L o g
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n e w s
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i n f o r m at i o n
edition 11 . 3, OCTOB ER - NOVE M BE R ‘ 1 4 Rp. 5 0.0 0 0
DINING
ULTIMO CANGGU LOCAVORE
GET AWAY
SIEM REAP PULAU BOAT CHARTER OSAKA
INSIGHT
NATHAN WAKS MRS JONES ALISTAIR TOYNE Bali babes
QURKY SIDES OF EUROPE
JAKARTA SAKE+ RIVA GRILL
BALI VILLAS
Rp. 50.000
OCEANA UMAH DAUN
d e s i g n
f o o d
a r c h i t e c t u r e
f a s h i o n
a r t
w i n e
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11.3
CONTENTS October - November 2014
FEATURES 019 New Man at Moet Hennessy A chat with Allistar Toynes, the new head of the luxury brand booze labels on the island.
038 wine stories Herman talks with winemaker Nathan Waks about his wines, his award winning winery and Bali.
058 & 068 Fashion FRV’s photographers and models are on location again.
084 Close Encounters Mark Ferrarase journeys to North Sumatra to visit the orang-utans, the Indonesian men of the forests.
088 Kansai: The land of food and shopping Trauts takes us through all the highlights of his recent trip to Osaka and beyond. Part 1
Cover FRV Bali:
Tiger striped by the shade, Alena from Balistarz is photographed by Amberly Valentine at Villa Anandita, Lombok. 6 l FRV Bali
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11.3
CONTENTS OCTOBER - NOVEMBER 2014
024 030 032 034
Ultimate Restaurant
036 040 044 048 050 052 054
RIVA BAR GRILL TERRACE
16 42 96
Ultimo and their juicy Kobe steaks.
Singing the Blues
The lady and gent behind Mrs. Jones.
Jonathan Russel on his food.
Will Meyrick takes us to the food and culture of the ancient Cambodian city.
Going Local
Ubud’s Locavore restaurant.
086 Hidden Europe Spots to make a truly unique holiday.
The new-look restaurant.
Sake & Shochu
Sake + Japanese in Jakarta.
Fresh Cuts
The best meat dishes in town.
4S@ Seminyak
Three beautiful and central villas.
Candi Dasa
Villa Oceana on the water.
Umah Daun
Architectural luxury in Bali.
082 Burjurman Luxury boating in Bali.
092 Collections
InterContinental Bali’s art.
Grand Hyatt Erawan
One of Bangkok’s finest hotels.
Bits & Pieces Cheese Directory
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48 Hours Siam Reap 078
The tasty vegetarian
3 6 Wine 6 6 Fashion Bits 1 1 2 Last Word
026 Canggu Eats
New food and good times get the once over
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P T K ubu Dua M edi a J l. Petitenget 12A, Kerobokan, Bali, Indonesia Te l. +62 361 746 3751/52 | Fa x. +62 361 847 5458 email: info@frvtravel.com www.frvtra ve l.c om Di recto r Guna wa n I nd rob a skoro Graphics Coordinator Te guh Ana nta (artwork@frvtra ve l.c om) Graphi cs Ric ky Afd i P ho to g raphy Moc h. Sulthon, R a ma d ha n, Ad a m Ra syid Di stri buti o n Nyoman Rupma Ii n I nd ra p utra , I ma m, Ma d e i nfo@frvtra ve l.c om Fi nance Sri W ita ri, B a gus Oka Mark eti ng Gina , Oc hy, Ma rio (sales@frvtravel.com) A dmi ni strati o n Dya h, Poojie , Swa n Co ntri buto rs T homa s Jone s, Da vid Tra uts, Erza ST, Nic hola s Wa lton, Rachel Love, Herman Von Ber nhardi Aguayo, Ia n Ne ub a ue r, Ve Ha nd ojo, Ra tih DP. S ubscri pti o n Yearly subscription available in Indonesia - Rupiah 200,000 Conta c t: sub sc rib e @frvtra ve l.c om Send e-mail to the above for details. Consulting Stua rt D W ilford (stua rt@frvtra ve l.c om) L eg al Asso ci ates Nyoma n Ge d e Anta guna SE, SH, MH ACS La w Offic e J l. Mertanadi 88A, Kuta, Bali. Te l: 082145689996 Fine Restaurants and Villas Travel magazine is an independent, b i -mo nthl y publ i cati o n. N ex t edi ti o n deadl i ne N o vember 15, 2014
FR V B a l i m a g a z i n e i s p r i n t e d u n d e r l i c e n s e d t r a d e m a r k . N o p a r t o f t h i s m a g a z i n e s h o u l d b e re produ c e d with ou t th e wr itte n pe r m ission of th e pu blish e r. A l l r i g h t s re s e r v e d . A r t i c l e s re f l e c t t h e o p i n i o n s o f t h e a u t h o r s , a n d n o t n e c e s s a r i l y t h o s e of t h e p u b l i s h e r s . F R V B a l i m a g a z i n e i s p r i n t e d b y P T M e g a I n d a h ( T: 0 2 1 - 6 1 9 0 5 2 9 w w w. m e g a i n d a h o ff s e t . c o m ) a n d d i s t r i b u t e d b y ; P T K u b u D u a M e d i a ( I n d o n e s i a ) , P e r i p l u s - J a v a B o o k s ( I n d o n e s i a ) , P T I n d o p ro m ( I n d o n e s i a ) , N a t i o n B o o k s ( T h a i l a n d ) . Con ta c t th e e -m a il a ddre sse s a bove f or f u r th e r in f or m a tion .
F R V B ali Mag az ine
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E dit io n 1 1 . 3
Oct o ber - No v ember ‘1 4
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Editor’s Note FRV Bali – It takes you places FRV continues to evolve as it has done since the magazine first began over 10 years ago. The new masthead, FRV Bali signifies a more Bali focus but still keeping the regional content and some getaway, holiday stories to spice up the read. In the ever-changing landscape of this island, FRV magazine continues to change and develop with it. Food is the star as always inside these pages and in this edition Masha takes a look at chef Elke’s new project in Ubud, Locavore which has been turning food loving heads for all the right reasons since opening earlier this year. Our old friend Jono has also set up shop in the hills of Ubud with his new restaurant The Elephant which continues his love all things vegetarian – and not surprisingly tasty vegetarian at that. Canggu has been developing fast in recent years and with it has come a bunch of interesting and sometimes quirky dining options – just the way we like it – Masha again gets on her bike
to have a taste of Canggu. One of the great shining lights of dining over the past ten years in the Oberoi part of Seminyak is fast approaching a milestone and also has an excellent selection of top quality dishes that you may not be aware of - Trauts books a table at Ultimo once again. Erza ST also visits two completely different and new restaurants in the Indonesian capital, the Japanese inspired Sake and the meaty Prime Cuts. FRV also stays in four distinct luxury accommodations here in Bali and around the region. You could possibly be reading this magazine in one of them right now. Also inside we have trips to Siem Reap and Osaka Japan, visit orangutans in northern Sumatra, and a day trip out on a luxury launch right out of Benoa harbour – now that is the way to spend a day! I hope you enjoy this edition of FRV Bali and any comments or requests e-mail me at editor@frvtravel.com FRV CONTRIBUTORS
David Trauts This English correspondent started The Beat magazine many years ago and then the group’s flagship, FRV. This edition has been mostly Bali for Trauts with visits to Ultimo, Four Seasons Jimbaran, and enjoying a very busy high season on the island. Mixed in there was a short and interesting trip to Osaka Japan.
Erza S.T. The opera loving, winter traveler-cum-food critic was on another mission to try two of Jakarta’s latest dining and hang out places. See what he’s got to say on the Japanese Sake, and the steaks at Prime Cuts. He also shares some quirky moments in Europe.
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Thomas Jones Water features big in Thomas’ agenda this edition with a Candi Dasa beach holiday and a trip to Nusa Penida aboard the luxury cabin cruiser, Burjurman, where fun and adventure under the sun are the order of the day. It’s a tough life spent in paradise, but someone has to do it.
Rachel Love Told by a fortune teller that her life would take a dramatic change in a move to the East, she arrived in Bali with a few hundred pounds and a vision to fulfill a lifelong dream of being a writer on a tropical island. FRV’s resident arts writer, Rachel writes extensively on all things lifestyle and travel related.
Nick Walton Nick has been writing on travel for over 10 years, including most recently as the travel editor for the South China Morning Post. From his home in Hong Kong he regularly travels throughout Asia and beyond, looking for new experiences, trends and destinations, both for his travel pieces in over 60 magazines globally, as well as his weekly radio show.
Ian Neubauer Ian is a Sydney-based freelance journalist specializing in adventure travel. He has reported extensively across East Asia and the South Pacific for many publications. He is also the author of two travel novels, Getafix (2004) and Maquis (2006), and an advocate for Topu Honis, an orphanage and women’s shelter in East Timor.
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bits&PIECES BITS&PIECES
Bali's Best Lawn Party Bali’s biggest and best Melbourne Cup lawn party is back on the first Tuesday of November as the manicured grounds of the Canggu Club will be transformed into a gala affair set to rival any trackside action. Perfect for racing enthusiasts, Spring Carnival fashionistas or simply those seeking a cracking good time, the Canggu Club is offering an option for everyone. Take in the elegance of the Moet Marquee, a swanky sit down affair delivering delicious canapes, a three-course lunch on the lawn and three hours of free flow Moet & Chandon Champagne, beer, wines and soft drinks. Or, for those who prefer to mix and mingle, the Chandon Cocktail Party with chilled Chandon bubbles, Babich wines or frosty Bintangs and choice of tasty canapes might be more your scene. Multiple screens throughout the venue means you won’t miss a moment of race day action or any fun on the field. Punters can get straight down to business when gates open at 10am and free flow packages for the Moet Marquee or Chandon Cocktail Party commence from 11am. Sensational entertainment by Ian Moss of ‘Cold Chisel’ and Natalie Gillespie from ‘Yothu Yindi’ guarantees fun, music and dancing throughout the afternoon and into the evening as the race day party continues until 8pm. November 4. Tickets are from Rp900k, information and bookings, visit www. Cangguclub.com
C e n ta r a c om e s t o Ba l i Centara Grand Villas Nusa Dua Bali opened in August in Nusa Dua, and features 14 luxury pool villas offering a choice of one, two and three bedrooms, and are all set in an extensive garden area that guarantees privacy and seclusion for guests. The villas are designed in Peranakan style with spacious interiors, marble floors, and the rich tones of teak and rosewood furnishings, and each has its own private swimming pool complete with large sundeck, loungers and a pool shower. Among the facilities are two signature restaurants, a bar, a swimming pool, the executive club lounge, spa and fitness centre, meeting rooms, and a Chrysler limousine service. Despite its seclusion, the resort is within walking distance of Bali Nusa Dua Convention Centre, while the island’s airport is only a 15-minute drive away. www.centarahotelsresorts.com
Two Culinary Visionaries, One Special Location Critically acclaimed chef/owner of the award winning restaurant Mozaic Gastronomique, Chris Salans, is to host Ryan Clift, chef owner of top Singapore restaurant Tippling Club (Miele Award Top 20 in Asia & Drinks International ‘World’s 20 Best Bars’). The very special eight-course tasting menu, each course paired with Chef Clift’s signature cocktails, will take place on Saturday October 25 2014 at Sea Salt by Mozaic at Mozaic Beachclub, a new dining concept by Mozaic. Price and menu to be confirmed. Chef Clift’s brand of modern French gastronomy is fun, playful and fresh and will be infused with Chef Salans’ masterful use of Indonesian flavors showcasing the best the two Chefs have to offer. This is Chef Clift’s cooking debut in Bali and is not to be missed by serious food lovers. For reservations, please inquire at info@mozaic-beachclub.com or contact us at: +62 361 473 5796 14 l FRV Bali
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BITS&PIECES
T H E
E D I T O R S
D I S H
Th e e d i to r se le ct s o n e o f h i s favo ri te s a round B al i
CO U SCO U S
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M ETI S
The Couscous on Wednesday lunch times at Metis has been a everlasting favorite of many people on the island, not just me. It’s an institution and if I’m in town I will make the effort to be there on Wednesdays to get my couscous hit for the week. Since it is only available at Metis one time a week you better make sure that you have it logged into your phone calendar or you might just miss it. The Couscous is a great meat smorgasbord with chucks of lamb, chicken, beef in the broth and Merguez sausage. There are also a load of vegetables in the tasty bowl of broth and it comes with secret recipe spices and glazed onions to complement the ample amount of couscous semolina. The couscous is co-proprietor, Said Alem’s secret recipe and pride of the Metis table. Rp90k.
B U B B L E S F A S H I O N
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A sophisticated evening of fashion and bubbles at Bali’s one and only whisky bar, Single Malt on Jalan Laksmana Oberoi where Ali Charisma showed his latest range of haute couture and welcome drinks were supplied by the very popular sparkling Chandon. Some great tunes were spun by Glynn Tandy till late and the night helped to make a hit off this year’s memorable Bali high season.
A N IN S PI R IN G U NI C E F C H A R IT Y E V ENT The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali has announced that its next UNICEF Check Out For Children charity event will take place at the Mangupura Hall, Bali International Convention Centre on Friday, 31st October 2014, featuring rising Indonesian star, Nowela and Petra Sihombing. As the winner of Indonesian Idol 2014, Papuan-born Nowela has a soulful voice that transcends all musical genres. She will sing an upbeat selection of hits during this lively performance. Multi-talented Petra Sihombing is currently enjoying chart-topping success with his feel-good brand of music. Nowela and Petra will meet and greet fans at Prego restaurant with an interactive sharing session followed by high tea. The main event will then commence at 7pm featuring solo performances by both singers. There will also be a heartfelt musical collaboration with children who will be chosen from the best performers from leading musical schools around Bali. Tickets for this annual charity event are priced at just IDR 100,000 per person. Limited places for the musical rendezvous at Prego will also be available for IDR 375,000 per person including an elegant high tea featuring sweet and savory treats. All proceeds will be donated directly to UNICEF to a project that provides educational opportunities and vaccinates children across the Asia Pacific region. www.westin.com/bali 16 l FRV Bali
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BITS&PIECES
R EG EN T T O F A I R M O NT The Regent Bali in Sanur will be joining Fairmont Hotels & Resorts and be rebranded as the Fairmont Sanur, thus becoming part of the new management company’s family of over 110 hotels operating worldwide, which includes Raffles and Swissotel. The beachside hotel, which opened in June 2013, is the only all-suite beachfront resort in Sanur. Nestled within four hectares of lush tropical gardens, with two exceptional restaurants and a lobby lounge overlooking the ocean. Luxury services include 24-hourbutler service and in-villa / suite dining and a kids club As The Regent Hotel, it garnered many awards including Condé Nast Traveller’s 2014 Hot List (UK), a 2014 Certificate of Exellence fromTripAdvisor, as well as a nomination for Asia’s Leading New Resort 2014 by WorldTravel Awards. Here’s to many more!
The Bali Role Models Awards and Benefit Night The premier women’s awards in Bali are returning for the third time on Saturday 22nd November, at Conrad Resort, Nusa Dua. Hosted by Bali WISE Foundation, The Bali Role Model Awards and Benefit Night are a celebration of the inspirational work of Women from Bali and elsewhere and a chance for them to be recognised. Nominees so far include Janet DeNeefe (Women’s Cultural Champion), and Melati and Isabel Wijsen of Bye Bye Plastic Bags (High School Role Model). To go with the awards are cocktails and canapés, a luxury three course menu designed by Conrad’s own master chef David Laval, live music, auctions and other entertainment. Tickets are IDR 1,000,000 and for reservations or to request a nomination form for inspirational women and girls you know, please contact events@baliwise.org.
The New Canggu Clu b Set on a sprawling four hectare estate amongst the rice fields of Canggu and yet only a 10 minute drive to Seminyak, the “New” Canggu Club is Bali’s premier entertainment & sporting venue where everyone is welcome. After a period of renovation, Canggu Club now features Splash Water Park, Strike Ten Pin Bowling, Bounce Trampoline Centre, Fitness Centre including lap pool and sports ground, Tennis Centre, Body Temple Spa, Cubby House Kids Club, Sports Bar, multiple restaurants plus much more. For those with children the Junior Sports Academy (JSA) offers daily sports programs where children from 6 to 16 years can learn the skills of Tennis, Soccer, Basketball, Swimming, Dancing, Gymnastics, Trampoline, Ten Pin Bowling plus more whilst having fun & making friends. Photos to the left are of the opening party at the club in September. 18 l FRV Bali
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BITS&PIECES
new m a n at MÖet Hennessy
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There really is no place like Bali. It’s a ‘buffet’ of experiences, day or night. Alistair Toyne is the Senior Business Development Manager (Emerging Markets) of Möet Hennessy which represents the luxury beverage brands of LVMH Group; Möet & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, Dom Perignon champagnes, Belvedere vodka and a multitude of other top brands of alcohol beverage. He is Australian/Canadian and recently moved to Bali from Sydney after 10 years with the same company overseeing the sales and marketing of the very same products in the land down under. If you haven’t noticed a sudden resurgence of these brands in the public eye around the island in recent months, you must have been napping. The Junction Festival sponsored by Belvedere Vodka, our very own Fashion and Bubbles sponsored by Chandon at Single Malt, Nasi Jinggo by Belvedere at Merah Putih restaurant have just been a few where his brands have been plastered from head to toe. FRV spoke to the new lad on the block to see what it is all about. How did you get involved in all this alcohol business? Where did it begin? Alistair Toyne: I’d moved to Australia and found a job in a local bottle shop on the northern beaches of Sydney. I worked there for three years and I fell in love with the wine industry and all that surrounds it. After a stack of rejection letters I finally landed a job with the distributor of Louis Roederer for four years. When LVMH came to Australia in 2003 I decided this was my next train and I have been there ever since. Is Bali any different to Sydney in the way people drink or party? Bottle service on the island is a big difference I find - Australian drinking laws are getting very tight and affecting the bar trade in the city. Things here are more relaxed and holidaymakers like to make the most of it by splurging out at night either at dinner or a
night club. There is so much variety on the island, amazing restaurants and cafes, night clubs and sunset venues, there is something for everyone to sink their teeth into. What do you mean Australian drinking laws are getting tight? Bottle service is not allowed in venues in Australia, there is now a 2am lock out rule, and there are no shots or glasses allowed. Kings Cross is a prime example. No wonder there are so many Aussies here. Any other reasons Bali is such a great place to socialise? I’d say holidaymakers like to squeeze the most into they’re time here - it’s a place where people like to let their hair down and shake off the cobwebs from wherever they have come from. There really is no place like Bali. It’s a ‘buffet’ of experiences, day or night. How does your job differ here in Bali? Ensuring my distribution teams don’t run out of stock is a big one. Taxes on alcohol are huge so distributors are reluctant to hold large volumes of stock. My day to day job is finding homes for my brands which keeps the flow of stock steady from Jakarta. Having the right brands in the right outlet is a good recipe for success. Tell me about LVMH Möet Hennessy. How long has the company been in existence and how do they manage to have so many luxury brands and labels? They also own Louis Vuitton correct? We sure do!! Möet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA (LVMH) is a French-based luxury goods company established in 1987. It owns a portfolio of luxury brands and its business activities are divided into five business groups: Wines and spirits, fashion and leather goods, perfumes and cosmetics, watches and jewellery, and selective retailing. The list of
products is immense. Working for LVMH has given me unforgettable experiences and travel throughout the globe. A few years back I won a high achievement award which sent me on a study trip through all our Maisons in France. A favourite moment was sitting with Richard Geoffroy (Chef de Cave-Creator of Dom Perignon since 1990) and a select group drinking a library of Dom Perignon starting with 1962 through the 1970’s, 1980’s and 1990’s, finally finishing on a Dom Perignon Rose 1996. We sat in the famous abbey all night spooning ourselves caviar and talking about god knows what... I’m sure we saved the world a number of times that night whatever we were speaking of! Is there a reason why Möet Hennessy has brought you to Bali now? Does it mean Bali is now a confirmed luxury destination? Bali is a luxury playground for our brands as well as other destinations of Indonesia. Private villas and luxury hotels are a very important growth area to our business. I suppose we’ll be seeing more of your product around the bars and restaurants of Bali. Where are some of the more popular places you are now stocking Belvedere and Möet & Chandon? And what events will you be sponsoring in the near future? Belvedere is at Merah Putih, Jenja, Petitenget, Semara Resorts & Finns Beach Club. Möet & Chandon is at Metis, Barbacoa, Double Six Hotel, Red Carpet and Sky Garden to name a few. Veuve Clicquot now has a home at Bulgari Luxury Resort. Soon Möet & Chandon will be assisting with the Melbourne Cup at Canggu Club, there will be Clicquot Friday nights at Petitenget Café and soon Belvedere will be aligning with a very exciting project in the Oberoi area in October. FRV
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Chalina Estate Channelling the energy of its beautiful surroundings, Chalina Estate captures the true essence of Bali with its classic architecture, lush tropical gardens and rice-field views. The villa’s serene and peaceful riverside setting makes it the ultimate choice for weddings and special retreats. Fully staffed with seven large bedrooms, a deluxe 30-metre swimming pool and lavish living areas featuring a unique mix of modern art and exotic artefacts, this exquisite villa exudes space and charm. Located in the rural district of Canggu, just minutes from some of Bali’s most revered surf beaches, Chalina Estate offers incredible sunsets with glimpses of the mystical Batukaru volcano in the distance. www.chalinavillaestate.com
Penthouse on top of the world Sea Sentosa recently opened their display penthouse to guests and media to have a sneak peek around the recently finished top floor and top class apartment. The views over Canggu beach from the two level penthouse are literally breathtaking and the design and finishing is total luxury. While the entire complex is still some way from completion, according to Ian Charles, sales manager at Sea Sentosa, there are only 15 units left for sale from the 68 built. The grand opening of the beach club, which will be operated by Aussie restaurateurs of Sydney’s Icebergs fame, is slated to be held in the first quarter of 2015. Contact: ian_c@seasentosa.com
F o u r S e a s o n s P U R E ® T DA Fa c i a l s Four Seasons Resort in Jimbaran is offering a brand new facial treatment - the PURE® TDA Facial system which is a therapy system that transports PURE’s concentrated supercharged bio-active ingredients, at supersonic speed and frequency, directly to the dermis (the lower layers of the skin) via a computer-guided applicator. This sounds highly scientific and actually is. The PURE TDA Facial begins with a cleansing programme followed by the PURE CELL dermabrasion, where finely ground sapphire crystals smooth and prepare the skin. This enhances the uptake of one of the highly targeted serums – delivered to the skin via a unique TDA applicator – penetrating deep into the dermis. The therapy concludes with a skin nourishing and hydrating PURE® COVER mask. There are no painful moments of squeezing or pinching like a traditional facial, as the skin is rejuvenated from within. “The potent and high-performance PURE® TDA Facials pair nature’s healing ingredients with skilled science to affect outer beauty and inner change, physically renewing the skin and emotionally boosting self-confidence,” says Regional Director of Spa, Luisa Anderson of the new therapy. This new treatment is now available at Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay. More info from www.pure-tda.com and book by calling +62 361 701010. 22 l FRV Bali
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