SEW
Q U I C K + E A SY Elevated Basics to Make and Wear, Vol. 2
CONTENTS
04 FROM THE EDITOR
GETTING STARTED 06 FITTING BASICS 09 KNITS VS. WOVENS 15 BUTTONHOLE BASICS 18 RUFFLES & GATHERING 20 CAPSULE TIME 21 HACK HOW-TO: TRINCHERA T-SHIRT 3 WAYS! 23 SIZE CHART
THE PROJECTS 26 TRINCHERA T-SHIRT Sew a basic boxy tee with a cropped hemline. 30 COLLINS WRAP CULOTTES Create unique culottes with a wrap-around leg silhouette. 34 PEAK PANELED UNDIES Stitch a pair of high waisted panties using scrap fabrics. 38 VINTAGELY TIERED SKIRT Gather together panels of fabric to create an easy, breezy midi skirt. 42 BAILEY DRAWSTRING BACKPACK Carry all your essentials in this fun-to-make bag. 46 CLEAR CREEK CAMP SHIRT Stitch a classic blouse with all the essential details.
SEW
QUICK + EASY Volume 2
Dream it,
Sew it
FROM THE EDITOR
W
hen you start sewing, a whole world of possibilities opens to you. You start to imagine and dream up all the things you want to sew in all the colors of the rainbow, and yes, it is achievable. Each garment you make is a learning experience, and you acquire and build on new skills and techniques with every new project. This is where this volume of Sew Quick + Easy comes into play. This collection consists of six elevated basics that will have you stepping out of your sewing comfort zone with sewing knits, gathers, buttonholes and more! These six pieces were designed to suit a confident beginner who has knowledge of sewing basics like seaming, hemming and working with patterns. They also all work together to create a fabulous capsule collection. The styles are all elevated basics—a boxy tee, a wrap skirt, a button-up shirt, culottes and a drawstring backpack—that will have you confidently coordinated while learning new sewing practices. Did we mention there are also undies included? Fear knit fabrics no more and stop purchasing basics like T-shirts and underwear as they can easily be sewn up using scrap fabrics. Raise your style and sewing skills by mastering buttonholes, gathering and binding through this tutorial-packed collection. First browse through the basics of each technique, then dive into your fabric stash to stitch up fabulous basics that build upon your existing wardrobe. Whether you are starting out sewing, brushing up on your skills or a master of the craft— everyone can use a little basic.
Happy Sewing! Meg Healy, Contributing Editor
SEWDAILY.COM
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Getting Started
This volume is intended to build on Sew Quick + Easy, Vol. 1, which covers an extensive amount of basic sewing info aimed at beginners. From supplies to machine anatomy to working with patterns, there’s a ton of info there to help you on your way. In this volume, we’ll cover a variety of specialty topics to help you expand your garment sewing base knowledge, starting with some basic fitting know-how.
Fitting Basics
Nothing is more frustrating than trying on the garment you just completed, only to discover that you don’t like the way it fits. Learn basic fitting concepts and troubleshooting tips to achieve a good fit for you.
PATTERN NOTES
Pay close attention to the pattern details regarding fitting and fabric recommendations before you buy fabric or begin sewing to eliminate fitting headaches down the line.
GARMENT DESCRIPTION:
Read the garment description to get a sense of how the pattern is designed to fit, including the amount of ease. Ease is the amount of space in a garment in addition to the body measurements, which allows the wearer to move and bend comfortably. Pay attention to descriptors such as “semifitted” or “loose-fitting.”
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SUGGESTED FABRICS:
Different fabric types vary greatly in terms of their weight, “hand” (how the fabric feels) and amount of stretch, so it’s important to choose a fabric that helps create the pattern’s intended silhouette. Refer to the suggested fabric types listed on the pattern envelope.
MEASUREMENTS:
To determine which pattern size to use, compare your body measurements to the standard body measurements printed on the back of the pattern envelope. These measurements differ from ready-to-wear sizing, so your pattern size is likely different than your ready-to-wear size. You can also grade between sizes and create a custom size line by connecting the sizes at the points in which they fit you. For example, you can blend a curve between size 10 at the bust, size 8 at the waist and size 12 at the hip using a curved ruler.
Try on the sample garment wearing the intended shoes and undergarments. Stand back a few feet from a full-length mirror or place the sample on a dress form. Pin any closures closed. Evaluate the fit of each area individually. Look for drag lines or wrinkles beginning with the garment front; pin the excess fabric, keeping the grainlines and hemlines as straight as possible. Don’t pin too much fabric in one location; distribute excess fullness evenly. For example, if a skirt waistline is too large, pin away the extra fabric equally on both side seams (1).
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Separate the pattern pieces along the seamlines using a seam ripper and press. Draw smooth and precise lines to indicate the alteration lines. Use a French curve to assist in drawing curved seams.
ing clothing, and even if you’ve been sewing garments for a while, consider stitching a test garment in inexpensive fabric, also called a muslin, to work out the fitting kinks.
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Once you’re satisfied with the sample alterations, take off the sample or remove it from the dress form. Mark the fabric where the pins are, then remove the pins (2). If you added fabric to the sample, straighten the pins, then baste the fabric to the garment sample.
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TEST FIT: If you’re new to sew-
Choose the pattern size according to your measurements. From the test fabric, cut out only the main pattern pieces according to the size you’ve selected, skipping details such as collars, plackets or pockets. Construct the main garment body, following the pattern guidesheet and using a basting stitch, but don’t finish the seams or raw edges or construct the garment closure.
sample or on a piece of paper to remind you of important details.
Transfer the changes to the original paper pattern, or retrace the adjusted pattern onto fresh paper. Determine whether you’re happy with the length of the hemline and/or sleeves. To shorten a sleeve, pant or skirt length, fold out the excess length, then pin. Once each individual area is fitted and pinned, look at the sample garment as a whole. Ensure that the garment still has the needed wearing and design ease. Make notes and comments on the
For more beginner-friendly sewing techniques, visit www.sewdaily.com
Knits vs. Wovens Most fabrics fall into one of two basic categories: knit or woven. Find out how to tell the difference between the two options to make the best choice for your project, then learn sewing and finishing techniques for each type.
CONSTRUCTION CUES
Knit and woven fabrics are constructed using different processes that give the fabrics very different properties. When identifying a fabric, closely examine the surface. Woven fabric is created on a loom, so horizontal and vertical yarns intersecting at right angles are visible (3). The vertical yarns on the loom form the lengthwise fabric grain and are known as the warp. The horizontal yarns form the crosswise grain and are known as the weft. Unless a stretchy fiber, such as spandex, is included in the yarn, woven fabrics have no significant stretch in the lengthwise or crosswise directions. The only stretch is on the bias or the diagonal direction. Knit fabric is created on a knitting machine with one continuous yarn formed into tiny connected loops (4). Because knit fabric is composed of intersecting loops, the fabric has inherent stretch and elasticity (the ability to recover its original shape after stretching) in one or both directions. If you pull crosswise, woven fabric remains rigid, while knit fabric easily stretches. Knit fabric usually has a softer and more fluid hand than woven fabric
(a quality referred to as “drape”), making it more wrinkle-resistant. Knit fabrics work well for garments that have a soft or flowing silhouette, such as casual tops or wrap dresses. Very stretchy knits are appropriate for garments that need to move and stretch in every direction, such as swimwear and activewear. Woven fabric is usually stiffer and has less drape, so it’s appropriate for more structured garments, such as jackets, formal gowns or jeans. Within each major category of knit or woven fabrics, there are hundreds of fabric types that vary in terms of appearance, fiber content, drape, weight and end use. For example, woven fabrics include a huge spectrum of fabrics, such as broadcloth, chiffon and denim. Knit fabrics include jersey, velour and mesh. Always use notions, tools and interfacing that complement your chosen fabric type.
PATTERN PARTICULARS
Most commercial patterns are designed to work with either knit or woven fabric, and clearly indicate which one to use. Check the “Suggested Fabrics” section on the pattern envelope to find out which fabric type is recommended for the project. This information is critical to creating a successful garment because it ensures that the pattern design is compatible with the fabric type’s characteristics. For example,
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because woven fabric doesn’t stretch, patterns designed for woven fabrics include a few inches of wearing ease to allow the wearer to move comfortably. Patterns designed for knit fabrics include less wearing ease because the fabric stretches and moves along with the wearer. If you use knit fabric to sew a pattern that’s designed for a woven fabric, chances are that the final garment will be too big and baggy. Likewise, a knit pattern sewn in woven fabric will be too snug. Patterns designed for woven fabrics usually include more shaping devices, such as darts and gathers, because the fabric needs to be manipulated to fit a three-dimensional body. Again, because knit fabric has stretch, it easily conforms to a three-dimensional shape, so it’s not necessary to include as many shaping devices. A woven blouse requires bust and waist darts or shaped princess seams to fit the bustline, whereas a knit T-shirt simply stretches over the bust without the aid of darts or seams. Knit fabrics are more likely to pucker or wave along seamlines because of the stretch, so simpler patterns with fewer seams and design lines are usually more suitable. Knit fabric patterns also require fewer closures, such as zippers or button plackets. SEWDAILY.COM
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stretch compared to a non-stretch woven fabric, so make sure that the chosen pattern is suitable for stretch woven fabric. In most cases, stretch woven fabrics don’t stretch as much as knit fabrics, so they aren’t suitable for patterns designed for knits.
KNIT NOTES
Because knit fabrics have stretch, they require a few more considerations than woven fabrics for successful sewing. Use a sewing machine needle suitable for knit fabrics, such as a stretch or jersey needle (5). 5
WOVEN CONSIDERATIONS
Woven fabrics don’t stretch on the lengthwise or crosswise grain, so they tend to be slightly easier than knit fabrics to cut and manipulate. When sewing woven fabric, use a needle size and thread type suitable for the specific woven fabric. Universal needles are appropriate for most mediumweight woven fabrics. Because of their structure, woven fabrics ravel along raw edges. It’s easy to pull loose threads from both the weft and warp. Therefore, it’s necessary to finish woven raw edges to prevent fraying and seam slippage. Finish raw edges according to a method that’s most suitable for the woven fabric type and garment area. Double-folded hems are ideal for light- to mediumweight fabrics. For heavyweight woven fabrics, reduce bulk by serge- or zigzag finishing the raw edge, and then fold the hem allowance once. 10
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STRETCH WOVENS As textile science and manufacturing evolves, more stretch woven fabrics are becoming available. Stretchy fibers, such as spandex, are included in the yarn to combine the crisp appearance of a woven fabric with the added comfort of stretch. To find out if a woven fabric includes stretch fibers, check the fiber content listed on the bolt. Even 1% spandex can provide considerable
Both needle types have a medium ball point that’s designed to slip between the tiny knit loops rather than pierce them, which can cause tears and snags. Choose a needle
size that’s appropriate for the knit fabric weight and thickness. Use sharp pins, such as silk pins, to avoid snagging the fabric. Use all-purpose or polyester thread. These thread types are strong enough to withstand the fabric stretching without popping. When cutting knit fabrics, use pattern weights rather than pins to secure the patterns and prevent shifting. To prevent stretching and distortion during cutting, make sure the cutting surface supports all of the fabric; read more tips on cutting knits on page 12. Use a compatible stitch on the machine or serger according to the knit fabric type and the garment area, and test-stitch or serge fabric scraps to determine the appropriate stitch and tension settings. Sergers work very well for constructing knit garments because the stitch is formed from multiple looped threads and includes stretch. Sergers are different from conventional sewing machines because they have two sets of feed dogs positioned one in front of the other under the throatplate. This allows for a feature called “differential feed,” meaning that the two feed dog sets can be adjusted to feed the fabric through the machine at different speeds.
When using a conventional machine to stitch knit fabrics, use a stretch or narrow zigzag stitch. When sewing knit fabrics, don’t stretch the fabric as you stitch to prevent wavy or distorted seams. Press knit seams using steam to help the fabric recover its shape and eliminate waviness after stitching. Knit fabrics don’t ravel, so the seam allowance for most knit garment patterns is narrower than for woven garment patterns. It’s also not necessary to double-fold knit hems or finish raw edges. However, the tiny loops in knit fabrics snag and run more easily than woven fabrics, so use sharp scissors, rotary cutter blades, pins and needles to avoid catching and snagging the yarns. Knit fabrics have varying degrees of stretch depending on the fiber content and specific knit structure. Patterns designed for knit fabrics include information about how much stretch is needed for the garment to fit correctly. If a pattern indicates that a fabric with 50% crosswise stretch is required, the fabric must double in horizontal length when pulled in the crosswise direction. Some knit fabrics also stretch in both the lengthwise and crosswise directions, so check if the pattern calls for a fabric with “one-way” or “twoway” stretch.
For more beginner-friendly sewing techniques, check out our online how-to resources.
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CUTTING KNIT FABRICS Rotary fabric cutters, mats and rulers help you cut fabric smoothly, straightly and evenly, especially knit fabrics. When you cut knit fabrics with scissors, the fabric often lifts up as you cut, which causes the fabric to stretch and distort the pattern piece shape. A rotary cutter and mat allows you to keep the fabric flat while you cut it. Available in many sizes, rotary cutters are also helpful for cutting multiple fabric layers, bias binding, projects with dimensions instead of pattern pieces (such as bags) or decorative fabric edges. Always use a rotary cutting mat when using a rotary cutter. The mats are self-healing, and blades won’t damage them. Most mats have grids that provide a guide for fabric placement, and they’re designed to be used with rulers. Rulers align the fabric and hold it firmly against the cutting mat for optimal accuracy. Most rotary rulers have 30°, 45° and 60° lines imprinted on them, so you can cut fabric at precise angles. Like rotary mats, keep your rulers in a safe place so they don’t get scratched.
For over 42 years the rotary cutter has been the tool behind many great creations!
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For projects big and small select from our 18, 28, 45 and 60mm handle styles. All OLFA rotary cutters are for both right- and lefthanded users. To extend the life of your rotary blade be sure to use OLFA rotary mats.
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NEW COLLECTION FROM SEW QUICK + EASY! Get Your Patterns & Enter to Win WE’VE GOT ANOTHER FABULOUS PATTERN COLLECTION YOU’LL LOVE! Sew Quick + Easy Vol. 2 is a collection of our favorite beginner-friendly patterns that make learning how to sew easy and fun. Download your 6 FREE PATTERNS and enter for a chance to win a Baby Lock Zest Sewing Machine and a Baby Lock Genuine Collection Trolley prize pack valued at $400.00!
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Buttonhole Basics Buttonholes are important closures for many accessory, home décor and garment projects, like the Clear Creek Camp Shirt on page 44. Machine-stitched buttonholes are created using two parallel rows of zigzag stitches and bar tacks at each end. Modern sewing machines can create buttonholes easily and accurately, especially if your machine has a one-step buttonhole function.
horizontal or vertical buttonholes depending on the application.
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Horizontal buttons are the most secure and used on most garments. Vertical buttonholes are used on narrow plackets, such as a shirt band. Mark the vertical centerline on the right and left garment. Mark the desired buttonhole locations at the neck and 4" to 5" above the hem. Measure the distance between the upper and lower button and record. To calculate the distance between buttonholes, divide the measurement by one less than the number of buttons to be used and record. Draw a vertical line 1⁄8" to the right of and parallel to the centerline; label this as line A. Draw another vertical line to the left of and parallel to line A according to the recorded button length measurement; label this as line B.
BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT
Marking the correct buttonhole placement on a garment is essential to ensure a proper fit without gaping between the buttonholes, especially if the pattern you’re working with doesn’t include a buttonhole placement guide. Place buttonholes in relation to the button centerline, which is marked on the garment right and left side to align the garment center for a proper closure. Select
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Draw a horizontal line between lines A and B along the centerline according to the recorded distance measurement. Slightly adjust the spacing to place a buttonhole at the fullest part of the bust and waist (6). When positioning vertical buttonholes, place the recorded buttonhole lengths on the centerline, orienting the buttonhole upper edges 1⁄8" above each center mark and spacing them the same as horizontal buttons (7). SEWDAILY.COM
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ONE-STEP BUTTONHOLES
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One-step buttonholes are created by selecting the built-in buttonhole stitch and installing a buttonhole foot. Most modern machines automatically determine the buttonhole length by placing the desired button into the buttonhole foot carrier. The machine automatically stitches the buttonhole components without having to guide or reposition the fabric. Insert the desired button into the buttonhole foot carrier. Select the desired buttonhole stitch on the machine. Position the fabric under the presser foot, aligning the foot markings with the buttonhole markings. Lower the presser foot and stitch the buttonhole (8). Remove the fabric from the machine; trim the thread tails.
CUTTING
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Cut machine-stitched buttonholes after stitching. Hand-stitched buttonholes should be cut before stitching. Insert straight pins at each buttonhole end in front of the bar tacks to avoid cutting through the stitching. Using a specialty buttonhole cutting tool, scissors or a seam ripper, carefully cut between the pins through the fabric, making sure to not cut through the stitching (9). Apply a small line of seam sealant along the cut edges for added security.
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Ruffles & Gathering
Ruffles add volume and fun to any project or garment, like the Vintagely Tiered Skirt on page 38. Learn the ins and outs for perfect ruffles every time using three simple techniques.
BASTED AWAY
Select a 4 mm- to 5 mm-long basting stitch. Stitch 1⁄2" from the raw edge, leaving long thread tails at the beginning and end of stitching. Stitch another basting stitch row 1⁄4" from the raw edge, again leaving long thread tails at the beginning and end. Gently pull the bobbin tails to gather the fabric to the desired length (10) and evenly distribute the gathers. For heavyweight fabrics, use heavyweight thread in the bobbin for extra strength while gathering.
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STRING THING
Select a 3 mm- to 3.5 mm-long zigzag stitch. Position a string or cord length 4" longer than the fabric piece just inside the seamline along the seam allowance. Tack down one cord end. Center the presser foot over the string, and then zigzag stitch over the string or cord. Gently pull the string or cord to gather the fabric to the desired length, making sure not to pull the opposite end through the stitching (11); evenly distribute the gathers along the cord. Remove the cord after attaching to the fabric or garment. This method works best for heavyweight fabrics, such as home-décor fabrics. 18
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SPECIALTY FEET
Use a gathering or ruffling foot for a sewing machine or serger to quickly make ruffles. Check with your machine dealer for a list of gathering or ruffling feet that are compatible with your machine.
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A LENGTHY MATTER
To determine the fabric strip length needed to create a ruffle, double or triple the desired finished length. For example, if a 20"- long ruffle is needed, cut a 40"- to 60"- long fabric strip. The longer the fabric length, the tighter
the gathers. Heavyweight fabric requires a shorter fabric length and a lightweight fabric requires a longer fabric length to create the same amount of gathers. Piece together strips as needed to create the desired length.
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Capsule Time: Sew All Your Pieces to Match!
Look 1 (T-shirt, culottes)
Look 2 (Tiered skirt, blouse)
Look 3 (T-shirt, blouse overlay, culottes)
Creating a capsule wardrobe is a fun and easy way to build outfits. All the patterns in this collection work together when sewn in complimentary fabrics. If you’re stuck on fabric selection for your mini-capsule, start with a print. A print fabric with multiple colors can provide a color story to build on. Look for a print that includes two neutrals and at least two accent colors. If you like the colors combined in the print, you’re almost certain to like them equally well as solids in mix-and-match combinations.
The capsule starts with the “Core Four” as building blocks: two bottoms and two tops. Sew up at least one in a print and the others in neutrals in the print. Combine these four basic pieces into four different outfits:
As an example, Meg opted for the Clear Creek Camp Shirt to be the statement print piece within her capsule and pulled the other fabrics from there. She stitched the Trinchera T-Shirt and Vintagely Tiered Skirt in solid colors from within the print. For the Collins Wrap Culottes, Meg used a subtle, complementary stripe.
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• T-shirt and culottes • T-shirt and skirt • Blouse and culottes • Blouse and skirt Worn open over the T-shirt, the blouse also works as a layering piece. The undies and backpack work with every outfit too!
To build onto your capsule wardrobe with these patterns, trying hacking! Read on to see what you can do with just the Trinchera T-Shirt pattern.
Hack How-To: Trinchera T-Shirt 3 Ways!
Pattern hacking is an easy way to transform the style of a pattern without compromising the fit. It’s a great way to reuse and remake a pattern that you love again and again without it looking identical. A T-shirt is the perfect place to start if you’re new to hacking, as it is a simple shape. And you can never have enough T-shirts! Similar to jeans, finding the ideal T-shirt fit can be hard, so when you find the right one, stitch one in every color. But once you’ve sewn the rainbow from the Trinchera T-Shirt pattern, experiment with a little style change. T-shirts can be altered in so many ways, and you can even do so without altering the pattern. Cut the neckband and sleeves in different fabrics, or omit elements like the sleeves. To make it sleeveless, just leave the sleeves off, but remember to plan a finish for the armholes. You can simply flip the edge to the wrong side and topstitch, add a band or leave it raw; be sure to reinforce the side and shoulder seams. If you are itching to get a ruler out and make some real change, try the following simple hacks:
TIE-UP
YOKE
Tied tops are so in style and fit the garment close to the body, making it customizable. Extend the hem of the top about 4" and mark a notch at the center front, 6" above the new hemline (12). On the top front piece, cut from the hem to the notch. You can either leave those edges raw or turn them to the right side and stitch.
This T-shirt is such a blank slate so you can really have fun adding in different panel seams and yokes. Draw lines on the pattern wherever you want a seam (13); just remember to add seam allowance to the lines you drew when cutting. 13
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DRESS Creating a dress from a T-shirt is as simple as drawing a new hemline, extending the side seams and centers as long as you want! If you want it a maxi-dress style, consider adding side-seam slits for ease while walking.
The best part of hacking with a digital pattern is that if you cut it up too much, want to start over or want to expand beyond the pattern, just print off a new one. To see more hacks of the Trinchera T-Shirt (as well as other patterns in this collection), head over to www.sewdaily.com.
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NEW COLLECTION FROM SEW QUICK + EASY! Get Your Patterns & Enter to Win WE’VE GOT ANOTHER FABULOUS PATTERN COLLECTION YOU’LL LOVE! Sew Quick + Easy Vol. 2 is a collection of our favorite beginner-friendly patterns that make learning how to sew easy and fun. Download your 6 FREE PATTERNS and enter for a chance to win the Quantum Stylist™ 9960 Sewing Machine from Singer valued at $599.99!
PRIZE PACK
Enter today to
WIN!
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Size Chart
Refer to the below size chart for all patterns. Pattern templates begin on page 54.
IMPERIAL (IN.)/METRIC (CM.) 0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
Upper Bust
30/ 77
31.5/ 80.75
33/ 84.5
34.5/ 88.5
36/ 92.25
37.5/ 96.25
39/ 100
40.5/ 103.75
42/ 107.75
Full Bust B Cup Size
32/ 82
33.5/ 86
35/ 89.75
36.5/ 93.75
38/ 97.5
39.5/ 101.25
41/ 105.25
42.5/ 109
44/ 112.75
Waist
24/ 61.5
25.5/ 65.5
27/ 69.25
28.5/ 72
30/ 77
31.5/ 80.75
33/ 84.5
34.5/ 88.5
36/ 92.25
Hip
34.5/ 88.5
36/ 92.25
37.5/ 96.25
39/ 100
40.5/ 103.75
42/ 107.75
43.5/ 111.5
45/ 115.5
46.5/ 119.25
Size
18
20
22
24
26
28
30
32
34
Upper Bust
43.5/ 111.5
45/ 115.5
46.5/ 119.25
48/ 123
49.5/ 127
51/ 130.75
52.5/ 134.5
54/ 138.5
55.5/ 142.25
Full Bust B Cup Size
45.5/ 116.75
47/ 120.5
48.5/ 124.25
50/ 128.25
51.5/ 132
53/ 136
54.5/ 139.75
56/ 143.5
57.5/ 147.5
Waist
37.5/ 96.25
39/ 100
40.5/ 103.75
42/ 107.75
43.5/ 111.5
45/ 115.5
46.5/ 119.25
48/ 123
49.5/ 127
48/ 123
49.5/ 127
51/ 130.75
52.5/ 134.5
54/ 138.5
55.5/ 142.25
57/ 146.25
58.5/ 150
60/ 153.75
Size
Hip
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THE PROJECTS 24
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TRINCHERA T-SHIRT BY AMANDA CARESTIO
Sew a boxy tee with a slightly cropped hemline for all your outfit needs. DOWNLOAD
NOW
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COLLINS WRAP CULOTTES BY MEG HEALY, SAMPLE BY BIANCA SPRINGER
Perfect for a vacation or everyday errands, stitch wide-leg wrap culottes featuring a curved slit in the front and finished with either a facing or contrast binding. DOWNLOAD
NOW
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PEAK PANELED UNDIES BY MEG HEALY
Create the perfect scrap-friendly undies for everyday wear.
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THIS SKIRT IS SPONSORED BY SEW VINTAGELY
VINTAGELY TIERED SKIRT BY MEG HEALY, SAMPLE BY BIANCA SPRINGER
Stitch a tiered, A-line wrap skirt with a gathered panel for a perfect feminine, flowy silhouette. DOWNLOAD
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BAILEY DRAWSTRING BACKPACK BY KAREN LEPAGE, SAMPLE BY BIANCA SPRINGER
This adventure-ready backpack closes with a pull of the shoulder straps and stands up on its own for easy access to whatever you pack. Show off your favorite quilting cottons with the three-tone construction. DOWNLOAD
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CLEAR CREEK CAMP SHIRT PATTERN BY KIMBERLY PAYNE, SAMPLE BY BIANCA SPRINGER
Stitch a classic button-up shirt with notched collar and easy fit that’s a timeless staple in any wardrobe. DOWNLOAD
NOW
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Contributors KIMBERLY PAYNE is the sewist, pattern designer and all-around one-woman show at Straight Stitch Designs. When she isn’t sewing, she enjoys spending time with her husband and two kids in Seattle, Washington. straightstitchdesigns.com
AMANDA CARESTIO is the Editor-in-Chief of Sew News and Creative Machine Embroidery magazines and co-host of the Sew & Tell Podcast. Amanda is slowly sewing her way to a 100% memade wardrobe. She loves elastic waist pants and a good basic tee in black . . . with the occasional pop of neutral. When she’s not sewing, reading a book or shopping for fabric or clogs online, Amanda enjoys exploring the Colorado landscape with her husband and three young kids (and dog and cat). You can find her sewn creations at @popofneutral on Instagram.
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MEG HEALY had the urge to sew and create at a young age and eventually led her to study Fashion Design in both London, Canada and NYC. While interning for Vera Wang and BurdaStyle during her studies, she was encouraged to accept a full-time position with BurdaStyle where she served as the online editor and face of BurdaStyle.com for nearly 7 years. Meg now is a content producer for Sew Daily, including Sew News and Creative Machine Embroidery magazines, and continues to develop, film and instruct online sewing videos for BurdaStyle Academy and Sew Daily TV. She shares her sewing journey on the Sew & Tell podcast and through her Instagram @meg.says.sew.
BIANCA SPRINGER is a native of The Bahamas who learned to sew at her mother’s side. She currently lives in Pearland, Texas, with her family who provide endless creative inspiration and motivation for textile play and design. Bianca is a member of Black Makers Matter and is passionate about increasing the acknowledgement and representation of minority creatives in the craft industry. Instagram: @thanksimadethem Etsy: Thanks I Made Them Blog: thanksimadethem.blogspot.com
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STITCH LAB
SEW & TELL
Meg Healy
Amanda Carestio
Kate Zaynard
Looking to hone your sewing skills? Then, you’ll love Stitch Lab! Join your favorite Sew & Tell podcast hosts, Meg Healy, Amanda Carestio, and Kate Zaynard as they walk you through essential sewing techniques. In each episode you’ll explore a new sewing technique, get expert guidance from special guests, and enjoy the hosts you love!
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Learn to Sew at SewDaily! Start your sewing journey with all the best beginner-friendly resources. Our videos, patterns, and sewing techniques are perfect for every new sewist!
Learn to sew at SewDaily.com
Thanks so much for downloading Sew Quick + Easy and starting your sewing journey with us! Join us on SewDaily.com for helpful videos and resources created for modern sewists. As you grow your sewing skills, find pattern hacks, creative techniques and trend info to stay inspired. Listen to a Sew + Tell Podcast episode, join a free sew-along or read about new patterns — we know because we sew!
EDITORIAL EDITOR IN CHIEF
Amanda Carestio
TECHNICAL EDITOR ONLINE EDITOR
Kim Saba
Andrea Lotz
CONTENT PRODUCER
MARKETING & ADVERTISING MARKETING MANAGER, ECOMMERCE
Meg Healy
AD TRAFFICKER
Nathan Ziebarth PHOTOGRAPHER
ADVERTISING MANAGERS
BUSINESS GROUP ART DIRECTOR MEDIA SALES DIRECTOR
Kerry Jackson Julie Macdonald
Molly Stevenson
PHOTO STYLIST HAIR & MAKEUP
Lori Hauser
Mary-Evelyn Dalton, Diane Kocal & Cristy Adamski
ART GRAPHIC DESIGNER & ILLUSTRATOR
Kimberly Greenlee
Emily Smoot
Beauty on Location Studio
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER VP, DIGITAL
Gregory J. Osberg
Melanie Darienzo
VP, STRATEGY
Andrew Flowers
Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. We’ve made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the contents of this publication. However, human errors do occur. If you have questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please email sewnews@emailcustomerservice.com. For advertising information: email Mary-Evelyn Dalton at maryeveholder@comcast.net. For editorial inquiries: write to 4868 Innovation Dr., Fort Collins, CO 80525-5596. Customer Service: For questions about purchases made on the website, please check out our live chat feature or click the Contact Us link located on the website at www.interweave.com/contact-us.