FRV Travel 8.5

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IDR 48.000 - SGD $10.50 - HKD $55.00 - MYR RM26.00 - AUD $10.00 - TWD $230 - THB 190

fine restaurants and villas | bali & southeast asian style

edition 8.5, february - march ‘12 Rp. 60.000

PERTH WEEKEND

ARTURO ISLAND

FIJI INDIA

Jakarta dining BLUEGRASS OTEL LOBBY

4 SINGAPORE RESTAURANTS REVIEWED

TRAVEL

XIAMEN SOUTH AFRICA

Rp. 48.000

THAILAND

Bali Villas VILLA MARIDADI 4s villas

DUSIT SUKOTHAI WESTIN

design

food

architecture

fashion

art

wine

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AN EXCEPTIONAL BUFFET DINNER Food created with subtlety, reflecting the best of pan-Asian and International cuisines featuring a sumptuous selection of authentic Chinese fare, a traditional Indonesian corner, a Japanese sushi bar and more. End on a high note with an irresistible choice of desserts or just settle with a plate of cheese.

Accompanied with a live pianist in an intimate, softly lit ambience and genuine Balinese hospitality, your culinary experience could only be cherished.

Fridays present a traditional Balinese Legong Dance performance from 08.00pm to 09.00pm.

Rp. 395.000 Net Rp. 100.000 Net (For children 9 to 11 years old)

Reservation is preferred.

Please call +62 361 771327 (Ext 5626) email banyubiru.bali@luxurycollection.com visit www.balibeyondgourmet.com

The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, Bali Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua Lot N 2 PO Box 77, Nusa Dua, Bali 80363 Indonesia Tel 62 361 771327 Fax 62 361 771326 luxurycollection.com/bali

Š 2 011 S t a r w o o d H o t e l s & R e s o r t s Wo r l d w i d e , I n c .

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F eb r u a r y - m a r c h

2012

CONTENTS FEATURES 46 The Seminyak Season

Haute couture struts its stuff at the Semara Resort & Spa in Bali’s happening Petitenget.

74 Timor’s Island

Ian Lloyd Neubauer travels to Arturo Island in East Timor for some unspoilt pleasures.

92 Calming the Waters

Thomas Jones spends time during the Bangkok floods appeasing the gods at the Sukothai Hotel.

102 A Weekend Away

Trauts heads to a growing Perth and catches some entertainment on a weekend away.

108 Where the Grapes Grow

Nick Walton drinks his way to The Cottage at Grand Provence in the Western Cape.

112 The Real Fiji

Mr Neubauer travels far off the beaten track to places in Fiji where the normal tourist never goes.

120 Redefining Tropical Luxury

Nick Walton explores the subtle differences between two Indian Ocean resorts in the Maldives.

Cover FRV Travel: Perth for the weekend.

Photo: Trauts.

112

Rush hour in the Fijian Highlands.

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Ve Handojo enjoys five star pleasures near Borobudur in Central Java.

34 Chocolate Bar None

Katie Truman and the chocolate factory.

feb r u a r y - m a r c h 2 0 1 2

CONTENTS

38 Elemental Living

Villas Sun and Sea are Seminyak beauties.

42 Kim Crawford Wine Experience

Trauts goes dining and drinking with Kiwi wines.

60 Some Eat to Remember

Ve goes all out at the Otel Lobby in Jakarta.

64 Set To Rock

A chat with Riva’s new chef, Mickael Dovan.

80 Four Days Eating in Singapore Four great restaurants in Singapore.

86 In the Heat of the Night

Kelvin Hayes gets wowed at the Watergate.

66

Erza gets a massive meat fix at Bluegrass restaurant in Jakarta.

142

Rachel Love talks to artist Richard Winkler.

88 One Night in Heaven

Mr Hayes sleeps with the angels at Dusit Thani.

96 Quiet Sunrises

The new Westin Resort in Phuket gets a look over.

30

A visit to the beautiful beachside Villa Maridadi in Bali.

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Events 14 Bits & Pieces 16 Overnight Singapore 58 Wine 132 Cheese 135 Recipes 136 Listings 148 Last Word 162

98 An Unexpected Treat

Indulging in Perak in Malaysia in style and comfort.

118 Royal Reception

Nick Walton gets some Indian hospitality in Dehli.

126 Foreplay in Vietnam

Katie Truman on Vietnam’s future of golf.

128 The House Where Art Lives

A hotel full of artworks in China receives a visit.

THE ASTOR DIAMOND CHAMPAGNE BRUNCH Building on the family legacy of the Astor family who created a style of grandeur with St. Regis New York, bringing society into a new realm and inspiring an era of lavish and decadent afternoon teas and suppers, The St. Regis Bali Resort unveils a new haven for gourmets every Sunday, of the finest Asian inspired haute cuisine, in a style that is unprecedented both in opulence and exclusivity.

Aperitif, featuring Champagne, cocktails and canapés, will be served between 11.00am to 12.30pm at the Kayuputi Champagne Bar, while Brunch begins at 12.00pm till 03.00pm.

The Brunch Package is inclusive of Aperitif at the Kayuputi Champagne Bar and Juices.

Rp. 995.000 net

The Beverage Package is inclusive of Champagne, a selection of premium red and white wines and cocktails.

This package also includes a variety of digestives and cigars which will be served from 02.00pm to 03.00pm at the Kayuputi Champagne Bar. Rp. 995.000 net This exclusive brunch starts from 22 January 2012.

Seating is limited for the exclusive few and is by reservation only. Please call 62 361 300 6786 to secure your reservation.

Pool and beach facilities are reserved for hotel guests only. www.balibeyondgourmet.com

KAWASAN PARIWISATA NUSA DUA LOT S6, BALI, INDONESIA 80363 STREGISBALI.COM +62 361 8478111

HOTEL DEBUTS: ABU DHABI BANGKOK BAL HARBOUR DOHA FLORENCE MAURITIUS SANYA SHENZHEN TIANJIN

©2011 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their respective logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.

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P T K ubu Dua M edi a J l. Petitenget 12 A, Kerobokan, Bali, I ndonesia Tel. +62 361 746 3751/52 | Fa x. +62 361 847 5458 email: info@frvtravel.com www.frvtra ve l.c om Di recto r Guna wa n Ind rob a skoro Graphics Coordinator Sya ffri Soe wa rd i (artwork@frvtra ve l.c om) Graphi cs Teguh Ana nta P ho to g raphy Moc h. Sulthon, Ra ma d ha n, Ad a m Ra syid Di stri buti o n Nyoman Rupma Ii n Ind ra p utra , Ic ul, Ma d e i nfo@frvtra ve l.c om Fi nance Sri W ita ri, B a gus Oka Mark eti ng Gina (sales@frvtravel.com) A dmi ni strati o n Poojie , Ta ri Co ntri buto rs Thoma s Jone s, Ve Ha nd ojo, Da vid Tra uts, Erza ST, Nic hola s Wa lton, Katie Truman, Rachel Love, Herman Von Ber nhardi Aguayo, Ian Lloyd Ne ub a ue r, Ke lvin Ha ye s.

S ubscri pti o n Yearly subscription available in Indonesia - R upiah 250,000 Conta c t: sub sc rib e @frvtra ve l.c om Send e-mail to the above for details.

C o nsul ti ng Stua rt D W ilford (stua rt@frvtra ve l.c om) Leg al Asso ci ates Agus Sa mija ya & Pa rtne rs Gra ha Asa , Jl. Ka p te n Cok Agung Tre sna 49 Re non, De np a sa r. Te l: +62 361 242447, 247302, 08123924509.

Fine Restaurants and Villas Travel magazine is an independent, bi -mo nthl y publ i cati o n. N ex t edi ti o n deadl i ne M arch 15, 2012

FR V Tr a v e l m a g a z i n e i s p r i n t e d u n d e r l i c e n s e d t r a d e m a r k . No p a r t o f t h i s m a g a z i n e sh ou ld be re produ c e d with ou t th e wr itte n pe r m ission of th e pu blish e r.

Al l r i g h t s re s e r v e d . A r t i c l e s re f l e c t t h e o p i n i o n s o f t h e a u t h o r s , a n d n o t n e c e s s a r i l y those of th e pu blish e r s. F R V Tr a ve l m a ga zin e is pr in te d by P T M e ga I n da h (T: 02161 9 0 5 2 9 ) a n d d i s t r i b u t e d b y ; PT K u b u Du a Me d i a (In d o n e s i a ) , P e r i p l u s - J a v a B o o k s (I n d o n e s i a ) , PT In d o p ro m (I n d o n e s i a ) , F o re i g n P re s s (Ho n g K o n g ) , P a n s i n g Di s t r i b ut i o n (M a l a y s i a ) a n d N a t i o n B o o k s I n t e r n a t i o n a l (Th a i l a n d ) .

C on ta c t th e e -m a il a ddre sse s a bove f or f u r th e r in f or m a tion .

FR V Trav el M ag az ine

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E dit io n 8 .5

February - M arch ‘1 2

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Editor’s Note FRV Travel – It takes you places While Asian eyes are smiling it’s mostly bad news in Europe right now as their major financial and clinical depression refuses to respond to their austerity medicine and less folks are traveling this way as a result. Garuda has dropped their Amsterdam flights from seven flights a week to four and AirAsia has pulled out of Europe altogether so they can both cast their eyes on North Asia and Australia. Garuda in particular is opening flights to Taipei and Tokyo’s Haneda, while Air Asia is soon to be flying from KL to Sydney and adding more flights to Japan too. It all bodes well for Bali and Southeast Asia in general, with record tourist numbers expected again in 2012 from Australia, China and all over Asia for that matter. According to the World Tourism Organisation (WTO) it is estimated that the total number of outbound tourists from China will reach 100 million by 2020. So it’s going to get busier all over the Eastern hemisphere in coming years.

In this issue our writers have roamed wide and far, both off the beaten track and into the hallowed halls of the finest dining rooms and accommodations around Asia, and even beyond. Regular readers would have noticed that our reach is extending way beyond the borders of Asia with regular forays into some of the

world’s far flung places and this issue is no exception with Fiji and South Africa getting a mention. We still focus on things close-tohome but, as the world gets smaller and air tickets cheaper, more of our readers are making the long treks into the wide blue yonder, both near and far, and of course, we will be here to tell you how, when and where on all those destinations.

Congratulations to Johanna Wilson from London, the winner of our Villa competition in the last edition. We hope you enjoy your stay at Villa San. This is what she had to say about FRV Travel.

I found a copy of FRV magazine in an airline (Cathay Pacific) lounge in Malaysia. It has truly inspired me to book a holiday (as opposed to a work trip) to Southeast Asia, with the beautiful photography and inspiring commentary. The downside....I am in the airport on my way home to England...a world way from the wonderful images presented to me!

So, welcome to the Dragon’s Year and a whole new world of travel and dining experiences from our dedicated FRV Travel team, one of most varied and eclectic travel magazine’s around.

FRV CONTRIBUTORS

David Trauts Correspondent, English.

The Christmas New Year season is probably the most difficult period to make a magazine.

Everyone is off enjoying the festivities and not giving much time to getting the job done. Trauts is much the same, after spending too much time with family and friends, his stories about Perth, fashion and the rest were all late. We love this time of year.

Erza S.T. After two new years back to back, this opera loving guy feels that he has definitely adding new weight. In Singapore he storms out to 4 of the city’s best dining with Ve Handojo, but still manage to get the steak done in Jakarta. Next month is definitely time for detox.

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Ve Handojo After a culinary trip to Singapore, Ve Handojo ended 2011 in the little town of Magelang, Central Java. The New Year looks quite bright for him as scriptwriting jobs are coming. In between, he met Riva’s new chef from Paris, Chef Mickael Dovan. Follow his footsteps on Twitter: @VeHandojo.

Rachel Love Told by a fortune teller that her life would take a dramatic change in a move to the East, she arrived in Bali with a few hundred pounds and a vision to fulfill a lifelong dream of being a writer on a tropical island. FRV’s resident arts writer, Rachel is one of Bali’s most prolific authors, writing extensively on all things lifestyle and travel related.

Thomas Jones After getting up close and personal with the Bangkok flood waters last year and making his offerings to the river spirits during loi krathong to try to calm their ire he excaped to the drier climes of Phuket for some less stressful R&R.

Nick Walton Nick has been writing on travel for over 10 years, including most recently as the travel editor for the South China Morning Post. From his home in Hong Kong he regularly travels throughout Asia and beyond, looking for new experiences, trends and destinations, both for his travel pieces in over 60 magazines globally, as well as his weekly radio show.

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FEBRUARY 6

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Snow Business: Japan

Hot Air: Philippines

Wine & Dance: New Zealand

Kama Sutra: India

No one likes the cold but if it’s

The colourful and head-raising

Get your dancing shoes on and

famous Kama Sutra temples in

Party, Party: Australia

going to snow you may as well

Clark Hot Air Balloon Fiesta

your wine drinking glasses out

India should not be missed, but

Gras, Harbour ‘12 is one

make the most of it. For seven

is projected to host over

for the annual Rippon Festival

combine it with The Khajuraho

of the most unique and

days in February in northern

100,000 tourists from around

on the shores of the South

Dance Festival -legendary for

beautiful parties in the world,

Japan The Sapporo Snow

the world at the Clark Airbase

Island’s Lake Wanaka, where

its outlandish classical dance

where guests can enjoy the

Festival, one of Japan’s largest

this month with entrants

lovers of music, people, life,

performances, which takes

sunshine, cocktails and the

winter events, will get about

from over 25 countries.

nature, magic and mayhem will

place in front of Vishwanatha

energy of thousands of sexy

two million visitors to see the

The fiesta will feature aerial

converge for a day of untold

Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva,

international partygoers in

hundreds of beautiful snow

demonstrations, balloon rides

fun in the sun amongst the

then this is one event that needs

the lush surrounds of the

statues and ice sculptures

and a whole host of inflatable

vineyards and nature that the

to be seen to be believed.

Botanic Gardens that make it

which fill the streets and parks

fun for the whole family during

country is famous for. Feb 4.

Feb 25 – Mar 2.

THE event of any Mardi Gras

of the city. Feb 6 – 12.

the four-day event.

Any opportunity to visit the

As part of the Sydney Mardi

experience. Feb 25.

Feb 9 – 12.

14 Airshow: Singapore The final weekend of the six-day Singapore Airshow, the largest aerospace and defence event in Asia, will be open to the public. Young and old aviation enthusiasts and anyone who enjoys a day of adrenaline-pumping revelry will be out in force for some masterful aerobatic flying displays and all the fun of the fair. Feb 14-19.

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Ouch: Malaysia

in the air: malaysia

On The Sands: Lombok

Jamming: Jakarta

Thousands of Hindus in both

Everyone loves flying a kite and

The island of Lombok will be

Jakarta Jam! brings two days

Malaysia and Singapore will

this month the skies of Johor

celebrating the age-old tradition

of music with two international

be subjecting themselves

will be filled with a multitude

of Bau Nyale, The Catching

bands and one local group

to painful rituals such as the

of kites, both large and small,

of the Sea Worms Festival,

performing each day with

piercing of tongues, cheeks

as the town of Pasir Gudang

where thousands of people

visitors given the opportunity

and backs with hooks,

comes alive with the sights

from the Sasak community troll

to meet the musicians.The

skewers and lances at the

and sounds of wind-powered

the low tidal sands in search

first day sees Simple Plan and

Thaipusam festival in an effort

flight at the Pasir Gudang

of the elusive polychaetes

New Found Glory, while on the

to cleanse themselves of their

International Kite Festival with

before partying on with poetry,

second day guests can enjoy

sins and misdeeds. A must

participants from over 25

plays, puppetry and sporting

the sounds of One Republic,

for spectators with a sadistic

countries showcasing their

competitions till the wee small

Lost Prophets and Melanie.

streak. Feb 7.

aerial skills. Feb 15- 20.

hours. Feb 12-13.

Feb 15.

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Jumbo Party: Thailand

Movie Time: Hong Kong

Rucking Fun: Hong Kong

Show Me The Way: Bali

World of Sound: Penang

The Thai’s never seem to stop

Brought to you by the Hong

It’s time for silly hats,

The Bali Spirit Festival is

After a three-year hiatus, the

revering their elephants and

Kong International Film Festival

outlandish dress ups and beer-

here again with live dance

Penang World Music Festival

this March at the Thai Elephant

Society this year’s film festival,

soaked madness as this year’s

and music performances by

returns and is bigger and

Conservation Centre in the

the 36th in its successful

Hong Kong Sevens kicks off in

some of the world’s leading

better than ever before. Music

northern province of Lampang

and long life, features

the rugby partytown from hell.

artists, who will converge on

lovers will be in for heaps of

they are at it again as they

everything from international

Guaranteed to be celebrated

the Island of the Gods in a

quality entertainment with well-

celebrate Thai Elephant Day.

award-winning movies and

with all the excitement, brilliant

global celebration. This year

known international and local

This is the only place to be for

documentaries to avant-garde

rugby and party fanfare that

the major international yoga,

musicians to serenade them

anyone interested in the welfare

indies, and will be screening

have made this one of the

dance and music event will be

amid the resounding rhythms

of the noble elephant and their

hundreds of titles from around

most celebrated sporting

held in the beautiful grounds of

of nature at the picturesque

continued survival in the wild.

the world during the two-week

events in the world today.

the Purnati Center for Arts in

Quarry Recreational Park.

Mar 13.

event. Mar 21 - Apr 5.

Mar 23 – 25.

Batuan near Ubud, Bali.

Mar 30 – Apr 1.

Mar 28-Apr 1.

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Jazz In The Sun: Jakarta

Sino Fashion: Shanghai

Eat Till You Drop: Singapore

Global Music: Adelaide

MANGA Galore: Tokyo

Jakarta International Java Jazz

The Shanghai International

Imagine a whole week

WOMADelaide 2012 will be

Fair is dedicated to all things

Festival 2012 is about to take

Fashion Culture Festival will

dedicated to the glorious

bringing a wealth of global

animation and will be filled

the capital of Indonesia by

showcase the best in haute

pursuits of eating and drinking?

talent to South Australia

with fantasy sights, sounds,

storm, drawing crowds from

couture with prestigious

Restaurant Week Singapore

as it celebrates the 20th

models and characters from

around the region to enjoy the

designers and models coming

will be a glutton’s paradise

anniversary of the event this

the world’s major anime

talents of the likes of Herbie

together to offer a visual

as many of the city’s best

year with performances and

production companies as well

Hancock, Pat Metheny, Erykah

feast of beautiful people,

restaurants and eateries team

workshops on seven stages

as thousands of die hard fans

Badu and Al Jarreau alongside

talented designers, gorgeous

up to bring locals and visitors

by the world’s best musicians,

dressed up as their favourite

masses of other local and

fashion culture and the varied

a literal feast of three-course

dancers and DJ’s, alongside

make believe characters. Don’t

international acts on 18 stages

future trends of this most

meal choices at affordable

street theatre artists and visual

miss the visuals on this one.

over three days.

cosmopolitan of Chinese cities.

prices that won’t skimp on

artists and an all-star gala

Mar 24 -25.

Mar 2 – 4.

Mar 9-11.

quality or presentation.

finale. Mar 9-12.

The Tokyo International Anime

Mar 21 – 27.

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BITS&PIECES

Beachfront Extremes More from Bali’s never-ending supply of beautiful beachside private villas.

Villa Ombak Laut is a stunning five-bedroom villa boasting 50 metres of private beach frontage near the sleepy village of Cemagi on Bali’s southwest coast. Surrounded by terraced rice fields with incredible ocean views it is the ultimate holiday destination for family and friends looking to unwind and recharge the batteries. Complete with two swimming pools, tennis court, media room and pool table there’s no shortage of places to hang out. A full complement of staff, including an experienced cook, allows guests to focus on what’s really important – relaxation. So sip a cocktail, grab a massage or stroll along the beach – you’ll be rejuvenated in no time. www.ombaklaut.com

bits&PIECES From the Deep Northern Seas Norwegian diver scallops at C’s Steak & Seafood Restaurant.

From February 6 to 10, C’s Steak & Seafood Restaurant at Grand Hyatt Jakarta will be showcasing Norwegian diver scallops prepared by the restaurant’s very own Norwegian Executive Sous Chef, Chef Christer Foldnes, who was named “Norwegian Seafood Chef of the Year”. He was flown in to Grand Hyatt Jakarta from Norway in December 2009 to showcase his talents where he has worked ever since.

A number of appetizers and main courses have been crafted by Chef Christer using various methods including carpacchio, pan-searing, charcoal grilled and a chilled scallop & jellyfish salad for starters. Mains he will offer will be seafood risotto, grilled wagyu tenderloin with charcoal grilled scallops and truffle potatoes, and baked salmon & scallop papillote. For reservations call +62 21 2992 1234.

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BITS&PIECES BITS&PIECES

Photos Chris Leggett

Weddings? Parties? Anything!

Bali luxury villas aren’t just about holidays with the kids.

With stunning tropical gardens, breathtaking vistas, massive gardens, a private swimming pool or two and professionally trained staff, it’s no wonder Bali villas are now the preferred party pads for global party people and those in the know.

Chalina Estate Channelling the energy of its natural surroundings, Chalina Estate’s gorgeous gardens and facilities make it the perfect place for weddings and special events. Immaculate sloping lawns border Canggu’s Pangi River, offer incredible sunset views over neighbouring rice fields with glimpses of mystical Mt Batukaru in the distance. Featuring a huge open-sided living and dining pavilion, a dedicated lounge bar with two large terraces and a state-of-the art Bose sound system, this villa is fully-equipped for entertaining. www.chalinaestate.com

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Arsana Estate Cascading down the terraced hillside of a beautiful twohectare estate in Tabanan, Arsana Estate blends its exceptional location with outstanding facilities to create an ideal venue for weddings, cocktail receptions or intimate dinner parties. With two bars, large upper terrace, poolside deck, deluxe living spaces and expansive gardens, the hardest part is choosing where to host the party. Located in a traditional Balinese village, this magnificent villa provides a unique setting for a once-in-a-lifetime experience which will remain etched on the minds of guests forever. www.arsanaestate.com

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BITS&PIECES

KU DE TA Sounding Out The Crowds KU DE TA Bali presents its all-new series of music compilations.

KU DE TA is proud to announce the release of “Best of KU DE TA Volume 1”, the first in its new series of compilations, which has been artfully crafted by Jim Breese, the international DJ and annual KU DE TA resident, along with BTK, the KU DE TA Musical Director and resident DJ. Together they deliver a dramatic audio representation of Bali’s most revered lifestyle destination, with effortlessly grooving, yet soothing, sounds gathered from across time and geographic zone.

It’s an exquisite selection, skilfully melding Balearic, Bossa, Dreamy, Jazzy, Chillout and Modern Disco into a defining statement of KU DE TA’s musical style and atmosphere - tranquil, energetic and soulful. “Nao Adianta” is a 1977 Bossa Nova classic from Brazil’s Trio Mocoto, while Ultra Nate’s “Twisted“ and “Speck of Gold“ by Afterlife are quality pieces of Balearic chill from last decade. These are intertwined with the more contemporary edge provided by Todd Terje’s modern twist on Antena’s “Camino Del Sol“, and lifted in tempo by such pieces as the memorable piano playing of virtuoso Chilly Gonzales on “Knight Moves“ – a track KU DE TA predicts will become a future classic.

The CD compilation will be sold exclusively at the KU DE TA Boutique from early 2012, and will soon be available for iTunes download. “With the belief that the soundtrack of KU DE TA is as important as the venue itself, this new series strives to bring another level of audio excellence to our loyal following worldwide,” muses BTK. “We’ve carefully handpicked every track in this compilation to create a seamless blend of music that captures the essence of KU DE TA”. www.kudeta.net

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Fly Me Further Indonesian skys are expanding to air travel.

Aviation authorities in Indonesia have announced the addition of 35 new air routes opening up more remote parts of the country to three domestic carriers - Merpati Airlines, Nusantara Buana Air and Susi Air - who have been awarded the rights to serve the new, so-called ‘pioneer routes’, and have been offered substantial financial grants to do so.

Merpati has secured 10 routes in Sabu, East Nusa Tenggara and West Papua.

Nusantara Buana Air meanwhile, has bagged 12 pioneer routes in Aceh, North Sumatra and Susi Air has secured more than 13 routes in Aceh, West Kalimantan and East Kalimantan. The Indonesian Ministry of Transportation’s acting Air Transport Director, Djoko Murjatmodjo, said that the new routes would open for operations straight away. “They are able to operate the pioneer routes as soon as they won the tender,” Murjatmodjo was quoted saying. The 35 routes are part of the 132 such pioneer air routes put out to tender this year, aimed at connecting more remote parts of the archipelago. Indonesia comprises more than 17,500 islands and has a population of 238 million people. Of this total 135 million people (approximately 57%) live on the island of Java, and the Indonesian government is keen to boost development in outlying provinces. The 132 new routes are located in 17 provinces, mostly in eastern parts of Indonesia.

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BITS&PIECES

The Astor Diamond Champagne Brunch St. Regis takes Sunday brunch up a notch in Bali.

Building on the family legacy of the Astor family, who created a distinct style of grandeur with St. Regis New York, bringing society into a new realm and inspiring an era of lavish and decadent afternoon teas and suppers, The St. Regis Bali Resort has unveiled a new Sunday haven for gourmets of the finest Asian inspired haute cuisine in a style that is unprecedented both in opulence and exclusivity.

Aperitif, featuring champagne, cocktails and canapés, will be served between 11am to 12.30pm at the Kayuputi Champagne Bar, while Brunch runs from 12pm till 3pm.

The Brunch Package is inclusive of Aperitif at the Kayuputi Champagne Bar and Juices, Rp. 995.000++ (approx US$105) while the Beverage Package is inclusive of champagne, a selection of premium red and white wines and cocktails. This package also includes a variety of digestives and cigars which will be served from 02.00pm to 3.00pm at the Kayuputi Champagne Bar, Rp. 995.000++ (approx US$105). This exclusive brunch starts from 22 January 2012.

Seating is by reservations only on +62 361 300 6786.

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A Shift for the Better Move over Vuitton. Hello travel!

A recent subscriber survey by global Internet media company, Zoo Asia Pacific, found that 70 percent of people would rather spend more on travel than luxury goods, indicating a major shift in consumer spending habits, with preference on travel and experiences over fancy handbags and shoes. Specifically, when respondents were asked what they would give up in order to travel more, the figures showed that 60 percent of respondents in Australia, 69 percent in Mainland China, 74 percent in Hong Kong, 79 percent in Taiwan, and 66 percent in Japan were willing to spend less on luxury goods.

In all markets across Asia Pacific, at least 65 percent expect to spend more on travel in 2012 than they did in 2011. When respondents were asked about their preferred destinations, 24 percent of Mainland Chinese travelers rated Australia as their top holiday destination. Domestic travel topped the list for 45 percent of Australians and 37 percent of Japanese travelers. The survey also acknowledged the increasingly sophisticated travel inclinations of Travelzoo’s Mainland Chinese holiday makers. Beach holidays were the most favorably sought after, with 61 percent citing these among their top preferences. This was followed by 31 percent citing preferences for wellbeing vacations and 30 percent for self drive vacations.

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BITS&PIECES BITS&PIECES

AirAsia and Scoot Taking it Up a Notch Sydney to KL flights good news for all travelers in the region.

With AirAsiaX daily trips from Sydney to Kuala Lumpur beginning April 2nd, travelers are expected to benefit from the overall drop in plane fares in the region as more competition hits the aviation industry. Air Asia has launched the new Syd-KL service with an introductory $99 one-way fare. Scoot, the budget carrier of Singapore Airlines are planning to also offer less expensive fares from Singapore to Sydney.

The Malaysian government initially blocked the SydneyKL route to protect Malaysian Air from competition

posed by the budget carrier, but eventually gave AirAsiaX permission.

For regional and especially Australian travellers, it opens the door for more affordable flights to other Asian destinations such as Bangkok, Jakarta, Surabaya, Medan and Ho Chi Minh using AirAsiaX’s Flu-Thru transfer service. The service permits travellers to buy two flight sectors and transfer easily to their final destinations via KL. www.airasia.com

Rooms, Rooms and More Rooms.

Aston International, is planning 17 new properties in 2012.

The new Aston International hotels will cover a range of brands, including Grand Aston, Aston, Aston City, Quest and favehotel and the group has also developed a new boutique select-service brand called Hotel NEO, which will see openings in Jakarta and Bali next year, while a second Royal Kamuela Villas resort will launch in Bali by mid-2012.

“We will continue to grow in our home base Indonesia, but our mid-term strategy is to consolidate our leading position in the country and continue our overseas expansion,” said Aston’s Vice President of Sales & Marketing, Norbert Vas.

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“Quest and fave for example have, despite being young hotel labels, been off to a very encouraging start not only in Indonesia where fave is in the midst of more than 30 projects and Quest is expanding in Bali and coming soon to Surabaya, Yogyakarta and Makassar but also in the Philippines and Malaysia. They are so well conceptualised that developers are rushing to build them while guests are full of praise and rave about them. We are confident that Aston International will operate at least 50 if not more hotels before the end of 2012 and predict substantial growth throughout Southeast Asia,” he added.

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BITS&PIECES BITS&PIECES

Seminyak Villas in Sync with the Gods Villa Kubu wins Emerald Tri Hita Karana.

Villa Kubu, a collection of 15 luxury villas in Seminyak, has been awarded the Emerald Tri Hita Karana for its committment to respecting the local environment and Balinese culture. Tri Hita Karana (THK) honours the Balinese design concepts of creating harmony between man, nature and the heavens. The THK awards were established to acknowledge companies in Bali that aim to protect the environment and promote cultural integration of their businesses with Balinese traditions.

Villa Kubu was awarded the Emerald THK having won already Gold three years in a row. www.villakubu.com

WiFi on High Surfing at 40,000 feet soon to be reality.

This year, passengers flying with Garuda Indonesia will have access to in-flight Wi-Fi making the downtime no longer inaccessible to business or wasteful chatter. Speaking to press in Jakarta, airline President Director Emirsyah Satar said plans are being hatched to offer internet access on eight new aircraft. The communications infrastructure will be installed on Garuda’s newly imported Airbus 330-200s and Boeing 737-800NGs at a cost of US$100,000 per aircraft.

According to reports, the plans have been cleared by the Ministry of Transportation, which prohibits the use of communication devices on airplanes under current aviation law.

South of Havana Cubana Bar & Grill: a taste of Cuba for the beaches of Bali.

Cubana Bar & Grill is a retro 1940’s/50’s pre-Castro Cuban bar, grill restaurant and cigar bar located in the heart of the fashionable Petitenget fine dining and luxury villa area, and is filling a demand for a themed rum and cigar bar serving up Bali’s best cocktails in a colourful colonial Cuban style design. This decadent drinking establishment is housed in a colonial-style building with arches and columns and a beautiful tropical garden terrace that provides guests with both the indoor and outdoor experience. The interior and exterior design is decadent and chic, with all the colours of Cuba including photos of classic Cuban art and framed posters with generic floor tiles, chandeliers and tobacco leaf fans above.

Classic Cuban and Latin jazz music plays in the background during the day and at night they pump up the sounds for drinking, dancing and partying till the wee small hours. www.cubanabali.com

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BITS&PIECES

New Face at the Spa Bali native will bring fresh ideas to Nusa Dua Spa.

Charity Begins at Home Bringing nearly 10 year’s experience in the spa and wellness industry, Ni Nyoman Ayu Handayani has been appointed as the new spa manager at Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa, where she will be responsible for the operation of the spa, sports centre, and hotel guest recreation activities. “We welcome Ms Ayu to Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa and we look forward to continuing to run the welloiled operation that is our renovated spa,” said Reto Torriani, General Manager, noting that she will be working to create fresh and innovative spa packages to match the new facility.

Anantara helps Thai schools with cash in honour of HM the King.

Anantara Hotels and Resorts donated over three million baht (US$100,000) to the Raks Thai Foundation’s, 84 Schools Project, to celebrate HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s 84th birthday in December by donating BHT 99 (US$3) for every guest that stayed at all ten of its Thai resorts between October 17th - December 5th. The project aims to help 6,720 disadvantaged children aged between 7-14 in 84 rural schools in poor and remote areas to teach them life skills and occupational skills necessary for them to become independent thinkers who contribute positively to their communities.

A Drinking We Will Go Sommelier Harald Wiesmann takes his juniors on a wine journey to Australia.

Together with two junior sommeliers from The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa Nusa Dua, Bali, the wine team of The St. Regis Bali Resort undertook an insightful and educational one-week wine trip to Australia to help impart knowledge to the Indonesian members of the team to grow and develop as fully-fledged wine experts of the future. Led by Harald, they visited two regions in Western Australia, famous for their wineries; Margaret River and Pemberton. The team visited many wineries in the two regions, where they not only got an insight from the owners and wine makers about the history of the areas but also participated in wine tastings to complete their understanding.

The trip was a huge success and the team returned with this essential information in order to be able to fluently explain to guests the Western Australian wines on the wine list of the two resorts. Guests will now be able to receive a more fluid experience of their Australian wines thanks to these trips, which are becoming an integral part of the continuing excellence that Harald and his team are offering.

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BALIVILLA

Villa Maridadi Just metres from Cemagi’s glistening black sandy shores and A stunning hindu sea temple, Villa Maridadi treats guests to a slice of the ‘real’ Bali.

Text by Jo Hocking Photos by Christopher Leggett

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Right: Lapping up the ocean views from the living and dining pavilion.

Below: Alfresco dining next to the Indian Ocean.

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aridadi comes from the word ‘beautiful’ in Swahili and this villa more than lives up to its name. Offering incredible ocean views, stunning sunsets and luxurious open-air living amidst vivid green rice fields and rustling coconut palms, the stunning five-bedroom residence exudes beauty and elegance from every pore.

Thoughtfully designed for relaxation and comfort, its traditional architecture combines with easy modern living to create a comfortable home for families or groups of friends. Splashes of vibrant red inject a warm and happy vibe through the soft furnishings, bright umbrellas and magnificent flowering heliconias, which contrast beautifully against the teak furniture and garden foliage. The spacious and tastefully decorated air-conditioned bedrooms ensure guests sleep peacefully at night, and the decadent garden bathrooms enhance the tropical ambience with outdoor showers for those wishing to bathe au natural under the stars.

When it comes to relaxation and entertainment the options are endless. Choose from a games room with billiard table, a tennis court, 20-metre swimming

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Below: Thatched roofing keeps the upstairs games room and master bedroom cool while classic Balinese furnishings add loads of character.

the bathrooms enhance the tropical ambience with outdoor showers for those wishing to bathe au natural under the stars. pool, open-sided living and dining pavilion, massage balé or the adorable lumbung, a traditional Balinese rice barn, perfect for sunset drinks.

As well as the incredible panoramas, guests are invited to experience the enchanting and exotic Balinese traditions. From watching the rice farmer tend to his fields, to the hypnotic daily offerings at the village or the elaborate ceremonies at the nearby temple, the ‘real’ Bali is unveiled to reveal why it is fondly called the Island of the Gods.

This calm and tranquil local culture is also felt through the warm and friendly staff, which include the attentive butlers and the in-house chef who all go about their duties with a minimum of fuss. Whether it is preparing a casual barbeque or organising a romantic candlelit dinner, no task is too big or small for the crew enabling guests to focus on what is really important - relaxation.

And should the trendy bars and restaurants of Seminyak entice, or the surf breaks of worldrenowned Echo Beach call, then the added beauty of Villa Maridadi is that a car and driver are available for guest use to explore Bali at their leisure. It just doesn’t get any better. FRV

www.villamaridadi.com

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THE SHABA

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BALIFACTORY

HOCOLATE

CHOCOLATE CHOCOLATE BAR NONE!

A pioneering new chocolate factory in Ubud offers a taste of delicious new things emerging in Bali.

Text by Katie Truman

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was always told that if something sounds too good to be true, invariably it is. But then all-new Big Tree Farm Chocolate Factory, hidden in the depths of farm land south of Ubud, might break the mold – literally. Big Tree Farm’s (BTF) artisan-style organic chocolate is not only good for you, it is manufactured in a rustic-style, environmentally-friendly building, with its cacao bean production benefitting Indonesian farming communities. It is actually all good and all true!

A premier producer of sustainably grown, organic produce in Indonesia, BTF was founded in 2000 by American Ben Ripple, joint-CEO and owner along with compatriot, Frederick Schilling. Slowly they have established themselves as producers of gourmet single ingredient and origin goodies, working with traditional farmers across the archipelago and incorporating fair trade and organic farming practices. Like a modern-day Spice Island heritage, BTF artisan products include sea salt, cashew nuts, jungle honey and

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Big Tree Farm Chocolate Factory Sibang Kaja Village Gianyar, Bali Tel: +62 361 461 978 www.bigtreefarms.com

coconut palm sugar. Inspired by Balinese cacao beans, which boast some of the world’s finest and highest integrity cacao qualities, it is BTF’s new premier line of chocolate bars that promises to put them and Bali on the gourmet global map.

One of nature’s best sources of magnesium, raw cacao beans carry more antioxidants per gram than red wine or green tea. However, with normal heating techniques during production, regular processed chocolate only retains a tiny percentage of natural goodness.

The team at BTF have, however, developed a method of rustic-style cold-processing, keeping the cacao bean’s original highnutritional value and superior taste intact.

For their new chocolate range, raw organic cacao beans purchased from farmers in West Bali – as well as Sumatra – are blended with locally-harvested coconut-palm sugar, to create the world’s first organic chocolate bar made this way on an industrial scale.

This heavenly concoction is now manufactured in the recently launched, and quite spectacular, BTF Chocolate Factory, itself notching up some firsts. Built entirely from bamboo, one of the planet’s most sustainable and strongest natural materials, this is not only Southeast Asia’s largest all-bamboo structure (2,460sqm

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and 15m tall), but also the world’s largest bamboo commercial variety. This magnificent chocolate factory is also aesthetically beautiful, uses traditional Indonesian architecture and is operationally environmentally-friendly. One could almost forget that this is in fact a factory –or rather, Southeast Asia’s first ‘Bean to Bar’ artisan chocolate factory!

BTFs new premier line of chocolate bars promises to put them and Bali on the gourmet global map.

Daily factory tours offer a unique, up-close and ‘teasing the senses’ experience of the entire chocolate process, all under one roof.

With surprisingly traditional and artisanal production techniques, the authentic vintage processing equipment includes an Italianmade winnower and a 1932-built Swiss granite bean grinder. Conveniently, the finished product, along with other cacao off-shoots and single ingredient products processed here, are available for purchase in the showroom.

Far from a mere chocolate factory (albeit pioneering), this destination venue is also BTF’s new global headquarters and community-based resource centre. A fullcommercial kitchen and café allows visitors to sample divine but guilt-free cacao-based food and beverages, plus participate in on-request cooking classes. The multi-level factory also houses an open-sided events centre, set aside for community meetings and retreats for those eco-friendly, green devotees. Field tours out to their regional cacao farms are also planned. “We always dreamed of having an HQ connected to our ideals and visions and this factory embodies the soul, mission and vision of what BTF represents and strives to create,” says CEO-founder Ripple.

It looks like Bali will not only be renowned for its spas, resorts and beach culture, but now Southeast Asia’s first organic premium chocolate as well. Devouring some of the world’s most delicious chocolate that is actually beneficial to my health and the environment, plus helping keep income generated from the beans within local farming communities, I can’t detect any bittersweet taste here. It’s just all good. FRV

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BALIVILLAS

4S @ Seminyak

ELEMENTAL

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Text by Thomas Jones. Photos courtesy of Villa Na Bali

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unky in design and modern styling, the two neighbouring Villas Sea and Sun are intimate, two-bedroom, private pool villas that ooze fun and sophistication in the same doses in a perfectly central location designed to bring all that is great about the tropics to your feet.

Painted in white and aquamarine the Villa Sea recreates the soft and gentle emotions that flow from being on or near the ocean.

Add to this the colour of the sky reflected in the 8-metre swimming pool that dominates the garden and you have a recipe for serene living and the perfect holiday destination.

The villa is furnished for comfort with kingsized beds and warm deep sofas, and just to add to the ambience of the sea, a flotilla of blue painted terracotta turtles seem to swim around the inside of the villa while six huge, round shell chandeliers in many shades of blue shimmers in the breeze and bring the sounds of nature into your life.

Stylishly done in all the shades of the sun, Villa Sun is resplendent in reds, golds, oranges and flashes of brilliant white that fill the villa with a stimulating and energetic effervescence of character and colour. Round like the sun, the two-bedroom villa is warm

Facing page: Peace and quiet in red and blue with private gardens and pools for all.

Above: More primary colours and hanging lights for dining and lounging.

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and intimate. From the high ceilings hang three large, round sea shell chandeliers in white, orange and ruby resembling three suns and these are set off by burnt orange coloured walls lined with small terracotta suns and columns draped in long flowing gold organza curtains filling the place with cutting edge style and the warmth of a tropical paradise.

Both villas are perfect for small families or couples, with 24-hour security, housekeeping and Be it restaurants, your own private shopping, nightlife or butler included.

Your butler will simply relaxing at the prepare breakfast in beach, you are never your villa and is also on hand to do any more than a just a shopping you require, few minutes away at cost, from the gourmet supermarket from the action.

100 metres away.

He can also prepare lunch and dinner but with the smorgasbord of great dining venues at your fingertips, why would you bother. Be it restaurants, shopping, nightlife or simply relaxing at the beach, you are never more than a just a few minutes away from the action. Located up a quiet cul de sac behind Seminyak Square it would be nigh on impossible to find a better location for a twobedroom villa this close to the action in Bali. These are not only two of the most stylish small villas on the island they are also heavenly holiday living. FRV

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Left: One of Villa Sea’s en-suite bathrooms tiled in blue against marble and white.

Above: Follow the contours of Villa Sun through the garden to your private pool.

Below: Bold blues and firey reds make the sleeping experience all the more colourful.

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WINEDINNER

Chef Made Putra opens proceedings while Yudhi Suryawan looks on waiting his turn.

Then importer Travis Brown has his turn to enlighten us all on the virtues of the fine NZ liquid.

Text and photos by David Trauts

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or the second time in six months I was at The Laguna Bali in Nusa Dua for an evening of great wine and food. On this occasion at the Balai Raya Ballroom the hotel was presenting a little known (for me, till that moment) New Zealand wine called Kim Crawford. The Singapore importer of the wine, Travis Brown and Indonesian distributor, Karmal Bhojwani were present, and like any of the Starwood wine dinners, resident sommelier Harald Weisman was on hand to spread the sometimes lyrical word on his favorite liquid with help from his junior sommelier, Yudhi Suryawan, who took the stage to describe the wines with his personally written wine notes between courses all night long.

After the arrival champagne, cocktails and welcoming chat were completed the ensemble of 40 or so guests made their way into the main dining room. Large tables were circling a grand piano in the centre of the ballroom and there was plenty of space between them. As the first wine made its way out, the menu, the wine, the chef and the importer – all the main players of the event – were introduced to the gathering.

The dining was once again exquisite. Conceived and executed by chef Made Putra and his team from The Laguna Luxury Collection Resort, the six-course menu showed innovative moments, which were mostly winners, as the group of chefs pooled together to come up with a memorable array of creative fine dining. The best thing about a wine dinner is the fact that for the chefs this is the moment they can really shine. It’s the moment for punters to see them at their best. This is not just another dinner or wedding reception; all their bosses, other GMs from neighbouring hotels, and dining luminaries and restaurateurs from all over town are in attendance, so the pressure is on.

At my table we had The Laguna hotel manager, Mark van Leeuwen and his Italian wife, Erika; GM at Bali Garden Beach Resort, Stefan Mueller; a woman who organizes ship crews out of Bali, Sybil Baldauf; the man behind Artisan wines (previously known as Wine of the Gods), Craig Newton and his wife, both from Perth, and also from the land down under, a young man making jewellery in Bali. The conversation was in full swing as the amuse bouche arrived to the table with the first wine, a Kim Crawford Pansy Rose from the Hawkes Bay region being poured liberally into the fine stemware.

Kim Crawford wines are relatively new having only had their first vintage in 1996. Travis Brown told the gathering that the owners were young bright hopefuls in the then fledgling and revolutionary NZ wine industry back in the mid eighties. They had bold and innovative ideas and wanted to produce and present under one label the very best wines from every grape variety and every premium wine-growing region in New Zealand. They did that without a winery of their own before acquiring their The best thing about a own parcels of land later to grow their wine dinner is the fact own grapes upon. that for the chefs this A slow-poached is the moment they can lobster tail and U10 scallops really shine. made their way to the table with a Kim Crawford SP Spitfire, Sauvignon Blanc (SB) 2008 from Marlborough.

The wine was complex, maybe too much so for an SB, but definitely interesting on the palate, while the large scallop and piece of lobster tail with artichoke heart, oven-dried tomatoes and brown onion juice and vanilla lemon vinaigrette was absolutely divine. The combination excellent.

Some of dishes served at The Laguna: Tender veal sirloin – done medium.

The seared ahi tuna – done rare.

Slow-poached lobster tail and U10 scallops.

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blanc than the previous. “This wine doesn’t want to age too long,” he said to me in his think German accent. “The first was tasting a bit burnt to me,” he observed. The Australian woman opposite, wife of Artisan wines, Craig, heralded the virtues of the first sav blanc, the Spitfire, as a great, innovative wine.

The seared ahi tuna – done rare, took us in a more Japanese direction, with the almost raw tuna being joined with a black mussel and wild rice salad and pinot noir jus, drizzled with rosemary oil. This also came with a serve of caviar on top of the tuna and I believe that it was a rosemary foam splashed over the top.

Light, tasty and a rather large piece of tuna.

Maybe the mussel and rice salad was cut too small for my liking, but it was inventive and tasty. The combination of the tuna, salad, jus, and watercress salad was very fresh and enticing. I’m not sure if a pinot noir jus should be paired with a pinot noir wine, it sounds too easy or something, but that’s indeed what chef Maybe the mussel and Made chose to serve rice salad was cut too with the first pinot of the evening. This was small for my liking, a 2009 Marlborough but it was inventive Pinot Noir that had a bit of bite to it but and tasty. refreshing with the dish.

The conversation was now rollicking along with extended stretches of time given to each participant around the table to say their piece. As people were loosening up, the next course came circling the table, escorted by the very competent Laguna dining staff.

Tender veal sirloin – done medium – arrived to the table with sautéed seedless grapes, soft foie gras butter, marble of preserved red beetroot, potato puree and grilled leaks with a cognac reduction. The two top quality pieces of meat were cooked exactly to medium and were very tender. An excellent main course dish, maybe too many sauces, but I don’t suppose a good piece of meat can always be served in its natural state alone. In this case, the meat was joined by the foie gras butter, the red beetroot preserve, and of course the cognac reduction. Now that was rich.

And speaking of rich, the second pinot noir, and an SP Kim’s Favorite from 2007 no less, was a wine to match such a succulent and rich main that we were all enjoying at that point. That was a killer wine, indeed, but not the last.

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Left: Putu Anggreni Beck and Thomas Weise enjoying a glass of Kim Crawford wine.

Below left: The Singapore importer of the wine, Travis Brown and Indonesian distributor Karmal Bhojwani.

Below: Chief Sommelier Harald Weisman congratulates the chefs on the fine food.

Opposite page: Our table was made up of a fine bunch of characters.

Before the sensational dessert arrived, which was an Araguani 72% bitter chocolate mousse with cinnamon merlot rhubarb compote and dried fig sherbet, a choice selection of Kings Island Tasmanian cheeses made it to the table.

There was blue cheese, double brie and a cloth matured cheddar with sour plum strudel and a walnut melba. Both these final plates were washed down with a Kim Crawford Hawkes Bay Merlot 2009. Ah, the dear merlot is back.

After appearing to lose favor over the past decade Merlot has bounced back to the fore, and while this particular wine may have been a little young it still was well rounded and perfect for the finale of the Kim Crawford wine dinner.

This was another wonderful wine dinner. For people from all walks of life who maybe just have an inclining or slight interest in fine foods and wines, or for people who have worked in the industry for years and are now slightly jaded, these nights are always memorable. Chef Made Putra and his team excelled once again and no doubt we’ll be back again soon for more. FRV

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BALIFASHION

the sun beats down on the new semara resort and spa, heralding a new season of style from katrin & Seta Danda photos by adam rasyid garments by seta danda location semara seminyak baby rock mini dress 100% nylon with sequin detailING, COL. Black Space: The 25m georgie pool 46 l FRV Travel

THE SEMINYAK SEASON FRV Travel l 47

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short dress 60% silk, 40% jersey, sequins texture on the front. COL. Brown Space: the deck

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There is a choice of two restaurants at semara resort - the atrium at the front with its street side deck, and georgies inside by the pool tale Gagafairy Dress by dress Espen Salberg.

100% silk with waist 80% nylon, 20% elasthane, band detail, COL. Blueand sculptured pockets Space: The restaurant details onAtrium the shoulder.

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playing the field pants 100% silk, COL. Black Space: The Lobby FRV Travel l 53

the superior and deluxe rooms are both 60sqm with 47� flat screen tvs, King sized or twin beds, and outdoor daybeds Cleo maxi dress 100% silk with deep dyeing. COL. purple Space: Superior Suite

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The semara Spa features nine Individual Treatment Rooms, one Couples Room, a salon and a soothing reflexology space www.semaraspa.com swan lake dress 100% silk with details on waistband, COL. White Space: Semara Spa 56 l FRV Travel

marylin dress 100% silk with detail on waist band. COL. Yellow Space: Atrium Restaurant

Semara Resort & Spa Jl. Petitenget Seminyak, Bali. Indonesia +62 361 847 6661 www.semararesorts.com

GARMENTS Model: Denok I AM MODELS Management (booking.bali@rightcharacter.com) Wardrobe: Katrin Suthajaya Seta Danda Boutique: Jl. Raya Seminyak, Pertokoan Seminyak Centre, No. 75 U T. +62 361 734 771/www.balifashion.com Hair & Make Up: Eka SHOPisticated Bali Tel: +62 812 3783 0079 Photos: Adam Rasyid. Assist: Rama.

Styling: David Trauts. Donnie A FRV Travel l 57

OVERNIGHTSINGAPORE

The Mild and Tender Hard Rock Hotel Singapore

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rockin’ hotel might feel disjointed in a family-oriented theme park but Hard Rock Hotel Singapore is geared up to find the balance between reviving the glorious rock age and settling as one of the places in Resorts World Sentosa where screaming toddlers are the vital part of the overall soundscape.

To separate itself from the other hotels in the cheerful, rainbow-coloured compound, Hard Rock Hotel Singapore simply dims the lights. So expect a small stage just big enough to sing “Happy Birthday” to family in the lobby, and not pictures of scary looking, satan-worshipping, gender-bending rockers. In another words; it’s more Air Supply than AC/DC. A standard room comes with a doorless bathroom (I like it!) and well-protected bottles of shampoo and shower gel. The television has with only one channel worth looping, and that’s MTV filled with Korean boybands. Elton John must be happy. The bed is very comfortable but the fridge has no alcohol. Yeah, that’s

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The name sounds loud and wild, but all you will hear is kids, nannies and soft playing acoustic bands in the bars. It’s a family getaway after all.

Text by Ve Handojo. where the change comes in; we’re rockin’ but we have toddlers now, so no Jims or Jack.

After a quick breakfast in Starz I checked out the wonderful free-form pool and had some splash time during the day. The evening was spent in the bar in the lobby where I had some light cocktails with a band playing Bon Jovi’s “Livin’ on a Prayer” down-tempo, acoustic style. Oh, how those good ol’ days have gone.

Resorts World Sentosa has many choices of accommodation but while Hotel Michael is designoriented, Festive Hotel has too many kids, and Crockfords Tower only houses high rollers, Hard Rock Hotel might be the best choice for has-been rockers that come with a newly-aquired small family. And you better get in quick before they start putting up posters of Justin Bieber and playing his music. FRV

www.hardrockhotelsingapore.com

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JAKARTAOTELLOBBY Left: The entrance to Otel Lobby.

Below: The front desk with classic black and white movies playing and a ping pong ball chandelier.

Otel Lobby

Some Eat to Remember, Some Drink to Forget Text by Ve Handojo Photos by Ramadhan

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Within its first few months of opening, Otel Lobby has quickly become the “it” place. Thankfully, not just for the style, but mostly for the food.

ow would I even begin to describe Otel Lobby? The cool vintage Louis Vuitton suitcases piled high in the reception area? The designer sofas and armchairs in the lounge room ? The classic black-and-white movies projected on the wall? The chandelier made of ping pong balls hanging above the long table? I can’t stop making the list, really. And I haven’t even started on the food yet.

My strawberry and watermelon salad came with parmesan espuma foam - a simple appetizer to set my taste buds for the many flavours to come. What followed was the crunchiest prawn tempura I have ever tasted and came with a pineapple sorbet topping and a portion of braised pineapple salad.

Being a monster eater, I took one of the mains as my first entrée. It happened to be the slow-poached salmon resting on a bed of couscous and avocado-orange and dressed with cilantro jus. The salty and crispy skin was a joy, while the salmon itself had a perfect tenderness and an unbelievably smooth texture. Fish lovers should also try their roasted barramundi. In just a few short weeks after the opening, the dish has quickly become the talk of the town. As for me, my lunch proceeded to my favourite red meat, Beef Wellington. Wrapped in puff pastry and served on fine china, the tenderloin steak with mushroom duxelle was a gracious treat.

They said you haven’t been to Otel Lobby until you have finished the Beef Wellington.

This is so true.

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Top left: Wooden picnic tables in the outdoor seating area.

Left and above: Prawn tempura salad and slowpoached salmon.

Facing page: The spacious interior of Otel Lobby feels intimate and homely.

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the water comes for free! In Jakarta, free water in a posh restaurant is a miracle!

Otel Lobby Annex Building of Bakrie Tower Jl. Epicentrum Tengah, Kuningan Jakarta Tel: +62 21 2994 1324 www.otellobby.com

If you are feeling slightly oriental, order the duck confit al dente noodle - plenty of finely roasted duck breast, showered with duck broth. The bar snacks are also winners. The bouncy buns that come with either chicken, beef, or duck are the softest ever, and don’t miss the croquettes.

Otel Lobby’s menu is quite limited, simple, and clear. The portions are generous but will not overstuff. The water comes for free. I repeat, the water comes for free! In Jakarta, free water in a posh restaurant is a miracle! It’s not that I want to save money. It’s just I want to save money for cocktails.

Ben Browning, the mixologist, has a Midas touch. Everything he touches turns into something to delightfully knock you out. He knows how to play with the rich and spicy flavours as well. The ultimate fix for me is Kudus Cocktail – whiskey, dark rum, clove, and bitters. This masculine drink has an

elegant aroma, and a Bruce Lee kick. If you’re a lady, or feeling lady-like, go for the Burning Mandarin – a mix of mandarin vodka, lemon, orange, cranberry and chilli. Poisoned Rose tastes very smooth with its silky texture but after one glass, you’ll think everybody is beautiful. Are you familiar with Indonesian rujak? Imagine it becoming an alcoholic beverage, and you’ll get Celery Superstar.

As a hotel without any rooms, Otel Lobby is great for long leisurely lunches. When the magic hour comes, golden rays of dusk will light up the bar. Happy Hours start from 4pm to 7pm – buy one get one free for all cocktails and bar snacks. The lobby is also where to gather with friends for dinner.

If Otel Lobby ever changes their mind to become a boutique hotel, I’d be a long staying guest for sure. FRV

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JAKARTARIVA

Set to Rock

Ve Handojo had the privilege of being one of the first to taste the creations of Riva’s young and energetic new Chef, Mickael DoVan. Text by Ve Handojo Photos by Ramadhan 64 l FRV Travel

W

hy is the skin not crispy? I asked Chef Mickael DoVan upon tasting his wild fish roasted with thyme, a dish dressed in sauce supreme and pear emulsion and accompanied with caviar. “Respect your produce,” the 27-year-old Parisian replied.

“I’ve seen people processing their produce simply anyway they want. My philosophy is to always respect our produce – be they eggs, vegetables, fish, red meat, spices, herbs, or just about anything.”

After years of working in two- and three-Michelin star restaurants in Paris, the new chef at Riva at The Park Lane Jakarta, finds that the city does not provide him with as many choices in terms of produce. “I believe that fine food can only be achieved from fine produce. Not just good, not just fresh, but it must be of the finest quality. In Paris, if I need an ingredient, I would have ten choices and I get to choose which one is the best. Here in Jakarta I can only choose from two or three suppliers, and that’s it.”

Does that mean that we are not going to taste the very best that this new chef at Riva can make? Not at all. “The most exciting thing about working in Indonesia is that I get to play around and experiment with so many spices and herbs,” he explains. “If I cannot get a certain kind of fish then I will not force myself to work with that kind of fish. That’s fine by me because I’m sure I can find the finest spices and herbs in Indonesia that will take my creations to another level.”

DoVan started working in the kitchen at the age of sixteen. Since that time he has worked under Chef Eric Briffard at Le Cinq at Hotel Georges V; under Chef Jeak-Francois Piege at Les Ambassadeurs at Hotel de Crillon; and under Chef Bernard Pacaud in Jacques Cagna Restaurant and Ambroisie Restaurant, and now, starting February 2012, he will be bringing his exciting talent and creations to Riva – one of the best French restaurants in Jakarta.

One of his best works is the boiled chicken egg wrapped in bread crust, accompanied with black truffle, foie gras, and Perigueux sauce. This appetizer gives a clear signal that the following items will take you to new places without hurting your taste buds at all. That wild fish that I mentioned above proves that Chef Mickael DoVan is set to take Jakarta diners to new territory – a universe of new delights.

How would Chef Mickael DoVan describe his cuisine in a few words? “Simple. Produce.

Produce. It’s always been my mantra. Nothing is more important than the core of a dish itself: the ingredients,” says the perfectionist chef.

With the arrival of such a young, energetic, and dynamic talent, it seems that Riva is embracing a new era. This could be another step in bringing Jakarta’s culinary scene to a more forward-thinking mindset – more daring, and more vibrant. As one of the torchbearers, Riva is taking a bold step. And I will follow that light. FRV

Riva @ The Park Lane Jakarta www.rivafrenchrestaurant.com FRV Travel l 65

JAKARTABLUEGRASS

Feasting Like A Viking God

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Text by Erza S.T. Photos by Ramadhan Left: The grey stone facade is a stunning look.

Above: The wooden patio area for when the weather is fine.

Above right: The coffee counter and well-stocked wine chiller.

B

ack when I was a kid, going to a steak restaurant was considered a luxury and it was a family ritual that we did once a month. In the 80s, steak restaurants such as Black Angus, Restoran Steak Art & Curio and Ponderosa were the places to go. With the passing of time, the steak-eating habit in Jakarta has gotten stronger and we have started to see chains such as Tony Roma’s and Lawry’s Prime Rib come on the scene, and five-star hotels such as Park Lane and The Regent (now The Four Seasons) have started to adopt this concept by adding Stix and The Regent Steak House to Jakarta’s culinary landscape.

Perhaps these days going to a steak restaurant is not as prestigious as it was back in the 80s, but this doesn’t mean we have lost interest.

Aside from some of the big names above that

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Above: The venue claims to have the longest bar around.

Adjacent to the patio is the semi al-fresco dining area.

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Below: Margarita grilled shrimp, Big Daddy steak and oven baked salmon.

Right: Bluegrass’s rustic modern interior creates just the right ambience for an upmarket USA styled bar and grill.

still survive and prosper, Jakarta also has newcomers that are more upmarket in style and concept. At the moment, I am craving for some good meat.

The place I am craving is called Bluegrass, a steak restaurant that prefers to be classified as an American bar and grill. Opened at the end of October last year, the Bluegrass concept seems to work well with its target market and this has made them fantastic meat one of the most popular hangout spots in Jakarta.

This feast really made me and my friends feel like we were at a Norse God’s victory battle feast in Valhalla.

To my observation, there are a few elements that make Bluegrass really work. A nice ambience, great meat and a gorgeous bar to mix and mingle. As a stand-alone restaurant, Bluegrass has a modern Western concept using greyish mountain stone as its feature.

With its large dimensions, it is no surprise that this restaurant claims to have the longest bar in town. Stretching for over 40 metres, it has immediately been accepted by the slick yuppies that occupy it during happy hours every day.

But I ain’t here for the cocktails! I am here for the steak. A dilemma steps in to my mind and makes it hard to decide between the 1kg lean bone rib eye named Big Daddy or the Bluegrass Baby Back Ribs. Ah, what do you

know… life is too short to be bothered on this or that, so why not have both?

This bold ‘blonde’ decision was very satisfying indeed, but then came the issue of how to finish them. The Big Daddy was really BIG! I think it was actually enough to be shared among at least four meat lovers. So I called for back up. I have to say, Big Daddy was really good. It was juicy and perfectly cooked.

Dipped into the accompanying au jus sauce it tasted simply divine. It was so very worth paying Rps. 500,000 (US$55) for this 1kg of prime meat.

Since I had additional back up coming, eating the baby back ribs was not really an issue anymore. With options of BBQ or original dipping sauce, they were so tender and filled with juicy sweetness. It was really an excellent choice for anyone who enjoys meat. They have a halal version called Texas Beef Ribs that are equally as scrumptious.

This fantastic meat feast really made me and my friends feel like we were at a Norse God’s victory battle feast in Valhalla. Afterwards, we rested while enjoying local Balinese Stark wheat beer to calm our happy tummies.

Slowly the bar and outside patio were filling with the beautiful people and we saw more beautiful looking dishes like prawns, chicken wings, salmon and yummy desserts passing by our table. But we were spent. Oh no worries… there is always next time and after this feast, next time won’t be too far away.

FRV

Bluegreass Bar and Grill Kompleks Rasuna Epicentrum Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said Jakarta Selatan www.bluegrassjakarta.com FRV Travel l 69

JAVAGETAWAYS

Plataran Borobudur

How Would You Like to Have Your Own Borobudur?

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T

he drive from Yogyakarta’s international airport to Magelang is more than an hour long and for the whole time I was asking myself why I agreed to follow the advice of my travel consultant / boyfriend to stay in a spa resort tagged as the closest to Borobudur temple. As if I’ve never been to Borobudur before. The last time I caught the sunrise from the top of that gigantic temple was less than a year ago. How was it? It’s a bloody sun that’s rising, alright!

After the rain, the road and the air were damp and the gloomy morning was not the most uplifting kind, especially for a cranky

Ve Handojo was trapped in the heart of Magelang And found it hard checking out.

Far left The view over Borobudur Temple.

Left: Stupas in the resort complex.

This page: The Colonial Mansion; great for taking high tea, and sunset from the terrace.

flashpacker like your’s truly. I was more than ready to snap at the slightest hospitality flaw.

Thankfully the wet towel offered in the lobby as I arrived had that calming citrus flavour.

It seemed like I had to find something else to put the blame on. You know, just for a release, and for the sake of being a travel writer with more than 16,000 followers on Twitter. Bite me.

Our pool villa had a private pool – in case you couldn’t figure it out. If the paddy cabanas surrounding us were for those who fly coach, then this villa – one of two – was the business class. If one can enjoy the view

Text by Ve Handojo Photos courtesy of Plataran Borobudur

of Borobudur while having breakfast in front of their paddy cabana amidst the greenery, then this villa allows you to have a stylish dip and gaze at the ancient temple while doing the lotus position underwater.

I found that Plataran Borobudur offers different experiences around the romantic and mystical Borobudur. When I felt too lazy for a fifteen-minute-trip to the archaelogical complex, I just used one of the telescopes in the resort, and observe the tourists that flock all the way through the Kamadathu to Arupadhatu levels. An even better idea was to book a Samyaksamadhi Ritual Massage in

the Padma Spa. You know what they say, the more syllables and the harder to pronounce the name, the more exotic and remedial a massage treatment is.

Will you die from boredom staying in the middle of a village like this? That was what I was afraid of. But a healthy 30-minute walk to Punthuk Setumbu took me around the paddy fields, up to a hill where the view was best enjoyed with fresh coconuts. Lance Armstrong wannabes could also do the twohour bike ride, which I’m pretty sure would probably last for three hours due to the many stops for taking pictures.

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After breakfast take a stroll through the complex and play with the deer and tease the arrogant peacocks.

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Another way to gaze at the 9th century Mahayana Buddhist monument from Plataran Borobudur would be with the accompanion of Menthok Geol Geol - that’s duck, slow-cooked for as long as five hours, then fully bathed in curry. In short, a sample of paradise for foodies. Other choices in the Patio restaurant include beef rendang and nasi goreng – all worth trying. Sitting in Patio was a joy in itself. The colonial style building, the antique collections, and the delicate service made me want to move my king-size bed there from the villa.

Plataran Borobudur make their own bread and butter, of which there is papaya butter, anchovy butter and black pepper butter – I kid you not! Their fresh panini bread defined my good mornings and from the Stupa breakfast café we had views of Borobudur temple as our main course. After breakfast take a stroll through the complex and play with the deer and tease the arrogant peacocks, which are all members of the Plataran Borobudur family.

Blending with the locale harmoniously, Plataran Borobudur is not merely designed for travel snobs. This is the kind of stay that drives you to explore and discover. And what you discover will linger for long within. As I travelled back to Yogyakarta to catch my flight, I had another thought during the time that passed. What was I thinking when I said no to my travel consultant’s initial idea to stay there for a week? Bloody fool me. FRV

Plataran Borobudur Borobudur Magelang, Central Java Tel: +62 293 788 888 www.plataranborobudur.com

Previous page: Entrance to Plataran Borobudur. The yoga and meditation pavilion. The resort lobby with its traditional music instruments. Front terrace of a Pool Villa. Lunch in Patio Restaurant.

This page: The terrace of the Patio Restaurant and inside one of the Grand Villas.

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TIMORGETAWAYS

Timor’s

Island Text by Ian Lloyd Neubauer.

Pictures by Ian Lloyd Neubauer and Courtesy of FreeFlow Diving.

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The French had Devil’s Island and The Spanish had El Matorral – island prisons used by the colonial powers of their day to incarcerate criminals, dissidents and the like. The Portuguese, who ruled East Timor for 450 years, dispatched problemmakers to Atauro Island, a pimple in the sea set directly in front of Dili, 30km across the Wetar Strait.

Today Atauro attracts a different kind of exile – expats based in Dili looking to get away from the once-sleepy capital. It’s also the destination of choice for President José Ramos-Horta and Prime Minister Xanana Gusmão, and the phalanx of bodyguards that follow them around.

village marks the only human presence in the area, where naked brown children run along a palmfringed beach. The water is a perfect translucent blue, affording uninterrupted glimpses of a coral shelf that I’m told is 60 metres wide and begins just three metres offshore.

But getting to Atauro is easier said than done. Until recently, the only way to do so was on a seafaring ferry that departed from Dili every Saturday morning and spent three hours at Atauro before turning home.

Visitors were forced to stay for an afternoon or a whole week, or hitch a ride home on a rickety fishing boat and pray for calm seas. But East Timor is quietly changing. The country has enjoyed relative peace and security since civil strife last struck in 2006, fostering an environment conducive to investment and growth and a new wave of expats are now making their presence felt here – entrepreneurs keen to capitalise on the country’s enormous eco-tourism potential.

“The visibility here is excellent because there’s no runoff,” Miller says, referring to Atauro having no river systems. And while I later learn that the absence of groundwater is a cause of great hardship for the island’s 10,000odd residents, it’s a boon for marine life. Within moments of diving in, I see a sea snake, thousands of reef fish displaying every colour of the rainbow, and a turtle bigger than me.

Among them is Australian Kym Miller, co-owner of one of two charter companies now operating out of Dili. With five vessels on inventory, Kym and her crew offer a variety of day and overnight trips, as well as transport to Atauro. Aimed at high-end, short-stay tourists flying in from Darwin and Bali, the service doesn’t come cheap, though the experience is unique.

“When you go to the Barrier Reef, the dive spots are full of boats,” Miller says. “But here, nobody else is doing the same thing you are. And most of the reefs are pristine, and by that I mean they may only see five or six dive groups every year.”

Two hours after departing from Dili, we are anchored off Arturo’s sparsely populated west coast. A small

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The water is a perfect translucent blue, affording uninterrupted glimpses of a coral shelf that I’m told is 60 metres wide.

But the most dramatic spectacle is yet to come, when we cruise to a spot off the southern point of the island and start coasting around in circles as though we are lost.

“What are we doing?” I ask the skipper.

“Trying to get them to come out.”

“Trying to get who to…”

Before I finish my sentence, I see a group of hazy grey shadows dancing across the surface. Suddenly we are surrounded by them, hundreds upon hundreds of bottlenose dolphins, racing alongside us and catapulting themselves through the air.

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The performance is spellbinding as it is relentless; Seaworld doesn’t even compare to this.

chewing betel nut incessantly and drinking rancid palm wine from old water bottles.

It’s late in the afternoon by the time we circumnavigate the island and pull into Beloi, where another Australian, Barry Hinton, runs a small eco-resort. Comprising four communal, double-story bungalows and a series of open-air huts fitted with daybeds, it’s as low-key as you get but surprisingly well-equipped. Solar panels provide electricity at night, internet is available on request, and bicycles and snorkelling gear are lent out for free.

“This is the bottom of the food chain,” says Barry, pointing out the meagre produce on offer at the market, with each stallholder offering no more than a few yams, a pineapple or two and hands of tiny bananas. “There are no rivers on the island. The only source of water comes from springs or wells and there’s little arable soil – it’s mostly limestone and sand. Next to nothing grows here and the central government doesn’t do anything to help to help them. In a way, it’s East Timor’s East Timor.”

“It’s extremely isolated but very comfortable,” says Australian Ben Kildea, the only other guest I meet during my three-day stint at Atauro. “Life can get pretty crazy in Dili. Here there’s just piece and quiet.” I spend the rest of the day lying in a hammock, peering across the straight, until Barry’s wife calls us in for the evening meal: a veritable feast of fresh garden greens, coconut fish curry, cassava chips and topical fruits for dessert.

We jump back in the Landcruiser and continue our tour, crossing grassy hilltops upon which small wild horses run in the wind. We stop near a precipice that falls hundreds of metres to the sea, where turquoise waters intercept the outline of a coral reef. A few kilometres away lie the Indonesian islands of Alor and Pantar, with the more diminutive Kisar and Wetar Islands trailing off to the east.

Early the next morning, I hear a knock on my door.

Barry has arranged a tour of the island provided courtesy of the local constabulary. But when I step out to meet them I see they are Filipinos, part of the United Nations presence in East Timor. After a quick breakfast we’re off, charging along an unsealed road in a gleaming white Landcruiser.

A half-hour drive takes us to the village of Makadadé, home to a shaggy outdoor market.

Unlike the animated folk of the mainland, the people of Atauro are reticent and reserved. They also look somewhat sickly and malnourished,

Suddenly we are surrounded by hundreds of bottlenose dolphins, racing alongside us and catapulting themselves through the air.

Barry tells me how he arrived here in 2001 as a volunteer with Palm Australia, a privately funded NGO that delivers grassroots solutions to impoverished communities abroad. He helped build the island’s first eco-resort in the capital Vila, which is owned and run by the local community.

He explains how he has to mindful not to be too

TRAVEL FACTS Getting There The Berlin Nakroma leaves Dili at 8am every Saturday.

Tickets are US$20 return and sold at the main wharf.

Compass Charters tel: +67 723 0964 or www. compassadventuretours.com) charges US$450 for a speedboat from Dili to Atauro, with space for eight passengers. A day trip, including snorkelling on Atauro’s west coast and picnic lunch, costs US$800.

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Where to Stay Barry’s Eco Resort Tel: +67 723 6084 or boyhinton@yahoo.com.au) charges US$30 /person /night with all meals included. Tua Ko’in Eco Village Tel: +67 723 605 charges US$25 /person /night.

much of a success, as jealousies can easily flare up on the island. The men he hires for sporadic construction work are banned from working elsewhere to ensure fair distribution of what little employment exists. “This used to be run as a prison camp and the mentality has remained. As simple as life is here, it is very complex,” he says.

The next day, Barry and his extended family begin preparing for an international fishing competition – Atauro’s biggest event to date. Surrounded by deep channels and spared from destructive fishing practices common in Southeast Asia, the Wetar Strait is an angler’s dream. Tuna as big as 80kg have been caught here, while spanish mackerel, swordfish and barracuda are abundant as well.

Held in the last weekend of November each year, the contest also coincides with the whalewatching season. Fourteen different species, including tropical blue whales, beaked whales and humpbacks, traverse the straight during their annual migration from the Antarctic to the Philippines. I am told National Geographic will also arrive here soon to capture the whales for posterity on film. But all these visitors seem a distant dream, and I am left to enjoy the peace and quiet Atauro is renowned for.

“People who come through here say it reminds them of Bali in the 60’s,” Barry says. “There are no bars to get hammered in, the kids don’t ask for money and the traditional way of life is still very much intact. I’m not here to get rich. I’m here for the lifestyle… to bring up my kids in a healthy environment.” FRV

Diving Instruction and Hire FreeFlow Diving in Dili Tel: +67 723 4614 or freeflowdiving@gmail.com, offer three-day PADI Open Water Certificate courses for US$350.

Alternatively, a one-day dive with equipment, transport and guide is US$40.

Further Information For more information on Atauro Island visit www.islandofadventure.tl

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