EAT Magazine July | August 2022

R E S TAU R A N T S | R E C I PE S | W I N E S | F O O D | C U LT U R E

®

Smart. Local. Delicious.

Clafouti Café Brio Best Dressed Fox & Monocle

e Tim

S u m mer

INDEPENDENT & ISLAND OWNED

JULY | AUGUST 2022 ISSUE 26-04

23 years at the forefront of local food and drink

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Welcome I’M KEEPING THE WELCOME short and sweet to give the real estate over to the articles and columns. We hope you will try the places and products in the stories and make the recipes. And as always, thank you for supporting our fabulous advertisers. Have a great summer and we’ll see you in the fall!

CYNTHIA ANNETT-HYNES EDITOR

where summer happens

People who love to eat are always the best people.

—Julia Child

CORRECTION: The article on L’Apéro Wine and Cheese Bistro in the May | June issue (page 18) should have stated Chef Andrea Maiolo staged at The Courtney Room and Zambri’s and that he held the position of chef de partie at Raindogs Wine Bar. The sous chef at Raindogs Wine Bar was Jack Hanika.

CITY EATS

patio great food cold drinks downtown

VICTORIAMARRIOTT.CA VICTORIAMARRIOTT.CA

REBECCA BAUGNIET

We have several downtown openings to report on for this issue. At the corner of Blanshard and Broughton, Kanpai Asian Eatery and Bar has opened their doors. Kanpai is a Japanese term that roughly translates to “drink your cup dry.”

A little further down at Broughton and Douglas, Smile Chicken is preparing to open, promising Korean style fried chicken and corndogs. Al Chile is serving up Mexican cuisine, including vegan menu options at 788 Yates St. (formerly Azteca).

Papa Moe’s is a new lunch destination at 766 Yates St. Open 11am–5pm Tuesday– Saturday, they offer tasty, in your face, metropolitan street food inspired by the Yiddish and Italian influences of Greenwich Village. papamoes.ca In mid-June, sports bar chain The Canadian Brewhouse opened a location at Uptown Mall. In addition to restaurant and bar seating for 600, there is also a rooftop patio, a bowling alley, and batting cages. thecanadianbrewhouse.com

FARMER FRESH THE BEST LOCAL PRODUCE STRAIGHT FROM LOCAL FARMERS

The plant-based meat company Very Good Butchers have reduced operations, closing several of their BC locations including their Victoria flagship shop. They have one production facility still operating in Vancouver and you can find their vegan products available at Red Barn Market and Country Grocer locations. verygoodbutchers.com The Fox & Monocle is a new café and bakery in North Saanich. Read more about them in the profile in this issue. foxandmonoclebakery.com Vancouver-based MeeT is planning a Victoria opening. First opened in 2014, they now have three locations in Vancouver. Their mission is to help transition the mainstream to eating more plant-based foods in a friendly, accepting and engaging venue. eatmeet.ca

Meet local. Eat local.

Broadmead Village nichevictoria.ca | 778-432-4243

ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK.COM/COSMAA

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Parry Bay Sheep Farm Metchosin, BC

CITY EATS The Jam Factory at 319 Upper Ganges Road is Salt Spring Island’s newest culinary hotspot. The three-storefront building, anchored by Salt Spring Kitchen Co., along with island favourites The Woodshed Provisions and Francis Bread, offer all the delights to make your summer days memorable. Carefully curated preserves, cheeses, cured meats, wood-fired bread, seasonally inspired gourmet food & much more.

Parry Bay Sheep Farm along with Stillmeadow Farm sells lamb, pork and roasting chicken to restaurants and butcher shops in Victoria and through our on-farm market in Metchosin. We truly appreciate those who “walk the talk” and support local producers. From picturesque pastures to backyard barbecues Parry Bay lambs make people smile.

John & Lorraine Buchanan 250.478.9628 contact@parrybaysheepfarm.com www.parrybaysheepfarm.com

instagram: @parrybayfarm facebook.com/parrybaysheepfarm facebook.com/ParryBayFarmMarket

The highly popular North Saanich Flavour Trail is a celebratory rural ramble and feast of the senses. Explore by bike or by car and meet the growers, harvesters, fishers, vintners, chefs, and producers that are creating an amazingly rich bounty right here in our own backyard. Visit a farm gate, sample local wines and beer made from the fruits of this land, enjoy music and art, watch dog herding demonstrations, and experience farm life past and present. flavourtrails.com Join the Oak Bay Beach Hotel as they launch their sixth annual Winemaker’s Dinner Series. Featuring a collection of vineyards, wineries, and estates from throughout British Columbia, each dinner will showcase the best of each winery paired with a seasonally inspired menu created by Executive Chef Kreg Graham. 7 p.m. Tickets for each dinner are $189 per person, plus tax. July 7, 2022 | Liquidity Wines, July 21, 2022 | Blue Grouse Vineyards, August 11, 2022 | Hester Creek Winery, August 25, 2022 | Phantom Creek Winery. oakbaybeachhotel.com

PATIO PERFECT

B R EAKFA ST • BRU N CH • TE A FOR T WO • H AP P Y H O U R • D I N N ER

R E S TA U R A N T

Inn at Laurel Point 680 Montreal St aurarestaurant.ca @aurayyj • #EatAtAura

On July 21, attend a seasonal cooking workshop at the Victoria Community Food Hub. Chef Tammy Sam of the Songhees Nation will share her traditional Bannock recipe passed down from her Auntie. Learn to make bannock and a homemade salad dressing and dine together on local salad greens with smoked salmon. $75 per person. victoriacommunityfoodhub.com More about this program: Kitchen Connect is Victoria’s new community food hub.

Kitchen Connect is a food business incubator and processing facility with a modern teaching and commercial kitchen. The Seasonal Cooking workshop series will focus on utilizing produce harvested fresh from the field to make healthy seasonal meals. Locally sourced ingredients from nearby farms will be the centerpiece of this hands-on workshop. The South Island Farm Hub currently works with over 30 local farms and will pick the best and freshest of the season. These workshops will be taught by a local chef who will help you create meals and provide recipes for you to take home that highlight the tastes of the season in Victoria. During the workshop, you will also get to take a tour of the Food Hub to learn about regional food security efforts and how they are supporting a local and sustainable food system. kitchenconnectvictoria.com Rejoice! Feast of Fields is returning to in-person this summer! Feast of Fields is a wandering gourmet harvest festival that strengthens the connections between farm folks and city folks. With a wine glass and linen napkin in hand, guests stroll across farmers’ fields, through barns, past tractors, On the cover: and around chicken coops, listening to live White Bean and Pesto Potato Salad music and tasting gourmet creations from Styling + Photography: top BC chefs, farmers, fishers, ranchers, Rebecca Wellman food artisans, and beverage producers. The Recipe on page 25 Vancouver Island Feast of Fields will take place on August 28, from 1–4pm, at Heritage Acres. farmfolkcityfolk.ca What to look forward to in September (but also to help you plan ahead, as tickets to these events often sell out quickly): Great Canadian Beer Festival (Sept 9–10) and Brewery and the Beast (Sept 25); Esquimalt Rib Fest (Sept 9–11 free admission).

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TEST DRIVING THE THERMOMIX TM6

THE EAT KITCHEN GOT the chance to try out the new Thermomix TM6 recently, and we were impressed. The Thermomix from Vorwerk is an all-in-one kitchen appliance. It is exceptionally versatile, performing 22 unique functions: blend, cook, steam, sous-vide, slow cook, grind, grate, ferment, plus 14 more culinary functions, all with the touch of a button. You can mill flour, crush ice, and streamline steps with its powerful motor. It has touchscreen access to more than 50,000 global recipes developed by chefs and broken down step-by-step for foolproof, guided cooking. Dishwasher-safe parts and pre-clean modes make kitchen cleanup a breeze. As well, all Thermomix purchases include hassle-free Get Cooking services provided by expert Thermomix consultants.

First, we made a Parmesan and white wine risotto. The Thermomix guides you through the steps, weighing out the ingredients as you add them to its all-in-one, 2-litre container. Anyone who has ever made a risotto knows that consistent stirring is essential. With the Thermomix, the appliance does the stirring for you as the risotto cooks. It was delicious; creamy with the rice soft but still with some bite to it. Next came beef stroganoff—the Thermomix diced and sautéed the mirepoix, then cooked the sliced beef, and finally cooked and stirred the sauce. Later in the week, we made Asian stir-fry, and a lemon thyme chicken.

It was a week of eating well, and pretty much using only the Thermomix. Following the guided recipes, it was a breeze to cook, and there was time to answer emails, play fetch with the dog in the yard, or whip up a pan of squares while the Thermomix did its thing.

There are 11 million Thermomixes in use worldwide, and we can see why. Michelin-starred chefs from around the world use it in their kitchens for its ability to automatically perform even delicate tasks, such as preparing a crème pâtissière, beurre blanc, and chocolate ganache. We’ll be trying those next! thermomix.ca EAT SPONSORED PROMOTION

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Good for You

THE ZERO-PROOF PATIO

This summer, you can enjoy the pleasures of patio imbibing without the alcohol.

THIS SPRING, SOME SOBERING findings were published in the peerreviewed journal Nature Communications. The University of Pennsylvania study offered a new perspective on alcohol consumption, suggesting moderate drinking is associated with reduced brain size.

VOTED BEST PIZZA IN THE CITY

It sounds like perfect fodder for late-night talk-show hosts, and there’s still good science to support the notion that one drink a day is fine. Still, the new study reinvigorates an age-old conversation: just how much is too much?

Alcohol consumption has been heading upward in Canada since the beginning of the pandemic. In BC, people drank more in 2020 than at any other time in the past 20 years of available data, according to the Canadian Institute for Substance Use Research. It’s a bump in a rising curve nationally that’s been climbing since 2013.

No question, much of the appeal of alcohol is its mood-altering ability. And who among us hasn’t felt the need for some mood alteration over the past two years.

Alcohol can also act as a boundary between work and play, an end-of-the-day signal it’s time to kick back.

And because drinking is an important ritual in our culture, it can make it hard to avoid. Celebrations are inevitably marked by a glass of something alcoholic—from birthdays to weddings to wetting the new baby’s head. And the pleasures of the patio are definitely enhanced with a spirited beverage or two.

Still, there are solid reasons to cut back on alcohol, besides its addictive potential.

Overdrinking is associated with some health risks. Some medications—opioid painkillers, anti-anxiety meds, even over-the-counter cold medicines—can be downright dangerous mixed with alcohol.

Until recently, non-drinkers didn’t find a whole lot of sophisticated options out there. That’s changing and it makes it easier to say no. The truth is, any beverage can take on that role of work-play boundary and celebratory ritual if we mix in some joy and gratitude for family and friends. So, for those looking for some clear-headed summer drinks, these are all made on the Island or Lower Mainland.

Brunch • Happy Hour • Dinner Taste the flavours of West Africa, Caribbean & Pacific Northwest 2854 Peatt Rd • 778.432.2233 www.houseofboateng.ca 6

JULY/AUGUST 2022

Non-Alcoholic Spirits Zero-proof spirits are a thing—really. Lumette is a non-alcoholic spirit from Sheringham Distillery in Sooke, makers of award-winning Seaside Gin. Its three flavours—two gin-like, one called lumrum—are lively, refreshing, and infused with botanicals. The London Dry style is traditionally distilled with juniper, lemon, and star anise to create the classic flavour profile. Pair it with Sparkmouth Artisanal Dry Tonic from Vancouver for a zero-proof, made-in-BC G&T. Craft Beer Tried non-alcoholic beer years ago and gave up? Then Iota by Victoria’s Phillips Brewery will be a revelation. Sure, nothing can replicate that pleasant alcohol tingle on the tongue, but Phillips comes pretty darn close. Its Iota Pale Ale, at 0.5 percent alcohol, is alive with floral hops and has the smoothness and depth of the real thing. There’s a Hazy IPA and Pilsner to try too.

CAROLYN BATEMAN

Central City Brewing in Surrey makes Red Racer Street Legal, another traditionally brewed non-alcoholic craft beer with only 0.5 percent alcohol. You may find you just don’t miss that extra 4.5 percent. Another very pleasant surprise.

Shrubs A “shrub” is an infusion of fruit, vinegar, spice and sugar, a technique used to preserve fruit before the advent of refrigeration. An acquired taste, perhaps, but the delicious offerings from The Shrubbery in Victoria, like peach/cardamom and mango/ginger, are a good way to acquire it. Mix it with soda water and a twist of lemon. Or add a shot to your own iced tea from locally grown or blended teas from Duncan’s Westholme Tea Company or one of the tea blends from Apotheka herbal dispensary in Victoria. The irony is that a drink as tame as iced tea can have some of the relaxing qualities of alcohol when made with certain herbs.

Lemon balm, linden flower, rose, peppermint, skullcap, chamomile, and lavender all make tasty tea and chill you out to boot. Mixed with a glug of one of the Shrubbery’s shrubs or some kombucha and you’ve got a healthy cocktail perfect for the patio.

C I B C WO O D G U N DY B LU E H E R O N A DV I S O RY G R O U P

SUSTAINABLE, ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY INVESTMENT SOLUTIONS

Wine Canadian wineries haven’t embraced alcohol-free the way Europe has. We limit selections to local talent here, but those keen on sampling further afield can check out Sansorium.com, a Vancouver-based online retail portal for all things nonalcoholic. Sansorium is shopping the globe to find the best non-alcoholic wines.

The selection may inspire you.

ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK.COM/KRAFLA

MADE RIGHT HERE ON VANCOUVER ISLAND. Han d m a d e E thical L o cal Trad itio nal

Want to make a difference and still meet your financial goals? Let us show you how using proactive Environmental, Social and Corporate Governance (ESG) standards can do just that. We’ve been doing it for years. Right here in Victoria.

Contact us today to learn how we help create more sustainable portfolios.

www.blueherongroup.ca 250 361-2284 blueheronadvisorygroup@cibc.ca

CURED AND SMOKED MEATS 2 0 3 2 O A K B AY A V E N U E , V I C T O R I A

250.590.PORK

TH EWHOLEBEA ST. C A C U R E D @T H E W H OLEBEAS T.CA

Neil Chappell and Graham Isenegger are Investment Advisors and Portfolio Managers with the Blue Heron Advisory Group of CIBC Wood Gundy in Victoria BC. CIBC Wood Gundy is a division of CIBC World Markets Inc., a subsidiary of CIBC and a Member of the Canadian Investor Protection Fund and Investment Industry Regulatory Organization of Canada. CIBC Private Wealth Management consists of services provided by CIBC and certain of its subsidiaries, including CIBC Wood Gundy, a division of CIBC World Markets Inc. “CIBC Private Wealth Management” is a registered trademark of CIBC, used under license. “Wood Gundy” is a registered trademark of CIBC World Markets Inc. If you are currently a CIBC Wood Gundy client, please contact your Investment Advisor. Past performance may not be repeated and is not indicative of future results.

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Side Dish

Salmon Pinwheel with Corn and Chimichurri Sauce Serves 2 INGREDIENTS: 375g Wild BC Salmon, pin bones out, skin off 1 Tbsp olive oil 1 cup finely chopped leeks 1 ear of corn, kernels cut from the cob ¼ cup panko ¼ cup chimichurri, plus more to garnish 1 tsp + kosher salt METHOD: For stuffing, gently heat oil in medium skillet. Sautee leeks with 1 tsp of kosher salt until tender, add corn kernels and cook a minute longer.

Remove from heat and cool. Once cool, rough chop on a cutting board.

Place in bowl. Mix with ¼ cup chimichurri and ¼ cup panko.

Set aside. Butterfly the salmon.* Cover salmon with thin layer of filling. Roll into a pinwheel, short end to short end. Tie in two places with butchers twine and cut through centre, creating two pinwheels. Cook on grill, or in oven at 425°F for 10–12 min.

Serve with more chimichurri!

CHIMICHURRI: packed ½ cup parsley packed ½ cup dill 2 Tbsp capers ½ tsp chili flakes juice of ½ a lemon 1 Tbsp honey ¾ cup neutral oil (i.e. canola, grapeseed)

COOL SUMMER OR CHILL OUT Swap the stove for the food processor for a cooler kitchen and even more chill menu.

SUMMERTIME MEANS SPENDING MORE time outdoors. And dining al fresco is de rigueur. Be it during a hike, at the beach with a campfire, a roadside stop, or on a patio somewhere delicious, food just seems to taste better eaten outside.

METHOD: Put all ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth.

(Makes more than needed for this recipe. Keeps in fridge for up to 2 weeks.)

* Watch the video on

our YouTube channel for instructions on how to butterfly the salmon fillet.

FRESH SEAFOOD MARKET – FOOD TRUCK 250.383.7760 27 ERIE STREET VICTORIA, BC FINESTATSEA.COM

WE STEAK OUR REPUTATION ON IT

The colourful abundance of summer ingredients are at their height right now, urging you to keep flavours bright, light, and fresh, with minimal cooking and manipulation.

I’ve taken cues from last year’s crazy heat dome, which forced my hand in creating easier sustenance without heating up the kitchen. Number one: fresh herbs featured prominently. Pesto, as most of us know, is a cook’s best friend and can be made without heat. All you need is a small Cuisinart-type food processor, a blender, or—for the muscular—a mortar and pestle. (Last year, I even took to plugging my blender, rice cooker, and Cuisinart out of doors.) Big bunches of basil are readily available in the summertime, but it’s not just about that Italian herbaceous icon. Garlic scapes and baby kale are equally available and delicious in a pesto, as are tarragon and parsley, be it Italian flat leaf or curly. Blend to a smooth paste with garlic and olive oil, with or without Parmesan or nuts.

Pesto can be added to any cold grain or pasta salad, grilled fish, scallops, or prawns, or used as a flavour booster in marinades. Combine it with a tablespoon or two of white wine for a brilliant addition to steamed clams or mussels—easily done in a pot on a hot grill, out of doors. Or take pesto down Argentine way as a chimichurri with the addition of chilies, oregano, garlic, and fruity vinegar. And don’t overlook incorporating fresh chopped herbs, or the addictive chili crisp, into butters or mayo to take nugget potatoes and steamed garden green beans to new heights.

Chilled soups were invented for hot days, and gazpacho, that refreshing soup of Spanish origin, offers a perfect cool-down strategy that leaves the stove behind.

Raw, ripe tomatoes, cucumbers, bell peppers, a splash of sherry vinegar—or even a splash of vodka—are blended together, leaving a bit of texture. It makes a wonderfully nutritious and refreshing appetizer, served in shooter glasses or martini glasses, with or without a white tablecloth.

Gazpacho’s kissing cousin is ajo blanco, a smooth white concoction of crushed almonds, garlic, water, olive oil, and vinegar. I enjoyed a rich version recently with the addition of cream, garnished with slices of green grapes.

Two cold Japanese noodle dishes I love are zaru soba, consisting of soba noodles with a cool, soy-based dipping sauce on the side; and hearty hiyashi chuka, chilled ramen noodles with sliced toppings ranging from ham and crisp vegetables, to steamed greens and seafood, in a soy-sesame dressing. I liken it to a chef ’s salad.

ISLAND RAISED 8

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2032 OAK BAY AVE

And avocados aren’t just for guacamole. Their creamy greenness is exquisite in cold soups, and there are many iterations on the theme. One I like is from Michelle Tam of Nom Paleo fame. It’s a dead-easy concoction of coconut milk topped with fresh crab meat. Another modern and healthy cold soup of Tam’s

SHELORA SHELDAN

calls for bright green honeydew melon blended with cucumbers, mint, lime juice, and jalapeños. It will be making its debut on my picnic table this summer, along with her watermelon gazpacho with sun-ripened tomatoes, a hit of sherry vinegar, cucumbers, and red bell peppers.

Slices of cold watermelon get top billing in my favourite summer salad— sometimes eaten as a dessert course—served with goat cheese and drizzled with fruity olive oil and a sprinkling of Maldon sea salt flakes.

My vintage Osterizer blender goes into overdrive in the summer and is my best friend for the likes of hummus and its many variations. Trade out the chickpeas for white beans with a hit of orange zest. Do make guacamole, leaving a bit of chopped avocado to add in at the last minute for texture. I love a good tapenade made with a variety of olives, along with capers, anchovies, and a splash of cognac. Add a selection of farmer’s market fresh veggies and you have an instant meze platter with drinks around the wading pool.

And don’t forget the cocktail hour. Batch cocktails, served from a large pitcher, punch bowl, or glass container with a spigot, are a huge help for a gathering of friends. Think fruit-forward sangrias—with either red or white wine as the base— or a negroni punch, with soda on the side and extra ice in an ice bucket. For nonalc beverages, any aromatic, herb-infused water or tea is a must, or use any of the great zero-proof gins or vodkas on the marketplace.

Trading in the blender for a sharp knife, ceviche is another chilled-out friend for summer. Made with fresh, raw, bite-sized pieces of fish—cod, snapper, halibut, prawns, and scallops are all good candidates—cured or “cooked” in fresh citrus juice, most commonly lime and orange. It’s the best kind of seafood salad, with the addition of chopped chili peppers, chopped onion, and often tomato, along with bright seasonings such as freshly chopped cilantro. And again, serve in a martini glass for an elegant presentation alongside tortilla chips, or saltine crackers for authenticity.

WOOD-FIRED ITALIAN PIZZA PASTA VINO

0

900

BiSTR0 2360 Beacon Avenue, Sidney B.C.

COMING SUMMER 2022 www.900degrees.ca

ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK.COM/LUCHEZAR

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Eat Ad - JulyAugust FINAL.pdf 1 2022-05-18 1:11:14 PM

Eating Well For Less

THE PERFECT LUNCH

Tasty deli soup and sandwich or a laden New York–style pizza? Here’s hoping that’s the hardest decision you have to make at the office today.

Bubby’s Pizzeria

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2571B QUADRA ST., AT KINGS RD 250-594-4411

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CM

THE BUBBY’S WE KNOW and love in Victoria is continuing to branch out offering pizzas and cocktails at its newest location in Quadra Village. The cocktail names are half the fun, with choices such as Gin Basil Smash (a mix of gin, bubbly water, lemon, and basil syrup) and Suave Agave (lime juice, house-made pineapple syrup, Aperol, Hornitos Plata tequila, and optional but recommended habanero bitters).

MY

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The pizzas are New York style, which is a bit puffier than the Neapolitan style we see at other pizzerias, and cooked at 700ºF. That’s enough to form a bubbly crust, and firm enough to hold more toppings than Neapolitan pizzas, but still soft enough to fold over to eat like a sandwich. They go for $16 for the 12-inch and $28 for the 16-inch.

Visit Today

Shop Online

www.rockycreekwinery.ca

Cowichan Valley

Cucina Italiana

Dinner ~ Wednesday to Sunday from 5pm 106 Superior St. | Reservations: 250.380.0088 | IlCovoTrattoria.ca 10

JULY/AUGUST 2022

Bubby’s Pizzeria is an exciting new iteration of the Bubby’s Bakery we know so well.

ELIZABETH NYLAND

Taste of Italy al fresco!

The vegetarian Pesto Pizza has house-made pesto, white sauce, and an interesting touch of thinly sliced potatoes. Sundried tomatoes provide a bit of tart and sweet, and enoki mushrooms add some earthiness. Another crowd-pleaser is the Smoked Barbeque Turkey Pizza. The scent of roasted onions precedes the pizza’s arrival at the table. This pizza has as much cheese as the crust can hold, the dreaded-bysome pineapple, and a delicious drizzle of honey mustard. The final fancy pizza I tried was the Cal Italia. With its asiago cheese, crisped prosciutto, and dollops of fig jam, it’s like a charcuterie plate on a pizza. All the tomato-sauce-based pizzas use a mix of San Marzano and fire-roasted tomatoes.

ELIZABETH MONK

Bull & Sons Delicatessen 830 FORT ST. BETWEEN BLANSHARD AND QUADRA 250-382-7572 BULLANDSONS.CA

WHEN YOU WALK INTO Bull & Sons, you are entering not only a deli new to the Victoria scene, but also a deli with a 130-year history. Bull & Sons has existed since 1889, starting in England with owner Jonathan Bull’s great-grandfather. In fact, Jonathan is still using the original dough recipe for his meat pies, because, well, why mess with success?

The shop offers a cornucopia of meats, cheeses, and pâtés, so it makes sense that one of the lunch dishes they make to go, or to enjoy at one of the six seats in the intimate space, is called a Charcuterie Platter for One. Mine had a nutty Oka cheese, a perfectly soft St. Agur blue, and a woody Italian Fontina. The European meats were flavour-packed, ranging from a smoky Schinkenspeck to a classic Genoa salami and spicy Spanish chorizo. But the garnishes were the real showstoppers. House-made mustard includes malt vinegar and organic turmeric.

Tiny, tart onions were pickled in-house. And adorable, caper-sized red peppers added a touch of whimsy. And all for the really great price of $16.

Come check out Salt Spring Island's newest culinary hotspot,

The Jam Factory at 319 Upper Ganges Road.

Bull & Sons also does one lunch special a day, either a sandwich, or a soup and a sandwich, for $14. My visit was a Montreal smoked meat day. I would call the pickles in the sandwich an ingredient more than a garnish, successfully so since they were pickled in champagne vinegar and offered some sweetness to the sandwich. While I enjoyed my sandwich, I watched sausage rolls and frozen soups fly out of the shop. The take-out soup flavours included Moroccan, artichoke, and Tuscan white bean with aged cheddar, so I will be sure to return on a soup and sandwich day.

Carefully curated preserves, cheeses, cured meats, and picnic provisions. saltspringkitchen.com

The shop also prepares picnics and makes up charcuterie platters for events, so you have many ways to try Bull & Sons’ bounty.

us for Afternoon Teaexperience Join us for Join a memorable Afternoon Tea theTeahouse Gardenat that LoveGarden Built atinThe Abkhazi ELIZABETH NYLAND

Reservations Strongly Recommended

778-265-6466 1964 Fairfield Rd. Victoria Open everyday Open every day 11am–4pm 11am – 5pm

Complete menu online: www.abkhaziteahouse.com 11

REPORTER — LET’S CATCH UP

9 4 4 F O R T S T.

Café Brio’s Fresh Start

250 -383- 0009 CAFEBRIO.COM

With the arrival of new executive chef Sam Harris, the beloved restaurant both builds on its legacy and looks towards a bright future.

The room is large yet remarkably cozy, with plank floors, dark walls punctuated by an eclectic art collection, and high-backed booths, a welcoming and sociable space.

THERE’S A NEW CHAPTER unfolding at one of the city’s most established and beloved dining rooms, and it’s causing a bit of a buzz in the local restaurant world.

Hays recalls how it all started—how his years at the helm of the lauded Herald Street Café in the 1990s sparked the couple’s dream of owning their own property.

“I represent the old school and he represents the new wave,” says Greg Hays, longtime co-owner of Café Brio, sitting next to his new executive chef, Sam Harris.

Harris, who most recently finished a stint at the former Canoe Brewpub, is best known as the opening chef at a string of award-winning city restaurants, including Agrius, The Courtney Room, and Boom + Batten. He’s mentored a lot of our best culinary talent, too, and now takes over the kitchen that chef Laurie Munn helmed for more than 15 years.

“So many things that Brio is about are the same things I love,” said Harris, who was working alongside Munn in his final weeks at the restaurant this spring when we sat down to talk about his plans.

“Farm to table, embracing urban agriculture, working with our local growers for Island food security—the old team is moving on and I have a bunch of new cooks to build on that foundation and create new things.”

A Legacy of Local Café Brio is a local institution, it’s quaint Mediterranean-style stucco façade and vine-covered patio a beacon of hospitality on Fort Street for 25 years. Hays and his wife Silvia Marcolini are your hosts, and both have deep roots in the local restaurant business.

“I saw the landlords making money, and I knew that if you don’t own the dirt, you can’t make a solid living,” he says.

Their search for real estate led them to buy a building with an adjacent parking lot, and by selling the former to finance building on the latter, Café Brio was born.

Hays says not worrying about paying rent during Covid closures helped keep his business afloat.

The thing about Café Brio is that it’s fun—lively, unpretentious, friendly—yet with a serious menu, reflecting a commitment to local, seasonal ingredients.

Hays treats his customers like friends coming to dinner in his home, and you always get that vibe when this gregarious restaurateur is at the door.

The restaurant’s original opening chef in 1997 was Sean Brennan (who later opened Brasserie L’Ecole), and Brennan was the pioneer of Brio’s farm-to-table ethos. With Munn at the helm, beginning around 2006, the restaurant expanded its program of local sourcing and in-house butchery, with an extensive charcuterie program featuring house-cured salumi, a daily offering of wild local seafood, pasta dishes, and the popular Contorni course, featuring a selection of four seasonal vegetable preparations.

JACQUELINE DOWNEY

Owners Greg Hays and Silvia Marcolini flank Executive Chef Sam Harris

mushroom broth, and nose-to-tail creations. “We want to be using whole animals, to offer value with less popular cuts, and be a little daring,” he says, adding he’ll be “salting and hanging up a lot of meat” in the café’s dedicated curing room and “by September, the charcuterie program will be adventurous.”

With Melanie Wickson behind the bar, there’s an exciting cocktail (and mocktail) program, too.

JACQUELINE DOWNEY

Warm and inviting interior at Café Brio Café Brio also offers half portions of everything on its menu, a popular innovation that encourages diners to share or try multiple courses.

“The original idea was to be more full-on, authentic, regional Italian,” says Hays of Brio’s beginnings, but when the reviews and accolades began pouring in for Brennan’s rustic, Italian-inspired West Coast cooking, the mold was set. Harris says he plans to build on that legacy.

“We’ll be doing everything in house—sourdough breads, fermented foods, pasta, cured meats,” says Harris, a self-described food nerd who loves to tinker with recipes. “I always want to be hitting that nostalgic note and adding something new, playing to make a dish that one percent better.”

Guests can expect some dishes to remain on the menu and others to evolve as the new team settles in, says Hays.

The classic From the Garden, From the Sea, and Pasta sections will remain, but the new team will add their own interpretations, says Harris.

“The ethos and style won’t be that different—my menus are very collaborative, with balance and different access points, to appeal to a variety of diners,” he says, contemplating dishes such as tortellini stuffed with nettles and ricotta in a

“She’s arguably the best bartender we’ve ever had,” says Hays, noting Wickson’s spicy Fire and Ice margarita, made with her own jalapeño-infused tequila, and the house-made tinctures, syrups, and garnishes that add to her inventive cocktail creations.

Blending of the Guard It may be kismet, but so many things lined up for Harris and Hays to join forces at Café Brio.

When Munn announced he would hang up his apron in April, and after losing other key staff during the pandemic, Hays says he seriously contemplated closing his restaurant for good. But business came roaring back after reopening, and so many long-time staff returned to work, he decided to advertise for a new chef.

Harris just happened to be contemplating a change, too, after Canoe Brewpub was purchased by the Calgary-based CRAFT Beer Market chain, famed for its 100+ taps and nine locations across the country.

“They know what they’re doing, and I learned a lot, but I’m not a very corporate guy, and I’m not the best fit for that role,” admits Harris.

The fact that Harris lives with his partner and new daughter just a block away from Café Brio adds another layer of serendipity to the move.

Think of it not as a changing of the guard, but rather as a blending of generations, a melding of like minds. And with Harris, the king of city start-ups at the helm, it opens a world of opportunities for the Café Brio family.

“This restaurant has always believed what I believe—that food should be fun and adventurous and accessible,” says Harris. “It’s the reason I wanted to be here.”

Adds Hays: “It’s pretty exciting for us—I want our legacy to continue—and this feels like a brand-new start.” CINDA CHAVICH

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REPORTER

The Virtual London Chef A pandemic pivot turns into a full-time, online gig for Dan and Micayla Hayes’s popular cooking school.

A COUPLE WEEKS AFTER the pandemic originally emerged in 2020 and we were all thrust into the unknown, I ran into Micayla Hayes outside a coffee shop in North Park, where neither of us were allowed in. Hayes co-owns Victoriabased cooking school The London Chef with her husband, Dan, and was openly pondering some rather large questions at the time: how long was the lockdown going to last? How does one run a cooking school when no one is allowed indoors? And what in the hell does bubble even mean?

For some lucky few (like writers), these questions were less existential. For local small businesses that relied on bodies to be in attendance to make a profit, however, they were literally questions of survival. A few weeks of lockdown were likely doable for most, but as the pandemic settled in and the horizon for getting back to some version of normal stretched further into the distance, changes had to be made in the way many businesses operated.

A first step for The London Chef was to start doing live online classes. They would have ingredients delivered to your home and then Chef Dan would beam in via Zoom to teach you as a group in real-time. “It was a way for us to stay connected to our customers,” says Micayla, though she admits they really had no idea how to run an online business at first.

T H E L O N D O N C H E F. C O M

As it turned out, though, going online was the perfect next step for the Hayeses.

The couple opened The London Chef when Micayla was 26 and Dan was 29—but now as parents nearing their 40s, it was time to look at the next phase of the business, where they would have more freedom and time to spend with their kids.

Leveraging the success of the initial online model, they closed down their bricks and mortar location, moved to doing private events and occasional pop-ups, and launched Cooking School with The London Chef. The online, subscription-based website has a growing catalogue of 200 videos that includes basic skills, entire dishes, desserts, and more. For subscribers, Dan still does live classes in various time zones at least six times a month—and you can get access to it all for about $20 a month (or just $200 for a year).

Cooking School with The London Chef “It’s like Masterclass, but way more fun,” says Micayla Hayes. As a business, Cooking School with The London Chef is perfectly suited to operate as an online educational resource for aspiring or seasoned chefs—and with the rise in food costs globally and inflation hitting the pocketbooks of nearly everyone, the timing couldn’t be better. “Great food isn’t expensive,” says Dan Hayes. “If you do it my way, it really isn’t. It’s food that is simple and accessible.”

The thinking behind the online cooking school is that subscribers can build out their pantries with core ingredients (oils, spices, etc.) and then go exploring through the dozens of videos online, as Chef Dan walks you through the

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process in detail in his casual and fun manner. There are step-by-step tutorials on everything from basic skills like chopping onions, making pasta from scratch, or whipping up a béarnaise sauce—to full dishes like Goan fish stew, fresh pappardelle ragu, or even chocolate mousse.

Having explored the videos myself, what I like most is the full ingredient list that makes shopping a breeze. I also like that I can easily pause a video or go back if I need too. Chef Dan has taught cooking classes for more than a decade. And as co-host of the successful TV show, Moosemeat & Marmalade, he’s also a natural teacher who knows how to speak to the camera while being intentional but not fussy with the process, which is refreshing.

JOHANN VINCENT

Cooking School with The London Chef is a relatively new project for the Hayeses, but it’s already gathering subscribers around the world—and my bet is it will continue to grow in some fun, new directions (cooking for kids maybe?). The family will be doing specialized live classes from Spain in July and plans to continue with an international course each year. Not bad at all for just twenty bucks a month, in my opinion. ADRIEN SALA

Dan Hayes relaxes at home

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506 Fort St. 15

REPORTER

2300 CANOE COVE RD, NORTH SA ANICH

Fox & Monocle Cafe

7 78-351- 0993 F O X A N D M O N O C L E B A K E R Y. C O M

This Swartz Bay bakery by day and restaurant by night has top-chef style and a friendly vibe.

Zahavich will do the desserts. Custard Tart with elderflower and strawberries, European Honey Cake with poached rhubarb, and Chocolate Mousse with hazelnut praline led the opening sweet sheet.

A CENTURY AGO, CANOE COVE was known as a secret spot for prohibition rum runners.

“I think of this as a bistro or gastropub—casual food done really, really well,” says Bowles, citing the elevated traditional fare at some of their favourite British gastropubs like The Hand and Flowers or the recently closed Oxford Blue.

Today the sheltered inlet, just behind the Swartz Bay ferry terminal, is an enclave devoted to the recreational boating life. Venture beyond Sidney and you’ll find a pocket of posh homes next to the busy Canoe Cove Marina.

Both Bowles and Zahavich grew up in Calgary and attended culinary school at the Southern Alberta Institute of Technology (SAIT) but only met in London while both were working at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, the celebrity chef ’s threeMichelin-star flagship.

And now you’ll also find Fox & Monocle, a new restaurant/bakery that promises to be a destination for food lovers, whether nautical or not.

Bowles started his career as a prep cook at Calgary’s River Café and over four years rose to the position of sous chef. Zahavich was heading the pastry team at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in London when a former SAIT instructor asked her to help set up a stage (restaurant-speak for internship) for Bowles—and the rest is history.

IMAGE COURTESY OF FOX & MONOCLE

It’s the first venture for chefs Ross Bowles and Tracie Zahavich, a young power couple in the world of professional cooking and baking, and recent transplants to Vancouver Island. Both arrived last year with some serious restaurant experience under their belts—from famed Michelin-star restaurants in London to Calgary’s hyper-local River Café and Victoria’s Saveur.

As they prepared for the opening of their new hybrid bakery café/restaurant in May, both were excited to tell me about their plans.

“I want to serve uncomplicated, simple food in a comfortable neighbourhood space,” says Bowles who looks to Britain’s top gastropubs for his inspiration. “We will be a bakery by day, with counter service and sandwiches, then at midday we’ll have a ‘costume change,’ the coffee station turning into the hostess stand for dinner.”

Zahavich, who had already established the Fox & Monocle brand with her popular virtual bakery (with online orders, home deliveries, and weekly sales at the Sidney Street Market), will continue to serve customers with her beautiful custom cakes and baked goods, from classic cookies and little Bundt cakes, to elegant mousse-filled choux buns and cinnamon babka.

Bowles, whose last job was as sous chef for Rob Cassels at Saveur, has designed a seasonal dinner menu around the Island’s fresh bounty, whether a Sunwing Farm tomato salad with local goat cheese, creamy truffle and oyster mushroom linguine, ling cod pie with sautéed purple sprouted broccoli and leeks, or a Farm House Poultry roast chicken with smoked potato mash and morels.

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Their careers bounced between London and Calgary, with Bowles eventually hired at Gordon Ramsay, then joining the opening team at Clare Smyth’s twostarred Michelin restaurant, Core.

He returned to Calgary as head chef at River Café in 2019. Meanwhile, Zahavich was head pastry chef at both River Café and Teatro.

The couple married in 2020 and last year decided to make their dream of owning their own restaurant a reality. They considered several locations, but Vancouver Island, with its coastal climate and small farms, recalled their time in the UK. “The island reminded us most of England. There’s farmland all around, the local produce is second to none, and we fell in love with the weather.”

The Fox & Monocle name comes from the emojis each adopted in correspondence while living apart. The “monocle” emoji was Ross Bowles’s persona when writing from London to Tracie Zahavich, “the fox,” and the nicknames stuck. Their wedding photographer created a line drawing of a fox wearing a monocle for the celebration, and it has become the logo for their restaurant and bakery.

The small, converted cottage next to the busy marina was previously home to Porto Osteria, and some locals recall its earliest incarnation as a general store for the community.

Bowles and Zahavich refreshed the space, adding a long bar with seating at one end and an area to display baked goods at the other, new tables, and an updated kitchen. It’s a bright casual room, with a cozy wood stove and a bank of windows overlooking a sunny patio.

Bowles and Zahavich have designed Fox & Monocle to serve the surrounding marina community and to attract diners from Sidney, North Saanich, and Victoria. They want it to be a friendly spot to drop in for a quick lunch or coffee, a loaf of bread, a box of pastries to take away, or for an excellent evening meal.

“I hope we can make people feel super-welcome,” says Bowles, whose elevated casual cuisine will appeal to a wide variety of diners. “We want it to be fun to come here.” CINDA CHAVICH

17

STOKED WOOD FIRED PIZZERIA

REPORTER

Beauregard Commons I DON’T SPEND ENOUGH time in Brentwood Bay; that’s what I think every time I visit. As I slowly walk up the accessible inclined walkway to Beauregard Commons, I peek in the window at the display table, upright fridge and freezer packed with lovely food, and the bright, open space and this thought crosses my mind again.

A West Coast Pizzeria & Market Across from French Beach Provincial Park Shirley, BC | @stokedpizzeria (778) 528-3473 | www.stokedpizzeria.com

I love to shop for food when I’m hungry—especially good food. I pick up a bag of Victoria’s La Pasta Triestina pasta, as well as Umami Bomb shiitake chili oil, which is now made in Sidney. Island Eko Pantry’s Gochujang (a Korean savoury, sweet, and spicy fermented red chili paste) also gets scooped up, along with Prima Strada’s chili oil. I refrain from picking up Wooly Buggers Mercantile’s smoked pork ribs or loin, some Haus Sausage sausages, and That Planted Life’s vegan burrito. Oh, and the Hazel’s Ice Cream bars and the Dumpling Drop dumplings, only because I want immediate caffeine and sustenance and haven’t even glanced at the board.

The menu is brief and appealing, a couple of items for breakfast, sandwich (tacos included here), soup, and salad. I order the breakfast sandwich, a cortado, and a Sparkmouth mimosa mocktail (non-alcoholic).

The sandwich is on a Portofino brioche bun with basil mayonnaise, Umami Bomb chili oil, fried egg, and melted Canadian Swiss cheese. Simple and yum.

1 1 9 1 V E R D I E R AV E . , B R E N T W O O D B AY 7 78-351-3035 BEAUREGARDCOMMONS.COM

Co-owner Andrew claims, “Good buns are hard to make, so why mess with a good thing? Breakfast sandwiches need to be simple.”

Andrew and Vanessa Johnson, the owners, also own Bicycle Pizza, part of the Beauregard Commons communal space. They bought the café in January 2022. For them, the opportunity to complement and showcase their other business, plus “connect with our customers on a deeper level” aligned perfectly with their values of sustainability and food security. They make the pizza in the café’s back kitchen for retail partner sales, and four other businesses—Samosa Box, Friends Bakery, VI Cookie Co., and Sango Nourishment—use their space.

The neighbourhood response has been warm and loyal. As I sit nursing my cortado, pacing myself with that solid sammy, customers arrive, bidding hello to Abby at the front counter, clearly not the first time for most of them. The calm, focused, but light vibe was deeply pleasant and quietly welcoming.

I take my plate, cup, and can to the bus pan, gather up my bag full of delicious fare, get into my car, throw on Spotify, and head back to Victoria. Shaking my head as I leave, I catch myself now saying, “It’s time to spend more time in Brentwood Bay.” GILLIE EASDON

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JOHANN VINCENT

Visit Our Tasting Room!

Liquid Assets

SUMMER’S FINE WINES

An eclectic selection of fine wines tasted over the course of a cold, wet spring in Victoria.

Te Awa Left Field Sauvignon Blanc 2021 New Zealand $20.00 There is absolutely nothing reserved about this intense Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc. It is mouth-wateringly delicious and not lacking for character. Crisp and clean with citrus, passionfruit, and pink grapefruit aromas, unbelievably fresh citrusy flavours, rapierlike acidity, and a long juicy finish.

Tommasi Le Fornaci Lugana DOC 2020 Italy $28.00 Lugana is situated at the southern end of Lake Garda, about midway between Milan and Verona in northern Italy. The wine is 100 percent Turbiana, a vine ubiquitous to the neighbourhood but hitherto unknown in the rest of the wine world. Bright yellow in colour and highly aromatic, with peaches, pears, and tropical fruits, the wine performs a full frontal assault on the olfactory system. Very heady indeed but worth the price of admission. On the palate it is more of the same and this is not a bad thing. Au contraire amici miei, the wine is dry and delicious with an elegant freshness and a clean persistent finish.

This lovely Lugana is, as the Brits would mumble, very “moreish.”

LARRY ARNOLD

Niro Di Citra Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC 2016 Italy $20.00 Here and now, in the great province of British Columbia, it is really difficult to find a red wine of this quality for under twenty bucks. The BCLDB stumbled upon Niro, and the monopoly, for right or wrong, will only sell it in government liquor stores.

It is an exclusive, and I for one don’t blame them.

Admittedly this could be considered a grandiose observation on my part, but dang this is a tasty, good value red for daily consumption or those special moments over dinner with the kids. Good deep colour with a nose that will get you thinking in the middle of the night. Cherries, perhaps. Brambles, definitely. Wet earth, roger that. Cocoa too and so much more. The palate is rich and juicy with great fruit nicely balanced with firm acidity, soft tannins, and a dry, supple finish.

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Château Saint-Antoine Réserve Du Chateau Bordeaux Supérieur 2017 France $23.00 Who says potable Bordeaux has to be expensive. Just about everybody, you say? Well, give this cheery little claret a try, and you may find yourself pleasantly surprised. A blend of 65 percent Merlot and 35 percent Cabernet Franc from 35-year-old vines.

Deep ruby in colour, with red berries, cassis, and vanilla on the nose. Medium-bodied, with generous fruit flavours, balanced with a blush of fine-grained tannins and a long soft finish.

Cantine Lunae Etichetta Grigia Vermentino dei Colli di Luni 2020 Italy $28.00 Another elegant little charmer, this one is also pale yellow with light floral and apple notes on the nose.

Very racy, with peach, apple, and white honey on the palate and a core of mouth-watering acidity that just keeps going through the finish.

Basel Cellars Estate Columbia Valley Merlot 2019 Washington $32.00 Basel Cellars Winery is located in the heart of Washington’s Walla Walla Valley. It is on the inky side of the colour spectrum with an imposing nose and a powerful punch. Balance and finesse, you may well ask? Yes, that too! Very impressive. It is both polished and rustic, with red berry flavours and subtle herbaceous notes, balanced with a core of firm acidity and a cloak of soft, round tannin. Worth every penny.

Play Estate Spotlight Merlot Okanagan Valley VQA 2020 BC $24.00 Play Estate Winery is perched on a hillside overlooking Skaha Lake, just minutes outside beautiful downtown Penticton. The 2020 vintage is a blend of merlots sourced from two vineyards, Wild Horse Estate Vineyard and King Vineyard in Kaleden.

Aged in a combination of French and American oak, Spotlight Merlot is soft and easy-drinking with blueberries, cherries, and herbs on the nose. Round and mouth-filling with lots of ripe, juicy fruit and a blush of fine-grained tannins.

Loron Domaine Des Billards Saint-Amour 2019 France $30.00 Well-made Beaujolais is wine worth drinking. It can never be Pinot Noir, but in the right hands it can produce charming wines of great character. This may be hard to swallow for some, but nonetheless it is true. The best of the best come from the 10 crus of Beaujolais, of which Saint-Amour is the most northerly. Its deep garnet colour reveals scents of black cherries, raspberries, and spice (hold the bananas), full-bodied, and concentrated with plenty of heft and soft tannins.

Bringing fresh new cider from our family to yours.

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19

Masterclass R ECIPE + T E X T

Denise Marchessault S T Y LING + PHO T OGR A PH Y

Deb Garlick

F

ew desserts are as simple and comforting as a French clafouti (cla-fooTEE). Rustic as a country farmhouse, a clafouti transforms kitchen staples into a satisfying fresh-from-the-oven dessert or welcome addition to a lazy weekend brunch.

More custard than cake, clafouti is an old-world dessert originally from the Limousin region of France and traditionally made with cherries. It was customary leave the pits as bakers believed they enhance the flavour of the custard. Historical convention aside, I’ve opted for pitted plums instead. Clafouti works especially well with stone fruit, but just about any fruit or berry can be added to the batter.

It’s a clever way to use up excess summer fruit and can be adapted to any season.

20 JULY/AUGUST 2022

A simple and delicious old-world dessert for modern times.

If you’re making it in the fall, for example, you can use apples or pears, but you’ll need to precook them until softened.

If you can make pancakes, you can make clafouti. A batter of eggs, flour, and sweetened milk (mixed by blender or by hand) is poured into a buttered pan, with pitted plums and baked until puffed and golden at the edges. The batter can be made in advance, which makes it convenient to pop in the oven just before you sit down to dinner (it takes only about 30–40 minutes to bake). Expect the custard to collapse on cue, from oven to dinner table. It will likely crack, too. Clafouti is a homespun dish that doesn’t take itself too seriously (the name comes from the French verb clafir, meaning to fill).

I baked my clafouti in a ceramic tart pan, but you can use just about any ovenproof container. Cast iron skillets also work well, as do ramekins for individual servings. Opt for a heavy-ish container to maintain an even heat, as lighter ones tend to burn the custard’s edges.

You can use any variety of plum, but I prefer tart oval Damson plums. With a dark blue to red-purple skin and a dusty silver coating, they’re ideal for baking, skin and all. That dusty coating, incidentally, is a mark of freshness. Referred to as the “bloom,” it acts as a protective barrier against insects and helps seal in the fruit’s moisture, as it does for blueberries and grapes. The bloom fades with time and handling, so select fruit with the silvery sheen intact. The sheen’s not harmful, but plums (like any produce) should be washed just before cooking or eating.

Clafouti is best served direct from the oven, while soft and custardy (though some enjoy it chilled firm). It can be served as is or with a dusting of icing sugar.

I especially enjoy it with a dollop of whipped cream cut with sour cream. It lends a luscious tangy note that goes particularly well with plums.

We all need a quick and easy dessert in our repertoire, and clafouti is a dish that has stood the test of time.

Plum Clafouti

Serves 6

Plums vary in sweetness throughout the season, which can be frustrating for us bakers. If your plums are especially tart, you may want to add additional sugar.

Conversely, if your plums are especially sweet, dial back the sugar.

1–2 tsp butter (for greasing the pan) 1 lb ripe Damson plums, about 2 cups, quartered, pitted ¾ cup granulated sugar, divided 3 large eggs 1 cup whole milk ½ cup whipping cream, 35% ¼ tsp table salt ⅔ cup all-purpose flour

Special Equipment 9½-inch pie plate, ceramic tart dish, or heavy ovenproof container Preheat oven to 375°F. Butter the oven-proof container. Place the plums in a medium bowl and toss with ¼ cup of the sugar. Set aside while preparing the batter.

If using a blender or food processor, combine the remaining ingredients and blend into a smooth batter.

If mixing by hand, whisk together the eggs. Whisk in the milk, cream, remaining sugar, and salt. Add the

flour in three or four batches, whisking the mixture smooth before adding additional flour.

Tip the quartered and sugared plums, and any juices, into the prepared pan, distributing the fruit evenly plums cut side down. Pour the batter over the fruit. Place the clafouti on a baking tray and bake until puffed and golden at the edges and the centre barely jiggles, 30–40 minutes, turning the pan once during baking.

Best served warm, with a dollop of whipped cream mixed with sour cream.

Whipped Cream mixed with Sour Cream ½ cup whipping cream, 35% ¼ cup icing (powdered sugar) ½ cup sour cream (full fat) By hand or mixer, whisk together the whipping cream, sugar, and sour cream in a medium bowl. The mixture will thicken and hold its shape but not form a stiff peak. It can be made in advance and re-whipped just before serving.

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21

B

y the time you read this, Spring should be dead. Historically speaking, that’s been a mid-year inevitability. But as I write these words against an early June backdrop that can only be described as West Coast Dismal, Summer still feels like a 50-50 proposition. Logic convinces us that the endless grey will dissolve, that the slick roads will dry, and the stiff winds will lose their chilling bite. But I’m just not convinced. Sometime around 2019, logic seemed to admit defeat to chaos and senselessness.

Ever since, many a crackpot has had their wildest theories put to shame by this suddenly unstable, and mostly terrifying, new monster: Reality.

Given the freakish and uninvited tumult that has become the New Normal, no one should be surprised if Summer simply takes a hard pass this year, calls in sick, has better things to do. Which may have been a manageable—though unpleasant—occurrence in the Before Times, but with everything we’ve had to endure lately, a non-existent Summer would surely be the final straw, sending the most even-keeled

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W OR D S

PHO T OGR A PH Y

Daniel Murphy

Johann Vincent Grapefruit Radler, Spinnakers Brewpub Admittedly, there have been a few questionable line-items on Germany’s resume since the early 20th century. But they still have an impeccable centuries…if this long record when it comes to brewing beer. meteorological So if Germany decided that mixing beer with malaise lasts sparkling fruit juice was a through till good idea, then it’s worth paying attention. And Autumn, and our Spinnakers agrees.

souls among us into a mass dissociative fugue and crumbling society into a gruesome free-for-all of depravity and mindless cruelty.

I mean, let’s hope not. Fingers crossed. But even if this meteorological malaise lasts through till Autumn, and our summerless lives grow completely unbearable, I can guarantee you this: there will be beer. We may look on powerless as the world spirals economically, politically, climatically, even socially, but we’ll be damned if we’re watching this ship go down without an ice-cold beer in hand.

So here’s a few beauties to toast with, whether it’s by the glassy shores of a blue-skied bay, or as the looters’ flames start to lap at your ankles. Prost.

summerless lives grow completely unbearable, I can guarantee you this: there will be beer.

Using their Departure Pilsner as a base, and infusing it with natural grapefruit flavour, Spinnakers’ brewers deliver a not-so-beery beer that will certainly appeal to an active, on-the-go set

of drinkers. It tastes like a brief pause during a warm afternoon bike ride. Or a long sipper while enduring a backyard barbecue that’s being plagued by a swarm of children. Leave your pretensions at the door and just enjoy the damned thing. Back on your bike.

Goldynwell, Driftwood Brewery Definitely one of my favorite Scandinavian-inspired West Coast Table Beers, Goldynwell opens with signature Driftwood intensity on the nose. But the pineapple and lemon pith aromas give way to a very easy-drinking, light-bodied session ale. Kölsch-like in its mouthfeel and drinkability, those persistent hop and yeast notes keep it from becoming watery or insipid by the end of the pint. One tall can give way effortlessly to the next. And the not-so-Driftwoodesque 4 percent alcohol by volume ensures it doesn’t become a West Coast (Under The) Table Beer.

Perfectly suited to cutting through the mild spice of the Asian-inspired tasting room menu, or watching a rod tip flex against the shimmering surface of the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

This is Hefeweizen, Moon Under Water Brewery This stylistically accurate effort comes from an otherwise highly experimental brewery. You can

really taste the Germanic sense of restraint. Fruity As such, the hop flavours are bold and astringent, yeast esters are sweet and inviting, with a bright malt with a resiny character that easily outshines a fleeting profile that’s high in wheat cameo appearance from content (70 percent), with lighter malts and imparts a dry, VIB’s Mystic trace amounts of hops snappy finish. providing elegant balance Haze and the Purists may turn up their noses and a clean, decisive finish. at a beer-style that intentionally It’s a traditional biergarten other beers contradicts the modern brewing staple for a very good reason: ideology of clarity and balance, listed above— this is a light beer that’s full but the crowd has spoken. And of flavour and feels designed ultimately a “good” beer is the as well as many other for imbibing at scale. It’s also one you want to drink, not a nostalgia-trigger for the local brews—are all necessarily one that “should” Europhiles among us. taste or look a certain way. In great complements to Mystic Haze Pale Ale, any case, VIB’s Mystic Haze and Vancouver Island Brewery the other beers listed above—as saltwater, sand, and sun. well The latest year-round release as many other local brews— from a brewery reinventing are all great complements to itself as the artisanal pioneer it was almost four saltwater, sand, and sun. Now Godspeed to you, dear decades ago, Mystic Haze taps right into the surge in Summer, before we all go to hell in a handbasket. popularity of not-clear beers. It’s a trend with East Disclaimer: Like outerwear in Victoria, the writer’s Coast origins, which VIB brings firmly into West views may have changed with the weather. EAT Coast territory. The first hint is that unmistakably magazine does not feel the world is coming to an funky yeast aroma that seems to appear whenever end, but we will be having beer this summer. hops are added directly into an active fermentation.

ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK.COM/STUDIOM1

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White Bean, Pesto, and Potato Salad

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here’s something essential about having a great potato salad recipe in the repertoire. And this one takes it to the next summery level with fresh basil and arugula. The absence of mayonnaise and boiled eggs makes this a very transportable salad, perfect for gatherings indoors or out.

I’ve given you measurements for lots of pesto here. Feel free to use it generously on the salad and know that any leftovers will go well over pasta or grilled veg, chicken, or fish. Pesto also freezes well in a sealed container for up to three months. If you prefer to make this pesto vegan, simply replace the Parmesan with 1–2 tablespoons of red miso paste.

R ECIPE + S T Y LING + PHO T OGR A PH Y

Rebecca Wellman 24

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White Bean and Roasted Potato Salad with Arugula Pesto Serves 4–6

Pesto 1 jalapeño 1 head garlic ¾ cup, plus 1 tsp extra virgin olive oil, divided 2 packed cups fresh arugula 1 packed cup fresh basil leaves ⅓ cup toasted walnuts ⅓ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese Zest and juice of one large lemon Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Salad 1 540 mL can white cannellini beans, rinsed and drained well 3 lb baby potatoes, halved ¼ cup olive oil 4 cups fresh arugula 6 scallions, thinly sliced 4–6 radishes, thinly sliced Fresh lemon juice as needed Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Heat oven to 350°F. Line a large rimmed sheet pan with parchment paper. Place the whole jalapeño on the sheet pan. Cut the top off the garlic head so ¼ inch or so of each clove is revealed. Drizzle with 1 tsp olive oil. Wrap the whole head tightly in aluminum foil and place on the sheet pan with the jalapeño. Roast for 30 minutes. Transfer the jalapeño to a small plate and continue roasting the garlic until fragrant and soft, about another 20 minutes. Open the foil and let the garlic cool.

Increase the oven heat to 375°F. Keep the prepared sheet pan.

In the bowl of a food processor, combine the arugula, basil, walnuts, Parmesan, lemon juice, and lemon zest. Cut the stem off the jalapeño and remove seeds if desired. (Leaving the seeds intact will make the pesto a little on the spicier side.) Roughly chop the jalapeño and add to the food processor.

Squeeze the softened garlic out of the papery shells into the food processor.

Process this mixture until combined but still a little chunky for a bit of texture.

Add ¾ cup of olive oil and process briefly so the texture remains, about 15 seconds. Season with salt and pepper.

In a large serving bowl, combine the beans and about a ¼ cup of the pesto.

Set aside.

Toss the potatoes with ¼ cup olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

Spread out onto the sheet pan and roast, tossing halfway through, until tender, about 30 minutes.

Add the potatoes to the beans and let cool for about 5 minutes. Toss in the arugula, scallions, and radishes, and add more pesto to taste (you will have extra!) adjusting for seasoning. Add a bit more lemon juice if desired (I recommend it). Serve immediately, or at room temperature.

You can make the pesto up to two days ahead, keeping it covered in the fridge.

Bring the pesto to room temperature before assembling the salad.

CRAFT

CARE

CHAOS

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W i l l T r av e l

The Str eets of Lor eto

Trip #1

Julie Pegg explores the farmer’s market and samples the street food in this scenic and historic town hidden away on Mexico’s stunning Baja Peninsula.

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y 7 a.m. each Sunday in Loreto Mexico, Baja del Sur, the locals wind their way among the market stalls that are set up along the dry dusty gulch on the outskirts of the small town. Brushing off my equally dusty Spanish as the vendors speak no English, by 8 a.m. I am hauling mangos, tomatoes, peppers, dried beans, eggs, cabbage, cilantro, cheeses, chorizo … and lots of limes back to my Airbnb in Zaragoza, a barrio just across from the gulch. I swear my arms have become two inches longer.

Taking my cue from the apartment’s well-equipped kitchen and the homegrown fare I’ve enjoyed in the town’s restaurants (just off the griddle homemade flour or corn tortillas, fresh cotija or asadero cheeses for crumbling onto a taco or into a quesadilla, and ceviches bright with lime, chilies, and cilantro), I take to prepping my own meals to savour on the breezy patio. Cooking on holiday may not be everyone’s bottle of cerveza (beer), but for me, access to fresh, local food gets the creative juices flowing.

About 8 a.m. another day I hearken to the blast of a megaphone perched atop the tamale car. A señora fishes out two tamales, one stuffed with chicken and salsa verde, the other with carne de res (beef ) from an insulated cooler. Each delicious cornmeal packet is accompanied by fresh slaw and dense enough to last two meals.

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After a sunrise walk, a mango, lime, and banana smoothie goes down a treat with one of the pastries that are hawked from the trunk of another vehicle. I’m particularly partial to the sweet/savoury roll stuffed with soft fresh cheese (queso fresco) and a sliver of jalapeño pepper. Other mornings I fill a griddled flour tortilla with scrambled eggs and green onion, and top with piquant pico de gallo. Lunch or supper might be sea-salt-flecked padron peppers followed by a tangy tuna or prawn ceviche, or a chunky piquant version of refried beans alongside a corn tostada layered with grilled chorizo, queso fresco, and zesty slaw, or perhaps a poached chicken breast shredded onto a tortilla, topped with fresh tomatillo salsa, crumbled cheese, and a dash of a fiery bottled sauce.

How to cook a “true paella” is the subject of intense debate. While hundreds of variations exist, authentic paella does not include seafood, a curious revelation for a port city also known for its seafood. This is a countryside dish that was once prepared in the orchards, so a traditional paella contains rabbit, chicken, snails, and beans.

For many vacationers, eating every meal out is part of a holiday perk. Then again, a passion for shopping and cooking in a different culture may invigorate and inspire. They certainly do for me. JULIE PEGG

Mor e Th a n Just Pa ell a

Trip #2

Spain’s third largest city, and one of its oldest, is deservedly famous for its signature rice dish, but the rest of Valencia’s food culture is equally rich and varied.

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ave you ever been on vacation and flirted with the idea of moving to your holiday destination permanently—even while sober? When visiting Valencia this spring, I met plenty of expats who have done just that. When you consider its Mediterranean climate, vibrant food culture, and affordable lifestyle, it’s not surprising.

Located on Spain’s southeastern coast, Valencia is famous for its paella, where it’s believed to have originated. We happened upon a paella festival in the old town square the first day we arrived and watched chefs prepare the saffron-infused rice dish in enormous paella pans, about a metre in diameter. Made from the region’s short-grained rice, paella is traditionally served as a family meal for Sunday lunch.

We sampled numerous paella (many disappointing) before we fully appreciated its widespread appeal. At Casa Carmela, a beachside restaurant famous for its paella, the dish is cooked over an open wood fire in the traditional manner. When our server brought our vegetarian paella to our table, the pan was so massive I gasped, but the depth of the rice is deceivingly shallow. All the better to achieve the “socarrat,” the intensely flavoured crust formed at the bottom of the pan, its most coveted part. The rice was firm and distinctive, the vegetables deliciously caramelized with a hint of smoke.

Valencia is much more than paella, though. Its food markets are second to none. Mercado Central, one of the largest indoor markets in Europe, is worth a visit

For Food to experience the startling selection of food vendors. A cathedral for food lovers, the sight of the sun streaming through the domed ceiling and stained glass windows is reason enough to pay homage. The selection of olives and fish alone are as staggering as the numbers of Iberian hams hanging in many of the market stalls.

With outdoor cafés on nearly every corner, street musicians, and vibrant nightlife, Valencia exudes joie de vivre. Its striking, futuristic architecture and old world charm embrace young and old. And with its fragrant orange blossoms, sandy beaches, and endless bike paths, it’s easy to understand how vacationers might never return home. DENISE MARCHESSAULT

E ating in the W indy Cit y Gillie Easdon travels to Chicago to renew a friendship and eat her way through the city’s downtown, River North, and Lincoln Park neighbourhoods.

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hicago. New tastes, new sights, and time to spend with my BFF Pagan.

On our first day, we took the Chicago’s First Lady architectural cruise guided by a Chicago Architectural Center docent. The details of the city’s famous skyline and our enthusiasm for its diversity focused our lens so we noticed more about everything, including the food.

Trip #3

We didn’t have any Chicago deep-dish pizza or barbecue rib tips. We did, however, devour a flaming saganaki at the Athena Restaurant, one of the city’s most popular outdoor dining spots. Chicago is not only the home of the world’s first skyscraper, it’s also considered the birthplace of saganaki. The breaded or floured cheese (often halloumi or sheep feta) is doused with ouzo or other high-proof alcohol and set on fire in a saganaki (a small frying pan).

Another highlight was the Athenian salad, featuring romaine, scallions, dill, kalamata olives, and feta—so refreshing and now part of my salad game.

The Gage, established in 2007 and located across from Millennium Park, is an iconic fine dining pub— dark wood, linens on the tables, and excellent service.

The soft, delicate, pale anchovy on the Caesar was perfect, but the tableside lobster bisque? The server gracefully poured the bisque around an ample scoop of fresh lobster—exquisite, salty, and rich.

Next was Tzuco. Chef/owner Carlos Gaytán was born in Huitzuco, Mexico, and headed to Chicago at the age of 20. After working his way up in restaurants, he eventually opened Mexique, a French-Mexican restaurant where, in 2013 and 2014, he became the first Mexican chef to receive a Michelin star.

The Chilaquiles Bloody Mary with house-made tortilla liquor, Bloody Mary mix, and lime juice was rejuvenating and transportive. The tortilla flavour worked beautifully in a beverage. The Tlayuda Pibil with crispy blue-corn tortilla, asiento, black beans, Guerrero-style cochinita pibil, burnt habanero, oil-pickled red onions, and cilantro was messy and complex for all its simple-delicious components.

On our last night, we went to Cafe Ba-Ba-Reba, Chicago’s original Spanish tapas bar (1985). We first sat at the bar, beneath three aging prosciuttos, then moved to a dimly lit room packed with vibrant conversation, sumptuous smells, chatty families, intense dates, and animated friends, clearly a Lincoln Park neighbourhood favourite. We dug into the Deviled Egg served with crispy jamón serrano; Chorizo-wrapped Date; Burrata with Tomatoes, Cucumbers, and Shishito Peppers; Beef Tenderloin and Blue Cheese; and Shrimp with Garlic, Olive Oil, and Red Pepper Flakes. Time and forks flew, and Spanish wine was enjoyed as we settled into the first place we would come back to next time. GILLIE EASDON

ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK.COM/EMILY_M_WILSON/MAYLAT/JAYSI/XMOCB

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Best Dressed Summer is salad season and these six dressings will make the most of the season’s fresh produce deliciously.

R ECIPE S

Isabelle Bulota Gary Hynes S T Y LING + PHO T OGR A PH Y

Isabelle Bulota 28 JULY/AUGUST 2022

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ost store-bought salad dressings are loaded with processed ingredients, preservatives, and refined sugar. These easy homemade dressings can be used for green salads, vegetable salads, seafood salads, grain salads, Buddha bowls … the possibilities are endless. Once you start making your own dressings, you’ll discover the proportions you prefer, and it will become very easy to prepare different variations.

Store your dressings in a glass jar or cruet with a tight-fitting lid so you can easily shake them when you need them. If you’ve made a basic dressing with just olive oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper, you can keep it on the counter or in the cupboard for several weeks. If your dressings are made with fresh ingredients or are dairy-based, they should be stored in the fridge and used within one week.

Buttermilk Parmesan Dressing Makes 1¼ cup (310 mL) 1 green onion 2 cloves garlic ½ cup (125 mL) mayonnaise (low fat if preferred) ½ cup (125 mL) buttermilk 2–3 drops anchovy sauce, or to taste Small pinch of paprika Small pinch of sea salt ¼ tsp (1.25 mL) freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbsp (30 mL) finely grated Parmesan cheese 2 strips bacon, cooked and crumbled (optional) Add green onion and garlic to food processor and pulse until finely chopped. Add mayonnaise, buttermilk, anchovy sauce, paprika, salt, pepper, and Parmesan cheese and purée until blended.

Pour into storage jar and then mix in bacon.

Keep refrigerated.

Balsamic Tarragon Vinaigrette Makes 1 cup (250 mL) ¼ cup (60 mL) balsamic vinegar 4 tsp (20 mL) lemon juice 1 tsp (5 mL) Dijon mustard ¼ cup (60 mL) extra virgin olive oil ½ cup (125 mL) light olive oil Large pinch of fresh tarragon, chopped Add the vinegar, lemon juice, and mustard to a food processor and mix well. With the processor running slowly, pour in the oils until emulsified.

Pour into storage jar and then mix in tarragon.

Keep refrigerated.

Ginger Sesame Dressing Makes 1¼ cup (310 mL) 2 Tbsp (30 mL) Thai fish sauce 2 Tbsp (30 mL) lemon juice 2 Tbsp (30 mL) rice wine vinegar 2 Tbsp (30 mL) soy sauce ¼ cup (60 mL) light olive oil 2 Tbsp (30 mL) Pernod ¼ cup (60 mL) sesame oil 2 Tbsp (30 mL) toasted sesame seeds 1 Tbsp (15 mL) finely grated fresh ginger Mix all ingredients in a bowl or directly in the storage jar. Keep refrigerated.

Walnut Dressing Makes 1 cup (250 mL) ¼ cup (60 mL) walnut oil ¼ cup (60 mL) peanut oil Juice from 1 lemon ¼ cup (60 mL) pulverized or very finely chopped walnuts Add all ingredients to a food processor and blend until combined. Keep refrigerated in a storage jar.

Maple Vinaigrette Makes 1 cup (250 mL) ¼ cup (60 mL) cider vinegar 2 Tbsp (30 mL) maple syrup 2 Tbsp (30 mL) hot mustard 1 Tbsp (15 mL) orange zest ½ cup (125 mL) olive oil Salt and pepper Add cider vinegar, maple syrup, hot mustard, and orange zest in a food processor and mix well. With the food processor running slowly, pour in the oil until emulsified. Season to taste. Keep refrigerated in a storage jar.

Avocado, Cilantro and Lime Vinaigrette Makes 1 cup (250 mL) 1 ripe avocado ½ cup (125 mL) olive oil ¼ cup (60 mL) lime juice ½ cup (125 mL) fresh cilantro, chopped 1 Tbsp (15 mL) minced garlic 5 mL (1 tsp) maple syrup Salt and pepper Add all ingredients to a food processor and blend until combined. Keep refrigerated in a storage jar.

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Sweet Endings It’s hard to beat these classic bars as the final, sweet-tart taste for a summer supper.

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hen we lived in Shelburne, Nova Scotia, my late husband Gary and I would go to church suppers. Everything was made from scratch, and you never knew what you’d get. Pot pies and salad, stew and homemade bread, or a thick chowder with fresh baked rolls, it was all good and warming during the wet winter months.

And then there were the desserts.

Squares, cakes, pies, and puddings were tantalizingly displayed, ready for the eating.

JACQUELINE DOWNEY

One of our favourites was a lemon bar made by an older lady named Betty.

Gary loved them so much, she finally gave him the recipe after four years of asking. I don’t know where she got it, whether it was a family recipe handed down or one she found in a cookbook or magazine, but those were his favourite lemon bars he had ever tasted.

Serve them with raspberry sorbet, lemon sherbet, vanilla bean ice cream, or a fruit salad for an easy dessert at a summer barbecue or dinner. CYNTHIA ANNETT-HYNES

Crust

Betty’s Lemon Bars

1 cup butter 2 cups icing sugar 2 cups flour

Topping

4 eggs, well beaten 1⅔ cups white sugar Zest of 2 lemons 6 Tbsp lemon juice 1 tsp baking powder 4 Tbsp flour 1 cup shredded coconut (optional) Pinch of salt Preheat oven to 350°F.

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Crust

Cream together butter and icing sugar in a stand mixer then add the flour and mix well (it will be a dry dough).

Spread in a 15-by-10-inch jelly roll pan and pat down.

Bake 15 minutes on the middle rack of a 350°F oven until pale tan in colour.

Topping

Mix sugar and eggs together in stand mixer. Add lemon zest and juice and mix well. Add flour, salt, and baking powder and mix well. Add coconut if using and mix. Pour over crust.

Bake for 25 minutes on the middle rack of a 350°F oven. Let cool and cut into bars or squares.

Will keep in a covered container for four days. Can be frozen for up to a month.

Any way you slice it

Yield: This recipe makes many treats.

Whether rectangular or square, you can get 30 to 48 pieces, depending on how large or small you make them. I let it cool almost completely, loosen the edges, and slide the whole batch out onto a cutting board. Then I cut into the size I want. Easy peasy.

Dare to share.

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