EAT Magazine Issue 12-06 Nov | Dec 2008

Page 1

10th year

Local | Sustainable | Fresh | Seasonal

Find out more: EATmagazine.ca

The Next Great Chef victoria: restos, cafes & a new brewery

November | December 2008 | Issue 12-06 | FREE

A FOOD LOVER’S GUIDE TO THE COMOX VALLEY RESTAURANT DNA: Part 2 vancouver: the new Italians PLUS

Individual Cranberry Puddings with Ice Wine-spiked Whipped Cream

Pannetone Wines Local Kitchen Healthy Holiday Gifts Tacoma Canadian Cheeses The Best Poutine

LOCAL HOLIDAY SPREAD Celebrating Food & Drink in British Columbia

R E S TA U R A N T S | R E C I P E S | W I N E S | C U L I N A R Y T R AV E L

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Broadmead Village, Victoria 130-777 Royal Oak Drive 250-727-2110

CONCIERGE DNA 06 GOOD FOR FOOD MATT EAT TRAVEL EPICURE AT RESTAURAN SEASONAL QUEST 20 THE TECHNI FOODSHED: LOCAL KITC SLOW FOOD CORTES ISL REGIONAL B WINE AND B CHEFS TALK

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0themenu November | December 2008

Editor’s Note

CONTENTS

e’ve been busy behind the scenes revamping EAT’s online presence. The new EAT website has grown in scope and style. Personal recipes from local chefs, stories on local artisan ingredients, contests, book reviews, and the wine of the week will all be updated often so that every time you visit there's something fresh to read about (and what you read last week, and loved, will still be there.) Eatmagazine.ca will also feature exclusive culinary articles, news stories, and links to the most au courant in epicurean writing from BC, Canada and around the world. For the most up-to-date event information take a look at The Bulletin Board. Plus you can still browse The Marketplace for shopping and read the online version of the print EAT, page for page, on the website. RSS Feed capability has also been added. At the top of our homepage you’ll find the free sign-up link to Tapas, EAT’s twice-monthly newsletter. Receive V.I.P. alerts to timely food news—so you can know at a glance if there's a dinner or festival coming up that you want to attend. As a subscriber to Tapas you'll be updated on what's new on the EAT website. Check out www.eatmagazine.ca and check it often. We hope you'll like it. And as always, we'd love to hear from you; let us know what you think about this or any other topic by emailing editor@eatmagazine.ca Happy holidays to everyone and all the best for 2009. —Gary Hynes, Editor.

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CONCIERGE DESK 05 DNA 06 GOOD FOR YOU 08 FOOD MATTERS 09 EAT TRAVELS TO TACOMA 10 EPICURE AT LARGE: SEATTLE 11 RESTAURANT REPORTER 12 SEASONAL INGREDIENTS 19 QUEST 20 THE TECHNIQUE: Cooking Schools 23 FOODSHED: COMOX VALLEY 28 LOCAL KITCHEN: CHRISTMAAS DINNER 34 SLOW FOOD NATION 40 CORTES ISLAND OYSTERS 42 REGIONAL BUZZES 44 WINE AND BEER 50 CHEFS TALK! 54

IN THIS ISSUE

!

Cover Recipe: Cranberry Puddings photo by Michael Tourigny, 250.389.1856 Visit www.eatmagazine.ca for the recipe.

1715 Government Street 250.475.6260 www.lecole.ca eat@lecole.ca

Dinner 5:30 - 11 pm Tuesday to Saturday

2003 & 2006 International Winemaker of the Year International Wine and Spirit Competition www.peterlehmannwines.com

www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

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The PEOPLE, STORIES & WINES TH AT M A K E the BA ROSSA FA MOUS

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CELEBRATING THE FOOD & DRINK OF BC Editor in Chief Gary Hynes

book your suite tour today!

juliet’s ready, move in now! Luxury Suites Available for Viewing

Contributing Editor Carolyn Bateman, Vancouver Contributing Editor Julie Pegg Editorial Assistant Katie Zdybel

Local Reporters Victoria: Katie Zdybel Nanaimo: Su Grimmer Comox Valley: Hans Peter Meyer Tofino | Uclulet: Kira Rogers Vancouver: Julie Pegg Okanagan: Jennifer Schell-Pigott Contributors Larry Arnold, Michelle Bouffard, Jennifer Danter, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Andrei Fedorov, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, Lorraine Forster, Duncan Holmes, Mara Jernigan, Chris Johns, Tracey Kusiewicz, Tara Lee, Andrew Lewis, Ceara Lornie, Sherri Martin, Kathryn McAree, Michaela Morris, Andrew Morrison, Julie Pegg, Karen Platt, Treve Ring, Kira Rogers, John Schreiner, John Sherlock, Elizabeth Smyth, Chris Mason Stearns, Michael Tourigny, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman Art Direction Gary Hynes Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark. Advertising: Lorraine Browne (Vancouver Island), Paul Kamon (Vancouver), Kira Rogers (Tofino), Gary Hynes (agencies, regional and national). 250.384.9042, advertise@eatmagazine.ca All departments Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4, tel. 250-384-9042, fax. 250-384-6915 www.eatmagazine.ca eatjobs.ca epicureandtravel.com

SUBSCRIPTION RATES: $35 for one year (plus GST) in Canada. To subscribe, contact EAT Magazine at the number or address above or email subscribe@eatmagazine.ca Since 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. All opinions expressed in the articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. Pacific Island Gourmet reserves the right to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved.

Call to arrange your private appointment

250.382.6005 www.julietliving.com 760 Johnson Street, Downtown Victoria

Another Quality Project By:

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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

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Nov 6 OROF CAFÉ BRIO Café Brio thin you haven’t h gold medal w ilkameen Valle pus, lamb, an could prepar 250.383.0009 Nov 7 TEQ LIQUOR STOR Premium Tequ store is back $45 (and exp Also experien their Port and (exact date 250.391.4458 Nov 1-15 MUSHROOM Experience the and pine -mu Durbach of P menu during game like qua an outstand Cromesquis o ham hock with St., Vancouve Nov 6-10 CELEBRATION Swirl, sniff, sip Whistler’s Cor sustainability stead Wines, g Chef’s Trip to favourite ingre Food Artisan nucopia.com f Nov 8 DINNER French Wild M www.magnort Nov 12 TAPA READY for the Chef Romy Pra will be teachin Tartar, Mango holiday fare at - 9pm, $55 pe people; call 60 Nov 14-15 SLO View food film santo,” “Hija Food Vancouv Fest at the Uni miss the prem land on the www.filmfest. tails and to or Nov 15-16 FIN CHALET ESTAT View local art Winery’s best North Saanich call 250.656.2

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Culinary intelligence for the 2 months ahead

THE CONCIERGE DESK

by Katie Zdybel

For more events visit THE BULLETIN BOARD at www.eatmagazine.ca Nov 6 OROFINO WINEMAKERS DINNER at CAFÉ BRIO Café Brio thinks Orofino is the best BC Winery you haven’t heard of yet. A handful of their gold medal winning vintages from the Similkameen Valley will be paired with local octopus, lamb, and BC spot prawns as only Brio could prepare them. $98 per person, call 250.383.0009 for reservations. Nov 7 TEQUILA TASTING AT SIX MILE LIQUOR STORE Premium Tequila Tasting at the Six Mile Liquor store is back by popular demand. Tickets are $45 (and expect to sell out). 6:30 - 8:30pm. Also experience a pair made in heaven with their Port and Chocolate Tasting in November (exact date to be announced), $35. Call 250.391.4458 for more information. Nov 1-15 ANNUAL GAME & WILD MUSHROOM FESTIVAL at PARKSIDE Experience the chanterelle, bluefoot, trumpet, and pine -mushrooms native to BC that Chef Durbach of Parkside will be featuring in his menu during the season. Paired with wild game like quail, rabbit, and bison, they make an outstanding menu. For example, Cromesquis of rabbit, mushrooms & smoked ham hock with sweet garlic puree. 1906 Haro St., Vancouver or call 604.683.6912. Nov 6-10 CORNUCOPIA: WHISTLER’S CELEBRATION of WINE & FOOD Swirl, sniff, sip, and spit a variety of vintages at Whistler’s Cornucopia. Eat lunch and discuss sustainability with Anthony Nicalo of Farmstead Wines, get to the roots of your food on a Chef’s Trip to the Farm, and pick out your favourite ingredients to take home at the Slow Food Artisan Market. Visit www.whistlercornucopia.com for full schedule and tickets. Nov 8 DINNER AT DEERHOLME FARM French Wild Mushroom Feast. www.magnorth.bc.ca Nov 12 TAPAS COOKING CLASS: GETTING READY for the HOLIDAYS Chef Romy Prasad of Savory Coast Restaurant will be teaching students how to whip up Tuna Tartar, Mango relish, and more for impressive holiday fare at Wellbrook Winery in Delta. 6pm - 9pm, $55 per person. Classes limited to 16 people; call 604.946.1868 to register. Nov 14-15 SLOW FOOD FILM FEST View food films “The World According to Monsanto,” “Hijacked Future,” and more Slow Food Vancouver Island and Gulf Island’s Film Fest at the University of Victoria campus. Don’t miss the premiere of local documentary, “Island on the Edge.” Tickets $5 - $75, visit www.filmfest.slowisland.ca for complete details and to order tickets. Nov 15-16 FINE WINE, FINE ART SHOW at CHALET ESTATE WINERY View local artists’ work, sample Chalet Estate Winery’s best. The Chalet Estate Winery is in North Saanich. www.chaletestatewinery.ca or call 250.656.2552 for more information.

Nov 20-23 ONE OF A KIND FLAVOURS at the ONE OF A KIND ART SHOW The popular handmade-only art show comes to the West Coast. One section devoted entirely to homemade edibles: artisan breads, cheeses, preserves, chocolates. BC Place Stadium in Vancouver, $10 at the door for adults or $8 in advance. www.oneofakindvancouver.com Nov 21-23 CULINARY WEEKEND WITH MARA JERNIGAN & BILL JONES 2 nights accomodations with breakfasts, cooking demos and dinners. 250.746,4637, www.fairburnfarm.bc.ca Nov 25 GET FAT COOKING CLASS WITH JENNIFER McLAGEN McLagen’s new book, Fat, celebrates the greasy, buttery richness of cooking with fat. Glean what she learned while writing about one of modern North America’s most taboo ingredients and enjoy a hefty meal with the author. At Barbara Jo’s Books for Cooks in Vancouver, $95 per person. Call 604.688.6755 to register. Nov 27 FARMLAND CONFERENCE: OUR FOODLANDS, OUR FUTURE This conference in Sidney will take a hard look at sky rocketing land costs and putting the farm back in ‘farmland.’ Also a discussion of models for land leasing and sharing, and how to meet the demand for local food. For more info contact Linda Geggie at 250.727.9605 Nov 27: HOLIDAY CHEER LOUNGE NIGHT at SILK ROADS Sip on a tea cocktail and pamper yourself with free mini spa treatments at Silk Roads in Victoria. They’ll also be sampling their holiday teas and giving out door prizes. 7pm-9pm, free. Nov 29 FOOD ROOTS SUSTAINABLE FEAST The last Sustainable Feast before the New Year features Alderlea Vineyard wines and features a guest speaker from the vineyards. Tickets $35 and available at various locations downtown Victoria including Café Mela and the Parsonage Café. Visit www.foodroots.ca for more details. Dec 3 BC WINE APPRECIATION SOCIETY’S CHRISTMAS BASH The W.A.S. was created for the enhancement of knowledge and interest in the Wines of British Columbia. Dance til your feet hurt at their annual Christmas bash while drinking provincial wines. www.bcwas.com for more info. Dec 30 GOURMET CRUISE THROUGH the GULF ISLANDS At this time of year the waters around the Gulf Islands are at their most serene. Cruise on a 115 foot yacht through peaceful waters. Long hikes on deserted beaches, champagne toasts, gourmet hot cocoa, and impeccably fresh seafood. Call 604.812.9660

CONTEST WINNER AND The Winner of The Tasting Room's Weekend Getaway in Okanagan Wine Country and to co-host Tasting Room Radio with Terry David Mulligan is Michelle Elliot of Vancouver.

www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

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BLUEBERRY- CRANBERRY RELISH

Start the party brilliantly. Serve this zesty-sweet relish with Brie on croûtes. 1 cup canned whole berry cranberry sauce 1 cup frozen blueberries, unthawed 1/2 cup chopped walnuts 1/2 teaspoon lemon or lime juice

In a medium-sized microwavesafe dish, stir cranberry sauce. Microwave on high power until melted, 60 to 80 seconds. Fold in blueberries and nuts; stir in lemon juice. Serve warm or cover and refrigerate for up to one week.YIELD: about 2 cups

www.bcblueberry.com

… Field to Freezer in a Flash.

Victoria’s Culinary DNA One writer embarks on an appreciative journey to uncover the labyrinthine matrix of people, places and cuisines that make up this small, food-obsessed city.

Part Two of a series by Gillie Easdon

Marvellous mall: Zambri’s ast track to 1999, where another unlikely location proved ideal for the proliferation of fine cuisine. Far from the coastal, white-linened quietude of Sooke Harbour House, siblings Peter and Jo Zambri were establishing Zambri’s in the far corner of a chaotic and crowded parking lot on Victoria’s Yates Street in 1999. For many, the location was a mistake. However, thanks to the duo’s tenacity, Jo’s history in applied geography and their upbringing in Toronto amid its myriad plazas and hole-in-the-wall restaurants, the doubters were proved dead wrong. Peter Zambri was lured to the coast and the Wedgewood Hotel by past Sooke Harbour House chef Gordon Cowen (1988-1990). Peter had planned to open the Chateau Whistler under Bernard Casavant, but Sinclair Philip passed on Peter’s resumé to Cowen, who then proceeded to entice him to Vancouver instead of Whistler. After the Wedgewood, Peter was at Sooke Harbour House between 1991 and ’93 and then set off to live, learn and love in Italy, Southeast Asia and India. Returning to Victoria, he worked as the Sooke Harbour House gardener for the 1999 season. Prior to Zambri’s, Jo had been with Canadian Springs Water Company, “managing deliveries, trucks, customers and routes … quite similar to restaurants.” Zambri’s is modelled after the enoteca, what Jo calls “a casual restaurant with wine cellar, a wine-bar type of establishment.” The restaurant was both their ideas. They opened on October 18, 1999 and were slammed. “We have to do that again?” Jo exclaimed. Yep. And again and again. Over the years, Jo and Peter have shared their bustling mecca with Derek Dammann (of John Hall’s Cassis), who went on to work with Jamie Oliver and recently opened DNA Restaurant in Montreal, and Jonathan Chovancek (another Sooke Harbour House and Aerie alumni) who is now with Catering Capers in Vancouver. Other past Zambri’s notables include Perry North, who went on to West and recently left Opus, and sommelier Frances Sidhe, who is now working with Wren restaurant in Oak Bay. Jo Zambri recounts the rags to riches tale of one Anthony Shannon, who “came in with a secondhand jacket and a tie. He ordered lasagna and when I brought him the bill, he said that Peter had told him he could do the dishes for it.” Anthony Shannon continued to work at the restaurant over the years, learning to cook and butcher, then moved to Vancouver with his partner Kerry Brown (past Zambri’s server) and worked as chef with Perry North at Opus until recently. Unlike most Victoria restaurants, Zambri’s does not take reservations (save for a short time when they took reservations for four-course Saturday night dinners). “It’s a democratic thing. A restaurant is a casual eatery. It’s good for business sometimes … it’s not good for business sometimes,” says Jo. In their nine years, two exceptions have been made: one for James Barber when he was unwell and one for an elderly regular who would not be able to stand. “My parents wait in line,” Jo contends. When asked about the mechanics of the restaurant, Jo beams about how well all the staff get along, “save occasionally Peter and I. We’re Italians. Our personalities are there.”

F

In the French Manner ictoria has enjoyed a long history of fluency in French. Indeed, chefs from La Belle Pays have been the key, foundation and seed of fine dining in Victoria. Daniel Rigollet was gifted to Victoria by way of France, Germany, Ireland, Switzerland, the Netherlands and Montreal. A CP veteran, Rigollet arrived in 1970 to work at the Empress, “The Old Lady,” as he fondly calls it. From there he went on to the Oak Bay Manor (1972) and then opened The Parrot House at the Chateau Victoria (1975), now Vista 18. “It was exciting. You knew the opportunity was there, room to improve,” says Rigollet about the culinary landscape during the 1970s and ’80s. Finally, it was time for him to open Chez Daniel’s (now Paprika). But where to set up shop? As it turns out, the ideal location was “literally right under my nose,” mere blocks from his home. Rigollet wanted a neighbourhood restaurant that would be frequented predominantly by locals with whom he could build relationships. Moreover, he was keen to keep away from downtown’s din. “There was great support from the community,” he divulges. The food he offered was “pure French, simple.” Rigollet admits however that he was “his own worst enemy. I had to be in the kitchen all the time.” His philosophy of culinary success? “Honesty, integrity and humility.” (Rigollet went on to become Bailli Honoraire Chaine

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>;J>;HĂ…OEKÂŤH;Ă…;DJ;HJ7?D?D=Â…Ă…9;B;8H7J?D=Â…Ă…EHĂ…I?CFBO ;D@EO?D=Ă…7DĂ…;L;HO:7OĂ…C;7BÂ…Ă…OEKĂ…97DĂ…8; 7IIKH;:Ă…J>7JĂ…;L;HOĂ…?D=H;:?;DJĂ…<HEC >H?<JOĂ… EE:IĂ…?IĂ…I?CFBO J>;Ă…8;IJ >7JÂŤIĂ…J>; des Rotisseurs and is currently a chef instructor at Malaspina University College (now VIU.) The 1990s saw Italian cuisine rise in popularity all over North America. Concerned about the impact this might have on business, local French restaurateurs Daniel Rigollet, Sinclair Philip and Deep Cove Chalet’s Pierre Koffel would confer. Ultimately, they agreed that they must “stick to their guns,â€? says Rigollet. “Professionalism is to hold onto your colour, hold onto your vision, make sure you know exactly what you want to do ‌ don’t sway.â€? The French restaurateurs supported each other. For years they met once a week to play cards— Daniel Rigollet, Jean-Pierre Mercier from Chez Pierre, Michel Ford from the French Connection and Pierre Koffel from Deep Cove among them. The game? The rumour was they were playing poker, but the game they actually played was Tarot, a French card game similar to bridge. The one paramount rule? “Not a word of English ‌ we were trying to keep sane,â€? says Rigollet with a smile.

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Next in the series: An Industry Matures and Victoria Comes of Age: Herald Street Caffe

EATonline www.eatmagazine.ca

On EATjobs

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• Industry News & Events • Employment • Free winter listings

www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

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Seasonal gifts for the health-conscious foodie.

have several avowed “foodiesâ€? on my Christmas list this year. Usually this is a category of recipient that is astonishingly easy to shop for. Last year I simply whipped up a batch of lavender shortbread, purchased some heavenly Florentines and proceeded with the wrapping. Unfortunately, gift giving looks a bit more daunting for Christmas 2008. It turns out a few “health-conscious foodiesâ€? have crept onto my list. You know the type— makes goji berry granola, always buys organic, doesn’t DO wheat or dairy. In fact, I suspect you’ve got several people like this on your list too. Don’t worry, there’s no need for consternation. After careful probing I’ve compiled a list of savvy gifts certain to delight even the most health conscious of gourmands. WILD SWEETS from DCDUBY Now that chocolate has officially achieved health-food status, you can give it with impunity to even your most health-obsessed friends. And there simply aren’t more exquisite chocolate treats to give than those being created by the husbandand-wife team of Dominique and Cindy Duby. The couple, who have been hailed by famed Chicago chef Charlie Trotter as “giants in the pastry world,â€? have taken the art of chocolate creation to a whole new level. Based in Richmond, B.C., the Dubys combine cutting edge, molecular gastronomy techniques with novel pairings to create whimsical and exotic offerings that are multi-sensory experiences (the apricot/chanterelle chocolate and the “textureâ€? bar I sampled certainly engaged several of my senses!) The chocolates are divided into categories—classic, spirit, limited edition, roasted/spiced and fruity/floral. In addition there are truffles, ArĂ´me and texture bars, chocowine and caramel confits plus a line of innovative aroma oils, gels and salts designed for use by the creative “at homeâ€? chef. NBC’s Today Show dubbed the Dubys’ creations “really cool, unique chocolates you will never forget.â€? I couldn’t agree more. For more information or to order products, visit www.dcduby.com. GOURMET NUTRITION—The Cookbook for the Fit Food Lover by Dr. John Berardi, Michael Williams and Kristina Andrew This gorgeous cookbook is as pleasing to the eye as it is to the palate. With more than 120 beautifully photographed, nutritious creations, this book has wide appeal. It is perfect for nutritionally oriented foodies and those who need a nudge in that direction. Co-authors Dr. John Berardi, Michael Williams and Kristina Andrew all have impeccable credentials. Berardi is chief science officer of Precision Nutrition Inc. and adjunct assistant professor of Exercise Science at the University of Texas. Local chef Michael Williams, a graduate of Camosun College, has done stints at the Aerie Resort, Switzerland’s Hotel Schweizerhof and at Daniel Boloud’s famed New York eatery Daniel. Kristina Andrew, Williams’s partner, is a professional cooking instructor, personal trainer and coach. The team has produced an informative gem of a book. Full nutritional data is given for each recipe along with ideas for improvisation, guidelines for “post-workoutâ€? meals and mealplan templates. I tried the caramelized beet and fennel soup with cheddar and was suitably impressed. If you have a similar experience with the book, take note—chef Michael provides private cooking lessons, personal meal planning and also stages private dinner parties. The book is available at Plenty on Fort Street. For more information on chef Michael Williams, visit www.chefmichaelwilliams.com. TIGH NA MARA GIFT CERTIFICATE For finicky health-conscious foodies, there can be no better spa than the Tigh Na Mara Resort. The Cedar Dining Room features inspired West Coast cuisine that relies heavily on local ingredients—particularly seafood. (The Tower of Local Crab with Heirloom Tomatoes is but one example.) But perhaps the most hedonistic treat at the resort is the Tree Tops Tapas and Grill, where spa guests dine in robes and sandals while indulging in endless spa-inspired, antioxidant-rich tapas. Spicy avocado wontons with seasonal greens, black sambuca cream and cherry essence or roasted shallots and portobello mushrooms with pan-seared spinach and buttermilk dressing are just two tapas examples sure to delight even the most discerning foodie. For information and reservations, call 1-800-663-7373. THE EXCALIBUR DEHYDRATOR Endorsed by celebrity raw foodists like Gabriel Cousins and Carol Alt, the Excalibur is the dehydrator of choice at leading health clinics, retreats and spas. This machine allows you to produce an array of enzyme- and vitamin-rich goodies that have not been “damagedâ€? by heat. It comes with a choice of four, five or nine drying trays and has a 26- hour timer for convenience. And if you think the only thing you can whip up with a dehydrator is fruit leather, think again. The Excalibur allows you to create sumptuous scones, crackers, breads, desserts, candied fruits—the list is as endless as your imagination. If “rawâ€? is your loved one’s new mantra, this is the perfect gift. Available at Triangle Healing Products—250-370-1818. HONORABLE MENTIONS Organic Spelt Cookies from Cowichan Bay’s True Grain Mill Bakery. Available at Plenty on Fort Street. Artisan Salts from Redmond, Washington’s Artisan Salt Company. (The Indian Black Salt adds a wonderful “eggyâ€? flavour to vegan dishes.) www.artisansalt.com

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FOOD MATTERS —by Julie Pegg

Big Bread Italy’s holiday loaf is a sweet seasonal treat whether homemade or bought at your favourite Italian grocer.

hristmas in, Christmas out, every Italian grocer/baker in the city stockpiles panettone (pronounced “pan-e-ton-ay”). Bosa and Cioffi’s, Vancouver’s most familiar Italian food shops, carry a few panettone year round, but come Yuletide, box upon pyramid-shaped box of the airy, raisin-studded celebratory bread dangles from the rafters or crowds the shelves. Sundry artisanal bakeries have adopted and adapted panettone, too. Vancouver’s Terra Breads fashions two types of panettone: one a dense, dried-fruit version and one packed with chocolate and cherries. These come in regular and mini sizes and are not only available for Christmas but also for Valentine’s, Mother’s Day and Thanksgiving. I was surprised to discover that little had been written on this sweet subject. (Check out the indexes of culinary magazines and cookbooks, and “pancakes” flip right into “pan-frying.”) Elizabeth David (Italian Food) nods briefly in panettone’s direction calling it “a kind of brioche containing sultanas,” but she provides no recipe. And my goto for all old world fare, Elizabeth Luard, says nary a word about the bread. Website searches, save Wikipedia, turned up precious little, too. I was lucky enough, on a recent visit to Ontario, to spy Made in Italy, Food and Stories by Georgio Locatelli on my sister’s bookshelf and gleaned some information there. There is little doubt that panettone’s lineage is Milanese. In 1919, a Milanese baker named Angelo Motta began baking the airy bread en masse for fellow townsfolk. Six years later, another local baker, Gioacchino Alemagna, went mano-a-mano with Motta, providing stiff competition. Nestlé gobbled up

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and amalgamated both labels synonymous with panettone in 1990. During the run-up to Christmas, Motta/Alemagna, marketing globally, distributes more than 250,000 panetonnes throughout Italy alone. Panettone means simply “big bread.” But more romantic notions surround panettone’s name. Reference Waverly Root’s Food of Italy or Locatelli’s Made in Italy, (or just Google panettone) and you’ll find a tall tale or two. My favourite is about a nobleman who pretended to be a baker’s apprentice and made a “huge, sumptuous bread” (pan) for “Toni,” a baker’s daughter, with whom he fell in love. Waverly Root claims “pannetone is the world’s best accompaniment for breakfast coffee. It remains fresh for a long time—I don’t know why.” True. Panetonne’s longevity is puzzling. Once I forgot to put a commercially bought one in the freezer. About two weeks’ later, I found it sitting atop the deep freeze unharmed and unaltered, just a bit dry—a perfect building block for a trifle, bread-and-butter pudding and French toast. Traditionally, three two-hour rises give the bread its airy texture. My brother-in-law’s mom, Rena DeClerico, likes to set the dough on the kitchen counter for one long overnight rise. I doubt the massmarketed brands derive their light texture from any careful monitoring. I read somewhere glucose assists in the lightness and durability of mass-marketed panettone. Not a fan of industrial-strength panettone, a Tuscan friend, Bert Ferri, bakes his own. “It was not a local tradition and my mother did not make it. I was inspired by stollen, the German fruit bread. I love the stuff, but being Italian I gave making panetonne a try. I guess my concoction resembles a bit of both.” I can vouch for Bert’s excellent adaptation, having receiving one as a gift. Owner/baker at MIX the Bakery, Rose Concepcion, says she prefers stollen, claiming, “I like the heavy fruit-to-bread ratio and the marzipan centre makes for a far more interesting bread.” Methods for baking panettone sway from easy to advanced. As with many recipes, there can be any number of riffs on the base line, in this case flour, sugar, butter, eggs and yeast. Blanched almonds and candied pineapple dot the Americanized recipe in the Joy of Cooking. A number of modern recipes jazz up the bread with chocolate or liqueur such as limoncello. A ridiculous online formula starts with commercial panetonne, dousing it with orange-flavoured liqueur, cream, nuts and heaven knows what else. And in From Biba’s Italian Kitchen (William Morrow Cookbooks, 1995), Biba Caggiano offers a fine, medium-effort recipe, confining the fruit to dried citron and Madeira-soaked sultanas. As I write this, Biba’s panettone (I took the liberty of adding a few chopped dried apricots), thrice risen, puffs up in the oven, its golden dome peeking from the Melitta coffee tin. Baking panetonne in empty coffee tins turns out a fine dome. Bundt or tube pans also work well. As for the sweet bread’s shelf life? From the look of things, I doubt it will be put to the test.

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www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

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In Part Two of our ongoing series on Seattle, we go outside of the city to visit a re-energized area plus make homage to Pike Place Market

EPICU

A City’s Cinderella Story

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Tacoma is slipping on the glass slipper and shrugging off its status as Seattle’s ugly stepsister with a revitalized museum district and some great dining. by Joseph Blake

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or decades, Tacoma has been Seattle’s forgotten, ugly stepsister. Left to rot and harbouring a scary reputation for racial violence and drug wars, Tacoma began to redevelop its Historic District/Museum District in the 1990s. Shadows of the town’s brawling, first-century waterfront are receding to reveal another urban Cinderella like Vancouver’s Yaletown or the Pearl in Portland—but this one has a glass slipper. The stunning, Arthur Erickson-designed Museum of Glass is an international centre for contemporary art and the cultural cornerstone of Tacoma’s $150-million transformation along Thea Foss Waterway. The museum’s centrepiece is the Hot Shop Amphitheater, where you can watch the museum’s crew and visiting artists create works of art from molten glass. A stateof-the-art audiovisual system and expert commentary provide insight into the glassblowing process during theatre-like demonstrations of the craft. During our visit, the team produced dozens of silver seabirds for the large pools that edge the sprawling, outdoor plazas surrounding Erickson’s striking building. The 500-foot-long Chihuly Bridge of Glass, a pedestrian overpass linking the museum to downtown Tacoma, is a remarkable showcase for the work of famous Tacoma-bred artist Dale Chihuly and a breathtakingly beautiful entrance to the museum. With sunlight pouring through the roof’s scenes of underwater marine life, you feel as if you are floating over the bridge. A few feet away, the renovated Union Station, now a government building and also used for special events, is another showcase for displays of Chihuly’s glassblowing genius. Across Pacific Avenue, rows of restored 19th-century brick warehouses house a 46-acre campus for the University of Washington. Near the Chihuly Bridge of Glass is the Washington State History Museum, the first of the new buildings in Tacoma’s revitalization process and completed in 1996 by architects Charles Moore and Arthur Andersson. A free light rail train runs on an eight-stop route from the Tacoma Dome to the city’s stillemerging Theatre District. One of its stops is at Pacific Avenue in front of Union Station, and we rode it south one stop to the Tacoma Art Museum and then south another stop for an elegant lunch at Pacific Grill. We feasted on chef Aaron Valimont’s Pacifica Cocktail of Dungeness crab, shrimp, clams and mussels with tomato gazpacho, lime, cilantro and Tabasco as well as another house specialty of crisp potato pancake with American sevruga caviar, crème fraîche and chives. We had an even better meal at Indochine, an Asian fusion dining room near Union Station. Chef Ly Ngov’s generous Thai seafood salad offered lightly poached prawns, scallops, calamari and clams marinated in lime, basil, cilantro and garlic served on a bed of fresh garden greens. We also enjoyed the Tangerine Shrimp with cucumber crème fraîche, Yin Yang Ahi and a toasted sesame chicken wrap. A couple of glasses of Willamette Valley Pinot Gris matched a light and sensually spiced meal. Primo Grill is a neighbourhood favourite with furnishings playfully painted by Tacoma Community College students and a warm vibe that matches the Mediterranean menu. I always search out Mexican food when I visit the States, and my Tacoma discovery was La Fodita, where very fresh ingredients reinvigorated the standard, Jalisco-state-inspired offerings. I

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When You Go Hotel Murano, 1320 Broadway, 888-862-3255 Pacific Grill, 1502 Pacific Ave., 253-627-3535 Indochine, 1924 Pacific Ave., 253-272-8200 Primo Grill, 601 S. Pine St. #102, 253-383-7000 La Fodita, 2620 N. Proctor St., 253-752-2878 JazzBones, 2803 6th Ave., 253-396-9169

Porter’s Place, 2615 E. N St., 253-383-7603 Southern Kitchen, 1716 6th Ave., 253-627-4282 Enoteca, 21 N. Tacoma Ave., 253-779-8258 The Ram, 3001 N. Rustin Way, 253-756-7886 Engine House No. 9, 609 N. Pine St., 253-383-7707 The Spar, 2221 N. 30th St., 253-627-8215 Hello, Cupcake, 1740 Pacific Ave., 253

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also visited JazzBones, a live music venue for local and visiting jazz and blues musicians with a special tapas menu on Thursday nights to accompany the offer of free Latin dance lessons. Porter’s Place is a funky southern barbecue joint where the smoky, sweet meats literally fall off the bone of their ribs. This is the real deal, and so is Southern Kitchen, a soul food place for catfish, cornbread and grits. Live, local jazz is served up here as well. Wine lovers might want to check out Enoteca, a tiny room next to the Tacoma Wine Merchants store near the Tacoma Dome (another stop on the free light rail) for Washington state wines, local artisan cheese and fresh chocolate treats. Beer drinkers must visit the Ram on the scenic waterfront. With seven local microbrews including Butterface Amber Ale on tap, a nine-foot screen and 15 smaller television sets scattered around the room, try this bar on game day. Another cool brewpub is Engine House No. 9 (locals call it E9), a neighbourhood hang in a converted historic firehouse. The Spar, the site of Tacoma’s oldest saloon, is another joint with lots of waterfront ghosts and a seaworthy crowd. For the munchies, try Hello, Cupcake on the UW campus. I recommend the Red Velvet frosted with cream cheese. You’ll find lots of locally produced food products at the Thursday Farmer’s Market on Broadway in the Theatre District (9 a.m. to 2 p.m., May-October) and at the Tacoma Dome Market Tuesdays from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m. (June- September). Taste of Tacoma is an annual culinary showcase at Point Defiance Park and this year is scheduled for June 2729. Our recent stay in downtown Tacoma was made much more comfortable and exciting by the amenities at Hotel Murano, a newly opened reincarnation of the former Tacoma Sheraton. Taking its name from the Venetian island where glass is famously made, the Murano’s lobby, atrium and hallways feature the work of 40 international glass artists. The hotel’s modern, European elegance is also enhanced by blown-glass bed lamps, multiple-choice pillow menu, a spiritual menu (in addition to the King James and New American bibles, they’ll send up a copy of the Bhagavad Gita, the Torah, the Koran, the Book of Mormon or the Tao Te Ching), and an iPod in-room port or loaner iPod programmed with rock, jazz, reggae, blues or classical music. A short walk from the Museum District, the new Murano is a dreamy place to spend a couple of days discovering a transformed Tacoma. —Joseph Blake

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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

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Scallops at Campagne obody has to tell EAT readers the market is the soul of any city. Now into its 101st year, Seattle’s Pike Place Market is one of the oldest and maybe wisest in the U.S. It’s Seattle’s number one tourist attraction. Washington State’s, too. And the arguable hub of Pacific Northwest foodiedom. Any Seattle visit starts—and probably ends—right here. Except for the street markets of Paris at Christmas and the country markets of southwest France, I’ll take Pike Place anytime. It’s almost all about food. It hasn’t been hijacked by fast foodsters or corporations (although Starbucks and Seattle’s Best both started here). A governing nonprofit corporation keeps it honest. Eighty per cent of the market economy comes from food. I can’t think of another market that qualifies as a city in itself. Pike Place covers eight city blocks. It has 23 buildings, 250 shops, 100 farmers, 250 craftspeople and 300 buskers. It has its own hotel and bedand-breakfast. It has 400 apartments subsidized for about 500 elderly and low-income earners. Plus a medical clinic, food bank, senior centre, child-care centre and preschool. It should get its own flag. Welcome to Ali Baba’s cave of food. On our last visit, we came home with glowingly fresh Hawaiian swordfish and the biggest scallops we’ve ever seen from Pure Food, the oldest of the four fish markets; dark chocolate linguine—yes, chocolate—from Papardelle’s; chanterelles and Oregon truffles from Sosio’s; hazelnut flour from Holmquist Hazelnut Orchards; and from Le Panier, baguette and croissants the way they turn ’em out in Paree. Along the way, we talked to a lot of uncommonly cheerful people who knew what they were selling, where it came from, what it’s about and why we should buy it. The Market has about 70 eating stops from take-out to full-scale restaurants, so you can practically live here. Campagne, located in the courtyard of the Inn at the Market hotel, gives off the warm amber glow of

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a dining room in the French countryside. Its signature appetizer is—ooh-la-la—foie gras steak, a portion three times the size of the exiguous “toonie” you’d get for the same money in Toronto or Vancouver. This baby explains why they call it “the cocaine of cuisine.” For foodies who feel there’s still hope for their souls, carpaccio of amberjack brings oh-so-delicate flesh lightly marinated in nutty Moroccan Argan oil, a hit. Chef Daisley Gordon, an American, further proves his Gallic credentials with ris de veau—yes, sweetbreads, the grand gland— in butter, shallots and capers. And afterwards, a crrrust, a crrrunch, a blast of crème and a hazelnut crème brulee to rival La Cirque’s Manhattan marvel. The hot newcomer on the Pike Place restaurant scene is the Steelhead Diner, a first restaurant for chef-owner Kevin Davis and his wife, Terresa. Beneficiaries of a smart policy that permits only chef-owners to open Market restaurants, they buy most supplies from Pike Place vendors and boast no ingredients from “south of Oregon or east of Idaho.” You won’t find steelhead trout on the menu—it’s what Chef likes to catch as a fly fisherman—but who cares when you can start with caviar pie? I’ve been lusting after this dish since I read about it 20 years ago. Think mascarpone cream topped with a rainbow of American sturgeon, trout, salmon and golden whitefish eggs, sitting in a hail of onion, egg and capers chopped so fine you can easily ignore it. Health warning: Can produce delirium in the sensually unimpaired. Originally from New Orleans, Kevin Davis cooks American with the current accents of the global village kitchen. His table salt is deeply smoked with alderwood and his pepper zapped with habanero and lemon, both from World Spices on the Market’s lowest level. Razor clam chowder gets the obligatory truffle oil drizzle. His crab cake brings a mittful of Dungeness crab that leaves its peers looking effete by comparison. He flash-fries ling cod for fish and chips. The chips are “brought in.” Too bad: it’s all too good for mcfrites. Where to stay: In the market: Inn at the Market, rooms from $225 to $625, www.innatthemarket.com; Pensione Nichols Bed-and-Breakfast, double $120, www.pensionenichols.com. Downtown Seattle: Andra Hotel, rooms from $189, www.hotelandra.com. Where to eat: Campagne, 206-728-2800, www.campagnerestaurant.com; Steelhead Diner,206-625-0129, www.steelheaddiner.com.

www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

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| eating camus bulb at Camosun College 25 | a hidden gem at Fresh Beginnings 20 | Chicken a la Mexicana in mole sauce at Carlo’s Cantina 21 | plus… up Island openings

VICTORIA

Jon Pul

An artful tearoom, a bbq pork emporium and a soup haven: 3 worthwhile stops this month by Elizabeth Smyth ood can be art, though the reverse is rarely true. At Mela’s Tearoom, owners Elizabeth Levinson and Caroline Macey-Brown most certainly had a vision blending food and art, for the tea tables are nestled inside the Winchester Gallery on Humboldt St. Never before have I been a chai spill away from a $14,000 Warhol. Mela’s Tearoom expands on the sisters’ existing Café Mela with an elegant lunch menu. The fresh choices the day I went included a creamy pink and white quiche of smoked salmon and dill, served with a mixed green salad, for a non-socialite price of $9.95. Pomodori rapini continues the theme of pleasing colours – a deep red tomato encases a velvety egg salad flecked with tarragon, mint, chives, and parsley. And Tuscan ham and cheddar croissant is simple and pure, which a high-end dry ham and L’Ancêtre cheddar cheese from Quebec. Dessert is irresistible – Chocolate Cake with Apricot Preserves and Chocolate Ganache Icing speaks for itself, and the Classic Vanilla Cupcake with Juliana Pink Icing is a must if your special guest is a little girl. The tea menu is just as carefully selected, with 14 teas in the categories of black, white, green oolong, and herbal. The Chai om Prakash is but one example - a blend of Keemun and Assam teas scented with cardamom, cinnamon, fennel, and ginger. And, for the record, I managed to not spill it on the Warhol.

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Rebecca Wellman

cream of potato soup

Rebecca Wellman

Mela’s Tearoom, 792 Humboldt, between Blanshard and Douglas, 250-382-8528 PIG, 749 View Street, between Blanshard and Douglas, near the View St. Parkade, 250-381-4677 Broughton St. Deli, 648 Broughton St, between Douglas and Broad St, 250-380-9988

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A far cry from the elegant atmosphere of Mela’s Tearoom is the put-yer-elbows-on-the-table and honey-yer-droolinbarbeque sauce vibe of PIG on View Street. And therein lies its charm. This is a place to go to get your meal served up in a minute and to enjoy a really good Southern-style sandwich for just 5 bucks. The authentic Southern barbeque flavours are the felicitous result of the owner’s in-depth research and taste testing in Tennessee, Kansas, and Illinois. From those travels come the pulled pork, beef brisket, and smoked chicken sandwiches. The beef brisket was a highlight for me; after being smoked for 17 hours, the sauce-infused meat falls apart in your mouth with a gentle swirl of spice. The pulled pork and smoked chicken pull me down South too, with smoky flavours in the pork, and a great balance of mustard sauce and sweet crunchy pickle on the chicken. Also worth trying are the barbeque beans and corn bread for $1.50 each; I absolutely plan to go back and take out several orders of just those for dinner one day. And of course you have to finish with some downhome pecan pie; these ones are made by a former Sooke Harbour House pastry chef, and that pedi- Smoked Montreal beef sandwich gree shows in the touches of a buttery crust and a hint of bourbon. with curried vegetable soup and

A different high-end restaurant connection brought me to The Broughton Street Deli; it is my wont to ask everyone I meet where they eat for under $12, and this time it was a server at Camille’s who directed me here. Soups figure largely at the Broughton Street Deli, with the butternut squash soup regularly selling out by 12:30. That’s no surprise, as it is sweet, sensual, and inflected with orange flavor. Vegetable chowder is robust and rich to the point of feeling, well, meaty. And the split green pea soup is a light, fresh puree with pieces of ham dissolving in it. The sandwiches come quickly, and are simple, good, and cheap at $4.95. The bread is made fresh in the morning at Irene’s Bakery, and the fillings include a light and flavourful chicken salad with dried cranberries served with a layer of sprouts and slivers of avocado. Another tasty choice is “Veggie Delight,” with shavings of white cheddar, avocado, cucumbers, and red pepper, and strategically not including tomato so the fillings don’t slide out. Don’t leave without a peanut butter cookie. At the owner’s urging, I took one to be polite because I don’t normally like them. Well…now I do. These ones are creamy and moist, not powdery as I feared. Finally, the budget-conscious definitely want to take note of this tip: on days of the full moon, coffee is free until 11 am. And that coffee is all fair trade, so there’s no excuse not to try it out!

Rebecca Wellman

Pulled pork sandwich at PIG

Rebecca Wellman

Elizabeth Levinson and Caroline Macey-Brown

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Pizzeria Prima Strada, 105-230 Cook St., 250-590-8595 he recent discovery of Pizzeria Prima Strada in the Cook Street Village brought back some fond memories. My mother grew up in Montreal in a neighbourhood that included many first-generation Italian families. They shared their homes, their food and their culture with anyone with an appetite. She would make pizza the way the Montreal Italian families used to make it—by preparing dough using a century-old recipe, adding leftover tomato sauce from spaghetti marinara, baking in one very, hot, wood-fired oven (500˚F). Result—a simple Napoli pizza! Born and raised in the San Francisco bay area, Kristen Dallas met up with her future husband, Geoffrey, in the early ’90s while he worked in software development. When Geoffrey and Kristen arrived in Victoria to raise their children, their first discovery was the lack of traditional Italian pizza. Their mutual passion for regional culture and food would eventually coalesce, and the Prima Strada concept was born. Their desire for an authentic pizza experience inspired them to do advanced research at home. They discovered three key things to great pizza: a really hot oven, a naturally leavened starter in the dough and minimal toppings. The Prima Strada pizza is baked in a wood-fired oven at 600˚F. The pies go in one or two at a time and come out in under three minutes. From the pizzaiolo (internationally certified pizza chef ) to the professionally trained barista, Prima Strada does not miss one detail in delivering a delicious product. On our first visit to Prima Strada, we tried the Salsiccia Piccanta: fennel sausage, tomato, mozzarella and roasted bell pepper. The quality of this pizza experience rests within the simplicity of the toppings—a quartet of locally sourced ingredients that deliver clean flavours without the distraction of a chewy or thick crust. On subsequent visits we ordered the Funghi pizza, little more than mushrooms, roasted onions, thyme and a remarkable mozzarella. We started with the salad special—greens, marinated cherry tomatoes and mozzarella. Paired with a local beer, a Pilsner from the Vancouver Island brewery, Prima Strada pizza is not only a feast for the palate; the space itself serves up a constantly changing visual ballet. Sightlines afford a clear view of the traditional oven and the pizzaiolo as they prepare, bake and deliver their hot product to eager patrons. We closed our evening with espresso and a single scoop of gelato. Memories are made of this! —Colin Newell

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Crafted Brew Something fresh and hoppy has just washed up on Victoria’s coastline. —by Gillie Easdon

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n the crest of the culinary “fresh and local is best” wave, Driftwood Brewery breaks on Victoria’s thirsty shores. The microbrewery, comprised of Jason Meyer, CEO, Kevin Hearsum, president, and Gary Lindsay, director of sales and marketing (titles offered up with broad grins, from this company of three) is dedicated to complementing the Island’s present beer offerings with less explored styles, and at times, more challenging varieties. Meyer, who spearheaded the brewery and writes the recipes, is an extreme foodie, making his own sausage, cured meats, cheese and roasting his own coffee. He is most passionate about “furthering craftbrewed beer as a legitimate part of gastronomy on the Island.” Integral to the ethos of Driftwood Brewery is the core belief that fresh beer is superior. With this in mind, the beer will be sold only on the Island, on draught or in bombers (650-mL bottles) at certain private liquor stores. “Travel and temperature changes can compromise characteristics in a beer. Also, we want to be able to provide exceptional customer service in-person,” explains Hearsum. But back to the beer. The flagships are White Bark Wheat Ale, Driftwood Ale and Farmhand Ale. They will also produce seasonals, such as spiced winter ales, imperial stouts and barleywines. White Bark Ale is a Belgian-style Wit with subtle malt, coriander and Curaçao orange peel. It would be described as the lightest of the three beers and pairs well with bitter greens, radishes, acidic fruit (apples, pears), white fish and Chinese food. Farmhand Ale is a Belgian-style Saison, originally brewed for the seasonal workers (thus “saison”), and is composed of tart malt, fruit, spice and a unique yeast. This ale

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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

marries well with sweeter, washed-rind cheeses such as Gouda and Trappist, nuts (filberts, pecans), heavier rye breads, gamey meats, steak and pizza. And finally, we have Driftwood Ale. This is the all-round accessible tasty beer. It is made from a blend of German and Northwest hops with cotton candy and fruit notes. Driftwood Ale is perfect with anything on the barbecue, a pulled pork sandwich, soup, fried chicken, a book, a picnic … add to the list as you see fit. Lindsay, an expert in the industry for over a decade, confides, “The industry is widely excited … It has been great to see the market grow, not just in volume but also in appreciation of craft brewed beer in Victoria.” Unlike the major label beer drinker, craftbeer drinkers, recognized by their basketful of myriad bottles, are not known for their loyalty. They tend to be quite adventuresome and enjoy sampling a selection of beers. In solidarity with Driftwood’s mission to deepen the appreciation and understanding of beer, the brewery will be hosting a series of free seminars covering various topics such as beer and food pairing, Belgian beer and the history of beer. Meyer, a brewer and certified beer judge, will be leading these sessions. One of the most remarkable and unforeseeable elements of building the Driftwood Brewery was the reaction of the beer community, “Other local breweries are really supportive and excited. They’re all beer geeks just like we are,” laughs Meyer. When you are out for a bevvie, look for the Driftwood tap handle; you’ll know it when you see it. After a pint or so, may you, too, appreciate Driftwood Brewery’s slogan, “We Live Great Beer.”

Rebecca Wellman

Rebecca Wellman

Jason Meyer, Gary Lindsay, Kevin Hearsum

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Rebecca Wellman

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Dave Crothall

The Black Stilt

Being true-blue about being truly green.

D

ave Crothall, manager and the owner of the Black Stilt cafés of Victoria, is not satisfied with mere labels. “I’m going to Costa Rica with two or three staff,” he tells EAT, “to visit certified organic and non-certifiedorganic farms to see the differences myself.” Already serving fair-trade, certified-organic beans from the familyowned Oughtred roastery in Delta, B.C., Crothall wants to dig deeper into the world of cultivating the coffea plant, meet the labourers and observe the bean as it travels through its early stages. The Black Stilt is also taking its environmental promises to a deeper level. In an age when consumers must be wary of businesses’ green-washing ploys, Crothall and his staff have made a genuine pledge to reduce waste and their carbon footprint. Compostable to-go cups, coffee lids and other disposables, plus a strict recycling program, divert 90 percent of the Black Stilt’s refuse from the landfill. And

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what does that look like? Crothall explains: “At the new location, we’re producing only two bags of garbage a week, which is pretty awesome for a place that sees hundreds of customers coming through its doors.” Snug on the corner of Fort and Richmond, the new Black Stilt café opened in early fall and Crothrall is patiently observing the culture of this particular milieu for cues. “I move pretty slowly, which I think can drive my staff crazy,” Crothall admits. “But every neighbourhood is different and I’m trying to gauge what this new neighbourhood wants.” Being a part of the lives of the people of the neighbourhood is important to Crothall. In the original Hillside location, the Black Stilt supports the Oaklands Community Centre in a number of ways, including a wall-to-wall homage to children’s art created at an after-school art class at the centre. “Some of it was really quite impressive,” says Crothall. Since then, several local photographers have coloured the walls of the Black Stilt, while Victoria poets and musicians use the floor as their soapbox. Whether you come for a fine cup of the black stuff, the free Wi-Fi, or the ethics, the Black Stilt is a well-rounded player. And at a time when buzzwords like “fair trade,” “organic” and “community” are being tossed around liberally by businesses who want to please, the Black Stilt is trying to go deeper than labels and farther than the reaches of its cafés. —Katie Zdybel

T O O L S O F T H E T R A D E HAUTE CUISINE 1210 Broad Street, Victoria

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www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

15

| introducing La Quercia, Cibo, Campagnolo | plus… the best ever poutine, a cranberry bog & and an all-Canadian cheese shop

VA N C O U V E R

Italian 2.0

Main cour soned, slic oil—are ar $25). It’s a to reveal th tissue long re-inventin Think refin in a tailore

Three new restaurants ignite Vancouver’s inner Italy.

By Andrew Morrison

Tracey Kusiewicz

ond was Cibo (Italian for “food”) on the lobby floor of a new boutique hotel downtown called The Moda (900 Seymour, 604-683-4251, modahotel.ca). And the third will be Campagnolo (Italian for “country bumpkin”), currently under construction on the gritty stretch of Main Street next to the Ivanhoe Hotel (1022 Main). If the three projects have anything in common save for a shared affection for Italian food, it’s that they’re all owned and cheffed by young, non-Italians. A trend, perhaps, but a welcome one (rather than ask where all the Italians have gone, I’m beginning to suspect they were never here). Chefs Lucais Syme and Adam Pegg were wellversed in the myriad Italian cuisines before they opened La Quercia this past July. I first met Syme when he worked the line at the homely but impressive Adesso Bistro in Kitsilano (now sadly a collegekid hangout called Karv). It was here that he and Pegg first met and worked together, and where the seeds for their project were first sown. When Adesso closed in 2005, Syme (who had also staged at Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago) moved on to Cioppino’s before landing at Parkside under celebrated chef Andrey Durbach. When Durbach opened the Italian-themed La Buca in early 2007, Syme joined the brigade, further padding his resume and repertoire. For his part, Pegg worked at Victoria’s Herald Street Caffe and Il Terrazzo before settling in Italy to stage in Piedmont, Abruzzo and Trentino. Before returning to Canada, he became the first CanaKarin Lazzaris, Lucais Syme & Adam Pegg at La Quercia dian to complete the Master of Italian Cooking course at the Higher Institute of Gastronomy in Jesi, just inland from Ancona on the Adriatic coast. year ago I wrote a feature in these pages that wondered why Vancouver had alThe pair were reunited on the line after Pegg signed on at La Buca, and it was here that ways had trouble fielding and supporting great Italian restaurants. There are certainly several that have excelled (Il Giardino, Cioppino’s and more), but many more they began to move quickly towards independence. Rarely does one find an equal parthave withered away or failed dramatically. The story considered several things. First, that nership in the kitchen with a pair of chefs tag-teaming tasks, bouncing ideas off each other unlike Toronto (which has always had a robust Italian dining scene), we’ve never had a and quality-checking every plate that goes out. Yet this is their system, and they seem to large enough base population of Italians living in Vancouver to allow for authentic Italian have it dialled to a science. As Martha Stewart would say, it’s a good thing. Like La Buca, La Quercia’s location is recessed deep in a residential neighbourhood, well to flourish. Second, that the very notion of an authentic, homogeneous Italian cuisine is off the restaurant scene radar. It’s also tiny, with a mere 32 seats in a woody space sporttricky when you consider how many provinces and distinct cooking styles the country boasts. And third, that “mangiacake” fare (alla Chef Boyardee) and ambiance (“O Sole ing bamboo floors and oak accents throughout. For the floor, Pegg’s wife, Karin Lazzaris, imMio”) were too well established as the benchmark for anything resembling “real” to make ported silverware and linens from her family’s hotel in the Italian Dolomites (wooden spoons handcrafted by her father are now used for stirring risottos). The chefs have a much in way of inroads. Modern Italian in Vancouver? Fuggedaboudit. The story also mentioned how Italian Kitchen on Alberni (and now also its little cousin kitchen window through which they can take stock of how diners are coming along, while Trattoria Italian Kitchen on West 4th) demonstrated that the design elements usually as- a two-seat mini-bar affords diners the chance to stare back into the kitchen. No matter sociated with Italian restaurants had died. IK is hyper-modern in appearance, really one of where you sit, the full effect is very warming. Off-white walls hung with mirrors are softly the most fashion-forward and vibrant rooms in recent memory. I’ve since complained about lit, and whatever soundtrack there is gets drowned out by the cacophony of noise that the food (finding it inconsistent and wholly secondary in scope to the restaurant’s “see and comes with a full house, night after night. The menu, according to Pegg just prior to opening, would be “reflective of the simplicity be seen” scene), but I still consider it a spark, albeit a wet one, that has led to a sea change in how this city views the Italian genre. Gone were the straw-covered Chianti bottles and the and classic combinations of Italian cooking.” And so it is. Their food is maturely wrought Lady and the Tramp vibes. It was Milan, circa now, with the only clues to the food concept and totally without extraneous whimsy, staying true to Pegg’s warning that there would be revealed on a menu that steered corporate nabobs and plastic surgery refugees towards “no foam this or scented that.” That isn’t to say the many dishes I’ve tried were unexciting. dining family-style through a range of sharable platters. Though it could have been tastier, Far from it. Their sous vide vitello tonnato, for example, a staple dish of thin veal lathered in a creamy, tuna-flavoured sauce, was better than any I’ve ever had, the meat dissolving it was certainly amusing to watch. Since then, two of the best restaurants to open in Vancouver have been Italian, and there beautifully on the molars with the acidic accelerants of capers and lemon juice. Pastas like is a third probable winner on the way. The first was La Quercia (Italian for “the oak tree”), their agnolotti di Guido (stuffed with veal, ricotta, Swiss chard) and their hearty take on found where West 4th and Alma meet (3689 W. 4th, 604-676-1007, laquercia.ca). The sec- Bolognese ragu shine sharply with bold flavours that don’t overwhelm or ever get tired.

16

EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

Tracey Kusiewicz

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Main courses like tagliata di manzo—a well-rested flat-iron steak grilled rare, seasoned, sliced and topped with fresh arugula, pine nuts, parmesan shavings and olive oil—are artfully laid out and don’t break the bank (large dishes range from $18 to $25). It’s a very small menu of 11 plates, but the special board is constantly updated to reveal their deep bench. It is food that triggers dormant strands of Vancouver brain tissue long paralyzed by years of bad pizzas and overcooked noodles. “We are not re-inventing the wheel,” Pegg advised at the outset, “but rather making it perfect.” Think refined rusticity. Think Peter Zambri meets Mario Batali but cleanly shaven and in a tailored English suit. Think perfect.

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Tracey Kusiewicz

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Sahara Tamarin, Neil Taylor, Sebastien LeGoff at Cibo Cibo is as similar to La Quercia as it is different: sexy, modern and bereft of any design clues as to what awaits on the plate; you wouldn’t think it was an Italian restaurant if you walked by. Anchored by old cedar pillars and original 1908 terracotta floors, the room is dominated by two large portraits of expressionless African women, their six-foot faces boldly rendered on canvases that gleam brightly with lime greens, pig pinks and lemon yellows. Banquettes upholstered in sable leather and grey plush accompany rigid, black-topped tables and candy-striped chairs. A white marble fireplace flanks a glassed-in tower of wine, and the glow of the light fixtures is held within by partially frosted picture windows that look out onto bustling Seymour (the one-way traffic zips by, incessant red tail lights providing a perennial sense of movement). The soundtrack, which morphs between Euro-pop and synth, is far removed from what I’d expect in an Italian restaurant, but I couldn’t help but find it refreshing. It’s a very calm space that stops just short of being boring. As a consequence of having the service station out of sight, one never sees the casually kitted staff loitering, and since the bar is located on the other side of the building, it appears at once sedate and serene, regardless of how busy it may be. Like the two Italian Kitchens, only when the menu arrives does its “Italian-ness” become clear. Since opening in July, Cibo has wowed local foodies with its simply ex-

www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

17

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18

EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

Wh

Tim Pittman, Tom Doughty, Alvin Pillay (chef de cuisine) & Rob Belcham at Campagnolo Belcham’s near-obsession with swine. There is a saying in the city of Parma, Emilia-Romagna’s capital: “The pig is like Verdi’s music, there’s nothing to throw away.” Belcham, who famously prepared a special “Whole Hog Dinner” in 2007 that included housemade charcuterie, braised crown bacon, stuffed pig’s ear, crispy sweetbreads and roasted saddle, was sold. Campagnolo, which should open very shortly after this goes to print (they’re aiming for November 1) will offer a 65-seat open-concept dining room buttressed by old-growth fir beams, as well as a 25-seat wine bar tucked in the back. Doughty, a past Sommelier of the Year and winemaker in his own right (Montagu Cellars), is busily working on a wine list that will feature many Italian and B.C. labels built to pair with Belcham’s menu of salumi, pizzas, pastas, risottos and seasonally inspired main courses. “Rob, Tim and I simply love Italian food, Italian style and Italian zest for life,” Doughty says. “We also feel that everyone, somewhere inside them, loves Italian food as well.” We most certainly do. La Quercia | 3689 West 4th just off of Alma | www.laquercia.ca | 604.676.1007 Cibo | 900 Seymour Street | www.modahotel.ca | 604.602.9570 Campagnolo | 1022 Main Street

Tracey Kusiewicz

pressed fare. Few dishes have more than two or three dominant flavours, each one revealing by way of exquisite harmony the chef’s intuitive sense for what traditions can be improved upon. The beef carpaccio, for example, wasn’t the machine-sliced, wax-paperthin jobs that get pre-prepped, shrink-wrapped and stacked in the fridge prior to service. The Cibo version sees beef tenderloin hand-carved to order, all gussied with farm-fresh watercress and sprinkled conservatively with sea salt and pepperoncino. Pasta dishes border on the sublime. I was awed by the subtle fennel and oregano twang of the Sloping Hill’s pork-stuffed agnolotti, so gently flavoured with drips of aged balsamic and a conservative grate of parmesan. A light touch permeates everything. Executive chef Neil Taylor, who arrived in Vancouver from the U.K. just a little over a month before Cibo debuted, had the milieu already figured out. He came from London’s famed River Cafe, an Italian-themed icon based on the same local, seasonal and organic principles that have come to define Vancouver’s emergence as an internationally recognized food city (it was also home to celebrity chef Jamie Oliver, but that’s neither here nor there). Taylor quickly made the rounds of our markets and met the suppliers who’ve kept the high-end restaurant engines roaring, took a tour of some of our better restaurants, and got to work crafting a dinner menu that didn’t lean on what’s familiar to mangiacake palates (no “red sauce” drenched spaghetti and meatballs here). His kitchen also functions without the aid of a large commercial freezer, forcing him to keep his menu fresh and on its toes. After its first week, the menu began to mutate to reflect what was showing best at our markets. Two months later, I’m thrilled that I can no longer recognize it. Campagnolo is not yet finished, but it holds plenty of promise. Located in the old Adega spot on the grungy stretch of Main that connects to the Georgia Viaduct, it’s the last place I would expect Tom Doughty, Robert Belcham and Tim Pittman to open their second restaurant. The first, West 4th’s popular Fuel, was widely acknowledged as the top new eatery to open in 2007. “The location poses a challenge for us in terms of its current neighbourhood,” Doughty says, “but we would sure feel great to be considered a sort of restaurant pioneer for the area.” Why not? It’s entirely possible. Wild Rice and Chambar were certainly huge risks when they opened in the Crosstown neighbourhood, as were Salt Tasting Room and Boneta in Gastown. In the end, it comes down to strength of concept and an unyielding dedication to quality, both of which the Fuel fellows have in spades. We know the Fuel fellows are dedicated to quality and that local sourcing of ingredients is a top priority, but what of the concept? What’s fascinating about their new Italian venture is not so much which regions they chose to focus on but rather the manner in which the choosing was done. Campagnolo’s chef de cuisine Alvin Pillay was a kitchen asset at Fuel, an employee that Belcham and Doughty identified as a genuine talent and someone they did not want to lose. So when Pillay thought it was time to move on and give notice that he wanted to work and travel through Europe to learn more, Doughty and Belcham gave him an offer he couldn’t refuse. “What do you think about going to Italy for us?” In a surprising move, they bankrolled Pillay’s six-month culinary safari to go in search of a place where the available proteins best mirrored those of B.C. Pillay started in the south at Naples before heading north, eventually reporting back that the Piedmont and EmiliaRomagna regions had the “right stuff.” Lamb, beef and chicken dishes abounded, but pork dishes accounted for most of the region’s specialties. This dovetailed nicely with

Salsify, a lon named the “v oyster-like fla September to able in winte cooked vegeta Winter is the parsnips. The dient for chick sautéed in sti mashed pota Michell Brot Sluggett farm Large, round, one of my fav These sweet, store them in BC produces ally for food Fraser Valley. Numerous loc carrots and p thick hard rind copia of wint acorn, butter Hubbard-- sim

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What’s in Season

Tracey Kusiewicz

, Tom n Pillay sine) am at olo

GET FRESH —by Sylvia Weinstock

Salsify, a long skinny brown root, is nicknamed the “vegetable oyster” because of its oyster-like flavour. Salsify is available from September to February. Black salsify is available in winter. Use salsify in soups or as a cooked vegetable. Winter is the peak period for the sweetest parsnips. These roots are an essential ingredient for chicken soup. They can be roasted, sautéed in stir-fries, or boiled and eaten like mashed potatoes. In Saanich, Firbank, Mar, Michell Brothers, Oldfield Orchard and Sluggett farms grow parsnips. Large, round, golden Walla Walla onions are one of my favourite types of sweet onions. These sweet, juicy onions are 90% water, so store them in a cool, ventilated area. BC produces about 15,000 pheasants annually for food consumption, primarily in the Fraser Valley. Numerous local farms grow winter squash, carrots and potatoes. Winter squash have thick hard rinds and firm flesh. Enjoy a cornucopia of winter squash varieties--including acorn, buttercup, butternut, spaghetti and Hubbard-- simmered, baked or steamed. Did you know that rich, creamy Yukon Gold potatoes were the first Canadian-bred potatoes

to be marketed and promoted by name? A research team at the University of Guelph, led by potato breeder Dr. Gary Johnston and sponsored by Agriculture and Agri-food Canada, spent years experimenting with potatoes and finally achieved success by crossbreeding a North American white potato (Norgleam) with a wild South American yellow-fleshed variety. The result was the delicious, golden Yukon Gold potato, which received licensing in 1980. Sweet potatoes are a traditional treat for Thanksgiving and Christmas feasts. The orange or yellow-fleshed tubers are often confused with yams, which belong to an unrelated plant species. You can bake them, roast them, boil and mash them, candy them with brown sugar to make them even sweeter, or bake them into a sweet potato pie. Sooke Chicken Farm at 6606 Helgesen Road, Sooke, sells chicken stock made from their farm-raised chickens. Contact sookechicken@shaw.ca. Venturi-Schulze Vineyards in Cobble Hill operates a vinegary that produces barrel-aged Balsamic vinegar. Other local vinegar producers include Sea Cider Farm and Cidery in Saanich and Valhalla Farm in Cobble Hill. Spinnaker’s Brew Pub also produces their own line of malt vinegars.

Pick the best Study with us. Culinary Arts, Baking & Pastry Arts Call 604-734-4488 or book a tour online www.picachef.com 1505 West Second Avenue Vancouver, BC V6H 3Y4 info@picachef.com

RECIPE

Pheasant Stew with Cranberry Compote Castro Boateng, the Executive Chef of The Aerie, lets this stew simmer at home for hours while he is at the restaurant, so he can enjoy a hot, hearty meal when he gets home from work. Serves: 4 4 pheasant legs, back attached 1 Walla Walla onion (Cobble Hill Organic) 1 Yukon Gold potato, medium size 1 parsnip 1 carrot (Cobble Hill Organic) 1 salsify 1 small winter squash (Cobble Hill Organic) 1 small sweet potato 4 plum tomatoes * 1cup chicken stock 1/4 cup red wine Salt, black pepper and fresh thyme sprigs, to taste Canola oil Cut vegetables into a medium sized dice. Split each pheasant leg into two pieces through the joint. Pre-heat a large pot with approximately 2 tablespoons of canola oil over medium-high heat. Season pheasant legs with salt and pepper

and place them in the pot. Sear legs until they are golden brown on all sides. Remove the legs. Add diced onions, potatoes, carrots, salsify and parsnips. When vegetables start to colour, add tomatoes, red wine, chicken stock and fresh thyme sprigs. Bring to a boil. Pour all ingredients into a slow cooker. Cover and stew for approximately 1 hour. Add diced squash and sweet potatoes. Continue cooking on low heat for 2 hours or until tender. Divide into bowls. Serve with a crusty baguette and cranberry compote. * Use canned plum tomatoes if desired.

Cranberry Compote 250 gr. organic dried cranberries 1/4 cup port 1 tbsp. sugar Splash of red wine vinegar In a medium saucepot, bring port, sugar and vinegar to a boil. Add dried cranberries and reduce heat to a slow simmer. Once the liquid is reduced and the mixture is a syrupy consistency, remove from heat and cool. Spoon over pheasant stew.

www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

19

The Quest: Une Bonne Poutine

— A. Morrison

The traditional fries, curds and gravy combo is all very well, but the French-Canadian snack can atain more lofty heights. Three that do.

Tracey Kusiewicz

If Americans have apple pie, we Canadians have poutine. I can’t think of any food that is as emblematic of this country. Originating in Quebec towards the end of the 1950s (the exact details of its genesis are the stuff of urban myth), it has become ubiquitous, appearing on menus from coast to coast in restaurants that range from fast food chains like McDonald’s and KFC to high-end joints like Vancouver’s Feenie’s and Toronto’s Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar. Though there are many versions, most don’t stray far from the fries, cheese curds and gravy triumvirate. For this issue’s quest, I went in search of delicious rather than price point or fealty to the original. The first was at Fritz European Fry House downtown. The place is Vancouver’s mecca of french fries, with toppings that range from the commonplace (zesty ketchup) to the truly surreal (Indonesian peanut sauce). I had their regular poutine (to which one can add myriad extras), which turned out to be a pretty fair approximation of the types I’ve wolfed in front of the “cantines” and “casse-croûtes” of Montreal. Gut-lining and salty, the fries at the bottom of my cup soon turned to brownish, gooey mush. That’s OK for a snack after the bars close (they’re open to 3 a.m. and therefore a nightly magnet for drunks) and typical for a standard poutine, but it left me wanting something different.

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The second was at West Vancouver’s Ocean Club (#105-100 Park Royal W., 604-926-2326, theoceanclub.ca), where their $10 take saw bright and thinnish yam fries garnished with caramelized onions, smothered in white cheddar and mounted with truffled short rib meat. It was an overwhelmingly large portion and I suspect not all that good for me, but it was more comfortable than my bed and a sight tastier than the standard. The third was at Crave, where they do poutine in a similar style (3941 Main St, 604-872-3663, craveonmain.ca). They use more short rib jus, however, switch up the yams for potatoes, add truffled parmesan cheese, and sidesaddle some foie gras mayonnaise. It’s pricey at $11, but chances are it’ll keep you full for the rest of the evening. For my money, however, The Ocean Club had more power on the palate. Finally, it was Chambar’s turn, and I must confess it has long been a favourite (562 Beatty St., 604-879-7119, chambar.com). None of the others can really hold a candle to chef Nico Schuermans’ poutine à la Belge in the originality sweeps. The french fries are perfectly good, the pink peppercorns are more of a textural footnote than a dominant ingredient, and the blue cheese and red wine demi gel exceptionally well. If I have any complaint, it’s that the portion is too small for $9. It might be unorthodox and an acquired taste, but I’ve acquired it.

Nico Schuermans of Chambar with his Belgian-style poutine .

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20

EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

Morrison

can atain

More Cheese Please ... and make it Canadian. eatly decked out in checked shirt and blue jeans, Peter Davidson starts me out on an intensely blue-veined cheese, meltingly creamy, salt-and-sea tangy, with a touch of grassiness. I swoon. The cheese is Gaie Bleu from New Brunswick. Davidson is owner/operator of Mount Pleasant Cheese, open since May. The locals’ reaction has been “rapturous,” says Davidson. The all-Canadian fromagerie adds another happy food note (Capers, Pied à Terre, Figmint in the Plaza 500) to the revitalized Cambie Corridor, which had succumbed to business-busting construction of the Canada Line transit route. Among the cheeses behind the gleaming counter are crumbly acidic Gorts Gouda from Salmon Arm and Cendré de Prés from Quebec, an earthy, organic, oozy brie lined with ash. I was thrilled also to find peppercorn-crusted Pepata Fresco and Taleggio-like Paradiso from Monforte Dairy, which I have visited, in Ontario’s Mennonite country. There’s space enough for the junior set to taste cheeses (and crayon) at mini-sized table and chairs. For the older crowd, the Cheese Education Program holds cheese seminars on par with fine wine seminars. (Bonus! At this writing they were free.) Those of drinking age can sip/savour wine and cheese at tastings in conjunction with Firefly Fine Wines and Ales. Discounts are offered to those who subscribe to Mount Pleasant’s newsletter. —by Julie Pegg

N

ub (#105-100 here their $10 nished with and mounted gly large poras more comstandard. The ar style (3941 e more short , add truffled mayonnaise. for the rest of lub had more

ss it has long hambar.com). to chef Nico sweeps. The rns are more and the blue If I have any 9. It might be ed it.

Mt. Pleasant Cheese’s Peter Davidson

CRANBERRY FIELDS FOREVER

Cranberries? On Vancouver Island? Who knew? Everyone but

me it would seem. I am crazy for cranberries. I use them in countless recipes all year long and slosh the juice down like a

pirate with a keg of rum. However, I peak in December. I stick the little red rubies in just about everything I concoct for holiday eating. Yellow Point Cranberry Farm, located just north of

Ladysmith [www.yellowpointcranberries.com, 4532 Yellow

Point Road, Ladysmith, Tel: 250-245-5283] is home to all

things tart and tasty. The farm, owned by Grant and Justine

Mount Pleasant Cheese, 3432 Cambie St. (beside the Park Theatre opposite Pied à Terre), Vancouver, 604-875-6363. Hours of operation: 10 a.m.-7 p.m.

Keefer, is over 43 acres with 15 acres dedicated to cranberries.

Cranberries are a North American thing. First Nations peoples, who used the berries for food and as a dye, introduced them to New World settlers in the 17th century. Recognized as a source for vitamin C, sailors carried them on shipboard

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to prevent scurvy. Wild cranberries are closely related to blueberries. The plumper cultured varieties grow on low,

broadleaf evergreen vines and need a cooler climate within which to prosper. The vines are cultivated in beds called marshes or bogs. The bogs are left dry until harvest, whereupon they are collected two ways. In late September, there

is a “dry” harvest. Fresh cranberries are firm, not squishy, and will bounce if dropped. These are the berries sold in bags at the supermarket or farmers’ markets or used in condiments. The second harvest in late October is done by flooding

the bog. Cranberries float, as such, they rise to the surface making the harvesting somewhat easier, albeit you are up to your chest in waders, slogging about in a cold bog. The “wet” berries are used 100% for juice. Yellow Point Cranberries

are jewel-like spheres of mouth-puckering goodness. Cranberry Cottage Kitchen, located on the farm, sells over 20 varieties of cranberry confections including sauces, vinegars, salsas and chutneys. As cranberries are also an indispensa-

ble part of any festive meal, if you visit the farm, you may also buy bags of fresh cranberries and cook up your own

vaccinium oxycoccos recipes to go along with your roast tryptophan. So pucker up. The holidays are almost here and now you know where to buy the best cranberries possible! —Su Grimmer

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Pacific In with stud

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as co pra bla mixing bowls is palpable, h Chefs Tony Dubrulle (now ing and decid then deciding for my custom Minichiello candidates w and pronto. Ray McMan twenty-five y leave my care At another in Montreal. for food,” he The realitie faster, no-hol they need to all there, just

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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

US

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Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts executive chef & program director Julian Bond with student Tara Kim

P

Good cooks are also continually emerging from another private school, located at the foot of the bustling entrance to Granville Island. The Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts (PICA) has the boutique feel of a 100-student school and the confidence of over a decade’s worth of instruction. Julian Bond, Executive Chef and Program Director, gives a tour of the compact, yet extensive facilities that he has been teaching in since the summer of 2007. He left Dubrulle to return to the industry but serendipitously found his way back to teaching after the end of his tenure at as the corporate chef of the Cactus Club chain. “Cooking school is not where chefs go to retire,” he insists. There is a vibrant gleam in his eye and a note of pride in his voice as he explains how it all works. “It’s a simple little school, but I like it!” he says. Students pay about $13,000 for six months of full-time, hands-on education. Classrooms are intimate, with only 15 students for each culinary arts stream, and 12 for the baking and pastry arts ones. It’s one hour of lecture time at the start of the day, and then six hours of concentrated hands-on work on the fundamentals. After three months of toiling diligently under one chef instructor, students move onto producing for the catering and bakeshop divisions or working in the on-site restaurant. During a recent visit, students were rolling truffles in the chocolate room, doing mise en place in the restaurant kitchen, and assembling elaborate wedding cakes for catering orders. The whole operation may be streamlined and efficient but it still has the feel of a trusting community: there are no locks on coolers

Steve Yzerman, a student at Northwest Culinary Academy, hones his knive skills.

www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

Tracey Kusiewicz

ass through the doors of Northwest Culinary Academy on Main Street, and you’ll find the next great cooks. In a large teaching kitchen, students work in teams, bent over cutting boards as they painstakingly practice knife cuts. Instructors circulate around the room, encouraging everyone to feel the rhythm of the blade as they julienne carrots into thin, precise matchsticks. Next door, the pastry students are washing mixing bowls as the aroma of freshly baked French apple tarts wafts in the air. The passionate energy in the school is palpable, highly infectious, and indicative of the high intensity of today’s culinary education. Chefs Tony Minichiello and Christophe Kwiatkowsky opened Northwest in 2004 after working for four years at Dubrulle (now The International Culinary School at the Art Institute of Vancouver). They saw that changes were coming and decided to abandon ship in favour of their own academy. “It’s equivalent to a chef working for a chain and then deciding he’d rather have his own kitchen. It’s the freedom to do my menu in a way that I think would work best for my customer base,” Minichiello explains. Minichiello realized that his teaching “menu” would have to change in order to suit a new student profile. These candidates were older, had been around the block professionally, and were ready to commit to a cooking career— and pronto. Ray McManus is one such student. Taking a breather from his vegetable stock, he recounts how he left behind his twenty-five years of PR experience and his prestigious executive position for the lowly rewards of the kitchen. “To leave my career was a big decision but I look forward to coming every day,” he says, beaming with contentment. At another work station, Ben Zhang is full of zest for his new career after wearying of his job as a fashion designer in Montreal. He wanted something fresh and different that really mattered to him. “I feel like I have more passion for food,” he insists. The realities of career change mean that these students are hungry for teaching that pushes them harder and faster, no-holds-barred. The result is a fifteen week full-time course that rapidly equips students with the skills that they need to survive in the industry. Hygiene and safety, dry heat cooking methods, food costing, charcuterie—it’s all there, just done at an accelerated rate. “We created a curriculum that doesn’t have the fillers, that doesn’t lie,”

Minichiello says. He continues, “There are a lot of people who debate that this [program] is too short but I beg to differ. I think anything else would be too long. Students need to get into the industry.” Minichiello exudes an unwavering intensity that he seeks to foster in the students who are willing to pay the $7,000 to 8,000 tuition. As the admissions officer, he interviews all applicants, accepting students who are mature, conscientious, bright, and “real.” Dreams of grandeur dissipate as instructors hammer in the necessity of perseverance, coupled with a positive attitude. These traits will come in handy as students undergo constant evaluation in both their theoretical and practical skills. The last four days of school—the culmination of their studies—are devoted to cooking for industry professionals who stringently judge their performance. Students emerge firmly grounded in the knowledge that they have taken a first step in their nascent culinary career. “I do not produce chefs. When you graduate from here, you are nowhere close to a chef. [Students] realize that being a chef means more than any school can offer so let’s concentrate on being a good cook,” Minichiello says.

23

Tracey Kusiewicz and students leave their belongings out in the open. Much of the success of this community can be attributed to founder and president Sue Singer who opened the school after receiving valuable feedback from the industry. “I thought there was a need - in Canada particularly. I felt that there was a better way to build a mousetrap,” she explains. Since opening, she has kept the school well connected to the industry. PICA was a founding partner of Ocean Wise, has regular prominent guest chefs (eg. Claire Clarke, Pastry Chef from The French Laundry), and takes students on field trips to suppliers like Albion Fisheries. “You can’t just put blinders on here and teach your foundations and then open your doors and say, ‘Here you go,’” she says. Despite all the school’s offerings, Singer still has prospective students coming to her. confused about the differences in program lengths between schools. She responds: “I think you need to assess the number of hours. Otherwise, you’re going to lose the essence of the training. I think that’s the honest way to do it. Ours is six months, seven to eight hours a day. It’s 875 hours of training.” Bond adds that it is all about intense contact hours that are nurturing without “sugar coating it.” Although Singer is pleased with the school’s high quality education, she does have qualms with the government’s treatment of her international students. “I think that as a province, we could certainly recognize what international students do, and that they are very valuable. They should be able to exercise the right of working upon graduation which is only available to the public system and not private.” She adds that, local or international, PICA students have gone on to do great things, from Laurie Munn who is the chef at Café Brio, to Alec Lomas who works as Executive Chef at the Centara Kata Resort in Phuket, Thailand. Over at Bond's and Minichiello’s old teaching alma mater, a totally different philosophy is at work. The International Culinary School at the Art Institute of Vancouver has gone through a couple of incarnations: first, when the Art Institute acquired Dubrulle in 2003, and secondly, in 2007, when it underwent a name change that highlights its connections to over twenty-five other schools under the Art Institute umbrella. At its Pacific Centre tower location, the feel is professional and expansive. As the elevator doors slide open, decorated fondant cakes and sugar art projects impress behind glass display cases. Students and instructors in immaculately white uniforms walk briskly along corridors as they head to lecture rooms or one of three teaching kitchens. Over in chef Paul Massincaud’s classroom, students spread tomato sauce onto rolled-out pizza dough while buttery croissants do their magic in the oven. And in chef Daniel Riviere’s gleaming kitchen, culinary beginners perfect their knife skills as they prep for their ratatouille. President Tom Kim is proud of this busy activity, and especially enthusiastic about the changes to the old Dubrulle program that he believes will improve the “employability” and “promotability” of his diverse student body. He explains: “Because so many of our students wanted to be business owners we didn’t think it was sufficient of us to just offer the skills for cooking. We felt it was imperative that we afforded them the opportunity to advance their knowledge.” To respond to this perceived demand, the school not only offers its regular year long (four quarter) culinary arts program, but also a year and a half Culinary Arts & Restaurant Ownership diploma. Students in the six-quarter option will be exposed to business plans, mathematics, writing, and HR management. Kim insists that extra courses, like “Marketing of Hospitality Services,” improve student’s business savvy but do so without compro-

24

EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

Tracey Kusiewicz

Paul Massincaud teaches a class at the The International Culinary School at the Art Institute of Vancouver

mising their balance of ac bility and ad vocational an The school to go beyond tation as a se a meeting ro from a stack chats about t stitute struct gree-granting we are not de on a credit b schedule for ing that stude (eg 2nd Qua tional Cuisine tification, Nor simultaneous It’s like a univ ulas and chef This thoro come cheapl quarter make nancial inves the tuition is that and com ition cost from stitutions—t students—an favourably.” Kim dismis gram, arguing education in essary time i in the industr erated Culina real world ex pared? I think Such a len in a hot labou because the

oming to her. responds: “I e the essence even to eight contact hours

he does have hink that as a that they are uation which nternational, e chef at Café rt in Phuket,

nt philosophy ver has gone rulle in 2003, connections

As the elevabehind glass briskly along er in chef Paul a dough while ming kitchen,

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Tracey Kusiewicz

this commuhool after red - in Canada lains. was a foundlarke, Pastry rs like Albion nd then open

get in most likely. But think down the road. At some point, if you want to move up, those who have training should be more attractive to the employer for advancing. I trust that it will be our graduates who will have a year minimum with us,” he says. Tracey Kusiewicz

rnational

Chef John-Carlo Felicella, Head of the Culinary Arts Department at Vancouver Community College

mising their core cooking skills. “It’s that balance of academics to enhance promotability and advancement, coupled with the vocational and employable skills,” he says. The school is confident that the decision to go beyond cooking will bolster its reputation as a serious academic institution. In a meeting room, Kim selects a brochure from a stack of program handouts, and chats about the particularities of the Art Institute structure. “The Art Institutes are degree-granting institutes typically. In Canada, we are not degree granting yet but we run on a credit basis,” he says. He points to a schedule for the culinary program, explaining that students take roughly four courses (eg 2nd Quarter: Intro to Baking, International Cuisine, Purchasing & Product Identification, North American Regional Cuisine) simultaneously during a three month term. It’s like a university system, only with spatulas and chef’s knives. This thorough, formal training doesn’t come cheaply though. Roughly $5,000 per quarter makes the program a significant financial investment. Kim emphasizes that the tuition is more than competitive: “Take that and compare us to an unsubsidized tuition cost from any of the post-secondary institutions—the tuition charged to foreign students—and I would say that we compare favourably.” Kim dismisses criticism of the longer program, arguing that students get a thorough education in school while also getting necessary time in a restaurant. An externship in the industry, and a stint in the school-operated Culinaria restaurant provide some real world experience. “Are they fully prepared? I think so,” he insists. Such a lengthy program is a harder sell in a hot labour market. “It’s hard right now because the demand is there and you can

This long-term outlook is mirrored at another culinary institution with its own unique teaching environment. Unlike the private schools, Vancouver Community College (VCC) has access to public funding which means that tuition is substantially lower (approximately $5,000 for a year), and that it has a much broader, more inclusive mandate. The school offers ESL versions of its programs, career prep for special needs students, and is about to launch an Aboriginal culinary stream in September. It also runs ACE IT, an initiative that partners with local high schools to provide teens with culinary training. And an Asian Culinary Arts program, run by chef Conrad Leung, gives students a wok through Mandarin and Szechuan cuisine, as well as dim sum and Chinese barbecuing techniques. Breadth is equally reflected in the kitchens and classrooms that are spread throughout the Pender Street three-storey building. Facilities are not luxurious but exude a cheerful utilitarianism that gives aspiring cooks a comprehensive bang for their buck. Teaching labs are structured according to one-month themed lesson “blocks” that students move through during their school year. For example, industrial-size stockpots dominate the kitchen where students learn soup and stock basics. The butchery meanwhile has a large smoker and a locker for storing the meat that students fabricate into cuts. Chef John-Carlo Felicella, Head of the Culinary Arts Department, says that the school has stayed consistent since he attended it in 1983, back when it was the Vancouver Vocational Institute (VVI). He trained right out of high school, full of cocky bravado and little knowing that one day he would return as an instructor. Teaching didn’t come naturally for Felicella who fell into the profession after he received a last minute, desperate call one Sunday night: “They said, ‘JC, we need you to come in. Can you do it for a couple of days? Well, a couple of days turned into a couple of weeks, which turned into a couple of years. Next thing you know it, I’m there full-time.” Felicella eventually chose VCC over his restaurant in West Vancouver, La Toque Blanche, and hasn’t looked back since. His teaching evolved once he realized that the short fuse of a restaurant chef has no place in a classroom setting. “You can be a genius

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25

behind the stoves but you can be a lousy teacher. You have to be more sympathetic and understanding,” he explains. Asked what makes VCC distinctive, Felicella replies that the sheer volume of production prepares students for the repetitiveness of the industry, while also giving them tons of chances to perfect their skills: “We are not making one litre of soup to take home. We’re making twenty-five litres. We’re making thirty portions of a certain project instead of just one.” Students produce ingredients for other classes, the VCC retail store, and even the student-run cafeteria and JJ’s Dining Room. “Everything ties into everything in this big machine here,” he says. Starting in 2009, the current program will lengthen into an 18 to 20 month diploma for more advanced study. On the table are molecular gastronomy, thermal immersion circulators, restaurant management, and a greater range of ethnic cuisines. However, despite this more sophisticated curriculum, Felicella will continue to keep his students rooted in the essentials: “There are modern ways of cooking right now but we still have to teach them how to use the fire.”

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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

Tracey Kusiewicz

specialty foods

One VCC alumni who has mastered both the basics and the advanced is Poyan Danesh, now saucier at the Pear Tree in Burnaby. Danesh studied at VCC in 2003 after abandoning dental hygienist studies, and was quickly recruited by Showcase Restaurant post-graduation. Out of school, Danesh quickly found himself learning new cooking techniques that built upon the knowledge that he had developed in school. He is adamant that he wouldn’t be where he is today if not for his VCC training: “The fundamentals that you learn from school set you on the right path. And with all the connections that I’ve gotten from the chefs there [at VCC], there’s no way I could have done all that I’ve accomplished.” Marcel Gibeau, a recent 2008 graduate from the International Culinary Institute, is equally thankful for his culinary education. Along with a decade of catering experience, he feels that his diploma will impress any employer reluctant to take on a more Sanders, a 2004 mature applicant. Meanwhile, Sam Pavan, Katie who attended Northwest in 2006, says that graduate of the Art Institute at his schooling led to a job offer at CiopAurora Bistro pino’s during a one-day stage. “Northwest taught me all the things that I needed to know so I could leave and learn more and do my own thing,” he says. However, school is certainly not the only way to ascend in the back of the house. Take Quang Dang, chef de cuisine at C Restaurant, who started off in the dish pit at Joey’s, slaving away in obscurity until he moved up the ranks. Chris Mills who was doing product development at Joey’s recognized Dang’s potential and got him to commit to a career path that has taken the young cook to Joe Fortes, Diva at the Met, and now C. “I’m biased because I’ve never been to cooking school and I’ve never been a great student. I’m better off being more self-taught and learning through my own mistakes,” says Dang. An ability to absorb information readily and to shift mental gears on a dime has been essential to his career advancement. He concedes though that formal training might be an option for someone who “needs to have things spelled out in a very regimented and ruleoriented style.” On the hiring side, Executive Chef William Tse at Goldfish Pacific Kitchen, says about eighty percent of his cooks have formal training. Diploma or not, he gives positions to those who are open to learning and are continually asking questions. “For me, I base my kitchen on performance and heart,” he explains. Untested employees begin on prep, and prove their mettle on a busy weekend shift before they progress to garde manger or another starter line position. Executive Chef Robert Belcham at Fuel Restaurant also looks for a positive attitude toward food and the restaurant business, adding that the lack of time for in-depth training means that applicants still need a high skill set to work in his kitchen. Belcham maintains a strong working relationship with Minichiello at Northwest by making guest appearances and giving feedback on curriculum. He cites restaurant management and health and food safety as two knowledge deficits that schools really need to hone in on: “Health and food

safety are so we have to d sources come diligent all t should be ta sure that hap He urges sc struction tha are continual ven approach pecially imp restaurants a “The phone Minichiello. Fortunately fresh talent w ate, and read the field. Kati the Art Institu her educatio Bistro. “It’s s you come ou that you can t first day of th takes. I’m so chef like Jeff [ us really lear learning post new generati ing to face th the job.

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safety are some of the biggest issues that we have to deal with today. When our food sources come into question, we have to be diligent all the time. I think more time should be taken in the classroom to make sure that happens.” He urges schools to continue rigorous instruction that ensures that high standards are continually being met. An industry-driven approach to training new entrants is especially important at a time when restaurants are frenzied for qualified help. “The phone is ringing off the hook,” says Minichiello. Fortunately, that call is being heard by fresh talent who are imaginative, passionate, and ready to take on the demands of the field. Katie Sanders, a 2004 graduate of the Art Institute, feels privileged to continue her education as a tournant at Aurora Bistro. “It’s such a humbling experience as you come out of culinary school convinced that you can take on the world. Then, on the first day of the job, all you do is make mistakes. I’m so fortunate to be working with a chef like Jeff [Van Geest] who’s willing to let us really learn and experience things.” The learning post-school may be tough but this new generation of cooks is more than willing to face the brutal, but very real joys of the job.

of production them tons of home. We’re nstead of just even the stuthis big ma-

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Tracey Kusiewicz

a 2004 stitute at

Vancouver Island Culinary Institutions Dish It Out by Su Grimmer The three accredited culinary institutions on Vancouver Island can dish it out, and have been serving up world-class chefs for over 45 years. n the case of Vancouver Island University’s Culinary Arts Institute (formerly Malaspina University College, their culinary program started in 1964 when they were a small vocational college. It has grown to a student complement of 90 per year (2007) at their Nanaimo campus, plus 12 more students at their satellite campuses in Mill Bay and Powell River. Debbie Shore, the Chair and Head Instructor of the program (herself a graduate of the school), believes the university’s points of differentiation stem from a curriculum philosophy that starts with a foundation in the basics and then focuses on culinary trends and “ahead of the wave” kitchen thinking and learning. The facilities at the school run from stateof-the-art to other areas within the main complex that show the patina of use. Their main kitchen is over 30 years old but it is a true work-horse of learning. The food lab however is only 7 years old and would make Inspector Gadget smile from ear-to-ear. The teacher-student ratio is tight at 18 to one with a many of the 6 full-time teachers

I

having been with the university for years. One of the most notable places to dine in the city of Nanaimo is the “student-operated” Discovery Dining Room at the university. Here the culinary students not only plan and execute the upscale meals, the serving staff are students as well. The institute prides itself on having launched the careers of a number of notable “rock-star” chefs, as well as alumni working around the world in some of the most prestigious restaurants, resorts and culinary institution in the world. Victoria’s Camosun College Culinary Arts program started in 1973. Headed for years by Erik Andersen, who retired in May 2008, the reins have been handed to Gilbert Noussitou, who joined the college in 1987. Here a full-house means up to 65 students taking various levels of training from their Level 1, 2 or 3 and some, in their third year, working towards their full-ticket once they have complete 6000 hours of apprenticeship training. Training here is based on good technique, discipline and work ethic. Students get a solid foundation in all aspects of working on “the line” in a kitchen, as well as areas of specialization, comprehensive food prep, all the way up the line to food costing and staff management. The Classroom Restaurant on campus provides hands-on learning as the students cook for over 300 at lunch and 40 for dinner, five days a week. Camosun applauds its students with having won 5 Canadian championships and one world championship. They too have famous alumni now working in starred Michelin restaurants abroad and five star restaurants right here in B.C. North Island College’s Culinary Arts program is run out of their two campuses in Campbell River and Port Alberni. Because the population base in both cities does not allow for a stand-alone college, facilities are housed within the local high schools, as is the case with some of Camosun satellite campuses. The program is headed by Chris Hansen, a Chef/Instructor who has been with the college since 1997. Culinary training has been offered since 1989 and will take a student from entry levels basics right up to their Red Seal Level 3. Here the total student body is small at 36 per semester with a student teacher ratio of 12 to one. The college has an extensive coop program which integrates students into real-life kitchen environments early on in the program. Hansen feels their unique attribute is one of getting their students into the field early, be that via their co-op program or allowing students to learn at school and work-in-thefield and rotate this study methodology until graduation. Many students leave the college with a very seasoned portfolio which allows them to move into fulltime work with a minimum of adjustment.

www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

27

CULINARY TRAVEL

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Comox Valley

EAT meanders the back roads, the towns and the farms to find out what’s on the menu in BC’s newest food destination. he Comox Valley has one of the most idyllic locations in BC. To the east are the waters of the Strait of Georgia, to the west climbs Mountain Washington and the rugged Beaufort Range Park. The valley itself is a growing destination for chefs, farmers and food lover’s. From the sea, mountain and valley comes some of the finest products—and local chefs are utilizing them to fashion a definitive regional cuisine style. Only a few hours up from Victoria, the Island Highway widens and forest and mountain takes over as you leave the more populous south. The Comox Valley is a self-contained area that has become a popular holiday and retirement destination. But newcomers interested in culinary pursuits are also arriving, fleeing the high real estate prices of the big city, looking for opportunities and new beginnings. Here, chefs and Pacific Halibut, honey, sesame beurre farmers are enterprising entrepreneurs as they blanc, yam tempura w/ asian vegetables develop businesses that support local agricul- at Avenue Bistro in Comox ture and contribute to a developing restaurant scene. The Comox Valley has a long history of agricultural production dating back to 1860’s. With 20,000 hectares of land within the Agricultural Land Reserve, approximately half of which is currently used for agriculture production, the Valley had 445 farms at last count. Twenty-one different types of vegetable crops were identified as well as over 15 types of livestock. This illustrates not only the diverse mix of farm activities and intensity that typifies agriculture in the Comox Valley, but the Trent McIntyre and Sandra Viney importance of farming to the local economy. By any gauge, this forms an excellent basis upon which to build a local food scene. Visiting the region you will encounter small farms, vineyards, many owner-operated restaurants and cafes and a thriving farmer’s market. For recreation, Mount Washington has its year-round alpine activities, the shore plenty of beaches and three towns of Courtenay, Comox and Cumberland are worth a walk-about. With plenty of bed & breakfast inns and resorts spread out around the valley finding a play to stay is easy.

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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

What inspires you here in the Comox Valley? TM & SV: Our Farmers Market, our local producers and the passion that drives them. What one thing does the Valley need to do to achieve its true potential? TM & SV: We need to embrace the integrity behind the locally sourced and produced menu items. No restaurant will survive without the community’s loyalty and support.

Tracey Kusiewicz

What is your vision for the culinary future of the Comox Valley? Trent McIntyre & Sandra Viney: By embracing our local purveyors' we all work towards lessening our footprints. As more Comox Valley restaurants showcase our local farmers and purveyors on their menu, we highlight the bounty they offer while establishing the Valley as "the land of plenty".

Tracey Kusiewicz

Tracey Kusiewicz

Courtenay Courtenay’s downtown core has a charming small town feel and the restaurants we like can all be found in this area. Our first stop is Atlas Cafe (250-6th Street, Courtenay), open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Chef Trent McIntyre and his partner Sandra Viney have

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created an institution in the region. The tone (decor, attitude, food) is trendy yet comfortable. The service has always been exemplary. And the food circles the globe touching down in Asia, the mediterranean and the Pacific Northwest. Look for well-prepared caipirihnas cocktails, roast lamb with rosemary and beef rib-eye with wild chanterelles. Vegetables are treated with respect. International wine list. This is our go-to place for exciting and reliable international cooking. Up the street look for the inviting, distinctive yellow house and Tita’s Mexican Restaurant (536-6th St., Courtenay). This is the place for the bold flavours of the south. Owners, Lisa and Martin Metz are a Slow Fooders and believe in building lasting relationships with nearby fishers and farmers. Their menu is built on both local organic ingredients and exotic Mexican products. If you like molé, Tita’s con Pollo version is made with local

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Tita’s Mexican Restaurant partner & general manager Heather Standish with ceviche Raincoast Farms chicken, four different types of chile, spices, nuts, seeds and chocolate. There’s also a full selection of tapas and organic corn tortillas and green rice and hand pulled flour tortillas. A recent crowd-pleaser is Lisa’s Tuna Ceviche with fresh lime and jalapenos. A few streets over and to the south is Locals (see review at the end of this story), owned and operated by Chef Ronald St. Pierre, who cooked previously at Kingfisher Lodge. While in Courtenay (between meals?) there are plenty of food-related shop stops. Take a walk along Fifth—its jam-packed with inviting stores. ‘Beyond the Kitchen Door’ (274B 5th St., Courtenay) is the area’s number one gourmet kitchen store. Owner Sue Smith stocks everything the home chef could want as well as some prime local products such as premium-quality, troll-caught BC albacore tuna from the Estevan Tuna Company. Sue is also one of the main organizers of the Alpine Food & Wine Festival held in September on Mount Washington to showcase local products and chefs. If you’re lucky, you might in town when one the BTKD’s superb cooking classes is taking place. You might be able to sit in with cookbook authors Eric Akis or Karen Barnaby. Check our their website at www.beyondthekitchendoor.com. A few doors up at Cakebread Artisan Bakery (368 Fifth St., Courtenay) gateaux is the focus and the bevy of beautiful cakes will draw you inside. You’ll also find breads and a selection of chocolates made by Hot Chocolates. Continue along Fifth and over to James and Angeline Street’s Bramble Market (250-702 -3980 www.bramblesmarket.ca) where you’ll find the province’s first all-BC grocery store. Before heading around the bay to Courtenay’s twin city of Comox, take a detour to the historic village of Cumberland. Once a thriving coal town, the streets are now lined with shops. Chef Nicola Cuhna and her partner in The Great Escape, Jean-Francois Larche, are symptomatic of what is happening in this former mining boom town. Chef Nicola draws her inspiration from the cooking of Gujarat (Northwestern India), Karnataka (Southwest), and Goa. This is lighter fare than Punjabi and Bengali-based cuisine. She also pays homage to the modernizing influence of Vancouver's Vij. This is evident in the lightness and the combination of flavours and colours. Intense little chicken samosas are served with in-house plum chutney, Papadam Cigars, a kind of "Indian spring roll" come with tamarind chutney, and Masala Wadas, subtly flavoured lentil patties are served with in-house organic pumpkin chutney. These were accompanied by Chef Nicola's special variation on naan - a moist flat bread rich with flavour.

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

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Main course Pathrade, a G served in a cl clove, ginger, buoyant and sauce.

monday to wednesday Great food is not reserved for weekends and special occasions. Celebrate food seaside at Haro’s with our new Table d’hôte menus.

2 course dinner 3 course dinner

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‘Tis the season to impress...

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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

Find delicious Woolwich Dairy goat cheese products in the deli area of your local grocery store.

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Main courses we ate were smoked local lingcod cakes in a fenugreek-fennel curry; Pathrade, a Gujarati specialty of spinach, ground rice, and lentils, steamed and sliced, served in a clinging coconut-tamarind curry; and a pork vindaloo flavoured with cinnamon, clove, ginger, and chilies. For dessert try sharing the cardamom studded marshmallow – a buoyant and chewy concoction – and the chocolate patÊ drizzled with red wine and pear sauce. Comox The town of Comox (pop.12,000) has plenty of well-regarded eateries and pubs. Your first stop heading in is Avenue Bistro (2064 Comox Ave), the newest restaurant from the owners of Atlas Bistro. Like Atlas it has a world view menu that sources local produce but it more casual and features a lounge and an extensive small plates menu. Dishes like Tannadice Farm Pork Spring Rolls, local Albacore Tuna Togarashi with Wasabi Aioli delineate that commitment. Fans of Chef Andrew Stigant, formerly of the Hotel Grand Pacific in Victoria will glad happy to see he has turned up again at new kid on the block Anderton Bistro (649 Anderton Rd, Comox). The menu is long on local featuring Dungeness Crab & Spot Prawn Bisque, Merville Farms Gathered Field Greens & Herb Salad, Natural Pastures Comox Brie Stuffed Hecate Strait Halibut (an Oceanwise approved fish) among many other enticing dishes. Close in to the ocean the patio and garden at Martine’s Bistro (1754 Beaufort Ave., Comox) with their view of Comox Bay and the Beaufort Range are as welcoming as the aromas inside. Appetizers include Dungeness crab cakes with roasted red pepper aioli and Steamed fresh Mussels, Belgian style, in a leek, white wine cream sauce. Mains offer Seared Albacore tuna, curry mango aioli and fresh seasonal greens with house vinaigrette and Crown of Pork, fresh Cherry Madeira sauce, Garlic mashed potatoes and fresh seasonal vegetables. Further along Comox Avenue you’ll come to Thyme on the Ocean (832 Comox Ave., Comox), a restaurant that’s been receiving top reviews for its attention to detail and high standards. Emil Shelborn and his partner (in life and in the kitchen) Nah Yoon Kim sources ingredients from local producers and change menus with the seasons. Look for plates like grilled flank steak cooked rare, sliced thin and then layered with thick slices of dense wild matsutake (pine) mushrooms, oven roasted tomatoes, and local water buffalo mozzarella. Island wines from Venturi-Schultz and Chalet Estate are a feature. For good, inventive pub fare try the Blackfin Pub (132 Port Augusta St., Comox) overlooking the harbour. You’ll find oven-baked Queen Charlotte Island halibut with Thai sauce, breaded

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hans peter meyer

EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

Locals' chef Pierre, with sous chef Br produce.

won’t do brea Locals’ offe with a high “c Cortes Island of the ocean. For our mai preserved bla sauce. My fri lic, my potato it.” And it was come through I was impre they were big hot spicy foo for fruity/tart Ordering d Chocolate Ch late delivered

NEW RESTAURANT REPORT Avenue Bistro | 2064 Comox Ave, Comox | 250-890-9200 | www.avenuebistro.ca s the sister ship to the region’s standardsetting Atlas Café in Courtenay, expectations about Avenue Bistro in Comox have been high. Consistency of food quality and excellent service are what I expect from the crew working for owners Trent McIntyre and Sandra Viney. The staff at Avenue is younger than at Atlas and Chef Aaron Rail (formerly with Victoria’s Café Brio and The Marina) has only recently taken the helm. Recent dining experiences, however, indicate that Avenue is keepCarmen & Glenn Wakeling ing to Atlas’s high standards. Wait staff were knowlat Eatmore Spouts edgeable about the menu and helpful with appropriate wine choices. Manager Torrie Howlett was for a long time my favourite bartender, and the bar at Avenue is a nice place to hang out when in Comox. An appetizer of local albacore tuna, pan seared but deliciously pink and rare in the centre, was laid on a colourful bed of mixed greens, avocado, dressed in a slightly sweet-hot chipotle maple vinaigrette. For our mains our server hit the mark with the suggestion of the halibut curry. My date noted the tangy curry sauce was subtle and gentle enough not to overpower the delicacy of the halibut; crispy spicy yams complemented the fish’s softness; and a melange of temperatures—cold carrots, hot yams and halibut—deepened the gustatory experience. My choice was a generous plate of beef ribs, delicately flavoured with a bourbon-chipotle braise. Our server again came up trumps by suggesting the Quail’s Gate 2006 Pinot Noir. It had enough body to stand up to the ribs, but not so much that it overpowered the halibut. With such a strong start, the much lighter finish was a pleasant, even welcome sensation. We decided to split the sticky date pudding. As my date cooed, between spoonfuls, “mmm… sticky gooey yummy…homey good.” A perfect match for the glass of rich, carmely Penfolds Grandfather Port I was enjoying. —by Hans Peter Meyer

Tracey Kusiewicz

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250.598.9736

Tracey Kusiewicz

Blueberry Cottage blueberrycottage.ca Kingfisher Inn & Spa kingfisherspa.com Mount Washington Alpine Resort mountwashington.ca

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2583 Cadboro Bay Rd., Victoria

Tracey Kusiewicz

Lunch Dinner Tapas

and lightly fried Fanny Bay oysters and Jack Daniels infused baby back ribs. Moving out to the surrounding area, if you are fortunate to be here during market season you must visit the Comox Valley Farmers Market (Saturday morning on Headquarters Rd.). Everything sold must come from the region and with over 80 vendors this is one of the best markets in BC. With its long agricultural history farming is still an important part of the local economy. Look for Lijen & Sherlene Hua’s Hazelmere Farms Certified organic produce. They grow fresh wasabi, figs, salad mix, oriental greens, fresh soybeans, fava beans, garlic, onions, burdock and they also make kimchi and various pickles. Another valley success story is 18-year old Eatmore Sprouts (2604 Grieve Rd., Courtenay). They grow a huge variety of sprouts and greens including alfalfa, clover mung bean, corn shoots, pea shoots, wheatgrass & microgreens along with spinach, salad mix, edible flowers, parsley, swiss chard, mustard Lijen & Sherlene Hua at Hazelmere Farms greens, kale, tamarillos, lavender and shisho. Unique to the Island is the Island Bison Ranch operated by Delton and Karen Henrich. Their bison are grass-fed and free-range and produce meat that has a full, rich and dense flavour. Beaver Meadow Farms, home to Natural Pastures Cheese, was started in the 1930s, comprises 600 acres and is a designated Heritage Dairy Farm ( meets animal welfare, biodiversity, and environmental enhancement standards). Natural Pastures’ cheesemaker Paul Sutter ACCOMMODATIONS

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Locals | 368 - 8th St. | Courtenay | 250.338.6493

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alking into Locals is to walk into an inviting celebration of food grown and prepared in the greater Comox Valley region. Soft greens—linens, accents— mix with photographs of produce and producers, the accompanying text detailing the wealth of gastronomic delights. Chef Ronald St. Pierre, well-known in the area for his ability to please the palate, has launched Locals as a kind of flagship for the “unique terroir, the distinct flavour of the soil coming through in the food that is produced here.” Our pleasures of the palate started as soon Locals' chef and owner Ronald St. as we were seated. A basket of herbed whole Pierre, with his wife Tricia St. Pierre, wheat bread arrived, with a chickpea and sous chef Brian McCormick, and local roasted red pepper spread. Wholesome and produce. flavourful. My dinner date was impressed. “I won’t do bread and butter, but I’ll do this.” Locals’ offerings lean towards west coast/modern, all of it sourced from the region, and with a high “comfort” factor. We started with the Island Bison carpaccio and a half dozen Cortes Island oysters. The oysters were small, delicate, refreshing - with a delightful tang of the ocean. For our main courses we had the pan fried halibut, dressed in sesame seeds, cilantro, and preserved black bean and garlic sauce and the scallops in a Thai green curry and coconut sauce. My friend was thrilled with her meal. “I’ve got everything I want—my fish, my garlic, my potatoes, my vegetables roasted with still a bit of crunch. Perfect! Just the way I like it.” And it was “comforting,” she said, the sauce light enough to let the subtleties of the fish come through. I was impressed by the size and texture of the scallops, probably my favourite seafood: they were big enough that I had to quarter them, yet still tender. And while I’m a big fan of hot spicy food, I appreciated the mild, slightly sweet curry treatment that traded the burn for fruity/tart tastes. Ordering dessert was purely an exercise in excess. So we decided to share the Vegan Chocolate Cheesecake. Not too sweet and without any heaviness, this dense slab of chocolate delivered a full ganache-type experience. —by Hans Peter Meyer

An Introduction to Induction Cooking n an age of energy efficiency, induction cooking is turning the world of frying, boiling, and simmering upside down. Peter Penna of Penna & Co. calls it "the opposite of any cooking we have ever known." It works like this: an induction cooker contains a coil made of magnetic material. When a current passes through the coil, a magnetic field is produced. When a pot is placed on the cooker, the magnetic field transfers the current of energy to the pot, thus the pot itself and not the cooker heats up. Make sense? If not, just know this: there's no flame, no electric element creating heat to warm a pot, so less energy is lost in the process. And the chances of burning oneself are much less as the induction cooktop needs a pot to transfer the heat to; it cools immediately after cookware is removed. Waring makes an energy-saving Induction Cooktop ICT100. Penna explains that only cookware that is magnetic works with induction cooking, (so no glass, ceramic, or aluminum) but fortunately, most quality pots and pans are magnetic anyway. —K.Z. PENNA & CO. 777 Royal Oak Dr, Victoria, 250.727.2110 WARING www.waringproducts.com

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www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

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100 MILE H Take the CHRISTMAS Challenge.

Cook the Big One using ingredients grown close to home

Rebecca Wellman

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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

PHOTOS

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PHOTOS THIS PAGE BY GARY HYNES

Local

Blackberry Wine Poached Pears

Kitchen a celebration of the season. In fact, it was probably more like the 10-mile holiday once writer and “locavore” Karen Platt was finished sourcing—and cooking—her Christmas feast. t used to hit around the first week in November. Standing in the organic produce section of the grocery store, I would stare blindly at the bins of BC Hothouse tomatoes imported from Mexico, the stacks of polished New Zealand apples, the heads of romaine, red and green leaf lettuce and mounds of carrots, broccoli and green onion, all courtesy of California’s ubiquitous Earthbound Farms. It was a sobering realization; market season was truly over and fresh local produce had become as hard to find as a flavourful Chinese peach. I admit I’m a bit fanatical when it comes to local eating, so when the last market folds up its tables, I actually go through a period of grieving. How is it possible, I’ve mourned, that such abundance can simply disappear overnight—especially as we approach the season of feasting, friends and family? It has posed an ongoing quandary for me; the holidays, rich in excess, have been singularly devoid of the local produce we love. Surely everything doesn’t simply stop growing, bemoans my inner urbanite, who takes a much less realistic slant on these things than I care to admit. After all, we are in a relatively temperate climate. But every year, that’s just what seemed to happen. One fine October weekend, an abundant display of fall produce decorates eight-foot tables covering the asphalt at our local elementary school; the next, not even a stray beet rolls through the empty parking lot. Closed. See You Next Year. And year after year, my heart (and stomach) weep. Then last year, as I returned from an appointment one grey November morning, I drove past the stand at Madrona Farm on Blenkinsop Road. I glanced at the sign as it went by my window. Open. Wed – Sat, 11-2. Hopeful, but pragmatic, and only expecting to see a few scraggly bits of kale, I hung a U-turn, pulled into the driveway and

I

got in line behind four people who obviously knew something I didn’t. The stand itself was full—carrots, broccoli, greens, Brussels sprouts, beets, garlic, dark green spears of Lacinato kale and more—a cornucopia of beautiful vegetables spilling over the edge. Produce nirvana. Eggs, too. The stand would be open right through Christmas, and beyond, said farmer David Chambers. In fact, he continued, despite a deliberate lack of greenhouses on site, there would be fresh produce available at Madrona Farm all year long. “We grow things year round,” Chambers told me as I bit into the sweetest, carrot-iest carrot that had ever crossed my lips, “by understanding and utilizing the windows of opportunity that open up for planting every season. We don’t need greenhouses to do that.” It would appear from the variety of produce before me that Chambers has certainly developed a keen sense of timing and a highly successful partnership with Gaia. Suddenly, the grey, meagre West Coast winter became a whole lot brighter and richer. I drove away—wallet only marginally emptier considering the fullness of my heart and bags. As I contemplated what I would cook that night with my unexpected windfall, it struck me; the availability of this produce meant I could provide the BIG holiday meal and do it all locally. I could have my 10-mile turkey with all the trimmings, and eat it too. How better to celebrate the holidays and our good fortune at living in such a beautiful, bountiful part of the world than with a holiday feast made from regional abundance. This would be my challenge to myself—perhaps not as ambitious as a year of 100-mile eating or daily sex with my husband of many years—but a challenge nonetheless. I may not end up with a bestseller out of it, but I would reap tremendous satisfaction and prove a point to the sceptics sharing my holiday table. You see, I live with a Christmas purist; this meal couldn’t stray too far

from the traditional feast in pursuit of the higher ideals of food security and supporting local agriculture. His side of the family—all 14 of them invited to share my table— will only indulge my somewhat sanctimonious locavore tendencies so far without griping. Then again, I’d bet that none of them thought it was possible to eat locally, in Victoria, right through the winter. Who had? The thing is, once I began to wrap my mind around the challenge, I realized just how easy it would be to maintain my principles and still create a holiday feast my family would love and their ancestors would approve of. Here on Vancouver Island and throughout B.C., the market for local has never been better and producers of all types are literally stepping up to our plates. I could—and would— cover every aspect of the meal without straying far from home. I would satisfy both the traditionalists and the environmentalists. And really, with the exception of the turkey I had pre-ordered from Ireland Farm, I didn’t even have to plan that far in advance. From appetizers to dessert, I sought out the best of the area. My goal was to stay as close to my postal code as possible and see what I could find. Needless to say, once I began dissecting the dinner into its elements, the project took on a whole different dimension. I’d not only need the big elements—turkey, vegetables, potatoes—but the flour for bread and pastry, the butter and eggs, nuts, cheese, fruit, wine and herbs. In the end, the most remarkable thing about creating a local holiday feast— aside from the tastes—is just how simple it is to do. Everything you need can be found right in our own backyard. We thought you might be interested in trying a regional holiday spread too. We’ve included information on everything you might need—plus some great recipes. RECIPES ON OVERLEAF

PHOTOS 36

EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

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Brussels Sprouts with Warm Apple Vinaigrette Garlicky Creamed Winter Greens Beet & Winter Root Cellar Gratin Green Salad with Truffled Goat Cheese Dressing

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PHOTOS THIS PAGE BY REBECCA WELLMAN www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

37

Beet & Winter Green Salad with Truffled Goat Cheese Dressing

100-Mile Dinner Menu

David Woods’ truffled goat cheese is extremely decadent. Use the aromatic truffle topping for the dressing, then crumble the snow-white cheese over the salad. It’s a glorious match with roasted beets. Serves 8 to 10

Velvety Parsnip Bisque* ~ Roast Turkey** ~ Beet & Winter Green Salad with Truffled Goat Cheese Dressing ~ Brussels Sprouts with Warm Apple Vinaigrette ~ Root Cellar Gratin ~ Garlicky Creamed Winter Greens ~ Blackberry Wine Poached Pears

David Wood’s creamy truffled goat cheese, 1 Red wine vinegar, 2 tbsp Dried tarragon, 1/4 tsp Sea salt, 1/4 tsp Olive or vegetable oil, 1/4 cup Ruby beets, 4 Daikon, 2-inch piece Spicy Winter Greens, 8 to 10 cups For the dressing, scoop the truffled topping from the goat cheese and place in a blender. Add vinegar, tarragon and salt. Whirl to mix, then add oil. Whirl until oil is completely mixed in. Wrap unpeeled beets in a foil package and roast in 400F oven until tender. Start checking for doneness after 45 min. Cool, then peel. Slice into thin wedges. Spoon 1 tbsp dressing over beets. Using a mandolin, shave daikon into 8 to 10 thin rounds, then cut into thin strips. Place in a large bowl and add greens. Pour in just enough dressing to lightly coat. Crumble goat cheese overtop. MAKE AHEAD Prepare and refrigerate dressing up to 5 days. Prepare beets and daikon 1 day ahead.

Brussels Sprouts with Warm Apple Vinaigrette

RECIPES & FOOD STYLING BY JENNIFER DANTER

You either like ‘em or hate ‘em but it’s just not Christmas without them. Matched with a comforting applesauce dressing and tart cranberries, you’ll find that even the most staunch sprout loathers ask for seconds of these. Serves 8 to 10

*Note: The bisque recipe can be found on our website at www.eatmagazine.ca. **We didn’t provide a turkey recipe as we figured you’d probably have your own. Or, find one here: www.chatelaine.com

Apple, such as Gravenstein, Empire or Macintosh, 1 Butter, 2 tbsp Sunset Bay Honey, 2 tbsp Vegetable oil, 1/4 cup Sea Cider Apple Vinegar or Cider Vinegar, 2 tbsp Brussels Sprouts, 2lbs Bacon, 2 strips Cranberries, 1/3 cup Peel and core apple, then coarsely chop. Pan fry in butter and drizzle with honey. Add a splash of water and cook until apples are very soft. Place in a blender and add oil and vinegar. Blitz to evenly mix. Dressing will be thick. Trim outer leaves from sprouts. Cut large sprouts into quarters and smaller ones in halves. Blanche in boiling water, then drain. Pan fry bacon until crisp, then remove to paper towels. Pour fat into a large wide saucepan or Dutch oven and and set over medium-high heat. Add sprouts, a pinch of salt and about 1/4 cup water. Stir often until tender-crisp, 4 to 6 min. Pour in apple dressing and cranberries. Stir until heated through, 1 to 2 min. Spoon into a serving bowl and crumble bacon overtop. MAKE AHEAD Prepare apple dressing and refrigerate up to 5 days. Blanche sprouts and immediately cool in an ice bath. Refrigerate overnight. Cook bacon a few hours before using.

Root Cellar Gratin This is the best way to get all those good winter veggies into one dish instead of making lots of sides. Think scalloped potatoes meet the root cellar - carrots, turnips and rutabagas – they all go well together. A mandolin is necessary to slice them paper thin so everything cooks at the same time. Another bonus: these don’t have to be piping hot. In fact, they

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taste best warm verging on room temperature. Serves 10 to 12 Avalon Whipping Cream, 2 cups Fresh thyme, tied with kitchen string, 1 bunch David Wood’s Montana cheese, grated, 1 cup Sea Salt, 11/2 tsp Freshly grated nutmeg, 1/2 tsp Freshly ground black pepper, 1/4 tsp Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled, 2 large Carrots, peeled, 2 to 3 large Rutabaga, peeled, 1/2 large Turnip, peeled, 2 medium Bring cream to a boil. Add thyme and simmer for a few minutes to infuse flavour, then remove from heat. Mix together 3/4 cup cheese, salt, nutmeg and pepper. Butter a 9X13-inch casserole dish or line with parchment. Using a mandolin (neccessary for very thin slicing), thinly slice potatoes. Arrange in layers in pan and sprinkle with seasoning mix between each. Thinly shave carrots, then layer over potatoes and sprinkle with seasoning. Don’t worry about neatly layering them – just sprinkle overtop as evenly as possible. Continue slicing and layering with rutabaga, then turnip and sprinkle seasoning mix between each. Press down to lightly pack. Pour cream overtop and sprinkle with remaining cheese. Cover with a piece of buttered parchment, then seal pan tightly with foil. Bake in 400F oven for 45 min. Uncover and continue to bake until golden and bubbly, 15 to 20 more min. Let stand at least 20 minutes before serving. MAKE AHEAD Assemble gratin. Drizzle 1/2 cup more cream overtop to ensure all veggies are covered. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Bring to room temperature before baking.

EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

Garlicky Creamed Winter Greens This is a new take on classic creamed spinach but with winter kale and chard. Go for extreme green and finish the dish with a handful of fresh tatsoi. Serves 8 to 10

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Kale, 2 large bunches Swiss Chard, 2 large bunches Avalon organic butter, 3 tbsp Garlic cloves, minced, 5 Shallots, minced, 2 All-purpose flour, 3 tbsp Avalon organic homogenized milk, 11/2 cups Chili flakes, 1/4 tsp Fresh tatsoi, 1 cup Cut out coarse stems from kale and chard. Coarsely chop leaves. Working in batches, quick cook greens in a little water in a frying pan just until they turn bright green and start to wilt. Remove as done to a baking sheet. Refrigerate immediately to keep colour bright. When cool, gently squeeze out excess moisture. Set aside. In a large saucepan, melt butter and add garlic and shallots. Cook until translucent, then stir in flour. Gradually whisk in milk, whisking out any lumps before adding more milk. Add chili flakes and simmer for 5 min., then stir in wilted greens. Add more milk to thin out, if necessary. Turn into a serving bowl. Garnish with fresh tsatoi leaves. MAKE AHEAD Prepare kale and chard. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Same with sauce. To assemble, reheat sauce. You will need to add more milk to thin it out. Gently warm greens in a large wide saucepan with a little water. Stir in sauce.

Blackberry Wine Poached Pears While I love Christmas pudding and all the buttery holiday cookies and treats, I feel so stuffed at the end of the turkey feast, that I really just crave fruit and cheese. Pears poached in local blackberry wine make an elegant ending and are divine paired with a sliver of Hillary’s blue cheese and local hazelnuts. Cowichan Valley Blackberry Dessert Wine, 375 mL bottle Dry red wine, something local, 1 cup Granulated sugar, 1 cup Whole cloves, 2 Orange, 1 Pears, such as Bartlett or Anjou, 5 Hillary’s Yoo Boo Blue cheese, 5 thick slices Toasted and skinned hazelnuts, coarsely chopped, 1/2 cup Fresh mint In a large wide saucepan or Dutch oven, combine blackberry wine with red wine, sugar and cloves. Using a vegetable peeler, scrape 2 large strips of peel from orange and add. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, stirring often, until sugar is dissolved, 2 to 3 min. Peel and slice pears in half lengthwise. Scoop out and discard cores. Add pears to wine mixture and simmer, turning occasionally until pears are tender. Start checking for doneness after 30 min. Depending on their size and ripeness they may need 10 to 20 more min. Pears are done when you can easily insert a knife into fruit. Carefully spoon out pears and place in a large bowl. Boil sauce a few minutes until it’s syrupy. Pour over pears and let cool completely. Best served at room temperature with a wedge of cheese, a small handful of hazelnuts and torn mint leaves. MAKE AHEAD Cook pears and keep in sauce. Refrigerate overnight. Bring to room temperature before serving.

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The Italian Bakery Turns 30 I

t's been thirty years since the Pozzolo family opened the doors of the Italian Bakery in Victoria. And fifteen years since Michele Pozzolo’s son Alberto, present owner and manager, first came to work at his dad's elbow. Walk through these doors today and that singular essence of Italian pastries and bread floods your senses. “My grandfather’s dad,” Alberto tells me over a cup of coffee in the bakery, “paid for his son to go to Torino so he could learn pastry-making. And this,” he says, gesturing around us, “is where it got us.” The recipes Alberto’s grandfather learned have passed their way, for eighty-seven years, along a family tree whose roots began in 1921 with the thriving Pasticceria Piana of Torino, Italy where Alberto’s father helped (at his father-in-law’s elbow) when he could — he was at the same time, earning a Doctorate in pharmacy. In 1978 the Pozzolos moved to Victoria and opened the Italian Bakery. Alberto’s mother, while raising the children, instilled in them a passion for quality of work and taught them a history of the profession. The opening of their restaurant, La Piola, followed in 2002, offering fresh, local ingredients in the tradition of seasonal Italian cooking. The business remains a family operation; Alberto’s wife Janet works behind the counter seasonally and is responsible for the day to day accounting functions. Family members have pitched in and branched out into their own Italian eateries over the years. And the rewards of the original recipes, generations later, fill the bakery with the taste of tradition. 3103 QUADRA ST., VICTORIA, BC, 250-388-4557

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✦R I S T O R A N T E L A P I O L A ✦

“Best Wishes”

Cucina Tradizionale Gastronomia Moderna

“La Tradizione Continua”

RISTORANTE LA PIOLA Cucina Tradizionale Gastronomia Moderna.

Introducing La Piola's new Chef and Managing Partner Cory Pelan

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ne blackberry a vegetable nge and add. stirring often, slice pears in

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“Congratulazioni!” “Big Congratulations”

Cory is continuing a tradition of honest Italian cuisine celebrating the best the island has to offer. He is an active member of the Island Chef's Collaborative and an avid supporter of local farmers and businesses. La Piola makes all their pasta noodles by hand and the pizzas are authentic thin crust style. Cooks will also appreciate the Chef's Pantry which offers local and imported specialty foods. Open Tuesday thru Saturday for lunch and dinner. 3189 QUADRA ST. Next to the Italian Bakery. Phone 250-388-4517

www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

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Slow Food Nation

A weekend of slow food in America’s favourite culinary city. Could it be done here? By Mara Jernigan

his year’s Slow Food Nation, held on Labour Day weekend in the heart of San Francisco, was touted as America’s biggest food event in history. Sixty thousand attendees listened, learned, tasted, sipped and swirled their way through San Francisco’s Civic Center and Fort Mason Exhibition Hall experiencing American artisan foods that embody Slow Food’s mantra of “good, clean and fair.” The event was inspired by Slow Food’s two signature international events, Salone del Gusto, or Great Hall of Taste, and Terra Madre, which each bring together more than 5,000 food producers, chefs, educators and youth from around the world, bundled into individual food communities. Slow Food Nation tried to combine the best of both of those events, with an all-inclusive mandate that involved farmers, eaters, restaurants, policy-makers and intellects [[intellectuals?]]. The night before I left to attend the event, I had stayed up until 1 a.m. reducing and canning tomato puree with the head of Slow Food France, spurred on by my annual harvest-season, guilt-ridden panic. Fifty pounds of very ripe certified organic local tomatoes yielded five, onequart Mason jars of concentrated tomato “passata” at a cost of more than $100, not including our labour. Was this too much work for such a small amount of product? I kept thinking about my tomatoes over the course of the weekend. Preserved and fermented foods of all kinds were featured in many beautifully designed displays at Slow Food Nations’ Taste Pavilion. A return to preserving food is the kind of action Slow Food is trying to encourage. “Jam and pickle making has gone from a necessity, to an activity of the poor, to a hobby of the rich and educated,” states Anya Fernald, executive director of Slow Food Nation. The former program director for the Slow Food Foundation established its International Presidia project between 2002 and 2004. “One of the ideas this event is trying to promote is that small life changes can make a difference. If we could get just 10 percent of the public spending 10 minutes more a day thinking about their food, that would be great. We can all do something simple, cook a family meal from scratch, pack a lunch, make a vinaigrette.” Fernald continues, “The high price of food is a political problem in America. If a politician wants to appeal to the common person in the U.S., he will have his picture taken eating at McDonald’s. We want to re-dignify food and bring it back as the cultural institution it is meant to be by letting people know that preparing and eating food can be joyous and celebratory.” Indeed, the Italian-based Slow Food has had to make some cultural adjustments to adapt to North America because the universal “Right to Pleasure” is seen in a different way in AngloSaxon cultures. As well, Slow Food USA has repeatedly been accused of being an elitist, predominantly white, upper-class organization while working to address issues of food security, obesity and taste education. Slow Food vice-president Alice Waters of Chez Panisse fame has made school gardens a major Slow Food initiative. Students from the Slow Food University of Gastronomic Sciences in Pollenzo, Italy, have started a worldwide Slow Food Youth Movement, and former president of Slow Food USA Michael Dimock, now president of the nonprofit Roots of Change, has worked with Slow Food to promote a Declaration for Healthy Food and Agriculture, a document unveiled in the Rotunda of San Francisco City Hall on the eve of Slow Food Nation and signed by thousands during the event. In this country, Slow Food Canada is working on many of the same issues its American counterpart is working on, with several differences. The U.S. membership, now well over 10,000, is roughly tenfold that of the Canadian organization. For close to 10 years, the Americans have had a head office in New York, staff and funding for several projects including the U.S. Ark of Taste, as well as the support of several celebrity food activists like Waters and bestselling author of The Omnivore’s Dilemma Michael Pollen. Slow Food Nation was the “coming out” party for Slow Food in America, and I was curious about how the weekend was organized, contemplating whether it might be possible to do a similar event in Canada one day. The event was well funded by a raft of sponsors from Saveur Magazine to natural foods giant Whole Foods. The products themselves were very carefully chosen by product “curators,” experts in their particular field of cheesemaking, bread or meats, for example. There were strict guidelines to meet the good, clean and fair criteria. Making sure products were source-verified; GMO-, antibiotic- and hormone-free; organic or transitional; and small-scale, artisanal were just part of the process. The event even had a social justice director. In response to the repeated criticism of Slow Food being elitist, Anya Fernald and the Slow Food Nation team worked hard to make sure the U.S. event was affordable. The $65 admission to the Taste Pavilion subsidized the free marketplace in the Civic Center. Local architects were partnered with pavilion curators to create displays using appropriate, reusable agricultural materials such as crates, canning jar lids and, in the case of the Native Foods Pavilion, native grasses and plants from the Bay area. Arguably, Slow Food Nation had something for everyone. Slow Food Rocks, an outdoor con-

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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

cert series, w to the Taste P ture Slow Fo kitchen dem and non-prof and dinner d known for us ents. I was d of speakers, world’s top th and Waters a tivist and au educator Ma writer and co and Slow Foo In a panel Food System speakers ser Eric Schlosse thor Raj Pate tivists defen workers righ very real pligh ers to the su belly of our fo Food and m been reluctan can farm wor ing grape ha heat exposur are some of t ican food sy Slow Food ha I learned that in Florida pro mercially gro chains, groc providers. Ex posure as we care and wor worst, there a ery, sexual e and rock bot picking two to price of my h seem so high Perhaps th Nation was t Square, locat cure region o site as San Fr tory Garden, cally suppor Gavin Newso trepiece for t with a varie drought-toler herbs and m nated food to both a comm post-event La the garden w ture, civic au remain until a Could such With three n belt, 36 conv newsletter p guages and a

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cert series, was held in a meadow adjacent to the Taste Pavilion. There were the signature Slow Food Taste workshops, green kitchen demonstrations, a day for policy and non-profit “changemakers,” free films and dinner dates in Bay area restaurants known for using local, sustainable ingredients. I was drawn to the impressive lineup of speakers, which included some of the world’s top thinkers in food, such as Pollen and Waters as well as environmental activist and author Vandana Shiva, nutrition educator Marion Nestle, award-winning writer and conservationist Wendell Berry and Slow Food’s founder Carlo Petrini. In a panel session entitled A New Fair Food System during the Food for Thought speakers series, Fast Food Nation author Eric Schlosser and Stuffed and Starved author Raj Patel were joined by several activists defending meat packers and farm workers rights. The session brought the very real plight of migrant agricultural workers to the surface. This is the dark underbelly of our food system and one that Slow Food and many other food groups have been reluctant to tackle. From illegal Mexican farm workers living under bridges during grape harvest in Napa to deaths from heat exposure in the Central Valley, these are some of the realities of the North American food system and until recently even Slow Food has not really talked about them. I learned that three large tomato companies in Florida produce virtually all of the commercially grown tomatoes for fast food chains, grocery stores and food service providers. Extreme heat and pesticide exposure as well as a lack of housing, healthcare and workers rights are the norm. At its worst, there are documented cases of slavery, sexual exploitation of female workers and rock bottom pay—as little as $50 for picking two tons of tomatoes. Suddenly the price of my home canned tomatoes did not seem so high. Perhaps the crowning glory of Slow Food Nation was the Victory Garden in the Civic Square, located in the heart of a food insecure region of the city. Planted in the same site as San Francisco’s post World War II Victory Garden, the project was enthusiastically supported by San Francisco mayor Gavin Newsom and was a magnificent centrepiece for the weekend’s events. Planted with a variety of heirloom vegetables, drought-tolerant and native plants, culinary herbs and more in early July, the site donated food to local food banks and hosted both a community day in August and the post-event Labour Day Youth Eat-In. While the garden was planted as a temporary feature, civic authorities have agreed to let it remain until at least November. Could such an event be held in Canada? With three national meetings under their belt, 36 convivia across Canada, a national newsletter published in both official languages and a national website, Slow Food

Canada is emerging as one of Canada’s largest and most important culinary organizations. But Slow Food Canada still does not have a National Association, head office or staff and at this point it is still an organization of volunteers scattered across a large, bilingual country. Financially they do not have the backing Slow Food USA and Slow Food International has developed. Support from regional or Provincial governments has tremendously benefited Slow Food in Italy and we have not yet seen that kind of governmental support for Slow Food or artisan food production in Canada, although the governments of Quebec and Alberta have assisted in sending small scale farmers to Terra Madre. Foundation funding and ethical commercial sponsors will be increasingly hard to come by, even in the U.S. So a large scale Slow Food event in Canada is probably at least a couple of years away. However, excellent regional Slow Food events continue to be held across Canada, including a new Slow Food Film Festival on Vancouver Island, cycling tours to farms in the lower mainland and in Whistler, school garden and taste education programs, and even canning workshops and heirloom tomato potlucks.

Good, Clean and Fair: The pick of the crop at Slow Food Nation. What was really Good: At a farmers’ market in the Civic Center I found Frog Hollow Farm peaches, Full Belly Farm melons and Cowgirl Creamery Red Hawk cheese. Over at Fort Mason, top artisan charcuterie producers Armandino Batalli (yes, that’s Mario’s Dad) and Paul Bertolli served up mortadella, culatello and other handmade specialty meat products. The entrance to the taste pavilion was flanked by a row of brick ovens pumping out a selection of artisan pizzas and Indian breads as well as a bread museum with an eight-foot snail made from ornate artisan loaves gathered from the nation’s best bakeries. What was really Clean: The Sustainable Wine Bar at the Fort Mason Center was a tasting area comprised of 450 wines from 40 different states, the country’s largest selection of organic and biodynamic wines. More than 12,000 attendees tasted raw milk from Organic Pastures Dairy in Fresno. Raw milk can now be legally sold in some states, including California. What was really Fair: In the Slow Food Nation Victory Garden, those on a budget could hear speakers for free at the Soapbox and buy an affordable snack from the Slow on the Go section featuring hand-ground organic corn tamales and tortillas from Primavera, organic fair trade iced coffee from microroasters Blue Bottle Coffee, Bi Rite Creamery Ice Cream and even 100 percent organic, grass-fed beef hot dogs from Let’s Be Frank.

Markus’ Wharfside Restaurant

Vancouver Island’s best kept secret (250) 642-3596 1831 Maple Ave. Sooke www.markuswharfsiderestaurant.com

Fairmont Empress Eat Mag Ad • Size: 4.375”(w) x 3.0”(h) • Final File • Sept 30/08

be a part of history

C

elebrate our

new year’s eve Join us in black tie or period costume attire for an unforgettable evening of festivity

For reservations, please contact 250-389-2727

Useful links: Declaration of Healthy Food and Agriculture www.fooddeclaration.org. Slow Food Nation website (as well as its extensive blog), www.slowfoodnation.org. Slow Food Canada (where you can link to your local convivium): www.slowfood.ca.

www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

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where he get and know wh Knowing you queasy.” Lee arrived ter evangelis ter Revolution oyster, you ha each time you And I’m not w While enth healthy food wholesale pr growers is low The solutio restaurants in fish once a m With that co The best time will find throu arrives with s ocean are jus been starving And the im flavour, you’v almost like ea an oyster spa Cec Robins fall oysters a cent. They ta In winter, R cumber taste Most of th Stranger’s Ba technical, Cra ference. The restaur and down the than just pick

The Oyster is Their World On Cortes Island, growers know that the beach, time of year, growing method, ocean temperature and food all affect that mighty mollusk, the oyster. by Tim Morris Quadra and Cortes joined others from Halifax, Toronto and California to gulp, slurp, eat and moan down some 5,000 oysters, 240 pounds of clams and 30 quarts of prawns. Cortes Island is a two-ferry trip east of Campbell River and home to some 900 residents year round. All told, about $4 million worth of shellfish move off the island each year, and although there are maybe some 35 growers, perhaps only slightly more than a dozen are into it as a full-time living. The numbers have dropped, says more than one grower, in part because the wholesale price of oysters has not budged significantly in a decade. As we continue to tread across McDonnell’s beach lease, he gathers a bag for a dinner with friends. He explains that when he first became an oyster grower, like others, he sold into the wholesale market. But now he and partner Cec Robinson have developed their Whaletown Oysters into a specialty brand for a regular clientele of 54 Vancouver Island restaurants. As Robinson puts it, “Until five years ago, [we were] just selling to the bulk market, throwing bags on the truck every week. Not a lot of satisfaction in that. It is a lot more satisfying dealing with the customer. I’m having fun at it now.” And they can charge enough to make a living. It almost happened by chance. At the first OysterFest, two women kept coming back to their stand and finally said they’d like to buy some. Robinson and McDonnell said sure, ready to pack up a few dozen. It turned out the women run Tita’s Restaurant in Courtney and that started the idea of selling direct to restaurant chefs. It was an eye-opener, Robinson says. “My assumption was that it would be difficult to find people willing to pay much for oysters where they grow. But what I found is that the restaurants actually were not able to get a reliable—at that time—supply of consistently excellent oysters. And they reacted with enthusiasm, they were so excited. They wanted to deal with the grower and tell their guests exactly where the oysters came from and talk to me about what could be just a little bigger and a little smaller and customize their order and get exactly what they want. And they know they’ll get the same thing next week.” This part of the shellfish business begs all sorts of comparisons with craft breweries or small wineries. They are mostly aiming at a market willing to pay a bit more for a specialty product. The 15 or so full-time oyster growers on Cortes have started to build their brands in the same way small wineries evolved: producing their own brands with distinct tastes and loyal followers. They sell to the chefs and the chefs in turn to customers, like Josephine Lee. “I’ve never met on oyster I didn’t like,” says the Victoria resident at the festival for the first time. A foodie, she knows her oysters, wants them fresh and wants to know where they come from. Meroir. She hit 52 oysters in one sitting a few years back—a record she figures—and usually heads back to her favourite Victoria restaurant because she knows the chef takes great care in

Tim Morris

Pat McDonnell of Whaletown Oysters picking oysters from the beach nderfoot, the oyster shells crunch slightly as Pat McDonnell and I wander across his lease on Cortes Island—a sea of white. These ocean delicacies come giftwrapped and swimming in their own nectar and it seems you either love them or hate them in their natural form: fresh, cold and raw from the shell. McDonnell knows them well enough to pinpoint an oyster from a different bay by taste. “The big difference is salinity in the liquor. That will vary from beach to beach. Bay to bay.” What terroir is to wine—an expression of place and season reflected in the wine—“meroir” is for oysters. The coined term means knowing how the beach, time of year, growing method, ocean temperature and feed can shape the taste of each bivalve. It’s the day after the Cortes Island OysterFest held on the Victoria Day long weekend, and the weather gods have been kind for the first time in its six-year run. The sun was out and it was hot. Music from the bands playing on the back of the truck rolled across the field by Squirrel Bay and while the kids romped in the field, oyster lovers from Vancouver Island,

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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

Tim Morris

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(L) Cortes Island oyster evangelist Brent Petkau. (R) Chef Kathy Jerritt stirring together a lemon caper aioli for oyster burgers at Cortes OysterFest 08.

Pat McDon the bay in fro the water hol are about 5,0 One of the most of which This year, a la for the much ble.” However, th Donnell. “We came from Co Pacific oyster We look ou ing, bobbing will be thinne no more than southeast sto That nurser is like a payc But for the OysterFest th of raw pleasu growers can ters the way o local stores a shell came fr

where he gets his raw oysters. “And I think it’s important, if you really are an oyster lover and know what a fine oyster tastes like, to find a place you can go and be comfortable. Knowing you can eat 52 oysters if you want to and not wake up next morning feeling queasy.” Lee arrived here because she’d struck up an email conversation with Cortes Island oyster evangelist Brent Petkau who, as his T-shirt proclaims, invites everyone to join the Oyster Revolution. “An oyster is very different than a mussel or clam. To have a premium quality oyster, you have to handle it repeatedly,” says Petkau. “Each time you are working with it, each time you are giving it that extra flavour a cultured oyster will offer you. It takes time. And I’m not working for nothing.” While enthusiastic and voluble about oysters as a sustainable food, a sexy food, a healthy food and a wonderful tasting food, he is equally forceful about the need for better wholesale prices for the product, saying that on Cortes both the inventory and morale of growers is low. The solution, if not higher prices, is direct marketing. Petkau sells most of his oysters to restaurants in Calgary and Toronto, and his mantra is to convince consumers to eat shellfish once a month. With that comes the obvious question of how oysters taste depending upon the season. The best time, he says, is spring. “Right now [in mid-May] is the finest [time for] oysters you will find throughout the year. They’re starting to feed. Spring is in the air. Life in the ocean arrives with spring a month before it does on land. So right now all these critters in the ocean are just consuming huge amounts of food coming through the winter where they’ve been starving.” And the impact on taste? “Full, flavourful … biting into blue-green algae. You’ve got flavour, you’ve got festivities. The oysters are busy making love. They are spawning and it’s almost like eating an overripe peach. And seasonally, appreciate what you’ve got. If you find an oyster spawning not to your liking and creamy, put it on the barbecue.” Cec Robinson, one-half of Whaletown Oysters with McDonnell, describes September and fall oysters as “very thin, after spawning and rather than creamy, they go sort of translucent. They take on their strongest taste at that point, a metallic taste after spawning.” In winter, Robinson finds them “more briny, a more powerful salt taste, more of a cucumber taste. I’ve heard that term and it’s actually quite accurate.” Most of these oysters, with names like Kushi, Whaletown Bay, Royal Courtesans, Stranger’s Bay, Viks, all begin life as one species, the Pacific oyster or, if you like to get technical, Crassostrea gigas.. It is the seasons and how they are grown that makes the difference. The restaurants all want different sizes. One way to control that is moving the oysters up and down the beach, into or out of trays. For these customers, there’s a lot more involved than just picking an oyster off the beach.

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Pat McDonnell and I continue to make our way along the shell-encrusted beach towards the bay in front of his house. A few hundred metres out on a raft, some 30 buckets bob in the water holding a quarter million tiny but growing oyster seeds. When they arrive there are about 5,000 to a tablespoon, says McDonnell. One of the biggest threats to the small oyster growers’ industry is the supply of seeds, most of which are sourced in the U.S. “That is our industry’s biggest problem coming up.” This year, a large amount of the seeds from their usual supplier died, leaving only enough for the much larger U.S. growers. “But for anyone here to get them . . . virtually impossible.” However, the story appears to have had a happy ending. “We lucked out,” continues McDonnell. “We found a place, never dealt with before, and our fingers are crossed. They came from Cornwall, England.” He chuckles that we grow Atlantic salmon while they grow Pacific oysters. We look out to the raft where that future paycheque, in 12 to 18 months’ time, is growing, bobbing in 30 buckets. After three weeks, they get split into 60, and as they grow, they will be thinned out so that by September, there will be 200 buckets. “We like to keep it to no more than 1,000 per bucket. They are happier and grow better.” In winter, before the southeast storms hit, those oysters will be brought ashore to start their beach or tray life. That nursery raft is critical. “If that fails . . . it’s like a funnel. What comes out the bottom is like a paycheque.” But for the shuckers and the oyster lovers who were celebrating in the sun at the OysterFest this past May, that side of the business is remote when compared to the sounds of raw pleasure. It’s all good as far as oyster lovers like Josephine Lee are concerned. And growers can only hope for more and more customers like Lee, those who appreciate oysters the way others enjoy craft beer or specialty wines. Customers who will demand of their local stores and favourite chefs some sense of where, when and how their oyster on the half shell came from. It’s the meroir factor!

ng together a

www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

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A Round-Up of News from Around the Province

BUZZ café The BC Scene

NANAIMO & Area

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eal Food [152 Morrison Street, Parksville, Tel: 250-248-0003] is just that – real. Husband and wife team Dallas & Tracy Collis take their food seriously. Dallas is so ardent about his victuals, and their lineage, he wants to pass the knowledge on. As such, he lectures at two of the local schools teaching kids about their food’s origin and supply chain. The man could be the godfather of the 100 meter diet, forget 100 mile. He is adamant about local and cooks that way as far as he can push it. Real Food is a tiny spot. That’s because the business is based on the principle of “eat here at lunch – take us home for dinner.” Most of the dishes have an Italian passport overridden with another visa saying, “Made Right Around Here.” If you do not get there early, the lasagna with parmesan cream sauce is gone. Saffron risotto with Italian sausage and grilled peppers is a regular feature, as is the Torta Rustica and stuffed eggplant. Dallas makes all the breads himself. Order the wild mushroom soup and a hunk of his bread and you will understand carbohydrate nirvana. If you really want to blow your jets, and your waistband, have the tiramisu. Hail a good Caesar! Welcome Giovanni’s Ristorante [Unit # 4 – 180 Second Avenue West, Qualicum Beach, Tel: 250-752-6693]. At long last, decent Italian food, made by Italians. Restaurateurs Giovanni and Helen Belcastro come to the beach after a long stretch running a successful Italian restaurant in Calgary. They took a hiatus to sleep and now they’ve settled in, making an “al dente” into their new home in Qualicum Beach. They tried for a soft-opening in August but word got out, so hungry were we all for good Italian. Don’t even think of getting in the door without a reservation. It is dinner only and white linen to boot. Front of house is going through some growing pains which should have sorted itself out by print time. The kitchen, however, has its act in gear. Calamari marinara was tender and true to its Napoli roots. White veal piccata was perfectly executed. Ditto the chicken Marsala. Pastas could use some fine tuning with a limit on ingredients in favour of elegant simplicity. The wine list is in evolution, lacking, oddly, any good Italian wines, except for a street-café Bolla. That being said, Tony Soprano would eat here. This place will grow into itself and carve a notch on the “must try” list of good restaurants in mid-Vancouver Island.

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The Tartan P is owned by d the Highland various ships things like sea chef with Seas pies. His pie c salt, gently kn baked. It is fla the shepherd’ gravy to go alo the-top. Run f posed to boun berries actual The Lantzvi what used to lage of Lantzv it finally dawn fare. Instead, well-prepared kitchen has a pulled-pork to Needing to be dle bowls, hea ask from your – Su Grimmer

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The Tartan Pie Wee Bakery [Unicorn Farm, 1430 Errington Road, Errington, Tel: 250-228-7162] is owned by diminutive, feisty storyteller chef Scotty Swistchew. Once you get your ear tuned to the Highland brogue, shut up and listen. Scotty has travelled the world, first as head chef on various ships in the British Merchant Navy, then on deep-sea exploration vessels doing cool things like searching for Amelia Earhart, and, prior to retiring from a life at sea, 14 years as a chef with Seaspan International plying the working coast of BC. Scotty makes pies. All kinds of pies. His pie crust is a gift to mankind: thrice sifted flour, butter, shortening and eggs, dash of salt, gently kneaded, rolled out, fluted around the edge to keep the black birds inside, and then baked. It is flakey, buttery bliss! Sampled for posterity were the chicken pot pie, the steak pie, the shepherd’s pie and the cherry pie. All two-thumbs up winners. He also gives you a vat of gravy to go along with each meat pie. Now, to be frank, I can’t say everything he makes is overthe-top. Run from the clam chowder and pass on the steak and kidney pie; kidney is not supposed to bounce. Otherwise, tuck in and enjoy. Oh, about the black birds, I think they were black berries actually as there was no squawking. The Lantzville Village Pub [7197 Lantzville Rd, Lantzville, Tel: 250-390-4019] is a fixture in what used to be a 1920’s heritage hotel on the 30-kilometer-zoned road through the small village of Lantzville. Having driven by it a zillion times and noted stacks of cars and trucks outside, it finally dawned on me that perhaps folks might be onto something. Don’t expect gastro-pub fare. Instead, you will find a friendly relaxed environment, slammed to the hilt with locals, tasty well-prepared pub grub, good service and a decent selection of beers on tap. Someone is the kitchen has a love affair with a hog going on. You will find lots of squealer on the menu from pulled-pork to honking slabs of ribs and many things with bacon crammed into every orifice. Needing to be many things to many folks, they also do enormous salads, a few sassy spicy noodle bowls, hearty working-man sandwiches, good soups and hand-cut fries. What more can you ask from your “local”? – Su Grimmer

Nanaimo’s Best Gourmet Deli…

COMOX VALLEY

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he big news in the greater Comox Valley-Campbell River region has to be this September’s First Annual Alpine Food Festival at Mount Washington Alpine Resort [mountwashington.ca]. Kudos to Karen Bonell and Tim Defert and their staff at Mt Washington, and especially to Sue and company at Beyond the Kitchen Door for this kick-off to celebrating the bounty of this region. The weekend event featured workshops with celebrity foodies like Karen Barnaby (Vancouver’s Fish House) and Victoria’s Eric Akis. My favourite was watching (and the tasting) what Chef Ronald St. Pierre of Locals [364-8th Street, Courtenay 250-338-6493 www.localscomoxvalley.com] and Sarah Walsh of Prontissima Pasta [www.prontissimapasta.com] did with a short time line and a wide range of fresh local ingredients. Just another reason why September is my favourite time of year to be on the mountain... This event raises a number of questions and issues, as well as opportunities for the growing

6560 Metral Drive, Nanaimo 390-0008 carrot@direct.ca

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The Urban Beet Food Co. is Nanaimo's unique Urban Market with it all! Bistro / Coffee House / Gourmet & Artisan Foods / Deli / Take Away. Come enjoy our inspiring menu of fresh foods and baked goods prepared daily. Indulge your family and friends over the holidays with a gift basket, gourmet cheese platter or holiday baking. Come visit us at 6595 Applecross Road, Nanaimo (right behind Costco) 250.390.9722 Mon to Fri: 7 am to 6 pm, Sat: 8 am to 6 pm and Sun 8 am to 5 pm.

www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

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“food/wine/culinary tourismâ€? that this region should be working to address. The Cowichan Valley has done well, supporting its producers and food and wine industry, positioning itself as “Canada’s Provence.â€? With local wine production coming onstream, and several vineyards in the works, the Comox Valley is beginning to attract similar attention. I was told by one source that this region has more going for it than our neighbours to the south. The Alpine Food Festival did a remarkable job (for a first-time event) at highlighting our gustatory riches. Off the top of my head these highlights included producers like Black Creek’s Island Bison (which is showing up on menus throughout the Valley and the Lower Mainland), Merville’s Halstead Farms (organic chicken), Beaufort Vineyard & Estate Winery [www.beaufortwines.ca] in Grantham, and Black Creek’s Pattison Farms (organic vegetables), to name just a few of the many producers involved. Now, if only the folks in charge of local economic boosterism could get excited about this... Getting people excited about food is one of the things I appreciate about Courtenay’s Beyond the Kitchen Door [274B 5th St, 250-338-4404 / www.beyondthekitchendoor.com]. Besides their hefty involvement in the Alpine Food Festival BtKD hosts a number of classes throughout the year. This fall it’s cooking from the Indian subcontinent with chef Tahera Rawji (Nov 8-10), perennial favourite Eric Akis (Nov 13-14), and then Jon Frazier of Atlas CafĂŠ [250-6th Street, Courtenay 250.338.9838](Nov 24). Please note: These events sell out quickly. In Comox, Avenue Bistro [2064 Comox Ave, 250-890-9200] has firmly established its legitmacy as the sister to Courtenay’s venerable and esteemed Atlas CafĂŠ. Recently adopted “red sealâ€? chef, Aaron Rail, brings his wealth of experience at places like Victoria’s CafĂŠ Brio and The Marina to the Avenue kitchen, and is making a positive impression local diners. I continue to be impressed by what Chef Emil Shellborn & partner Nah Yoon Kim are doing at Thyme on the Ocean [1832 Comox Ave, 250-339-5570]. They recently started a wine club, and are now doing monthly tasting events. All events offer winery pricing with at least a dozen wines to taste per evening. The restaurant will be closed from Nov. 9-18. In Cumberland The Great Escape [2744 Dunsmuir Street, www.greatescape-cumberland.com, 250-336-8831] is making changes to its regular menu and instituting “Thali Thursdays.â€? The restaurant will be closed Nov. 23 - Dec. 8. Cumberland also the relatively new home for another producer highlighted at this year’s Alpine Food Festival, Dark Side Chocolates [2722 Dunsmuir Ave, Cumberland 250-336-0126 / www.darksidechocolates.com]. Courtenay’s Crown Isle Resort [399 Clubhouse Drive, Courtenay 250-703-5050] hosts its very popular annual WineFest fundraiser on Nov 8, with proceeds going to the SPCA. After 18 years of experience in Europe, Chef Norman MĂźller has made the Comox Valley his home and is putting his mark on new menus for the Silverado Steakhouse and the Timber Room Pub. Travelling south, Lela Perkins and her crew continue to do amazing things out of the tiny space at Kiki’s Tearoom & Spice in Coombs [266 Alberni Hwy, 250-927-5454 / www.kikispice.com]. They’ve revamped the shop, added more seating, with a new brunch menu, and the usual range of wonderful and interesting Friday & Saturday dinners. I’ve also been hearing some good things about The Cedar Room at Tigh-Na-Mara Resort in Parksville [1155 Resort Drive, Parksville, www.tigh-na-mara.com/dining_cedar_room.htm 250-248-2072]. —Hans Peter Meyer

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s you begin putting those holiday gift baskets together, don’t forget to include some Okanagan brilliance! Fans of the uber popular Little Creek Dressings (and greens) will be thrilled to learn that there are new products on the way. Creator Donna Denison developed the original Little Creek Dressing in 1995 to complement her husband, Dale Ziech's, gourmet salad greens grown on their farm. After one taste, - we all became addicted! Donna has just created an Apple Cider Caesar dressing that is totally "vegan" with no eggs, anchovies or cheese. Also in the works is a line of Country Vinegars. How does Black Currant & Cherry Balsamic Vinegar sound for the Christmas season?? Yum! Products are available in most fine food stores – check out their website for locations. www.littlecreekgardens.com Want to further your wine education? The Okanagan wine country has all of the tools necessary to learn all you need to know about the art of swirling and sipping. Wine Plus+ is a company owned and operated by Rhys Pender (our local expert currently working towards his Master of wine) who is now offering educational and consulting services to the wine industry. Wine Plus+ provides education through the world recognized Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) with courses offered in Kelowna and Penticton. www.wineplus.ca Nothing says I love you at Christmas like a box of wine from the Okanagan! Contact Discover Wines in Kelowna to put together a box of liquid delights and have them shipped Santa style to your lucky gift recipient’s door. www.discoverwines.com Toll free: 1 888 500 3990 Make sure to book a dinner reservation at Kelowna’s hottest neighbourhood restaurant: Seven Six Four when in town. Chef Mark Filatow, who also remains at the kitchen helm at the celebrated Waterfront Wines, now provides another chic & beautiful space to enjoy high quality, locally inspired cuisine. If you are lucky, Chef Filatow will have ready his line of preserves that you can pop into those gourmet gift baskets! Breakfast and lunch are gorgeous and convenient - they are open from 7:30am. (If it is on the menu – try the pulled pork sandwich‌) For dinner reservations call 250.764.7645 12-4600 Lakeshore Road. The Rotten Grape has an Enomatic wine system! This high tech machine is a fully automated, state of the art, wine preservation system direct from Italy that dispenses temperature controlled wines. The Enomatic’s state of the art technology ensures that the delicate characteristics of the wines are preserved by using argon gas instead of compressed air in a patented process similar to that used during the bottling process that ensures the integrity of the wine. Patrons of Kelowna’s hippest wine bar can taste 8 varietals of wine (very well selected bottles) sold by the ounce, all at the touch of a button. 231 Bernard Ave. 250-717-8466 www.rottengrape.com Investor alert! Kelowna’s fabulous fish market, Hooked on Seafood, is for sale! With a booming fresh fish business to boast as well as the best fish and chips this side of the Pacific, owners Barb and Wayne Malone have decided to focus on their next project. We will be sad to see them go but wish them smooth sailing on their next voyage. I am sure the future new owners will be taught the secrets of their fish and chip business – it is a must stop when in town! Take out available too: 1951 Harvey (250) 860-2541 (Contact Barb and Wayne if you are interested in purchasing the business) For a touch of holiday magic join The Kelowna Actor’s Studio for some fabulous dinner theatre. Book tickets to see their production of the Rodgers and Hammerstein’s adaption of Cinderella from November 20th to December 14th! Bringing the Best of Broadway to Kelowna, Artistic Director Randy Leslie and his troupe offer fun productions all year long. For your Dinner, Dessert & Theatre Tickets: www.kelownaactorsstudio.com or call the Box Office at 250-8622867. —Jennifer Schell

TOFINO

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fter 11 years of business, the owners of the RainCoast CafĂŠ, Lisa Henderson and Larry Nicolay are taking a sabbatical. Long-time sous chef, Brett Ballendine and front end manager Jennifer Dart continue to offer the same dining experience that keeps guests coming back. If you are wondering where Henderson/Nicolay’s sabbatical has taken them, no need to look too far, new projects are on the horizon in a city near you. www.raincoastcafe.com The 12th Annual Clayoquot Oyster Festival, November 20 – 22, offers plenty to do during an otherwise quiet weekend. It is a great weekend to meet the locals too. The Long Beach Lodge Resort will host its annual oyster festival kickoff event, this year with a slightly different twist; a ‘Wear White’ Oysters and Bubbles Party. Friday night brings three fun events to choose from; Smoked, Shucked, and Cooked – with The Oysterman (Cortes Island’s Brent Petkau) in the Driftwood Lounge at the Wickaninnish Inn, Pearls of the Pacific, a four course oyster tasting dinner with sake pairings at Shelter Restaurant, and finally the Mermaid’s Costume Ball featuring the

Available in Fine Wine Shops and Leading Restaurants across Canada • QuailsGate.com

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annual Oyster Slurping Contest (with great prizes for best slurper as well as best costumes). Saturday wraps up the festival with a family friendly children’s book launch, The Oyster Who Looked at the Sky, Oysters AFLOAT! Farm tours and the Oyster Gala, where you’ll find all your favourite Tofino restaurants showcasing oysters in every way. Special guests includes local farmers barbequing oysters in the Pit, alongside Quadra Island’s Outlandish Shellfish Guild, shucking fresh succulent oysters. For more information on the Clayoquot Oyster Festival, visit www.oystergala.com Do you love chocolate? Chocolate Tofino has just created a new chocolate call the Organic Lavender Truffle using Salt Spring Island organic lavender. Need a local Tofino gift for someone? Try this – Island Flavours - a 6 piece box of chocolates made locally, includes two Organic Lavender Truffles, two Clayoquot Blackberry Buttercreams (using blackberries from Clayoquot Sound) and two Wildflower Honey Ganaches (using wildflower honey from Babe's honey in Saanich.) And while summer is a time for ice cream, fall and winter are great for hot chocolates, especially the Chocolate Elixir, Chocolate Tofino’s signature winter warm up (reminds me of that hot chocolate from the 2000 film Chocolat!) For more information visit www.chocolatetofino.com Storm watching season in Tofino has arrived. The next couple of months are great times to visit the west coast and experience the ‘real’ Tofino; stormy seas, quiet streets, beachcombing, relaxing and enjoying a delicious meal at one of our local restaurants. The Wickaninnish offers packages for both holidays, including exceptional dining experiences with unbeatable views of the wild seas and pristine Chesterman Beach. For more information on the Wick’s packages, visit www.wickinn.com. And don’t forget to make reservations at your favourite Tofino restaurant, many of them change their hours for the winter and book for special events. —Kira Rogers

VICTORIA

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ot just for summer anymore, a handful of Victoria’s pocket markets will brave the colder months by moving into warmer quarters. Bypass supermarket chains and find local gourds, fresh kale, Saanich garlic, homemade preserves and loaves for your holiday fetes and feasts. The Fernwood Market will shuffle inside Gladstone Café (grab a hot cup of cocoa while you shop for dinner), the Quadra Village Market moves inside Camas bookstore, and the UVic Market, Gorge-Tillicum Market, and Royal Roads Market also find shelter. Visit www.foodroots.ca for days and addresses. To keep your holiday to-do list simple, EAT has sleuthed sources for some of the best ingredients around town for you: Ambrosia’s in Oak Bay will be carrying big, fat, free-range turkeys from Saanich Kildonon Farms; call 250-592-7225 to order ahead. Plenty Epicurean Pantry at Fort and

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Cook has got your spices covered: star anise, a rainbow of peppercorns, plus the not-socommon galangal, real cinnamon, and whole organic vanilla beans. La Collina (1286 McKenzie Avenue) will be wrapping a ribbon around their European-style drinking bowls for hot cocoa kits; Peppers in Cadboro Bay will be carrying the ever-popular and decadent fruit cake from the Okanagan Valley. Munro’s Books, at 1108 Government St., is bringing in the mammoth A Day at El Bulli, for the holidays, an ode to the legendary, multi-award-winning Spanish restaurant leviathan. Also the highly useful Had a Glass: Top 100 Wines For 2009 Under $20, full of Canadian wines and free of snobbery. Silk Roads Tea (1624 Government St) is offering a series of workshops on homemade gifts and recipes (make your own 100% natural perfume or tea martinis). Visit www.silkroadstea.com for dates, but if you can’t attend, purchase kit workshops to do-it-yourself at home. Muffet & Louisa’s will be carrying Sarandipity truffles, Dufflet’s Crackle & Liquer Tumbles, and Duchy shortbreads -perfect for stuffing stockings. For a full list of holiday foodstuffs about town, visit www.eatmagazine.ca. Don’t forget to pick up a little extra; this time of year, Victoria’s food banks need donations the most. The Mustard Seed St. Church is Vancouver Island’s largest food bank. Their goal is to provide good, nutritional food to people in need. With more than thirty grocery stores across Victoria where you can drop off donations (most Thrifty Foods and Safeways, Oxford Foods in Cook St. Village, Fairway Market in Oak Bay), they’ve made it easy for you. Visit www.themustardsee.ca/Foodbank for a complete list of locations and a list of foods most needed. You can also call director Brent Palmer at 250-953-1575. The Goldstream Food Bank also distributes donations, call 250-474-4443 for more info. If hands-on help is more your style, Habitat for Humanity is holding a Gingerbread House Party at Laurel Point Inn to raise funds for building safe, affordable housing for low-income working families in Greater Victoria. Local beer, wine, and nosh will accompany the gingerbread men. 250-480-7688 for more information. At the time this copy went to print, concerned Victorians have raised $120,000 for Madrona Farm in attempt to secure its land in conjunction with The Land Conservancy. Visit www.madronafarm.com for status updates and upcoming fundraising events. Food and art meet in the cultural institutions of Victoria. At the Art Gallery of Greater Victoria this Winter two exhibits highlight the role of food in culture. The “Rice is Life” exhibit from Sept. 19 to Nov. 23, explores the traditional significance of rice in Asia. The humble staple that sustains nearly one half of all humankind is rightly honoured here as a cornerstone of economic politics, religious traditions, and environmental balance. Also at the Art Gallery, the “Lot in Life” exhibit showcases the activities we perform to survive; food production is, of course, one of the main endeavours. Examine how labour and food have been depicted by artists over the centuries. Sept.12 to Jan. 4th. Over at the Royal BC Museum on Jan. 8th, the Thursday Night Café Series will

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be discussing the relationship between culture and food. The type of food we enjoy is strongly influenced by our cultural background - or is it? Can you learn about your culture and history through food alone? www.royalbcmuseum.bc.ca In restaurant news, The Ambrosia Centre on Fisgard street has quietly opened the doors to its supper club. Seating only thirty the club boasts an exquisite menu, live music and top-notch service in an intimate setting. Meanwhile over on Government, Café Vieux Montreal has served its last croissant. The slice of Quebecois atmosphere will be missed in our very Anglophone city. Wine guy Mike Sly has joined Beth Crawford at Mattick’s Farm VQA. Crawford says, “Anyone who knows Mike knows what a knowledgeable person he is when it comes to wine, and anyone who doesn’t soon will. ”¡Orale! Spanish for “extreme excitement” is hoping Victoria will be extremely excited about its tacos, tamales, and pulled meats. The new Mexican eatery is on the corner of Johnson and Cook. And not to toot our horn, but food enthusiasts may benefit from knowing EAT Magazine has a richer, fuller, website chok-a-block with the latest news, events, books, wines, seasonal recipes, and quite a lot more. Stop by the site regularly -like any good menu, it will be refreshed and updated daily. We hope you like it. www.eatmagazine.ca —Katie Zdybel

From Our Family to Your Family All the Best this Holiday Season Where experience makes the difference 2577 Cadboro Bay Road,VICTORIA

592-0823

VANCOUVER

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here has been no slowing down in Vancouver's food scene over the last two months, with several new restaurants opening and several more to bloom on the immediate horizon. Let's begin with those that are currently enjoying their first tables. Andreas Seppelt (Go Fish) and Stephan Gagnon (Jules Bistro) have opened Le Faux Bourgeois way out on East 15th. The hearty menu at this casual French bistro was designed by executive chef Tina Fineza, formerly of Bin 942 and on loan from West 4th's Flying Tiger. The Irish Heather has opened in its new location across the street from its original Gastown spot. With it came the Shebeen Whisky House and the Salty Tongue Deli. Housed in the same modern building (the Shebeen is separated by a short alley in the back, as at the original) with an interior design courtesy of Evoke (Glowbal, Sanafir, Coast, FigMint, The Cascade Room, and more), it has been getting good reviews out of the gate with all praising chef Colleen McClean's (ex-Rare, Feenies) gastropub cooking (lovely Guinness-braised steak pies). The new chainlet from Cactus Club co-founder Scott Morison, Pinkys Steakhouse, has opened their second location on West 4th with little fanfare, adding more fat to a strip of Kitsilano that has become almost grotesquely overweight with new restaurants in just two years. Not far off, Mon Bella opened a few blocks down on West 1st. Brad Roark's (ex-Tapastree, CinCin) concept sees a mix of casual French and Italian food in an airy space that exudes freshness - much better looking than the location's two most recent incarnations, Vintropolis and the almost ridiculously short-lived Industry, which came and went in a fortnight or two earlier this year. In Coal Harbour, Voya at the Loden hotel has finally opened, a year behind schedule. The fine dining restaurant showcases the graft of Marc-Andre Choquette (ex-Lumiere) in the kitchen and the bar-stylings of Jay Jones, one of Vancouver's top tenders. On Davie, former Bin 941 and 942 operations manager Ed Perrow has teamed up with a pair of young German brother chefs to open the fetching hotspot La Brasserie, while further down the street Romano's Macaroni Grill has shut down after 15 years in the old Keg Mansion location. Ironically, it will become another Keg Steakhouse (it's the circle of life, Simba). As for restaurants opening soon, we have several more to look forward to. At the time of writing we're still waiting for Piato on 4th, a modern Greek restaurant, though we're pretty certain they'll be good to go by the time this goes to print. On Granville, Sip Resto Lounge has a new restaurant in the works on their second floor called MRKT (I assume this is a Klingon word that translates as "must destroy vowels"). It too may very well have opened by the time this issue hits the streets, albeit with a possible change to their name. Why? Enter international celebrity chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, who will be launching his first Canadian restaurant in the upcoming Shangri-La Hotel this January. Its name? Market. Ouch. The highly anticipated Campagnolo, the new Italian restaurant from the folks who brought us Fuel, should open this month on Main, as should the new Lumiere and Daniel Boulud's DB Bistro Moderne on West Broadway. December will bring a new wine bar into the Bentall complex at Pender and Burrard. The Wine Room, as it's being called, will see the sommelier talents of Keith Nicholson, formerly the wine guy and general manager at Whistler's high end Bearfoot Bistro, home of the Canadian Culinary Champion, chef Melissa Craig. In the closure department, it was a benevolent autumn with no notable victims. Let's hope it stays that way through the winter. —Andrew Morrison

IKE ACE L AYS... L P O LID THERE’S N HE HO N EAT IT. HOME FOR T OU CA Y E SP ECIALLY IF We can show you how to make a festive & delicious holiday gingerbread house.

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V{Ü|áàÅtá gÜtw|à|ÉÇá for your holiday table & gift giving

* Mulling Spices * Chocolate Truffles * Marzipan Figurines * Festive Sugar Cookies * Gingerbread (assorted sizes)

* Christmas Stollen * Stocking Stuffers * Rum Mincemeat * Peppermint Meringues * Cranberry Sauce with Grand Marnier

European Inspired Cakes, Pastries, Savouries 2217 Oak Bay Ave., Victoria, BC 250-370-0766 www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

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WHITES Marcel Deiss Pinot Blanc 05 France $38.00-42.00 The best often cost a little more but I can assure you the extra expense is worth every penny. Winemaker Jean-Michel Diess lets his biodynamic vineyards do the talking and believe me this full-bodied mezzo-soprano virtually sings in the glass. Peaches and apricots with a dense oily texture and powerful earthy nuances! A super Pinot Blanc to be savored. Prum Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett 06 Germany $33.00-38.00 This is without a doubt the biggest Kabinett I have ever tasted in my 35 years of tasting wine! Beautifully balanced with superb concentration and lovely peach and mineral flavours. Even though this wine is huge there is more than enough crunchy acidity to keep it balanced and focused! Bastide de Garille “Cuvee Fruitee” Viognier 07 France $16.00-20.00 An absolute fruit bomb that must be tasted to be believed! Unfettered with oak, each sip is an explosion of vibrant honeysuckle, peach and apricot flavours. Straight forward, refreshing and absolutely delicious. Meyer Family Tribute Series-Emily Carr Chard 06 British Columbia $38.00-45.00 About as Burgundian as you’re going to get this side of Beaune. Rich and creamy with wonderful citrus, nut and tropical fruit flavours and a soft clean finish. Who would have thought? REDS Ch Haut-Vigneau Premieres Cotes de Blaye 05 France $25.00-30.00 Restrained black currant, spice and tobacco notes, medium bodied with a richly textured palate and a touch of vanilla on the long chewy finish. Scoop them up because the 2005’s still on the market will not be around for long. Jaboulet-Vercherre Bourgogne Pinot Noir 05 France $25.00-30.00 Good Pinot is unlike any other wine made. With its alluring bouquet and seductive texture it appeals directly to the heart and for those that know its charm it is an experience not soon forgot. Full-bodied with black cherry and plum flavours, a slight gaminess with some fine tannins in the long robust finish! Tasty. Tollo Colle Secco Rubino 04 Italy $18.00-22.00 Deep garnet with delicious black cherry and earth scents, black fruit flavours with a touch of bitterness, good acidity and plenty of soft ripe tannins to round off the finish. Terra Andina Carmenere Reserva 07 Argentina $17.00-18.00 Big and beautiful, this hearty red from the foothills of the Andes is concentrated and polished with intense berry flavours and fine-grained tannins. Excellent. Chateau de Rully Rouge 05 France $45.00-50.00 Whoa! If you love Burgundy you will absolutely love this fine pinot from the Cote Chalonnaise. Medium-bodied and richly textured with complex layers of cherry, spice and barnyard scents. Pinossimo Pinot Noir 06 France $16.00-19.00 Soft and silky with appealing aromas of red cherries, spice and warm earth, nicely balanced with a long, juicy finish. SPIRITS Victoria Gin Vancouver Island $55.00-60.00 Eye of newt, hair of dog are just a couple of the ingredients that may or may not be included in this charming but lethal elixir. The shiny new pot still on Old West Saanich Rd. is working round the clock trying to keep up with orders and though expensive this silky smooth dry gin is definitely worth putting out for a bottle or three.

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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

true brew

THE WINES

by Larry Arnold

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The Great Canadian Beer Festival:

Victoria’s Place As BC Craft Beer Capitol Is Still Secure By Christopher Pollon ith more than 170 beers to choose from, including many cask-conditioned IPAs, imperial stouts and other wonderful oddities, the 16th annual Great Canadian Beer Festival in September proved again that Victoria is the undisputed craft beer capitol of BC. Scalpers were working the crowds outside Royal Athletic Park, selling and seeking tickets for an event that sells out every year – leading up to the event, passes for the Saturday session were selling for $200 on Craigslist. The event draws brew masters from primarily Western Canada and the Pacific US, with one significant omission -- the major brewers who supply well over 90 percent of the beer consumed in Canada are not invited. In other words, there were no “certified ice cold� light lagers on offer here -- just pale and India pale ales in numbers, darker-hued stouts and porters, Belgians galore, and where lagers did appear, there was more flavour and less fizz. For me personally, it was the unusual and experimental offerings that attracted my focus, and for those who think that fruit, herbs and even vegetables have no place in beer, there were ample opportunities here to prompt one to reconsider. My first stop was at Crannog Ales of Sorrento BC, which with this event retained its status as a BC beer treasure: the Pookah Cherry Ale made with organic Shuswap bings was pouring, as was the cask-conditioned Bansidhe Organic Fruit Ale. Each cask of the latter was slightly different, stuffed with varying combinations of Saskatoon berries, currants, cherries, plums and crab apples produced organically on their farm. Victoria’s Hugo’s Brewhouse offered up its ginger and ginseng infused “Super G� – a beer which promised to “make for happiness, virility and long life,� but delivered only a strange medicinal burn on the finish. I wouldn’t order a pint of it in the future, but I’m glad I tried it anyway. Then there was Eureka California’s Tangerine Wheat Ale, which came on like boozy Tang, while Russell Brewing’s Lemon Wheat Ale was all citrusy bombast, wacking the tastebuds with a syrupy-sweet sledgehammer. Other fruit and vegetable experiments were more successful: Oregon’s famous Rogue brewery featured its Chipotle Ale, a beautiful golden ale with subtle smokiness and a slight chilli burn at the end. Tin Whistle Brewing of Penticton provided a pleasant surprise with their delicate and light Peach Cream Ale, powered by 100 percent Okanagan fruit. When it came to Belgian imports, I was drawn to the Mort Subite Kriek, a bubbly and sweet cherry-infused lambic – with a pink head, deep red colour, and a dry, slightly sour close. North American takes on various Belgian styles of beer were numerous, but Unibroue’s Fin Du Monde with its boozy composite of malt, fruit and spice was a particular treat, and the Granny Smith-infused Ephemere Apple was another highlight. Amid all this beer bliss, there were some unexplained phenomena -- like the enormous line-ups for both Dead Frog and Steamworks Brewing. This might be explained, in the latter case, by the popular seasonal Great Pumpkin Ale: with powerful nutmeg, cinnamon and ginger flavours, drinking this beer is like drinking a slice of pumpkin pie. I was better able to justify lining up at the Central City Brewpub booth, where brew master Gary Lohin himself was pouring his fruity, boozy Thor’s Hammer Barley Wine, which was aged a year in advance of the event. All in all, the festival was an enormously civilized affair – people were friendly, jovial, with both sexes well represented; the police were present but very much in the background; and even though the event was outside, smokers were corralled like cattle into a small rectangular fenced pen on the periphery of the field. Most importantly, there were more great craft brews than you could sample in an afternoon, which brings me full circle: I don’t know exactly why Victoria is BC’s beer capitol, but it most certainly is, and they have this event to prove it.

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51

Robert M Parker

98 points Stephen Tanzer

16/20

70 pts 88 pts

18/20 100 pts

DO POINTS MATTER?

Wine by Numbers

In an industry gone mad for point scores, your own palate is still the best way to rate a wine.

By Michaela Morris and Michelle Bouffard

B

uying wine can be intimidating. Even we feel overwhelmed sometimes. When selection was limited, it might have been boring but it certainly was easier. Today we are spoiled for choice. So, how do you pick a wine? Even if you narrow it down to a specific country or region, grape variety and price, you may still have plenty to choose from. A shelf talker exclaiming 90 points for your $15 bottle seals the deal. With a score like that, it’s got to be good, right? Grudgingly, we will admit that points matter. They matter to the wine producer who is trying to sell his or her wine. They matter to the importer or wine store who in turn must flog the wine. They matter to magazines, such as Wine Spectator, which proclaim on their front covers: “Inside, more than X number of wines over 90 points!” in an effort to sell their publication. And they matter to the consumer who is trying to make a quick and palatable decision about what to buy. The 100-point system is a brilliant innovation when it comes to scoring wine. It is easy for us North Americans to understand because we were graded out of 100 at school. Leading U.S. wine critic Robert M. Parker, Jr. is credited with its inception. He argues that the previously popular 20-point system didn’t offer enough flexibility to rate a wine accurately. In his approach, wines in his Wine Advocate get 50 points just for showing up. If only schools applied the same rule! Then a variety of points are awarded for colour, aroma, flavour, finish and aging potential. The immediate success of this system encouraged most other critics and publications to adopt it. While Parker’s intention of giving guidance to us wine drinkers was good, he and his ilk created a monster: a world obsessed with point scores. It’s not Parker’s fault that we have become fixated on scores and often ignore the review that accompanies them. A number simply cannot convey how a wine will taste. Do we buy art or music based on a score? Don’t we choose these by personal preference? The obvious difference is that you can see or hear before you buy, but with wine, you seldom get to try it. Reading the comment that goes along with the score is a step in the right direction. If you aren’t a fan of oaky wines and the review reads “toast, vanilla and wood spice,” you probably won’t like it even if it did receive 92 points. Would you watch a horror film even though you can’t stomach the genre just because a movie critic said it was good? Critics have their own taste and it won’t necessarily be the same as yours. Robert Parker, known for his preference for big, opulent wines with low acid and high alcohol, tends to give these wines higher scores. Less well-known but talented wine writer Stephen Tanzer favours wines with a bit more acidity. When the same wine is reviewed by these experts, the result may be a very different rating. If you are going to rely on the critics, see how their tastes align with yours. “Gobs of ripe, jammy fruit” may not actually appeal to you whereas “a bright, crunchy elegant wine” may be more up your alley, even if the former garnered a higher point score. To complicate matters, the 100-point scale is not the only rating system in use today. Some critics employ a 20-point or 5-star system. And one does not translate to the other very effectively. Seventeen out of 20 is considered good but only converts to 85. The star system fares even worse when a translation is attempted: 4 out of 5 equals a lowly 80. Even

52

within the same system, scoring standards vary. Certain critics give away 90 points at the drop of a cork. Others bestow such an honour on a relative handful of wines. A score of 90 from a tough marker (such as Burgundy expert Allen Meadows) is quite an achievement. In the words of one of our favourite wine writers, Jancis Robinson: “It would be much more convenient for everyone if there were a single objective quality scale against which every wine in the world could be measured, but I’m afraid I just don’t believe such a scale exists ...” The obsession with point scores has seriously influenced the wines that are being made today. Many winemakers have altered the way they produce wine to appeal to specific influential palates. Imagine if the technology existed to guarantee a high score. In fact, this isn’t far from the truth; producers are already taking advantage of that technology. Hello homogenization and goodbye individuality. It comes as no surprise, then, that the amount of highly rated wines has increased. Ninety-point wines used to be exceptional; today they are a dime a dozen. Anything below 90 has become unacceptable even for wines that are less than $20. Most of us would deem 85 a good test result at school. For a wine, it’s the kiss of death. But if you happen to read the fine print of Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar newsletter, he states: “Wines rated at least 85 are recommended bottles that should provide pleasurable drinking.” According to him, 80-84 represents wines that are “good” and while the Wine Spectator uses this range for “a solid, wellmade wine.” Most critics award extra points for the wine’s ability to age. Do those extra points really matter if you’re popping the cork immediately? A wine may be favourably reviewed but not particularly friendly when young. Wine Spectator’s ratings “are based on potential quality: how good the wines will be when they are at their peak.” If you aren’t drinking the wine at its peak, the score becomes meaningless, if it wasn’t already. It is quite possible that many of the unrated wines we enjoy would fall into the category of “solid and well-made.” Do we really care that someone might attach a numerical score of 80-84 to them? Would this have an impact on our enjoyment of the wine? Often the girl next door is more approachable, friendly and charming than a supermodel. It’s more than OK to dislike a wine that received 95 and love a wine that scored 85. Tasting for a living is not easy. Yes, we can hear you chuckling. It’s true, though. While we’re not looking for sympathy for the wine critic or for ourselves, just consider trying 50 wines in a single day and endeavouring to assess them properly. Your palate eventually gets tired no matter how practised a taster you are. In these rigorous circumstances, the high-alcohol fruit-bombs stand out and often end up receiving a higher score. In a normal setting, it may be almost impossible to enjoy more than a few sips of a fruit-bomb before craving something more refreshing and food-friendly. The atmosphere and company you are with will trump any point score. The whole industry of rating wine is contradictory to what wine is all about. Wine is meant to be savoured not scored. Your enjoyment is paramount. Even Robert Parker says: “There can never be any substitute for your own palate.”

EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

Ta s t i n g

N ot e s

*The references to other critics’ scores is not to discredit them. After all, rating wine is subjective.

WHITE

Sip

In the C up-and

by Treve Ri

2007 J.J. McWilliams, Chardonnay, South Eastern Australia, $10.99 No rating for this wine. We aren’t going to give it a point score, but we are going to tell you that this wine offers great value for money. Perfect for those who like a riper, new world Chard that isn’t oaky. Ripe pineapple and buttery flavours but still food-friendly.

RED 2007 Bodega Cavas del 23 “Beviam” Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza, Argentina, $13.75 We reviewed this wine several times and our notes are always positive and consistent. Appealing nose of focused dark fruit and bloody notes. Dry tannin; definitely in need of a juicy steak. What more do you want for this price? (70 points, Anthony Gismondi) 2006 McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate, Shiraz, South Eastern Australia, $14.99 Don’t think about the point score here, especially if 85 isn’t enough for you. Well-made and fairly priced. Aussie Shiraz lovers will be satisfied without breaking the bank. Classic baked plums with hints of caramel. Mouth-filling. (85 points, Wine Spectator) 2005 Telmo Rodriguez, Dehesa Gago, Toro DO, $19.99 Robert Parker calls this wine “a stunning value.” We have to agree. Yet it hasn’t achieved the 90+ point score that really grabs consumers’ attention. Too bad. This serious, masculine wine really shines next to a piece of lamb. (89 points, Robert Parker, versus 84 points, Wine Spectator) 2006 Chono, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserva, Maipo Valley, Chile $21.50 Pungent aromas of green bell pepper and tar; there is no mistaking that this is a Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile. Honestly made with good acidity that begs you to take another sip. (While past and current vintages have never scored more than 88 points, it’s still worthy of your hardearned dollars.) 2004 Villa Antinori, Toscana IGT, Italy, $24.95 IF we were in the score business, we’d probably rate this wine higher than the numbers it currently gets. Aromas of grilled herbs and pine forest take us directly to Tuscany. Slatey and savoury on the palate with integrated oak. Bring on the puttanesca! (80 points, Anthony Gismondi) Mitolo, GAM Shiraz, McLaren Vale, Australia, $54.00 Obviously, the 95 point score from Robert Parker will be used to promote the wine rather than the 88 points from Wine Spectator. Unless you do your own research, you may not be aware that another publication gave it a lower score. If you did discover this, would you buy it as willingly? Hopefully you are buying it because you love it. This hedonistic and bold wine is a consistent performer. (95 points, Robert Parker, 88 points, Wine Spectator) Qupé and Au Bon Climat Then there are those wines that always wow us but repeatedly receive less than stellar scores. From California, Qupé’s Syrahs and Au Bon Climat’s Pinot Noirs fall into this category. In our humble opinion, they definitely warrant a frequent place on your dinner table.

Susan at Beaufor

ture to groom trailers); imp fencing; sele renovated th and storage; 2.5 tons of b The smiles they picked u – bronze, and support they vines to matu with the help leases. When resistant hyb Cabernet-Foc tinctive label Easter Island image for Be out local carv from a giant the grapes lo Beaufort V 5854 Picke

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Sipping News In the Comox Valley, a new winery is making this up-and-coming region even more appealing. by Treve Ring

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t was nearly the end of my long, hot day in the valley sun, and after talking to ambitious folks for hours about their sweet beverage plans, I was ready for a drink. So I was very happy indeed to come across Beaufort Vineyard & Estate Winery, open since May and happily pouring tastings with visitors like me. Owners, winemakers, vineyard labourers, marketers and tasting room pourers Susan and Jeff Vandermolen were already 60 percent sold out when I visited them six weekends after they opened their doors. In addition to the above titles, Susan and Jeff are also bonafide globetrotters (60 countries and counting), hold degrees in chemical engineering and business respectively, and have a combined 40-plus years of business experience. Their motto is “work to live – not the other way around!” So lifestyle was a huge consideration when they were deciding to set up shop in Comox. They looked at more than 100 sites before purchasing 85 acres of land in 2006. Susan and Jeff Vandermolen Not adverse to hard work, within two years at Beaufor t Vineyard & Estate Winer y they’ve converted eight acres from cattle pasture to groomed vineyard; purchased all vineyard-related farming equipment (tractor, ATV, trailers); improved site drainage; designed vineyard layout, trellises, drip irrigation and fencing; selected and sourced grape varietals; planted 7,500 vines; drilled a water well; renovated their family home and grounds to accommodate tasting room, wine production and storage; and sourced, processed, fermented and aged 16.5 tons of grapes as well as 2.5 tons of black currants/blackberries. And they’re still constantly smiling! The smiles persist because the hard work has paid off in the form of three recent awards they picked up at the 2008 Northwest Wine Summit in Oregon (Pinot Gris – silver; Ortega – bronze, and their fortified Black – bronze). Or it could be the overwhelmingly enthusiastic support they’ve received from local restaurants and residents. While they wait for their vines to mature, they’ve sourced their grapes from the Saanich Peninsula and Oliver, and, with the help of well-known consulting winemaker Todd Moore, have seven inaugural releases. When their own vines are ready for harvest in fall 2009, they’ll be picking mildewresistant hybrids specifically chosen for their cooler climate: Marechal Foch, Leon Millot, Cabernet-Foch X, Ortega (Riesling X) and Siegerrebe (Gewürztraminer X). And their distinctive label? On the eve of the millennium, they experienced the giant Moai statues of Easter Island and fell in love with the serene beasts. When it came time to consider an image for Beaufort Winery, the Moai (and its great “nose” for wine) won out. They sought out local carver Stan Skuse from Campbell River and commissioned him to carve the Moai from a giant fir tree on their land. The final result: a striking, 14-foot, four-ton guardian of the grapes looking out over the vineyard in the geographical direction of Easter Island. Beaufort Vineyard & Estate Winery 5854 Pickering Rd., Courtenay, 250-338-1357, www.beaufortwines.ca

I

! Mad for Merlot

ON THIS FARM THERE IS A “WINE ELF”

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Open 7 days a week 5325 Cordova Bay Rd. 250-658-3116

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Our service can best be described as “Knowledgeable, yet not pretentious… …approachable, with a hint of sass!”

Pentage Merlot ‘05, $25

Finally, the Sideways silliness is over and we can get back to enjoying bottles of good merlot. And why not? BC may have found its signature red grape in this appealing vinifera that ripens nicely in the Okanagan sun. This fine example from Pentage, a winery high up overlooking Skaha Lake, avoids the cloying style of so many overripe new world merlots delivering instead a dry, medium-bodied, food-friendly sip that made me think Italian in its structure. I loved the mild tannic grip, the acidity and the nose of cherry, spice and mocha. Recommended with wild mushroom risotto. G.H.

www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2008

53

Chef’s Talk: "What’s your worst holiday kitchen disaster?" Alberto Pozzolo The Italian Bakery 250.388.4557 My wife Janet and I were in Montreal for my friend's wedding and after lodged with them in their quiet cottage in the Laurentian Mountains. The couple headed into town while we made them a romantic dinner with the newly picked chanterelles (August wet showers and my keen vision). All was going smoothly, until I turned around and saw flames coming out of the oven. The croutons were on fire. In no time the cottage was engulfed with smoke as the outside fire alarm horn started to blare which was connected to the fire department. My friend was able to respond to my call and instruct me on how to quiet the blaring horn. I still remember well the sound carrying through the peaceful valley and how the neighbours must have been rudely awakened from their leisurely afternoon naps. Ken Hueston Smoken Bones Cookshack 250.391.6328 I got a good one! When I was the chef up-Island we were open on Christmas day for a wedding. A cake was brought in that was custom-made by a family down in Mexico and flown to Vancouver then delivered to our door. After inspecting this exotic cake my sous- chef put it on a table. Minutes later we heard a huge crashing sound. Goodbye cake! I have never improvised so fast. I wonder if the bride and groom noticed the subtle differences?

Takashi Ito The Empress Room 250.389.2727 My worst experience was my first turkey dinner experience. New to Canada, my wife and I were very excited as you don't see whole turkeys roasted on Japanese dinner tables. My friend's mom cooked a turkey but it was cooked to very dead! It was painful to swallow that turkey and a lot of gravy and cranberry sauce were needed. As a chef I can't leave anything on the plate or people will ask me, "was anything wrong?" Sometimes it's painful. Peter Heptonstall Restaurant Matisse 250.480.0883 It was Christmas day. My new bride had invited her parents and mine for the family turkey diner. All was going well. Cocktails and warm conversation, house filled with an atmosphere of sage and onion, and a Turkey that had slow roasted for hours. We settled down to an opening dish when the background of soft festive music was blown away with a very large thud, followed by a slobbering happy munching, tail waging kind of sound coming the kitchen. Yes, Tiger our family pet, a large shepherd lab cross who was indifferent to Christian (or any other) celebration, had found a fine turkey resting on the cutting board. Cory Pelan Ristorante La Piola 250.388.4557 A few years back at a different kitchen, my crew and I were prepping for one of many 200-plus person Christmas banquets. I decided to take on the task of cleaning, seasoning and trussing the turkeys. I made a nice rub with fresh herbs, pureed shallots and garlic, olive oil, salt and pepper. I then stuffed the cavities with lemon wedges, onion, whole shallots and fresh herbs. We had proudly sent out the turkeys with all the trim-

by Ceara Lornie

mings to the eager crowd and were tidying up when I realized, looking down at my left ring finger, my wedding ring was missing. I had the team scouring the kitchen for what seemed like an eternity, to no avail. It then dawned on me the ring must have slipped off while stuffing the birds. I like to think that one of the guests may have received an early Christmas present, but more likely the ring was in the local landfill. The real disaster occurred later when I told my wife—and yes we're still together. Jonathan Smid Bon Rouge Bistro 250.220.8008 I was in culinary school during Thanksgiving and my instructor trusted me with the turkey ballotine. I was told to sear the 25 lb. bird in a shallow pot filled with searing hot oil. I got one end down nicely, then my tongs slipped. While I was diving out of the way, I noticed to my chagrin another student looking intently into the pot. Horrified and screaming, he proceeded to rub his face with a rag, dispersing the hot, napalm-like oil all over his face. A quick trip to the hospital, and about a gallon of burn cream later, he only carried a slight resemblance to the elephant man. I apologized profusely into his fully bandaged face, he murmured, “Accidents happen, we are here to learn after all”. I haven’t bothered to recreate the dish, though I’ve remembered that nightmare every Thanksgiving since. Markus Weiland Markus’ Wharfside Bistro 250.642.3596 My biggest holiday disaster was on our first Valentine's day five years ago. The rare time that I took a holiday booking (as the reservation book is a science in its self!) was for Valentine's day, and I ended up over booking us by one table!

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