FRV Travel 11.2

L o g

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f r v t r av e l . c o m

f o r

n e w s

a n d

t r av e l

fash i o n r e staura n ts a nd villas | ba li & southe ast asian style

i n f o r m at i o n

edition 11 . 2, AUGUST - S EPTEM BE R ‘ 1 4 Rp. 5 0.0 0 0

DINING

METIS LOUNGE WARISAN MEJEKAWI Rp. 50.000

48HOURS

Destination Burma Cooler Lumpur

GET AWAY

BROMO SUNRISE PRAGUE ROMANCE

JAKARTA

ARTOZ BAR HERMITAGE HOTEL

SESEH

BEACH VILLAS

SEMARA

ULUWATU VILLAS

d e s i g n

f o o d

a r c h i t e c t u r e

f a s h i o n

a r t

w i n e

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11.2

CONTENTS August - September 2014

FEATURES 032 Metis Lounge Bali’s hippest new lounge venue offers great food and drinks in a very cool ambience.

052 Oasis in the City Darren Dylan celebrates a birthday at the Hermitage Hotel Jakarta and sees the whole family loving life.

060 & 068 Fashion FRV’s photographers and models at Jenja and La Favela.

078 Bromo Sunrise Sometimes getting up early in the morning for sunrise is simply the best thing in the world.

84 on a budget Singapore Trauts returns to the Lion City after many years and loves it all over again.

90 The Travelling DJ vol8 Tony Montana takes on Ibiza and finds an island wallowing in success.

Cover FRV Travel:

Finn’s Beach Club at Semara Uluwatu 6 l FRV Travel

Restaurant Bookings Essential: +62 361 4737 809 or info@sarongbali.com Jl Petitenget No. 19X Kerobokan, Bali, Indonesia www.sarongbali.com

www.facebook.com/sarong-bali

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11.2

CONTENTS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2014

026 028 032 038 040 044 048 050 054 056

Mejakawi

088

Czech Nights

14 30 98

KUDETA’s new dining sensation.

Under the Stars

Warisan’s new healthy menu.

Artoz visited by Erza S.T.

Will Meyrick takes us for two days along the alleys and waterways of Myanmar.

Darwin Chef

Jimmy Shu gives his thoughts.

082 KL Nights

Menno Verhaar

The coolest spots for live music in Malaysia’s Kuala Lumpur.

Interview with a sommelier.

Akira Back

The Korean chef is now in Jakarta.

Semara Uluwatu

Luxury living on the Bukit.

Seseh Beach Villas

A five-star villa with ocean views.

Java Banana

Fine accommodation at Mt. Bromo.

Falling in Love

A Phuket villa tale of joy.

080 Java Biking Jogya to Bromo by motorcycle.

094 Bali Artist

A chat with Bali artist Sugita.

Erza visits Prague and loves it.

Events Recipe Directory

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034 48 Hours Burma

Artoz Bar

1 6 Bits & Pieces 4 0 Cheese 1 1 4 Last Word

092 Artist’s Space Nina Hadinata’s Warehouse collective.

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P T K ubu Dua M edi a J l. Petitenget 12A, Kerobokan, Bali, Indonesia Te l. +62 361 746 3751/52 | Fa x. +62 361 847 5458 email: info@frvtravel.com www.frvtra ve l.c om Di recto r Guna wa n I nd rob a skoro Graphics Coordinator Te guh Ana nta (artwork@frvtra ve l.c om) Senior Graphics Ric ky Afd i P ho to g raphy Moc h. Sulthon, R a ma d ha n, Ad a m Ra syid Di stri buti o n Nyoman Rupma Ii n I nd ra p utra , I ma m, Ma d e i nfo@frvtra ve l.c om Fi nance Sri W ita ri, B a gus Oka Mark eti ng Gina , Oc hy (sales@frvtravel.com) A dmi ni strati o n Dya h, Poojie , Ta ri Co ntri buto rs T homa s Jone s, Da vid Tra uts, Erza ST, Nic hola s Wa lton, Rachel Love, Herman Von Ber nhardi Aguayo, Ia n Ne ub a ue r, Ve Ha nd ojo, Ra tih DP. S ubscri pti o n Yearly subscription available in Indonesia - Rupiah 200,000 Conta c t: sub sc rib e @frvtra ve l.c om Send e-mail to the above for details.

Consulting Stua rt D W ilford (stua rt@frvtra ve l.c om) L eg al Asso ci ates Nyoma n Ge d e Anta guna SE, SH, MH ACS La w Offic e J l. Mertanadi 88A, Kuta, Bali.

Te l: 082145689996 Fine Restaurants and Villas Travel magazine is an independent, b i -mo nthl y publ i cati o n. N ex t edi ti o n deadl i ne September 15, 2014

FR V Tr a v e l m a g a z i n e i s p r i n t e d u n d e r l i c e n s e d t r a d e m a r k . N o p a r t o f t h i s m a g a z i n e shou ld be re produ c e d with ou t th e wr itte n pe r m ission of th e pu blish e r.

A l l r i g h t s re s e r v e d . A r t i c l e s re f l e c t t h e o p i n i o n s o f t h e a u t h o r s , a n d n o t n e c e s s a r i l y t h o s e of t h e p u b l i s h e r s . F R V Tr a v e l m a g a z i n e i s p r i n t e d b y P T M e g a I n d a h ( T: 0 2 1 - 6 1 9 0 5 2 9 w w w. m e g a i n d a h o ff s e t . c o m ) a n d d i s t r i b u t e d b y ; P T K u b u D u a M e d i a ( I n d o n e s i a ) , P e r i p l u s - J a v a B o o k s ( I n d o n e s i a ) , P T I n d o p ro m ( I n d o n e s i a ) , N a t i o n B o o k s ( T h a i l a n d ) .

Con ta c t th e e -m a il a ddre sse s a bove f or f u r th e r in f or m a tion .

F R V Trav el Mag az ine

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A ug ust - S ept ember ‘1 4

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Editor’s Note FRV Travel – It takes you places The high season has arrived again. As the northern hemisphere summer reaches its peak and Europeans in particular go for their annual holidays, Bali and other tourist destinations around Indonesia begin to swell with foreign tourists. This year, however, there is an added facet to the high season equation with Idul Fitri being celebrated at the end of July and the long holiday, called Lebaran in these parts, taking off in early August. Now, if you thought it was busy already, take a deep breath, because it’s only just begun. One warning, watch out for the traffic jams in Bali, but at the same time it is the best and busiest time to be on the island. It’s definitely the most exciting.

FRV is involved with a couple of events over the high season this year in Bali. If you like to be fashionable you can’t afford to miss the second installment of The Fashion Festival Bali held at The Stones Hotel in Legian. The

event is organised by some very voguish Melbournites & Indonesians and if last year’s event is anything to go by it should be a very stylish affair. If you would like to attend the opening gala cocktail reception and runway show, send me an email and we will put you on the list.

FRV is also presenting a fashion and bubbles night at the new whisky bar in Seminyak (Oberoi Road) called Single Malt. It should be a load of fun with our friends from Chandon supplying the bubbles. Send me an email about that one too even though I’m sure you will be able to sneak through the door in any case.

Inside this edition we have FRV writers travelling all over the planet again, filing back informative and interesting stories of how life is far away and right here at home.

I hope you enjoy this edition and any comments or requests email me on editor@frvtravel.com FRV CONTRIBUTORS

David Trauts This English correspondent started The Beat magazine many years ago and then the group’s flagship, FRV. This edition he has a taste of the new Metis Lounge, sits at the new chef at Warisan’s table and returned to Singapore after many years and stayed in a rather interesting accommodation with an equally intriguing name, Hotel Clover The Arts.

Erza S.T. The opera loving, winter traveler-cum-food critic was on the mission to try three of Jakarta’s latest dining and hang out places. See what he’s got to say on Akira Back, Prime Cuts and the latest whisky bar Artoz. He also shares about some quirky moments in Europe as well as some insight about Prague.

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Thomas Jones Thomas visits Bromo and finds a unique and beautiful hotel called Java Banana perched upon the hillside, from where an early morning sunrise over East Java’s Mt Bromo is on the menu. A couple of Bali villas also get a visit along the way.

Rachel Love Told by a fortune teller that her life would take a dramatic change in a move to the East, she arrived in Bali with a few hundred pounds and a vision to fulfill a lifelong dream of being a writer on a tropical island. FRV’s resident arts writer, Rachel writes extensively on all things lifestyle and travel related.

Nick Walton Nick has been writing on travel for over 10 years, including most recently as the travel editor for the South China Morning Post. From his home in Hong Kong he regularly travels throughout Asia and beyond, looking for new experiences, trends and destinations, both for his travel pieces in over 60 magazines globally, as well as his weekly radio show.

Ian Neubauer Ian is a Sydney-based freelance journalist specializing in adventure travel. He has reported extensively across East Asia and the South Pacific for many publications. He is also the author of two travel novels, Getafix (2004) and Maquis (2006), and an advocate for Topu Honis, an orphanage and women’s shelter in East Timor.

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regionalevents

AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2014

Surfs Up - Australia Almost nothing stands out more in Australia than its reputation for surfing and where better to see it at its

Baliem Valley Festival Indonesia

best than the Australian Surf Festival at the beautiful and

Explore the last frontier of Indonesia’s remote Papua Island

wave-rich Coffs Harbour, in NSW for a 7th time in August.

at the one occasion when all the diverse tribes from the

The event will see over 500 competitors from around

highlands of Wamena and the Baliem Valley congregate

the nation descend on Coffs Harbour for a shot at being

to celebrate their annual festival with the highlight being

crowned an Australian Champion during the two-week

the mock tribal battles held to maintain the agility and

festival. 10 - 24 August

preparedness of the tribes to defend their villages.

8 - 15 August

Obon - Japan

The Fashion Festival Bali

Each August Japan comes alive during the obon festival

The second annual fashion extravaganza, The Fashion

when the ancestors’ spirits return to visit their relatives.

Festival, Bali is back again to woe fashionistas on the

Lanterns are hung to guide the ancestors home, drums

island and from around the region. This year, with over

are beaten and bon odori dances are performed at large

80 designers involved, pop-up stores, cocktail parties,

outdoor summer gatherings in parks with much revelry.

gala events and runway shows, it is set to become the

And when it’s over floating lanterns are put into rivers,

biggest event of its kind in Indonesia. The Stones Hotel,

lakes and seas in order to guide the spirits back into their

Autograph Collection, Legian Bali. 16 - 23 August

world. 9 - 17 August

Borneo Arts Festival – MALAYSIA

Fun on the Beach - Bali

By George – PENANG

The annual Legian Beach festival is back to bring this most

The George Town Festival is a month-long event that

This festival will be held in Sabah to celebrate the diversity

popular beach even more colour than usual with lots of

has turned into a proud Penang arts institution featuring

and rich cultural heritage of the island’s people and will

Balinese cultural performances, music, art, exhibitions and

arts and cultural events that includes world-class

feature shows and competitions related to the performing

food in three days of festivities. Don’t forget the sunscreen

performances to cross-cultural creative collaborations,

arts, contemporary art, fashion, food, magic shows, story

and come enjoy the beach – It’s the essence of Bali after

experimental art, traditional and contemporary performing

telling, busking, as well as the traditional arts of the region’s

all. 28 - 31 August

arts, as well as exciting local community initiatives and

indigenous peoples. 15 - 24 August

public installations. All of August.

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A Load of Bull – Bali Each year between August and October the farmers of Bali bring out their prize bulls in all their pomp and majesty for the Negara Bull Races – a ritual racing carnival where garlanded bulls are fixed to chariots and run over a grueling course to the delights of spectators with the winner becoming a stud for life. Sundays in August and September

Onam Festival – India Onam is one of the greatest festivals of Kerala where locals celebrate together without care for caste and religion.

Colourful aquatic festivals are organized along the sacred river Pamba to celebrate the homecoming of legendary King Mahabali and feature intricately decorated pookalam, snake boat races and Kaikottikali dances. 7 September

An Axe to Grind In NZ where men are men and the sheep are wooly, there’s no greater show for the axemen to show off their

Starter’s Orders - SINGAPORE Rev your engines ladies and gentleman and get into pole position for the 6th annual nighttime Singapore Grand Prix around the slick city streets of the Garden City. Be warped by the speed of these machines and dazzled by the glitz and glamour that goes along with it. Pet Shop Boys and Ziggy Marley will be performing. 19 - 21 September

Alice Desert Festival – Australia

skills to the adoring crowds than the Kawerau Woodfest & National Woodskills Competition in the North Island.

Attracting around 12,000 people during the three-day event expect lots of wood themed action and rural delights. Maybe even a battered sausage on a stick or two. 12 -14 September

Confucius Say – China

Danau Toba Festival - Indonesia

The Qufu International Confucius Festival celebrates the

The beautiful ‘island on a lake on an island’, Samosir, will

and it celebrates the desert and the diversity of people

wisdom of the ancient philosopher who is at the heart of

play host to this year’s Danau Toba Festival, high up in

that live there by sharing the stories, songs and the unique

the very being of the Chinese nation. Set in his hometown

the mountains of North Sumatra, where the culture of

lifestyle of this arid region. It offers a dynamic exchange

of Qufu in Shandong Province, celebrations include

the local Batak people will be celebrated through dance,

between cultures through art, dance and music from the

performances at the Temple and Cemetary of Confucius

song, music and food along the lush green shores of the

best the burnt nation has to offer. 10 - 14 September

and a Kung Fu competition, accompanied by ancient

world’s largest volcanic crater lake.

music and dance. 26 – 28 September

12 -14 September

This is Central Australia’s premier arts and cultural festival

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bits&PIECES BITS&PIECES

Seminyak has a new Italian The new Double Six Hotel is now open for business on the beach of the very same name in Seminyak, and with it the new restaurant Seminyak Italian Food (SIF), run by celebrated Australian/ Italian chef, Robert Marchetti. It’s on the first floor of the brand new hotel overlooking the main pool and bustling beach in front and is a casual but elegant Italian eatery with a menu that should satisfy the most fussy of Italian cuisine lovers. The wine list is also spectacular with an excellent selection of Italian wines amongst the many on offer. Join their ‘Aperitivo hour’ from 5-7pm every Friday and Saturday to enjoy a drink while the sun sets and be treated to a complimentary selection of Italian bites. SIF should become a major hit with the well-healed Seminyak crowd and it’s just the beginning as more restaurants and bars will be opening soon at this new hotel with a legendry heritage in Bali nightlife. www.double-six.com

A Night at Pandawa Cliff Estate A group of select friends of Elite Havens were invited to Pandawa Cliff Estate to experience dining at the newly-opened set of three villas on the south coast of Bali.

After being picked up by limousine we were whisked off to the Bukit, champagne in hand, in very fine style, but that was just the beginning. Sunset cocktails were next before sitting down for dinner in an outdoor dining setting of the Pala Villa. The splendid villas are set along the southern cliff’s edge of Bali’s Bukit and with music in the background, delicious food on the table, and the best wines in hand, this evening under the stars was a fantastic premier of the Pandawa Cliff Estate. www.pandawacliffestate.com

New Brunch at Mama San Mama San Sunday Brunch is definitely worth a visit for all you street-foodies visiting Bali. FRV Travel visited recently, and amongst the bustling Sunday lunchtime crowd that was flocking to the famous Asian-styled restaurant run by the street-food chef/ writer himself, Will Meyrick, excellent dishes were being placed and consumed in quick fashion on the tables of the cosmopolitan crowd. It isn’t a set brunch menu, but à la carte, meaning you choose what you want from the menu and the price would be approximately 300k per head. Great Asian delicacies await like fried pakbao, char Aui Pork Steamed Buns, steamed snapper dumplings, school of prawns with chili garlic and lime, steamed pork ribs with ginger and garlic, just to name a few off the over 30-piece brunch menu. The room is alive like any Wan Chi, Hong Kong eatery. Get to Mama San for a look and taste next Sunday. www.mamasan.com

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BITS&PIECES

K

D

T

High Season kicks off at KUDETA on August 9 with the lavish extravaganza simply known as Underwater Wonderland Bikini Day Party, then a week later on August 16 it’s the world famous celebration of dance, luxury and the good things in life with the Ancient World Of Myths and Legend’s White Party, followed on September 6 by the Old Skool Block Party to close the summer in style. And to help get everyone in the mood KDT have also just released their latest CD, KU DE TA Vol. 6, available exclusively at the KU DE TA Boutique or for download from iTunes. Bring on the good times.

Th e

Fas h i o n

F e st i va l

Bali

This August The Fashion Festival returns to Bali, with the biggest celebration of fashion, entertainment, culture and creative endeavor for everyone to enjoy, so come and be a part of the inspiring program that The Fashion Festival, Bali has to offer!

The Fashion Festival, Bali is returning again to the island of the gods and will run during the busiest period of August 2014. After the success of the inaugural event in 2013, The Fashion Festival has now set itself as Bali’s premier fashion event and a must-attend fashion gala on the national and regional fashion calendar.

The extravaganza will showcase top local and international talent across 25 world-class events, from designers and models, to fashion bloggers to DJ’s and exciting activities from sponsored partners around the island’s hot spots.

Australian label Yvonne Faye, and INDYK (Karen Wohlsen) as well as the French Bikini label Blue Glue, Capital T, the glamourous Australian swimwear label WILD ORCHID AUSTRALIA, and emerging Singapore designer Y by Yann, are just a few who will be displaying their creations. Also Jewelry label Killari will show their collection in the showroom this year, along with local and international accessories brands, for the one on one retail experience.

Local Indonesian label QONITA BATIK, God Speed and Pepitos will be showing a heritage Italian collection from Positano, Italy.

The Fashion Festival will kick off the week’s program with an opening ceremony, co-hosted by FRV Travel magazine, showcasing 30 handpicked runway looks presented by the 30 designers of this season.

Also at this year’s event, there will be over 50 exhibitors (not on the 18 l FRV Travel

runway), with about 35 per cent of the brands from Indonesia, and the rest from overseas countries such as Australia, Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, Hong Kong, Dubai, Trinidad & Tobago, Vietnam, United Kingdom, and the United States.

The event will also be attended by buyers from a wide cross-section of international stores, multi-brand stores, status stores and department and online stores from around the world.

Guests will have the opportunity to experience the week-long entertainment on offer including world-class runway shows, state- of -the-art production, beauty workshops, cultural program, exhibitions, live shopping experience in the showroom, exclusive designer hosted dinners, pool-parties, live entertainment and much more.

The Fashion Festival, Bali presented by The Stones Hotel, will be a stunning showcase of fashion, beauty, style and culture. Activities will run throughout August with the Festival’s core program of runway and culture events taking place from August 16th – 23rd. The official schedule for the 2014 season will be released on the first week of August.

For more information or to obtain a free invitation to The Fashion Festival, Bali please log onto www.thefashionfestival.com

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BITS&PIECES

Who wants to be a Movie Star?

Turn your next vacation into a real Hollywood-style movie. Whether you want to turn a proposal to your loved one into a romantic short movie, star as a pirate in a swashbuckling treasure hunt, recreate your favourite scene from a book or movie, historic battle or play yourself in your own life story, it’s all possible! The difference is, these tourists will star in the movie. John B Sutherland is launching this opportunity in Asia with a view of creating the ultimate movie-themed experience, complete with whatever props are required, art director, designer and producer, in true Hollywood style! The total process is very similar to pre-movie planning. First you submit a literary or visual narrative, which will act as a script. It will list the specific points the experience should have. Once you approve the script, they start the design process and present it in either 2D or 3D form before completing the story and the rest is cinematographic history. With the assistance of distinguished Hollywood art directors and producers anything is possible!

For more information please contact john@johnbsutherland.com

Breakfast and Sunset Options at Gado Gado The popular Seminyak restaurant has made some positive changes lately with dramatic results, and for the first time in a long time they are open for breakfast with a Gado-Gado set menu or a la carte options. It’s a great value-for-money breakfast and you can’t beat the morning views down at the beachside restaurant. Besides new dishes on both the lunch and dinner menus, there is also a very enticing set menu, only available at sunset hours from 5 - 7pm seven days a week, which includes four dining courses and three paired wines. The red and white wines are a 75ml pour but all in all, a better value for money and a greater way to experience Chef Quib’s latest dishes would be hard to find. These additions to the Gado Gado line-up have created a jump in numbers at the already popular Seminyak beach restaurant. So, make sure you call first, just in case. Tel: +62 (0)361-736-966

Saba Exclusivity Guaranteed In the heart of rural Canggu, where rice paddies meet the surf, lies Saba, a collection of four two-bedroom villas and a onebedroom villa, each named after one of the heroic Pandawa brothers from the epic Sanskrit poem, the Mahabharata.

These spacious villas can be connected via sliding garden wall panels - ideal for families and groups of friends - or made completely private. Open-sided living and dining pavilions, well-equipped kitchens, swimming pools and lush tropical gardens are standard. Guests are looked after by a team of attentive and caring staff and benefit from complimentary membership of the exclusive Canggu Club. www.sababali.com.

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BITS&PIECES

anyone for lunch?

Things are moving in the right direction at Mozaic Beachclub, Batubelig Beach with a new and economical, three course set lunch menu with a choice of three tasty entrees and mains, and finishing with a dessert. This is all for Rp 150k ++, and the lunch set menu is available Monday to Fridays. I was knocked out with how busy it is there during the days nowadays with people laying on the daybeds soaking up the rays. Stick around for dinner too as they also have a great evening set menu for Rp 300k ++. A la carte dining is also available all day and evening too.

Outlaw of Pastry Sticks to his Guns Chef Will Goldfarb has launched his first dining project in Bali at his brand new Room4Dessert, right next to Naughty Nuri’s on Jalan Sanggingan in the picturesque village of Ubud.

Here in the cultural and artistic capital of Bali, Chef Goldfarb in his own words, “has worked together with designer Giuseppe Verdacchi to present an urban vision of decadence and deliciousness.” Open from 7pm each night until late, Room4Dessert’s sultry copper bar serves the finest desserts and dessert tastings on custom porcelain from Gaya Ceramic. The design is an ongoing art piece featuring a hand painted cathedral ceiling and a reclaimed steel beam set to resemble a stage for the bar, where all desserts are made in front of the guests.

Chef Will says, “The desserts are delicious, innovative, and all made by hand in our back to basics kitchen setup. Butter, yogurt, praline

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pastes - all are ground or mixed by hand by our team of chefs, and feature the best of local ingredients from the farms of Bali.”

A dessert restaurant is an intriguing idea and especially in distant Ubud. I suppose people can wonder up from Nuri’s after dinner, but are they going to drive all the way from town to get a dessert? Hard question to answer! So, we decided to ask Goldfarb what was it all about.

Is this dessert restaurant concept a first for Bali? For sure the first in Bali - maybe Indonesia.

Is Room4Dessert supposed to be more a bar or a restaurant? It’s a dessert bar.

Do you think this is all a little eccentric?

Yes, very eccentric.

So what in fact are we looking at here?

I think the key is the dessert bar concept is unique from a dessert only pastry shop for example, and we are not a dessert restaurant really - the focus is heavy on the bar. We cook over the bar, drinks are old school prohibition, and we do a pop up family meal (Balinese) in the back yard as well, but that’s unofficial of course.

Got you intrigued? I bet it has.

Room4Dessert must be the most intriguing reason to get up to Ubud in a very long time.

And we recommend you do.

Mr. Goldfarb still directs the research and development and pastry programs at Mejekawi and KU DE TA, Seminyak, Asia’s leading lifestyle destination.

Room4Dessert. Jl Sanggingan, next to Nuri’s, Ubud. Bali.

Tel: +62(0)361-553-2598 (sms only)