FRV Travel 8.1

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IDR 48.000 - SGD $10.50 - HKD $55.00 - MYR RM26.00 - AUD $10.00 - TWD $230 - THB 190

fine restaurants and villas | bali & southeast asian style

edition 8.1, june - july ‘11 Rp. 48.000

Fly First Class!

Bali Jeju

Fashion and stylekorea at metis where goes to play Luxury villas

&

Jakarta

PICOLo, IKUZE, EPILOGUE

Thailand

ST. REGIS & BO.LAN

Casa del Mar

Langkawi's number one resort

n a g n o b Lem ! s e h c a e b Rp. 48.000

Dream Island

DALAT

singapore japan china

Ternate

hot on the heels of history in the spice islands FRV Travel l 1

design food architecture fashion ar t wine restaurants

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June

- J u ly 2 0 1 1

CONTENTS FEATURES 72 St. Regis

Trauts travels to Bangkok to sample the offerings of the new St. Regis just moments after opening.

76 Bo.lan For Bangkok

Thai food with a difference at a restaurant that values traditions both old and new above all else.

82 A Saintly Experience

La Veduta at the St. Regis Osaka gives guests a taste of something authentically Italia.

102 Jeju

Nick Walton travels to the very south of South Korea and finds the holiday spirits alive and well.

124 Right By The Sea

Casa Del Mar is Langkawi’s premier beach front resort and Trauts draws the short straw and visits.

On The Cover

Dream Beach, Nusa Lembongan.

Photo by Rachel Love.

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26 Home Sweet Home

Katie checks off her wish list at Villa Surya Damai.

30 An Artsy Weekend In Ubud

Erza gets his art fix on at Villa Royal Kamuela.

34 Pandawas Villas

Rachel Love gets lost in the shadows of Ubud.

38 Excuse me...

Rachel falls asleep during a pampering at the spa at Breezes in Seminyak but wakes up to share the tale.

46 The New Little Tokyo In Jakarta

All the Japanese you could ever want under one roof.

50 This Is Sandra Djohan. Bon Appetit

Ezra talks to the woman behind Epilogue in Jakarta

58 Spicing Things Up

Thomas Jones heads to the Spice Islands in search of history.

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CONTENTS

52 Getting Cozy In Piccolo

Erza finds the best lucnch venue in Jakarta.

66 Reconnecting In Solo

Ve travels back to Solo and finds an unexpected ecological awareness at Rumah Turi.

80 Never Turn Right

First Class air travel ain’t what it used to be, but it’s pretty damn close. We show you what’s new.

86 Sleeping With The Shogun

Seikoro ryokan in Kyoto is where Thomas Jones steps back in time and to the Japan of old.

88 The Jewel Of Marina Bayerfront

The Fullerton Bay Hotel is the latest five-star hostelry to transform the Singapore waterfront.

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Rachel gets dreamy about beaches on Dream Beach, Nusa Lembongan.

92 Colonial Living: Singapore Style

130

Rachel Love visits the Pasifika Gallery in Nusa Dua, Bali.

Thomas Jones visits Hotel Fort Canning for a lesson in colonial era luxury, 21st century style.

96 To See And Be Seen

FRV Travel talks to Phil Poon, the owner of Singapore FILTER, to see what puts the VIP in his VIPs.

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Sofitel Pnomh Penh Didier Lamout reads the palm of the capital’s tourism.

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Events 12 Bits & Pieces 14 Overnight 70 Beverages 112 Cheese 115 Recipes 116 Overnight 128 FRV Listings 138 Last Word 154

108 Highland Fling

Katie Truman heads to the hills outside Saigon and finds a very cool place in Dalat.

122 Lurisia Fonte S. Barbara

Lurisia water comes to Indonesia and promises to make us a healthier people.

136 Dreaming Your Life Away

Day Dream Island in North Queensland is a fantasy land for families. Nick Walton reports.

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PT K ubu Dua Me dia J l. Petitenget 12A, Kerobokan, Bali, Indonesia Te l. +62 361 746 3751/52. Fa x. +62 361 847 5458 email: info@frvtravel.com www.frvtra ve l.c om Dire c tor Guna wa n I nd rob a skoro Graphics Coordinator Sya ffri Soe wa rd i (artwork@frvtra ve l.c om) Gra phic s Te guh Ana nta Photogra phy Moc h. Sulthon, R a ma d ha n, Ad a m Ra syid Distribution Nyoman Rupma Ii n I nd ra p utra , I c ul, Ma d e i nfo@frvtra ve l.c om F ina nc e Sri W ita ri, B a gus Oka Ma rk e ting Gina , Pha y (sales@frvtravel.com) Administra tion Gina , La lu Contributors Ve Ha nd ojo, Da vid Tra uts, Thoma s Jone s, Erza ST, Nic hola s Wa lton, Katie Truman, Rachel Love, Herman Von Ber nhardi Aguayo, Shari, Ke nny Sa nta na .

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Fine R e sta ura nts a nd Villa s Tra ve l ma ga z ine is a n inde pe nde nt, b imonthly public a tion. Ne xt e dition de a dline July 15, 2011

FR V Tr a v e l m a g a z i n e i s p r i n t e d u n d e r l i c e n s e d t r a d e m a r k . No p a r t o f t h i s m a g a z i n e sh ou ld be re produ c e d with ou t th e wr itte n pe r m ission of th e pu blish e r.

Al l r i g h t s re s e r v e d . A r t i c l e s re f l e c t t h e o p i n i o n s o f t h e a u t h o r s , a n d n o t n e c e s s a r i l y those of th e pu blish e r s. F R V Tr a ve l m a ga zin e is pr in te d by P T M e ga I n da h (T: 02161 9 0 5 2 9 ) a n d d i s t r i b u t e d b y ; P T K u b u D u a M e d i a ( I n d o n e s i a ) , P e r i p l u s - J a v a B o o k s (In d o n e s i a ) , P T I n d o p ro m ( I n d o n e s i a ) , F o re i g n P re s s ( H o n g K o n g ) , P a n s i n g D i s t r i b u t i o n (M a l a y s i a ) a n d N a t i o n B o o k s I n t e r n a t i o n a l ( T h a i l a n d ) .

C on ta c t th e e -m a il a ddre sse s a bove f or f u r th e r in f or m a tion .

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E di ti on 8 . 1

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Editor’s Note FRV Travel – It takes you places Travel is becoming so much easier now around the Southeast Asian region. With the advent of the budget carriers, the skies have opened to all and the schedules, destinations and prices just keep getting better every day.

While many of the flagship carriers in the region appear to be a little shell shocked by the competition they do still offer a certain service that one doesn’t find on the others.

You could say it’s the service that only money can buy. In this edition, Thomas Jones takes a quick and quirky look inside the First Class cabins of a number of those highend carriers. There’s something comforting and nostalgic about having those First Class options in the air available – even if such opulence will always remain a dream. Jones is also taking FRV Travel readers on a boat trip around the Indonesian Spice Islands and then onto Japan. The two Japan stories inside were researched and written before the tragic earthquake and tsunami in March. We postponed their printing in the last edition, being so close to the tragedy, but

now with the Japanese Tourism Board and local businesses asking for help in promoting Japan as a tourism destination once again, and the related areas being far from the affected northwestern area of Japan, we decided it was time to help our friends in their time of need. Our thoughts and prayers go out to the people of Japan.

Once again this edition of FRV Travel takes us all over the region to Bangkok’s new St Regis hotel and a fine-dining restaurant, Bo.lan. Then onto the very popular Casa del Mar on Langkawi island, and we drop into Hyatt hotels in China and Yogyakarta. We taste our way through new restaurants in Jakarta and take luxury getaways in Bali, Lembongan, Korea and Australia’s Whitsunday Islands.

It’s another block buster edition of FRV Travel—We hope you enjoy it.

Send comments, gripes and letters to: editor@frvtravel.com

FRV CONTRIBUTORS

David Trauts Correspondent, English.

Trauts was on the move last month visiting Malaysia’s Langkawi Island and then up to Bangkok and the new St Regis hotel. “It’s definitely a great way to see the world writing for FRV Travel,” he says. “And I will have to do more of it!”

Erza S.T. Life is going swell for this opera producer. He found new luxury havens in Singapore and Bali which are perfect for weekend getaways. He was also surprised to find that French cuisine is coming back to Jakarta with a vengeance. After the uber impressive Amuz, here comes the competitor: Epilogue.

Ve Handojo Ve Handojo has been extra busy during his final months of being a corporate slave. If he could only go to one new restaurant in Jakarta these days, he’d make a reservation in Jack Rabbit. Find out why on page 48.

Rachel Love Told by a fortune teller that her life would take a dramatic change in a move to the East, she arrived in Bali with a few hundred pounds and a vision to fulfill a lifelong dream of being a writer on a tropical island. FRV’s resident arts writer, Rachel is one of Bali’s most prolific authors, writing extensively on all things lifestyle and travel related.

Thomas Jones After dining fine in Bangkok and Osaka Thomas satisfies a long held dream to visit the Indonesian Spice Islands and sets sail on the high seas for Ternate in search of culture, clear waters, coconut crabs and a big helping of history.

Nick Walton Nick has been writing on travel for over 10 years, including most recently as the travel editor for the South China Morning Post. From his home in Hong Kong he regularly travels throughout Asia and beyond, looking for new experiences, trends and destinations, both for his travel pieces in over 60 magazines globally, as well as his weekly radio show.

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JUNE JULY 2011

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Jazz on the Sand:

A Batik Moment:

The Silver Screen:

The Classics: Singapore

NSW Winter Blues:

Thailand

Indonesia

Shanghai

The Singapore Arts Festival is

Australia

The Hua Hin Jazz Festival

The fashion style that made

As the Chinese film industry

back from June 12- 13th with

Winter Magic is the Blue

is locked in place for June

Indonesia famous, batik, gets

gains attention from

some gripping performances

Mountains’ biggest annual

10-12th with performances on

its very own showcase at the

filmmakers at home and

at the Esplanade from the

event, where musicians and

three magnificent stages; two

Solo Batik Festival in the city

abroad, the Shanghai Film

Academy of St. Martin in the

magicians, jugglers and

on the beach and one in the

of the same name in the heart

Festival gets more and more

Fields, who will be performing

gymnasts, dancers, drummers,

town, from 3.30 till midnight.

of Java on June 23. Come

important with every passing

Beethoven and Mendelssohn

divas, clowns, choirs and

Over 100,000 people are

and see the extravaganza

year and Hollywood A-list

in two separate performances

community take over one of

expected to show up and

of intricate patterning and

types are becoming regular

over the two days.

Australia’s most famous towns,

get into the groove over the

delicate handwork as scores

guests. Check yourself onto

www.singaporeartsfest.com

Katoomba, and bring it to life

three days with the great

of local designers and

the Communist Red carpet

on the 18th of June.

international and local line up.

hundreds of models show off

from June 11-19th.

www.wintermagic.com.au

www.jazzfestivalhuahin.com

their independent creations.

www.shanghaifilmfest.org

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Bikes Galore: Indonesia

Culture Time: Bali

Swim, Bike, Run: Bali

Jakarta Fair 2011:

Chasing the Dragon:

Get on your bikes and ride

Bali culture buffs can get their

The fourth annual MRA Bali

Indonesia

Taiwan

people, or at least come and

fix at the 33rd Bali Arts Festival

International Triathlon is under

Indonesian President SBY

The Duanwu Festival takes

watch, as the teams take to

from June 11th to July 9th

starter’s orders for the 26th

himself will be cutting the

place on the 5th day of the 5th

the roads for a slice of the

in Denpasar. All manner of

of June at the Four Seasons

opening ribbon at Arena PRJ

month of the lunar calendar

US$60,000 prize pool in the

dance, music, performance,

Resort Jimbaran Bay. The

Kemayoran on June 9th

in Taiwan and China, making

Tour de Singkarak racing from

handicraft exhibitions and

weekend features an Olympic

for this year’s Jakarta Fair,

it June 6th this year, and the

June 6-12th, an international

cultural and commercial

distance event for the hardy

Indonesia’s leading trade show

locals will be celebrating with

550km cycling race from

activities will be on show to

and a sprint distance event for

that features not only business

the (over) eating of dumplings,

Padang to beautiful Lake

astound and enchant.

the not so tough.

opportunities but art and

the (over) drinking of locally

Singkarak in West Sumatra.

www.baliartsfestival.com

www.balitriathlon.com

music as well. Held over 32

made wines, and the (just right)

days, get your wallets ready for

racing of dragon boats.

www.tourdesingkarak.com

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some major retail therapy.

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Turn on the Tap:

The Bar at Buena Vista:

Who’s Seeing Red? China

Making a Splash: India

Gadzooks, What be this?

New Zealand

Singapore

China will come alive on July

The Splash monsoon carnival

Australia

The southernmost city in New

From the sizzling quarter of

1st as the birthday of the

is back for the second year

Lords, ladies, peasants,

Zealand will be pulling out all

Havana, The Grandfathers of

People’s Republic is heralded

in 2011 from July 8-10th. An

knights, and a few damsels

the stops for the Invercargill

Cuban Music, are set to create

in once again with major

opportunity to experience

in distress will be stepping

Tap Dancing Competition

some old Havana magic on

celebrations throughout the

Wayanad in Kerala in its most

out at The Abbey Medieval

due to be held over two

the Grand Theater stage at

land. Expect fireworks, feasting

exuberant cloak of green. Three

Festival on the Gold Coast on

action-packed days of open

Marina Bay Sands on June

and lots and and lots of red

action-packed days of art,

July 9th and 10th, the largest

competition on the 18th and

29, and will have audiences

party lanterns in some of the

music, outdoor events and lots

authentic medieval event in

19th of June. The competition

on their feet dancing to their

most extravagant celebrations

of rain designed to embrace the

Australia. Things to look out

will include solos, duos, slows,

cocktail of Cuban music and

since the opening ceremony of

monsoon and bring out the best

for include a medieval banquet

waltzes and songs at the SIT

dance in the tradition of The

the Beijing olympics.

in everyone.

and a jousting tourney. A great

Centrestage. So, get your

Buena Vista Social Club.

www.wayanadsplash.com

weekend for ye olde family.

dancing shoes on!

www.abbeytournament.com

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Book Lovers Unite:

Rumble in the Jungle:

A Load of Bull: Bali

Star Crossed Lovers:

Go Fly a Kite: Bali

Hong Kong

Sarawak

The annual Negara Bull Races

Japan

Bali goes kite mad every year

The 8th biannual Hong Kong

The Rainforest World Music

come around the post in July

On July 7 the Japanese come

when the trade winds make

Literature Festival will run from

Festival, Sarawak Cultural

through October in northwest

together to celebrate the

an appearance and the skies

June 24 to July 11 this year

Village, travels to Borneo with

Bali, a time for farmers to

celestial festival of Tanabata,

of the island fill with kites of all

and will present a variety of

musicians from around the

bring out their nearest and

an annual event when two

sizes and shape, with some

activities including an exhibition

world, who will be gathering

dearest to show them to the

mythical starry-crossed lovers

being over seven metres long.

on prominent writers,

to celebrate a fusion of nature,

world – and we don’t mean

meet in the Milky Way for only

The good people of Sanur

symposiums, and interactive

culture and ethnic music in

family! Their prized bulls are

one night. Towns are ornately

will be there to celebrate

sessions with renowned

the Bako National Park near

washed and decorated with

decorated and private wishes

at The Bali Kite Festival at

writers, poetry recitals and

Kuching from July 8-10th.

garlands, coupled to chariots

are written on paper, attached

Padanggalak Beach from the

film shows contributed by

www.sarawaktourism.com

and then raced in a nail-biting

to bamboo and then set afloat

22nd to the 24th of July.

the Hong Kong Film Institute.

event of sweat and pure grit.

or burned, in the hope that

www.festival.org.hk

Every-other-Sunday morning

the heavens will be listening to

fun for the whole family.

their prayers.

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BITS&PIECES

bits&PIECES Hu’u Keeps On Getting Bigger The Residences at hu’u in Seminyak, Bali, now available.

Adding accommodation to their already successful restaurant and party venue, hu’u are proud to announce the launch of The Residences at hu’u, ten individual private residences - one-bedroom lofts, dual-level two-bedroom villas and a penthouse villa – each with pool, tranquil landscaped gardens and plush interiors and exteriors that ensure pure relaxation with ease. The Residences at hu’u provide an attractive investment that balances high-style indulgence and leisure-home ownership in Bali – one of the world’s top vacation destinations. “Owners at The Residences at hu’u will have a unique access to the acclaimed services and amenities of this multiconcept, sprawling, 4,300 square metre resort designed to provide a getaway, that fuses together choice luxury villa accommodation, epicurean journeys and vibrant beats, where guests from across the world come to mingle,” says General Manager Philip Mimbimi. Indisputably spacious living areas, an in-house private chef from The Restaurant at hu’u, expansive pools, exclusive access to events at The Club & Lounge at hu’u, and a private membership to the Canggu Club are part of this truly integrated paradigm.

Tel: +62 361 736 443. www.huubali.com

Welcome One and All New faces for both of Bali’s Four Seasons Resorts.

Four Seasons Resorts Bali has appointed three new personnel in key positions in both their Jimabaran and Sayan resorts. Michael Branham joins the Bali team as General Manager and is set to bring a new vision and innovation to the resorts.

Edward Linsley takes the position of Resort Manager at Jimbaran Bay and heading the spa teams at both resorts, is passionate spa professional, Helen Norman, who has been appointed as both the new Director of Spa and the Senior Director of Spas, Asia Pacific.

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More Rooms In Nusa Dua Marriott’s 900th hotel opens in Nusa Dua, Bali.

Courtyard by Marriott is the 900th Marriot hotel in the world, a big achievement in any hotel’s books. The 250-room hotel is filled with local charm, and all the requisite amenities, including a kids club, restaurant, spa, and a large swimming pool. The rooms are spacious and offer guests a chance to enjoy the fresh air and soak up the natural beauty that surrounds them. And just to add a little romance where needed, six suites with oversized accommodations and large balconies are available for honeymooners and those looking for a little rekindling of that special little flame.

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La Dolce Vita Chef brings slice of his native Italy to Surabaya.

ShangriLa Hotel, Surabaya is proud to announce the appointment of Italianborn Roberto Mancini as Executive Chef, a man with a passion for all things Italian, and who will be creating signature dishes especially for Portofino, the Italian Restaurant. Born in Rome, where ‘food is the essence of life’, he brings with him a wealth of culinary experience gained over 20 years in the kitchen, Chef Mancini began his culinary journey working in La Botte, a trattoria in Rome, before travelling the world; from the United Kingdom, India, Japan and Vietnam to, most recently, China. Stay tuned for our future promotions with Chef Mancini for an opportunity to experience his innovative creations.

Where The Boys Aren’t

Inspiration From Bali to NYC

The Landmark HK let’s the girls run wild this summer.

Donna Karan Urban Zen Collection.

For girls looking to escape the drudgery of domestic life, or simply just to get away with their mates where they can shop, dine and gossip about their less-better halves as they while away the days in the spa, the Landmark Mandarin Oriental is offering a special (minimum) two-package for ladies only, with shopping foremost on the agenda as the Landmark is home to more than 100 of the world’s leading fashion brands. When the feet can’t stand to stand in their Jimmy Choo’s any longer, girls please, simply return to the hotel and immerse yourselves in an oasis of heat and water in the Oriental Spa to prepare for an night out on the town in Hong Kong’s most exclusive nightclubs, all arranged by the concierge.

Next morning have a refreshing breakfast before heading out for a bit of sightseeing, some more shopping…or maybe just straight back to the spa for some more relaxation.

You’ve earned it darling!

Bali is definitely surrounded with a magical emanation of spiritual powers. A place under the spell of natural beauty, where spirit, mind and body become one with the flux of inspirations. With all those attributes it is no wonder that Donna Karan found the source of her artistic muse in Bali for her Urban Zen Collection. Fascinated with the rich Balinese culture, local craftsmanship and purity of the nature, Donna aimed to literally “bring Bali home”. Donna worked with local artisans in order to retain the tradition of Balinese design with fresh modern features and the resulting furniture collection is very simple but with a sophisticated and versatile touch. There is an intentional contrast between rough wooden structures and soft lines of pillows and the variety of colours like natural, aged, golden honey, brown or black lacquer. As the result the balance is the solution through industrial generosity and casual simplicity with the creation of something very Zen.

And On To The Next Round The St. Regis Bali Resort chefs win Bocuse d’Or Indonesia selection.

The St. Regis Bali Resort’s Chef de Cuisine Agung Gede, and Commis Chef Leo Adi Sukma, both from Kayuputi, together with reputed team coach, Executive Chef Oscar Perez, demonstrated their culinary prowess to clinch top position in the Bocuse d’Or Indonesia Selection Competition on April 6th in Jakarta. Since 1987, the Bocuse d’Or contest has given young chefs an opportunity to demonstrate their skills, while at the same time offering them a springboard for their careers. The Indonesian round was a challenging threehour cooking competition between top chefs vying for the chance to represent their country in the next section of the tournament. For their contribution the team created Norwegian fjord salmon with an almond crust, garden vegetables in tomato aspic, potato truffle cruller, horseradish cream with salmon roe, pickled beetroot agar, basil cream coulis and a grain mustard dill emulsion. Having been selected, the St. Regis Bali Chef team will represent Indonesia in Shanghai in 2012 for the Bocuse d’Or Asia Selection Competition. A total of 24 countries will meet at the grand final in Lyon, France for the grand final.

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BITS&PIECES

On A Quest For Greatness Aston International opens new brand in Bali.

A Re-Invented Gado Gado Open in June and with a whole new outlook.

The Quest Kuta Central Park is the first of Aston’s new brands to open on the island and is a cleverly designed hotel with a wide array of recreational facilities. Located in the midst of Kuta’s Central Park shopping and entertainment district, the new hotel is right on the pulse of all things Bali. The island will see more of Quest as further hotels are currently in an early stage of development in Tuban and near Jalan Double Six. Quest is also expanding rapidly though other parts of Indonesia with ongoing projects in Jakarta, Makassar and Surabaya.

Right On The Main Drag

Gado Gado restaurant on Seminyak Beach will re-open on June 15. The much anticipated return of the beachside restaurant to the Bali culinary scene will have many gourmands in town and the region more than excited. The major refurbishment has changed the entire look of the restaurant. According to Chef Quib Rademaker the whole concept of the design has become more restaurant-like than what it was before. “In the old Gado Gado, guests would enter and cross the floor to the bar, just like a typical club or bar venue, and there was a lot of wasted space. Now the bar has been brought into the centre and closer to the entrance, letting people walk across to the bar without disturbing other guests,” the Dutch chef told FRV Travel. “You will also get a great view to the ocean from the new bar,” and added, “We are all very excited about the re-opening and you will just have to come down to see it for yourself when we open on June 15.”

We are sure many of their long-term guests will be lining up to savour Quib’s delicacies once again and to experience the new Gado Gado.

Amadea Resort and Villas opens in Seminyak.

As Bali tourist arrivals continue to swell, Jalan Oberoi, the main road in Seminyak, is trying hard to keep pace with the ensuing demand for restaurant tables and beds in the centre of town.

Thanks the stars for Prime Plaza who opened their seventh property in June with the opening of Amadea Resort & Villas, a brand new, 86room hotel designed to bring large amounts of pleasure by offering luxurious accommodation at affordable prices. Their private rooms, suites and pool villas are complemented by two lap pools, a spa and a restaurant, and are perfect for those who want to be in the heart of the action and within walking distance of a vast array of designer boutiques, great restaurants, day spas, beach bars and pulsating nightspots. To celebrate its opening, Amadea Resort and Villas is offering special opening rates and packages to its guests, starting from US$ 70 for early bookings via the website. So, get in quick and start living high on the high street. www.amadeabali.com

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BITS&PIECES BITS&PIECES

Move Over Sunset Cocktails, The Beers Are On Me Ku De Ta’s new beer garden offers a taste of things to come.

Beer lovers in Bali have a reason to raise their glasses in celebration at the opening of the KU DE TA Beer Garden, a new venue serving a diverse array of beers, bourbons, and classic cocktails in the KDT style, with front row seats for the most magical sunsets on Earth. Food wise they are keeping it simple in a way only KDT knows how by serving gourmet burgers, fries and shakes with a Mediterranean influence. Try The Millionaire’s with foie gras, or The Fish Fillet with fragrant herb-encrusted barramundi, sauce gribiche, tarragon and fennel, all served with perfect homemade fries. To complete the picture try an old school milkshake made from KDT’s signature ice creams just to really make the experience all the more satisfying. If that all sounds too healthy then go for a ‘spiked’ shake, a KBG specialty; like the infamous Carlos made from chocolate and dark rum, or The Southern Gentlemen, made from vanilla and bourbon. Named KBG for short, we imagine this will be infinitely easier to say (or text) after a couple of hours face time up at the bar. Open June 21st in time for high season.

A Small Luxury Hotel If You Please The Siam to debut in Bangkok this June.

The Siam is Bangkok’s latest addition to the luxury accommodation market. This 2.8-acre, Chao Praya riverside retreat features the kingdom’s most spacious rooms and promises to transport guests to a bygone era with the all the advantages of contemporary comforts. Guests may choose to stay in one of 16 Siam (standard) or 12 Mae Nam (river view) suites in the main residence or play in one of 10 private pool villas with a Thai, Chinese or colonial ambience. For the ultimate unique experience, dine or stay in one of four traditional, Thai teakwood houses brought to Bangkok by Jim Thompson from the ancient capital of Ayutthaya. These Siamese homes on stilts hosted an array of cosmopolitan characters in their heyday, and each of these spacious rooms is individually designed with original antiques and artwork from turn of the century Siam.

The Siam is conceived by owner and Thai celebrity, Krissada Sukosol Clapp, together with architect and interior designer Bill Bensley. The architecture of the main residence draws inspiration from Paris’ Musée d’Orsay through its white wood and glass façade, which provides plenty of natural light and ventilation. The overall setting reflects the time of Bangkok’s greatest grandeur under King Rama V, progressing into the prolific Art Deco era. Of The Siam, Bensley says, “My studio team has designed some 150 plus hotels and resorts worldwide, and we have received many accolades, but I am most excited about The Siam, as I know it is going to turn heads of the oh-so-competitive hospitality market of tomorrow.”

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But Wait, There’s More.

Semara Resort and Spa moves in next door to W.

Further up Jalan Petitenget, an area that is receiving much attention these days with such big names as hu’u, W, Potato Head and a slew of other top notch entertainment and five-star sleeping options, is the brand spanking new Semara Resort and Spa, just 150 metres from the beach. It has the requisite luxurious suites, tasty restaurants and tropical gardens where one can take in all the goodness that this tropical paradise island has to offer. Family friendly with a particular emphasis on spa treatments and wellness activities, such as yoga and aqua aerobics, Semara should definitely be making the short list on any holiday maker’s itinerary. www.semararesorts.com

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BITS&PIECES BITS&PIECES

Not Getting Drunk In The Sun

Oh, What A Night It Was

Asia’s premier rehab centre achieves 96% completion rate.

Kupu Kupu Jimbaran Suites blasts the beach in Jimbaran.

When you go into rehab the one thing you should want over all else is success. The Cabin Chiang Mai, widely regarded as the premiere drug and alcohol rehabilitation centre in Asia, has the stats to prove their mettle with an impressive 96% completion rate of all clients in 2010. “It’s an unusually intensive programme in which they become very engaged. Even while they are with us clients begin to enjoy significant life changes, “ says programme director and head counselor, Alastair Mordey. Located on the banks of the Ping River, The Cabin Chiang Mai offers guests a chance to dry out in airy teakwood cabins amid lush landscaped tropical gardens and is staffed by fully-qualified western counsellors at a fraction of the cost of western countries. The programmes are completely secular and involve no religious component, so are suitable for all races and faiths. If it’s time then step outside your comfort zone and take the 12 steps to the hills then get on the wagon. www.thecabinchiangmai.com

The new Kupu Kupu Jimbaran Suites held a soft opening party in April, much to the delight of the local media, industry folk and Bali socialites. Live jazz flowed through the night as guests schmoozed and chatted while snacking on canapés, and quenching their thirsts on a fine selection of cocktails, wines and beers. Party-goers were escorted through the property so they could take in and explore the fine new surroundings offered by this premium villa property, which comprises five-star accommodations with a unique contemporary design, flush with the influences of Bali style. Highlights of the new venture include the L’Occitane Spa, the fine dining Topeng Restaurant and Bar and the Chocolate Café Patisserie and Bakery.

Singapore Keeps Getting Hotter Asia’s hottest clubs open at Marina Bay Sands in July.

Just months before the celebrities and jetsetters fly in for the Singapore Grand Prix, Marina Bay Sands announces the July opening of Asia’s most-anticipated nightclubs, Pangaea and Avalon, two of the hottest nightclub brands in the USA and Europe. Pangaea, the ultra-lounge bottle club that swiftly attracted A-List celebrity followers in New York, Miami and London, occupies over 1,800 square metres, and is to be found on the first level of the southern Crystal Pavilion, where patrons can access the club through an underwater tunnel connected to The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands. The ultra-lounge will be able to host up to 400 partygoers at any one time, or over a thousand a night. Avalon stretches across two levels and promises to take entertainment to a whole new level with an exciting line-up of leading international DJ’s, live concerts and high profile events. “Here in Singapore, we are building the most ambitious and stateof-the-art visual, sound and light system we’re aware of anywhere,” says the club’s co-founder and club guru Steven Adelman. “The combination of Avalon’s star power and Marina Bay Sands’ iconic structure will set the stage for the biggest party in Asia.”

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BITS&PIECES BITS&PIECES

IM AN ANGEL IX - Saturday 18 June 2011 Angels, Get Ready!

Angels, mark your calendars and get ready for Saturday 18 June at 7pm: a special night for a worthy cause, when Bali’s business community, entrepreneurs, and social butterflies will descend on KU DE TA to raise money for the I’m An Angel Foundation.

Under the direction of Asana Viebeke Lengkong, I’m An Angel has grown each year since its inception in 2003, and has now contributed over US$400,000 to some of Bali’s neediest residents. Viebeke has directed care to supplement food and school supplies to over 13,000 children, works tirelessly with “BALI CLEAN” to promote environmental awareness, as well as sponsoring children’s education. By attending this wonderful night you also contribute to supporting medical relief for undernourished children, as well providing disaster relief across the Indonesian archipelago.

Six acclaimed international chefs will contribute their time and energies to make this the biggest night of the year. KU DE TA’s resident genius, Phil Davenport welcomes Ryan Clift of the Tippling Club in Singapore, Enrico Wahl from Oberoi Hotel, Will Meyrick of Sarong, Oscar Perez from the St. Regis, and finally, Will Goldfarb, previously of Room4Dessert, New York. Expect delights from the six-course menu such as seared scallop with crispy duck, Thai basil, young coconut, and nahmjim in Will Meyrick’s Sarong style. For those who haven’t been able to make the pilgrimage to The Tippling Club, sample adventurous flavours and textures from Chef Ryan Clift in his wagyu beef cheek with smoked yogurt, beetroot, raspberry and sorrel.

Electric Empire will be gracing the stage to help set the tone for the night’s fund-raising festivities.

Flown in specially for the event, Electric Empire take the stage with their signature style—a contemporary blend of 60s and 70s funk and soul. Electric Empire is sure to entertain with some “soul searching” music, a special blend of jazz and R&B. As a special encore performance, the Bali Peace Kids are back again with their ‘Summer Lovin’ rendition.

This year’s auction features several wonderful items; from hard to find cigars, to rides in private jets and stays in beachfront villas, but the gem has to be the world’s most sought after micro car, a light-blue Smart Car for two Passion Cabriolet, which the lucky winner can drive for one year.

Raffle tickets are on sale now, and for as little as 100,000 rupiah for one, 900,000 rupiah for 10, you can help a great local non-profit organisation.

Seating for the dinner is extremely limited, and for 1.8 million rupiah, guests can enjoy the whole package of dinner, music, and auction. Non-dinner guests are encouraged to donate what they can, and enjoy the evening’s festivities. It’s always an exceptional occasion when KU DE TA’s Angels dress the part, and dip into their pockets for I’m An Angel.

Contact info@kudeta.net for reservations or other enquiries. One night makes a whole lot of difference.

Chefs Will Goldfarb, Phil Davenport, Will Meyrick, Ryan Clift and Enrico Wahl will be cooking for the kids.

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BALIVILLA

Home sweet home Unobstructed rice field views? Check.

Spacious familyfriendly residence?

Check. Serene bolthole, but not far from Seminyak? Check.

Discerning tastes, yet casual? Check.

Villa Surya Damai ticks all the boxes and promises a wonderful, perhaps too good, introduction to Bali villa living.

Text by Katie Truman Photos by Christopher Leggett Above: Surya Damai may be informal but guests can still dine in style.

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Right: The detached living pavilion for chilling-out in the height of comfort.

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It’s the little things that count, like the staff leaving offerings for the gods in the early morning at small Hindu temples dotted around the grounds.

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ate into the evening, I could hear suppressed giggles and chatter from out the back of the kitchen. Their shifts long ended, some of the villa staff were still hanging out together, obviously not ready to head home yet. It later dawned on me that this is probably because the team here feel like one big happy family and after working several years together, enjoy one another’s company, and as their workplace feels so delightfully relaxed and homely, it’s very hard to leave. I could say the same myself about Villa Surya Damai, an effortlessly charming five-bedroom rental property, which seems to get everything right and makes guests feel rather too much at home.

A family-oriented hideaway, Surya Damai’s key ingredient is that it’s essentially a muchloved private family residence. Through an unassuming entrance of narrow wooden doors, it’s like entering a home from home (as that’s what it has been for years), where engagingly friendly staff - nurtured by a surprisingly savvy and informative villa manager - welcome with smiles and informal hospitality.

You’ll certainly get your Balinese wish list here. Within 2,750sqm of tropical riverside gardens, the 2002-built property comprises several solid, alang-alang thatched pavilions, with the overall design resembling 28 l FRV Travel

a traditional Balinese compound, albeit with modern interiors. Beyond, a broad unobstructed bank of rice fields – promising to remain that way, given this is an extension of the property – merges into a picturesque semi-rural landscape. As a family home, genuine Balinese touches come with less of the excessive, and restrictive, antiques collection and more of the little things, such as staff leaving offerings for the gods in the early morning at small Hindu temples dotted around the grounds. Modern creature comforts are adequate enough without overburdening with hi-tech gadgetry, or interfering with your hard-earnt serenity.

Standards, however, are not compromised, and understated island simplicity comes with premium furnishings and classic colonialstyle elegance: note the four-poster canopied beds, Persian rugs, smoked rattan woven furniture and tennis court. Above all, Surya Damai is perfect for holidays en famille, with a continual ebb and flow of relaxing and socializing together, before finding your own private spot of seclusion. Even for a large group, the latter need is amply provided for here. Spaced well-apart on kid-friendly, spongy lawns, accommodation pavilions offer generous-sized, timbered verandas, sitting areas and open-air garden bathrooms for indulgent ‘me-time.’

Deep in still-traditional Umalas, in up-and-coming Kerobokan, the villa is a short hop from the black volcanic sands of Bali’s southwest coast beaches. It’s also only a few minutes drive from Petitenget and Seminyak, where Bali’s finest cutting-edge restaurants and stylish bars are to be found. But with all that on your doorstep it’s still hard to get going. Past the 60m river frontage, shaded by palm fronds and coconut trees, timeless farming life in outlying communities is peacefully played out – and clearly visible – from sunrise to sunset.

Left: The master bedroom: colonial elegance and tropical living combined.

Far left and above: The master ensuite, and the tempting shade of the pool dominated garden.

This is a remarkably tranquil spot, where days blissfully blur into each other. With the afternoon’s fading light stretching across the 18m lap pool, dusk is a particularly lovely time for a refreshing dip, or a sundowner with views from the plantation-style, first-floor veranda. Before you know it, the gardens become magically illuminated with fire beacons dramatically lit along the lawns. Then the chef suggests freshly caught, succulent seafood for dinner and served outside under clear, starry skies. Now, is it any wonder we all don’t want to leave? FRV

www.suryadamai.com

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UBUDKAMUELA

An Artsy Weekend in Ubud Text by Erza S.T.

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Left: The Kamuela Suite terrace is perfect for a private afternoon tea.

Below: A lush kingsize room at Villa Royal Kamuela.

Right: A traditional sculpture at the Don Antonio Blanco museum.

elements that make this luxury location perfect for every escapist’s fantasy. Each onebedroom villa incorporates modern design with strong ethnic elements and has its own large swimming pool, a sun deck with sun beds, a dining area and kitchen, jacuzzi and spacious bathrooms with a series of L’Occitane amenities to top off the luxurious design.

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ali gained the world’s attention recently when Andrew Marshall of TIME magazine wrote about his hellish holiday in Bali. Though most Indonesians will agree that this is not the kind of publicity that Bali needs, Mr. Marshall’s revelations about the island did raise some real points. However, I still believe that Bali has a great amount of potential and that the “lost paradise” is still readily accessible. During a recent visit to the arts haven of Ubud, I was fortunate to discover some of the great qualities that have brought Bali its international renown.

In the 1920’s, Ubud was first exposed to the world and developed a fine reputation as an artist’s enclave. From locals such as I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, to international avantgarde artists Walter Spies, Rudolf Bonnet, and Antonio Blanco through to contemporary artists Filippo Sciscia and Peter

As the famous artist Srihadi Sudarsono built this place, you can expect to find his artwork in each villa.

Dittmar, all have made Ubud their home.

Their artistic influence turned Ubud into a cultural and art-focussed locale that is much less commercial than the Kuta or Seminyak areas. With that in mind, I decided to find a lodging that carries on this spirit, and thus Villa Royal Kamuela came into the picture.

Villa Royal Kamuela is the brainchild of the famous Indonesian painter Srihadi Sudarsono, who wanted to build something special on his land in Ubud, where he once had his painting studio. Managed by Aston International, they opened their doors to the public in March this year, and with only 12 villas to offer, Royal Kamuela has all the

As the famous artist Srihadi Sudarsono built this place, you can expect to find his artwork in each villa and a series of lithographs of women putting on their make up in the mirror is the series that Srihadi chose to display. Not only that, he also framed some of his collection of antique Indonesian jewellry as part of the décor, which adds a sophisticated and unique character to the rooms. The words ‘romantic rendezvous’ might pop into your mind once you step into the villas; a perfect place for a honeymoon.

Happily settled into my accommodation, I decided to start my art tour of Ubud and, using the villa’s car, I was determined to find some great art museums and galleries.

The first one I came across was none other than the Don Antonio Blanco museum in Jalan Campuhan. Known for his adoration of women, you can see that his flamboyant Catalan/Filipino charisma is reflected on the museum design. Without a doubt, it is one of the best private museums in Indonesia, and has a great collection of Don Antonio’s works, FRV Travel l 31

from his early pieces right through to his later years. The compound is also where his son Mario Blanco (also a famous painter) and family live, and if you are lucky you might just meet him in person.

Every now and again, Mr. Neka still likes to check out his museum. I was fortunate enough, not only to meet him, but also to share a coffee and have a short chat with a man who is so very passionate about the arts and Bali. A very interesting and rare experience, indeed.

The words ‘romantic rendezvous’ might pop into your mind once you step into the villas at Royal Kamuela; a perfect place for a honeymoon.

Next on my list was to see Suteja Neka’s painting collection in the Neka Art Museum, also in Campuhan.

He opened this museum in 1982 and it has gone on to become one of the most important museums in Bali. It features a great collection of works from many famous Balinese artists as well as expatriate painters who have lived in Ubud over the years. Highlights range from some old, anonymous, traditional Balinese paintings to well-known Indonesian painters such as Affandi, Hendra Gunawan, I Nyoman Gunarsa, and international artists Donald Friend, Han Snel, Theo Meier, and Miguel Covarrubias. It is a great place to see how Bali has continuously inspired the art world to capture its beauty.

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To end my art journey, I chose to visit the ubercontemporary Gaya Fusion Art Space in Sayan and see current works by both local and international avant-garde artists I Wayan Sujana (known as Suklu), Peter Dittmar and Hamad Khalaf.

This is one of my must-visit places every time I go to Ubud, as it is not only a gallery but also has a charming restaurant. Make sure that you try their famous handmade gelato when you are here.

It had been a long day and by now, I was pretty much done. It was time to go back to my villa at Royal Kamuela and enjoy a massage treatment followed by a nice, quiet time enjoying their complimentary afternoon

Above left: A serene lobby to welcome you on arrival.

Above: Picture windows in the bathrooms. Photo of a Balinese ceremony.

tea at Café Wanara while listening to the water flow from the charming little stream that passes below.

Contrary to Time magazine’s Andrew Marshall’s experience, mine was actually rewarding and rejuvenating. However, he is not entirely wrong. This lost paradise really will disappear if we don’t start treating it well and keeping a balance between the old and new. Let us do the best to preserve Bali, so that the island can continue to inspire us. FRV

Villa Royal Kamuela Jl. Monkey Forest Ubud, Bali Tel: +62 361 758 699 www.ubud.kamuelavillas.com

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BALIVILLA

Pandawas Villas Text by Rachel Love

At the splendid Pandawas Villas, guests are greeted by two huge stone statues of the elephant-headed god Ganesha, while overhead, an impressive Balinese kamasan-style painting on the reception pavilion ceiling depicts the Pandawa legend. frv travel enters through a pair of majestic wooden doors to reveal what’s inside.

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ong before electricity and digital technology, Javanese and Balinese puppeteer-storytellers would project the light of a coconut-husk fire onto a white cloth, and use flat cut-out leather figures to produce shadowy silhouettes. Powerful and mysterious, this is still a common form of theatrical expression in Indonesian society today. The inspiration for Pandawas Villas was drawn from the five most-famous shadow puppet characters, the Pandawas brothers – Yudistra, Bima, Arjuna, Nakula and Sahadewa – heroes of the 5000-year-old Hindu epic, the ‘Mahabaharata.’

The handsome warrior, Arjuna, gives his name to the enormous, living, dining and entertaining pavilion at Pandawas Villas, which is open on three sides with sturdy pillars supporting a soaring joglo roof with a carved centrepiece. Here, separate sitting areas take in views of the swimming pool and, in another direction, a vast pond filled with koi, bulrushes and fountains. Guests are invited to sit together and dine at a long table in the spirit of the Pandawas brotherhood on a mix of Western and Asian cuisine presented buffet-style and featuring delights such as tequila-lime jumbo prawns or Balinese grilled chicken with cap cay vegetables. Alternatively, they may wish to make merry at the grand Arjuna Bar, fronted by a handmade copper façade with a backlit relief of the shadow

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puppet images of Arjuna and his brothers.

The copper theme was chosen because the master archer Arjuna is also known as “the copper containing medicine” due to his victory over innumerable diseases.

The remaining four Pandawas brothers, Yudistra, Bima, Nakula and Sahadewa, are represented poolside in the four villas, each of which – although the same in size and similar in layout – is cleverly distinguished by a thematic play of colour, sculpted basreliefs, and customised bath products, linked to the character after which each villa has been named. Sahadewa Villa, for example, introduces a yellow colour scheme, and is accessorised with a drum and a sitar because Sahadewa is a musician; his fragrances are vanilla and sandalwood. The brother Bima symbolises the power of the five Pandawas, with his large strong body and sharp thumbnails. His fragrances are spearmint, green tea and jasmine, and his battle dress is a white and grey checked sarong, so this is the inspiration for the chequerboard decoration in Bima Villa.

Renowned for his patience, the eldest brother is recognised in Yudistra Villa with a royal purple colour theme, lavender and lemongrass fragrance, and an embroidered pattern inspired by the crown of a king.

Finally, Nakula’s fragrance is citrus Bali

The four, onebedroom villas are arranged in pairs beside a spectacular swimming pool bordered by jungle.

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breeze, and his colour is orange; Villa Nakula is therefore characterised by a deep orange wall.

Each of these stunning rooms has a high joglo roof with an ornately-carved core, and each is furnished with a netted king-size bed and double lazy chair, while also integrating a dressing room and a sitting area with a 42� TV, DVD player and surround sound. The semi-open-air ensuite bathrooms are each fitted with a double vanity unit supporting twin copper washbasins, a dreamy oversized copper bathtub, and two monsoon showers. Here, a carved stone relief portrays the Pandawas brother after which the respective villa is named.

A dramatic feature at Pandawas Villas is the 25-metre hourglass-shaped swimming pool, which is flanked by timber decking complete with fragrant frangipani trees, yellow climbing alamanda, and two open-sided gazebos, one for relaxation and the other for massage and spa treatments. Additional facilities include a cosy, air-conditioned home theatre that also serves as a games room for adults or a playroom for children. Outside this room and adjacent to the koi pond is a timber deck, offering a 36 l FRV Travel

casual dining venue. The terraced front gardens comprise more ponds, waterfalls, lawns, a temple, an organic herb and spice garden, and a yoga and meditation court complete with a pond and megalithic stones. Finally, a set of steps leads up to a rustic alfresco bar, perched atop a hill. With gorgeous views of the neighbouring rice fields, this is the perfect spot for a sunset cocktail.

Inspiration for Villas was drawn from the five Pandawas brothers heroes of the Hindu epic, the Mahabaharata.

Above: Arjuna is the name given to the splendid dining and entertaining pavilion.

Top left: Villa Nakula is distinguished by a deep orange wall.

Below left: At night, the villas take on a magical ambience.

Pandawas rests on 7,000 square metres of land in a magical location, bordered by a jungle-clad river gorge, near Tegallalang, Ubud. It can be rented exclusively as a whole, or the individual one-bedroom villas can be rented independently.

In Indonesian puppetry, the figures are never seen, only their shadows. Happily, the beautiful property known as Pandawas Villas is a reality.

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www.pandawas-villas.com

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BALISPA

“Excuse me…

please can you turn over now.”

Text by Rachel Love

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For hundreds of years the Balinese have used a wide range of indigenous plants for therapeutic, medicinal and healthenhancing purposes.

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he sweet aroma of the cacao butter combined with the soothing rhythmic motions of my masseuse as she works her fingers deep into my ligaments and tendons has eased my soul, cleared my mind and relaxed my body into a state of sleep. It is a few seconds before I am able to remember my whereabouts and respond to her request.

Turning onto my front, I am reminded that I’m in the process of being nourished, nurtured, restored and revitalised with the Skin Rejuvenation Treatment, a signature ritual at the delightful Spa at The Breezes Bali Resort. This tranquil haven in Seminyak offers a broad range of calming and energising massage, body treatments and facials combined with exotic homemade elixirs composed of natural ingredients. These are presented in secluded privacy within seven enchanting spa rooms for couples and singles, with the cheery, aspiring names of Harmony, Bliss, Sense, Energy, Purity, Healing and Serenity. The layout of the spa cleverly deludes guests into believing that they are alone when there may be quite a number of other people undergoing treatments at the same time. Furthermore, the service provided by the friendly reception staff and the expertise of the therapists is of a wonderfully high standard.

My three hours of sensory delights kicked off with a refreshing footbath in a rustic bowl filled with flower petals and sweet smelling salts. This was the precursor of a fragrant body massage designed to increase blood circulation, relax the nervous system and reduce stress. The softly stretching long strokes, skin rolling, palm and pressure

techniques employed by the masseuse are purported to bring harmony to the entire body. It certainly seems to be working. As I am pummelled, manipulated, flicked, stretched and kneaded with skillful fingers, I float into a contented lingering bliss.

For hundreds of years the Balinese have used a wide range of indigenous plants for therapeutic, medicinal and healthenhancing purposes. The Spa at The Breezes is maintaining this ancient relationship with Mother Nature by lovingly blending freshly harvested flowers, fruits and spices to create scrubs, wraps and masks for skin, face and body treatments.

Meanwhile, the ingredients that have gone into the conception and realisation of this spa are the finest. The visually-enticing dÊcor is a study in timeless tradition – a romantic, ethnic chic theme designed to coax the senses into experiencing new sensations.

Neutral tones, woven bamboo, black lava stone, deeply cushioned rattan armchairs and Buddha statues meet water features, local textiles and comfy furnishings of different shape and form. The cool breezes after which the resort was named whisper through the open corridors caressing the giant, lush green leaves of the tropical plants, while the sense of smell is embraced by a seductive layering of scents.

The next two steps of my treatment use techniques and natural ingredients designed to deep cleanse, refine, balance and hydrate the skin. I close my eyes and relish the cool, fresh concoction of cucumber that is now being painted onto my skin. Cucumber is

an excellent source of silica and vitamin E, and also contains ascorbic and caffeic acids.

With its astringent properties and high water content it will nourish, soothe, cleanse, smooth and provide moisture to help the skin glow. A feeling of tautness ensues as the potion dries on my body, before being lightly rubbed in a gentle exfoliation process.

After a hot shower to open my pores, I am ready for the sweetest indulgence of them all; a warm mask of pure, local, coffee-flower honey. Organic honey has been used as a beauty product since the days of Cleopatra, and is a natural humectant, which means it has the ability to attract and hold moisture, retaining it in the skin to maintain softness, suppleness and elasticity, thus reducing wrinkles and preventing dryness.

A final cool shower, to close the pores and keep the honey doing its thing, leaves me feeling clean and serene, inside and out. I now enjoy the finishing touch of a professional pedicure and manicure, featuring stunningly detailed hand-painted flowers.

It all looks so pretty and so very, very Bali.

I now resolve for my own well being that a pampering at The Spa at The Breezes is going to become a regular feature in my life. FRV

The Spa at The Breezes Bali Resort & Spa Seminyak, Bali Tel: + 62 361 730 573 www.thebreezesbali.com FRV Travel l 39

BALIFASHION

asian

art& DESIGN The METIS gallery specializeS in unique artefacts from all over Asia, and features a grand array of superb and rare pieces handpicked

by Patrick RICHARD during his regular journeys across China, Thailand, Burma, Cambodia and other fascinating Asian countries. FRV Travel visits and adds its own touch of beauty to the mix.

Photos by Adam Rasyid Garment: Princesse Robe.

Material : Pure silk dress with Swarovski hand-embroidered detailing.

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Garment: Juliette Dress Material : Imported Italian lycra, one seam dress, with handmade Chainmaille detailing. Versailles Rouge belt, silk velvet embroidered with Swarovski and gold silk threading. Antique Sumatran, premium python clutch with brass detailing.

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Garment: Saturday Material : One shoulder draped sequined dress with silky satin lining.

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Garment: Shirring Blouse Material : Silky satin batwing blouse with placket.

Stardust skirt. Sequined straight skirt with silky satin lining. Cabochon necklaces, natural agate stones, turquoise, and Japanese toho beads.

Metis Gallery Jl. Petitenget Kerobokan, Bali Tel: +62 361 737 888 www.metisbali.com Model: Tya I Am Model Management-Bali (booking.bali@rightcharacter.com) Wardrobe: Selphie Bong www.selphiebong.com Bong’s: Jalan Raya Seminyak No. 42A Seminyak.+62 361 730 580 Jln Monkey Forest No. 999 +62 361 808 4168 Make Up: Yusnita Daromes Photos: Adam Rasyid/Dedi Styling: David Trauts/Happy Hidayat

GAL sELPHIE bONG WAS FIRST ESTABLISHED IN 2007 IN uBUD AND has RECENTLY OPENED A NEW STORE IN sEMINYAK. BONG’S HAUTE COUTURE LABEL NOW HAS FANS ALL OVER THE COUNTRY AND the WORLD.

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Garment: Paint Me No.2 Material : Gathered silky chiffon dress with silky satin lining and belt.

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JAKARTAIKUZE

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Casual and friendly, Ikuze is very Japanese with brightly painted murals with wood and bamboo decor.

Photos by Ramadhan

On

Ikuze Japanese Food Bazaar

The New Little Tokyo in Jakarta When Ve Handojo gets confused about what kind of Japanese food he wants to eat, Ikuze gives him everything under the one roof.

the days where you’re craving Japanese food but you’re just not sure whether it should be sushi, sashimi, teppanyaki, or the fusion kind, head to where I just had my lunch, Ikuze Japanese Food Bazaar. It is the first thing you see as you walk into the Epicentrum Walk building in Jakarta – a glass-walled setting with lots of dark walnut wood.

For a Japanese food outlet Ikuze is as casual as you can get. You take a card and simply stroll the ‘market’ inside. It is a small and lively place indeed with five different kitchens, where the staff swipe your card for each dish that you order. All will be calculated as you check out later. I started at Roppongi to pick a fresh bowl of wakame salad and some sashimi. Among the fusion roll items, the crazy crab sake roll and beef and cheese rolls are my favourites. Get to Ginza kitchen to go a bit western on the special offering of fettuccine with unagi eel. Thin and crispy spicy tuna pizza is also an awesome choice.

They are not joking when they say it’s thin, crispy, and spicy. The flavours are well-balanced, and it immediately makes everyone around the table happy.

Asakusa kitchen is where you pick your selections of tempura and katsu. Yes, this is where the hot action is taking place. But, regular Ikuze-goers can hardly wait to get to the Shibuya area. This is where I get my favorite teppanyaki, in either beef, seafood, or chicken and each portion comes with fresh vegetables and tasty sweet sauce. It’s a true winner! In Shibuya, you can also pick your udon or soba noodles, and the fine unagi eel robatayaki set. You will want to FRV Travel l 47

Below: Best sellers include crazy crab sake roll and chicken teriyaki.

Right: Exposed ceilings blend well with the contemporary Japanese design.

end your journey in Shinjuku to get some good drinks. If you fancy something sweet and if it’s too early for heavy drinking, go for the flavoured sake in either strawberry, lychee, mint, peach, vanilla, and caramel.

After you have your plates filled seat yourself somewhere on the mezzanine floor where the colourful and fun wall mural is a big moodbooster. Bigger groups can opt for the semiprivate area behind the bamboo trees. While waiting for your selections to come, you can play Sudoku on the creative paper mat, and by the time you’re ready to give up, the dishes will be ready. Service is quick, practical, friendly, and hassle-free.

The ‘bazaar’ concept is not a new thing, but making it exclusively Japanese is a great idea

by Ikuze. What is also good is the size and the variety of food served there. In a moderate and 48 l FRV Travel

compact portion, Ikuze offers very carefully selected dishes and the layout of the kitchens are easy to browse so that there won’t be any confusion. First timers will not get overwhelmed.

The ‘bazaar’ concept is not a new thing, but making it exclusively Japanese is a great idea by Ikuze’s.

Ikuze reminds me that good food is best served easy, simple, straightforward, and in a casual manner. By the time I walked out of Ikuze, I knew that I had found a new lifestyle. FRV

IKUZE Japanese Food Bazaar Epicentrum Walk Kuningan, Jakarta Tel: +62 21 2994 1228 www.gmb.co.id/ikuze

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JAKARTAEPILOGUE

Left: The eclectic yet homey ambience reflects Sandra’s personality.

Eye-pleasing cocktails, Foundue Bourguignon and Tarte Tatin, the perfect three-course meal.

This is Sandra Djohan.

Bon Appetit!

Text By Erza S.T. Photos by Ramadhan

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Women in Indonesia can be very proud to know that Chef Sandra actually owns this restaurant and works hard behind the scenes on a daily basis.

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n the long history of French bistros and brasseries in Jakarta, a new player called Epilogue has arrived, the brainchild of Chef Sarah Djohan. In just one week after opening, Epilogue received rave word of mouth reviews from many French ex-pats and Francophile food lovers, so, although the location is hidden in the deep jungle of South Jakarta, I decided to go there on day eight of its life to see if these special words were true.

It takes a tremendous effort to get to the restaurant on Cipete Raya Street considering the current fly-over construction on Jalan Antasari, especially if you are coming from the centre of town. However, the effort was truly rewarded. Located in a traditional Javanese joglo house, one might not think that this is a French bistro at all. Entering, however, you will find a strong eclectic blend of Indonesian flavours with European accents, yet it remains very homey. Pictures of the chef with her family in various picture frames, a colonial style marble table, a Javanese bench, a gold baroque mirror and some belle époque style art posters are the elements that make the experience of going to this bistro more like visiting a friend’s home.

With solid recommendations from my friends, I had quite high expectations and this brought me to meet Chef Sandra Djohan for the very first time. Women in Indonesia can be very proud to know that Chef Sandra actually owns this restaurant and works hard behind the scenes on a daily basis. Not only that, but she also graduated from the prestigious cooking institution Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, where famous French chefs from around the world train. This information raised my expectations of her food even higher.

The menu is simple and interesting, and ranges from traditional classic to fusion selections. Her classic escargot and foie gras were pleasantly enticing but one appetizer that caught me off-guard was the grilled bone marrow served with garlic bread.

An incredible delectation that has a rich savoury and rustic taste that is so hard to find. The modest kitchen here also creates an interesting fondue. The fondue bourguignon uses Australian grain-fed tenderloin and arrives with potato gratin, salad and three kinds of sauces, while fondue Gorgonzola is served with a French baguette.

There is also a great list of Australian steak dishes including rib eye, sirloin or the gigantic 500g US OP Rib. It is all premium quality meat, and you can choose to have it served on hot stone or grilled in the kitchen, either with bordelaise or blue cheese sauce.

Chef Sandra’s food is anything but clichéd.

I discovered some daring selections where she plays around the taste and creates some interesting fusion dishes using strong Indonesian spices with French cooking methods. Innovation like pan-seared pomfret with bok choy and miso juice accompany with Lombok’s famous sambal plecing, or the to-die-for lamb shank with Manado’s dabu – dabu sauce are just mind blowing. I bet even Julia Child would be proud of her inventions.

From start to finish, we were held spellbound by dish after wondrous dish that culminated at dessert time with a tarte tatin so beautiful that I could feel my waistline expand with every scoop. The Epilogue Addict - chocolate martini with chocolate truffle, by the way, is gorgeous. FRV

Epilogue Jl. Cipete Raya No. 18-19 Jakarta Tel: +62 21 7590 2451 FRV Travel l 51

JAKARTAPICCOLO

Getting Cozy in Piccolo bistro + bar Text By Erza S.T. Photos by Ramadhan FRV Travel visits a new bistro in Mega kuningan that offers a set lunch worth the trip.

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or some office workers, lunch can be considered the highlight of their day and a getaway from the stresses that come with it. Some higher-ranked personnel might go to a fancy restaurant that serves a power lunch menu, some might go to a more regular restaurant, and others don’t even bother to leave the office at all as they bring their own lunch from home. FRV Travel has featured many power lunch venues in Jakarta in the past so we decided to find something different this time around. This is where Piccolo bistro + bar comes into view.

Relatively new in the Mega Kuningan area, where many prestigious offices are situated, Piccolo bistro + bar opened last April in a cosy corner just inside the Bellagio Mansion entrance, and has quite a strategic location only walking distance from most of the offices in the surrounding neighborhood.

Piccolo bistro + bar is a rather eclectic and quirky restaurant. This comes from the modern classic European ambiance with touches of the Middle East and an overall dominance of wooden elements. This all comes together in a quite cozy space which has a charm that makes you want to stay for a long tête-à-tête with your colleagues.

Though Piccolo bistro + bar sounds more like an Italian restaurant, they are not purely Italian. The food here is actually more continental. Some pasta dishes on the selection like ravioli spinach are great, especially if you are vegetarian. It has just the right seasoning and taste.

However, some others like linguine salmon, and spaghetti aglio olio pepper were lacking in confidence. On our first visit there, we sampled Piccolo pan-fried John Dory fish

and pollo á la Dijon. Both of these dishes came to the table without any trace of moisture at all. We had our eye on the Asian section which was offering some usual suspects (but with a twist), like their green fried rice, but decided to pass.

When we came for the very first time one-week after the opening, it was quite obvious that the chef was still working to get the exact taste of each dish right. So we decided to give it a second incognito visit a month later.

We re-ordered the linguine salmon once again, but the chef is still struggling to get it right. Luckily our cheese croquette appetizer was quite a delight and the service seemed to be much improved.

At the moment, they are offering a lunch package, where you order pasta or some other main course and get free a flavoured ice tea and a dessert. We gave that lunch package a try and apparently they only have one dessert on offer, which was melted chocolate served with chocolate ice cream. Somehow, out of two dishes mine had already erupted when it is arrived.

We still have hope for Piccolo bar + bistro to improve, and no doubt they will over time. However, it is a very cozy place for lunch and we must admit, worth the visit.

Piccolo bistro + bar Bellagio Mansion Jl. Lingkar Mega Kuningan Jakarta Tel: +62 21 3005 0510 FRV Travel l 53

LEMBONGANGETAWAY

Dream Beach

Nusa Lembongan’s Dreamiest Destination Text and photos by Rachel Love Dream Beach... the name sounds too idyllic to be true, but it’s an apt moniker for this picture-perfect, white sand cove on the southern shores of Nusa Lembongan.

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Left: The twotiered, infinity-edge swimming pool appears to overflow into the ocean.

Above: A primitive statue surveys a blissful scene of white sand and turquoise water.

ne of a group of three islands located 20 kilometres off Bali’s southeast coast, Nusa Lembongan is a one-hour boat cruise from Benoa Harbour, or a 30-minute fast-boat ride from Sanur Beach. The atmosphere is unspoilt and relaxed and the island’s white-sand beaches are fringed by a beautiful reef, which has been declared a marine park. Activities range from watersports, fishing, kayaking and cycling to exploring the mangrove forest in a dugout canoe, or visiting an underground cave house.

The crystal clear water provides some superb

surf breaks and makes for excellent scuba diving with one of the many PADI dive operators. Alternatively, you can snorkel from offshore pontoons or drifting charter boats.

You can also observe the labour-intensive seaweed farming in the shallow, nutrient rich waters. Here, within a patchwork of underwater, bamboo-fenced plots, the local people cultivate, harvest and export seaweed for use in cosmetics, food stabilisers and medicines. Last, but not least, when you get hungry and thirsty, you’ll find there’s a great choice of restaurants ranging from barefoot FRV Travel l 55

Cafe Pandan is charming, rustic and reminds of why you came in the first place.

At Pandan Bar, the music is always playing and Dream Beach Kiss and Devil’s Tear cocktails are always flowing. beach bars, cafes and cheap ‘n cheerful bistros to fine-dining establishments. Yet, despite the numerous pleasure boats that deposit hundreds of daily visitors at the island’s well known anchorages of Mushroom Bay and Jungut Batu, Dream Beach remains one of Lembongan’s best-kept secrets, and the reason for this is very simple – most people don’t know it’s there.

With no cars on the island, getting to Dream Beach is an adventure in itself. You will either need to rent a motorcycle or hire an ojek (motorcycle taxi), which can be arranged at any of the cafes at Mushroom Bay or Jungut Batu. The route is clearly signposted and takes about 15 minutes. Make sure you pause on the hillside along the way to take in the intoxicating view across the Badung Strait, with Gunung Agung rising dramatically from the sea. Then, when you reach the cliff top, stop for a photo opportunity at Devil’s Tear. At this rocky outcrop and 30-metre-wide cove, you will see dramatic waves crashing at full power to create water plumes and high pressure spouts; just don’t be tempted to get too close to the edge.

Dream Beach is about 200 metres south of here, a gorgeous and secluded half-moon of powdery white sand complemented by scenery that channels tropical beauty with the slow and sacred atmosphere of Lembongan life; steeped in tradition, enchanting and magical.

Wayan Gama grew up on Nusa Lembongan, and Dream Beach was his playground. After studying tourism in Europe, he returned to his island-home and fulfilled his dream of opening a cafe on the cliff above the pandanus-fringed bay. The rustic, thatched56 l FRV Travel

Two of the new beach-chic lumbung huts and one of the original Dream Beach Huts.

roof Cafe Pandan is open to the sea breezes, covering two levels with views to die for.

The menu presents the best Thai curries on the island – Wayan once worked in a Thai restaurant – along with fresh seafood and Lembongan-styled Balinese and Indonesian dishes. At Pandan Bar, the music is always playing and Dream Beach Kiss and Devil’s Tear cocktails are always flowing, especially during happy hours in the late afternoons.

In fact, Wayan has conjured up a superb selection of blends, all created with imported spirits at delightfully affordable prices.

The next step was to provide some accommodation, so Wayan began by building some simple yet charming grassroofed bamboo beach huts. There are now a total of 17 rooms, including a stone-walled family house that sleeps four, and eight new beach-chic lumbung huts, all with openair bathrooms, spellbinding views, and the sounds of the ocean; there are no other buildings in sight. The picture of this very special place is completed with sandy gardens filled with pandanus trees, cactus, primitive statues, turtle doves, and the recent addition of a spectacular, two-tiered infinity-edge swimming pool.

So, if you’re still dreaming of finding that archetypical paradise beach, head over to Dream Beach on Nusa Lembongan. You will never want to leave. FRV

www.dreambeachlembongan.com

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TERNATEGETAWAY

Spicing Things Up Text by Thomas Jones Photos by Deborah Cayetano

Ternate and Tidore - the fabled Spice Islands of the Indies, two names whose very mention once enthralled the royal courts of Europe with dreams of exotic lands and unimaginable wealth. The only source of cloves and nutmeg, man’s desire for control of their trade ushered in the golden age of exploration that lead to huge profits for individuals and nations bold enough to make the journey to the ends of the Earth. Thomas Jones takes his taste for the past and sails in their wake.

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he bottle of rum my four shipmates and I had drained the night before was still dancing around in my head when I was woken by the grating, cackling laughter of two women outside my cabin door making coffee.

I checked my watch: 5.45 and way too early for this kind of carry on. I was already awake, however, so with a begrudging selamat pagi and a cup of the sickly sweet brew in hand, I made my way to the bow to catch a glimpse of what I had come all this way to see. There, rising from the sea dead-ahead in the blue, early morning light were the mist-shrouded volcanic peaks of the Spice Islands. I wasn’t disappointed.

When Sir Francis Drake and Francisco Serrão first arrived here over five centuries ago they both wrote of the scent of cloves on the breeze while still many leagues out to sea. I could smell it too - actually it was the sweet smell of clovecigarette smoke, the Indonesian kretek, wafting up from the foredeck, but I convinced myself it was destiny.

We had left Manado in Sulawesi the evening before on the MV Theodora, a 150-foot-long Indonesian ferry of the type that gets mentioned in the world’s dailies every few months when they sink with all hands. We could have flown, but this was a pilgrimage of history, and there was really no other way for us to arrive than by following in the footsteps - or the wake - of those whose past adventures had brought us here.

The mightly peak of Tidore, A magical view imortalised on the Indonesian 1000 rupiah bank note.

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Military might was obviously key to the spice trade and both Ternate and Tidore are dotted with the remnants of stone forts that are filled with ghosts and untold stories.

Located on the equator, 1,700 km northeast of Bali, these forest-covered volcanoes have held the world’s attention for thousands of years. The ancient Romans and Egyptians knew cloves, nutmeg and mace to be the holy trinity of spices, cherished for their taste, their preservative powers and their medicinal use for all manner of ailments from impotence to the plague. The islands were controlled by two rich and powerful sultanates, both fierce rivals for control of the trade and when the first Europeans arrived in the 16th century, Ternate courted the Portuguese and Tidore the Spanish. Both European powers played the islanders off against each other to gain the upper hand but it was the Dutch in the following century who eventually won the game, relegating the Iberians to history’s also-ran pile.

With a population of around 150,000 Ternate is still the main centre of North Moluku Province and a bustling hub of economic activity, plainly evident as we pulled into the busy port. The sultanates are still a major part of the governmental system on both islands and there is a very strong Islamic influence, with a huge number of mosques filling the air with almost constant calls to prayer throughout the day. The people are accommodating and friendly and disembarking from the ferry was a breeze.

Surprisingly, we were offered a fair price for a taxi straight off without having to haggle, and were soon checking into the Hotel Amara, the town’s only four-star hotel, a four-storey glass and stone structure high on the hill, where we were able to sleep like sultans and dine like kings on coconut crab and icy cold beer, (until the supply ran out after three days), with views of the islands’ volcanic peaks fore and aft.

Military might was obviously key to the spice trade and both Ternate and Tidore are dotted

with the remnants of stone forts that are filled with ghosts and untold stories. It was these, or the former inhabitants thereof, that we had come to see. After a much needed catch up on sleep we rented a car on the second day and headed off down the coast road, the only road around the island, passing picturesque coconut-palm fringed beaches on our way to Gambesi Beach in the island’s south, which anyone familiar with the Indonesian 1,000 rupiah note will recognise.

We took out our money and tried to recreate the famous photo and scored a dozen coconuts from a friendly local with a head for heights to mix with that night’s rum ration.

The road is in good condition and it winds around the island through large clove and nutmeg forests, past rugged black-sand beaches, where we stopped often to swim in the cool clear waters. We stopped to admire the view at Lake Tolire, a land-locked, crater lake that is, according to the locals, infested with crocodiles.

We looked and looked but funnily enough didn’t see any. We did attempt to climb the 1,715m peak of Mount Gamalama late one night but a fresh tropical storm washed out the paths before we could start. Local wisdom prevailed and our guides wouldn’t take us any further.

Above: The humble clove. Once worth more than gold , ounce for ounce, now worth but a few cents.

Top left: A sight for weary eyes. Ternate and Tidore rising from the sea in the early morning light.

Bottom left: A ripe nutmeg fruit with its nut wapped in a filagree of red mace.

Below left: A Muslim woman on Ternate selling chilies in the market. These days more lucrative than cloves.

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Top left: The Portuguese Fort Kelamata looking across to Tidore.

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Top right: A friendly local with a head for heights and coconut palms.

Right: The restored Portuguese Fort Tolukku above Ternate town.

Above: A 17th century cannon in the Dutch-built Fort Oranje.

Above: The showpiece Masjid Raya Mosque on the Ternate waterfront.

Below: A much sleepier Tidore looking across Soasio town to Halmahera.

Below right: Say cheese! Girls just can’t resist the allure of the camera lens.

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Facing page: The cloud-covered peak of Ternate’s 1,715metre-high Mt Gamalama.

Left: A secret clear water cove on Ternate’s north coast. Noodles, coffee and inner tubes for sale.

Located on the equator, 1,700 km northeast of Bali, the islands have held the world’s attention for thousands of years.

In the middle of Ternate town the Dutch-built Fort Oranye is still very much in use as a school and shantytown by the locals, and still has some of its many cannon in place along the walls. But it is the older forts that capture the imagination best; Fort Tolukko is an old Portuguese stronghold, immaculately restored on a hilltop vantage point; while Fort Kelamata sits on prime waterfront real estate just south of the town with views across to Tidore. But by far the most intriguing is the infamous Fort Nosra Señora del Rosario on the southeast coast, where the Ternateans besieged the hapless Portuguese for five long years after the interlopers treacherously murdered the sultan over trading rights. You can almost smell the isolation, desperation and hopelessness that the inhabitants must have felt as they sat out their siege waiting for news that never came. In 1579 the siege was lifted and the Portuguese left the island, never to return.

Dominating the southern sky with its tall volcanic cone just across the water, Tidore has become the somewhat poor relation to Ternate, but is still a very beautiful and dramatic place.

Best as a day trip, as accommodation is extremely limited, it’s only a 15-minute speedboat ride away. We were met on the wharf in Tidore with offers of taxis, but we chose to rent motor scooters instead for around $1.50 per hour, which gave us the freedom of the highway to tour the island at our own pace. Tidore is filled

with clove and nutmeg forests, sandy beaches and immaculate villages, all well-maintained and proudly painted in distinct ‘team colours’ that change as we passed from village to village, but all filled with the same friendly smiles and waves from excited children wherever we went.

Unfortunately, not many westerners visit the Spice Islands these days. When we scoured the visitor’s books in Fort Tolukko there were only a handful of latter day explorers who seem to have made the semi-arduous trek. But hardship can be its own reward and without the sea leg of our journey it just wouldn’t have been the same.

That said, the easy option of leaving by plane was a blessing. When Sir Francis Drake sailed from Ternate he had to jettison a cannon and a couple of tonnes of spices to lighten his ship enough to get over the reef. In 2011, with 3kg of excess baggage, I had to discharge my boots and jacket from my suitcase into my carry-on to get on the plane. A fitting parallel, I thought, to end a grand voyage into history and discovery. FRV

Getting there: Sriwijaya Air flies daily return flights from Makkasar and Manado to Ternate. Ferries leave from Manado bound for Ternate every Monday and Tuesday at 4pm from the Manado Ferry Port. Cabins are highly recommended.

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SOLORUMAHTURI

Rumah Turi

Reconnecting in Solo Text and photos by Ve Handojo Ve Handojo revisited his favorite city of Solo, and found a sanctuary where he could slow down and reconcile his fast-paced lifestyle with Mother Nature.

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t was a clear morning in Solo, my favorite part of Central Java where good times and great food abounds. The trip from the airport took me past Solo’s main street of Jalan Slamet Riyadi and wound its way through the city before crossing a railway track, and entering a small kampung (village) to deliver me to the door of my hotel, Rumah Turi.

Located in the middle of a village called Turisari, there are no screaming signboards and the only thing to identify the lowrise lodging are the few cars parked in front of the entrance.

“Neighbours did protest when we first built this property as a hotel,” said Mr. Paulus, the owner and architect of Rumah Turi. “But we gained their trust, and we built Rumah Turi with the clear vision that our place blends well with the neighbourhood.” Mr. Paulus used recycled woods and terracotta tiles and reused bricks and structural steel from other projects to build Rumah Turi. With these materials, it was obvious from the start that Rumah Turi was envisioned as an eco-conscious hotel.

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A busy morning in Pasar Gede, Solo.

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Top left: The main garden where water is absorbed and recycled.

Above: The nostalgic porch of Rumah Turi.

Left: The mini library, which joins the restaurant.

Entering Rumah Turi feels more like stepping into your grandmother’s well-maintained house. There is an immediate air of familiarity. The focal point of the complex is its open garden which functions as a water absorption area, and when covered, the garden can offer a stage for traditional dance performances. The endless gentle sound of drizzling water serves as soothing music. The main water source is the existing, old swallow well. The water is filtered, then pumped up to a tower, from which it will be distributed for use around the hotel. Recycled water is stored in a biofilter where microbes are activated to purify it before it is used to flush toilets and water the gardens where vegetables, fruits, remedial plants, as well as beautiful flowers are grown.

I switched off my room’s air conditioner for 24 hours to test the cooling design of the architectural elements and found that the roof garden really helped keep my bedroom temperature low. The cross ventilation regulates the air flow and I was able to sleep tight with no complaint. During the day, the temperature was very comfortable and the air inside my room was clean and pure. Funny how this simple lifestyle can feel like magic for us, urbanites.

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Left: Serabi Solo Notosuman is the must-try dessert and the Kauman batik village is full of hidden treasures.

Rumah Turi Jl. Sri Gading No. 2, Turisari Solo, Central Java Tel: +62 271 736 606 www.rumahturi.com

You Haven’t Been to Solo Until You: • • •

Rumah Turi feels like stepping into your grandmother’s house.

There is an immediate air of familiarity.

The luxury of Rumah Turi is found in its strong and consistent spirit for a wellbalanced lifestyle. Guests are drawn to connect to nature and to each other. The intimate restaurant also serves as a business centre and library. The terrace provides a nice setting for quiet reading while sipping the hot lemongrass tea.

My stay in Rumah Turi was complemented with a visit to Griya Tawang, a one-hour ride towards Tawangmangu village. The huge eco-complex on the riverside is still under development but is projected to become a centre for ecological studies and outbound activities. The gourgeous landscape will be filled with lodgings, an art and performance stage, a wedding chapel, a ranch, a farm, and an outboud training ground.

Rumah Turi graces Solo in Central Java with its simplicity in forward thinking. Regular guests of Rumah Turi should be called ‘believers’ instead. I checked out as a soul reconnected with nature. FRV

• • • • • • •

Dine in Nasi Liwet Wongso Lemu Enjoy the local dessert Srabi Solo Notosuman Visit the Mangkunegaran and Kasunanan Palace Have Timlo Soup in RM Timlo Sastro for breakfast Blend with the morning crowds in Pasar Gede traditional market Drink the refreshing Es Dawet Telasih inside Pasar Gede Go crazy in Galabo outdoor food centre Shop for batik in Kauman and Laweyan batik villages Sip a glass of hot Shi-Jack fresh milk in the street side stalls Visit the Danar Hadi Batik Museum

Ask Rumah Turi to help you arrange your schedule and point you in the right the direction. The friendly staff will be more than happy to make you feel at home in the city.

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YOGYAHYATT Right: Bogey’s Terrace by the golf course. Early morning views of Mt. Merapi.

Panorama Terrace, a great place for lunch.

Below: Morning and daytime; two views of a hotel modelled on Borobudur Temple.

Hyatt Regency Yogyakarta

A Retreat to the North of Yogyakarta

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Avoiding the typical bustle of Jalan Malioboro, Ve Handojo found a more preferred address to have the real retreat in Hyatt Regency Yogyakarta.

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scaping to Yogyakarta has always meant browsing the unruly Jalan Malioboro, having boring, subversive conversations with philanthropists in Jalan Prawirotaman, or forcing myself to enjoy the overhyped street side lesehan. I have had enough of the ‘anti-settling’ statements consciously or subconsciously endorsed by whatever we find in the city – from the ‘edgy’ paintings, ‘idealistic’ murals, to the ‘philosophical’ chit-chat with youngsters in torn denim pants and dirty t-shirts. Seriously, can’t we simply enjoy life?

Hence my decision to stay away from the heart of the city to have a three-night retreat in the seemingly luxurious Hyatt Regency Yogyakarta.

Located in the north part of the city, Hyatt Regency Yogyakarta is surrounded by lush paddy fields and is popular for conferences, workshops, and gatherings, yet manages to remain a serene getaway for the lone traveler or honeymoon couple as well. I was escorted from the main gate to my room, passing the fragrant corridor, where batik-wearing government officials were on a break between meetings, and the cheerful lobby lounge where heartfelt smiles abound.

Check-in was done in a flash inside my room, where Mount Merapi looked mighty and majestic through the oversized window. I was reminded of the short but heartbreaking trip I had made to the to the surrounding area, which was destroyed by the last eruption and thought of how we must show respect to Mother Nature.

The hotel’s building is modelled after the Borobudur Temple, and set amongst 24 hectares of landscaped gardens, with a manicured nine-hole golf course and although meeting and conference facilities are better in the city, Hyatt Regency Yogyakarta preserves a strong atmosphere of a laid-back resort with something for everyone. Lovebirds can enjoy a memorable romantic dinner at the hotel’s Candi Bentar, spa enthusiasts get a traditional massage in the bythe-pool joglo, and residents with polluted lungs may stroll the surrounding village on their bikes in the morning.

Breakfast in Kemangi Bistro is always a feast.

The shady terrace sets the right mood for each day just right. I filled my days with swimming in the free-form pool, putting on the golf course, or simply switching off my BlackBerry to finish reading a novel in the Bogey’s Teras before it got crowded in the evening. I witnessed intimate wedding dinner taking place in the South Garden, and I could sense the diners’ urge to reenact a scene in My Best Friend’s Wedding by singing, “Forever, and ever, we never will part...”

Far beyond the physical excellence, the hotel’s luxury is actually found in the effortlessly friendly service. It was one of the rare hotels that made me look back twice as my taxi was leaving for the airport. I wouldn’t just say that I will return, I would declare it as a promise. FRV

Hyatt Regency Yogyakarta Central Java Tel: +62 274 869 123 www.yogyakarta.regency.hyatt.com FRV Travel l 71

THAILANDST.REGIS

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Left: The Deluxe Room has ample space enough for the businessman on the go.

Right: The St. Regis stands tall over the neighbouring golf course and race track.

In the Centre of the City St. Regis Bangkok David Trauts heads into the centre of Bangkok to try the newest hotel in town and while he’s at it, shop away to his heart’s content.

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he action of the central business and commercial district of Bangkok has a life of its own. Me, I love it. I love the buzz of all the people rushing along the streets, the street stalls everywhere, the slick operation of the BTS Sky Train, and the great line of branded shopping opportunities that never appears to end.

Right in the middle of this melting pot of commercial humanity, standing tall over proceedings, is the new St. Regis Bangkok, which opened its doors to guests on the first of April, just a month before our visit. It’s a brand new, five-star hotel and residence, right next to Four Seasons Bangkok, and sited directly in front of the Ramadrami BTS station and the Royal Bangkok Sports Club golf course and racing track. If you talk about accessibility and location, it can’t be beat. It also can’t be beaten on style, luxury and the distinctive St. Regis service and attention to detail.

A famous St. Regis Butler is appointed to every room in the property to attend to all needs and is the first stop for guests who require any assistance while in the hotel.

The Butler is always one push of the button away on your room’s phone and he or she will come running any time day or night. Having a personal assistant like that can be a rewarding experience for the busy businessperson; shining shoes, pressing clothes or even organising a table at a nearby restaurant. He also comes in handy for the humble holiday-maker too.

St. Regis is famed the world over for their distinctive service and, after doing it now for over 100 years, they have service down to a fine art. Starting in New York City way back when, there appears to be a touch of old world, American

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charm in all of the staff. I’m not sure how they do it, but everyone knows your name and they give heartfelt greetings at every lobby or hallway encounter. Even the elegant uniforms that speak of a yesteryear style and grace have a modern cut that brings the staff into the twenty first century with ease.

In between shopping and dining bouts I managed to find my way to the Elemis Spa on the fifteenth floor, adjacent to the swimming pool and gymnasium. All that walking around Siam Paragon (the principal branded shopping mall in the area) had a wearying effect on my aching bones and I thought a massage would be the ideal recompense to a drained body. Elemis is an English brand of spa and wellness salon with branches in London, Paris, Hong Kong and now in Bangkok. The treatment room I was in was a beautiful facility. It was a large twin room complete with jacuzzis and double hanging chairs and views all the way down the main thoroughfare of Ramadadramis Road. I laid down for the 1½ hour Well Being Massage treatment and, to be honest, wasn’t enjoying it to begin with, but as I started to drift between sleep and consciousness from the wave-like massage technique, I began to feel the tension ease up through my body moving towards my head. This is what always happens to me with a good massage and when it came time to receiving the facial, which is the final part of the Well Being treatment, it seemed the tension was finally being released out through my face. Quite an interesting experience and needless to say, I was full of renewed energy after my session.

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Dining at St Regis Bangkok will be evolving quickly over the next few months as their Italian and Japanese restaurants open downstairs on the ground floor, but for now and for our visit, the only restaurant was the Viu restaurant on the lobby 12th floor.

This open-kitchen restaurant is the venue for breakfast, lunch and dinner and has fantastic views over the golf course opposite the hotel.

The openkitchen idea is taken to the next level in this restaurant.

It is less a kitchen with a window to observe what the chefs are up to and appears more like a buffet since it is so open it almost invites you to walk in amongst it. It’s an interesting past time watching the chefs go about their toil – and you would hope that chefs at Viu have an even temperament or the whole place could become involved in a kitchen fracas. They serve a delightful menu of international and Thai dishes focussing mainly on the grill.

I’m not sure how they do it, but everyone knows your name and they give heartfelt greetings at every lobby or hallway encounter.

The two, new fine-dining restaurants on the ground floor will be an interesting addition to the St. Regis Bangkok and will surely bring a lot of life to the hotel. The foot bridge connection on the second floor to the BTS station out the front, which is slated to be completed soon, will also make it an inviting destination for diners from all over town in the near future. The Italian restaurant will be open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Top: Open the curtains for a view over Bangkok’s premium shopping district. And a bath with a view in the Metropolitan Suite.

Opposite: Viu restaurant with its delightful open kitchen is the venue for breakfast, lunch and dinner until the street level restaurants open.

The rooms are finished perfectly and with all the amenities one would expect, except for the typical self-serve tea or coffee dispenser of most hotels, which wasn’t to be seen. One could imagine that the making of coffees was within the Butler’s realm, but there wasn’t any sign as such. The beautiful carpets, large mirrors, big flat screen TV and Remede amenities in the luxurious bathroom more than make up for that.

The size of the rooms isn’t overly large and there isn’t a lot of room between the stylish pieces of furniture, but the room is big enough. This is a city hotel after all and at the end of the day

one only requires a comfortable bed, a stylish and functioning bathroom and place to do your books or writing. The deluxe rooms have plenty of all of that and if more space is required there are Caroline and Metropolitan suites to choose from.

There are plenty of things to do in Bangkok.

Boat trips on the river, visit Buddhist temples, wine and dine in many fancy restaurants, but if you are in Bangkok for business or a shopping spree extravaganza and want to do it in style, St. Regis Bangkok is the address to stay. FRV

The St. Regis Bangkok 159 Rajadamri Road Bangkok, Thailand Tel: +66 2207 7777 www.starwoodhotels.com/stregis FRV Travel l 75

THAILANDBO.LAN

Bo.lan for Bangkok Text by Thomas Jones

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when you meet the owners of Bo.lan restaurant in Bangkok, Bo and Dylan, it becomes obvious where the name comes from. But, there is a double wordplay in action on the Thai word ‘boran’ meaning ‘old’ or ‘ancient’, and it is very much the at the heart of the philosophy behind the preparation, presentation and style of cooking they use. For them, tradition, both old and new, is everything.

Right: Only the freshest ingredients pass muster. Bo, Dylan and a friend on a shopping trip.

Left: The heavily atmospheric, garden set restaurant.

A

few years ago when Dylan Jones left his native Australia to take his cheffing skills to the greener pastures of London, he found himself working in a Thai restaurant, where he developed a passion for more than just the food. “I was working in a very respectable Thai restaurant for five years, where I fell in love with the cuisine, the country and one of its people,” he says referring to Bo Songvisava, his Bo.lan business partner and the love of his life. When their time in London was up they decided to move back to Thailand and give Thai fine-dining a shot.

Bo.Lan is the result.

“We opened the restaurant with the intention of doing Thai food as we believe it ought to be done, but with a slightly modern twist when it comes to presentation,” explains Dylan, and while the food itself may look a little left of centre when it comes from the kitchen, he is adamant about one thing, “It’s definitely not fusion! 100% of our ingredient sources are local and only traditional methods of cooking are used when making the dishes.” A claim more than backed up after spending an evening experiencing the kitchen’s output in their magnificent, mixed indoor/ outdoor setting.

The decor is in a class of its own - definitely Thai but without any hint of stereotype. Large rice sorting trays line the ceilings in homage to the nation’s staple fact of life, and oil paintings of Thai market scenes hang on the walls, reminding us of the mundaneness of daily life, where eating is a very normal and public thing to do. “We wanted the physical look of the restaurant to be Thai but without the typical decorations of boats and Buddhas,” explains Bo. “Where possible, we want to have it relate back to the cultural identity of Thailand, especially the food.”

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Bo.lan offers two menus; Bo.lan á la Carte, where diners can make their own choices, and the Bo.lan Balance, a special seasonal set menu, a degustation of sorts, where the entire evening’s dining pleasure is put directly into the hands of the chef giving guests the chance to taste, not one, but a wide variety of different dishes. I am a firm believer in giving myself over to the chef ’s recomendations so I chose the latter. I was not disappointed.

The Bo.lan Balance is composed of five essential dishes; Thai salad (yum), chili relish (kreung jim), a stir-fried dish (jan phat), curry (keng) and also individually served soups (nahm keng), with maybe a couple of surpise dishes thrown in for good measure, and is all prepared fresh and timed to reach the table at just the right time. There is a catch, however; if one person in the party wants the Balance Menu –and you should- then the whole table is encouraged to follow suit. It makes it easier on the kitchen and helps everyone play nicely and share the pleasure, because once these works of art start coming out, everyone is going to want to have a taste.

No matter what your chili tolerance Thai food can take you places you may not want to go, so a word of advice before you start: listen to your waitress.

These lovely, friendly women are born with chillies

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in their mouths and know what will work for you.

My waitress asked me about my spice threshold and then explained what I could expect from each dish. Their advice should not be shrugged off lightly, and I was glad I didn’t.

The amuse bouche arrived with a pre-prandial surprise; glass of yadong, a very traditional, and very strong, white rice spirit that is macerated in herbs and spice, and said to have aphrodisiac qualities. It wasn’t just amusing, it was hilarious and threatened to bring the house down with its 80 proof sense of humour. With a delicious burn like this, who needs chilli? “It is considered a low class drink these days,” says Bo, “but we are trying to change that perception,” further proving their comittment to resurecting all aspects of the traditional Thai food of the people.

The starters arrived and the waitress advised me to start on the left and move slowly across across each of the five bite-sized portions on the plate.

The first was tasty, the second was off-the-charts spicy and had my head spinning - more beer please, and quickly! - before the last three tasty samplers slowly eased my mouth back down to Earth. What followed thereafter was an avantgarde mélange of meats, fish, seafood, fruits and vegetables wrapped in a six-course whirlwind of

No matter what your chili tolerance Thai food can take you places you may not want to go, so a word of advice before you start: listen to your waitress.

spices, textures and wonderful tastes, which left me both breathless in places from chili fatigue and ecstatic in others with joy, and loving every minute. The only disappointing part of the experience was that the journey was over all too soon, taking just under an hour from start to finish. It didn’t matter, however, I was spent.

Bo and Dylan founded the restaurant with the belief that the best Thai restaurants should be found in Thailand itself, where the food is heavily attached to the land and its people. They are onto something good and in their pursuit of authenticity they are following the cooking rituals practiced in Thailand for countless years, deferring to a thousand generations of mothers and grandmothers and their kitchens. FRV

Bo.lan Sukhumvit 26 Bangkok Tel: +66 2260 2962 www.bolan.co.th

Facing page: Stylish modern interiors with a hint of Thai style as seen from the open sided dining room.

Top: Exceptional service is all you will get from the waitresses - and advice on chili intake.

Above: Classic meets modern for presentation and taste in their innovative cuisine.

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