Yarn photo
HANDWOVEN
LOOM THEORY eight & over eight scarf collection
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CONTENTS LOOM THEORY
• volume II
04 A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR by Susan E. Horton
THE COLLECTION 06 AUTUMN LEAVES 8-SHAFT Deanna Deeds 10 AUTUMN LEAVES 16-SHAFT Deanna Deeds 16 SILK WALL OF TROY 8-SHAFT Laura Fry with Trudy Sonia 20 SILK WALL OF TROY 16-SHAFT Laura Fry with Trudy Sonia 26 FRIENDSHIP SCARF 8-SHAFT Suzie Liles 30 FRIENDSHIP SCARF 14-SHAFT Suzie Liles 36 JIN SILK SCARF 8-SHAFT Bonnie Inouye with Sandra Hutton 40 JIN SILK SCARF 16-SHAFT Bonnie Inouye with Sandra Hutton 46 BLANKET SCARF 8-SHAFT Elisabeth Hill 50 BLANKET SCARF 12-SHAFT Elisabeth Hill
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A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR Weavers approach me from time to time looking for patterns they can use on their looms with more than 8 shafts. After receiving a few of these requests, I decided I wanted to acknowledge not only those weavers and those looms, but also 8-shaft weavers and their looms in a special collection of high-end scarves. Welcome to Loom Theory Volume ll, the second in a new series of digital lookbooks for weavers and a special publication of Handwoven magazine. PHOTO BY GEORGE BOE
Loom Theory: Eight & Over Eight Scarf Collection is not just a celebration of weaving and complex designs, but also of fine yarns—silk, wool, lyocell, and linen—from well-loved yarn companies. For this lookbook, I asked 5 designers to design 2 scarves: an 8-shaft version and a 9- to 16-shaft version using the same high-end luxury yarns in both scarves. You can purchase the pattern collection while browsing the lookbook—just find the “Purchase Now” button on every design-information page to be directed to our store page, where you can download the entire collection of patterns in a bundle. You will be happy to know that we are including WIF downloads with these patterns that you can open and use with almost any weaving software. The luscious yarns in this lookbook are courtesy of Jagger Spun, Vävstuga, Glimåkra USA, Treenway Silks, and Halcyon Yarn. The designers are Deanna Deeds, Laura Fry, Suzie Liles, Bonnie Inouye, and Elisabeth Hill. Two weavers, Trudy Sonia and Sandra Hutton, also helped assemble the collection. I think you are going to love this wonderful collection of luxurious scarves! Weave well,
Projects and information are for inspiration and p ersonal use only. We’ve made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the contents of this publication. However, human errors do occur. If you have questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please email handwoven@interweave.com. Handwoven does not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers, p roducts, services, or views advertised in Handwoven. Nor does Handwoven evaluate the advertisers’ claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in e valuating the advertisers, products, services, and views a dvertised in Handwoven. For advertising information, call Stephanie Griess at (877) 613-4630 or email sales@fwmedia.com.
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For editorial inquiries, call (800) 272-2193, email handwoven@interweave.com, or write to 4868 Innovation Dr., Fort Collins, CO 80525-5576.
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AUTUMN LEAVES www.jaggeryarn.com Springvale, Maine USA
DEANNA DEEDS
8-SHAFT
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AUTUMN LEAVES www.jaggeryarn.com Springvale, Maine USA
DEANNA DEEDS
16-SHAFT
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Mousam Falls — Superwash Wool 4/6, 4/14 and limited colors in 2/24 available.
Springvale, Maine USA
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Yarn photo JAGGER SPUN YARNS If you haven’t tried weaving with Jagger Spun yarns before, now is the time. Deanna used two Jagger Spun merino yarns in these scarves—2/24 Mousam Falls Super Lamb and 2/18 Superfine Merino. Mousam Falls is 100% superwash merino that’s perfect for weaving up lightweight projects without worrying about fulling. Superfine Merino, also 100% merino, is a sumptuously soft yarn that fulls beautifully during wet finishing. On their own, the yarns weave up into beautiful fabric great for anything worn next to the skin; combine the two yarns and you’ve got the perfect recipe for creating fabric with exciting differential shrinkage designs that don’t compromise on softness. Shown here: Superfine Merino (Ruby and Copper), Mousam Falls Super Lamb (Saffron) 2/24 Mousam Falls Super Lamb FIBER: 100% Superwash Merino YARDAGE: 5,960 yd per 1 lb cone RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace–20; plain weave–24; twill–30 epi COLORWAYS: 29 2/18 Superfine Merino FIBER: 100% Merino YARDAGE: 5,040 yd per 1 lb cone, 560 yd per 50 g skein RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace–14; plain weave– 18; twill–22 epi COLORWAYS: 44
AUTUMN LEAVES DEANNA DEEDS To weave thick and warm scarves with pockets of air between layers for added insulation, I decided to explore differential shrinkage using networked doubleweave. To create the diffential shrinkage, I chose two types of merino wool, one that fulls beautifully and one that doesn’t full at all. STRUCTURE Networked doubleweave.
Superfine Merino (100% merino; 5,040 yd/lb).
EQUIPMENT 8- or 16-shaft table or dobby loom, 10" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 2 or 3 shuttles; 3 bobbins.
OTHER SUPPLIES Synthrapol textile detergent.
YARNS Jagger Spun 2/24 Mousam Falls Super Lamb (100% superwash merino; 5,960 yd/ lb). Jagger Spun 2/18
PURCHASE NOW
(WIFs included with download)
FINISHED SIZES 8-shaft: 8"x 69" with 4" fringe. 16-shaft: 77" x 66" with 4" fringe.
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SILK WALL OF TROY LAURA FRY WITH TRUDY SONIA
8-SHAFT
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SILK WALL OF TROY LAURA FRY WITH TRUDY SONIA
16-SHAFT
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HALCYO NYAR N .CO M • 8 0 0. 3 41 .0282 • BATH , MAIN E Friendly and knowlegeable customer service, fast shipping, and unmatched quality. Discover for yourself why Halcyon Yarn has been “the weaver’s friend” since 1971! Sign up online for our weekly newsletter: great savings, new products, and helpful how-to’s!
GEMSTONE SILKS 5 STYLES, SEE COLORS ONLINE Soft Twist • Bouclé • 2/5 • 2/12 • 2/30
FREE SHIPPING on all
FLOOR LOOMS 24
Yarn photo HALCYON YARN Halcyon’s 2/12 Gemstone Silk is perfectly named—projects woven with it are treasures that will last a lifetime. This plied silk yarn is just the right weight for weaving up scarves and shawls that won’t take forever to warp or weave. Not only is it gorgeous, but the yarn’s ability to breathe means those scarves and shawls will keep you warm in the winter and cool in the summer. We love the richness of the colorways and how the silk finishes without blooming, so woven patterns stay crisp. The 2/12 silk also pairs beautifully with Halcyon’s full line of Gemstone Silks, which includes plied silks of different weights, a soft-twist singles yarn, and even a bouclé.
SILK WALL OF TROY LAURA FRY WITH TRUDY SONIA There is nothing quite like silk, especially when worn next to the skin. Halcyon’s 2/12 Gemstone 100% silk yarn is lustrous, produces great drape, and comes in a variety of beautiful colors. For these scarves, I started with a 4-shaft twill variation that Marguerite Porter Davison
Shown here: 1130, 1040, and 1070.
calls Wall of Troy but expanded it to 8 shafts
FIBER: 100% silk YARDAGE: 105 yd per mini cone; 610 yd per 3.5 oz hank RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace–12; plain weave–16; twill–18 epi COLORWAYS: 20
and then 16 shafts. When combined with silk, twill creates a scarf that feels soft and molds itself around the neck. STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 8-or 16-shaft loom, 11" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 1 shuttle.
PURCHASE NOW
(WIFs included with download)
YARNS Gemstone 2/12 Silk (100% silk; 2,800 yd/lb; Halcyon). FINISHED SIZES 9" x 74" with 5" fringe.
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FRIENDSHIP SCARF SUZIE LILES
8-SHAFT
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FRIENDSHIP SCARF SUZIE LILES
14-SHAFT
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B O C K E N S
SWEDISH YARN FOR THE MODERN WEAVER
L I N E N
DOWNLOAD 2018/2019 PRICELIST AT WWW.GLIMAKRAUSA.COM
Yarn photo GLIMÅKRA USA Bockens 16/2 linen is perfect for weaving heirloom household linens, lightweight garments, and crisp, cool scarves with a beautiful sheen that can only come from linen. Manufactured in Sweden, a country long known for its linen yarns, Bockens 16/2 linen is made from highest-quality Swedish flax. Because linen is naturally light, Bockens 16/2 will keep you cool when it’s warm out, making it perfect for spring and summer scarves. Shown here: #603 Navy Blue and #612 Light Gray FIBER: 100% linen YARDAGE: 1,345 yd per 8.8 oz spool (unbleached); 1,509 yd per 8.8 oz spool (half bleached); 754 yd per 4.4 oz spool (colored) RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace–15; plain weave–20; twill–30 epi COLORWAYS: 70
FRIENDSHIP SCARVES SUZIE LILES I chose the word “friendship” for the 8-shaft version of this scarf and the words “friendship in weaving” for the 14-shaft version because I feel that the weaving community is a friendly one with its guilds and weaving buddies. Weavers share and help each other in many ways. If you’ve never worked with linen before, I encourage you to give it a try. It’s a delightful fiber that produces crisp patterns, and it’s my favorite fiber to work with—I use it just as I do cotton and it works perfectly. STRUCTURE Bronson lace. EQUIPMENT 8- or 16-shaft loom, 8" weaving width; 8-dent reed; 1 shuttle.
PURCHASE NOW
(WIFs included with download)
YARNS 16/2 linen (2,400 yd/lb; 690 yd/4.4 oz; Bockens; Glimåkra USA). FINISHED SIZES 6½" x 66" with 4" fringe.
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JIN SILK SCARF
8-SHAFT
BONNIE INOUYE WITH SANDRA HUTTON
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JIN SILK SCARF
16-SHAFT
BONNIE INOUYE WITH SANDRA HUTTON
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Zola & Carmela silk yarns, designed and woven by Betsy Blumenthal
Your silk experts
All photography by Thomas Harrop
and hand-dyeing specialists since 1977, TreenwaySilks.com more than 30 different undyed silk yarns. Any Yarn/Any Color: Any of Treenway Silks’ yarns can be hand-dyed any of our 140 colors. The ultimate customization!
Alirio-Thinner & Gekko silk yarns, designed by Susan Du Bois, woven by Sandra Hutton
In a hurry? Look for Color Now! skeins. Our most popular silk yarns in your favorite colors are handdyed and ready mail today. Selection changes daily.
Forever in Silk
“Alirio-Thinner & Taiyo yarns, designed by Susan Du Bois, woven by Sandra Hutton”
www.treenwaysilks.com Call toll-free at
1.888.383.silk (7455) Kiku silk yarn in natural-dye colors, designed by 44 Du Bois, woven by Betsy Blumenthal Susan
Lakewood, CO • USA
Silken Ankara & Taiyo silk yarns, woven by Eunice York
Yarn photo TREENWAY SILKS YARNS When you think silk, the words strong and lustrous come to mind. Add the words soft and shimmery and lighter-than-air, and you have the perfect description of Treenway Silks’ Kiku 20/2 and 30/2 Taiyo- spun bombyx silk yarns. Kiku has long been a favorite of weavers, and it’s Treenways Silks’ most popular line, but the slightly thinner Taiyo- also deserves a place in your stash. They’re beautiful on their own, or you can combine them as Bonnie did to create a warp-dominant fabric with excellent drape. Because Treenway Silks custom dyes most of its yarns, both yarns are available in a mind-boggling array of colors. For those who can’t wait for custom dyeing, Treenway Silks offers Kiku and Taiyo- as part of its Color Now! line of predyed yarns. Shown here: Kiku (Pheasant Green and Chamomile Gold), Taiyo- (Endless Sea and Creole Spice) KIKU FIBER: 100% silk YARDAGE: 1,100 yd per 3.5 oz skein RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace–22; plain weave–26; twill–30 epi COLORWAYS: 127 TAIYO FIBER: 100% silk YARDAGE: 1,650 yd per 3.5 oz skein RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace–28; plain weave–32; twill–34 epi COLORWAYS: 127
JIN SILK SCARVES BONNIE INOUYE WITH SANDRA HUTTON Treenway Silks’ 20/2 and 30/2 bombyx silk yarns are the perfect choice for these scarves woven in turned taqueté by Sandra Hutton. Not only does the light-yet-sturdy silk drape beautifully in this warp-emphasis weave structure, but the silk also catches the light and adds to the iridescence created by the careful combination of complementary colors in warp and weft.
STRUCTURE Turned taqueté. EQUIPMENT 8- or 16-shaft loom, 11" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 2 bobbins.
Treenway Silks). Taiyo- 30/2 silk (7,500 yd/lb; 1,650 yd/3.5 oz skein; Treenway Silks). FINISHED SIZES 8½" x 70" with 1" doubleweave hems.
YARNS Kiku 20/2 silk (5,000 yd/lb; 1,100 yd/3.5 oz skein;
PURCHASE NOW
(WIFs included with download)
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BLANKET SCARF ELISABETH HILL
8-SHAFT
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BLANKET SCARF ELISABETH HILL
12-SHAFT
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Yarn photo VÄVSTUGA YARNS Borgs Tuna is a Swedish 6/2 wool yarn with a soft twist, making it perfect for extra-cozy scarves, shawls, blankets, and blanket shawls. Tuna is a delight to weave and fulls up beautifully to create warm fabrics with just the right amount of fluff. We love that Tuna comes in all the classic Swedish colorways as well as more modern selections, so you can use it to weave a piece that’s truly traditional or thoroughly modern. Shown here: #3031 Natural Dark Gray, #3726 Natural Light Gray, and #3001 Natural White FIBER: 100% wool YARDAGE: 339 yd per 100 g skein RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace–8; plain weave–10; twill–12 epi COLORWAYS: 108
BLANKET SCARVES ELISABETH HILL Tuna wool yarn comes in 50 beautiful colors and washes into a soft, plumpy pleasure. I chose a large-scale deflected doubleweave motif for the 8-shaft scarf and a more delicate raindrop motif in summer and winter for the 12-shaft scarf. I call these blanket scarves—they’re between a scarf and a shawl, and they’re intended to be wrapped and tucked around one’s neck and shoulders as a cozy but fashionable defense against the cold. STRUCTURES Deflected doubleweave and summer and winter. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 24" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 3 bobbins. 12-shaft table or dobby loom, 17" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 6 bobbins.
PURCHASE NOW
(WIFs included with download)
YARNS Tuna (6/2 wool; 339 yd/100 g, 1,538 yd/lb; Vävstuga). 16/2 cotton (6,429 yd/lb; Vävstuga). FINISHED SIZES 8-shaft: 17½" x 77" with 4" fringe. 12-shaft: 14½" x 78" with 4" fringe.
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THANK YOU for browsing this issue of LOOM THEORY. If you enjoyed this lookbook, you can purchase the entire pattern collection HERE. You can also click the Purchase Now button on every design information page to be directed to our store page, where you can download the collection. Individual WIFs for each scarf are included with the download. EDITORIAL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, YARN & FIBER Anne Merrow EDITOR Susan E. Horton ASSOCIATE EDITOR Christina Garton MANAGING EDITOR Rachel Koon TECHNICAL EDITORS Rona Aspholm, Deanna Deeds, Elisabeth Hill, Anita Osterhaug, Angela K. Schneider, Susan Wilson, Bettie Zakon-Anderson
FOUNDER Linda Ligon DIRECTOR OF CONTENT, CRAFT Tiffany Warble DIRECTOR OF MEDIA SALES Julie Macdonald DIRECTOR OF MARKETING Kim Greenlee
COPY EDITOR Katie Bright PROOFREADER Ann Weaver WEB PRODUCER Tamara Schmiege SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Andrea Lotz
CREATIVE
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Gregory J. Osberg
GROUP ART DIRECTOR, CRAFT Emily Simpson
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Kenneth Kharbanda
ART DIRECTOR Kit Kinseth
S.V.P., GENERAL MANAGER—F+W CRAFTS GROUP
PRODUCTION DESIGNER Lee Ann Short
David Pyle
PHOTOGRAPHY Caleb Young (Good Folk Photography)
MANAGING DIRECTOR, F+W INTERNATIONAL
PHOTOSTYLING Tina Gill
James Woollam
HAIR & MAKEUP Janie Rocek
V.P., CONSUMER MARKETING John Phelan V.P., GENERAL COUNSEL Robert Sporn
MARKETING/SALES
V.P., HUMAN RESOURCES, CUSTOMER SERVICE, AND
ADVERTISING MANAGER Stephanie Griess
TRADE Gigi Healy
AD TRAFFICKER Mary Lutz
V.P., PRODUCT MANAGEMENT Pat Fitzgerald
DIGITAL MARKETING MANAGER Jessi Rodriguez NEWSSTAND SALES Scott T. Hill (scott.hill@procirc.com)
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