Why We Enjoy Gallup
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By Janice and Tom Forte of Cincinnati, Ohio
Over 10 years ago, when we first visited Gallup on a mission to purchase jewelry and art as a new family endeavor, we had no idea what to expect. And even after many visits to Gallup, we still experience the unexpected. There’s always more to explore in the area. One thing we can look forward to is that the people of Gallup will embrace us with honesty and a sense of pride in who they are and where they live. On our first day in town, we usually “Get Our Kicks on Route 66.” Walking or driving along the 4-lane highway brings back the nostalgia of travel in the southwest when life was a bit simpler and cars were of a style and size that made you feel like you were in your living room watching the world go by. The parade of the white, brown, and grey pickup trucks, either shiny or caked with mud, is a site to see. Many are filled with three or even four generations of Navajo families in town to shop and conduct business. Other pickup trucks contain the Indian Cowboy wearing the classic straw hat and the silver belt buckle, the bigger buckles most likely won at an Indian rodeo held at Red Rock Park. At the El Rancho, it’s always fun to make believe that you might rub shoulders with a movie star. Was that Katherine Hepburn running by Spencer Tracy’s hotel room? Would those famous personalities have eaten a burrito in the cafe? Did they find out the hard way that it’s better to take your antacids if you’re going to partake of a John Wayne Burger. It takes some getting used to the whistles of the mile-long Santa Fe Trains that cut through Gallup. Stopping at the old train station cafe for a cup of joe and a piece of cake will make you believe that you are waiting for a train to take you to Albuquerque or Winslow. While at the Cultural Center, we always take the steps to the second floor to enjoy the Young Girl with the Horse statues created and painted by over 20 of the artists of Art of the People, an amazing collaboration of well-known Navajo artists with a special cause to educate the young. We walk back up to Coal Street to see the remnants of store fronts that thrived during the era of the mining industry and the country’s original lifeline, Route 66. We always stop in the Gallup Service Mart to purchase Indian-patterned fabric to take back home and make something special to remind us of our trip to Gallup. This past visit, we ventured into the architecturally significant McKinley County Courthouse constructed in 1938. We were met by Richard Malone who shared with us the stories behind the tin lantern lighting and the replica sand paintings initiated by the Works Project Administration. Richard encouraged us to venture to the second floor to see the murals in the courtroom. We were overwhelmed by the magnificent paintings telling the story of the people who call the region their homeland. No one would get bored sitting for hours in this story-telling courtroom. Deciding where to eat in Gallup can be tough. And of course, at any of the authentic “New Mexico” restaurants, decisions must be made
— red or green or Christmas style? Red for the husband and green for the wife. But no need to worry, there are enough items on any of the menus that will allow you to make delicious choices. Stepping into any of the traditional Trading Posts is an adventure in art and craftsmanship of the Indian People. It is overwhelming to see so many kachinas, rugs, blankets, pottery, and jewelry. Yes, when we leave, our wallets are a little lighter, but we arrive home with a piece of art work knowing it was made with care and thoughtfulness like no other. A trip out to the Gallup Flea Market is always a treat for the eyes, nose, and taste buds. Driving into the grounds, we saw stacks of hay which told us these people had trucked hay in from the northern states where they had seen rain. $16 per bale is four times what we pay in Ohio, but horses have always been a most important part of the lifestyle of the southwest and they must be fed. We ran into friends from Santo Domingo Pueblo and Winslow who had driven to Gallup that morning to “get some good food.” And we never leave empty handed. What does one eat with Piki Bread? Why do we keep returning to Gallup? Is it the turquoise jewelry, the art galleries, the children’s faces, Indian Ceremonial, Balloon Rallies, rellenos fried in lard, the sunshine on the Red Rocks, the lure of Route 66, the velvet blouses, those belt buckles, the well-worn cowboy boots, fry bread, the softly-spoken Navajo language? Nope, it’s simply the people of Gallup who call it home. September 2018
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