Torch ZucchiniLessZero-AlcoholSongisMoreishMadness RESTAURANTS | RECIPES WINES | FOOD | CULTURE Smart. Local. Delicious. 23 years at the forefront of local food and drink INDEPENDENT & ISLAND OWNED 26-05ISSUE2022OCTOBER|SEPTEMBER ®
We were sorry to hear the news that Farm Folk, City Folk had to make the difficult decision to postpone the Vancouver Island Feast of Fields until 2023. While restaurants, wineries, breweries, and farms were incredibly supportive of the Vancouver Island Feast, industry-wide labour challenges have prevented many from participating this year. If you are heading to the mainland, there is still a chance to join the Feast this year at the Metro Vancouver (Sept. 11) and Okanagan Feast of Fields (Sept. 18). farmfolkcityfolk.ca
If you haven’t got your 2022 Islands Passport yet, it’s not too late! The Islands Passport allows you to explore over 20 wineries, breweries, distilleries, and cideries on Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands. When you purchase the Passport, you get exclusive access to tasting flights and discounts on vendors’ products. You can take your time exploring each vendor’s tasting room as the Passport is valid until June 2023. $39.00, purchase online. shop.cheeseandmeatfestival.com
Congratulations to two of our regular EAT contributors, Denise Marchessault and Deb Garlick, on the recent publication of their beautiful new cookbook, The Artful Pie Project, A Sweet and Savoury Book of Recipes. This volume features over 50 recipes covering the pie spectrum from galettes to pastry dumplings and slab crumbles, plus French Canadian classics such as Tourtière and Tarte au Sucre, and will be a welcome addition to every baker's cookbook shelf. $39.95, Whitecap Books Ltd.
ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK.COM/COSMAA CITY EATS
C YNTHIA ANNETT-HYNES EDITOR AS WE HEAD INTO the –ber months, I’m unearthing some sweaters, raking some leaves, and enjoying some cooler nights. It’s time to harvest the garden, pick the fruit on the trees, and enjoy our Island bounty. Happily, most farmers markets are open until mid-October; those of us with smaller gardens can stock up. We tried out two stuffed vegetable recipes for this issue and a delightful way to use zucchini. We checked out some restaurants and cafes for you to try on your autumn travels. Cinda Chavich dives into her Balkan heritage with delicious results, Gillie Easdon searches for non-alcoholic cocktails, and Rebecca Wellman gives us a Vietnamese noodle salad with the fall in mind. We hope you enjoy the read, make the recipes, and try out the establishments and wines discussed. And please support our advertisers—a genuinely great group of food and drink shops, products, and restaurants. We couldn’t do this without them. A party without cake is just a —Juliameeting.Child
WOOD FIRED www.900degrees.caITALIAN 9000 BiSTR0 C O L L E C T O R ’ S W I N E A U C T I O N B . C . W I N E B A S K E T S W H I S K Y & S P I R I T S D I N I N G & G I F T C E R T I F I C A T E S w w w . b e l f r y . b c . c a / c r u s h 2 5 0 3 8 5 6 8 35 O n l i n e A u c t i o n : B i d d i n g o p e n O c t o b e r 2 4 3 0 , 2 022 An online bene t for the Crush P r e s e n t e d b y A F i n e W i n e A u c t i o n supportedGenerouslyby
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For advertising and other inquiries: PHONE 250-384-9042 / 778-350-6962 sales@eatmagazine.caeditor@eatmagazine.ca ONLINE EatMagazine.ca MAILING ADDRESS Box 5225, Victoria,
artofthecocktail ca Crush, A Fine Wine Auction, will continue to be in its online format in 2022. This benefit for the Belfry Theatre is a carefully curated auction featuring a great selection of fine wine generously donated from the private collections of individuals and local businesses. Whether you are an experienced oenophile or simply a lover of good wine, you will find an excellent range of spectacular wines. Also on offer are lots from BC wineries, including gift baskets and packages, dining, travel, and other unique experiences in every price bracket. The auction runs Oct. 24–30. belfry.bc.ca/crush Many of our local farmers markets carry on through mid-October, and if you’re up for some island hopping, the 23rd annual Salt Spring Apple Festival will be held on Oct. 2 this year. All host farms will be open for apple lovers. More details to come on the website.
The Esquimalt Ribfest is the largest family charity event on the South Island, drawing in up to 40,000 visitors. Running from Sept. 9–11 this year, Ribfest is organized and run by volunteers to support the project to provide Esquimalt with an all-weather playing field. Ribs are prepared on-site by six professional rib teams, all working for the coveted People’s Choice Award. There will also be local craft brewers and cider and wine available. Live music and free children’s crafts and activities. esquimaltribfest com
saltspringapplefestival org Cinda Susan Worrall ADVERTISING ACCOUNT Ron Metella CONTRIBUTING iStock.com pages 3,
CITY EATS I’m excited for this one: the former head chef at Be Love, Mat Clarke, is opening a new restaurant, End Dive, at the corner of Government St. and Herald St. More news to come. enddiverestaurant com Rock Bay Market’s Bird & Basket Truck is the newest addition to Victoria’s food truck scene. It has been spotted serving locally sourced, wild, seasonal cuisine at the Esquimalt Farmers Market and the Summer Lunch Series at Point Ellice House. We’re hoping we’ll see more of it around town this fall. rockbaymarket.ca
BC, V8R 6N4 STOCKISTS EAT is delivered to over 200 pick-up locations in BC. PRINTED IN CANADA EAT® is a registered trademark. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior written permission of Pacific Island Gourmet / EAT Magazine. EST. 1999 Visit eatmagazine.ca for more articles, recipes, news and events. On the cover: Stuffed Peppers Styling + Photography: Isabelle Bulota Recipe on page 25 Parry Bay Sheep Farm along with Stillmeadow Farm sells lamb, pork and roasting chicken to restaurants and butcher shops in Victoria and through our on-farm market in Metchosin. We truly appreciate those who “walk the talk” and support local producers. From picturesque pastures to backyard barbecues Parry Bay lambs make people smile. Parry Bay Sheep Farm Metchosin, BC John & Lorraine Buchanan 250.478.9628 instagram: @parrybayfarm contact@parrybaysheepfarm.com facebook.com/parrybaysheepfarm www.parrybaysheepfarm.com facebook.com/ParryBayFarmMarket Bringing fresh new cider from our family to yours. junctionvictoria.com • 273 Prospect Lake Rd @junctionvictoria
This year, the Victoria International Wine Festival will return to its regular programming Sept. 18–24, including wine dinners, grand tastings, and seminars. Grand Tastings will take place at the Car Shop at Bayview Place. This festival showcases some of the best international wines and is directed at building the average wine consumer’s knowledge, demonstrating new wines, and acknowledging beloved wine standards to veteran consumers. vicwf com British Columbia’s capital city is where Brewery & the Beast was born! On Sept. 25, chefs and hospitality experts will gather from all over Vancouver Island to throw down a truly West Coast experience. This Vancouver Island festival delivers a unique blend of cooking techniques, food philosophies, and Island-grown ingredients to create a meaningful and memorable culinary event. breweryandthebeast.com Vancouver Island’s biggest cocktail celebration, the annual Art festival, is returning to the Crystal Gardens on Oct. 15. Grand Tasting tickets $69, VIP Tasting tickets $99.
MANAGER
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER FOUNDER Gary Hynes PUBLISHER Pacific Island Gourmet EDITOR Cynthia Annett-Hynes CONTRIBUTING EDITOR / COPY EDITOR Carolyn Bateman SENIOR WINE WRITER Larry Arnold ART DIRECTOR Cynthia Annett-Hynes PRODUCTION AND DESIGN Rhonda Ganz REGIONAL REPORTERS Victoria, Rebecca Baugniet CONTRIBUTORS Isabelle Bulota,
Chavich, Jacqueline Downey, Gillie Easdon, Deb Garlick, Camille Germain, Denise Marchessault, Elizabeth Monk, Elizabeth Nyland, Adrian Paradis, Adrien Sala, Shelora Sheldan, Johann Vincent, Rebecca Wellman REGIONAL/NATIONAL ACCOUNT MANAGER
LOCAL, SEASONAL, NATURAL
2225 OTTER POINT RD., SOOKE Haven’t visited Sooke’s market in a while and recall it shoehorned between a funky antique shop and a parking lot? Things have changed. The market is still Saturdays, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., but is now in a grassy field beside the municipal hall steps from John Phillips Memorial Park. Here Sooke area farms such as Silver Cloud, Livin’ the Dream, Bountiful Bay, and Red Earth sell plants and fresh produce while talented food artisans such as Knead Want Bakery and Kaidyn’s Cookies (son of Silver Cloud Farm owners Teresa Willman and Matt Robertson) provide yummy carbs.
GORGE PARK, 1070 TILLICUM RD. (MONDAYS, 4:30–7:30 P.M.)
NORTH SAANICH FARM MARKET
ALISA SMITH and J. B. MacKinnon wrote The 100 Mile Diet back in 2007, local and seasonal eating wasn’t new.
GOLDSTREAM FARMERS MARKET
SOOKE COUNTRY MARKET
Eating in harmony with the biorhythms of nature is the antidote to industrialized food.
WHEN VANCOUVERITES
ESQUIMALT FARMERS MARKET
VETERANS MEMORIAL PARK, LANGFORD Land of big box stores and, increasingly, big city density, Langford still has a vibrant farmers market at Veteran’s Memorial Park every Saturday, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Check out fresh produce from Killpi Farms, Littler Farms, and Lohbrunner Community Farms, then take one of Jessica’s cookies to the playground to enjoy.
10990 W. SAANICH RD., NORTH SAANICH Good music, a great crop of vendors that includes local farms, a bakery, and a winery, as well as a sweet garden to explore, and even a pristine little thrift shop right next door make heading out to North Saanich on a Saturday morning (9:30 to noon) a delightful weekend jaunt. The market has a backyard party vibe because it is indeed held in someone’s backyard—that of the communityminded St. John’s United Church.
A 2017 Stanford University study published in the journal Science gave scientists a clue to why. Researchers studied members of a remote huntergatherer tribe in Tanzania, the Hadza, to see how a digestive system unadulterated by industrial food functioned. They discovered that the Hadza’s microbes changed dramatically with each season, in harmony with seasonal dietary changes and the biorhythms of nature. Eating seasonally and locally makes sense in all kinds of practical ways. Travel is hard on living things (think about your last gruelling flight—and that was just getting through airport security). Fresh food begins losing vital nutrients as soon as it’s picked. Less travel means less carbon release for the planet and less packaging. And eating locally supports local economies and preserves all-important farmland. But nature has also designed foods for the unique qualities of that season. Cucumber and celery are packed with water and electrolytes needed during hot weather. Winter’s root veggies literally help us feel “grounded” through the colder months. And now, thanks to gut microbiome research, we know our digestive microbes change seasonally, ready to break down those local and seasonal foods and turn them into energy. That is, of course, if the global food system isn’t tantalizing us with strawberries in January and asparagus in October. PLAY THE MARKET Buying food fresh from the farm is a joy-filled experience and the south Island has lots of opportunities to buy local and seasonal produce. Supermarkets are starting to stock veggies from local farmers and many farms have their own shops. But it’s at the Island’s many farmers markets where one can truly appreciate the current renaissance of local food, and fall is the perfect time to think like a squirrel and preserve food for the winter. It needn’t be complicated; freezing actually preserves more nutrients than canning and it’s Featuredsafer.inthe sidebar are four markets slightly off the beaten path. All, except Esquimalt’s, operate until October. To find out more, see the market map in EAT’s May/June 2022 issue, or check out the listings at bcfarmsandfood.com.
5 Good for You CAROLYN BATEMAN
Iconic restaurants like Alice Waters’s Chez Panisse in Berkeley and Vancouver Island’s own Sooke Harbour House had championed the farm-to-table approach for decades. But something about the logistical challenge of eating only food grown 100 miles from your kitchen table hit home for folks. I know it did for me. I realized the wheat for my bread, though baked blocks away, was probably grown more than a thousand miles away. The book became a global phenomenon and 15 years later, there’s wheat and barley growing on Vancouver Island. More of us grow our own food, and farms and markets are popping up like fungi after a fall rain. When we eat seasonally and locally, we emulate how people ate before food became an industrialized commodity. Recently, scientists have been studying how this modern, industrial diet is changing our gut microbiome. Certain species of beneficial bacteria, so essential to good digestion, are simply disappearing from our digestive tracts.
When we think farmers markets, the 30-year-old Moss Street Market comes to mind. But Esquimalt’s, which began in 2015, is fast becoming just as much a destination. Monday’s typically has 40 vendors, Thursday’s 65, from larger farms like Lockwood and Suntrio to smaller ones like Bird and Bean. On Mondays, combine shopping with a Gorge Waterway walk and a gander at the striking new, teahouse-inspired Esquimalt Gorge Park Pavilion.
ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK.COM/KATERYNA FIRSOVA
MEMORIAL PARK, 1200 ESQUIMALT RD. (THURSDAYS, 4:30–7:30 P.M.)
Reporter The Fort on Fort Kanpai Asian Eatery Torch Song Papa Moe’s Café CategoryJumbo12 6 SEP TEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 ELIZABETH NYLAND Vegetarian Tacos at Category 12 WORDS Gillie CamilleAdrianEasdonParadisAdrienSalaGermainElizabethMonk PHOTOGRAPHY Johann ElizabethVincentNyland
7 CIBC WOOD GUNDY BLUE HERON ADVISORY GROUP VANCOUVERMADESOLUTIONSFRIENDLYENVIRONMENTALLYSUSTAINABLE,INVESTMENTRIGHTHEREONISLAND. Want to make a difference and still meet your financial goals? Let us show you how using proactive Environmental, Social and Corporate Governance (ESG) standards can do just that. We’ve been doing it for years. Right here in Victoria. Contact us today to learn how we help create more sustainable blueheronadvisorygroup@cibc.ca250www.blueherongroup.caportfolios.361-2284
Neil Chappell and Graham Isenegger are Investment Advisors and Portfolio Managers with the Blue Heron Advisory Group of CIBC Wood Gundy in Victoria BC. CIBC Wood Gundy is a division of CIBC World Markets Inc., a subsidiary of CIBC and a Member of the Canadian Investor Protection Fund and Investment Industry Regulatory Organization of Canada. CIBC Private Wealth Management consists of services provided by CIBC and certain of its subsidiaries, including CIBC Wood Gundy, a division of CIBC World Markets Inc. “CIBC Private Wealth Management” is a registered trademark of CIBC, used under license. “Wood Gundy” is a registered trademark of CIBC World Markets Inc. If you are currently a CIBC Wood Gundy client, please contact your Investment Advisor. Past performance may not be repeated and is not indicative of future results.
D ARE TO SHARE 778.265.6229 | www.laperobistro.net 1028 Blanshard Street, Victoria Lunch • Dinner • Sunday Brunch • Cheese Counter
GILLIE EASDON VINCENTJOHANN 777 FORT
“There are more nutrients.” My juice is deeply refreshing, and a nice counterpoint to the hot dog bomb I collect from the counter. Dense, juicy dog with rich chili and cheese on a croissant. I’m thrilled as I dig in. Fat carries flavour, so this fat on fat on fat on fat is fantastic, a bit outrageous, and it hits the spot. My hanger surrenders to delight. “It was a happy accident,” says Ceri, explaining the croissant as bun. I don’t finish the hotdog but box up a bit of the meat for my dog, Queso. I want to have a break, then move on to my next course at home. The Cortado that Ceri Barlow crafts is fantastic. Later on, I sample the sandwich. The crisp apple, soft prosciutto, and pickled fennel is bright and rich. The salad plays the roasted vegetables and cheese against the honey and horseradish dressing well. I gift the muffin to my son. He inhales it. The Fort is open Monday to Friday from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. They can also provide catering with notice for up to 50 people.
IT’S A STUPIDLY HOT day, and I’m hangry. I turn into VIATEC to check out Ceri Barlow’s latest food venture. I glance up at the Aurora-powered interactive chandelier, a shimmering, sound-sensing installation from Limbic Media; it’s stunning. I forget I’m starving. But then I spot the counter stacked with baked goods (including Village Butcher sausage rolls) and read over the solid, reasonably priced menu. This is The Fort, a new breakfast and lunch spot in the Fort Tectoria building.
The Fort on Fort
FORTONFORT.COM250-888-8091ST.
I order the pineapple, lime, and cucumber juice; the daily sandwich of prosciutto, pickled local fennel, pink lady apple, fresh herbed mayo, and cream cheese on a Crust Bakery ciabatta; and the daily salad with roasted Silver Rill beets and carrots with Caprano goat cheese, and a honey and horseradish dressing. Oh, and the lemon, blueberry, and sunflower muffin. Then I request the air-fried Nathan’s All Beef Frank Chili Dog with Refire’s Texas brisket and chorizo chili and cheese on a croissant. And a Mile Zero cortado. That should do it. My bill is less than $35. As I await my feast, people appear with empty plates from the offices above. “Amazing, again, Ceri and Tori, thank you,” is a consistent refrain. The Fort has counter service, with a couple of window-side ledges and stools if you want to eat in.
Ceri Barlow at The Fort
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“It’s whole fruit juice, not pressed,” Ceri explains.
990 BLANSHARD778-966-4888ST.
Izakaya will still be available for delivery, the intersection of Blanshard and Broughton Street is increasingly becoming a destination for entertainment and libations. In addition to the Royal Theater being kitty corner to Kanpai, this intersection also offers Clarke and Co. as well as Superflux {Cabana} as options for your late-night adventures.
Kanpai Asian Eatery and Bar
Cheers! Santé! Prost! Kanpai! Nearly every culture has its version of the same message: bottoms up! Kanpai Asian Eatery and Bar is here to celebrate that state of mind and provide snacks, drinks, and good times.
Owner and manager Medy Lao says that after all this time he’s ready to come back and is excited about his restaurant’s new look. Having seen the popularity of similar drinking and snacking locations in Vancouver, he decided to bring the experience to Victoria. Kanpai Asian Eatery’s interior lends itself to a party atmosphere with flashy neon lights, vintage posters, and bumping K-pop music. The menu offers mostly small plates perfect for pairing with drinks, including a selection of sashimi and oshi (or box-pressed) sushi. The salmon oshi sushi comes with strips of perfectly cut fish that are lightly torched and topped with slices of jalapeño peppers. There are also a few selections of Korean fried chicken, including chicken thigh skewers and fried drumsticks. Japanese yakitori skewers and gyoza dumplings are a couple of the other options.
9
ADRIAN PARADIS
VINCENTJOHANN
KANPAI IS THE WORD used in Japan and literally means emptying the cup, but similar-sounding phrases also exist in Chinese and Korean. While the name and concept are new, Kanpai Asian Eatery is a rebrand of what was Omakase Izakaya and Sushi Bar. Because building upgrades forced them to close in 2019, followed by the pandemic, the restaurant was delivery-only for nearly two years.
Included in the generous happy hour from 6 to 9 p.m. is a $10 beer-and-snack combo that will change daily, as well as late-night feature cocktails for $6. If you’re looking for something a little different, you can add boba pearls to your beer or a shot of booze to your bubble tea—the black sugar milk tea with Baileys is a fan Whilefavourite.Omakase
Johnson, (who co-owns both Bows & Arrows and Torch Song with Leesha Sabine) doesn’t want this new venture to be one thing forever. Taking cues from other industry folks who had trouble repositioning as the restaurant world stumbled through the pandemic, he wants to be able to do a few simple things well and then grow and adjust as the community—or the health authority—demands. Torch Song will do coffee, records, and books very well. But it will also do pastries, salads, bowls, and sandwiches well too, and they’ll have a few organic wines and other beverages beyond coffee.
ADRIEN SALA VINCENTJOHANN Complete menu online: www.abkhaziteahouse.com Join us for Lunch or Afternoon Tea in The Garden That Love Built Reservations Strongly Recommended 1964778-265-6466FairfieldRd.Victoria WE STEAK RAISEDISLANDONREPUTATIONOURIT 2032 OAK BAY AVE
10 SEP TEMBER/OCTOBER 2022
Drew Johnson prepping the space at Torch Song TORCHSONG.CAST.
Opening in late August/early September is a new café focusing on great coffee, food, vinyl, and books—and a cool space to enjoy it all.
MEETING AT TORCH SONG, Bows & Arrows Coffee Roasters’ new café (in what was formerly Salt & Pepper Fox), co-owner Drew Johnson quietly explains to me the thinking behind his new project. He describes it intentionally—as though he doesn’t want to say anything too concrete for fear of being locked into any single idea.
Torch Song
Bright and clean with a wall of records and books, it’s not exactly the kind of place you’d want to settle in for the day with a book. But you might enjoy an hour or so hanging out in one of the eight seats available at the coffee bar or leaning on the countertop at the window. A long-time fan of vinyl, Johnson has put together a collection of records (mostly available for purchase) that will play throughout the day while the baristas and cooks vibe out in the exposed kitchen/bar. The books will also be available for purchase, and the entire thing feels very much a place that people will make their own while it finds its own character. Open seven days a week during the day, Torch Song will be a great addition to what is fast becoming a restaurant district of its own. With Herald Street Brewery just down the road, End Dive opening a couple doors over, Brasserie L’Ecole kitty-corner to that, more restaurants and cafés within a block, and massive new condo developments going up in every direction, this little corner of town is becoming more vibrant by the day. And what better place to be than smack in the middle, with some good music, great coffee, and grab-and-go food to keep everyone happy?
“The main concept is just coffee, records, books—and there’s food, but that is really taking form as we see how things go.”
1812 GOVERNMENT
The owners of Cenote Lounge and Restaurant serve up in-your-face, big city street food at Papa Moe’s. GOOD EATING IS MORE than just the food. It’s the people behind it, their culture and history. Papa Moe’s, a New York-style eatery on Yates Street, is a wonderful reminder of this. I was curious about the name; I wanted to know who Papa Moe was. His picture hangs just above the counter, his warm, soft smile greeting every customer. The room is encircled in black-and-white photos of old New York, and 1940s-style jazz music plays in the background. As it turns out, Moe was an exceptional man and the grandfather of one of the owners, Seth Asch. Moses Asch came to New York with his family at the age of 10 and settled in Greenwich Village—a haven for artists, musicians, and writers. As a recording executive and engineer, he started the famous Folkways label and recorded and published folk music from often marginalized communities. Seth and co-owner Scott Lansdowne wanted to pay tribute to Moe and celebrate the spirit of inclusivity in Greenwich Village by serving traditional, quality food. Moe’s Yiddish heritage and love for Italian food are what inspire the menu at Papa Moe’s. That menu features sandwiches, burgers, and Staft Vurscht (Stuff was happy to see the “Gelded Cheesesteak” sandwich on the menu, as I find cheesesteak sandwiches curiously hard to find in Victoria. At $16, it was impressive: a soft hoagie bun stuffed with thinly sliced, tender sirloin from Two Rivers Meats, sautéed onions, green pepper with the perfect amount of crunch, and creamy warm provolone. The addition of poblano peppers gave it a hint of fire, and the velvety smooth aged cheddar (their famous “Cenote Sauce”) topped it o The “Reubenesque” sandwich was equally delicious. Served on soft Russian rye bread, the layers of meat were smoked in Montreal. Tangy Dijon complemented the traditional toppings of sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, and Russian dressing. The sandwiches and burgers are served with a pickle and house-made potato chips, but I would suggest upgrading to the waffle fries: the signature seasoning makes them better than any others I’ve tasted. With its impressive selection of locally made sodas, Papa Moe’s is a perfect lunch spot during the working week or ideal for a quick supper on Friday and Saturday nights when they stay open until 9 p.m.
New York Nosh
CAMILLE GERMAIN
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At Sea Crab Boil Spice. (add 1 cup white wine if desired)
Cook for 2 min. Add clams and mussels. Cook another 8 min., until all shells open. 4) While seafood is cooking, melt butter in small saucepan with whole cloves garlic. prawns will turn a bright red Thencolour.strain the whole shebang! 6) Serve warm (with a side of garlic butter) to the ones you love.
VINCENTJOHANN
766 YATES 250-590-0744ST.PAPAMOES.CA
FRESH SEAFOOD MARKET FOOD TRUCK
Papa Moe's Gelded Cheesesteak Sandwich
250.383.7760 27 ERIE STREET VICTORIA, BC FINESTATSEA.COM
12 SEP TEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 NYLANDELIZABETH
Eating Well For Less AND Good food needn’t be complicated but good condiments are required. Two eateries, one downtown, one in Saanichton, offer delicious proof. Café Jumbo 103–506 FORT ST., NEAR WHARF ST. 250-433-5535
STYLISH
The star is the sweet onion jam, a concoction of caramelized onions, a touch of apple cider vinegar, and chipotle adobo sauce. This provides a base for the runny egg, aged cheddar, and bite-sized pieces of bacon and romaine. An aioli made with confit garlic is spread on the crushable bun, adding yet more depth to the sandwich. I could eat this every day. An enticing lunch choice is the Warmer Weather Salad for $16. This tangy salad with sweet and spice notes features romaine tossed in lemon-based vinaigrette blended with cilantro, basil, chives, parsley, and confit garlic. On top is some sweetness in the form of honey-roasted cauliflower and house-pickled shallots, and some spice in the form of pepperoncini. Topping it all off is a jammy medium-boiled egg. The dessert of the day on my visit was Affogato for $6.50: a scoop of 49 Below vanilla ice cream with a shot of espresso poured over top, creating a sophisticated and creamy dessert with a hint of bitter from the coffee. Overall, the menu is carefully chosen, carefully made, and even available pre-prepared if you text or call in. The atmosphere is cheery thanks to the affable Kayla who runs the show.
Café Jumbo's Breakfast Sandwich Come check out Salt Spring Island's newest culinary hotspot, The Jam Factory at 319 Upper Ganges Road. Carefully curated preserves, cheeses, cured meats, and picnic provisions. saltspringkitchen.com 106 Superior St. | Reservations: 250.380.0088 | IlCovoTrattoria.ca Dinner ~ Wednesday to Sunday from 5pm Taste of Italy Cucina Italiana
SIMPLE
THE POPULAR AND STYLISH Little Jumbo restaurant spawned a calf in late 2020—a small breakfast and lunch joint called Café Jumbo. Open Monday to Friday, 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., the café specializes in a few carefully prepared breakfast and lunch items. A great way to start your day is the Breakfast Sandwich for $13.
2200 KEATING CROSS RD., NEAR CENTRAL SAANICH RD. 250-652-9668
LIKE A SCENE FROM a movie, you enter a grey industrial park, open a door to one unit, and pass into a world of colour, cool lighting, craft beer, and food.
Sample Category 12’s own craft beers at its Bistro and Tap Room and, even more fun, pair them with items from a menu by chef Chris Compton, who was mentored by the famed Castro Boateng. Compton has put together a small but well-executed menu of foods that go with beer. First, the flatbreads. For $16.50, I tried the Pierogi Flatbread, much like a tasty pizza without the tomato sauce. A layer of roasted potatoes and a generous amount of aged white cheddar—no mere sprinkling—is topped with a swirl of mustard aioli and a scattering of green onions. An excellent dish for mopping up some beer. A classic partner with beer is, of course, a burger. In a great example of a local partnership, Category 12 sends the spent grain from its brewing process to Brackenhurst Farm, then gets beef from them. The Category 12 burger maintains its meat-forward flavour while being accented with a house-made tomato jam warmed with cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, allspice, and coriander. The gourmet burger comes with a side of golden crispy roasted potatoes or a salad from nearby Plot Market Gardens. The salad dressing cleverly includes a dash of the brewery’s Juicy West Coast IPA for a bitter backnote to the honey, Dijon, and garlic. This goes for Vegetarians$16.are
13 ELIZABETH MONK
Category 12 Brewery and Bistro
NYLANDELIZABETH Pierogi Flatbread at Category 12 Inn at Laurel Point 680 Montreal @aurayyjaurarestaurant.caSt•#EatAtAura SHARE PLATES BRUNCH IS A THING BREAKFAST • BRUNCH • TEA FOR TWO • HAPPY HOUR • DINNER RESTAURANT Slaters FIRST CLASS MEAT 1983 LTD. Big on meaty meatballs! Comfort food — we’ve got you covered. 250.592.0823 ∙ 2577 Cadboro Bay Road
well taken care of with the Mushroom and Kale Tacos for $12. A creamy salsa made with pureed pumpkin seeds, cumin, coriander, and jalapeño is spread on the tacos as a base. This holds in the crispy fried mushrooms and wilted kale topped with house-made pickled vegetables and a salsa macha, much like a Chinese chili oil and made of sesame, poppy, and sunflower seeds. Like all the other dishes on the menu, the tacos have extra touches that take them from basic to excellent.
The flavours of Vietnamese food have always been some of my favourites. Spicy, salty, sour, and a bit of sweet. High notes of citrus and the depth of fish sauce, fresh herbs, and all those noodles. I could easily eat it three times a week. I’ve been inspired lately, mostly from a short trip to Portland where four of my best girlfriends and I feasted on some delicious Vietnamese food at Luc Lac —we ordered a table full of pho, sugar cane shrimp, spring rolls, papaya salad, a plethora of surprisingly good cocktails, and, of course, the vermicelli salad.
Grilled Steak Salad
Here is my version. It’s nice to plate the greens and dressed noodles, then let everyone top the salad with whatever they like. Extra mint and peanuts for me!
Sub It Out Beef is an important part of Vietnamese food—those wonderful beef broths—so I used it here. Good substitutes for those who don’t eat red meat—grilled/skewered shrimp or chicken or brined and sauteéd tofu.
Vietnamese
14 SEP TEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 RECIPE + STYLING + PHOTOGRAPHY
Rebecca Wellman
All the flavours of southeast Asia are contained in this colourful, crunchy, and protein-rich salad.
Lemongrass
2 Tbsp minced fresh mint leaves 1 Tbsp minced fresh ginger (1–2 inches)
1 head butter lettuce 1 small bunch fresh mint leaves, chopped 1 small bunch fresh cilantro leaves
½ cup water ½ cup rice vinegar 2 Tbsp granulated sugar 2 tsp salt 3–4 carrots, peeled and spiralized or cut into matchsticks
⅓ cup thinly sliced green onions ½ cup crushed roasted peanuts
1 Tbsp brown sugar 1 Tbsp fish sauce 1 Tbsp oyster sauce 1 Tbsp sesame oil
For the pickled vegetables
To make the pickled vegetables, combine water, sugar, vinegar, and salt. Stir until the sugar and salt are fully dissolved. Pour into a bowl and add the vegetables. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use, tossing occasionally. This is meant to be a subtle and sweet pickle, but adjust sugar or vinegar to your liking.
Notes: The daikon radishes you find in the grocery store are often huge and somewhat woody and tough. If you happen upon some at your local farmer’s market, they will likely be a manageable size, and a lot more crisp, fresh, and tender. And if you can’t find those, red radishes are a fine option. Fried shallots are a traditional topping for this type of salad and can be found at most Asian specialty shops in jars or bags. Alternatively, you can fry your own by slicing 3–4 large shallots very thin and deep frying until golden brown and crispy.
Lemongrass
To make the dressing, whisk all ingredients together, cover, and refrigerate until ready to use.
For the grilled steak 2 lbs sirloin steak 3 Tbsp minced fresh lemongrass (about 3 stalks)
4 oz fresh bean sprouts
1 Tbsp vegetable oil 2 cloves garlic, finely minced 2 tsp finely minced orange zest 1 red or green Thai chili, minced For the dressing 1 cup water ¼ cup granulated sugar 4 Tbsp fish sauce 4 Tbsp rice vinegar
Grilled Steak Salad Serves 4–6
3 Tbsp fresh lime juice 2 Tbsp fresh orange juice 2 tsp toasted sesame oil
½ cup crispy fried shallots (see notes)
Thinly sliced chili peppers to taste Fresh lime wedges for serving Trim the excess fat from the steak, then slice very thin, against the grain. Combine the lemongrass, mint, ginger, brown sugar, fish sauce, oyster sauce, sesame oil, vegetable oil, garlic, orange zest, and chili in a large bowl. Toss well with the steak, cover, and refrigerate for 2–3 hours. Keep in mind, the better cut of meat you use, the less time it will need to marinate (overmarinating can alter the texture). If you decide to use flank steak, for example, feel free to marinate overnight. Soak enough wooden skewers to accommodate all the meat. You can use 2 short skewers per person or 1 long. Soak in water for 2–3 hours.
2–3 cloves garlic, very finely minced 1 red or green Thai chili, very finely minced (optional)
½ lb rice vermicelli or mung bean noodles
Top the salads with the steak skewers and serve with lemon wedges and extra dressing.
Set a grill to medium-high heat. Thread the beef onto the skewers, taking care not to thread them too tightly together, as you want the smoke and heat from the grill to get in between the pieces and cook them evenly. Discard any remaining marinade. Grill the steak skewers for 10–12 minutes, rotating occasionally, so all sides get slightly charred. Remove from the grill and let rest for 5 minutes. In the meantime, cook the vermicelli noodles according to package directions. (This usually takes only a few minutes.) Rinse with cold water and drain well. Place in a large bowl. Top the noodles with the bean sprouts and toss well with half of the dressing. Place a few leaves of lettuce on individual plates and divide the noodles between the plates. Top with mint, cilantro, green onions, peanuts, shallots, and chili peppers as desired. You can also plate on one large serving platter or put the toppings in individual bowls and allow guests to top their salads themselves.
For the salad
1 small daikon radish (see notes) cut into matchsticks OR 6 red radishes, thinly sliced 4 mini cucumbers, thinly sliced
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Vietnamese
Mici (Carpathia)
As a travel writer, I went to Dubrovnik (when it was still Yugoslavia), visited the Czech Republic to explore the origins of Pilsner beer and dine in Prague’s historic cafés, and toured parts of mainland Greece, considered the southern tip of the Balkans.
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The melting pot of European flavours brought to Canada by immigrants from this part of the world stirs memories for many. T he jolting reality of war in Ukraine has me pondering the connection of food and culture, and the centuries of fluid borders and shared histories of people in Eastern Europe. It’s where I can trace some of my family’s roots, whether my mother’s Austrian grandfather or my father’s Serbian parents. The interesting thing is that they didn’t immigrate to Canada from Austria or Serbia. My great grandfather’s family came from an enclave of Austrian speakers in the Eastern Carpathians (then known as Bukovina) arriving in Saskatchewan in the late 1800s along with many from Austrian Galicia (now Lviv, Ukraine). My Serbian-speaking grandparents came to Canada in the 1920s from a village near Timisoara in western Romanian territory, which today, as Wikipedia reminds us, is “a multicultural city, being the home of 21 different ethnicities and 18 religions,” with “interculturality” a special characteristic of the region. It’s why the region we call the Balkans today—from Albania and northern Greece through Croatia, to Romania, Bulgaria, and Moldova (throw in Kosovo, Serbia, Macedonia, Montenegro, too)—offers a smorgasbord of distinct yet very similar cuisines.
Samale (Carpathia)
In fact, researching some of the dishes my grandmother cooked lead me to a melting pot of inspirations, whether her phyllo-like pastry for apple strudel and chesnitza (a sort of Serbian baklava), or the perogies, cabbage rolls, and fruit-based spirits still encountered across Central Europe (like the fiery Serbian plum-brandy slivovitz).
A long history of geopolitical upheaval has defined this part of the world—borders have moved many times, countries colonized, ethnic minorities shuffled—all the result of conflict, war, and political power grabs. Large swathes of the Balkan region were ruled by the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian empires for centuries, with some Slavic states forming Yugoslavia in 1918, and many countries under Soviet control until the dissolution of the USSR led to today’s independent states.
Though language and religion define these ethnic groups, they’ve long lived in mixed, overlapping communities, sharing a multitude of traditions, especially in the kitchen.
And though none of this has ever been trendy—save an apparently national penchant for perogies—these Eastern European food traditions may now be having a moment. Even before Putin’s war, there was renewed interest in Balkan cuisine.
Trending Flavours
For my parents and me, all born in Canada, it’s only a shared surname and a few culinary traditions that connect us to our European ancestors. But the love of those old-country foods runs deep.
Sweets range from palacinke (crêpe-like pancakes filled with jam or cream) to multi-layered tortes, fruit strudel, sugar-dipped doughnuts and fritters, and nutty walnut breads.
My Balkan Food Dreams WORDS Cinda Chavich
According to Technomic, a research group that tracks food trends, nearly one quarter of all consumers and 31 percent of Gen Z’s and Millennials in 2020 said they would like to see more Balkan influences on restaurant menus. And some 16 percent of consumers were looking for specific regional Balkan restaurants, such as Albanian or Bulgarian spots to dine.
Though I have never visited my own ancestral homelands, the food from all of these countries is so familiar it is part of a culinary muscle memory that informs my palate.
“Cereals like bulgur and couscous, vegetables and pulses, herbs and spices, and grilled meats and stews are all staples in the region,” notes the Technomic report. “But each region—and each country within the greater area—has its own specialties, preparation techniques, and influences.”
Restaurant industry watchers note Balkan dishes often centre on lamb and pork, with fire-roasted vegetables (like the peppers and eggplant in ajvar), and pickled sides to serve with grilled lamb shashlik skewers rooted in Caucasus cuisine, skinless mici sausages (called cevapi in Bosnia, Serbia and Macedonia), savoury bourek pastries, and polenta.
Whether nature or nurture, it’s hard to say, but I’m always drawn to the flavour of roasted and fermented vegetables, smoked sausages and pork cracklings, potato dumplings, beets, garlic, and dill.
Saskatchewan, where our family’s culinary customs crossed with local Ukrainian, Polish, Hungarian, and Austrian cuisines. And though there are only a few dishes I recall from my grandmother’s kitchen—her beautiful chicken broth, flakey apple strudel, doughnuts, and braided breads—many of the recipes that have made it into my own repertoire and cookbooks over the years seem to share a Balkan bent.
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Macedonia: The Cookbook (2021, Interlink/Thomas Allen), by Toronto-born chef and caterer Katerina Nitsou, traces her family’s Balkan culinary heritage. It’s been shortlisted for a 2022 Taste Canada Award.
Though Nitsou now lives in Australia, she grew up in the Macedonian-Canadian community in Toronto, and her book chronicles the homestyle food her grandfather cooked in his restaurant there as well as recipes from across the Balkan Peninsula.
Carpathia, Food from the Heart of Romania (2020, Interlink), by Irina Georgescu, a Romanian food writer and cooking instructor in the UK, “takes the reader roaming through Romania from Transylvania to the Danube Delta while introducing dozens of satisfying recipes that express the landscape, culture and joys of traditional Romanian hospitality.”
As Georgescu notes, Romanian food is seasonal and influenced by many regional cuisines. “In summer we cook in the Turkish-Greek style and in the winter we turn to Slavic and Germanic recipes,” she writes. “Summers are for grilling meat, fish, and vegetables over open fires […] while winters are for braising cabbages, slow cooking hearty stew with potatoes and beans, and baking rich cakes.” These are beautiful books, with photography and cultural details that offer an armchair tour of this region and its culinary traditions as well as recipes you won’t find elsewhere. Recipes Make Memories Macedonia is a country at the heart of the Balkan region, bordering what is Serbia today, and it’s fascinating to me to see the kind of recipes Katerina Nitsou
Macedonian-CanadiangrowingencounteredupinToronto’scommunity.Georgescu’sRomanianfarefeelsequallyfamiliar.Igrewupin
Whether it’s fresh, soft, young cheeses and feta, zucchini fritters and roasted peppers, cucumber salads, cabbage rolls, white beans in salads, stews and dips, polenta and dumplings, cracked wheat and barley, smoky charcuterie, sour cream, honey, and lots of dill in everything, it’s a palette of ingredients I always return to.
I don’t pretend to understand the complexities of the historic conflicts in the region, but I do know that the melting pot of European flavours brought to Canada by immigrants from this part of the world stirs memories for many. And it’s a taste of home for me.
Pear strudel (Macedonia) Easy bourek (Macedonia)
And her new book, Tava (Fall 2022), explores Eastern European baking, “from Romania and beyond,” with “Armenian pakhlava, Saxon plum pies, Swabian poppyseed crescents, Jewish fritters, and Hungarian langoși, alongside plăcinte pies, alivenci corn cake, strudels and fruit dumplings.”
The Balkans in Books There are several new cookbooks focused on this part of the world, too.
See Balkan Recipes at eatmagazine ca Images courtesy of Macedonia by Katerina Nitsou Copyright © 2021. Photographs by Oliver Fitzgerald. Published by Interlink Publishing. Images courtesy of Carpathia, Food from the Heart of Romania by Irina Georgescu Copyright © 2020. Published by Interlink Publishing.
The Garden’s Most Enduring Vegetable
I f prizes were given to the most industrious vegetable, zucchini would be a strong contender. The summer squash soldiers on into the fall, challenging gardeners (and their friends) to come up with creative new ways to enjoy it. If you’ve had your fill of stir-fries and zucchini bread, here are a couple of recipes to revitalize your squash repertoire. Zucchini adds a subtle grassy note to savoury pancakes. Made from a batter of grated squash, Greek yogurt, shallots, and freshly squeezed lemon juice, these delicate pancakes make a great snack or light lunch. The trick to creating light pancakes is to remove as much moisture as possible from the squash before adding it to the batter. I discovered that roasting the grated squash—rather than, say, salting it or wringing it dry in a tea towel—yields the best results. Zucchini are mostly water and roasting removes the moisture and concentrates its subtle flavour. (Three cups of raw grated zucchini shrink to a scant cup after roasting.)
STYLING + PHOTOGRAPHY • ILLUSTRATION
Deb Garlick
See Denise’s recipe for stuffed zucchini on page 22.
Both the zucchini and the batter can be prepared a day in advance—always a bonus when entertaining. Zucchini pancakes are great on their own but even better with a splash of tahini herb dressing. Made of fresh mint, cilantro, lemon juice, and mayonnaise, the refreshing dressing is cut with tahini for a faint bitter note that complements more than pancakes and fritters. Try it drizzled over fish or poached eggs or tossed in a bean salad, to name but a few suggestions.
18 SEP TEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 Masterclass RECIPE + TEXT
Denise Marchessault
@faropizza
Continue with the balance of the batter. Serve immediately with Tahini Herb Dressing.
Makes about 1 cup ½ cup fresh mint, finely chopped 1 cup fresh cilantro, finely chopped ¼ cup tahini (mix well before using) ½ cup mayonnaise ¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 tsp hot sauce, such as Sriracha ½ tsp kosher salt
Roasting grated zucchini draws out the moisture and intensifies the flavour
Tahini Herb Dressing
Join us on FARO’s sun-drenched patio or modern tasting room and bar to experience our take on a traditional Italian Aperitivo Hour
¼ tsp white sugar 2 Tbsp water
In a blender or food processor or with an emulsion blender, purée all the ingredients until smooth. If you prefer a thinner consistency, add additional water by the teaspoon. Cover and store in the refrigerator.
Makes eight 5-inch pancakes. You’ll need a wellseasoned cast-iron pan or non-stick skillet. 3 cups grated zucchini (using the small hole of the grater), about 3 medium squash 3 whole eggs 6 Tbsp milk, 2% or whole ½ cup plain Greek yogurt, 2% or whole ⅓ cup all-purpose flour ½ tsp kosher salt ½ tsp minced garlic, ideally on a microplane grater, about 1 clove 2 tsp finely minced shallot 1 Tbsp plus 2 tsp freshly squeezed lemon juice Vegetable oil for frying Preheat oven to 375°F. Spread the grated zucchini on a parchment or foil-lined baking tray, smoothing the squash with a spatula to create an even layer. Bake for 30–40 minutes or until most of the moisture has been removed. Halfway during baking, remove the pan from the oven and carefully turn the squash over, moving the darker edges to the centre of the pan. (It’s OK if some of the zucchini browns, but discard any burnt bits.) Smooth the squash level with a spatula again so it cooks evenly. The zucchini will reduce significantly—you should be left with about one cup. Place the eggs, milk, yogurt, flour, salt, garlic, shallot, and lemon juice in a blender and process until smooth, occasionally scraping down the sides of the blender with a spatula. Pour the batter into a medium bowl, add the cooked zucchini, and mix by hand until wellcombined.
TO FRIDAY 1:00 PM - 4:00 PM
Heat 1 tsp oil in a non-stick skillet or cast-iron pan and swirl the pan to coat the base with oil. When it starts to shimmer, add ¼ cup batter and, using the back of a spoon, spread the batter into a circle about 5 inches diameter, leaving space between each pancake. When bubbles appear at the edges and the underside has browned (lift the edge with a spatula to check), flip the pancake over and continue to cook until lightly browned and cooked through.
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Tangy Tahini Herb Dressing complements more than zucchini pancakes. Try it drizzled over poached eggs, fish or your favourite vegetables.
HOURAPERITIVOHOURAPERITIVO
Enjoy a variety of feature cocktails, appetizers and wine flights, all on special throughout the week.
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Zucchini Pancakes
20 SEP TEMBER/OCTOBER 2022
A minimalist approach to cooking is simple and affordable, yet decidedly tasty.
Taking cues from the cuisines of the world, research reveals a bounty of simple recipes created out of necessity. These dishes, gleaned from what was available, wild, and edible, served to fill you up and provide nutrition.
IF YOU’RE FEELING THE pinch from the increasing cost of food, there’s no better time to adopt a waste-not-want-not attitude. I have become more mindful of using up leftovers, and I’m keeping an eye on the sale flyers from the grocery store with renewed interest. Multiple ingredient cooking is being put on the back burner for now—sorry Ottolenghi—while I turn my interest to a minimalist approach in the kitchen.
Italy’s cucina povera (literally meaning poor kitchen) is a prime example. Many of the dishes are considered classics to this day: the stewy concoction of pasta and fagioli (beans); spaghetti with aglio, olio, e peperoncino (garlic, olive oil, and chilies); and delicious panzanella, a salad made using chunks of stale bread, given new life combined with ripe red tomatoes, basil, olive oil, and, depending on what’s on hand, fresh vegetables. All simple and flavourful.
The French have a wonderful singular ingredient salad of grated carrots tossed in a simple honey-Dijon mustard vinaigrette. Some versions add in toasted walnuts or raisins, but I find that late harvest carrots all alone, with their natural sweetness, are best. It can even makes a lovely first course. Garlic, used as a front-and-centre ingredient, is renowned worldwide. Many cultures have a garlic soup, including my favourite recipe from French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten that requires four heads of garlic, thinly sliced and simmered in chicken broth, with an egg beaten in at the last minute. It’s deeply comforting and would keep any vampire at bay. Skordalia, a Greek-based dip uses raw cloves of garlic together in a mortar and pestle with cooked potatoes and olive oil—it’s crazy good!
We’ve probably all used leftover bread to make great croutons and crumbs. Those stale heels can also be soaked in milk and added to plump up meatballs or made into a bread dumpling and served with a simple tomato sauce. Bread pudding is a welcome sweet dessert in winter combined with summer fruits from the freezer.
And on the savoury side, panade, a type of bread soup, can be made with cabbage, onions, and hot stock, with or without cheese. (Panade also refers to bread and milk mixed together to bind other ingredients). And then there’s bread sauce, a classic British sauce made with milk and breadcrumbs, onions, and spices, and typically served with roast chicken or turkey.
LESS IS MOREISH
Potatoes can tide one over during the winter months, especially the many versions of scalloped potatoes, with or without cream, milk, or cheese (thank you, Julia Dish discover more, sign up, and shop online at strathliquor.com
Side
Corn masa replaces bread in Mexico. Stale tortillas are turned into tostadas, or nachos, or used in the classic dish of chilaquiles, tortilla pieces fried, cooked in red or green salsas, and sprinkled with cheese). And any leftover fresh masa can be made into peneques—a rustic corn dough dumpling that is also served in a tomato sauce—or used as a thickener in many types of moles.
Panzanella, a delicious salad made using chunks of stale bread
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21 Child). A classic Indian chaat (Indian street food) recipe is aloo tikki, mashed potato cakes mixed with spices and fried, and often served in a burger bun with optional cooked instant noodles. Another savvy strategy to stretch a dollar is to seek out the reduced section in your grocery store for vegetables or fruits past their prime. Many independent grocers offer this. Fruits can be juiced or added to smoothies, and vegetables can be added to soups or ragouts. Meat or cheese ends from the deli department can usually be had for a song and used in soups, sauces or sandwiches. If you’re not already doing this, stalks from parsley, Swiss chard, and kale can be put aside and frozen to use in future soups or stocks or added to stir-fries. Use grains, legumes, or pulses as building blocks to stretch ingredients, adding in vegetables, herbs, and cheese, for a hearty, nourishing meal. Roasting ingredients first will change their flavour profiles, taking a dish in another direction. I’m always looking for ideas with this minimalist theme in mind, and I’ve come across a few books that use the premise to great effect. In his inspiring book Three Good Things on a Plate, chef Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall uses a maximum of three ingredients to cover every topic from salads and starters, soups and sides, vegetable and fish dishes to meats, pasta, rice, and “triple treats” for the sweet tooth. His soup of roasted parsnips, garlic, and blue cheese is deeply flavoured and one of my winter favourites. The Kitchen Diaries by food writer and cook Nigel Slater is a journal of his everyday cooking documented over a year, and the recipes, loosely based on seasonal ingredients, are simple throw-togethers, often with big bold flavours. His recipe for roast chicken wings with lemon and cracked pepper, for example, adds the lemon rind along with its juice, as well as whole bay leaves. These two additions become roasted and crispy and completely delicious, making chicken wings that are sticky and moreish. Whether you’re feeling the pinch, or your cooking is stuck in a rut, a minimalist approach could be just the ticket to tasty inspiration. SHELORA SHELDAN ISTOCK.COM/ANNA_SHEPULOVA
22 SEP TEMBER/OCTOBER 2022
To prepare the squash: Slice in half lengthwise and place cut side up on a baking tray lined with parchment or foil. Brush the cut side of each squash with a bit of oil and sprinkle with a pinch of kosher salt. Bake 30–40 minutes or until the zucchinis are soft and tender. When the squash is cool enough to handle, scoop out the flesh with a small spoon, being careful not to cut through to the skin. Reserve the flesh and return the squash to the baking tray.
STYLING + PHOTOGRAPHY • ILLUSTRATION Deb Garlick W hen zucchini are halved lengthwise and roasted, the flesh becomes meltingly soft and tender, making it easy to hollow into savoury “boats.” The scooped-out squash is combined with a flavourful stew of pan-roasted tomatoes, marinated artichoke hearts, celery, kale, and tart capers. Similar to ratatouille, the filling includes a splash of vinegar and a pinch of sugar, giving it an irresistible sweet/ tart edge that gets even better after lingering a day or two in the fridge. (The filling also makes a stellar crostini topping.) The filling is heaped onto the hollowed-out squash, topped with crumbled feta (or goat cheese), and reheated in the oven just before serving. Stuffed zucchini can be made entirely in advance. As if you need another excuse to enjoy the garden’s most enduring vegetable.
Stuffed Zucchini Squash can be made entirely in advance and reheated before serving
Stuffed Zucchini Squash Makes six 3 medium zucchini squash, about 1½ pounds Vegetable oil, about 2 Tbsp Kosher salt 1 cup diced onion, about 1 medium ½ cup sliced celery, about 1 stalk 1 cup chopped kale, tough stems removed 1 cup chopped tomatoes, ideally greenhouse cherry tomatoes, about 6 oz ¾ cup chopped marinated artichoke hearts (from a jar, not a tin), tough outer leaves discarded 1 Tbsp plus 1 tsp capers, rinsed ¼ tsp dried red pepper flakes 1 Tbsp cider vinegar or white wine vinegar 1 tsp granulated sugar 6 Tbsp feta or goat cheese, crumbled Preheat oven to 375°F.
To prepare the filling: Heat 1 Tbsp oil in large skillet. Add the onions and celery and ½ tsp kosher salt. Cook over medium heat until soft, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. Add the kale and stir just until wilted, about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, artichoke, capers, red pepper flakes, reserved squash flesh, and ¼ tsp of kosher salt. Cook over medium heat until the tomatoes break down, the liquid has reduced, and the mixture is fairly dry. (If it’s too watery, the squash “boats” will not retain their shape.) Add the vinegar and sugar and mix well. Taste and season with additional salt, if desired. Divide the filling between the squash and top each with about 1 Tbsp of cheese. Bake until heated through, about 15 minutes.
RECIPE + TEXT Denise Marchessault
STUFF IT ❁ 1
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24 SEP TEMBER/OCTOBER 2022
RECIPE Isabelle Bulota STYLING + PHOTOGRAPHY Isabelle Bulota Of all the foods you can stuff and load, peppers are my favourite little bowls to fill with wholesome ingredients and go wild with toppings; peppers provide the perfect container for a wide variety of fillings. Here, I tried to keep them healthy with nutritious ingredients, without forgetting the fun of making them decadent. Enjoy!
• You can find bone broth and ground boar (and other game meat) at Health Essentials, 300 Gorge Rd. W., #101, in Victoria.
1½ cup (375 mL) mushrooms, chopped 4 cups (1 L) chopped kale 4 cloves garlic, chopped thinly Sea salt and ground black pepper, to taste
On a sheet pan lined with parchment paper, toss the peppers with the olive oil, garlic, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Sprinkle with thyme leaves and transfer to the oven. Roast for 20–25 minutes or until peppers begin to char.
1 Tbsp (15 mL) butter 1 shallot, chopped 2 Tbsp (30 mL) capers, roughly chopped ½ cup (125 mL) fresh parsley, chopped
In a small skillet over medium-low heat, toast the nuts and seeds with the extra virgin olive oil for about 2 minutes, stirring often. Remove from heat and set aside in a bowl. In the same skillet over medium heat, sauté the shallot and capers in the butter for 2 minutes. Add the parsley, season with salt and pepper, and continue cooking for another minute. Return the nuts and seeds to the pan, mix well. Remove from heat and set aside.
• F or seasoned sea salt, Saltwest Naturals in Sooke has a wide range of products.
Stuffing 1 Tbsp (15 mL) butter 1 large onion, chopped 1 lb (450 g) ground boar meat (or your choice of ground meat)
Handmade Ethical Local Traditional
6 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves only Preheat oven to 400°F (205°C).
Add butter to a large deep skillet over medium heat. Once the butter is melted and starting to bubble, add the onion and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the ground meat and mushrooms and cook for another 5 minutes. Add the kale, garlic, salt, and black pepper and cook for 1 more minute until the kale is tender. Remove from heat and mix together with the cooked wild rice. Keep warm.
1 Tbsp (15 mL) extra virgin olive oil
Goat cheese, broken into chunks Reserve the goat cheese in a separate bowl.
CURED AND SMOKED MEATS 2032 OAK BAY AVENUE, VICTORIA 250.590.PORK THEWHOLEBEAST.CA CURED@THEWHOLEBEAST.CA
• Organic wild rice can be found in grocery stores. Here we used the pure organic wild rice from Floating Leaf Fine Foods, a family-run business based in Winnipeg.
Makes 4 to 6 servings Wild rice ½ cup (125 mL) organic wild rice 1 tsp (5 mL) seasoned sea salt Beef bone broth (enough to replace water for cooking) or unsalted beef broth
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Note
Topping ½ cup (125 mL) raw pecans, chopped ¼ (60 mL) raw sunflower seeds ¼ (60 mL) raw pumpkin seeds
ROASTED & LOADED RED BELL PEPPERS
Sea salt and ground black pepper
Roasted red peppers 4 organic red peppers, halved lengthwise and cores removed 1 Tbsp (15 mL) extra virgin olive oil 3 cloves garlic, minced Sea salt and ground black pepper
Assembly Fill the bell peppers with a few large spoonfuls of the rice stuffing so it’s filled and mounded. Garnish with chunks of goat cheese, and sprinkle with the nuts and seeds mixture.
Cook rice according to package directions using bone broth instead of water to benefit from the beautiful collagen and adding some seasoned sea salt. Set aside covered to keep warm. (You can also cook the rice in advance and reheat when needed.)
Harry has shared a recipe from the Clive’s “I Can’t Taste the Alcohol” cocktail menu. This is significant— having a dedicated section in the menu. Everyone wants to enjoy their time out and providing a selection like this welcomes people who are not, or don’t, drink.
elcome to September. For many, it’s sober September (or maybe that’ll get pushed to October). For an ever-increasing number of people, every month is alcohol-free. Whether you partake, take breaks, or are a non-drinker for myriad reasons, you may have noticed more zero-alcohol beverage options in stores and many eateries and bars. Patrons are no longer relegated to pop or cran and soda in a pint glass with a straw (what I call the “loser glass”). Mocktails, alcohol-free cocktails, and n’alkies—an Aussie-inspired term that’s catchy, brief, and drops the derision of the term “mocktail—are coming into their own. Here, we connect with four killer Victoria bartenders who share their thoughts and approaches to cocktails without alcohol. They’ve also provided recipes so you can up your game to include people who are not drinking at your events, dinners, and hangouts.
26 SEP TEMBER/OCTOBER 2022
Harry Tham, Clive’s Classic Lounge
N
W
When creating non-alcoholic cocktails, Harry speaks of infusions and house-made bitters. One challenge of zero percent spirits is that not enough flavour carries over. If you know the botanical used in a spirit you like (if you partake), you can make syrups from juniper or bergamot, for example. Harry also recommends making ice cubes from a tea with flavours you enjoy and letting their flavour “pull out” in a tonic or soda. He highly recommends the book The Flavour Bible by Karen Paige and Andrew Dornenburg. It explores what flavours go with what and can be used for cooking or simple to satisfy one’s curiosity. “Manipulate flavours that are more spiritflavoured,” says Harry. His passion is infectious as he waxes about blending non-alcohol gins in pursuit of an exact note he seeks to hit.
Zero-alcohol’alkies—Cocktails
Harry’s been at Clive’s for a year and previously tended bar at the Courtenay Room. He credits observing the barista’s pride in presentation for inspiring him to pursue his craft. Now deep into competitions, Harry is well-respected and thrives in this space. How does he feel about making mocktails? “It’s just making a custom drink. I enjoy presenting and describing them to guests.”
Wilfred’s Spritz 2 oz Wilfred’s Bittersweet Orange and Rosemary Aperitif 3 oz soda water 3 oz non-alcoholic sparkling wine (Tham prefers Leitz Sparkling Rose) Build over ice in a copa (wineglass). Garnish with an orange wheel.
WORDS Gillie Easdon PHOTOGRAPHY Jacqueline Downey Every cocktail has a story.
Many establishments are now paying more attention to non-drinkers, which means everyone gets to join the party.
CaliNocho
Kona, Kwench
Providing options for your guests not only makes them feel like they belong, he says, “but it avoids being asked to make a non–alc version of booze-forward drinks on the fly.” Kona likes to work with Lyre, a non-alc spirit with a few flavours. He seeks complexity and balance in a mocktail. Playing with flavours, being curious, and paying attention are all key. “Some bartenders, like Harry, are becoming expert. I prefer being in the middle. I can still be goofy and have the creative freedom to intosomindsetMuchexperiment.”oftheindustryistip-focused,forsome,diggingnon-alccocktails,which tend to cost less, is not exciting. But for Kona, it is about making drinks, and he doesn’t want anyone to feel left out. See him at Kwench, bar open with a member, and open to the public soon.
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(Pictured are wild foragers and bartenders Chili Berisoff (L) and Ellie Chapple (R) at Bodega.)
CREATED BY ELLIE CHAPPLE 1 oz hibiscus tea syrup
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Chili Bodega
½ oz coconut almond orgeat 1 oz lemon Wet shake (shake with ice) and pour into a rocks glass with an ancho chili sugar rim, top with Phillips cola, and add two dashes of chocolate bitters. Garnish with an orange slice. Pinky and the Brain 2 oz pink grapefruit juice 3 oz Tazo passion fruit tea ¼ oz lemon juice ½ oz simple syrup 1 oz Lyre’s Aperitif Rosso Everything into the bucket and shake it up. No shaker? You probably have a Mason jar somewhere. I work hard on them. It’s a cocktail with no booze in it, and it is still to that party.beEveryonestandard.shouldpartofthe
Berisoff,
The first two observations Kona has about making n’alkies: “Do not sub in the non-alc spirit in an alc recipe,” and “they are harder to perfect.” He’s been tending bar for 15 years and focuses on crafting a “properly groomed, in-depth beverage.”
When Chili talks about crafting cocktails without alcohol, she first comments on how much harder it is. “People are so excited when you give it to them, share it with them, and connect,” she says, beaming. She’s been a bartender for a decade and with Bodega for six years. To start exploring mocktails, Chili suggests building it around a nonalc spirit, such as Sheringham’s Lumette. You can experiment with juices, jam, sodas, and herbs. “The yeast on elderflower gives a similar taste to sparkling wine,” she shares. “Hibiscus brings a nice pink, and lime leaf makes them pop.” She works with whatever is in season. Bodega makes their own tonic, which took five years to perfect. Chili notes that often half a table will not be drinking and that the whole point of bartending is making something that people are jazzed about, something that makes them feel special and seen. Bodega’s menu offers “The Driver’s Seat” as its non-alcohol cocktail choice. This gives the bartender free range to craft something based on the guest’s tastes. A lot of people are sober, and everyone should feel welcome, she says.
More Thoughts on Nothing
“It’s about access and advocating for those who can’t/don’t drink. It’s a kind of gatekeeping that says; you’re not welcome here. Inclusivity is important, and it’s good for your bottom line too! It says a lot about the quality of your program when you offer thoughtful, curated, no-proof options that align with your room’s vision and style.”
Exploring the zero percent.
MEGAN K. TRUFFLESSTACEYCATERING
CHRIS KLASSEN THE DRAKE EATERY “I like mocktails every so often if I’m not drinking. It doesn’t call to attention as much that I’m not drinking, or if I’m on antibiotics, I don’t have to explain my ailments to nosy family members (‘are you having a BAAAABYYYY?’).”
Focusing on making n’alkies “makes me a better bartender all round,” she states. Jane encourages playing around with sodas, ginger, and Sparkling Bee Line from Babe’s Honey Farm, a fermented, sparkling, raw honey beverage. Add a little bit, check ratios, and find a balance between “sweet and bitter and sour.”
There’s never been a better time to be non-drinker.a
28 SEP TEMBER/OCTOBER 2022
RACHAEL MACDONALD BIG WHEEL BURGER “I am decidedly NOT sober but enjoy having something non-alcoholic as an option when I’ve had enough to drink but still want to stay out and keep socializing, or want to limit my consumption by alternating booze and non-booze without resorting to pop or water.”
Singapore Sling ¼ oz grenadine ½ oz sour cherry syrup ½ oz vanilla syrup ½ oz orange juice ¾ oz lime 1.5 oz Lumette Bright Light alt gin 2 oz pineapple 2 dash andpineappleGarnishtallShake,alcohol)bittersAngostura(containsserveinaglassoverice.withfreshcherry.FERNCAFEANDBAKERY.CA 1 - 1115 NORTH PARK ST. VICTORIA, BC PLANT BASED COMFORT FOOD LOCALLY OWNED & OPERATED EST.2018
Jane Culprit, Tora Tiki If there are only two free seats at the bar, Jane, as a non-drinker in the industry, doesn’t feel right taking those seats. Because she is thinking about the tips. Jane uses the term non-drinker even though, as a bartender a decade in, she still tastes everything to ensure it’s perfect. Jane’s acutely aware of the stigma of not drinking. “There is a joy in sitting at a bar, a social space, and building community. Often you aren’t included [if you’re a non-drinker].” When there is no menu option, the stigma is reinforced, even when that’s not the Jane’sintention.advicefor n’alky newbs is to start simple. (It was she who introduced me to the term “n’alky”.) Try making a pilsner shandy—a non-alc beer + ginger ale or lemon-lime soda of choice. Jane loves Sheringham’s Lumette and its excellent use of botanicals.
LAURA NOURISHRITCHIEKITCHEN & CAFE “I have been dipping my toes into a lot of non-alcoholic beer over the last few years as craft beer has been sinking its teeth into it! And I work at The Drake ... So it’s been a side project worth a good investment!”
Gold Hill Syrah Okanagan Valley VQA 2018 British Columbia $43.00
Wines from B.C. and Australia with flavour profiles perfect for autumn sipping. Venturi-Schulze
It’s never too early for holiday bookings. The Palms dining room is perfect for large parties. book now! thepalmsrestaurant.ca(250)383-7310 now open 7
Brut Naturel 2014 Vancouver Island $28.00 No herbicides, no fungicides, no pesticides, no insecticides, no problem, just a lot of hard work! The Brut Naturel was inspired by a bottle of Crémant D’Alsace proffered by the proprietor of a tiny winery in Dorlisheim, at the northern extreme of the Alsace in 1989. Venturi-Schulze has spent the last 33 years pursuing that dream. The 2014 is 100 percent estategrown Pinot Auxerrois, made in the traditional method, with the second fermentation in the bottle. Light straw coloured, with a fine mousse and citrus, mineral, and brioche notes on the nose. The palate is very creamy with juicy citrus flavours, fine acidity, the intoxicating tickle of a multitude of tiny pinpoint bubbles, and a refreshingly dry finish. No dosage.
Peter Lehmann “The Barossan” Barossa Chardonnay 2021 Australia $20.00 This is not what I had expected from a Chardonnay sourced from a medley of vineyards scattered throughout Australia’s Barossa Valley. This is sacred Shiraz country, and I must admit I went in prepared for the fat, over-the-top, butterball genre that is Chardonnay. The Barossan, however, was everything a sensible, open-minded, wine aficionado could ask for in a bottle of white wine. Lovely straw yellow in the glass and bursting with heady aromas of ripe peach, almonds, spice, and toasty oak. Medium- to full-bodied with a lovely creamy texture and rich layers of orchard fruit, cantaloupe, citrus, and spice on the palate. Nicely balanced with soft acidity and toasty oak through the finish.
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The Gill family farms 24 acres of vines at its Gold Hill Estate Vineyard just outside of Oliver, with another 32 acres of vines further south in the valley, near Osoyoos. This wine is 100 percent Cabernet Franc sourced entirely from Gold Hill Estate Vineyard. Immediately following fermentation it was aged for 18 months in French oak barrels and further aged in bottle before release. Very aromatic and expressive with violets, raspberry, and an earthy herbaceous quality. Medium-bodied with a generous palate redolent with tangy fruit, capsicum, herb, and spice flavours, fine-grained tannin, and bright acidity. Nicely balanced with a long, dry finish.
Peter Lehmann “The Barossan” Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 Australia $24.00 Fires, floods, pandemics, trade disputes, financial uncertainty, supply logistics—these are just a few of the nagging issues facing the Australian wine industry in the 21st century. This, however, does not diminish the one positive to be found during these tough times, the indisputable quality of Australian wines, at all price points, available in the market today. The Barossan is a big Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, opaque with cassis, blackberry, floral, and smoky aromas. Full-bodied and lush with layers of ripe fruit and smoky vanilla flavours on the palate. Nicely balanced with a blush of soft tannins on the finish.
29 Liquid Assets LARRY ARNOLD
Blessed with a whopping 15 percent alcohol, Gold Hill Syrah is not recommended for the aesthete with a genteel palate. Big and bold is the catchphrase for this behemoth from Oliver. The nose is a potpourri of red fruit and meaty aromas with subtle nuances of anise, vanilla, and black pepper to further titillate the olfactory system. Full-bodied with gobs of savoury black fruit and spice flavours balanced with a seamless oak presence. The funny thing about this wine is that for all its power and intensity, Gold Hill Syrah has an underlying elegance and polish that is hard to explain but easy to appreciate.
Gold Hill Cabernet Franc Okanagan Valley VQA 2017 British Columbia $47.25
4pm to 11pm Sun – Thurs 4pm to 1:00am Fri and Sat
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anightsweek!
Red Rooster Sémillon Okanagan Valley VQA 2020 British Columbia $28.50 Sémillon is perhaps best known for the significant role it plays in the dry white Bordeaux of PessacLéognan and the Hunter Valley in Australia as well as the sweet unctuous blends of Sauternes and Barsac. Here in British Columbia, it is not so well known. Too bad, because in the right hands, Sémillon, dry or sweet, can be absolute magic with great aging potential. Red Rooster Sémillon was a very pleasant discovery. The grapes were sourced from Desert Wolf Vineyard just outside of Oliver in the southeastern Okanagan Valley. Whole-cluster pressed, cold fermented, and aged in a 3,500-litre stainless steel vat, the wine is crisp and clean with citrus, floral, green apple, and beeswax aromas. Medium-bodied with a slightly oily texture and a flavour profile that includes ripe apple, lemon, honey, and melon notes. Rich but very refreshing with a crunch of acidity and plenty of character.
ChocolateCustardCake
30 SEP TEMBER/OCTOBER 2022
Yield 12 servings 4 eggs, room temperature ¾ cup of white sugar + 2 Tbsp ½ cup of melted butter 1 tsp of vanilla extract ½ cup of plain flour, sifted ¼ cup of cocoa, sifted 2 cups of milk, lukewarm ¼ cup of icing sugar to decorate Preheat your oven to 350°F and line an eight-inch square cake pan with baking paper, making sure to leave paper hanging over the sides. This will help you remove it from the cake pan once it is baked. Separate your eggs, placing the egg yolks and ¾ cup of sugar together in the bowl of a stand mixer. Beat until they have combined and are light and frothy (if no stand mixer, use an electric mixer to beat in a large bowl). With the mixer still going on a low speed, gradually add the melted butter and vanilla extract before adding the sifted flour and cocoa, a few spoonfuls at a time. Gradually add the lukewarm milk and continue to beat on a low to medium speed until all the ingredients are well Placecombined.theeggwhites and 2 Tbsp of sugar into a clean, dry bowl and beat using a mixer until stiff peaks form. Gently fold the egg whites into the chocolate mixture until well incorporated. Pour the batter into your prepared cake tin, place in a preheated oven, and bake for 40 minutes or until a golden crust has formed on top of your cake. The cake will be slightly jiggly in the centre. Let cool completely before removing from the tin and cutting into squares. (Outside edges can be trimmed off for a perfect presentation.) Dust with icing sugar and serve. Store leftovers in the fridge. (Our recipe tasters definitely approve eating these cold too.)
T his not-too-sweet, not-toochocolatey “cake” separates into lovely layers as it cooks—a cake layer on top with layers of firm custard beneath. Easy to make, it is elegant when served with mixed fruit and whipped cream or can be eaten as is for a quick, sweet ending to a weekday meal.
DOWNEYJACQUELINE
Sweet Endings
CYNTHIA ANNETT-HYNES
31 Broadmead nichevictoria.caVillage|778-432-4243 Meet local. Eat local &TAKEBAKELETUSDOTHEWORKTODAY Westcoast V.I. Wild Seafood –FRESH––SMOKED–
