FRV Bali 11.4

FA S H I O N R E S TAU R A N T S & V I L L A S BALI & SOUTHEAST ASIAN STYLE

EDITION 11.4 DEC '14 - JAN '15

DINING U M A L AS , B OW, SA RO N G , MEJEK AW I

VI L L AS K A BA K A BA , AY U N G , T IRTA N ILA

FAS H I O N L A SA L , B LUE GLUE, FAS H IO N TEN DA N CE

T RAV EL

Rp. 50.000

R I N JA N I , N ihiwatu, THA ILA N D

V I L L A S

f ood

T R A V E L

f as h ion

art

w ine

FRV Bali l 1 resta u rants

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FA S H I O N R E S TAU R A N T S & V I L L A' S B A L I & S O U T H E A S T A S I A n style

56 AY UN G R ESORT ONE O F UB U D ’ S MO R E ECLECTIC RES O RTS

64&74 BA LI FASH ION

Blue Glue & La Sal in the lens

90 TH E SPICE ISLANDS M O R E T H A N MEETS T HE MO LUCCA N EYE

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88

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ZERMATT

NIH IWAT U

THE TOWN UNDER THE

SU M BA’S M OST B EAU TIFU L

MATTERHORN

RESORT

COVE R FRV

F E AT U R E S

M o de l: Ch i ka M ai lo a

CONTENTS

Ph oto : Adam Rasy i d

Lo c at i o n : La Sal

EDITION 11.4 DEC - JAN

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20 22 24 26 34 36 40 44 46 52 94 98 102

T h e Barber S hop SOLO M en’ s trad styling is enjoying a come back

ME JA K AWI G R ILL S ee what ’ s cooking under the hood at Ku

SA RONG S ES S IONS WILL MEYRICK ’ S IN THE K IT CHEN S OF EAST JAVA

TA K E A B OW

30 U M A LAS K IT C H ENS A TOU R OF THE SLEEPY V ILLAGE’S B EST E ATS

A S EN SAT IO N A L RUSTIC RESTAURANT IN BATU B ELIG

KR EOL K ITC HE N A CH AT W ITH CREO LE CO O K A N N IK LE B RASSE

QATA R B US INES S C LASS A SW IS S T HERE A N D BA CK A G A IN I N STY LE

P LATA RA N P E RA N A K A N CO O K IN G JA K A RTA STY LE

DOING THE RUMBA S E MIN YA K ’ S HIP N EW N IG HT H AUNT

48 M EYR IC K ’ S VIET NA M 48 HOURS IN HOI AN AND NA TRANG WI T H T H E M AN HIM SELF

BA NG KOK B RUNC H FO UR PERF ECT H O URS AT TA BLES GRILL

VILLA K A BA K A BA RA IS IN G T HE BA R O N BA LI VILLAS ONCE AGAIN

S UM MIT OR B UST LOMBO K ’ S MT. RIN JA N I W ITHO UT A GU IDE

60 T IRTA NILA

T HE BA RA I

CANDI DASA’S B EST V ILLA ADDRESS

TA K IN G K RA BI BY THE LUXURY H O RNS

P E NNY WE N A WO MA N W ITH T HE WO RLD O F A RT IN HER HANDS

1 4 Bits & Pieces 4 2 Cheese 1 0 8 Directory

3 8 Wine 7 2 Fashion Bits 1 2 2 Last Word

104 Family Love The artwork of Iman Ritma

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P T K ubu Dua M edi a J l. Petitenget 12A, Kerobokan, Bali, Indonesia Te l. +62 361 746 3751/52 | Fa x. +62 361 847 5458 email: info@frvtravel.com www.frvtra ve l.c om Di recto r Guna wa n I nd rob a skoro Graphics Coordinator Te guh Ana nta (artwork@frvtra ve l.c om) Graphi cs Ric ky Afd i P ho to g raphy Moc h. Sulthon, R a ma d ha n, Ad a m Ra syid Di stri buti o n Ii n I nd ra p utra , I ma m, Ma d e , Pur na i nfo@frvtra ve l.c om Fi nance Sri W ita ri, B a gus Oka Mark eti ng Gina , Oc hy, Ma rio (sales@frvtravel.com) A dmi ni strati o n Dya h, Poojie , Swa n Co ntri buto rs T homa s Jone s, Da vid Tra uts, Erza ST, Nic hola s Wa lton, Rachel Love, Herman Von Ber nhardi Aguayo, Ia n Ne ub a ue r, Ve Ha nd ojo, Ra tih DP. S ubscri pti o n Yearly subscription available in Indonesia - Rupiah 200,000 Conta c t: sub sc rib e @frvtra ve l.c om Send e-mail to the above for details.

Consulting Stua rt D W ilford (stua rt@frvtra ve l.c om) L eg al Asso ci ates Nyoma n Ge d e Anta guna SE, SH, MH ACS La w Offic e J l. Mertanadi 88A, Kuta, Bali.

Te l: 082145689996 Fine Restaurants and Villas Bali magazine is an independent, b i -mo nthl y publ i cati o n. N ex t edi ti o n deadl i ne J anuary 15, 2015

FRVBali FR V B a l i m a g a z i n e i s p r i n t e d u n d e r l i c e n s e d t r a d e m a r k . N o p a r t o f t h i s m a g a z i n e s h o u l d b e re produ c e d with ou t th e wr itte n pe r m ission of th e pu blish e r.

A l l r i g h t s re s e r v e d . A r t i c l e s re f l e c t t h e o p i n i o n s o f t h e a u t h o r s , a n d n o t n e c e s s a r i l y t h o s e of t h e p u b l i s h e r s . F R V B a l i m a g a z i n e i s p r i n t e d b y P T M e g a I n d a h ( T: 0 2 1 - 6 1 9 0 5 2 9 w w w. m e g a i n d a h o ff s e t . c o m ) a n d d i s t r i b u t e d b y ; P T K u b u D u a M e d i a ( I n d o n e s i a ) , P e r i p l u s - J a v a B o o k s ( I n d o n e s i a ) , P T I n d o p ro m ( I n d o n e s i a ) , N a t i o n B o o k s ( T h a i l a n d ) .

Con ta c t th e e -m a il a ddre sse s a bove f or f u r th e r in f or m a tion .

F R V B ali Mag az ine

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E dit io n 1 1 .4

D ecember ‘1 4 - J anuary ‘ 1 5

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Editor’s Note FRV Travel – It takes you places It’s the festive season again and with that comes the good times and the New Year’s cheer once more. Before you know it we will be as busy as ever again on the streets of Bali with foreign and domestic tourists arriving in their thousands; and let’s give them all a rousing welcome. Because of course without them most of us would have nothing much to do. Yes, it’s a busy time over the Christmas New Year period and with it comes the rains, which chills down the climate and lets us all breath a sigh of relief after these heavy hot days that we have been experiencing on the island over the past couple of months. Many local people prefer the wet season to the dry, as when the rain comes down it’s a time to rejoice. Indeed let it come down but make sure the roof doesn’t have any leaks first.

With this edition of FRV Bali we are also rejoicing a little. After months of work we’ve arrived at a new look and feel for the magazine which has now been around the bookstores and restaurant tables of the country for

over ten years. We are proud to present this new-look FRV to you as we say goodbye to 2014 and with a very open-armed welcome to the New Year. Finishing this edition feels to me like I’ve been holed up in a log cabin in the mountains for days trying to get it finished. But in fact I’ve been stuck in front of my computer in an apartment in Jakarta – more or less the same thing when it comes to a magazine deadline. It’s just the concentration on all those words and images that matters and nothing else counts.

You will find plenty to entertain you inside this edition of FRV Bali including local and distant food, trips away to exotic places and stays in luxury villas around the region— just like always. A special thanks goes to our graphics guru TJolin, who puts up with a lot around here.

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you all.

FRV CONTRIBUTORS

David Trauts This English correspondent started The Beat magazine many years ago and then the group’s flagship, FRV. This edition Trauts had a wonderful stay up in Ubud at the Ayung Resort, then met up with one of the main men in barber shops in Indonesia for a chat and once again dined at Will Meyrick’s table.

Erza S.T. As a winter traveler, Erza S.T. is not really amused by the sun and sea.

However the beauty of Krabi, Huahin and Sumba Island mesmerized this opera lover and actually did make some discoveries under the sun.

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Thomas Jones Thomas travels back to the Spice Islands after a five-year gap, but this time it’s with the wind in the sails of a luxury phinisi schooner, a far better mode of travel than the local ferry service by far. Don’t miss his report on an amazing brunch in Bangkok that gets a special mention inside this issue.

Rachel Love Told by a fortune teller that her life would take a dramatic change in a move to the East, she arrived in Bali with a few hundred pounds and a vision to fulfill a lifelong dream of being a writer on a tropical island. FRV’s resident arts writer, Rachel writes extensively on all things lifestyle and travel related.

Nick Walton Nick has been writing on travel for over 10 years, including most recently as the travel editor for the South China Morning Post. From his home in Hong Kong he regularly travels throughout Asia and beyond, looking for new experiences, trends and destinations, both for his travel pieces in over 60 magazines globally, as well as his weekly radio show.

Ian Neubauer Ian is a Sydney-based freelance journalist specializing in adventure travel. He has reported extensively across East Asia and the South Pacific for many publications. He is also the author of two travel novels, Getafix (2004) and Maquis (2006), and an advocate for Topu Honis, an orphanage and women’s shelter in East Timor.

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bits&PIECES G i v i n g

B a c k

When people think of the Canggu Club, the first thoughts are often socializing expats, waterparks and sports, but what may not be so well known is that behind the scene they are relentless in their efforts to raise money for the charitable organisations such as Solemen and the Jodie O’Shea Orphanage, who work closely with the less fortunate members of the Balinese community to alleviate suffering and support the disadvantaged. Canggu Club’s Melbourne Cup Lawn Party raised over US$ 16,500 alone for Solemen, bringing Canggu Club’s total contribution during 2014 to more than US$ 22,333. The Club has opened its doors to the kids to enjoy trampolining, ten pin bowling, and later this month, over 90 of them will enjoy a day on the slides at Splash Waterpark along with a Christmas Day. If you want to get involved and buy a present for any of the kids, please drop a line to the club and enquire how you can bring a smile of Christmas joy to the more needy in Bali. info@cangguclub.com

Indonesia Air Asia Extra takes off for Melbourne

Indonesia Air Asia Extra launched their new direct flight from Bali to Melbourne at a presentation at The Stones bar and restaurant in Kuta last month and the first flight takes off to Melbourne on Boxing Day, December 26, 2014.

According to representatives at the launch, the Bali – Melbourne route was introduced to accommodate the surging demand for flights between Indonesia and Australia. Foreign arrivals jumped more than 13% last year and 25 % of them were Australians. The new flights will be operated by Airbus A330-300s, with a configuration of 12 business class seats and 365 economy sets, and will be flying five days a week. Air Asia also expects more Australians to be able to take advantage of low cost travel and hassle free connections through Bali to further Asian destinations through the Air Asia group.

MOZAIC DINNER A CHRISTMAS TRIP TO TRUFFLE HEAVEN ‘Tis the season to be splurging, so head on down to Mozaic Beachclub on Saturday, December 6th for their 5th Annual White Truffle Dinner, their highly anticipated feast of hand-picked white truffles which are collected from the sun-kissed hills of Beni Di Batasiolo estate in Northern Italy and flown express to Bali for the enjoyment of you, the select few. Expertly paired with fine Italian wines from the Piedmont region, the six-course degustation is priced at Rp. 1.4 million ++ and will surely be a sell out. To RSVP for a table, email info@mozaicbeachclub.com, or call +62 (0)361 473 5796

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BITS&PIECES

T H E

E D I T O R ’ S

D I S H

Th e edi to r se l e ct s one of his favourite s a ro und B a l i

prawn cocktail | Chez Gad o Gado Another great Bali lunch choice is down at Seminyak Beach’s Chez Gado Gado restaurant. The prawn cocktail with Chef Quib’s secret spicy cocktail sauce and a mountain of juicy prawns mixed in a bed of finely sliced salad has been a long time favourite. Combine that with the asparagus with nicoise vinaigrette under slices of Parmesan cheese, which is also off the Cold Starters list on the menu, and you are in for one delicious and healthy lunch by the sea.

METIS NEW CHEF MÉTIS Restaurant, Lounge and Gallery in Seminyak, Bali, has a new executive chef; a Semarang native, Desyanto Nugroho, is a man with over 20 years experience in the kitchen who told FRV recently that he relishes the opportunity to help take the iconic Petitenget restaurant to new heights of culinary excellence. Besides working in top restaurants he also won the prestigious nationwide cooking competition ‘Top Chef Indonesia’ in 2013.

WATERFALL BAY VILLA Set on a lush hillside just minutes away from Kamala Beach, the five-bedroom Waterfall Bay Villa is a tranquil sea-view escape.

Restore your senses in this tropical holiday home complete with a swimming pool, spa room, cinema room and elaborate bedroom suites. Fully staffed, including private chef and driver. www. onewaterfallbay.com

H U J AN LOCALE PO U R S IN U B U D The Sarong Group has done it again and has opened its latest restaurant Hujan Locale up in the hub of Bali’s cultural and arts world, Ubud. A twist on traditional Indonesian food, Hujan serves a combination of dishes found in the backstreet kitchens of southeast Asia, focusing on slow grassroot’s cooking. Incorporating Will’s Scottish background and love of Asian cuisine, expect ‘Thai burgers’ or a whole roasted pig head - a fusion of East meets West, with a focus on seasonality and provenance of ingredients. Hujan, meaning rain, will focus the essentials of cuisine with a “found and foraged” philosophy, and is a manifestation of Chef Will Meyrick’s desire to return to creating smaller restaurants with slow-cooked food. Will, together with his “chef in crime” Palm Amatawet, alongside chefs Tim Bartholomew and Stuart Marsden, now embark on this culinary adventure using the best of local ingredients, sourced from local farmers and fostering stronger links with the surrounding community. The new restaurant is situated on Jl Sri Wedari, Ubud.

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BITS&PIECES

What’s on the table for Christmas?

The Christmas tables will be fair heaving with goodies and treats from Santa’s hamper this December 25, with Bali’s best restaurants pulling out all the stops to create a cracker of a day for all those who hate the idea of cooking at home. KuDeTa has a four-course feast in its restaurant with turkey, smoked Danish ham, Moroccan grilled sword fish and a black forest dessert as well as a Christmas pudding and a kids menu. Mozaic is offering up a gastronommic, six-course, wine-paired degustation lunch with champagne as an added bonus. Warisan is covering both Christmas Day and Eve with either a three-or a four-course lunch and dinner with some crispy duck, sea-bass and some festively-spiced salmon. While Metis is also catering to both days with a secret spread of delicacies that will have your mouth watering in anticipation. Whatever you choose, these are all unmissable feasts; the hard part will just be deciding whose chimney you want to climb down. Check FRVBali. com for more details of Christmas and New Years Eve offerings.

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If anyone didn’t notice, Nikki Beach Bali is now open. It’s the brand’s 12th permanent beach club and restaurant location in the world and located on the beach at the 5-star Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort. Nikki Beach Bali is a multifaceted, picture-perfect beachfront venue with stunning panoramic views of the Indian Ocean. Adorned with plush, all-white sun beds guests are able to spend their days and evenings indulging in refreshing cocktails, endless champagne and an extensive menu of delectable dishes representative of all the countries Nikki Beach is located and popular Balinese cuisine including delicious salads, creative sushi rolls, original seafood entrees and slow-roasted free-range rotisserie chicken. The oceanfront beach club and restaurant includes a pool, indoor and outdoor dining options, opium beds and multiple bars including a swim-up cocktail bar. Special events are a specialty, so look out for the Grand Opening White Party on December 6th, 2014 to mark Nikki Beach Bali’s debut, The Champagne World Tour, Sun Kissed Saturdays, Amazing Sunday Brunch, Brazilian Party and Welcome to St. Tropez party, among many others. The attentive & friendly service, lavish themedevents, exceptional cuisine, music & entertainment coupled together with the all-around ambiance and hospitality that the brand is known for around the world, will make Nikki Beach Bali the most luxurious haven of choice for the world’s jet-set, VIP and celebrity clientele and in the process lift the bar even higher on this glamorous island.

Managed by

FESTIVE SEASON IS HERE Christmas is around the corner.

Contact us for our new Christmas menu and packages.

Turkeys are limited this year, call us to order asap before stock runs out!

Jl. Petitenget 45, Kerobokan, Kuta 80361, Bali - Indonesia.

T. +62 361 473 2115, 401 3110, 473 7324 F. +62 361 473 7325 info@balicateringcompany.com www.balicateringcompany.com

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Laurentino. Now that’s a pretty fancy name. How did you manage to achieve that moniker?

Ha ha, it only sounds fancy, believe me. My family was living like nomads in Europe, moving from one country to another.

My mother’s Indonesian and my father’s from Holland.

They probably picked up the name Laurentino somewhere.

Probably a restaurant owner or waiter ha ha.

So I imagine you have been in a number of barber shops over there in Europe. How do they differ to the common barber shop in this part of the world?

For me there are two types of barber shops: The classic barber shop and the new sub-culture barber shop. The ones I visit in Europe and in The States are the classic barber shops; a 60 year old barber with a lot of life experience. So they are more than just a barber, they are more like your life consultant. They often have the best advice to your problems.

Some friends of mine are closer to their barber than to their own parents. Meanwhile, most of the barbers here in Indonesia are very talented and maybe even more talented than the ones in The States or in Europe, but unfortunately they are still lacking in communication skills.

Although lately I did notice that a lot of barbers are more confident communicating with customers. Bravo! Another difference is that the barbers own/operate the shops in the West but that isn’t the case here in Indonesia with the “new” barber shops. The new barbers here are in the 20s. We need to find a way to motivate the barbers to open their own shops in Indonesia! My company Barbers Pomade is working on a program now by giving barbers a chance to open their own shops. We will assist them with making a business plan, advice etc. In my opinion this is the way to get more classic barber shops back in Indonesia.

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How about from a business point of view?

Th e BaR beR s hop R e nai s s an ce The new Barber shop craze has been finding a lot of

From an entrepreneur’s point of view, it’s an easy concept, you just have to be very creative. The business structure is interesting and straight forward, low staff expenses, and less risk for the owner. Unlike opening a restaurant, it’s a safer bet to open a barber shop. Also pomade is getting so popular now that a barber shop can make a good living from the pomade sales alone and cover a lot of its expenses at the same time.

traction around Indonesia in the past year. They are the new cool for upwardly mobile gents of the modern age, so FRV took the opportunity to speak with Laurentino Tian, a man up to his proverbial pomaded quiff in the business about what this retro new hair styling is all about.

How many of these new barbers do you think are now operating around Indonesia?

I think we’re talking about 60 to 70 “new” barber shops all over the country. This number might surprise you how low it is, but considering that there were only about 20 in all of Indonesia at the beginning of this year, I think it’s a very high growth in the barber industry. And more are on the way.

Of course barber shops were very popular in the past, but why the sudden resurgence now?

More men are experiencing the barber shops now because it fits their lifestyle. No reservations, because most of them only have a walk-in policy. They have no problem waiting for their barber if he’s busy. They can enjoy a nice chat with other customers or read a magazine. I totally respect the salon industry, don’t get me wrong, but going to a barber shop is a very male experience.

Quality time between father and son is popular now at barber shops as well. Some of the shops are even giving away father and son discounts. You can talk about cars, yesterday’s football match, about everything actually.

So what exactly is pomade?

There are two types of pomade; petroleum-based and waterbased. Petroleum-based pomades are the original kind.

Traditionally they are made with a mixture of oil, petroleum and wax to produce the shine and hold. Water-based pomades, on the other hand, are water soluble making them easier to wash out of the hair than actual grease.

Pomade’s popularity has seen a come-back in recent times due to its versatility, ability to control the most waviest and curliest of hair types. These are typically also better for the health of the scalp but some prefer to stick with old school, classic, petroleum based pomades.

Pomades are meant for those that want to achieve slick, neat and shiny dos and especially for styles like the pomp, quiff or ducktail.

So everyone coming out of a new barber shop will look like Elvis?

Ha ha, yes it’s all about the classic cuts; James Dean, Marlon Brando and especially Elvis. They have all rocked the Pompadour (the slicked-up quiff) in the past and its making its long awaited comeback now.

What are some good new barber shops around Bali?

The Barber Of Bali, where you can even enjoy a nice Cuban cigar!

The Roots Bali, also a very popular barber shop destination. Dorsey’s Barber Shop at Deus. FRV