RESTAURANTS | RECIPES | WINES | CULINARY TRAVEL
CELEBRATING THE FOOD & DRINK OF
VANCOUVER ISLAND
HOLIDAY ENTERTAINING
Petite Potted Salmon and The West Coast Cocktail recipes on page 26
NOVEMBER | DECEMBER
l 2010 | Issue 14-06 | THIS COPY IS FREE
Cocktails, Chocolate, Savoury Hors d’Oeuvres + Turkey Side Dishes
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eat magazine NOVEMBER | DEC 2010
Make your Holidays Delicious
Main Plates Oceans for Tomorrow . . . . . .22 A first hand account of the Canadian Chefs’ Congress
Holiday Entertaining Feast of the 7 Fishes . . . . . .24 A Cocktail Party . . . . . . . . . .26 Holiday Desserts . . . . . . . . .30 Starring Side Dishes . . . . . .32
Food + Travel . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Forager . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 News from around BC . . . . .34 One Ingredient . . . . . . . . . . .39
Drink
Concierge Desk . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Ocean Wise: The Cookbook .8 Get Fresh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 Food Matters . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Good for You . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Restaurant Reporter . . . . . . 14 Eating Well for Less . . . . . . .15 Top Shelf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 Epicure At Large . . . . . . . . . .18 Chefs’ Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Chocolate Charlotte on page 30
DRINK Liquid Assets . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Craft Beer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 F & W Pairing . . . . . . . . . . . .43 Wine Etiquette . . . . . . . . . . .44 The Mixologist . . . . . . . . . . .46
Caroline West
Appetizers
Thrifty Foods Cooking and Lifestyle Centre has cooking classes to help make your holiday entertaining and baking easy and delicious. Visit thriftyfoods.com/lifestyle for a complete list of events and convenient on-line registration or call 250 483 1222 for more information. Attend a class for yourself or pick-up a gift certificate and treat the ‘foodie’ on your list.
COVER: Holiday Entertaining: Recipes begin on page 26. Photo by Michael Tourigny, Styled by Jennifer Danter.
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Editor in Chief Gary Hynes Contributing Editor Carolyn Bateman, Vancouver Contributing Editor Julie Pegg Editorial Assistant/Web Editor Rebecca Baugniet Community Reporters Comox Valley: Hans Peter Meyer, Tofino | Uclulet: Jen Dart, Vancouver: Julie Pegg, Okanagan: Jennifer Schell, Victoria Rebecca Baugniet Contributors Larry Arnold, Michelle Bouffard, Maryanne Carmack, Jennifer Danter, Jen Dart, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, Holland Gidney, Laurie Guy, Mara Jernigan, Tracey Kusiewicz, Kathryn Kusyszyn, Anya Levykh, Ceara Lornie, Sherri Martin, Rhona McAdam, Kathryn McAree, Sandra McKenzie, Michaela Morris, Colin Newell, Janet Nicol, Julie Pegg, Genevieve Laplante, Karen Platt, Treve Ring, Solomon Siegel, Elizabeth Smyth, Adem Tepedelen, Michael Tourigny, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman. FOR CONTRIBUTOR BIOS GO TO WWW.EATMAGAZINE.CA/CONTRIBUTORS
Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark. Advertising: 250.384.9042, advertise@eatmagazine.ca All departments: Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4, tel. 250-384-9042 editor@eatmagazine.ca Also visit: www.eatmagazine.ca eatjobs.ca Since 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. All opinions expressed in the articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. Pacific Island Gourmet reserves the right to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved.
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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
'I VE T HE GI F T OF ,OC AL welcome to EAT I always like to write my editor’s note last - after the issue is done and put to bed. Sometimes that means writing it at 3 am with a glass brandy in hand. This issue is no exception. So jam-packed with stories that it took an extra long time to get every article, snippet, photo, contributor’s credit and ad in its place. It seems like a fitting end to one of the busiest lead-ups to the holiday period in years. I don’t know about you but didn’t it seem like the parade of festivals, tastings, events and launches were more prolific than ever? And that despite a recession that just won’t quit. We do love our food and wine. One of the more unique events I attended recently was the Canadian Chefs’ Congress held in Duncan. Chefs came from all over Canada to the Island for a weekend of cooking, eating and discussion. Although it was essentially an industry get together, I thought this food-mad region we live in would want to hear a bit about the CCC, given that what chefs learned at this congress will eventually trickle down to the restaurants we dine in. Here’s something new. Yesterday I spent the day at French Mint, a cooking school in Victoria. Video Director Nick Versteeg, a James Beard Award nominee, filmed contributor Denise Marchessault making the Chocolate Charlotte featured on page 30 in this issue. Please take a look at his video (which can be found on the EAT website www.eatmagazine.ca). Let us know what you think of it. Before I use up my allotted space (and finish this brandy), I want to give a heartfelt thank-you to everyone who has been involved with the creation of EAT this year: to our loyal supporters and advertisers, our writers and photographers—and to you, good reader, I wish you a very happy holiday and an amazing New Year. —Gary Hynes, Editor (editor@eatmagazine.ca)
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The Golden Broccoli was found by Vista 18 Executive Chef Garrett Schack. Photo is of Garrett with the Golden Broccoli that was hidden amongst 3,500 brussels sprout plants on the side hill at Madrona Farm. The trophy was made by Paul Smith of Smith Brothers Foundry and will have all participating chefs names engraved on it and will travel from each restaurant as a symbol of restaurants who go above and beyond to help the preservation of farmland and support local farming.
Why advertise with EAT? Because it works.
WWW.CHRLPHOTOGRAPHY.COM 250 588 1826
CHRISTOPHE LAGUIGNÉ PHOTOGRAPHY
And the Golden Broccoli goes to...
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Culinary intelligence for the 2 months ahead
the concierge desk
by Rebecca Baugniet
For more events visit www.eatmagazine.ca
November EAST KOOTENAY WINE FESTIVAL The 9th Annual East Kootenay Wine Festival at Fairmont Hot Springs Resort takes place Saturday, November 6th, 2010. Friday, November 5th sees the return of the gourmet pre-festival winepaired dinner. Visit the website for more information. (www.fairmonthotsprings.com) CELEBRATING OCEAN WISE November 9th, Barbara Jo’s Books to Cooks is hosting the launch of The Ocean Wise Cookbook. Join editor Jane Mundy for an evening of discussion and sustainable seafood creations prepared by Chef Robert Clark of C Restaurant. The cost is $69.00 and includes a copy of The Ocean Wise Cookbook. Call 604-6886755 to register.
THIS LITTLE
PIGGY
WENT TO THE
red seal chef’s Christabel Padmore & Patrick Simpson of Little Piggy Catering have partnered with the English Inn to transform the historic estate into Victoria’s premiere events venue. we specialize in weddings, private parties, corporate meetings and events.
Book your Christmas party or private event today! res@englishinn.ca | 250.388.4353 www.englishinn.ca | www.englishinnpresents.ca 6
EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
WEST COAST CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL Running until November 10th, the West Coast Chocolate Festival creates mentored work experience and arts opportunities for youth, through chocolate-themed events for all. With the participation of the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts, Horizons Restaurant, ChocolaTas, Schokolade Café and others, chocoholics are sure to get their fill. To view the complete event schedule, visit the website. (www.chocolatefestival.ca) SLURP AND SWIRL Joe Fortes Seafood and Chop House presents the 8th Annual Slurp & SwirlTM, November 10th. This black tie gala will be co-hosted by Mackie Research Capital Corporation and Kim Danielsen. Enjoy freshly shucked oysters, gourmet canapés, champagne and wine tasting stations, complete with a ‘Balloon Auction’, a silent auction, and a live auction showcasing art by local Vancouver artists. Tickets are $150 per person available at Joe Fortes. WHISTLER’S CORNUCOPIA Celebrate gourmet food coupled with fine wine at Whistler from November 11th-14th. Sit in on fascinating seminars with wineries, critics and wine profes-
sionals, or attend winemaker dinners where sumptuous multi-course meals are paired with a variety of wines. Swirl, sniff, & sip a selection of vintages at various tasting events or take a Chef's Trip to the Farm. Visit the Whistler Cornucopia website to buy tickets & full event details (www.whistlercornucopia.com). WINEMAKERS DINNER Muse Winery’s Annual Winemakers Dinner with Deep Cove Chalet Restaurant will take place November 13th. More details to follow on their website (www.musewinery.ca) Reserve by contacting Muse Winery 250-656-2552. CLAYOQUOT OYSTER FESTIVAL The 14th Clayoquot Oyster Festival is a celebration of the abundance & beauty of the sea. In Clayoquot Sound, oysters give us lots to celebrate about. The Oyster Gala will take place on November 20th, the Mermaid's Ball on November 19th and all the other events starting on the 18th. (www.oystergala.com) EMPRESS APPRENTICE DINNER The Empress’ 3rd Annual Apprentice Showcase Dinner is a chance to enjoy a five course dinner created by apprentices Jeanie Norris and John Lance. The five course dinner will be served in The Empress Room, with wine pairings from the Mission Hill Family Estate Winer. Sunday, November 21. Please call to make reservations (250-389-272). HOLIDAY CHEER LOUNGE NIGHT Get in the holiday spirit with Silk Road’s Holiday Cheer Lounge Night, Thursday November 25th, from 5 to 9 pm. Sip on a tea cocktail, enjoy tasty nibbles, and be pampered with free mini spa services while you kick off your holiday shopping. The staff will be on hand, offering samples of holiday teas and recipes for entertaining. (www.silkroadtea.com) TOAST THE HOLIDAYS Find out how to use different teas to make tea punch, mulled teas, tea martinis, tea infused spirits, tea sangrias, and dessert drinks at this Silk Road event on November 27th, from 2 to 3:45 pm. Cost is $12 per person (www.silkroadtea.com)
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December APPETIZERS FOR ALL OCCASIONS The James Bay community School Centre is holding a Cooking with Chef Sonja workshop December 1st, from 6:00 to 8:30 pm. Interested in learning how to create tasty appetizers? Discover recipes such as vegetarian momos, savoury walnut tofu balls, pumpkin seed & sunflower seed pâté, fig & walnut spread and an artichoke sundried tomato dip. The workshop is $43 per person. Call 250-389-1470 to register, or visit www.jamesbaycentre.ca for more details. HOLIDAY DINNER CLASS AT FRENCH MINT Dec. 2. Join guest Chef Castro Boateng in this elegant holiday dinner cooking class. Learn to de-bone a quail (it’s easier than you think!) and prepare an impressive African spiced quail appetizer with cranberry chutney and quinoa salad; venison tenderloin with creamed brussel sprouts and roasted butternut squash; and a pumpkin tart with a spicy nut brittle. Break away from tradition with this unique holiday menu! (www.frenchmint.ca) A CHRISTMAS INSPIRED Visit Muse Winery December 11th and 12th for an annual event that allows you
to meet the artists, and enjoy work by sculptors Craig Benson and Paul Harder, painter Barry Tate, photographer Dave Hutchison, glass artist Pauline Olesen, goldsmith Terry Venables and kelp weaver/sculptor Grant Warrington. The winery will also have on hand a wonderful selection of wine gift baskets perfect for clients, hostesses and friends. The Tasting Room will be open throughout the show, so you can leisurely take in the art with a glass in hand. NEW YEAR’S EVE GALA DINNER-DANCE The Sooke Harbour House will be serving an extravagant five course dinner featuring delectable treats and decadent desserts, followed by dancing with Victoria’s live jazz band “LustLife” (lustlife.ca), light snacks and a toast at midnight. Cost is $169.00 per person including live music and dance and not including gratuities and tax. December 31st. (www.sookeharbourhouse.com) THE SIXTH ANNUAL OREGON TRUFFLE FESTIVAL Inspired by the rich, beautiful palette of Italy, with friends from Mondo Tartufo, photographer & filmmaker Douglas Gayeton, author of Slow: Life in a Tuscan Town and more than a dozen of the Northwest’s most acclaimed chefs preparing sumptuous truffle feasts paired with gorgeous Oregon wines. January 28, 29 & 30, 2011. (www.oregontrufflefestival.com)
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THE OCEAN WISE COOKBOOK Editor Jane Mundy reveals the story behind the making of a sustainable seafood cookbook
Cover of the recently published Ocean Wise cookbook
About two years ago I was invited to a Vancouver restaurant that was showcasing its sustainable seafood menu and I had the opportunity to sit next to Mike McDermid, Ocean Wise program manager at the Vancouver aquarium. That's when I got the idea to put together a cookbook inspired by the program. Getting the Ocean Wise cookbook proposal accepted by Whitecap, the publisher, was the easy part of this project because I had a theme - sustainable seafood - that was timely and unique. Mike supplied me with contact info for Ocean Wise restaurants and chefs across Canada, and he was my source for just about all my sustainable seafood questions. The hard part of the project was coordinating contributions from 90 chefs and getting a comprehensive representation of seafood and fishes. Then there was the local versus national focus to consider. Although there were contributions from chefs nationwide, we didn’t consider the possibility of a “national readership” early on, and there were many references to local sourcing of seafood or wine. The recipes, too, leaned heavily on the west coast. Would a reader in Ottawa or Halifax be able to source most west coast fish? I had to come up with substitutes, keeping in mind sustainability, of course. I didn't realize when I started working on the cookbook—more than a year ago now— CONT’D ON THE NEXT PAGE
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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
OOK
king of
how difficult it would be to gather a wide variety of recipes so I didn’t wind up with 50 tuna tartare submissions. I soon found out there are many ways to write a recipe, to – each chef had a different style. (It’s great that a publisher like Whitecap has a style guide to help me tweak each one.) Unlike a pastry chef, I am not a meticulous cook. I'm more the type to add a little of this, chuck in a bit of that. In other words, I don't follow recipes, and neither do most chefs. Nor do they typically write them. As a result, sometimes “Add one cup of olive oil to the pan,” really meant “add one tablespoon.” A lot of phone calls to chefs (never between 11 am and 2 pm or after 5 pm) and emails passed back and forth as we clarified recipes as painstakingly as some chefs clarify butter. As part of their job, chefs crunch numbers—they have to adhere to the bottom line. Even with their mathematics expertise, there was some difficulty cutting the recipes down to size from 60 portions to six. Even after testing the recipes, admittedly I would occasionally neglect to change the amount of salt (yes, 1/4 cup is rather excessive). Thankfully, the Whitecap editors and proofreaders are painstaking. It was also a challenge to find the right balance between adding enough instruction, oversimplifying, and cutting out chunks of the recipe so it wasn't too long and complicated. (Chefs, I hope you aren't offended.) There were other obstacles. Although my friend Kate Zimmerman kept getting a craving for fish when she was proofreading the book, and now claims to have a several-cans-a-week habit, that didn't happen to me. After editing and testing fish recipes day in and day out, I have to admit to the occasional, and unusual, craving for a beef burger. For a while there, in my dreams, I was conversing with Charlie the tuna and dancing with dolphins…. It wasn't all hard—in fact, for the most part, it was a lot of fun and a huge learning curve. I learned that frozen can be better than fresh; that many fish farms are sustainable; and that sea urchin and sardines really are delicious, thanks to the Ocean Wise chefs’ superb recipes. As well, most chefs and Tom Firth at Wine Access took care of all the wine pairing suggestions—thanks again! I also found I had lots of volunteers to help eat—er, test—these dishes. I didn't want the book to sound academic and educational or, alternatively, too glib. The state of our oceans is of grave concern, but it was my job to put together a cookbook and not a lecture. I hope you’ll find it helpful and worthwhile, but I also hope you’ll enjoy yourself cooking your way through it. And I welcome your feedback. —by Jane Mundy left: Page 123 - Andrea Carlson of Bishop’s Qualicum Scallops with Lobster Mushroom, “La Ratte” Potatoes, and Ground Cherries. Photo by Tracey Kusiewicz
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A Local Story. Volunteer pickers from LifeCycles Fruit Tree Project pluck the unused quince from neighbourhood trees each fall. In the Marina kitchen we help them turn it into delicious pastes and bastes, to share with everyone. m o r e f r e s h [ m o r e ta s t e [ m o r e c h o i c e no occasion required.
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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
Stunning Views Lunch • Dinner • Sushi • Sunday Brunch
250-598-8555 1327 Beach Drive at the Oak Bay Marina www.marinarestaurant.com
it
get fresh COOKING BY THE SEASON — by Sylvia Weinstock In winter, my palate craves seasonal root vegetables, cabbage family greens and spicy condiments, which led me to think of presenting a kimchi recipe. This pungent Korean condiment is de rigueur at Korean meals. There are thousands of recipes for this ancient mixture. On www.lovethatkimchi.com I watched a video of a woman making it with Chinese cabbage, handfuls of salt, garlic, ginger, sweet rice flour, green onions, onions, fish sauce, raw oysters and what looked like about two cups of chili powder. Like other fermented foods, kimchi promotes intestinal health because it contains probiotic lactobacilli. It is high in vitamins A, B, and C. Health Magazine named it one of the world’s top five healthiest foods. However, you should be aware it contains a lot of salt.
KIMCHI I like this version because it has plenty of veggies and is simple to make. The longer you allow it to ferment, the more acidic and sour it becomes. It can also be eaten immediately without fermenting and is always eaten cold. Serve it on fried rice, or try Kimchi Bokkeumbap, made with cooked diced meats, veggies and fried rice, topped with fried eggs). Another delicious idea is a lettuce wrap, made by placing cooked rice, bulgogi (Korean barbecued beef ) and kimchi in a large red lettuce leaf. Roll up and munch away. Serves 6 to 8 6 cups of vegetables, including: zucchini, Chinese cabbage, cauliflower, celery, onions, turnips and carrots, cut into small pieces 3 tablespoons salt 4 green onions, finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 1/4 teaspoon crushed, dried chili peppers (or to taste) 1 1/2-inch piece of ginger root, chopped 1 cup water Sprinkle half the salt on the 6 cups of cut up vegetables. Let stand for 15 minutes. Rinse and drain. Combine with remaining salt, green onions, garlic, crushed chili peppers, ginger and water. Ferment in a covered container (it develops a powerful odour) for 2 days in summer, up to 4 days in winter. (If your kitchen is very warm, ferment for less time). Taste the kimchi daily until it is to your liking. Chill before serving.
Seasonal Vegetables Sweet Potatoes. Bake, roast, mash, boil or candy them. Make them into chips in the oven or deep fryer, or create a sweet potato pie. They are the uber-tuber. Spaghetti Squash. This yellow oblong winter squash has golden spaghetti-like strands that can be topped with your favourite sauce. Shallots. Warm up winter meals with these slightly garlicky onion relatives. Broccoli. High in fiber with an abundance of easily absorbed vitamin C, iron, vitamin A as betacarotene, vitamin E, potassium and folic acid and calcium. Brussels Sprouts. They are sweetest after the first frost and taste best when cooked briefly until they are just tender. Their bittersweet taste marries beautifully with salty proscuitto, or with pine nuts, garlic and Parmesan cheese. Cabbage. Try stuffing cabbage leaves with meat, rice, herbs and spices, roll into little packages and bake in sweet and sour tomato sauce. Bell Peppers. Grown in B.C. and loaded with vitamin C.
Seasonal Fruits, Berries and Nuts Cranberries. Fresh ones reappear in November and December in time to partner with roast turkey at festive feasts. Grapefruit and Oranges. December is the best time of the year for citrus fruit. Gold Kiwis. Their taste hints of citrus, melon and peach. Try them in curries, with fish and seafood or atop pavlova. Kumquats and Limequats. Roll these tiny, tart entirely edible citrus fruits to crush their inner cells and release their flavour before eating. They make a colourful garnish for fruit platters, roast turkey or leg of lamb. Mandarin Oranges. They have easy to peel skin and sweet or tart-sweet flesh. Melogold. This pummelo/white grapefruit cross has smooth green to yellow skin and sweet firm flesh. Pomegranates. To release their juice, press firmly as you roll the fruit on a cutting board. Make a small, deep incision in the skin with a knife, insert a straw and sip the tart-sweet nectar. Or hack the beauty in quarters and eat the rubies one by one. Nuts in the Shell. Fresh nuts in their shells first appear in stores in November. Crack up some fun with walnuts, pecans, hazelnuts, almonds and Brazil nuts.
What makes a JD Farms turkey so special? Turkeys on JD Farms, a family-owned turkey farm in the beautiful Fraser Valley, are fed a natural diet of grain, vitamins and minerals without any medication or animal by-products. The turkeys are raised in spacious, well-ventilated barns with free access to fresh water and a constant supply of fresh feed. Special care and diet create the highest quality and exceptional flavour. Market Stores are pleased to offer them for your festive gathering this holiday season.
a www.themarketstores.com
ates At At Quadra Quadra 250 250 381-6000 381-6000 7 A AMAM-11 11 PM 903 Y Yates
125-2401 1252401 C M Millstream illstream a Road Road 250 250 391-1110 391-1110 8 AM-11 AM-11 PM
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11
food matters
— by Julie Pegg
CHRISTMAS Tête-à-Tête Making the day special for just the two of you.
Victoria’s best address just got better… Exclusive events and 20% off privileges
Upcoming events: • •
•
Nov 7 - Lafayette String Quartet Musical Soiree Nov 21 - Apprentice Dinner featuring John Lance and Jeanie Norris Nov 25 - Festival of Trees
Join us today at www.friendsoftheempress.ca
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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
As wine professionals, my husband and I select, retail and pair wine to other folks’ feasts. Christmas week is frenetic. It’s one day off then, while others snack on leftovers, or nurse hangovers and Alka-Seltzer, we are back at the shop for the Boxing Day cleanup. The last thing either of us feels up to with our few spare (!) moments is other people. So for years we’ve chosen to celebrate Christmas à deux. We delight in the holiday and all its trimmings. It’s just that we’ve developed our own ritual, simplifying tradition to suit a stress-free Christmas for two. Perhaps you find yourself in a similar situation or you simply plan to skip the party circuit and groaning board gathering this year. Planning and prepping ahead means smooth sailing. Not a fan of eggnog or mulled wine? Do the retro thing and kick off Christmas with a Manhattan and a Bing Crosby CD. The drink’s amber glow fits the season, and cocktail plus crooner plus a simple spread of charcuterie, assorted olives, cheese and a crusty loaf equals feet up in front of the fire. Homemade soups ready to pluck from the freezer Christmas week free you for organizing your little holiday feast. Easy to concoct French onion soup topped with a thick crouton and oozy Gruyère fills the kitchen with homey aromas. Slice and sauté two large onions in butter until they soften and take on colour. Whisk in a teaspoon or two of flour. Add a good quality purchased, or homemade, beef stock. Simmer for fifteen or twenty minutes. Cool to room temperature and freeze. Thaw, reheat in ovenproof soup bowls and top with toasted country bread and shredded cheese. Run under the broiler until cheese is bubbly. Sushi makes for a laid-back Christmas Eve. Pretty Japanese plates, chopsticks and a few tea-lights about the place add a festive touch to the sashimi, nigiri and goma ae. Enjoy with a crisp craft brew or frizzante prosecco. Luxuriate in a late Christmas morning. Brew a French roast or steep a pot of loose-leaf English Breakfast tea to go with croissants, preserves, maybe a wedge or two of brie or camembert. I fish out a couple of sausage rolls from the batch I make and freeze every year in late November to have with tea and a nip of amontillado sherry. Before noon? Why not? It’s Christmas and you're not roasting turkey for twelve. Putter away an hour or two assembling and polishing your best china, cutlery and wine glasses. Bring out the cloth napkins. Pluck a few sprigs of holly for a centrepiece. Chill and/or decant wine. (Budget for a couple of good bottles.) Listen to CBC seasonal programming. Indulge in a late afternoon pre-prandial nap following a waterfront stroll, rain or shine. This is no time to risk culinary disaster. Opt for duck breasts, simply seared pink (if choosing a whole duck, choose a fat one, cut away the breasts, or ask the butcher to, and confit the legs later). Nap the meat with a fresh cranberry brandy or cherry compote. Side dishes might include a wild mushroom ragout, a fluffy turnip and potato mash, and braised kale or chard. What better occasion for a little pȃté de foie gras? Spread on Wonder Bread toast points and enjoy with a glass of Sauternes or other luscious wine. Or pour a spicy Gewürztraminer to go with thin-slice smoked salmon on Russian rye. A simple butter lettuce salad refreshes the palate between starter and main course. If you can afford it, treat yourselves to good vintage Bordeaux, Chianti Classico Riserva or Rioja. But I think the best match is top-notch Burgundy. The silky, fruit-and-forest flavours of fine French Pinot Noir, gamey rich duck and earthy add-ons were meant for one another. Prefer white wine? Go for a viscous dry Alsace Riesling. Trifle can be concocted two days ahead, except for the cream top note. For a twist on jam and sherry-laced trifle, soak a few cubes of lemon pound cake with dry Madeira in large martini glasses. Spread a fine quality Seville marmalade (homemade or Robertson’s “Golden Shred” Fine Cut), atop the cake and layer with crème anglaise (custard), sliced mandarins and cream whipped with orange zest, then sprinkled with crushed amoretti (almond cookies). Both share the washing up. One washes, one dries, over a chat and a cup of Orange Pekoe. A wedge of Stilton and a glass of port traditionally may round out the evening, but if enough is enough, end off with another cup of tea and a good read. (Doesn’t Santa always leave a book under the tree Christmas morning?) Regardless whether you are neighbours, close friends, siblings or spouses, consider planning a relaxed gourmet dinner for two instead of reserving a swank hotel or booking a sun or slopes escape. You will be pleased you did. Happy holidays to both of you!
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TABLE TOGETHERNESS Children who eat with their families enjoy a buffet of benefits.
“Dinner’s ready, come and eat!” Growing up I heard this refrain on a daily basis. The family meal was de rigueur in our household. It seems my parents were wise to insist upon us sharing our mealtimes. A growing body of research suggests families who eat together benefit in a variety of ways. Let’s take a closer look at the compelling reasons experts have found for saving this declining ritual. A study published in the June 2010 issue of the Journal of Family Psychology echoed numerous previous studies that revealed eating together increases communication and builds stronger and healthier relationships within families. This enhanced communication has a trickle-down effect—a plethora of studies indicate children from families who eat together regularly are: better adjusted and less likely to smoke, drink, take drugs, engage in other risky behaviours or suffer from depression, compared to children who rarely eat with their families. But enjoying regular family meals won’t just make junior better adjusted—it may also improve his scholastic performance. Researchers from notable institutions such as Harvard and Columbia have all discovered that both primary and secondary students get better grades when they eat dinner with their families at least four times per week. This apparent improvement in cognition can even be witnessed in toddlers. Scientists from Harvard conducted a study that found family dinners are more important than play, story time and other family events in the development of language skills in preschoolers. Still not convinced the family meal is a valuable tradition? Consider this—a new study published in the Journal of Nutrition, Education and Behavior found that children given the advantage of sharing family meals have healthier diets than those who are not. Specifically they were found to have better intakes of fruits and vegetables, calcium-rich foods, and a decreased intake of pop, saturated fats and junk food. Not surprisingly, other studies have found that children who regularly dine with at least one parent are less likely to be obese than kids who seldom dine with family members. None of this comes as a surprise to Sydney Massey. The Vancouver-based registered dietician works for the B.C. Dairy Board and is a self-proclaimed cheerleader for the family meal. She is helping lead an initiative launched by the Ministry for Healthy Living and Sport in partnership with the B.C. Dairy Board Foundation called “Better Together.”(www.bettertogetherbc.ca ) “The benefits of regular family meals are so extensive and far reaching we want to make them a possibility for every family and this is the goal of the Better Together campaign,” says Massey. “As many as a third of B.C. families seldom or never eat together and that percentage is rising. The psycho-social and health implications of this can’t be ignored,” she explains. According to Massey, the biggest barrier facing families who want to break bread together is time. “Parents are working harder and longer hours and kids’ schedules are more crowded than ever. In addition, she says, people have an idealized notion of the family meal. “They think it has to be an elaborate production when it doesn’t. Nutritious meals can be fun and easy to prepare.” Reconnecting food and fun in the kitchen and offering family friendly meals is the Better Together website’s mandate. The site has valuable tools to help you plan, execute and prepare meals without stress. You can download/upload recipes and even build your own cookbook. To learn more, visit www.bettertogetherbc.ca. In the meantime, Massey offers the following tips to help you embrace food and each other at mealtimes. 1. Turn off the TV, radio and computer and do not allow texting—all of these have been found to negate the benefits of the family meal. 2. Enlist the help of your children. Set the table together and let them help you prepare the meal. It will make them feel important and they are more likely to eat something they’ve helped prepare. 3. Do not insist a child eat something—simply “offer” it. It often takes repeat exposure to get a child to try something new. 4. Do not bring up contentious issues at the dinner table. The mood should be relaxed. Engage your children in lively conversation. Note: The Dieticians of Canada are designating March 2011 family meal month. They will also be releasing a family-friendly cookbook featuring Canadian cuisine in February 2011.
IT’S 5 O’CLOCK SOMEWHERE At Haro’s we’re reinventing the classics. Try our new Sidney Sidecar or Beacon Avenue Buck, paired with a Cobb salad or pecan crusted brie, classic! Don’t miss out on Thursday’s because we’re cranking up live Sinatra with The Honeycrooners from 6-9 pm.
fresh flavours, casual comfort, genuine service
Make your reservation now! Call 250.655.9700 www.sidneypier.com
www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
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restaurant reporter
EAT
Rebecca Wellmam
A Rebecca Wellmam
Pure Van 250.592.
left: The Relish Burger right: Cilantro, ginger and smoked paprika pork sausages on house made buns Relish Food and Coffee | 920 Pandora Ave. | 250-590-8464 I arrive a few minutes early to Relish and watch as Jamie Cummins methodically stuffs cilantro, ginger and smoked paprika pork sausage meat into hog casing. They’ll be poached and reclining on house-made buns tomorrow or will find their fat selves on the breakfast egg muffins, unless one opts for the house-made bacon instead. Mmm. Relish opened in August for breakfast and lunch (7 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., Monday to Friday). Most everything is house-made: bread, focaccia, scones, bacon, granola, baked good, sausages, gnocchi. And then there is the coffee; Discovery Coffee bean creations on a double-headed Nuova Simonelli. “I want Relish to be as good a coffee shop as a restaurant,” says Jamie Cummins, chef/owner. “I make what I like to eat. If I like it, maybe someone else will too.” He smiles and looks away, self-conscious, earnest and sincere. His lack of affectation is evident in his cooking as well. “I like traditional pairings, not deconstruction cooking or fusion.” His chicken confit, served with bacon, leeks and new potatoes, is a deft example. “The flavours of the ingredients are clear. They go together well.” I can vouch for this. I have now enjoyed it twice. Fall off the bone, rich, salty—perfect cozy winter fare. A Northwest Culinary Academy graduate, Jamie has worked at Mo:Le, Sooke Harbour House, Paprika and Discovery Coffee. Leaning against the wooden bar, Jamie contemplates his restaurant: the exposed brick wall, the high ceilings, his family’s pickling crocks in the small loft above the front door, the terracotta hues of the walls and square stained-glass window. The dish is part of a whole, he says. The room, the setting and the company you are keeping. These components culminate in a beautiful experience that finds its apogee in the meal. This, loosely translated, is Cummins’ food ethos. He finds breakfast and lunch a more relaxed, less calculating medium. Accessible. Affordable. Authentic.
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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
Relish has also solved the matter of the heavy hitting lunch. Gnocchi and burgers aren’t generally what I would indulge in at lunch unless I have fashioned some sort of bed right under the table to snuggle into for the rest of the afternoon. But the gnocchi, today with Romano beans, Japanese turnip and arugula pesto (it was served with arugula, peas and Parmesan when I tried it last), surprised me. There was enough to satisfy, but it was modest, so I could finish without the big meal-end exhale, belt-loosen . I admit I have never bothered with gnocchi. I didn’t get it. I get it now. They are handmade silky soft pillows. The Relish Burger is a wide but fairly thin patty which it is served upon the house-made focaccia which is also thin. I ordered mine with Brie, house-made bacon and of course, relish and finished it all. I was quite full, but again, not KO’d. Delicious. And then there is the location. Relish has free parking, with lots of room for meetings, gatherings, moms with strollers and people-watching on Pandora. Blair Mart, an excellent Middle-eastern/Mediterranean grocery store, is next door, so make time to duck in there for a shop as well. And you can even do a bit of shopping at Relish. Cummins has preserved lemons, cherries and pickles for sale. As we continue to talk, Cummins keeps returning to maintaining the integrity of what he wants to offer while also adapting to individual tastes of his guests. Because, he feels, they are guests, after all. Give the people what they want. “Work with people. It is not about me. Also, the staff are amazing. I could not do it without them. Please mention the staff.” So, all in all, welcome Jamie Cummins and Relish to Victoria’s burgeoning breakfast and lunch scene. Lucky us. I like the word “relish.” It connotes at once both aromatic and emotional pleasure. Appropriate. — Gillie Easdon
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EATING WELL FOR LESS
At Pure Vanilla l: the lemon tart r: Blanc et Noir Pure Vanilla | 6-2590 Cadboro Bay Rd (near Estevan) 250.592.2869 Pure Vanilla has its roots in a Victoria classic; it is owned by the geniuses behind Rebar. This café is peaceful yet alive, light and airy, and attracts a broad range of customers, from parents with babies to business people to friends catching up. The standouts are the salad dressings, whether on salad main dishes or sides. The Apple Pecan Salad with Blue Cheese is a joyous tumble of greens and the aforementioned tasty bits, dressed with a deep, dark balsamic vinaigrette. The Caesar Salad that comes with the pizza is light and lemony, and mellower than the classic version since it uses roasted garlic. The croutons deserve their own special mention, as they manage to be both seeped in butter and crispy at the same time. The pizza is a thin-crust cheese and tomato one, with a bite of jalapeno that asserts but doesn’t bully. Soups and sandwiches and sweets round out the offerings – don’t leave without trying the lemon tart or the ganache concoction called Blanc et Noir.
Thursday - Friday - Saturday
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For your dining pleasure, we serve only &HUWL¿HG $QJXV %HHI ®
Pho-Ever | 1669 Pear St (near Shelbourne) | 250.388.0028 I just had a Korean version of a Chinese dish at a restaurant with a Vietnamese name. This was at Pho-Ever, which is near the increasingly bustling intersection of Shelbourne and Cedar Hill Cross Road. A year ago it was bought by a Korean family, so its menu now has Vietnamese and Korean food, including a couple of offerings in the subcategory of Koreanstyle Chinese. Apparently there are entire restaurants in Vancouver that specialize in this category. Thankfully, I had the help of my colleague Tony Vernon, who lived in Korea for six years, and whose partner is Korean, to help me understand the dishes. First comes classic Korean food in the largest lunch box I have ever seen. I don’t carry a ruler in my purse, but it looked like the bento tray was 16 X 8 inches, and it was stuffed. Different sections held jap-chae, which are glistening sweet potato noodles sprinkled with sesame seeds, a small tower of tempura, a green salad, rice, and a spicy pork teriyaki dish called jeyook bokkum (beef and tofu are other options). This costs $10.95. Another traditional Korean dish is the Jjam Bhong, or Seafood Noodle Soup, also for $10.95. A 10-inch bowl spills over with shrimp, prawns, mussels, squid, carrots, cabbage, onions, broccoli, baby corn – I’ll stop now. It is clear that the soup had not been cooking all day, as can happen, as the veg-
The Sticky Wicket & The Clubhouse at The Strathcona Hotel 919 Douglas Street Victoria BC 250.383.7137 www.strathconahotel.com www.dontmissout.ca
CONT’D ON THE NEXT PAGE
www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
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top s The bento tray holding jap-chae, tempura, a green salad, rice, and jeyook bokkum at Pho-Ever.
Five picks for the season
give the gift of cookbooks 1 2 3 4
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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
5
EVERYONE CAN COOK Slow Cooker Meals by Eric Akis (Whitecap) This popular Victoria author has added another star to his growing series of easy-to-use Everyone Can Cook recipe books. This time the subject is the convenient, countertop slow cooker and how to expand your repertoire beyond what most of us use this appliance for: basic stew or chili. Akis delivers well-tested meat and fish main courses, side dishes—even sauces—formuated for the slow cooker method. Hmm. With dinners this easy, I just might put my feet up and let the slow cooker do all the work! WHISKYPEDIA by Charles MacLean (Herman Graf) Every year someone somewhere writes a book about whisky. This year’s addition is an aphabetical, encyclopedic take on the world’s most revered spirit. Would make a great gift for crime writer Ian Rankin, so Inspector Rebus could bar hop his way from Aberfeldy to Tullibardine. Then again, that would be a fine winter hobby for us wet coasters, too. GO NUTS by Debbie Harding (Touchwood) A whole book dedicated to nut recipes? Brilliant. From savoury to sweet, use these recipes not only for their nutritious benefits but for their easy to love flavours. Check out the cool Nut Pairing Guide. I can’t wait to try the Lemon Hazelnut Fettucine Alfredo or the Buttery Walnut Slice recipe. STAFF MEALS by David Waltuck from Chanterelle (Workman) Always imagined the staff at restaurants ate well? Of course they do. And none better than the staff at the fine dining, NYC restaurant Chanterelle. Look for Black Bean Stew with Pig Parts, Thai Duck Curry, Corn Dogs and Spiced-up Honey Cake. Let the customers have the foie gras I’ll take the pre-shift staff nosh anytime! HOLIDAY CUPCAKES by Annie Rigg (Ryland, Peters & Small) No Virginia, the cupcake craze isn’t dead yet. Cute, over-the-top and guiltfree wee cakes in Christmas designs and colours.
Rebecca Wellmam
Rebecca Wellmam etables still had life in them. My newest addiction is Ggan Poong Gi, or, for your convenience, item S6, apparently a favourite among the Korean clientele there. This is a ChineseKorean dish, and it is basically a really good General Tso’s chicken, with a great balance of sour, sweet, and spicy, and is crispy, not goopy. This costs $14.95, but don’t bristle – it is enormous and meant to be shared. Four people could order two dishes on the entrees menu and be full, so a large and varied meal could easily be had for $10 to $12. Go there!
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Aubergine Specialty Foods is open Monday to Saturday from 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Sundays from 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. at 1308 Gladstone Ave., 250-590-1031, www.auberginefoods.ca.
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Fernwood foodies are thrilled to welcome Leon Zetler to the ’hood. When I visited Leon Zetler at his gourmet food shop in September, he had only been open for two weeks. The newly renovated store was crammed with parents, kids and neighbourhood peeps thrilled to finally have a grocery store nearby. The new Aubergine has the same focus as Zetler’s previous Aubergine shop, which he ran for three years on Cadboro Bay Road: local produce, cheese, breads and meats, organic and kosher foods, as well as unusual items from South Africa, England and Italy. A beautiful antique coffee grinder, which Zetler uses to grind organic fair trade beans from Ethiopia, Tanzania and Kenya, sits next to a state-of-the-art coffee roaster at the front of the store. Zetler is the go-to guy for South African foods on Vancouver Island. “The cuisine has East Indian, Malaysian and Indonesian influences,” Zetler explains, pointing to shelves of spices and other treats from his homeland, such as biltong (coriander-spiced preservative-free beef jerky) and boerewors (spicy farmer’s sausage). In the freezer, plump kosher chickens (the most flavourful chickens you will ever taste) nestle next to Cowichan Bay Seafood (including spot prawns and seafood chowders), sausages from the popular Fernwood restaurant Stage and handmade organic Salt Spring gelato. An array of cheeses from Nanaimo’s Paradise Island and Courtenay’s Natural Pastures as well as Slater’s Meats, seasonal produce and other cool delicacies run the length of the store. “I go to Saanich farms several times a week to choose the produce myself,” says Zetler. Aubergine carries house-made Moroccan-influenced appetizers, including baba ghanoush, carrot salad, roasted pepper salad, fennel salad and garlic-laced leek filets that melt in your mouth. A variety of sweets awaits the after-school and munchies crowd. A young mother and her kids, who were standing by the register with a basketful of Aubergine goodies, summed up Fernwood’s delight in the new store: “Everyone has been so excited. This is exactly what we needed. We don’t have to go anywhere else to shop.” —Sylvia Weinstock
cap) wing series of ubject is the ur repertoire or chili. Akis ishes—even dinners this the work!
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Eames Hang It-All Herman Miller Select 2010 Edition of the original 1953 Eames Hang-It-All reinterprets the classic with solid walnut hooks against a black frame.
This limited edition collector item is in stock, and makes a great gift!
589 Bay St, Victoria | 250-384-2554 Visit us online www.gabrielross.com
Geo www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
17
epicure at large
— by Jeremy Ferguson
CHINA WATCHING Our favourite dauntless traveller looks back on twenty-eight years of dining in The People's Republic of China Arriving for the first time in China 28 years ago, I found a land on the brink of the most radical journey in its 5,000 years of recorded history. Mao was dead and laid out in a crystal coffin, recalling a most unappetizing buffet, in a Tiananmen Square mausoleum. Deng Xiaoping, seizing power in Beijing, had just begun to transform China into the powerhouse it is today. But China was still backward and impoverished. And its legendary cuisine had been all but lost in the tumultuous years of the Chinese Revolution and then the Cultural Revolution. My first taste of Chinese food in China was a fly. On a stormy flight to Chongqing on the Yangtze River, the “flight hostess” in a baggy Mao suit swatted it into my teacup. From that point on, it got worse. On the fringe of the Silk Road, it was wok-fried camel hoof. The “hoof ” was the gelatinous goo therein. As the dining room’s ceiling fan spun, the goo shimmied and shook on the plate. When I managed to lift it with chopsticks, it wobbled obscenely, slipped off and landed with an audible plop. It was in Guizhou, the poorest province in China, that I discovered canine cuisine. Severed hindquarters, tails upright, the equivalent of golden arches, marked an entire street of dog restaurants. It made sense, I supposed: the chef whistles and the groceries deliver themselves. The eateries, happily, weren’t serving at three in the afternoon. I wasn’t much up for fettuccine al Fido. (Incidentally, China installed a ban on dog and cat restaurants earlier this year.) There was the occasional pleasant surprise. In Guanxi Province in the Chinese south, I was treated to a local specialty of deep-fried queen bee larvae, the fat little slugs fried golden-brown, their eyes poking through the paper-thin batter. They tasted like cashew nuts. I tucked into them like a bear into a honey pot. The rest was an onslaught of grease and MSG. Gawd, the grease: the dishes surfed on it. Noodles arrived writhing in grease, vegetables glimmering with grease, deep-fry oozing grease. The MSG left my eyeball ricocheting in their sockets. But life ultimately changed at the dizzying pace that defines modern China. The gastronomic dragon has awakened. Bite by bite, chefs have revived and finessed the cuisine of their ancestors. Nor is this renewal of foodiedom confined to the kitchens of luxury hotels. It has hit the streets, a populist phenomenon on a rip. The Chinese are again echoing the venerable greeting, “Have you eaten today?” One Beijing restaurant specializes in recipes from the court of the Manchus, the last Chinese emperors. A restaurant in the old capital of Xi’an boasts a dim sum menu of 800 items. At the food court of a modern department store, shop girls in short skirts, tailored blouses and silk ties line up at 20 concessions offering à la minute Chinese cooking, hundreds of dishes for about a loonie a plate. The proletariat slurps pork-packed pot stickers, crisp spring rolls and Sichuan eggplant roaring with chilies and bricks of garlic. A foreigner can try 20 new dishes for as many dollars. The food courts of Canadian atria might shutter their doors in shame. China continues to revere and refine regional cuisines. My preference is Sichuan. Dinner in Chengdu kicks off with kung pao chicken festooned with cashew nuts and dried chilies. Shrimps are stripped from the head down and dunked naked into a bath of chilies, garlic and soy. Sichuan pork arrives so tender, it topples from the rib-bone in a shower of red and green chilies, coriander and chives, incendiary flavours hopscotching across the stations of the palate. Not everything blows the lid off your head. Amazingly fragrant jasmine tea is Sichuan. Lima beans, deep-fried and sprinkled with salt, and shockingly delicious, are Sichuan. Deep-fried tofu, reminiscent of fresh scallops, in a subtle orange sauce is Sichuan. Savoury salad of walnut flower and smoked pork is Sichuan. Foreign friends are much honoured. Cook it and they will come. Even the wonderful Shanghai Museum addresses the itinerant foodie. Its exquisite bronze wine and food vessels speak to us across the millennia from the Shang Dynasty. And how about that jacket and trousers made entirely of salmon skin? I’m not much of a fashion plate, but it’s the only time I’ve ever hungered for a suit.
250-384-8550
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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
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Its exquisite Dynasty. And uch of a fash-
chefs talk— compiled by Ceara Lornie WRAPPED UNDER THE TREE OR A TREAT JUST FOR YOU, THE ALL-CLAD PETIT ROTI ROASTER IS THE PERFECT GIFT FOR ANY COOK.
WE ASK: “What is your favourite high-tech kitchen tool?” Ken Nakano - The Fairmont Empress 250.384.8111 Since I've hovered over an induction cooker with a temperature probe and a wooden spoon for so many years to do my sous vide cooking, I would have to say it's the immersion circulator. Such a time saver; you do your time and temperature calculations, set it and walk away. You get way better control and results. This leaves more time to play with all the beautiful products arriving at our door. Peter Zambri - Zambri’s 250.360.1171 Well, this may sound outrageous, but I have always had an answer on this "high tech" issue. In my opinion the most high tech instrument EVER created is the human body. The most important high tech tools we have are our senses: smell, touch, hearing, sight and of course taste. Without our five senses there is no way we could use any gadgetry to our advantage. Ben Peterson - Heron Rock Bistro 250.383.1545 I can't speak for the other guys, but the hand-blender is my fave. We use it every day. It beats the hell out of a whisk and only cost $8 next door at Superchance. Matt Rissling - The Marina Restaurant 250.598.8555 My favourite high tech tool would have to be our 3 HP Vita-Prep blender. After years and years of working with bar blenders and London Drugs blenders, getting a proper commercial one was a real treat. It turns just about everything into velvet, including Brian Bradley's famous 'green drinks'. Jet engine noises are a bonus! Money very well spent. Christabel Padmore - The Little Piggy 250.483.4171 I’m enjoying the heat proof temperature probe my husband Patrick rigged up for our pig roaster. It’s taken all the guess work out of cooking a pig because we don’t have to open up the box to inspect the pig for doneness during cooking. It makes the whole process faster too—about three hours for a perfectly golden brown and crispy pig. Lawrence Munn - Cafe Brio 250.383.0009 High tech is great, and we have an immersion circulator, refractometer, ph meter, and various other goodies to make kitchen life more exact and rewarding. However the day we received our chamber vacuum machine, instead of going on about its virtues and playing with it, I couldn't stop talking about our Sklips that we recieved at the same time. These are low-tech clips that attach to sheet pans to create shelving and stacking that can be used anywhere and also carried. These things are the s**t. Mike Weaver - Lure Seafood Restaurant and Bar 250.360.5873 I don't have one yet, but I foresee it in my near future. It is the Thermomix. It’s basically a blender/mixer that has an integrated timer, scale and heater. You can make sorbet in under a minute, perfectly temper chocolate, make purees by cooking and blending all in one container. So many uses. Check out this website www.easycooking.ca Anna Hunt - Paprika 250.592.7424 I am a fairly low- tech cook but would say that my favorite piece of equipment in the kitchen is my ice cream machine. Not so hi-tech, but you do have to plug it in to use it. Mmmmmmm ice cream Genevieve Laplante - Sips 250.590.3519 My cell phone! I can send sweet text messages to Lou (Zambri’s) when we're both working too much and are too busy to see much of each other. I can also keep all my suppliers and staff numbers handy, and I can harass our restaurant manager with ease. Matt Thompson - Bistro Caché 250.652.5044 My favorite hi-tech kitchen tool is my ice cream/sorbet machine because it allows us to make a superior product at a reasonable price compared to what is commercially available. Although if high-carbon steel is high-tech, then I would have to say my 10-inch French knife because I use this knife all day and night and it never lets me down or calls in sick. Alison Bigg and Jena Stewart - Devour 250.590.3231 When Jena and I moved into our 450 square foot space we were thrilled there was a gas oven. That's about as high-tech as it gets and we like it that way; the more hands-on the better. I love my wooden spoons and Jena loves her baby whisk. —Alison Cory Pelan – La Piola 250- 388-4517 High tech? I guess for me that’s something that has a cord and plug attached to it. My favourite, by far, is my 30 year old Bottene pasta extruder. Every day she faithfully produces all of the pasta we use at the restaurant with the exception of any stuffed products. Those we make by hand with the help of a very low tech hand crank pasta roller. The Bottene is truly an amazing piece of technology that hasn’t changed for decades and aside from aesthetics, is still made exactly the same way today. (Nice if you need to find parts) It was certainly high tech when it was designed and the fact that it’s ultra simple design hasn’t changed since, makes it pure genius.
With its stunning looks and solid stainless construction, the All-Clad 14” Petit Roti will be loved all year long. Large enough for a rack of lamb along with a large batch of roasted vegetables, the 14” Roti, with its included non-stick roasting rack, is also great for a small turkey or chicken.
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www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
19
food + travel
forag
TEA
Tea plants a Cowichan V
Ferique Brown
APPLE TREE ON WAVE HILL FARM A new by-appointment-only restaurant thrives on Salt Spring Island
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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
“Duck fat,” Mirjana whispers, a mischievous twinkle in her eye. This is the socca’s secret. This flatbread, sometimes referred to as a “chickpea crêpe,” is found primarily in southeastern France around Nice. Mirjana’s is laced with goat cheese and lemon. It arrives atop an organic lamb ragout. Bones in. Soaking up the gravy, sucking on the bones; deep into Salt Spring lamb. Welcome to the Apple Tree on Wave Hill Farm, Salt Spring Island, Mirjana Vukman and Mark Whitear’s new restaurant at Rosalie Beach 115-acre organic farm. With luck, you might have encountered Mirjana at Cucina, Abkhazi Gardens or Pomodori, to name a few. This Condon Bleu chef and her cooking are unforgettable. Her following is loyal. Wave Hill Farm, which has belonged to Beach and Whitear since 1990, is home to Salt Spring’s oldest apple orchard, dating back to about 1863. Appropriately named, the Apple Tree at Wave Hill Farm is found in a farm building up a set of stairs—an open space with a balcony that offers up the orchard. During my visit, the room was adorned with mint and fig boughs, which added to the feeling of being amid the trees. “You know a fig is ripe when it feels like a woman’s breast,” Rosalie shares. For those who frequented Cucina, Mirjana’s restaurant in Dragon Alley in Victoria, you will encounter the same black, white and stainless steel streamlined design, but it exudes a tone of simplicity here rather than urban minimalism. And really, the farm, resplendent with lambs, chickens, aubergines, peppers, pendulous figs, tomatoes, apples, delicatas, tromboncinis, purple yams, potatoes and greens, engulfs the restaurant, providing a magnificent, alive and ever-changing context. So abundant are the apples at Wave Hill Farm, they are exploring establishing a farmgate still to make calvados and cider. Rosalie also supplies David Wood at Salt Spring Island Cheese with flowers and rosemary. Back to the meal. The salad is a spilt kaleidoscope of orach, chicory, purple yam, basil, lemon thyme and upland crest. The salad is a crisp, lively companion to the far more serious lamb. It is a celebration whereas the lamb is more of a rich discussion, a focused study. “If anything smells good, it is because of animal fat and butter,” Mirjana declares. “I have bags of many different fats in the fridge.” Wave Hill Farm also has a few cabins, designed by Ferique, now an architect in London, England. They are a fitting addition, but also a testament to the need that farms have to diversify in order to sustain themselves. The cabins, decorated in white, wood and oyster shells, are rustic but well-appointed. Trip over to Salt Spring, private dinner, perhaps a tour of the farm, then retire to your cabin for a nightcap and a rest? Top of my list, Santa. Apple Tree’s focus is dinner, but they are “available for anything food-related.” I am thinking about this, after the lamb, the socca and the salad, as Mirjana advances with dessert. Well, if you insist. Green walnut and fig baklava with chocolate truffle. White chocolate sauce pools gracefully on the earthenware plate. Mirjana has three generations of ceramics by Canadian artist Patricia Larsen that she has kept from her last few restaurants. The dessert presentation is exquisite. The ingredients, all organic and local, are also exquisite. And the flavours, too. Exquisite. Every time I sample Mirjana’s creations I feel it is as though she has plunged her hands into the soul of each ingredient bring them alive to spark each dish. I don’t spend the night this time but wander back on the afternoon ferry. I always forget how easy the trip to Salt Spring Island. This time I think it might have sunk in properly, thanks be to the carrier agent, duck fat. —Gillie Easdon Salt Spring Island | 250-653-4150
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TEA BY TWO
Tea plants are delicate, fickle and prefer warm climes. But two intrepid growers in the Cowichan Valley are pioneering the crop in Canada.
Ferique Brown
FARM
forager
“Margit Nellemann and Victor Vesely of teafarm, Cowichan Valley tea-growing pioneers.” “The plants take three years to grow, so we are tentative,” confides Margit Nellemann. “Will they make it through the winter? We don’t know.” The 200 tea plants lining the path to the tea bar, drying room and studio were a couple of feet high in early September when I visited. Leaves a tender green, the plants were like colts, young, gawky but healthy. “We both like challenge and risk and [the tea plant] is very sensitive to climate, geography and soil, like wine. If it takes, the flavour will really reflect the region,” continues Nellemann. “There are no mentors around, and the area will have its own pests, bugs and challenges.” The tea industry is said to be the third most labour-intensive, after saffron and vanilla. The couple also grow lavender, calendula, hops, mint, elderberry, stinging nettle and other flora to blend with source estate-grown fair trade organic teas from India, Nepal (hand-rolled), China (old-growth, hand-picked), Japan and other countries. Minty Nettle is a basic digestif, the stinging nettle grounding the peppermint. Lovely. Mysteaque, with licorice root, calendula, peppermint and lemongrass, offers a sip in chapters. Lemongrass on the nose, then a lot of licorice. The peppermint is subdued but enduring, and the calendula adds bitterness. Delicious cold on a hot day. The Tiger Blend is bold and would marry well with a dense spiced cake or as a chai with a generous brunch. The Assam, Ceylon, Yunnan, cinnamon, ginger, orange peel and calendula make for a heavy, heady brew. Nellemann and Vesely are creating a full Chinese Zodiac parade for the new year (2010 is the year of the tiger, 2011 is the year of the rabbit), which would make a great gift. The couple moved to this eleven-acre patch in the Cowichan Valley seven years ago, “to this place that fills our passion and that we can share,” says Vesely with enthusiasm. “I know it sounds corny, but the land does want to be shared … not ‘slam the gate, keep it to yourself,’” says Nellemann. This dovetails nicely with the culture and aesthetic of tea. It is for sharing. It is an event. You make a pot of tea, generally, not just a single cup. Nellemann is originally from Denmark, an artist who works in clay. “Her work is decorative and functional,” says Vesely. She combines coiling and slab work to create vases, bowls, platters, sculpture, murals and, also of note, teapots, teacups and mugs. She adds “little secrets” to her teapots; a design on the inside fitting of a lid, or at the bottom of the pot. She refers to “tattooing,” her own term for injecting colour in the clay with needles, “putting colour in, not uncovering.” I found her work rustic, elegant and convivial. I trundle onto the property, and once the car is parked, notice an inviting table sporting vases of sunflowers off to the side of the field. This is where I enjoy a sampling of teas, wrapping my lips and hands around Nellemann’s artwork. The bottom half of my tea cup is rough, milk-chocolate brown and conducts heat well into my palms. The top half is smooth and glazed electric blue, less warm but still imparting some of the tea’s heat. Drinking teafarm’s tea from their handmade cups somehow fleshes out the experience, making it more palpable, more textured. I settle deeper into my own bones here. Welcomed into their home, with their teas, with their self-hewn vessels. I have no idea how long I have been here. Nellemann explored Middle Eastern tea culture in her travels and had a particular affinity for the Moroccan style of tea house, which she looks to incorporate in the tea room they are currently building, “No doilies,” jokes Vesely. “Lots of pillows,” adds Nellemann. He is from Montreal and spent time travelling through Asia. They met in Vancouver. Their collective intellect and zeal is bright and easy. They have the traveller’s energetic and engaged demeanour that is so familiar and cherished from my own international travel days. For those who wish to sample their teas, but who are not so keen to road-trip in the winter, the two are in the process of setting up their online store. In the meantime, you can purchase a selection of their teas at Plenty (1034 Fort St., Victoria.) At the time of writing, Cowichan’s Pearl Chocolate was also working with teafarm to produce tea-infused truffles. Nellemann will also be doing a draw for one of her teapots in honour of International Tea Day, recognizing the poor working conditions of many tea pickers. Visit their website at teafarm.ca for details. As our visit comes to close, I ask, “Making teapots is hard, and making tea is hard. What do you do to relax?” They look at one another affectionately and laugh. —By Gillie Easdon teafarm 8350 Richards Trail, North Cowichan www.teafarm.ca; online store coming soon www.margitnellemann.com 250-748-3811
The new Talea. Welcome your customers to a new era of enjoyment with a whole world of coffees always right at hand. A statement in modern coffee technology: Touch2Cappuccino, a digital display with Touch-Ring and Saeco Brewing System SBS. Discover more delights for your business. www.saeco-talea.com
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21
sustainability file
Chefs are often the harbingers of what’s to come... and what will be on our plates next year. So, when 500 of the country’s top chefs meet for a summit, it’s worth paying attention to what they say.
To eat local, cook local — by Gary Hynes
I’m at beautiful Providence Farm near Duncan in the Cowichan Valley; one of only a few journalists allowed in to witness this historic gathering. Over five hundred Canadian chefs and delegates have travelled to BC for the 2nd Canadian Chefs’ Congress (CCC). Despite the threat of unseasonable September rains, many attendees pitch tents and plan to camp outdoors in the fields and woods—wanting to re-connect with the land. A giant barbecue has been set up and two 200-pound pigs, supplied by Sloping Hill Farm outside Qualicum Beach are already being carefully watched over by Rob Belcham of Refuel Restaurant and Adam Protter, a barbecue champion from Whistler. Everyone lines up holding his or her mess kit (a canvas messenger bag containing an inexpensive aluminum plate, knife, fork, spoon and cup). We are told to guard it with our lives—“Lose your kit and you won’t be eating (or drinking). There are no paper plates or glasses on site. We don’t plan on adding to the local landfill after this weekend is over.” And if the message of a green weekend still isn’t clear, imagine a multi-bucket wash-up area where the best chefs in the country are hand-washing their own dirty dishes. Another organizer grabs a mic and gets up on stage to welcome the delegates. “Everyone,” he shouts above the noise of the hungry crowd, “we have lots of beer and you won’t be able to drink us dry no matter how hard you try.” Everyone cheers. The mood is set for the weekend to come. The congress is as much a fête as it is conference. These chefs are celebrating what it is
To listen to the podcast recorded live at the Canadian Chefs Congress go to the EAT website scroll down and click on EAT Out Loud www.eatmagazine.ca 22
EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
to be profess while sharing few days is w best food pre about this w seen pillagin Over the we geness Crab province and Island Harves Canadian che and breadth ident Ken Na steamed per artic tundra from Lisa Ahi fêves au lard with preserve Canadian ing The congre Canadian che production a most beautif food comes f and to tackle solve problem Canadian foo Planning fo Restaurant, a rant, about tw Vij put in a bi son steering theme “Ocea Committee stage, and th how we, as c community o is a great opp cerns us. This Committee gether and s highlights fo coming in on they were. Th are doing is b “Chefs hav of what you c olive oil, bals in recipes, w buys these in having been itoba, I migh radar, it does nity. That’s w Between th eco-challeng ence’s quest carbon footp chefs can tel “We are for sors, “says C and shellfish tle bivalves a then you get On the last We talked su kind of held h Nova Scotia o we are all in t
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an Valley;
Over five hunn Chefs’ Conendees pitch nect with the y Sloping Hill b Belcham of veryone lines xpensive alulives—“Lose asses on site. the message here the best er grabs a mic e the noise of dry no matter me. ing what it is
to be professional cooks, excited to talk shop and have a great time cooking and eating while sharing their war stories. Hell, for these people, just getting out of the kitchen for a few days is wonderful, let alone being in the middle of a rainforest, sampling some of the best food prepared by their colleagues from across in Canada. If the general public knew about this weekend I’ll bet the gates would be stormed and ravenous foodies would be seen pillaging the cooking stations. Trust me, the food is that good. Over the weekend, there are five main eating occasions: the “Firelight Pig Roast and Dungeness Crab” feast, the “Best of the Country” showcase luncheon (representing each province and territory), the “Welcome To BC” sustainable seafood dinner, the “Vancouver Island Harvest” lunch, and the “Wines of the Okanagan” finale dinner. In all, over fifty topCanadian chefs work to prepare over fifty different small bite dishes that explore the width and breadth of the new Canadian food experience. We eat Island Chef Collaborative President Ken Nakano’s sake-cured spawn on kelp with cold-smoked albacore tuna, beersteamed periwinkles from Jesse Vergen of Saint John, New Brunswick, grilled caribou with artic tundra berry sauce from Andrew Gilbutowicz of Nunavut and spot prawns and grits from Lisa Ahier of Tofino’s Sobo. There’s also bison short ribs, hazelnut and pork sausage, fêves au lard, Little Wing oysters, smoked halibut chowder, lobster dumplings, duck rolls with preserved vegetables, goat curd and mini musk-ox burgers— an amazing line-up of allCanadian ingredients. The congress was Ontario chef Michael Stadtländer’s brainchild, who thought it was time Canadian chefs got together. “We are living in changing times,” he says, “where food, food production and safety is on the everyday agenda. We are not just chefs trying to put the most beautiful visuals and tastes on the plate anymore. It’s important to know where our food comes from—how we can connect with farmers, gardeners, foragers and fishers— and to tackle issues like sustainability. As chefs, we need to address these challenges, solve problems, get to know each other and be a part of creating a much more distinct, Canadian food society.” Planning for the 2nd CCC began two years ago when Vancouver chefs Robert Clark, of C Restaurant, and Vikram Vij, of Vij’s, were invited to Stadtländer’s Eigensinn farm and restaurant, about two hours north of Toronto, for the first CCC. Upon returning home, Belcham and Vij put in a bid to hold the second congress in British Columbia. It was accepted. A 10-person steering committee made up of chefs and food activists from BC was put together, the theme “Oceans For Tomorrow” was picked, and the work to make it all happen began. Committee co-chair Robert Clark says, “It’s BC’s turn in the spotlight on the national stage, and the time is now for BC chefs to talk about the health of our oceans, to discuss how we, as chefs, impact our environment, and to articulate what steps we will take as a community of chefs that can have a positive impact on the oceans. For BC chefs, the CCC is a great opportunity because it will allow us to tell the rest of the country what most concerns us. This congress won’t come back here for 25 years.” Committee co-chair Vikram Vij is equally excited. “Bringing all the young chefs here together and showing them the quality of our foods was crucial in the planning. One of the highlights for me this weekend was driving from here to Comox and picking up the chefs coming in on the small planes from Nunavut and the NW Territories. Seeing how excited they were. They’ve never been to this part of the world or this far west in Canada. What we are doing is bridging the gap between regions.” “Chefs have a huge influence on the direction of food,” Clark continues. “Every example of what you can find in your cupboard that is special, high quality or unique—fleur de sel, olive oil, balsamic vinegar—is there because chefs use these items. They cook with them in recipes, which are printed in magazines and books, and then the public goes out and buys these ingredients because they want to mimic these recipes. Chefs will leave here having been exposed to a lot things they probably weren’t aware of. If I was a chef in Manitoba, I might not be as aware of the issues surrounding seafood because it’s not on my radar, it doesn’t touch my everyday life or the life of the people in my immediate community. That’s why our theme “Oceans for Tomorrow” is so important.” Between the dinners and the lunches, chefs attend workshops designed to explore the eco-challenges they are facing. Panels of experts give talks that are followed by the audience’s questions. Discussions with varied ideas and solutions on topics ranging from the carbon footprinting of fisheries, to what to do about all the plastic in the oceans, to how chefs can tell the sustainability story to their customers abound. “We are fortunate in the support we have received from all our sustainable seafood sponsors, “says Clark. “The BC Shellfish Growers Association have given phenomenal support and shellfish aquaculture is such a green way to approaching farming seafood. Those little bivalves are just perfect—you put them in clean water and they take care of themselves, then you get to enjoy them. On the last day, Vikram Vij has the last word: “What have I learned out of this congress? We talked sustainability and seafood, yeah. But more than that, we communicated and kind of held hands and did teambuilding. We are not just the cooks of British Columbia or Nova Scotia or Ontario, we are the chefs of Canada and we need to portray to the public that we are all in this together. We have an important message – “don’t mess with us”.
Real Food Local Sustainable
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Bring your friends, family or office party to Paprika Bistro this season
Reservations | 250.592.7424 dinner served from 5 pm, 7 nights a week www.paprika-bistro.com | 2524 Estevan Ave | Victoria | BC
www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
23
Chef Pino Posteraro of Cioppino’s salt cod (Baccalà) dish.
B s t “ o Tracey Kusiewicz
Feast of the seven fishes A medieval southern Italian ritual makes an exciting alternative to turkey and the trimmings. By Sandra McKenzie
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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
C
arols, cards and sentimental television specials notwithstanding, Christmas dinner can pose a dilemma in many homes. Families blended through two or more marriages, or two or more cultures, don’t necessarily see eye-to-eye on the traditional feast. Throw in a vegetarian or two, or a celiac with carb issues, and you may well have a recipe for chaos, rather than celebration. So for some of us, it may be time to toss the turkey and seek out an alternative ritual. Because our household comprises a pescatarian and a carnivore, and our circle of friends encompasses a variety of cultures and diets, our mid-winter festivities focus on something other than a big bird surrounded by root vegetables. For us, one attractive possibility is the southern Italian tradition of the Feast of the Seven Fishes, or La Vigilia, on Christmas Eve. Why seven? Some theories hold that the number signifies the seven days of creation, while others maintain that it commemorates the seven sacraments. And some Italian households celebrate with 12 or 13 individual fish dishes. Calabrian-born chef Pino Posteraro of Cioppino’s in Yaletown insists the tradition calls for 13 fishes, one for each of the 12 disciples, plus Christ. Whatever the number, the feast is solidly rooted in the medieval Catholic custom of mandatory fasting (refraining from meat or dairy products) on Christmas Eve before the midnight Mass ushers in the holy birth. Chef Pino recalls that humble fish such as cod, mackerel, sardines, mullet, anchovies and eel, all plentiful in the surrounding seas, were the main components of his family’s vigil dinner. Chief among the must-havedishes were baccalà, a labour-intensive preparation of salted cod that has been soaked for six days, with frequent changes of water, then fried or prepared in a tomato sauce with black olives. In keeping with the theme of humility, seasonal vegetables such as potatoes, cauliflower and beet salad, along with at least two pasta dishes, usually spaghetti with anchovies and breadcrumbs, and a short pasta such as rigatoni, sometimes served with the salted cod or a simple marinara sauce, rounded out the meal. These days chef Pino keeps the tradition alive, serving a similar feast to his own children before midnight Mass. “It’s a lot of courses,” he concedes, “but we keep portions small. The important thing is that everyone should taste 13 dishes.” While the Feast of Seven Fishes isn’t widespread in North America, the tradition thrives among some second-generation Italian families. My friend Louise Brescia, who has adopted Chiffonade as her nom de cuisine, is an example. As proud of her southern Italian heritage as she is of her formidable kitchen skills, she remembers that her mother’s Vigilia always included lobster, even in the lean years. “If we had to live on Wonder Bread and tuna fish the rest of the year, there’d be lobster stuffed with crab on Christmas Eve,” she recalls. In her turn, Chiffonade has introduced the seven-course feast to a wide circle of friends. Planning and executing such a complex meal is a tour de force, she notes. Because seafood is highly perishable, not much can be done in advance. In her home, festivities
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Before the meal begins, she advises guests to pace themselves. “This is a big meal, with a lot of courses”
start with crabmeat hors d’oeuvres, followed by a pasta. “For most of my life it’s been a choice of linguini with white clam sauce (no cheese!) or spaghetti puttanesca with anchovies.” Other courses might include baked clams (clams oreganata), baked mussels, sautéed scallops or baked shrimp with breadcrumbs and a spoon or two of tomato sauce. The star attraction of the meal is a whole baked lobster, stuffed with crabmeat, which counts as two of the requisite seven fishes. If her schedule permits, baccalà, usually in a salad of peppers, onions and parsley, or fried into fritters, is a welcome addition. Before the meal begins, she advises guests to pace themselves. “This is a big meal, with a lot of courses, so portions are small so that everyone can have a taste of everything.” For Christmas Day itself, she takes a break from cooking and visits friends. Though it’s not technically traditional, Chiffonade’s Boxing Day ritual of transforming seafood leftovers into a rich, creamy risotto is nearly as beloved as the original feast. For journalist, broadcaster and all-round foodie Don Genova, a second-generation Italian, the Feast of the Seven Fishes came as a revelation four years ago, in Rome. “My mother’s idea of seafood was fish sticks on Friday,” he says. In other Italian households, the feasting began after Mass and featured more rabbit than seafood, he adds. “But in Rome, an acquaintance invited us to Christmas Eve dinner, where the standout dishes included smoked salmon and something called stoccafisso, a type of dried cod. I really appreciated being able to share a meal like that with an Italian family. The whole experience is a cherished memory now.” At home in the Cowichan Valley, Genova has added a few seafood courses to his Christmas repertoire. “They usually consist of raw oysters, raw or smoked albacore, and salmon I hot-smoke myself with a coating of sesame oil, maple sugar, lemon juice and hot pepper flakes. There are seldom any leftovers.” While some families might threaten insurrection at the notion of tampering with the traditional Christmas turkey, others, like us, may find room at the table for a taste of Italy. We’re not purists, so there probably won’t be seven fishes on offer. And we might well incorporate an Indian or Thai-influenced dish or two. But whatever ends up on our menu, the food will be cooked with love and care and with an eye to sharing with joy. And that, I’m pretty sure, is what Christmas is all about.
www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
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Peti te P otte Con d Sa f i t Du l Cho rizo ck S mon lide and rs Po Yam Crispy K tato Po p &P rosc ale Chip pers iutto s B is c u it B ites Everybody loves to eat tiny, delicate hors d’oeuvres yet making them often requires Herculean effort or a personal chef. Best solution is somewhere in the middle. Let’s call it the “Frenchwoman’s secret” – you simply buy good quality, ready-made staples from you local butcher, baker and deli (or even favourite restaurant), then assemble with a few home cooked additions. And remember to practice the art of the simplicity – less fuss, more beauty.
Recipes and food styling by JENNIFER DANTER • Photography by MICHAEL TOURIGNY • Cocktails by Solomon Siegel • Wine pairing by TREVE RING
PETITE POTTED SALMON These restaurant-style salmon pots are made using store-bought hot smoked salmon (try FAS). It’s a great make ahead when party planning or to give as a hostess gift. 1/3 cup unsalted butter 1 lemon 1 bay leaf 1/2 lb hot smoked salmon 2 to 3 chunks candied salmon, flaked 3 Tbsp coarsely chopped cilantro 1/2 cup crème fraiche Place butter in a small saucepan. Peel a thick strip from lemon and add along with bay leaf. Melt over low heat until clear liquid separates from creamy solids. Set aside. Crumble salmon into a bowl. Squeeze in juice from lemon. Stir in crème fraiche and cilantro. Spoon into small mason jars. Discard lemon and bay from butter. Carefully pour off clear liquid over salmon leaving the solids behind. Refrigerate until chilled, then cover with lids. Store up to 2 days. To serve, bring to room temperature and garnish with candied salmon.
CONFIT DUCK SLIDERS Leave making confit to the pros and buy it. Stage Wine Bar and Choux Choux Charcuterie make excellent confit, which transforms with a little effort into flavourful sliders topped with red cabbage slaw. Makes 20 to 25 sliders. Sliders 2 confit duck legs 1 boiled potato, mashed 1 to 2 tsp chopped fresh thyme 1 egg, lightly beaten 1/2 - 1 cup coarse dry bread crumbs (try panko) Vegetable oil, for frying Slaw 1/4 small red cabbage 1/2 apple or pear, thinly sliced
2 Tbsp apple cider vinegar (try Spinnaker’s) 2 Tbsp olive oil 1 Tbsp local honey 1/4 to 1/2 tsp caraway seeds 1 baguette (buy good bread - try Fol Epi or Wild Fire) For the sliders, reheat confit; discard skin and shred meat from bones. Mix with mashed potato and thyme. If mixture is dry, moisten with a spoonful of mayo. Form into small pucks. If making ahead, cover and refrigerate overnight. For the slaw, thinly slice cabbage and place in a bowl with apple. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Whisk vinegar with oil, honey & caraway. Pour over cabbage and toss to mix. For the slider bottoms, slice baguette into rounds. Lightly brush each with olive oil, then bake in preheated 400F oven until light golden, about 3 minutes per side. Store in an air-tight container up to 3 days (TIP: serve extra toasts with Mini Salmon Pots). Bring pucks to room temperature, about 1 hour. Dip pucks into egg, then coat with panko. Fry in a generously oiled frying pan until golden, about 2 min. per side. Place on toasts and top with slaw. Best served warm.
CHORIZO and POTATO POPPERS These are tiny riffs on Spanish tortilla – a tapas favourite that’s a cross between a frittata and potato. Made with fabulous chorizo from Choux Choux Charcuterie or Oyama Sausage Co., these are perfect for cocktailing: one small bite, big flavour, and no drippy mess! 1 to 2 links chorizo sausage (cured, not raw) 1 large potato, peeled and boiled 4 eggs Generous pinches of sweet smoked or regular paprika and sea salt 1/2 cup finely grated Natural Pastures Boerenkaas cheese (or a firm Dutch cheese) Spray a 12-cup mini muffin pan with oil. Slice chorizo into thin rounds – you’ll need at least 24 pieces. Pan-fry until browned Cut potato into quarters (TIP: easier to slice when cold). Thinly slice each quarter. Divide and layer over bottom of cups; press to fit as necessary. Press 2 slices of chorizo into each. Whisk eggs with paprika, salt and cheese. Spoon over chorizo and potatoes (go slowly – it takes time for the egg to slip over potatoes). Place on a baking sheet and bake in preheated 300F oven until puffy and firm, 10 to 12 min. Let stand 5 minutes, then turn out. If making ahead, cover and refrigerate overnight. Serve Cont’d on the next page
www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
27
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warm or at room temperature. Don’t have mini muffin pan? Double the recipe (chop chorizo for easier slicing when baked). Bake in 8X8 square baking dish until puffy and firm. Cool, then cut into small squares.
CRISPY KALE CHIPS Baking kale into lighter-than-air crispy chips transforms its signature bitterness. This is a bare bones recipe so add your own flavour flair using dried herbs and spices from curry to cayenne. 1 bunch kale stems trimmed and torn into large pieces 1 Tbsp olive oil Generous pinches of sea salt
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Toss kale with oil and salt. Use fingers to rub oil into kale to evenly but lightly coat. Arrange leaves in a single layer on one or 2 large baking sheets. For easy clean-up, line baking sheet with parchment paper. Bake in preheated 350F oven until leaves are crunchy and stiff, 12 to 15 min. TIP: Kale chips are good eaten on their own or crumble and use as a seasoning for everything from popcorn to fish or salads.
YAM & PROSCIUTTO BISCUIT BITES
Markus’ Wharfside Restaurant
Vancouver Island’s best kept secret
(250) 642-3596 1831 Maple Ave. Sooke www.markuswharfsiderestaurant.com
2272 Oak Bay Avenue, Victoria, B.C 250 - 592 - 4080 phone/fax
Flaky biscuits studded with prosciutto and sweet vibrant yams are the perfect vehicles to slather with quince paste. Your best bet is to shop at Ottavio—they have the best prosciutto selection in town and carry local quince paste too. Makes about 24 biscuits. 1 yam or sweet potato, peeled & cubed 3 Tbsp local honey 1/2 tsp apple cider vinegar (try Spinnaker’s) 1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour 1 green onion, chopped 2 1/2 tsp baking powder 1/2 tsp salt 1/2 cup cold butter, cut into cubes 1/3 cup buttermilk, well-shaken 1 Tbsp butter, melted 4 to 6 slices prosciutto, cut into strips (try prosciutto from Oyama Sausage Co.) 1 wedge quince paste (Lifecycles Fruit Tree Project makes a local quince paste) Boil yam until tender. Drain, then mash. Measure out 3/4 cup of the yam and stir with honey and vinegar. Set aside to cool. Whisk flour with onion, baking powder and salt. Finely chop two pieces prosciutto, then stir into the flour mixture. Cut in butter until coarse crumbs form. Whisk mashed yam mixture with buttermilk. Pour over flour mixture. Using a fork, stir just until combined. Turn onto a countertop dusted with flour. Gently knead a few times, then press or roll dough to 1/2-inch thickness. Cut into rounds with a cookie cutter. Place on a baking sheet and brush tops with butter. Bake in 425F oven until golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Cool, then split each biscuit and fill with thin slices of quince paste and prosciutto.
THE WINES
@
RED A Spanish Tempranillo based red will provide bright acidity, sweet spice, and red berry fruit to complement the various flavours and textures above. An Aussie Shiraz/Grenache blend will cover all your bases - spicy black pepper and depth plus juicy, earthy raspberry and cherry flavours. WHITE An Alsatian Gewurztraminer, with full body, exotic fruit, weighted texture and a spicy finish will bridge the sweet and savoury menu. A fuller, dryer BC blend, look to one with these varieties Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc and Roussanne).
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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
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www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
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HOLIDAY DESSERTS
Text and food styling by DENISE MARCHESSAULT • Photography by CAROLINE WEST
Holiday parties aren’t complete without a few fancy-schmancy desserts and these chocolatey creations make a festive and decadent finale. I’ll explain how to make one showpiece dessert, and using the base same recipe, break it down into a couple of super simple desserts. I’ve also included a yummy cranberry compote that can be served with each component. Please, let’s not call it “deconstructed” dessert, that’s far too pretentious. This is all about mixing and matching and getting creative! You don’t have to be a pastry chef to create impressive looking desserts at home. You require only one tool from a chef’s bag of tricks: a pastry bag. Okay, you need a bit of patience too, but not as much as you might think. Chocolate Charlotte with Candied Cranberries Dust off your cake platter and splurge on some Christmas ribbon; this Charlotte is a stand-alone diva destined for memorable holiday photos. Served plain or with a luscious cranberry compote, this dessert rings in the season with style. This splendid Charlotte only looks challenging to make. It has but two components: a chocolate mousse and sponge ladyfingers. If you have the stamina to create a layered cake, then you’ve got what it takes to assemble a Charlotte. Best of all, it freezes beautifully so you can make it well before the holiday crunch.
‘You don’t have to be a pastry chef to create impressive looking desserts at home.’ Ladyfingers Freshly baked ladyfingers are soft and light and nothing like the hard, sugary, cello-wrapped store-bought variety. With only three ingredients; sugar, flour and eggs, they are surprisingly easy to prepare: no need to be intimidated. Ladyfingers were the very first thing I made at culinary school. I had never used a pastry bag before and my first dozen ladyfingers looked more like gnarly thumbs than elegant fingers, but by the time I was on to my second tray, I was piping like a seasoned pro. Who knew it could be so easy? Ladyfingers are not just for Charlottes, they can be drenched with espresso for a decadent tiramisu, mixed with fruit and cream for an old fashioned trifle, slathered with jam, dusted with sugar, or served straight up, au naturel. Chocolate Mousse When chocolate and cream collide, something magical happens. Combine barely whipped cream with melted chocolate and voila! you’ve created an exquisite dessert that will leave your guests wondering how you managed. Who would have guessed the two ingredients could cause such a sensation? Chocolate mousse can be spooned, or decoratively piped, into any container; just be sure to keep it on the small side because this silky-smooth dessert is deceptively rich. Forget about the ubiquitous martini glass, it’s far too large and, besides, there are so many other creative options available: think expresso mugs, tiny ramekins, egg cups, and miniature tea cups and such. Vintage and second-hand stores offer exceptional value for unconventional glassware and who says they all have to be the same anyway? An eclectic assortment of antique sherry or shot glasses make for inspired containers. Dessert Garnishes When it comes to desserts, it’s all about showing-off so don’t be tempted to skimp on the finishing touches. A unique container and a decorative garnish can turn a simple mousse into la pièce de résistance. Garnishes add drama, height and textural contrast to a fluffy mousse. Painting leaves with melted chocolate is an easy decorating trick and who doesn’t like chocolate with their chocolate? With a little imagination, and a bit of sugar, you can transform paper-thin slices of apple or pear into delicate fruit chips, plain-Jane nuts into bejeweled brittle, and simple cranberries into edible ornaments. Of course, you don’t have to make your own garnishes; your local grocer or chocolatier can provide plenty of options for dessert toppers: slender rolled wafers, chocolate coins, delicate thin cookies, elegant chocolate straws, and chocolate-dusted coffee beans to name a few. Denise Marchessault, cooking instructor and proprietor of French Mint, is classically trained in French cuisine.
FIND THE RECIPES ON THE EAT WEBSITE
For a video demonstration of these recipes go to the EAT website and click on the Charlotte www.eatmagazine.ca www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
31
master cooking class
— with Nathan Fong
Lemon,
Holiday Side Dishes that Star on their Own
This Morroca Fragrant with and apricots Makes about
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Lemon, Dried Fruit and Pistachio Couscous
Creamy Brussels Sprouts with Pearl Onions and Pancetta Dried Cranberry, Ginger and Almond Relish
Whether it be the prized roasted turkey or a succulent prime rib roast, the main holiday meal centerpiece is always shared with side dishes that are usually overshadowed. Traditional mashed potatoes, over cooked Brussels sprouts and the ubiquitous carrot and corn medley are the usual typical holiday table fare. Here are some contemporary recipes to help spruce up your festive meals this year!
1 cup sugar 3 Tbsp wate 1/3 cup finel 1 1/2 cups o 1/4 cup fine 1 lb dried cra
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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
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Lemon, Dried Fruit and Pistachio Couscous This Morrocan staple also makes an interesting side dish to the traditional Holiday table. Fragrant with lemon and mint, delicate grains of couscous are mixed with dried currants and apricots with pistachios. This can be served hot or at room temperature. Makes about 6 1/2 cups, Serves 6 to 8 as a side dish 1 Tbsp. (15ml) butter 1 Tbsp olive oil 1 shallot, minced 2 cups chicken or vegetable stock 1 lemon, juiced and zested (finely minced) 2 cups instant couscous
3 green onions, finely chopped cup fresh mint leaves, finely chopped cup fresh cilantro, finely chopped cup dried currants or raisins cup coarsely chopped dried apricots cup coarsely chopped pistachios
1/2 1/2 1/2 1/2 1/2
In a medium saucepan, heat the butter and olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallot and sauté until translucent. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and stir in lemon juice, zest and couscous. Cover tightly and allow to sit for 5 to 8 minutes or until the couscous is soft and tender. Fluff with fork and mix in remaining ingredients. Serve immediately or keep warm covered.
Creamy Brussels Sprouts with Pearl Onions and Pancetta
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Brussels sprouts are certainly not everyone’s favourite holiday vegetable, probably because they were served overcooked grayish-green ones. I’ve always enjoyed them as my family stir-fried them and kept them brilliant green and crisp, which they should be! In this simple recipe, the pearl onions and sprouts are steamed until just tender (try and pick sprouts and onions that are similar size so that they cook at the same time), and then tossed with a pancetta cream sauce. Anything with bacon or pancetta always tastes better! Serves 4 as a side dish
1 lb small to medium Brussels sprouts, trimmed (about 3 cups) 1 1/2 cups pearl onions, peeled and trimmed (about 1/2 lb) 2 Tbsp butter 2 1/4-inch slices pancetta, cut into 1/2inch pieces
2 Tbsp all-purpose flour 1/2 cup milk 1/2 cup chicken stock 1 tsp kosher salt pinch cayenne 2 Tbsp chopped Italian parsley
Place Brussels sprouts and onions in a top part of steamer or steamer rack. Fill bottom of steamer with water and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Place vegetables on top and steam for 10 to 11 minutes or until a knife cuts into a sprout easily. Set aside. In a saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat and when bubbling, add the pancetta and sauté until nearly crisp. Reduce heat and add the flour and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring. Slowly add the milk and stock, stirring briskly to prevent lumps. Add the salt and cayenne. Increase heat to medium and stir until thickened. Stir in vegetables and parsley. Cook over low heat until well heated and serve.
Dried Cranberry, Ginger and Almond Relish An alternative to the ubiquitous tinned cranberry sauce and jelly, this recipe uses dried cranberries infused with orange and ginger and finished with chopped apples and almonds.
1 cup sugar 3 Tbsp water 1/3 cup finely chopped orange zest 1 1/2 cups orange juice 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh ginger 1 lb dried cranberries
3 cups peeled and diced apples 1/3 cup whole grain mustard 1/2 cup macadamia, walnut or hazelnut oil 1 1/2 cups flaked almonds, toasted (optional)
Place the sugar and water in a medium saucepan and place on medium heat until the sugar dissolves and starts to caramelize into a golden brown. Immediately stir in the orange zest, orange juice, ginger and cranberries. Reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes then add the apples. Cook for a further 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, then remove from the heat to cool. It should have a jam-like consistency. Once cool, fold in the mustard, nut oil and almonds. This can be made up to a week ahead but leave the almonds out until just before serving. Fresh cranberries can be used instead of the dried by using a 1 1/2 lbs of fresh cranberries and reducing orange juice to 3/4 cups.
For more Holiday Side Dish recipes go to EATmagazine.ca www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
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NTHE a COMOX n a i VALLEY mo NOVEMBER | DECEMBER
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HAUTE CUISINE 1210 BROAD ST., VICTORIA, BC 250.388.9906
VICTORIA You’ll have to forgive me, dear readers, as I have been in a nesting mood lately. As the deadline for this column came and went, I realized exactly how counter-productive this behaviour is for a food reporter, who should be out and about, trying new things. It has also proven to be bad timing for cocooning, since there is so much happening in this town right now! So while I cozy up at home with a new baby and homemade soup, here’s a little list of some of the new places that you can be enjoying. Have a great holiday season, and I promise to be back in the loop come the New Year. Strolling down Pandora on a rainy evening in early September, headed for a show at the Alix Goolden Hall, I peered across the street at what used to be the Village Family Market. “Does it say ‘Relish’ up there?” I asked my husband. “Looks like it” he replied. Upon further investigation, I discovered that indeed, Chef Jamie Cummins (Rebar, Sooke Harbour House, Paprika) has opened up Relish Food and Coffee and people are flocking for his home made pastas, house cured and smoked bacon, fresh baked goods and soups. Next door at 916 Pandora, Cranberry Café has been relaunched as Cranberry’s Coffee Cup, under the helm of Bert Higginbottom. With the perennial favourite Blair Mart at 924, this little row now presents quite the trifecta of food destinations. Aubergine Specialty Foods has opened on Gladstone St. in Fernwood, carrying South African, British and kosher foods, as well as local produce, free-range eggs from Sooke, meat from Slater’s. McRae’s is the new eatery on the corner of Shelbourne and McRae, serving up pub fare, while Joe’s Seafood Bar, recently opened on Wharf St., boasts local, sustainable and affordable dining. And after a brief closure in October, The Superior is shifting to a more intimate setting. Chef Torin is creating a new bar menu, on offer until 11 pm. If you’re looking for some culinary instruction, check out Cook Culture in the Atrium on Blanshard (between Johnson and Yates), Victoria’s newest cooking school and cook shop. They will be offering classes, cooking demos and a venue for hosting corporate events in a commercial grade test kitchen, and carrying a wide selection of good quality kitchenware. Seasonal classes are being held around town throughout November and into December. Learn how to use different teas to toast the holidays at Silk Road on November 27th (www.silkroadtea.com), make appetizers with Chef Sonja at the James Bay Community Centre on December 1st (www.jamesbaycentre.ca) or master an elegant dinner party menu at French Mint on December 2nd (www.frenchmint.ca). If you’re just looking for some merrymaking, there will be lots of that available as well. Top picks include Swiss Week at Ottavio’s, from November 10th – 14th, as well as their Christmas Open House on December 3rd. Muse Winery is hosting their annual winemakers dinner November 13th, and the Sooke Harbour House is once again putting on their popular New Year’s Eve Gala Dinner Dance on December 31st. For up-to-date listings, visit the Events board at eatmagazine.ca. Recently I had the opportunity to try the new line of Stage Productions’s prepared food products. George’s duck confit was the obvious hit with the crowd but I also loved the marinated olive mix and the Preserved Lemons which I use to add a tart zip to salad dressings and vegetable dishes—a little goes a long way. Stage also make wonderful, thick-cut, house-smoked bacon Cont’d on the next page
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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
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and a number of sausages including pork and parika. www.stagewinebar.com. Also in Fernwood, Little Piggy is branching out over the Blue Bridge and signed an agreement with the English Inn to provide exclusive event catering services, as well as their breakfast, lounge and in-room dining menu. One of the Inn’s new owners is Bob Kalef, who was the co-founder of Centennial Meats. www.englishinn.ca. Over in James Bay Spinnakers Chocolatier has become the sole Canadian location selling and using TCHO Chocolate. Try their in-house made barks. www.spinnakers.com —by Rebecca Baugniet NANAIMO No sense in denying it, the holiday season is coming fast and it’s time to think about food and gift preparations. I find combining the two works well for winning hearts through stomachs. So grab your holiday spirit and a hamper, it’s time for the holiday forage! Here are some of my nearby picks to help you along the way. McLean’s Specialty Foods 426 Fitzwilliam St, Nanaimo – (250) 754-0100 - www.mcleansfoods.com For traditional Christmas treats with an international flare, McLean’s is the place to check out. Proprietors Eric and Sandy Maclean and their knowledgeable staff are on hand to give you a tour of their fantastic world of food including an extensive cheese selection and rare-find specialty items. Here you will be sure to walk away with many tasty holiday gifts from the Old Country wherever that may be, and quite likely your own “Christmas pudding “ too! MarkT The Boardwalk at Rutherford, Nanaimo – (250) 585-5337 – www.marktartisandeli.com For the locavore in your life, the deli case at MrkT is not to be missed. Ryan Zuvich and his team create fantastic charcuterie using ingredients from many local Vancouver Island suppliers. Favourites include mouth-watering terrines and pates specially packaged for giving, as well as inhouse smoked and cured meats. To take the load off on Christmas day, MarkT is also brining and trussing organic free-range turkeys by special order only. Gift certificates for their cooking class and dinner events are also available. Check out their website for more information on dates and themes. 24 Carrot Catering 6560 Metral Drive, Nanaimo – (250) 390-0008 - www.24carrotcatering.bc.ca If you are looking to keep your apron on its hook this season, you can count on Alex Teare’s team to make your holiday meal magically appear. Full of traditional and unique options, 24 Carrot’s menus are easily tailored for personal taste. Their turkey dinner is especially notable with a choice of four stuffings and a gorgeous cranberry sauce made from scratch in their kitchen. You can find all the delicious details on their website. Cont’d on the next page
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www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
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AFFORDABLE GOURMET LUXURIES
Flying Fish 180 Commercial St., Nanaimo – (250) 754-2104 - www.flyingfishnanaimo.com The spirits are always high at the Flying fish where among the best in kitchen gadgetry you will also find some interesting prepared gourmet food items. A little something from of their selection of sauces, mustards, infused vinegars and oils is sure to bring holiday joy to the gourmand on your list. Mon Petit Choux 120 Commercial Street, Nanaimo – (250) 753-6002 – www.monpetitchoux.ca Oh sure, there’s something wonderfully nostalgic about leaving Mon Petit Choux toting a box of their delectable pastries by its traditional knotted string, but anyone who has experienced these goodies will tell you the protective string’s there to ensure the pastries are still in the box at their intended destination! Gifts of jam, herb infused shortbread and what I call the OMG macaroons are also sure to please. For help with your holiday feast you may want to consider their decadent traditional tourtiere available by special order and in limited quantities. Venturi-Schultze Vineyards 4235 Vineyard Road, Cobble Hill – (250) 743- 5630 – www.venturischultze.com I can’t think of anything I would love finding in my stocking more than a bottle of Venturi Schultz Balsamic Vinegar. Made using ancient methods by the Venturi family, this vinegar is beautifully bottled for perfect gift giving. Since you’re there you may as well pick up a bottle of Brandenburg No. 3 dessert wine too. Described as something special by many aficionados, the smooth hints of caramel and mild balsamic “zing” makes Brandenburg no. 3 a perfect pairing with any dessert or cheese tray, and a memorable gift. Organic Fair 1935 Doran Road, Cobble Hill – (250) 733-2035 - www.organicfair.com Christmas just isn’t complete without chocolate and a visit to Organic Fair is sure to see you happily blowing your gift budget on their fair trade bars. Marisa Goodwin creates delectable and surprising flavour combinations to make her bars of delight. There’s a treat in it for you too since you can taste them all at the chocolate tasting bar in advance of your purchase. If you’re sending chocolate as a holiday greeting from our home and native land, the Canadiana bar is a top choice where a blend of maple sugar, alder smoked salt and sun-dried apple create a symphony of traditional Canadian flavours. Hilary’s Cheese Cowichan Bay Village – (888) 480-7600 – www.hilarycheese.com Along with their highly acclaimed artisan cheeses, Patty and Hilary Abbott’s seaside shop also offer some great stocking stuffers such as specialty mustards, jams and olive oil. With local cheese one must have local bread. At Hilary’s all you have to do is follow your nose through the not so secret passageway to find True Grain Artisan Bakery where many handcrafted organic loaves await! Red House Market 189 Commercial St., Nanaimo - (250) 667-3727 My last pick is the recently opened Red House Market. In the spirit of Montreal’s Little Italy, Joshua Tessier has opened his quaint market in the tradition of the neighborhood grocer. Here you’ll find yourself surrounded by baskets of produce, shelves stocked with convenience and specialty items and a deli case full of locally sourced meats and cheeses. If you time it right, wonderful wafts of fresh-baked bread from Slow Rise Bakery on Gabriola Island will also greet you. What stands out for the holiday season is locally made, delightful shortbread cookies from Island Highlander Bakery, which are gift-ready in their glad-tidy little packages. Wishing you all the best of the season and a happy forage! — by Karma Brophy We welcome new Nanaimo Reporter Karma Brophy (read her bio on EATmagazine.ca)
We stock more than 18,000 hard-to-find gourmet food items and culinary wanna haves. Utensils, pots, gadgets, unique bakeware and so much more.
Without question… the most exciting food store to explore! The Gourmet Warehouse, 1340 East Hastings Street, Vancouver, BC t: 604-253-3022 | hours M-Sat 10-6 Sun 10-5 www.gourmetwarehouse.ca
VANCOUVER Right after Remembrance Day we begin to count how many sleeps until Christmas. Some of us begin scribbling down a few picks and plans for the holidays. Here are a few ideas that should get the organized going, yet inspire the procrastinator. Wine tasters may be familiar with Heather Nichol’s “Gone Crackers” (www.gonecrackers.ca) --those crispy palate cleansers made simply with sea salt and olive oil, that have become so popular at wine tastings. It took five years for the “Cracker Lady” to perfect her Moroccan-spiced crackers. It’s paid off. These exotically flavoured wafers, naked or barely dressed with a soft cheese and a dollop of chutney are the perfect pick-me up for fruit-driven wines such as Viognier Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris—or Pinot Noir. (Keep an eye out, too, for her cheesy Gone Crackers—Parmesan &Rosemary, Blue Cheese & Cracked Pepper, Canadian Cheddar & Chive). In 2009 chef Ann Kirsebom added Gourmet Sauce spiked with Grand Marnier Liqueur to her family of popular boozy sauces/marinades (Tequi-lime, O-rumba, O’plum Sesame Sauce (with sherry) and Teriyaki Sake). The bitter-sweet orange elixir not only makes a nice stocking stuffer but also perks up a festive pork roast (recipe available @www.tequi-lime.com). This year Kirsebom has come up with (and what could be more timely?) cranberry/onion confit that balances beautifully, sweet, tart and savoury. This high-demand condiment is, at the moment, only available only at The Gourmet Warehouse (www.gourmetwarehouse.com). ...Speaking of this fine food emporium, owner/chef/cookbook author Caren McSherry, has just released “In a Pinch”. McSherry’s recipes were developed for cooks who want sophistication without the sweat. McSherry’s Cont’d on the next page
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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
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philosophy? Start with a few top-drawer items, some nice fresh ingredients and you’ve got star-quality on the plate. Check www.EATmagazine mid-November for a review of the book. No time for a several hours’ cooking class? Quince kickstarts November with “Apples and Artisan Ales”, a one-hour demonstration class Saturday November 6, 3-4pm. Taste artisan ales with apples while learning how easy it is to whip up a jolly medley of prosciutto wrapped scallops with citrus-saffron sauce, espresso and bourbon glazed pork ribs, and best of all a Mort Subite Kriek(cherry) lambic beer vanilla ice cream float. Or spend an hour making Hot Chocolate and Madeleines (Kids can join in on this one). Holiday cooks with time on their hands, can get those fingers working on Holiday Hors d’oeuvres and Cocktails, Holiday Baking, or, prepare, under the tutellage of Chef/Sommelier Andrea Jefferson, a four-course Decandent Holiday Dinner, a roast goose feast with wine pairings. (www.quince.ca/studio-classes#Schedule) This year be proud to give a BC wine to lay away. At a recent event honouring twenty years of BC VQA, our industry’s Founding Fathers, (Harry McWaters, Gordon Fitzpatrick, Howard Soon, Adolph Kruger, and George Heiss with wife and founding matriarch, Trudy, among others) pulled some mighty fine back vintages out of the cellar. Cipes and Sumac Ridge sparklers still burst with fine bubble. Gray Monk Pinot Gris, and Wild Goose and Gehringer Rieslings displayed a surprising agility. Mission Hill and Quails’ Gate Chardonnay showed mature spiced apple and honey notes and a still firm backbone. As for the reds, Sumac Ridge Merlot, Quails Gate and Cedar Creek Pinot Noir had mellowed gracefully. Until January 1, 2010, the unique “pop-up” restaurant, One Hundred Days occupies a temporary space in the Opus Hotel. Local artist Victor Dumoulin has crazy-crayoned the walls with graffiti-like art and a scribbly menu. After what promises to be quite the New Year’s bash, a permanent restaurant will push aside the funky eatery. We think this is a cool and sassy concept for fallow kitchens. Mostly hip young Yaletowners pack the place for equally hodge-podge offerings (Duck Pot Pie, Lobster and Crab Popsicles, Leek Fondue and a Bad Ass Burger, to name a few). One grey-haired patron grinned and quipped to her cronies, “I hope no-one paid an architect to design this place.” Sweet! —by Julie Pegg THE OKANAGAN What better Christmas gift for the foodie in your life than a box full of deliciousness? The Okanagan is literally an epicenter of all things splendorous and locally created. From amazing wine to heavenly cheese and Chef-made accoutrements, your gift box will surely be coveted under the tree this year. Wine - Start with a couple of bottles of our award winning vino. The plethora of choices we have to offer are enough to drive any palate into a course of Fa-la-la-la-la. How about a bottle of red and a bottle of luscious fruit wine or port? Rustic Roots and Forbidden Fruit make delectable fruit wine and Sumac Ridge’s Pipe port is divine. Bubbles are always the right choice and the Okanagan has a huge selection. How about something different like BC’s first ever Prosecco from 8th Generation or Meadow Vista Honey Wine bubble, also with yuletide worthy name, Joy. Cheese – Naramata Bench Blue, the meltingly magnificent creation from Poplar Grove, is to die for. Add to that some gorgeous goat from Carmelis – their Big White would be apropos. The Village Cheese Co. in Armstrong makes a range of cheddars including the Suicidally Hot Horseradish cheddar and some wine spiked versions. www.carmelisgoatcheese.com www.poplargrovecheese.ca www.villagecheese.com Okanagan Grocery carries these cheeses too: www.okanagangrocery.com You will also need crackers to go with that cheese – Chef Neil Schroeter’s Okanagan Street Food makes fabulous fennel or rosemary flatbread crackers that will make a toothsome addition. www.okanaganstreetfood.com Wine and cheese both pair well with fruitcake, and I happen to know a lady who can help you with that. Noni’s Nuttier than a Fruitcake business has basically gone nuts for good reason – they are delicious! Noni makes two kinds of fruitcakes in two sizes: one is the traditional Totally Decadent cake and the other is the Okanagan Harvest made with local dried fruits – both have chocolate and booze and have no preservatives. www.fruitcake.ca From sweet to tart – you must include a bottle of wine vinegar from The Vinegar Works in Summerland! All of their vinegars are made from grapes grown on their beautiful certified organic farm. From verjus to balsamic, the selection is huge. www.valentinefarm.com Chef Bernard Casavant at the Wild Apple Grill in Kelowna’s Manteo Resort has sent his fans into a frenzy after launching his own product line including delicious preserves, marinades etc. www.wildapplerestaurant.com. Casavant joins the ranks of local celebs, chef Rod Butters (RauDZ Regional Table) and chef Mark Filatow (Waterfront Wines Restaurant – Details Catering) who both have their own product lines. Anything from either of them would be a glamorous addition to your creation. www.raudz.com www.detailscatering.ca Chocolate! We cannot forget to include some luxurious chocolate and Paris chocolatier Sandrine will provide the ooh la la factor to your box. Sandrine’s French Bakery & Chocolate creates beautiful things – from chocolates and pretty chocolate bars to croissants and quiche. They make diabetic friendly chocolate too! 250-860-1202 Last but not least you may want to include a fabulous bag of coffee for those who like a hot cuppa (spiked) coffee under the Christmas tree. Backyard Beans in Summerland is a true grass roots Cont’d on the next page
www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
37
operation with these folks roasting their beans in the red barn in their backyard – gorgeous. www.backyardbeanscoffee.com Or you could choose a bag of Okanagan Gold or one of Kelowna’s Cherry Hill coffee makers extraordinaire. They are certified organic and are environmentally aware and socially responsible folks – you will feel good after one of their cups for all sorts of reasons. www.cherryhillcoffee.com Wine lovers, we have two big events on schedule during snow season. Big Reds at Big White is coming up – look for the date announcement. And Okanagan Wine Festivals presents their Annual Winter Wine Festival up at Sun Peaks Resort that promises to be a blast January 19-23rd, 2011. www.winefestivals.com —by Jennifer Schell-Pigott
On hiatus this month, the Comox Valley buzz will return in the next issue.
one in
QU
Gary Hynes
TOFINO & UCLULET There’s a lot happening in Tofino to fill the long evenings that are now upon us. Local self-titled professional food lover Bobby Lax has been busy in his roles as coordinator for the Tofino-Ucluelet Culinary Guild (www.tucg.ca), cooking class instructor and now, coordinator for the 14th annual Clayoquot Sound Oyster Festival. This year as in the past there are many oyster-related events for the young and old during the festival, which runs Nov.18-20 in Tofino. There are oyster farm tours, oyster and wine tastings, and of course the two main oyster celebrations – the Mermaid Ball Nov. 19 and the Oyster Gala Nov. 20 (both at the Tofino Community Hall). A sultry oyster-slurping contest is part of the Mermaid’s Ball and local chefs bring their oyster creations to the Gala. The Banana Fish Orchestra is back by popular demand this year, and another as-yet unnamed band will also play at the always-quick-to-sell-out Gala. For event listings and ticket information, visit www.oystergala.com or contact Wildside Booksellers
at 1-800-863-4644 or 250-725-4222. For more information on Lax’s west coast cooking classes, visit the district websites for Tofino and Ucluelet (www.tofino.ca and www.ucluelet.ca). Before the rain set it, I had the chance to tour several local gardens as part of the Tofino Community Food Initiative’s 2nd annual Edible Garden Tour. The notion that this part of the world can’t produce a bountiful harvest was quickly put to rest for me. Gardeners are growing everything from corn to grapes; even sun-loving tomatoes will ripen if planted early enough and kept warm. The TCFI is raising money for an expanded community garden at Wickaninnish Community School. The non-profit group aims to educate locals about gardening and healthy food all while facilitating access to healthy food. See their website for more information at www.tofinofood.blogspot.com. Travel + Leisure magazine readers voted the Wickaninnish Inn as the #1 resort in Canada and among the top four North American resorts in the publication's annual World's Best Awards. Ancient Cedars Spa was voted as the#1 Hotel Spa in the Continental U.S. and Canada, and Best Hotel Spa Overall (worldwide) in 2008. Book your holiday stay early at www.wickinn.com or call 1.800.333.4604 Tofino Beer Festival on Sept. 25 was a rousing success despite the stormy weather, with 250 patrons enjoying samples from 12 breweries. British Columbia microbreweries shared space with eastern contemporaries such as Unibroue and Mill St. on the waterfront at the Weigh West Resort (www.weighwest.com). Those tarps sure came in handy! SoBo Restaurant is hosting a Phillips Brewery dinner in November and a Blue Mountain Winery dinner in December, dates to be announced as of press time. Sundays in November are date night and will feature a prix fixe menu and live acoustic music. www.sobo.ca 250-725-2341 The Spotted Bear Bistro has moved into a fall and winter menu that features main courses ranging from $19-30. A hearty chicken pot pie and a savoury Vietnamese style noodle soup are some of the new offerings. Locals night is on Sundays throughout the winter. Watch for renovations coming soon. www.spottedbearbistro.com 250-725-2215 New to Tofino this winter is the Tofino Bagel Company, offering authentic Montreal-style bagels from their location in the Wilson Building at the corner of Fourth and Campbell Sts. They had not opened their doors when EAT went to press, but I’ll be sure to bring you more news in an upcoming column. —by Jen Dart
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38
EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
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What better way to celebrate the season than a gathering at the Kingfisher!
LifeCycles “Fruit Tree Project” volunteers at the Marina Restaurant. Volunteers work long into the night preparing 500 pounds of quince that will be cooked down to make the much-sought after quince paste. In partnership with the Marina Restaurant LifeCycles has created a delectable Quince Paste that is perfect company to your favourite cheese. Made with a fair trade organic cane sugar from Level Ground Trading, Quince Paste is a bit like soft fragrant fruit leather. Look for it at your deli and on the finest cheese boards around town. Quince paste (aka membrillo) is most commonly served as an accompaniment to cheese but there’s more to it than just that. Marina Executive Chef Matthew Risser offers his suggestions for cooking with LifeCycles quince paste. “At the Marina, we’ve used quince paste in sauces or to baste pork, chicken and duck. The paste can either be placed in a ‘disc’ on top of the meat as it’s roasting, or turned into a sauce as the meat is cooking. For example, a pork chop could be seared in a pan, then finished in the oven with a small piece of quince paste on top. A chicken or duck breast could be browned, skin side down, then drained and finished in the oven with a small amount of chicken stock and a bit of quince paste. It melts down quite well and adds a sweet/savory aspect to pork, poultry or game that works very well. Think local Sidney Island venison from Two Rivers Specialty Meats. Quince paste also can be macerated with vinegar and used in a vinaigrette, using a standard 3:1 oil:vinegar ratio. The sweet/sour combination works well with hearty, sometimes bitter winter greens. Toasted nuts, blue cheese, any sort of seeds… Or. It can be gently heated with some water to form a syrup which can then be used in a variety of cocktails where the floral notes of the quince would complement. Perhaps shaken with vodka and topped with soda? This same syrup served warm over vanilla ice cream is excellent too – this was my afternoon snack yesterday! Sorbet made from quince paste is excellent and really useful as a palate cleanser. Dropped into a glass of prosecco, it’s a great mid-meal break between courses. Any good fruit sorbet recipe can be modified to suit this unusual fruit. Should you be lucky enough to have a quince tree, whole quince can be used in a variety of cooked applications in place of apples or pears. The fruit is very high in pectin and is very astringent, so sugar would likely have to be increased, and the finished product can be firmer than if using other fruit. Quince turns from green/yellow to pink/red as it cooks, and takes on a deep ruby colour. At the restaurant, we’ve done poached quince (as you would for pears) and a quince tarte tatin. Go to the EAT website (www.eatmagazine.ca) where they’ve posted a recipe courtesy of Brian Bradley from a previous Marina dessert menu. Quince tarte is easy to make using store bought dough if you are in a rush, even though it sounds fancy. By the time this goes to print, it’s likely too late to find any fresh quince around, but you never know! If you are lucky enough to have a quince (or any other fruit!) tree in your yard, think of calling Renate or Jesse at the Fruit Tree Project to register your tree for harvest next year – that is, if you don’t end up using it all yourself!”
www.lifecyclesproject.ca/initiatives/fruit_tree/
www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
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DRINK
who’s w
CRA
Satisfy Your Thirst Fritz’s Riesling QBA 2008, Germany, $17.00-19.00 Light and seductive with a lovely bouquet of ripe peaches, apples and minerals nicely balanced with a crunch of bright zesty acidity. Off-dry with plenty of zing and a lingering finish. Kato Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008, New Zealand, $20.00-22.00 The nose is striking with vibrant aromas of ripe melon, dried herbs, flint and green peppers with plenty of ripe fruit on the palate and good acidity giving it length and vigor. Chateau Guiraud Le G Bordeaux Blanc Sec 0,7 France, $30.00-33.00 What a wine, this dry white from Chateau Guiraud, producer of some of the most unctuous sweet dessert wines enjoyed today. It’s not an after-thought; the fruit is sourced from a 15ha parcel of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon dedicated to “Le G.” It is made of ripe but not botrytis infected grapes, barrel fermented and aged for a further 6 to 9 months before bottling. It is bone-dry with more than a hint of passion fruit, raspberries and licorice on the nose and palate. Strange but true! Since first tried over a year ago this lovely cuvee has picked up weight but somehow retains delicacy and finesse.
RED WINE
liquid assets —by Larry Arnold GREAT VALUE Oglio Pinot Grigio 2008, Italy, $12.00-14.00 This is Pinot Grigio, the way I like it—fruity, dry, crisp and refreshing. It’s a wine you don’t need to think about. Think immediate satisfaction. Castano La Casona 2007, Spain, $9.50-12.00 La Casona Old-Vine Monastrell is hard to beat! Deliciously supple and lush, the nose offers up a complex medley of violets, black fruit and spice aromas. Soft and ripe with sweet berry flavours and a savory finish that lasts and surprises. Very highly recommended.
WHITE WINE Balthasar Ress Rheingau Riesling QBA 2008, Germany, $15.00-17.00 Bright and vibrant with peach, green apple and citrus flavours. A flowery little delight to quaff with a kiss of sweetness and lip-smacking acidity.
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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
Xumek Syrah 2007, Argentina, $23.00-25.00 Xumec is a small boutique winery located in Argentina’s San Juan province. In terms of production this area is second only to Mendoza but unlike its larger neighbour to the north, Syrah is the grape of choice here rather than Malbec. Very complex with deep ripe aromas of raspberries, pepper, vanilla and spice! Excellent concentration with rich powerful tannins and a long peppery finish. Decero Remolinos Vineyard Malbec 2008, Argentina, $26.00-28.00 Inky black with a superb nose that is very intense but still closed; leave it in the glass for a few minutes or better yet decant the bottle and give it a couple of hours and the fruit slowly starts to emerge. There is much going on here with layers of raspberry, mocha and black pepper. Very fruity but very firm! This is a big wine loaded with fruit, tannin and flavour. Galterra Rosso Toscana 2007, Italy, $29.00-31.00 Rustic in style with dried cherry, spice and dusty earth aromas that roll through the palate, medium-bodied and well balanced with firm acidity and a rasp of tannin through the finish. Summerhill Merlot 2007, Okanagan Valley, $20.00-23.00 Organically grown, pyramid aged Merlot is hard to come by, no matter what your address and although owner Stephen Cipes may be starry eyed with the geometric perfection of the great pyramids, winemaker Eric Von Krosigk is much more pragmatic. This is not a bad thing, between the two of them Summerhill is once again at the top of the wine game in British Columbia. Aged in oak for 16 months the berry-like nose is pure Merlot with a barely perceptible herbaceousness adding complexity to the flavour profile. This wine has style! Silky smooth with a long savory finish.
PORT Taylor Fladgate First Estate Reserve Port, Portugal, $23.00-25.00 First Estate is a non-vintage blend designed for everyday drinking enjoyment. It is ready to drink the moment you get it home and does not require decanting. It is rich and jammy with dark fruit and molasses flavours, good weight with a lovely creamy texture and a blush of soft tannin on the finish.
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CRAFT PERFECTION
Becky Julseth and Neil Neil Cooke-Dallin bought the Salt Spring Island Ales business in May of 2008 and officially announced ownership January 2009. Already having full time jobs (Becky works in marketing and Neil is a graphic designer, runs a recording studio and also has a popular band, Espionage) it was a big commitment and decision for the couple. They couldn’t have picked a better time, as the local food and drink movement was getting stronger by the day. Salt Spring Ales production is done one hundred percent on Salt Spring in their small hand built brewery. The thing that makes them stand-alone from the rest is there commitment to being environmentally friendly and using local ingredients. From planting their own certified organic crop of Nugget and Cascade hops in the Fulford Valley to “closing the loop” as Becky calls it, by donating their spent grain to Salt Spring Island cattle farmers. They also brew exclusively with their own natural spring water that comes from the mountain behind their brewery, making the beer free of any chlorine and giving only a clear, crisp and amazing clarity to the end product. Also by doing this they do not draw on public water resources. The master behind the brew is Murray Hunter, who has now been brewing for over fourteen years. Murray has won two gold medals at the Canadian Brewing Awards and best in class for their Golden Ale in 04’. Becky takes care of all the marketing, administration and works with the hops and heather farmers. She is also a member of the Pink Boots Society, a society for women in brewing. Neil manages sales and operations while brewery technician Stephen Miles takes care of numerous production jobs including all their packaging and bottling. Also new to the team this year is Murray’s new apprentice Heather Kilbourne. All together they have three main beers: Golden Ale, Pale Ale and Porter. The Golden ale is my personal favourite; it has a lovely nutty flavour combined with a lovely slight citrus tone. All three beers have won awards and have had excellent reviews over the years. They also have an impressive line up of specialty beers, including Whaletail Ale, which was originally created for Moby’s pub and Heatherdale ale, made with locally grown heather, and hand picked by Becky herself. Spring water, locally grown hops, hand-picked heather, cool people and some very good locally brewed beer, that is Salt Spring Island ales. Next time you're on Salt Spring, stop by and check it out or just head down to your local beer store and enjoy some local brew. —Eva Cherneff 270 Furness Road, Salt Spring Island, BC, Brewery Toll Free: 1.866 353.2383, www.saltspringislandales.com
online
By Treve Ring
WEB PICKS
Osake Junmai Sparkling Sake Granville Island, Vancouver, BC, $23.90-26 Lovely light effervescence with clear pear, tropical melon and a whiff of anise. www.osake.ca
La Frenz Winery Montage 2008 Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, Montage is a blend of Shiraz, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from Rattlesnake Vineyard. cedar, plum and sweet cherry plush aromas, and medium bodied flavours of lush blueberry, dark chocolate, cassis and earthy brambles. Nice fine tannins and lengthy finish – that tastes like more. www.lafrenzwinery.com
Orofino Vineyards Riesling 2009 Cawston, Similkameen Valley, BC, $20-25 Striking aromas of lime, mineral and pear carry through to a round palate, along with bright citrus and ripe sweet apricot. Lovely filling mouthfeel and crisp acidity meet seamlessly, resulting in a balanced and lengthy wine. I kept my glass handy over the course of three hours – returning every so often to see where the intense flavours would lead next. An exciting (and delish) journey. www.orofinovineyards.com
La Compañia De Vinos Telmo Rodriguez Dehesa Gago “g” Cosecha 2008 Toro DO, Castilla-Leon, Spain, $20-24 Ripe dark cherries and wild mushrooms in the nose lead to a meaty palate of baked fruits, dusty stone, black pepper and herbs. Heady and hearty, with a long old wood-fig finish. Open this savory and seductive 100% Tinto de Toro (Tempranillo) with roasted game and wild mushrooms. No oak was used in the aging of this big red, allowing the vivid and complex fruit to charge. www.telmorodriguez.com
www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
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On this Farm there are some Wine Elves.... Icewine, gifts and much, much more at Mattick's Farm VQA Store!
VQA Wine Shop at
MATTICK’S FARM Open 7 days a week
5325 Cordova Bay Rd. 250-658-3116
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Our service can best be described as “Knowledgeable, yet not pretentious… …approachable, with a hint of sass!”
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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
beer at the table —by Adem Tepedelen
pairin
HOLIDAY BREWS
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Special seasonal releases may cost a bit more, but these big, bold beers offer a wholly unique experience. The way we think about and (more important) enjoy beer is changing. What was a mostly bland, refreshing thirst-quencher throughout much of the 20th century has been transformed by the craft-brewing movement into something decidedly more exciting. Think of a flavour profile—from coconuts to hazelnuts. There’s probably a beer out there that matches it. The once plain beverage has become a lot more sophisticated, a word more often associated with wine. But craft brewers, with their clever use of ingredients and techniques (from barrel aging to unusual yeast/bacteria strains) are creating beers just as complex as a fine bottle of wine. And some of them, surprisingly, cost just as much as a bottle of moderately priced wine as well. Bon Secours Noël brewed by Brasserie More and more of these specialty beers— Caulier , Belgium. 10.00% ABV usually seasonals or one-offs—are being Style: Saison / Farmhouse Ale made by B.C. brewers and imported from notable producers from around the world. The brews are finding their way into specialty beer and wine shops around the province and make thoughtful gifts, not only for the beer aficionado on your holiday list but also the foodie or wine lover. Here’s why. As shocking as it may be to see a 750-mL bottle of beer (complete with a champagnestyle cork and wire enclosure) on a shelf for $25, there are a few things to consider before scoffing at the idea. First, look at the alcohol content. Most likely, it will be considerably higher than “everyday” beers, which generally come in at 5 percent alcohol by volume (ABV). Many specialty beers approach the double-digit mark in ABV, bringing them close to wine levels. The point being, these are generally meant for sharing, a special brew you enjoy with friends on a special occasion or equally well-suited for bringing to an intimate dinner party instead of wine. Like more expensive fine wines, which are aged in top-quality new French oak or made with only the finest clusters of hand-picked grapes, these beers cost the brewer much more to make, both in time and ingredients. They represent the pinnacle of the brewing art and, as a result, are usually made in limited quantities and around only for a short time. In fact, the handful you see at your local shop may be the entire allotment they received. Once gone, that may be it for at least another year. Not surprising then that the holidays are when a lot of special beers are released. San Francisco’s Anchor Brewing issues its annual Christmas Ale, made with a unique recipe (and label), every year. Many other breweries issue holiday-themed releases meant to not only capture the spirit of the season but also reflect cooler-weather drinking habits. These are generally higher-alcohol beers best served at 55°F and enjoyed in a goblet-shaped beer glass or even a red wine glass so that you can fully appreciate their robust, complex aromas. And holiday releases don’t represent any specific style of beer. Granville Island Brewing issues its strong Trappist-style ale, Jolly Abbot, while Vancouver Island Brewing makes its dark, rich eisbock, Hermannator, a potent style rarely seen outside Germany. These beers offer brewers the opportunity to be creative. Some add spices evocative of the season— perfect for pairing with hearty winter desserts. Others just brew beers that provide the warming effect of a higher alcohol level and are meant to be sipped as an after-dinner digestif in front of a crackling fire. So, whether you’re buying yourself a holiday treat, gifting a bottle to a loved one or looking for something special to bring to a holiday dinner party, consider spending a little more on a specialty beer. It may introduce you to flavours you never imagined you’d experience in a beer, and it will certainly change the way you think about beer forever.
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pairing—by Treve Ring
What to Drink with That: Turkey EAT’s online drinks editor, Treve Ring, asked local wine experts how they would approach pairing the traditional Christmas turkey dinner with all the trimmings. Then once the creative wine juices were flowing, things got creative in the kitchen – with the leftovers. OUR EXPERTS Pamela Sanderson (PS) Sommelier and Regional Manager for Cascadia Liquor Pamela has extensive experience in hotels, restaurants, wineries and liquor retail. She runs the boutique Cascadia Liquor chain and teaches for the International Sommelier Guild. Tom Doughty (TD) Owner, Sommelier of Refuel and Campagnolo As well as running two of Vancouver’s top restaurants, Tom produces wines with his ultra-small-lot Montagu Cellars in Naramata Bench. He has been Vancouver Magazine’s Sommelier of the Year and has trained in French cuisine at Dubrulle Culinary Institute. Janice Goard (JG) Food and Beverage Manager, Hotel Grand Pacific Janice completed the International Sommelier’s Guild Diploma while at HGP before opening the showcase wine cellar at Bear Mountain Resort. She has since returned to HGP, overseeing the daily F&B operations in downtown Victoria’s only five-star hotel.
CLASSIC DISH Christmas Turkey with all the trimmings Roasted turkey with sage stuffing and mushroom gravy, bourbon sweet potatoes, Brussels sprouts with chestnuts, mashed turnip, cranberry sauce. PS: Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir naturally has good acidity that works well with all kinds of food, plus the tannins are soft enough to work with white meat like turkey. This grape has an earthiness that complements the earthy flavours of the mushrooms and root vegetables and a tart fruitiness that complements the cranberry sauce and sweet potatoes. My specific choice? A pinot noir from Vancouver Island because I think this is a grape variety that works well with this menu and a grape variety that reflects our region. TD: Pinot Noir is quite versatile and changes its profile throughout the world, but Oregon (Willamette Valley or Dundee Hills) Pinot exhibits a wonderful black cherry and cranberry flavour profile with usually enough extraction to stand up to those sprouts and sweet potatoes. Mushrooms, chestnuts and Pinot Noir are a heavenly match. All exhibit a certain earthiness, which comes together to be very satisfying on the palate. The fact that pinot noir can produce a lighter wine with less overall tannins than Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon also make it a great pairing for the turkey as it won’t overpower the delicate flavours of the bird. JG: Gamay, especially a cru Beaujolais, with turkey is a beautiful thing. Gamay is gentle with tannins, has clean acidity (to cut the heaviness) and is a natural with turkey. Gamay also shows cranberry and spice and often a little black pepper, which will join the dinner festivities. BC Gamay has a pretty, sometimes smoky nose with loads of juicy red berries and herbal notes that work well with your accompanying vegetables.
1715 Government Street 250.475.6260 www.lecole.ca eat@lecole.ca
Dinner 5:30 - 11 pm Tuesday to Saturday
THE LEFTOVERS Turkey Tacos Shredded turkey, garlic, tomatoes, black beans, chili powder, salsa, sour cream, cheddar. PS: I would pair a well-made, dry sparkling wine. It doesn’t need to be expensive but should have a crisp, refreshing, acidic character that would stand up to the acidity from the tomatoes. Locally, look for Chardonnay-based bubble from the Okanagan and Vancouver Island. Further afield, Cava from Spain or Prosecco from Italy would also work well. Oriental Turkey Stir-fry Cubed turkey, shitake mushrooms, rice, broccoli, cashews, ginger, tamari sauce, green onions. JG: Any excuse to drink Riesling is a good one, and with this dish, a Riesling with a bit of sweetness is the perfect partner. Riesling has that beautiful acidity that cleans your palate, and with its tendency towards lower alcohol, it handles spice like a dream. Remember, alcohol and spice don’t get along. Look to Germany’s Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region for some beautiful options, or closer to home there are increasingly great examples to be found in Washington State’s Columbia Valley. Turkey and Pancetta Spiedini Cooked turkey, pancetta, red pepper, spaghettini, Parmesan, pine nuts, tomato, olive oil, cayenne. TD: It’s pasta so why not drink an Italian wine? In particular, Northern Italy’s Piedmont comes to mind, home to great food-friendly reds Barolo, Barbera and Barbaresco. For this particular pasta, I recommend a young Barbaresco. It has the great natural acidity to cut through the richness of the pine nuts, olive oil and cheese but also the structure and tannin of the Nebbiolo grape to stand up to the pancetta and red pepper. Traditionally, these old world wines are not too high in alcohol either so they work well with a little spice (cayenne). Plus, you don’t have to feel guilty about opening a second bottle!
DRESSED UP & READY TO GO!
For dinner out, a family gathering, home parties or kicking back at the cabin, Tinhorn Creek has the wines for the occasion. Our vineyards are located on two unique and diverse south Okanagan sites: the Golden Mile and the Black Sage bench. Our ability to blend the grapes from these vineyards and capture the best characteristics of each site sets us apart. Visit our spectacular estate winery in Oliver, BC and experience for yourself. NATURALLY SOUTH OKANAGAN www.tinhorn.com
www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
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wine + terroir —by Michaela Morris and Michelle Bouffard
WINE ETIQUETTE 101
Twelve tips for Christmas wine-giving.
Enjoying a bottle of wine in good company is one of our favourite year round activities, and the holidays offer many occasions to do so. Business lunches, elegant dinner parties and informal potlucks all demand a little (or a lot) of vino to create the proper ambiance. These gatherings bring you together with a variety of people from your closest friends and family to casual acquaintances and maybe even that client or business associate you’re trying to impress. Whether it’s social or business related, when the wine choice falls on your shoulders, it can come with a weight. How much should you spend? What should you bring or serve? How do you serve it? And what do you do at a restaurant? Have no fear; we have a tip for each of the “twelve days of Christmas” that are applicable year round. It’s the gift that keeps on giving.
priate start. A symbol of celebration, it will set the right mood immediately. It will also buy you time as you finish preparing or while you continue perusing the wine list. Champagne is a must when splurging, but there are many inexpensive bubbly alternatives such as Crémant, Cava and Prosecco. Serving wine We like to keep our guests topped up, but that doesn’t mean filling the glass to the rim. Unless your glasses are the size of thimbles, a third full is ideal. If you are going to invest in one all-purpose glass, 12 ounces is a good starting size. Both Riedel and Speigelau are very highly regarded brands. Riedel’s Overture series is an inexpensive yet reliable option for both white and red. When entertaining at home, you do not need to change the glasses each time a new wine is opened. If you feel the need to rinse glass because the previous wine was pungent, use a splash of the new wine and swirl it around the glass. Swallowing the rinse is perfectly acceptable but when in doubt, follow your host’s lead. Wine is preferable to water for rinsing as the latter can leave behind unpleasant odours if chlorinated. Make your guests feel comfortable For larger gathering or when you are unsure of your guests’ preferences, stick to what we call “crowd pleasers.” Soft supple reds and fresh crisp unoaked whites are more likely to appeal to a wider range of palates. Aussie Shiraz and Argentine Malbec are popular choices for reds, with both southern Spain and Italy offering similar friendly profiles with an earthy twist. When it comes to whites, avoid sweet, aromatic and oaked wines. Not that there aren’t stellar examples of these; they just tend to be less universally liked. You’re better off going with something inoffensive and clean like an unoaked Chardonnay or Pinot Blanc. Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley (look for Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé) is a classic. Of course, if you are inviting us over, by all means, bust out an off-dry German Riesling. Entertaining the wine savvy If your guest is wine savvy or simply open-minded, venture off the beaten track. Some of our favourite lesser-known gems include Grüner Veltliner from Austria as well as the indigenous grapes of Greece and Portugal. Besides being great conversation starters, these intriguing and esoteric wines typically offer good value for money. Entertaining out-of-town guests Introducing out-of-town clients to our local wines is a no-brainer. You’ll score extra brownie points by selecting one that is harder to get like Blue Mountain, Black Hills or Laughing Stock. If you share a couple of tidbits about the winery, it will put in perspective how small the quantities of these wines are and make your guests’ experience even more memorable.
ghynes
Bring a bottle for the host This classic tradition is fraught with controversy, but when you bring a bottle to a party or dinner, don’t expect the host to open it. As such, it isn’t wise to bring along that special bottle you’ve been keeping for years unless you and your host have an understanding ahead of time. If you know what’s on the menu, you can try dropping a hint by saying: “I thought this would go great with the boeuf bourgignon,” but be prepared for disappointment. We’ve been taunted by bottles we were dying to try as they sat unopened on the side board. You’re better off choosing a wine tailored specifically to the host’s tastes; and it’s a nice touch. Receiving wine from your guest Obviously you are under no obligation to open the bottle, but if your guest says: “I thought this would go great with the boeuf bourgignon,” why not? When in doubt of your guest’s intentions, it is perfectly acceptable to ask whether you should open their “gift” bottle that evening. Don’t break the bank for large parties You don’t need to spend a fortune to find a good bottle. There are plenty of great value wines that over-deliver for the money. Set your budget. Whether it’s $12 or $20, look for the best bang for the buck. If you choose right, your friends will think you spent more than you did. And really, it’s not about what you spend, but how enjoyable the wine is. We look to Spain, southern Italy, Argentina and Chile for delicious values. Serve/order sparkling wine to start Whether you are having people over or dining in a restaurant, bubble is always an appro-
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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
Impressing when money is no object When trying to make an impression on influential business associates or demanding in-laws, go for the classics. They are likely to recognize the famous regions and clue in that you are splurging. Both Bordeaux and Burgundy fall under the classics. Red Burgundy can be tricky, so if you aren’t sure whether your guest likes a lighter red, go for Bordeaux. They’re fuller bodied and have wider appeal. California Cabs are a safe choice and always a treat, especially in a steak house. Italy is another go-to for fuller reds with the stars being Brunello di Montalcino and Amarone. Super Tuscans with recognizable name such as Tignanello, Solaia and Sassicaia will make your guests feel extra special. If you know your dining companions enjoy more subtle wines, go for Barolo or Barbaresco. Impressing when on a budget You can still make a good impression without going bankrupt. If you can’t afford the costly Brunello di Montalcino, then settle for a Rosso di Montalcino or Chianti. They will be slightly lighter but similar in taste. The Rhône Valley and South of France are other areas to look at. When Châteauneuf-du-Pape is out of your price range, opt for a Côtes-du-Rhône. Otherwise, red blends dominated by Syrah, Grenache or Mourvèdre from the Languedoc and the Roussillon offer plenty of value and charm. Don’t be afraid ask the sommelier for advice Asking sommeliers for their recommendation is nothing to be ashamed about. We rely on them all the time. If it feels gauche to talk about how much you want to spend, point out a few random wines in your price range and ask the sommelier if there is anything else beside these that he really likes. He may surprise you with a few gems. The sommelier can also be helpful in finding a wine that will suit all the different dishes your guests have ordered. Look at the label and DO NOT sniff the cork! When the server presents you with a bottle, look at the label carefully to confirm that it is in-
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deed what you ordered; producer and vintage included. Both can affect the price hugely. When the server opens the bottle, they will set the cork in front of you and serve you a little wine to taste. Don’t smell the cork; instead smell and taste the wine. Musty, oxidized or cooked odours and flavours generally indicate a flaw. If you think there is something wrong with the wine, don’t be afraid to tell the server. Faults are more common than most people think. The server will take the bottle away and bring back another one. If the wine is in good condition, give a nod to the server. They will serve your guests, finishing with you last. Beyond these tips, the most important one is to remember that it’s just wine. It should be a pleasurable, not a stressful experience. Kick back and relax and enjoy the wine, your friends and the occasion.
Everything for the Holiday Season Wines & spirits in party size bottles huge selection of bubbles & micro brews gift wrapping and more!
SPARKLING WINES n/v Deinhard ‘Lila’ Riesling, Sekt, Germany $15.49-17.49 impress on a budget Our go-to when we need a glass of something sparkling but can’t afford Champagne. Pretty aromas of apple blossoms with bright lemony acidity and soft bubbles on the palate. Very easy to drink. Trust us! n/v Piper-Heidsieck, Brut Rosé Sauvage, Champagne AOC, France $69.98-72.00 setting the right mood
Beautiful deep cranberry colour with fantastic aromas of cherry blossom and red currant. All wild red fruit on the palate, refreshingly dry and even slightly tannic. This Champagne is bold enough to stand up to a meal.
WHITES 2009 Giacondi, Grillo, Sicilia IGT, Italy $11-13* party wine This great value wine from Sicily will transport you to the seaside. It combines tropical flavours of guava with citrusy notes of grapefruit and orange peel on the finish. Vibrant and thirst-quenching. 2008 François Lurton, ‘Les Fumées Blanches’ Sauvignon Blanc, Vin de Pays du Comte Tolosan, France $12.99-14.99 party wine One of house wine’s year round staple. Vibrant lime and stone fruit flavours with a crisp backbone of acidity. Dangerously quaffable on its own and excellent as an aperitif when served with multiple canapés. 2009 Alaris, Chardonnay-Sauvignon Blanc, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla, Spain $14.99-16.99
Open 7 days 10 am to 11 pm delivery on case orders Chilled Wines & Beers
919 Douglas Street Victoria BC 250.370.WINE (9463) www.strathliquor.com www.dontmissout.ca Ales Wines & Spirits from around the world value brands to classics
party wine
The two recognizable grapes and its flavour profile should make this wine a crowd pleaser at your next party. Fresh and characterful with flavours of apricot and white peach. Unoaked and organic to boot. Drinks well on its own, but also a great wine to bring to a dinner party if Asian food is the theme. 2009 Château Fuissé, Saint Véran AOC, France $28-32* impress on a budget If you can’t afford top-end white Burgundy and want to impress, wines from the Mâcon region are an excellent alternative. Delicious deep notes of lemon with a hint of mushroom. A great match with roasted lemon chicken. The combination is guaranteed to impress your date.
REDS 2008 Paiara, Puglia IGT, Italy $9.99-11.99 party wine Indigenous grape Negroamaro meets Cabernet Sauvignon. Soft deep rich flavours of prunes and black licorice will win your guests over. They’ll also think you’ve spent much more than you did. Simply one of the best value wines out there. 2008 Gabbiano, Chianti DOCG, Italy $14.90-16.90 party wine Flavours of bright cherry and red plum seduce your palate while refreshing acidity and a pleasant bitterness stimulate your appetite, perhaps making you crave a bowl of spaghetti bolognese. Why not throw an Italian themed dinner party this coming holiday season? 2009 Emiliana Adobe, Syrah, Rapel Valley D.O., Chile $14.99-16.99 party wine Lush and plump with flavours of blackcurrant and plum balanced by a firm structure. Whether you are out to impress (but on a budget) or trying to charm the crowd at a party, Emiliana Adobe Syrah will make you a star. Totally enjoyable on its own or with a piece of juicy red meat. 2006 Osoyoos Larose, Le Grand Vin, Okanagan Valley, $45-49 entertaining out-of-town guests Introduce your out-of-town guest to what B.C. does best. This Bordeaux blend has classic flavours of cigar box, cassis, green bell pepper and leather. If you drink it now, make sure to decant. Otherwise, bring it along as a gift for the host and tell them to put it away for the next five years. 2007 La Chapelle de Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan AOC, Bordeaux, France $75-79 when money is no object
So elegant! Delicate and complex aromas of gravel, stone, cigar box, red currant and leather. A great gift and certainly a wine to open if you want to impress. The beauty about the stars of the 2007 Bordeaux vintage is that they are refreshing, easy to drink and already approachable. *Available at private wine stores only. Prices may vary.
www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
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‘tis better to give than to receive but sharing might be best of all.
the mixologist
—by Solomon Siegel
CLASSIC HOLIDAY COCKTAILS
I’ve done it too, drunk eggnog right from the carton. This year, it’s time to raise the bar. Eggnog and other holiday warmers have a long history. The truth is, they are dead easy to make from scratch.
think global. celebrate local. www.victoriaspirits.com
Real eggnog, the way Jerry Thomas (author of the 1862 classic Bartenders Guide) was making it 150 years ago, works best cold. Take one whole egg (wash the shell first), 2 oz (60 mL) of brandy (I like Hennessy V.S.), 1 oz (30 mL) Santa Cruz Rum (I like Cruzan Single Barrel), about 2 oz. (60 mL) of milk (heat the milk first if you want hot egg nog) and 1 oz (30 mL) or to taste of simple syrup (2 parts sugar dissolved in 1 part water). This all goes into a cocktail shaker. Whisk it up before you add the ice. Those cheap, battery-powered latte frothers work great for this too, or give it a dry shake (shaking the drink without the ice). Add some ice and give the drink a good long hard shake and double strain into a glass (or two glasses, it’s a big strong drink.) Grate some fresh ground nutmeg on top. There are variations too. Made with brandy and Madeira, you have a Baltimore Eggnog. Make it with cider and you have a General Harrison’s. If you can track down a copy of David Wondrich’s Imbibe! (Perigree Trade, 2007), you will have wealth of knowledge on all of Jerry Thomas’s drinks including eggnog. My favourite hot cocktail is the Tom & Jerry, one of Jerry Thomas’s original creations. This drinks used to be so popular you can still find old mugs with “Tom & Jerry” printed on them. The popular cat and mouse cartoon duo was named after the drink. Thomas named the drink after his two pet white mice. To prepare the Tom & Jerry, you first need to make the batter. Start by taking a half-dozen egg and separating them. Whisk both the whites and the yokes very well. Then combine them and add a teaspoon of ground cinnamon, half a teaspoon of ground cloves and half a teaspoon of ground allspice. Slowly beat in a pound of extra fine sugar until it gets to pancake batter consistency. Adding a teaspoon of cream of tartar with stop the sugar from settling. That is your batter. (Make it up for a party, or put it in the fridge for your next batch of drinks. It will keep for a couple of days.) To make up a Tom & Jerry add a tablespoon of the batter into a small mug add a 2 oz. (60mL) of Brandy (I like Hennessy V.S.) or 2 oz of a mix of brandy, Santa Cruz Rum (I Like Cruzan) and Jamaican Rum (I like Appleton’s.) Fill the mug with boiling water or hot milk and grate some nutmeg on top. The ultimate winter warmer. Old school punches are great for parties, and real punches are like one giant cocktail. So put down the cans of frozen juice concentrate and Canada Dry and follow me. One of my favourite punches again comes from Jerry Thomas, and it’s called the Rocky Mountain Punch. The first thing you need is a cool punch bowl, so hit up your local thrift store or antique shop. Then you need an ice mold. A smaller bowl that fits into your punch bowl and leaves room for your punch works great as an ice block mold. Fill up the ice mold with water and freeze it overnight. Using one large block of ice has a dual purpose—it keeps the punch cool for a long time and slowly dilutes the punch. While the first cups that go to your guests pack a wallop to start the party, the later ones are watered down to keep the party going. To make the punch, pour a bottle of Jamaican rum (Appleton’s) and 375 mL of maraschino liqueur (Luxardo) into a pitcher. Slice five lemons and let them sit in the rum - maraschino mixture overnight in the fridge. The original recipe calls for sugar, but don’t add it unless you think it’s not sweet enough. To serve up the punch, put your ice block in the punch bowl. Pour the rum/maraschino/ sliced lemon mixture into the bowl and top up with four bottles of Champagne.* Give it a stir and decorate the top of the ice block with berries and sliced fruit. Then let your guest at it! You can serve up the punch in punch glasses, cocktail glasses, even teacups. Jerry Thomas called this “a splendid punch for New Year’s Day.” I think it works great for New Year’s Eve, perhaps both. Putting out drinks with love makes your guests take notice of your care. In turn, I believe this results in people taking their time appreciating them, which makes the party last longer and the next day a little easier on the head. Enjoy. *Champagne, from Champagne France, works great for the Rocky Mountain Punch, but the price starts at $65 dollars a bottle. Cava is sparkling wine from Spain and works as a great stand in. Cristalino is around $15 a bottle; great on it’s own too.
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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2010
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Visit this Fall and discover the Wines of France!