestowing Valentine’s in the right doses with an experience that will be sure to ignite the passions. Honouring love, One Eleven, a discreet sanctuary of nine 350sqm villas, embraces romance with a choice of 3 days/ 2 nights at US$ 1,100 or 4 days/ 3 nights at US$ 1,650, with a concoction of magical moments for two. Guilty of a philosophy where giving is never enough, guests are promised offerings of honey, chocolate and candles throughout their stay.
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With pampering becoming a part, guests will also enjoy a two-hour spa treatment in the privacy of the villa’s spa gazebo. At the blessed hour of 5pm, a private mixologist awaits with your favorite tipple and a box of chocolate truffles. Enjoy the exclusive his and her amenities in preparation of a romantic dinner under the stars or choose a date at Shiro Sushi / Sake with a multi-course omakase dinner accompanied by a bottle of sparkling wine. www.111resorts.com
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BITS&PIECES
Chef Mauro Bellodi comes to the Westin The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali takes great pleasure to announce the recent appointment of Mr. Mauro Bellodi as Executive Chef. He has arrived in Bali direct from a two year stint as Executive Sous Chef at The Westin Beijing Financial Street, China. A native of Italy, Chef Mauro has packed a lot of different experiences into his culinary career. Upon graduating from a reputable Hotel & Tourism Institute, he enjoyed a succession of positions with several boutique hotels that enabled him to perfect his skills. Chef Mauro then spent time in the Caribbean before returning home to open his own fine dining Italian restaurant. Embracing his hotel roots, he later accepted an appointment as Executive Sous Chef for Hotel Ramada Ticinum Malpensa, Oleggio, Italy. An opening at the Four Seasons saw him relocate to Doha, Qatar and later transfer internally to Mahé, Seychelles. Chef Mauro’s next challenge was a pre-opening role with Gioia Resort, Maldives where he was responsible for recruiting staff and creating menus for five Food & Beverage outlets. Chef Mauro has his own distinctive style of dress for the workplace and is known affectionately as the ‘Chef in Black’ amongst his peers. He is currently the Vice President of the Italian Chefs Association worldwide and takes great pride in his culinary heritage.
Show us a Smile In conjunction with The Rotary Club of Bali, the Smile Foundation of Bali, now in its 8th year of helping local children to get cleft and cranio-facial medical treatment, will be holding a cocktail party and dinner at Cocoon Beach Club in Bali on February 22nd to raise funds to help develop medical services that touch the lives of even more needy patients in Bali. Cocktails start at 6:30 pm with dinner and other festivities starting at 8pm with tickets costing IDR 850,000. Be quick. For more information call Rotarian John Glass at +6282146323517
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Passionate about all food genres, Chef Mauro is particularly excited about the abundance of seafood and fresh ingredients that are available in Bali. He is well aware of the island’s evolving culinary scene and its incredible diversity, which he hopes to emulate. Chef Mauro has inherited an extremely talented local team and he is looking forward to the whole exchange of knowledge and the sharing process that goes on in the kitchen. “Chef Mauro will certainly strengthen the resort’s Food & Beverage positioning,” says Mr. Bipan Kapur, Managing Director of The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali. His arrival follows the recent launch of Prego, a Westin themed restaurant that puts the fun back into Italian dining. Chef Mauro’s input will be invaluable to ensure the authenticity of all dishes served on a daily basis as well as at our weekly Family Brunch. Guests can also expect to see some positive changes at all of our restaurant venues in the near future with revitalized menus and special dining promotions.”
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BITS&PIECES
Happy Birthday The Stones!
The Stones Hotel in Legian is celebrating one year of business on Kuta Beach, where their combination of beach simplicity and urban chic architectural design has met with massive approval by tourists who flock to the hotel. A lot has happened in that year, including winning several awards for their ad campaigns and their cuisine, but perhaps the most important would be their hosting of Bali’s first ever Fashion Festival, which featured a whole range of world-class runway shows with designers from across the region. As they enter their second year look out for more great events and occasions. It promises to be a bumper year!
Pandawa Cliff Estate Pandawa Cliff Estate will inspire awe in even the most stoic of discerning travelers.
The Pala, a six-bedroom villa, is flanked by the four-bedroom Villa Rose and the six-bedroom Villa Marie, and together, these three magnificent villas form an estate of spectacular proportions. The Pala and Villa Rose are perched on the cliff front, providing guests with uninterupted panoramic sea views, whilst Villa Marie is tucked to the side and offers expansive living and entertaining spaces. The Pala and Villa Rose also have a discreet interconnecting garden gate which allows for celebrations to spill across both expanses of lawn. All three exceptional villas showcase private pools, marble floors, air-conditioning throughout and quality furnishings and artefacts. The Pandawa Cliff Estate takes its name from the beach which lies at the bottom of the cliff. The white sand beach and turquoise blue water are only a short distance away. The estate is destined to become the ultimate wedding location. Perfectly positioned and offering a combination of 16 bedrooms, these villas exude the luxury often sought for an event, yet seldom found.
www.pandawacliffestate.com
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Experienced
A Villa at Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali Resort
F
irst impression Grandiose. The resort is enormous and you feel that as soon as you drive onto the property. From the front gate to the lobby the drive is nothing less than majestic. Built on 103 hectares of ocean front land there is space for a lot of resort.
Background. The resort was opened in November 1997. It is by far the largest resort on Bali and considered by many to be the most prestigious, with a magnificent Greg Norman designed 18 hole golf course, beautiful gardens, working rice fields, and in total 19 Balinese temples. How is it? The resort has 266 rooms and 12 villas. It’s a five star property all the way. Where is it? It’s quite a hike from the Denpasar airport to the resort. It could take up to an hour to get there by road depending on the traffic but once you arrive there is no need to go anywhere. The resort is sited right next to one of Bali’s most popular tourist attractions, Tanah Lot temple. The Villas. The resort has 12 villas. Most of them can be offered as one or two bedroom units. They overlook the golf course and the ocean on the south side of the hotel. They are comfortable and well appointed with alang-alang (Balinese thatch) roofs with a small outdoor and open living area, and small plunge pool. With the two room configuration, guests have a master king sized bedroom and twin bedroom which creates enough space for a small family. The spaces aren’t very large but they are well conceived. Each has a large marble tiled bathroom with a big tub and indoor and outdoor showers. Staying in the villas, guests receive the Pacific Club privileges, which include all day use of the Pacific Club Lounge, use of private secretarial services, free internet, a pyramid of balls at the driving range, use of bicycle, tennis courts, squash, and fitness centre. Don’t forget the free cocktails at sunset in the Club Lounge. There is a full time butler with each villa who will organize anything you need while you are there.
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Leisure Facilities. You can’t go past the magnificent 18-hole golf course designed by none other than the Australian golfing great, Greg Norman. Staying at this resort must be golfers’ heaven as the perfect fairways and greens are never too far away by foot or cart. The spa and gym facilities are also very good quality. Dining Possibilities. Room service a phone call away but other great options are also not so far. Grab a buggy to the Merica restaurant, which is the main eatery of the resort where the general breakfast buffet is served. At lunch and dinner time they serve a delightful menu of what they call Pacific cuisine. Tanah Lot Gastro Deli is casual dining option and perfect for sunset dining offering Mediterranean dishes while overlooking Hole 7 and Tanah Lot temple. Great seafood can also be ordered at the Pool Grill. Verdict. For a true get away from it all, you can’t go past a stay in a private villa at Pan Pacific Nirwana. There are many options around Bali for a relaxing holiday, but if you like the original Bali style and not the modern minimalist this is a great option. Everything is made very simple too. Right from the in-room check-in and check-out, to the buggy trip to the golf course and a round of 18 holes. The service is especially good. The crashing surf is never far away and a casual walk around the gardens of the resort is the perfect wind down you may be looking for in your hectic lifestyle. FRV