FRV Travel 8.3

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edition 8.3, october - november ‘11 Rp. 48.000

IDR 48.000 - SGD $10.50 - HKD $55.00 - MYR RM26.00 - AUD $10.00 - TWD $230 - THB 190

fine restaurants and villas | bali & southeast asian style

W I N t h r ee ni g h t s o f P U R E L U X U R Y AT VILLA kAILASHA, BALI

Laos India Sydney & VICTORIA

Bali Impressions

Jakarta dining Union monolog rosso sinou kafe

TAKE TIME FOR

Piemonte Rp. 48.000

design

Bali Villas Kailasha The Jewel MACA VILLAS

MALDIVES food

architecture

fashion

art

wine

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restaurants

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OCTOBER - NOVEMBER 2011

CONTENTS FEATURES 40 Bali Impressions

David Burden shows readers his vistas of Bali.

50 Tugu in Focus

The Charisma of fashion and culture central shines through at Hotel Tugu Bali.

60 The Babel Adventure

Erza seeks an alternative beach holiday to Bali and finds it on Sumatra’s Bangka and Belitung islands.

94 Luang Say Residence

Rachel Love samples some French colonial delights and some local Laos treats in Indochina.

100 Getting into The Grove

Thomas Jones braves a cold, wet Auckland winter’s night for some mighty fine food and wines.

104 Living a Maharaja’s Life

Kenny Santana visits the Oberoi Rajvilas in Jaipur and gets the royal treatment.

108 Take the Time for Piemonte

Trauts travels to northern Italy, eats, drinks, looks around, and then eats and drinks some more.

Cover FRV Travel

Pure bliss at Anantara Kihavah in the Maldives

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30 Unmask the Past

A new and exciting art gallery has opened in Kuta.

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Five of the top swimming pools in Asia Pacific.

32 Introducing The New Flavour of Bali

Ve Handojo has a taste of Bali’s new Maca Villas.

36 Villa Kailasha

Peace and Solitude reign supreme in Tabanan.

40 Bali Impressions

Bali’s subtle beauty explained with very few words.

OCTOBER - NOVEMBER 2011

CONTENTS

58 Paris in Java

Kenny Santana gets French kissed in Yogjakarta.

66 The Perfect En Route

Puri Mas entices with Lombok beaches and spas.

72 The Union Affair

Once more into the dining room with Erza ST.

76 The Lady in Red at Rosso

Pizzas fly and love takes hold for Erza in Jakarta.

78 Real Wagyu. Real Coffee. Real Friends

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Ve Handojo gets up early for a coffee fix at Monolog.

Rachel Love talks to perfumer Nora Gasparini.

88 Sensational Samuierfront

2011 is a fine year for Koh Samui luxury rentals.

92 Lovely, Lazy, Luang Prabang

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Rachel Love bathes with the elephants in Laos.

The Jewel in the crown of Bali’s luxury villas.

Events 14 Bits & Pieces 16 Interview Jakarta 26 Overnight Jakarta 64 Wine 120 Cheese 123 Recipes 124 Overnight Phuket146 Listings 148 Last Word 162 8 l FRV Travel

Ve gets the coffee jitters eating steak with his mates.

98 The Eighth Generation

Paranekan shop house hospitality in Malacca.

116 Wake Up and Smell the Coffee

Katie Truman trawls the cafes of Vietnam.

128 The Ultimate Maldivian Hideaway

The new Anantara Kihavah over the Indian Ocean.

132 The Little Greek Monastery

A touch of the old country in Victoria.

136 Sydney. A City of Lights

Sarah D takes readers around her hometown.

SUNDAY BRUNCH AT BONEKA. LUXURIOUS. SIMPLY DIVINE. Now serving Sunday Brunch! An extension to the famous scrumptious and extensive breakfast experience at Boneka. And then there is our special Brunch featuring a la carte breakfast favourites of Wagyu Beef Steak and Eggs, Lobster Egg Omelet, Egg Nouvelle, Fresh Oysters and Avruga Pearls Blinis along with sumptuous lunch options including Carvery and Valrhona Chocolate Fountain, complemented with soft drinks and juices and a live Jazz Band. Life is good.

KAWASAN PARIWISATA NUSA DUA LOT S6 NUSA DUA . BALI 80363 . INDONESIA STREGIS.COM/BALI (62)(361) 8478 111

HOTEL DEBUTS : DOHA Š2011 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their respective logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.

ABU DHABI

FLORENCE

BANGKOK

MAURITIUS

TIANJIN

SANYA

stregis.com

BAL HARBOUR SHENZHEN

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PT Kub u Dua Me d ia J l. Petitenget 12A, Kerobokan, Bali, Indonesia Te l. +62 361 746 3751/52. Fa x. +62 361 847 5458 email: info@frvtravel.com www.frvtra ve l.c om Dire c tor Guna wa n I nd rob a skoro Graphics Coordinator Sya ffri Soe wa rd i (artwork@frvtra ve l.c om) Gra p hic s Te guh Ana nta Photogra p hy Moc h. Sulthon, R a ma d ha n, Ad a m Ra syid Distrib ution Nyoman Rupma Ii n I nd ra p utra , I c ul, Ma d e i nfo@frvtra ve l.c om Fina nc e Sri W ita ri, B a gus Oka Ma rke ting Gina , Pha y (sales@frvtravel.com) Ad ministra tion Poojie , La lu Contrib utors T homa s Jone s, Ve Ha nd ojo, Da vid Tra uts, Erza ST, Nic hola s Wa lton, Katie Truman, Rachel Love, Herman Von Ber nhardi Aguayo, Sarah D, E mma We stwood , Da vid B urd e n.

Sub sc rip tion Yearly subscription available in Indonesia - Rupiah 250,000 Conta c t: sub sc rib e @frvtra ve l.c om Send e-mail to the above for details.

Consulting Stua rt D W ilford (stua rt@frvtra ve l.c om) Legal Associates Agus Sa mija ya & Pa rtne rs Gra ha Asa , Jl. Ka p te n Cok Agung Tre sna 49 Re non, De np a sa r. Te l: +62 361 242447, 247302, 08123924509.

Fine Re sta ura nts a nd V illa s Tra ve l ma ga zine is a n ind e p e nd e nt, b imonthly p ub lic a tion. Ne xt e d ition d e a d line Nove mb e r 15, 2011

FR V Tr a v e l m a g a z i n e i s p r i n t e d u n d e r l i c e n s e d t r a d e m a r k . N o p a r t o f t h i s m a g a z i n e shou ld be re produ c e d with ou t th e wr itte n pe r m ission of th e pu blish e r.

A l l r i g h t s re s e r v e d . A r t i c l e s re f l e c t t h e o p i n i o n s o f t h e a u t h o r s , a n d n o t n e c e s s a r i l y th ose of th e pu blish e r s. F R V Tr a ve l m a ga zin e is pr in te d by P T M e ga I n da h (T: 02161 9 0 5 2 9 ) a n d d i s t r i b u t e d b y ; P T K u b u D u a M e d i a ( I n d o n e s i a ) , P e r i p l u s - J a v a B o o k s (In d o n e s i a ) , P T I n d o p ro m ( I n d o n e s i a ) , F o re i g n P re s s ( H o n g K o n g ) , P a n s i n g D i s t r i b ut i o n (M a l a y s i a ) a n d N a t i o n B o o k s I n t e r n a t i o n a l ( T h a i l a n d ) .

Con ta c t th e e -m a il a ddre sse s a bove f or f u r th e r in f or m a tion .

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E dit io n 8 .3

Oct o ber - No v ember ‘1 1

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Editor’s Note FRV Travel – It takes you places This last dry season on Bali has been one of the driest I can recall. The weather has been beautiful with blue skies and puffy white clouds floating across the horizon every day since April.

What a contrast to the past few years, where rain was more prevalent than sunshine. Possibly it’s the result of the global cutting of fuel emissions or maybe it’s just cyclical, as many on the sidelines now preach. For whatever reason it may be, we have just enjoyed the best dry season in living memory and we’ll just take a breath and be thankful for that.

I really like the look of this edition of FRV Travel. Like always and with everything, there are particular moments or in this case, editions that stand out more than others. Why? The new look cover masthead for one thing, and the scope of this edition, for another. The scope could almost be called breathtaking and once again the writers and photographers of this magazine have gone the extra mile to bring us stories and the latest info on what’s happening in our region and around the world. We focus on a number of Bali villas this edition with varying insights

from Thomas Jones, Rachel Love and Ve Handojo. A new section is the photographic pages from a local photographer, this edition from young Englishman David Burden. Ve and Erza are out again tasting the virtues of Jakarta dining, first to Plaza Senayan’s Monologue, a revisit to Rosso at Shangri-la hotel and a visit to a restaurant that is turning many heads lately, the new Union. We also visit Bangka, a new tourist destination in Indonesia, and have a hotel stay in Lombok.

So, where are we travelling outside of Indonesia in this edition you may be asking? Well, we are off on the high and low roads of Italy, India, the Maldives, Thailand, Australia, New Zealand, Malaysia, Vietnam, Laos, and add to that a pictorial on some of the most dramatic swimming pools imaginable from around the region. Does it get any better? Hard to say, but we’re glad to have you along for the ride.

Send comments, gripes and letters to: editor@frvtravel.com

FRV CONTRIBUTORS

David Trauts Correspondent, English.

After racing off to Italy for a short vacation during August, Trauts came back refreshed and ready for the rest of the Bali high season, which must be said was a mixed bag this year. Amongst other things fashion at Tugu Bali, bbqs in Jakarta and pizzas all over town were on the agenda.

Erza S.T. After producing his big opera gala dinner in August, Erza S.T. decided to have a summer break and escape to Bangka and Belitung. Impressed by the beauty of the nature, he had to pay for it with a severe burn as a result of forgotten sun block. Remember kids, always wear protection!

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Ve Handojo Partying in five-stars hotels and dining in fancy places make up just some of Ve Handojo’s workload. Enslaved with that kind of life, his escape is often found in a good cup of piccolo latte. Yet, coffee shops in Jakarta couldn’t meet his standards so he went to Bali, and found Ippolito at Maca Villas, instead.

Rachel Love Told by a fortune teller that her life would take a dramatic change in a move to the East, she arrived in Bali with a few hundred pounds and a vision to fulfill a lifelong dream of being a writer on a tropical island. FRV’s resident arts writer, Rachel is one of Bali’s most prolific authors, writing extensively on all things lifestyle and travel related.

Thomas Jones Mr, Jones takes it kind of easy in this issue in an effort to spend some time on the ground in Bali to enjoy the high season frolics. He still finds time, however, to take a trip to Phuket and also dine with an old friend in Auckland’s finest restaurant.

Nick Walton Nick has been writing on travel for over 10 years, including most recently as the travel editor for the South China Morning Post. From his home in Hong Kong he regularly travels throughout Asia and beyond, looking for new experiences, trends and destinations, both for his travel pieces in over 60 magazines globally, as well as his weekly radio show.

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OCTOBER 2011 1

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Fore...Ever It Seems Australia

Hit Man And Friends Jakarta

Golf may be to some, a

Canada’s own singer /

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great way to spoil a good

songwriter /producer / arranger / jack of all musical

Party On The Beach - Bali

procession will celebrate

afternoon’s walk, but the hardy

Kung Fu Fighting – China Anyone who has ever seen

It’s back and it’s bigger and

two auspicious occasions.

folk of Australia have taken it

trades, David Foster is

a Bruce Lee or Jackie Chan

better than ever- The Kuta

One being the Royal Kathin

to extremes with the Chasing

back in Jakarta on his sell

film has to put the Zhengzhou

Karnival running from before

ceremony at the end of

the Sun Golf Festival, a round

out worldwide tour in the

International Shaolin Kung Fu

sunset till midnight over

Buddhist Lent and the other

of golf on the world’s longest

company of Charice, Michael

Festival firmly in their calendar

three days on the beautiful

the King’s 84th birthday. The

golf course - the Nullarbor

Bolton, Philip Bailey and

this October. Henan Province

sands of Bali’s famous

colourful and joyous water-

Links. The 18-hole, par 72 golf

Russell Watson to sing and

is home to two of the most

Kuta Beach with live music

borne procession involves

course spans 1,365 kilometres

dance their way through

famous Kung Fu sects, Shaolin

performances, fashion shows,

barges carrying the revered

from Ceduna in SA to

an evening of premium

and Taiji, and practitioners

kids entertainment and the

Buddha image plying the

Kalgoorlie in WA, where the

entertainment at the Plenary

come from all over the world

world famous food festival

river and the royal family’s

19th hole drinks will be bloody

Hall, Jakarta Convention

to the festival to show their

showcasing the best foods

presentation of robes to the

well earned mate! Oct 1-8.

Centre. Get in quick, this

skills and prowess at these

the restaurants of the island

monks at Wat Arun to mark

event will be a sellout! Oct 28.

most holy of holy shrines to the

have to offer. Fun for the whole

the end of the three-month

martial arts. You will do well to

family. Oct 14-16.

Buddhist rain retreat. Oct 22.

22 He’s Barging In - Thailand This year the Royal Barge

attend Grasshopper! Oct 1-31.

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Watch The Waist – Hong Kong

I’ve Got A Craving – Australia

Hong Kong doesn’t do things in small measures and the proof in the pudding is the 31 days they are putting towards celebrating food and wine this month. Hong Kong Wine and Dine Month begins with the Hong Kong Wine and Dine Festival before moving on to a great variety of events such as seafood festivals and street carnivals, which will be held across the whole territory with hotels, restaurants and bars all laying out the welcome mat.

Oct 1-31.

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an opportunity for the great

Holier Than Thou Philippines

Climb Every Mountain – Malaysia

southern city to enhance

No one in Asia does

Dubbed as ‘The World’s

and consolidate its status as

Catholicism like the Filipinos;

Toughest Mountain Race’, this

a world-class food city and

not hard considering there are

is a true challenge of the spirit

global dining destination with

74 million adherents, but for

of human endurance and an

a program that will include the

anyone in the region seeking

opportunity to ruin a couple of

all-star World Chef Showcase,

beautiful iconography and

pairs of Nikes along the way.

the launch weekend of

deep spirituality they need look

The average climber takes two

“Barbecue Madness”, the

no further than the La Naval

days to climb up and down

spectacular Night Noodle

Festival at St. Domingo Church

the mountain but some super

Markets in Hyde Park and

in Quezon, which pays tribute

sporty types complete the

a month long program of

to Our Lady of the Rosary in

21km course up the 4,100m

extraordinary food events

a nine-day long ‘novena’ with

Mt. Kinabalu in less than three

in unique locations across

massive processions and

hours. Why do they all do it?

Sydney and regional NSW.

worship in the city’s streets.

Because it’s there. Oct 22-23.

Mmmmmm… Oct 1-31.

Oct 9.

The Crave Sydney International Food Festival is

5 UWRF - Bali The ANZ Ubud Writers and Readers Festival is one of the most anticipated book festivals in the region. This year with the aid of ANZ Bank and a legion of helpers, Ubud will come alive again for the eighth time with the utterances of some of the world’s greatest writers and orators, mixing it up with like-minded souls visiting from all over the world. Talk about Eat, Pray, Love, here you can live it. More info inside the Bits & Pieces section. Oct 5 - 9.

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NOVEMBER 2011

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Game On – Indonesia

How Funny Is That? – China

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With 44 sports and 542 gold

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China will be spreading the

Is This Love? - Singapore

East Asian Games will be a

laughs this November at the

Eighties glam metal fans in

sports lover’s dream come

Singapore can dust off the

What, No Bananas? – Thailand

third annual Beijing Comedy

true this November. This

Arts Festival, with local and

tight jeans and hairy chests on

year the games are being

international acts bringing

November 1 as Whitesnake,

Another strange cultural

co-hosted by Palembang in

one of the original hair bands

The ‘First Tuesday in

mirth and mayhem to the

celebration from Thailand is

South Sumatra and the capital,

from the lost decade, come

November’ falls on the first of

hordes and challenging the

the Monkey Buffet Festival

Jakarta. This year marks the

to bang their heads and

the month this year and the

world’s perception of the

held in Lop Buri in the centre

fourth time Indonesia has

shake Fort Canning Park

hats and heartaches will be

Middle Kingdom. ‘Parental

of the country. Believed to

hosted the games since their

to its foundations on their

out in force for the Melbourne

guidance’ not recommended

be descendants of the Hindu

inception and the crowds and

Forevermore Tour 2011, their

Cup. When a whole city gets

but ‘Big Mother’ will probably

god Hanuman, the locals put

competitors show no signs of

first ever trip to the city state.

a paid day off for a horse race

be watching you laugh. From

on a humungous spread of all

slowing down! Nov 11-22.

Be warned, it will be loud and

and productivity grinds to

Nov 16th.

the foods the monkeys love

you may slip on some hair gel!

a halt across the rest of the

to eat, (and throw) on the last

Nov 1.

nation, you know it has to be

Sunday of November while the

something special. Either that

primate gorge and pose for the

or thay are all gambling addicts.

cameras. With no please or

Place your bets! Nov 1.

thank you’s, table manners are

And They’re Racing – Australia

medals up for grabs the South

not to be expected. Nov 27.

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Pack Your Trunk– Thailand

Getting The Hump India

Pachyderms have been man’s

If you don’t like camels

beasts of burden for centuries

then stop reading now. In

in Southeast Asia and the Surin

November an astonishing

Elephant Round Up at Phuket’s

50,000 of the smelly beasts

Srinarong Stadium is their time

and their owners will converge

to shine and show their talents

on a tiny desert town in

and skills to the crowds. Talent

Rajasthan, for the annual

shows, demonstrations of the

Pushkar Fair, a fascinating and

various techniques used to

peculiar event dating back

capture and train elephants,

centuries and an insight into an

a presentation of ancient

age-old tradition of commerce,

elephant warfare techniques,

religion and simply catching

and a tug-of-war between man

up with old friends you haven’t

and elephant will prove who’s

seen all year. November 2-10.

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Cheers To That – New Zealand

Rocket Man – Singapore Elton John, the king or queen

After a long and brutal winter

of pop-rock, syrupy ballads

the Kiwi wine festival circuit

and movie sound tracks, with

gets underway north of the

over 250 million in album sales

capital city of Wellington

and a born-and-bred A-lister,

with Toast Martinborough,

is Asia bound in November. He

New Zealand’s premier wine,

and his band will be bringing

food and music festival.

all his greatest hits to the

Celebrating 20 years of fun in

Singapore Indoor Stadium for

the sun it brings together the

one night only so be quick as

unbeatable combination of

tickets will sell out faster than

premium wines, outstanding

you can say Crocodile Rock!

food and great music, all

Nov 20.

19 Green Fingered Festival - Bali Since Indonesia is covered in tropical forests the diversity of its plant life is staggering. The Indonesia Horticulture Festival 2011 in Sanur is the place to be to be astounded by the beauty of the plant world and the technologies and science behind this massive industry. This will be a must for

within a charming wine village

growers, product producers,

atmosphere and loads of

scientists and technologists

friendly Kiwis. Nov 20.

and even those who simply want to come and smell the flowers. Nov 19-22.

best. Nov 19-20.

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BITS&PIECES

ANZ Ubud Writers And Readers Festival 2011 Dozens of programs, hundreds of writers, millions of inspirations.

Want to know a secret? For many people, the perfect holiday includes luxuriating in the company of a great book, yet at Bali’s UWRF, the chances are that the author of that book will be sipping a cocktail right beside you.

This years festival’s theme is, “Nandurin Karang Awak – Cultivate the Land Within”, and hundreds of writers and literary figures from Indonesia and around the word will gather to share inspirations in more than 80 programs that have been meticulously put together and held in various charming locations in and around the enchanting

town of Ubud, Bali. In one of the main programs titled ‘Indigenous voices: longing and belonging’, Indonesian Putu Wijaya, and authors Albert Wendt and Anita Heiss, will be discussing indigenous people’s perceptions of the concept of land and how they relate to literary, philosophy and religion.

In our workshops, they offer audiences the chance to learn everything from travel writing, food writing, editing, the art of literary criticism, Balinese cooking, batik making, or concocting traditional herbal remedies. This year also sees the first ever Exxon Children

& Youth Program, presenting 24 educative and entertaining programs open for all kids and teenagers with no charge at all.

Huge support came from ANZ, a leading international bank in Indonesia, who stepped in to offer the Festival sponsorship just eight weeks before the gala opening. It allows the annual festival, which has never missed a year since 2004, to keep moving boldly forward.

The festival will be held from 5-9 October in Bali. www.ubudwritersfestival.com.

bits&PIECES What’s Wrong With Sightseeing Anyway?

How not to be a tourist: a snob’s approach to travel.

How Not To Be A Tourist is a new digital travel guide for folks looking for a more intimate connection to the cities they visit by offering an insiders’ perspective on how to look, act and live like a local. Conceived from the notion that “it just isn’t cool to be a tourist”, the site aims to prevent travellers from doing the ‘wrong thing’ and standing out from the local populace. Already live in London, New York, Singapore it will be a big hit amongst the tragically insecure, no doubt. www.hntbat.com 16 l FRV Travel

BITS&PIECES

Win Three Nights at the Glorious Villa KailAsha on Bali’s Breathtaking West Coast

Villa Kailasha is a stunning three-bedroom villa resting upon an expansive 11,000 square metres of beachside land in Bali’s fertile Tabanan regency. The view of the Bali Strait and the glistening black-sand beach just beyond the end of the coconut grove garden is magnificent, and guests can expect to be lulled to sleep by the soothing sound of the ocean waves.

Offering a complete escape from busy city life, Villa Kailasha will charm guests with classic architecture, stylish interiors, gorgeous gardens, modern facilities and an extraordinary amount of private space, complemented by a full team of caring staff who will attend to every need.

All you have to do to be in the running to win a luxurious three night stay at Villa Kailasha is simply answer the following three questions. Send your answers to comp@frvtravel.com 1. Who is the brainchild behind Italy’s Eataly supermarket in Turin?

2. What is the name of the lighthouse on Lengkuas Island?

3. What two desserts top the bill in Jakarta’s Union restaurant?

Entries must include full name and address and telephone number, and arrive at FRV Travel by November 10th 2011.

Prize winner will be contacted by email and results will be published in the December – January edition of FRV Travel.

Prize includes three night’s accommodation at Villa Kailasha, Bali and airport transfers.

Conditions apply and prize subject to availability.

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BITS&PIECES BITS&PIECES

The Bar at The Nam Hai Drinking in the ‘Nam. For the past few months, a construction crew has been renovating a portion of The Bar at The Nam Hai, the sleekest watering hole in Hoi An, with a US$ 100,000 makeover, which involved adding a glass roof and operable windows to the terrace to make it even sleeker. The work has come far enough for the space to open, which means it’s time to start spreading the word of Paris-based designer Reda Amalou’s latest project. The reason for spending six figures to enclose the venue? “It’s always offered spectacular views of the sea and the beach but now guests can enjoy it rain or shine,” says John Blanco, General Manager of The Nam Hai.

Metis Turns Two The French restaurant in Petitenget celebrates Bali A-list restaurant Metis is throwing a party to celebrate its second year of operations on October 15th with night of fine food and entertainment. Guests can enjoy a fourcourse dinner for Rps 1.5 million or simply turn up for the entertainment alone for a mere Rp 200,000. Whatever you decide, it will be a night to remember.

A Minty Taste Another cool hangout for Petitenget.

Adding to the list of great venues on ‘the street’ that are raising Bali’s sophistication for nightlife to ever new heights is Mint, the new restaurant and bar on Jalan Petitenget. They opened their doors in September with drinks and canapés flowing in the direction of invited guests before the doors were thrown open to the public. DJs Damian Saint and Mamsa christened the new, very solid sound system with some punchy electronica, while punters drank and chatted, eventually crowding the dance floor to bust some moves. Location, check. Sound system, check. Bar, check. Decor, check. DJ pedigree, check. Exhaust, already checked. Fun place, check it out. (www. beatmag.com) 18 l FRV Travel

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BITS&PIECES

Jason Tedjasukmana Expert travel tips for the Big Durian.

W

hen it comes to the person who should be asked about hot spots in the Big Durian, Jason is definitely the one, having lived in Jakarta since the late 90s.

He has worked as a presenter on national TV, a correspondent for Time Asia, and many different international travel magazines, and has been the President of the Jakarta Foreign Correspondents Club since 2008 till today. Having visited lots of places and met many people, Jason knows Jakarta like the back of his hand.

What’s the best restaurant in town and why?

Hard to say. Are we talking best value for money or best food? Best ambience or best service? i have to give it up for Eastern Promise for being consistently delicious, Cork N Screw for service and their wine selection, Bunga Rampai for high-end Indonesian, Boci Boci for the green salad, Tiga Nonya for the soto ayam, Din Tai Fung for the dumplings. I could go on but am getting hungry.

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Any recommendation for the best new place to hangout?

That would also depend on a number of variables but if ‘new’ is the main criteria, Union wins hands down. Great design, good music, fine chef. (see inside this issue for more. Ed) What’s your favorite cinema? Why is it different compare to other cinemas?

As for movies, I have lately taken a shine to XXI in Epicentrum. Easy to park, screens are big and people are there to actually watch the movies.

To chill out, have coffee with friends, what’s your suggestion?

I like the coffee at Liberica in Pacific Place and am always happy to support any local coffee shop over Starbucks.

For art lovers, where to go? Gallery?

Museum?

Jakarta Art District in Grand Indonesia is the most convenient but my favorite is still Ark on Senopati.

For bar flys and clubbers?

There is no one place that has consistently good music this side of Kota. As a rock dog I am a neglected demographic. Superbad is the only event that inspires but it is only held once a month at Jaya Pub. If I had to choose a club, I have but one word: Stadium.

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BITS&PIECES

Singapore To Phuket In Only Three Days New cruise ship hits the high seas of the Orient.

The mega-cruise ship Voyager of the Seas is set to bring nearly 4,000 passengers per visit to Phuket when Royal Caribbean International launches the ship’s maiden Asian season in May next year. The short cruises from Singapore to Phuket from May to June coincide with Singapore’s school holiday period, allowing Singaporeans to spend three to five days in Phuket at a time.

Fourteen decks high and able to carry a total of 3,840 guests, the Singapore-based liner is described as one of the largest and most innovative ships ever to home-port in Asia.

“With Voyager of the Seas and Legend of the Seas operating in Asia next year, Royal Caribbean International’s capacity in the region will be more than double as measured by total guest count,” says Royal Caribbean Cruises’ Michael Bayley.

Onboard activities and entertainment include: ice-skating and in-line skating; a boulevard of shops and cafés along a promenade; fullsized sports court; water slide; rock-climbing; mini-golf; a three-tier theatre, themed bars and lounges as well as a split-level nightclub. “Deploying this ship here is a huge milestone for Royal Caribbean in Asia, which underscores our heightened confidence in the region’s potential,” said Bayley. “We hope that the arrival of a ship of her size and amenities will create a new level of awareness and interest for cruising amongst travellers, and in turn, a historic momentum that will help push the infrastructure development for larger cruise ships across Asia.”

Short cruises from Singapore to Penang, Kuala Lumpur, Shanghai, Ho Chi Minh and Hong Kong will also be available.

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Does Nusa Dua Have The Best Wine Cellars In Bali?

Wine Spectator ‘saluts’ Nusa Dua. For the third consecutive year since its opening three years ago, Kayuputi at The St. Regis has been lauded

by Wine Spectator Magazine (USA), while Arwana, an upscale seafood restaurant of The Laguna Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, Bali, has been given its first. This year Kayuputi has been honoured with ‘best of award of excellence’, making it the first restaurant in the whole of Indonesia to win this coveted award, with Arwana being given the ‘Award of Excellence’ for its outstanding wine list.

Harald Wiesmann, Sommelier at The St. Regis Bali Resort, as well as restaurant manager for Kayuputi, played a major role in developing and presenting this wine list for Kayuputi while assisting the sommelier at Arwana to win the award.

Harald reaps this prestigious award for the eighth time, having already received the award from Wine Spectator over recent years. With this continuing success, Harald is working hard to position Bali and Indonesia as a destination for fine wines and cuisine on the world map.

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BITS&PIECES BITS&PIECES

Hotel Indonesia Kempinski Jakarta Introduces New Chef Time for some Peranakan taste sensations.

Signatures Restaurant at Hotel Kempinski Indonesia Jakarta introduces the new Chef Foong Wai Loong, who will bring his ‘Truly Nyonya’ Peranakan cuisine to the table.

Peranakan cuisine combines Chinese, Malay and other influences into one unique blend of delicious tastes and textures. The word ‘Peranakan’ refers to the descendants of early Chinese migrants who settled in Penang, Malacca, Indonesia and Singapore, and inter-marrying with local Malays; while ‘Nyonya’, a term of respect and affection for women of prominent social standing, has come to refer to the cuisine of the Peranakans. Nyonya cooking is a blend of Chinese ingredients and wok cooking techniques with spices used by the Malay/ Indonesian community. The food is tangy, aromatic, spicy and filled with Southeast Asian herbs. So, challenge your tastebuds and take a culinary journey to the Straits of Malacca, only at Signatures restaurant in Jakarta’s Kempinski Hotel. www.kempinski.com/jakarta

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Life Out West Lifestyle Retreats revitalizes hideaway resort in West Bali National Park.

The Menjangan, a unique 382hectare property in Bali, is set within national park boundaries, and combines rustic elegance, contemporary design and service with absolute solitude. Harmoniously located on the fringe of the West Bali National Park, The Menjangan has received praise for its natureinspired concept and approach. The newly completed 12-room, two-suite Monsoon Lodge is a reflection of how responsible building can blend effectively in sensitive environments.

“The Menjangan works well by simple virtue of its proximity to a wonderful parcel of conservation land and having a quality and carefullyintegrated retreat immediately next

to such stunning park presents a distinctive destination experience,” says Lifestyle Retreats Managing Director, Jose Luis Calle. “We take on an extra level of respect and responsibility with the property and its surroundings; for example, pets and non-indigenous plants are prohibited in order to protect the habitat from disease. With nearly 20,000 hectares of savannah, rainforest, monsoon forest, mangrove forest and coral reef, the West Bali National Park consists of a variety of small and not so small animals, marine life and some 160-bird species that includes the endangered Bali starling. www.themenjangan.com

FRESH PLATES FROM THE CHEF Savor the cuisine of American Chef Philip Mimbimi at the restaurant at hu’u. The dining space is set in a sprawling ‘Eden’ to provide an epicurean experience for guests from across the world. Recipient of the 2011 Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. Serving lunch and dinner each day.

RESERVATIONS +62 361 473 576 INFO@HUUBALI.COM WWW.HUUBALI.COM J A L A N P E T I T E N G E T , S E M I N Y A K , B A L I 8 0 3 6 1 FRV Travel l 25

BITS&PIECES BITS&PIECES

Summer Is About To Flourish In WA Flourish Festival kicks off on October 7th.

This year’s Margaret River Flourish festival is an absolute ripper, with a jampacked line up of activities and events for people of all ages in Margaret River from 7 - 9 October, and a chance to get out into the great outdoors for some good old fashioned fun-filled, family entertainment.

The event will be packed with entertainment for young and old alike and will see The Londons performing on the main stage, a ‘Thinking Green’ breakfast, frogging adventures, horse riding, wildflower photography workshops, river paddles, mountain biking, behind-thescenes viticulture tours, native garden tours at Amaze’n cooking classes, and kids workshops.

Kids will be in their element and can really cut loose with a jam-packed day of activities and things to see and touch such as Laser skirmish, Captain Cleanup, a rock climbing wall, extreme bungee air jumpers, rescued animals,

bouncy castles, face painting, music workshops, Captain Coastcare and Dune Dude will all be there at Wharncliffe Mill, ensuring mums and dads can relax while the kids are well entertained.

For the adults there are also free cooking classes in master gourmet BBQ recipes and the art of rolling the perfect spring roll with Yvonne Bleach from Red Hot Spatula. Or, if you prefer it a little sweeter, head to the kitchen with chocolatier Caterina Cannizzaro for her organic chocolate cooking classes.

The feature event, Dinner under the Stars with Matt Stone and Cheong Liew will astound with Noah Shilkin’s smooth piano crooning and a chance to hit the dance floor under the marri and karri trees with local jazz legends Munk entertaining you through to the wee hours.

Entrance to the main festival is via gold coin, meaning only one or two dollars each, so book today to avoid disappointment. www.flourishmargaretriver.com Tel: +618 9780 5904.

A 20-Year Old Grand Hyatt Jakarta Offers More “Rooms” for the People The grand dame celebrates in style.

The Board of Directors of PT Plaza Indonesia Realty and the General Manager of Grand Hyatt Jakarta Pose cut the Birthday Cake.

(From left to right : Mr. Rosano Barack, Mr. Peter Stettler, Mr. Franky Oesman Widjaja, Mr. Boyke Gozali)

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It could’ve been just another glamorous night filled with Jakarta’s A-list socialites. However, Grand Hyatt Jakarta threw their 20th anniversary party in total glee, leaving no room for pretentiousness. There was no government officer style of speech, but a brief and straight to the point note from Peter Stettler, the General Manager of the hotel.

The party took place on the fifth floor.

A wide array of Indonesian, Chinese, Japanese, Middle Eastern, Thai, Indian, and American food spoilt the guests in the swimming pool area,

Seafood Terrace, and OnFive lounge and deck. Mini attractions were spread in different areas. The laid-back and casual dress-code meant the party was the real thing, filled with over 1,000 guests.

Marking its 20th anniversary, the hotel made a commitment to provide rooms for more people. Grand Hyatt Jakarta has engaged with Habitat for Humanity Indonesia to build houses in Babakan Madang, Sentul, for the homeless.

This commitment confirmed Stettler’s statement that, “At Hyatt, hospitality is not only a business; it’s a calling.”

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BITS&PIECES

100 LUXE NIGHTS UP FOR GRABS To discover a taste of villa luxury and to celebrate the launch of The Asia Villa Guide, 100 free nights are being given away. The competition opens on 1 October 2011, with two stays drawn each week over a fifteen week period from 28 October 2011.

To enter the competition all you have to do is visit www.thevillaguide.com/100nights.

The book is built on the belief that once you try a villa you will never look at a hotel again, akin to moving from economy to business class but without the price tag!

The Asia Villa Guide Out Now Come experience the new word in luxury holidays.

In the beginning was the word, and the word was Hotel. Then it changed to Five-Star Hotel.

Then Boutique Hotel. And then in a quantum leap it metamorphosed to Villa.

For the first time ever, The Asia Villa Guide provides the holiday-maker with a comprehensive and independent review of the leading luxury private villas in Indonesia, Sri Lanka and Thailand. Produced and launched

by The Villa Guide, the online independent villa experts, this first edition takes searching for that perfect villa to a whole new level. Listed by country and destination, over 230 villas, ranging from heritage properties in Sri Lanka, billionaire’s pads in Phuket, spa retreats in Bali, to beach hangouts in Lombok, have been given a rating and placed in a one of four collections.

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About The Villa Guide The Villa Guide, previously known as Private Homes & Villas, inspects and reviews over 200 villas a year across Asia from Sri Lanka, Thailand to Indonesia (specifically Bali and Lombok).

Founded by Jon Stonham, (who originally co-founded asiahotels.com), it is a completely independent website which helps guests select the right villa to meet their needs, tried and tested by seasoned villa experts who have slept in the beds, sampled the food and been served by the staff. It tells it as it sees it so that customers get exactly what they are expecting with no hidden surprises. Behind the words, The Villa Guide has developed a sophisticated customer service booking platform to show which villa is available and when. For more information visit: www.thevillaguide.com.

The Asia Villa Guide is retailing at S$27.95 and can be found at most book stores or online at www.theasiavillaguide.com.

For further information and to obtain a range of stunning hi-res images please contact Jo Hocking: +62 821 4550 9610 jo.hocking@ thevillaguide.com

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BALIGALLERY

Unmask

the past

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Text by Katie Truman

W

ith encroaching modern ‘progress’, there’s a distinct possibility that Indonesia’s priceless heritage and traditions could disappear as fast as southern Bali’s rice fields. Luckily there are people like Surabaya natives Reno and Elly Halsamer who not only recognize this, but have done something about it.

Rather than just being some fleeting whim, the Halsamer’s have been avid collectors of Indonesian heritage and cultural objects for nearly two decades, personally amassing hundreds of valuable masks, shadow puppets, daggers and decorative textiles, sourced everywhere from remote island villages to private European collections.

“The thousands of Indonesian islands each have their own unique culture and art,” explains Reno. “We want to preserve this and the magnificent heritage left behind by our ancestors so that it’s not forgotten.”

Their grand plan was always to open a museum that houses their precious, unique collection and share their cultural finds with the world – not to mention helping the nation preserve its heritage on home soil. That dream was finally realized when they opened the Indonesian Heritage Art Museum, d’Topeng Kingdom, in 2011 – and crucially, in Bali, arguably the world’s window into Indonesia. This unconventional-looking museum, located in a not-so-frequented

A pioneering new museum in Bali focusing on Indonesian masks is a one-man (and woman) show aiming to help preserve the nation’s cultural treasures and heritage.

part of Kuta, is the first of its kind in Indonesia in both concept and content and is independently-run and privately funded.

It is a one-stop show of Indonesia’s art and cultural heritage, but it is masks (topeng), however, that are the main inspiration and dominant force amongst the 6,000 or so exhibits. “Masks have individual significance (for tribes) and are symbols of their culture and island, so they vary greatly,” explains Reno. “Originally used mainly in spiritual rituals, masks later expressed beauty in art and culture – they display a wonderful range and depth of human expression.”

Within the museum, a fascinating Harry Potter-like mini-tour of the Indonesian archipelago unravels through eighteen individually-themed gallery rooms showcasing exhibits from Bali, and East, Central and West Java, to the more remote Borneo and Papua. Each islands’ distinctive cultural style permeates through these traditional hand-made masks; most carry historical significance, having been used for religious ceremonies or worship rituals in sacred dances by ethnic groups, while others originate from Java’s royal palaces with some as old as the 18th century.

Displays also include a historical array of fine ikat and batik textiles and relics from the ancient Majapahit Kingdom. Arguably the finest collections of their kind in Indonesia,

there is also an outstanding assembly of aged shadow puppets – each varying by region – and rare Islamic cultural objects such as a priceless original Holy Qur`an, plus one of the world’s largest collections of antique Keris hilts. The oldest exhibit, a sacrificial stone statue from remote Leti Island, allegedly dates back to 500BC. Unlike other Indonesian museums, this brightly-lit space is well-organized and informative, clearly explaining the exhibits and their habitats. D’Topeng Kingdom also offers a progressive, fun and interactive approach, combining education, amusement and entertainment with insightful audiovisual displays, kid’s cultural activities and theatre space for indigenous music and dance performances. All helping to achieve another of the Halsamer’s goals.“We have to educate the younger generation about the importance of our cultural heritage,” insists Reno. “It’s important to establish a record and legacy for future generations.” FRV

Indonesian Heritage Art Museum D’Topeng Kingdom, Open daily 9am-7pm.

Jalan Setia Budi No. 10, Kuta, Bali.

Tel: +62 361 764 777 www.dtopengkingdommuseum.com FRV Travel l 31

BALIVILLAS

Ve Handojo planned another shameless Bali affair, but became stranded in a villa that made him jumpy from sunrise to sunrise.

Text by Ve Handojo Photos by Sulthon

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Left: The lobby and the freeform communal pool give an immediate feeling of looseness and flexibility.

Below: Drinks at the bar, and the intimacy of your own private swimming pool.

maca villas introducing the new flavour

of bali

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Right: A sculptured garden gives you pause for thought. And the place to get your morning caffeine fix: Ippolito coffee bar.

Facing page: The private pool comes in handy for morning laps alongside the super-spacious bedroom and bath.

I asked for a cup of dripped Kintamani, and it instantly transformed my morning.

It

was supposed to be a typical escape to Bali involving bottomless drinks, shameless dance moves, and nameless faces the following morning. And, as usual, there was no plan, no reservation, and no expectation.

I found Maca Villas, a new kid on the block tucked in a corner off Jalan Petitenget, and was too easily convinced by the website that by then only displayed 3D renderings of the villas. A few clicks later, I found myself being transported from Jakarta to to the joys of Seminyak.

At eleven-something that Friday night, a receptionist and a butler were awaiting my arrival with a level of enthusiasm that made their smiles almost crack their faces. I observed the reception lounge in a single glance as it was made just the way I like it; small, compact clean, and open with just enough of a rustic touch, no complications, and no effort to hold me back for long just to fill out unnecessary fields in the check-in form.

The butler escorted me to Villa No. 21 (of 23 in total), a one-bedroom pad with an expansive pool. And I’m talking about a real pool, not just a dipping hole. Sliding glass doors connected the living area and bedroom with the pool and thick curtains were ready to protect me from the harsh sun. Parquet flooring – always an important feature for a wood-addict like me – was the foundation for the welcoming and sexy bedroom, while the spacious bathing area with separate bathtub and rain shower look set to give honeymooners lots of fun ideas.

“You are entitled to one coffee at our coffee shop tomorrow morning, Sir.” That was the final touch of the butler’s explanation. It sounded a bit unusual, if not wrong, but I was too tired to 34 l FRV Travel

Maca Villas & Spa Petitenget Seminyak, Bali Tel: +62 361 739 090 www.macavillas.com

question it. The next morning, I dwelt upon that oddity as I had my delicious omelete as I was sitting in what I thought was the outdoor area of Maca Villas’ Masé Kitchen and Bar. I spotted a heavyweight Synesso espresso machine and it all fell into place. It so happened that I was, in fact, in Maca Villas’ own Ippolito coffee shop.

cup of dripped Kintamani, and it instantly transformed my morning into a much better one. Hand-in-hand with the famous, award-winning Papa Palheta Specialty Coffee and Roasters from Singapore, Ippolito is determined to serve the best cup in Bali, and in the process, ratchet up the caffeine bar for the whole island.

Ippolito is not just a coffee shop. Behind the expensive espresso machine there was a turqoise-coloured coffee roaster and frappuccino drinkers may ask with cynically wrinkled foreheads, “So what?!” Allow me to explain that those two machines mean one thing: the coffee you drink in Maca Villas is all freshly roasted, ground, and brewed on site!

Ippolito had treated my morning with shock therapy so it was far from being a typical morning in Bali. The following hours went in different twists and turns as I found myself sipping my third and fourth cups while watching people walking by aimlessly outside the villa. By lunchtime, I found it pointless to wander around Seminyak only to sit on a different café or restaurant that serves mediocre cocktails and sangrias, so, after a short trip to the beach, I decided to return to Maca Villas and did a few laps in the 20metre pool. It was good to be tired so I could

“Would you like to have your coffee with in a plunger or dripped?” is the basic question that Ippolito will ask you. For connoisseurs, this is an important question. I asked for a

wrap up the day inside the spa before it was time to eat. Dinner in Masé Kitchen and Bar means spoiling yourself with Asian-Fusion cuisine that uses fresh, organic produce infused with indigenous herbs and spices, and as good as any of the island’s top eateries.

That night, fuelled with caffeine, I was jumping all round the clubs. The additional cocktails took my flirting strategy to a new level, moving from aggressive to humiliating.

(But hey, that actually worked even better!)

By the time I had to check out of Maca Villas – after shooing the nameless faces – I was happy to take the Maca experience back home. The essence of it was found in a little black box of Ippolito coffee – a giveaway for staying guests. Maca Villas had screwed up my “typical escape to Bali”, and made me taste the new, fragrant and sexy flavour of the island instead. FRV

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BALIVILLAS

Villa Kailasha 36 l FRV Travel

S

omewhere on Bali’s rugged Tabanan coastline, west of Tanah Lot, a coconut grove garden looks out over a lonely surf beach. Further investigation reveals a secret hideaway comprised of a series of single-storey pavilions, a swimming pool and a plunge pool, woven together by pathways, yet separated by ornamental ponds, flowering hedges and rustic walls. Kailasha, meaning Paradise of the Gods, is an appropriate name for this serene three-bedroom villa, which rests upon an expansive 1.1 hectares of land, with Alila Villas Soori as its prestigious neighbour.

Villa Kailasha embraces contemporary-tropical style with elegant interiors, a blend of modern, antique and Dutch colonial furnishings, colourful fabrics and artwork. The comfortable living pavilion with its three distinct sitting areas, a standalone dining pavilion, and a separate dining terrace are open to the cool trade winds and dramatic ocean views. In a hidden corner, a self-contained guesthouse offers a peaceful retreat, featuring two almost identical suites

Text by Rachel Love

Clockwise from top left: View of the pool and the sea from the bale. The poolside bale invites guests to stretch out on a huge daybed.

A comfy bedroom in the guesthouse.

The alfresco dining terrace.

Facing page: The living pavilion is the social hub of the villa.

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Top: The living pavilion features three different sitting areas.

Bottom: A mirror behind the bed in the master bedroom reflects the view.

that sit next door to one another within a private, partially walled courtyard. In another corner, the master suite presents complete privacy with its own plunge pool, deck, and a thatched bale pavilion for relaxing on leisurely afternoons or under clear star-filled skies at night. From the bed, guests will relish the awe-inspiring view across the garden and pool to the Bali Straits beyond. In fact, they can expect to be lulled to sleep by the incessant surging of the waves.

Dotted with flowering trees and mingled with the scents of exotic blossoms, Kailasha’s huge garden rolls down to a sparkling 14metre infinity-edged swimming pool. This is bordered by a stone and grass chequerboard deck, with a large open-sided gazebo to one side, and a spectacular vista of the glistening

black sand beach and the ocean, which is a mere three minutes’ walk from the villa’s front gate.

The owners’ desire is to give guests an authentic and unforgettable experience in a setting far removed from the hustle and bustle of tourism.

Here, in these gentle surroundings visitors will be charmed by the villa’s classic architecture, modern facilities, and an extraordinary amount of private space, complemented by a full team of caring staff who will attend to every need. Villa Kailasha is ideal for a family or a small group of friends, while its velvety lawns are perfect for weddings, parties, and celebrations against the glorious backdrop of the windswept beach and the white capped waves. FRV

Villa Kailasha www.villakailasha.com 38 l FRV Travel

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for all the words that pass through the pages of FRV TRavel on the joys and excesses of travelling, sometimes it’s easier to simply sit back and let the pictures do the talking. here David burden gives us his impressions of Bali.

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BALI Impressions

A firey sunset over Bali paints the sea and sky of Nusa Lembongan a bright orange.

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A Heart of Darkness moment in Lembongan.

An overcast afternoon at Jasri beach in Karangasem, East Bali.

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A lone fisherman navigates the shallow waters of the lagoon on Lembongan island at sunset.

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David Burden has been taking photographs all his life, constantly learning new techniques and skills in the field. An extended sojourn around Southeast Asia for the last five years has helped refine his work in the fields of travel and photojournalism photography.

Email: david@davidburdenphotography.com Phone: +62 819 1644 8405 YM: davidburdenphotography

Clear blue skies over the stunning Amed coastline.

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A seaweed farmer strolls back to the beach with Mt. Agung in the distance.

A golden misty morning engulfs the village of Jungut Batu.

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BALIVILLAS

Priceless

The Many Facets of Villa The Jewel Text by Thomas Jones

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Left: The views looking north, east and west speak for themselves.

Right: Drinks, pools and dramatic skies.

Below: The majestic master suite - the Sapphire Room.

F

rom sunrise to sunset and into the night, when Bali comes alive with a million twinkling lights, Villa The Jewel offers its guests views and a setting that is unrivalled hardly anywhere on the island.

Indeed, from everywhere in the villa it is hard to steer one’s eyes away from the empire of paradise that is laid out before you from the north-facing, cliff top setting. There is simply nothing to get in the way.

Perfect for families or groups of friends, The Jewel is a stunning four-bedroom holiday rental, rich in colour and grandeur that sits

high on the hill within the “Tiara Nusa” private estate on the Bukit peninsula in south Bali. Tiara Nusa translates roughly as ‘the crown of the island’, and with the sumptuous decor, unparalleled views and five-star service and facilities on offer here at the villa, this is definitely the jewel that takes centre stage in that crown.

Taking the metaphor even further, each of the four bedrooms is named after a gem: Ruby, Amethyst, Sapphire and Emerald. Each room is regally outfitted with rich hardwood floors, king-sized four-poster beds and en-suites

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and are all coloured to match their namesake precious stones with lush silks, soft furnishings and shimmering organza curtains that glint in the light like finely cut stones.

A massive living and dining room with a feature kitchen dominates the upstairs, again with those views, while downstairs below the pool, is a home cinema room with a 54-inch TV and surround sound. It also has a double bed that can serve as an overflow for extra kids, and an adjacent en-suite bathroom, which completes the room’s effectiveness. This is also where the in-house spa is to be found – with two massage beds and chairs for mani-pedi treatments and facials. Between here and the poolside sunbeds, large living room couches and relaxation pavilion one could almost spend all day horizontal.

All that aside, it is the staff who can make or break a Bali villa holiday and the team at The Jewel definitely know how to make it happen.

They are so discrete you don’t realise they are there, but when the situation arises they are on call to attend to your every need or want in a flash. A gourmet-trained chef and butler are the core of the service team and they will make sure 48 l FRV Travel

the food tastes good, the beer is cold, and the proportions of gin to tonic are just right!

Five star service and the stunning interiors and design characterise The Jewel but it is the views that cement the deal. When the weather is clear, especially at sunrise, the islands off the coast and the volcanoes that lie along the island’s backbone are visible in the pre-dawn light. If you are really lucky then Lombok’s Mt. Rinjani will also loom large on the horizon.

If you want a better view of Bali, you will need a pilot’s license. FRV

Villa The Jewel Jl. Goa Gong, Tiara Nusa Estate Jimbaran – Bali Tel: +62 361 847 81 97 www.villathejewel.com

Above: The bale bengong pavilion and the super comfortable, surround-sound home theatre.

Above left: Again the views, this time through the picture windows of the living and dining area.

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BALIFASHION

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Tugu infocus

Hotel tugu bali is a living Indonesian experience with hundreds of pieces of art and local artefacts, and simply oozing with style. Ali Charisma is one of bali’s greatest fashion designers exporting all over the world. Put them both together and you get a shining example of Indonesia’s best design from now and from the past.

Photos by Adam Rasyid / Trauts

Garment: Couture ethnic dress Material: Chiffon silk Details: Stones, fur, rope Space: The Entrance FRV Travel l 51

Garment: Nature sequin dress Material: Chiffon silk, satin silk Details: Sequins, stones Space: Puri Le Mayeur 52 l FRV Travel

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Garment: Strapped lace dress and asymmetric vest Material: Lace, satin silk (dress) and organza silk (vest) Details: Lace Space: Puri Le Mayeur 54 l FRV Travel

Garment: Dramatic bustier, (top) ruffled skirt (bottom) Material: Satin silk (top) and Organza silk, Satin silk (bottom) Details: Stones, sequins (top) and furs (bottom) Space: The Barber Shop FRV Travel l 55

Garment: Printed volume dress Material: Printed satin silk Details: Sequins, ropes Space: Warung Tugu 56 l FRV Travel

HOTEL TUGU BALI

Jl. Pantai Batu Bolong, Canggu Beach, Bali - Indonesia Tel. +62 361 4731 701 Fax. +62 361 4731 708 Reservations & Enquiries: bali@tuguhotels.com www.tuguhotels.com

GARMENTS Model: Juni Matthews I AM MODELS Management (booking.bali@rightcharacter.com) Wardrobe: Ali Charisma www.alicharisma.com Hair & Make Up: Hairudin Didin Photos: Adam Rasyid. Assist: Rama.

Styling: David Trauts /Happy Hidayat

Garment: Powerful studded dress Material: Satin silk, organza silk Details: Studs, ropes Space: Rejang Suite FRV Travel l 57

YOGYAKARTATHEPHOENIX

Paris In Java 58 l FRV Travel

Kenny Santana flew to Yogyakarta to experience a regal life like no other: a place called The Phoenix.

It

was early morning when we arrived at The Phoenix Hotel Yogyakarta, way before check-in time. Our room wasn’t ready but the general manager was very kind to offer us breakfast and a spare room to freshen up before getting into our room. It was a pleasant gesture, but we had to decline as we needed to rush off to the Dieng plateau for a daytrip.

When we returned, our bedroom was all set and before calling it a night we found there was plenty to admire about the room. It succeeds in blending Javanese amenities with a somewhat Parisian design and the room is fitted with dark wood furnishings, with Batik displayed on the wall and in the bed and pillow cases. For a contrast, step on to the balcony and you’ll see a hotel pool encircled by French architecture.

Take a seat, sip a cup of tea behind those intricate white-hued balcony railings, and you can’t help but imagine you’re in Paris.

The next morning, it’s Java all over again. Aside from the usual trifecta of egg-potato-bacon for breakfast, the hotel also serves local delicacies like soto ayam, gudeg and jamu in their vast buffet. The jamu (traditional medicine) server, dressed in traditional kebaya complete with her hair in a bun, patiently explained the ingredients in each type of herbal drink and its health benefits, and if you like it, you just have to ask for more. There’s also live gamelan music staged in the hotel’s courtyard to accompany the first meal of the day.

The Phoenix Jl Jenderal Sudirman 9 Yogyakarta, Indonesia Tel: +62 274 566 617

Heading back to our room via a curved French staircase we saw many antique Javanese pieces scattered around the premises, from benches

and mirrors to works of art. In the lobby lounge, nicknamed the Museum Lounge, art nouveau lamps, handcarved tables from Jepara, Majapahit-style teak wood cabinets, sculptures and old black-and-white photos give off an ambience of a Javanese living room from days of yore. You see, it’s a French mansion on one side and a Javanese home on the other. It’s no surprise that the legendary hotel was initially built as a private hotel back in 1918.

The pool, with its adjacent little courtyard and a petite French fountain, is a clear reminder of how majestic the building is. After a few laps, I had an exquisite afternoon tea in the hotel’s 1918 terrace bar before continuing the long day with a treatment at the spa right next door.

My Spa offers an extensive menu from a therapeutic one-hour massage to a two-hour Royal Javanese Ritual that includes a lulur body scrub and yoghurt conditioning. What’s interesting is how they also encourage guests to learn Javanese massage. In the program, hotel guests can practice aromatherapy massage with a trainer and then conclude the program with a set lunch and experience a 60-minute massage for themselves. A royal treat, indeed.

Before going to bed at the end of my weekend trip, I had a nightcap with wine, cigars and friends in the trendy Vino Bar. For a moment, my mind wandered back and forth from Paris to Java in their yesteryears. And I figured they probably would have looked just the way it is right now in The Phoenix. FRV

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BABELGETAWAY

Text and Photos

by Erza S.T.

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an archipelago, Indonesia is renowned for having some of the most beautiful islands in the world. Scenic natural beauty, crystal clear seas and unique local traditions on every island is what makes Indonesia truly rich.

Unfortunately, many of these hidden beauties remain obscure to travelers due to a lack of both information and infrastructure necessary to support tourism. However, a long holiday break is a great opportunity to reveal some of Indonesia’s hidden beauty, and Babel was our chosen destination. Babel is an acronym of Bangka and Belitung, two islands recently

joined as one province. Still part of Sumatra, these two islands are fast becoming a new favoured destination for many local sun seekers from Indonesia and beyond.

Upon arrival we checked in at the Aston Soll Marina hotel, just three minutes from the airport. Our check-in process was fast and we were automatically upgraded to a junior suite, a great welcome to the island. The hotel is airy and bright thanks to its high ceilings and glass walls that allow natural light to flood in along with the great views of the surrounding hills.

Above: Lengkuas Island seen from a distance from the boat.

Right: The lighthouse on Lengkuas, built by the Dutch in 1882.

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The junior suite room was spacious and was decorated with earthy tones and turquoise accents with traditional patterns of cual (local batik) used as part of the interior design. It not only offers comfort and function but also has its own personality and charm. Thanks to the great facilities - including the big swimming pool, coffee shop and lounges you can enjoy your holiday in the hotel even if you don’t have any travel plans.

We were keen to see the island, however, and with some advice and organisational help from the friendly staff it was no problem at all. The island is quite large so a good car and driver is definitely needed to make your trip here worthwhile. The islands were once known for their large tin reserves and the Dutch brought in Chinese workers to work the mines, resulting today in a strong cultural assimilation from both Chinese and local traditions.

We visited Pha Kak Liang and found a Chinese style pavilion in the middle of an

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artificial lake with bridges to connect it to the land, as well as a small Buddhist temple.

Another interesting place to see Chinese heritage is Fat Hin San hill, where a Buddhist temple compound is located on one of the highest granite hills on the island. There are three altars to visit and you have to climb hundreds of stairs to reach them. The first one is a cave with a magnificent golden dragon statue circling the granite walls inside. It also houses a spring that is believed to give longevity and health.

The second altar is dedicated to the Goddess of Mercy, Kwan Yin, and the last one, also the highest, is dedicated to Buddha himself.

You can almost see the entire island from here. If you still have some more strength to climb further, the stunning views from the top are a just reward for your efforts. Located

Still part of Sumatra, these two islands are fast becoming a new favoured destination for many local sun seekers.

in the heart of Belinyu is one of the most beautiful beaches around for miles and one we highly recommend. Romodong beach has white sands, crystal clear waters, blue skies and sunshine with gigantic granite rocks scattered around and a deep green forest in the background.

Above: The junior suite and swimming pool at Aston Sol Marina.

Left: Buddha’s altar at the top of Fat Hin San hill; a gigantic granite foration at Tanjung Tinggi Beach; and fishing boats on Tanjung Playan, one of the many white sand beaches on the islands.

Aston Soll Marina Hotel & Conference Center Bangka Pangkalan Baru Bangka www.astonbangka.com

Smaller then Bangka Island, and just four hours away by jet foil, Belitung island is also known for its tin mines and white pepper production. The island became popular after the movie “Laskar Pelangi” (Rainbow Troops) was shot here and showed the magnificent beaches and surrounding islands to the Indonesian people. This was the reason we came to the island as we wanted to see these amazing beaches and islands for ourselves.

The first destination that we visited in Belitung Island was Tanjung Tinggi Beach.

It is located between two peninsulas and it has a view like you have never seen before.

Hundreds of gigantic granite boulders spring from the sands as if thrown by the gods from above. There is soft white sand as far as the eye can see and crystal clear turquoise waters that make you want to immediately jump in.

This place is very popular among the locals too and was quite full during holiday time.

Our advice is to avoid this area and walk further along to the far end of the beach

where it is much quieter. We climbed some of the granite boulders and enjoyed the most dramatic sunset ever. Bali definitely has a strong contender!

We spent our last day in Belitung Island by visiting some of the surrounding islands in a rented boat. After 20 minutes sailing, we arrived at the famous Lengkuas Island, with its impressive white lighthouse. The Dutch built this 18-storey lighthouse in 1882 and it has stunning views from the observation deck. We continued on to Kepayang Island for lunch and visited the sea turtle sanctuary.

The island here is quite developed and there are restaurants with cottages to rent. Guests can hire scuba gear and go diving. Don’t forget to adopt a coral while you are here and help to save the local reefs. If the weather is good, you can actually walk through the shallow sea to the adjacent smaller island called Babi Kecil Island, a great place to go snorkeling.

With the right development and investment the Babel area has the potential to be the next Bali, especially since both islands are just 45 minutes flight time from Jakarta, and still very affordable. We loved it so much we are already planning our return visit. FRV

FRV Travel l 63

OVERNIGHTKRISTALHOTEL

Finding Bliss at Kristal Hotel

Text by Erza S.T.

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or such a big metropolitan city, Jakarta surprisingly doesn’t really have many hotels in the South Jakarta area. Not having many hotels, however, doesn’t mean that they don’t have any quality hotels to speak of. On a recent trip we were quite excited to find a very nice, modern place to stay - The Kristal Hotel.

Amongst South Jakarta inhabitants, especially expatriates, this hotel is no longer a stranger.

With it’s prime location right next to Jakarta International School, it’s the perfect spot to meet if you are in the southern part of the city. A friendly welcome and greeting awaits - from the porter to the receptionist and the GM, and is guaranteed to leave you with a good first impression. Checking in is fast and within no time you are relaxing in your room.

The rooms are larger then usual and much more like suites, with each room featuring a living room, spacious bathroom and a real

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kitchenette. In the two- and three-bedroom units, they even have a dining table making them ideal for families. It is also popular with long-stay expats and their families who are awaiting relocation to their new homes in the city. The combination of hotel and serviced apartment is also a big plus for business people working in the surrounding area.

The Hotel Kristal complex is quite fascinating though it doesn’t really show from the outside. They have two towers, where the rooms are located, with great facilities such as a big swimming pool, tennis courts, a fitness centre with a chiropractor, a playground for the kids and even a beauty salon. The coffee shop is called Kafe Pinang and is open from breakfast to dinner time offering Indonesian favorites and Mediterranean fare.

Deli Delima is quite comfortable if you are just looking for a good cup of coffee and a

croissant if you are in a hurry. Those who are familiar with this hotel, might already know of the popular night time hangout, the Satu Lagi Bar. Mostly filled with an expat crowd, Satu Lagi is very popular during happy hour and in this British pub look-a-like, they serve some interesting English fare; from fish and chips to steak, and Yorkshire pudding right through to the good old Aussie meat pie.

All and all, we loved what we experienced here. Kristal Hotel has so much to offer and is brilliant value for money too. As the only hotel of its kind in the area, we understand why Kristal Hotel is becoming a firm favourite amongst the locals. FRV

Kristal Hotel Jl. Terogong Raya Cilandak Barat Jakarta Tel: +62 21 750 7050 www.hotelkristal.com

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LOMBOKPURIMAS

D

uring the planning stages of my stopover trip to Lombok, I envisioned staying in a nice hotel, swimming, taking spa breaks, enjoying wonderful meals and checking out the scenery. I knew I’d need an impeccable place for it, so I looked up a popular website and there was only one Lombok hotel listing: Puri Mas. It said that the hotel has “two sites – one chilling in the jungle, one basking on the beach”. Intriguing.

For my stay, I chose the beach resort simply because I wanted to be close to the water. My Ocean Villa was spacious with its own patio and private pool and a separate dining space fitted with a kitchenette facing the garden. Walking in, I found a thatch-roof bedroom adorned with a four-poster bed, antiques and carvings under a high ceiling. It’s worth noting here that, despite the name, there was no direct view of the ocean.

The Perfect En Route En route to Gili Trawangan, Kenny Santana stayed in Puri Mas Boutique Resort & Spa Lombok and was pleasantly surprised that his ‘transit’ turned out to be the highlight of the trip.

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Literally just a few steps away from the sea, guests can easily take an ocean dip or a beachside stroll.

The following morning, my companion and I had a scrumptious breakfast in the Sunset Beach Restaurant and gazed out over the ocean. Service is attentive but never intrusive, in fact, one of the things that made the experience in Puri Mas stand out was the intimacy between guests and staff. Whenever we passed by, he or she would greet us warmly. Everyone including the drivers, front desk staff, spa therapists, even the general manager herself, made us feel welcome from check in to check out.

In between meals, I decided to work on my tan by the infinity pool. This has direct views of the sea and is just the right size for swimming and there’s also a spa bed next to it. Literally just a few steps away from the sea, guests can easily take an ocean dip or a beachside stroll anytime they like. To soothe our sun-kissed skin, we headed to the Spa Resort courtesy of a free shuttle. Upon arrival, we enjoyed how totally different the atmosphere was from the beach resort. We walked along a leafy garden pathway and saw dogs, birds, snakes and lizards (caged of course) and even some deer. It’s like being in a small botanical garden-slash-zoo.

Besides being an facility with only three suites, the Spa Resort is open to guests of the beach resort. That afternoon I had the Lombok Coffee Exfoliation while my companion tried the Sea Salt Glow. Using fresh Lombok coffee to discard unhealthy skin and local sea salt blended with sweet almond oil to gently exfoliate the skin, both options will make you feel totally rejuvenated. We were also offered three different balancing oils (for lack of energy, tiredness, or negative thoughts) to go with the body massage.

Following the session, we dipped ourselves in the spa’s semi-outdoor vitaliser pool that looks like a jacuzzi. Specially filtered water, called ‘vitality water’, is soft, clear and kind to the skin and it refreshes your body. We were so relaxed that we instantly fell asleep when we went back to our villa in the afternoon.

Come evening time, we tried some of the island’s best Indonesian dishes in the Sunset Beach Restaurant. We recommend a delicious rijsttafel dinner in the gazebo across the main dining area to

sample a wonderful array of foods seasoned with traditional spices of Lombok: sate campur, ayam bakar madu, pelecing kangkung and a few more meals. It was certainly a dinner to remember.

The next day, when we were about to leave for our real holiday in Gili Trawangan, we looked back to Puri Mas and we suddenly realized we were missing our perfect en route experience already.

FRV

Puri Mas Boutique Resort & Spa Mangsit Beach Lombok tel +62 370 693 831 www.beachresort.purimas-lombok.com

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JAKARTAMONOLOG

Monolog

In The Company of Caffeine

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laza Senayan is a classic in Jakarta but my all-time favorite shopping mall is in dire need of rejuvenation so the arrival of Monolog at the back entrance may be just the ticket to breathe new life into this low-rise building. The elongated space is dressed in today’s hip design style, meaning it’s dominated by wood and shades of black. Its all-day breakfast concept means Monolog starts as early as seven in the morning and it surely be must the place to get a fine cup of coffee.

Facing page: Using wood, exposed walls and ceilings, Monolog creates a communal home-style kitchen.

Below: All-day breakfast means all-day espresso, and Monolog takes it seriously.

For espresso-addicts like Ve Handojo, Monolog is the recipe of revival for both Plaza Senayan, the coffee culture in Jakarta, and for keeping him sober.

Photos by Ramadhan

Chief Barista Christoph Darjanto encourages his customers to pay respect to their caffeine. His Schibello coffee is brewed all day long allowing patrons to get a foamy cappuccino for a gentle start to the day, or an artsy latte to make it more cheerful, and the espresso doppio gives a black belt karate kick and is dark, strong, full-bodied with an elegant nutty flavour. For aficionados,

there’s the highly celebrated Luwak coffee – quite a silky taste with fine earthy notes.

You can take your caffeine fix at your favourite table in Monolog, which can be just about anywhere - every inch of the place looks so comfortable to sit for both meaningful and meaningless conversations. The style is casual and relaxed and the design of the place fits with your Raf Simons, Ralph Laurens, Fred Perrys, or even one of those basics from MUJI. A mix of chairs of different designs makes sure that each of Monolog’s guest can always chose to be whoever she or he is. There is no pretention, and that is why I recommend you leave those monogrammed Louis Vuitton handbags and

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sit at the espresso bar and Allow the barista to serve you his recommended cup, and enjoy the surprise.

Top: The comfortable layout encourages endless chat fueled by kick-ass espresso.

Left: Surf N’ Turf whole wheat gallette, and an army of fresh pastries.

Right: Loners can head to the bar and have a chat with the barista to ensure the coffee is treated perfectly. And, who can resist a latte that comes from the heart?

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Hermès Birkins at home. Seriously, the place does not communicate with spoiled brats with tacky show-off items.

For a quick, hassle-free breakfast, try the magnificent almond croissant. If you have more time and a bigger appetite, the surf n’ turf wholewheat gallette with shrimp and beef sausages will definitely fill you up. It tastes as festive as a king’s breakfast. Meanwhile, Monolog’s country bbq beef brisket is one of the must-tries for lunch or dinner. The tenderness of the beef is the main reason why it has become an instant favorite. Overall, Monolog’s menu is simple, easy to understand, but each dish is carefully treated, processed and presented.

There is always an air of openness in Monolog, though it may sound in conflict with the name.

If you come alone – which will never be a

Monolog Plaza Senayan, Palm Gate Entrance Jl. Asia Afrika No. 8, Jakarta www.monolog-coffee.com

problem here – make sure you finish your meal in the espresso bar and have a chat with the barista. Allow him to recommended a cup and enjoy the surprise. The shelves on the wall are stocked with utensils, tableware, and coffeemaking utensils, while the walls will soon be home to the works of local artisans who will display and sell their creations.

Monolog offers the sparkle of a morning all day long. Only a few months since its first opening day, Monolog has gained a regular and loyal following and has become a significant part of the Senayan neighbourhood. It is where good food and good friends meet. And, best of all, it’s a place to get a great cup of coffee. FRV

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JAKARTAUNION

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TheUNION UNION Affair

Above: Union by day has a charming glass house ambience flooded with sunlight.

Left: Union by night takes on a more sexy and alluring feel.

Text by Erza S.T. Photos by Ramadhan

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or several months, we have been anticipating the birth of Union in Jakarta.

Belonging to the group who brought us Cork & Screw, Loewy and Canteen, this new restaurant had created such a buzz long before it opened, that when it finally threw open the doors in July we couldn’t resist the call.

Most restaurateurs usually prefer to open their businesses in new locations, but it was not the case with this group. Instead, they decided to

recycle Plaza Senayan’s infamous glass house courtyard - known as the cemetery of restaurants in the past - and, just like with Cork & Screw in Wisma Kodel, the development of this glass interior has found great success.

Union is designed as a classic American brasserie and bakery. Still keeping the glass roof, they have transformed the venue into a modern, classic and chic, semi-alfresco eatery. Natural light floods the place during the day and by night the FRV Travel l 73

You can also request the halal version that uses beef instead. Another hearty starter that’s worth mentioning here is roasted bone marrow served with onion jam, parsley salad and toast. It really brings out the French flavour and feel.

Going to the main course section, crispy skin salmon with mashed potatoes, orange and ginger soy provided an interesting light fusion taste with a refreshing end. If the chicken noodle with foie gras falls more into the ‘whimsical fusion’ category in Union, then perhaps the traditional handmade sausages will satisfy you. The Toulouse-style pork sausage with white wine, garlic and nutmeg is a delight, and the lamb sausage with rosemary and thyme infused with spices is also very scrumptious.

This page: The bar serves an extensive array of cocktails - from classics to their own original concoctions.

ambience totally changes with dim lighting that makes Union look like one of those sexy bistros in Vienna or Paris.

Union is divided into two sections, the bar and the dining area, with heavy wooden dark colour tones, golden brass ornaments and original Thonet Bentwood chairs. The atmosphere is slightly reminiscent of Loewy, only better. Happy with the atmosphere here, we decided to move on to the menu and see if it was as stunning as the décor.

The menu is quite easy to understand and ranges from traditional bistro-esque food through to Asian cuisines. Young newlywed chefs, Adhika Maxi and Karen Carlotta, run Union’s kitchen and the results are outstanding. Starters like hickory glazed chicken drumlets are fingerlicking good while the Union steamed pork bao, a new rendition of the traditional Chinese pork bun - filled with pieces of juicy and succulent steamed pork and perfected with plum sauce transformed us into extremely loyal customers who will come back again and again.

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During a quick chat with Chef Adhika Maxi on our visit, he shared with us that the menu in Union is bistro fare. “We always attempt to give a twist on classic dishes according to our interpretation, making it distinctive and original,” he said. “We also use all the best

quality ingredients we can find and combine them with proper cooking techniques, which I’ve learnt over the years. So really, our overarching concept is to provide a wide variety of well-refined yet accessible food to the Jakarta dining public.”

Left: The devilishly sexy-looking Red Velvet Cake.

Chef Adhika Maxi is surely one of the most promising young chefs in Indonesia. He started his journey as a dishwasher and foodrunner in Australia before continuing his education at the French Culinary Institute in New York. His resumé so far is filled with big names like Restaurant Asiate at the Mandarin Oriental, the two-star Michelin Gordon Ramsay at the London Hotel, and Ramsay’s Maze (both in New York) where he worked as Chef de Partie. He also spent several months in Japan in 2009 to study at izakayas and ramen houses in Tokyo and Osaka.

cheesecake flavoured foam. It is bizarre yet quite enjoyable.

We couldn’t decide which one was better as both were very different and we liked it all.

We ended our Union visit by debating their desserts. Chef Adhika’s wife Karen is a renowned pastry chef who has won various awards overseas. She rules Union with her bakery creations and her uber-famous Red Velvet Cake. This striking red cake covered in white cream and chunks of nuts is moist inside with enticing sweetness coming from every scoop of the cake. Adhika tries to compete with her through his molecular cooking creation called Deconstruction Cheesecake, a heavy textured and creamy

Right: Chef Adhika Maxi’s salmon with ginger soy and orange reduction.

”Our overarching concept is to provide a wide variety of well-refined yet accessible food to the Jakarta dining public.”

As a newbie in Jakarta, Union has some quite good elements to potentially make it one of the most popular spots in town. We loved it and hope to see more. Make sure you book in advance before going there. It has never been empty yet. FRV

UNION Plaza Senayan Courtyard Jl. Asia Afrika no. 8 Jakarta Tel: +62 21 5790 5861 FRV Travel l 75

JAKARTAROSSO

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Rosso The

Lady

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fter Chinese food, Italian may be the most loved foreign food in Indonesia.

Who can resist the beauty of a perfectly cooked al dente pasta, hot and crispy margherita pizza or just the simple combination of extra virgin olive oil with a thin slice of parma ham? These are some of the reasons why Italian food still continues to dominate the culinary world; from as far as New Zealand in the south to the northern reaches of Canada, you can easily spot a pizzeria or ristorante serving pizza, pasta and other delicious Italian dishes.

Similarly in Indonesia, Italian cooking is considered to be part of our culinary landscape. In many five-star establishments, an Italian restaurant has become a must. This was not always been the case with ShangriLa Hotel in Jakarta. They started first with a French fine dining restaurant called Margaux for 13 years before finally deciding to change it into a modern and contemporary Italian outlet name Rosso at the end of 2006.

FRV Travel did a quick review during Rosso’s early days and thought it was time for another visit. We were pleasantly surprised to find a new spark that stands to turn Rosso into a world-class restaurant.

While enjoying a glass of Banfi Rosa Regale in the beautiful classic yet contemporary ambience we were impressed to see the new menu offered at Rosso. We ordered some soup, mains and desserts, and a margherita pizza on the side. The porcini mushroom cappuccino with truffle foam soup arrived first presented in what seemed to be a demi tasse cup and had a flavour that put my palate in dance mode. The shredded white truffle on

in

Red

top of the foam was a touch of luxury. The starter lifted our expectations and we could hardly wait for our next dish which was ovenroasted New Zealand lamb chops rubbed with porcini and rosemary and served with cauliflower puree and Barolo wine jus.

It is just possible that these could be the best lamb chops I have ever tasted. The meat was so tender and juicy that it was like slicing through butter. Not only that, the Barolo wine jus reduction was made with such finesse that we were simply overawed.

Halfway through the dinner, we were convinced that this must be our lucky day.

We never thought that waiting for the next dish to arrive could be such a joy. From where we sat, we could clearly see the pizza station with its impressive modern oven when, suddenly, a stunning lady in red (who was obviously Italian) came running out from the kitchen to the pizza station. Within minutes she started rolling out what looked like fresh dough into a round thin layer before throwing it into the air with a twirling motion like an acrobatic stunt.

To see this kind of pizza making caught us completely by surprise. She put tomato purée on the base followed by mozzarella cheese and put it to the oven. In around 10 minutes, the pizza was ready and she then added some fresh basil leaves on top. By now, we were convinced that she must be the mastermind behind the beautiful food that we had been experiencing.

We soon discovered two things. First the pizza is really to die for; fluffy and crispy, it arrived with a splash of truffle oil on top that made it simply superb. Secondly, the mysterious lady in red was actually Rosso’s new chef, Oriana Tirabassi.

at

Hailing from San Benedetto del Tronto, Oriana is one of the most sought after Italian chefs in the world. After winning a pizzamaking competition in 1994 at the Pizza World Championships in Las Vegas (She still holds the honour as the only female who has ever won the competition) her experience has taken her around the world to various postings in prestigious restaurants from Germany to India, so we were quite lucky to have this calibre of chef in Jakarta.

We couldn’t resist having a short chat with this passionate lady and asked about the secret to her incredible pizza. “Pizza is one of my favourite foods and I really take it very seriously.,” she enthused. “The secret of making a nice pizza is to keep the ingredients for the dough a simple as possible. The dough is the key of making a great pizza because it is the essence of pizza itself. For me to flip the pizza into the air is not just an attraction, but it is actually an important step to make a good dough and spread the softness evenly – which you won’t achieve by rolling the dough on a flat surface.”

We had fallen in love with this lady in red and as we continued to sip our endless Banfi Rosa Regale we were already busy planning our next visit to Rosso! FRV

Rosso Restaurant and Lounge Shangri-La Hotel, JakartaI Jl. Jend. Sudirman Kav. 1 Jakarta Tel: +622 130 488 535 FRV Travel l 77

JAKARTASINOUKAFFEE

Escaping the malls and posh locales, Ve Handojo found a non-pretentious sanctuary for great food and coffee not so far from Blok M in Jakarta.

Photos by Ramadhan

Sinou Kaffee Hausen

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estling in the cozy neighborhood of Jalan Panglima Polim V, Sinou Kaffe Hausen has quietly been a favourite for local celebrities and public figures for ages.

But, that does not mean this spacious cafe exhibits glam and luxury. On the contrary, Sinou goes rustic by housing collectibles and antiques all over the place. The setting allows vocalists, movie stars, TV personalities, artists and the like to blend with the crowd and enjoy the atmosphere in a casual manner.

The industrial theme is also endorsed by the rough and sometimes unpolished materials.

The shades and textures are natural and rich.

I would not recommend you come here wearing your branded gear when you visit.

Cheap, cheerful and comfortable will suit this place just fine.

Nevertheless, Sinou does not go easy with their food and drinks, and excellent wagyu at reasonable price is their forté. My medium-well rib eye was moist and juicy and Sinou’s special sauce on the side it added a balanced flavour of sweet and sour. Add stuffed mushrooms with cheese, and you’ll have a great party going at your table. The peach French toast is also among the all-day favourites.

Try the stacks of coins with heavenly fruits – a plate of tiny pancakes served with strawberries, bananas, kiwi, and ice cream.

In the caffeine department, Sinou is proudly the first in Indonesia to operate the custom-made KEES Idro Compresso coffee machine. Serving mostly arabica from all over Indonesia and other parts of the world, Sinou is a temple for coffee worshippers. Even teen pop idol Vidi Aldiano could not fight the temptation to try pressing his own first shot of espresso here.

Find your way to South Jakarta, and discover Sinou right next to a 7-Eleven store in Jalan Panglima Polim V. The “warehouse” is an escape from predictable, overdressed cafes and bistros, and a gateway to good food, sharp coffee, and endless conversations among friends. FRV

The private rooms on the second floor are enough for small-scale gathering, while the outdoor terrace overlooks the not-so-busy street. It is the perfect setting to indulge yourself with Sinou’s collection of pancakes.

SINOU Kaffee Hausen Jl. Panglima Polim V No. 26 Jakarta Selatan Tel: +6221 7258 568 FRV Travel l 79