EAT Magazine March | April 2022 by EAT Magazine

R E S TAU R A N T S | R E C I PE S | W I N E S | F O O D | C U LT U R E

Cast Iron Hot Sauce 2.0 Cookbook Travels

Smart. Local. Delicious.

23 years at the forefront of local food and drink INDEPENDENT & ISLAND OWNED

MARCH | APRIL 2022 ISSUE 26-02

, s t h g i l e d l a c Lo ! s r u o v a l f l a b glo

MARCH/APRIL 2022

Welcome THE BLOSSOMS ARE ON the cherry trees, the crocuses are up, and the daffodils are almost in bloom in my yard and throughout the city. Spring is here, and we can all use the sense of renewal and new beginnings it signifies. The past couple of months have been difficult in many ways for many people; I am looking forward to the upcoming months and the changes they will bring. Cinda Chavich discusses cast iron and steel pans in Iron Age. As a cast iron lover, I recommend finding some if you don’t have any in your kitchen. Visit eatmagazine.ca for sealing instructions and a great resource for older cast iron pans. Gillie Easdon revisits our local crop of hot sauces—a staple in a good pantry. Our writers have visited German, Guatemalan, and Japanese restaurants, as well as a new bakery, to get the scoop for you. And our recipes go global, from Mexico to Laos to France (Please tag @eatmag on Instagram if you make our recipes as we’d love to share your posts with our fans!). EAT is looking forward to a great spring and summer. Stay tuned for stories on local whiskey distillers, beers you want to try during summer BBQs, and of course, great recipes for the warm weather and bountiful produce Vancouver Island produces. Until then, wishing you good food and drink, and family and friends to share them with. In the words of Oscar Wilde, “After a good dinner one can forgive anybody, even one’s own relations.”

Cynthia Annett -Hynes

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CITY EATS

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Italy within reach. 2401-B Millstream Rd. | www.900degrees.ca

Han dmade Eth i cal

REBECCA BAUGNIET

More vegan options are coming to our fair city! Frickin Delights Donuts is a vegan donut shop opening at 632 Yates St in March. They will also be offering classic craft coffee and tea creations, with dairy available upon request. frickindelights.com Odd Burger is a vegan fast-food chain that started in Ontario in 2014. Their mission is to disrupt the fast-food industry by offering delicious food made from scratch using plant-based, minimally processed, and sustainable ingredients that are good for people and the planet. Opening in 2022. oddburger.com Boomtown Beer Garden and Burritos is now open for dine in and take out at 950 Yates St. Serving burritos, bowls, beers and snacks, they have some unique options available, such as Fried Brussels Sprouts & Cauliflower, or Black Garlic Humboldt Squid. Their Street Corn Salad, made with charred corn, pickled onion & cabbage, boom sauce, cilantro, scallion, cheese and lime makes for a tasty side! boomtownyyj.ca

L o cal Tradi t i o n al

CURED AND SMOKED MEATS 2 0 3 2 O A K B AY A V E N U E , V I C T O R I A

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CITY EATS Upgrade Café has opened at 516 Fisgard St. Part of Upgrade Labs, which is the world’s first Human Upgrade™ Center and brainchild of Dave Asprey, founder of Bulletproof® Coffee and Father of Biohacking. On offer is a selection of upgraded coffees and espressobased drinks (upgrades include grass-fed collagen protein, grass-fed ghee, clean MCT oil, and prebiotic innerfuel). Breakfast is served all day. Open 7am–5pm Monday–Sunday. upgradelabs.com

Parry Bay Sheep Farm Metchosin, BC

Parry Bay Sheep Farm along with Stillmeadow Farm sells lamb, pork and roasting chicken to restaurants and butcher shops in Victoria and through our on-farm market in Metchosin. We truly appreciate those who “walk the talk” and support local producers. From picturesque pastures to backyard barbecues Parry Bay lambs make people smile. John & Lorraine Buchanan 250.478.9628 contact@parrybaysheepfarm.com www.parrybaysheepfarm.com

instagram: @parrybayfarm facebook.com/parrybaysheepfarm facebook.com/ParryBayFarmMarket

On the cover:

Pear and Onion Flatbread Styling + Photography:

Deb Garlick

Recipe on page 14

Visit eatmagazine.ca for more articles, recipes, news and events. 4

MARCH/APRIL 2022

MARCH / APRIL

FOUNDER

Gary Hynes PUBLISHER

Pacific Island Gourmet EDITOR

Cynthia Annett-Hynes

Colwood’s Jasmine Restaurant will be closing its doors permanently this March. The family restaurant run by Judy Wong first opened in Mayfair Mall before moving to its current location on Island Highway, where it has been for the past 23 years. We wish Judy Wong all the best in her next chapter!

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR/COPY EDITOR

Wild Mountain Food and Drink in Sooke has launched a new line of organic vinaigrettes featuring their own honey. Available in Fig Leaf and Honey, and Malted Apple and Honey, you can find these available in Victoria at Pepper’s Foods. peppers-foods.com

Rhonda Ganz

Junction, Orchard & Cidery is a fairly recent addition to the Victoria cider scene. Located at Prospect Lake, close to downtown Victoria, this 8-acre farm is a welcoming west coast rustic venue creating delicious ciders. They have just started to partner with some local suppliers to offer snacks in their tasting room. Enjoy a locally sourced picnic box to go with your tasting flight created by The Local Picnic. junctionvictoria.com The Bread & Butter Collective is a Vancouver Island based peer-driven collective aimed at providing resources and tools to hospitality-based business owners in BC for improved levels of performance, peer accountability, learning and growth, political advocacy along with guidelines for operating businesses and managing lifestyles that are meaningful and lasting. Earlier this year they launched a reusable container program. This environmental initiative will help reduce the amount of take out containers entering our landfills. breadandbuttercollective.com/

Carolyn Bateman SENIOR WINE WRITER

Larry Arnold LAYOUT AND DESIGN

Cynthia Annett-Hynes PRODUCTION AND DESIGN

REGIONAL REPORTERS

Victoria, Rebecca Baugniet CONTRIBUTORS

Isabelle Bulota Cinda Chavich Jennifer Danter Jacqueline Downey Gillie Easdon Deb Garlick Denise Marchessault Elizabeth Monk Elizabeth Nyland Adrian Paradis Adrien Sala Shelora Sheldan Johann Vincent Rebecca Wellman REGIONAL/NATIONAL ACCOUNT MANAGER

Susan Worrall ADVERTISING ACCOUNT MANAGER

Ron Metella CONTRIBUTING AGENCIES

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Victoria Beer Week is a nine-day festival showcasing BC craft breweries in unique event settings across Greater Victoria. With a focus on education and diverse craft beer selection, VBW 2022 will feature more than 50 BC craft breweries. Victoria Beer Week launched back in 2014, it has since become a successful annual festival creating craft beer ambassadors out of regular beer consumers. This year’s event was postponed to April 1 – 9 2022. victoriabeersociety.com/victoriabeerweek/

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Culinaire will be returning to the main building of the Victoria Conference Centre on May 4 this year. This event provides locals with the opportunity to savour signature menu items and inspired dishes from an abundant selection of restaurants, lounges, pubs, cafes, specialty purveyors, and sip from a fine selection of local and regional wine, cider, and craft beer. Partial proceeds provide scholarship awards to the Camosun College Culinary Arts Program and a donation is made each year to the BC Hospitality Foundation. culinairevictoria.com

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In the Nov|Dec 2021 issue, we referenced Orveas Bay Oceanfront Resort in Shirley. The property has changed hands and has a new name — Ocean Song Cottages. We apologize for any confusion. linktr.ee/oceansong

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Side Dish

TRAVELS WITH MY KITCHEN To nourish her soul, Shelora Sheldan has channelled her deep longing for travel into recreating her most memorable food experiences.

TR AVEL IS TR ANSFORMATIVE. ESPECIALLY when it comes to food. Viewed through a culinary lens, travel has expanded my understanding of people, places, and their culinary roots. Markets, restaurants, and grocery aisles are my haunts, and are always some of my first stops on any travel junket. There’s no quicker way to understand the soul of a place than to connect with what the locals eat and how they cook. Through that, travel has made me a more adventurous and confident cook.

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I believe this to be true for anyone with a gastronomic curiosity. Recently, I spoke with a chef who said her travels through Thailand gave her a deeper understanding of balancing flavours and food, and I’ve heard many head chefs urge their young apprentices to travel, taste, and learn. My souvenirs aren’t T-shirts and trinkets but sea salts and spices, coffee beans, and kitchen tools. The memories I take from a meal enjoyed from a street stall, a stumbled-upon restaurant, or a cooking technique observed and enjoyed are the snapshots I return to and reflect upon when at home and in my kitchen. Those memories have taken on deeper significance during Covid. I literally ache with hunger to travel, but to nourish my soul, memories have to suffice. To this end, I’ve taken to my kitchen with renewed vigour, recreating food memories with a soupçon of dreamy longing. One of my early travel food memories from a trip to the Amalfi coast still resonates. Befriending a family that lived next door to my accommodation, we sat around their fireplace one evening and roasted large pine cones over the fire. Roasting them until they opened up like flowers, we then devoured the pine nuts resting inside each cone petal. An unforgettable first. The Amalfi coast was where I also had pizza Margherita for the first time, and a rustic pasta dish known as aglio, olio, and e peperoncino. It’s a simple dish of spaghetti tossed with bits of garlic, crisped in olive oil with fiery flecks of chili. It has become a comforting staple over the decades, a delicious and sustaining memory. Another culinary souvenir came via Portugal, pork and clams (carne de porco à Alentejana), a surf-and-turf combination redolent of garlic, Vinho Verde, and also a bit of chili. The marinated pork is first braised to a tender luscious finish before clams and wine are added to steam until open. Served in deep bowls with slices of bread to sop up the flavourful goodness, it’s an impressive dish when you have guests over. Don’t forget to pass around the Vinho Verde. My first trip to Mexico more than 30 years ago ignited an enduring passion for its regional cuisines. No stranger to the combination plates served in Mexican restaurants in Canada in those days, I was shocked when I had my first tamale. And my first quesadilla—with its tortilla handmade from freshly ground corn masa—was revelatory. First, the tortilla was patted

out in front of me and laid gingerly on a hot comal griddle. Fresh squash blossoms were gently torn and placed on the tortilla along with a smear of nutty flavoured pork fat, pungent leaves of the epazote herb, and long shreds of queso Oaxaca string cheese. The tortilla was folded over and cooked on both sides before it was handed to me wrapped in a serviette with two bowls of fresh salsas for condiments. It was so simple, yet so flavourful. I feel a deep affinity for Mexican cuisine, in particular the regional cooking of Oaxaca. Over three decades, I’ve taken cooking classes in the region, read a great deal, tasted, cooked, written, travelled, worked in two Mexican regional restaurants in the U.S., and hosted a series of Mexican-themed dinners in my home. Cooking Mexican food has changed my palate forever. It has given me patience, definitely something needed when making complex, multi-ingredient moles. Every year, I grow epazote and squash blossoms as a tribute to my culinary epiphany, and I take great pleasure in making tamales from freshly rendered duck fat. I also never need to be coaxed into making pozole from scratch—or carnitas for taco nights.

✈

SHELORA SHELDAN

During the past year, with no travel in sight, I began frequenting thrift stores and buying cookbooks. I see this as a coping mechanism, an alternative to travel, and a way to deepen my relationship with food and the world at large. I read them like novels, each recipe a tantalizing chapter. I’ve always had a collection of cookbooks—my shelves are groaning with them—but now, every previously empty space has a stack of recent finds, including a tower teetering behind a living room chair. I’ve taken forays into Korean street food, Asian-inspired paleo cuisine, the country cooking of Italy, as well as a deep dive into dishes from noted American restaurants—Canal House and AOC in particular. Lately, a glut of French cookbooks has me eating up Paris and bistro fare.

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It’s Spanish tapas one night, duck confit and pissaladerie another, osso buco on a Friday, soufflé (taught to me by a local restaurateur) for dessert. A classic Dutch baby pancake—it makes a great brunch dish by the way— brings back memories of when visiting Seattle friends prepared it for us. Soup, my winter comforter, has also allowed me to travel the world. There’s the mulligatawny from southern India, a North African harira, the restorative, garlic-laden soups and brodos of Europe, a roasted tomato tortilla sopa of Mexico, and a rich, long-simmered French onion soup— they’re all on my itinerary.

SETTING A NEW BAR FOR 2022

Yes, there is stress cooking and stress eating, but my culinary life, with its varied exploration of global foods, has kept me connected to the world. So until my bags are packed for travel again, I bid you bon appétit!

✈

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Reporter Deer and Dough

W ORDS

Adrian Paradis Adrien Sala Elizabeth Monk

Eva Schnitzelhaus Ramen Arashi Sabor Mix Latino Deer and Dough owners Melinda Friedman and Chris Moran 8

MARCH/APRIL 2022

PHO T OGR A PH Y

Johann Vincent Jacqueline Downey Elizabeth Nyland JOHANN VINCENT

Deer and Dough

1 2 6 7 FA I R F I E L D R D . 250-590-5636 DEERANDDOUGH.CA

A new micro-bakery in the heart of Fairfield delights in classic, unfussy baking. A FEW YEARS AGO, Melinda Friedman might not have expected to be spending her days making beautifully layered cakes and flaky pies on Vancouver Island. Before opening Deer and Dough Bakery in the heart of Fairfield in early January, along with co-owner and neighbour Chris Moran, she had a long career in film editing and documentaries in Vancouver. “After 25 years I was ready for new adventures,” she says.

JOHANN VINCENT

So when the pandemic ended her career in film, Friedman moved to Victoria with her husband and followed up on another lifelong passion by starting a micro-bakery out of her house in James Bay. “My first job in high school was in a bakery café,” says Friedman. “I always just really liked baking, and I did it a lot at home and for friends and family.” Despite being self-taught, her “micro” bakery grew to be unsustainable operating out of her home. While looking around for retail space, Friedman discovered her neighbour, Moran, had years of experience in restaurants, including most recently at Be Love. The two teamed up and took over the former Cottage Bakery space on Fairfield Road, Friedman handling the sweet side of things and Moran handling the coffee, savoury baking, and lunch items. Today, they do an incredible amount with their small space. Their display cabinet is regularly spilling over with ever-changing flavours of layered cakes and pies sold by the slice, as well as cookies, scones, muffins, and savoury items like sausage rolls and salmon rolls, sandwiches, soups, and more. “The baking I like to do is also what I like to eat,” says Friedman. “It’s kind of traditional, kind of classic, and it’s not pretentious or fancy.” In addition to their daily inspirations, they have a few staples like the increasingly popular Deer and Dough cookie with dark chocolate, pecans, toffee, and finished on top with sea salt—an always crowd-pleasing favourite of sweet and salty. When Friedman first moved to James Bay from Vancouver, she says she spent a lot of time trying to perfect her pie dough. “Out the door of our old house I could see the occasional deer and thought, ‘this is what my life has become—deer and dough.’ ” Having already partnered with Mile Zero Coffee and Working Culture Bread, they may not have been open long, but they seem to have already integrated into the neighbourhood and city. ADRIAN PARADIS

EVA SCHNITZELHAUS

Finally, Germany is Back on the Menu

5 0 9 F I S G A R D S T. | 2 5 0 - 5 9 0 - 4 5 9 0 E VA S C H N I T Z E L . C O M

A new downtown restaurant celebrates the toothsome delights of a perfect schnitzel.

“They’re of German descent,” says chef and co-owner Max Durand. “They have a bit of extended family in town, and they wanted a place to congregate and

gather and eat schnitzel.” Building a restaurant takes some know-how though, so the family reached out to Durand, who has years of experience as a chef, including time at Olo and Agrius. Schnitzel wasn’t necessarily his forte, but his depth of skill and their trust in his abilities to run a restaurant led them to a partnership. Durand gathered a very small team—a total of four people, including himself and front of house manager Cole Vetor, also formerly of Agrius— and set out to open the newest German-focused restaurant. With two in the back and two in the front, the doors were opened in late fall 2021, and it has been busy pretty much ever since. Schnitzelhaus Food “I think people like it because they know exactly what they’re going to get at a schnitzel restaurant,” says Durand. “It’s not like other places where you have to learn the theme or style of cooking.”

JOHANN VINCENT

WHEN THE R ATHSKELLER RESTAUR ANT closed its doors after 50 years of business in 2017, it left a void for people in Victoria who love a good schnitzel and sauerkraut. Some filled that fried-pork abyss with the food night at the Edelweiss Club, a monthly event in which the German Canadian Cultural Society doles out traditional German home cooking. It’s a great time, but one night a month isn’t nearly enough for anyone with a passion for spaetzle. Case in point: the family that is the driving force behind Eva Schnitzelhaus, a new German-focused restaurant in the space that was formerly Rain Dogs Wine Bar. The family, who prefers to remain mostly anonymous, was feeling the lack of German options in town—and when Bistro Suisse in Sidney closed, they finally took charge of their cravings.

Eva Schnitzelhaus chef and co-owner Max Durand The menu is fairly straightforward, classic German cuisine. That said, Durand isn’t a fundamentalist and has plans to introduce some West Coast feel into things. On the snacks/appetizers list is everything from currywurst sausage ($8), smoked ham and turnips ($8), and a pretzel with mustard ($5), to assorted pickles ($6) and cheese and crackers ($9). For mains, there are two approaches. One is to select from a list of plates that include dishes like braised pork cheeks, sauerkraut, and rutabaga ($22); herring, beets, potato, and mustard ($14); and radicchio, walnut, apple, and blue cheese dressing ($14). The other approach is to dive into schnitzel.

JOHANN VINCENT

German schnitzel served with spaetzle and braised red cabbage 10

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The original intention was for the schnitzel to be shared by two people with a couple of sides. But after opening the doors, the team discovered that people really wanted one to themselves. They’ve left the menu as is for now, so you can totally share if you want. However, if you’re feeling hungry, there’s no shame in going all in on your own. Most of the schnitzels are pork-based, but there’s a vegetarian eggplant option for $24. The classic schweineschnitzel comes with slices of fresh lemon for $26, while the schnitzel with mustard cream sauce

comes with, well, mustard cream sauce ($28). There are five different schnitzels to choose from, and each comes with two sides from a choice of five—spaetzle, roesti, braised red cabbage, squash, and, of course, sauerkraut. (All of these can be ordered as sides for any other dishes too.) Dessert sees more classics like Bavarian cream with raspberries ($12) and apple cake with caramel sauce ($11). Schnitzelhaus Drinks Eva Schnitzelhaus has three German beers on tap: Warsteiner pilsener, Stiegl goldenbrau lager, and Erdinger dunkel weiss, as well as a list of bottles and cans of mostly German options. Classics like schnapps, killepitsch and Jägermeister, as well as cocktails that include a radler sour, the Jägerspritz (similar to an Aperol Spritz), and more are on offer. The intention is to source some local craft beers that reflect the German style and food. The team has gone with a blend of German and B.C. wines on the wine list, with almost every bottle available as a glass. Most of the whites lean toward the sweeter side—rieslings and gewürztraminers—while the reds align with cab francs, pinot noir, and a German foch. What You’ll Tell Your Friends One of the most obvious things about Eva Schnitzelhaus is that it’s not fussy in a way that can sometimes ruin a restaurant. Yes, the service is fantastic and the quality of the food incredible, but with a team of just four people running the place—all of whom have years of experience—it feels very sincere and inviting. That feeling is refreshingly simple and brings home the original idea of creating a space to gather and eat a schnitzel, maybe have a drink, and leave with a full belly and a sense of warmth. ADRIEN SALA

Ramen Arashi

2 2 2 – 2 9 5 0 D O U G L A S S T. 778-922-2950 RAMENARASHIVICTORIA.COM

The chewy noodles and satisfyingly rich broths of authentic Japanese ramen are a welcome port in a storm. “AR ASHI MEANS STORM IN Japanese, but the name here has more to do with the characters,” explains Ramen Arashi’s co-owner and manager Allan Nichols. Because the name is written by combining the two characters for mountain and wind, Nichols likes to joke that, “we are taking the city by storm.” Opening on the corner of Burnside and Douglas in early January, Ramen Arashi is the latest instalment in a collection of four sister restaurants started by Yuji Yokomori and Ken Seki. The first location was in Banff where 30 years ago Yokomori, Seki, and Nichols all worked together as Japanese-speaking tour guides. Since then, Yokomori and Seki have opened additional Ramen Arashi locations in Las Vegas, Canmore, and now this latest branch in Victoria run by Nichols. The restaurant is located outside the downtown core, but don’t let that lead you to conclusions about the quality of the ramen they’re making. This is authentic Japanese ramen with chewy noodles and deeply rich broths. Nichols developed his love of ramen during the 10 years he spent living in Japan with his wife. There they gained a particular affinity for the tonkotsu style made with pork bone broth. “Ramen was a staple, but particularly this tonkotsu style,” says Nichols. “We were regulars in our neighbourhood shop, but we lived in a relatively rural area so we would go to great lengths to try different ramen styles.” The menu is still expanding, but at time of writing the restaurant was offering seven different ramen variations: one clear shoyu broth option, three made with its signature creamy tonkotsu broth (including the Black Arashi Tan Tan Men featuring toasted black sesame and chili oil), as well as three veggie bowls. Ramen Arashi’s noodles are created especially for them by a Vancouver-based company that ships to the restaurant’s three Canadian locations. “It’s our recipe,” says Nichols, “so this way we can tweak it how we want according to weather and seasons.” The Japanese word arashi being a combination of wind and mountain to create storm seems appropriate for an enterprise that began in the Rocky Mountains and has slowly made its way west. But whether it takes the city by storm or not, Ramen Arashi is a welcome addition to the growing ramen community here in Victoria. ADRIAN PARADIS

JACQUELINE DOWNEY

Ramen Arashi’s vegetarian take on their tonkotsu style bowls 12

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Sabor Mix Latino

1 4 1 2 B D O U G L A S S T. 250-590-9824 FA C E B O O K : S A B O R M L AT I N O

The distinctive flavours of Guatemala come to downtown Victoria. A GUATEMALAN FAMILY HAS opened a Latin American restaurant right in the heart of downtown. Daughter Bebette and mother Sonia relocated from Calgary and have been operating Sabor Mix Latino on Douglas Street since last fall. If this is your first taste of Guatemalan food, start by trying the traditional snack of pupusas, which are fluffy, savoury, stuffed pancakes. The Pupusa de Loroco at $4.25 is a vegetarian option, its filling made of mozzarella and the tiny petals of the flower from the loroco vine. This is served with a cabbage salad on the side. You can eat the pancake flat, you can fold it over the salad, and you can dip it in salsa. It’s a convenient, hand-held food, and it is tasty. The restaurant’s generous entrées are a great way to get flavours even more specific to Guatemala. The Chicharrón con Yuca for $16.50, salted cubes of pork belly with a crisped golden fat layer, has tons of flavour. The dish comes with yuca, the Spanish word for the root vegetable cassava. You can have corn tortillas if you prefer, but yuca is a vegetable we don’t see much of in Victoria, so I was happy to try it. The yellowish-white tuber has a creamy texture and goes well with a squeeze of juice from the accompanying lime and the house hot sauce made with Coban chilies from Guatemala. A showstopper is the whole grilled tilapia for $15. The fish is scored and served steaming hot, with a side of rice, tomatoes, and three soft, freshly made corn tortillas. The fish was so delicious I was stunned to learn the only seasoning was salt. This is an example of technique rather than ingredients creating the flavour. There’s a taco menu as well, and specials on weekends, so you’ll find much more to explore at Sabor Mix Latino. ELIZABETH MONK

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Sabor Mix Latino's showstopper main, whole grilled tilapia 13

Masterclass

Pear Onion Flatbread

and

R ECIPE + T E X T

Denise Marchessault S T Y LING + PHO T OGR A PH Y

Deb Garlick

The key to great flatbread is a hot oven, a pizza stone, and some inventive toppings.

hen I want to whip up something deliciously informal, this vibrant pear and onion flatbread is my go-to appetizer. With a crisp crust and a chewy centre, it’s casual enough to eat out-of-hand at the kitchen counter, but special enough to serve with cutlery and linen.

It’s hard to go wrong with a topping of caramelized pears, tangy goat cheese, and red onions cooked meltingly soft. Drizzled with honey and a splash of red wine vinegar, the onions take on a sweet-tart finish so tasty you’ll want to eat them straight from the pan. Topped with peppery arugula and toasted nuts, this flavour combination is irresistible. Flatbread is a catch-all term that covers a vast spectrum of doughs ranging from unleavened crackers to naan and pizza. As the name suggests, it’s meant to be flat, so there’s no need to wait for the dough to achieve a perfect rise. Flatbreads are 14

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inherently rustic; they needn’t be perfectly rolled and shaped (a relief for perfectionist bakers). The dough has the characteristics of thin-crust pizza with a bit of whole wheat flour added for a subtle nutty note. It requires little kneading and can be made days in advance. The dough actually takes on even more depth and flavour after lingering in the fridge for a day or two, so it’s best to plan ahead. The toppings, too, can be prepared beforehand. In fact, the entire recipe can be assembled and refrigerated in advance. Always an attractive option when entertaining. The key to great flatbread is a hot oven (crank it up to 450°F) and a pizza stone. I enjoy baking, so I keep my stained and cracked pizza stone in the oven permanently. It not only turns out crisp flatbread, but it cooks up breads and pies beautifully. The stone conducts and holds the heat, which keeps bread crusts crunchy, pie crust bottoms firm (never soggy), and gives flatbread its distinctive, chewy-crisp texture.

It doesn’t need to be an expensive stone; just make sure you place it in the oven while the oven is cold. Had I taken my own good advice, my pizza stone would not be in two pieces (though it still works fine). The flatbread dough holds up well with all sorts of toppings, including a classic tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese. I sometimes omit the toppings altogether and bake the dough brushed with olive oil and a smattering of kosher salt for a flatbread that works beautifully with hummus and other dips, like baba ghanouj. Or I swap the pears and onions for thinly sliced (pre-cooked) potatoes and rosemary for a hearty, savoury profile. There are no rules when choosing toppings for this versatile bread, so feel free to create your own signature recipe.

Pear and Onion Flatbread

Toppings Heat 2 Tbsp oil in the large, non-stick skillet, add the onions, and toss with a wooden spoon or tongs to coat in oil. (This will seem like a lot of onions, but they will shrink as they cook.) Add ½ tsp kosher salt and cook over medium heat until the onions are soft and starting to brown around the edges, about 10 minutes. Stir occasionally to prevent burning. Add the honey and 1 Tbsp red wine vinegar and toss to combine. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.

Makes 3

Dough 1 tsp quick-rise instant yeast 1 cup lukewarm water 1½ cups all-purpose flour ½ cup whole wheat flour 1 tsp granulated sugar 1 tsp table salt

Topping 4 Tbsp vegetable or olive oil, divided, plus more to brush the dough 2 red onions, thinly sliced Kosher salt 1 Tbsp honey 2 Tbsp red wine vinegar, divided 2 firm but ripe pears, cored and sliced about ½ inch thick (no need to remove the skin) ½ cup goat cheese, about 5 oz, room temperature* ¾ tsp crushed red pepper flakes 1 cup grated Gruyère cheese, about 3 oz 3 cups arugula, about 3 oz *If the goat cheese is too firm to spread easily, place it in the microwave for a few seconds until soft.

Garnish ½ cup chopped toasted nuts—pecans, walnuts or pistachios (if using pistachios, no need to toast or chop)

Special Equipment Pizza stone (if you don’t have one, use a heavy baking tray)

Dough Combine the yeast and water in a small bowl and stir to combine. In a medium bowl, mix together the dry ingredients. Pour the liquid over the dry ingredients and mix with a fork or spatula. If the mixture appears too dry, add just enough water (by the teaspoon) for the dough to come together. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth, about 1–2 minutes. Transfer to a lightly oiled bowl, cover, and rest in a warm, draft-free area for about an hour.

Heat 1 Tbsp oil in the same pan and add the sliced pears in a single layer. Cook over medium to medium-high heat until the pears are just brown around the edges, about 8 minutes, turning occasionally to brown evenly and soften. Preheat a pizza stone or heavy-bottomed baking tray in a 450°F oven. The pizza stone must be placed in a cold oven, otherwise it can crack.

Putting It All Together Divide the dough into 3 equal portions (it will have risen and will deflate as you shape it). Roll each onto a sheet of parchment dusted with flour and shape into ovals, about 13 inches long by 5½ inches wide and ¼-inch (6 cm) thick. Distribute the ingredients evenly among the three flatbreads, leaving a one-inch border.

Layer as follows: Goat cheese (reserving a small portion for the top layer as well) Crushed red pepper flakes Gruyère cheese Cooked red onions Cooked sliced pears Brush the border of each flatbread with a bit of oil. Using a pizza peel or flat-edged baking tray, transfer one or two flatbreads and the parchment beneath them onto the preheated pizza stone or tray. Bake about 10 minutes or until the flatbreads are cooked through and crisp around the edges. In a small cup, mix together 1 Tbsp oil, 1 Tbsp red wine vinegar, and a pinch of salt. When ready to serve, toss the arugula with the oil/vinegar mixture. Top each flatbread with the dressed arugula, toasted nuts, reserved goat cheese, and a light pinch of kosher salt (or fleur de sel if you have it on hand). Serve immediately.

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Iron Age WOR DS

Cinda Chavich

Cooking with cast iron and hand-forged iron pans in the modern world.

hef Oliver Kienast swirls a bit of pork fat into a hot steel pan, sets a thick chop onto the sizzling surface, and slides it into the searing heat of his wood-fired oven at Wild Mountain restaurant in Sooke.

He pushes other pans around the stone oven deck, moving some to cooler sections inside the glowing brick cavern. It’s the careful choreography of the hands-on chef. “I can achieve temperatures that I can’t achieve otherwise, I get a deeper sear, and I have that flavour from the wood,” says Kienast as the meat develops a deep, caramelized crust. “It’s way more fun, the cooks are really engaged, and the results are fantastic.” Beyond the smoky fire and the carefully sourced local ingredients, Kienast says it’s the heavy-duty, carbon steel pans, created by local blacksmith Ryan Fogarty, that make all the difference. “Ryan’s pans are incredibly efficient,” he says. “I’ve never worked with a pan like that before.” Kienast is a Slow Food chef and lover of local artisan food purveyors, so it’s no surprise that he admires the beauty of the handmade skillets Fogarty creates at his Leechtown Forge near Sooke. Like most professional chefs, Kienast has long cooked with standard aluminum sauté pans, the everyday workhorse of the commercial kitchen. But the high heat of this outdoor oven requires more substantial cookware. Kienast also has a collection of cast iron pans—especially small ones for individual galettes—but says Fogarty’s carbon steel pans are unique. With ⅛ inch thick bases and high flared sides, the Leechtown pans are lighter than cast iron but offer similarly even heat conduction, perfect for searing a duck breast or crisping the skin on a salmon filet. The blue-black carbon steel glows like an oil slick, and the heavy, hand-forged iron handle takes these pans into the realm of functional art. Quick to heat and fast to cool, carbon steel is incredibly responsive, a material the chef says actually saves fuel and money, too. “They heat up very fast and are very even,” says Kienast. “I use them for everything now, whether I’m searing a steak or a bigger piece of meat. I couldn’t have done this without Ryan’s tools.”

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MARCH/APRIL 2022

Cast Vs Carbon Whether it’s a rejection of chemically coated non-stick cookware, the growth of induction stoves, or the joy of

collecting vintage iron, cast iron and carbon steel are having a moment, especially among serious chefs and home cooks. It’s a little more work to care for an iron skillet, but it’s a material that is virtually indestructible and, when properly seasoned, develops a natural non-stick surface. Plus, a cast iron or carbon steel pan lasts for life—no need to replace your non-stick skillet every other year—so it’s a sustainable choice. And, like a good chef ’s knife or other quality kitchen tool, there’s a degree of kitchen cred that comes with mastering and maintaining your iron pans. Peruse any kitchen store, outdoor shop, or online culinary site today and you’ll find an array of cast iron cookware, from classic skillets to baking pans and Dutch ovens. Alongside the affordable Lodge skillets (a long-time and large U.S. brand), there are premium cast iron skillets from new American makers like Field or Stargazer, handfinished pans that cost as much as Fogarty’s bespoke carbon steel pans. You may also see carbon steel sauté pans from de Buyer in France. Used by the French Bocuse d’Or team, it’s a longstanding brand with culinary cachet, a lighter gauge steel than some of the artisan-made pans, but a functional and economical choice. Carbon steel is more responsive than cast iron—quicker to heat—but both are excellent for searing and caramelization of foods. The de Buyer pan instructions refer to “the Maillard reaction”—the classic caramelization of the sugars in foods that seals in natural juices and comes with the addition of heat. From crispy crêpes to omelettes and steaks, it’s the chef ’s secret for fast cooking at high heat, then dropping the heat fast to prevent overcooking. Cast iron should be heated more slowly but retains the heat, which is important to create a nice crust on a steak or a pan of crispy cornbread. Cast iron and carbon steel cookware works on all cooktops, including induction. Both skillets are heavy, though even a professional gauge carbon steel pan is a little lighter than cast iron, so better for sautéing. Like cast iron, carbon steel pans get better with age. The seasoning layer of fat, which slowly builds up over successive uses, creates a natural, nonstick coating. Either pan moves gracefully from stovetop to oven, the ideal vessel for creating an upside-down apple tarte tatin, or any dish that requires finishing under the broiler. Anything that goes from searing on a stovetop to finishing in the oven is a good candidate for cast iron or carbon steel cooking—think steak, chops, small roasts, and roasted vegetables.

A cast iron pan gets hot quickly and evenly distributes high heat (beware, the handles get hot, too). Try it for a whole, flattened (spatchcock) chicken, weighed down under a second pan or a brick. Or cook a stew in your skillet and top with biscuits to bake in the oven. You can even cook a deep-dish pizza, with a crisp crust, in a cast iron pan. Both materials must be washed by hand, never put into a dishwasher, or left to soak in water. Simply scrub with a stiff brush or a handful of coarse salt, then coat cookware lightly with oil and reheat to smoke point to maintain the non-stick surface and prevent rusting. Never use high heat when a pan is empty or it may warp (or even crack in the case of cast iron). Old Gold While there’s plenty of new cast iron on the market, keen cooks and collectors look for vintage cast iron skillets, made in the many small foundries that once dotted the Canadian and American landscape. Older cast iron pans are significantly lighter than their modern counterparts and many were hand cast and polished, making them extremely smooth and easy to season. A cast iron skillet can last a century or more, and many vintage pans are still in use by savvy cooks. “Many collectors start with a skillet passed down from their grandmother,” says Amber Smith of Everything Old in Brentwood Bay, where there’s always a

selection of vintage cast iron cookware on display, with prices ranging from about $50 to $200 for a 10-inch skillet. Wagner, Lodge, and Griswold are all historical American companies, and their vintage cookware is valued by collectors for both quality and name recognition. However, rare and obscure old Canadian cast iron is equally collectible, says Smith, pointing to vintage James Smart pans from Brockville in Eastern Ontario, or Findlay Bros. pans from Carlton Place near Ottawa.

A cast iron pan gets hot quickly and evenly distributes high heat. “I love my old Erie cast iron skillet—the surface is so smooth, like butter—but I have other favourites, too,” she says. “The McClary pans I have, from the Ontario stove company, are like silk.” Smith says early foundries that made wood stoves often designed cookware to specifically fit the openings in their stovetops. So, an early skillet marked “No. 8” or “No. 10” often doesn’t relate to its actual diameter.

“It depends when the pan was made,” she says, noting some of the earliest cast iron cookware was unmarked. There are groups, clubs, and websites dedicated to collectible cast iron, and if you find a rusty old relic, they have lots of tips on how to restore and maintain any iron piece. Perusing the castironcanada.com site uncovers articles on historic Canadian brands, from Findlay Bros. and Amherst Foundry, to McClary and Wm. Buck Stove Co. Good information abounds on marks and dating vintage cast iron, as well as stories of the many foundries that began turning out cookware in the 1880s. Many rusty old pans can be revived and re-seasoned to cook another day, but not all can be salvaged. Cracked cast iron cannot be repaired, and a warped cast iron skillet (a “spinner” that won’t sit flat) may only be useful on a campfire. Still, Smith says almost any cast iron pan can be properly seasoned to create a natural, non-stick finish, offering a true “ovenproof ” pan for fast skillet dinners on busy days. “I cook almost everything in cast iron,” she says. “It’s beautiful both to cook in and aesthetically speaking.” Iron In The Fire At Roar restaurant in Tofino, chef Kaelhub Cudmore has a lot of cast iron cookware—the best material for the “live fire” cooking he does daily. PHOTO: ISTOCK.COM/ARINAHABICH

Whether it’s pan-fried eggs and hash, cast-iron griddled pork belly, or fire-roasted wild fish or chicken, heavy iron cookware is essential to withstand the high heat of Roar’s massive wood-fired Mibrasa grill. “I have cast iron planches that I put right over the fire to use like giant frying pans,” he says, “and I have 36 small cast iron frying pans to do individual servings of everything from the pies on the dessert menu to fried eggs in the morning.”

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Cudmore also has some There’s also a unique pieces in his cast iron arsenal. There are oval “cool factor” when iron “cages” to suspend whole chickens over the it comes to using flames and a conical iron tool called a flambadou, rugged cast iron. heated in the coals until red hot and used to deliver a blast of fiery fat over his Flambadou Grilled Beach Oysters. He has special cast iron fish baskets for cooking seaweed-wrapped fish in the embers, and cast iron skillets that go from the fire to his high-tech induction burners. “I’m definitely a dedicated cast iron guy,” says Cudmore. “In the restaurant I use cast iron, and it’s all I cook in at home, actually. I’ve got a pretty good collection of cast iron pieces, both family heirloom cast iron and pieces I’ve found.” Steeling Home There’s also a “cool factor” when it comes to using rugged cast iron and handforged carbon steel pans. With a growing appreciation of craftsmanship and quality, more people are investing in goods that are designed to last and taking pride in owning something functional that is made by hand. That’s where Fogarty and his Leechtown Blacksmith Co. is filling a niche, creating cookware for discerning customers.

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“There’s a whole movement for bespoke products and handmade, heirloom quality goods,” says Fogarty, a journeyman welder and teacher who left a commercial welding career to make his carbon steel pans, tools, and knives at a small forge near the historic goldmining town of Leechtown on the Sooke River, now a ghost town. “I’m creating a product with health in mind, waste in mind, sourcing local raw materials in mind,” he says, “and I’m making something that should last forever.” Fogarty’s first carbon steel pans were designed for local outfitters cooking over beach fires at high end island fishing resorts. And his latest line, the Flame Rider series, builds on that original design, using 11-gauge steel, heavier than most commercial carbon steel skillets. Fogarty starts with cold-rolled steel bases, spun in Vancouver to his specifications, and turns them into elegant carbon steel skillets, adding his hand-forged Damascus handles and blueing the steel to prevent rust. The skillets are seasoned and heated to 680 degrees, a layer of beeswax and sunflower oil creating a layer of non-stick “varnish” on the surface. Cooks can then begin the seasoning process at home—Fogarty recommends rubbing the pans lightly with oil, turning them upside down, and baking in a 350°F oven for 30 minutes, leaving the pans to cool in the oven and repeating the process several times. “My pans are designed for searing anything,” says Fogarty, “elegant enough for the kitchen, and rugged enough for the outdoors.”

308 Catherine Street, Victoria | spinnakers.com 18

MARCH/APRIL 2022

And as chefs Kienast and Cudmore know, when you need to cook hard and fast, there can never be too many iron pans in the fire.

Liquid Assets

LARRY ARNOLD

SPRING SIPPING

Larry Arnold’s latest picks—Europe, North Africa, and BC.

Cucina Italiana

Domaine Vendange Grande Reserve Crémant de Savoie Brut 2018 France $28.00 Located east of Lyon and south of Geneva, Savoie is nestled in the foothills of the Alps hugging the Swiss border. The region is perhaps better known for its agricultural specialty, “Choux de Savoie” (Savoy cabbage), than its vinous abnormality, Crémant de Savoie! With just over 10 hectares of organically farmed vineyards, Mont-Blanc looming in the background, this producer might be small but is definitely worth the effort to seek out. The crémant is a blend of Jacquère, Altesse, and Chardonnay vinified in stainless steel and aged on the lees for a year. Very fresh, with pear, apple, and citrus aromas, dry with refreshing acidity, crisp apple, pear, and mineral notes on the palate and a long, elegant finish. Cedar Creek Okanagan Valley VQA Organic Riesling 2019 BC $21.00 Weather conditions in the north Okanagan Valley were all but perfect for the 2019 growing season. Perfect, but for the month of September. Rainy days and cool temperatures could have wrought all sorts of problems, but, as they say, “All’s well that ends well.” And Cedar Creek’s Organic Riesling drinks very well indeed! Fermented in stainless steel, with three months on the lees, it has a surprisingly big nose with apricot, citrus, and petrol aromas. Nicely balanced with rich fruit flavours, mouth-watering acidity, and a pervasive whiff of petrol that lingers through the finish.

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Chateau Dereszla Tokaji Furmint 2019 Hungary $17.00 The Tokaj wine region in northeast Hungary is an area famous for its rich, sweet dessert wine, Tokaji Aszú. Touted as being able to bring the almost-dead back to life, it was reserved for the rich and powerful. While Dereszla Tokaji Furmint does not aspire to such lofty claims, its cheap price point and simple deliciousness will likely perk you up, nonetheless. Dry and very aromatic with subtle apple and pear aromas, some weight on the palate with refreshing acidity, and juicy pear, apricot, and mineral flavours. Kettle Valley Pinot Noir 2019 BC $28.00 This very fruit-forward pinot noir has ripe cherry, spice, and warm earth nuances on the nose. Soft and supple, its mix of dried cherries and plum flavours perfectly balances the lovely fruit flavours, soft silky texture, and a finish that just keeps going. A lovely BC pinot. Fontanafredda Barolo 2017 Italy $42.00 This is a traditional approach to a wine region that has seen much change over the last few decades. Nebbiolo vinified in stainless steel is then aged in Slavonian oak barrels for two years followed by another 12 months in the bottle before release. Brick red with dried rose petals, tar, spice, and cherries on the nose. Nicely balanced with gobs of fruit, fresh acidity, and a patina of soft grained tannins. Domaine Ouled Thaleb Syrocco Syrah 2018 Morocco $33.00 There is nothing refined about this thick, concentrated Syrah from the dusty slopes of Morocco’s Atlas Mountains. Rich and spicy, with complex aromas of brambles, black pepper, spice, and burnt rubber, the wine is a veritable powerhouse, full-bodied and brooding on the palate with gritty firm tannins and an attractive persistent finish that gives me hope that a couple of years in the basement could be a revelation. *Prices may vary and do not include tax and deposit. 19

JACQUELINE DOWNEY

Some Still Like It H t o The Contenders (L to R): Mesa Arbol-Morita Chili Salsa Macha, Niche Fermented Habanero Sauce, Andrea’s Carolina Reaper, Taco Stand al Pastor Habanero, House of Boateng Hot Sauce, Wild Mountain Cherry Bomb, Taco Stand al Pastor Green, Wind Cries Mary Birdman, Tofino Hot Sauce Hottest Tuff, Rock Bay Mean and Green Kiwi Hot Sauce, Stuart's Trinitastic, Haus Vendetta Lemon Habanero, Tofino Hot Sauce Hotter Tuff, MAiiZ Nixtamal Smoky Salsa Roja

EAT’s hot sauce tasting party 2.0 is a reminder of the vibrant community of talented food artisans we have here on Vancouver Island.

id-January, early Sunday afternoon in the Buckerfield’s Room at Swans. Jax, the photographer, is taking shots of a tray full of hot sauces. On the bar? A glass of milk, a lemon, Carr’s Table Water Crackers, and a few plates of plain wings. My 11-year-old helpers sit at a separate table and dig into a plate of Bob Hendle’s Corn Dogs.

This is Year Two, and Victoria’s hot sauce scene has evolved and expanded. On the panel, we have Andrea Duncan, former CinCin Ristorante + Bar, Blue Water, Foo, and Heron Rock cook, now co-head of food at gorgeous Niche in Broadmead; executive chef and manager Bob Hendle from Swans; former TV journalist, now communications expert Heron Hanuman; Stuart Brown, sommelier/sommelier instructor, past Swans Hotel and liquor store manager, now Vancouver Island sales representative for Arterra Wines Canada; and me, professional writer and hot sauce fan. Each sample is poured into numbered ramekins. Participants’ tasting sheets include sections to judge appearance, smell, heat, taste, and overall experience. A diagram establishes more detailed tasting notes on flavours such as citrus, vinegar, salty, and smoky, as well as the sauce’s linger. It is a blind tasting. Read on as I describe each sauce, then share our finalists. 20 MARCH/APRIL 2022

WOR D S

Gillie Easdon

1. Niche Fermented Habanero Sauce

4. Wild Mountain Cherry Bomb

This gem was a pretty orange, creamy, silky-smooth sauce. Beautifully balanced with citrus, fruit, and pepper, it had a very distinct, deep flavour profile with onion and garlic. There was no vinegar; all the acidity came from lactic acid formed during fermentation. The heat crept up and delivered fabulous lingering heat. It would be perfect on potatoes, tacos, wings, pizza, barbecued mango, and everything else. Available for sale at nichevictoria.ca

Cherry Bomb was like a fresh, bright Tabasco, light red and salty with nice acidity and a hint of smoke. The watery consistency was unexpected, but the flavour and versatility were impressive. Great acidity and a kick that would spark up soups, cocktails (hello spicy Caesar!), stews, and wood-fired pizzas. Purchase at wildmountaindinners.square.site/

2. Taco Stand al Pastor Habanero The sauce from this fantastic stall in the Victoria Public Market transported us to Tijuana, Guadalajara, and the Baja with its tasty cumin, pineapple, and sweet pepper flavours. The heat was subtle, but the finish lingered long. It had a creamy “spoonworthiness” perfect for fish burritos, pork tacos, or Taco Stand al Pastor’s specialty Gringo Fries, topped with beans, meat, green onions, sour cream, and warm queso. Available for sale at their stall in the market.

3. House of Boateng Hot Sauce Tropical, spicy, mellow, delicious. Chef Castro’s hot sauce approached a chutney in flavour. It was creamy and thick, yielding a moderate heat. The consistency was reminiscent of pumpkin pie filling, and the taste was exquisite. Developed to enhance his cuisine, the hot sauce is complex in flavour but married well with the cracker and the wing. It would be perfect on a fish taco, curries, and roasted vegetables. Buy this one at hobfinefoods.ca

5. Stuart’s Trinitastic This rough-blended hot sauce is Stuart Brown’s homage to his Trinidadian roots. It was complex, with citrus, smoke, and garlic and an excellent ginger bite. The flavour changed quickly on the tongue, from the lemon to the deeper notes. It was damn hot with a long linger. As Heron Hanuman, who also has Trinidadian roots, says, “Grannie would approve.” It would be perfect on roti with chicken or Trini doubles (curried chickpeas between fried flatbread). Befriend Stuart on LinkedIn, and maybe he’ll share.

6. Taco Stand al Pastor Green This was more like a salsa verde and imparted little heat. Green, zesty, citrusy, with a creamy texture, it was mild and tasty. Everyone immediately thought of eggs and luscious brunches. This one would be perfect as a go-to for breakfast guests when you don’t know their appetite for heat. It was straightforward and yummy. Available for sale at their stall at the Victoria Public Market. ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK.COM/URFINGUSS

7. Wind Cries Mary Birdman

13. Tofino Hot Sauce Hotter Tuff

This hot sauce bears the same name as the late-night Birdman fried chicken sandwich takeout business at Wind Cries Mary and it features in each of their more-ish sammies. It had a thin consistency and was herbal and a little minty with hits of tropical fruit and mossy green. There was a mild heat that finished quickly and a tangy flavour. It could work in a cocktail, a Buddha bowl, and on a fried chicken sandwich (of course). Available at Wind Cries Mary and MAiiZ Nixtamal.

Acidic, sweet, briny with a quick and crisp finish, this orange sauce offered a sweet, salty, vinegary flavour with medium heat. In this blind test, everyone found it reminded them of the ocean with a hint of turmeric. It would go nicely on fish and chips, an oyster burger, and popcorn shrimp. You can buy this at tofinohotsauce.ca/

8. Tofino Hot Sauce Hottest Tuff This entry from Tofino was a deep brown/red with a tomato-pepper flavour and medium heat. The texture was smooth, and there were hints of tamarind and something floral (I later discovered it was hibiscus). This is an earthy sauce that could work with Mexican, cocktails, and barbecue. Available at tofinohotsauce.ca/products

14. Mesa Arbol-Morita Chili Salsa Macha With a mix of peanut, sesame, garlic, and dried toasted chili, this salsa macha was a welcome and surprising change. It was oily, savoury, with satisfying gritty bits and a smoky moderate heat. This was a sauce you might associate with dumplings and noodles, but this style of salsa actually comes from the Mexican state of Veracruz and would enhance a mole chicken or enchiladas. Enjoy this in-house at Mesa Familiar, mesafamiliar.ca

9. Andrea’s Carolina Reaper

15. Salsa Gonzales Pineapple Habanero

According to Heron Hanuman, this should be called (yelling), “RANCH CRACKER IN THE HOUSE!” due to its immediate, intense, never-ending heat that had all of us dousing crackers with ranch sauce to calm the fire. This sauce was rich red, peppery, smoky, and zesty. It took awhile for our tongues to stop stinging. Not available for sale, but you can find Andrea at Niche and she may take bribes.

This creamy yellow/orange sauce had small chunks and seeds and smelled like pineapple and a hint of danger. Flavours included mustard and vinegar with tropical fruits and lemon sorbet. It was sweet and spicy, and the pineapple sang. It did not linger too long but was well-balanced and finished beautifully. This would be fantastic on tacos, eggs, burrito bowls, and pork satay. You can order online at salsa-gonzales.square.site

10. Rock Bay Mean and Green Kiwi Hot Sauce Herbal, peppery, and grassy, this Rock Bay Market fermented hot sauce had a lot of green notes, such as kiwi and cilantro, with a slight hint of fruit, a hit of heat, and a crisp finish. This would work well as part of a marinade or dressing. You can buy it at rockbaymarket.ca

11. MAiiZ Nixtamal Smoky Salsa Roja MAiiZ in Chinatown is a hotbed of good smells and tasty food. This was the smokiest of the hot sauces. The texture was thick and the colour deep red. It was medium on heat, but the flavour was comforting and lush. This would suit a lentil soup or a rich chicken stew perfectly. Available for sale at 540 Fisgard St.

12. Haus Vendetta Lemon Habanero This was the cilantro of the group; people either loved it or did not. With its thick, mayonnaise-like consistency and colour, this lemon habanero sauce was absolutely delicious to half of us, and the other half found it “weird” and a “no.” It had a nice texture and a long citrus finish. It would be tasty on a sausage or in a wrap. You can buy this at Swans Liquor Store.

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16. Salsa Gonzales Chili Lime Bright, tasty, clean, and a great entry-level sauce for someone who wants more heat but not full “RANCH CRACKER.” This versatile sauce had small chunks and seeds, and the lime was perfect with the vinegar and heat. It would be an amazing chicken marinade as is. It was slightly herbal, well-integrated with a balanced finish. Yum. Order this online at salsa-gonzales.square.site Taste buds spent, wings cravings quelled, water, beer and ranch ramekins depleted, we were ready to compare notes. First place went to Niche Fermented Habanero Sauce, with close seconds Salsa Gonzales Pineapple Habanero, Wild Mountain Cherry Bomb, and Taco Stand al Pastor Habanero. Haus Vendetta Lemon Habanero also got very high marks from half the judges. As for Felix and Milo, the 11-year-olds, Taco Stand al Pastor Green took first place. But don’t take our word for it. Go get your local heat on. Host your own tasting and let us know what you think.

Mexican Rice and and Elote Salad All the colour and culture of Mexican street food in one delicious bowl.

R ECIPE + S T Y LING + PHO T OGR A PH Y

Rebecca Wellman

MARCH/APRIL 2022

h, relaxing, uncomplicated, straightforward travel. Remember that? It’s been a while, I know. And it will be nice to get back to it, but while we can’t, we can definitely bring the outside world into our kitchens.

In February 2019, I was in central Mexico. San Miguel de Allende, to be exact, which included a side trip to Guanajuato. If you’ve ever seen those stunning photos of Mexican hillsides covered in gorgeous, brightly coloured houses, you were likely looking at Guanajuato. It is full of culture, street entertainment, history, and, of course, food vendors. A popular Mexican street food is elote—a grilled cob of corn with mayonnaise, cotija cheese, lime juice, chili powder, and cilantro. It’s messy to eat, but the combination of sweet, salty, creamy, spicy, and citrusy is absolutely worth it. I’ve made a version of it here, with more of a meal in mind. I’ve suggested prawns, but you can most definitely top the salad with grilled steak, chicken, tofu, or fish. And while you have the grill on, and if you have some corn cobs on hand, feel free to grill the corn and peppers instead of cooking them in a sauté pan. The rice will absorb the dressing quickly, so be sure to dress the salad right before serving. It can be served warm or at room temperature, but keep the dressing in the fridge until you’re ready to eat.

Mexican Rice and Elote Salad with Prawns

Serves 6–8

Rice 1 tsp butter ½ tsp ground cumin ¼ tsp ground chili powder ¼ tsp salt 1 cup long grain white rice, such as jasmine 1¾ cups chicken or vegetable broth

Salad About 2 Tbsp olive oil, divided 3 cups fresh or frozen corn 1 poblano chili, finely diced 1 jalapeño pepper, minced, seeds removed for less heat, if desired 2½ cups finely shredded green cabbage 1 clove garlic, minced ½ cup diced roasted red peppers ⅓ cup thinly sliced scallions ½ cup roughly chopped cilantro leaves 7 oz goat milk feta cheese, crumbled 1 lb large raw prawns, peeled 3–4 small avocados, peeled and halved (or diced, if preferred) Roasted pumpkin seeds and Tajin* for garnish

Dressing ½ cup mayonnaise 1½ tsp finely minced lime zest (about 2 limes) ½ cup lime juice (about 3 limes) Pinch smoked paprika (or chili powder) ½ tsp salt Good grind of black pepper Melt the butter in a medium pot over medium-high heat. Add cumin, chili powder, and salt and stir for about 30 seconds, until spices are well infused in the butter. Add the rice and stir to coat. Increase heat to high and add the broth. (If the rice package directions have a different ratio of rice to water, adjust your broth.) Once the liquid comes to a soft boil, give the rice one more stir, turn the heat to low, cover, and simmer until cooked, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat, and leave covered for 10 minutes, then fluff with a fork and set aside. Heat 2 tsp olive oil in a large sauté pan over high heat. Add the corn and cook until slightly charred (frozen will take longer than fresh), about 5–10 minutes. Transfer corn to a large bowl. Add another tsp or two of the olive oil to the pan and add the poblano and jalapeño. Stir-fry until softened and slightly charred, about 5 minutes. If you find the peppers are getting more charred and less softened, add a couple of tablespoons of water. This will cook the vegetables, then steam off, and the browning will continue. Add the cabbage and stir-fry for another 2–3 minutes. Again, you are looking for the cabbage to soften and brown. Add the garlic, and cook for another 30–60 seconds. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer the vegetables to the bowl with the corn. Toss in the cooked rice, the roasted red peppers, the scallions, the cilantro, and the feta. Season with salt and pepper. Wipe out the pan. Add another tsp or two of olive oil and cook the prawns over medium heat until just opaque, 2–3 minutes. Remove from pan and set aside. In a large measuring cup, whisk together the dressing ingredients. Toss well with the cabbage and corn mixture. Top the salad with the prawns and the avocados. Garnish with pumpkin seeds and Tajin. Serve immediately. * Tajin is a Mexican spice blend that combines citrus, chili, and sea salt. Try it on boiled potatoes, salads, or hard-boiled eggs. If you’re in Victoria, you can find it at Market on Yates, or at the Mexican House of Spice. It can also be found online. 23

Jenn’s Untraditional Larb This crave-worthy southeast Asian staple cooks up in one pan and is eaten without utensils. What could be easier?

R ECIPE + S T Y LING

Jennifer Danter PHO T OGR A PH Y

Jacqueline Downey

MARCH/APRIL 2022

arb is a fun-to-eat salad made from ground meat laced with fish sauce, lime juice, and punchy herbs that give the dish its signature salty and tangy flavour. It has deep roots in northern Thailand and is the national dish of its neighbour, Laos. While I’ve never tried the real deal, I love making my own version because it’s so crave-worthily bright, fresh, and easy to whip up. Whereas authentic larb is topped with a powder made from ground dry sticky rice, I swap in pulverized toasted hemp seeds and chopped almonds for a nutritional boost. And while a traditional larb is made with dry chili flakes, known as prik bon, in the spirit of adventure, I’m generous with the garlic and use fresh chilies.

Jenn’s Untraditional Larb Serves 6

¼ cup toasted almonds, chopped 3 Tbsp hemp hearts 2 Tbsp vegetable oil 2 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 lb ground pork ½ lb ground chicken or turkey ½ tsp kosher salt 1 cup torn mint leaves (tip: try with ½ cup each mint and cilantro) 1 stalk lemongrass (bottom), thinly sliced (tip: remove tough outer leaves before slicing) 1–2 Thai green chilies, thinly sliced 1 large shallot, thinly sliced 2 Tbsp freshly squeezed lime juice 1½ Tbsp fish sauce 1 head lettuce leaves, washed and spun dry

Toppings (optional) sliced scallions, chopped cucumber, limes, chopped cilantro, or Thai basil In a large non-stick or cast iron frypan, dry-toast almonds and hemp seeds over medium heat until fragrant, 3–5 minutes. Cool; pulse to dust in a spice grinder (I use a Nutribullet). Set aside. Wipe pan clean, then add oil and set over medium heat. When warm, add garlic, constantly stirring until slices just start to turn golden, 1 minute. Crumble in pork and chicken. Increase heat to mediumhigh. Add salt; stir often, breaking up chunks, 3–4 minutes. Add lemongrass; cook for 1 minute or until meat is no longer pink. Remove pan from heat. Stir in mint, chilies, shallot, lime juice, and fish sauce. Sprinkle with 2–3 Tbsp of the almond/hemp mixture. This will help soak up some of the pan juices. Now for the fun part! Serve with a stack of lettuce leaves to use as the wrap and a selection of toppings. Eat as hand food and top each lettuce wrap with a generous dusting of the remaining almond/ hemp mixture.

Sweet Endings This traditional French dessert is more fruit than cake, and low in gluten—a sweet, wholesome treat.

his easy-to-make French apple cake has just enough batter to hold all the apples together. The cake is moist, with a custard-like texture and a sweet, crisp top. We recommend you read the instructions carefully before you start and prepare your ingredients and quantities in the order listed. Despite its simplicity, there are several (non-scary) steps to follow diligently. Have fun and enjoy!

FRENCH APPLE AND ALMOND TEA CAKE Makes 1 (8-inch) cake 2 Granny Smith apples 1 Gala apple 1 large egg 1 cup (250 mL) plus 3 Tbsp (45 mL) granulated sugar, divided ½ cup (125 mL) unsalted butter, melted 1 Tbsp (15 mL) Calvados apple brandy 1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract ¾ cup (180 mL) unbleached all-purpose flour ¾ cup (180 mL) almond flour 2 tsp (10 mL) baking powder ½ tsp (2.5 mL) kosher salt ¼ cup (60 mL) whole milk 2 large egg yolks 1½ Tbsp (20 mL) sliced almonds With the rack in the middle position, preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Butter and line the bottom of an 8-inch (20-cm) springform pan with parchment paper. Place springform pan on a rimmed baking sheet to catch any drips. Core, cut in half, and thinly slice the apples. Pile the apple slices on a medium-sized microwavesafe plate or shallow bowl. Microwave on high until apples are softened, about 2 minutes. Let cool and pour off excess liquid, if needed. In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat the egg and 2 Tbsp of the sugar at medium speed until pale in colour, about 2 minutes. Stir in melted butter, Calvados, and vanilla. 26 MARCH/APRIL 2022

In a medium bowl, whisk together flours, baking powder, salt, and 1 cup of sugar. Gradually add flour mixture to egg mixture, alternating with the milk, beginning and ending with flour mixture, beating just until combined after each addition. In a large bowl, whisk together 1 cup of the batter and the egg yolks. Stir in apples until combined, reserving ¼ cup of the apples. Spread egg yolk batter into prepared pan. Top with remaining batter, smoothing with a spatula. Press reserved ¼ cup of apples into top of batter. Sprinkle the cake evenly with the remaining 1 Tbsp of granulated sugar and the almonds. Bake until a wooden toothpick inserted in the centre comes out clean, about 1 hour and 5 minutes. Let cool in pan for 15 minutes. Run a knife around edges of cake to loosen before removing from pan. Let cool completely on base of pan before serving.

The cake can be well-wrapped and refrigerated for a few days, or frozen for up to 2 weeks.

Butter Caramel Sauce (optional)

¾ cup (180 mL) butter ½ cup (125 mL) brown sugar ½ cup cream

Melt butter in saucepan over low heat. Using a wooden spatula, add brown sugar and stir. As soon as the mixture is coloured and smooth, add the cream. Leave to reduce for 10 minutes while stirring. Serve warm.

R ECIPE + S T Y LING + PHO T OGR A PH Y

Isabelle Bulota

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