EAT September | October 2008

10th year

Local | Sustainable | Fresh | Seasonal

Find out more: EATmagazine.ca

Food Tour of Seattle

September | October 2008 | Issue 12-05 | $0.00

vancouver: new places to dine

VICTORIA RESTAURANTS: 6 DEGREES OF SEPARATION

Sage Roasted Quail with a Pear, Blue Cheese and Walnut Tart

an okanagan wine road trip

PLUS Pumpkin Bordeaux 2005 Apples Local Kitchen Kid’s Healthy Lunches Venison Tea Cuisine Camas Bulb: Native Cooking Michelle Morgan: acting & eating

FALLING FOR FALL Celebrating Food & Drink in British Columbia

R E S TA U R A N T S | R E C I P E S | W I N E S | C U L I N A R Y T R AV E L

magazine

WINNER BEST FOOD PUBLICATION

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Cookware The cleanest and fastest way of cooking.

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The bulb of — traditiona food pit—w Nation diet,

By Elizabeth

AVAILABLE AT Bridal Registry Available

for people who love to cook

Broadmead Village, Victoria 130-777 Royal Oak Drive 250-727-2110

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0themenu September | October 2008 CONTENTS

F E AT U R E S My Seattle

With the dollar near par there has never been a better time to visit.

By Shelora Sheldan + Treve Ring Pg. 10 PART ONE OF AN ON-GOING SERIES

Victoria’s Culinary DNA

Andrei Fedorov

Preserving the Har vest

by Bill Jones Pg. 31

Gillie Easdon takes us on a jouney of past restaurants and noted chefs. Pg. 13

Tea cuisine

By Kathryn McAree. Pg. 14

Tracey Kusiewicz

Sweet Lily

The bulb of the beautiful purple camas lily — traditionally cooked for up to 24 hours in a steaming hot food pit—were once a vital staple of the First Nation diet, economy and culture.

By Elizabeth Smyth Pg. 19 Michelle Morgan on eating and acting. Pg. 17

D E PA R T M E N T S

COMMON PURPOSE

29

CONCIERGE DESK

05

QUEST

30

GOOD FOR YOU

8

THE TECHNIQUE

31

FOOD MATTERS

9

GET FRESH

34

EAT TRAVELS

10

NATHAN FONG’S RECIPES

35

COVER RECIPE

12

LOCAL KITCHEN

38

EPICURE AT LARGE

18

THE BUZZ

44

RESTAURANT REPORTER

20

WINE SECTION

50

THE DISH

28

CHEFS TALK!

54

On the Cover: Sage Roasted Quail photo by Michael Tourigny, 250.389.1856 See page 8 for the recipe.

Editor’s Note his issue is devoted to the new and the old, celebrating the good in the past but looking forward to the future. Take Jennifer Danter’s Local Kitchen. By creating an autumn dinner from local produce, she returns to a time when that was the only way to cook. No “flown in” Nova Scotia lobster (good as it is), Jennifer’s menu is sourced from local farms and producers—just the way Grandma might have. Yet there are many touches of 2008.

As if to take this local, seasonal philosophy even further, cookbook author and chef Bill Jones shows us how to put up fruits and vegetables for the winter. This “old is new” trend is being picked up by chefs across the country but, oh, the results are decidedly non-traditional! How about opening a jar of Rainier Cherries in Vodka or Tomatoes with Lemon and Garlic in February?

In another feature, Gillie Easdon salutes our culinary past by delving deep into the history and lore of Victoria restaurants—and EAT gives out its first ever Local Food & Drink Hero Award. To cover this large subject I’ve divided the story into readable chunks with each chapter appearing in a subsequent issue.

Also along those lines is a multi-authored feature on our ongoing love affair with Seattle. Finally, the Canuk buck is at par and, always on the look-out for a good food bargain, we make five visits to this relaxed and unpretentious city to our south. Read on, try the recipes, visit our advertisers and send us your emails.

—Gary Hynes, Editor.

T

The PEOPLE, STORIES & WINES

2003 & 2006 International Winemaker of the Year International Wine and Spirit Competition www.peterlehmannwines.com

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

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CELEBRATING FOOD & DRINK

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Editor in Chief Gary Hynes Vancouver Editor Andrew Morrison, Contributing Editor Carolyn Bateman Editorial Assistant Katie Zdybel

Local Reporters Victoria: Katie Zdybel Nanaimo: Su Grimmer Comox Valley: Hans Peter Meyer Tofino | Uclulet: Kira Rogers Vancouver: Andrew Morrison Okanagan: Jennifer Schell-Pigott Contributors Larry Arnold, Michelle Bouffard, Jennifer Danter, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Andrei Fedorov, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, Lorraine Forster, Duncan Holmes, Mara Jernigan, Chris Johns, Tracey Kusiewicz, Tara Lee, Andrew Lewis, Ceara Lornie, Sherri Martin, Kathryn McAree, Michaela Morris, Julie Pegg, Karen Platt, Treve Ring, Kira Rogers, John Schreiner, Shelora Sheldan, John Sherlock, Elizabeth Smyth, Chris Mason Stearns, Michael Tourigny, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman Art Direction Gary Hynes Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ÂŽ is a registered trademark.

Advertising: Lorraine Browne (Vancouver Island), Paul Kamon (Vancouver), Kira Rogers (Tofino), Gary Hynes (agencies, regional and national).

250.384.9042, advertise@eatmagazine.ca All departments Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4, tel. 250-384-9042, fax. 250-384-6915 www.eatmagazine.ca eatjobs.ca epicureandtravel.com

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Since 1998 | EATÂŽ Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. All opinions expressed in the articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. Pacific Island Gourmet reserves the right to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved.

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THE CONCIERGE DESK Sept 5-7 ALPINE FOOD FESTIVAL on MT. WASHINGTON Kicks off with an alpine cocktail reception; from there take your pick of events. Cooking classes, a local foods marketplace, wild blueberry and edible forest walking tours, the Alpine to Valley Gala Dinner, and a wild blueberry cooking competition, all on beautiful Mt.Washington. www.mountwashington.ca for more information on tickets and accommodations.

Sept 6 FRASER VALLEY WINERIES WINE & CULINARY EXTRAVAGANZA Fraser Valley’s winemakers, food artisans, and favourite local eateries come together to create an afternoon of impeccable food and wine.

Live music and the valley’s natural beauty round out the event. Highpoint Equestrian Estate Community, 2pm-5pm. Tickets are $50 plus tax and are available at www.fvwa.ca.

Sept 13 WINEMAKERS DINNER IN BUTCHART GARDENS Hobnob with island vintners and farmers before sitting down to a five-course menu in Victoria’s most beloved garden. Begins at 6pm.

These dinners have been popular; for reservations call 250.652.4422.

by Katie Zdybel

learn viticulture from the growers right out in the field. $799 per person includes elegant accommodations, two dinners, two lunches, accompanying wine selections for meals and tastings, and transportation between seminars and meals (oh, and the designer gumboots too). retreat@naramatabench.com Sept 20 SATURNA ISLAND WINERY HARVEST CELEBRATION Only the Gulf Islands can pull off a festival with both wine tastings and tug-of-wars. Jump into the grape-stomping competition, chow on gourmet fare, and boogie to Jim Foster and the Rockin’ Hoo-Doos! Sounds like a slice. Contact the winery at 250.539.3521 or 250.539.5139.

Sept 20-21 COWICHAN WINE CULINARY FESTIVAL The weekend overfloweth with Cowichan bon vivant. Take your pick: wine and chocolate gala, champagne brunch at the Oceanfront Grand, complimentary tastings at many Cowichan wineries, a Saturday night dance, farm tours, hayrides, theatre under the stars, outstanding locavore fare, and original art and music such as the Cowichan Horn Quartet. www.wines.cowichan.net provides more info and helps you with accommodations too.

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Sept 13 STEWART FAMILY 100th ANNIVERSARY HARVEST GATHERING FAIR Spend an afternoon strolling through Quails’ Gate Estate winery and enjoy a bustling farmers market with live music and an assortment of organic producers, local artisans, crafts and savoury food. 10 AM - 3 PM CENTURY DINNER Celebrate a century of pioneering history.

With a “100 mile� theme dinner featuring Okanagan purveyors, Quails’ Gate wines, live music and Stewart Family hospitality.

6:30. 3303 Boucherie Rd., Kelowna, 1.250.769.4451, quailsgate.com Sept 14 PASSIONS BENEFIT FOR DR.PETER AIDS FOUNDATION A small gala with lots of heart. Nosh prepared by some of Vancouver’s best chefs benefiting the Dr. Peter AIDS foundation. 6pm-9pm. Tickets are $200, available at 604.331.3452 or www.drpetercentre.ca.

Sept 15-16 NARAMATA UNFILTERED WINE EDUCATION RETREAT Heaven for winelovers, this retreat marries wine appreciation with education. Classes on identifying keynotes and wine-pairing from award-winning winemakers in the midst of some of the most stunning wine country in North America. Pull on your gumboots and

Sept 21 FEAST OF FIELDS at VICTORIAN EPICURE VINEYARD This perennial favourite is the jewel of Autumn festivals. A sophisticated, all-encompassing gastronomic picnic that celebrates the bounty of the fall harvest, it is also a key fundraiser for the brilliant FarmFolk/CityFolk Society. The 11th Annual Vancouver Island Feast of Fields will take place at the Victorian Epicure Vineyard in North Saanich. Tickets on sale now. www.feastoffields.com Sept 27 OKTOBERFEST at OTTAVIO’S The good folks at Ottavio’s do know how to throw a party. Join them for sausages and saurkraut by Galloping Goose Sausuages, a mustard tasting, hot Bavarian pretzels, schnietzel, spatzle, and live accordion music. And of course, German beer and wine. www.ottaviovictoria.com. 250.592.4080 Sept 28 SALT SPRING ISLAND APPLE FESTIVAL There will be 350 organic varieties for tasting at the festival, including the surprising redflesh apples. Meet the growers, discover your favourite apple, and soak in the beauty of Salt Spring in September. www.saltspringmarket.com/apples October 2nd - 12th OKANAGAN FALL WINE FESTIVAL www.thewinefestivals.com MORE EVENTS ON THE NEXT PAGE

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

5

LEMONY BLUEBERRY CHEESE TART

Are you passionate about food?

Are you interested in learning how to live a healthier lifestyle?

Thrifty Foods Tuscany Village proudly presents: The Cooking and Lifestyle Centre, our new modern cooking and teaching facility located in our beautiful Thrifty Foods Tuscany store.

You can learn how to create delicious dishes through instruction, demonstration and hands-on practice with other culinary enthusiasts.

• • • • •

Cooking classes for all skill levels Private, catered “foodie” parties Corporate Team Building Wellness Seminars And much, much more!

Visit us online at www.thriftyfoods.com or call Eva our Cooking and Lifestyle Coordinator at 250-483-1222 or 1-866-751-1222

Thrifty Foods Tuscany Village 1626 McKenzie Ave Victoria, BC www.thriftyfoods.com

6

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

Proudly Supported by:

1 cup (250 mL) mascarpone cheese, softened 5 tablespoons (75 mL) lemon curd, divided 1 (9-inch/23 cm) pie crust, baked and cooled 2 cups (500 mL) fresh blueberries

Indulge your fresh blueberry craving now with this sweet finale.

In a small bowl, stir together cheese and 3(50 mL) tablespoons of the lemon curd until smooth; spread in the pie shell. In a bowl, gently stir the blueberries and the remaining 2 tablespoons (25 mL) lemon curd. Spoon the blueberries evenly over the mascarpone layer. Cover and chill 2 hours. YIELD: 8 slices

FIRST AN

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FIRST ANNUAL VICTORIA LOCAL FOOD FEST SET TO TAKE ROOT Common Energy, in conjunction with over 20 local groups, will be launching the first-ever Victoria Local Food Fest for 2008. Starting September 7th - 26th Victorians will be able to immerse themselves in the world of the 100-Mile Diet by signing up to become ‘locavores’, pledging to eat local, seasonal food for the duration of the festival. Participants will receive a ‘Locavore Festival Guide’ containing lists and information on local produce, farmers’ markets, partner organizations, box delivery programs in Victoria, as well as listings to the many events taking place throughout the festival.

Events will take place across the city and will include speaker series; bike-to-the-farm brigades; local and seasonal cooking classes; workshops on gardening, composting, and canning/food preservation; food-related movie and discussion nights, greendrinks, seed saving workshops, forums on the state of our local food system and its solutions, and much more.

“We’re really excited about this event and hope to get as many people involved as possible,” said Joe Melton, lead organizer of the festival. “The festival is designed to make it as easy as possible to discover the many wonders of eating locally and its benefits, whether that includes healthier eating, helping to reduce the carbon footprint of your everyday food choices, or supporting the local economy and community.”

Events for the festival are free of charge to participants and there will be a final dinner celebration and dance showcasing many of the delicious local food and drinks Victoria has to offer. For more information visit the festival website at www.victorialocalfoodfest.ca.

THE EAT MARKETPLACE Restaurants • Specialty Food Shops • Private Wine Stores • Resorts • Caterers • Bakeries • Bed & Breakfast Inns • Wineries • Farms FOR HOTLINKS & COMPLETE LISTINGS PLEASE VISIT US ONLINE AT www.EATmagazine.ca VISIT OUR SPONSOR WEBSITES FOR MORE INFORMATION Free listings for BC food & drink businesses - sign-up online Oct 4 & 5 SHOP THE WILD FESTIVAL at Royal Roads University offers the perfect opportunity to learn about the benefits of going green and choosing local - come and enjoy fresh and delicious wild edibles direct from BC’s farms and forests and explore the rich variety of 'goods from the woods' that producers have to offer. This is a free public event with over 50 exhibitors, wild food demos, guided nature walks and musical entertainment – its fun for the whole family! www.buybcwild.com/shop-wild Oct 23-27 SLOW FOOD’S SALONE DEL GUSTO in TORINO, ITALY At a time when modern locavorism has become hip, its important to remember the pathcutting revolutionaries. Salone del Gusto is one of the world’s largest and oldest celebrations of modern artisan and local foods. Spend a little time at www.salonedelgusto.com to acquaint yourself with the scope of this event, or if you’re lucky enough, spring for a ticket to Torino.

Oct 23 SOIREES AT MELA’S TEAROOM "The Marriage of Wine and Dessert" with Larry Arnold (EAT star and scribe). From 7 pm to 9 pm and include light refreshments. $35/soiree; $130 for all four. 796 Humboldt Street, Victoria, tel: 250-382-7750.

Oct 23-29 TALL SAILS AND ALES ONBOARD THE MAPLE LEAF A 6-day sail into the crannies of the Gulf Islands with stops for beer tastings and conversations over pitchers with historian and guide

Greg Evans. Discuss brews, food pairings, and the ‘unbuttoned’ social history of drinking and local prohibition lore of Vancouver Island. The ship takes anchors at off-the-beaten-path places for nature walks and wildlife sightings.

Local grub, such as cream ale apple fritters and Salt Spring Island lamb complement ale tastings. www.mapleleafadventures.com for details.

Oct 28 THE ALMA DE ESPANA/FLEMENCO DE LA ISLA SOCIETY is holding their annual fundraising event, "A Taste Of Spain" Flamenco Feria at the elegant Coast Harbourside Hotel. Spanish tapas will be served - stuffed peppers, devilled eggs with caviar, spicy chorizo, Spanish prawns, crab dip and lots more. There will be a dazzling dance performance, no host bar and silent auction.

Tickets: $45 and $35 for members. Info: 384 8832. www.almadeespana.com Oct 30 LA GAVROCHE WINEMAKER DINNER with Tinhorn Creek, Vancouver, 604-685-3924 November 6th-10th WHISTLER CORNUCOPIA www.whistler.com/cornucopia More events and updates are covered in Tapas, the biweekly e-letter from EAT. Subscription is free and can be cancelled at any time. Click on the Tapas icon at www.eatmagazine.ca to sign up for your small plate of EAT. Send your event listing to news@eatmagazine.ca

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

7

We Serve Seafood by the Seashore

GOODFORYOU —by Pam Durkin

FOOD M

No More Lunchbox Lament

In P

With a little creativity and ingenuity, parents can get kids eating omega-3 fatty acids and antioxidants—important for growing brains.

T

o the delight of parents across B.C., another school year has begun. While this annual ritual elicits sighs of relief from mom and dad, it also heralds the return of a familiar problem—“the lunchbox dilemma.” Parents are often at their wits end coming up with healthy lunchbox ideas their kids will actually eat. Given the scientifically confirmed correlation between nutrition and scholastic performance, providing children with the nutrients they need to power them through a school day IS crucial, but it need not be a challenge. Thankfully, researchers have helped us pinpoint exactly which foods we should be packing in junior’s lunchbox. In fact, recent studies show that certain foods are particularly effective in enhancing children’s cognitive function. Here are some top picks.

OMEGA-3’s Omega-3 fatty acids are healthy fats found in cold-water, fatty-fish (salmon and tuna), walnuts, flaxseeds, hemp seeds and salba (a new “super seed”). An important player in bolstering cognitive function, these fatty acids help the brain development of young children and can improve learning and behavioural difficulties. Try making fish more “kid-friendly” by mixing it up with low-fat mayo and chopped pickle and stuffing it into whole-grain pita or wraps. If they refuse to touch fish, go the nut-and-seed route. Mix walnuts with grapes and sliced apples, make their favourite sandwich with flax bread or add 2 tsp. of salba to yogurt—within minutes it puffs up and turns yogurt into pudding! For older kids, replace the salba with hemp seeds—they love its illicit cache. Nuts and seeds can also be added to lunchbox favourites like salads, banana bread and muffins.

ANTIOXIDANTS Fruits and vegetables high in antioxidants have been linked to improved memory and brain function. Unfortunately, statistics show the average Canadian child is falling short of the daily recommendation for these nutritious foods. The provincial government is so concerned it has initiated a “school fruit and vegetable snack program” under the umbrella of ActNow BC. But parents should be doing their part too. Simple suggestions: pair fresh-cut veggies with bean dips or salsa, make homemade quickbreads with antioxidant-rich veggies (pumpkin, zucchini, sweet potato, carrot) and sweeten with nutrient-dense dried fruits. Or incorporate your child’s favourite vegetables into soups and sauces, grating in additional vegetables—they’re likely not to notice!

A “GOTTA GO” DESTINATION! Savour an unforgettable meal while enjoying one of the most breathtaking ocean views on Vancouver Island.

We are seafood . . . and so much more!

BEACON LANDING RESTAURANT & PUB

Located in the waterfront Cannery Building 2537 Beacon Ave., Sidney, BC Reservations: 656-6690

EGGS Incredible, edible and good for the brain? Absolutely—eggs are the richest food source of choline, an essential nutrient linked to improved memory and learning. Recent research from the University of North Carolina indicates that the current recommended intake of choline may not be enough for some people to function at their best. In addition to choline, eggs provide significant amounts of energy-producing B vitamins, protein and—if you buy free-range—omega-3 fatty acids. Entice your child to eat eggs by making crustless quiche with their favourite cheese and vegetable fillings, cut egg salad sandwiches into “fun shapes” with a cookie cutter or top Scotch eggs with your child’s favourite spice.

WHOLE GRAINS Whole grain carbohydrates contain folate and other B vitamins that help improve memory function and provide a steady stream of energy so your child can stay alert all day. If sandwiches are the mainstay of your child’s lunch, switch to 100 percent whole-grain breads. But remember, kids love variety—instead of using bread every day, try whole-grain bagels, pitas or fajita wraps. Whole-grain pasta or rice salads also make a nice change from sandwiches.

CALCIUM-RICH FOODS Milk, cheese, yogurt and other foods rich in calcium improve the function of nerves. Yogurt is particularly abundant in tyrosine, an amino acid responsible for the production of the neurotransmitters dopamine and noradrenalin. In plain English—yogurt can improve your child’s alertness and memory. Non-dairy foods rich in calcium include fortified soy and rice milks, canned salmon, sesame seeds, leafy greens, figs and oranges.

IRON-RICH FOODS A deficiency in iron has been proven to be the most common cause of poor concentration, decreasing intelligence and slow-thinking processes. Lean sources of red meat, poultry, spinach, legumes and dried fruits are excellent choices for a child’s lunchbox. If your finicky little eater hates meat, make child-pleasing homemade trail mix with dried apricots, raw almonds, whole-grain cereal and black currants.

And just before you close that lunchbox, make sure you include something liquid—staying well hydrated is crucial in preventing fatigue and poor concentration. But skip the sugary sodas and fruit “beverages” and opt for low-fat milk, fortified soymilk or plain old H20.

8

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

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FOOD MATTERS —by Julie Pegg

In Praise of Pumpkin Those big, beautiful orange orbs are so much more than just jack-o’-lanterns and punkin pie.

s a child I connected pumpkin to fantasy; it was Cinderella’s humble “ b e f o r e - a n d - a f t e r- t h e - b a l l � carriage, the jack-o’-lantern, and the place where Peter, Peter Pumpkin Eater put his wife (the nursery rhyme is rooted in American soil, as is the pumpkin). The fact that I could/would eat the flesh of this giant orange orb never occurred to me.

When my family emigrated from England, mom adopted the famous Thanksgiving pie into the holiday household, courtesy of spiced tinned filling. I loved the custard pie and swooned over my first taste of pumpkin cheesecake. Still, I didn’t really associate eating sweet pumpkin desserts with the actual squash. When the penny did drop, the idea of cutting and slicing a pumpkin seemed daunting.

Until I saw the Italians do it. They hacked easily into the pumpkin, discarded its wet inner strings, fingers separating out the white seeds (that’s a chore) for roasting, cubed or scooped out the sweet flesh— then boiled it, pureed it and canned it. Not for pie but for stuffing ravioli or tortellini.

Tossed with brown butter and fried sage, this dish scores high on my list of pasta favourites.

Then came “Spitz� packets of roasted sunflower or pumpkin seeds, which, as teens, we hulled with our teeth, strewing shells about pavement, playground and poolside.

After that the pumpkin faded from fabled and edible glory. But it’s back in my culinary world.

Pumpkin, and particularly hulled, roasted “pepitas� (the Mexican word for pumpkin seeds), are fashionable right now, perhaps due to new-found health benefits (prostate health, good for bones, natural anti-inflammatory). I toss the nutty, slightly sweet dark green seeds into salads and homemade muffins, on cereal, soup (try pumpkin peanut butter) and chowders—especially corn and potato. When it comes to the pumpkin’s flesh, I think most folks still talk sweet. I’ve come to like it savoury. Here are a few recipes for unsweetened pumpkin and/or pepitas. (Butternut squash is a fine substitute). Look for white or green-striped pumpkins (best for baking) at farmers’ markets

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Salad of Arugula, Feta, Red Onion, Pear and Pepitas To make this crunchy medley, toss 4 cups baby arugula or spinach with two cups curly endive lightly in classic vinaigrette (3 parts oil whisked with 1 part lemon juice; salt, pepper and a touch of mustard). Dot greens with thin slices of red onion, cubed—not crumbled—feta (I recommend Moonstruck feta from Salt Spring Island), slivers of Bartlett pear, and a good fistful of roasted pumpkin seeds. Portion on plates and splash on a little vinaigrette. (I added croutons made from the billowy pumpkin cornmeal bread featured Wednesdays at the Old Town Bakery in Ladysmith.)

Pumpkin Peanut Butter Soup This soup is adapted from The New Basics Cookbook, Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins, Workman Publishing, 1989.

Melt half a stick of butter in a soup pot over medium heat. Stir in 4 cups pumpkin, 2 cups mashed sweet potato, 1 cup smooth natural peanut butter (such as Adams). Add 6 cups chicken stock (or vegetable stock), salt and pepper to taste. Mix well and simmer for twenty minutes. Serve in bowls.

Garnish with pepitas, a swirl of crème fraÎche (or yogurt), chopped chives and a few chili flakes (optional).

PUMPKIN MUSTARD RELISH Try it with roast turkey (or pork), or on goat cheese “toasts.� Adapted from a Gourmet magazine recipe, November 2006.

Toss 2 lb peeled* and cubed (1/2-inch) pumpkin with 1 cup sugar and a pinch of salt in a large bowl. Let stand one hour, stirring occasionally. Chill covered for 8 hours.

(Sugar will liquefy.) Simmer pumpkin with 1 cup water and 1/2 cup dry white wine in a large pot until pumpkin is tender (about 10 minutes). With a slotted spoon, remove pumpkin and put in a bowl. Add 1/2 cup golden raisins. Boil and reduce liquid to 1 cup, pour and whisk into a bowl containing 2 Tbsp. dry mustard. Stir mustard mixture into pumpkin mixture. Cool, chill for at least 8 hours. Bring relish to room temperature for serving.

seaside

sunshine & sunsets Casual coastal cuisine on the best oceanfront patios in the heart of Victoria’s wine country.

It’s not a million miles away...it just feels like it.

BRENTWOOD BAY LODGE & SPA

6ERDIER !VENUE s 2ESERVATIONS 0UB AM PM s 3USHI 3AKE "AR NOON PM s 3EA'RILLE PM

www.seagrille.ca

Roasted Vegetable Stew Served in Roasted Pumpkin You’ll find this recipe at epicurious.com (search “pumpkin stew�) or in the November 2007 issue of Gourmet. *Half or quarter pumpkin to fit microwave.

Cook for a few minutes on low to soften skin and make peeling easier.

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

9

Shelora Sheldan’s Seattle—Serious pies, even more serious doughnuts and a seriously great birthday dinner at a Seattle classic.

Treve Rin

Part one of a series on Seattle, Pike Place and Tacoma by 5 BC writers.

My Seattle

F Serious Pie: Clam Pizza

Top Pot: Old-fashioned donuts

rom long-established restaurants, to bistros etched out of the tiniest spaces, to a few corporate behemoths, dining in Seattle is always an inspiration. The concepts are fresh and well thought out, with great design, expert service and cooking that is, more often than not, exemplary. I’ve got my favourite haunts—some of which I will never reveal—but on every trip to Seattle, I try to discover some new jewel or dine somewhere I’ve long heard about. These four places have been the focus of my most recent explorations.

Serious Pie Tom Douglas’s restaurant empire continues to dazzle, this time with a place called Serious Pie located around the corner from his Dahlia Lounge. This warm room in natural stone and wood with wrought-iron chandeliers and a gorgeous wood-burning pizza oven offers eight styles of pie, baked to order, with supremo ingredients.

House-cured meats like guanciale pair up with a soft egg and dandelion greens, or pork belly with apples and black pepper. Sliced Yukon gold potatoes with rosemary and olive oil is one of my all-time favourites, as is the roasted wild mushrooms with truffle cheese. My partner and I have had several sessions here, one involving two pizzas each! The crust is perfect, not too thick or too thin, with good structure. Starters of organic salads with muscatel vinaigrette, a selection of olives, or calamari with mussels and Meyer lemon, change seasonally and—with the Pike Place market a few blocks away—with what’s fresh. The wine and beer list is small but equally serious.

Brian Canlis

Top Pot Doughnuts I never eat doughnuts unless I’m in Seattle. My usual Top Pot stop in Belltown looks very mid-century library with floor-to-ceiling wood shelves, but so retro with its neon cowboy lighting up the exterior. This sugary oasis offers the classic crullers, the glazed, the old-fashioned as well Canlis: Poached Lobster Claw as an array of decked-out hole-in-ones with names like chocolate rainbow, pink rainbow (pink icing with multi-coloured sprinkles) or chocolate feathered boa with coconut standing in for feathers. Coffee is local roast, and T-shirts and other souvenir paraphernalia are tempting—but so is an extra doughnut. If none of Top Pots’ three locations are close enough, Starbucks redeems itself by selling Top Pot baked goods exclusively. And it’s a great way to finally use up those Starbucks gift cards.

Brasa I’m always on the lookout for a good happy hour and Brasa comes as a pleasant surprise. Headed up by chef Tamara Murphy—a James Beard award winner and ex of Campagne—the menu is a beautiful work of French and lusty Mediterranean. The half-price bar menu served nightly from five to seven is a chance to become acquainted with this seven-year-old establishment. From steak frites with salad, pizzas, paella, lamb burgers or Moroccan steaks, nothing is over $7. We enjoyed the lamb burger, grilled to medium with feta cheese and a mustard aioli on a brioche.

With a glass of wine from their well-chosen list and a micro brew, we left happy and added Brasa to our return visit list.

Canlis I’m all for casual fine dining, bistros and small plates enjoyed at the bar, but sometimes a classic formal dining experience is what’s needed for a special occasion such as a birthday (my partner’s). Canlis fits the bill. From its lofty location overlooking Lake Union, the restaurant, opened

by Peter Canlis in 1950, has enjoyed more than half a century serving the dining public. With numerous awards throughout the years celebrating its excellence in all aspects of being a restaurant, Canlis’s service standards are one of the most recognized.

It’s clearly evident as soon as we pulled into the driveway of this 1950s Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired building. Valets awaited, the door swiftly opened and we were ushered into the room where an immense stone fireplace welcomed us. The room of cedar beams and stone columns was open and airy with sloped glass windows providing mountain and water views. The place was packed yet had an air of calm, like walking into the home of a dear friend.

At the head of this smoothly running machine is third-generation Mark Canlis. Having not only grown up in the business, the 33-year-old furthered his expertise with a 10-year stint at the side of famed New York restaurateur Danny Meyer, another proponent of customer service and employee respect.

The current Canlis “family” extends to 87 employees with four sommeliers and 16 staff with wine certification, including Mark and two of the chefs. Many staff have been here for as long as 27 years, and every day, employees dine together before dinner service.

With coats removed, we were ushered through the bar, where a pianist tickled the ivories, and shown to our table. We began with cocktails, perfectly wrought four-ounce martinis delivered by the bartender!

Canlis’s culinary history saw the birth of Northwest cuisine, and the kitchen continues to excel by using micro-seasonal ingredients and working with local purveyors. The cooking is French technique with lots of modern flourishes. The menu is a delightful selection of warm and cold appetizers, entrees, including Wagyu beef, a changing tasting menu, along with a few classic dishes that will never disappear. The Canlis salad, for example, of romaine, bacon, Romano cheese, fresh mint and oregano tossed in lemon, olive oil and a coddled egg has been offered since they first opened their doors and is still a hit. It was voted one of the best dishes in America by Saveur magazine. My partner went with the chef’s tasting menu of five courses with wine pairing. I stayed with the salad and the Canlis prawns, sautéed with dry vermouth, lime and chilies, another mainstay.

The salad, a take on the Caesar, had lively hits of mint and bacon to give it backbone. The prawns were perfect with a balance of flavours. Highlights from the tasting menu were the Maine lobster tail, shelled and poached in butter, served over a cauliflower puree with soy tobiko. Comfortingly rich and delicate, it was perfectly paired with a Jade Mountain Napa Viognier. A cranberry and lime sorbet was a delightful palate cleanser, and dessert of kabocha cheesecake was aligned with the season, served with pomegranate and a gingerbread and hazelnut tuile.

Throughout the evening, various employees came to our table to wish my partner happy birthday. It wasn’t cheesie or uncomfortable. They didn’t want to be our best friend, or otherwise chat us up. It was professional and exceedingly elegant.

As the light through the floor-to-ceiling windows faded to black, the black-attired wait staff seemingly blended into that blackness, lending a more subtle presence to the room. On my way back from the ladies room, someone was there to return me to my table. A wine question was handled by several sommeliers working the room, the waiter’s assistants took away plates, handled water, set places—everyone had their duties but worked together, never missing a beat. The service was so seamless, I just wanted to curl up at its feet and purr.

If You Go Serious Pie, 316 Virginia St., 206-838-7388, www.tomdouglas.com Top Pot Doughnuts, 2124 5th Ave., 206-728-1966, www.toppotdoughnuts.com Brasa, 2107 Third Ave., 206-728-4220, www.brasa.com Canlis, 2576 Aurora Ave. N., 206-283-3313, www.canlis.com

NOW OPEN Same parking lot / No trailer 10

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

Dahlia Loung

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iters.

Part two of a series on Seattle

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hink of Seattle and Vancouver as typecast siblings. Just like normal families (i.e., Susie is the athletic one, Billy is the screw-up, etc.), Seattle is obviously the older, more cultured, political type—suit-wearing, corporate-climbing, Lexus driving. Vancouver, by contrast, is younger—artsy, eco-conscious, athletic. Of course, just as with all siblings, these generalizations are broad and sweeping.

But there are enough similarities between Vancouver and Seattle to see that they’re of the same lineage, what with their strong local wine scene, fervour for locavores, and (of course) rain.

I make a point of getting down to Seattle a few times each year. Whether by car (Nexus is a lifesaver), by Victoria Clipper (no-fuss, harbour-to-harbour service) or Kenmore Air (the prettiest 40-minute floatplane you’ll ever take), the Emerald City lures me down. Besides the obligatory stop at organic nirvana Whole Foods (where I hope to live one day), and checking into either the ultra-cool and arty Hotel Max or the luxurious and chic Alexis Hotel, I’ve a few other must-stops.

Before I leave, I make a reservation for Dahlia Lounge. Its crimson-red walls and lantern-lit ceilings, open kitchen and celebrity Iron Chef Tom Douglas make for a winning formula. Douglas, a James Beard winner, is one of the forerunners of Pacific Northwest cuisine in the city and has some five downtown restaurants to prove it. Dahlia’s regionally inspired, ever-changing menu excites, as does the wine list, with numerous hard-tofind Washington producers and small lots.

Flip directly to the last page of the list for binend gems. You’ll see people waxing poetic over their menu mainstays—crab cakes, coconut cream pie, mini doughnuts—and I can attest to their cult status. If the window booths are taken, sit at the bar, in the midst of it all, and enjoy some Washington Syrah with Dahlia’s fresh baked breads and spreads ... ahh. This is how my Seattle visits kick off.

Another local crusader synonymous with Pacific Northwest cuisine is chef Kerry Sear.

His Belltown restaurant Cascadia is named for the abundance of ingredients he locally sources. Chef Sear highlights organic, hormone-free product and has a gift for elevating the norm to great heights. Take his signature mini-burgers. Available in the bar, these

Harvest Vine super sliders are made to order from freshground hangar steaks and topped with tiny tomato rounds, carmelized red onions, fresh pickle and lettuce all sitting atop the cutest little buns. They make an addictive partner alongside the well-crafted martinis and soaring floor-to-ceiling windows onto 1st Avenue.

Sear’s monthly three-course menu is an absolute steal at $35 per person. If you’re lucky enough to be there when they have Douglas Fir Sorbet on the menu, do not pass it up.

Restaurant manager/sommelier Jeff LindsayThorsen has put together a thoughtful, wellpriced wine list that’s heavy on local producers, and he is always happy to point out his favourite local gems.

A few blocks down 1st Avenue but worlds away is Le Pichet. Think Seattle’s version of Brasserie l’Ecole, but with the added bonus of being open for breakfast and lunch. That is, if you can sneak a seat in this thin room (don’t pass up a seat at the bar). Hands-down winner for best value in town, this cheerfully crowded bistro features housemade pâté, baked eggs and jambon and authentic French bread. The wine list always amazes with special bottles at prices so raisonnable, you’ll feel as if you’re stealing them. Breakfast here, with super strong caffe au lait, is a must-do.

Shifting from French country fare to Spanish tapas, one night out must be devoted to Harvest Vine. The open kitchen welcomes you to the smells and sounds of chef/owner Jose Jimenez de Jimenez’s beloved Basque region. An unwavering commitment to authenticity and devotion to ingredients ensures a ravenously loyal following. The creative tapas are matched perfectly by an outrageously enticing wine list that’s rich with Spanish bottles and sherries not seen elsewhere. The best seat in the house is upstairs, in the bar; you have command over the entire restaurant and the smells of the kitchen enticingly waft up to tempt you.

Sources on pg 12.

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

11

Do try this at home.

Vic

THE COVER RECIPE Sage Roasted Quail with a Pear, Blue Cheese and Walnut Tart

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For the tarts: 4 (3-inch round) vol-au-vent (see Note) 125 grams blue cheese, crumbled 1/3 cup walnuts pieces 2 tsp lemon juice 1 large, ripe pear 1 Tbsp melted butter 1 tsp honey Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Set a vol-au-vent on a work surface. Use a rolling pin to roll the vol-au-vent into a 5-inch circle. Place on the baking sheet. Repeat with remaining vol-au-vent. Top each vol-au-vent with half the walnuts and blue cheese, evenly dispersing them.

Place the lemon juice in a medium bowl. Cut the pear, lengthwise, into quarters and remove the core. Cut each quarter pear into slices, set in the bowl, and toss to coat. Fan an equal amount of the pear slices on top of each tart. Combine the melted butter and honey in a small bowl and brush over the pears. Top the pears with the remaining blue cheese and walnuts. Chill the tarts for 10 minutes in the fridge.

Preheat the oven to 375ËšF. Bake the tarts 20-25 minutes, or until puffed and golden. The tarts could be baked a few hours in advance, cooled to room temperature, and stored in the fridge until ready to reheat and serve with the quail.

Note: Vol-au-vent, also called patty shells, is made from puff pastry. They are available in the freezer section of most supermarkets; thaw before using.

V I C’S S T E A K H O U S E & B A R 10 0 % C A N A D I A N B E E F & F I N E W I N E S

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VA L I D S E P T & O C T. A S K YO U R S E R V E R F O R D E TA I L S .

For the quail: 8 quails 2 Tbsp melted butter 2 Tbsp chopped fresh sage Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1/3 cup red wine 1 cup chicken stock mixed 1 Tbsp flour

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Preheat the oven to 375ËšF. Tie the legs of each quail together and tuck the wings under the body. Trim the neck off each quail if still attached (roast them alongside the quail to help boost the flavour of the sauce). Set the quail in a shallow roasting pan and brush with the melted butter; sprinkle with the sage, salt and pepper. Roast the quail 25 minutes, or until golden and just cooked through. Transfer to a plate and tent with foil.

Set the roasting pan on the stovetop over medium-high heat. Set the tarts back in the oven to warm. Add the wine to the roasting pan, bring to a simmer and reduce by half. Add the stock/flour mixture, bring to a simmer, a simmer until the sauce is lightly thickened, and then season with salt and pepper.

To serve, set a tart on each of 4 heated plates. Set 2 quail beside each tart; ladle some sauce alongside and serve.

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Here’s an autumn feast that could be served for Thanksgiving as an alternative to turkey.

The quail used in this recipe came from BC’s Hills Foods, purveyor of organic meats, game meats and specialty poultry. The quail are available at specialty butcher shops. To learn more about this company, visit hillsfoods.com.

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Quail can be a little tricky to cook. It should be left slightly under cooked but in order to get the colour on the skin of the bird, I usually paint it with a thin layer of honey. When the blow torch is applied, the browning effect becomes dramatic. Nico Landis, My Gastronomy, 1987.

1034 Fort Street | 250¡380¡7654 | www.epicureanpantry.ca

12

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

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One writer embarks on an appreciative journey to uncover the labyrinthine matrix of people, places and cuisines that make up this small, food-obsessed city. hen I embarked on this mission to explore and document the evolution of Victoriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s restaurant scene over the past 30 years, I was eager, excited and, quite frankly, naĂŻve. I was mesmerized by the prospect of tracking and recording this intricate web and wealth of culinary offerings. I assumed there would be some sort of list documenting restaurant openings and closings and a wealth of well-organized, concise, readily available material. I went to the library. I called the Vancouver Island Health Authority and the British Columbia Restaurant and Food Services Association. I spent an afternoon at City Hall being passed from person to person. Gradually, I came to realize that the only way to trace this rich, complex and manifold history was to interview. And interview. And interview. Over

the past few months, during which I conducted 19 fruitful interviews, I compiled the following piece. This is by no means comprehensive, nor could it be in few thousand words. There are too many people involved, too many branches to explore and too many stories. Marvellous, when you think about it, really. Nor is it written in a strict chronological order. People told me their stories, and I let those memories take me through what I now present to you: a large chunk of the backbone of Victoriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s restaurant history offered in an idiosyncratic fashion. All omissions further serve to demonstrate how healthy, dynamic and vast the scene really is. Thanks to all who made time during your busy days to impart your experiences. Now, letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s head back to the 1970s â&#x20AC;Ś

In the beginning: Sooke Harbour House n the late 1970s, local dining just meant running into a friend or two. It had nothing to do with the sourcing of regional produceâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; except in the minds of one couple: a political science PhD and a French woman with ties to the French Riviera hospitality industry, Sinclair and Frederique Philip. They moved to the Island and purchased a modest, five-room accommodation house in Sooke, which, at that time, was the middle of nowhere. In 1979, they opened Sooke Harbour House, with dinner starting at five oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock, much to European Frederiqueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s self-professed â&#x20AC;&#x153;shock.â&#x20AC;? Armed with a clear vision, the pair sought out local farmers and seafood. They began to grow their own herbs and vegetables. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Are you mad?â&#x20AC;? was the common response, Frederique shares with a grin. However, genius and insanity are often confused, and Sooke Harbour House, with its strict edicts on local food only, became not only somewhere, it became â&#x20AC;&#x153;where to go.â&#x20AC;?

A resplendent, 28-room, internationally acclaimed destination, Sooke Harbour House has enjoyed the company and talents of chefs such as Pia Carroll (now an Edward Milne Culinary Program instructor), James Walt (Araxi in Whistler), Michael Stadtlander (Eigensinn Farm), Peter Zambri (Zambriâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s), David Feyes (Feyes + Hobbs Catered Arts Inc.) and currently the great Edward Tuson. (An interesting footnote: Peter Zambri and David Feyes both apprenticed at the Windsor Arms in Toronto at the same time but didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t meet until they worked together at Sooke Harbour House.) The restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s multiaward-winning wine cellar would put the god Bacchus to shame.

Sinclair is a Canadian representative for the international Slow Food movement and was a co-founder of the Vancouver Island chapter of Slow Food. Eating locally is no longer an obscure penchant of epicureans and eccentrics, it is now de rigueur. Nine years ago, and 20 years after the Philips opened their restaurant, a collective of chefs founded the Island Chefsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Collaborative (ICC) to promote and proliferate relationships with local farmers and secure high-quality, locally grown ingredients (the current president is Ken Hueston of

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Smoken Bones). Sooke Harbour House had definitely been ahead of its time.

Next in the series: Marvellous mall: Zambriâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and In the French Manner

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Chefs are the revolutionaries at the forefront of a movement that is trumpeting Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s food culture, introducing eaters to a new Canadian menu that appreciates native roots like never before. Micheal Stadtlander, one :FE>I<JJ of our countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most respected chefs is throwing a massive party-cum-caucus for chefs everywhere (literally, everywhere, heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s got First Air to agree to fly in chefs from all the Northern territories) in Canada. Stadtlanderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s JLE;8P# J<GK<D9<I )( " DFE;8P# J<GK<D9<I ))# )''/ agenda is simple, â&#x20AC;&#x153;I want to connect chefs to each other; I want to meet chefs from Manitoba and Nunavut. We D@:?8<C JK8;KCvE;<I <@><EJ@EE =8ID J@E>?8DGKFE# FEK8I@F know chefs in Toronto, BC, Alberta, but thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s so much in between.â&#x20AC;? The Congress is meant to be a biennial event that takes place in a different ) [Xpj ]fi ),' g\i g\ijfe <Xicp Y`i[ iXk\ region ofX]k\i J\gk\dY\i (jk i\^`jkiXk`fe `j *,' the country every year. At this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s event four major meals, (including a 13-course lunch that reflects each of the provinces and territories), and panel discussions will mix with Stadtlanderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s invitation to set up camp in his fields and join around the campfire â&#x20AC;&#x201D;with Jamie Kennedy Fec`e\ i\^`jkiXk`fe fg\ej Ale\ )+# )''/ providingnnn%ZXeX[`XeZ_\]jZfe^i\jj%Zfd the midnight snack, no less. The idea is for chefs from Victoria to Halifax to share ingredients and ideas as well as environmental concerns about our food sources. The event will be held on Stadtlanderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Eigensinn Farm in Singhampton, Ontario, Sept 21 to 22. A lot of big names will be there, but all chefs, farmers, gardeners, and others who are committed to the food business are encouraged to take part in this event that hopes to shape the future of Canadian cuisine. General public is encouraged to attend the fundraisers and other preliminary events. Tickets and more event details can be found at www.canadianchefscongress.com.

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Eat Magazine Presents

The first recipients of our award are fittingly Sinclair and Frederique Philip and the team at Sooke Harbour House (www.sookeharbourhouse.com). Sinclair is referred to as the godfather of the local, seasonal and ethical food movement in Canada and has been walking the green trail long before it was cool. Frederique is the stylistic and artistic director of the Inn and one of the most elegant people we know. For over 20 years their philosophy of local products and support of regional economics has been the mantra of the business. The results have attracted global accolades, countless awards and built a unique and truly wonderful treasure for our community. Congratulations to the team and accept our gratitude for your immense efforts.

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

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Tea Cuisine

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By Kathryn McAree

At Silk Road, tea, the world’s most popular beverage, is also the secret ingredient.

Sherri Kostian

Chef David M Chai Tea Ho

Tea master Daniela Cubelic at her store on Government St. in Victoria “Think green tea—white wine—and black tea—red wine.” Daniela Cubelic of Silk Road, a tea store and natural spa in downtown Victoria, enthusiastically explains her personal epiphany about tea and cuisine.

This may not be the standard tea teaching, but it is the first component of learning about the delicious partnership of tea and cuisine.

Cubelic, Silk Road’s co-owner, is incredibly knowledgeable when it comes to tea— one of the purest ingredients on the planet and steeped in tradition. As a tea master trained by Chinese tea masters and herbalists, Cubelic is humble and intriguing. When it comes to tea pairing and using tea as an ingredient, her depth of knowledge and comprehension is truly fascinating. You can simply pair tea with cuisine, you can flavour your favourite recipes (think of tea as an herb), or you can get busy in the kitchen armed with some great new recipe ideas.

This first component is straightforward if not somewhat arbitrary. It works well when you think of what we generally enjoy with white wine: chicken, pork, fish. These also work well with green tea, especially fish (the ultimate tea pairing is sushi and green tea). Black tea is more akin to red wine; both have more structure than white wine or green tea. Black tea pairs well with rich, oily and heavy foods. Think beef, duck, creamy pastas, or anything with an intensity of flavours.

The second component is equally as simple. Ask: what goes well together? Duck goes well with orange and smoke. Pork is delicious with fruits like peach and mango.

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EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

Cherry and chocolate are a perfect match.

Whip up hot chocolate with Japanese Sour Cherry green tea. Make a marinade for duck with Canton Orange or Spicy Mandarin black tea or simply deglaze the pan with tea just as you would wine or stock. Peach Paradise black tea would make a very nice rum and peach marinade with honey, great on pork tenderloin or even on baby potatoes and carrots. If you think of tea as an herb, it’s easy to discover what might work well together.

Cubelic has developed many recipes using Silk Road loose leaf teas from sweet to savoury as well as a whole range of beverages such as white wine sangria with hints of citrus and lemongrass and her signature mar-tea-nis like the Earl Green Teatini with lime and gin. My first experience with one of Cubelic’s recipes was a taste of chai latte ice cream on the World Feast Stage at FolkFest 2005. I was thoroughly impressed with her wealth of knowledge and the incredible flavour of the handmade ice cream. My next encounter was with Cubelic’s matcha green tea shortbread at Christmas time and, more recently, the fabulous Smoky Maple Salad Dressing created by chef Heidi Fink (recipe follows).

At Camille’s, co-owner and chef David Mincey often uses tea as a primary ingredient in the kitchen of his west coast cuisine restaurant. Along with David’s partner, Paige Robinson, Camille’s is a strong supporter of all that’s local in and around Victoria. You’ll find both Mincey and Robinson in Bastion Square every Thursday and Friday, summer and fall, running the Island

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Sherri Kostian

Victoria

tates in faraway countries such as Japan, China, India, Darjeeling in northern India, even Tanzania. “Cooking with tea also enhances the nutrient value of the food you’re cooking,” says Cubelic. They even use tea in their natural spa treatments (that’s a whole other story).

To understand what Silk Road is all about, one must look back 16 years to the retail shop and spa’s inception. Their company logo is a calligraphic Chinese symbol that translates into various meanings such as blessing, prosperity, abundance and longevity. This symbol, says Cubelic, is the core of what Silk Road is all about. She explains the meaning as one that brings “blessing into people’s lives,” something Silk Road prides itself on.

“We embrace all things tea, exploring and educating customers about anything related to tea and tea culture.” Shoppers are greeted with a tea sample as soon as they walk in the door and are offered a second variety as they browse. Cubelic’s team is well-informed, always willing to spend time to familiarize you with the shop and introduce you to their myriad products. Their level of knowledge and enthusiasm is imChef David Mincey’s (Camille’s Restaurant) pressive, and it is apparent that Cubelic Chai Tea Honey Cake. leads by example.

Silk Road’s most recent addition is their tea-tasting bar, a one-of-a-kind experience in North America. These wine-tasting-style tea tastings educate customers and their palates on the varieties, regions, preparation and finer attributes of tea and tea culture. Each begins by giving tasters the opportunity to appreciate the colour and aroma before sipping from the traditional white tasting cups. The experience is well worth planning for and reserving in advance (there is a small fee to cover this unique program). After a 45-minute tasting seminar, tasters can be sure they’ll never look at a tea bag the same way again.

Throughout the year, Silk Road runs aftera liquid dessert.” She has created her lat- hours seminars and events all involving tea. est favourite recipe with this black tea con- This fall look for a special tea and food pairtaining raw cocoa nibs. The Velvet Potion ing evening as well as one on cooking with Popsicle is made with coconut milk and Bai- tea.

Silk Road is submersed in tradition yet leys Irish Cream liqueur. This does sound ahead of its time. As Cubelic explains, “‘Tea delicious!

Silk Road uses local ingredients when- mind’ is a way of understanding the world ever possible in its tea blends and enthusi- through tea.” Cubelic’s tea mind obviously astically works with local producers such as holds a vast understanding of tea and cuithe Sea Cider Farm and Ciderhouse on the sine, creating a very happy marriage beSaanich Peninsula in recipe creation. tween the two. Perhaps we all need to put Cubelic makes an iced tea using Spicy Man- the kettle on and get cooking!

Silk Road is located in Victoria’s darin black tea, Sea Cider’s Kings & Spies Italian-style sparkling cider and a drop of Chinatown at 1624 Government St. Visit Sea Cider Pommeau. Refreshing and full of www.silkroadtea.com for more tea recipes. flavour!

Far more than just a tea shop, Silk Road, located near the gates to Chinatown on Government Street in downtown Victoria, has a cult-like following of customers who David Mincey of Camille’s Restaurant regularly refill their tins with house-blended provided this recipe for Chai Tea Honey teas in more than 100 varieties. Cubelic and Cake. He also offered the following Larose source their teas often right from es- directions: “This recipe does require some Chefs’ Collaborative market. It seems only natural that they’d wander down the street to Silk Road to shop for enhancing flavours.

“I thought I knew a fair bit about tea,” says Mincey, “until we decided to switch over Camille’s tea list and make it entirely from Silk Road. Daniela’s suggestions were perfect … much the same way a sommelier would choose the right wine for a meal. It’s pretty amazing.” Cubelic is particularly fond of Camille’s Chai Tea Honey Cake.

Cubelic and co-owner Nancy Larose have scores of inventive ideas using tea as a culinary ingredient. Use Hoji-Cha, a Japanese roasted green tea, as a soup base. Try Angel Water herbal tea to flavour white rice. Instead of adding juice as a marinade for a fruit salad, flavour it with a cold tea like Lychee Fruit black tea. “Velvet Potion really is a culinary tea,” says Cubelic. “I think of it as

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Chai Tea Honey Cake

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

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baking skill as well as an accurate kitchen scale. All measurements are weight measures except where noted. Bake until the centre of the cake is firmly set and springs back to the touch. It should be starting to pull away from the sides of the baking dish at this point as well. The cooking time is different in various ovens so you will have to use your judgment.

It is easy to undercook this recipe, but difficult to overcook it as the cake is so moist. Do not use commercial honey, only the one specified or the results will be very disappointing.

Make sure your cake pan is as close to 11-by-18 as you can get. It is crucial to have the batter thinly spread over a large area as the centre will never fully set if it is too thick.”

Sift together: 15.5 oz. brown sugar 3.5 oz. sugar 13 oz. flour 2 tsp baking powder 4 tsp baking soda

In a separate bowl whisk together: 7 oz. eggs 2.5 oz. egg yolks 16 liquid oz. strong brewed Silk Road Chai Tea 2 tsp vanilla extract 6 oz. Babe’s fireweed honey 10 oz. melted unsalted butter 16 liquid oz. buttermilk at room temperature

Add the liquid mix into the dry and whisk together. Pour batter into a well-greased 11-by18-inch pan and bake at 350ºF.

Smoky Maple Salad Dressing with Lapsang Souchong Chef Heidi Fink offers this unique salad dressing made with the classic Chinese black tea.

1⁄2 tsp. Dijon mustard 1⁄2 tsp. salt 1⁄2 tsp. freshly ground pepper 3⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

In a small saucepan, combine the vinegar and syrup. Bring to a boil, stir in the Silk Road Lapsang Souchong tea leaves and remove from heat. Let sit for about 6 minutes. Strain, but do not press on the tea leaves to extract more flavour. Discard the tea leaves. In a small bowl, whisk together the flavoured vinegar-syrup mixture, the garlic, the Dijon and the salt and pepper. Add the olive oil in a thin, steady stream, whisking all the while to emulsify the dressing. This dressing is delicious used as is or warmed to slightly wilt the greens.

T H E D E LLTA TA “ S T TAYC AY C A AT TION” “Be our guest in your city!”

Tracey Kusiewicz

1⁄4 cup balsamic vinegar 3 Tbsp. maple syrup 2 tsp. Lapsang Souchong loose tea 1 clove garlic, minced or pressed

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EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

EXCELLENT FOOD, BEAUTIFUL VIEWS WORTH THE DRIVE! Yo Y oubou, Cowichan Lake, British Columbia 10524 Yo Yo ubou R d | 250-745-3388 | w w w w.you .y ou bou bar bargr g r ill ill.com .c om

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Acting and Eating Michelle Morgan is Lou in CBC’s Heartland, she travels frequently between Calgary and Vancouver and she has just wrapped a role in a new zombie movie.

her:

But what does she like to eat?

WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITES?

Road Chai Tea

Take-out: It's a tie between Deserts Falafel in Vancouver and Ghandi's Roti in Toronto Exotic/ethnic- Ethiopian: UnpretentiousColombian white beans, rice and sliced tomatoe.

Lunch: West Coast. Grilled Salmon with a big fresh salad Dinner: Italian. There's nothing like a nice fresh pasta, and a full bodied glass of red.

Wine: I've really been enjoying Malbec and Riesling wines lately.

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Michelle Morgan photographed at Foundation (2301 Main St., Vancouver) holding an organic purple pepper.

Tell us about eating and the life of an actor?

My acting career causes me to travel a lot and live a transient lifestyle. Through my 'foodie' interests I have found so many ways to feel more at home wherever I go. One of the first things I do when I arrive in a new city is find the nearest Farmers Market. These places are always so fun, you get to buy direct from local farms (which is always my goal), and meet interesting people and local artisans. Exploring new restaurants is probably my favourite past-time in a new city. My fist day on a set I'll be heard to ask "So, where's the best Indian food in town?" or "What's your favourite breakfast joint?" I also never fail to throw dinner parties that bring together people from the cast and crew, food is the best medium for getting to know people.

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We heard you grow your own food. Tell us about it?

I befriended a neighbour once who grew plants from seeds, she gave me a few little pots with tiny little spouts growing out of them, so I gave them water and sun and the next thing I knew I had all these beautiful, delicious tomatoes and peppers. Growing vegetables is so rewarding, and it's something I can do in pots on a balcony no matter where I go. I love coming home and seeing how my jalapenos are coming along. It's a lesson in patience and care.

What’s the coolest restaurant you’ve recently discovered?

The Avenue Diner on Stephen Ave. in Calgary. This place has such incredible food, a beautiful, clean yet welcoming atmosphere, and really good wait staff. The other day I had a salmon club sandwich with garlic aoli on rye with a delicious spring spinach salad. It's only open for breakfast and lunch which is fine by me because there are not nearly enough good lunch restaurants for my taste. It is a highly overlooked meal in Canadian culture.

What will ruin a good meal for you at a restaurant?

Overcooked meat/fish/poultry. Why would somebody take a, hopefully, wonderful cut of meat and cook it until it's dry and flavorless?

Do you have a favourite “food” movie?

Like Water for Chocolate.

Fill in the blanks…

You will never, ever, ever, never eat… an endangered species. The best meal you’ve ever eaten was… My family has a farm in the Andies just south of Santiago, Chile. One year there was a reunion and we roasted a lamb on a spit over open flame. It was a beautiful evening, and I remember thinking it was the best tasting lamb in the world. Food is like acting because… Two of the best ways to learn about a different culture is to see their theatre and eat their food.

What are you working on next? I'm finishing up Season Two of Heartland for the CBC. The new episodes hit the air in October. I'm also plotting my next restaurant adventure, I've heard about a red school bus permanently parked in South west Calgary that grills the best burgers in town.

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

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EPICURE AT LARGE

TRADI

— By Jeremy Ferguson

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Let the Game begin

Unrepentant carnivore Jeremy Ferguson likes his yak curried, his kangaroo grilled and his camel roasted. But organic Canadian venison is still his favourite wild ride.

Bringing Fresh Produce from Local Farms to Your Table since 1997.

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For the best dressed kitchen Open Monday-Saturday 10-6, Sunday 12-4 1210 Broad Street, Victoria, 250.388.9906 18

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

Sherri Kostian

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ou don’t know the true meaning of “only game in town” until you’ve journeyed Tibet on a diet of yak.

These emerald valleys and skies of blue fire hang on the Roof of the World and yak, that shaggy ox of the Himalayas, is literally haute cuisine. I ate roast yak, barbecued yak, fried yak, spicy Sichuan yak, curried yak and yak burgers. Only the latter failed to snarf the dentures from the heads of my elderly companions.

Still, my penchant for game, for something wild, or the illusion of something wild, remains unswayed. My fondest memory is grilled kangaroo striploin in the Oz Outback. The ‘roo was lean and dark, rare, tender and rich-tasting. It came sauced in witchetty grubs, which Aborigines dig out from the roots of gum trees and eat raw.

Sautéed, they recall cashew nuts. For a while, I thought I might get rich by importing them to Canada: Throw a grub on the barbie, mate?

Aussie chefs fear nothing. My other big Oz treat was filet of camel, roasted by a chef in Queensland’s Daintree rainforest. Camels had been introduced to Australia in the 19th century. Now there are 500,000 wild ones overrunning the Outback—the largest wild camel population in the world. Nobody would miss one: mine was sweet and ohso-tender. Later I was treated to camel prosciutto, and it, too, bore the signature subtlety and sweetness on the palate.

In Kenya, at the tourist restaurant Carnivore, zebra, antelope, giraffe, ostrich, crocodile, gazelle and gnu thunder across the menu, all grotesquely overcooked in crackling fire pits. On the Micronesian island of Palau in the remote western Pacific, I was served man-eating crocodile, which has been known to taste like the fisherman it consumed two nights earlier. And there was the armadillo in a grotty Belize bistro; it was like eating a Brinks truck.

Canadians, so endowed with wilderness and wildlife, have traditionally cherished the notion of game as something especially ours. In 1967, the Department of Indian Affairs published the Northern Cookbook, with recipes for grizzly bear, beaver, porcupine, squirrel and, sublimely, baked skunk.

Okay, forget the skunk. Game meats and birds such as venison, elk, bison, pheasant and quail, bereft of fats and cholesterol and untarnished by hormones and growth stimulants, ought to be emerging as icons of correctness for legions of 21st-century health neurotics.

Bison seems a natural. Larousse Gastronomique, rather romantically, calls it a “typical Canadian dish,” but its leanness can be formidable. Nor has wild boar captured the public imagination, maybe because it’s just another pork chop. The thought brings me back to yak.

Years ago, Ziggy’s in Toronto sold Ontariofarmed yak at its game counter. Aha, not the wild Tibetan beast, but one tempered for gentler Canadian sensibilities. I rushed out and bought some. For two days, I tenderized it in red wine and herbs. I grilled it ever so cautiously. The yak sizzled in a charcoal haze. It looked wonderful. It was an experience, I explained to my dentist the next morning. Excavating my mangled choppers, he wouldn’t stop laughing.

Lately I’ve given up on the exotics and turned to venison. Although mostly farmed, it’s delicious, and doubly so if it happens to be organic. For the absence of fat and cholesterol, it’s second only to bison. Only the fascist brigade of the vegetarian horde might find something to carp about.

I like my venison on the bone for big flavour and big juiciness. Rib chops are just the ticket. Sear the chops for a couple of minutes on each side using an instant-read thermometer to maintain their centres under 125ºF. Take the chops from the pan and allow to rest.

Now to the pan add finely chopped shallots and garlic, frying until they’re golden.

Add a cup of demi-glace, a shot of port or red wine, a knob of butter and a handful of blackberries, easy to find in these parts.

Lightly crush the blackberries with the back of a fork. Simmer five minutes. Add salt and coarsely ground pepper to taste.

Plate the chops. Drizzle with sauce and offer the rest in a gravy boat. Side with roast Fraser Valley yellow potatoes. It’s not the only game in town, but it could be the best.

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he drums beat slowly, rhythmically, then deeper, louder, faster, urging on the six men, women, and children shovelling the earth away from the top of the covered, steaming pit. The earth is cleared, the burlap-bag covering is whisked away, and steam billows out, bringing with it the smell of the colour green. Arm-sized branches of salal and swordfern are swept away, unveiling the feast—a bounty of beets, potatoes, garlic, corn, and the star of the day’s event—the bulb of the camas lily.

This past June, the Camosun College First Nations program and the land management department of the Songhees Nation co-hosted a camas harvest demonstration and pit cook.

Present were elders as well as members of different nations—Lekwungen, Heiltsuk, Cowichan, Ahousaht, and Wsanec. A group of students from Carlos Petrini’s University of Gastronomic Sciences in Piedmont were there to get their hands dirty harvesting and preparing the camas.

So was one of the world’s top ethnobotanists, UVic’s Nancy Turner. Turner, an expert in camas, points out that camas fields were tended and managed like an agricultural crop and the dried bulbs were extensively traded all along the west coast, so vital was the lily to the native diet, economy and culture.

This strikingly deep purple flower was once abundant in British Columbia but only 5 percent of what existed before European contact remains due to loss of habitat—in particular the moist Garry oak meadows of southern Vancouver Island as well as rocky outcrops, wetlands and prairies. A white camas once thrived but played no part in this celebration. The reason is explained by its other name: death camas. The bulb of the edible camas looks like an onion but is in fact a complex carbohydrate. Like an onion, the longer it cooks, the darker and sweeter it gets (sweet foods were scarce in native diets and therefore highly valued). In traditional pit cooks, it would sometimes be cooked up to 24 hours. Cooked for a few hours, the way I tasted it, it is like a starchy taro root with a hint of Jerusalem artichoke.

Creating the food pit was every bit as dramatic as the unveiling of the steaming meal. After the rocks had been heated for hours under a fire, the food prep team readied itself for action. Racing against time (to preserve the heat of the rocks), the fire movers shovelled the fire three feet away from the pit. Someone then rammed a water-soaked pole into the centre of the stones and held it there. Other folks layered branches of salal and swordfern on top of the hot rocks, after which several people unceremoniously dumped massive bowls of root vegetables onto the leaves. The second team of salal and swordfern folk layered leaves on once again. On went the burlap bag. To cheers and a crescendo of drumming, the shovellers flung earth on top of the burlap. Bystanders pointed out tendrils of escaping steam, and the shovel people responded by slamming earth onto them.

Two minutes later, it was done. The food for the feast was steaming away, and the relocated fire was immediately put to use cooking a native bread called scow bread. Guests were handed a pat of dough, which they smushed onto the end of a stick. Some rammed the stick into the earth near the fire to cook their bread; others held their bread-impaled stick over the fire.

While the food is, of course, an important part of the pit cook, of equally importance, at this and other pit cooks, is the pause. The pause, the stretch of time between lowering the food into the pit and the eventual unearthing of it, is when people meet, converse and make connections. It is time to reflect on the meaning of the food before sharing it. And on this day, it was a time to contemplate the symbolism of this vital food source for First Nations people, the need to nurture a local crop and to participate in its resurgence, not only for First Nations people but as a symbol of food sustainability for all people of B.C.

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

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| eating camus bulb at Camosun College 25 | a hidden gem at Fresh Beginnings 20 | Chicken a la Mexicana in mole sauce at Carlo’s Cantina 21 | plus… up Island openings

RESTAURANT REPORT

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DINING OUT

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VICTORIA

by Elizabeth Smyth Fresh Beginnings, 201-239 Menzies St, 250-381-8824

Rebecca Wellman

I always get excited when I discover a diamond in the rough, a gem hidden under an unprepossessing exterior, and I don’t just mean in my now-retired dating life. At first glance walking by on Menzies Street, Fresh Beginnings looks like it might be the kind of place to grab a stale muffin and a staler coffee. Wrong, wrong, wrong. Exquisite food is being dished out on paper plates, some of it food I would be thrilled to get at higher-end places like Camille’s. Wild spring salmon is soaked in a slightly sweet, slightly piquant crabapple, maple, and Dijon glaze and then enrobed in buttery pastry in the salmon turnover. Served with greens and a balsamic dressing, this is very high quality food for only $7.25. At $5.95, feta-spinach strudel is chef and owner Jodie’s “signature dish.” It is a far cry from a basic spanakopita; carmelized onions and roasted garlic add a sweetness to the creamy, soft feta, and the pastry is once again sublime. Jodie is a fifth generation pastry chef, so it goes without saying that the sweets are also exquisite – the dense brownie with caramel, coconut, and pecan; butter rum pecan tart; orange cream scone…These are but a few of the treats in her repertoire. The restaurant can sometimes get swamped with government workers on lunch break. Be stoic. Stay in line. The wait will be worth it.

Wild salmon turnover with fresh greens at Fresh Beginnings in James Bay.

Macchiato, 1002 Broad St. at Broughton, 250-385-8900

Tuscan Bean Salad – Cannellini, tuna, roasted red pepper with a balsamic vinaigrette; Moroccan Couscous – chick peas, red pepper, cucumber, raisins, mint, cumin, lemon with white balsamic vinaigrette; Milano Panini – Capicolla, spinach, roasted red pepper, provolone, sun-dried tomato pesto.

Buzz: Pi August 7 about th Tues-Sat, 5

Rebecca Wellman

Normally when I walk by a restaurant that’s new to me, my eye is drawn obsessively to the posted menu. But what caught my eye the first time I walked past the large pane windows of Macchiato was actually its décor – the small space manages to look large, bright, and airy, thanks to the high ceiling and the cool cream chairs that are sleek and sophisticated - and soft enough to relax into. The menu at Macchiato is a match for its décor, with its simple, easy, elegance. Creative salads and impeccable paninis are the bulk of the offerings; they do a few things well, and that is pleasing. The Milano panino for $4.95 features sundried tomato mayonnaise, provolone, hot capicolla, roasted red pepper, and spinach; most importantly, it is properly grilled to a deep golden brown. The Moroccan couscous looks and tastes like summer, with its cleansing tang of white balsamic vinegar, the earthiness of cumin, and the freshness of ground mint. Tuscan tuna and bean salad is as simple and good as it sounds - cannellini beans, fresh tuna, marinated red peppers, and high quality balsamic vinegar and olive oil. On top of the flavours of these salads, I appreciate the practicality of being able to purchase a full dish for $4.95, and a side dish for $2.49. This means that when I’m running errands downtown, I can feed my four-year-old Asian noodle salad for $2.49, which is a damn sight preferable to being offered chicken strips for $6.00. Sure, she was the only child in a place that appeals essentially to the downtown business crowd, but she was most certainly extended a warm welcome.

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20

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

The Oswego - Eat Magazine Ad Size: 4.375”(w) x 4.75” (h) • Final File • July 28/08

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Carlo’s Cantina and Grill, 9816 Fourth St, near Beacon Ave., Sidney, 250-656-3833 Sidney continues to amaze me with its newfound range of quality restaurants. Carlo’s Cantina and Grill offers Southwestern Mexican cuisine.

Yes, there is a Carlo, and yes, he runs the kitchen.

And yes, there are plenty of tasty options for under $12, my ideal cut-off price, though you will have to forgive me for beseeching you to spend 99 cents more for the Chicken a la Mexicana in mole sauce.

The mole sauce, a rich blend of ground nuts, roasted tomatoes, and a hint of chocolate, is rich, subtle, and soothing. Its rustic presentation belies its sophisticated structure; if the sauce were a woman she would be a natural glowing beauty rather than a glamour queen. The black turtle Tender chicken breast cooked to perfection, beans on the side burst served with Spanish rice and black beans. With with flavour, making this dish a double winner. walnuts and almonds. $13.99 Meanwhile, other dishes are fine and filling for well under $12. The mango and brie quesadilla is fat with cheese, has a sparkle of mango, and pairs well with the housemade salsa. And the flan soaked in caramel sauce is vital to top off your meal and can, without deprivation or resentment, be shared.

Rebecca Wellman

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Buzz: Pizzeria Prima Strada opened in Cook Street Village in early August 7th, too late for a review here, but I wanted to let you know about this much anticipated new Napoli style pizza parlour. Go! Tues-Sat, 5pm to 1O pm, 105-230 Cook Street • 250.590.8595

Rebecca Wellman

K

en Winchester knew he was onto something when noted British drinks writer Jim Murray sampled a test batch of his Victoria Gin and pronounced it “stunning.” Now, only eight weeks after its launch at the Empress Hotel, the gin has sold out three times, and there is a waiting list for future bottlings. Says Winchester, “Gin is a complex spirit, much like single-malt whisky. When you see the gleaming copper potstill, smell the 11 botanicals boiling away, and the spirit trickling out of the condenser, it’s magic.” Victoria Gin is soon heading to a faceoff in New York with Oregon’s Aviation Gin for the best Gin in North America. —Treve Ring Victoria Gin is available at select restaurants and liquor stores on Vancouver Island, and at the tasting room in Saanich.

Join us for Appy Hour 3-6pm daily.

Enjoy unique urban plates, ‘O’ Bites, wine and cocktail features.

The O Bistro In The Oswego Hotel 500 Oswego Street in James Bay Tel: 294-7500

CLASSES • PRE-MADE & CO-DESIGN JEWELLERY

create

something

yummy today.

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EAT Magazine commissioned international poster designer Andrew Lewis to put his talents towards designing our 10th Anniversary poster.

Limited edition, six colour lithographic, signed by the artist posters are now being offered for sale.

They are $50 each (including shipping and handling). Proceeds from the sale will be donated to the BC Cancer Foundation to fund research in their fight against Breast Cancer.

Call 250-384-9042 to order your poster.

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1033 Fort Street, Victoria Tel: (250) 475-2632

www.skanda.ca/yummy www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

21

11 TH ANNUAL VANCOUVER ISL AND FEAST OF FIELDS AT VICTORIAN EPICURE VINEYARD, NORTH SAANICH, BC SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 21ST, 1PM-5PM WWW.FEASTOFFIELDS.COM

A FUNDRAISER FOR

Tickets available August 1, please see our website for more details.

TICKETS: $85 for adults, $15 for kids 7-12, free for kids under 7.

Special Group Rates.

Feast of Fields supports numerous local groups and initiatives The annual Feast of Fields is a highlight on the calendars of Vancouver Island’s food community, bringing together those who love to eat with the rich network of people that supplies our local food – everyone from farmers to fishers, vintners to brewers, bakers to butchers. Every September since 1997, people have come together to celebrate the abundance of our Island; a festival eagerly anticipated and much loved.

But the Feast isn’t merely a showcase of fabulous local eats and drinks for a privileged few; it serves a much more noble and important purpose. As the primary fund raiser for Farm Folk/City Folk, revenue from Feast of Fields is earmarked to support local food initiatives – ones that help sustain and enhance our local food infrastructure and increase the accessibility of Vancouver Island agricultural products to everyone in the community.

Over the years, more than $68,000 in funds raised through Feast of Fields has gone to such diverse community projects as: start-up funding for the Island Chef’s Collaborative Bastion Square Market; the construction of an industrial kitchen at Providence Farm in Duncan used to train special needs community members in cooking, food preservation and preparation techniques; the construction of a market garden at Edward Milne Secondary School in Sooke; and funding for the GoodFoodBox program to purchase local food. And there are many others.

“The most important thing for us,” says Feast organizer Jason Found, “is that we are supporting community groups in implementing projects related to local food that will have a lasting benefit to a large number of people in the community.”

One exciting initiative of FFCF is the Community Farms Program (CFP), a joint venture between FFCF and The Land Conservancy of BC (TLC). The CFP is a creative solution to the multiple challenges facing farmers in BC; particularly the high cost of farmland, the aging population of farmers and the challenging lifestyle – including low wages, highrisk and hard labour – inherent to farming.

The CFP has helped put young farmers like Ian King, Marthinus DeWet and Perry Mickle where they want to be – sharing and working the land at Lohbrunner Farm in Langford. “We couldn’t have done this without this program,” says King. “The lease arrangement allows us to feel secure on the land and to be able to make a long-term investment in it.” These young guys are excited to be able to grow food for the community and to make a viable living doing what they love.

The CFP is developing many community farms like Lohbrunner. Through the CFP, farm land is protected forever by a land trust, covenant or similar tool. Farmers hold longterm leases and are housed on or near the property. Sustainable agricultural practices, local food production, economic viability and the protection of farmland for farming are paramount. Young people who are passionate about sustainable agriculture are getting the opportunity to farm. Their farms supply locally grown food to neighbours and engage the community through local markets. Our communities, our food security and our bellies are all the richer for it.

Feast of Fields will take place on September 21, 2008.

For information: www.feastoffields.com

22

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

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Vancouver Island’s best kept secret (250) 642-3596 1831 Maple Ave. Sooke www.markuswharfsiderestaurant.com

LifeCycles Fruit Tree Products Fresh Fast Fabulous

The Express Lunch

These products are made from produce devotedly harvested by volunteers of LifeCycles' Fruit Tree Project. Since 1998 over 150,000 lbs of nutritious food - which would have gone to waste - has been redistributed among homeowners, volunteers, food banks and Vinegar community organizations.

Proceeds from product sales allow the charitable project to continue.

Thank you!

Chutney www.lifecyclesproject.ca

Pear Brandy Hard Cider Gelato and Sorbetto

Quince Paste

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www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

23

| introducing a new chef at The Beach House 25 | poutine & cocktails at The Calling, the return of the real burger king at Moderne Burger 27 | Michi Sushi 29 | plus… the best ever fried chicken

VA N C O U V E R RESTAURANT REPORT

The Bea

By Andrew Morrison

Clean lines and surprisingly good food at low prices guarantee a perennial packed house for Kitsilano's new Trattoria Italian Kitchen.

Trattoria Italian Kitchen | 1850 West 4th | Kitsilano | 604-732-1441 | TrattoriaKitchen.ca

New brin Van

Panzanella at Trattoria Italian Kitchen: rough cuts of bread among heirloom tomatoes, grapes, arugula, and house-made burrata cheese, all moistened with a red wine vinaigrette.

Food concept: Well-executed Italian standards built to share and priced to sell.

Libations: Stick close to ice-cold Peroni beer and the very affordable wine selections.

Service: Lots of it. Outstanding for a casual, fast-paced restaurant.

Must have: Any of the pastas. They have the classics dialled in.

The Calling | 1780 Davie | West End | 604-801-6681 | DenmanFreeHouse.ca

Food concept: pub fare with some unexpected flourishes Libations: there's plenty to sip from the taps, but aim for one or two of Jay Jones' drinks.

Service: it can't be good when you have to wave your server down after a twenty minute disappearing act and they vapidly wave back.

Must Have: the gorgonzola burger with bacon and Bibb lettuce.

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

This ain't your grandpa's pub: poutine and cocktails fit the bill at this ultra-modern watering hole with a view."

Tracey Kusiewicz

The Calling, revealed last summer on the southeast corner of Denman and Davie, is a re-brand rather than a rebuild. If the ownership company, Donnelly Hospitality Management, wanted a name that was more obtuse than their original choice The Denman Street Free House - they've succeeded (they also own The Granville Room, Library Square Public House, and a host of popular nightclubs). Branding aside, the new operation smacks awfully of the former. It's still a modern pub, and not an unattractive one once you get past the ugly exterior (several black shades of drab with a nightclubbish ATM machine beside a front door that is often flanked by smokers). Once inside, the room is well appointed and comfortable, managing to hold your attention with little nooks, clean lines, picture windows, and a well-tended bar. Of course there's an ocean view, a breezy people-watching patio, and sunset beams highlighting a billion dust particles floating through the air as well, but I submit that if The Calling were anywhere else in this city it would be just as easy on the eyes. The food isn't half-bad, either. Steamed edamame are boring and overplayed, but I appreciated the simple way in which they're done here: with a dusting a coarse sea salt crystals and nothing else. The sizable poutine, too, was one step up from edible with its beef and scallion gravy, even though it was priced for laughs at $9. One salad in particular was appealing, a mess of frisée with strawberries, candied pecans, medjool dates, and goat cheese croquettes all deliciously awash in maple vinaigrette. The gorgonzola and bacon burger was a hit, a half pound giant in ciabatta capped with fresh Bibb lettuce. It was fall-apart messy and drenched in cheap mustard and sweet onion marmalade. I spent an extra $1 to substitute an adequate caesar salad in lieu of more fries, making for a grand total of $11 (a bargain). The list of beers is so-so. Go for a proper drink instead. Booze aficionado Jay Jones (ex-West, Nu, Salt) just finished a lengthy stint in the employ of DHM (he's now at the Voya in the Loden Vancouver hotel), and he did a laudable job at overhauling the company's cocktail lists. Be warned, service is sketchy when the room is on the busy side of steady. Stick to the bar, where the person serving you is always front and center.

24

Tracey Kusiewicz

Tracey Kusiewicz

Without question, Glowbal Group of restaurants—Coast, Sanafir, Glowbal and the original Italian Kitchen on Alberni are some of the most glamorous restaurants in B.C. They attract movie stars and other celebrities and have a public relations machine that is second to none. As a consequence, they’re ferociously successful and have little need to be anything more than adequate in the cuisine department. This new venture, however, a decidedly less flashy restaurant that focuses on Italian food, manages to strike a more palatable balance by serving up equal measures of bling and flavour. The room, by Box Interior Designs, is a modern triumph with a sexy, summery feel and none of the over-used Italian motifs that scream of trite.

Upfront, it’s a drinks-forward lounge (the sidewalk patio is straight out of Milan), while the intimate and darkened rear of the space, aglow in shimmering crimson, makes for a romantic hideaway. The two communal tables of six that dominate the centre of the room are probably the best seats in the house. Like islands in a whirlwind, they afford diners the opportunity to take in every angle—the most interesting being the small and frenetically charged open kitchen. Here, my party saddled up with strangers and traded forkfuls of zippy penne arrabiatta for bites of forno-roasted whole trout (whispering discreetly and deliciously of lemon and herbs) while opining on how the restaurant might fit in in Kitsilano’s increasingly competitive dining scene. We all agreed that their approach to pricing, which is very approachable indeed, will prove more of a seductive siren song than the restaurant’s good looks. With pastas and pizzas averaging out at $13 per and dinner plates like classic Veal Milanese and simply grilled lamb chops marinated in olive oil and garlic not in excess of $18, it’s an overall steal. Add in a short but sweet Italianesque wine list that starts at $5 a glass and it’s positively magnetic. Service is tight and refreshingly informal, while the hyperactive soundtrack and tinny acoustics are guaranteed to raise voices when it’s busy, which is always. All told, a hectic but absolute winner.

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The Beach House at Dundarave Pier | 150-25th St. | West Vancouver | 604-922-1414 | AtTheBeachHouse.com

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Tracey Kusiewicz

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Tracey Kusiewicz

It’s funny how a restaurant changes over time. Staff members come and go, menus evolve and renovations alter the very face of the business. All of the above have happened at The Beach House Newly-installed chef Sean Sylvestre since I left it two years ago. brings talent and consistency to West It was my last job in the restaurant trade. I’d been Vancouver's Beach House. writing about food for two years prior to that, and my deal with the restaurant was always that I would never write about them while I was in their employ.

Free at last, I can now pass judgment “without let or hindrance” based on my recent experiences there.

Unfortunately, whatever insights I may have once had have been snuffed out by the fact that I hardly recognize the place. A few familiar staff remain, but the rest are strangers, including the entire kitchen brigade. This is nothing new. Sean Sylvestre arrived from his sous role at Pino Posteraro’s famed Cioppino’s to take over as executive chef. Accordingly, I’ve stayed close to the pastas on his breakout menu, supping primarily on work-of-art Spaghetti alla Matricianas, so balanced and savoury, bursting with fresh tomato and fatty slivers of pancetta; and bowls of fettuccine laden with a beefy ragu, the taste and quality of which approaches that of Posteraro’s (Vancouver’s undisputed master of the Bolognese). But the menu can’t be 100 percent Italian. The copper mermaid in the signage suggests a seafood slant, her wispy hair and near-erotic posture hinting at West Coast French. In this realm they’ve never disappointed. Pan-roasted sablefish glazed with honey and soy shines, tightly presented with a medley of fresh market vegetables. Wild salmon comes simply, flavoured slightly with fennel and a wash of white wine and basil. Without a doubt, the food is better than it was when I was there for half a decade. Sadly though, the prices have inched higher and higher, steering it into a category that includes some of the most expensive restaurants in town (the Delmonico steak with brandy-spiked peppercorn sauce tops out at $40, with a dozen or so main courses not far behind). Is it worth it? Well, yes and no. I think most other restaurants in this price range do a far better job on both the food and service fronts. Still, the quality and consistency keep it out of rip-off territory, and the two patios have few equals in B.C. (the new second-floor private room and deck are still the best-kept secrets in Vancouver’s restaurant scene). Looking out onto Dundarave Beach and the full sweep of Burrard Inlet from the Lion’s Gate Bridge to Vancouver Island at sunset comes at no charge, so groans are quickly suppressed. In the end, you get what you pay for and then some, and that’s why it still chugs along—sniff—without me.

Now, you’ve got plans.

www.planblounge.com info@planblounge.com 1144 Homer Street 604 609 0901

Food concept: Euro-West Coast hybrid at expense-account prices.

Libations: Award-winning wine list. Formidable selection of whiskies. Beer list is poor.

Service: Can be excellent, but it depends on who you get. The wealthiest postal code in Canada has made for a lame labour pool.

Must have: A soft, Basque-style pimenton and tomato soup crowned with crisped proscuitto. It loves the olive loaves provided.

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

25

Modern

Revel | 238 Abbott St. | 604-687-4088 | RevelRoom.ca

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Opened in May, the Revel Room has settled in for what will likely be a very long run in Gastown. Perched at the western entrance of Blood Alley (which leads to Salt Tasting Room), the new two-storey looker was a beast of a project to complete. Thanks to financial woes and the 2007 city strike, it took nearly two years to gestate from conception to birth. But good things come to those who wait, and Revel has indeed emerged as a very good thing. The 80-seat space begins with a high-ceilinged lounge area braced with dark, bum-hugging banquettes. A large, high-top table leads to a short and comfy-looking bar where sippers seldom surrender their seats (the place is licensed until 2 a.m.). Stairs lead up to a loft-level dining room on the right where anyone taller than Yoda may have to stoop some to navigate to and from the neatly arranged zinc-capped tables. When seated, however, it’s very charming, almost formal with its hardwood floors and modern art/light fixtures.

Chef Michael Pacey’s small and sharable menu is a well-thought-out global tour made all the more exciting by the prices (most dishes hover around the $10 mark). The quality is there, too, doubling up the bang-for-buck factor most alluringly. The $9 wokfried “Chinatown Fried Rice,” for example, arrives as a massive oval heap of steaming grains licked with a sloppy chop of sweet bell pepper and a generous pinch of green onions. One dimensional, yes, but there’s an “add curried pork” option to enliven it further for an extra $3. It’s not what I’d call “cuisine” but rather food built for beer. All of it goes down superbly well with a couple pints, from the house-made potato chips with chipotle ketchup to the bite-sized fritters made with shrimp meat and jalapeño flesh (their cornmeal-battered coats soak up a silky, green-curry-flavoured crème fraîche). When looked at through beer goggles, there’s not an off dish on the card, which makes plundering the full menu a guilt-free exercise in hoppy self-absorption.

Aromas and flavours rule when it gets busy towards the end of the night, with bowls of Manila clams being escorted about the full room, so aromatic in a white wine and fennel broth that they provoke a pleasurable delirium that only recedes once you’re blocks away. The eclectic, never-the-same-track-twice song list also seduces. As for service, it’s casual and prone to small mistakes, but it’s good-natured and relatively quick. On Friday and Saturday nights, it’s hard to find a seat in the bar and lounge area, but there seems to be fast turnover up top. Go early and stay late.

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Food concept: Globally inspired small plates with easy price points.

Libations: 17 well-priced wines by the glass and 14 beers options. Nothing too exotic.

Cocktails are solid (go for the English Ed with cucumber-infused gin and red apple).

Service: Could use an anti-anxiety pill and a glass of champagne.

Must have: “Hawker-style” minced prawn and chicken pieces skewered on sugarcane sticks and brightened with cilantro dice and chili heat. hot plates that change often. Lots of specials.

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More Gastown small plates: Hawker-style satay of minced chicken and prawn on skewers of lemongrass at Revel.

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

Tracey Kusiewicz

Tracey Kusiewicz

26

Moderne Burger | 2507 West Broadway | West Side | 604-739-0005 | ModerneBurger.ca

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All hail the return of the real burger king of Vancouver! After 14 months of renovations and not a few weeks of pre-opening teases, Moderne Burger has finally re-emerged from the dry wall dust like a phoenix from the fire (no metaphor: it was a nasty fire that first shut them down in 2005). The new digs are retro-spic and gorgeous-span, reminiscent of the diner in the movie Back to the Future (save for the fact that everyone is in modern dress—a hundred Michael J. Foxes and Foxettes). Vinyl booths line the periphery of the space (twice the size of the original) while several revolving stools and glass display cases make a U-shaped protuberance that juts long from the kitchen in the rear. Art deco details are everywhere, from the mouldings and frames to the drooping light fixtures and smooth lines of chrome-capped wood the colour of ancient arbutus. Ceiling fans whirl languidly from above, stirring air that is holy with devotion and thanks. The colour palette extends to milky greens and a light cream, with a checkerboard floor anchoring it all with the wear of ages.

There was a line-up of Marty McFlys on opening night, and it was a night that was almost not to be. They had only just gotten the final green light from the city earlier that afternoon, and the local food bloggers had heavily publicized the opening date a week before. If they hadn’t opened on time, owner Peter Kokinis would probably have faced an angry mob. But there he was, tiki shirt and worried grin, lamenting how he was already running out of beef burgers (they also do turkey, veggie, lamb and salmon). The crowd was being triaged in, like a processing mill for missing persons. I was very fortunate to find a chef I know at the front of the line together with his wife and son, and they tolerated my late addition to their order and my presence at their table (this saved me an hour’s wait time, easily). The four-year-old and I started with chocolate malteds, stirring memories of what it was like to be his age, when all that mattered was the suckability of a straw. And then my burger arrived. I’d gone the classic route with Swiss cheese, bacon, onions, lettuce, mayo/ketchup blend, and BBQ sauce. The additivefree, 100-percent beef patty tasted as fresh as it was (they’re made in-house several times a day), and the pliable bun resisted brutal contusions from my desperate, gripping fingers. Fries were hot and crispy, but totally forgotten to cool while my flavourful pal and I were thoroughly, and very happily, reunited. Get ready to wait in line, folks.

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Food concept: Classic burger joint done with immense style.

Libations: I never thought to check for booze. Seems a silly thing to want in a place like this. Cherry cokes and milkshakes or death.

Service: You place your order and receive your order in short order (imagine that).

Must have: The burger is too obvious, so be sure to have a chocolate malted (like no other drink in the world).

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Tracey Kusiewicz

Tracey Kusiewicz

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

27

Perfection Begin your career in Culinary Arts, Baking & Pastry Arts

The Dish

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High-end Fuel: chef Robert Belcham's perfect buttermilk-fried Polderside chicken with biscuits and gravy.

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THE CHICKEN: 1 Polderside Farms Redbro Chicken, cut into 8 pieces, 300 ml buttermilk, 7g kosher salt, flour for dusting, seasoned with salt and pepper, canola oil for frying

Call 604-734-4488 or book a tour online www.picachef.com 1505 West Second Avenue Vancouver, BC V6H 3Y4 info@picachef.com

Tracey Kusiewicz

THE BISCUIT: 9 oz flour, 2 tsp baking powder, 1/2tsp baking soda, 1 tsp sugar, 1/2 tsp salt, 8 tbsp cold butter, cut into 1/4 inch cubes, 3/4 c buttermilk

The culinary community in Vancouver has been abuzz of late over a dish being offered at Fuel Restaurant. Show up for Friday lunch at this Kitsilano award-winner and you'll find a veritable who's who of restaurateurs, chefs, and die-hard food fans lined up at the bar, all keen to tuck into their once-a-week special: chef/owner Robert Belcham's buttermilk fried chicken with biscuits and gravy (try to order it at any other time and you'll receive a blank stare). It sounds rather pedestrian, but you'll be hard pressed to find a finer version of this southern classic anywhere. It starts, of course, with a quality bird: one Redbro chicken sourced from Polderside Farms. A simple 24-hour marinade in buttermilk, kosher salt and black pepper preps it for a long, hot bath in a sealed bag, and then it's ready for a roll in seasoned flour. The fry treatment is courtesy of canola oil, which makes for extra crispiness. On the plate, the thick gravy (made with smoked brown chicken stock) and biscuits are just bonus points, for the bird, as they say, is the word, and the word is the bird. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; A. Morrison TO REQUEST THE COMPLETE RECIPE EMAIL: editor@eatmagazine.ca

A "biscuit" is a small form of bread made with baking powder or baking soda as a leavening agent rather than yeast. (Biscuits, soda breads, and corn bread, among others, are sometimes referred to collectively as "quick breads" to indicate that they do not need time to rise before baking.)

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28

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

Tracey Kusiewicz

THE GRAVY: 1 litre smoked brown chicken stock, 50 g butter or lard, 50 g flour, salt, black pepper

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p baking a, 1 tsp old buts, 3/4 c

Michi Sushi ("street sushi" in the vernacular) is brand new to 1513 West Broadway (604736-4244, Michi-Sushi.com), and serving up an awesome concept that'll likely catch on.

Imagine uncut sushi rolls packaged like burritos and sold to go with the perfect motto: "these rolls were made for walking". It's the brainchild of sommelier/cook Kenneth Cho, a former fixture on the bar at the superlative West (with time at Bishop's, Lumiere and Chow also on his resume). I was first introduced to these delights during an business presentation in an office building nearby, and it was difficult to keep my hands away from them as they sat temptingly on a catering platter in the middle of the table. The verdict: predictably excellent, very well presented, and attractively priced at $3 to $4 a roll. The location, just off Granville, is bright and welcoming, and the menu a puzzle of choice. Go for the prawn and avocado version with lemon mayo. It'll cause you to wonder how soon Kenneth Cho will become a millionaire. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; A. Morrison

powder or scuits, soda referred to time to rise

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

29

The

The Quest for a Good Schnitzel Alex Doubrava, co-owner of North Vancouver's iconic Jaegerhof, plates the Lower Mainland's finest schnitzel.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; A. Morrison

Tracey Kusiewicz

With a small German population, Vancouver has never been much of a schnitzel town. Still, a little searching does the gullet good. There are a few options, beginning with North Vancouver's legendary Jagerhof Schnitzel House, a restaurant styled like a Bavarian country inn (71 Lonsdale Ave, 604-980-4316). It's been serving up over a dozen different versions of golden brown pork schnitzel for over 20 years now, ranging from a Cordon Bleu version that bubbles with ham and cheese to an absolute monster soaked in salty mushroom gravy. Plated with a choice of potato or authentic spaetzle and red cabbage, they make for massive meals that pair well with ice cold bottles of ubiquitous Warsteiner (one of the owners is a Sudeten German, so Czech beers figure prominently, too). The room is splendidly dated, with antlers, stuffed fowl, and hunting prints adorning the walls next to portraits of the Kaiser and Franz Josef (it's only right, as Jagerhof translates from the German as "gamekeeper's house"). Next up on the schnitzel quest is the Vancouver Alpen Club at 4875 Victoria Drive (604-874-3811), a ground zero nest for German immigrants to the city since its inception in 1935. The cavernous space is little moth-ballish, but it's thick with a passion for German heritage and all its edible trappings, from wurst and streudel to head cheese and schnitzel. Like the Jagerhof, the selection of schnitzels is deep, but aim for the huge "Hunter's", a fried plank deliciously doused in a white wine and mushroom sauce (so large that it could double as a raft), or the "Milano" capped with tomato puree and melted mozzarella cheese. To make things particularly jolly, beer sells for $1.95 a glass. Alternatively, there is Transylvania Flavours on the West Side, the slogan of which implores diners to "Eat Like a Knight!" (2120 West Broadway, 604-730-0880). Perfectly seasoned chicken and pork schnitzels are of equal worth and quality ($12), and they arrive buttressed with mashed potatoes and green salad afterthoughts. The last option is fast food chain called, ahem, "Schnitzelz", that recently opened in the West End (781 Denman, 778737-1715). Not bad, and it's a plus that they're licensed (you can pick up a wireless signal, too), but the dining experience is considerably deadened by the flat screen televisions blaring sports and counter service reminiscent of McDonald's. There's just nothing "oompa" about it. Stick to the authentic rooms and you can't go wrong.

Pre

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EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

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. Morrison

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It’s harvest time, traditionally a time to make like a squirrel and preserve as much as possible for the coming winter.

In these days of sustainability and

100-mile

dieting,

the

traditional is as relevant today as it was 100 years ago.

Preserving the Bounty

By Bill Jone Photography by Andrei Fedorov

Memory is a powerful and fickle friend. Over the years it has served me well in my work as a chef, food consultant and cookbook author, but sometimes it just serves itself. Let me explain. Since a very youthful age, I’ve always hated dill— specifically dill pickles. Over the years the mention of dill pickles has sent shivers up my spine. Hairs rise on the back of my neck and my nose crinkles in disgust—very powerful stuff. The oddity in all this is that I haven’t tasted dill in many, many years. Gravlax—do you mind if we use fennel instead; dill pickles—really, how about sage and garlic? Recently, during some research on pickling, I forced myself to actually taste a dill pickle. Prepared for the worst, I bit into the pickle and to my surprise, the sensation was actually pleasant. Not earth-shattering and blissful nirvana, but not the vile compote I was expecting. Maybe I didn’t give dill enough of a chance and my prejudice towards an innocent herb has been misguided all these years. I’m not ready to jump wholeheartedly on the dill bandwagon, but it made me think of the power of memory and perception.

The mention of dill pickles, of course, raises the subject of canning and preserving and the bad rap these have acquired over the years is similar to my misconception of dill. It takes too much time, it’s complicated and messy, it’s so much easier to go to the grocery store and buy what I need. Most important, though, it could kill me.

How did our older generations handle these questions?

First, there were no supermarkets back in the day; necessity was the mother of invention. We grew gardens to feed the family and needed a way to extend the seasons beyond the growing months of spring, summer and fall – long before re-

frigeration or freezers. Today, necessity is largely taken out of the equation. Now we home-preserve food to extend the pleasure of the garden to the table, create a source of local food in the dark months of winter, give gifts to our friends and feel just a little smug about eating good, healthy foods.

As for time, we probably need to look at jobs like these not as a waste of time but as an opportunity to gain time to bond with partners, family or friends. It should be a satisfying day spent in the kitchen. If you’re already counting the time and money, canning is probably not the best investment for you.

If you’re counting quality of life, satisfaction and the joy of cooking and eating, step up to the preserving table.

Basic Info (Or How Not to Kill Yourself ) The moment fresh food is harvested it starts to deteriorate, slowly at first but increasing as time goes on. Oxidation, natural bacteria and enzymes conspire to start the process of decay back to compost. Preserving food at the peak of perfection is dependant on acquiring fresh produce and processing it as quickly as possible. If you make a trip to the farmers’ market for a flat of strawberries on Saturday, plan to make Sunday the day to process the booty.

Freezing is by far the easiest method of preserving in the modern kitchen. Berries need little processing; just wash lightly and drain thoroughly. Place on a tray and put in the freezer for at least 1-2 hours. Remove from tray and place in a plastic bag (label and date) for storage.

Drying is another wonderful preserving technique that is particularly great for mushrooms and tomatoes. Drying your own fruit is a revelation, particularly when you dip them in

lemon juice or vitamin C instead of using the sulfur-laden commercial process. I use a commercial dehydrator with washable plastic racks in a small countertop box fitted with a small heat source and fan. I’ve found it a versatile tool in the kitchen for everything from dried tomato slices to making my own salmon and beef jerky.

The longer the food sits, the more nutrients are lost.

Cooking, freezing, drying and canning allow the food to remain stable (in a suitable environment) for a greatly extended period of time. The food’s acidity is a key factor in how safe the product is down the road when consumed.

High-acid foods are generally safer to process and require low temperatures to cook and preserve, retaining more vitamins and nutrients in the food.

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

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High Acid: • Fruit jams and jellies, sauces, whole fruit • Vinegar-based pickles, relish, salsa and chutney • Tomatoes with added acidity Low Acid: • Canned vegetables: carrots, onions, mushrooms, etc.

• Meat, poultry and seafood: canned salmon, etc.

• Soup and stews • Tomato-based preserves without acidity

Botulism (Clostridium botulism) is a key safety risk in improperly processed food. It’s a nasty bacteria and ingestion of even small amounts can lead to respiratory distress and eventually to paralysis and even death. The incidence of food-related botulism poisoning is actually quite low and the spores are rare, but the risk of death should always get your attention. Food must be processed to a temperature of at least 240ºF (116ºC). You might notice this is above the boiling point of water (212ºF or 100ºC). To achieve these temperatures in a home environment, you must use a pressure canner to reach the critical temperature needed to kill the bacteria. Garlic is cited as a carrier of the botulism spore. I tend to leave pressure canning to the experts and focus on the safer high-acid foods.

Acid is not a hospitable host for the botulism microbe so the risk of home canning fruit pickles and tomatoes (with added acid in the form of vinegar or lemon juice) is the safest way to wet your feet in the world of home canning and preserves. Sugar is also an effective preservative when combined with acid, so jams and jellies are also relatively safe to make at home.

Alcohol is another great preserver so filling a jar with rinsed ripe cherries (or peaches or raspberries) and topping with rum or vodka is a great (and I mean great) way to make a unique and tasty harvest treat. Start now and it should be ready by Christmas. This is purely for medicinal purposes, mind you!

The General Steps to Canning The following steps apply to all the recipes suitable for high-acid canning. Locally, the most commonly available jars are manufactured by Bernardin (www.homecanning.ca) an Ontario-based supplier of home-canning products. Their excellent website should be a good place to start boosting your knowledge of canning and processing. Make sure you wash canning jars in hot soapy water just before filling and use new lids and tightening rings. Pick the size of jar to fit your usage—usually 1-litre jars for pickles and 500-mL, 250-mL or 125mL jars for jams and jellies.

Buy good-looking fruit or produce, no blemishes or dark patches on the skin and no excessive juice on the side of the box. Your local farmers’ market is the best place to shop. If you want the sunshine and experience (particularly with younger generations), farms offering U-Pick are a fun way to sample the best of the season’s berries.

Store in a refrigerator until needed. Gently wash the whole fruit or vegetable with cold water. Most bacteria and errant pesticides and pollutants are water-soluble and readily wash off the surface of most fruits. Make sure to shake off as much moisture as possible.

Trim or peel off any tough skin or stems. Work quickly in a clean work area to prepare the item for canning. Cut off any bruised or blemished flesh.

Tomatoes and other fruit such as peaches can be quickly blanched to remove the tough skin. Bring a large pot of boiling water to a boil (for fruit add a little lemon juice or vitamin C to the water to slow browning). Cut a small X in the bottom of the fruit, place in boiling water and cook until the cut starts to curl at the edges. Transfer to a bowl of cold water (use ice if you are processing a large batch). The cold water will stop the cooking process and preserve the colour and texture of the fruit.

To process all the recipes below, bring a large canning pot filled with water to a boil. A commercial unit will include wire holding rack, large enamel pot and lid. Or you can use a large pot of water with a round pot rack (or pie plate) on the bottom and a tight fitting lid.

Add the Snap lids to sterilize and soften the seal for at least 5 minutes.

Fill jars with prepared recipe (see below for examples), leaving about a quarter inch for jams and half inch for most pickles, relishes and fruit mixtures. Remove air bubbles with a rubber spatula or spoon. Wipe the jar clean (with a clean cloth or paper towel) and retrieve the lids from the hot water bath.

Place the lid on top of a clean filled jar and screw on the lid until finger-tight. Add to the boiling pot of water (preserve tongs are helpful), carefully setting it on the rack or plate.

Cook for the time indicated in the recipe (see www.homecanning.ca for critical info on how altitude affects the boiling temperature of water if you live in the mountains).

Remove the jars from the pot using tongs and use a dry towel to cradle them and dry them off. Set on a rack or cutting board and allow to cool overnight. Check for a vacuum seal by looking for an indent in the top of the jars seal. Label and place in a dark cupboard for

32

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

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Lower Salt and Spice Pickles Makes three 1-L jars or six 500-mL jars.

4 lbs (about 2 kg) pickling cucumbers, washed and trimmed 4 cups (1 L) white vinegar 2 cups (500 mL) water 1/4 cup (65 mL) sugar 2 Tbsp (30 mL) sea salt 6 cloves garlic, peeled 1 Tbsp (15 mL) ginger, minced 1 Tbsp (15 mL) hot sauce 2 Tbsp (30 mL) whole allspice

Wash and prepare cucumbers. Cut larger cucumbers into half or quarter strips. Prepare canning jars (see general steps above for tips). In a stainless steel or ceramic pot, combine the vinegar, water, sugar and salt.

Bring to a boil, reduce heat to simmer and add the garlic, ginger and hot sauce. Simmer for 1-2 minutes then remove garlic with a slotted spoon.

In a jar, place one garlic clove and a few allspice berries. Repeat with remaining jars.

Pack the cucumber pieces snugly into the jar. Add simmering liquid to within half an inch of the top. Wipe clean and cover with a sterilized lid. Top with a screw ring and turn to finger tightness. Transfer to the water bath and process at a boil (increase heat to medium high) for 15 minutes (below 1,000 ft—300 m—altitude ). Remove and cool overnight.

Stewed Tomatoes Preserved with Lemon and Garlic Makes six 500-mL jars.

8-9 lbs (about 4 kg) tomatoes, skin removed 2 lemons 1 cup (250 mL) water 1 Tbsp (15 mL) salt 6 garlic cloves

Cut tomatoes into quarters. Place 2 cups of the tomatoes in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Crush with a spoon or potato masher. Heat over medium heat until hot and starting to reduce. Add more tomatoes in batches; don’t crush, just stir into the mix. Add a little water each time to prevent sticking and help the tomato to break down slightly.

Using a vegetable peeler, remove the peel from the lemon, taking care to also remove the white (and bitter) pith from the lemon.

Extract the juice and divide, along with the peel, between the 6 jars, topping with a clove of garlic. Ladle the hot tomatoes into the jar within half inch of the rim. Wipe jar clean and top with a lid. Screw on lid and proceed with canning, keeping the jars in boiling water for 35 minutes (under 1,000

ft). Remove and cool for 24 hours. Check vacuum seal, label and store.

Blackberry and Apple Preserve Makes five to six 250-mL jars.

6 cups (1.5 L) blackberries (or strawberries, blueberries or raspberries) 4 tart green apples, peeled cored and chopped 1/4 cup (65 mL) lemon juice and zest 4 cups (1L) sugar

In a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, add the berries, apples, lemon juice and zest. Bring to a full boil, reduce heat and simmer for 1-2 minutes. Stir often to prevent burning on the bottom. Reduce heat if the mixture starts to stick or scorch.

Add sugar to the boiling fruit and stir constantly until dissolved. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook for about 30-40 minutes until the mixture gels (at about 220ºF/104ºC). You can visually make this test by placing a spoonful of jam on a plate and putting into the freezer. When chilled, the jam will not run together when cut with a fork. Pour jam into prepared jars, clean rim and top with a hot sealing lid. Top with a screw ring and finger-tighten. Place in the hot water bath and process for 5 minutes (under 1,000 ft altitude). Remove to rack, cool 24 hours, check seal and store.

Pickled Asparagus with Garlic and Chilies Makes three 1L jars.

4 lbs (about 2 kg) asparagus spears 4 cups (1 L) white vinegar 2 cups (500 mL) water 1/4 cup (65 mL) sugar 2 Tbsp (30 mL) sea salt 2 Tbsp (30 mL) pickling spice 6 cloves garlic, peeled 2 hot, red chili peppers, topped and sliced

Wash and trim asparagus. Cut into lengths that will fit neatly in the jar. The ends can be trimmed and peeled and added to the jar. Prepare canning jars (see general steps above for tips).

In a stainless steel or ceramic pot, combine the vinegar, water, sugar and salt.

Bring to a boil, reduce heat to simmer and add the pickling spice, garlic and hot peppers. Simmer for 1-2 minutes then remove garlic with a slotted spoon.

In a jar, place one garlic clove and a few strips of chili. Repeat with remaining jars.

Pack the asparagus pieces snugly into the jar. Add simmering liquid to within half an inch of the top. Wipe clean and cover with a sterilized lid. Top with a screw ring and turn to finger tightness. Transfer to the water bath and process at a boil (increase heat to medium high) for 15 minutes (below 1,000 ft (300 m) altitude). Remove and cool overnight.

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"Preserving the harvest of the farm took many forms, from freezing, fermenting, drying, pickling and root cellaring, but the one process we spent the most time on was canning.” www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

33

Primetime for eating local By Sylvia Weinstock

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Get Fresh cCARROTS are one of the world’s most versatile vegetables. Raw ones are crunchy sweet. Roasting intensifies their sweetness.

They’re “grate” in carrot cake and tender in spicy stews. Small, stubby carrots B.C.-grown Nante CARROTS are a really sweet treat.

CARROTS are known as “the poor man’s aphrodisiac.” As botanist James Duke poetically phrased it, “Some claim ginseng is the best / The miracle begetter / But carrots cost a whole lot less / And taste a wee bit better.” cCELERY is a calming, nourishing, detoxifying tonic food. It is a good source of potassium, and contains magnesium, copper, iron, phosphorus zinc, antioxidant vitamin C and beta-carotene. In Tender Buttons, Gertrude Stein described CELERY in her inimitable way.

“Celery tastes tastes where in curled lashes and little bits and mostly in remains. A green acre is so selfish and so pure and so enlivened.” cONIONS are one of the world’s first plants.

They have been extolled throughout history as a cure-all food and today are one of the most thoroughly researched medicinal foods.

Scores of studies have praised their extensive healing properties. Any dish that begins with the scent of ONIONS slowly caramelizing on the stove will stir your senses and awaken your appetite.

cIt is easy to grow bay laurels in our climate.

Growing your own evergreen bay laurel tree allows you to experience the delicious flavour of fresh BAY LEAVES year-round. cHuge, plump, juicy, sweet ORGANIC RED FLAME RAISINS are totally addictive. They are available in the bulk sections of Thrifty’s, Lifestyle Markets and the Market on Yates.

Seedless Red Flame Grapes have a high sugar content so they are ideal for making red wine.

For a different twist, try this lamb recipe using fresh Red Flame grapes. cThis is the season for B.C. APPLES. Saanich, Saltspring Island and Cowichan Valley farms grow many varieties, including Belle de Boskoop, Northern Spy, Cox's Orange, Jonagold, Gravenstein, King, Prima and Crabapples. In Deep Cove, Bob and Verna Duncan graft, grow and sell over 200 varieties of heritage, connoisseur and rare dwarf apple trees. B.C.-grown Ambrosia APPLES are exceptional.

A w

TE PH

cPARSNIPS are an underrated and underused sweet root vegetable. Fall and winter are peak seasons for fresh parsnips. The first frost enhances their sweet taste by converting the roots’ starch into sugar. Parsnips are essential for chicken soup or vegetable stock. They are delectable when roasted, or boiled and mashed and lashed with butter.

FROM THIS MONTH’S SHOPPING BASKET Braised Saltspring Island Lamb with Apples, Carrots and Parsnips 4 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil 4 Saltspring Island lamb shanks 4 CARROTS, peeled and chopped 4 CELERY stalks, chopped 2 ONIONS, peeled and chopped 1 L Merridale Cider Works APPLE CIDER 2 cups ORGANIC RED FLAME RAISINS 1 Tbsp cinnamon 4 BAY LEAVES 2 crisp APPLES, cored and chunked Salt and pepper 1 CELERY stalk, sliced 1 CARROT, peeled and sliced 1 PARSNIP, peeled and sliced 1 APPLE, cored and chunked

Heat a heavy bottomed stew pot over medium high heat and add oil. When the oil begins to smoke, add lamb shanks and brown them until they are a deep golden colour on all sides. Remove lamb from pan and rest on a plate. Drain excess fat from the pot, then return the lamb to the pot. Add CARROTS, CELERY, ONIONS, apple cider, RAISINS, cinnamon, BAY LEAVES and APPLES. Season with salt and pepper and bring to a simmer. Cover and braise for 1.5 to 2 hours, until meat is tender and almost falling off the bone. Add sliced CELERY, CARROTS, PARSNIPS and APPLEchunks during the final 15 minutes of cooking.

CREAM OF THE CROP Pumpkins Corn Kiwis Lavender Tomatoes Swiss Chard Leeks Sugar Snap Peas 34

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

Chestnuts Beets Asian Pears Artichokes Quince Honeydew Melons Fingerling Potatoes Cucumbers

Cabbage Green Beans Broad Beans Peas Vegetable Marrow Garlic Radishes Butternut Squash

Mo

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Around the World with Apples TEXT by Nathan Fong PHOTOS by Tandy Sean Arnold

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Marrow

Mom’s Apple Cake

Squash www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

35

A

pple trees, one of the oldest and most widely cultivated fruit trees in the world, are believed to be native to southwestern Asia. Cultivated since ancient times, this simple fruit has always been highly symbolic—from the forbidden fruit to the fruit of knowledge.

Growing up in B.C., I didn’t ever hear “an apple a day keeps the doctor away.” My father had a wonderful supermarket and I was fortunate to work there during my school years and be introduced to the bounty of our province’s best tree fruits. B.C. apple production, once one of the crowning glories of our agricultural industry, has fallen behind due to increased competition from foreign growers as well as more important crops such as our everincreasing wine industry.

Nonetheless, our apple production is still one of the largest tree fruit crops grown in Canada with about 30 percent of the total industry coming from our province and accounting for about 175,000 tons. Of that, British Columbians consume 25 percent of the apples grown here. Although there are more than 100 commercial varieties grown in North America, the main ones grown in the province are Red and Golden Delicious, McIntosh and Spartan. Newer varieties such as Jonagold, Gala, Braeburn, Fuji and Ambrosia are now being widely planted because of their consumer popularity. About two-thirds of the apples grown in B.C. are eaten as fresh fruit, the remainder are processed for fresh and frozen apple juice, sauce, cider and vinegar, as well as a variety of novelty items such as chips, fruit leather and pie fillings.

One of the best apple festivals in North America is held on Salt Spring Island every fall. This year mark’s the 10th annual apple festival and will be held on Sunday September 28. Some 350 different apple varieties are grown organically on the island and some heirloom varieties are still available. (www.saltspringmarket.com/apples) This pasture-rich island has a long apple growing history that dates back to 1860.

The following are some of my favourite recipes made with this quintessential fall fruit.

Mom’s Apple Cake I was one lucky kid growing up as my mother would often bake this superb home-style cake as we were coming in from school, filling our home with wonderful aromas of apple and cinnamon. This recipe is so simple and is best served warm and the day it is baked.

1 1/2 cup flour 1 cup sugar 2 1/2 tsp baking powder 4 eggs 3/4 cup canola oil 3 to 4 apples, peeled, cored and cut into 1/4-inch slices cup sugar 1 tsp cinnamon Preheat oven to 350ºF. In a large mixing bowl add the flour, sugar, baking powder and mix well. Make a well in the centre and add the eggs and the canola oil. Beat well until the batter is smooth.

Spread half of the batter on the bottom of a 9-by-9-inch square pan. Toss together the apples, 1/4 cup sugar and cinnamon until well mixed and place over the batter.

Spread the rest of the batter over top the apples and bake 45 minutes to 1 hour or until the top is golden brown and a toothpick comes out clean from the centre of the cake.

Allow to cool and sprinkle with icing sugar.

36

Pork with Potatoes, Peppers and Apples (Aloo aur simla mirch gosht) I’ve always thought of apple trees as distinctly North American, but I was surprised at the assortment available when I visited the markets on a recent trip to India. I called upon my cookbook author friend Raghavan Iyer, based in Minneapolis, and asked him if apples made their way into curries. The answer is these two recipes from his latest cookbook, 660 Curries, published by Workman. Apples, primarily grown in the cooler climate of Kashmir in northern India, are both eaten fresh and cooked in succulent, savoury curries all across this subcontinent. Their sweet, slightly tart, juicy character punctuates everything from pork to eggplant. Chutneys and pickles are also fair game for this crisp, juicy fruit. Serves 6.

Spartan A cross between a McIntosh and a Yellow Newton. Crisper, more colourful and sweeter than the McIntosh, medium to large, round, dark rd skin with small white spots. Great for all purposes.

2 medium-size russet or Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled, cut into 1-inch cubes and submerged in a bowl of cold water to prevent browning 1 1/4 pounds boneless pork loin chops, cut into 1-inch cubes 2 Tbsp plain yogurt 1 1/2 tsp coarse kosher or sea salt 1 tsp fennel seeds, ground 1 tsp ground ginger 1 tsp black cumin seeds, ground 1 tsp dill seeds, ground 2 tsp ground Kashmiri chilies; or 1/2 tsp ground red pepper (cayenne) mixed with 1 1/2 tsp sweet paprika 6 large cloves garlic, finely chopped Seeds from 2 black cardamom pods, ground 2 Tbsp mustard oil or vegetable oil 1 medium-size green bell pepper, cut in half lengthwise, stem and seeds removed, cut into 1-inch pieces 2 Tbsp tomato paste 1 large, tart-sweet, crisp apple (such as Braeburn), cored and cut into 1-inch pieces 2 Tbsp finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems

Apple, Pear and Goat’s Cheese Gratin This simple gratin is made with fall tree fruits and makes a great accompaniment with a simple roasted chicken.

Serves 4 to 6 3 large tart apples, such as Granny Smith, Jonagold or Cortland, peeled and cored 2 large, slightly under-ripe pears, such as Bosc or Anjou, peeled and cored 1 small sweet onion, very thinly sliced 1/2 cup goat’s cheese (2 oz) 1 Tbsp fresh thyme leaves 2 Tbsp fresh bread crumbs 2 Tbsp grated Cheddar cheese Using a mandoline, slice the apples and pears very thin. In a non-stick 9-by-12-inch baking sheet, arrange half of the apple slices, overlapping, on the bottom of the pan. Spread one-third of the onion over the apples, then crumble onethird of the goat’s cheese then one third of the thyme leaves. Arrange all the pear slices, overlapping, over the top and sprinkle with one-half of the remaining onion, goat’s cheese and thyme leaves. Top with the remaining apple slices, followed by the remaining onion, goat’s cheese and thyme. In a small bowl, combine the bread crumbs and the Cheddar cheese and sprinkle over the top.

Place in preheated 425ºF oven for about 15 minutes or until the crust is browned and the Cheddar cheese has melted.

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

Drain the potatoes and pat them dry with paper towels.

Combine the pork, potatoes, yogurt, salt, fennel, ginger, cumin, dill, Kashmiri chilies, garlic and cardamom in a medium-size bowl. Toss to mix well. Refrigerate, covered, for at least 30 minutes or as long as overnight, to allow the flavours to permeate the meat.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the bell pepper and stir-fry until the intense heat causes the pieces to blister, 3 to 5 minutes.

Add the pork and potatoes, including any residual marinade.

Cook, stirring occasionally, until the meat is seared and the potatoes are browned, 5 to 8 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and 1 cup water and scrape the bottom of the pan to deglaze it, releasing any browned bits of meat, vegetables and spice. Fold in the apple pieces and heat to a boil. Then reduce the heat to medium-low, cover the pan and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the meat is fork-tender, 20 to 25 minutes. (The vegetables will be tender too but surprisingly maintain their shape.)

Stir in the cilantro and serve.

Beef and lamb are both excellent alternatives to pork here, but do adjust for a longer stewing time to yield tender meat.

If you want to try chicken, I recommend using bone-in pieces to maintain the meat’s succulence.

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Tarte Tatin This is one of my favourite classic French desserts. I love the combination of tart apples caramelized with sugar with a hint of spice. Although it looks difficult to make, it’s an easy recipe and so comforting. Serve with whipped cream or, as the French do, a sweetened crème fraîche. Serves 6.

1 package frozen pastry dough, thawed 5 to 6 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and quartered 1 tsp cinnamon 1/2 tsp nutmeg 1 cup sugar 4 Tbsp unsalted butter, cut into small pieces 1 large egg, beaten On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into a 12- to 13-inch circle. Trim rough edges if necessary to make a round shape. Transfer the dough to a parchment-paperlined sheet pan, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

Heat oven to 400ºF. Toss the apples with the spices and 1/4 cup of the sugar.

In a 10-inch cast-iron pan or other heavy-based oven-proof skillet, heat the remaining 3/4 cup sugar over medium high heat until it turns a dark amber colour. Add the butter and stir it into the caramel until melted and well mixed, being careful as the butter will make the caramel sputter.

Remove from heat and beginning from the outside, carefully set the apples in the caramel, arranging them in a circle so that they all face the same way. Set them very close together until the pan is filled with a single layer of the apples. Return the pan to the heat and allow the apples to cook for 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Place the cold pie dough over the apples, tucking the edges into the sides of the pan, working quickly so as not to burn your fingers or melt the dough. Brush the dough with the beaten egg and immediately place into the hot oven.

Bake for 15 minutes; lower the temperature to 375ºF and bake until the crust is nicely browned and the caramel is bubbling around the edges of the pan, about another 15 minutes.

Carefully remove the tart from the oven and allow to rest in the skillet for about 20 minutes. Invert the tart onto a serving platter. Best served immediately or allow to cool and warm up before serving.

Ambrosia

This new variety was created in BC and is slowly becoming popular for it’s crisp, sweet and juicy texture and flavour. Great for fresh and baking.

Tarte Tatin www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

37

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This page: Cider Braised Pork with Celery Root & Cauliflower Puree Recipes by JENNIFER DANTER and HEATHER McGUIRE Prop and food styling by JENNIFER DANTER Photography

by REBECCA WELLMAN

38

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

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“ A comforting country fall dinner”

Mushroom Cappuccino

Mushroom Cappuccino Whether it’s made with seasonal chanterelles and pine mushrooms or a mix of beautiful button and shiitakes, fresh mushroom soup is earthy and glorious. Whipping the cream and adding just before serving makes it bubble and froth – like a savoury cappuccino.

Makes 8 cups A mix of mushrooms, such as chanterelles, pine, field mushrooms, shiitake, 2 lbs Avalon Butter, 2 tbsp Sweet onion, finely chopped, 1 Sea salt, 2 tsp Dry sherry or Madeira, 1/2 cup Freshly ground black pepper 1 tsp Freshly ground nutmeg 1/2 tsp Chicken stock, 6 cups 35% Heavy Cream, 1 cup Clean and trim mushrooms. Slice large mushrooms into smaller pieces but don’t finely chop – keep pieces slightly chunky. Melt butter in a stockpot or very large wide saucepan set over medium heat. Add onions and 1 tsp salt. Stir often until soft, 8 to 10 minutes.

Deglaze pan with sherry, then add half the mushrooms. Cover and increase heat to medium-high. Stir occasionally until volume deflates, then add remaining mushrooms. Sprinkle with remaining salt, pepper and nutmeg. Stir often, until soft, then add stock. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring often until mushrooms are tender, about 20 minutes.

Use a hand blender to coarsely blitz mushrooms – don’t puree soup – mushrooms should still be fairly chunky. Add more broth if soup is too thick, but keep in mind the cream will thin it out later. If making ahead, cover and refrigerate up to 5 days or freeze up to 3 months.

Whip cream (add pinches of salt of and pepper if you wish). Spoon a dollop into warm coffee cups or bowls.

Ladle hot soup overtop. Garnish with slivers of green onion. Serve immediately.

Cider Braised Pork Anything slow cooked is pure comfort food – and this braised pork is incredibly rich and soul satisfying. Pick up a jug or two of harvest apple cider at your local market. A good splash of local mead adds honey-caramel flavour that turns into a wicked sauce when pureed with the slow roasted onions and caraway seeds. Serves 8 Bone-in pork shoulder, 6 to 8 lbs Olive oil Avalon butter, 2 tbsp Garlic cloves, minced, 5 Onions, thinly sliced, 2 Sea salt, 1 tsp Caraway seeds, 1 tsp Mead, 1 cup* Apple Cider*, preferably unfiltered, 2 to 3 cups Score fat on top of pork. Coat a very large wide saucepan or small roasting pan just large enough to hold pork with oil and set over medium-high heat. Sear pork, 2 minutes per side, then remove from pan.

Reduce heat to medium and add butter. When melted stir in garlic, onions, salt and caraway seeds. Cook until softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Deglaze pan with mead, then add 2 cups cider. Bring to a boil, then add meat. The liquid should only come about halfway up the meat. Add remaining cider, if necessary.

Cover with a tight-fitting lid and braise in preheated

300F oven, turning meat over every hour until tender.

This will take about 31/2 to 4 hours.

Place meat on a cutting board and cover with foil to keep warm. Let stand at least 20 minutes before slicing.

While meat is resting, puree sauce, then return to saucepan. Boil, stirring often, until thickened. Thickly slice pork and serve with sauce.

Finishing Trick: A fresh herb puree adds another layer of flavour to the finished dish. Coarsely chop 1 bunch cilantro, then place in a blender. Pour 1/3 cup warm olive oil and 1/2 tsp sea salt overtop. Whirl until pureed. Add more oil if mixture is too thick – you want to lightly drizzle over the thick slices of pork. *Try a local mead from Tugwell Creek Honey Farm and Meadery. It's sold in many liquor stores on the Island as well as Vancouver. www.tugwellcreekfarm.com/buy.htm Or pick up something from Middle Mountain Mead from Hornby Island. middlemountainmead.com/wheretobuy If you don't want to use mead, substitute with bourbon, Madeira or white wine. *Try cider from the Island.

Merridale Estate Cidery www.merridalecider.com Sea Cider Farm & Ciderhouse www.seacider.ca

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

39

a celebration of the season.

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Cinnamon Baked Apples with Hazelnut-Fennel Brittle 40

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

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Celery Root & Cauliflower Puree This is tangier than regular mashed potatoes and has a pleasant rooty-funk to it too.

Serves 8 Cauliflower, 2 heads Garlic cloves, 2 Celery root, peeled, 1 bulb Homogenized milk, 1 cup Bay leaves, 2 Sea salt, 1/2 tsp Chopped fresh thyme, 2 tbsp

1 0 0 % O R G A N I C | FA I R T R A D E | L O C A L LY OW N E D & O P E R AT E D

We love sharing our passion for tea.

Explore tea history and tea culture by attending a traditional Tea Ceremony. Tantalize your taste buds with a visit to our Tea Tasting Bar. Take a Cooking

Cut cauliflower into florets and chop celery root. Place in a large saucepan and add milk, bay leaves and salt. Cover and bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer until tender, about 20 minutes. Don’t worry if milk splits.

Strain into a food processor and reserve milk. Whirl until pureed. This may take a few minutes as mixture is thick. Add enough reserved milk to smooth out. Stir in thyme. If making ahead, cover and refrigerate up to 1 day. Mixture will water out as it sits, but come together again once it’s reheated.

Cinnamon Baked Apples with Hazelnut-Fennel Brittle

with Tea class, learn about the LIEPXL FIRI½XW SJ XIE SV HMWGSZIV the world of rare tea varietals.

Experteas

Baked apples satisfy the craving for apple pie without the commitment. The spiced nut brittle adds a caramelized crunch reminiscent of candied apples.

Check out our events calendar at www.silkroadtea.com for tea tastings, workshops and activities.

Brittle Hazelnuts, whole, toasted and skinned, 1 cup Granulated sugar, 1 cup Water, 1/4 cup Babe’s honey, 2 tbsp Salt, 1/4 tsp Fennel seeds, 1 tbsp

There’s always something brewing at Silk Road!

www.silkroadtea.com 1624 Government St. Victoria Chinatown

Baked Apples Brown sugar, 3/4 cup Ground cinnamon, 2 tsp Apples, 8 medium, such as local Gravenstein, Spartan, Jonagold, Rome Beauty or Spy Butter, softened, 8 tsp For the brittle, coarsely chop hazelnuts. Measure out 1/3 cup and set aside. Fineley chop remaining nuts and set those aside for the apples.

The best way to approach brittle is not to rush and keep the heat moderate. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. In a thick-bottomed medium sauce pan, stir sugar with water, honey and salt over low heat until dissolved. Increase heat to medium and let boil and bubble until light amber. Occasionally (and carefully) swirl pan to prevent any dark spots. This will take about 4 to 5 minutes. Immediately pour onto parchment. Tilt baking sheet to spread out as thin as possible and sprinkle with chopped nuts and fennel. Let cool completely. Break into shards.

For the apples, in a bowl, mix brown sugar with cinnamon and finely chopped nuts.

Trim bottoms of apples so they sit flat. Core apples, using a melon-baller. Peel a 1/2-inch ring around the cored opening. Stuff apples with cinnamon sugar mixture. Press 1 tsp butter into top of each.

Place in a 9X13-inch baking dish. Pour in 1/4 cup water. Cover and bake in preheated 375F oven for 40 minutes. Uncover and continue to bake until very tender, 10 to 20 more minutes. Pierce with a sharp knife to check they are soft all the way through. Serve with vanilla ice cream and tuck in shards of brittle.

, starting as early as late August, are filled with an abundance of gorgeous apples. Seek out local orchards at B.C. Orchard Listings for fresh apple cider and tart baking apples. www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

41

ADVERTISING FEATURE

THE GOURMET ISLANDS

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Start at the southern tip of Vancouver Island and work your way north as you embark on a culinary journey that is a feast for both the stomach, and the senses.

Reservat

Boomer Jerritt

he South Island is known for the wide variety and quality of its restaurants. Walking down the streets of Victoria, smells enchant you and entice you to walk through the doors and pamper your appetite. Fine dining is the order of the day, and in locales such as Sooke, Metchosin, Saanich and Sidney, there is something for the epicurean in all of us. Pacific Northwest cuisine combines the finest ingredients on land with the freshest items of the sea, and brings culinary masterpieces to the table with flavour, colour and exciting textures.

The Gulf Islands are fast becoming a culinary and agri-tourism destination. In these small artisan communities, including Salt Spring, Galiano and Pender Island, see first hand how local cheeses and wines are made. The cottage industries specializing in organics, locally grown produce and the highest quality delicacies are a mainstay in the region. Come to the area and sample wood-fired breads, fresh cheeses and handmade charcuterie.

Welcome to the Islands

Boomer Jerritt The Cowichan region is the libation hot-spot of Vancouver Island. Some of the finest wines and ciders in British Columbia are produced in this region, and several companies offer tasting tours, allowing you to sample delicious beverages, often paired with regional cheeses and cuisine. The meaderies in the Cowichan area are also buzzing with activity, and offer visitors an opportunity to experience the centuries old brewing technique, all the while savouring the sumptuous amber liquid.

The Central Island, including Nanaimo, Ladysmith and Parksville, is known for its unusual agricultural offerings, such as emu, lamb and goat. Take part in weekend cooking classes and see how to prepare organic produce and game. Take a guided mushroom picking tour in the area, and create memorable dishes from items you’ve foraged from the damp Vancouver Island soil. Culinary and food-based festivals are also

42

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

Tigh-N offers a with rus The sea appetize West Co using lo Vancou

popular in the mid-Island region. Come get a taste of the best Nanaimo has to offer at Bite of Nanaimo, a sample of the area’s finest restaurants, held annually in September.

If you love the coast, and have a passion for fresh seafood, the North Central Island is calling.

Fresh seafood, particularly oysters, is a favourite among locals and visitors alike. In the areas from Fanny Bay to Oyster River, many restaurants offer their interpretations of how an oyster should be served. From cold, freshly shucked oysters eaten raw, to crisp deep fried oysters with a spritz of lemon and remoulade, you’ll find delectable dishes to tempt your palate.

The North Island region has a flavour all its own. Rich in First Nations history, the seafood caught here, and their unique preparations, are a must-see for any culinary adventurer. Take a trip to Fort Rupert, just outside Port Hardy, and experience the traditional native methods for curing and smoking salmon.

Step inside a traditional big house in Alert Bay and let the smoke aroma embrace you as salmon is cooked on cedar planks and smoked between cedar trellises over an open flame. Take home a taste of Vancouver Island with these First Nations specialties.

Perhaps your idea of perfection is having the various culinary delights prepared and served in luxurious settings. In the Pacific Rim communities of Tofino and Ucluelet, world-class resorts abound and 5-star dining experiences are at your fingertips. From the elegant dining rooms, watch the waters of the Pacific smash against the rocks below, as you dive into regional delights such as fresh, wild salmon, sea scallops and butterflied prawns.

The bounty of Vancouver Island is ripe for the picking; smell the aromas, taste the flavours, and hear the region calling out for you to experience the opulent delights of this gastronomic epicentre.

For more information on the Vancouver Island region or to order your free Vacation Guide, please call: 1-888-655-3483 or visit VancouverIsland.travel.

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www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

43

BUZZ café The BC Scene

A Round-Up of News from Around the Province

Comox-Valley and-environs

G. hynes

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The ‘Naimo’ Cowichan Valley, Nanaimo, Oceanside

P

asta Fresca [101-149 Fulford-Ganges Road, Salt Spring Island Tel: 250-5378588] is the holy grail of fresh pasta. In fact, this is carbohydrate contraband; so good it should be illegal. If you are a Dr. Aitkin follower, just don’t go there

because you’d be doomed. Most grocery store “fresh” pasta turns to mush 10 seconds after hitting boiling water. Not so the pasta of Max Del Vecchio and Carlie Goring. This is the kind of pasta you would buy if living in Italy. It gives all other pastas the boot…so to speak. Max was raised in Milan and Carlie, a west coast gal, has 8 years of living in Italy under her belt.

Both are consummate pasta perfectionists. They use only organic eggs, semolina flour and water. Their equipment comes from Italy, as does their estate-grown olive oil and top grade cheeses. Their repertoire includes a vast array of pasta shapes and sizes, as well as nubile stuffed pastas, sauces, pestos and “lie-and-say-you-made-it” scrumptious lasagna. What more is there to say but, “Mangi! Mangi!”

Pacific Prime Steak & Chop Restaurant (The Beach Club Resort, 181 Beachside Drive, Parksville Tel: 250-248-8999) sits on million dollar real estate, right on the beach in Parksville. The view is to die for, but wait until you taste the steaks. Carnivores, you need to know about this spot. First off, the lounge and dining room (inside and outside seating) are sophisticated and elegant thanks to the talents of Kimberly Williams Design, a company that does West Coast chic well. Then there is the well-crafted menu from Chef Richard Zinger. You will never need to ask, “Where’s the beef?” because the well-aged Alberta AAA is right here. Better yet, it is grilled on a Montague Grill that can crank it up to 1800 Fahrenheit (think Ruth’s Chris) for a flawless finish that creates a flavorful outer crust while retaining natural juices. Non-meat eaters are not overlooked. Red chili pepper flash-grilled giant tiger prawns will have you licking the plate and the local chipotle-crusted roast halibut, when in season, is done plump and moist. Back to the steaks. Zinger lives up to his last name with a 14-ingredient spice rub for the steaks that is a trade secret. This man is not afraid to kick it up a notch! As well, there are five side “au jus” accompaniments to go along with your steak such as a bleu cheese and veal demi or the “Hunter” with sautéed mushrooms (I was tempted to do shooters of this stuff and drink it right out of the serving vessel). Even desserts stay “on theme” with a fun and inventive grilled pineapple “chop” served with decadent rosemary-vanilla whipping cream. The wine list needs an educated retooling but there are a few worthy finds.

Peter Ertsos knows everyone in Nanaimo. Furthermore, he’s been feeding most of them for over fifteen years. Ertsos has never been one to dial it back on décor, so prepare yourself when entering Llios Mediterranean Restaurant [215 N. Terminal Ave, Nanaimo Tel: 250-754-1122] as it looks like it was done over by Pricilla Queen of the Desert during his/her turquoise period. On a rainy night the glass ceiling gives the place a magical ambiance and the six zillion plants provide a certain “Dr. Livingston I Presume” charm. The menu hails from a number of countries around the circumference of the Aegean and Mediterranean with a distinct nod to Greece. If tentacles are your thing, scuba dive into the warm calamari salad, but brings friends as the servings are huge! The Saganaki rocks; it is made with real Kefalogravriera, which is like a Greek Gruyere. There is something for everyone on the menu from the # 1 seller of roast lamb, to the award-winning veggie

Nanaimo Harbour

Vancouver Island Tourism

he new kid on the block in our region is Locals [364-8th Street, Courtenay 250.338.6493], where Chef Ronald St. Pierre and staff make it their mission to celebrate the gastronomic pleasures of putting the “100 Mile Diet” into practice. Executive Chef, Norman Müller, a European-trained chef with over 18 years of international “luxury market” experience, takes over the kitchen at Crown Isle’s Silverado Steakhouse [399 Clubhouse Drive, Courtenay 250-703-5050]. At a higher elevation, downtown Courtenay’s Beyond the Kitchen Door [274B 5th St, 250.338.4404] and Mt. Washington Alpine Resort may have already wrapped up their 1st Annual Alpine Food Festival ( Sept 5-7, co-sponsored by EAT Magazine). Passion for local produce is the theme, with a host of featured chefs (Karen Barnaby, Eric Akis, Jim Lalic, Wes Erikson and Christine Lilyholm). www.mountwashington.ca/foodfestival.

The autumnal buzz in Comox is that Avenue Bistro [2064 Comox Ave, 250-890-9200 www.avenuebistro.ca] is offering “wine flights” - a sample selection of three wines for the price of a glass. Features change regularly with both a white and red trio, celebrating local and international wines. Tasting notes are included with the flights. Avenue has also introduced a cheese plate to compliment the wine tasting experience. Back in Courtenay, the chefs at Atlas Café [250-6th Street, Courtenay 250.338.9838] are working the region’s bountiful fall harvest into the nightly fresh sheets. Meanwhile, the regular menu shifts towards more hearty comfort food. Suggestions: root vegetable mash, creamy pastas, and braised meats to warm your body and soul as the leaves turn and the weather cools.

A recent visit to Bisque [14th and Cliffe Ave., Courtenay 250.334.8564] confirmed the rumours I’d been hearing about the good things that Chef Steve Dodd and company are up to. Lunch is casual, dinner is more formal. Reservations are suggested.

The area has sprouted a couple of restaurants featuring Mexican food, but my favourite remains Tita’s [536-6th Street, Courtenay 250.334.8033] -- and not just because they make my margaritas exactly as I like (thanks). They always have the “freshest” fresh fruit drinks around. This summer I particularly enjoyed the sour cherry version, with cherries

picked from the garden surrounding the patio dining area. Pear and quince versions are on deck for the Fall season, as is creamy squash soup with chilies made with garden-picked squash. And where else can I get such a fresh, zesty ceviché? For a taste of middle eastern and Moroccan food, downtown’s tiny Zizi Café [441B Cliffe Avenue 250.334.1661] offers a lot to choose from. I like to drop by for a quick snack (the pizzas have a great rep, and I’m partial to the felafel) and a demi-tasse of thick coffee.

The Comox Valley boasts a long and beautiful Fall season. Visitors who want to stay more than a day or two, and who want to be within a few blocks of most of the area’s great places to eat should check out the growing vacation home rental roster at 250-3380438 or 250-338-3113 or www.blueberrycottage.ca.

Up the road in Cumberland, The Great Escape [2744 Dunsmuir Street, 250-336-8831] is happy to be bringing Daniel Arsenault onto the full-time staff lineup. Owners Nicola Cuhna and Jean-Francois Larche wish all the best to former staffer, Tracy Dixon, who is heading to Berkeley, California. Back on the menu for the fall will be Nicola's pavlova with cardamom whipped cream and mango curd. Patrons should look for the next street food event on Sept. 13. Reservations are necessary at The Great Escape.

South of town in Coombs, a little cottage close to the market action is the location of Kiki Spice [266 Alberni Hwy, Coombs (250) 927-5454 / www.kikispice.com]. A friend and I recently enjoyed a marvelous dining experience at the hands of chef Lela Perkins. Things are changing at Kiki’s, so best to view up & coming menus online. —Hans Peter Meyer

mousakka. And oh baklava. They have that can get you int two.

Gilles Le Patezo Street, Nanaimo Te from Normandy (via and daughter Laure you fear writing ab

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EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

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mousakka. And oh honey, you so need to try the in-house hand-made baklava. They have a respectable wine list and a marvelous martini line-up that can get you into a lot of trouble if you forget to count past the number two.

Gilles Le Patezour, je vois aime! Le Café Français [153 Commercial Street, Nanaimo Tel: 250-716-7866] is owned by a gregarious Frenchman from Normandy (via a few years in Gatineau Quebec) along with wife Celine and daughter Laureen. A smallish spot, this 44-seat find is one of those places you fear writing about because one might never secure a table ever again.

There is nothing “nouvelle” about any of the food and that brings great comfort. It is simple traditional French bistro cuisine. Richly flavoured soupe a l’oignon au gratin, escargot doing the breast stroke in garlic and butter, crepes, both savory and sweet, sole meuniere, a respectable filet mignon Bordelais and a divine crème brulee that is best applied directly to the hips because who are we kidding, that is exactly where it is headed. With the new Vancouver Island Convention Centre now open across the street, get in soon before you find yourself in a que outside with your nose pressed against the glass like Julie Andrew’s in Victor Victoria. – Su Grimmer

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Vancouver

G. hynes

Voya in the Loden, while Mike Mitchell (ex-CinCin, Beach House) has signed on to become the operations manager at FigMint. In event news, the always enjoyable Feast of Fields comes to UBC on September 7th, and the Gold Medal Plates competition, which will see BC's top chefs cook off for a chance to represent the province against Canada's best at the 2009 Canadian Culinary Championships, takes place on November 5th at Coal Harbour's Westin Bayshore. —Andrew Morrison

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he diner season returns for 2008. Sadly the summer is over, however as I always say, September is one of my favourite months in Tofino. This summer saw a few changes around town, and I highly recommend checking out some of these changes.

Trilogy Café at the Tofino Botanicals is under new direction since this past July. A trio of talented professionals have created a recipe for success, in my opinion, with an almost Café Pamplona (2000 – 2004 at the TBG) feeling to it. Chef Geoff Laithwaite, (April Point Lodge, Dennis Washington Group) designs his menus daily, using fresh and local ingredients combined with a style that reflects honesty and simplicity. Hosts, ISG Sommelier Kirk Hampton (Lumiere, Aerie Resort, Quails Gate) and Daniel Rabu (Gourmet by the Sea, Panache) welcome guests with warmth, humour, and are sincere, friendly and professional.

This fall they plan to host an Oyster Chowder Festival and Special Event Winemaker’s Dinner as well as a Fungi Dinner.

Open 7 days a week, breakfast, lunch, dinner and catering. 1084 Pacific Rim Highway (Tofino Botanical Gardens) 250 725 2247 trilogycafe.ca Speaking of oysters, the 12th Annual Clayoquot Oyster Festival will take place November 21 – 23 and tickets for select events go on sale October 1st, available at Wildside Booksellers. While I do not know the entire list of events surrounding the weekend yet, updates will be posted on the website, which is also getting a facelift. 250.725.4222 oystergala.com Cedar Corner welcomes new businesses, Cedar Corner Art Gallery and Hungry Bear Naturals (formerly 4th Street Natural Market). Doug Wright aims to bring health and sustainability together as he owns the Tofino Fitness, in the basement of Cedar Corner, and currently carries a variety of organic health foods at Hungry Bear Naturals, including locally grown Medicine Farm Greens, Clayoquot Botanicals, organic and wild crafted herbal teas, tinctures and salves, Sea Wench, organic skin care, beauty products and bio degradable cleaning products, bread from 600 Degrees and organic vegan muffins and cookies from Sweet T’s Cake and Pastry. Gord Johns had a successful Gallery launch in early July, featuring local artists of all media, right above Eco Everything, Johns’ eco friendly clothing shop.

4th and Campbell Street 250 725 8008 (Hungry Bear) Breakers Whole Food Eatery recently launched opportunity for the purchase of a franchise; with principle guidelines to

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nother exciting couple of months have brought us a brace on new food experiences worth checking out, among them two highly anticipated, high end Italian-themed restaurants: La Quercia on the west side and Cibo Trattoria in downtown's Moda Hotel (look for reviews in our next issue). La Quercia, located in the old Masa a la Carte spot, is cheffed/owned by Adam Pegg and Lucais Syme, two former cooks from Andrey Durbach's mini-empire (Parkside, Labuca, Pied-a-Terre). Cibo is a sleek looker right beside Uva Wine Bar. Its kitchen is in the hands of Neil Taylor, an experienced Brit import, while the front is run by Sahara Tamarin (once upon a time a member of the team that opened Aurora Bistro). Other new restaurants include DiVino, a new wine and charcuterie bar on Commercial Drive next to Dolce Amore; a new comfort food joint from chef Wayne Martin called Crave Beachside in West Vancouver's old and storied Beachside spot (reviewed in our next issue); a new catering/restaurant operation called Two Chefs and a Table in Gastown; and by the time this goes to print, the long looked-forward-to Voya in the Loden Hotel will finally open, just a year behind schedule. Closures include the short-lived Flite in Yaletown and Bliss Asian Bistro at the foot of Denman (slated to become a second incarnation of Crime Lab, which used to be a few blocks away on West Pender until it went under a few years back). As for restaurants that are opening soon, there are several currently in the works. Le Faux Bourgeois should be up and running on East 15th once this issue hits the streets. It'll be courtesy of Stephan Gagnon (ex-Jules Bistro) and Andreas Seppelt (of Go Fish!) with the bistro, moonlighting pan-stylings of chef Tina Fineza (don't worry, she won't be permanently leaving her kitchen at Kitsilano's Flying Tiger). In Gastown, Sean Heather's new Irish Heather is still under construction. In Kits, the 1800 block of West 4th will soon see the second location of Pinky's Steakhouse, the second location of PHAT (both with original locations in Yaletown), and a modern Greek restaurant specialising in small plates and Greek wines called Piato (Greek for "plate"). On the east side, the cheesy folks behind Les Amis du Fromage have a new wine and cheese bar in the works called Au Petit Chavignol (due 2009), while restaurateurs Tom Doughty and Robert Belcham of Fuel Restaurant are planning a new Italian resto on Main called Campagnolo. Yaletown awaits the new Earls mega-monstrosity (this Fall) and a new location of the Hurricane Grill (in the recently shut Bardot space). Nearby, the Opus Hotel has submitted plans for city approval of a new rooftop restaurant, while a few doors down on Mainland St. a mysterious project called R.TL (short for Regional Tasting Lounge) is currently under the hammer and saw. It has attracted the front of house talents of Alain Canuel, formerly the GM of FigMint. In other personnel news, Jay Jones has left his job as head drink bwana for Donnelly Hospitality Management (owner of many Vancouver pubs) to become bar manager at

act in a socially and as making sure the Trish Dixon has own 10 years. For mor Dixon. 430 Campbe Black Rock O open this fall, with Chef Andrew Spring erations, Carly Hall part of the Boutiqu which also include Resort as well as and Victoria’s Oswe include a 90 seat f seat Wave Bar with net stations, fitness and The Wine Cav events. Blackrockre The Ancient Ceda voted #1 Hotel Spa Hotel Spa Overall (w the publication's an voted #5 Hotel in t Canada. Congratula 800 333 4604 wick

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under new direction ionals have created n almost CafĂŠ Pamt. Chef Geoff Laithton Group) designs ents combined with osts, ISG Sommelier Quails Gate) and he) welcome guests ly and professional. wder Festival and as a Fungi Dinner. and catering. 1084 ens) 250 725 2247

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act in a socially and environmentally responsible manner, as well as making sure the quality of their foods also reflect these values.

Trish Dixon has owned and operated this successful business for 10 years. For more information on this, please contact Trish Dixon. 430 Campbell Street 250 725 2558 breakersdeli.com Black Rock Oceanfront Resort in Ucluelet is expected to open this fall, with a management team that includes 2 locals; Chef Andrew Springett (Wickaninnish Inn) and Director of Operations, Carly Hall (Long Beach Lodge Resort). The resort is part of the Boutique Hotels & Resorts of British Columbia, which also includes the Okanagan Valleyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cove Lakeside Resort as well as The Outback, Whistlerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Nita Lake Lodge and Victoriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Oswego Hotel. Amenities of the Black Rock Resort include a 90 seat fine dining restaurant with 30 seat patio, 50 seat Wave Bar with fireplace, and ocean view, library and internet stations, fitness centre, spa, 3 hot pools overlooking the ocean and The Wine Cave â&#x20AC;&#x201D;an ideal settings for groups & intimate events. Blackrockresort.com The Ancient Cedars Spa at the Wickaninnish Inn was recently voted #1 Hotel Spa in the Continental U.S. and Canada, and Best Hotel Spa Overall (worldwide), by readers of Travel + Leisure, in the publication's annual World's Best survey. The Inn was also voted #5 Hotel in the Continental U.S. and Canada, and #1 in Canada. Congratulations to the team at the Wickaninnish Inn! 800 333 4604 wickinn.com â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Kira Rogers

here may be that telltale hint of autumn coolness in the evening air, but as the Okanaganâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature long summer drag promises, the life al fresco rages on. Make sure to take advantage of these brilliant patio evenings here before the season ends. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Mustsâ&#x20AC;? are the glorious, though sadly seasonal, winery restaurant decks that provide world-class views to pair with the stellar cuisine being created by our growing repertoire of world class Chefs. The Fall Wine Festival is the perfect time to tour these hot spots allowing one to swirl and sip outdoors with the rest of the vines.

Patios to hit: Michael Allemeier leads the pack at the glorious Terrace Restaurant at Mission Hill Winery (ahemâ&#x20AC;Śvoted one of the Top 5 Winery Restaurants in the WORLD!) Chef Judith Knight, the brilliant new addition to CedarCreekâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Terrace Restaurant is one not to be missed (fun trivia: Judith was once personal Chef to Kevin Costner!) Not a winery, but Waterfront Wines can be included in this wine category and Chef Mark Filatowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s food and awesome wine list keeps his deck consistently packed at downtownâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s awardwinning Waterfront Wines (even without a view). Hillside Estate Winery in Naramata boasts a super cool setting on their vineyard venue and Chef Peter Young continues to wow with his delicious nosh â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Crispy Oysters with Naramata Granny Smith apples, sundried tomatoes & roast chili cream is something to fantasize about. Then there is Burrowing Owl in Oliver - oh my! Chef Bernard Casavant paired with that view is unforgettable.

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A visit to The Terrace at Nkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Mip Cellars in Osoyoo is an experience that will enchant you. From the food, to the art, to the view to the overall aboriginal history lesson and spiritual vibe you will want to book a room and sleep over. And finally, Sumac Ridgeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s culinary world has been rocked with the addition of fabulous Executive Chef Roger Planiden to their Cellar Door Bistro.

Enjoy his beautiful locally inspired dishes and innovative pairings â&#x20AC;&#x201C; how about some Stellarâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Jay bubbly with some truffled popcorn to start? Luckily this one is open most of the year â&#x20AC;&#x201C; they only close for January and February.

Everyone knows about our wines, but have you experienced that which comes from our other fruits? Raven Ridge Cidery in Kelownaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s orchard district has perfected a libation that people are ravenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; about. New on their list this Fall to accompany their lineup of iced apple ciders, comes the elegant Anjou Pear Iced Cider. It truly emanates the taste of an Okanagan summer. www.ravenridgecidery.com Embrace your inner Piggy on your next visit to Pentictonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lakeshore! Piggyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s BarBQ is a cool, rustic eatery located across the street from Lake Okanagan that turns out finger licking BarBQ - slow cooked Southern style. From slabs of fall-off-the-bone ribs to bbqâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d chicken halves to sandwiches loaded with pulled pork or beef brisket, plan to order a beer and park yourself for a spell.

Hire them to cater your next party â&#x20AC;&#x201C; who can resist a mess of ribs with a side of collard greens? 914 Lakeshore Drive.

Neil Schroeter, former Chef de Cuisine at the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Cellar Door Bistroâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; at Sumac Ridge Estate Winery in Summerland has started up a new business called Okanagan Street Food. Chef Schroeter offers a wide variety of gourmet services including catering platters, executive box lunches as well as a fab Market menu available at farmerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s markets across the Okanagan (check website for dates). Neilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fresh pastas (made with only free-run eggs and semolina), pasta sauces, and soups are now available at Kelownaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Okanagan Grocery Artisan Breads (Guisachan Village) www.okanaganstreetfood.com Okanagan foodie visitors may want book their next visit at â&#x20AC;&#x153;A View of the Lakeâ&#x20AC;? bed and breakfast in Kelowna. Chef Steve Marston and his wife Chrissy will serve you a gourmet threecourse breakfast each day. Chef Marston is also available for private dinner parties, demonstrations and cooking classes in his in house demonstration kitchen. www.aviewofthelake.com The Okanagan Chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Association is thrilled to announce that they will be hosting the CCFâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s (Canadian Culinary Federation) National Convention this year. The OCA is a non-profit society whose primary purpose is to network and promote culinary professionalism. They are very involved in providing support and mentorship to Junior members, as well as participating in local charity and fundraising efforts. Chairman of the Board, Chef Rod Butters (Fresco Restaurant) is Chairing the "Convention Committee" and planning a bevy of activities for our guests. This food writer is looking forward to the wave of culinary genius heading our way â&#x20AC;&#x201C; perhaps some will choose to stay?

Congratulations to the Culinary Arts Department at The Okanagan College who have successfully accomplished organizing the immigration of 60 Jamaican Chefs to Kelowna. With the lack of kitchen staff in our bustling Valley, and Jamaica suffering huge unemployment issues, the Okanagan College and the Economic Development Commission were thrilled at this initiative coming to fruition. All Jamaican cooks are registered to complete the culinary program at the College and then will be placed into the welcoming hands of various restaurants about town with immigration status already in place! Welcome Jamaica! â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Jennifer Schell

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The Garden City Victoria

G. hynes

ictorian eaters and food-makers are distinguishing themselves as a politically forward group. In government the NDP is taking action against Premier Campbell’s policies on agriculture. Farmers are deeply concerned that Campbell’s fuel tax undermines the movement of supporting local food production by making it more expensive for small farms to transport their produce while leaving external sources of food untaxed. Also, a new Meat Inspection Regulation illegalizes sales at the farm gate squeezing small meat producers out of business. In 2001, the Campbell government ended support for the Buy BC program. At its peak, Buy BC was one of the most successful government and agri-food industry collaboratives identifying homegrown foods with a well-recognized logo. Now a farmers market regulation has been imposed stating that fruit or egg based products can no longer sell without written permission. Read more on the NDP’s position against Campbell’s agricultural policies at www.bcndpcaucus.ca/en/.

In a watershed move, Victoria citizens are taking agricultural matters into their own hands by starting a Save the Madrona Farm campaign. Located on Blenkinsop road, the farm is a model of successful local and sustainable food production, but is under heavy development pressure. The newly formed Friends of Madrona Farm Society have entered a deal with the Land Conservancy to raise a portion of the funds required to purchase Madrona Farm and secure its land under the TLC trust. Visit www.madronafarm.com to learn more about the farm.

Brilliant idea! Victoria’s PLAY (Partnership for Learning and Advocacy for Young Children) has identified a list of eateries in Victoria that welcome the little guys. Locales will display a designed PLAY symbol. There are lots of good ones on there (Spinnakers, Discovery Coffee, Red Fish Blue Fish…). Go to www.playvictoria.org and look for the Early Years Community Appreciation Awards for a complete list.

Back to School. It’s a sign of the times when public institutions can get behind a movement. The University of Victoria’s continu-

V

ing education sector has added a Sustainable Gastronomy department with courses on “Bread & Wheat,” “Chocolate: Food of the Gods,” (you get to eat chocolate in class!), “Food Culture: Fast Food to Slow Food,” and “Malt Whisky: A Flavour Journey.” (www.continuingstudies.uvic.ca/gastronomy/courses.aspx.)

Silk Road Tea on Government is hosting a series of classes including a “Chinese Tea Ceremony Tasting,” “Introduction to Tea and Food Pairing,” and “Collector’s Edition Darjeeling Teas.”

Some events, like the Pink Tea Party in October are free, others are a pittance. 250-704-2688 to register or drop by the shop.

The Wine and Spirits Education Trust courses Levels I and II will be offered in Victoria this October (see www.winecollege.ca) and The Restaurant Coach is helping the servers of Victoria learn proper dining room etiquette. Classes start September 27, visit www.westshorecentre.com to register. Plenty Epicurean Pantry plans to launch its book club in the back-to-school season, discussing works of the gastronomic persuasion over tea and morsels. Drop in for details or call the shop at 250-380-7654.

The perpetual dance of the chef shuffle continues with former Island Chef Collaborative Chair Genevieve Laplante signing on as Poets Cove Resort and Spa’s new Executive Chef. Watch for her roots as a Salt Spring Island farm kid to influence the menu. Marcus Sawatzky, a self-proclaimed ‘wine geek’ has left his position as Bearfoot Bistro’s sommelier to join Niche as Wine Guy. The restaurant aims to increase their vintage collection under Sawatzky’s razor-sharp tutelage and throw more local beer and wine events. Paprika Bistro owners are making a preemptive sell to have more time for family and travel. Rumour has it Charelli’s has found a larger location to spread its wings a bit. And at The Marina, Kazu joins the sushi team and Brad Lewis moves into a Sous Chef position. With new art on the walls from a local artist and a revamped wine list, change is in the air.

Drumroll please…the results of the 2008 Phantom Dinner, put on by the Victoria Office of the BC Restaurant and Foodservices Association, are in. Customer Service Award, based on the actual dining experience, went to O Bistro. A three-member judging panel of the City’s top Chefs awarded the Culinary Arts award to Blue Crab Bar & Grill. The People’s Choice Award, based on the display menus located at the Bay Centre for the two weeks prior to the event went to Nautical Nellie’s Steak and Seafood House.

BC Ferries is taking the sting out of rising fares and early morning commutes by giving their Pacific Buffet a complete overhaul. Fresh blueberries, a platter with goat and cow cheeses, edamame salad, lox and Indian Candy salmon are replacing the old menu standbys. New glass and plate ware present the changes elegantly. Thank manager of food and beverage Hans Zimmerman next time you find yourself on the ferry with a steaming cup of Salt Spring Coffee, a freshly-made omelette with goat cheese, and ruby red bowl of plump strawberries.

—Katie Zdybel

COMING UP IN OUR NOVEMBER/DECEMBER ISSUE Mile Zero: The 160.934-Kilometre Christmas Challenge Victoria Culinary DNA - Part 2 BC Cooking Schools - Where to Learn?

WINE: Do Points Really Matter?

Vancouver’s Quest for Italian. Seriously.

The Comox Valley: The Rise of a Foodshed Food Shopping for the Hard-to-Gift Person 48

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

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able Gastronomy ,” “Chocolate: Food ss!), “Food Culture: A Flavour Journey.” /courses.aspx.) a series of classes in“Introduction to Tea n Darjeeling Teas.” ber are free, others drop by the shop. urses Levels I and II ww.winecollege.ca) servers of Victoria start September 27, Plenty Epicurean back-to-school seauasion over tea and at 250-380-7654. ntinues with former ve Laplante signing ecutive Chef. Watch kid to influence the wine geek’ has left er to join Niche as heir vintage collecnd throw more local are making a pretravel. Rumour has spread its wings a shi team and Brad new art on the walls change is in the air.

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www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

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wines for great everyday drinking

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liquid assets

THE WINES Censo Scurati Nero Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Avola 2006 Italy $24.00-27.00 There is nothing shy about this thick concentrated red from the dusty plains of Sicily. Rich and spicy, with complex aromas of cherry, black licorice and burnt rubber that continue to open up with a little time in the glass. Full-bodied with intense fruit flavours, plenty of grip and a long smooth finish.

Circus Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Argentina, $14.00-17.00 This inexpensive little brut from the foothills of the Andes must be one of the best buys in the Dominion. Always a dependable choice for a well-made wine at an affordable price!

Medium bodied and silky smooth with cherry, spice and cassis aromas that fill the glass and carry on through the palate culminating in a soft mellow finish.

Benvenuto Barbera 2006, Italy, $6.95-$10.95 There is nothing fancy about this wine, but at this price it is worth every penny. Fresh and easy drinking with simple fruit flavours, nice balance and a clean soft finish with just enough acidity to keep it interesting. A great everyday wine for the table.

Ricossa Barbera Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Asti 2005, Italy, $16.00-18.00 In British Columbia when you come across a Barbera for under twenty bucks, the most prudent course of action to take is to quicken your pace and not look back. Cheap Barbera will take the enamel off your teeth and forever tarnish your reputation along with anything else it comes into contact with. There are exceptionsâ&#x20AC;Ś This is one of them! Cherry scented with soft fruit flavours, fresh acidity and a firm, dry finish. Very good with tomato based sauces (pizza, pasta, etc).

Pillar Box Red 2006, Australia, $20.00-23.00 Not quite the budget quaffer it is in Australia but great value nonetheless. Pillar Box is a blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot aged in French and American oak. It is fullbodied and jam-packed with layers of juicy red berry flavours and a smooth easy drinking finish.

Montebuena Rioja 2004, Spain, $16.00-19.00 This must be considered one of the best values to be found in your nearest reputable wine store. If it is not stocked, move to greener pastures down the road! It is not a blockbuster but considering the price has surprising depth with ripe cherry, mineral and spice flavours and a fine patina of tannin.

Vina Alarba Old Vine Garnacha 2004, Spain, $14.00-16.00 Whenever you come across a 90-point Parker wine for about fifteen bucks, you should calmly but quickly force yourself up off the couch, turn off the TV and run down to your favourite liquor store to pick up a case or two. You will not regret it. Made from 50-100 year old vines from hillside vineyards, this delicious red is full-bodied with lovely raspberry, spice and mineral notes on the palate. Very complex and seriously tasty.

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Eagerly Awaited 2005 Bordeaux Hits BC Shores

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n the wine industry there is a saying that June determines the quantity of a vintage, August the character and September the quality. Warm sunny weather in June will ensure a successful pollination of the vineyard, with each pollinated flower hopefully becoming a ripe grape about 100 days later. Good weather is crucial to ensure this happens evenly throughout the vineyard. August determines the sugar levels, acidity, tannins and the many other components that will ultimately determine what the finished product tastes like. Warm, dry weather through September ripens the grapes ensuring that they are physiologically mature before harvest and the autumn rains set in.

In a nutshell, 2005 in Bordeaux was almost perfect! For the most part, days were sunny and warm with very little rain spread out through the growing season. It was a drought year but it did not have the torrid heat of 2003 and though the days were warm, the nights were very cool. This diurnal fluctuation in the temperature allows the vines to produce the necessary sugar but at the same time maintain sufficient acidity to balance the sweetness.

Through September and into October the weather held and the crop harvested in perfect health with good sugar, acid, and tannins.

From the beginning the trade and press realized that 2005 could turn out to be one of the greatest vintages of the modern era. Comparisons were made with 1961, 1982, 1989, 1990 and 2000. By all accounts this is not hype! Consensus regarding the vintage is all but unanimous. If there is a problem, it is regarding the alcohol levels of some of the finished wines, in particular the merlot based wines of the right bank (St Emilion, Pomerol, etc). In some cases, natural alcohol ranged between 13.5% and 15% whereas 12% to 12.5% is generally the norm. This could prove a problem for some, but by and large a majority produced balanced wines with rich fruit flavours, fresh acidity and ripe tannins.

With greatness comes desire and with new markets in the Orient and Russia competing with the west, for a finite amount of collectable Bordeaux, prices have predictably hit an all time high. It is the most expensive vintage ever! But fear not my fellow bottom feeders, there is still hope! There is much fine wine from petite chateaux to be had. These wines lack the cache of the big labels but in good vintages often provide good drinking at very affordable prices. —By Larry Arnold

More Wines Ch La Couranconne Gratitude Cotes Du Rhone Villages 06, France, $24.00-27.00 Rich and powerful with great balance, enticing black raspberry, pepper and earth nuances, good weigh and a plush velvety texture that really opens up in the glass. If that doesn’t get you going have somebody check your pulse.

Mission Hill SLC Merlot 04, British Columbia, $40.00-45.00 The next time you are in Kelowna check out this winery. It is absolutely incredible and definitely worth the time and effort to drive up the hill for a look and a taste. Over the years Mission Hill wines have set the standard and with massive new investments in the south Okanagan, look to continue doing so. This rich red is big and chewy with concentrated berry, chocolate and vanilla flavours and a soft silky texture.

Sandhill Syrah Small Lots Phantom Creek Vineyard 06, BC, $35.00-40.00 A seriously delicious wine that is drinking well now but will only get better with a few more years. Full-bodied and powerful but at the same time balanced and focused with sweet berry, cherry and spice flavours, velvety tannins and a long, supple finish. Highly recommended if you can find it!

Venturi Schulze Pinot Noir 2005, BC, expensive but good Pinot noir shows great potential on Vancouver Island and there is definately plenty going on in this barrel-aged beauty from Cobble Hill. Full-bodied with black cherry, violets, exotic spices, damp earth and a slight gaminess on the nose, the palate is more of the same and then some with fantastic texture, silky smooth tannins and a long ethereal finish! These three make good wine and I believe this is the best they made to date! Worth the effort to seek out.

Domaine La Casenove La Garrique 2004, France, $20.00-23.00 This hearty red is inky black with black cherries, blackberries and fecund black earth aromas that aggressively assault the olfactory system and stun the palate. Not a whole lot of finesse just a whole lot of fruit. Highly recommended but not for the timid or meek.

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www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

51

A Sense of Place

ROAD TRIP

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wineterroir

OKANAGAN Michaela Morris and Michelle Bouffard head to the Okanagan for a summer road trip that offer hot weather, warm hospitality and some cool new wine offerings.

Ta

WHITE Listen Live to the housewine gals talking wine on CFUN 1410 radio at www.cfun.com

S

ummer on the coast is never long or hot enough. To catch the last warming rays of the year, head to the Okanagan. Our craving for intense heat triggered a recent road trip (quite frankly, we couldn’t afford the Mediterranean).

Happily our “cheap date” seduced us with its hidden charms. If you need an excuse to go, time your trip with the Okanagan Wine Festival (October 2-12).

Start in Osoyoos and work your way north. The HopePrinceton highway takes longer, but it’s relaxing and beautiful. The five-hour journey left us ravenous, and lunch at Nk’Mip Cellars was the perfect remedy. As the name suggests, Nk’Mip is owned and run by the Osoyoos Indian Band.

Sitting on the patio, we took in the view: arid desert, cacti and rattlesnakes had replaced the soggy green coast we left behind. As we nibbled on native Indian-themed platters and sipped the 2005 Qwam Qwmt Merlot, vacation mode settled in quickly.

While the valley is well stocked with camping and motel options, an increasing number of wineries provide accommodations. A short drive north from Nk’Mip takes you to Burrowing Owl. The Guest House offers 10 comfortable rooms, a luxury penthouse, swimming pool and tasting room where you can purchase Burrowing Owl wines. In the adjoining Sonora Room restaurant, chef Bernard Casavant works with fresh local ingredients and the presentation is stunning. We are still salivating over a delicious salad of warm goat cheese, golden beets, baby carrots, spiced candied hazelnuts and cherry tomatoes. The Burrowing Owl Pinot Gris was a delectable match. Watching the moon rising over the vineyard completed the romantic setting. Luckily we had each other.

From Burrowing Owl, you are well positioned to explore the cluster of wineries around Oliver including Golden Mile Cellars, Inniskillin and Hester Creek. Many wineries have tasting rooms where you can try before buying. This is the rule of thumb throughout the Okanagan. Most have complimentary tastings while others request a small donation or fee that may be waived if you purchase a bottle. When cramming in numerous visits, spitting is helpful. Having a designated driver is an even better solution. We also recommend travelling with a cooler so that the wine doesn’t cook in your trunk.

Owned by giant Vincor, Inniskillin benefits from economies of scale. It enables them to produce wines at reasonable prices, a challenge for smaller wineries in a region where cost of production is high. Besides offering good value, Inniskillin is among the wineries in the valley experimenting with different grape varieties. Made from small lots, their Discovery Series gives wine drinkers the opportunity to taste varietals atypical of the Okanagan. The Chenin Blanc already has a following and production has grown. The new vintage of Zin-

52

fandel absolutely charmed us.

At Hester Creek, Robert Summers is literally cleaning up the estate’s act. He accepted the role of winemaker in 2006 convinced of the property’s potential and lured by the promise of a new winery. Huge investment is a trend throughout the Okanagan. When we met Summers this summer, he was itching to show us the blueprints. It should be ready for crush 2009. Change is already palpable in the 2006 and 2007 vintages and gives hope for the future. Hester Creek recently opened a guesthouse and also has plans for a restaurant. If you desire an intimate getaway, the Villa is ideal. We slept peacefully and woke up to a breakfast of homemade frittata and decadent banana bread.

Leaving Oliver, you can stop off at Jackson-Triggs, another Vincor-owned winery. The tasting room is staffed with friendly, helpful people. B.C. “icon” wine Osoyoos Larose is also made here. Since the inaugural 2001 vintage, it has improved steadily. Osoyoos Larose looks to Bordeaux for inspiration focusing on one wine made from a blend of five grapes. Merlot dominates with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot in supporting roles. Pascal Madevon, a charismatic Frenchman, belongs to a growing number of expat winemakers lending their expertise to the Okanagan. He treated us to a component tasting of the 2007 vintage. Holy Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc! Pascal believes the latter is well suited to the valley: “I have never had as many good Cabernet Francs from France as I have from B.C.” Osoyoos Larose followers take note: the 2006 vintage will be released in November.

Osoyoos Larose demonstrates that the Okanagan can succeed with fuller bodied reds. For now, it remains an anomaly as lighter reds and whites tend to be more successful. The greatest difficulty is fully ripening the grapes in the Okanagan’s short hot season. A lot more care is required in the vineyard according to Wade Stark, Prospect Winery’s winemaker: “We have to work harder than other places in the world because the repercussions are greater.”

Before arriving in Penticton, a drive through the wineries around Okanagan Falls is worth the detour. This is one of the prettiest parts of the valley. Plenty of smaller wineries pour a range of wines. Check out Stag’s Hollow and Wild Goose.

The Naramata Bench also gets our vote for scenery. Many local producers believe it has a unique terroir capable of producing world-class wines. They have banded together to promote the area. The rest of the Okanagan should learn from their collective efforts. Visit the tasting rooms at Nichol Vineyard, Laughing Stock, La Frenz and Lake Breeze—a must for lunch. If you need a place to stay, Lake Breeze, Therapy Vineyards and Elephant Island all have guesthouses. The Naramata Inn is another option and the in-house spa will rejuvenate wine-weary travellers.

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

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Staying in one of the suites at Hester Creek Winery will put you right in the centre of the South Okanagan action Concluding the journey in Kelowna satisfies city cravings and provides a great base for wine touring. On the West Bank, Quail’s Gate is a popular destination and serves a lovely Sunday brunch. Just up the road, you’ll find Mission Hill, the winery that put the Okanagan on the map. Its restaurant patio boasts the most amazing view of the valley. On our last visit, we were surprised by the evolution of the reds.

They have become more restrained and elegant in style. The 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and 2004 S.L.C. Syrah were standouts.

South of Kelowna merits exploration as well. Besides a tasting room and delightful restaurant, CedarCreek winery stages sunset concerts throughout the summer. One of the Okanagan’s true gems is Tantalus, a small winery crafting the valley’s finest Riesling. Their success seems to have inspired other wineries to plant Riesling nearby.

Our Okanagan fling over, we head home via the fast-moving Coquihalla. Dodging suitcases flying off roof racks, we contemplate the future of the Okanagan. The region still has far to go, but we are encouraged by the improvement. Syrah and Riesling especially peak our curiosity. We shall return.

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Ta s t i n g

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WHITE 2007 Lake Breeze Pinot Blanc, $16.90 If you are looking for a slightly more substantial white wine without oak, this is a good choice. Lake Breeze Pinot Blanc is a great performer year after year and it complements richer dishes well. Try with chicken in a creamy mushroom sauce.

2007 See Ya Later Ranch Riesling, $16.99 Simple and well made with good concentration of flavours. A fuller style of Riesling oozing with peachy fruit. Reminiscent of the Okanagan on a hot summer day.

2007 Inniskillin Dark Horse Vineyard Pinot Blanc, $17.99 Is it the 18-year-old vines that make this wine a standout? Concentrated aromas of pear, white flowers and kiwi. Slightly oily with a long lingering finish.

2006 Jackson-Triggs Proprietors Grand Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, $19.99 Made from a cooler site in the South Okanagan. Steely and restrained with a creamy mouthfeel, orange peel and grassy notes. Bracing acidity keeps this wine refreshing.

Treat yourself to a glass with Carmelis’ fresh goat cheese.

2007 Twisted Tree Chardonnay, $21.90 A lightly oaked Chardonnay with aromas of baked apple, honey and quince. Rich tropical flavours yet balanced by good acidity. A consumer-friendly choice.

2007 Laughing Stock Pinot Pinot, $21.90 A blend of 73 percent Pinot Gris and 27 percent Pinot Blanc. This Alsace look alike offers honeysuckle, melon and ripe pear aromas. Fuller bodied with good structure.

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RED 2006 Prospect Winery Shiraz, $16.99 Distinct Syrah aromas, slightly meaty with black and red currant. Bright, lifted and balanced. Unlike its Aussie name, it’s French in style. Our first sip excited us about Syrah in the Okanagan.

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2006 Sandhill Syrah, $19.99 (White Label) Served blind, we thought this wine was a cool climate Aussie Shiraz. Displays a classic gamey Shiraz character. Totally delicious, especially with a piece of juicy red meat.

2005 Nk'Mip Qwam Qwmt Merlot, $24.99 Full bodied with ripe plum, vanilla, tobacco and cocoa flavours. It will keep your guests happy on a Friday night. No food required.

2006 Mission Hill Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, $24.99 Pure Cabernet character. Fresh red fruit keeps the wine elegant and refreshing. Honestly made. A style the Okanagan should strive for. Bravo!

!

Trip tip

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www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2008

53

Chef’s Talk:

"Apples in the fall are very Canadian.

What is your best taste memory of eating or picking apples?"

Lisa Metz Tita’s Mexican Restaurant 250.334.8033 Back when we lived on Maurelle Island, we harvested nine big bushel baskets from our five apple trees one fall. There was one tree with apples so fragrant they tasted like peaches and apricots. I think it was a Cox's Orange/ Pippin cross. It was the same year my new pantry was built so there was actually somewhere to put all those apples. Their fragrance filled the whole house and blended with the smells of fresh baking and wood smoke to create a scent that made you want winter to come!

John Waller The Pointe Restaurant 250.725.3100 I remember having a wonderful apple galette made by my love’s mum Diane. It’s as simple as that with fresh whipped cream.

The conversation and drinks helped a bit too ‘hic’.

Christabel Padmore The Little Piggy 250.386.1020 Enslaved in my mother's sweatshop... I mean kitchen, I watched pots bubbling, as she instructed me in the use of peculiar looking equipment that normally would have only been seen in the depths of the basement (and assumed to be pioneer-time torture devices). The process would go one for what seemed like forever, the windows steaming as we took what seemed like perfectly good apples and converted them into brown ooze that would then be packaged for long term storage. I thought this an entirely bizarre thing to do, until a few weeks later home sick from school, she cracked a jar, sprinkled sugar and cinnamon on top - then it all came together.

Smooth, cellar-chilled apple sauce.

Garrett Schack Vista 18 250.382.9258 So there I was enjoying a beautiful fall afternoon stroll through a field when I came across a patch of shade that could not be resisted. I made myself comfortable on the down-like carpet of grass, leaned back, titled my hat and dozed off to an orchestra of song birds. Visions of Bach and Chopin were running through my head when suddenly I felt a sharp blow to my crown.

Terrified and groggy I looked straight up only to be struck again.

I took off running with the speed of an Olympiad shouting "the sky is falling, the sky is falling". Panic-struck the nearby townsfolk darted for shelter searching for a safe haven from the onslaught that was sure to come. It was at that moment that a true Spartan fell from the sky and woke me up, at which point I took a crisp and juicy bite of the best apple I have ever tasted to this very day. True story? I'll never tell.

Chris Ruge SeaGrille, Brentwood Bay Lodge and Spa 250.544.2079 Honestly, you just don’t see enough local apples around. They ALL seem to come from New Zealand these days. Royal Galas are my favourite and I just cannot find any local ones. It’s depressing and because of the lack of local apples, I’m just not eating as much of them anymore.

Ben Peterson Heron Rock Bistro 250.383.1545 Sitting by the lake, a long summer's day, Knowing nana's apple pie was soon on the way!

Peter Heptonstall Restaurant Matisse 250.480.0883 Since I was raised in Liverpool, my most memorable apple moment was the Beatles’ White Album......

by Ceara Lornie

Ali Ryan Spinnakers 250.386.2739 When I was a child growing up in Ottawa my father had a couple of marvelous apple trees in the backyard of my family’s home. I am quite certain that as saplings they were Macs, however with years of splicing various different types of apples to their branches, the apples produced were well, mutts. Not the most attractive apple in the world, but absolutely delicious – and extremely hardy. By mid -October our little gardening shed would be full of bushel baskets of these apples. I don’t know if all Ottawa valley apples are extremely hardy, but by early January the apples would get this outrageous thick waxy shell on their skin. When scrubbed off, the sweet & sour taste of these freezing apples was even more intense and delicious then when they were first picked. A taste memory that will last forever for me.

Rob Wheaton Shelter Restaurant 250.725.2522 When I was a kid probably nine or ten, we had a crab apple tree in our backyard in Ontario. So every year we would pick the crab apples and make crab apple jelly with my mom and brothers. Unfortunately I have developed an allergy to apples, so I can't enjoy them anymore but I still remember what they taste like and love smelling them when we’re making our apple pie.

OUT-OF-PROVINCE GUEST CHEF Claudio Aprile Colborne Lane, Toronto, Come to think of it, when I was a kid I went on a school trip to an apple orchard. I ate enough apples to feed a small family and consequently overdosed and spent much of the day at the back of the bus puking my brains out. This was an early lesson in moderation.

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