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10.6
CONTENTS April - May 2014
FEATURES 042 & 052 Bali & Jakarta Fashion FRV’s DP and Stefani take a waltz through Bali’s InterContinental and Jakarta’s new Cloud Lounge.
068 A World of Pure Imagination The Adelphi Hotel in Melbourne gets the once over from Emma Westwood.
078 Phuket Island Trauts soaks up some five star fun, excellent cuisine and after-dark antics in Phuket.
082 The Travelling DJ vol 6 Tony Montana comes back to Bali to get in touch with some tropical rhythms and a bit of local culture.
086 Being a Brit for a Week Erza travels to the United Kingdom and lives out his childhood dreams in Old London Town.
090 Fun and Gaming in the Desert
Thomas Jones drives his white Mustang all the way to Reno for outdoor fun and indoor excitement.
Cover FRV Travel:
Sepoi Sepoi, photo by Thomas Jones
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Some things are uncovered only by experience. The layered nuances of recipes handed down through generations. The heady, smoky goodness of caramelised, melt-in-your-mouth bites from a charcoal grill. The languid looks IXHOOHG E\ SDSHU EDJJHG ÀDVNV RI shaken and poured black stripes. )LUHFUDFNHU ÀDYRXUV $IWHU GDUN DQWLFV /HW 0DPD UHYHDO KHUVHOI WR \RX +HU VWRULHV +HU WUDYHOV +HU FKDUDFWHU
jl. raya kerobokan no.135 br taman, bali +62 361 730 436 info@mamasanbali.com www.mamasanbali.com www.facebook.com/MamaSanBali www.twitter/mamasanbali
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10.6
CONTENTS
030 Essential Bangkok
APRIL - MAY 2014
024 028 032 062
Mozaic Beach Club
064 066 076 072
Banyan Tree Bali
14 36 98
New cooking on the sands.
050 Fashion Week
Petty Elliot
A chat with the queen of the kitchen.
Erza flies to London Fashion Week to get the latest trends.
A Cup of Java
East Java’s coffee habits.
Overnight - Pandawa Beachside in the Bukit.
Serenity along the cliff tops.
The Tanjung
Some stellar Lombok villas.
074 Hyatt Regency Phuket Trauts gives the five star run down.
Overnight - Amari
084 Abu Dhabi
Trauts living large in Phuket.
One day in a desert kingdom.
Beijing Shangri-La
Where to stay in the big city.
Events Recipes Directory
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Find out where the island’s Asian street food expert, Will Meyrick likes to dine in Bangkok.
1 6 Bits & Pieces 4 2 Fashion Scoop 1 1 4 Last Word
094 Pintor Sirat
Rachel Love chats to the heavy metal sculptor.
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P T K ubu Dua M edi a J l. Petitenget 12A, Kerobokan, Bali, Indonesia Te l. +62 361 746 3751/52 | Fa x. +62 361 847 5458 email: info@frvtravel.com www.frvtra ve l.c om Di recto r Guna wa n I nd rob a skoro Graphics Coordinator Te guh Ana nta (artwork@frvtra ve l.c om) Graphi cs He lmi Nursya h, Ric ky Afd i P ho to g raphy Moc h. Sulthon, R a ma d ha n, Ad a m Ra syid Di stri buti o n Nyoman Rupma Ii n I nd ra p utra , I ma m, Ma d e i nfo@frvtra ve l.c om Fi nance Sri W ita ri, B a gus Oka Mark eti ng Gina , Oc hy (sales@frvtravel.com) A dmi ni strati o n Dya h, Poojie , Ta ri Co ntri buto rs T homa s Jone s, Da vid Tra uts, Erza ST, Nic hola s Wa lton, Rachel Love, Herman Von Ber nhardi Aguayo, Ia n Ne ub a ue r, Ve Ha nd ojo, Ra tih DP. S ubscri pti o n Yearly subscription available in Indonesia - Rupiah 315,000 Conta c t: sub sc rib e @frvtra ve l.c om Send e-mail to the above for details. Consulting Stua rt D W ilford (stua rt@frvtra ve l.c om) L eg al Asso ci ates Nyoma n Ge d e Anta guna SE, SH, MH ACS La w Offic e J l. Mertanadi 88A, Kuta, Bali. Te l: 082145689996 Fine Restaurants and Villas Travel magazine is an independent, b i -mo nthl y publ i cati o n. N ex t edi ti o n deadl i ne M ay 15, 2014
FR V Tr a v e l m a g a z i n e i s p r i n t e d u n d e r l i c e n s e d t r a d e m a r k . N o p a r t o f t h i s m a g a z i n e shou ld be re produ c e d with ou t th e wr itte n pe r m ission of th e pu blish e r. A l l r i g h t s re s e r v e d . A r t i c l e s re f l e c t t h e o p i n i o n s o f t h e a u t h o r s , a n d n o t n e c e s s a r i l y t h o s e of t h e p u b l i s h e r s . F R V Tr a v e l m a g a z i n e i s p r i n t e d b y P T M e g a I n d a h ( T: 0 2 1 - 6 1 9 0 5 2 9 w w w. m e g a i n d a h o ff s e t . c o m ) a n d d i s t r i b u t e d b y ; P T K u b u D u a M e d i a ( I n d o n e s i a ) , P e r i p l u s - J a v a B o o k s ( I n d o n e s i a ) , P T I n d o p ro m ( I n d o n e s i a ) , N a t i o n B o o k s ( T h a i l a n d ) . Con ta c t th e e -m a il a ddre sse s a bove f or f u r th e r in f or m a tion .
F R V Trav el Mag az ine
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E dit io n 1 0 .6
A pril - May ‘ 1 4
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Editor’s Note FRV Travel – It takes you places The Balinese New Year, or the day better known as Nyepi – the day of silence - has just been celebrated on the island this past March 31, and now once everything has begun to get back to normal it’s time to start the brand new year invigorated and renewed after the 24 hours of mandatory silence and self-reflection. What a wonderful break Nyepi is and we hope everyone who participated in the occasion enjoyed and benefitted from it once again. With Nyepi also comes the change of seasons on Bali. The wet season typically finishes around this time every year so now we have the beginning of the dry, and for many the best weather and times of the year. Vegetation is lush and green while the skies can be as blue and clear as they ever get. This is a great time to kick off new projects and just feel the simple joie de vive of being alive.
As is the norm in FRV Travel we start the magazine with stories on food and culinary delight. We have a special guest writer this edition with Will Meyrick joining us for a trip around Bangkok street food, and we visit Mozaic Beach Club to experience the new smoker and even some cooking classes. We also get to the bottom of the mystery of that local and very famous brew of coffee, Kopi Luwak. Speaking of experienced, our writers have experienced a number of hotels, resorts and restaurants around the region summed up in short and concise pieces. Getaways from further afield are also inside - if you enjoy them let us know, and we will keep them coming. Any ideas or thoughts on what we do here at FRV Travel are greatly appreciated. Please send to editor@ frvtravel.com FRV CONTRIBUTORS
David Trauts This English correspondent helped start The Beat magazine many years ago and then FRV. This edition he travels back to Thailand to try the fruits of Phuket and Bangkok once more and then some fine dining from Bali to the capital Jakarta.
Erza S.T. Going for an annual winter trip is like a religion to this operaloving writer. In one-anda-half months, not only did he visit seven cities in Europe, he also went to see London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2014 and get to be a Brit for a week! Also catch his interview with Petty Elliott, who brings traditional Indonesian cuisines into the modern world. 12 l FRV Travel
Thomas Jones Cruising through the American High Sierras in a white convertible Ford Mustang is definitely a holiday activity Thomas Jones can recommend from first hand experience. What’s even better is stopping off in Reno for some great food, good fun and, win or lose, a bit of a flutter on the blackjack tables.
Rachel Love Told by a fortune teller that her life would take a dramatic change in a move to the East, she arrived in Bali with a few hundred pounds and a vision to fulfill a lifelong dream of being a writer on a tropical island. FRV’s resident arts writer, Rachel writes extensively on all things lifestyle and travel related.
Nick Walton Nick has been writing on travel for over 10 years, including most recently as the travel editor for the South China Morning Post. From his home in Hong Kong he regularly travels throughout Asia and beyond, looking for new experiences, trends and destinations, both for his travel pieces in over 60 magazines globally, as well as his weekly radio show.
Ian Neubauer Ian is a Sydney-based freelance journalist specializing in adventure travel. He has reported extensively across East Asia and the South Pacific for many publications. He is also the author of two travel novels, Getafix (2004) and Maquis (2006), and an advocate for Topu Honis, an orphanage and women’s shelter in East Timor.
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regionalevents
APRIL - MAY 2014
Sailing Away (Singapore)
Hose Me Down (Thailand)
Singing The Blues (Australia)
The Singapore Yacht Show is a world-class yachting
It’s Songkran Festival time again in Thailand, with various
Australia’s best-by-far blues festival, the Byron Bay
event showcasing some of the finest super yachts and
religious and cultural activities, including giving alms to
Bluesfest, will be taking to the hills this month and
luxury boats in the region. It’s an exclusive opportunity for
the country’s monks, but probably best known as a time
featuring a four-day line up that includes Jack Johnson,
the world’s leading yachts and yachting brands to meet
to stand in the streets to throw water on passersby and
Jon Meyer, Elvis Costello, Erykah Badu and the illustrious
high net worth individuals from around Asia. Apr 11-14
generally have a raucous good time. April 13-16
Doobie Brothers. April 17-21
Cherry Blossoms in the Air (Japan)
Getting Cross (Philippines) For those with a taste for the intense then the Good Friday
It’s party time in Japan in April for the annual hanami cherry
Easter celebrations in Pampanga province north of Manila
blossom festival. Timing is everything and anytime from
will be the place for you. You can witness the devout
early- to mid-month the country comes alive in a sea of
Christian pilgrims taking the pain of their Lord Jesus Christ
pink snow as the country turns out to celebrate the coming
literally as they get nailed to the cross. April 18
of spring. Early April
Aces High (New Zealand)
Fireworks of the Gods (Thailand)
All the Hue
For three days over Easter, Wanaka becomes the centre
Massive fireworks, high-spirited revelry, folk dancing,
The Hue Festival has celebrated the historic city’s
stage of a world-famous Warbirds Airshow. Some of the
theatre and beauty parades accompany this Bun Bangfai
cultural heritage since 1992 and features a wide variety
most famous Warbirds join forces with the classic aircraft
Rocket Festival this year in Yasathon in northeast Thailand.
of traditional activities such as calligraphy exhibitions,
of yesteryear, modern jets of today, warhorses, vintage
Rockets of all sizes and shapes are launched to ensure
kite flying, recreations of special historical events,
machinery and vintage vehicles. Lots of high-adrenaline
plentiful rains for the rice-planting season. May 10-11
and performances of dance and fireworks, with the
excitement and nostalgia. April 18-20
participation of over 40 art companies from both Vietnam and abroad. April 12-20
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Night Lights (Sydney) Sydney will be transformed into a spectacular canvas of light, music and ideas when Vivid Sydney takes over the city after dark with creativity and inspiration, featuring the breathtaking immersive lighting of the iconic Sydney Opera House sails, and so much more. 23 May-9 June
Borneo a Go Go (Kalimantan)
Tally Ho (Western Australia)
Get Enlightened (Sri Lanka)
The Issen Mulang Festival features decorated boats that
The Broome Beach Polo Festival sees polo players from
Vesak celebrates Lord Buddha’s birth, his attaining
cruise down river with dancers and extravagant decoration,
around the world competing for the Paspaley Cup in a
of Enlightenment and his passing away into Nirvana,
blowpipe and fireball competitions, traditional singing and
free, public, round-robin competition ending in the final
with colourful bamboo lanterns and luminous displays
dancing and food and cooking demonstrations of the
held on the picturesque Cable Beach. An Aussie cultural
decorating the homes the streets of Sri Lanka along with
Dayak and Malay peoples. May 19-24
event not to be missed. May 25
street performances and roadside stalls selling loads of food and fun. May 14
Watermelon Festival: Beijing
Men in Dresses
The Thrissur Pooram festival in Kerala features a
Consider it a beauty pageant for this juicy red summertime
2,000 people are expected to participate in the “Wonderful
procession of around 30 colourfully decorated elephants,
fruit, where farmers from all over China bring their
Adventure Indonesia Asia Pacific Hash 2014” that will race
drum concerts, ornamental parasol displays, and loads
melons to Beijing for a chance at the grand prize for
through villages and streets of Bali raising funds for charity.
of fireworks. The festival is a huge cultural event that runs
the best watermelon in various categories. This king of
Part of the event will be a the traditional “Red Dress Run”
through the night with exuberant celebrations. May 8-10
the watermelons competition is held May 25, before the
in which participants, both male and female, run wearing
festival’s official start, at the Chinese Watermelon Museum
outrageous red women’s dresses. May 9-11.
A Jumbo Celebration (India)
in Daxing. May 25-28
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bits&PIECES BITS&PIECES
Villa Mandalay With panoramic views over luxuriant rice paddies stretching to the Indian Ocean, Villa Mandalay provides a lavish, exotic hideaway in Tabanan, on Bali’s scenic south west coast. With the option of renting from six to seven bedrooms, this spacious villa provides ample space for families and small groups. Sweeping lawns fringed by lush tropical gardens framing a picturesque backdrop also make Mandalay ideal for wedding parties. Friendly and professional staff are on hand to welcome you, while highlights include a 25-metre swimming pool, charming ‘pitch and putt’ golf course, sauna, extensive a la carte menu, membership of the prestigious Canggu Club, and complimentary car and driver.
Bali’s award winning ‘Metis Restaurant & Gallery’ is complementing its roster with the opening of the Lounge Club.
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Designed by the famous Artalenta Indonesia, Architects and Interior Design, the Lounge Club is situated directly behind the restaurant overlooking a beautiful water lily pond garden and features a truly unique, trendy ambience. In addition to great cocktails and delicious finger food, the top-notch entertainment line-up will give the Lounge Club an international appeal. The high tech retractable roof will ensure the great times continue even during the unpredictable rainy season. The Lounge Club will be launched near the end of April 2014 with an exclusive, invitation-only event that they say will be bigger than anything yet seen in Bali, and on par with jet set standards. Visit www.metisbali.com for more info and secure your reservation at your earliest. Tel: +62 (0) 361 4737 888. Jalan Petitenget No.6, Seminyak, Bali, Indonesia.
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BITS&PIECES
Street food comes to W Bali’s Fire
FIRE at the W Retreat & Spa Bali - Seminyak has been transforming its ever-popular dining area into a bustling Southeast Asian marketplace on Sundays recently. To launch HAWKER HOUSE, internationally acclaimed UK chef, Peter Lloyd, Executive Chef of W London - Leicester Square and Spice Market London collaborated with W Bali’s Richard Millar at the opening on March 23 with the pair creating dishes and unique culinary concepts that put a spin on traditional brunch.Chefs Lloyd and Millar, took inspiration from Southeast Asian fare, and with Millar’s local experience, added a twist of Balinese spice into the mix. Lloydis definitely no stranger when it comes to cooking Southeast Asian food, as the talented chef and BBC Saturday Kitchen guest star is an expert in Thai and Malaysian cuisines and his signature dish of Black Pepper Shrimp with Sundried Pineapple won him an award at the Taste of London in 2012.
HAWKER HOUSE promises to heighten every sense with a vibrant mix of flavours and aromas as the bustling mix of steaming trader stalls and food cartsfeaturing tastes from all corners of Asia offering brunch guests a culinary experience they won’t forget. The HAWKER HOUSE is open every Sunday from 12pm at FIRE. Price starts from: IDR 425,000++
The Executive Chef at Stones is going back to his origins, partnering up with Stockyard “Australia‘s most awarded beef supplier”, from the Darling Downs in Queensland, to present a premium selection of grain fed Black Angus and Stockyard Black Label Wagyu Beef. Cooked to perfection from their Lava Stone Grill accompanied by delicious sauces and side dishes, and accompanied by live entertainment, come enjoy steaks priced at IDR 280,000 for selected cuts, at the Big Fish Bar & Grill from 6pm nightly.
Stones Double Decker Fun
In February of this year Jakarta City started providing free city tours with a difference – on brand sparkling new, bright blue, double-decker busses! And it’s all FREE, taking in all the major sights of the Big Durian including the Sarinah Department Store, the National Museum, the Santa Maria School, which lies opposite the Negara Palace, the Pecenongan street food area, the Gedung Kesenian cultural theatre near the vintage Pasar Baroe shopping street, the Presidential Palace and then on to the National Monument before finishing at the Municipal Hall. The 11 km tour is expected to take 1.5 hours to complete the circle and five buses will serve the tour. Buses are equipped with video screens and tour guides will provide the information you need along the route. Passengers may board or step out of the bus at any of the designated stops. 18 l FRV Travel
Why not go and stay with The Stones Hotel while you are in Bali? If you book 14 days in advance you can enjoy 10% savings from their best available rates. Terms and condition apply. THE STONES HOTEL, AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION Jalan Raya Pantai Kuta, Legian, Bali. Tel +62 (0)361 300 5888 www.stoneshotelbali.com
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BITS&PIECES
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K a n awa Island This tiny gem lies to the northwest of Komodo National Park and pocesses a charming backpacker resort with affordable bungalows, bales, and even a camping area. The island has a black tip reef shark nursery and juvenile sharks no bigger than house cats can be seen patrolling its shallow waters. Photo: www.lookdownbali.com
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