Elevated Basics to Make and Wear, Vol. 3 SEW QUICK + EASY
38 KOOLS CARRY ALL BAG
Stitch an essential raglan tee with a comfortable fit, neckband, and ample opportunity for fabric paneling!
Make these chic and comfy partial elastic waist pants with faux button tabs and hem darts perfect for day trips, work, and lounging.
28 THAMES RAGLAN TEE
32 HURON HOODED ZIPPIE
20 ZIPPERS
06
Create the perfect fall layering piece by making a cropped zip-up hoodie with an elasticated hem, sleeve cuffs, and hood!
THE
CONTENTS SEW QUICK + EASY Volume 3
Create this essential compact tote bag to hold all your daily essentials. It features an outer pocket, accent webbing straps, interior zippered pocket and is fully lined.
42 PICADILLY ELASTIC WAIST PANTS
12 KNIT
GETTING
05 FROM THE EDITOR STARTED DARTS 101 KNOW-HOW 101 PROJECTS
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Any skill level of sewist can enjoy this collection—and if you are new to sewing bags, the Kools Carry All Bag is the perfect start! The pieces in this collection also work together fabulously to create a comfy ensemble that you can live, work, and play in. Before you dive into your fabric stash, browse through the basics of sewing with darts, knits, and zippers in the Getting Started section. We can’t wait to see what you create from this compilation of elevated essentials!
hese past few years comfort sewing has taken a new form. We sew and wear comfier pieces and we sew for self-care, but we still want to create projects that are fun to sew and cute to wear. Sew Quick + Easy Vol. 3 is all about elevated essentials that every sewist needs to hone new skills and build a wardrobe. This collection consists of four basic styles with a twist that will expand your sewing creativity and knowledge. You’ll stitch an elasticated pair of pants with hem darts, a cropped and hooded sweatshirt, an everyday raglan tee, and a compact tote with a surprise pocket!
Meg Healy
T
This time we are doing things a little differently—we have corresponding video tutorials with every pattern! You’ll find instructional videos on our YouTube channel, Sew Daily Network, that demonstrate the most difficult construction details of each project: installing a separating zipper with hood, inserting an invisible zippered pocket, creating an elasticated casing, and even sewing on buttons with a machine. Sewing fun and challenging new patterns has never been easier.
Happy Sewing!
EDITORTHEFROM SEWDAILY.COM 5
In this volume, we expand to a variety of specialty topics to add to your garment sewing knowledge, starting with darts.
A dart is a stitched-down fold in fabric ending in a point that molds fabric to the shape of the body. Darts smoothly taper out excess fabric created as the body curves from fuller to smaller areas. Adding darts is an invaluable way to shape a piece of flat fabric to the body’s contours.
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Darts aren’t just for bodices—they can be used for shaping in a variety of ways.
Darts 101
Getting Started
This volume is intended to build on Sew Quick + Easy, Vol. 1 and Vol. 2 , which cover an extensive amount of basic sewing info aimed at beginners: everything from supplies to machine anatomy to fitting buttonholes. There’s a ton of info there to help you on your way.
When you think of darts you probably think of them radiating around the bust, waist, and hip areas—but darts can also be used in hemlines to create unique silhouettes! Learn basic techniques for stitching three common dart types. Plus, discover tips for moving and manipulating darts to create fashions that best flatter your figure.
Darts are commonly found radiating from the hip to the waist, from the bust to the waist, or from the bust to the side seam. Darts are also used to shape the shoulder area in the front and back, the small of the back, the sleeve at the shoulder, and the bend of the arm.
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DART PLACEMENT
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To sew a single-pointed straight dart, mark the dart lines and any matching points (usually indicated on the pattern with small dots) on the fabric wrong side.
There are three basic types of darts: single-pointed, doublepointed, and curved. Each type has a different shape in order to achieve different results. As a rule, the more curved the dart, the closer it fits to the body.
If you prefer not to tie off threads, decrease the stitch length to 20 stitches per inch as you approach the dart point and stitch off the fold; leave 1�4"-long thread tails.
With right sides together, fold the dart on the centerline. Make sure the outer lines and matching points align; pin at right angles to the stitching line, placing one pin at the dart point.
STRAIGHTDOUBLE-POINTEDDART
For accuracy, stitch doublepointed darts in two separate steps and directions. Mark the dart lines and all matching points on the garment wrong side.
tip
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For more beginner-friendly sewing techniques, www.sewdaily.comvisit
Transfer all dart markings to the fabric wrong side before removing the pattern. Mark delicate or lofty fabric with tailor’s tacks for accuracy and to prevent damage. For more stable fabrics, use tracing paper and a wheel or pins and chalk to transfer the markings.
Stitch from the wide end to the point, making the last two or three stitches as close to the foldline as possible; don’t backstitch. Remove the fabric from the machine, leaving 4"-long thread tails.
Darts point in the direction of a full area of the body where there’s no seam to give shaping. They usually begin with a point 1�2" to 1" from the area of fullness and expand in width as they move away. For instance, on a skirt front, the dart begins just above the tummy fullness and grows into the smaller Dartswaistline.appear on commercial patterns as triangles, diamonds, or football shapes, depending on their type. Before cutting a darted garment, ensure that each dart points toward the fullest part or parts of the body. Redraw the dart to make it longer or shorter, if necessary, to achieve the desired amount of fullness.
This is the most common dart. On a pattern it looks like a triangle with a line through the center (1).
STRAIGHTSINGLE-POINTEDDART
With the thread ends together, tie a knot as close to the dart point as possible.
This dart has a point at each end, appearing as an elongated diamond (2). The double-pointed straight dart can take the place of two single-pointed darts when placed at the waistline. The widest part sits at the waist, with the points toward the bust and hip.
Beginning at the center dot, stitch toward one end point, making the last two or three stitches as close to the foldline as possible; don’t backstitch. Remove the fabric from the machine, leaving 4"-long thread tails.
right sides together, fold the dart through the center so the outer stitch lines and matching points align; pin in place.
Stitch in the opposite direction. Start again from the dart center and work toward the remaining point, overlapping two or three stitches of the previous stitch line. Leave 4" thread tails. Tie the thread tails into knots at each dart end.
Clip the fold edge perpendicular to the stitching in several places along the curve to prevent puckering.
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Clip into the dart fold at the waistline, ending 1�8" from the stitching; press toward the garment center. Clipping the dart alleviates strain at the waistline by eliminating bulk and allows the dart to lie smooth.
3
With the right sides together, fold the dart on the centerline. Match and pin the dart outer lines together, pinning first at the waist point and then at the end points. Add additional pins as needed.
Withside.
Stitch the dart and secure the thread tails, following the instructions above.
Curved darts are stitched very much like straight ones, but because of their shape, curved darts fit closer to the body. On a pattern, a curved dart looks similar to a straight dart, except the stitching lines are curved rather than straight (3)
Mark the dart lines and all matching points on the garment wrong
Bust and body darts add shaping and fitting to tops and dresses.
CURVED DART
To make a released tuck, mark the tuck lines on the garment piece. For tucks on the garment outside, mark the lines on the fabric right side; for tucks on the garment inside, mark the wrong side.
Begin by pressing the dart flat as stitched. Lay the dart over a tailor’s ham and press to one side. For horizontal darts, press the fold down; for vertical darts, press the fold toward the garment center (4)
If the dart is wide or the fabric is heavy, slash the dart to within 1" of the point and trim the seam allowance to 1�2" from the stitching line. Press the slashed seam allowance open and press the point flat (5).
Press the folds in the direction indicated in the pattern guidesheet.
PRESSING DARTS
Tucks are usually marked on patterns as broken lines. Tuck lines are usually straight but can be curved to create a small amount of shaping.
The upper or lower portion of the tuck is often enclosed in a seamline, eliminating the need for any additional stitching.
DART TUCKS
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Also known as release tucks, these folds are used to take in fabric at a specific area and release it at another point. This method is most often used to control fullness at the bust and hips. Unlike darts, the tuck portion can be on the inside or outside of a garment. Only part of the fold is stitched, releasing the fabric’s full width where the stitching ends. The tuck may be secured across the top or bottom, or with a short line of stitching through the center (6).
Bring the marked lines together; pin in place. Stitch as indicated in the pattern guidesheet. Secure by backstitching at the beginning and end of the stitching line or by knotting the thread ends.
Move darts to better suit the fabric or the desired look. Consider the fabric design when deciding where to place darts. Stripes are significantly distorted by the placement of a dart, so decide where to place the distortion or if the distortion can serve as a design element (A). Likewise, if you’re incorporating a border or decorative edge, you might not want to distort the design, so move the dart. Likely places to move bust darts are into the armhole, shoulder, and center front (B).
Manipulate the fabric into an existing dart. If the dart becomes quite large because of your curves, consider dividing it into two smaller parallel darts.
MANIPULATING DARTS
Fill in the new spaces with pattern paper; tape in place. Draw in the new darts, remembering to end the dart just shy of the bust point. Use a curved ruler to draw in curved darts.
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True the dart legs of the new or adjusted dart by pinching it together, folding it in the pressing direction, and trimming off the excess paper.
To add an additional dart for fitting purposes, move the excess fabric that’s pinched out to a more appropriate location, if desired.
To manipulate bust darts, draw a line on the flat pattern through each existing dart to the bust point and from the area where you want to move the dart into the bust point. Cut each line to just shy of the bust point so there’s a hinge in the paper.
Close the darts you want to eliminate by aligning the matching points and taping them closed. This will cause the new spaces in the pattern to spread where you want to send the darts.
A B
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Knit fabrics are made by interloping threads or yarns with each other, resulting in ridges that run lengthwise or crosswise. The loops in the fabric allow knits to stretch. In contrast, woven fabrics, created by interweaving two sets of
The key characteristic of knit fabric is stretchability. When choosing a knit fabric for a project, consider how much it will stretch and how well it will hold or recover its shape. Knits either have one-way stretch (lengthwise or crosswise) or two-way stretch. With one-way stretch knits, pay attention to the area of the most stretch when laying out pattern pieces. Place the maximum stretch where it’s needed most. Generally, the most stretch is found in the crosswise direction—and usually that stretch should wrap around the body, so place the grainline parallel to the lengthwise grain. Check the stretch in both directions and note any special pattern instructions regarding directional stretch. Two-way stretch fabrics have spandex or Lycra in them and are typically
CONSTRUCTION
strands horizontally and vertically on a loom, are thinner and more stable. Knits are either constructed as single-knit or double-knit Afabrics.single-knit fabric is easily distinguished from a double-knit fabric by inspecting both sides. Singleknit fabrics, such as jersey, have small vertical ribs on one side and horizontal loops or “purls” on the other (generally, the loop side is the wrong side). Double knits, such as interlock and rib knits, have vertical ribs on both sides. Another way to distinguish between the two is by pulling the fabric across the stretch. Single knits curl toward the right (rib) side while double knits lie flat.
CHARACTERISTICS
Knit Know-How
From the liquid drape of jersey to the coziness of sweater knits, knit fabrics are highly varied and versatile. Learn how to adjust your sewing techniques to their unique construction and stretchability in order to sew amazing knit projects year-round.
used for swimwear and activewear. They stretch in both directions up to 75%. The type of fiber, such as cotton, wool, bamboo, etc., used in the knit will also affect the stretch. Machine-knitted sweater fabrics are typically comprised of a variety of fibers and are either tightly or loosely knitted, resulting in a wide range of Becausestretchability.allknitfabrics
Use pattern weights to secure the pattern paper to the fabric. Not only do pattern weights make cutting faster, they also make it more accurate because you don’t risk stretching the fabric as you cut.
SEAMS & HEMS
CARE
Most patterns for knit fabrics have 1 ⁄4" to 3 ⁄ 8" seam allowances. If the pattern has larger seam allowances, trim them down after seaming unless a specific reason is given for maintaining them. The seam allowances won’t fray like woven fabrics, so there’s no need to finish the seams. However, for the
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Buy the biggest self-healing cutting mat possible and use a rotary cutter to cut knits. If the right and wrong sides are not easily identifiable, pick one and use removable tape to mark it as the wrong side on each fabric piece. This ensures all the right sides are the same.
Use glass-head stainless steel pins. They effortlessly pierce the fabric and won’t leave marks. Carefully mark the notches and other design details using a fabric marking pen, tailor’s chalk, or a chalk wheel.
Wash the fabric the way you plan to wash the finished project. If it’s a knit you’ve never worked with before, first wash a 6" square test swatch. Prewash not only to preshrink the fabric but also to remove any sizing (a chemical finish applied to many fabrics during the manufacturing process), dust, and other particles before sewing.
CUTTING & MARKING
Smooth the fabric on the cutting mat, making sure it’s on grain; check that the stitch columns are running straight up and down and aren’t at an angle. If the fabric is really long, put a chair or a table next to the cutting table to catch the pool of fabric; this minimizes the stretch that occurs when a knit fabric is allowed to hang.
have some degree of stretch, patterns designed for knit fabrics have what’s called “wearing ease.” Based on the type of knit recommended in the pattern, the pattern may have a little to a lot of wearing ease, or in some cases, even negative ease, meaning the finished garment will be smaller than the body size. In the case of negative ease, the fabric stretches to fit the body. Recoverability is the fabric’s ability to hold and return to its original shape. If you have a T-shirt that has lost its shape after a certain amount of washing and wearing, take a look at the label. It most likely doesn’t have any Lycra. Even a small percent of Lycra in the fabric does wonders for fabric recoverability.
Pretreat cotton and polyester knits in the washer and dryer.
Wash rayon knits using the gentle cycle set on warm and tumble dry on very low heat. Always handwash silk knits in mild soap and air-dry. Handwash and air-dry or dry-clean wool knits because agitation in the washing machine may cause the wool to felt.
Don’t slide the iron while pressing, to avoid marking the fabric. Instead, lower the iron to the seam and then lift it to move to a different Adjustarea.the iron temperature based on the fabric fiber content and use heavy steam.
Check to see whether the chosen knit is prone to shine marks by pressing first on a test swatch. If marks result, place a press cloth over the fabric.
of the garment to look as pretty as the outside, and if not using a serger, take the extra step to ensure professional results.
finish, bind the seam allowances. Cut a long 1"-wide strip of knit fabric in the same or contrasting color as the main fabric. Fold the long raw edges 1�4" toward the wrong side to meet in the strip center, and then fold the strip in half lengthwise so it’s 1 ⁄4" wide. Wrap the strip around the seam allowances; stitch close to the first fold.
Press open the seam allowances or press them to one side.
PRESSING
When seaming knits, there are a couple of options. If using a conventional sewing machine, use a zigzag stitch with a 0.5mm to 0.7mm width and 2.5mm to 3mm length or a stretch stitch (refer to the sewing machine manual for the recommended setting). Alternatively, use a serger set to a three- or four-thread stitch.
To hem knits on a conventional sewing machine, fold the hem allowance toward the wrong side
For seams that will stretch with wear, such as the seams on a close-fitting garment, finish the
tip
seam allowance using a very narrow zigzag stitch or stretch Forstitch.aprofessional
Press on the stitching line, burying the stitches in the fabric.
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When knits are correctly pressed, the seams are almost invisible.
and use a wide zigzag or decorative stretch stitch. Or stitch a twin-needle hem using two spools of matching thread and a stretch twin needle. Follow the threading directions for twin-needle sewing in the sewing machine manual, thread both needles in the same color, and wind the bobbin with wooly nylon thread. Set the machine to a 3mm straight stitch, or the suggested stretch stitch for twin needles, and slowly topstitch. The wooly nylon thread on the bobbin allows the hem to stretch as you stitch.
WOOL
NYLON
Nylon knits are usually shinier than polyester knits. They have 75% or more stretch, allowing for negative ease when making swimwear and other close-fitting garments.
COTTON
RAYON/BAMBOOPOLYESTERCOTTONWOOLSILKNYLON SEWDAILY.COM 15SEW DAILY.COM
POLYESTER
Wool knit is warm and usually heavier in weight. Like cotton, it’s easy to sew because it tends to be relatively stable. Consider lining it with a softer knit because wool is often scratchy.
When it comes to drape and shine, nothing beats the luxury of a silk knit. It’s soft and comfortable to wear, lightweight, drapes beautifully, and looks gorgeous.
If sewing for babies and kids or looking for T-shirt material, cotton knit is the best option. It’s a generally stable knit, so it holds its shape well, making it easy to sew. And it’s machine washable.
Knits are made from a variety of fibers, including cotton, wool, silk, polyester, nylon, rayon, and bamboo. Each one has a unique “hand” or drape. Here are some characteristics of different fiber-based knits.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT KNIT FIBER
SILK
The most widely available knit fabric, polyester comes in a variety of vibrant colors and prints. The surface is very smooth, making it slightly difficult to identify the ribs. Garments made from polyester knits travel well because they don’t wrinkle. However, polyester knits don’t breathe, so consider this factor when choosing fabric.
RAYON/BAMBOO
Rayon is a regenerated cellulose fiber that is made from wood, paper, cotton fiber, or bamboo. The process results in a smooth and silky fiber that not only drapes beautifully, but also breathes, so it’s comfortable to wear.
Anytime you encounter one of the following issues with a knit, you’ll be tempted to give up in frustration. Take a deep breath, relax, and refer to these troubleshooting tips for help.
Know-How” on page 17). For tricky knits, cut the fabric with a larger seam allowance (up to 1") than the pattern directs so it’s easier to sew. Trim the excess after seaming is complete.
TROUBLESHOOTING
The stitches are puckered. Stitches pucker because the fabric layers aren’t feeding evenly. To ensure the machine is feeding the fabric properly, cut two strips of fabric the same length and run them through the machine. If they’re aligned, the machine isn’t to blame; if they’re not, check the manual and learn how to adjust the feed dogs. If the problem persists, reduce the foot pressure.
STORAGE
The fabric curls while sewing. Certain types of knit fabrics curl naturally. If it’s bothersome, use spray starch followed by light pressing to temporarily straighten the edge while you sew. Or, use the curling edge as an accent. Stretch the fabric a few times so it curls even more. Use that edge as a great neckline finish.
Knits have a tendency to stretch out, so keep them folded in a drawer. Hang knit skirts using skirt hangers. Stitch hanger loops made with pretty ribbon at the waist of skirts and shoulder seams of knit tops and dresses to preserve their shape. Store unsewn knit fabric folded or rolled on tubes.
Control the fabric layers as you sew by stitching slowly. Stop periodically to ensure alignment, and then continue sewing. If the shifting persists, check the foot pressure. Too much pressure may result in puckered fabric and too little causes the fabric to slip. A walking foot is also a useful tool that feeds fabric at the same rate, keeping it from shifting.
Try out sewing with knits with the THAMES RAGLAN TEE & HOODEDHURONZIPPIE
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I have skipped stitches. Stitches are skipped when the needle isn’t able to pierce the fabric cleanly and as a result doesn’t contact the bobbin thread to form a loop. Switch to a Microtex sharp needle for dense fabrics. And, of course, always use a new needle, as a dull one will create problems no matter what type it is.
The fabric layers shift during sewing.
The seams or fabric edges are getting pulled into the machine. This problem is bound to occur once in a while when working with a lightweight knit. Stop the machine. Hand-turn the wheel until the needle is in the up position, clip the threads, and then pull out the fabric. Switch to a straightstitch foot, which gives the fabric more grip and allows the needle to pierce the fabric more smoothly. Also make sure the correct needle is installed (see “Knit Needle
A stretch twin needle features two needles mounted on one shaft. It’s used to create two rows of topstitching simultaneously to finish hems.
A Microtex sharp needle is for microfiber (very fine) knits. It has a very tiny sharp point that creates precision topstitching and prevents skipped stitches.
A ballpoint needle is made specifically for sewing knits. Its rounded point fits between the ribs instead of breaking the fibers. This needle is especially useful on knits that snag easily.
A stretch needle has a medium ball point that prevents skipped stitches. It’s used most often for highly elastic fabrics, such as those used for swimwear, and for fabrics that have a high percent of Lycra.
KNIT NEEDLE KNOW-HOW
A universal needle is the most widely used needle for sewing woven as well as stable knits. It has a slightly rounded point, and a size 75/ 11 works for most fabrics.
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Here’s a reference guide to the different types of sewing-machine needles suitable for knits.
Bamboo/Spandex Rib Knit
Great for sweatpants, hoodies, sleepwear, and leggings + dyed with eco friendly dyes. Explore it all, in store!onlineour 18 SEW QUICK + EASY VOL. 3
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Bamboo Stretch Fleece
Ideal for tops and trims + keeps its softness through many washes.
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Clothing, pillows, tents, shoes, and purses are just a few places where zippers are used on a daily basis. A relatively modern invention, zippers were first invented in the 1890s as a shoe closure to replace buttons that were time-consuming to Zippersclose.gained widespread popularity during World War I when the military ordered 10,000 zippers for flying suits and money belts. Early versions of this closure had fun names, such as the Automatic Continuous Clothing Closure, Clasp Locker, Unlocker for Shoes, and C-curity. The name used today came from B. F. Goodrich, a company that used zippers on rubber galoshes. The galoshes were called zippers because of the sound made when closing them, and the name came to identify the type of closure no matter what type of item it closed.
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Discover the anatomy of the zipper, plus learn how to install the three most-used zipper types.
Zippers 101
(4) Zipper Pull: The pull is the metal tab attached to the slider to move it up and down. Zipper pulls are often utilitarian in style but can also be decorative, if desired.
ZIPPER STYLES
(5) Stops: The metal pieces at the coil upper and lower edge are called stops. Upper and lower stops keep the slider and zipper pull from being pulled off the tapes. Most zippers have one lower stop and two upper stops, with one on each coil. Others may have only one top stop for a closed zipper, suitable for pockets and side zippers.
(3) Slider: The slider is the device that moves up and down the coils to bring them together or to separate them to open the zipper.
The two most common types of zippers are the conventional zipper and the invisible zipper. There are other types of zippers
(1) Coils: Also called chains, there are two coils made up of interlocking teeth that mesh together when closed. Coils may be made of nylon, polyester, or metal.
PARTS OF A ZIPPER
(2) Zipper Tape: The woven fabric part of the zipper to which the coils are attached is called the zipper tape. The tapes extend slightly above and below the zipper coils, except in a separating zipper.
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As simple and easy as zippers are to use, knowing the parts that work together to make a zipper helps to sew them.
An invisible zipper is easy to install but requires a special presser foot that holds the polyester coils out of the way so the needle can stitch the zipper on the garment seamline. Once the zipper is closed, the zipper disappears into the seamline, and the only visible part is the teardrop tab.
for special applications, such as separating zippers that pull apart into two separate tapes, zippers made with plastic or metal teeth along one edge, and trouser zippers with extra-wide tapes and heavy-duty metal teeth. The conventional zipper is the one familiar to most people, and it’s used mainly in skirt and pant seams and at neckline openings.
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Stitching a zipper is easiest when using a narrow presser foot that allows the needle to get as close to the coils as possible. A zipper foot is also helpful in special situations, such as for making piping, sewing trims, and stitching hook-and-loop tape. There are several types of zipper feet, and most sewing machines include one with purchase. Other styles are often available as optional accessories.
ZIPPER FEET
• Close the zipper for stitching so the tab is above the fabric upper edge, but don’t forget to unzip it before trimming.
(7) Sliding or Snap-on Foot: Used on machines with a stationary needle, these feet slide or snap on to the right or left of the zipper coils so the needle can stitch close to them.
(6) Stationary Foot: This foot works with adjustable needle positions found on some machines. The foot is slim and narrow with a notch on each side.
(9) Zipper Foot with Guide: Some zipper feet have adjustable guides that make it easy to sew parallel to the seam, creating perfectly stitched laps.
The needle is moved to the right or left as needed to stitch in the notch, allowing the foot to ride beside the coils as the needle stitches near them. Some machine brands have additional options that offer guides to help keep the stitching parallel to the seamline or dual/even-feed functions that help feed the fabric layers and zipper tapes at the same rate, eliminating slipping or shifting during stitching.
• Attach a seam guide to the presser foot to make it easy to sew parallel to the fabric folded edge.
(10) Non-Stick Zipper Foot: A special coating on the sole of this zipper foot makes it useful for sewing zippers into leather or vinyl projects. The coating helps it easily slide across sticky fabrics.
• Use a zipper 2" to 4" longer than the opening, eliminating the need to sew around the pull tab.
• Use clear tape across the zipper to hold it in place for stitching.
ZIP TIPS
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(8) Invisible Foot: Necessary for sewing invisible zippers, this foot is often an optional accessory for specific brands. There’s also an inexpensive generic version sold at fabric stores that fits most sewing machines.
• Easily shorten a zipper if needed. Find the desired length by measuring from the top down. Lower the feed dogs on the machine, zigzag across the coils at the desired point, and then trim the zipper tape below the stitching.
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• Repeat to stitch the zipper opposite edge. Pull the thread ends to the wrong side and knot to secure. Remove the basting stitches.
• Install a zipper foot and adjust the foot or needle position as needed to sew as close to the teeth as possible. Sew from the right side and begin at the seamline at the zipper lower edge. Stitch 3�8" using a seam allowance perpendicular to the seamline. Pivot at the zipper beginning and across the zipper teeth, topstitching through all layers.
• Press open the seam allowances and place the right side of the zipper tape over the seam allowances, centering the zipper coils over the seam. Pin or tape each side of the zipper tape to the fabric.
• Remove the basting to allow the zipper to open.
Also called a slot zipper, a centered zippered is easy for beginners and works well in necklines and as a back zipper for skirts or slacks. Placed behind a basted seam, the zipper is then topstitched from the front along each side.
CENTERED ZIPPER INSERTION
• Install an all-purpose presser foot and set the machine for a basting stitch. Sew the seam behind the zipper location, securing the stitches at each end. Change the settings to a standard 3.5mm stitch length and continue stitching the remainder of the seam below the position of the zipper location.
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• Using an all-purpose or zipper foot, complete the seam below the zipper. Zip the zipper to close the seam.
• Using a fabric marker, draw a line 3�4" from and parallel to the folded edge.
A lapped zipper is sewn between two separate fabric pieces and works best for home décor and craft applications, such as pillow backs and purses. The extra-wide lap completely hides the coils of the zipper.
• Place the marked fabric over the zipper with the drawn line next to the coils; the folded edge should overlap the previous stitching.
• Fold the second fabric edge 1" to the wrong side; press.
• Position the remaining zipper tape on the second fabric edge, checking to ensure the zipper isn’t twisted. Stitch the zipper length.
• Fold one fabric edge 1�2" to the wrong side. Position the folded edge on the corresponding zipper tape; pin. Place the fabric under the zipper foot and adjust the foot or the needle position as needed to sew as close to the teeth as possible.
• Serge or overcast the fabric edge before folding, if desired.
• Place the zipper tape right side down on the fabric edge with the coil on the seamline.
EASY LAPPED ZIPPER INSERTION
When closed, the coils of an invisible zipper are hidden on the inside, making the zipper right side look like a seam. The zipper is stitched to the seamlines, and the only part of the zipper that shows when closed is the tab. It’s the perfect closure for designer garments where an uninterrupted line is desired. It also works well as an inconspicuous closure for pillows and bags. For this insertion, the zipper is sewn to separate fabric pieces, and the seam below the zipper is stitched after the zipper is attached to the fabric
•pieces.Install an invisible zipper foot.
• Position the coil in the groove of the foot, and sew the zipper length on either side.
INVISIBLE ZIPPER INSERTION
• Working from the fabric right side, stitch along the marked line through all layers.
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