Garden Culture Magazine AU 10

AUSTRALIA

Ultimate Control

Closed Loop Horticulture

KNF Korean Natural Farming HEMP - what’s the story?

AND SO MUCH MORE

DEC 8 & 9

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CONTENT

32

black soldier fly

64

GROW YOUR OWN PROTEIN

54

HEMP

WHAT’S THE STORY?

IN THIS ISSUE OF GARDEN CULTURE:

26

KOREAN NATURAL FARMING

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

9

AIR FILTRATION

12 16

7 Foreword

36 HHI Expo

9 Product Spotlight

38 How It’s Made - Nutrients

12 Air Filtration for Indoor Gardening

46 5 Cool Finds

16 Korean Natural Farming

51 Who’s Growing What Where

26 Master Cho Biography

54 Grow Your Own Protein

26 Hemp: What’s The Story?

60 Silicic Acid: The New Hydroponic Superstar?

31 Shorties

64 Ultimate Control - Closed Loop Horticulture

32 The Black Soldier Fly

76 How Microbes Work in Hydroponics GARDENCULTUREMAGAZINE.COM

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BIODIESELNUTRIENTS

#BIODIESELNUTRIENTS

FOREWORD

FOREWORD

CREDITS

We have all heard the saying, “knowledge is power.”

When it comes to indoor gardening, the power to get the

PRESIDENT Eric Coulombe eric@gardenculturemagazine.com +1-514-233-1539

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WWW.G ARDENC ULTURE MAGAZI NE.C OM

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Happy Growing,

t in Ge

IT A ED

The Hemp Health and Innovation Expo is landing in Melbourne on December 8th and 9th with a host of activities, exhibitors, and speakers all in one place to showcase the many benefits of the cannabis plant. For the very first time, I will be in attendance to check out the developments in the Australian market. Hope to meet you there!

MUCH

RALI

But can mineral-based, hydroponic growers benefit from microbes? Peter Baas, PhD; Colin Bell, PhD from Mammoth Microbes will answer exactly that in, “How Microbes Work in Hydroponics.”

AND SO

AUST

Organic gardening is growing in popularity, but the majority of indoor growers are still using synthetic nutrients. In “How it’s Made - Nutrients” Dr Callie Seaman will explain just that.

Nutrients are only part of the recipe. This industry has so many supplements; knowing which one to use, and when, is key. Silicabased products have become very popular in the past couple of years. In “Silicic Acid: The New Hydroponic Superstar?” Tom Forrest will give you the lowdown on what this will do for your plants and why it should be a part of everyone’s mix.

ntrollture ate Co ing Horticu Ultim Loop al Farm Closed Natur orean story?

KNF K t’s the ha w HEMP MORE

G WIN GRO OF ART THE

In this edition is one of my favourite articles of all time: “Ultimate Control” by Jeff Winterborne & Toby Berryman.

It has everything you need to know about creating a sealed garden, the ultimate in control. Nico Hill begins a new series on Korean Natural Farming (KNF). Before technology caught up with agriculture, all gardening was organic. Different places in the world had different tricks. KNF looks mostly at fermenting plants and other things to create super supplements. This is pretty technical stuff that anyone can do. I know because I tried to make a couple of ferments myself. BEWARE: certain ferments are just for veg or only for flowering, and others can be used throughout both stages. If you use the wrong one at the wrong time it can be catastrophic but can have equally positive results when used properly. Super interesting stuff.

AUST

E TUR CUL

you know about growing.

D E N G A R

most out of your plant’s genetics is often tied to how much

SPECI A L TH A N KS TO: Albert Mondor, Dr Callie Seaman, Jeff Winterborne & Toby Berryman, Kris Whitten, Michiel Panhuysen, Nico Hill, Peter Baas, PhD & Colin Bell, PhD, Rich Hamilton, Tom Forrest, and Adam Tanton.

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E XECU T I V E ED I TO R Celia Sayers celia@gardenculturemagazine.com +1-514-754-1539 ED I TO R Catherine Sherriffs cat@gardenculturemagazine.com DESIGN Job Hugenholtz job@gardenculturemagazine.com D I G I TA L & SO CI A L M A R K E T I N G CO O R D I N ATO R Serena Sayers serena@gardenculturemagazine.com +1-514-754-0062 ADVERTISING ads@gardenculturemagazine.com PUBLISHER 325 Media 44 Hyde Rd., Milles Isles Québec, Canada t. +1 (844) GC GROWS info@gardenculturemagazine.com GardenCultureMagazine.com

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GROWING PRODUCTS

MAMMOTH P

Microbes

The first organically derived microbial inoculant that maximise phosphorus and micronutrient cycling enhancing flower growth, increase yield, and keep the plant healthy. MAMMOTH P supplements contain live microbes that function as self-replicating bioreactors that are 30x better at liberating nutrients than the average microbial community. Like micro bioreactors, the beneficial bacteria continually produce enzymes that function to mobilise nutrients in the growth medium. Extensively tested by Colorado growers, and proven to increase growth by independent labs. MAMMOTH P naturally accelerates the nutrient supply to plants to increase plant health, quality, and yield. Available in 125ml, 250ml, 500ml, 1L & 4L bottles. www.whg.net.au

Left Coast

Geo Planters With traditional plastic pots and wooden planters, the plant’s roots will reach the edge of the container and be forced to circle in search of a friendlier environment. As these roots circle, minimal lateral branching will occur, resulting in poor nutrient uptake and the roots to quickly become root bound.

What makes the GeoPlanter so unique is when the plant roots reach the container’s edge, its root tips are trapped by the porous fabric and meet the air on the outside of the pot, causing them to be naturally pruned.This pruning process forces lateral branching of desired fibrous feeder roots. These fibrous roots are more productive in the uptake of water and nutrient, resulting in a more vigorous and healthy plant that utilizes the entire root zone for optimum plant growth.

s r e s n e p s i D n o r t a P A dispenser system specifically designed for precise usage and storage. Easy-To-Use, pharmaceutically standardised solutions giving you an accurate and clean dispensing of oils, wax and pastes. All Patron products are made of quality polypropylene and stainless steel, food grade and solvent resistant materials. Specially designed nozzle gives you total control dispensing 0.01ml. Other modifications and models available are Apollo Dispenser, Apollo Dabber and Athena 300ml Cartridge Filler. www.cloudcave.com.au

Available in 36” x 16” x 12”, 36” x 16” x 14” & 48” x 48” x 12” sizes from www.whg.net.au

G-Pots & Trellis net

The first dedicated drainage trays designed specifically for Geopots or any brand of air pruning pot (fabric or plastic), G-Pots come in multiple formats, provide exceptional value and offer design features that no other drain tray has.

The unique tapered design allows maximum air exposure to the entire air pruning pot. G-Pots include a flat, dedicated panel that can be drilled to accommodate 13mm, 19mm, and 25mm poly fittings. Available in two sizes, 480mm (up to 38L/10Gal) and 550mm (up to 76L/20Gal), both are 150mm high and provide ample volume for drainage and controlled medium flushing. G-Pots can be used by themselves or with a Pot Grid insert for increased drainage and air exposure.

They can also lock together to form a stable pot stand and drain tray system.

Combined with the interlocking trellis (SCROG) kit, G-Pots provide a complete potting solution. With G-Pots the choice is yours. www.whg.net.au

GA R D EN CU LT U R E M AGA Z I N E.CO M

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SUNSUN Water Submersible Pump s

by SENSEN

The SUNSUN brand has fast become the industry standard in submersible water pumps. The entire range offers high-quality for a good price; ultra-tough and ultra-reliable units that rarely need any form of maintenance whatsoever. Boasting increased head heights and linear pressure when compared to submersible pumps with matching flow rates, SUNSUN is the preferred choice of hydroponic retailers and growers alike. www.whg.net.au

BudWise Plant Feminiser BUDWISE is designed to influence the most impor tant stage of floral development; the initiation and sexual differentiation of flowering buds, and can also increase the size and weight of the flowers via specific hormonal triggers. BudWise kills male flowers shor tly after contact, which stops the further spreading of pollen (causing the seeds to form). Spray directly onto male flowers as soon as they are identified. www.whg.net.au

THC RESKUE

GRODAN Thanks to their revolutionary hydrophilic fibres, Grodan substrate slabs and blocks produced using this technology offers considerable advantages over other propagation substrates. Tried and proven to be the best propagation substrate available. www.whg.net.au

Seed & Clone

First Aid For Plants

A unique formula designed to give your plants new life by treating the cause of chlorosis, nutrient deficiencies and stress illnesses. THC Reskue is specifically designed to tackle nutrient deficiencies that lead to yellow plant syndrome caused by the lack of chlorophyll.THC Reskue will revive your plant from heat and other stress, wilting, drooping, yellowing, starvation, root damage and nutrient deficiency. It can be used for prevention or to cure, as an additive or foliar, in hydroponics, soil or other substrates.

Visit www.thc-australia.com for more info.

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BY KRIS WHITTEN

Air Filtration for indoor gardening

12

AIR FILTRATION

filtration of intake air is highly impor tant

W

hen we think of air filtration in regards to indoor gardening, the first thought that comes to mind is odour control. Discretion is a top priority of gardening indoors and most, if not all, indoor gardeners use activated charcoal filters (carbon filters) to prevent offensive, incriminating

odours emanating from their gardens. CEA (controlled environment agriculture) gardeners will use carbon filters to continuously “scrub” the air in the gardening space to remove odour. Gardens that rely on exchanging the air inside the garden with fresh outside air (air exchange) use carbon filters to remove odours from the air they are exhausting. Air exchange setups require an inlet to allow fresh air to enter the space and replace the air being exhausted. The focus of this ar ticle is the impor tance of filtering “intake air.”

Unfiltered intake inlets allow pests, mould, and mildew spores to freely enter The benefits of filtering intake air are twofold. Indoor gardens that rely on air exchange for climate control are more susceptible to plant pests, and mildew vs CEA rooms. Unfiltered intake inlets allow pests, mould, and mildew spores to freely enter the garden. Once inside, these contaminants quickly become established and wreak havoc on plants. Filtering the intake air is essential if you want to keep your garden pest and disease-free.

The principles of air filtration are quite complex. Entire books have been written about the subject. In layman terms, air filters are devices composed of fibrous materials that remove solid par ticulates such as dust, pollen, mould, and bacteria from the air. They can be composed of many different materials, such as fibreglass, paper, polyester, cotton, carbon, steel, and polyurethane foam. They are typically “pleated” like an accordion to increase overall surface area. Iner tial impaction, interception, sieving, diffusion, electrostatic attraction, and airspeed combined with porosity and thickness of the fibres dictate what size

par ticles are trapped. Porosity and thickness determine the air flow resistance (a.k.a. pressure drop).

You are probably familiar with the term HEPA filter.

HEPA is an acronym that originally stood for highefficiency par ticulate absorber. Also sometimes called high-efficiency par ticulate arresting or high-efficiency par ticulate arrestance. HEPA was a rating created in the 1940’s during the Manhattan Project by the US government for filtering airborne nuclear par ticles as small as .3 micron with 99.97% efficiency. Eventually, HEPA became a generic term for highly efficient filters. Minimum efficiency repor ting value (MERV) is a measurement scale developed in the late 1980s in an attempt to rate air filter effectiveness. Unfor tunately, the testing method used to determine a filters’ MERV rating is flawed, therefore, doesn’t accurately represent filtration ability.

Particulates are measured in microns. The smaller the particle, the smaller its micron rating. For example, a human

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F E AT U R I N G B O OK S I GNI NG BY ED ROS ENT HAL! CO ME AND M EET T HE LEGEND. B IODIESELNU T RI E NTS # BI O DI E S E L NU T R I E NTS

AIR FILTRATION

The benefits of filtering intake air are twofold

hair is 50-150 micron. Particles 2 microns in size and smaller are invisible to the human eye. Mould and mildew spores can range from 1-200 micron. Keeping mould and mildew spores out of our gardens is paramount, so choosing a filter that removes particles 1 micron and higher at as close to 99% as possible is of utmost importance.

Are you confused yet? Officially mind blown? Wondering how the aforementioned information translates in regards to filtering your intake air? We haven’t even gotten into the strengths and weaknesses of the different types of air filters that you can implement in your indoor garden.

There are multiple options available from DIY homebrewed solutions to products readily available at your local hydro store. Let’s discuss the pitfalls of the most common methods indoor gardeners use to filter their intake air. In the spirit of full disclosure, let it be known that I am the inventor and manufacturer of the Dust Shroom reticulated foam intake filter.

Pantyhose?

I confess. I’ve attempted to use pantyhose as an intake filter. It’s almost as effective as using a spaghetti strainer to bail water out of a sinking boat. Or using red Christmas lights to grow indoor tomatoes. This might keep large insects and birds out but isn’t wor th the risk of shoplifting them, the humblest ion of actually purchasing them, or sleeping on the couch when your significant other realises you got them out of her dresser.

HVAC filters It is possible to fabricate an intake filter using readily available home ventilation replacement filters from your

local home improvement store. You would need to design an air tight “box” to hold the filter and duct it into your garden. Depending on the filter’s resistance and the CFM rating of your exhaust fan, you may need to add an intake fan to help overcome the resulting airflow loss. Gardens that rely on air exchange need to be able to replace the cubic volume of air inside the growing space in a minimum of 5 minutes, preferably 1-2 minutes. To calculate this multiply the garden’s width x length x height (in feet) to determine how many cubic feet you have. Fans are rated in cubic feet per minute. Size your fans accordingly, taking into consideration air flow restrictions caused by intake and carbon filters.

Indoor gardening specific filters There are numerous intake filters marketed specifically for indoor gardening. The options range from coneshaped pleated filters made from fabric, coconut husk, or charcoal fibre to inline filters that use replaceable elements, or reticulated foam coated in oil (known as wet filtration). Both pleated cone filters and inline filters with replaceable panel elements are highly restrictive.

Like with DIY HVAC filters, you need to compensate for these restrictive proper ties when selecting fan sizes. Wet reticulated foam filters have minimal air restriction and superior filtration abilities, but require monthly or bi-monthly cleaning and re-oiling to maintain effectiveness.

In conclusion, filtration of intake air is highly impor tant.

You should select an intake filter that removes the highest percentage of par ticles down to 1 micron and offers the least amount of airflow restriction possible. 3

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BY NICO HILL

Korean Nat ural F arming

16

KOREAN NATURAL FARMING

With the current state of world geopolitics being what it is, you’re forgiven for thinking that this is some sort subversive propaganda tool from Kim Jong Un. Don’t worry my sceptical friend, this is no such method of MKUltra-style mental warfare, but more a method of growing that when mastered will have you busting out overly flamboyant, self-righteous dance moves celebrating your own success.

YO U TOTA L LY C A N C O N T R O L T H E N U T R I E N T S TO A V ERY FI N E D E G R EE Growing organically is something that a lot of die-hard growers aspire to. Quite often you see a hydroponic enthusiast hastily making their way down the salty path, with the promise of ‘total nutrient control’ at their disposal. This is, of course, quite true. You totally can control the nutrients to a very fine degree and this will, of course, when used correctly, provide you with a bountiful crop. Being able to ‘see’ and quantify exactly what is happening at any one moment makes for a very appealing prospect to our analytical – right hemisphere dominated brains.

There Is No Spoon There is, however, a lot more to plant growth than just nutrients. Hence, why you see a million different bottled additives adorning hydro shop shelves, essentially all trying to fill the gaps of the base nutrients and at the same time, prise more money from out of your pocket. From enzyme products to amino products to mysteriously alluring ‘boost’ products, everyone wants to find (and then sell you) the next magic product that will double your yield or enhance terpenes, flavours, and quality.

The problem, however, is how disconnected from an actual plant this makes a grower. Blindly following a nutrient chart from week to week, using bottles of nutrients just because it says to do so there on the shiny looking feed schedule. There is another way my friend, and not only will doing it all yourself make you feel totally awesome, but it will also give you a much deeper understanding of plants and the whole natural world in the process. Win-win, basically.

Man vs. Nature As a species, we humans love to think we know best.

Constantly forcing Mother Nature onto her knees and raping the environment, simply as a byproduct of our presence here on Earth. We relentlessly take what we need and do what we want on a global level with little regard to the impact that it has on the land. For example, rather than harnessing the processes nature has perfected over millions of years of evolution, we choose to use our petrochemicalderived, salt-based fertilisers to grow plants.

The father of modern-day fertilisers even admitted himself that the salty path might not the best to walk along. A couple of quotes from the man himself (Justus von Liebig) indicate that thinking we can improve on nature is fundamentally flawed:

KN F Te c h is t h e s h izz le b ra h “When a chemist makes a mistake in creating agricultural fertilisers, don’t be too critical of his errors, because he has had to base his conclusions upon facts which he can’t know from his own experience, but rather, has to take from agricultural texts as true and reliable. After I learned the reason why my fertilisers weren’t effective in the proper way, I was like a person that received a new life.”

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“I had sinned against the wisdom of our creator and received just punishment for it. I wanted to improve his handiwork, and in my blindness, I believed that in this wonderful chain of laws, which ties life to the surface of the earth and always keeps it rejuvenated, there might be a link missing that had to be replaced by me: this weak, powerless nothing.”

Justus von Liebig knew (eventually) that we need to work alongside natural principles and enhance their

effectiveness, rather than try to re-invent the wheel altogether. Modern-day organic growers will quickly attest to this, being usually quite outspoken when it comes to testifying how much better the produce is with an organic crop. Is it really ‘organic’ though?

What does that even mean? Does buying and using bottled nutrients labelled as ‘organic’ even really mean that you are growing truly organically? Well, at the very least, it’s a step in the right direction, I guess.

THE FUNDAMENTALS OF KNF ARE MAINTAINING A HEALTHY LIVING SOIL, WITH A RICH ORGANIC CONTENT, RAMMED WITH A DIVERSE MICROBIOLOGICAL LIFE AND THEN IRRIGATED WITH A RANGE OF INPUTS THAT ARE SOURCED AND MADE FROM LOCAL MATERIALS.

s li k e d n u o it w it s o n , but t k i I h , s Yes h i p py a lly t y o z t a r is c nd it a some , s rk y wo l l man . a e , r l o co

18

KOREAN NATURAL FARMING

Down the Rabbit Hole An all-round lovely chap by the name of Cho HanKyu has been at the forefront of spreading the good word of Korean Natural Farming (KNF) since roughly 1966. Essentially, KNF involves the grower adopting practices that ultimately harness the processes that already exist in the natural world around them.

Enhancing bacterial and fungal life, proliferating the diverse natural life in the soil itself, and using natural inputs that surround you in your immediate environment. Ultimately, working in harmony with nature itself. Yes, I know it sounds like some crazy hippy shit, but it really works, and it is totally cool, man.

Master Cho developed techniques that work alongside the natural world rather than trying to dominate it, and their practice has spread throughout the world.

Chris Trump has been successfully practising KNF techniques at his 800-acre macadamia nut farm in Hawaii for years now and spreading the good word along the way. You can find many informative videos he has produced on the old interweb.

a diverse microbiological life and then irrigated with a range of inputs that are sourced and made from local materials. You continually work to improve the existing natural biological system, creating a powerful and fully functioning soil-food web, rather than continually washing the life out of your soil with salty water. So, what methods are these exactly then?

What does it all actually involve?

Wha Fi Gwan KNF requires you to think a little bit more esoterically about the natural world, so get ready to engage your left brain. There are a few techniques to learn, but probably more taxing than learning how to perform these tasks is simply remembering all the acronyms for them, so be prepared to engage your right brain as well. The actual methods to create these will be fully detailed in future KNF episodes (so keep your eyes peeled), but for now the following is a broad summary of what KNF involves.

The fundamentals of KNF are maintaining a healthy living soil, with a rich organic content, rammed with

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KOREAN NATURAL FARMING

CONTROL: ENVIRONMENT I GARDEN CULTURE

IMO 1-5 (Indigenous Microorganisms) It is a lengthy process, but also an extremely rewarding one. By the time you make it to IMO 5, you will end up with an extremely active potting soil that is megarich in organic nutrients. The words ‘super soil’ don’t do it justice. Given half the chance (and necessary anthropomorphic motor functions), it would laugh in the face of inferior, lifeless, store-bought potting compost.

IMO is fundamentally the backbone of practising KNF and probably the most fun to do! This is the process of going out into the field and collecting indigenous microorganisms. Make sure you are highly selective of the area you collect from. Ultimately, you are aiming to collect the most diverse and most beneficial microorganisms possible. The various stages of IMO 1-5 represent different stages of collecting, storing, and then propagating cultures of bacteria and/or fungi to introduce into your substrate and/or soil.

• • •

cred it: blog .bola ndbo l.com

•

OHN is a liquid root-drench that has highly antipathogenic quality. It works to prevent diseasecausing fungi and helps to improve the overall vitality of your plant. It is probably the most complicated aspect of KFN to produce, but also the most fun!

The aim of the game here is to make an alcoholic tincture from a variety of fermented herbs. Typically, it is a five-part recipe including angelica, garlic, ginger, cinnamon, and liquorice root. Like a fine wine, it matures and becomes more potent with age.

IMO 1 Collecting beneficial microbes out in the field.

IMO 2 Preparing the microbes for storage.

IMO 3 Inoculating a suitable (carbon-based) carrier.

IMO 4 Preparing a usable and active substrate – usually indigenous soil.

IMO 5 Incorporating nitrogen-rich fertiliser material, a suitable final compost mix.

s.ne t cre dit: ww w.o rga nicf act

•

OHN (Oriental Herbal Nutrient)

MINT IS BEST IN POTS

nts Oriental Herbal Nutrient ingredie

Indigenous Micro Organisms

FPJ/FFJ (Fermented Plant/Fruit juice)

I MO is fundamentally t he backbone of prac t ising K NF

Possibly the easiest, quickest, and most fun aspect of KFN practices. It involves sourcing plant material, combining it with dark brown sugar, and waiting a week or so to ferment out all the plant loveliness trapped inside. Your final ferment will have all the good stuff present: nutrients, hormones, proteins, aminos, and enzymes. The type of contents of the ferment depends greatly on the material you source.

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KOREAN NATURAL FARMING

They only take a week or so to make, and the possibilities are almost endless. One of the most effective ferments, is that of the plant itself you are going to use the ferment on. For example, ferment a load of rosebuds and use the juice as part of an early flower feed for next year’s rose crop.

credit: confessionsfromthesoi

Fermented Plant Juice

LAB (Lactic Acid Bacteria) LAB refers to a large group of bacteria that produce lactic acid as a by-product of their digestive system.

LAB are probiotic bacteria beneficial for many types of life. Among other things, applying LAB cultures to your soils can help to accelerate organic matter decomposition, enhancing the release of plant nutrients for absorption. Possibly the most fun to make and simple too, using rice-washed water and some milk; you capture LAB from the environment and culture it in the end product. For all you food buffs out there, it’s also the first step of the process to making cheese.

FAA (Fish Amino Acids) Making your own fish fertiliser can get a bit smelly, but it offers tantalising benefits for Natural Farming. It is an amazing food source for fungi especially, helping to boost fungal growth. The amino acids found in FAA (as well as performing their own functions) also contain forms of nutritional elements for the plant, like nitrogen. Despite the initial smell, when fermentation is complete it is almost pleasant to the nose, and the whole process is possibly the most fun of all to do!

Fermenting fish, the traditional Korean way

Water-Soluble Organic Nutrients Resembling some sort of gardening alchemy, you are creating a solution that offers immediately available, soluble nutrients for a quick nutritional boost, while still being derived from completely natural and organic processes. Calcium, phosphorus, potassium, etc. can all be successfully extracted into a solution from sources such as bones or crustacean shells, and applied to your plants at key periods in their life, when you know they need that little extra hit.

More Than a Summary of Its Parts This is by no means a definitive list of all there is to KNF. Something as awesome as KNF is hard to confine to a tight word count. Hopefully, you have at least gained a broad understanding of the fundamental concepts it involves, and become inspired enough to look into it all a bit more. There is a lot to KNF; it is a very rewarding process that makes you look at nature in an entirely different way. Over the next few issues we will go into each aspect of KNF in a whole lot more detail, but for now, just make sure you stock up on brown sugar, you’ll need it. 3 Nico Hill - Hydro Nerd at InfiniteMonkey.com Nico has been a keen gardener for many moons. Bitten by the hydroponic bug back in 1998, and hasn’t looked back since!

After many years as a hobby, Nico’s career in Hydroponics had its start working for Aquaculture in Sheffield, the UK’s largest and most forward-thinking grow shops of the time. He was then hired by Hydromag, responsible for the hydroponic content. From there, he has worked with CANNA, as editor of CANNAtalk, author of the research articles, and delivering seminars throughout the UK to grow shops on the finer details of cultivating in a hydroponic environment.

Nico is now writing for companies in the hydroponic industry.

Bio

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BIO MASTER CHO

BY NICO HILL

Korean Nat ural F arming

Master Cho K

orean Natural Farming (KNF) is a fairly new movement in the growing scene. It has quickly built up a draft of followers all keen to capitalise on the natural world around them and enhance the soil food web already present in their soil. Every giant redwood starts off as a tiny seed, and KNF is possibly the best representation

of this analogy in the current agricultural climate.

It all star ted with a thought from the brain of a guy called Cho Han-Kyu, or Master Cho as he is most commonly known. He was born in the year 1935 in Suwon, South Korea. Up to the age of 29, he worked on his family’s farm, from which he then went to study natural farming techniques in Japan, under the tutelage of three teachers: Miyozo Yamagashi, Kinshi Shibata, and Yasushi Oinoue.

When he returned to South Korea, Master Cho combined his learnings in Japan with more traditional Korean techniques of farming, par ticularly fermentation (think kimchi, but for plants). His ideas were first put into practice in 1966 when he set up the ‘Labour Saving Abundant Harvesting Study Group.’ After years of experience and a few shenanigans along the way, he set up Natural Farming Life School and Research Farm in 1995. The school has since trained over 18,000 people in the finer ar ts of KNF. Farmers in Hawaii, surprisingly, were some of the quickest to pick up the idea and run with it.

Even to this very day, Master Cho has been vital in spreading and tutoring the techniques involved in KNF, and it has slowly and steadily been gaining credibility as a viable alternative to intensive agricultural practices, which work with forces of nature rather than against it. It has proved to be one of the most successful sets of techniques that a gardener can enjoy. Learn KNF techniques in the ar ticle Indigenous Microorganisms. 3

M A ST ER C H O WA S I N C A R C ER AT ED A F E W T I M E S B Y H I S G O V E R N M E N T, U N D E R PR ESSU R E FR O M B I G AG R I CU LT U R A L CO M PA N I ES W H O D I D N OT SEE E Y E TO EYE WITH HIS TEACHINGS

Referring to the events up to 1995 as ‘shenanigans’ is somewhat underplaying things to be completely honest. Master Cho was incarcerated a few times by his government, under pressure from big agricultural companies who did not see eye to eye with his teachings.

Considering that most of his teachings meant that a farmer could rely on the natural world around them, and not what they bought off a shelf, it is no wonder why. These setbacks did not put him off, however, and he continued his work despite their best effor ts to silence him.

GARDENCULTUREMAGAZINE.COM

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BY RICH HAMILTON

Hemp Cannabis is possibly one of the oldest domesticated crops and early civilisations used it just as much for industrial purposes as they did for medicinal uses

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HEMP

I

f you have heard of marijuana then you have heard of hemp, but do you know the difference? I didn’t. I was looking at purchasing some CBD oil and noticed that I could also buy hemp oil. It struck me that items made with hemp surround us all the time, such as clothing, military grade fabrics, ointments and other “well being” and sustainable products, and yet

I’ve never given much thought as to what makes hemp and marijuana different, or, for that matter, what makes them similar.

The word cannabis usually conjures up images of smoking and the knock-on effects, while its use as an industrial tool is often overlooked. Cannabis is possibly one of the oldest domesticated crops and early civilisations used it just as much for industrial purposes as they did for medicinal uses. So, what defines hemp from its more taboo cousin?

Hemp is big business: The Hemp Business Journal estimates worldwide CBD consumer sales will hit the $2.1 billion mark by 2020, with $450 million worth coming from hemp-based sources. France, China, and Chile are some of the world’s largest hemp producers, but more than 30 countries grow it worldwide. New discoveries and uses are being found for it all the time, such as taking the fibres to create forms of renewable plastic perfect for the car parts industry. In recent years, a group of researchers at the University of Alberta found a way to use hemp material within a supercapacitor, (a battery which charges up almost instantly and doesn’t degrade) making the idea of creating cheap, fast-charging batteries from hemp a distinct possibility.

The differences between hemp and marijuana seem to depend on whether you are looking at it from legal or scientific perspectives. In today’s world, with the relaxing of cannabis laws ongoing around the world, this simply won’t do. Surely, clear definitions need to exist, be proven and accepted across the board if we are to create justified and responsible laws.

lower levels of THC and higher levels of CBD. That’s the opposite to marijuana, which contains higher levels of THC and lower levels of CBD. Primarily, hemp plants are male with no flowering buds. They typically grow outdoors and become tall very quickly, ensuring a bigger yield and allowing plants to grow long, strong stalks, an essential characteristic needed to create hemp fibres.

In contrast, cannabis bred selectively for medicinal and recreational use (marijuana) is typically grown indoors where the grower can pay more attention to individual plants and control every factor affecting growth and development, such as food, light, temperature, and even CO2 and oxygen levels. The final product delivers higher levels of THC and the desired effect when ingested via smoking or eating. Controlled growing environments have led to marijuana being stronger than ever before.

Unlike when cannabis is left to grow naturally, indoor growers can manipulate the strength and potency of plants by mixing strains together to create new hybrids of female flowering plants with large, resin-filled glands.

Marijuana has higher levels of THC than those found in hemp, ranging on average between 5-20%.

The differences between hemp and marijuana seem clear.

However, the international standard that has become accepted around the world and written into legislative law to identify and control the growing and distribution of hemp uses an idea arrived at arbitrarily by a Canadian scientist.

Firstly, and most basically, hemp and marijuana are both derived from the same genus and species of the Cannabis sativa plant. From a scientific point of view, the difference between the two lies in the purpose that the strain of cannabis is bred for the genetic parentage and the cultivation method.

Traditionally, years of selective and manipulative breeding with plants showing similar characteristics to those desired in hemp has produced tall, tough cannabis strains containing

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HEMP

credit: https://agbio.usask.ca

Dr Ernest Small received a doctorate in plant evolution from the University of California in 1969 and has long been seen as a botanical expert, acting as an advisor to government and an expert witness in court. In 1979, he wrote a book called The Species Problem in Cannabis that would go on to become very influential. In the book, Small decided on a benchmark to define hemp as a sifted batch of cannabis flowers that contained a THC level of 0.3% or less. In direct contrast to this statement, however, he did admit that many strains of cannabis that he experimented with for fibre and oil did actually have higher levels of THC than 0.3%! It would seem, therefore, that Dr Ernest Small his decision was not based on which strains of cannabis held the most value to agriculture and neither was it based upon the THC level required to induce psychoactivity.

The differences between hemp and marijuana seem to depend on whether you are looking at it from legal or scientific perspectives

Is it justified, then? Are we missing out on better hemp production because we are ignoring strains that offer what we need, but may be slightly too high in THC levels?

What’s one man’s opinion though? Well, this opinion was an important one, as Small’s definition was written into US law for regulating the sale of foreign cultivated hemp products.

His standard is also used worldwide. Canada uses the 0.3% rule, and the EU went even lower, using 0.2%.

In 2001, the US tried to go even further when the DEA attempted to ban all products sourced from hemp.

Unsuccessful as this was, they did manage to classify any product containing any level of THC as illegal, excluding hemp products that contained absolutely no THC, such as fibres from cannabis stalks, oils, or cake made from the leaves, or products that originate from sterilised cannabis seeds. All other parts of the Cannabis sativa plant are identified as marijuana under current US law. With the passing of the Farm Bill in 2014, hemp can now be planted on US soil, however, it is a pilot scheme for research only and at a federal level, the commercial growing of hemp remains illegal.

Hemp products including health supplements, beauty products, paper, clothing, and building materials are legal to purchase in all 50 US states. And yet, nearly all hemp used has to be imported! There are movements that are trying to have the restrictions on hemp lifted, but at present, any bid to change the legal status remains stagnant.

In our perusal of new, sustainable products to assist in our everyday lives, it seems as though the value of hemp could have great potential. But the regulations placed upon it make it difficult to fully explore. Research into harnessing its full benefits is too restricted and this is where, as many differences as there are, these two derivatives from the same Cannabis sativa plant could not be more similar.

Sources: Forbes Magazine: bit.ly/2zEbC3N

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Seaweed’s Superfood Status

I

t’s being touted as a ‘superfood’, and there’s no wonder ; seaweed is not only good for our bodies, it’s good for the environment too! It can be used in just about anything, from salads and soups to sushi and smoothies.

Incorporating seaweed into your diet provides a plethora of health benefits, including a reduced risk of hear t

disease and diabetes, better thyroid function, and higher levels of good bacteria to nourish your gut. Antioxidantrich and high in vitamins and minerals, ‘sea vegetables’ are said to also lead to weight loss.

A report by Allied Market Research finds the global seaweed market could be worth $9 billion by 2024! It’s already wildly popular in Asia-Pacific countries, but Westerners have been slower to add it to their grocery carts. That will likely have to change; with the UN pegging the world population at 10 billion by 2050, the demand for food and pressure on the land will be overwhelming. Seaweed is incredibly fast-growing, with some varieties gaining 24 in. (61 cm) per day - much faster than traditional crops grown on land. Scientists and environmentalists say it doesn’t need fertiliser or freshwater to grow, and that it also drinks up carbon dioxide from the atmosphere while also counterbalancing ocean acidification.

Seaweed: a ‘superfood’, indeed.

Sources: Huffington Post: bit.ly/huffingtonpost-seaweed Healthline.com: bit.ly/healthline-seaweedbenefits The Diving Almanac: bit.ly/2NcZJu7

Festive Poinsettias With a bright red, showy display that blooms every December, it’s no wonder poinsettias are used to spread cheer during the holiday season. Native to Mexico and commonly referred to as the “Flower of the Holy Night”, the poinsettia has been used to decorate churches there for many centuries. Its sap was also historically used by the Aztecs for medicinal purposes, such as controlling fevers.

Interestingly enough, what most people believe to be the plant’s flowers are actually red-coloured bracts or modified leaves; the actual flowers are the tiny yellow buds resembling stamens. Despite its reputation for being poisonous, it actually isn’t. It can, however, upset the stomachs of the pets or children who eat them, so be sure to keep them in a safe spot.

Although traditionally red, there are actually more than 100 varieties of poinsettias available today that range in colour from white, pink, burgundy, marbled and speckled. Keep these beauties blooming beyond

the Christmas season by placing in a well-lit room with temperatures of 15°C-20°C. If it gets too hot or too cold, the leaves will begin to wilt, and then it’s too late. It’s also important to keep the soil moist, never soggy.

And if you don’t have enough to celebrate already in December, add this to your calendars: International Poinsettia Day is December 12th. Happy Holidays!

Sources: University of Illinois: bit.ly/2N7qFHV Floral Daily: bit.ly/2OTBY81 University of Vermont: bit.ly/2QeWYX3 ScienceDirect: bit.ly/2DAuJAF

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BY MICHIEL PANHUYSEN

Black Soldier Flies At Work

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BLACK SOLDIER FLY

Perfect composters, a rich source of calcium and proteins, caretakers of your garbage: the black soldier flies!

Jesse Dodd, organic grower and compost specialist from Humboldt, California, taught us a lot about the different techniques of compost making. Dodd has always been interested in the wide range of possibilities nature offers us growers. He pre-amends his soil with special microorganisms and different kinds of compost and compost teas. It’s mind blowing to talk with him about the gifts nearby nature gives us. Like the EM bacteria (used to make Bokashi) or the straw and wood chips mulch inoculated with the spawn of King Stropharia, for example. This edible mushroom helps to transform organic matter into nutrients and destroys the dangerous E.coli bacteria. Jesse likes the ‘double function’ of some techniques he uses in composting (like serving a mushroom spaghetti prepared with the mushrooms he uses to decompose organic matter).

They process all organic kitchen waste, including meat and dairy products, without smell There are many books written about compost. It is so much more than dead leaves on a compost pile in a forgotten part of your grandfather’s backyard. Compost is a world of its own. Say the magic word ‘vermicompost’ and Dodd will tell you about his latest worm compost bin. In his philosophy, you can make compost nearly everywhere, using locally available materials. You do not need an exotic starter or special palm tree ashes to make compost. Everywhere that people live and prepare food, they have vermicompost ‘ingredients’ available. And it’s not hard to find space for tiny compost factories. Even indoors or on your balcony, there are some compost options. Just make a bin from available materials and fill them with kitchen leftovers and some worms. From the many stories Dodd told me about composting, there is one I will never forget.

One summer, Dodd was working on a blueberry farm a few hours drive from his home, somewhere in California. He stayed several days a week at the farm. As usual in this kind of situation, he built a simple vermicompost bin from a few old boards and set it up outside the house he was sharing with some colleagues. To get it going, he put in some cow manure that he got from a neighbour with bits and pieces from the garden, then added a

few red wigglers from another compost pile nearby. Finally, he tossed in a bunch of kitchen scraps and covered the whole thing with a piece of cardboard.

Both indoors and outdoors, vermicompost makes it possible to transform kitchen and garden waste into very nutritional plant fertiliser with minimal fuss. There was no organized garbage collection where they were staying , so re-using the organic part of their waste was also a way to minimize the garbage.

The compost worms started their jobs. The compost process worked well, but the bin was a bit small to hold all the kitchen leftovers produced by the four workers that shared the house. Captivated by the ‘worms at work’, Dodd inspected their progress every day. One day he saw that someone had tossed a piece of meat into the bin, and he worried that it would attract flies and maggots. In normal compost bins it is not advisable to add meat. And for a good reason, Dodd first concluded, when he discovered that flies settled on the meat. Jesse was upset. But he decided to leave it that way and study what would happen over the next few days. Two days later he saw that some grubs emerged on the meat. But looking closer he realised that they were not the basic housefly maggots.

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630w DE Ceramic Metal Halide Kit

BLACK SOLDIER FLY

They produce compost way quicker than worms

Dodd was curious. He videoed the flies and grubs with his telephone and compared the images with the ones he found on internet of an insect that intrigued him for years: the black soldier fly (Hermetia illucens)! He read about this very useful compost specialist years before, but never saw one, living in the relatively cool coastal part of Northern California.

When he went back to watch the grubs, he saw that there certainly was an adult black soldier fly perched on the side of the compost bin. He was thrilled.

The black soldier fly larvae are great compost makers.

They process all organic kitchen waste, including meat and dairy products, without smell. Theses insects only eat when they are larvae. The flies do not eat and die within some weeks.

Not only is the black soldier fly a perfect compost maker, it also has some other important ‘skills’: the larvae are very rich in protein and calcium. They are an excellent food source for poultry, fish, reptiles, and amphibians. In The Netherlands, a dog food producer is doing experiments with mixing the larvae into dog food, to lower the use of meat. In theory, the black soldier fly larvae are a good source for meat substitute products, but it will take some years to take away human resistance against eating insects.

Specialists know that black soldier fly grubs are amazing compost makers. They produce compost way quicker than worms, and they also convert meat into compost. So, from that day on, the compost bin was also ‘fed’ meat leftovers.

Black soldier flies prefer warmer areas. The northern parts The black soldier fly grubs were able to process the orof Europe and the United States are too cold for them. ganic waste better than the worms, even when the waste This is likely one reason that the black soldier fly is still not increased in quantity. Over the next few days, the worms a widely recognized composter and protein source. But and larvae worked together. Compost worms do a great slowly, this insect is getting more famous. Austrian Dejob with plant materials rich in cellulose, and the black signer Katharina Unger even developed Farm 432[1], a tool soldier fly larvae do their best work while breaking down to breed black soldier flies in normal people’s kitchens. I nutrition-rich waste, such as meat and dairy products. But wonder if restaurants will serve BSF-burgers within a few as more time passed, Dodd observed that the larvae began years… 3 dominating. The compost started to heat up, the worms headed for a safer place, a cooler spot deeper down in the ground. Also, the compost worms fed on enzyme-rich leachate from the black This article is based on information in The Organic Grow book, written soldier fly larvae, but after several days that

by Michiel Panhuysen and Karel Schelfhout. The Organic Grow book became too acidic for them. The worms prois also available in French (Le Bio Grow Book) and German (Das Bio gressively disappeared, and the larvae entirely Grow-Buch), and now in Spanish (El Bio Grow Book). Karel Schelfhout took over the compost bin. Dodd found the is an old-school breeder. Michiel Panhuysen is a journalist, specialized process he witnessed over two weeks fasciin growing issues and medical marihuana. His articles are published in nating.

English, Spanish, and Dutch.

[1] www.http://bit.ly/farm-432 GARDENCULTUREMAGAZINE.COM

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9 8 r ED Cembe n o i t a v o n n I & h t l a e H p He m ntion e v n o C ne e M e l b o uhri b i t i o n C e n t r & Ex

AUSTRALIA’S LARGEST INDOOR HEMP AND CANNABIS EVENT IS HEADING BACK TO MELBOURNE Australia’s largest indoor hemp and cannabis expo Hemp, Health & Innovation (HHI) is heading back to the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre Saturday, Dec 8 and Sunday, Dec 9. With over 20,000 attendees across the last three years, HHI Expo is the only event in Australia for anyone seeking information and awareness around all the crucial benefits that the hemp and cannabis plant offers both now and into the future.

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HHI expo

HEMP HEALTH & INNOVATION

HHI Expo is Melbourne’s opportunity to taste, touch, feel and experience it all; in a safe, family-friendly environment. Experiential and educational, there are interactive activities for all ages, as well as local and international exhibitors and the 2018 Australian Cannabis & Hemp Symposium. HHI workshops, displays, and exhibitors showcase everything from hemp foods, beverages, clothing, oils and tinctures, extraction equipment, vapes, art, building material, beauty products, health products, bedding, gardening, and hydroponic equipment and much much more.

Headed by keynote speaker Ed Rosenthal, the 2018 Australian Cannabis & Hemp Symposium will feature expert local and international speakers discussing everything medicinal cannabis and industrial hemp, bringing to Melbourne the world’s leading medical professionals, academics, research associates, pharmacists, activists and entrepreneurs for conversations and Q&A sessions.

This year’s symposium will also feature presentations from Australian Cannabis Access Clinics. Keep an eye on the ever-expanding speaker list and grab your tickets at hhiexpo.com.au.

Once again, HHI Expo is proud to offer free entry to all Australian armed forces veterans, simply present your DVA, retired ID card or companion card upon entry.

Hemp Health and Innovation Expo (Melbourne) Melbourne Convention & Exhibition Centre • •

Follow HHI on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter with #HHIExpo for all news, info and special announcements.

Saturday 8 December 2018 - 9.30am – 6.30pm Sunday 9 December 2018 - 10.00am - 4.00pm

TIX: HHIEXPO.COM.AU

37

BY DR CALLIE SEAMAN

how it’s made

Nutrients

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HOW IT’S MADE: NUTRIENTS

The shelves of the local hydro store are full of different bottles filled with all the key elements required for healthy and productive growth of your plants, the liquids differing in viscosity, colour, odour, and transparency. So, why are all these solutions so different?

The answer seems obvious… because they stimulate different things in your plants. Well, yes, but it is not that simple. Let’s first take a look at the types of solution that are out there on the shelves.

T here a re t wo b a sic c at egorie s of h y drop onic nu t rien t s a nd a ddi t i v e s; Nu t rien t s a nd Bio s t imul a n t s There’s no such thing as 100% pure!

There are two basic categories of hydroponic nutrients and additives; Nutrients and Biostimulants. Nutrients are all of those products with a nutritional content for the plant. This includes all base nutrients, but also covers some additives, such as PK. There are plenty of products out there that are combinations of both nutrient and biostimulant, but for the purposes of this article we’re going to broadly split them along these lines.

Nutr ients Base nutrients contain the key elements needed for growth - nitrogen (N), potassium (K), phosphorus (P), calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), sulphur (S), iron (Fe), copper (Cu), zinc (Zn), and all the other microelements. It’s essential that your choice of products covers the plant’s basic requirements across all these elements. The availability and ratios between these elements can have a significant steering effect on your plants – this is why we have grow and bloom formulations to feed the plant’s requirements at certain stages of growth, and why we have nutrient additives (such as PK products) that are often used very precisely at certain key stages of growth.

Pur it y Base nutrients and nutrient-based additives will often just contain mineral salts, such as potassium nitrate, mono potassium phosphate, and magnesium sulphate. These types of salts contain no carbon, referred to as inorganic compounds, and are usually derived from rocks mined from deposits hundreds and thousands years old. This raw rock is often laced with organic matter and other elements which can contain toxins, so before being used, they need to go through a purification process.

After extraction from the earth, the rock is often treated with heat, acids, or alkaline solution to purify the rock down to the elements of interests. The depth of this process dictates the chemical’s purity. This is also referred to as the grade of the chemical and allows categorising for various purposes. Low purity chemicals are often used for industrial applications, such as lubricants, cleaners, and building material.

One of the lowest grades, funny enough, is fertilizer grade. This grade of salt is usually what the agriculture sector uses, applying it to fields in huge quantities. For farmers, there isn’t really much requirement for high purity chemicals, so the level of refinement for this grade is relatively low – mainly focussing on removing and/or reducing heavy metal content, which can end up in our food chain if supplied to food crops. This grade can also be further split into two sub-grades; agricultural and horticultural. Agricultural grade is usually coarser and the particles larger in size. Horticultural grade is usually smaller in particle size and dissolves more readily in water, often containing microelements (Fe, Zn, Cu, etc.) as opposed to just macroelements (K, N, and P). The term “fertilizer grade” is actually more of a legal guarantee in reference to the available plant nutrients -the NPK ratios stated on the products.

The next grade up is known as technical grade. This grade is generally used for industrial application, where higher quality chemicals will improve performance. In industry, this tends to apply to chemicals that are toxic to humans, but have a high purity, and are not intended for human consumption.

Some of the higher grades are fit for human consumption if correctly certified and safe to use in food, pharmaceuticals, GARDENCULTUREMAGAZINE.COM

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HOW IT’S MADE: NUTRIENTS

The microbial content must fall below a strict level to earn food grade class and cosmetics. In the hydro world, most higher quality nutrient products use this grade of minerals, as its relatively high purity of 80-99% results in a quality end product.

The next purity step up, lab grade chemicals, are 9099% pure and designed for use in schools, universities, and laboratories. These are higher priced than technical grade and not very likely used in making any hydro industry products.

Right at the top of the tree are analytical grade chemicals, which are 99.9999% pure - there’s no such thing as 100% pure! These are only used in very small quantities for analysis of samples with very tiny amounts of the chemical of interest. The cost of these chemicals is astronomical due to the levels of purification required, and therefore, simply not in use in the hydroponic nutrient world.

Hang on – what about pharmaceutical grade?

This falls into the food grade categories, which means that it is fit for human consumption. In the US, chemicals rated as food grade split into 3 categories: feed grade, human grade, and pharmaceutical. These types of products must have a minimum of 90% purity and be produced in sanitary conditions, ensuring they are not going to cause illness in humans. The microbial content must fall below a strict level to earn food grade class and certification.

Human grade and feed grade must meet FDA (Food and Drug Administration) requirements, however, the human grade must also pass USDA inspection. Now, phar-

maceutical grade in this categorisation means a chemical that is 99% pure, has virtually no microbial content, and this purity level must also be verified by an independent laboratory that has no link with the manufacturer. The production facility and manufacturing process must also reach a particular standard and be approved by regulatory bodies, such as the United States Pharmacopeia (USP), British Pharmacopoeia (BP), European Pharmacopoeia (EP), or the Japanese Pharmacopeia (JP).

Now, as you can imagine, taking a product from 90% purity to 99% purity is very costly, and quite often unnecessary. All of this approval from regulatory bodies also increases the cost of pharmaceutical grade chemical production. One kilogram of pharmaceutical grade chemical can therefore cost hundreds of pounds, whereas the same thing at technical grade might cost hundreds of pounds per tonne and still be fit for the intended purpose. In short, using only certified pharmaceutical minerals in hydro feed is not economically possible.

A lot of mystery and many myths surround hydroponic nutrient production, and most of the time liquid fertilizers start life as a solid in the form of a powder. To produce large volumes of concentrated base feed solutions, it requires dissolving up to 500 kg of powdered ingredients per 1000 litres of pure, filtered, sterile water. So, ask yourself this question - if you are producing thousands of litres of solution, is it cost effective to use 99% pure “pharmaceutical grade” chemicals when they offer no real benefit? For some of the chemicals, where you’re only using minute quantities, yes, but for all the chemicals to be officially pharmaceutical grade makes nutrient production cost prohibitive.

Grade

Purity Range

Application

Fertilizer

Undefined

Farmers, agriculture.

Technical

80-99%

Industrial, horticulture

Laboratory

90-99%

Schools and educational facilities

Food Grade

90-99%

Food, medicine, human consumption. Approved by governing body.

•

Feed Grade

90%

Livestock and animal feed

•

Human Grade

90%

Food production

•

Pharmaceutical grade

99%

Medicine

100.00%

Research and high-quality analysis

Analytical

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HOW IT’S MADE: NUTRIENTS

S y n t he t i c b i o s t imul a n t s a l s o e x i s t, p r o d u c ed in t he l a b or at ory v i a v ery c omp l ic at ed a nd c o s t ly p roce s se s

Bios timulants Biostimulants contain compounds known biostimulant products stable in their conbiostimulants as active ingredients, that stimulate the centrated form without having to resort to are like the plant and its metabolic pathways to help the more harsh chemistry of VOCs. improve a plant’s productivity and insupplements or crease its yields. Basically, the nutrients drugs which are the plants’ food and the biostimulants So what’s bes t to give to my help the plant are like the supplements or drugs which plants? perform better help the plant perform better, but are not The million dollar question! The short anessential for growth. In the hydro world, swer is that there is no right answer to this. there are countless biostimulants includNutrient manufacturers around the world have different ed in all kinds of products, from rooting compounds to research bases and different methodologies. No two nutribloom boosters. They really are everywhere, and it’s iments or biostimulants are the same, and it really does come portant that as growers we all understand a little about down to what works best for you. what these compounds are and how they work.

There are some highly effective active ingredients, such as Triacontanol, we can naturally derive from plants, and other compounds from seaweed extracts. Synthetic biostimulants also exist, produced in the laboratory via very complicated and costly processes. Both natural and synthetic active compounds quite often are not freely soluble in water and do not dissolve readily. The reasons for this vary, from them being hydrophobic (water-hating) to being a lipid or fatty acid (fatty type compound), having low solubility, the pH of the solution – but it is basically down to the properties of the compound. I shall not bore you with the in-depth chemistry lecture on why something is soluble in water, but if you are really interested, any A-level chemistry book can assist with your quest for this knowledge!

In order to make some of these compounds dissolve, solvents such as methanol or acetone could be used. These are often referred to as volatile organic compounds (VOC) and can cause the solution to become flammable, which is never a good thing. VOCs can also be toxic to plants and damaging to the environment. In recent years, there has been a move to more green chemistry and producing emulsions and suspensions with the aid of substances such as emulsifiers, surfactants, and adjuvants.

Without giving away all of our secrets, this is how better nutrient brands manage to keep consistent and uniform

What I would say is beware of marketing hype! Cynically calling something pharmaceutical grade to appeal to a subset of customers doesn’t sit very well with me. It implies an advantage that simply will not exist. Similarly, when it comes to biostimulants, beware of what’s actually in the bottle. Naturally-derived biostimulants are actually refined compounds from nature’s own pharmacy and have predictable and safe results. Synthetic compounds can have huge effects on plants, but have often been designed in a lab to have a specific effect on certain plants – often not those meant for human consumption, such as cut flowers or ornamentals. You need be sure that what you are using on your plant will have no effect on crop safety, and there are many compounds out there that you wouldn’t want anywhere near your plants. Just be careful, do your research, buy from reputable manufacturers, and you won’t go far wrong! 3

BIO Dr Callie Seaman is a plant obsessed Formulation Chemist at AquaLabs – the company behind SHOGUN Fertilisers and the Silver Bullet plant health range. She has been in the hydro industry for 15 years in research development and manufacturing and had previously worked on the VitaLink range. She has a PhD in fertiliser chemistry and a BSc (HONS) in Biomedical sciences and loves nothing more than applying this knowledge to pushing the boundaries of nutrient performance.

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Pret t y Plan t P rotecto rs

Spare yourself (and your neighbours) the embarrassing wrestling match with the garden hose.

These beautiful ground hose guides are the perfect way to prevent kinks while also protecting your plants from being crushed by the hose when watering. By Orbit, these guides come in a convenient two-pack and the two-legged design makes them extra sturdy for bigger hoses.

They’re also weather-proof, meaning they won’t rust in the rain. When you’re not watering your gardens simply leave them in the ground and let them act as decorative borders for your beds.

Watering large garden spaces doesn’t have to be frustrating! Ships across Australia from Amazon: amzn.to/2CiAr89

4

Spike I t

The grass is always greener on the other side of the fence… or is it? Get a more beautiful, healthierlooking lawn without breaking your back or the bank with these lawn aerator spike sandals. The concept is easy; slide the sandals over your shoes and adjust the straps and metallic buckles for a perfect fit.The bottom of each sandal is equipped with several 5cm spikes, so as you walk around with a coffee or mow the lawn, you’ll be puncturing the holes needed for aeration. Water and nutrients will easily flow directly to the root zone. They may not be the most fashionable things you’ve ever put on your feet, but they sure do work wonders for your grass.

Just make sure you take them off before heading back into the house. Order from Magnamail: bit.ly/2QPQu1a

5

Bli ste rs, B e G o ne!

Kiss blisters, aches and pains goodbye with a pair of gardening scissors that feel like they were made for you! The HRB1 Trimming Scissor is touted as the coolest thing to happen to garden tools since the industrial revolution.They are actually customizable to the shape and size of your hand, spreading pressure evenly for added comfort. Sizes range from XXS-XL and can be ordered for both left and right-handed users.The SK-5 blades are razor-sharp; and the handles are equipped with a heavy-duty spring as well as a built-in shock absorbing cushion, making it ideal for harvesting herbs and flowers over long periods of time.

Easy-to-use and lightweight at only 8.1 oz, the trimming scissors are 9.25 in long. Increase your productivity by working more quickly and comfortably. Ships worldwide from Herbavoretools.com

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Available from a store near you from January 2018.

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Gavita Horticultural Lighting is distributed by

WHAT’S GROWING ON

Who’s Growing

t a h W Wh

austin rali a

ere

1.

Tamborine Mountain, Queensland

Volcanic Soil

Credit: Farm Fresh Organics

They say it all begins with the soil, and maybe that’s why the crops at Blueberry Hill Organic Farm do so well. The farm is set up in the mountain and credits a lot of its success to its rich volcanic soil and an underground aquifer buried deep within the volcanic basalt of Tamborine Mountain. Combine those special qualities with abundant rain, clean air, and organic certification, and you really can’t go wrong. The property is home to a large blueberry orchard and about 40 different fruit and nut trees. Citrus, olives, macadamias, herbs, greens, seasonal vegetables and more are all grown on site.

The organic farm is run on 100% solar and renewable energy and also boasts waste-water management systems, on-farm composting, and plenty of chooks, too. A safe and healthy environment means wildlife is abundant at Blueberry Hill, with regular visits from king parrots, rainbow lorikeets, owls, bees, wallabies, cockatoos, and so much more. They can’t help but love it there.

Treating nature with a whole lot of respect… Learn more: freshorganics.com.au/farmers/blueberry-hillorganic-farm

2.

Duranbah, New South Whales

What was once a run-down crop farm turned over to grazing is now a beautiful, natural oasis where more than 500 kinds of fruit from around the world successfully grow on 165 acres of land. Tropical Fruit World is a family-owned venture that takes the treatment of the surrounding environment seriously -- only sustainable farming techniques are practised on the property. From harvesting their own water to companion planting and preserving the land’s natural forest, a lot of extra TLC is put into the plantation. Initially, avocados grew in abundance on the red soil hills; eventually, orchards of custard apples, bananas, mangos, papaya, lychees, guavas, and so much more blossomed as well. The farm also loves to share its passion for nature and delicious fruit with the public; to date, more than two million visitors have toured the property.

A seemingly endless supply of fruit at your fingertips… Learn more: tropicalfruitworld.com.au

Credit: Tropical Fruit World

Tropical Passion

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WHAT’S GROWING ON

Who’s Growing

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in australia

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Fyshwick, Canberra

Growing Encouragement

Credit: Canberra City Farm

If you don’t know how to grow an edible garden, Canberra City Farm doesn’t want you to feel bad about it; but it does want you to learn how to do it. The farm truly believes that growing your own fruits and vegetables leads to a richer lifestyle thanks to a combination of healthy food, more money in your pocket, and more time spent with nature. The learning centre in Fyshwick is a hub where the community comes together to share knowledge and experience in food production while also being responsible socially, economically, and environmentally. Canberra City Farm wants to pass on the message that gardening doesn’t have to be difficult; it can actually be quite lazy, enjoyable, and productive. Make positive changes in your life. Be resilient.

It’s all about supporting a thriving local food economy and sustainable living… Learn more: urbanagriculture.org. au/canberra-city-farm

4.

Clevedon, New Zealand

Credit: Curious Croppers

Terrific Tomatoes Curious Croppers have two goals in mind: to excite your taste buds and charm your senses. They describe themselves as growers of cranky but delicious fruits and vegetables, mainly juicy tomatoes. But not just any tomato; after initially growing only cherry tomatoes, farm owners Anthony and Angela Tringham now experiment with several different heirloom varieties in their greenhouses, delivering fruits in all shapes, sizes, colours, and with different tastes as well.

Local chefs are said to love their Spanish Red and Oxheart tomatoes for their flavour and interesting patterns when plated. Germination can be tricky for heirloom fruits and vegetables, especially when trying to grow as organically as possible. Curious Croppers grow flowers and weeds to help the beneficial insects, who in turn keep the pests at bay.

They’re not your typical tomatoes…

Learn more: facebook.com/curiouscroppers 3

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BY ALBERT MONDOR, HORTICULTURIST AND BIOLOGIST

A

flexitarian is someone who limits his consumption of meat, but who is not exclusively vegetarian. The flexitarian diet can be practised in a variety of ways: some people do not eat meat every meal or regularly choose to make an entire day meatless, while

others are vegetarians most of the time, but occasionally eat meat.

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Quinoa

GROWING PROTEIN

About a third of North Americans avoid eating meat at least a day a week. Elsewhere in the world, a 2015 survey found that 56% of French people claimed to eat less meat than they did before, whereas only 3% said they had increased their meat consumption.

One of the challenges of flexitarianism is to maintain a sufficient daily intake of protein

Kale is one of the easiest plants to grow in a container Pea sprouts grown on a kitchen counter Just like vegetarians, most flexitarians want animals to be treated better and have many environmental concerns, especially when it comes to climate change. Others impose dietary constraints for a variety of economic, health or social reasons.

One of the challenges of flexitarianism is to maintain a sufficient daily intake of protein. Here are some protein-rich plants that you can grow at home: • • • • •

Broccoli Edamame (soy) Spinach Bean Kale

• • • • •

Corn Parsley Peas Quinoa Sunflower

Although it is usually the seeds that have the highest protein content, young shoots of broccoli, spinach, kale, parsley and peas can also provide large amounts. You can also eat the leaves of beans, quinoa and soy. These plants will be ready to be eaten about two to three weeks after sowing when their leaves are well developed. Sunflowers and corn can also be grown using this technique, but only their foliage will be ready to eat.

Quinoa grown in a Canadian garden

These protein-rich plants can be easily grown outdoors in containers, either on a terrace or balcony. Keep in mind that larger vegetable crops, such as corn and sunflower, grow better and produce higher yields if grown directly in the ground with a fair amount of compost.

During the winter in northern parts of North America and Europe, it is imperative to grow these edible plants indoors, ideally under artificial lighting. Seeds can simply be placed in pots or a plastic tray filled with moist potting soil. The seeds are then covered with some substrate and a translucent dome can be placed on the pots or tray to maintain maximum moisture.

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HEALTH & INNOVATION AUSTRALIA’S LARGEST

CANNABIS EXPO DEC 8-9 MCEC TIX: HHIEXPO.COM.AU

GROWING PROTEIN

It is imperative to grow these edible plants indoors, ideally under artificial lighting

Sprouts and Microgreens In Your Kitchen Sprouts and microgreens are more popular than ever, particularly among millennials. They can be used in salads, sandwiches, spring rolls, sushi and even smoothies!

Here is how to grow your own sprouts and microgreens:

Sprouts Growing sprouts is simply a matter of sprouting seeds and consuming them when rootlets begin to grow, usually within 2 to 7 days. In addition to promoting the elimination of certain substances that impede digestion, sprouting increases the number of nutrients available.

5 Steps To Growing Sprouts:

2.

3.

4.

5.

Rinse the seeds and soak them in warm water for a few hours.

Empty the water, rinse the seeds and place them at the bottom of a 500 ml Mason jar. Do not put more seeds than it takes to cover the bottom of the jar.

Cover the opening of the jar with a piece of cheesecloth held in place with an elastic band.

Place the jar upside down in a bowl at an angle so that air can circulate. You can put the jar in a dimly lit place in your kitchen, as light is not needed for germination of most seeds.

Rinse the seeds once or twice daily until small white rootlets are visible, indicating that they are ready to eat.

Corn microgreens

Microgreens Microgreens are usually crunchier and tastier than sprouts.

They are typically harvested a little later than sprouts, about 7 to 21 days after sowing. Microgreens are harvested when the first two leaves - which are actually cotyledons used to feed the plant before the growth of true leaves - are well developed. You can also wait for true leaves to come out before harvesting.

5 Steps To Growing Microgreens: 1.

2.

3.

4. image: indiaphile

1.

5.

Sprouted beans

Put about 2� of moist potting soil in a reclaimed plastic tray (the kind used for salad and other greens in supermarkets).

Lightly press the potting soil and sprinkle the seeds.

Cover the seeds with a little substrate and close the lid or place a translucent dome on the tray to maintain maximum moisture.

If the majority of seeds do not need light to germinate, once the stems are out, it is necessary to expose them to the light coming from a south-facing window or from an artificial lighting system.

Do not forget to add some water if the substrate is dry; if condensation forms, be sure to open the dome for a few minutes. 3

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WWW.WHG.NET.AU

BY TOM FORREST

Stealth Science

Silicic Acid cid ilicic A S

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SILICIC ACID

S

ilicon (Si) is the second most abundant element present in the Ear th’s crust. Soils generally contain up to 40% silicon (Kovda 1973) and plants use this key element in vast amounts. Recent advancements in the production of silicon fer tiliser compounds and manufacturing techniques

are giving farmers access to a new wave of silicate products.

Silicate compounds are essential to fight plant disease and for pest resistance The physically and chemically active Si petrol, silicates must be “refined” before Microbes or other substances in the soil are represented they can be used. However, this might chemicals must by monosilicic acids, polysilicic acids, and not be a problem, because it is elemental come into play so the silicon that plants need, not silicic acid organosilicon compounds (Matichenkov and Ammosova, 1996). These forms of per se. plants can benefit silicon are interchangeable with each other, from the silicates in as well as with other crystalline minerals Silicon-oxide bonds are very strong the ecosystem and living organisms (soil microbes and bonds that do not “magically” break up. plants). Silicic acid is the general name for a Therefore, adding silicates (SiO2 and family of chemical compounds containing the element silicon such) to your plant’s diet does not help them in their need attached to oxide and hydroxyl groups. for silicon. Microbes or other chemicals must come into play so the plants can benefit from the silicates in the ecosystem.

Monosilicic acid (H4SiO4) is the centre of these interactions Adding silicic acid, on the other hand, will benefit your plants and transformations. Monosilicic acid is the product of silicon immediately in their need for silicon, because this form of mineral dissolution (Lindsay 1979), absorbed by plants and silicon is readily available without the help of mineralization living organisms (Yoshida 1975). They can influence the by microbes in the ecosystem. Having said that, potassium chemical and biological properties of the soil, including silicate products do still have an effect on plants because significant interactions with phosphorus, aluminium, iron, the silicates can be turned into absorbable molecules by manganese and other metal mobility. organisms or other chemicals (e.g. strong acids).

Monosilicic acid is also essential in the formation of polysilicic acids and secondary minerals, however, plants and microbes can only absorb monosilicic acid (Yoshida 1975). Polysilicic acids will influence soil texture, water retention, cation exchange capacity, and soil erosion stability (Matichenkov et al, 1995).

Modern agricultural research and manufacturing in Europe have developed novel methods of blending and isolating these silicic acid compounds in a stable form (with a long shelf life; essential for successful product development). Brands are now available worldwide with extremely high concentrations of silicic acids.

There is an ongoing debate about the efficacy of monosilicic acid products vs older potassium silicate products. The benefits of silicic acid products over typical potassium silicate products are easy to explain. Silicic acid products (such as Super Si) contain just that: an absorbable form of silicic acid.

Potassium silicate is a molecule that does not contain silicic acid, but silicate (SiO2), which is not readily available for plants.

Scientists agree that for horticultural purposes, the amount of silicic acid that is yielded from dissolving potassium silicate into water is almost non-existent. Much like crude oil versus

Monosilicic acid is readily absorbable by the plant and can also make an aqueous solution more acidic, which increases absorbability of other minerals. Other forms of silicon in the soil are not easily assimilated by plants and only a small proportion is absorbed as H4SiO4.

Once absorbed by the plant, silicon polymerizes when it dehydrates and concentrates on the epidermis cells as biogenic amorphous silicon (SiO2). This biological process illustrates that silicate compounds are essential to fight plant disease and for pest resistance (Epstein 1999).

Silicon can also alleviate various abiotic stresses including salt stress, metal toxicity, drought stress, radiation damage, nutrient imbalance, high temperatures, freezing and more.

These beneficial effects are mainly attributed to the high accumulation of silica in the surface tissue.

Soil structure degradation occurs if a soil is lacking in silicon.

This influences the decomposition of secondary minerals that control numerous growth factors and other soil structure properties. Silicon fertiliser also absorbs phosphorus and decreases leaching of the mineral by 40-90% (Matichenkov et al, 2000). It is noteworthy that the phosphorus is kept in a plant-available form.

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SILICIC ACID

Microbes or other chemicals must come into play so the plants can benefit from the silicates in the ecosystem

Numerous field experiments have demonstrated that Si fertilization has more influence on plant growth for acid soils than liming (Ayres, 1966; Fox et al, 1967). Si fertilisers have also been proven to increase the productivity of crop yield, as well as the concentration of essential oils and sugars.

When using any silicon product, it is essential to add this compound to your reservoir first. This drastically reduces the likelihood of silicate compounds negatively reacting with base nutrients.

Silicon product dilution rates vary, however, the best products will have a dilution rate of 1.5mL per 10L of water. This ratio can be doubled at the start of the flowering cycle to reduce plant stretching and decrease internodal spacing in certain plant varieties. As the silicon is deposited in the walls of epidermal cells after absorption by plants, it contributes considerably to stem strength.

These essential compounds allow for a plethora of growth benefits in almost all plant species, whilst potentially improving the quality of your soil

Silicon is not a very mobile element in plants. Therefore, a continuous supply of this element would be required for healthy and productive development during all growth stages.

Silicic acid products are especially effective when used as a foliar spray, however, the concentration required is higher and these are generally used at 1mL per 1L of water.

Despite the scientifically-recognised fact that plants take up silicon equivalent to some macronutrients, it is still not widely recognized as an essential element. This could be due to the non-availability of any product having a defined concentration of orthosilicic acid.

The differences between monosilicic acid and orthosilicic acid are purely in the names of the two substances. In essence, none of the silicic acid products that are sold in the market contains molecules as simple as Si(OH)4. Most of the products contain chains of silicon elements coupled with loads of oxide and hydroxyl groups.

In general, people refer to orthosilicic acid when they talk about water-soluble or plant absorbable silicon compounds.

But in chemical, historical, and linguistic terms, orthosilicic acid is defined as “the true� silicic acid, or something that is readily available. Monosilicic acid is the name for a single silicic acid molecule. But since silicic acid has various forms in which it exists, this term is rather strange.

Including silicon in any fertiliser regime is extremely important.

These essential compounds allow for a plethora of growth benefits in almost all plant species, whilst potentially improving the quality of your soil. For our favourite fruits or flowers, it can drastically improve the quantity and the quality of the final harvest.

If you’re hesitant to change your existing nutrient regime, try using a monosilicic acid foliar spray like SuperSi on half of your crop. Spray twice per week at night during the vegetative growth period, and enjoy the results of a serious silicon superstar! 3

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BY JEFF WINTERBORNE AND TOBY BERRYMAN

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CLOSED LOOP HORTICULTURE

CLOSED LOOP HORTICULTURE MERGING NATURE AND TECHNOLOGY EVEN CLOSER TOGETHER Are you tired of temperature spikes in the hot days of summer, and of having to heat or have cold periods during the days of winter?

Frustrated with going through endless bottles of CO2? Furious with having to tackle various pests, spores, moulds, and airborne diseases finding their way into your grow room and attacking your beloved plants? Then follow our advice in this article, and join the rapidly growing movement which is simply the future and next level of indoor growing methods.

THIS METHOD IS ALSO KNOWN AS: CLOSED GROWING ENVIRONMENT (CGE) , SEALED ROOM, CLOSED LOOP ENVIRONMENT, OR THE PERFECT ROOM .

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Grow rooms across the globe have traditionally been fairly basic. Running numerous HID light fixtures in a confined space to mimic the intense light of the sun, coupled with powerful intake and extraction fans to combat the massive amounts of heat generated by the lamps and ballasts and other equipment in your room, whilst also allowing fresh air to flow through the room providing your plants with CO2 and oxygen. This tradition, however, is a flawed concept.

All indoor growers that know what they are doing basically aim for the same ideals: optimal temperature ranges between 22-28°C (71-82°F), optimal humidity levels of approximately 50-65% when in the blooming stage of growth (depending on plant species), and as little temperature and humidity fluctuations as possible.

But what do you do when the temperature outside is higher than the desired levels within your grow room?

Or when it’s particularly humid outside? You sit there scratching your head, and pray that the temperature or humidity level drops before your crop experiences too much damage.

What we are getting at here is the entire grow room concept in use and built upon around the world for all these years is fundamentally flawed, because despite the money you spend on massive loud extraction fan systems, environmental controllers, and everything else in between - the outside conditions are always dictating the conditions within your grow room. If it’s 25°C (77°F) outside, then it is literally impossible to maintain the desired temperature within your grow room.

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And there is only one way to solve these problems, whilst having absolute control of every aspect of your indoor grow room - 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.

That solution is; pull down those fans, get rid of that messy ducting, seal up all of those holes, and create a totally perfect, closed off grow room. Build your very own Garden of Eden: A CLOSED GROWING ENVIRONMENT! A Closed Growing Environment is an indoor garden that is totally sealed! And we aren’t just talking about light proofing. We mean air-sealed. There are no holes, gaps, or vents to anything outside of the indoor garden. The name of the game here is to create a totally controlled environment where you can manipulate and customise every aspect of the plant’s growth to produce the optimum results.

Setting up a closed indoor garden is more expensive but, if done correctly, it should give you the maximum ability to dictate and control temperatures, CO2 levels, humidity, and disease - around the clock, through all seasons. And most people who make the change, and do it thoroughly and correctly, report massively increased yields and far less pest problems.

I bet at this point, some of you are scratching your swede and thinking to yourself, “If I totally seal off my room and exchange no air through extraction, isn’t my room going to get really, really hot? Won’t my plants suffocate to death through lack of fresh air?” This is where the three main parts to a closed room come

CLOSED LOOP HORTICULTURE

NO HOLES, GAPS, OR VENTS TO ANYTHING OUTSIDE OF THE INDOOR GARDEN

into play. The three central organs of a closed grow room are: air conditioners, dehumidifiers, and CO2 generators. By replacing your fans with this equipment, you can have a perfect room, plain and simple.

the outside conditions are always dictating the conditions within your grow room

Let’s Break it Down, Starting With Air Conditioning There are many types of air conditioners available portable units (both single hosed and dual hosed), window units, commercial-sized spot coolers, and more. All of these will provide some cooling power, but unfortunately, these units tend to work inefficiently. Additionally, most types actually use air from within your room to cool the internal compressor, which totally defeats the object of keeping the room sealed, as they will suck some air out of your room, which will create a negative air pressure within it and waste precious CO2 .

The solution? We advise using split air conditioners or water-cooled air conditioners.

A split air conditioner exchanges no air with the outside world. They are, as their name would suggest, split into two units; an indoor air handler, and an outdoor condenser unit with a pre-charged and sealed umbilical line. These units are ideal, from lighter mini splits, all the way to commercial units that can cool any number of lights. With the indoor air handler placed within the grow room, it will pull the interior air across a heat exchanger with incredibly cold refrigerant running through it, and transfer the heat within the air down the tubing and through the refrigerant to the outdoor unit that expels the heat. So, no air is being removed

from the room. Only the heat within the air is removed before being blown straight back to the grow room.

Water-cooled air conditioners that the grower can install are very efficient in terms of power usage and heat transfer, sending removed heat down the drain into the sewers. They do not require an outdoor condenser, which will be appealing for a lot of situations, but the downside to water-cooled units is the incredible amounts of water they use. So, if you’re on a metered water supply, it’s not the advisable choice.

Another bonus of using air conditioning is the added benefit of dehumidification, as the unit also dehumidifies as it cools. And as your plants transpire in a sealed off room, adding abundant humidity to the environment, that for the most part, your air conditioner can control beautifully.

They rate an air conditioner’s capacity in BTUs (British Thermal Units). This represents how many BTUs of heat they can cool per hour. They can also be rated in tons and kilowatts. It’s an easy conversion formula: 12,000 BTUs is the equivalent to 1 ton of air conditioning, which is 3.52 kilowatts. So, to determine the cooling requirements, all we need to do is calculate how many watts of heat we need to cool per hour. Each 1000 watts of light is generating 3412 BTUs of heat. It’s a tried and tested value - 1000 watts of power (bulb and ballast combined), regardless of bulb or ballast efficiency, creates the same 3142 BTUs of heat. In the case of an old magnetic core and coil ballast, you’re generating less efficient light while the ballast produces more heat, but combined they are still 1000 watts and still creating 3412 BTUs of heat. A modern digital ballast is much more efficient in operation, creating a brighter, more

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CLOSED LOOP HORTICULTURE

A SPLIT AIR CONDITIONER EXCHANGES NO AIR WITH THE OUTSIDE WORLD

efficient burn of the same lamp. This results in a hotter bulb, but a cooler ballast, yet they are still generating 3412 BTUs of heat combined.

Another added bonus of using air conditioning is the benefit of dehumidification

With all of this in mind, we must allow 4000 BTUs of cooling power per 1000 watts of light. This allows for the room size and CO2 burners, but the heat from dehumidifiers should also be factored in. So, if a dehumidifier consumes 700 watts of power, it is producing 2387 BTUs of heat. You can even add up the combined power of all the equipment in your room and multiply that by 3.41 to get the exact heat load of the room. Just remember that a watt of power is 3.41 BTUs of heat.

You can downsize these calculations by 10% when ballasts are placed outside the grow space, and by approximately another 20% when the lights are air-cooled. But since not all appliances are 100% efficient we should also factor in about 15% extra power to play it safe and account for other variables like outside temperatures, or how well insulated your room is. This cushion also allows our air con to not have to run at 100% all day long, thereby prolonging the life of the units and components within it. So, when sizing your air con, just remember to allow 4000 BTUs of cooling power for every 1000 watts of lighting (or 2400 BTUs for every 600 watts of lighting), and 3.41 BTUs per watt of the power of your dehumidification - then up the total by 15%. Only expect these calculations to work if you are using quality air con units; some are far less efficient than others.

The Dehumidifier’s Role The second thing we have begun to tackle, but not entirely, is humidity.

While air Mushrooms conditioners are dehuTurkey Tail midifying to some degree, they are doing so as a by-product of cooling. So, when the lights come on or go off with only an air conditioner in the room, you will have massive spikes in humidity. As the air con ceases to need to cool the lights to maintain the desired temperature when the lights go off, it will also stop de-

humidifying, and since this is a sealed room with no ventilation, the humidity will rapidly climb to 100%. Due to transpiration and evaporation, and more importantly, the environmental change in the room as the lights shut down, the hot air in the room while the lights are on can hold a lot more water than when the temperature drops at the end of the light cycle. At this point, the water held in the air will suddenly have nowhere to go and humidity will rapidly climb, and condensation will settle everywhere, including on your plants. This is why we would employ a dehumidifier, which will automatically kick on and off as required to maintain the desired level of humidity within the room, 24 hours a day.

Now, there are rules in sizing a dehumidifier, just as there are in sizing your air conditioner. We recommend approximately 1 litre per plant per 24 hour period. It is very important to understand that dehumidifier ratings are generally based on how many litres of water they can remove per 24 hour period. However, they are almost always tested for 32°C (90°F) and 80% relative humidity, when you drop the temperature to ideal growing conditions of 24 - 28°C (75-82°F), the water collection rate will drop significantly too. So, always oversize your dehumidification if you can.

The reason we need such powerful dehumidification in a closed room is because a large mature plant in a hydroponic system can consume up to a litre of water per day. Very large plants can drink even more, and almost all of the water consumed by a plant will enter back into the atmosphere of the room through transpiration, and other variables such as evaporation from tanks and water vapour created by your CO2 generators all add up. It is quite difficult to come up with a precise equation for calculating your dehumidifier requirements, but a good rule of thumb when sizing a dehumidifier for a closed room environment is to allow 1 litre of dehumidification per plant or more. If unsure, always take the safe route and oversize.

For the earlier stages of plant development in a closed room, we also recommend that growers employ humid-

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CLOSED LOOP HORTICULTURE

PLANTS ONLY REQUIRE TWO COMPONENTS OF WHAT FRESH AIR CONTAINS... OXYGEN AND CO 2 ifiers. Very young plants in a sealed tem, a plant in soil will just not have All equipment in room will not transpire very much the oxygen levels required to produce a perfect closed water into their atmosphere, and bumper yields. with the air conditioners and dehuNext, let’s take a look at CO2 levels. room should run midifiers running, you can end up with Growers all know that plants need from sensors lower than desired levels of humidity.

CO2 in order to photosynthesise, so This will only be an issue in the very we’re going to supply this if we’re not early stages of plant development. Humidifiers, in most relying on fresh air ventilation. Growers using standard scenarios, will no longer be necessary once the plants ventilation can maintain normal atmospheric levels of begin to establish and grow rapidly.

CO2 in their indoor gardens. However, if they wish to

The Final Vital Components: CO2 and Oxygen Many growers believe that plants need to have fresh air in order to survive, when in actual fact, plants only require two components of what fresh air contains, and these are oxygen and CO2 .

Firstly, we highly advise the use of air pumps installed high up in the grow room blowing small amounts of fresh air directly into the reservoirs and root balls of the plants.

In a sealed room that is full of CO2 , the roots of your plants will have a hard time finding oxygen with the air pumps mounted at ground level. This is why it is very important in any closed room situation to keep the air pump mounted high in the grow space, because when placed too low, you will be blowing CO2 into the roots, not oxygen, which will have a detrimental effect on the plants.

Aeration to the roots of plants is one of the most overlooked things in horticulture, and keeping the roots constantly aerated will boost any plant’s performance to new levels, and at the same time, make it very difficult for disease to find its way into your always oxygen-rich water, especially when kept down to optimal temps of 18°C (65°F). We do NOT advise growing in soil if you’re running a sealed room. Roots have a hard enough time finding oxygen in soil as it is, but in a sealed room, without a super aerated hydroponic sys-

add more to try boosting growth, they often encounter a dilemma. What’s the point of injecting extra CO2 into your indoor growing environment if it’s going out the vents before your plants gain any benefit from it?

High energy plants in optimum lighting conditions of approximately 10,000 lumens per square foot can happily consume 1,200-1,500 parts per million (ppm) of CO2 . The outside air we breathe contains approximately 400 ppm, so in basic terms, you can double the growth rate and productivity of a plant by supplying it with the required levels of CO2 it requires to be able to harness the massive levels of light we are giving it.

Concerning CO2 uptake in high energy plants, many people are overdoing it, consistently. Studies have shown that when you take CO2 levels in a grow space past a level of 1500 ppm, in most species, the stomata on the underside of the leaf which absorb the CO2 will start to close up. At levels of 1500 ppm and higher, the less efficiently the plant will grow. Maintaining the levels between 1,200-1,400 ppm ensures optimum growth rates.

Likewise, another quick tip for all you closed roomers out there, when using CO2 do NOT believe the hype about raising the temperature in your room to silly levels like 32°C (90°F), expecting improved results. While plants can tolerate higher temps in a CO2-enriched environment, it does not mean they perform better. Certain species will benefit from a slightly raised temperature and humidity level when exposed to optimal CO2 levels. We recommend 26-28°C (78-82°F) and 60-65%

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PLANTS ONLY REQUIRE TWO COMPONENTS OF WHAT FRESH AIR CONTAINS... OXYGEN AND CO 2 relative humidity during flower, but only in certain situations and not always, but don’t push it any higher if you can avoid it.

CO2 generators that can produce massive amounts of CO2 by burning LPG propane gas, are easily available and cheap as well a having an electric ignition, so there is no pilot light to worry about. Some models have water cooling options. You then plug the generator into an infrared CO2 monitoring device with a photo sensor, which will perfectly regulate the levels in the room while the lights are on, and will shut off the CO2 when the lights are off. Trying to guess it with older dosing equipment, may work, but is not advisable.

All equipment in a perfect closed room should be monitored from sensors to ensure an ideal growing environment: 24-28°C (75-85°F) temperature, 50-65% humidity, 1,200-1,400 ppm CO2 , constant air movement and aeration, and scrubbed air. You can equip some sensors with remote monitoring and notification features, that send alerts by mobile if your grow room environment has slipped out of optimum growing parameters. When combined with computerised interface and cross-links to security systems, growers can instantly find out what’s happening to their grow room from almost anywhere in the world.

Now, as with sizing up the air con and dehumidification requirements, there is a rough rule of thumb to sizing up a CO2 generator as well. The higher the rating of the generator, the faster it will fill a given space with the set level of CO2 . Generators are usually rated in how many cubic feet of CO2 they can produce per hour.

Generally, each individual burner in the CO2 generator will produce approximately 3 cubic feet of CO2 , and we have found that a 4-burner tends to suit an area of up to 4.5m x 4.5m (15ft x 15ft), and an 8-burner covers 7.6m x 7.6m (25ft x 25ft). Sometimes the rating is given in kilowatts (kW), and an 8kW generator is good for about 150 square feet, a 16kW unit covers about 300 square feet, and so on.

Burning LPG to create CO2 will produce some heat, but this can all be accounted for if we remember to al-

ways allow 4000 BTUs of cooling power for every 1000 watts of HID light. Or if burning gas is not for you… you can simply fit a normal CO2 bottle and regulator to a CO2 sensor and set the ppm you require.

The use of bottled CO2 can also facilitate the killing of spider mites and other pests. In true sealed grow rooms that have no leaks, growers can kill all pests by upping CO2 levels to 10,000 ppm for one hour. Other CO2 augmentation methods are incapable of generating 10,000 ppm for an hour. Only the bottle supply method is capable of providing that concentration of CO2 . In particular, when using 10,000 ppm bug-killing tactics, growers must use safety methods that minimise the health problems that CO2 can cause to humans. So, these are the vital components within the fresh air which your plants require sorted.

Another thing to mention is pests and disease, airborne or otherwise. Nothing can get into your room to cause your plants harm, as there is no way into your sealed room. Unless they come in on you, so be clean and careful.

Unwanted heat and odours aren’t being expelled from the room either. We highly recommend running ozone generators to combat any spores or fungi that could occur within the sealed space and to utilise some blue light throughout the entire growth cycle. Metal halides and daylight lamps are abundant in UV light, and will also keep things like powdery mildew and botrytis at bay. The larger commercial grade air con units can ensure there are zero spores or contaminants in the air at all times when fitted with UV air cleaners.

Activated carbon filters (scrubbers) should always be used in a sealed grow space. Place your filter wherever you like in the room, attach an inline fan of the correct size to it, and just have it on 24 hours a day, pulling air through the filter and blowing back into the room again. This creates no positive or negative pressure, you are simply scrubbing it clean of any unwanted

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PLANTS ONLY REQUIRE TWO COMPONENTS OF WHAT FRESH AIR CONTAINS... OXYGEN AND CO 2 air-borne contaminants and helping to control odours.

Placing the filter on the floor helps to mix any unused CO2 , which is heavier than air, back to the top of the room, to fall back onto your plants.

With all the previously mentioned items combined with hydroponic systems and lighting systems, you can create a room which can easily be kept at the exact levels of temperature, humidity, and CO2 required to make your plants go absolutely bonkers 365 days a year. Seriously, you will not believe the results that are achievable, no matter what the outside conditions are. And once you get your head around the concept of closed environment growing, it really is a simpler way to do things, because you are relieving yourself of so many problems that growers have battled for so many years.

Lastly, after 3 years of helping people with sealed set ups, gaining feedback, and troubleshooting various problems - we have discovered some valuable insights we would like to share with you.

BIO Jeff Winterborne is the author of Hydroponics: Indoor Horticulture, owner of Esoteric Hydroponics since 1997, and developer of ProActive. Toby Berryman is Jeffrey’s apprentice and equally enthusiastic about indoor gardening.

Visit 1-hydroponics.co.uk to learn more.

1. Make sure you buy quality air conditioning if you’re running anything larger than a small hobby sized set up. Cheap units underperform and eventually break.

2. When your lights are off it is good practice, though not an absolute necessity, to run a very small amount of ventilation. It is not always needed, but can help a lot in some situations, to refresh just a tiny bit of air in the room between light cycles.

It will help to avoid CO2 getting too high during the night, and will give a slightly negative room pressure which will assist the stomata in staying open and ready for CO2 absorption when the lights come back on. It will also evacuate any mild levels of toxicity from CO2 burners that may build up in the room, and assist in a bit of extra oxygen for the root system. But we must firmly state, we mean tiny levels of extraction, like a 100mm RVK fan and filter is all that is necessary.

3. We have had a lot of feedback claiming that to drop the CO2 back to atmospheric levels for the last week or two during flush has a very positive effect on the end product, resulting in a much higher quality crop. We recommend this wholeheartedly.

4. Use lots of air movement and circulation fans on the walls and floors to keep the air moving everywhere in the room to get even CO2 levels and temperature throughout, and in doing so, avoid microclimates forming in areas with less circulation. Good air movement around your room ensures that things like sensors for ACs, climate controllers, and CO2 are giving you a true reading.

5. And the last thing we cannot emphasise enough, is that you must do a very thorough job of insulating and sealing your room. The more well insulated you are, the more effectively and efficiently the room will run.

So, there you have it; a truly perfect room where you are the one dictating what is happening inside your garden instead of the outdoors doing so. It is relatively easy to calculate the air con, dehumidification, and CO2 requirements for a room of any size from a few lights all the way to fifty! 3

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BY PETER BAAS, PHD; COLIN BELL, PHD

Green Revolution How Microbes Work In Hydroponics 76

MICROBES IN HYDROPONICS

Microbial solutions are the key element of the next green revolution In all natural terrestrial and aquatic systems, no plant exists that doesn’t interact with microbes

T

here are many benefits and challenges growers can experience when utilising the natural power of beneficial microbes in hydroponic systems. We hope this will help shed light on how microbes work to suppor t plant growth and yield in soilless systems.

Soil microbes have been critical to plant growth since plants first evolved over 700 million years ago. To this day, soil bacteria and fungi continue to shape soil environments, allowing plants to thrive.

Our team of PhD. scientists are dedicated to understanding how plant-microbial interactions support plant health and development in agriculture and natural ecosystems. In the cannabis industry, most living soil and organic growers understand the importance of using microbes to enhance plant nutrient uptake. However, it is less clear how microbes work to support plant growth in hydroponic growing.

In hydroponic growing, the goal is to supply all nutrients that plants need in the ‘right’ amounts so they won’t become nutrient deficient. However, plant nutrient deficiencies and poor growth can still occur even if there is a plentiful nutrient supply in the reservoir solution. Applying beneficial microbes can help plants maximize their full phenotypic potential in two main ways; by maximizing nutrient recycling into accessible forms, and by inhibiting and/or excluding plant pathogens from affecting plant health.

In all natural terrestrial and aquatic systems, no plant exists that doesn’t interact with microbes. Around the world, studies have clearly shown that soil and water samples can contain billions of microbial cells which represent tens of thousands of different bacterial and fungal species – and many of these microbes live within millimetres of plant roots (called the rhizosphere). After decades of research, we now understand that these interactions are so important that, in nature, plants actively recruit specific microbes to maximize their growth potential and success. Plants manipulate their rhizosphere microbiome (microbes in the root zone) through changes in the chemistry of compounds released through their roots. In the rhizosphere, microbes benefit plants

by continuously adjusting nutrient availability, supporting optimal plant growth conditions. To a large degree, microbes accomplish this by facilitating ion exchange processes on the surface of the roots – causing profound effects on improved plant nutrient uptake.

Microbes are especially important for plant growth in aquatic systems; they maximize nutrient availability by degrading plant-produced organic compounds and converting them into beneficial metabolites. As this process takes place, plant physiology and metabolism are stimulated. Hydroponic systems are less buffered than natural systems, so using beneficial microbes can have an even greater positive impact!

It is impossible to maintain a completely sterile environment in hydroponic growing. Early stage plant tissue culture grown in controlled laboratory environments is the only cultivation method known that allows for plants to grow in conditions completely devoid of microbes. All hydroponic systems will include microbes from the environment and all hydroponically grown plants have surface bacteria growing on their roots. Regardless, it is common practice to use disinfectant additives to keep hydroponic systems ‘as sterile as possible’ to control pathogenic microbes from infecting the plant. Using these products likely won’t kill all microbes or prevent them from rapidly reestablishing within days after sterilization efforts (although, hopefully, they are efficacious in limiting plant pathogens).

As an alternative to using disinfectants, the use of beneficial microbes can reduce pathogenic microbes by outcompeting them for the resources necessary for growth. This approach extends the benefits of plant-microbial interactions into the hydroponic environment. Beneficial microbes protect plants against pathogens by growing along the surface areas of their roots – blocking pathogens from potential infection sites and

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image credit: customers.hbci.com

The absence of beneficial microbes increases the risk of having pathogenic microbes and other pests establish

Beneficial microbes protect plants against pathogens by growing along the surface areas of their roots

competing against them. Microbes also facilitate chemical signalling which allows plants to naturally fight off diseases and reduce stress responses. Just like in nature, a healthy rhizosphere microbiome is necessary for a healthy plant immune system.

One challenge when using microbes in hydroponics is environmental tolerance. Because many microbes do not persist well in hydroponic environments, we must understand how to select the ‘right’ microbes for our growing environment, which isn’t necessarily easy! To successfully utilize the natural power of microbes in hydroponic growing, we must: 1.

2.

Understand how specific microbial groups function to support plant growth Identify which microbes can persist in hydroponic growing environments

The first step is to identify which microbes are most important for specific plant-beneficial functions. This is best accomplished with microbial consortia (groups of microbes), which interact closely with each other to perform complex functions like breaking down plant-released material to liberate nutrients. Likewise, the absence of beneficial microbes increases the risk of having pathogenic microbes and other pests establish. Introducing a highly functional microbiome into hydroponic environments - like in nature - maximizes microbial functions targeted at enhancing plant health and development.

There are many commercial microbial products that work well in hydroponic environments. It is impor tant to consider the environmental tolerances of different microbial groups to ensure success when using microbes.

Even though mycorrhizae and other fungi play impor tant roles in enhancing plant growth in soils, the high nutrient concentrations and high rate of watering in hydroponic systems are more favourable to bacteria and, thus, allow them to play a critical role in the plant rhizosphere.

Bacteria are the best candidates for use in hydroponic environments because they exhibit a vast diversity of physiological and physical characteristics that are most compatible with hydroponic environments. Bacterial metabolic versatility and evolutionary breadth is actually greater than that of all multicellular organisms on the planet! Bacterial strains can use vastly different compounds, ranging from requiring oxygen to generating it. Different bacteria species can effectively adapt and thrive in wide temperature, pH and nutrient ranges. All of these factors are impor tant for selecting the right microbes that will persist and function as desired in hydroponic and soilless systems.

Using soil microbes in agriculture is now considered the next key innovation allowing farmers to naturally maximize crop quality, health and yield across many crops.

Likewise, we are now able to use microbes with precision in hydroponics to attain similar results. Microbial solutions are the key element of the next green revolution that is enabling a more sustainable agricultural system. Applying microbes with specific physiological functions that promote effective nutrient use will increase plant growth, health and quality in hydroponic and soilless systems. 3

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HEMP:

NUTRITIOUS, DELICIOUS, AND SUSTAINABLE

H

emp really is nothing short of a miracle crop! It removes more CO2 from the air than trees do; one hectare, which takes 90 days to mature, captures 10 times as much CO2 as a hectare of pine trees, which takes 20 years to reach maturity. Growing it is fairly easy, too. It’s highly pest, disease, and drought resistant.That means that unlike most other crops, it uses less water and doesn’t require any pesticides or herbicides.

You can do thousands of things with hemp. From fibre, fuel, and fabrics, to building materials, medicine, and bioplastics, the possibilities are endless. Hemp foods are especially wonderful. They’re not only tasty but are also super nutritious with a low allergen content.

High in protein (20%-30%) and other essential vitamins and minerals, hemp can be consumed by way of seed, oil, and flour. Highly digestible and balanced, you can use the seeds to make hemp milk or sprinkled overtop your meals. Use the oil for salad dressings or for dipping bread into, and add the hemp protein powder into smoothies and baked goods. Aside from the great nutritional benefits, when you eat hemp, you can feel good about how it’s grown too!

Sources: Hemp Alliance: Hemp Foods:

hempalliance.org.au hempfoods.com.au

stronger plants

Silicic Acid naturally increases plant resistance to biotic stress (pathogens) but more importantly; drastically improves abiotic stress tolerance (salt stress, nutrient deficiencies, drought etc). This allows for stronger and higher productivity in crops while increasing trace nutrient uptake.

More Flowers

Shortens internodal spacing, increases floral sites and flower density.

BIGGER RESULTS

Proven to increase productivity of crop yield and increase concentration of essential oils and plant sugars.

healthier plants

Improves plant cell formation and structure for accelerated growth and unrivalled strength.

SuperSi is readily absorbed so immediately satisfies essential crop requirements for silicon.

The overall plant performance enhancer!

ULTRA concentrated 1.5ml / L (15ml / 100L)

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