EAT Magazine January | February 2022 by EAT Magazine

R E S TAU R A N T S | R E C I PE S | W I N E S | F O O D | C U LT U R E

Smart. Local. Delicious.

C OLD WEATHER C OMFORT S

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JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2022 ISSUE 26-01

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JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2022

Welcome Here’s to the start of a happy and healthy 2022. We can’t wait to see what this year brings—new restaurants, new foods, new cocktails, and new starts. Appreciating that the success of EAT depends on our restaurants, hotels, food purveyors, breweries, wineries, and distilleries, thank you to all our advertisers for their continued support of EAT during a very challenging year. We are also very proud of how the EAT community has rallied; thank you to our loyal readers for supporting local businesses and our advertisers. Shorter days, longer nights, and the chill in the air make me crave slow simmered stews, thick and hearty soups, warm desserts—food that warms you from the inside out. In England, bangers and mash, shepherd’s pie and sticky toffee pudding are high on the list; in Italy, polenta, canederli (bread dumplings served with melted butter or broth), and ribollita (a winter vegetable soup) are on the menu; in France, beef bourguignon, cassoulet, or a pot of hot chocolate might be on order. Winter brings with it a craving for warmth and comfort and EAT delivers in this issue. We want to surround our readers in that warmth and comfort. From the nostalgia of kitchen tools your grandmother or mother used that are still useful today (Cinda Chavich’s Top Drawer Vintage pg 16) to fondues and raclettes (Shelora Sheldan’s Side Dish pg 19). Our recipes also bring warmth. Masterclass focuses on a lentil soup and flatbread (pg 24), Rebecca Wellman brings us lemony beans on toast (pg 14), and Jennifer Danter adds a tex-mex spin to a loaded baked potato soup (pg 20). Larry Arnold has rounded up some heartier wines to go with the weightier winter dishes (pg 5), and I’ve shared a favourite family recipe for a lemon pudding cake (pg 26) that I could eat for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

- EAT MAGAZINE Exceptional Eats! Reader’s Choice Awards

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2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

OPEN ALL DAY, EVERY DAY! Open Daily 11:30am-8:00pm

Italy within reach. 2401-B Millstream Rd. | www.900degrees.ca

To get us out of the house, we’re off to to The Bikery in the Victoria Public Market, HOB Fine Foods in Langford, and Elizabeth Monk gets spicy with suggested restaurants in Eating Well for Less (pg 6). The EAT team hopes this issue warms the souls of you, our dear readers, as much as it warmed ours creating it.

Cynthia Annett -Hynes

CYNTHIA ANNETT-HYNES EDITOR

NOTE: In our Nov|Dec 2021 issue, we neglected to credit writer Daniel Murphy for his contribution to Food for Thought. Our apologies to Daniel, whose interview with Clif Leir of Fol Epi was the jumping off point for Gillie Easdon’s final article.

On the cover:

Lemony Braised Beans Styling + Photography:

Rebecca Wellman

Recipe on page 14

Visit eatmagazine.ca for more articles, recipes, news and events. 3

JANUARY / FEBRUARY

CITY EATS

Superflux Cabana has opened upstairs at 804 Broughton St (the former location of The Livet). Featuring lots of Superflux beer and a menu that complements it (burgers, fries, crab rolls and griddle pies). Open Wednesday– Sunday 4pm–10pm (12am on Friday and Saturday). (superfluxcabana.com) Perfect for winter noshing, Eva Schnitzelhaus is a new German and Swiss-inspired eatery at 509 Fisgard St. Open for dinner Wednesday–Sunday, find four different kinds of schnitzel and classic sides such as braised red cabbage, roesti and spaetzle. (evaschnitzel.com) The winter is always a quieter season for restaurant openings, making it the perfect time to visit some of the 2021 newcomers you may have missed. The Palms, L’Apero Wine and Cheese Bistro and Momi Noodle House would all be good choices. (thepalmsrestaurant.ca, laperobistro.net, mominoodle.com)

Looking to expand your cooking repertoire this year? Chef Dan Hayes, aka The London Chef is offering a series of internationally themed in-person cooking classes at Sea Cider this January. Learn to create the tastes of rustic Italian, India or Morocco. Chef Dan also offers online cooking classes. (thelondonchef.com) The Hotel Grand Pacific will be hosting the popular Victoria Whisky Festival again this year. The Festival will hold a limited number of Masterclasses & Grand Tastings per day and where required presenters will conduct their events remotely. All events will take place in the Vancouver Island & Pender Island Ballrooms. Due to the Covid-19 pandemic, the VIP and Consumer Tastings will not be held at the 2022 Festival. Jan. 13–16. (victoriawhiskyfestival.com) Destination Greater Victoria and the BC Restaurant & Foodservices Association (BCRFA), Victoria Branch, are once again teaming up to organize the always popular Dine Around & Stay in Town Victoria. From Jan 20–Feb 6, over 50 of Victoria’s best restaurants offering set three-course menus at deliciously low prices. Both locals and visitors alike delight in the wide range of culinary experiences and host of world-class accommodations to be had in the Greater Victoria area. (tourismvictoria.com/eat-drink/dine-around)

REBECCA BAUGNIET

Chef Castro Boateng is presenting a multi-course tribute to his culinary mentors with a Mentor Long Table Dinner at HOB Fine Foods on Jan 26. Join Chef Castro as he prepares some of his most memorable dishes with the Chefs who have mentored him throughout his 20-year career in the culinary industry. Chef Castro will take you to Scotland where he first fell in love with cooking while working alongside Chef Colin Watson & Duncan Stewart. For the second course, you will travel to the tropics and get a chance to taste food from Chef Castro’s time with Michael Scott at the Newport Room in Fairmont Bermuda. Next stop is Banff, where you will taste the flavours of Chef Yoshi Chubachi. Finally, the night will end in Victoria, and Chef Castro will prepare two final dishes inspired by Chef Christophe Letard and Chef Ito Takashi. (hobfinefoods.ca) Concerned about food security, but not sure where to get started? Edible Landscapes Design is offering an online workshop on Edible Plants for Emergencies on Jan 29. This online workshop focuses on edible plants that are particularly useful in the context of emergencies. The focus will be on widely available wild plants, nutrientdense “weeds,” and fast-growing annual plants that ensure a quick and abundant harvest. Edible Landscapes Design is also presenting an in-person 2-day workshop on how to Grow Your Own Food Forest on Feb 12–13. Visit their website for more information and to register. (ediblelandscapedesign.com) The new HOB Fine Foods is also presenting an Africaninspired cooking class on Feb 1. Take your senses on a culinary journey, exploring the exotic flavours of African cuisine as you prepare two of Chef Castro’s favourite dishes. You will learn to cook and enjoy two dishes plus chef will serve a dessert to finish off the evening in style. The class will feature Fried Red Snapper with Jollof Rice and Ghanaian Style Egusi and Spinach Stew with Roasted Yam. For more information and to register, visit their website (hobfinefoods.ca). ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK.COM/COSMAA

FOUNDER

Gary Hynes PUBLISHER

Pacific Island Gourmet EDITOR

Cynthia Annett-Hynes CONTRIBUTING EDITOR/COPY EDITOR

Carolyn Bateman SENIOR WINE WRITER

Larry Arnold LAYOUT AND DESIGN

Cynthia Annett-Hynes PRODUCTION AND DESIGN

Rhonda Ganz REGIONAL REPORTERS

Victoria, Rebecca Baugniet CONTRIBUTORS

Acorn Art & Photography Dean Casavechia Cinda Chavich Jennifer Danter Jacqueline Downey Deb Garlick James Ingram Jennifer Jellett Jive Photographic Denise Marchessault Elizabeth Monk Elizabeth Nyland Adrian Paradis Adrien Sala Shelora Sheldan Amanda Swinimer Johann Vincent Rebecca Wellman REGIONAL/NATIONAL ACCOUNT MANAGER

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Ron Metella CONTRIBUTING AGENCIES

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JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2022

Liquid Assets

NEW WINES FOR A NEW YEAR

A selection of tasty winter treats to have on hand for everyday enjoyment.

Reichsrat Von Buhl Armand Riesling Kabinett 2019 Germany $29.00 Reichsrat Von Buhl is family-owned, organic, and owns some of the best vineyards in the Mittelhaardt. The winery is relentless in its pursuit of excellence, and the wines across the board reflect this obsession. The 2019 is surprisingly rich and full-bodied for a simple Kabinett but is nicely balanced with lush fruit nuances and refreshing acidity. Tedeschi Capitel Tenda Soave Classico 2018 Italy $22.00 Tedeschi Capitel Tenda Soave is 100 percent Garganega, made exclusively from grapes harvested in the family’s 29-hectare vineyard in the heart of Soave. Pale straw in colour, it possesses subtle floral, peach, and bitter almond notes on the nose and through the palate. Good weight with a slight viscosity and a dry savoury finish. Poplar Grove Okanagan Valley VQA Pinot Gris 2020 BC $20.00 Pinot Gris is a hallmark of the Okanagan Valley and Poplar Grove Pinot Gris does not disappoint. Pale gold in colour with intense apple, peach, and citrus aromas, it is very rich with juicy citrus and apricot flavours balanced with a cut of mouthwatering acidity. Kettle Valley Chardonnay 2018 BC $22.00 This wine is a blend of fruit from the Similkameen and Okanagan Valleys. A portion of the juice was fermented in older French oak barrels and aged sur lie before bottling. Sweet scents of baked apples, lemon balm and smoke render the wine ripe but not over the top, with a broad mouth-filling texture and subtle apple and pear flavours giving way to toasty yeasty notes through the finish. Top-notch BC Chardonnay, elegant and restrained. Bartier Bros. Cerqueira Vineyard Okanagan Valley VQA Syrah 2019 BC $30.00 It’s great to follow the development of Pacific Northwest Syrah over the past few decades, in particular, that of British Columbia. The 5.9-hectare Cerqueira

LARRY ARNOLD

Vineyard, located on Black Sage Terrace just outside of Oliver, was planted at the turn of this century and was purchased by Don and Michael Bartier in 2015. Very polished with a tight core of concentrated fruit seamlessly integrated with a sheen of fine-grained tannins. There’s a lot going on here with layers of blackberry, mineral, black pepper, and violets on the nose and through the palate. A real cracker. (Winery direct ordering.) Château Canada Bordeaux Supérieur 2018 France $21.00 Despite challenging weather conditions in the early going, 2018 is considered by wine pundits to be an excellent and possibly even legendary vintage. This is a very good thing, especially if you are seeking potable claret at the very bottom of the quality pyramid. If this is your sorry financial reality, cheer up. I think we have a winner here. Deep ruby colour with great intensity and a nose redolent with black cherry, cedar, and leafy herbal aromas. Nicely balanced with sweet fruit flavours and firm tannins. Great grip with a lovely savoury character. Cecchi Storia Di Famiglia Chianti Classico 2016 Italy $20.00 Storia Di Famiglia is made from juice sourced from Cecchi’s younger vineyards. It is predominately Sangiovese with a small amount of Canaiolo and Colorino. Medium-bodied with red cherry, spice, and dusty earth aromas, it is nicely balanced with ample fruit flavours, bright acidity, and a firm chewy structure. Talamonti Moda Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2019 Italy $15.00 This full-bodied and robust Montepulciano has a fruity bouquet of red cherries, plums, and raspberries. On the palate this hearty red is very concentrated with dense fruit flavours, soft but firm tannins, and a long, spicy finish. Monte Del Frá Bardolino 2019 Italy $17.00 Bardolino is a pretty little village and wine region along the south shore of Lake Garda, just northwest of Verona in the Veneto region of Italy. The countryside is stunningly beautiful and the wines produced there are, by and large, simple and delicious. Bardolino is basically a lighter version of Valpolicella, for the most part a blend of Corvina, the main red grape of the region, Rondinella and Molinara. Young and juicy, with tart cherry, red currant, and savoury herbal flavours, it is very dry with a patina of fine tannin and a simple, clean finish. For the best results, try serving this delicious Italian red slightly chilled. *Prices may vary and do not include tax and deposit.

Eating Well For Less

SPICE, TWICE

Two restaurants, one Indian, one Chinese, are taking their vegetarian dishes to new heights of flavour and innovation.

Royal Aroma

2470 BEACON AVE., NEAR THIRD STREET, 778-351-3543

Join us for a memorable Afternoon Tea experience at The Teahouse at Abkhazi Garden Reservations Strongly Recommended

778-265-6466 1964 Fairfield Rd. Victoria Open every day 11am–4pm

Complete menu online: www.abkhaziteahouse.com

THIS INDIAN RESTAURANT, WHICH has been in Sidney for a year and in Campbell River for five, is experimenting with innovative vegetarian dishes on top of the regular meat dishes. Right from the appetizer menu, the restaurant sets itself apart from other Indian restaurants with some creative modern twists. First, paneer, a dense cottage cheese, is made playful by treating it like a chicken wing. The experienced chef and owner, Raj Chauhan, dusts rectangles of paneer with cornstarch, deep-fries them, coats them with a rich honey garlic sauce, and sprinkles them with sesame seeds and pieces of cooked garlic. Chauhan’s take on cauliflower wings, this time with Indo-Chinese spices, features chunks of cauliflower covered in chickpea flour, fried, then tossed in a sauce that is rich, deep, and dark from the slowly cooked garlic. This dish has a meaty mouthfeel. Both dishes go for $9.95. More traditional to India is a thali, basically an Indian bento box. This is another way Royal Aroma sets itself apart from other Indian restaurants in town. Thali lunches are available every lunch from Monday to Saturday, except for Tuesday, and are a great way for a solo diner to sample several menu items. They range in price from $15.95 to $21.95, depending on which proteins you choose. My Chicken Thali came with pappadum and chicken pakora as starters, and then three separate curries. The coconut chicken came in a delightful sauce of coconut, cream, onion, garlic, cardamom, cinnamon, and bay leaf. The mixed vegetable curry had zucchini and green beans in a tomato base. The third curry, a complex yellow lentil dahl, had lots of ginger and a masala spice blend. I hardly had room left for the creamy rice pudding with a hint of cardamom. Royal Aroma is definitely worth a visit, whether to its Sidney or Campbell River location.

ELIZABETH NYLAND

Uniquely curated. Exceptionally Preserved. saltspringkitchen.com

The Royal Mix Platter (foreground) with a selection of papadam, Vegetable Mughlai Korma, Tikka Masala, and rice. 6

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2022

ELIZABETH MONK

Momi Noodle 554 PANDORA AVE., NEAR GOVERNMENT STREET, 778-265-8081

MOMI NOODLE PRIDES ITSELF on offering noodle dishes from different regions of China. This concept is the brainchild of Sherry Guo, a young recent graduate of the Royal Roads restaurant management program. Her modern approach can be seen in the bright, airy space, in the fruit and bubble tea offerings, and in a menu that combines traditional fare with a greater than usual number of vegetarian dishes. Two noodle soups are from Guo’s hometown of Guilin in South China. The Hot and Sour Noodles for $13.95 have a fan of roast pork and braised beef on each side—these can be omitted for a vegetarian version. Six adorable little side dishes come with it to add to the noodles: bamboo shoots, sauerkraut, pickled cowpeas, a carrot radish, a mix of seasoned peanuts and fried soybeans, and some cilantro. Once you’ve eaten half the noodles, you can add the accompanying soup stock, to create both a regular noodle and a noodle soup experience. The Pork Knuckle Rice Noodles for $16.95 are a favourite of the Chinese clientele, no wonder since the meat is so rich it seems almost caramelized, and the soup is simmered for hours with 10 different herbs.

The Pacific Restaurant at the Hotel Grand Pacific is excited to be once again offering our unique à la carte or three-course Fondue. 7 days a week | 5pm - 9pm Seating is limited, make your reservations now | 250.380.4458

Don’t leave without trying the Chinese-style Fried Potatoes from the appetizer menu for $5.95. These deep-fried potato cubes are seasoned with soy sauce, vinegar, and homemade chili oil, and put even the best French fries to shame. The side dish menu also has Tiger Eggs for $3 each. The eggs are seasoned in a herbal mixture, then deep-fried, creating a fascinating rippled exterior.

463 BELLEVILLE ST VICTORIA, BC | HOTELGRANDPACIFIC.COM

For dessert, I had the best mung bean cake I’ve ever had—moist and not too sweet. The red dates stuffed with sweet rice and dipped into a sauce of honey and osmanthus flower are a playful and delightful way to finish the meal. Momi Noodle is merging the traditional with the fresh and modern, an exciting new addition to Victoria’s restaurant scene.

Han dmade Eth i cal L o cal Tradi t i o n al

ELIZABETH NYLAND

CURED AND SMOKED MEATS 2 0 3 2 O A K B AY A V E N U E , V I C T O R I A

250.590.PORK

THEWHOLEBEAS T.CA CU RED@ T H EWH O LEB EA ST.C A

The Guilin Hot and Sour Noodle with rice noodles, pickled cabbage, beef, capers, green onion, and coriander. 7

Reporter The Bikery HOB Fine Foods The Science and Spirit of Seaweed W ORDS

Adrian Paradis Adrien Sala Cinda Chavich

PHO T OGR A PH Y

Johann Vincent Jennifer Jellett Amanda Swinimer

Bull kelp hanging to dry in the seaweed shop AMANDA SWINIMER

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2022

The Bikery

VICTORIA PUBLIC MARKET 778-430-2453

T H E B I K E R Y. C A

Markus Spodzieja, the bike-delivery baker, has opened a brick-and-mortar location in the Victoria Public Market that also happens to be the first kosher bakery in the city. THE SIGNIFICANCE OF A humble loaf of bread cannot be overstated. It is something as old as recorded history and universal across nearly every culture. While to some it has become an object relegated to an aisle in the grocery store, bakeries have historically been a meeting space, a place of community, and a place of significance. “Once you have a bakery, you have a cornerstone and a hub for a community,” says Markus Spodzieja, owner and operator of The Bikery, Victoria’s first kosher bakery, now found in its brick-and-mortar location in the Victoria Public Market at the Hudson.

JOHANN VINCENT

A selection of bagels available at The Bikery

Coming by his trade honestly (he spent his formative years in his father’s bakery in Campbell River), Spodzieja began drawing on his German and Polish roots, selling pretzels, cookies, and other baked goods out of a wood box on the back of his bicycle. While admittedly it was a first attempt, the box he hauled was also a 250-pound plywood behemoth. He took some time away from the business, and then, in 2019, Spodzieja reassembled with a new, more efficient box and started gaining a regular following of clients and delivery spots before the pandemic hit. “I thought about taking some time off and collecting some Covid money,” says Spodzieja. “Instead, my dad gave me some of his old bread recipes, and I moved into a bigger space and started expanding the menu.” Overnight, The Bikery went from a few dozen orders at a time to several hundred.

JOHANN VINCENT

The Bikery has been in operation for some time, albeit in a more transient form. In 2017, having recently graduated from UVic with a Bachelor of Fine Arts, Spodzieja was trying to find his place in the world when he came across an announcement for a pilot bicycle-vending program sponsored by the City of Victoria. Having some baking experience and being known as the guy who would bring pastries and

baked goods to theatre rehearsals, his passion quickly turned into a business plan. “I rented out some kitchen space, built a box for my bike, and I started hitting the streets,” says Spodzieja.

Spodzieja’s menu expansion included bread, baguettes, and challah—a breaded loaf that has significance in the Jewish tradition. Spodzieja began to garner some attention from Victoria’s Jewish community, including that of his now-business partner, Kimanda Jarzebiak. “She saw me making challah, and at this point I had no connection to the Jewish community,” says Spodzieja. “I just really enjoyed the process of braiding bread, and challah uses the same method as pretzels.”

In August of 2021, The Bikery opened its brickand-mortar location in the sunny back corner of the Victoria Public Market and further expanded the menu to chewy bagels, soft honey cakes, and decadent rugelach—something like a Jewish croissant but filled with layers of house-made hazelnut spread. Deliveries are still free (within a radius) and, in keeping with its roots, are done by bike or electric car.

Spodzieja became aware of a niche that had yet to be filled in a community estimated to be roughly 5,000 people in Victoria. “Until now, people who wanted to keep kosher, or even wanted to keep that Jewish connection in their lives, either had to make it themselves or ship it frozen from Vancouver,” he says. Before long, he was being welcomed into the Chabad of Vancouver Island to meet its rabbi and accept a series of family recipes from its attendees. “The rabbi sat down with Kimanda and I and showed us the family recipe for challah they have been using, the recipe we now use at the shop.” Not one to be deterred from a level of responsibility, The Bikery began making products that adhere to the Jewish standard of pareve, meaning no meat or dairy.

In full disclosure, it should be said that this author personally knows Spodzieja. We worked together in kitchens several years ago and have kept in contact since. With as much objectivity as I can muster, I genuinely think he is doing something great. Contributing to a community through the shared experience of bread and ritual is important, especially from someone who has been brought up in, and expressed kinship through, the humble act of baking. When asked where he developed this love of baking, Spodzieja says he has nearly always had this passion. “A really good memory for me is waking up to the smell of my mom’s cinnamon buns drifting through the house. Baking for me has always been a comfort. Baking for me is homey, it’s comfort and a safe space.”

Owner Markus Spodzieja

ADRIAN PARADIS

From Pivot to Plenty HOB FINE FOODS | 2854 PEATT RD., LANGFORD 2 36 - 475 -8063

HOBFINEFOODS.CA

There’s even more House of Boateng’s exceptional food to enjoy since the opening of the restaurant’s gourmet store last fall.

You also need customers—but when government mandates put limits on your operations, what are you meant to do? For chef Castro Boateng, the solution was to shift to a take-and-bake model, which has now grown into a broader business and a second location about 60 metres down the road from the first. HOB Fine Foods is a gourmet marketplace where you can find house-made ingredients from its specialty pantry, discover local artisan products, attend cooking classes, and stock up on frozen, ready-made meals prepared by a talented culinary team. For many people, House of Boateng (HOB) has been a bright light on the culinary horizon of the Westshore since it opened in September 2019. Situated right in the thick of some of the most ambitious construction projects in Langford, the small but mighty location had been almost exclusively a lunch spot, with a few nights a month for special events and a big focus on catering. Famous for its flavourful dishes that are a blend of chef Boateng’s West African roots (he is originally from

10 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2022

JOHANN VINCENT

IF THERE’S ONE THING we’ve learned from the disruption of the past couple years, it’s that the restaurant business is tricky. Margins are tight, supply chains matter, and in order to run a viable operation, you need a skilled team of committed employees.

The welcoming space of HOB Fine Foods Ghana), combined with perhaps a more familiar European style of cooking, the family-run restaurant had been clipping along nicely with dishes like jerk chicken tacos; braised beef short ribs with confit garlic mashed potatoes; and turmeric, black pepper, and ginger sous-vide pears. But then, of course, the pandemic arrived—which, in a way, was a blessing in disguise for Boateng. “As chefs, we realized that we can make the same beautiful food from our restaurant and put it in a to-go container,” Boateng says. But unlike the majority of restaurants that switched to a takeout model, Boateng’s to-go food is prepped in

a fashion that lets you take it and bake it at home on your own time, helping mitigate the potential loss of quality during transport. Giving People What They Want For Boateng, the necessity of the situation was the core driver in its pivot to a take-and-bake model. But what was once a response to a tough situation has now turned into a benefit to a large cohort of families, culinary fans with busy schedules, and those who simply prefer to be at home. “When I looked at the take-and-bake model, I realized how much benefit it was for me personally,” chef Boateng explains. “I’m working eight to ten hours a day. Getting home with the kids, I don’t have to prepare a two-hour meal.” Instead, he can just take a meal from the fridge, pop it in the oven, and focus on time with his wife, Charlotte—who is co-owner of House of Boateng—and their kids.

“We have duck confit mac and cheese as well as regular mac and cheese,” chef Boateng explains. There are also meals like teriyaki pork loin with Japanese steamed rice, bok choy, and sesame seeds; African arancini (four rice balls to a pack); and vegetarian tagine with couscous, chickpeas, root vegetable, and dried fruit—plus so much more. All of the takeout meals have cooking instructions included and are made fresh in-house. The store also doubles as an event space and cooking school, helping bring more of Boateng’s style of cooking to a bigger audience. “If there’s one thing people should know, it’s that [the store] is a place where you’re going to find love and food. We’re not bringing things in based on how much money we’re making. We’re bringing food and products we believe in.” It’s also worth noting that with all of the changes in the past couple years, the House of Boateng restaurant is now doing dinner service several nights a week. Check out the website (hobfinefoods.ca) for all the details on both shop and restaurant. ADRIEN SALA

JOHANN VINCENT

The House of Boateng store stocks a growing list of goods from local producers, showcasing a selection of quality sauces, coffees, and kitchen products that are likely to excite those with a culinary bend (similar to Ottavio or Charelli’s, just smaller for now). The shop is also selling homemade HOB hot sauces and preserves, HOB swag and, of course, its jerk sauce.

But the biggest draw, in this humble writer’s opinion, are the fridges along the side wall stocked with freshly frozen takeout meals that include dishes for both vegetarians and meat-eaters.

HOB owners Castro and Charlotte Boateng

Mermaid of the North Pacific Seaweed harvester Amanda Swinimer’s first book is an ode to seaweed and its critical role in the health and survival of the planet.

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AMANDA SWINIMER HAS SPENT the past 20 years venturing into the cold coastal waters near Sooke to harvest seaweed, earning her the nickname Mermaid of the North Pacific. She’s the woman behind the Dakini Tidal Wilds line of handharvested seaweed products, from dried culinary kelp to healing salves and tea. Now Swinimer has written her first book, The Science and Spirit of Seaweed, an ode to these incredible aquatic plants and the Vancouver Island waters where so many varieties of seaweed can be found. Swinimer is now a seaweed provider, educator, and expert, offering seaweed tours and workshops to teach adults and children how to harvest and use seaweed, and gathering and drying wild kelp for chefs and retail sales. Like her business, the book grew organically, inspired in part by Swinimer’s love of writing but also by her students, who wanted a reference to tap into her wide-ranging knowledge of seaweed. “A few years ago, I decided to start my day writing,” says the single mother of two. “Every morning, for 20 minutes before the dawn came up, before the kids got up, I would just write about anything at all, something different every day, and I found that I was often writing about my experiences in the kelp forest.”

NETTLE PESTO BAKED HALIBUT INGREDIENTS

HOW TO MAKE IT

300g Wild BC Halibut 1 cups blanched stinging nettles 2 cloves garlic zest of 1 lemon 1/4 cup nuts (almonds, walnuts, cashews, pine nuts) 3/4 cups grated parmesan cheese 1/4 cup olive oil

To blanch the nettles, put on a large pot of water to boil. Drop nettles directly into the boiling water from the bag without touching them with your hands. Cook for 1 minute.

250.383.7760

Remove nettles from water to an ice bath, strain and squeeze dry. Place everything except the halibut into a food processor,

27 ERIE STREET

12 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2022

VICTORIA, BC

blender, or mortar and pestle and blend until smooth. Preheat oven to 400F. Spread a thick layer of pesto on the halibut (save any extra for your eggs in the morning) and bake in the oven for 10-15 minutes, depending on thickness. Serve with new potatoes and your favourite spring vegetables!

V8V1P8 | WWW.FINESTATSEA.COM

That narrative thread is the backbone of her unique book, which is part personal memoir and part field guide, filled with detailed information and illustrations of every type of seaweed that can be encountered on our coast, and tips on how to harvest and use it, whether in a recipe or curative spa treatment. Swinimer, a marine biologist, also dives into the science around the medicinal properties of marine algae, for treating cancer, heart disease, and diabetes. The book is illustrated with beautiful photography that brings the coastal environment to life, especially Chris Adair’s imagery capturing Swinimer in her eerie underwater world. It’s the perfect backdrop for her poetic musings about her daily experiences swimming through the ocean swells and forests of kelp, her encounters with coastal creatures, and her spiritual connection to the sea. She also addresses environmental issues facing the world’s oceans, from overfishing to plastic pollution, ocean warming and acidification, and how algae can remediate the latter. “I don’t think there’s any other group of organisms that’s more critical to the survival of the planet—regulating climate, keeping temperatures down, even carbon capture,” she says, “and I don’t think the average person knows that.”

JENNIFER JELLETT

Harvesting salvaged Macrocystis in winter

Swinimer has always supplied top chefs with her handforaged seaweed, and many have contributed creative recipes to the book, from scallop “mortadella” with kelp, to winged kelp crackers, octopus with bull kelp salsa verde, and lingcod baked in kelp. Seaweed is not only tasty, it’s a uniquely concentrated source of vitamins and minerals.

MONTHLY EVENTS AND LIMITED EDITION RELEASES FOR MORE INFORMATION, HEAD TO STRATHLIQUOR.COM/SMWS

“You really don’t need a lot of it to get the health benefits,” she says. “Eating a little bit consistently is the best way—a teaspoon of the flakes, sprinkled onto your food instead of salt or in a smoothie. Bull kelp is really nice crumbled on salads or in omelettes—it has a really salty umami flavour.” When I spoke to Swinimer, she had just returned from the California Seaweed Festival, where she was invited to speak about how seaweed can nourish and clean both the body and the ocean. She has also addressed delegates at Slow Food and Slow Fish gatherings in Italy, sharing her unique expertise and perspective on seaweed. The subtitle of this fascinating book is “Discovering Food, Medicine and Purpose in the Kelp Forests of the Pacific Northwest,” and Swinimer delivers on that promise. “The purpose of the book is really to establish an emotional connection between people and seaweed,” she says, “so that people feel connected to it, and understand just how critical it is for the health and survival of the planet.” CINDA CHAVICH HARBOURPUBLISHING.COM $28.95

IMAGES COURTESY OF HARBOUR PUBLISHING

Victoria’s premier farmers market Est. 1992

Moss St. Farmers Market

Saturdays, year round Winter (Nov-Apr) 10am-1pm

Your meals deserve our best. Shop in person or online, at localline.ca/moss-street-market

MossStreetMarket.com 13

Lemony Braised Beans on Toast The prosaic winter favourite is raised to new heights with lashings of lemon, herbs, and roasted garlic.

R ECIPE + S T Y LING + PHO T OGR A PH Y

Rebecca Wellman 14 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2022

his one-pot dish gains its creaminess from beans cooked twice and mellow roasted garlic. The tomatoes add a bright but deep flavour and, as a condiment, these stand on their own, so double the recipe if you happen upon a big supply of cherry tomatoes. If you have meat lovers around the table, a pan-fried or roasted sausage is a perfect addition, and if you live in Victoria, you have a lot of options. I tried this dish with the Root Cellar’s turkey sausage and they were perfect, though roasted tofu would also work well. The beans are served over buttered sourdough, but also work well over white or brown rice, or as a simple heaping bowl full, all on their own, serving as a bit of a reprieve through this cold and wet season. As with many dishes of this nature, they taste even better the next day, and the beans freeze beautifully if you happen to have leftovers.

Lemony Braised Beans on Toast Serves 8 1 lb dry white beans such as cannellini or navy 4 cups halved cherry tomatoes 1 Tbsp olive oil 1 tsp smoked paprika 2 tsp ground cumin 2 large shallots, thinly sliced 1 rib celery, finely minced ¼ tsp chili flakes 2 Tbsp tomato paste ½ cup dry white wine 5 sprigs fresh thyme 1 long sprig fresh rosemary 2 bay leaves 2 cups chicken or vegetable stock 2 heads garlic, with the top sliced off to expose the cloves 1 Tbsp lemon zest, minced ⅓ cup fresh lemon juice 4 cups fresh spinach, roughly chopped 1 loaf of sourdough or baguette Butter Crumbled feta cheese, fried eggs, and chili flakes for serving In a large pot, cover the beans with water and let soak overnight, at least 9 hours. Drain and rinse the beans, and return to the pot. Add enough water to cover the beans by about 3 inches. Bring to a soft boil, and skim off any foam that accumulates. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook until beans are tender, about 45 minutes.* Drain well.

In a large Dutch oven over medium heat, heat the olive oil. Add the shallots and celery to the pot and cook until softened and translucent, about 10 minutes. Stir in the chili flakes and the tomato paste, and cook for another minute. Add the wine, the cooked beans, and the chicken stock. Season with salt and pepper, then add the thyme, rosemary, and bay leaves. Brush the garlic heads with a bit of olive oil, and nestle the whole heads into the broth. Cover the pot, and place in the oven. Cook until flavours have melded and the beans and the garlic are soft, 60–90 minutes. Remove the bay leaves, and rosemary and thyme stalks from the pot and discard. Transfer the garlic heads to a small plate, and once they are cool enough to handle, pinch the heads to squeeze the cooked garlic out of the cloves, and stir the creamy garlic through the beans. Add the lemon zest, lemon juice, and spinach, and stir until the leaves are wilted. Taste and season with a bit more salt and pepper if needed. Prepare your eggs, fried or poached, then toast 8 slices of bread, and butter while hot. Place each piece of toast in a shallow bowl. Top each piece with beans, prepared tomatoes, chili flakes, and feta. Lay a fried or poached egg on top and serve immediately. *The longer your beans have sat on the pantry shelf, the longer they will take to cook. Adjust simmering time if your beans are a little long in the tooth.

Heat oven to 350°F. Line a large rimmed sheet pan with parchment paper. Toss the tomatoes with the olive oil, smoked paprika, and cumin. Season generously with about 1½ tsp salt and a good grind of freshly ground pepper. Lay out in a single layer on the prepared sheet pan and, stirring occasionally, roast in the oven until softened and jammy, about one hour. Set aside. Leave the oven on.

Top Drawer Vintage W OR D S

PHO T OGR A PH Y

Cinda Chavich

Jacqueline Downey

How many can you name and/or know what it’s used for? (Answers on pg 20)

Vintage kitchen tools are making a comeback as we pivot to more home cooking and baking.

young contestant on a television baking show is puzzled by one of the tools at her workstation. While she’s stumped, I recognize it instantly—a hand-crank food mill, placed there to help her make the apple butter that’s part of the baking challenge.

Like that French food mill, there are other vintage cooking utensils and tools in my kitchen, or at least those with a long history of use and very little change in design. Not only are these pieces sturdy, built in the days before plastic and instant obsolescence, many are more useful than their modern-day counterparts. And as home cooking and baking make a comeback, thanks to a pandemic-forced shift to hearth and home, so do the tools and techniques that your grandmother used in her kitchen. Take the aforementioned food mill. Mine is of European design, a basic stainlesssteel tool that perfectly “rices” boiled potatoes for gnocchi or purees tomatoes

16 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2022

when I’m canning tomato sauce. It has interchangeable discs, with holes designed to handle different jobs, and it’s still made in France, a tool unchanged since it was first designed in the 1930s. Of course, a modern food processor or blender can make a similar puree almost instantly, but only the food mill can remove those pesky skins, making it indispensable in my kitchen. Some vintage kitchen tools aren’t useful anymore, mostly because we don’t really need them. There’s the flour sifter, decorative but redundant when most of the flour we buy today is already sifted. Or the old ice cream maker that relies on rock salt and ice, instead of the more modern, freezable churn. The “cake breaker”—a long-tined fork that resembles a wide-toothed comb—is a useful device to help you cut a delicate angel food cake. But unless you’re a cake baker, it’s likely not worth the

…many old kitchen tools are again in vogue as a new generation discovers traditional techniques…

space in the kitchen drawer. Copper jelly molds are attractive, but who molds jelly? Yet many old kitchen tools are again in vogue as a new generation discovers traditional techniques, from bread baking and canning to sausage and cheese making, grinding grain, or naturally fermenting pickles, kombucha, and sauerkraut. For these classic culinary arts, traditional tools are often the best. The vintage Medalta crock that sits in my kitchen holds a big bag of oatmeal today, but I can press it into service anytime as a fermentation vessel. It’s the perfect Not only size to brine a turkey or pickle a peck of cucumbers.

the provenance of their eclectic inventory. Though they started small, selling antiques from their rented farmhouse, the business soon expanded into its current sprawling space. “What we found was the more functional an item was, the cooler it became for us,” he says, describing customers who buy old butter churns to make butter at home or manual typewriters to inspire their next novel. “What I really like is meeting the people who will use these items,” he says, “and we offer lifetime support for that. We don’t want you to give up.”

The well-curated shop is set up like a museum, with pieces sturdy, built artfully organized My massive wooden batter (or areas devoted to butter) bowl holds a variety of in the days before vintage photography fresh fruit in the kitchen but is also equipment, war useful when making a big batch of plastic and instant memorabilia, and bread dough. other old stuff. But obsolescence, many are the centre of the store Vintage Kitchen Finds is a shrine to the more useful than their At Everything Old, an antique kitchen equipment store in Brentwood Bay, owners modern-day counterparts. of days gone by, Andrew English and Amber with impressive Smith, can’t keep big vintage collections of pudding molds, meat grinders, Pyrex baking bowls, crocks, and other practical kitchen bakers, and collectible cast iron pans, some made equipment on the shelves. Manual juicers are again more than a century ago and still perfectly usable. popular, along with grinders for milling wheat or English says cast iron skillets are particularly popular chopping meat for sausage. Even vintage cookbooks collectibles, with websites devoted to the history and are hot sellers. care of vintage cast iron. It’s a nostalgic thing, he says, And with their online operation and social media but practical, too, because there’s no match for the presence, Everything Old is shipping antique kitchen heat retaining capacity of cast iron when you want ware to customers around the world. “We started this to sear a steak (or its enamel-glazed equivalent for a business after we found an old manual coffee grinder slow-braised stew). A well-seasoned cast iron skillet is that we used at home and became curious about its a natural alternative to chemical-based nonstick pans. history,” says English, who is devoted to researching

are these

Left to right: butter pat cutter, pastry crimper (black handle), pasta/pastry rolling cutter (blue handle), rolling cookie cutter, a hand crank pasta roller and cutting attachment

Some of the funky mid-century serving pieces I love to collect and use are trending, too. Corning Ware, Pyrex, and Fire-King bakers—also friendly in the microwave oven and perfect for making meaty terrines or loaves—are now highly collectible. Creamy-white milk glass bowls, many produced for 1940s and ’50s stand mixers, remain pretty and practical in the kitchen. Vintage pressed-tin muffin pans and baking molds are both functional and cool to display in a country kitchen, and my cast iron muffin pan (and skillet) create corn bread with a lovely golden crust. Mid-century modern serving trays, whether pressed from plywood or fashioned in stainless steel with Bakelite feet, make a statement for cheese and charcuterie. An oversized glass carafe with a spigot is perfect for self-serve lemonade, sangria, or big batch summer cocktails.

What’s Old is New Again While it’s fun to find old-fashioned equipment at antique and thrift stores, some of these culinary tools are making a comeback through companies like Lee Valley or specialty kitchen shops that sell modernized reproductions. I recently purchased a new, vintagestyle ice cream scoop—the metal kind with a little spring-loaded bale that sweeps the frozen ball from the scoop—after frustration with the colourful, modern, silicone kind that always had me digging the ice cream out by hand. It’s also handy for perfectly portioning sticky cookie dough or making meatballs. Lee Valley also sells big Mason Cash mixing bowls— reproductions of the vintage earthenware originals— with thick tactile rims and flattened sides that make them easy for holding and tilting while beating or mixing by hand. Capital Iron has lots of replica tools on the shelf, too, including the modern equivalent of a vintage ceramic crock for pickling, a wide variety of canning equipment, and jars designed to “burp” your fermenting projects. Companies like Lodge still make a full line of cast iron skillets and baking pans, too. You can even find a replica of an old-fashioned cookie press from OXO that employs similar manual technology but with some slight improvements to function. And there are many other old-fashioned kitchen gadgets, from apple peelers and hand-crank pasta machines to cherry pitters and little strawberry stemmers (fat tweezers that are also perfect for pulling bones out of fish fillets), all useful manual tools that have stood the test of time and can be found in kitchen stores around town. 17

Parry Bay Sheep Farm

The Thrill of the Hunt

Metchosin, BC

Parry Bay Sheep Farm along with Stillmeadow Farm sells lamb, pork and roasting chicken to restaurants and butcher shops in Victoria and through our on-farm market in Metchosin. We truly appreciate those who “walk the talk” and support local producers. From picturesque pastures to backyard barbecues Parry Bay lambs make people smile. John & Lorraine Buchanan 250.478.9628 contact@parrybaysheepfarm.com www.parrybaysheepfarm.com

…some of these

As anyone who knows me well will tell you, it’s hard for me to resist a kitchen collectible. I love thumbing through an old cookbook to discover historic recipes, imagining the cook who scribbled notes in the margins, and perhaps used the same kinds of equipment I use myself. Fortunately, vintage kitchenware is both easy to find and often inexpensive to buy, making it fun for any collector. But these are also the simple tools that are simply the best.

culinary tools are making a comeback through companies or

I love the golden creamware and milk glass bowls on display in my kitchen, part of a cookware collection that’s both beautiful and fun to use. But it’s even more exciting to discover an

specialty kitchen shops that sell modernized

interesting old gadget that I can press into culinary service! instagram: @parrybayfarm facebook.com/parrybaysheepfarm facebook.com/ParryBayFarmMarket

reproductions…

NOTE: I’m so fascinated by cast iron I’m devoting a whole story to it in the March|April 2022 issue of EAT, so watch this space for more on this versatile cookware.

12 11

10 9

Name that tool 1. Food mill

2. Three-blade chopper 3. Herb chopper 4. Grapefruit knife 5. Cherry pitter and slicer 6. Apple corer 7. Lemon wedge squeezer

Slaters

8. Green bean frencher 9. Circular whisk

FIRST CLASS MEAT 1983 LTD.

10. Cheese grater

Get fired up for spring! 250.592.0823 ∙ 2577 Cadboro Bay Road 18 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2022

11. Piping tube 12. Jar lid opener

Side Dish

SHELORA SHELDAN

OF FONDUES, TARTIFLETTES AND RACLETTES

In her new column, Shelora Sheldan explores Alpine cheeses through their iconic dishes.

FROM BLOOMY RIND BRIES and Camemberts, pungent washed and ash-ripened wheels, to aged Cheddars and the various styles of blues, cheese is milk’s greatest gift. Curiosity, and getting to know your local cheesemonger, can be the first steps in uncovering the wonders of fromage. And concentrating on a cheesemaking region is another strategy for exploration. The Alpine cheeses of France and Switzerland, for example, produce an abundance of cheeses distinct with flavours of buttery-sweet nuttiness, the result of their cows feeding on natural meadow grasses. The majority are made from raw cows’ milk and include semi-hard, washed-rind, and smear-ripened cheeses—and all are delightful. When melted, they’re transformative, concentrating their flavours with gooey, stretchy, and runny lusciousness. And what’s not to love about a luxurious pot of melted cheese? Let’s dig into a trio of iconic dishes from the region, ones that invite a delicious exploration to share with family or friends. Raclette is a Swiss mountain cheese, aged three to four months. It has a creamy mouth feel, supple and smooth, with a lovely fruitiness that melts on your tongue. While it’s a wonderful table cheese, it has superior melting qualities in a dish of the same name, traditionally served over cooked potatoes, pickled pearl onions, and cornichons, and sprinkled with freshly ground black pepper. An ovenproof casserole or gratin dish in a hot oven gets you on your way to cheese nirvana, or you can buy one of the several non-stick raclette baking pans on the market. Better yet, get a few friends together and enjoy it at the newly opened L’Apéro Bistro. Part fromagerie and deli, L’Apéro offers raclette on their lunch and dinner menus. Owner Page Loten takes a cut wheel of the cheese and melts the cut surface via a portable, Swiss-made heating unit. Ceremoniously, he scrapes the cheese tableside, letting it drape over cured meats plus the requisite pearl onions, cornichons, and potatoes. And, yes, it’s as good as it sounds. (The word raclette comes from the French racler, to scrape.) If you’re planning a raclette party at home, you can purchase the cheese here too. I suggest having it sliced so it melts more easily.

Reblochon, an assertive fromage hailing from the Haute-Savoie region of France, commandeers the rich and comforting dish known as tartiflette. High in butterfat, the raw-milk, washed-rind, and smear-ripened cheese, aged only six to eight weeks, is creamy in texture with a nutty flavour and a beautiful straw-coloured rind. The milk is sourced from three different breeds of cows and in 1958 was the first cheese of the region to be granted AOC certification. (AOC, which stands for appellation d’origine contrôlée, is a classification that protects the style, ingredients, and origin of a product.) Reblochon is also deliciously smelly. (A cheesemonger once told me, “It will leave your house smelling like a chalet in the Swiss mountains for a few days!” I’ll let you be the judge.)

I recently made tartiflette, in individual gratin dishes, layering in slices of cooked potato with onions, sautéed in a bit of wine, partially cooked pieces of good bacon, and sliced Reblochon. A session under the broiler to make it hot and gooey—et voilà. For counterbalance, I recommend a crisp green salad, and the next day, a few extra laps around the park! Last, but not least, the most convivial, cheesy Alpine party dish is fondue. A Swiss invention, where cubes of crusty bread impaled on long skewers are lowered into a communal pot of melted cheese, it really hit its stride in the 1960s and ’70s, along with kaftans and polyester leisure suits. While its popularity has waxed and waned over the years, sleek new fondue kits are readily available, and vintage fondue pots abound at thrift stores. Fondue always make an impression. It can be rolled out for casual gatherings as an appetizer, or as I prefer, a sit-down dish for brunch or dinner, with various other ingredients for dipping, ranging from cooked meats and potatoes to lightly steamed vegetables such as cauliflower, broccoli, and even Brussels sprouts.

You can use a variety of Alpine cheeses, but I like to keep it Swiss with a half-and-half mixture of grated Gruyère and Emmental, both with creamy and nutty characteristics. The basic recipe premise is to first rub the inside of a ceramic-lined or enamel pot with garlic before heating up the pot with a cup of white wine. The grated cheeses, tossed with a bit of cornstarch (to stop the cheese from separating), are added to the wine, slowly heated, and stirred until the mixture achieves molten perfection. A splash of kirsch is a traditional flourish. The pot is brought to table and set above a tea light or container of fondue fuel (methyl hydrate), ready for you and your guests to dip away to your hearts’ content. It’s a wonderful winter repast, and the Hotel Grand Pacific offers à la carte cauldrons for two at their Pacific Restaurant. A mix of Swiss, Gruyère, and Raclette cheeses is brought to table with various dippers, from roasted potatoes and Brussels sprouts, to sausage and chorizo, cornichons, and baguette, with optional “enhancements.” For ultimate fondue fun, there’s a three-course menu that ends with a chocolate fondue. While fondue might be considered a once-in-a-while treat for many, the tradition is serious business at The Farmer’s Daughter. Owners Jessica Sommers and Tom Dai have been offering the classic dish at their Sidney fromagerie/wine bar for the past four years. The Wednesday-only Fondue Nights are fuelled with a top-tier combination of cave-aged Gruyère, Vacherin Fribourgeois, and Appenzeller cheeses—all AOC certified—chosen for their characteristic nutty, sweet, buttery, and grassy flavours. The decadent dish is served with a selection of sides, from roasted cauliflower to cured meats, roasted potatoes, balsamic onions, cornichons, apple, and fresh baguette, with optional wine pairings from the Savoie region. For the for those who prefer to eat at home, The Farmer’s Daughter offers various take-home fondue options, including a luxe party box complete with fondue pot, skewers, cheeses, sides, and recipe. Résistance seems futile! ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK.COM/MCHENRY

Baked Potato in a Bowl Warm-up this winter with this soupy version of a loaded baked potato—and all the fixings, too.

20 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2022

R ECIPE + S T Y L ING

PHO T OGR A PH Y

Jennifer Danter

Jacqueline Downey

re you feeling the chill? This stick-to-your-ribs soup puts a loaded baked potato with all the fixings—grated cheese, sour cream, green onions, bacon—into one big bowl. But don’t stop there. Add your Tex-Mex favourites like crushed tortilla chips, pickled jalapeños, diced avocado—you name it. Soup is a delish way to clean out the fridge. For best results, use russet potatoes and leave the peel on if you like it rustic.

Tex-Mex Loaded Baked Potato Soup Makes 8–10 cups

4 slices thick-cut bacon (try sliced bacon from Berryman Farms, Central Saanich) 4 garlic cloves, minced 2 large leeks (white part only) thinly sliced 1 large celery stalk, diced 1 tsp kosher salt 1 tsp each chili powder, ground cumin, and onion powder 2 cups water 4 cups low-sodium chicken broth 2½ lbs potatoes, preferably russets, peeled and diced 1 cup coffee cream (18 percent) or half-and-half (10 percent) (or go dairy-free and use coconut milk) 1½ cups frozen corn, defrosted

Toppings Shredded cheese, sliced green onion, sour cream, bacon

C I B C WO O D G U N DY B LU E H E R O N A DV I S O RY G R O U P

SUSTAINABLE, ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY INVESTMENT SOLUTIONS

Cook bacon in a Dutch oven set over medium heat until crispy, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove pieces as done and set them aside on a towel-lined plate. Don’t discard any fat. Stir in garlic, leeks, and celery. Sprinkle with salt and spices; stir often until leeks are soft, about 8 minutes. Meanwhile, chop bacon into small pieces. Pour water in pan. Using a wooden spoon, scrape up and stir in any brown spots from the bottom of the pan. Add broth and potatoes. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat; cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are soft and falling apart, 15 minutes. Add cream; simmer 3–5 more minutes. Remove from heat. Using an immersion blender, purée to desired consistency. Some chunks are fine. Stir in corn and heat to warm through. Ladle into bowls and garnish with chopped bacon and other toppings, as desired.

MADE RIGHT HERE ON VANCOUVER ISLAND. Want to make a difference and still meet your financial goals? Let us show you how using proactive Environmental, Social and Corporate Governance (ESG) standards can do just that. We’ve been doing it for years. Right here in Victoria. Contact us today to learn how we help create more sustainable portfolios.

www.blueherongroup.ca 250 361-2284 blueheronadvisorygroup@cibc.ca Neil Chappell and Graham Isenegger are Investment Advisors and Portfolio Managers with the Blue Heron Advisory Group of CIBC Wood Gundy in Victoria BC. CIBC Wood Gundy is a division of CIBC World Markets Inc., a subsidiary of CIBC and a Member of the Canadian Investor Protection Fund and Investment Industry Regulatory Organization of Canada. CIBC Private Wealth Management consists of services provided by CIBC and certain of its subsidiaries, including CIBC Wood Gundy, a division of CIBC World Markets Inc. “CIBC Private Wealth Management” is a registered trademark of CIBC, used under license. “Wood Gundy” is a registered trademark of CIBC World Markets Inc. If you are currently a CIBC Wood Gundy client, please contact your Investment Advisor. Past performance may not be repeated and is not indicative of future results.

NOVA SCOTIA

EAT, DRINK

BE MARITIME

ACORN ART & PHOTOGRAPHY

ova Scotia’s culinary scene has grown exponentially in recent years. From farm-to-table to fresh-out-of-the-ocean, there are exceptional local flavours across the province. But there’s more to culinary than simply eating or drinking. Did you know you can have unique culinary experiences that range from foraging with chefs to guided tastings with head winemakers to checking off all the must-try along a beautiful trail? Nova Scotia’s operators go above and beyond to make your culinary adventure one to remember, no matter if you travelled around the corner or from across the country!

Here are just a few of the many cool culinary experiences on offer in Nova Scotia. Nova Scotia Chowder Trail There are few

Nova Scotian than fresh lobster! On the Lobster Trail, you’ll experience traditional lobster dinners, lobster rolls, creamed lobster, lobster tacos, lobster mac and cheese and everything in between—even lobster beer! From ocean to plate—it’s easy to crack open your sense of adventure on this delicious trail.

E AT S P O N S O R E D P R O M O T I O N

Pommelier paired tasting at Chain Yard Urban Cidery, Halifax TASTE OF NOVA SCOTIA

Nova Scotia Lobster Trail It doesn’t get more

JAMES INGRAM

Enjoying East Coast Outfitters Sea to Table Lobster Adventure, Lower Prospect, South Shore.

things more comforting (or delicious) than a Nova Scotian seafood chowder. A perfect pairing of local seafood and local produce—each bowl tells a story of where it came from. The Nova Scotia Chowder Trail is an ideal way to eat your way around Nova Scotia— just grab a spoon and go!

Nova Scotia Good Cheer Trail Did you know

that the Nova Scotia Good Cheer Trail is Canada’s first and only winery, brewery, cidery, distillery and meadery trail? Taste your way along the trail to learn the stories behind Nova Scotia’s local products— crafted by family traditions, compelling history and of course, exciting innovation.

Seafood chowder

Heli-Picnic Island Escape Take a thrilling

Dining on the Ocean Floor Experience the

ultimate culinary adventure at the site of the world’s highest tides. Savour the best Nova Scotia food, beer and wine in this exceptional experience. Begin by learning about the wild edibles of Nova Scotia, followed by a lunchtime seafood feast where you meet the Chef and enjoy beer and wine pairings. Enjoy a guided tour of the ocean floor, then take a seat at a dining table with a view of the incoming tide for an intimate 3-course dinner on the ocean floor; all followed by an ocean floor campfire.

ACORN ART & PHOTOGRAPHY

Dining on the ocean floor, Burntcoat Head, Bay of Fundy

ACORN ART & PHOTOGRAPHY

private helicopter journey over the city of Halifax along the stunning Nova Scotia coastline to Sambro Island. Indulge in Nova Scotia bubbly on a private beach, explore a secluded cove and enjoy a locally sourced tasting picnic on the island.

Old Town Lunenburg

Lunenburg Distilled Culinary Adventure Take in the colours and characters of Old Town Lunenburg UNESCO World Heritage Site as you explore the waterfront by foot and by boat to discover distiller insights, sample award-winning rum, and enjoy an exclusive gourmet seafood dinner from the deck of the schooner Theresa E. Connor.

Heli-Picnic Island Escape

Boxing Rock Beer School Visit the legendary Boxing Rock Brewing Company in Shelburne for a fun, engaging, craft beer experience tailored just for you. Experience a facilitated tasting experience of 6 unique beers, learning about style characteristics, ingredients, the brewing process and more. Then learn how to perfectly pair food and beer through a locally inspired charcuterie board. Acadian Kitchen Party Indulge in a chef-

TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA

JIVE PHOTOGRAPHIC

prepared dinner at Argyler Lodge featuring authentic stories of local Acadians through food and music, from early days of French Acadie to connections with Cajun cousins in Louisiana to seafaring joie-devivre. Then join locals in a seaside kitchen party and take your turning playing the spoons!

GINstitute by the Sea Go behind-the-scenes Starlight at Trout Point Lodge, Kemptville

Starlight Culinary Escape Indulge in a luxury

wilderness escape at the world’s first starlight hotel, Trout Point Lodge. Savour an artfully prepared Nova Scotia gourmet dinner featuring courses curated by your chef and sommelier. Wind your way along the river and through the forest with your guide, where the depths of the night sky are revealed.

Luckett's Vineyard, Fundy Shore and Annapolis Valley

at award-winning Steinhart Distillery to craft your very own spirits. With ocean views as your backdrop, forage for ingredients and select from an array of spices and citrus to create your unique flavours with the distiller. Savour German-inspired local delicacies, paired with Nova Scotia cocktails, as you perfect your craft.

Grape Escapes Nova Scotia Wine Tours Whether it’s your first time, or your 100th time visiting the Annapolis Valley, there’s always new flavours to explore! Grape Escapes Nova Scotia Wine Tours provides a variety of day tours to Nova Scotia’s renown wine country. Guests will also enjoy appetizers, lunch or dinner, all made from local ingredients.

Gourmet by Nature Wild Food and Tours DEAN CASAVECHIA

Hungry for something different? Gourmet By Nature offers wild food experiences for curious foodies, foragers and nature watchers. Licensed guide and chef, Sean Laceby, hosts a number of wild food workshops, foraging tours and interactive cooking demonstrations, using local, wild Nova Scotian food. Outdoor experiences are offered in all seasons.

Curious about more culinary experiences? Check out the Food & Drink listings on www.NovaScotia.com ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF TOURISM NOVA SCOTIA

Crafting your own spirits at Steinhart Distillery near Antigonish

E AT S P O N S O R E D P R O M O T I O N

Masterclass

Cold Weather Comfort With their satisfying texture and earthy-sweet flavour, nutrient-dense red lentils make the perfect, post-holiday soup.

24 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2022

R ECIPE + T E X T

S T Y L ING + PHO T OGR A PH Y

Denise Marchessault

Deb Garlick

fter the joyful abundance of the holidays, I like to ease into the new year with nutritious soups and stews. And red lentil is my all-time favourite. Protein-rich, economical, and a whopping source of fibre and iron, it’s no wonder lentils have been a staple in so many cultures for thousands of years.

Split red lentils are mild with a subtle, earthy-sweet undertone. They cook quickly (no soaking required) and lend a satisfying texture to soups and stews. In this recipe, the lentils are simmered in a tomato base and seasoned with traditional Indian spices, including fresh ginger and garlic, freshly ground cumin, coriander, and warm curry spice. It is vegan friendly, but chicken stock can replace the water for extra depth. Served with a dollop of tangy yogurt, or a dairy-free substitute, this hearty soup is both comforting and kind to the waistline. You can find lentils in the international aisle of most grocery stores but, despite the packaging, you’re likely buying Canadian. As the world’s largest exporter of lentils, Canada provides more than 150 countries with the dried seed. Saskatchewan accounts for more than 95 percent of the production (owing to prairie climate and soil, technological advances, and innovative processing facilities).

This whole wheat version is particularly light and fluffy owing to a bit of yogurt and a pinch of yeast. The yogurt adds a tangy note and keeps the bread moist and supple. Flatbread can be baked on a preheated pizza stone in a hot oven or cooked over a hot grill. I prefer the latter because I enjoy the charred bits. Flatbread is especially delicious served warm. If you manage to have leftovers, flatbread makes delicious crackers. Simply brush the bread with a bit of oil, sprinkle with kosher salt and bake in a low oven until crisp. (If the flatbread is too thick, it can be sliced in two, horizontally.) Break into pieces and use as a dipping cracker or as croutons in your favourite soup or salad. When the weather’s dreary, I enjoy simple entertaining, and this soup and bread combination is about as no-frills as it gets. Lentil soup, like most soups, tastes even better after lingering a few days in the fridge, so I prepare it in advance. I make the flatbread dough in advance, too (and refrigerate it), and invite friends to roll out, shape, and grill their own flatbread, which always makes for a fun, productive, and creative evening. What better way to ring in the new year?

Lentil soup goes especially well with flatbread, and this recipe comes together easily. If you’ve never made bread, flatbread is a great way to ease into baking. It’s inherently rustic so you needn’t worry about shaping it perfectly.

Red Lentil Soup

Makes about 7 cups

1 Tbsp vegetable oil 1 large onion, coarsely chopped 2 tsp finely minced garlic*, about 2 cloves 2 tsp finely minced fresh ginger*, about 1½-inch piece 2 tsp ground cumin, ideally freshly ground 2 tsp ground coriander, ideally freshly ground 1 Tbsp plus 1 tsp curry powder ¾ tsp kosher salt ½ tsp dried chili peppers 2 cups water (or chicken stock), plus more if needed 1 796 mL (28 oz) can whole tomatoes, crushed with the back of a spoon or briefly processed with an emulsion blender 4 cups red split lentils, picked over (to remove any errant stones) and rinsed 1 Tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice * ideally minced with a microplane

Garnishes Plain Greek-style yogurt (0% fat or full fat) Chopped cilantro or parsley Heat the oil in a large pot and add the onions, stirring to coat in oil. Cook over medium heat until the onions are translucent and starting to brown, about five minutes. Add the garlic, ginger, spices, salt, and dried chili peppers, and stir for about a minute until the onions are coated and the mixture is fragrant, being mindful not to burn it. Add the water (or stock, if using) and the

lentils are cl assified as a pulse but, confusingly, “pulses” and “legumes” are often used interchangeably. Legume is an umbrella term for edible plants that grow in pods, while pulses are the dried edible seeds from those pods. For example, a pea pod is a legume, and the pea is a pulse.

tomatoes, and stir to combine. Add the rinsed lentils, mix well, and bring to a simmer. Cook for about 7–8 minutes or just until the lentils have softened. The lentils will turn mushy if overcooked. Thin the soup as desired with additional water (or stock). Season with the lemon juice. Taste and add additional salt or lemon juice as desired.

2 tsp fast-acting yeast 1 tsp salt 1 cup of lukewarm water ¼ cup + 2 Tbsp plain Greek-style yogurt (0% fat or full fat)

Makes about 10 five-inch pieces

In a medium bowl, combine the all-purpose and whole wheat flours, yeast, and salt. In a small bowl, combine the water and yogurt and stir with a fork. Pour the water/yogurt mixture into the flour mixture and mix with a fork until it forms a shaggy mass. Add more water by the teaspoon as necessary for the dough to come together.

2 cups all-purpose flour ⅔ cup whole wheat flour, plus extra for kneading

Turn the dough onto a floured surface and knead for a few minutes until smooth.

Garnish with a dollop of yogurt and a sprig of cilantro or parsley if desired.

Flatbread

Place in a well-oiled bowl, cover, and set aside until doubled in size. Divide the dough into 10 portions and form balls. Using a rolling pin, roll each ball of dough onto a floured surface and shape into a circle about 5 inches in diameter and about ¼-inch thick. Heat a large, heavy skillet or grill, ideally cast iron, over medium-high heat. Place the flatbread on the hot dry grill until it bubbles and puffs and chars slightly. Flip the flatbread over with tongs or a fork, and cook for another few minutes until puffed and cooked through. Alternatively, bake the flatbread on a pre-heated pizza stone in a preheated 475F° oven. A few minutes per side should be enough. 25

Sweet Endings A MEMORY OF PUDDING

EAT editor Cynthia Annett-Hynes recreates a treasured recipe from her childhood.

his is one of my childhood favourites. My mom would often make this dessert with its creamy, warm lemon curd on the bottom and light cake topping. It’s not too sweet, with that tartness of the lemons I love. Mom’s recipe included measurements such as “butter the size of an egg.” I have assigned more precise measurements for this beloved pudding cake.

Lemon Pudding Cake

Serves 4–6

JACQUELINE DOWNEY

2 Tbsp butter, at room temperature 1 cup white sugar, divided, with 2 Tbsp reserved 3 large eggs, separated 1 Tbsp lemon zest ¼ cup all-purpose flour ¼ tsp salt 1 cup milk ⅔ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (3–4 lemons) 2 Tbsp icing/confectioner’s sugar, for garnish Preheat oven to 350°F with rack in centre of the oven. Have a large, high-sided roasting pan ready. Lightly butter an 8-inch square baking dish or 4–6 individual ramekins. Before starting, separate eggs and reserve whites. Divide the white sugar, reserving 2 Tbsp. You will need these ingredients to make the meringue. In the bowl of a stand mixer, or in a large bowl, add in the remaining sugar. Add the butter and beat (with stand mixer or electric mixer) until mixture is grainy but light. Add the egg yolks one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add lemon zest and mix. Add the flour and salt and mix. Add the milk and lemon juice and mix until combined. Set aside. (If using your stand mixer, transfer mixture to another large bowl and wash your mixer bowl really well—you’ll be whipping the egg whites in it next, so it has to be squeaky clean.)

26 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2022

Lemon pudding cake served in vintage teacups To make the meringue, beat egg whites in the clean bowl of the stand mixer, or another bowl, until frothy and beginning to form soft peaks. Sprinkle in the reserved 2 Tbsp of white sugar and beat again until stiff peaks form.

Place the prepared dish (or dishes) into the roasting pan. Carefully pour simmering water into the roasting pan around the dish(s) so it comes about halfway up the sides of the dish. Carefully put the roasting pan into the preheated 350°F oven.

Bring 8–10 cups of water to a simmer (this will be added to the roasting pan to bake the puddings).

Pudding(s) will take anywhere from 30 minutes (for individual servings) to 45 minutes (for one large pudding) to bake. You want the top to be firm and golden, but not too browned. (Baking times can vary, so watch closely.)

Spoon the meringue mixture on top of the egg yolk and flour mixture. Using a spatula, gently fold the meringue into the egg yolk mixture by pulling a bit of the batter up and over the meringue. Continue gently folding in the meringue until the mixture is uniform in colour and texture and there aren’t any large chunks of meringue. Do not over mix. Pour or ladle your batter into the prepared dish or dishes.

Remove the pudding from the oven and transfer to a cooling rack. Allow to cool for 10 minutes, then dust lightly with icing/confectioner’s sugar. Serve warm and enjoy!

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