FRV Travel 7.6

IDR 48.000 - SGD $10.50 - HKD $55.00 - MYR RM26.00 - AUD $10.00 - TWD $230 - THB 190

fine restaurants and villas | bali & southeast asian style

Bali

Fashion, design and style on petitenget beach

Jakarta Jack Rabbit & Tin pan alley

edition 7.6, apr - may ‘11 Rp. 48.000

Five Fabulous

Isles

Thailand

Indigo pearl & into the sea Rp. 48.000

Vietnam

Nha Trang & hanoi

seychelles lord howe taiwan | queenstown | shanghai

d e s i g n f o o d a r c h i t e c t u r e f a s h i o n a r t w i n e r e s t a u FRVr Travel a nl 1 t s

ABSOLUTE B

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S a l e s O f f i c e : Jl. Laksmana Seminyak 999X

+62 361 888 1234

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E B E A C H F R O N T. T O TA L L U X U R Y. B E A C H F R O N T A PA R T M E N T S . E C H O B E A C H . C A N G G U . N O W S E L L I N G .

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CONTENTS FEATURES 38 FASHION

Bali’s Potato Head Beach Club plays host to some fine haute couture and beauty.

76 Seychelles

The quintessential tropical choice of rock stars and royalty gets the FRV Travel treatment.

88 The World is your Oyster

Thomas Jones discovers a post-modern Phuket resort wrapped up in futurist mechanics.

92 Whetting the Appetite: Into the Sea

Thomas Jones goes in for a second helping at this exciting new Phuket restaurant.

100 BayWatch

Katie Truman goes deep into Nga Trang Bay to uncover the secrets of the next tourist boom.

118 Aman Delights

Santana and Jones check out two of Aman’s far flung postings in Indonesia.

On The Cover and page 76:

Nick Walton travels to the Seychelles. North Island.

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14 Calendar

Your guide to exhibitions, music and culture over the upcoming two months in the region.

26 Past Perfect

Katie Truman gets a fix of Javanese architecture and culture at Villa Sallmett.

30 The Laughing Balinese Farmer

Shari tills a field, plants some rice and laughs her way through breakfast, lunch and a spa pampering.

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Five of the world’s most fabulous private islands get the once over from FRV.

34 Mind the Edges

Sarah D has an audience with well-known Italian architect and designer Valentina Audrito.

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CONTENTS

48 Hop to the Next Level

Ve Handojo checks out an Easter treat in an effort to restore his place in society.

56 Pure Bliss Jakarta

Trauts talks to Norbert Vos of Aston about the future of internet marketing and Jakarta traffic jams.

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68 The Silence. Lord Howe

Tin Pan Alley Jakarta.

Nick Walton heads way off into the Tasman Sea to experience the slowest life Australia has to offer.

72 Forty Two

Contemporary design with the highest of standards greet Nick Walton in Queenstown, New Zealand.

126

Rachel Love meets photographer Deborah Cayatano.

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Thomas Jones talks to Julian Moss about his liquor brands and inspiration.

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82 Shanghai Surprise

The lowdown on one of Shanghai’s most central and grooviest small hotels.

86 Location, Location.

Bits & Pieces 16 Beverages 108 Cheese 111 Recipes 112 FRV Zodiac 136 FRV Listings 138 Last Word 154

Koh Samui has a new island resort and it’s worth checking out. The Hansar.

96 Forty Eight Hours Hanoi

With only two days to soak up as much as possible Katie Truman gives up all her secrets of Hanoi.

104 Taiwan

Nick Walton travels under the mountains to an undiscovered rural corner of Taiwan.

EXQUISITE CUISINE. ELEGANT SETTING. EXTRAORDINARY LOCATION. A brilliant dining experience of the finest and premium Asian-influenced haute cuisine.

Prepared by skillful and expert chefs, the menu features a delightful selection for lunch to a menu degustation for dinner, perfectly matched with an exceptional list of 400 wines, by our five-time Wine Spectator Awarded Sommelier.

Toast to the night with a cocktail at the Kayuputi Champagne Bar. All this, in a priceless setting against the backdrop of gentle waves and sea breeze, by the sparkling waters of the Indian Ocean, creating a memorable night.

To experience the flavours of Kayuputi call (62)(361) 8478 111 or email to stregis.bali@stregis.com for reservations.

KAWASAN PARIWISATA NUSA DUA LOT S6 NUSA DUA . BALI 80363 . INDONESIA STREGIS.COM/BALI (62)(361) 8478 111

TO DAY: AS P E N AT L AN TA B AL I B EIJIN G BOR A B O R A D E E R C R ES T H AWAI I HO US TO N L ON D O N M AL L ORCA M E X IC O CIT Y MO NARC H B E AC H N E W YO R K P UN TA MITA RO M E SAN F R AN C I S C O S H AN G H AI S IN GA P O RE WAS H I NG TO N, D. C .

STREGIS.COM Š 2010 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. FRV Travel l 9

PT K ubu Dua Me dia J l. Petitenget 12A, Kerobokan, Bali, Indonesia Te l. +62 361 746 3751/52. Fa x. +62 361 847 5458 email: info@frvtravel.com www.frvtra ve l.c om Dire c tor Guna wa n I nd rob a skoro Graphics Coordinator Sya ffri Soe wa rd i (artwork@frvtra ve l.c om) Gra phic s Te guh Ana nta Photogra phy Moc h. Sulthon, R a ma d ha n, Ad a m Ra syid Distribution Nyoman Rupma Ii n I nd ra p utra , I c ul, Ma d e i nfo@frvtra ve l.c om F ina nc e Sri W ita ri, B a gus Oka Ma rk e ting Gina , De nis, Pha y (sales@frvtravel.com) Administra tion Gina , La lu Contributors Ve Ha nd ojo, Da vid Tra uts, Thoma s Jone s, Erza ST, Nic hola s Wa lton, Katie Truman, Rachel Love, Herman Von Ber nhardi Aguayo, Shari, Ke nny Sa nta na .

Subsc ription Yearly subscription available in Indonesia - Rupiah 250,000 Conta c t: sub sc rib e @frvtra ve l.c om Send e-mail to the above for details.

Consulting Stua rt D W ilford (stua rt@frvtra ve l.c om) Legal Associates Agus Sa mija ya & Pa rtne rs Gra ha Asa , Jl. Ka p te n Cok Agung Tre sna 49 Re non, De np a sa r. Te l: +62 361 242447, 247302, 08123924509.

FRV Tra ve l ma ga z ine is a n inde pe nde nt, bi-monthly public a tion Ne xt e dition de a dline Ma y 15, 2011

FR V Tr a v e l m a g a z i n e i s p r i n t e d u n d e r l i c e n s e d t r a d e m a r k . N o p a r t o f t h i s m a g a z i n e shou ld be re produ c e d with ou t th e wr itte n pe r m ission of th e pu blish e r.

A l l r i g h t s re s e r v e d . A r t i c l e s re f l e c t t h e o p i n i o n s o f t h e a u t h o r s , a n d n o t n e c e s s a r i l y th ose of th e pu blish e r s. F R V Tr a ve l m a ga zin e is pr in te d by P T M e ga I n da h (T: 02161 9 0 5 2 9 ) a n d d i s t r i b u t e d b y ; P T K u b u D u a M e d i a ( I n d o n e s i a ) , P e r i p l u s - J a v a B o o k s (In d o n e s i a ) , P T I n d o p ro m ( I n d o n e s i a ) , F o re i g n P re s s ( H o n g K o n g ) , P a n s i n g D i s t r i b ut i o n (M a l a y s i a ) a n d N a t i o n B o o k s I n t e r n a t i o n a l ( T h a i l a n d ) .

Con ta c t th e e -m a il a ddre sse s a bove f or f u r th e r in f or m a tion .

F RV Travel M agazi n e

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Editor’s Note FRV Travel – It takes you places As Bali enters a new dry season, the sun is shining with beautiful blue mornings and clear skies. This time of year is by far the best in regard to the weather and the perfect time to be here. While the southern part of the island is growing unchecked and unmanaged as the tourism sprawl spreads, maybe it is time to take heed of what people are beginning to say, head north, young man. That could be the future.

In this edition of FRV Travel we again are travelling and holidaying around the island of Bali, the Southeast Asian region and the rest of the world. It’s a challenging journey but enjoyable for all concerned. We hope you enjoy the ride.

Nick Walton is experiencing many parts of the region from Queenstown, NZ luxury to a tunnel that connects old and new Taiwan, before he then finds himself in the middle of the Indian Ocean and the Seychelles. This Kiwi and Hong Kong resident loves to see it all and bring us along for the

ride. Thomas Jones talks food and resorts in Thailand and communicates with the spirits through Australian liquor mogul Julian Moss, while Katie Truman takes us again to her old home of Vietnam with local knowledge on Hanoi and Nha Trang.

In the fast changing landscape of communications we are continually trying to evolve and develop FRV Travel magazine and its platforms. All articles are now placed on the website as they come in which means new stories are going online every week and the magazine is now a reflection of the website whereas before that was in reverse.

Try our new easier website address - www.frvtravel.com and new website format and see for yourself.

Send comments, gripes and letters to: editor@frvtravel.com

FRV CONTRIBUTORS

David Trauts Correspondent, English.

Trauts spoke with Norbet Vas in Jakarta about the changing landscape of hotel marketing in recent years and later smooched around with the model crew at Potato Head Beach Club in Bali. That part of Seminyak/Petitenget has changed so much for the better lately.

Erza S.T. The first quarter of the year has always been slow for our opera producer. He got a bit excited at Tin Pan Alley, however his spirit is continuously looking for a new inspiration. Believe it or not, but seems that the old writer’s block syndrome is happening. He is in search for the right remedy as we speak.

Ve Handojo Ve Handojo has been extra busy during his final months of being a corporate slave. If he could only go to one new restaurant in Jakarta these days, he’d make a reservation in Jack Rabbit. Find out why on page 48.

Rachel Love Told by a fortune teller that her life would take a dramatic change in a move to the East, she arrived in Bali with a few hundred pounds and a vision to fulfill a lifelong dream of being a writer on a tropical island. FRV’s resident arts writer, Rachel is one of Bali’s most prolific authors, writing extensively on all things lifestyle and travel related.

Thomas Jones Thomas spends some quality time in Phuket aquainting himself with some good food and industrial architecture and sits down with Julian Moss to discuss his - and everyone else’s - deep interest in the spirit world.

Nick Walton Nick has been writing on travel for the past 10 years, including most recently as the travel editor for the South China Morning Post. From his home in Hong Kong he regularly travels throughout Asia and beyond, looking for new experiences, trends and destinations, both for his travel pieces in over 60 magazines globally, as well as his weekly radio show.

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25 Fashion Season: Singapore From 25 March to 8 May 2011, celebrate everything to do with fashion at Fashion Season @ Orchard. With six weeks of fabulous fashion-related activities, shopping and dining promotions as well as exclusive parties, you’ll be inspired to dress up and paint the town red when fashion takes to the streets.

12 Getting Wet: Thailand It’s Songkran Festival time again in Thailand from April 1215, with various religious and cultural activities happening.

Although it’s probably best known as a time to stand in the streets to throw water and powder on passersby and have a raucous good time.

15 Timbre Rock & Roots: Singapore Bob Dylan and friends Spearhead, Toots and the Maytails, Imogen Heap and John Legend, Trombone Shorty & Orleans Avenue will be playing on April 15-16 at Marina Parade. Get in early for tickets!

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27 Hello Springtime: (Taiwan) In Taiwan the Penghu Fireworks Festival is coming up on the last Wednesday and Saturday of April, when hundreds of massive fireworks will splay their myriad themes across the skies to herald in the spring.

20 INACRAFT 2011: Jakarta INACRAFT 2011 is considered as one of the largest handicraft exhibitions in Asia and still the biggest in Indonesia. From 20 - 24 April there will be an enormous number of handmade and fabricated handicrafts, from traditional and home industry manufacturers at the exhibition.

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The Easter Uprising: Philippines For those with a taste for the intense then the Good Friday Easter celebrations in Pampanga province north of Manila will be the place for you.

You can witness the sight of devout Christian pilgrims taking the pain of their Lord Jesus Christ literally as they get nailed to the cross on April 22nd.

F1 Madness: KL and Shanghai Petrol heads and fashionistas will be revving their engines in anticipation of the upcoming Formula One races in April in Asia. Shanghai on April 4th and Kuala Lumpur on April 8 – 10. Feel the need, the need for speed!

23 Bieber Madness: Jakarta Justin Bieber fans can scream their pre-pubescent hearts out at the long anticipated Jakarta concert, which will be held at the Sentul International Convention Center on April 23rd. Accompanying parents are advised to take ear plugs.

29 Settin Sail: Fremantle - Bali After a gap of 14 years, the Fremantle to Bali Yacht Race will be held this year with boats under starter’s orders on April 26 with boats expected across the finish line at the Royal Bali Yacht Club on April 29.

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2 5 Fire in the Sky: Thailand The Bun Bangfai Rocket Festival will fire off May 5-9 in Yasathon in northeast Thailand in an effort to ensure the gods send plenty of rain the farmers way during the upcoming riceplanting season.

Cherry Blossoms in the Air: Japan It’s party time in Japan in April for the annual hanami cherry blossom festival. Timing is everything and anytime from early to mid-month the country comes alive in a sea of pink snow as the people turn out to celebrate the coming of spring.

Take a Bow Mr. Fellini: Singapore From 17th Apr - 9th May 2010 the National Museum will be running ‘Fellini. A Complete Retrospective’ featuring the entire opus of his film works.

Twenty one feature films, three omnibus films which Fellini contributed segments and also documentaries on his personal life and work.

Oz Fashion on Stage: Australia The Overseas Passenger Terminal on Sydney Harbour will play host to The Rosemount Australian Fashion Week, Australia’s premier fashion industry event, from May 2-6 and will feature five days of on- and off-site events providing a platform for designers to showcase their wholesale collections to the world.

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The Sport of Kings: Singapore The weeklong Singapore International Racing Festival takes place at the Singapore Turf Club this year from the 16th of May. Look out for the $1 million KrisFlyer Sprint and one of the region’s richest races, the $3 million Singapore International Airlines Cup 2011.

Let it all Out: Singapore One of the most successful synth / electro pop duos of the 80s, Tears For Fears, will be ‘Shouting’ and ‘Saving the World’ at Compass Ballroom at Resorts World Sentosa on May 4, 2010. Step back in time and feel 20 years older.

Equatorial arts: Singapore The Singapore Arts Festival 2011 will run from the 13th May - 5th Jun and will feature a stellar showcase of international performers from the worlds of dance, theatre and music, along with a host of free community events for the public.

The Biennale is Back: Singapore Featuring 63 artists from 30 countries, the Singapore Biennale 2011, titled ‘Open House’, starts on May 15th with contemporary art from around the world, from large-scale installations to intimate encounters that will shed light on how connections and exchanges among individuals, groups, cities and nations are created.

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VILLA SHAMIRA Fabulous five-bedroom family villa near Canggu beach.

The Five-bedroom Villa Shamira, just a ten minute stroll from Canggu beach, makes a gorgeous ‘home from home’ for groups and families. This stylish, yet utterly casual, Bali hideaway welcomes with a 12m swimming pool, lush tropical gardens, a choice of relaxing living areas and a team of staff who are practically part of the family. www.bhmvillas.com

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There has been an EVO-lution Sentosa Bali is just about ready to unveil their new restaurant.

EVO is the name of the newly renovated restaurant at Sentosa Resort in Seminyak, Bali, IN A space that has been completely renovated with glass walls and an air-conditioned area on one side and a large, new bar area facing the swimming pool. The final effect will not be known until mid to late April when EVO, short for Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Evolution, will officially open. The dining will be fine and casual Italian with a bit of Supperclub thrown in for good measure.

ASTON GOES HIGH END IN UBUD Aston International opens their first 5 star plus “Royal Kamuela” villa resort.

The new property, the Royal Kamuela at Monkey Forest – Ubud, features 12 immaculately designed, luxury pool villas in an integrated resort setting with a range of facilities and services such as a full service spa, private butlers for each villa and an eclectic café-restaurant that overlooks a stream running through the resort’s tropical gardens.

Royal Kamuela at Monkey Forest – Ubud sits in the midst of Ubud’s main attractions just a few hundred meters from the entrance to the Monkey Forest and is within walking distance of many attractive restaurants, art galleries and boutiques, making it an ideal location from which to enjoy Ubud’s many offerings. Aston also operates upper mid-market villas In Seminyak and Sanur and will soon open another upmarket Royal Kamuela in Nusa Dua. www.kamuelavillas.com

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Christmas in the durian A charitable Christmas from the Jakartan hotels.

The members of the Jakarta International Hotels Association (JIHA) recently presented the money collected during the JIHA Christmas Charity project, to three charities recently after a most unusual fundraising campaign.

Members of JIHA decided to contribute to protecting the environment, by NOT sending Season’s Greetings cards to their clients in 2010. With support from some of the most prestigious publications in Jakarta, the association instead placed prominent advertisements explaining the charitable program and wishing clients a joyful festive season and a prosperous 2011. The money saved by not sending the annual mail outs has been donated to charity with a total of Rp 128,5 million being presented to the Indonesia Care for Cancer Kids Foundation, which provides every child with cancer the best access to treatment and care; Yayasan Citra Baru, which helps children and young people with cranio-facial surgery; and the Emmanuel Foundation which provides free food and education for malnourished children and scavenger communities. www.jakartahotelsassociation.com.

How high can you fly?

Fernandes kneels before the Queen for his CBE. AirAsia Group CEO, Lotus Team Principal, and Malaysia’s iconic entrepreneur Tony Fernandes has been awarded a Commander of the Order of the British Empire honour by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II “for services to promote commercial and educational links” between the United Kingdom and Malaysia.

Apart form the well-known airline, Formula One team and Tune Hotels ventures, Fernandes was also the major mover and key partner in the effort to locate a campus of Britain’s prestigious Epsom College in Malaysia. It is a venture close to his heart, as he was once a student at the boarding school in London. Fernandes expressed delight at the news of the CBE.

Rubbing Shoulders with the Best World experts in gobal spa industry to gather in Bali.

Bali is playing host to the Global Spa Summit at both the Bali International Convention Center and the Laguna Luxury Collection, Nusa Dua from May 15-18, 2011. The Indonesia Ministry of Culture and Tourism, in a nod to the importance of the industry in Bali’s economy, is stepping up to the plate as one of the main platinum sponsors of the event.

The summit seeks to discover solutions and strategies for the world’s spa industry, which has become a growth leader in the world tourism circles and is aimed at attracting worldwide participation from leaders in the spa industry.

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How fast can you go?

Ferrari theme park off to a roaring start.

In Less than six months of operations the world’s largest indoor theme park, Ferrari World Abu Dhabi, has exceeded all expectations, having welcomed hundreds of thousands of guests, reaffirming its position as an iconic experience in Abu Dhabi.

The state-of-the-art rides at the park provide a unique experience which brings Ferrari’s spirit to a wide audience, exemplified by family-friendly attractions such as Speed of Magic, one of the most technically advanced 4-D attractions in the world and the adrenalin pumping Formula Rossa, the world’s fastest roller coaster. Retail is also in pole position as guests have snapped up the official Ferrari World Abu Dhabi products as a memory of the experience, and have made its Ferrari Store emerge as the best performer of all the stores worldwide. Guests have also enjoyed the real Italian experience through special set menus based on the authentic ingredients from Emilia-Romagna, the region of the home of Ferrari, and the only certified Napolitana pizza in the Middle East.

Sydney Spends Big $7 billion to draw business events to the city.

Details of Sydney’s most exciting waterfront development for conferences, conventions and incentive travel have been revealed and a whopping great $7 billion has been dropped on the table to pay for it. Barangaroo, as it is known, will transform 22 hectares of former wharves and industrial space on Sydney Harbour into a huge public, residential and commercial CBD precinct with a waterfront promenade running the length of the site. The Sydney 20 l FRV Travel

Convention and Exhibition Centre will be expanded to create more space for major international events, while Star City is undergoing a major renovation. Barangaroo will become a major hub in Sydney’s CBD, with a major hotel, commercial office towers, residential apartments, retail, restaurants and cultural facilities in a busy public waterfront precinct, with public open space and a new Headland Park.

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The Masters’ Banquet Two of Australia’s biggest chefs are on their way to Jakarta.

TONY BILSON

SERGE DANSEREAU

ikemalada, the chefs are the affiliates of ikemalada consultancy.

The Nest Grill and Ikamalada Consultancy are inviting the celebrated chefs and restaurant owners Tony Bilson and Serge Dansereau to Jakarta for the “Masters’ Banquet” to showcase their culinary skills to a discerning crowd. Renowned worldwide for their extraordinary skills and techniques the event will be the first time for both chefs to collaborate and design an exquisite menu for Jakarta’s foodies. Over three days,Tony Bilson and Serge Dansereau, in collaboration with Ikamalada, will be serving a gala dinner on April 28, 2011 at Rumah Maroko in Jakarta, that will be hosted by Erza S.T. and followed by two days of private degustation nights at The Nest Grill Restaurant.

FRV spoke with Arnold Poernomo from The Nest Grill about the upcoming culinary event.

How did this event come about and what is your reason for doing it?

I’ve been living overseas in Sydney for the past decade and just recently came back to Jakarta. Since I’ve been back here, I’ve noticed how far Jakarta’s food industry has grown over the past decade, remembering back to the times as a kid living in Indonesia, the fanciest restaurant would be a steak house, where back then they served a thin layer of meat on top of a hot-plate and covered it in gravy. One day I was reading an article written by Erza S.T. the food reviewer, and there was one line that caught my attention “the Jakarta culinary landscape is improving more than the city itself”. As one of the world’s bigger metropolitan cities Jakarta is experiencing this global phenomena. Therefore I wanted to organise this event through The Nest Grill and Ikamalada Consultancy and invite Tony Bilson and Serge Dansereau from Australia for the “Masters’ Banquet” to showcase their culinary skills to the ever more sophisticated diners of Jakarta.

Are you connected with these two chefs and how?

Yes, through Ikemalada. Ikemalada is a hospitality consultant in both Sydney and Indonesia Ikamalada consultancy currently active in Sydney with their work at Sydney Dance Lounge Walsh Bay and in Jakarta is The Nest Grill. The relationship between the chefs and 22 l FRV Travel

Are the three restaurants where the event will be hosted connected somehow?

No, they are not connected. We are only doing the event in a show room, a function hall and also The Nest Grill itself so we can showcase both the chef’s culinary skills and The Nest Grill’s culinary concept of bringing an international taste and technique to your table.

So the other two venues aren’t restaurants?

No, the other two venues are not restaurants. We’ll have the chefs come over for a few days earlier to inspect the equipment and letting us know what additional equipment they require to be able to suit the chef style’s.

What kind of food can we expect to enjoy from the chefs?

You will see individual dishes from two of Australia’s most respected chefs. Tony will introduce the refinement of classic French cuisine with recipes for which he has become famous. He will produce some of his best dishes from the many restaurants that he has taken to great culinary heights in Australia. Serge will provide his favourite dishes from his repertoire of memorable market-based cuisine; his search over the years for the best small producers has led him to create recipes with a lightness and respect for the best ingredients he was able to have grown, raised or farmed for him.

What do you think is the reason these famed chefs want to come to Jakarta? Have they told you?

They both have a constant need to explore and understand new cultures and cuisines. Jakarta will be a first for both of them and they cannot wait to see, explore and understand one of the most vibrant metropolises of the region, and one of Australia’s most important neighbours. As chefs they have an acute sense of curiousity and the invitation to come to Jakarta, despite their heavy work load, was for them irresistible.

And Chef Serge Dansereau answered for himself via email.

We both have a true love of French cuisine and its classic method of cooking and this will show in our choice of recipes and dishes that we will cook. There are probably no other chefs in Australia who have contributed so much to improve the availability of quality produce in this country but also to develop over the years a distinct Australian style. This we are grateful to be able to demonstrate and cook for our guests in Jakarta.

For further information please contact: Ms. Eunike Sutiono Mob: + 62 816 114 2719 / Tel: +62 21 2555 4614 E-mail: info@nestgrill.com

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Arts in the House.

Artist residence programme at Karma producing some sublime turns.

Visitors to Karma Kandara in Bali may have noticed a lot of interesting and eccentric characters moving around the resort over the past few months and wondered what was going on. February saw two acclaimed, young, Australian fashion designers, Alvin Fernandez and Annmarie McGinn from ae'lkemi take part in a two-day fashion event highlighting their creations on the catwalk with cocktail parties, dinners and celebrated DJs which brought the house down much to the delight of both in-house and outside guests. Other guests invited to stay have included Swedish singer/ songwriter FridaHyvönen and the Westerm Force rugby team from Western Australia.It is all part of the Xenia Initiative, which is designed to attract a selection of fascinating and diverse talents to spend time at Karma Kandara with the aim of providing an environment conducive to their particular talents.

Artists, fashion designers, singers, sports people, spiritual healers and musicians have been rubbing shoulders with the hoi polloi as part of the ‘Artists in Residence’ programme at the resort, designed to both entertain and stimulate the guests. But, not to worry, they don’t bite.

Discovering a New L.J. Hotel in Surabaya Jakarta, Bali and now Surabaya gets the red carpet teatment.

When it comes to hotel chains, international groups such as Ritz Carlton, Hyatt or The Four S easons. stand out. However, in Indonesia one leading hotel group that seems to get bigger every year are the Discovery Hotels & Resorts, which include the legendary Hotel Borobudur Jakarta and the Discovery Kartika Plaza Beach hotel situated in Tuban, Bali. But what about Surabaya, you say? Behold!

Discovery Hotels & Resorts have just announced the opening of the L.J. Discovery Hotel Surabaya in mid 2011, a deluxe five star hotel that is located in the most prominent address along Jalan Basuki Rahkmat Boulevard in the heart of the city. Loads of rooms, two bars, three international restaurants (including a Chinese and a steak house), plus a 2,000 square metre ballroom with many others facilities which are guaranteed to make the hotel a strong contender for others in this city. www.ljdiscoveryhotel.com 24 l FRV Travel

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BALIVILLA

Text by Katie Truman

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ast erfect

Top left: Style meets the anciect world in the joglo’s interiors.

It’s perhaps an understatement to say Villa Salimett is a luxury Bali holiday residence with a difference. But it is. In fact, it’s quite unique. Four distinctive cone-shaped roofs protruding out from private walled grounds, in a village along Bali’s southwest coastline, is a small hint. Enter carved black wood doors to discover more.

Top right:Indulgent bathing under the stars in an open-air bathroom.

Bottom: 21st century luxuries include the gorgeous centrestage 20m pool.

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architectural masterpiece, Villa Salimett offers a rare sojourn in traditional Indonesian heritage.

Surrounded by Canggu’s semi-rural landscape and a short stroll from the surf-breaks of Berawa Beach, this spectacular four-bedroom property welcomes with old island architecture. It is evocative of a traditional rural community from many moons ago – because it probably was. But not in Bali.

The villa’s accommodation incorporates traditional Javanese joglo dwellings transported across from Java. Rectangular shaped, constructed almost entirely of fine aged teak FRV Travel l 27

Below: A master bedroom like no other you’ve spent the night in! And the beautifully camouflaged TV viewing area, within the main living pavillion.

woods and capped with cone-shaped ironwood roofs, resembling quirky hats, they have been re-erected and modified into four bedrooms, extended with small porches and ensuite bathrooms. Each is beautifully spaced in a rough square formation within the villa’s expansive lawn gardens. Created from authentic antique dwellings as they are, naturally, these individual bedrooms are unique in character, size and layout, but all come with a hefty dollop of atmospheric charm. The master bedroom is not only the largest, but the finest example of this centuries-old Javanese architecture; its grandiose feel accentuated with a high-vaulted ironwood ceiling decorated with intricate carvings.

More than mere places to rest, the bedrooms evoke the lived-in feel of an age-old Indonesian dwelling. However, fear not, you don’t have to live like generations ago to experience your very own living-breathing museum. Villa Salimett was completed in 2010, and with the owners’ – and now guests’ – discerning tastes in mind, luxe comforts have not been overlooked. Traditions

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Facing page: Dine in style on a table crafted from a single block of teak wood.

Villa Salimett was completed in 2010, and with the owners’ – and now guests’ – discerning tastes in mind, luxe comforts have not been overlooked.

seamlessly blend with modern-day luxuries and quality natural materials.

Bathrooms are the height of indulgence; true, interiors are crafted from old woods, but these are contemporarystyle bathrooms with stand-alone bathtubs and, with the exception of one, open-air, tropical style. The most impressive features an eye-catching stone bathtub topped with large antique decoration, accessed by stepping stones across an ornamental pool.

Some luxuries aren’t so obvious; several of the flat-screen TVs come discreetly hidden in antique wooden chests and air-conditioning units camouflaged behind wooden grills.

The most blatant modern concession, however, is the 20 metre infinity-edge pool built from natural stone, but even here, the adjoining pool bar is old-style, constructed from antique woods – for sundowners with a difference!

All this can be surveyed from the palatial living-dining pavilion; raised on slightly higher ground, it is essentially the property’s heart. Nods again to tradition come with its architectural design; open-sided, soaring ironwood roof and beautifully aged and reclaimed timbers. It’s accessed by a wonderfully Zen water feature and complemented by personally sourced antique ornaments, including massive bronze dinner gong, and furniture pieces.

But overall, this open-plan, magnificent pavilion is all about relaxed, contemporary Indonesian-style living, with a contrasting stylishly modern look. Note the central living area of white cushioned couches and armchairs (so gloriously comfy, it’s hard to extricate yourself ) and adjoining stone-walled kitchen, compact yet utterly chic with black terrazzo stone counters and central teak workstation.

And opposite, perhaps the epitome of Villa Salimett: a low-ceilinged raised wooden section with teakframed daybed, revealing on closer inspection, hi-tech compliances of flat-screen TV, DVD player and sound system.

A peaceful sanctuary of exceptional taste, Villa Salimett is a fine example of living in the past without having to forgo any modern-day comforts. FRV

Villa Salimett Canggu, Bali Bali Homes Management Tel +62 361 731 074 www.marketingvillas.com FRV Travel l 29

Baliescape

Text by Shari

Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan offers guests a unique “Day in the Life of a Balinese Farmer” program that not only gives you an insight into the bucolic lifestyle of a Balinese farmer and how to grow rice, but also includes an easy trek through the rice fields, breakfast, lunch and a traditional spa treatment – an all day adventure available to everyone.

Experience A Day As A Laughing

Balinese Farmer

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at the end of a hard working day, the farmers and their wives will meet at the shelter in the field, called a pondok, to rest, tell stories about their day and enjoy a good laugh.

Above: Eka and the laughing farmers after a hard day in the rice fields turning the soil.

R

eady for a day in the fields we arrived at the resort, wearing comfortable clothing and shoes and a hat for the sun to meet Eka, our guide. He led us into the sunshine, laughing and smiling as he pointed out the various herbs growing in the gardens and their health benefits.

My friend, an avid gardener, was asking countless questions as we walked and Eka was able to answer them all. Eka also teaches yoga and laugh therapy, which explained the laughing and insistence that we join him. “Laughing makes you happy and healthy� he explained with a beaming smile.

He led us off through the picturesque, terraced rice fields of the Ayung River valley, an easy trek, where we witnessed the activities of the local farmers and learned about the complex irrigations system used in the ricefields - the subak. Eka talked about the life of a Balinese farmer, how they are considered artists of the land, and how at the end of a hard working day, the farmers and their wives will meet at the shelter in the field, called a pondok, to rest, tell stories about their day and enjoy a good laugh.

From the ricefields we walked through Sayan village, passing through the rustic homes of the local people until we reached the last house where a door leads back into the resort. Eka told us we had to give a hearty laugh before the door would open. So, we all laughed loudly, the door opened, and we passed into the kingdom of Four Seasons.

Once inside, we were led to a small bale bengong relaxation pavilion overlooking the vivid green rice which cascaded in giant staircases from the hilltops to the river. A table was beautifully laid with painted baskets, coconut shell bowls, cups and saucers, while a waiter explained the Balinese delicacies provided for our breakfast - fresh fruit and juices, black rice pudding and delicately spiced noodles. On an outdoor fire sat a large kettle for our tea and coffee.

After breakfast, Eka reappeared to guide us through the ricefields on the property. He introduced us to Munman, the laughing head gardener, who taught us how to plant rice. We learned that the Balinese grow three different kinds; white, red and black, and he explained that three crops a year of white rice can be produced, but only two of red and black. Taking the golden grains of harvested rice kernals we were shown how to lay them on wet mud then cover them with straw to keep away the birds. It takes 20 days for the seeds to sprout into 20cm long green stems, ready for planting. Munman had some shoots waiting for us. We turned the mud with a pitchfork, smoothed it with a large wooden scraper, then stepped barefoot into the mud to plant.

Afterwards, while we sat on the grass sipping from a fresh coconut, Eka and Munman re-enacted

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Planting the rice followed by a hardearned breakfast overlooking the rewards of their toil.

part of the Kecak dance while we provided the background ‘cheka-cheka-cheka-cheka’, shaking our hands and laughing along with the show.

The show over, we were led to a spa villa for some serious pampering. After donning bathrobes and enjoying a footbath, a herbal blend of coconut oil was massaged into our scalps to condition the hair.

We learned that bathing in the river is both an ageold ritual and a social event for the Balinese and over the melodious rhythm of the swift-flowing water, villagers share laughter, songs, gossip, and stories. However, for us, an enormous bathtub was filled with hot water and a mountain of suds.

Our clothes, meanwhile, were whisked away to be laundered, an unsurpassed service. When we emerged from the bath, our smiling therapists scrubbed away the dirt of a hard day in the fields with a riverstone bathing ritual called Batukali, then lulled us into deep relaxation with a fragrant coconut oil massage. Fully rejuvenated, we were ready for the last part of our Balinese adventure and our guide was waiting to take us to lunch, guiding 32 l FRV Travel

us past the rice fields so we could inspect our efforts. Laughing at our handiwork, we observed that some of the plants weren’t very straight. Eka told us our crop would be ready for harvest in three months. “We’ll be back to harvest it,” I laughed.

We turned the mud with a pitchfork, smoothed it with a large wooden scraper, then stepped barefoot into the mud to plant.

Next to the rushing river a bale bengong had been set with our lunch:, the traditional nasi campur that a farmer’s wife might prepare and share with her husband. Ours consisted of red rice, a selection of vegetables known as urap, fish, chicken and fried soybean tempe. During our delicious lunch a photo album was brought to us, containing recipes for nasi campur, photos of our day and a certificate of achievement of Balinese Farming. Now that’s something I can put on my resumé. FRV

Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan.

Tel: +62 361 977 577 www.fourseasonsbali.com/sayan

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BALIDESIGN

Text by Sarah D Photos by Sulthon & WOM

Mind t

h

e

Edges V alentina A u drito , A rchitect

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Facing page: Full of colour and fun, with soaring ceilings, Word Of Mouth’s café, bar and retail space in Jl Kunti provides the perfect showcase for the many elements of WOM.

A

battle is raging in Bali as aesthetics challenge government and traditionalists fight modernists, and, seemingly against the odds, while they continue to fight, Bali soaks up creative influences like a proverbial sponge while maintaining its essential cultural character.

One Bali-based architect, Valentina Audrito, co-owner of Word Of Mouth, feels that all architecture that employs quality and intelligence and is built according to sound design principles of space, light and sensitivity to environmental factors, has a place. “This is a place where there are no urban regulations, which allows for an element of freedom. In some cases people choose to be their own architect and there is good and bad in that.

It is great that people have the freedom of creative expression and this can lead to interesting ideas but sometimes, it is just bad,” she says seriously.

Defying classification and reluctant to apply labels to her own designs, there are elements which make her spaces recognisable. Fresh, modern, softened with round edges and

Left: The Kiss Hotel project was designed to appeal to a young, funky clientele. Compact and quirky, colour and round edges are trademarks of WOM Designs.

applying colour creatively, there is a kind of industrial edge to her architectural spaces, often characterised by soaring ceilings and cement floors. Her signature, which she claims she really can’t explain, is the egg, one of nature’s most perfect creations. Her dream was to become a ballerina and although she quit to study architecture in Italy and Barcelona, the discipline has carried over into her work. “I like to think that I am a minimalist in my exteriors and a maximalist in my interiors,” she laughs.

Her own house, which she shares with her partner in life and business, Abhishake (Abhi) Kumbhat is a wonderful representation of their work and a very personal project.

Their on-site office, which has been designed by the Word of Mouth team also points to a definitive style. Word Of Mouth is abbreviated to WOM by the couple who have put their stamp on their unusual café cum bar cum shop cum design showroom. With a sleight of hand it could easily read WOW! The unexpected and playful attitude to design belies a much more serious commitment,

Right: Italian born and trained, Valentina Audrito.

passion and understanding of the fundamentals of good design. The showroom is a work in progress and flirts with retro objects, their own designs, Valentina’s concept of space and the yin and yang created by their different approaches. While Valentina likes to soften a space with rounded edges, Abhi favours sharp edges and triangular designs, creating a playful juxtaposition in their work.

Valentina has been coming to Bali since she was ten years old. Her father is also an architect in Turin where she grew up. Ten years ago she was offered her first commission in Bali and she has been here ever since.

She met Abhi at Kudeta, she recalls, a smile playing on her face. When I ask him about it he almost chokes, “She told you that?” he gasps. They now have two children and work closely together.

“Valentina approaches everything she does with great intelligence,” he explains, “We share a great passion for design and we only produce things that we both feel really committed to. The thing I most admire about her is her use of space, she has a real talent FRV Travel l 35

Top left: Various design elements add colour and texture to this whimsical hotel villa at KISS. Below: The WOM offices where architecture meets design.

in her understanding of how to balance spaces,” he continues.

The most outstanding feature of Valentina’s work, apart from her soaring ceilings and brilliant use of space, is the way she combines natural and mamade elements in her work. Industrial warehouse-like spaces are softened with bamboo and hand-painted tiles, natural wood and shell. Often white, a play of colour is also represented in her work, blue is a favourite and is often seen.

Her team at Word of Mouth includes five architects and two designers. She sometimes creates the entire project from the design to the interiors; at other times just parts of the job. So far she has completed seven commissions from start to finish but her many other projects including furniture and fashion design and consulting on retail, residential and commercial spaces fill her days.

Projects she has done, like the funky Kiss Hotel in Seminyak, the compact Lovelli

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residence, the spacious and elegant beach front Tantangan residence in Nyanyi Beach, all sparkle with personality. Word of Mouth in Jalan Kunti, their own private home and the office space of Word of Mouth are all brilliant examples of the personal design principles of this team.

When asked about her influences she is thoughtful indicating that there are elements she admires in the work of others without being directly influenced.

However, she sites Oscar Niemeyer, one of the world’s most famous architects, noted for his designs which employ straight and rounded shapes to create innovative architectural masterpieces, as one of her heroes. He designed the city of Brasilia, the country’s capital.

Word of Mouth has shown their furniture pieces at some of the most exclusive furniture fairs in Milan and Paris and now sell around the world. In their own business Abhi and Valentina are working towards another Word of Mouth venue on the Bukit, which may be decades away,

Right: Valentina and Abhi’s bathroom and dressing room combines old and new, natural and man-made in a wonderful blend of colour and finishing.

jokes Abhi. Funky, contemporary and full of quirky personality, Valentina says she is sensitive to the fact that her architecture will leave a lasting impression and that is a weight she is conscious of. “What I love about architecture is its ability to move people. The greatest architecture ever from the wall of China to the pyramids to The Louvre will inspire people to travel.

Nature can do this also.”

Only time will tell what mark Valentina will leave on Bali, a place that she loves.

Famous for incorporating new ideas and playing with creative concepts the landscape of Bali is without doubt going to be more colourful for the influence of Valentina and Word of Mouth. FRV

Word of Mouth Jl Kunti, Kunti Arcade, Shop 10 Seminyak, Bali PH: +62 361 847 5797 www.wordofmouthbali.com

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POTATO HE A D

BALIFASHION

Dinda Rella and Potato Head Beach Club come together to shine. the Dinda Rella philosophy is to create Dream Dresses for the woman who loves quality, while phbc is designed to capture dream holidays and dining experiences for people who love to travel well.

They work beautifully together.

Text by Trauts Photos by Adam Rasyid Garment: A Stunning Wedding Dress Material : Chiffon silk with Swarovski embroidery and beading leading to the pleated waist.

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Garment: Chic Purple Long Dress Material : Chiffon and sateen silk with French lace combination diamond embroidery line.

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Garment: Blue Degrade Dress Material : Chiffon silk with bright stunning stones and embroidery on the top.

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Garment: Purple Strapless Dress Material : Pleated sateen silk and chiffon silk combination with diamond fall on flawless application.

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Garment: Sexy Black Degrade Dress Material : Chiffon silk pleated with flower application, Swarovski and embroidery leading to the waist.

Potato Head Beach Club Jl. Petitenget Seminyak, Bali Tel: +62 361 737 979 www.ptthead.com.com

Model: Rani (booking.bali@rightcharacter.com) Wardrobe: Dinda Rella Stores in Oberoi, Seminyak Bali and Kemang Jakarta www.dindarella.com Photos: Adam/Trauts Styling: Donnie Ardhia/Trauts Make-up: Yusnita Daromes Assistants: Dedi/Happy 46 l FRV Travel

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JAKARTAJACKRABBIT

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Left: The mini-lounge outside the VIP rooms is the perfect bolt hole from boring dinner guests.

Right: The main dining area and mezzanine.

Jack Rabbit:

Hop to the The place has been the talk of the town, so Ve Handojo went there twice to keep himself in the loop.

Next Level

My

first night out in Jack Rabbit was only for a drink, and it was an unforgettable one. The Merlot I ordered came sparkling inside a tulip glass, and the colour was transparent. It might have become my last visit there had my friends not been talking about the 12-hour pork belly that they serve. On top of it, I was threatened with being kicked out of my social circle if I couldn’t enjoy this latest bistro on the block.

With low expectations of the service side, I made a reservation on a less busy Sunday evening. Oh, the peer pressure of Jakarta’s society!

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The long, rectangular space is divided into a decent bar, a simple lounge for easy dining and snacking, a main dining space, the outdoor area, and the mighty, elevated VIP dining rooms on the golden-caged mezzanine. Lights are dimmed to dramatize the simple setting and the use of metal elements sports an industrial theme.

The design is a lifestyle magazine’s definition of ‘urban chic’. Come either with your Hugo Boss suits, Alberta Ferretti dresses, or Fred Perry tees to feel appropriate - though Jack Rabbit himself doesn’t apply a strict dress code.

I was threatened with being kicked out of my social circle if I couldn’t enjoy this latest bistro on the block.

We were seated directly in the lounge area and the waitress was sensitive enough to read 50 l FRV Travel

Left and above: The bar and lounge area where weekends in Jakarta are redefined.

Alongside is the famous 12-hour pork belly.

Far left from top: Steak d’ foie gras with charred pineapple, pan-seared duck breasts on mushroom and pea risotto, and vanilla panna cotta to finish.

my facial expression that showed a slight dissatisfaction over the assigned table, and quickly explained that the main dining area would not allow my partner to smoke until after 9pm. Instead of feeling slighted I studied the comprehensive menu, and glided to the Chef ’s Recommendations that I found all worth trying.

The popular 12-hour pork belly is showered with whiskey and the chunky cubes come with a four mustard blend, pink peppercorn skins, and sage emulsion. The meat was so tender we didn’t feel the need to bite it at all. It was best just to keep it inside the mouth to dissolve slowly and let the heaven-sent sensation spread. A truly appetite raising starter.

The steak d’foie gras with charred pineapple came next and it was a little disappointing. The zero-point-something millimetre surface was not as crispy as I expected, while the bouncy meat itself didn’t have the usual strong and raw flavour. Combining foie gras with pineapple was the first for me, and I must say, now all I can remember is how the pineapple tasted.

However, the pistachio-crusted opakapaka fish was a joy to have as a main course. The multiple food-gasm came after I swiped the white meat over the big kahuna salsa, and followed it with the accompanying kawai shrimp and mango salad. The pan-seared duck breast came on top of mushrooms and pea risotto, sprinkled with shimeji mushroom, and dressed with balsamic truffle sauce. All the combined tastes were as good in the mouth as they looked written on the menu board.

We had our desserts in the outdoor area - a lively patio with a long dipping-pool to create a sense of serenity. The simple trees across the pool create an organic border between Jack Rabbit and the busy street in Kuningan area. My Bailey’s and Kahlua tiramisu was a creamy cake, lacking in coffee flavour and a liquor kick. Good as a fancy toddler’s birthday cake. I finished my moscato way before I could finish the cake.

The vanilla panna cotta was bouncy, fine, and smooth, and came with strawberry reduction, and fruits in white wine syrup. My lucky partner had obviously made a slightly better choice.

Jack Rabbit delivers quite a nice experience that may impress your first date, or corporate guests with power syndrome. With the logo and the name, Jack Rabbit it will surely be the first place to get booked-up around Easter. Consider yourself lucky if you can get a table here during the weekend, and consider yourself even luckier if you’re not the one to pay the bill. As for me, I at least have resecured my spot in Jakarta’s vain social loop. FRV

Jack Rabbit Cyber 2 Tower Jl. HR Rasuna Said Block X-5 No. 13 South Jakarta Tel: +62 21 2902 1357 www.jackrabbitjakarta.com FRV Travel l 51

JAKARTATINPANALLEY

Going Retro at

Tin Pan Alley Text by Erza S.T. Photos by Ramadhan

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Jakarta continues to lap up industrial style decors and unchallenging bistro dining like never before.

Erza st is not adverse to it though, he actually loves it. this one is the new tin pan alley.

Above left: Part of the dining area featuring classic Michael Thonetdesigned chairs.

Above right: Hearty American fare.

Mushroom-stuffed chicken breast with butter sauce, and tomato basil soup.

Facing page: The design is a time capsule to the turn of the 20th century.

B

ack in the early 20th century in New York New York’s Manhattan, a famous place existed on West 28th Street between Fifth and Sixth Avenue called Tin Pan Alley. During the start of the Great Depression in the 1930’s, when the phonograph and radio supplanted sheet music, Tin Pan Alley grew as the centre of operations for renowned music publishers and songwriters who dominated popular music at the time. Famous names such as Irving Berlin, George and Ira Gershwin, Al Sherman, Cole Porter and many others are characters that made Tin Pan Alley’s reputation famous worldwide. Tin Pan Alley became so famous that even the good people of Britain created their own “British Tin Pan Alley”. Now, fast-forward that story to our present day and voila, almost a century later, here’s Jakarta’s own Tin Pan Alley.

Inspired by the original, Jakarta’s version is actually a restaurant that has an American

bistro concept and we love how the ambience of vintage America is strongly featured in this eatery. Brick walls, big mirrors, classic Thonet chairs, wooden floors and vintage bric-a-brac such as gramophones, old luggage and wooden hand-cranked wall telephones really brings you back to the golden time of the 1920’s.

The magic also continues in the food. As an American bistro, Tin Pan Alley in Jakarta has an impressive menu and is far from being pretentious. Holding tight to their concept of American-style cooking, Tin Pan Alley serves simple yet hearty food like cobb salad, grandma’s fried chicken right through to a variety of pies. Yes, the menu sounds rather ordinary, but luckily the experience was far from that.

From our several visits there, we found some winning dishes. The first one to start with is 28th St. Potato Skins that are deep-fried and FRV Travel l 53

baked, filled with roasted bell peppers and sautéed chopped spinach, and topped with melted mozzarella cheese. This great appetizer does not only raise your appetite, but it is also vegetarian friendly.

We were also caught by surprise with Tin Pan Alley’s amazing Hearty Chili in a Bowl that beats any existing chili in this city. The Cajun style chili con carne is absolutely delicious to the last spoon.

Top: Tin Pan Alley’s sexy lounge. Long and very industrial.

Below: Stuffed chicken breast alongside the Aloha Burger. With pineapple sauce, it’s no ordinary taste.

Moving on to the main course section, we were taken aback with the tantalizing Aloha Burger that comes with french fries and coleslaw like a true American burger. Not like any ordinary burger, this comes with a twist where they put a secret homemade pineapple sauce on the patty together with other ingredients. The surprise comes after the first bite with its juicy and pungent taste. It is quite addictive.

For a new restaurant they understand that beautiful décor and concept alone are not enough to make them a winner.

It is only natural to assume that this kind of menu and concept comes from an American native, but it does not.

Instead, this is all coming from the 54 l FRV Travel

mind of Nathalia Bernhard and Irene Chandra who were inspired by downtown New York, where lots of little streets and charming intimate restaurants are located. Together, they have worked with Chef Rano Abryanto to create this luscious menu. The result is far from disappointing.

For a new restaurant they understand that beautiful décor and concept alone are not enough to make them a winner.

Their so-called American bistro concept might not come as sophisticated as French food or modern cuisine that is the current trend. However, they understand how to make these simple dishes outstanding and combine it with excellent service. Though inconsistencies still tend to happen every now and then, the overall experience is always pleasant and worth the money.

We shall certainly come back for dinner or breakfast; or even to just lounging around the sexy bar area while listening to the melodies of Cole Porter or Gershwin…it is that kind of place. FRV

Tin Pan Alley Thamrin Nine Podium / UOB Lobby Floor #F Jl. M.H. Thamrin No. 10 Jakarta Tel: +62 21 3000 7881

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JAKARTAINSIGHTs

Amiable, confident and experienced, norbet vas has been in the hotel marketing game for a long time and has seen many changes. he shares insights with David Trauts

Pure Bliss Jakarta N

orbert Vas has been VP Sales & Marketing Director for Aston International for the past three years and before that was working as Director of Operations at the InterContinental Resort in Bali. Marketing is all over his CV including stints at Mandarin Oriental, Shangri-La Hotel & Resorts and Ian Schraeger Hotels in New York City where Norbert was involved in launching the designer boutique hotel trend with such iconic hotels as the Paramount on Times Square, The Royalton and The Barbizon. The Austrian national speaks with FRV’s David Trauts about the Aston Group’s present and future, the influence of the internet on the hospitality industry, and (why not?) he gives a handy tip on living in Jakarta.

While Aston International’s main focus is managing mid-market hotels, which are very profitable according to Norbert, the group also has five star properties. The Royal Kamuela brand is a luxury villa product with the first one opening in Ubud

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Norbet Vas Speaks to FRV Travel this past March with more rolling out soon.

There’s also the five-star Grand Aston already open in Medan and one more under construction in Yogyakarta. Three out of the 35 hotels Aston manages are five-star properties and that’s growing, but the main focus is on the mid-range accommodation.

“Fave is a two star brand and my favorite,” Norbert told FRV in the Aston International HQ on Jalan Casablanca last month. “It simply focuses on what is important and as I’d say, the three B’s; Bed, Bath and Breakfast. If those three are right, like the bed being comfortable with the right linen etc, the water pressure good in the bathroom and the breakfast being tasty and value for money, then people will come back. Good value, a little bit of sex appeal and well-designed is how I would describe Fave. They are in Denpasar and Surabaya, and 22 more are under construction around the country and region. It’s a young brand but going places.”

It seems that everything has been turned upside down since the arrival of the internet.

How has the marketing game been changing lately?

Previously it was mostly all about volume sales; sales to corporate entities, travel agents, tour operators, trade shows and all that. Now it’s all about distribution and especially the internet. In Bali now we do around 40-50% of our trading volume on the internet. That compares to 10% two years ago. With the villas we operate we achieve 70% bookings from the internet.

So the internet is having a massive influence?

I recall I was working in a downtown hotel in Chicago 12 years ago and started experimenting with the first booking sites like Expedia and we began to get around 2000 bookings a month. I predicted then that the sales and marketing person in the hotel world would become like a broker with two or three screens, updating inventory and working on social media. And that’s exactly what is happening now. We have an e-commerce division at Aston that started two years ago and we have 20 people that do nothing but update various websites. They also work on our own booking engine and sites too.

Is that all about updating information and what’s available in the hotels?

We have to check the hotel’s inventories, check the demand, check the competition then start loading the rates on all these booking sites – there are thousands of them out there – and your own website of course.

Rate parity is important and it’s not easy since some people and sites are sneaky and can buy inventory from the wholesalers at a very small mark up and can crash your entire rate strategy. Yes, the whole marketing game has changed a lot. I started playing around with it 12 years ago and now it’s become my bread and butter. I also believe that branding itself has become very important.

How do you brand yourself now?

Having a clear definition of what each brand stands for and having that communicated clearly to the market. Being relevant to the customer, advertising, promotions, PR work like this now talking to you, it’s all very important.

Is the marketing all going online?

Online, as well as print media; we continue to try everything and everywhere. Aston in Indonesia is the largest advertising account in the hospitality industry. I advertise more than all of my competitors put together and it’s not dwindling. But we are now allocating more

“In Bali we do around 40-50% of our trading volume on the internet. That compares to 10% two years ago. With the villas we achieve 70% bookings from the internet.” and more funds into internet advertising; Google pop up adverts, etc.

And that works well for you?

Phenomenally well. We can really direct it, get statistics, each time we run an advert you can see the hits go up and bookings go up. And the best thing is that most of our competitors haven’t even figured it out yet.

Ok, so I won’t mention it here then.

I tell you, when it comes to technology, as soon as you stop trying something new, you get left behind. But it’s hit and miss though and not everything works. We’ve tried things that haven’t worked, but you can’t afford to stop trying. But it doesn’t matter, if there’s something new coming out on the web we jump on it straight away.

How about social media, does that work for you?

Not really. We were an early adaptor and we tried a pilot. We focused with the Aston Bali Beach and Spa and we had thousands and thousands of fans but I didn’t see a translation into bookings. We saw a lot of comments, photos etc, but no translation into sales.

Facebook doesn’t make direct sales for us, but it is good for promotion on a local level though. It works well to promote a party or gathering for example.

Do you think it will get to the point when everything is done via the internet and from a handheld device?

I think so. It might take longer than people say but there will be a time in the future where all checking, booking, paying etc is done online. I believe tour operators, travel agents, hotel consolidators are already redefining themselves and changing the industry a lot. They are investing a lot online.

Niche markets like luxury and adventure however do seem to be demanding more of a personal touch. But the middle market is definitely going online. For example, the Australian market to Bali is now a lot stronger than ever before but our volume sales from the major tour operators like Garuda Holidays, Flight Center, Bali Discovery

Tours, etc is actually equal or less than before and we are getting more and more business online through direct bookings from the booking sites or direct to our website.

How is the future for you and Aston looking?

Aston’s future looks extremely bright; it has been fantastic over the last three years. We now have 43 hotels under construction, and leads for growth coming in every day; phone calls, letters from developers, architects, requests for plans. We definitely want to consolidate our leading position in Indonesia and then start expanding outside in the region. Our first hotel in Malaysia is under development and there’s a few deals being negotiated as we speak. We have already formed a joint-venture company in the Philippines and we already opened our first hotel there a year ago. There are another eight being developed now. So the future will see us spreading out of Indonesia. I think the Fave brand will keep us busy in the immediate future too. We launched the brand a little over a year ago and basically we have been signing management contracts almost every second week for new hotels. We have 22 under development right now and the pipeline below those is around three times as big with the projects now being discussed.

I see a huge trend in Southeast Asia for branded budget hotels like Fave.

You have been living in Jakarta a few years now. Do you have any tips on living in the big smoke?

I love Jakarta. I lived in Bali before, which I enjoyed, but it became a bit small in the end. I guess I like the buzz of the big city and having the options it offers. Everybody talks about the traffic jams but for me they are a blessing; I enjoy them. I live quite far from my office so I got myself a nice car and have a driver. I have a TV screen, an iPad, drinks on ice all set up in the back seat and I sit in the car, I put on my headset, listen to music and do my emails. I really enjoy it, it’s my time and really the only time I get to myself in the whole day. It may sound funny, but the traffic jam is pure bliss for me. FRV

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ISLANDGETAWAY

When one thinks of holiday luxury, names like Aman, Four Seasons and Six Senses tend to roll off the tongues of the cultured and well heeled, but for unashamed, freespending luxury the only way to really hit

fabulous

ISLES Text by Thomas Jones

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the tropics is to find yourself a private island somewhere far, far away and really embrace exclusivity in all its isolation.

FRV Travel brings you five of the best private island getaways in the region to really get away from it all.

1) Fregate Island - Seychelles

Ahhhh, the Seychelles…the place where Paradise takes its holidays, and Fregate Island has the charm of the island group all to itself in one rocky outcrop. All the clichés come alive here on Fregate Island, named for the tropical wanderer, the frigate bird: thatch, talc white sands, forest cover and fawning staff, all conspiring to make you feel like a king, or better still, a Branson. Seventeen villas, seven beaches, butlers, wine cellar, two restaurants serving African and Creole food, and in addition to each villa’s own pool and jacuzzi, there are two communal infinity pools so you can meet, greet and mingle with the like-minded. It’s top dollar with a dress code to fit: castaway chic, for the rich can dress how they like. www.fregate.com

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2) Bedarra Island - Australia

Queensland is a blessed place that has it all; sunshine, thick rainforest, barren deserts, endless stretches of beach and of course the fantastic Great Barrier Reef. It is just off the coast of Cairns in the north of the state that Bedarra Island lies, Australia’s most exclusive resort ringed by all the tropical requisites. Romantic as the day is long there are only 16 villas on the island, with rainforest and ocean views, meaning that guest numbers are kept to a minimum and privacy and seclusion reigns. There is a wonderful ‘no children under 12’ policy. Dining is of course top notch and being so close to the reef the fishing and diving opportunities are out of this world. www.bedarra.com.au

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3) Isle Des Indes - Indonesia

Forget sharing, Isle Des Indes is a pure private island rental that arose from the desire to create an unparalleled island experience in Asia. It promises an exquisite journey from beginning to end and it all starts by boarding a vintage sailing yacht in Jakarta and setting sail on the Java Sea. The island’s delicate ecosystem has been carefully restored to bring the reefs and forest cover back to its lush former glory so guests can do Robinson Crusoe as once it may have been – 21st century style of course. Accommodations is either by ornately carved antique joglo or guesthouses, all overlooking a turquoise shore, and attended by an exceptional and discreet staff, meaning all you have to do is turn up and start some professional relaxation. info@villadesindes.com

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4) Nikoi Island - Indonesia

Just a stone’s throw from Singapore is Nikoi, a pristine 15-hectare island oasis of slow living, sand floors and barefoot luxury in a sublime tropical setting. It’s just one or two hours by boat from civilization to a place where time stands still. Its 15 villas are created in an Indonesian-meetscontemporary style with driftwood and thatch for authenticity and all are open and airy with masses of natural ventilation. All the villas have been built right on the beach on one small part of the island in order to preserve its natural state so the rain forest and birdlife can thrive. Ringed in coral reefs, the atoll is studded with magnificent white granite boulders that seemingly defy gravity above the crystal clear waters. www.nikoi.com

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5) Wakaya Island - Fiji

The first thing to do when you get to Wakaya is steep the mind, body and soul in this tropical wonderland and simply disappear. A tiny dot of an island in the midst of the South Pacific, Wakaya Island lies in the heart of Fiji’s 333 islands. Spread over 2,200 acres of coral atoll are nine spacious Fijian bures, each one a luxurious hideaway designed to indulge you in the beauty of the island while providing every conceivable comfort. Arrival is by seaplane and all manner of leisure pursuits await; scuba, tennis, croquet, deep sea-fishing and even a nine-hole golf course will help you fill your days if the beaches, spa treatments, long indulgent lunches and romance ever get too much to handle. www.wakaya.com FRV

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LORDHOWEGETAWAY

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The Silence Lord Howe Text by Nick Walton

It’s

funny how silence can be deafening to a city dweller. We become all too accustomed to the bedlam of big cities. But here in Lord Howe Island - an island whose name few are familiar with, and whose shores even few have touched - silence prevails. Even the name conjures up majestic images of towering cliffs, turquoise coral-infused waters and a delicate paradise removed from convention, time and of course, noise.

Lord Howe’s windswept airport, like many of the island’s gathering places, has the feeling of a communal living room; everyone clearly knows everyone else and all eyes are on the newest batch of visitors to their pint-

sized utopia. A massive, mustached man wrapped in an official looking polo shirt with CUSTOMS stenciled across the back, casually watches us as tourists file past – he is also the island’s lone policeman.

Lord Howe is truly special. The island was first discovered in February, 1788 by the crew of the rather-obviously named HMS Supply, then commanded by Lieutenant Henry Lodgbird Ball, RN, whose name was later used for the island’s tallest point and also Ball’s Pyramid, a staggering tooth of rock which leaps out of the water off the coast of Lord Howe. The island itself was named after Richard Howe, 1st Earl Howe, First Lord of the Admiralty. The Navy have a history on FRV Travel l 69

Tourism came slow to the island – To help keep it that way, only 400 tourists are allowed on the island at any one time.

Lord Howe, best remembered by the 2002 near sinking of the Royal Navy Destroyer HMS Nottingham after it struck the Wolf Reef.

Located 700km north-east of Sydney, the Lord Howe Group consists of several outcrops of land, a lingering volcanic legacy dating back seven million years. It remains an ecological wonderland boasting 241 species of plants, 105 of which are endemic. There are also 168 species of bird including the rare flightless woodhen and massive gliderlike providence petrels which dance on cliff thermals or gossip on the surf drenched rocks that descend into the sea, waiting for dinner to be caught in one of the rock pools.

Tourism came slow to the island – when Ball arrived few Polynesians he mentioned the island to were familiar with it, and with ship or flying boat access the only way to reach the island until the airstrip was cleared in 1974, the tiny population was left to the isolation

of the sea. To help keep it that way, only 400 tourists are allowed on the island at any one time.

It’s only minutes after arriving until I find myself cruising through park-like surrounds to my resort, the tiny, beautifully unassuming Arajila. The contrasts of life on Lord Howe are immediately apparent; I see more cyclists in 10 minutes then I ever see in Hong Kong, sign posts announce a speed restriction of 25km/h, and the numerous golf buggies make me wonder if I had arrived on a massive, if not rugged, country club. Then there is the rather unnerving fact that my room, a modern New York loft affair encircled by thick tropical bush, has no door key, and the few that exist remain permanently in car ignitions.

Peddle power is the name of the game and I am soon cruising the tiny coastal road down to a beautiful local beach with stunning turquoise waters lapping at powdery yellow

sand, and which seems somewhat cheated by its innocuous name; Ned’s Beach. Wherever he is, Ned must be very proud. Black and silver bullet-shaped fish wrestle in the shallows having been tamed by generations of crusty bread tit-bits handed out by eager tourists and local fish lovers. The fish in the lagoon are not only spoilt, they are protected, like so many other wonders on this World Heritage Listed island paradise.

It’s easy to lap up an island lifestyle that keeps your right hand light on the handle bars least you miss a friendly wave from passer-bys, where the sea is never far away and where places have magical names like the Valley of Shadows and Kim’s Lookout. Sunsets can’t be missed and are best viewed from the beaches lining the lagoon, where fingers of charcoalcoloured volcanic rock reach out towards the rising tide and where the sand competes for space with piles of flattened stones begging to be skimmed across the gentle waters. Sunset has the sky ablaze with massive peach plume and as the day ends, you can look out to see and hear the crashing of massive waves against the reef, and look across a horizon absent of tower blocks, ferries, cell phone towers or aircraft contrails.

Much of the tourist trade is centred on the lagoon and its coral reefs, the most southern reefs in the world. Donning wetsuits, sun cream and smiles, tourists snuggle into a tiny glass bottom boat, which chugs quietly out 100m across the opal waters to the reef, where techno-coloured coral plumes, some swaying gently in the current, others resolute against the swell, are hiding places for delicate dancing tropical fish, which dart through the water weightlessly. Some of the bigger fish, now familiar with the boat and its potential meal, nudge up again the bobbing hull and I wonder who really is watching who. Diving into the freezing, pure waters, which give the unsuspecting snorkeller an ice cream headache at first, I find myself face to face with another world. The fish are every imaginable shape, colour and pattern,

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Fish feeding at Ned’s Beach. Green turtles often visit the remote island reefs of Lord Howe, which has the southern-most coral reefs in the Pacific.

some the colour of mercury, others like a holographic collectable card; all beautiful in their novelty. The reef remains healthy, unlike other reefs in the region, thanks to limited contact with humanity and is completely awe-inspiring.

From the weightlessness of the lagoon, to the battle with gravity that is hill climbing!

A “short walk” to the top of Kim’s Lookout turns out to be 1000 stairs up a steep bushclad hill but the amazing views from the top are well worth the excursion.

Massive cliffs plummet to crashing surf and fat, white gulls play in the thermals, almost mockingly – no stairs for them. In the distance, jagged Ball’s Pyramid rises straight out of the cold thermals of the Tasman Sea. On the way down we pass the site where,

during a night in 1948 a Catalina flying boat operated by the Royal Australian Air Force, clipped trees while performing an emergency landing in the lagoon, and crashed onto Old Settlement Beach with the loss of seven lives. There is a thought provoking memorial to the young airman – though most of Lord Howe is thought provoking, its beauty, its isolation, its purity and its defiance.

With burning thighs but the rare feeling that I have actually earned the gourmet dinners on offer at Arajila, I end my day with sunset cocktails. With no pollution, setting sun turns the sky to amber, then rose and finally and inky darkness as another day in this beautiful, lonely paradise comes to an end. FRV

Travel Tips Getting There: Qantas operates direct turbo-prop flights from Sydney to Lord Howe with a flying time of two hours.

Season frequency applies.

Where to Stay: Arajilla is a member of Select Hotels & Resorts. There are 10 suites and two two-bedroom apartments. Rates include gourmet meals, pre-dinner drinks, airport transfers, beach and bush equipment and mountain bike use. www.arajilla.com.au

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NEWZEALAND42

Contemporary design, modern amenities and views to die for? Nick Walton checks in to Queenstown’s best kept secret, Forty Two: a luxurious citadel of peace and quiet that will distill your New Zealand experience to pure indulgence.

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It’s

not every day you find a home away from home when travelling for business or pleasure. It is even less frequent when you daydream of your own home looking like your hotel room. Both of these will come true as soon as you walk through the massive timber doors into Forty-Two, a three-level, threebedroom, luxury residence perched above the busy Queenstown lakefront.

with lap pool and barbeque for entertaining. The kitchen would have a celebrity chef smiling and there is room to gather and room to disappear, a must when travelling with family groups. On the bottom floor is a secure double garage for the racy little red thing you got from the hire agency, a laundry and two large rooms, decked out in ski cabin-like beech-wood wall paneling especially milled for Forty-Two, each with ensuites.

Forty-Two has absolutely everything you need; from the entertainment centre with its plasma television, DVD, CD, cable TV and independent remotes in all rooms, right through to the patio

The top level features a sprawling master bedroom, with a gas fireplace, a walk-in dressing room and the best views of the lake and the Remarkables mountain range. The bathroom is one of those

Above: The master bedroom comes with stunning lake views.

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water closets that draw gasps from jealous house guests; black marble from floor to ceiling, it features a stand-alone bathtub, double vanities and doublehead rain showers. There is also a sophisticated office space with internet access, fax, printer and all the technology you need to stay in touch with the office.

Left: The villa comes with extensive living spaces which lend themselves to all of Queenstown’s seasons.

However, the centre of FortyTwo is the hub. With a balcony on one side, accompanied by floor to ceiling viewing windows, and a massive fireplace made from handpicked river stones, the lounge is a place begging you to have a cocktail party or to curl up with a classic movie, while the dining table has room for every man and his dog and a kitchen behind can cater to the masses or for a romantic couple.

Above: Pass those quiet afternoons with the best view in town from the stand-alone bathtub in the black-marble master bathroom.

The kitchen would have a celebrity chef smiling and there is room to gather and room to disappear.

As one of Touch of Spice’s luxury properties, Forty-Two is so much more than simply a luxurious living space. They can cater to your every whim, including transfers from Queenstown airport, catering and daily housekeeping, transferring your holiday home into a hub for your luxurious Queenstown experience. Enjoy! FRV

www.fortytwo.co.nz

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SEYCHELLESGETAWAY

Seych It’s

a little after eight on a bright, clear Saturday morning in Victoria, the colourful capital of The Seychelles.

The sun is already relentless as it bears down on this tiny archipelago, located in the middle of the Indian Ocean. It brings out vivid hues in the brightly-painted central markets, and makes the skin of stall holders shine as the humidity level climbs.

But it’s the sun, the stunning white talcum powder beaches, the legacy of pirates and plunder, and a unique blend of cultures that has earned The Seychelles the reputation as one of the world’s most sought after destinations.

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Text by Nick Walton

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Facing page: North Island, one of the Seychelles’ most romantic resorts. A perch above the pool at North Island and Victoria’s bustling Sir Selwyn Selwyn Clarke Markets.

T

he Sir Selwyn Selwyn Clarke Markets, in the heart of the tiny Victoria, are a hive of activity despite the early hour; fishermen and middle men yell out prices for fat, glistening tuna and nemoesque reef fish in Seselwa Creole, a local language that resembles mumbled French. In the vegetable aisles, plump elderly women, dressed in flowing sun dresses and straw hats, gossip behind tables packed with vibrantly yellow lady finger bananas (one of 30 varieties in the Seychelles), cracked coconuts and brick-sized mangos.

Exploring the centre of the markets, where the sun’s rays sail in through a wide atrium, I come across Michel Earnesto, whose crooked smile is accentuated by plenty of missing teeth. He is old, perhaps 70, and squints at me through the early morning sunshine as I examine one of his jars of homemade chilli sauce.

“This will put hair on da chest and fire in da belly,” he says with a grin. I don’t doubt it; the jar, which once held blackberry jam, is packed with a bright red sauce of menacing looking red and green chillies.

However, I throw caution to the wind, and fish out a few rupees as Earnesto wraps the jar carefully in newspaper.

in the centre of Victoria’s first traffic light-controlled intersection (there are now two sets), and here in the markets, stall holders are every shade between black and white, with blonde hair as common as black, blue eyes as common as brown.

Tourism is one of the few industries thriving in the Seychelles. With only enough agriculture to sustain its own population of 85,000, it’s the many lavish resorts, including the St Anne Resort, which overlooks Victoria from its private island in the harbour, and Ephelia, which opened in February, that inject precious hard currency into the economy.

I had spent my first two nights in the Seychelles at Ephelia. Here, the landscaping was still growing in, but the four beautiful beaches were already packed with sun-burnt tourists from all points of the globe.

Families clustered around the resort’s numerous swimming pools or waded out into the shallows off South Beach, looking for crabs, while couples snorkelled and kayaked.

Tourism

is one of the few industries thriving in the Seychelles, and the one that injects large amounts of precious hard currency into the island’s economy.

An archipelago nation of 115 islands, many of which are little more than granite teeth lunging from the sea, the Seychelles is a curious place. It’s had both French and British occupation, hopeful plantation owners trying, and failing, freed slaves given a new – if not isolated - home in paradise, and pirates living on its islands and anchored in its deserted coves (even today treasure hunters scour the northern beaches of the main island of Mahe for the treasure of feared pirate Olivier Le Vasseur, said to be valued at US$500 million).

Consequently, the people of the Seychelles are the ultimate cultural and ethnic blend; there are strong hints of French lineage - especially within the language - as well as Africa’s colourful traditions and Britain’s zeal for administration (and bureaucracy). Street names are in French and fashion is mostly Caribbeanstlyed island couture, but there is a miniature Big Ben 78 l FRV Travel

Located on the west coast of Mahe, Ephelia is sprawling, modern and luxurious, but also a little isolated; while the development meets the strictest ecological provisions (a large and fragile mangrove forest runs through its centre), and guests have everything from palatial pool villas to a state-of-the-art spa village on hand, there is little interaction with the local culture and its people.

After leaving the resort, and crossing the mountainous spine of Mahe, we passed a handful of soldiers who had just finished a shift protecting the nation’s president at his mountainside home. Until the Seychelles fell under one party rule in a 1977 coup, the thimble-sized nation didn’t even have an army, and now that democracy has returned, the 450-strong force spend most of their time chasing illegal fishers and the odd modern day pirate back to Somali.

Down at the tiny but equally busy port, the country’s fishing fleet jostles for space with tall-ship tourist boats and barges and cruisers transporting supplies out to

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After

an exhilarating 40 minutes of exploring the coral plumes and their inhabitants, and escorted by a shoal of inquisitive clown fish, we drift to the surface and the Seychellois sunshine.

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Left: Islands in the sea and a spa villa at Emphelia.

Right: As close as it gets to a reception at North Island.

the island resorts. Almost everything, from food to building supplies and even labour, has to be imported.

The tanned general manager of North Island, one of the private islands that ring Mahe, meets me at the docks, dressed in white cotton like a nonchalant millionaire and soon we’re passing massive deep sea tuna boats and the million dollar homes of Mahe’s northwest coast, before cutting across the sea towards the tiny dog-boneshaped island of North. Flying fish and black-naped terns glide alongside, and in the distance Silhouette, the third largest island in the archipelago, towers out of the ocean, its slopes brutally steep, its peaks reaching into a halo of low-lying cloud.North is the postcard perfect vision of the Seychelles, a tiny, private paradise where everything’s possible and nothing seems real.

Looking around, you wouldn’t know it, but North Island is in the process of being rescued. Boasting a belt of flat arable land through its centre, and a natural aquifer giving it a distinct advantage over many other islands, North was once the fruit bowl of the nation.

But with the decline of the coconut industry, for which the island was heavily planted, this tiny piece of paradise was all but abandoned; many non-endemic, and potentially destructive, species thrived, including diary cows, pigs, barn owls and Australian casuarina trees.

The island is now in year nine of a 40 year conservation effort, conducted by Wilderness Safaris, which hopes to return North to its natural state. Conservationists have already removed more than two million rats, while making room for the island’s rightful inhabitants.

Now mighty takamaka and coco de mer trees are being reintroduced, green turtles lay eggs on the western coast, and the island is once again home to more than

50 giant tortoises, including Disco Harry, who loves to lie in the middle of the resort’s paths and on whose shell reflective lines were painted to protect him from nighttime accidents.

The water is clear and warm the next morning when I take the plunge from North Wind, one of the resort’s day tripping vessels, into the azure water, to explore the reefs of Coral Cove, a popular dive site on the island’s western coast. After an exhilarating 40 minutes of exploring the coral plumes and their inhabitants, and escorted by a shoal of inquisitive clown fish, we drift to the surface and the Seychellois sunshine.

It was a great afternoon of diving and snorkelling but there have been few bites on the fishing line. The team at North go to great pains not to fish near reefs, for fear of catching precious reef species, but as we cross the channel back to North, my line kicks suddenly, the reel whizzing into action. Our boat hand, Steven, grabs the rod and passes it to me and I fight for what seems like an entire spin class to land a 22kg sail fish. The battle won, we slide the beautiful fish back into the sea relatively unharmed, as is the North Island tradition, and are rewarded when the reel springs back into life, this time with a large barracuda on the hook.

As the sun sets over the Indian Ocean, I sip a local Takamaka rum Hemmingway at North’s West Beach Bar, while two chefs fuss over a fiery barbeque, my barracuda, now seasoned with Creole herbs and spices, already grilling. With the last of the day’s light I reach into my day bag for the bundle that promises to put “hair on da chest and fire in da belly”. FRV

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