R E S TAU R A N T S | R E C I PE S | W I N E S | F O OD | C U LT U R E
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We’re back! k a M
! s i h t e
e tt la e
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INDEPENDENT & ISLAND OWNED
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2020 ISSUE 24-04
Celebrating 21 years at the forefront of local food and drink
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AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2020
Welcome To start, I want to say how proud I am of British Columbians for their efforts to keep in-check something none of us has dealt with before. It has been a strange, frightening, unnerving—and sad—four months. In March, the hospitality industry stepped up and closed down, some before being mandated to. Then they put their energies into keeping us fed— from innovating take-out windows to revamping websites to add online ordering, from selling groceries, picnic boxes, family suppers, high tea, pizza, and cake to making our favourite cocktails in take-home containers or adding a bottle of wine to our order. Markets and shops started curbside pick-up service, marked out physical distancing and one-way aisles, and we lined up without complaint for our provisions. Technology’s potential was seen in a new way; people suddenly had the time and the need to connect, even if through a screen. There were virtual cooking classes, beer tastings, DIY projects, crafts for children, online seminars, wine tastings, Zoom family dinners, video chats, and concerts. Things to make, bake, tear down and put up. EAT launched a guide to take-out and delivery on March 25th; we reposted businesses’ information on our social media channels to increase their reach. We told stories of cooking, gardening, walks, and foraging, being stuck in Cornwall, UK, and Victoria’s new pick up windows in The New Normal on eatmagazine.ca. Four months in, things have changed. Businesses are reopening, albeit with a new model in this new normal. Intrepid EAT contributors ventured out: Cinda Chavich scouts that calming of beverages, tea, and maybe a Big Muckle to go with it; Rebecca Wellman shares her recipe for a favourite salad; Jennifer Danter goes green with pizza; we get a Masterclass in berry tarts; Daniel Murphy talks summer barbeques. We are happy to be back. We know it isn’t over yet, but hope the worst is. We are also looking forward to this brave new world and the innovations to come. And whether cooking at home, ordering take-out, or eating out, we can say, “All is not lost, for tonight we dine.”
Cynthia Annett -Hynes
CYNTHIA ANNETT-HYNES EDITOR
Visit eatmagazine.ca for more articles, recipes, news and events.
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3
CITY EATS
REBECCA BAUGNIET
Greetings, EAT readers! I hope this finds
openings over the past few months. Here
night shows and Saturday drag brunch.
Adopt a Bartender YYJ has the mission
you all well, despite these challenging
is our roundup:
@theviciouspoodle
to “bring cocktail culture and hospitality
My last restaurant meal pre-Covid was a
The Red Cedar Café launched this spring
memorable one at Fishhook at Mermaid
at 537 Johnson St. The café runs a
Wharf, so I did a double take when I saw
not-for-profit community meal program,
a noticed a new sign hanging over the
fuelled by volunteers and mutual aid to
door on a recent visit downtown. Indeed,
provide healthy, tasty, affordable meals
Tug Eatery has taken over the space and
to seniors, people in self-isolation and
opened in late June, serving up signature
other people in need in Lekwungen and
cocktails, burgers, fish and chips and
W̱SÁNEĆ territory (Victoria, BC). Learn
Little Jumbo offers their “Fool Proof
more. I’m eager to try the halloumi fries
more about them at redcedarcafe.ca
Cocktails”; portioned cocktail kits that
times. 2020 has certainly not been an easy ride for anyone, but one thing that has been a source of ongoing hope (and comfort) has been witnessing (and tasting) the dedication, resilience, and creativity of our Victoria food community. There has never been a better time to support local food businesses: it lifts the spirits, nourishes our bodies and souls, and also ensures the continued vibrancy of our food culture. The food scene in our city has been an ever-shifting landscape for the past few months, with opening hours and service models changing sometimes from day to day. My favourite way to stay up to date with these ongoing develop-
and enjoy their spacious outdoor patio. tugeatery.com
on an original cocktail. Cocktail kits are available for purchase and the bartender provides a how-to demo on Instagram. @adoptabartender
include the alcohol, mixers and garnishes, available for take-out or delivery. littlejumbo.ca
dessert menu. BabyCakes is a Victoria-
since Sam’s Deli closed. Tractor is open
Bar Venner offers door-to-door deliv-
based business specializing in mini
8am-7pm, Monday-Friday, and has a tempt-
ery Weds-Sat, with feature “Quarantini”
cheesecakes. Custom orders available.
ing breakfast menu on offer until 11am, as
cocktails and a beautiful selection of wines,
babycakesvictoria.ca
well as bowls, soups, stews, sandwiches,
ciders and beer. barvenner.com
and EAT contributors on social media
tion for dine-in and takeout in June.
as we use our Facebook and Instagram
fishhookvic.com
up-to-the-minute information.
with a local distillery who then collaborate
June, filling the space that has been vacant
Fishhook reopened their Fort St loca-
ness updates and offering followers
Foods opened on Government St in late
Bartender matches up a local bartender
Tug also features Babycakes on their
ments is to follow EAT (@eatmag)
accounts for sharing local food busi-
Vancouver-based Tractor Everyday Healthy
to the comfort of your home.” Adopt a
Just in time for Pride month, a new LGBTQ-friendly pub opened at 726 Johnson St. The Vicious Poodle
Despite the many obstacles to running a
offers the city a much-needed relaxed and
business in the midst of a pandemic, there
easygoing LGBTQ-friendly space. Open
have been an encouraging number of new
daily from 11-late, with plans for Tuesday
wraps, or choose your own protein and sides. t ractorfoods.com
Twist of Fate Craft Cocktails delivers around Victoria on Fridays. Twist builds
An international dessert chain founded in
cocktails around your spirit of choice (alco-
Taiwan, BlackBall has opened a loca-
hol is not provided with these kits, though
tion at 759 Yates Street. Blackball has
they recommend their favourites for each
redefined classic Asian desserts such as
selection). twistvicoria.com
Grass Jelly “Xian Cao”, Matcha, and Aiyu by pairing them with a variety of delectable toppings, including boba, coconut jelly, Taro Q, Yam Q, red beans, and many more. blackballna.com Urban Grocer has a planned mid-summer opening. Urban Grocer will be a neighbourhood grocer with a strong focus on produce, a deli with in-house chef creations, and a full selection of everyday grocery items at great prices. urban-grocer.ca
One more new cocktail to-go option worthy of a mention: Victoria Distillers’ The Straight and Narrow gin cocktails in a can are available in three very tasty flavours: Lemon-lavender, grapefruit-rosemary and pear-rhubarb. victoriadistillers.com Farm Fresh Fridays is a new program launched at the Victoria Public Market bringing locally grown fruits and vegetables from some of the region’s top farmers to downtown Victoria residents. Farm Fresh
We have exciting news for everyone who
Fridays is full circle—unsold produce
has been missing Da Tandoor ever since
is used by Circle Canning in their arti-
they closed their restaurant on Fort St.
sanal, farm-sourced canned goods and
The owners have opened a new restau-
can be found at The Chocolate Project
rant in Langford and you will find all
in the Victoria Public Market. Fridays
your old favourites on the new menu.
11am–3pm. v ictoriapublicmarket.com
datandoor.ca
@farmfreshfridaysyyj
One of our favourite trends to take off this season is the curbside cocktail kit. 4
AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2020
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5
Eating Well for Less
ELIZABETH MONK
EWFL: A LANGFORD EDITION
Pho and dough in BC’s fastest growing community.
Original Pho 106-2972 JACKLIN RD, AT LANGFORD PKWY, LANGFORD, 250-590-2789
At Original Pho, the most expensive dish is $15.95. Now that that’s out of the way, let me tell you about what a find this is! I could taste herbs and spices dancing in my mouth in their top-of-the-line House Special Free Range Chicken Pho, and actually said, “Oh, wow” after my first bite. Aside from the juicy meat and the flavours of cinnamon, star anise, and ginger, this pho came with two different dipping sauces—one lime-based and one chili-based—for the chicken. The server kindly educated me that using the dipping sauces “keeps the broth clean.” A great vegetarian option is the Curry Tofu Dish for $12.95. I appreciated the authentic use of taro slices and copious amounts of ELIZABETH NYLAND
garlic along with the tofu, carrots, and broccoli. The base is coconut cream, and the curry is really just a hint. Do not leave here without trying a cold or hot drink. The avocado smoothie has a flavour combination I have not had anywhere else. Mixing avocado with sugar, ice, and condensed milk may seem unusual, but the result is a rich and refreshing drink. And the Vietnamese coffee is made with an heirloom Vietnamese brand called Trung Nguyen. This is probably one of many reasons I noticed Vietnamese clientele in the restaurant. Personally, if I had family members at Langford’s City Centre Park doing their sweaty thing, I would be hiding out close by enjoying some peace and some pho.
IT’S TIME TO FEEL GOOD ABOUT THE MEAT THAT YOU EAT.
HOUSE SPECIAL FREE RANGE CHICKEN PHO, THE CURRY TOFU DISH, AND A VIETNAMESE COFFEE
all the best tools for your kitchen SHOP ONLINE FOR DELIVERY OR IN-STORE PICKUP
#1-6332 Metral Drive, Nanaimo 250.933.1800 TWORIVERSMEATS.COM
6
AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2020
www.maisoncookware.com
Origin Gluten-Free Bakery & Café 105-3039 MERCHANT WAY, NEAR KELLY ROAD, LANGFORD, 250-590-8948
I really like the Strata Cup, and I really like that it is $3. In January, Origin Gluten-Free Bakery & Café opened its doors in Langford’s Belmont Market. Breads, cakes, and other goodies are available for sale here, just as they are in the Victoria location. But now there is a full café attached, with creative and wholesome meals and snacks available. The Strata Cup spoke to me because my British grandmother used to make me bread puddings, and this is the savoury version. An eggy custard binds together bread and caramelized onions in a simple but delicious combination. The Spinach and Potato Galette, for $5.65, looks like a cheerful green flower. The scalloped open crust is made with brown rice, millet, cream cheese, and butter, and the vegetable filling includes feta and a sprinkle of Maldon salt. It is elegant, but also easy to hold in your hand. The Breakfast Focaccia for $6.50 comes with several fun accents. Sweet pickled onions, a hint of lemon, and ELIZABETH NYLAND
even genmaichai green tea in the mayonnaise make this bacon, egg, and cheese sandwich even more interesting. It’s almost impossible to make a choice at the scone and muffin bar. Carrot Date Muffin with Quinoa? Fig Cardamom Scone? I finally settled on the Espresso Muffin made with amaranth flour and enjoyed its earthy, almost savoury taste. Amazing breads are available to take home, or secretly rip apart in the car. The new space is open and airy and includes 24 patio seats—perfect for slipping off the nearby Galloping Goose trail and enjoying Langford’s newest café.
COFFEE AND A SPINACH AND POTATO GALETTE
midislandliquor.com 7
Reporter Hey Happy FARO Bear & Joey Vista 18
WOR D S
Adrian Paradis Cinda Chavich Gillie Easdon PHO T OGR A PH Y
Lillie Louise Major Jacqueline Downey Johann Vincent
Ha nd m a d e E thical L o cal Trad itio nal
CURED AND SMOKED MEATS 2 0 3 2 O A K B AY A V E N U E , V I C T O R I A
250.590.PORK
THEWHOLEBE AST. C A C U R E D @T H E W H OLEBEAS T.CA Hey Happy Partners Brad Holmes and Rob Kettner 8
AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2020
LILLIE LOUISE MAJOR
More Hey Happy to Go Around 122-560 JOHNSON ST, VICTORIA 250-590-9680
|
HE YHAPPYCOFFEE.COM
The popular Johnson Street café has expanded into a new space and a brand-new kitchen. VICTORIA IS KNOWN to punch above its weight class when it comes to restaurants and cafés. A prime example of this is Hey Happy Coffee. Most would agree that for the relative size of this humble city, we
We are so happy to be back! We are thankful to Chef Moto and Chef Shige for their hard work and dedication through these difficult times, and their commitment to HOB and the community. Thank you to our customers. You’ve shown us what it means to be part of a caring community. We are forever grateful! — Chef Castro Boateng
are blessed to have this level of quality café. Fans who love it for its iconic iced coconut milk latte or choice selection of seasonal pour-over coffees, rejoiced at the news that the café expanded, and added a brand-new kitchen and food program. Rob Kettner, owner of Hey Happy, says his café was always popular, but space was definitely limited. “People were turning away because of how busy it had been at times,” he says. “We were knocking on the ceiling. So we were doing fine, and didn’t have to grow, but it made sense that we did.” Kettner says the expansion was just as much about reinvigorating his team’s creative energy as it was about growing the business. “We kind
Open Wednesday – Sunday 9am – 3pm & Thursday – Saturday for dinner at 5pm 105-2854 Peatt Rd Victoria 778-432-2233 houseofboateng.ca
of already had a plan in place before we were even offered the space,” he says. “It was going to be there or somewhere else.” Adding the neighbouring space essentially doubles the size of Hey Happy. The design was carried out by Bidgood + Co. Interiors, the company who has designed the likes of The Sherwood, Wind Cries Mary, and other heavy hitters around town. Large window holes were cut into the wall separating the two spaces, making the room feel open and airy. Modernist light fixtures and exposed brick adorn the newly renovated side. Wooden bench seating provides cozy places to sit and smooth jazz and brightly coloured abstract paintings complete the aesthetic. Kettner never had a specific goal to add food to his café, but it was a hopeful dream. When the new space became available, Kettner’s business partner and long-time friend Brad Holmes—chef and owner of Olo Restaurant—stepped in to help. Kettner says that becoming really good friends with one of the best food talents Victoria has to offer has its perks. “I love the way he runs his business and we work well as friends.” While the menus and food styles of the two locations are drastically different, Holmes designed much of the kitchen and its systems. “I asked Rob what he wanted and then told him what was not going to happen,” says Holmes. “He had a vision from the start so I just wanted to provide him with the things that would work well.” Several Olo staff members even transferred to the Hey Happy kitchen when the renovations finished. Hey Happy’s menu is small, but each item is carefully thought-out, quick to prepare, and sure to please. On the sweeter side of breakfast is the caramelized French toast with Greek yogurt, or house-made granola with choice of oat, cashew, or cow milk. Some savoury breakfast options include a house-made sausage Spanish omelette with an herb mayo, as well as congee with mapo tofu, mustard greens, and crispy shallot. For lunch, the banh mi comes with either spicy mapo tofu, lemongrass chicken, or pâté, as well as bacon jam, pickled vegetables, herb mayo, and sriracha hoisin mayo. Other 9
LILLIE LOUISE MAJOR
Albacore Tuna Rice Bowl - Charred broccoli, pickled vegetables, greens, cucumber, crispy fried onions options are a Cuban sandwich with braised and roasted pork, as well as a rice bowl with similar protein options and pickled vegetables. “We want to be relied upon for comfortable, easy food that will keep you coming back,” says Kettner. Hey Happy may be known for its unique specialty drinks like the aforementioned iced coconut milk latte, or the house-made cashew latte, but Kettner has an endgame of getting people to appreciate the side of purer coffee. “It’s my hope that people will see our fresh filter coffee sheet and start asking a few questions,” he says. While Hey Happy is able to play and have fun with their lovable specialty drinks, it is in single-origin coffees that their true passion shines through. “That’s what really moves the coffee needles from seed to cup and from farmer’s hands to our hands and everybody in between.” Since reopening, Kettner says they have seen ample support from returning costumers. “The response has been almost overwhelming,” he says. “The support, kind words, and compliments coming from the community has been very heartwarming and made us feel really good.” Despite the overwhelming support, Kettner and his team are still the type to nitpick and perfect their own performance, always seeking improvement. “This place is, in my mind, a celebration of design and the talent of this community,” he says. “I’m thrilled by how good and unique the space turned out.” 10 AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2020
ADRIAN PARADIS
Bear & Joey Cafe MY FIRST TIME AT BEAR & JOEY in late May, Sydney-born owner Pete Wood was greeting everyone. Entering the main room, I was floored. The space was flooded with pastel pink and beachy green with gold accents and lit by elegant, modern chandeliers. It was stunning. There’s a casual, inviting opulence to the Cook Street restaurant. “Everyone’s welcome— pajamas, jeans, suits,” says Pete.
1025 COOK ST, VICTORIA 250-590-9193
|
B E A R A N D J O E Y. C A
experience could best be described as “turbulent.” Nevertheless, the response, says Wood, has been overwhelmingly positive. “We weren’t expecting it to be that busy,” he says with a grin. The name Bear & Joey is a tip of the hat to Barrenjoey Headland, a topographical landmark in North Sydney. It seems fitting, really, as landmark is clearly the direction this gem is heading. GILLIE EASDON
I ordered a macchiato, a Beet and Squash Salad and a Granola Bowl for my friend Rob. My salad was delicious, the bok choy’s green against deep beet purple, braised lentils, puffed wild rice with a coconut FATSO dressing. Rob’s Granola Bowl had coconut-based mango panna cotta, coconut yogurt, Earl Grey chia, strawberries, and perfectly baked granola. Healthy, tasty, splendid. The coffee’s lush dark roast was from Pete’s friends at Little Italy Coffee Roasters in Sydney. Pete Wood and Head Chef Tait Bourke share an excitement and a vision of “elevating classics, with that extra bit of thought.” Tait is from Queensland and cheffed in Whistler. Their enthusiasm is reflected in the food and drink, but it’s ubiquitous—everyone, guests and staff alike, is stoked.
JOHANN VINCENT
On my next visit, I tried the Strawberry Soda. Refreshing and complex, its 13 ingredients included fennel, ginger, and vanilla. Bear & Joey focuses on gluten-free, vegetarian, and vegan fare, but there is more. The Breakfast Sandwich with paprika aioli, spinach, tomato-onion jam, bacon, and fried egg is a succulent grab-and-go. The red Crust bun is made with beetroot powder for a more than earthy taste. Pete Wood and his island-born wife moved to Victoria three years ago. He has spent most of his life in hospitality. His vision for Bear & Joey includes building an “extended family” and being part of the community. Their opening coincided with the pandemic, and they had to switch their business model and order of service within a couple of weeks. Pete says the
11
The Comfort of Pizza in a Pandemic
1175 BEACH DRIVE, VICTORIA
250-480-9249
|
O A K B AY B E A C H H O T E L . C O M / FA R O P I Z Z A
Oak Bay Beach Hotel’s plush new pizzeria is a welcome port in a storm. OPENING A RESTAURANT in the middle of a pandemic may be a risky proposition, but less so when you’re offering fresh artisan pizza for take-out and delivery. With restaurants still closed in May, the Oak Bay Beach Hotel took a chance and opened FARO, a move that has proved popular and positive for all. “People were getting really tired of cooking at home, and pizza is the ultimate comfort food, perfect to enjoy as a take-out meal, so the timing has been really good,” says marketing manager Anneke Feuermann. This is a posh pizzeria, bright and airy with a white, marble-topped tasting bar, moss-green velvet banquettes, and plenty of bling from contemporary lighting. Diners can watch chefs firing pies in the gas-fired Wood Stone oven or gather outdoors around cosy new fire features. FARO specializes in Neapolitan-style pizza, with a slightly charred but foldable crust, the edges rising to crisp bubbles around a variety of high quality toppings. There are classic combinations such as margherita with tomato, fior di latte and basil, a fiery ’Nduja salumi and broccolini pizza, and Hawaiian pies topped with prosciutto and fresh pineapple.
2000+ PRODUCTS | $3 LOCAL DELIVERY | BC-WIDE SHIPPING
Hotel executive chef Kreg Graham says the Covid closure gave him time to perfect his pizza recipes and technique, with several iterations of dough and tomato sauces tested during the months of planning. He uses fine ‘00 flour’ milled in Manitoba for the soft, chewy crust, with cured meats sourced locally from The Whole Beast, Natural Pastures’ island-made mozzarella di bufala, and herbs from the hotel garden. One unique specialty—inspired by a pizza created in Naples—is the creamy white Il Ghiaccio (Ice Pizza). The crust is fired with a topping of ice, cooking the edges while leaving a soft centre, then finished with a slurry of melted butter, Asiago, pecorino and Parmesan cheeses, fresh oregano, and flaky sea salt. The new space, formerly Kate’s Café, was expanded to include 54 seats inside and a sunny 60-seat patio, and opened in June. By July, the all-day menu will include coffee, pastries and a selection of cold appetizers and salads to enjoy alongside cocktails and wine at the tasting bar. FARO is the Italian word for “beacon” or “lighthouse,” calling all pizza lovers to a tasty new gathering place in Oak Bay. CINDA CHAVICH
12 AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2020
250.382.9258
JACQUELINE DOWNEY
18th Floor, Chateau Victoria Hotel & Suites
LET’S CATCH UP:
Vista 18
740 BURDETT AVE, VICTORIA 250.382.9258
|
V I S TA 1 8 . C O M
FOR MORE THAN 20 YEARS, Chateau Victoria’s Vista 18 has offered the best top floor view in the city, garnering accolades for its romantic setting, excellent service, and yummy food. Now, welcome to Vista 18—2020. Following an extensive renovation and a reworked menu, Chef Mike Dunlop and Food and Beverage Manager Jon Evans have nailed this update. Covid-19 protocols mean only one person or one group at a time can ride the elevator. Despite the reasons for my exclusive ride, travelling up to the 18th floor Vista 18 was lovely. I would happily come by for a drink or meal with family, work friends, or girlfriends.
Slaters
FIRST CLASS MEAT 1983 LTD.
Let’s talk food first. Chef Mike Dunlop has been executive chef at Vista 18 for 22 years. He has a palpable clarity, commitment, and passion for his work. He introduced me to a few of his favourites.
Get fired up for summer! 250.592.0823 ∙ 2577 Cadboro Bay Road
The Crispy Thai Chili Coconut Humboldt Squid was my first taste. Vista 18 deep-fries only with gluten-free flour. The squid was tender, the batter light, the shaved, roasted coconut meat a savoury and unexpected delight. The Thai yogurt with kaffir lime and lemongrass was subtle and sang with a spike of fresh squeezed lime. The dish was delicate and delicious.
Have a Staycation and we will bring the wine to you
The Moroccan Spiced Lamb Ribs were both tender and crispy, with a cinnamon, tamarind, and lemon, orange, and lime zest dry rub. Chef Mike is an award-winning ribs chef—here you experience how much he loves this tasty work. Finally, I enjoyed the BBQ Sous-Vide Duck Breast. Chef Mike’s riff on duck barbecue is show-stopping. The fried basmati rice, the crispy duck “chicharron” with notes of garlic, ginger and other gorgeous spices? Exquisite.
FREE SHIPPING for 6+ bottles, or join our Fan Club! bluegrouse.ca
Back to the restaurant’s elegant renovation, which introduces carefully appointed spaces to enjoy drinks and a meal at Vista 18. On the left, a feature wall is done in sophisticated yet festive light grey and silvers. To the far right? More cozy and chill with a fireplace. The sunken and more expansive bar is ready to serve you a drink, and there are two cozy booths. Chateau Victoria’s Clive’s has been a local standard for several years now. With this new look, the locally focused menu, and that view, Vista 18 has now come into its own. GILLIE EASDON
local tastes better Curated dishes inspired by the community around us. JACQUELINE DOWNEY
boomandbatten.com 2 Paul Kane Pl. Victoria, BC
13
Grilled Niçoise Salad R ECIPE + S T Y L ING + PHO T OGR A PH Y
Rebecca Wellman
T
raditionally, a niçoise salad wouldn’t include cooked vegetables but who wants to get stuck on tradition when the sun is shining and the barbecue is ready? I believe salads are meant to be versatile, and while many of the known niçoise components are present here, feel free to switch up the grilled vegetables depending on what you find at the market or what is in your fridge. As with all recipes, make this your own. I am simply here to inspire.
14 AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2020
Grilled Niçoise Salad Serves 4.
Dressing 2-3 garlic cloves, minced 1 Tbsp capers 2 Tbsp fresh lemon juice 1 cup packed fresh basil leaves 6 Tbsp best quality mayonnaise ½ cup plain yogurt 1 tsp liquid honey ¾ cup olive oil 1 tsp salt A few grinds black pepper
Salad 2 bell peppers, quartered 1 small red onion, sliced into ¼-inch-thick rings 1 large zucchini, sliced into ¼-inch-thick rounds 2 Tbsp olive oil 1 lb boiled baby white, red or purple potatoes, or a combination ½ lb fresh long green beans, boiled for 2 minutes and blanched 1½ lb sushi-grade tuna, thinly sliced* 4 hard-boiled eggs, halved lengthwise ½ cup pitted niçoise olives (kalamata will do if you can’t find niçoise) 8 cups mixed fresh greens
LOCAL EATS
Parry Bay Sheep Farm Metchosin, BC
Parry Bay Sheep Farm along with Stillmeadow Farm sells lamb, pork and roasting chicken to restaurants and butcher shops in Victoria and through our on-farm market in Metchosin. We truly appreciate those who “walk the talk” and support local producers. From picturesque pastures to backyard barbecues Parry Bay lambs make people smile. John & Lorraine Buchanan 250.478.9628 contact@parrybaysheepfarm.com www.parrybaysheepfarm.com
instagram: @parrybayfarm facebook.com/parrybaysheepfarm facebook.com/ParryBayFarmMarket
Combine all dressing ingredients in a large food processor or blender and blend until creamy and smooth. Heat the barbecue to medium-high. Toss the peppers, onions, and zucchini in the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Grill vegetables until softened and browned, 10-15 minutes, flipping occasionally to sear all sides. Plate all components on individual plates or a large platter and drizzle with dressing. *You can buy frozen seared tuna loins at many local fish counters if you like. The fish will be much easier to slice thin if you do so before it’s completely thawed.
We Are Open 9 to 4
Tuesday to Saturday to serve you at our walkup window, by phone 250 338 8211 or 1 866 468 2462 or 24/7 online at hotchocolates.ca
368 Fifth Street Downtown Courtenay 15
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ISABELLE BULOTA
16 AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2020
Red
Salvage your summer with some help from your local butcher.
B
arbecue. It’s a universal language, but one that’s rich with inflections. In its purest form: fire + meat = awesome. But the word “barbecue” means very different things to different people, from the southern U.S., to Japan, to Patagonia. It’s the great culinary equalizer, stripping cuisine of pretence and self-indulgence. And yet every culture has uniquely refined this most primitive of cooking techniques into an art form, and a highly individualized badge of honour. Another issue uniting global cultures, but with a complete
They’ve done the hunting, the gathering, and the highly
and thorough lack of awesomeness, is this accursed corona-
skilful preparation for you. (Sigh of relief from the party’s
virus. As fortunate as most of us have been on the Western
head Neanderthal.) Wandering into Rebecca Teskey’s sleek
shelf of the country, we still yearn to realize 2020’s summer
and modern downtown butchery, Farm + Field, invokes
before it disappears over the soggy horizon. For anyone
a counterintuitive sense of nostalgia. There’s something
who’s lost track (which happens with alarming ease now): it’s
“old-timey” about a traditional butcher shop—even one as
currently July. The walls appear to be closing in on us a little
contemporary as Teskey’s with its rows of neatly stacked
more each day. Tempers are razor-thin. And our barbecues
cuts, condiments, and accoutrements; a throwback to
might just be the heroes who save us all.
an era before the omnipotent Supermarket became our
What better outlet for family and friends to feast in a time
Teskey suggests a range of options for approaching this
social tendencies in an environment that promotes a healthy
barbecue season that cater to anyone’s skillset and budget.
amount of distance, fresh air, and the disinfectant proper-
Start easy with sausages. Good ones. Not your dad’s “smok-
ties of smoke and fermented beverages (unverified, but still
ies.” And choose a variety. Most independent butchers make
worth a try). Barbecuing has survived pestilence and plague
their own creative recipes in-house, like Korean barbecue,
thus far, and in uncertain times, the best strategy is usually to
chicken with prosciutto and dill, mint and lemon lamb,
lean into the tried and true.
or chicken with basil and peach. Teskey suggests you “buy
ance with the guidelines and safe practices of Dr. Henry and
Daniel Murphy PHO T OGR A PH Y
Johann Vincent Isabelle Bulota
one-stop-shopping solution.
of physically distanced awfulness? We get to satiate our
So, when you’re assembling your social “bubble” (in accord-
WOR D S
some fresh, locally baked buns, make a quick potato salad, and feed a crowd, easily.” That sense of variety turns a one-dimensional meal into an
the barbecue is your safe haven. Like tribal times. Primeval.
inspired spread, and it isn’t just limited to sausages. Consider
And while caveman-grunting or knocking a potential part-
invoking the chop-house classic: “mixed grill.” For steak,
ner over the head with a log might be frowned upon, some-
Teskey recommends a hanger steak, as “they maintain this
one will have to do the hunter-gatherer thing for the sake of
elastic quality, and don’t get tough. Just stay under medium
the tribe. Luckily, your local butcher has your back.
rare and the flavour is super beefy.” Most butchers offer
JOHANN VINCENT
whichever Phase we happen to be in at the time, of course),
Farm & Field owner Rebecca Teskey
pre-marinated cuts as well as fresh, which can do wonders not only for flavour, but texture: “Sitting the meat in something that has a little vinegar, or anything acidic, will keep it extra tender.”
sizeable chunk of a dining budget that's been forcibly held hostage for the past four months, look no further than the
Don’t be afraid to throw in some chicken: “Half a chicken,
withered and wonderful chunks of meat hanging in your
bones in, for 45 minutes at medium heat. If you have a two-
butcher’s dry-aging locker. “If you want to go special, it’s
burner (or more) barbecue, you can keep one side hot and
dry-aged ribeye,” says Teskey. But novices beware: “The
the other cooler. It keeps the hot air moving and won’t char
aging process dries out the water from the meat, so it cooks
too much. Keep the bone-side down, no need to flip it—by
faster than usual. Super-hot grill. Drizzle with oil, and a little
the time it’s done, the skin will crisp up.”
salt. Add pepper later. Just be careful—you’ll hate yourself
Pork isn’t the first thing that comes to mind when we think JOHANN VINCENT
Flavourful hanger steak ready for the grill at Farm & Field
If you’re a grilling purist, or simply looking to part with a
for overcooking it.”
backyard barbecue, but thin-cut, deliciously marinated
Victoria is becoming spoiled for choice with its plethora of
“coppa” pork steaks are a great left-field addition to your
quality butchers. It seems that most of our satellite com-
platter: mildly spicy, with a slight zing of vinegar, and an
munities now boast a “purveyor of fine meats,” with an
easy couple-of-minutes-per-side cook-time. As with any
extensive, carefully curated, and artfully prepared selection
pre-marinated meat, season with salt to taste after cooking:
of carnivorous delicacies. It makes swinging by for a chat
adding salt into the marinade affects the texture of the meat,
with a deeply knowledgeable butcher a must as we re-enter
so knowledgeable butchers will purposely minimize their
social life—and hopefully reclaim some normality from this
salt additions.
mad summer. 17
Get Your Grill On Dry Steak Rub
In a mini-grinder or spice mill, combine 1 tsp dried thyme, ½ tsp dried rosemary, ½ tsp dried marjoram, and ½ tsp dried oregano. Grind the herbs until powdered. Rub 1 peeled clove of garlic over the steak and sprinkle with 1 tsp of sweet paprika and 1 tsp of ground coffee. Sprinkle the steaks with the powdered herbs, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight.
Spiced Red Wine Marinade
In a frying pan, toast 1 Tbsp coriander seeds, 1 Tbsp black pepper, 1 Tbsp fennel seeds and 2 fresh bay leaves over high heat, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat and use a mortar and pestle to lightly crush the spices or transfer to a hard surface, cover with a clean cloth and crush lightly with a rolling pin or a mallet. Transfer to a shallow medium-sized dish. Add to the crushed spices ¼ cup olive oil, ½ cup red wine, 2 finely chopped shallots, 2 garlic cloves, crushed, 1 tsp powdered thyme and 1 tsp Himalayan pink salt.
Meat Me Here RECIPES BY:
This is by no means a complete list. Consider this a starting point.
Isabelle Bulota
Add the your meat to the marinade, turning to thoroughly coat the meat, cover dish with plastic wrap, and leave to marinate for up to two hours at room temperature or 24 hours in the refrigerator. Before cooking, bring the refrigerated meat to room temperature and discard excess marinade.
Red Chimichurri Sauce
Chimichurri sauce hails from Argentina and is a traditional condiment with grilled meats, especially beef. It will last for several weeks in the refrigerator, but chances are you’ll find lots of ways to use this intensely flavoured sauce. Place the following in a food processor: 1 roasted red bell pepper, 2 green onions, ½ Tbsp ground cilantro, 1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar, 2 garlic cloves chopped, 1 small jalapeño pepper, 1 tsp cumin, 1 tsp oregano, ½ tsp salt, ½ tsp smoked paprika, ¼ tsp chili flakes. Pulse until herbs are finely chopped and garlic, peppers, and onions are finely minced; adding a drizzle of oil (optional).
Bold Butchery 250-590-1126 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1420 Quadra St, Victoria Farm & Field 250-415-8373 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1003 Blanshard St, Victoria Slater’s First Class Meats 250-592-0823 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2577 Cadboro Bay Rd, Victoria Village Butcher 250-598-1115 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2032 Oak bay Ave, Victoria The Whole Beast 250-590-7675 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2032 Oak Bay Ave, Victoria Glenwood Meats 250-478-6328 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1245 Parkdale Dr, Langford Berryman Brothers Butcheries 778-351-3633 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2812 Dooley Rd, Saanich Carnivore Meats & More 778-351-4733 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7103 W Saanich Rd, Brentwood Bay Four Quarters Meats 250-508-7654 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2031 Malaview Ave W, Sidney Duncan Butcher Shop 250-748-6377 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 430 Trans-Canada Hwy, Duncan Meat Craft Island Butchery 250-933-2257 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102-6461 Metral Dr, Nanaimo Nesvog Meats 250-753-4248 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2-1533 Estevan Rd, Nanaimo Hilliers Gourmet Foods 250-752-2390 . . . . . . . . . . . . 3065 Van Horne Rd, Qualicum Beach Two Rivers Meats 604-990-5288 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 Donaghy Ave, N. Vancouver Please check websites to confirm opening & hours of business.
1105 caledonia ave - open for take out & lots of patio seating available - fernwoodcoffee.com 18 AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2020
THE STRATH - VICTORIA’S ENTERTAINMENT CENTRE 919 DOUGLAS STREET • STRATHCONAHOTEL.COM • 250 383 7137
19
IT’S EASY (and delicious) BEING GREEN R ECIPE + S T Y L ING
PHO T OGR A PH Y
Jennifer Danter
Jacqueline Downey
P
izza night at home is the new norm these days. Embrace eating more greens and going plant-based at mealtime—your pie can take it! This pesto pizza is a great excuse to use up all that fresh kale and zucchini bursting in the garden.
20 AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2020
Kale and Pepita Pesto
Move over basil, kale is the main event in this pesto. Green pepitas (pumpkin seeds) replace traditional pine nuts to layer in creamy goodness. 1 large bunch kale, stems and ribs removed 1 cup torn basil leaves ½ cup raw green pepitas 2 cloves garlic, smashed 1 Tbsp butter, at room temperature ⅔ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2-3 Tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice ¼ cup grated pecorino Sea salt, to taste Coarsely tear or chop kale leaves. You should have about 5 cups of packed leaves. Blanch in boiling water just until leaves wilt and turn bright green, about 15 seconds. Drain; rinse under cold water; squeeze out excess liquid. Place in a food processor with basil, pepitas, and garlic. Whirl until finely chopped. Add butter; with motor running, gradually whirl in oil and lemon juice. Turn into a bowl; stir in cheese and season with salt and pepper. If not using right away, store in a mason jar; cover with a thin layer of oil and refrigerate up to 1 week. Makes about 2 cups.
Super Green Pizza
This makes enough for two large sheetpan pizzas. Makes about 8 servings (for hungry people). 1 medium zucchini 1 bunch asparagus or 1 broccoli crown 2 Tbsp hemp seeds 1 Tbsp grated lemon peel 1 tsp each dried oregano and basil leaves ¼ tsp each sea salt and ground black pepper
Flour or cornmeal, for dusting 2 balls (1 lb each) pizza dough 2 cups Kale and Pepita Pesto 2 tsp olive oil 2 large balls burrata or fior di latte cheese, drained (about 250 g)* Crushed red pepper flakes (optional) 1 cup microgreens or torn basil leaves (optional) Arrange oven racks in top and bottom third of the oven; preheat to 450ºF. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper. Meanwhile, using a mandoline or sharp knife, thinly slice zucchini into rounds. Slice thicker stalks of asparagus in half lengthwise, or if using broccoli, chop into small florets. In a bowl, stir together lemon peel, hemp seeds, oregano, basil, salt, and pepper. Place one of the parchment sheets (from the baking sheets) on the counter; lightly dust with flour or cornmeal, then place dough in the centre. Using your hands or a rolling pin, roll or press and stretch dough into a large rectangle. Transfer to a baking sheet. Repeat with the other parchment and dough.
asparagus spears or broccoli overtop. Lightly drizzle or spray with oil; sprinkle remaining hemp mixture over the top. Bake until the crust is golden, about 12-15 minutes. Remove from the oven. Tear the burrata into large blobs; arrange over the top. Bake until warm, 2 minutes. Spoon dollops of remaining pesto over cheese; sprinkle with pepper flakes and top with microgreens. *Going dairy-free? Swap the burrata for plant-based mozzarella shreds or your favourite vegan cheese.
Spoon and smooth ¾ cup pesto over each dough rectangle; sprinkle with half the hemp mixture. Arrange zucchini and 21
Talking Tea
WOR D S
Cinda Chavich
Victoria is a tea town, steeped in British traditions of high tea and leading the “third wave” of tea connoisseurs. Whether it’s pretty tea rooms, local tea masters importing and blending international teas, or those harvesting homegrown island teas, Victoria tea lovers have much to explore on the topic of tea. a real life fairy tale behind this intimate garden and tea-
WESTHOLME TEA COMPANY
SILK ROAD TEA
You could say that Westholme Tea is a vertically integrated
Daniela Cubelic is the tea master and mastermind behind
tea company.
Victoria’s Silk Road Tea.
Princess Peggy Abkhazi.
They are not only importing and blending organic loose
Her teashop has been a fixture on the edge of Chinatown
The historic property was once slated for development but
teas, Margit Nellemann and her husband Victor Vesely are
for more than 25 years, a business that put Victoria on the
growing tea plants on their farm outside Duncan, serving
contemporary tea map.
tea in Nellemann’s own hand-built tea ware, and selling it all from their rural tea house and gallery.
Cubelic is meticulous about sourcing high quality green, white, and black teas and the herbs and flowers used in
“We want to be the home for tea culture in Canada,”
her blends, many with health in mind. She learned about
says Nellemann.
the power of plants from her grandmother and takes that
This is Canada’s only commercial tea farm, complete with a terraced garden of more than 800 Camellia sinensis tea bushes.
knowledge into her “wellness teas” designed to promote happiness and relaxation, fight allergies, or boost energy. Popular blends include herbal Angel Water, flavoured with spearmint, lavender, and rose petals; cold-fighter Winter
“People may be surprised there is tea growing in Canada;
Warrior with ginger, green tea, and lemongrass; and
they may be even more surprised that we have been growing
Beau-Tea-Ful Skincare Tea, with green and white teas and
tea for 10 years now,” says Vesely.
skin-enhancing herbs.
Growing tea here is an ongoing experiment, but the couple
Cubelic buys tea from small, organic growers, produced
continues to expand, with another 300 tea bushes to plant
without the pesticides and chemical fertilizers common in
this spring.
the industry, and never uses artificial flavours. Loose tea is
“Our oldest tea bushes are only 10 years old but they will be in the ground for hundreds of years,” she adds. “We are still evolving.”
her preference, but when customers asked for tea in bags, she spent years searching for the proper bagging material, finally settling on a fully compostable pouch made with plant fibre and absolutely no plastic.
was saved through a heroic community effort and is now owned and protected by The Land Conservancy. Barb Gunn operates the Teahouse and a team of 30 volunteers tends the gardens. Chef Jamie Cummins is in the kitchen, and whether it’s the tiny crab quiche or the bite-sized Salt Spring lamb sausage roll, every morsel has a local connection. Some menu items channel the prince’s Georgian heritage — The Royal Abkhazi High Tea includes a buckwheat blini topped with cold smoked salmon, crème fraiche, and dab of black caviar. And the Georgian Lunch features traditional eggplant badrijani with walnut paste, roasted chicken with tkemali plum sauce, beet and green bean pkali purées, and lobio, a Georgian dish of baked beans served with cornbread. The sweets are equally seductive. A pearl of creamy panna cotta floats in rose syrup, and a tender scone studded with currants and candied orange peel is served with housemade jam and clotted cream alongside. You can also choose abbreviated Elevenses, vegetarian or
Her goal has always been to teach Victorians about high quality tea. “I felt that if people understood and were exposed to tea more in the way that I had been, that they would fall in love with tea as I have,” Cubelic says, “and even more important, that it would benefit their well-being.”
THE TEAHOUSE AT ABKHAZI GARDEN For sheer romance and beauty, nothing beats tea at Abkhazi Garden.
22 AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2020
house, a hidden gem built by the late Prince Nicholas and
gluten-free nibbles alongside a pot of Abkhazi Blend tea, created for the tea room by Silk Road Tea. Then peek into the gift shop before exploring the garden with its towering rhododendrons and Japanese maples among the rocky outcrops and Garry Oaks. Peggy Abkhazi built this urban oasis with her husband and always generously invited anyone to visit. It’s still open to all, by donation, and as you wander the peaceful pathways, you can feel their welcoming presence.
WHITE HEATHER TEA ROOM Named by the original Scottish owner, the busy little Oak Bay tea room serves several variations on the traditional afternoon tea service, from the Big Muckle to the Wee Tea. All feature warm savouries, fluffy scones, and home-style
They call it “the garden
baking from their own kitchen, and that’s what really sets
that love built,” and there’s
the White Heather apart. PHOTO: ISTOCK.COM/ARX0NT
Shelley Hsu purchased the tea room three years ago and she’s kept the same talented pastry chef and cook, adding her own layer of warm hospitality to the mix. “It’s all about slowing down, relaxing, and enjoying every morsel,” says her daughter, Chi-Ling Cheng. The thick wedges of traditional shortbread— some flecked with Earl Grey and lavender tea—are buttery and snappy, as good and authentic as any you’ll find. There are tiny quiches and toasty croustades filled with sharp cheese, as well as artfully rolled tea sandwiches with ham, egg, cream cheese, and cucumber. Attention to detail is apparent in every aspect of the tea service, whether it’s the perfectly sliced oranges and grape “tulips” in the fruit salad or the dainty squares. You can also order a take-away tea packed in a beautiful box or basket. Each offering will introduce you to the simple joy of afternoon tea—with friends or as a solo getaway.
Tea for You
This is by no means a complete list. Consider this a starting point. JagaSilk 778-430-5683 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .633 Courtney St, Victoria Willows Beach Tea Room 250-592-1612 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2740 Dalhousie St, Victoria Murchie’s Tea 250-381-5451 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1110 Government St, Victoria Pendray Tea House 250-388-3892 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .309 Belleville St, Victoria Tea at the Empress 250-389-2727 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 721 Government St, Victoria
Silk Road Tea 250-382-0006 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1624 Government St, Victoria Venus Sophia Tea Room 250-590-3953 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .540 Fisgard St, Victoria White Heather Tea Room 250-595-8020 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1885 Oak Bay Ave, Victoria Butchart Gardens Dining Room 250-652-8222 . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800 Benvenuto Ave, Brentwood Bay Westholme Tea Company 250-748-3811 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8350 Richards Trail, Duncan Winston’s Tea Company 250-751-1031 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101-3200 N Island Hwy, Nanaimo Please check websites to confirm opening & hours of business. PHOTO: ISTOCK.COM/LISOVSKAYA
An indie brewery committed to the craft of beer Bringing award winning craft beer to Sooke since 2016 Tasting room - growler fills - bottle sales @Sookebrew (778)-352-2739 #1-5529 Sooke Road
WORLD’S BEST CONTEMPORARY GIN WORLD GIN AWARDS 2019
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The Teahouse At Abkhazi Garden 778-265-6466 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1964 Fairfield Rd, Victoria
S O O K E & S H I R L E Y
23
Masterclass
Summer’s Sweetest Bounty ’Tis the season of lush, BC berries
W
hether your baking is rustic or refined, we’ve got some great ideas for show-
R ECIPE S + T E X T
S T Y L ING + PHO T OGR A PH Y
Denise Marchessault
Deb Garlick
casing the season’s bounty: sun-ripened berries and sweet cherries. And BC has plenty to offer—our homegrown raspberries and prized cherries
account for the bulk of Canada’s production. And did you know the Fraser Valley is one of the top blueberry-producing regions in the world? So while our kitchens remain a safe haven this summer, let’s embrace this unprecedented baking revival with BC’s sweetest resource. There’s no better way to show off plump blueberries and sweet blackberries than tucked into a galette laced with a touch of almond cream. With no fussy crimping or pie plate involved, galettes come together easily. It’s as simple as scattering sugar-dusted berries onto a rectangle of pastry, then folding the edges to encase the fruit. Once baked, the galette is topped with fresh berries. Served warm with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, a berry galette sums up the best of summer. If your tastes veer towards a more delicate pastry, you’ll enjoy these classic fruit tarts filled with a dollop of jam and a luscious, rum-spiked custard. The pastry, similar to a rich buttery shortbread, comes together as easily as cookie dough and can be baked days in advance (and frozen even longer). The custard, too, can be made in advance, and because it’s stabilized with gelatin, it won’t become weepy or runny like some creamy fillings. Although the galette and tarts are made from completely different doughs, the techniques for managing them are much the same. And once you’ve mastered the fundamentals, nothing will throw you off your pastry game. Cookbooks tell us that pastry requires a light touch and minimal use of flour. But that’s difficult to practice when your dough is sticking to everything in sight. The way around this is to place your dough on a sheet of parchment paper dusted with flour; then cover the dough with plastic wrap. You can then roll a rolling pin over the plastic wrap to flatten the dough. This prevents the dough from sticking to your work surface and rolling pin. More important, it prevents you from adding too much flour or overworking the dough. And it doesn’t make a mess of your kitchen! Time and temperature also play an important role. Dough needs to be refrigerated to allow the fat to firm and the gluten to relax (which makes it easier to roll out). Chilling also prevents the dough from shrinking when in the oven. Because dough contains a high ratio of fat, it’s easiest to handle when cool. If your dough becomes too warm and floppy to manage, return it to the fridge to firm up. Likewise, if your dough is cold and too firm to manage, leave it on the counter for a couple of minutes before handling. Yes, handcrafted pastry takes a bit of patience, but the results are far better than anything you can buy pre-made. There’s no better time to explore the art of baking, so grab an apron and let the flour fly! BC’s berries deserve your homemade best. 24 AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2020
The dusty finish on blueberries, the ‘bloom’, is a sure sign of freshness. It serves as a protective barrier against insects and bacteria and it seals in moisture. Rinse blueberries just before using.
Berry Tarts
Makes a dozen 3½-inch tarts. If you prefer to make two dozen miniature (2½-inch) tarts, reduce the custard filling by half. The pastry and custard can be made days in advance, but assemble the tarts no more than an hour before serving. 12 (3½-inch) tart shells made with Sweet Tart Dough (See recipe p26) 1 recipe Custard, below ½ cup berry preserves or jam 4 cups fresh assorted berries
Custard 1 package (1 Tbsp) gelatin, divided 1½ cups whole or 2% milk 3 egg yolks ⅓ cup granulated sugar, divided 3 Tbsp all-purpose flour 2 Tbsp rum, cognac, or Grand Marnier, optional 1 cup cold whipping cream Chill a small mixing bowl in the fridge (for the whipping cream).
Putting It All Together
Up to an hour before serving, spread the base of each tart with about 1-2 tsp of preserves. Fill the tart with custard and smooth the top with a knife. Garnish with your choice of fresh berries.
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Blueberry-Blackberry Galette
In a small bowl, combine the Almond Cream ingredients and mix well. Spread the Almond Cream over the pastry, leaving a 2-inch border on each side.
Serves 6-8.
Combine the yolks in a small bowl with the remaining sugar and whisk until smooth. Add the flour and mix until well incorporated (the mixture will be very thick at this stage). Thin the mixture with half the warm milk, mix well, then pour the mixture back into the saucepan. Stir constantly over medium heat with a small whisk or a wooden spoon; the mixture will thicken as it cooks. When the custard comes to a low boil, stir for a continuous minute, then remove from heat. Whisk in the gelatin mixture until completely combined. Stir in the alcohol, if using. Transfer to a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap so that the plastic touches the custard (this prevents a skin from forming). Once the mixture cools to room temperature, refrigerate until firm, up to three days. Pour 1 Tbsp water into a small bowl and sprinkle the remaining gelatin (1½ tsp) over it (aim to disperse it evenly over the water). Set aside for a couple minutes. Pour the whipping cream into the chilled bowl and whisk, with an electric mixer, to a soft peak.
Pour half a package (1½ tsp) gelatin in a small bowl or cup. (Reserve the other half for the whipping cream.)
Microwave the soaked gelatin about 5 seconds or just until it melts and achieves a syrup-like consistency. Stir until smooth. Once the gelatin cools to room temperature, pour it into the whipping cream in a slow steady stream while you whisk the cream to a stiff peak. (If you rush it, the gelatin can clump.)
Heat the milk in a medium saucepan with 2 Tbsp of the sugar. Bring to a simmer, then remove the pan from the heat. Pour about ¼ cup of the milk in with the gelatin and mix with a fork or small whisk until completely smooth.
Stir the custard with a spatula to loosen it (it should be thick and gelatinous). Fold or whisk the chilled whipped cream into the custard, in two or three batches, until well combined. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
A layer of parchment is placed under the pastry (to prevent it from sticking to the mold) and over the pastry to hold the pie weights.
Putting It All Together
Place the chilled pastry onto a baking sheet lined with parchment and dusted with flour.
Prepare the Flaky Pastry Dough (recipe p26) according to the instructions. You won’t need all the pastry for this recipe.
In a large bowl, combine the sugar and cornstarch. Add 2 cups of the fresh blueberries and 2 cups of the fresh Transfer the dough to a sheet of parchment blackberries and toss to combine. Tip the berries, sugar and cornstarch dusted with flour. Cover the dough with mixture onto the Almond Cream, being plastic wrap and roll the dough over the mindful to retain the border. plastic wrap, approximately 1/8” thick. Cut into a rectangle 10-by-15 inches. Brush the corners with the whipping Refrigerate or freeze the remaining dough cream or beaten egg and fold the pastry for another use. borders over the filling toward the centre to create a neat rectangular package. Brush the exposed pastry with additional cream or beaten egg and sprinkle with the sugar. Dot the exposed fruit with the butter.
Blueberry Blackberry Galette featured on cover To prevent the pastry from bunching at the corners, cut a wedge from each corner. This will prevent excess pastry when folding (think gift-wrapping a box). Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.
Almond Cream 2 Tbsp unsalted butter, room temperature 2 Tbsp icing (powdered) sugar ¼ cup + 1 Tbsp ground almonds 1 egg yolk, lightly beaten 1 Tbsp rum, cognac, or Grand Marnier, optional
Bake in a preheated oven 20 minutes; then reduce the temperature to 375°F and continue to bake another 20-25 minutes, or until the pastry is cooked through. Rotate the pan during baking and cover loosely with foil once the pastry is golden. Cool on a wire rack. Once the galette has cooled, spread the remaining fresh berries over the filling. Serve at room temperature or rewarmed. Delicious with vanilla ice cream.
Ingredients ¼ cup + 3 Tbsp granulated sugar 3 Tbsp cornstarch 3 cups fresh blueberries, divided 3 cups fresh blackberries, divided 1 Tbsp whipping cream (35%) or lightly beaten egg 1 Tbsp coarse or granulated sugar, for the pastry’s edges 2 tsp unsalted butter, cut in small pieces 25
Flaky Pastry Dough
2¾ cups all-purpose flour 1 tsp table salt ½ lb lard, vegetable shortening or unsalted butter cut into 1- to 2-inch pieces 1 Tbsp white or cider vinegar 1 egg, lightly beaten 1 cup ice-cold water Parchment paper Plastic wrap Place the flour and salt in a large bowl and mix well with a fork or a whisk. Cut the lard into the flour with a pastry blender or two knives until the mixture is crumbly with some larger (bean-sized) pieces of flour-coated lard, along with the finer particles. In a measuring cup with a spout, combine the egg, vinegar and enough ice water to equal 1 cup; mix with a fork. Gradually pour about half the liquid into the flour and mix with a fork, adding only enough additional water to make the dough cling together in an untidy mass. (You likely won’t use all the water.) Transfer the dough to a sheet of parchment dusted with flour and shape it into a rough squat disk using your
26 AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2020
hands, being mindful not to overwork the dough. Cover with a sheet of plastic wrap, and roll the dough, over the plastic, into a disk about half an inch thick (it will be rolled thinner later). Cover completely with plastic wrap and refrigerate.
combined. Add the flour and salt and combine just until the mixture comes together and forms a soft dough.
Sweet Tart Dough
Line the tart molds with the paper baking cups or parchment paper cut to size (the balance of the baking cups/parchment will be used later). The molds need to be completely covered with paper, otherwise you won’t be able to release the tarts without breaking them. (It’s fine if your paper overlaps the molds.)
Makes a dozen 3½-inch tarts or two dozen miniature (2½-inch) tarts. 1 cup unsalted butter, room temperature ⅔ cup icing (powdered) sugar 4 large egg yolks, room temperature 2½ cups flour, plus extra for rolling the dough ¼ tsp table salt
Equipment 12 3½-inch tart molds and 24 parchment paper squares, cut to size (approx. 5½-inch) OR 24 2½-inch tart molds and 48 miniature parchment baking cups Pie weights, beans, or rice (to prevent the pastry from buckling in the oven) Refer to picture p25. In the bowl of a standup mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, or a medium bowl, cream together the butter and icing sugar. Add the yolks and mix until
Shape the dough into a disk about a ½ inch thick. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate 40 minutes.
Remove the dough from the fridge and place it onto a sheet of parchment lighted dusted with flour. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and roll the dough, over the plastic wrap, to approximately ⅛ inch thick. Remove the plastic and cut the dough into circles slightly larger than your tart mold, using a cup or a small bowl as a guide, gathering and rerolling any remaining scraps. Carefully transfer the circles of dough with a spatula, or your hands, to the paper-lined molds. Cover with plastic wrap and gently press the dough
(through the plastic) against the molds’ edges and base, aiming for a uniform layer. (If the dough becomes too soft to work with, refrigerate until firm.) Cover and refrigerate for 40 minutes. Preheat oven to 375°F. Remove the plastic wrap from the tart molds and pierce the base and sides of the pastry with the tines of a fork, as pictured. Cover each with a baking cup or square of parchment and fill with pie weights, beans, or rice to the top of the mold. Place the tarts on a baking tray, leaving plenty of room between each. (You’ll need two baking trays.) Bake 20 minutes in a preheated oven, turning the baking trays once during baking to ensure the tarts bake evenly. Remove the tarts from the oven and carefully remove the pie weights and parchment or baking cups. Return the tarts to the oven and continue to bake, uncovered, another 5-7 minutes or until the pastry is browned and cooked through. Cool on baking rack and do not remove the molds until the tarts have cooled completely.
Cucina Italiana
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