EAT Magazine Sept | Oct 2009 by EAT Magazine

R E S TA U R A N T S | R E C I P E S | W I N E S | C U L I N A RY T R AV E L

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September | Octoberl 2009 | Issue 13-05 | THIS COPY IS FREE

ESTEVAN VILLAGE COOL CLIMATE WINES A SHORT, VOLATILE GROWING SEASON

STEAMED CLAMS with CHORIZO SAUSAGE ON ROASTED SQUASH

AN AL FRESCO

3-COURSE FALL FEAST A CLUTCH OF

NEW RESTAURANTS

Food Hero MICHAEL ABELMAN

Local | Sustainable | Fresh | Seasonal

“At home I serve the kind of food I know the story behind” — Michael Pollan, author

Celebrating Food & Drink in Victoria and on Vancouver Island

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DIAMONDS ARE HARDER THAN TITANIUM DIAMONDS ARE BETTER HEAT CONDUCTORS DIAMONDS ARE MORE DURABLE

The ultimate in non-stick diamonds and nano technology make the difference. Bridal Registry Available Broadmead Village, Victoria 130-777 Royal Oak Drive 250-727-2110

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Box 5225, V www.eatma

Since 1998 | reproduced wit Pacific Island G opinions expre Island Gourmet

eat magazine Sept | October 2009 Concierge Desk . . . . . . 4 EAT@ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Epicure at Large . . . . . . 9 In the ‘Hood . . . . . . . . .10 Good for You . . . . . . . . 12 Local Hero . . . . . . . . . . 13 Get Away . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Food Matters . . . . . . . 15 Victoria Reporter . . . . 16 Local Kitchen . . . . . . . 26 What’s in Season? . . . 29 Nathan’s Recipes . . . .30 The BC Food Scene . . 32 Liquid Assets . . . . . . . 41 Island Wine . . . . . . . . .42 Wine & Terroir . . . . . . .44 Chefs Talk . . . . . . . . . .46

IN THIS ISSUE

Cover recipe pg.25 Photo by Michael Tourigny

Editor in Chief Gary Hynes Contributing Editor Carolyn Bateman, Vancouver Contributing Editor Julie Pegg Editorial Assistant/web editor Katie Zdybel

Community Reporters Victoria: Katie Zdybel, Nanaimo: Su Grimmer, Comox Valley: Hans Peter Meyer Tofino | Uclulet: Kira Rogers, Vancouver: Julie Pegg, Okanagan: Jennifer Schell Contributors Larry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Jennifer Danter, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, Laurie Guy, Mara Jernigan, Tracey Kusiewicz, Ceara Lornie, Sherri Martin, Kathryn McAree, Michaela Morris, Colin Newell, Julie Pegg, Genevieve Laplante, Karen Platt, Treve Ring, Kira Rogers, Elizabeth Smyth, Adem Tepedelen,Michael Tourigny, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman, Katie Zdybel

Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark. Advertising: Lorraine Browne (Vancouver Island), Paul Kamon (Vancouver), Kira Rogers (Tofino), Gary Hynes (agencies, regional and national). 250.384.9042, advertise@eatmagazine.ca All departments Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4, tel. 250-384-9042, fax. 250-384-6915 www.eatmagazine.ca eatjobs.ca epicureandtravel.com Since 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. All opinions expressed in the articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. Pacific Island Gourmet reserves the right to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved.

Seaside, Sunshine & Sunsets Fresh and local pub fare, regional wines & craft beers from Phillips Brewing.Take in Victoria’s most spectacular sunsets on the heated oceanfront patios. See you on the bay! We’re not a million miles away…it just feels like it!

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www.eatmagazine.ca SEPT | OCTOBER 2009

Culinary intelligence for the 2 months ahead

THE CONCIERGE DESK

by Katie Zdybel

For more events visit THE BULLETIN BOARD at www.eatmagazine.ca

September HOW TO TASTE WINE LIKE a PRO Examine the “see, smell, and sip” components in accessing the quality of wine. September 3rd at the Dunbar Centre from 7 to 9pm. $45 fee includes acid and tannin samples, a wine aroma sensory kits, and four wine samples. Register online at www.dunbarcentre.ca

Fund. Call 250.592.8466 for more information (time and date details will be confirmed closer to the date). FEAST of FIELDS An all-encompassing celebration of our province’s bounty, Feast of Fields is a FarmFolk/CityFolk fundraiser that honours so many of BC’s vintners, chefs, brewers, farmers, and food artisans that it’s held in three different places on three different dates. The Okanagan’s celebration just passed in August, while the Vancouver festivities will be held September 13th at the UBC Farm and Vancouver Island will host their feast at Providence Farm in Duncan on September 20th. Tickets are available at a online at www.ffcfprojects.ca and they go fast, so don’t wait. Also visit this site for a list of locations that sell tickets. WINE FUNDAMENTALS COURSE Held in Parksville for the first time. Starts on September 14th and will run for eight weeks at Tigh-na-mara Resort from 3:00-6:00pm on Mondays. The cost is $600 inclusive and registration is on-line at www.internationalsommelier.com

Eat responsibly. Always serve dessert. Treat yourself at feysandhobbs.com

WINESTOCK MUSIC FESTIVAL at MORNING BAY WINERY A day of great music and wine at one of BC’s prettiest vineyards. September 5th marks the Winestock Music Festival’s fourth year at Morning Bay Vineyard on Pender Island. This year’s acts include The Odds, The Furies, Coco Love Alcorn, and many more. For the full lineup visit www.morningbay.ca. Tickets available online. HEALTHY MEALS from the GARDEN Terralicious cooking and gardening school will be holding a series of classes to teach you how to prepare healthy, beautiful, and simple meals from the garden. Each class works from the garden to the table, ending in delicious meal prepared by an organic food chef in their cozy demonstrations kitchen. Classes are held Monday, Wednesday, and Friday of each week beginning September 7th. Visit www.terralicious.ca for the full calendar. OKANAGAN WINE BUS TOUR The BC Wine Appreciation Society is filling up the bus for its fourth annual bus tour of the South Okanagan. Stops at great restaurants such as Nk’Mip Winery, lunch at Burrowing Owl Winery, and many more tasting opportunities in the Oliver/Osoyoos round out a fantastic trip. Call 250.498.2225 to make your reservations. Trip scheduled for September 12th and 13th. Only 24 seats available.

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EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2009

WILLOW CENTRE GRAND OPENING Eat burgers for a cause! BC Wineguys, Slater’s, and Bistro 28 are holding a fundraising barbecue at Willows Centre on September 24th, 4 to 9 PM. Proceeds go to Willow’s School Heritage

BACK TO SCHOOL NUTRITION Want to get your kids out of the sugar rut and feed them foods that stimulate cognitive function and are a breeze to pack in the lunchbox? On September 16th, nutrition educator and author, Karla Heintz, will be speaking at the Munch Family Restaurant in North Vancouver on back to school nutrition. For more information visit www.karlaheintz.com

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SLOW FOOD CHEESE 2009 The biennial event Cheese – Milk in All its Shapes and Forms, organized by Slow Food and the City of Bra, is back for its seventh edition, to be held September 18th to 21st, in Bra, Italy. The festival has become an international reference point for dairy artisans and cheese enthusiasts from around the world, with its exploration of the thousand aspects of cheese, from dairy animals to the finished product. Every cheese has a long story behind it, its own identity and specific nature. By telling these stories, Cheese keeps these traditions alive. Visit cheese.slowfood.it for details. MADRONA FARM FUNDRAISER Ristorante La Piola will be holding a silent art auction September 25th to the 29th featuring Artist Erica Messing and her acrylic works on canvas. Auction proceeds will be donated to Madrona Farm. A reception will be held September 29th to announce successful bidders and will feature appetizers by Chef Cory Pelan prepared with produce from Madrona Farm and a selection of BC wines. Ristorante La Piola 3189 Quadra St. 388-4517. www.ericamessing.com www.madronafarm.com OKTOBERFEST IN OAK BAY VILLAGE Ottavio is pulling out the accordion, the sausages, the sauerkraut, and the Schnitzel for their annual Oktoberfest celebration. There

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Editor’s Note:

or me, fall has always been a time of renewal. Connecting with friends I didn’t see over the summer, attending wonderful festivals, visiting farms and wineries or simply eating well—at home or in a restaurant and enjoying the harvest. We’re a lucky lot here on the coast. I want to bring your attention to Jennifer Schell-Pigott’s Lunch in the Vineyard article (pg.20). Her story is about the emerging food scene in the Okanagan Valley. Mostly known for great wine, the Valley is coming of culinary age, not only for good restaurants but great food products, farms, bakeries and other specialty food stores. Head to the valley this autumn if you can and spend a few vacation dollars near home this year. Think of it as a stimulus package for your palate. —Bon appétit, Gary Hynes, Editor will also be mustard tasting, wine and beer tasting by BC Wineguys, hot Bavarian pretzels, homemade Spatzle, and of course, Ottavio’s German Boys and Girls. Don’t miss this delicious and fun event. 11 to 3 in the piazza in front of Ottavio’s, September 26th. BURGUNDY WINE TASTING The Victoria Wine Society continues its 2009/2010 tasting series on Monday, September 28, at 7:00 pm, with a specially selected assortment of Pinot Noirs from around the world. The Pinot Noir-focused event will be held in a boardroom tasting format at the Ambrosia Event Centre, 638 Fisgard Street. It will be led by a panel of guest speakers selected specifically for their Pinot Noir expertise. Because availability is limited, tickets must be purchased in advance. Tickets ($40 for members; $50 for non-members) and annual memberships ($25 per person; $35 per couple) are available at BC Wineguys (2579 Cadboro Bay Road, 250-592-8466) and Cook St. Village Liquor Store (109 – 230 Cook Street, 250-9952665).

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A TASTE OF SPAIN A Taste of Spain, Flamenco "Feria" evening is coming to Victoria's Marriott Inner Harbour Hotel on Saturday October 17. This popular fundraiser is highlighted by a dazzling flamenco show with Alma de Espana, silent auction, prize for best gypsy costume, and a tasty "Tapas" reception. Tickets $50, $45 for members. At Munro's, Ivy's, Chronicles of Crime, Larsen Music. For info call 250 384 8832 www.almadeespana.com CULINARY TOURS IN ITALY with MARA JERNIGAN Mara Jernigan, celebrated BC chef and graduate of Slow Food’s Master of Italian Cooking Programs, leads this off-the-beaten-track culinary tour of Northern Italy through Piedmont, Emilia Romagna, the Marche and Florence. Pack your bags in preparation for excellent eating from rustic tables to 3 star Michelin stops with your superb guide. October 24th to 30th. For a sample itinerary, visit www.fairburnfarm.bc.ca

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A showcase of fine food, wine and art, Autumn Bounty at Sun Peaks Resort celebrates the best in the Thompson-Okanagan Valley. Taste seasonal delicacies at Dominion Creek Ranch, learn the best ways to cook seafood, and sip wine from area vineyards. “It’s really a celebration of fare, allowing guests to sample some incredible cuisine prepared from the fantastic product available right here in our region, paired with just released wines,” explains David Tombs, Executive Chef at the Delta Sun Peaks Resort hotel. October 9th to 11th.

November October EAT MY WORDS On October 3rd, Portland’s foremost association of culinary professionals, The Portland Culinary Alliance (PCA), will bring together a group of esteemed Pacific Northwest authors and chefs for the literary symposium and luncheon, Eat My Words: Literary Food Writing That’s Good Enough to Eat. The event will showcase talented voices in the genres of food fiction and food memoir at the luxurious Gracie's Restaurant at the Hotel deLuxe. www.pdxca.org AUTUMN BOUNTY at SUN PEAKS RESORT

ART OF THE COCKTAIL A two day celebration of the art, craft and tradition of the cocktail is coming to Victoria, November 7 & 8. Cocktail lovers and mixologists can wander the Tasting Room sampling the cocktails that appeal while catching tips from guest mixologists, authors and reps in ongoing demonstrations on the side stage that include a competition for the Best Mixologist in the Pacific Northwest. September 1 tickets available online or at 1215 Blanshard St. (Film Festival office). Tickets are $35 and only available in advance. Tokens for samples are $1 and are only available at the event which is being held at Victoria Arts Connection 2750 Quadra St. www.artofthecocktail.ca twitter.com/artofcocktail

Ready to learn to

Cook like a Chef Thrifty Foods Cooking and Lifestyle Centre has demonstration and hands on classes taught by renowned local and international chefs. Learn to prepare delicious new dishes and dine on outstanding cuisine. Visit thriftyfoods.com for class details and to register. Register today and be on your way to cooking like a chef.

Thrifty Foods Tuscany Village is located at the intersection of Shelbourne and McKenzie, 1626 McKenzie Ave. www.eatmagazine.ca SEPT | OCTOBER 2009

EAT@ — by Katie Zdybel 2nd Place - Best of Vancouver Island, 20th Annual Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards

Only 35 minutes from downtown Victoria

While touring to promote his latest book, In Defense of Food, writer Michael Pollan stopped in Vancouver for an interview with EAT. Though on a tight schedule full of speaking events and television appearances, Pollan was articulate, thoughtful, and enthusiastic to muse on his visions for creating a new food culture, and the best way to reconnect people to their food. First, Pollan dug into the issues: In Defense of Food deals largely with the unhealthy style of eating in North America and how it has led to ecological disaster and an unhealthy population. “We don’t have a national food culture that can withstand the onslaught of food marketing and scientific advice,” Pollan explained. “That’s part of our problem.” We talked about how Canada and the U.S. are similar in geographical size and in their cultural make-up —both are young countries settled by immigrants from a spectrum of Author Michael Pollan countries that bring their own traditions around food. Often these traditions are spoke with EAT at UBC campus lost or become watered down when removed from their home country. “If you don’t have one strong food culture that everybody subscribes to, you’re much more vulnerable when someone comes along and tells you how to eat. It’s very hard to resist that. We’re not steadied by some set of organized rules. It also means that whoever screams the loudest has the most influence and that tends to be the food industry because they’ve got tremendous amounts of marketing money behind them.” In Canada, the pitfalls of having our food culture largely influenced by food companies with the biggest budget are evident in the proliferation of McDonalds, Tim Hortons, and Dairy Queens that now speckle our landscape. As well, the increase of obesity and overweight conditions of Canadians is a direct link to the common diet of fast or industrial food. A World Health Organization study in 2008 shows 61.1% of Canadians are overweight or obese, ranking us 35th in the world for most obese population. Pollan, ever the optimist, was quick to point out the silver lining for countries who lack a clear food culture to steer its population into better eating. “In some ways, it’s very liberating because it allows us to invent a new cuisine which I think we’re in the process of doing.” And how does a country go about consciously creating a healthier, more enriched culture around food? “There are no fixed, immutable rules; cultures can be creative. There is a kind of educational process to it. In England, the food turned around because of Mad Cow disease. There was a real moment where England was really shocked by what they had learned about how their food was being prepared and suddenly there was an interest in artisanal farming and local meat production and the food got a lot better.” England, however, is a relatively small country —how does a country like Canada, with the Atlantic on one side, the Pacific on the other, vast stretches of prairie in the middle and a crust of snow to the North consolidate its culinary customs into a single culture that uniformly guides us into healthier eating practices? Is such a thing feasible, or EAT posited, is it possible that a modern food culture in such a landscape is really made up of a patchwork of smaller regional cultures? “That’s a good question because to a certain extent if you’re going to have a food culture that’s going to have a local component than it’s going to be different in different places. And I do believe there’s real strength in the local food movement.” After thinking to himself a moment, Pollan conceded, “I don’t have the answer. I don’t know how it’s going to play out. But I don’t think the answer is to go to one single food culture. Rather it might be to have certain consistent principles throughout. In the same way, for example, that Julia Child would teach the French techniques, but then would take those basic principles and apply Cont’d at the top of the next page

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2009

Alia Malley

1753 Shawnigan Mill Bay Rd 250.743.3667 amusebistro.com

TALKING FOOD CULTURE with AUTHOR MICHAEL POLLAN

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them to Chinese or Indian cooking. She believed those principles could be applied in different ways. So there might be various principles that would become important in America —such as the use of fresh, local ingredients.” In a broad sense, we can look to such ideas for creating a national culture around food, but what about on the personal level? How does one encourage the people around them to establish their own culture, or relationship, with the food they eat? Pollan is a backyard gardener and has been for years. He’s quick to use analogies from the garden when he speaks and shows a true zest for puttering in the soil. However, he makes it clear that he is not a romanticist when it comes to small farming or gardening. “I’m not saying that everyone needs to garden, but I am saying that it feeds the process of reconnecting with food. I think it’s especially helpful for children [to spend time in the garden]. They rediscover that nature feeds us, not industry. And food is very attractive to them in the garden; they’re more adventurous. My son won’t eat salad, but he’ll nibble lettuce and arugula when we’re in the garden.” “I don’t set out to convert anyone,” Pollan continued. “People come around in their own good time and they get there through different paths. Something important I learned from Alice Waters is that you lead people with pleasure. The way she changes peoples’ minds about food is through cooking for them. I try to do it through story-telling.” This is a rather humble way of stating what he does, coming from an author who has won the James Beard Award for best food writing, was a finalist for the National Book Critics Circle Award, and whose previous work, The Omnivore’s Dilemma, was named one of the ten best books of the year by both the New York Times and the Washington Post. This light touch is characteristic of Pollan, both in person and in print. Though he writes about serious subject matter, he maintains a sense of humour and has comfortable, easy-going manner. “You know, you can argue ‘til you’re blue in the face,” said Pollan at the end of our interview, “but unless it seems like the more pleasurable route you’re not going to convince anyone to change the way they eat.” Is he hopeful about the reformation of a North American food culture? Pollan responded optimistically: “It’s definitely happening. It helps that local, sustainably grown food tastes better. And it also happens to be the most environmentally responsible food. That’s a very lucky thing indeed.” To read the long version of this interview visit www.eatmagazine.ca

letters to the editor Gary, I'm just so happy to know you and to be able to say that I met you in the 80s. There aren't many who are still kicking like us from that disjointed era of Canadian food. WELL DONE! — Anita Stewart, author, Anita Stewart's CANADA - The Food, The Recipes, The Stories In Julie Pegg’s article “Summer Fete” she refers to the Victoria Festival of Wine as fizzling out a few years back and that is hardly the case. In its final year, 2007 we drew record crowds of 2500+ people over the two days it was held, which perhaps would be better stated as going out with a bang. After producing the biggest wine event in Victoria for 9 years I simply didn’t want to do it any more, predominately because of the time commitment and financial liability it took over and above our retail stores plus having a new family. Many have asked “but who is going to do the festival” with my stock response being; somebody will, it’s too tempting. I wish Kathy all the best but please don’t let your writer discount all the hard work and success we had for the sake of promoting a new event that is yet to be executed. We did it right and all the people that volunteered or participated over the years deserve that recognition. —Glenn Barlow, President, Cook St Village Liquor & BC Wineguys Cadboro Bay Rd A note on my recent Dim Sum article. Evening dim sum has been discontinued at Jade Fountain. Now it's served from 11 to 2:30 p.m. only. My apologies. —Jeremy Ferguson Hello. Love your magazine, however, your last issue has quite the missing words on page 26 victoria eat buzz cafe regarding Devour. You are missing the fact that Jena Steward is also chef/owner along with what seems to be at least one sentence in regards to the blurb about Devour. —A patron of Devour. • Our apologies to Jena and Devour for the omission. —editor. I just wanted to take a minute and thank you so much for your incredible web article. Your kind words went along way for all of the Staff and I think they finally get the whole hard work pays off concept. We all truly thank-you for your efforts and we will remember this always. As crazy as it seems we actually had a couple in last night for dinner who had the article sent to them in Ancastor from a friend in Vancouver(small world!). It just happened that they were headed up to a cottage in Point Clark and had to make a reservation based on your efforts. I'll be sure to watch for all of your articles in Eat so keep up the exceptional work. We very much enjoy trying new places and if we are back on the West coast or heck anywhere really I'll be looking for your advice on where to eat. —Derek Griffiths, Harbour Street Brasserie, Kincardine, Ontario.

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPT | OCTOBER 2009

The 8th Annual Dungeness Crab & Seafood Festival in Port Angeles by Lorraine Forster “I can’t see anything.” “Look! They’re blowing bubbles in this corner.” “Just drag it on the bottom until you feel a bump and maybe you can snag one.” “I find a gentle bonk on the head is the trick. They get worked up and start pinching at anything that moves.”

his was my initiation into the highly skilled fishing game of “Grab the Crab.” Across the Strait of Juan de Fuca, where we Victorians usually see an accumulation of pale grey clouds bunched up against the Olympic Mountains, the town of Port Angeles hosts what can only be described as one heck of a party. The snappy Dungeness crab is the guest of honour (if one considers being eaten an honour). My husband, Tom, and I hitched a ride aboard the Coho Ferry on a dull October long weekend to take in the sights, scents and flavours of the Eighth Annual Dungeness Crab and Seafood Festival. A fabulous culinary event with a focus on local bounty from field and sea—and so close to home. How could a seafood lover like me possibly have missed out for the previous seven years? Lucky Victorians don’t even need to take a car; the hub of activity takes place on City Pier, next to the Black Ball ferry terminal. The mammoth 7,000-square-foot white pavilion rising out of the parking lot housing the majority of food vendors. Mr. Crab might be receiving top billing but oysters, mussels, clams, chowders, wild salmon, organic salads, blackberry pie, sweet corn, wine and many other locally produced treats abound. We made our way out of the main tent, past a maze of local artisans and produce vendors, to the far end of the pier to try and snag our lunch. No licence, no equipment and no talent required. A crush of people surrounded huge holding tanks full of crabs. All the crabs for the event are caught in nearby Dungeness Bay by S’Klallam tribal crabbers. Ooos, aahs and cheers rose from the crowd as unwary crustaceans went for the bait and were pulled from the tanks. My turn came. It was a tense 10 minutes, but in my allotted time I was able to convince three crusty fellows to join me for lunch. Several enormous propane-heated boiling pots were at the ready to cook the catch. “Now what?” I whined longingly as the steamy boiled crabs were presented to me. “Well, let’s eat! There is nothing quite as good as sitting on a pier breaking into a crab you caught yourself,” enthused Tom as he produced the ideal crab-cracking multi-tool from his pocket. With crab juice running down our chins and onto our jeans, we savoured every morsel, then wandered over to the Chef Demonstration Stage housed in another huge tent. I adore fresh crab cakes! But my mom, being a transplanted prairie girl, always made them with canned crab. So I asked a stupid question. What was the difference between fresh, frozen, canned or . . . imitation crab? Oops! I shouldn’t have mentioned that last one. Facial expressions alone told me what I already knew. Imitation crab was just that, imitation, and should not even be considered. If you were hiking in the back country and simply couldn’t survive without crab cakes, OK, use canned. But as is the case with any cuisine, local and fresh is best. The Crab and Seafood Festival doesn’t stay within the confines of City Pier. Local pride and enthusiasm for the dapper Dungeness spill over into the community—more than a dozen restaurants offer special festival menus. In fact, dining on the Olympic Peninsula is a treat at any time of year with the evolution of unique Olympic Coast cuisine—a mélange of quality agricultural and seafood products intertwined with international flavours. Waiting for the ferry the following afternoon I noticed several rather portly seagulls chatting it up on the deck. They seemed to have enjoyed the Crab and Seafood Festival as much as we had and were telling their friends. I am sure they will return the next year, and so will we. If you go: Dungeness Crab and Seafood Festival, October 10-11, 2009, City Pier, Port Angeles www.crabfestival.org 360-452-6300

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2009

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— by Jeremy Ferguson

NORTHERN LIGHTS Our investigative reporter heads north on a food hunt. Here’s what he uncovered. Visitors to Port McNeill, waaaay up north on the Island, are surprised to find winning fare in a town of fewer than 3,000. Eschewing the desperation oases of fatigued Greek and 1950s Cantonese, foodies make their way to Northern Lights, affixed to, but independent of the Haida-Way Motel. Chef Philip Kelly caters to every market, as he must, feeding the barflies next door, turning out pizzas and hot dogs for the family crowd and juggling take-out and catering, but he struts his stuff with impeccably fresh fish from the glassy, pristine waters of Blackfish Sound. A lunchtime fish-and-chipper special ($9.95) brings two lightly battered pillows of subliminal ling cod, but the accompanying frozen potato “dollars”—loonie-sized fries—aren’t worth a first glance. Seafood plate ($14.95) borders on deep-fried heaven, with the aforementioned ling, Fanny Bay oysters in panko and local spot prawns in coconut batter all up to snuff. At dinner, the lights go down, conversation goes up and a less pandering menu hops to life. Right off the bat, Armenian flatbreads with lemony, garlicky hummus raise hopes. Clam chowder ($5.95), made-from-scratch, arrives rich and creamy and loaded with clams. Penne ($19.95) sauced in smoked salmon cream, comes piled high with halibut, shrimps, mussels, bay scallops, chives and divinely, sea asparagus. Also no slouch is Chinook salmon ($26.95) a massive, perfectly char-grilled fillet, impossible to finish unless your name is Arnold or Goliath, and wallowing with spot prawns in garlic and butter. But whoa, somebody in the kitchen hasn’t figured out searingly hot plates annihilate ever-sodelicate fish flesh, leaving the customer to conduct a frantic rescue operation. Chef may have to administer a spanking and send sous to bed without dinner. From a small wine list in need of Okanagan chard, pinot gris and pinot blanc, Mission Hill pinot grigio and Yellowtail chard (each $28) just get by. Northern Lights, 1817 Campbell Way, Port McNeill, 250-956-2184, email chefphil@telus.net.

Movember

Become a Mo Bro for Charity Its about to get a whole lot bushier around the city as men begin to sport brand new mustaches this November to help raise funds for Prostate Cancer Canada. (www.prostatecancer.ca) . Last year 1,200 ‘stash’ growers raised $130,000. Movember (the month formerly known as November) is a charity event held during November each year. At the start of Movember guys register with a clean shaven face. The Movember participants, known as Mo Bros, have the remainder of the month to grow and groom their moustache, raising money and awareness along the way. While growing a Mo is left to the guys, Mo Sistas (women that support their guys or just love Mos!) form an important part of Movember with their powerful feminine touch, by recruiting Mo Bros, helping to raise funds and attending the highly anticipated Gala Partés. Movember culminates at the end of the month at the Gala Partés. For more information visit www.Movember.com Read about the worldwide movement, register as a particiapnt or make a donation for your favourite mo man.

Calendar of Movember Events Registration Party: October 8th Launch Party: October 27th at Heckler’s Bar and Grill Galla Party - Cirque de Mo: Thursday Movember 26th, Element Night Club

The PEOPLE, STORIES & WINES TH AT M A K E the BA ROSSA FA MOUS

Best Australian Producer 2003, 2006 and 2008 International Wine and Spirit Competition www.peterlehmannwines.com

martins4443_EAT

Crab geles

EPICURE AT LARGE

IN THE ‘HOOD

— by Treve Ring

Estevan Village and Cadboro Bay Road are family-friendly zones. Restaurants, cafés, wine shops, cupcakes, butchers & more It takes a child to raise a village, at least it does in these two blocks nestled within Oak Bay. A few minutes’ walk to elementary schools, playgrounds and beaches, the peaceful calmness of this upper-middle-class, family-friendly neighbourhood has created pocket areas where strollers and dogs are as common as cars. Local businesses have responded— in spades. Tyke-sized cupcakes and gourmet doggie biscuits are lovingly prepared here. Plus, there’s a green grocer, skilled butcher, artisan breads, all-day breakfasts to feed the growing family, a cozy bistro and a wine shop for mom and dad. In short, it’s a picture-perfect place to read the Sunday paper on a patio, locally roasted coffee and lavender muffin in hand, watching Junior and Fido play on the grass.

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Cadboro Bay Road: Culinary Map (2500 block)

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Haro’s Afternoon Tea Glenn Barlow & Ame DePaoli at BC Wine Guys

Take a break and enjoy an old world tradition in a casual seaside setting. The perfect pot of tea, decadent goodies, and an ocean view to watch the world go by. What could be better? Where: Haro's Restaurant + Bar When: Daily from 2-4pm Cost: $12.95 per person (not including tax or gratuity)

For reservations: 250.655.9700 • www.sidneypier.com 10

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2009

Willows Centre is the official name of the teeny strip of shops in the 2500 block of Cadboro Bay Road, but I’ve never heard anyone refer to it as such. Instead, it’s the place where Slater’s First Class Meats is. In business since 1983, this is where many chefs (pro and home versions) source their specialty meats. Custom-cut beef, poultry, lamb and pork, and don’t forget to order ahead for your Thanksgiving Turducken. 250-592-0823. 2577, Cadboro Bay Rd. But what wine to serve with your Turducken? Ame DePaoli and her knowledgeable team at next door’s BC Wine Guys will be able to help you out. Older sister store to Cook Street Village Liquor, this VQA shop immigrated over from Oak Bay Village last year and stocks a wide variety of hard-to-find bottles. Be sure to subscribe to owner and well-known wine consultant Glenn Barlow’s e-newsletter for all your booze news, and inquire about his Victoria Wine Society. 250-592-8466. 2579 Cadboro Bay Rd. (www.bcwineguys.com). Bistro 28 is the new kid on the block; it opened this summer in the old Wren space. Chef Sam Chalmers, formerly of The Superior, Pescatores and Stage, totally reconfigured the space, installing a long banquette bar and small patio. The menu is big on little plates. Pop in for dinner Wednesday through Sunday, lunch Wednesday through Friday and brunch on Sunday. 250-598-2828. 2583 Cadboro Bay Rd., 250-598-2828 (www.bistro28.ca). Next door’s Food Forum carries all your typical groceries and sundries, plus an impressive selection of locally produced goodies. Think Level Ground Coffee, Udder Guy Ice Cream, Meadowvale Farms … They are also a consistent sponsor of local sports teams and com-

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munity events—just what every ’hood is in need of. 250-598-2566. 2585 Cadboro Bay Rd. Directly across the street from Willows Centre is the lynchpin of this area’s revitalization. Since Pure Vanilla’s opening in December 2002, it has morphed from a tiny one-chef bakery to the bustling, trendy, licensed, patioed café it is today. Known for their “baby cakes”— smaller, single-sized (ha!) servings of their popular cakes—they’re also popular for their beautiful charlottes, tartes, tortes, wedding cakes, cookies and pies. And don’t arrive too late for the Good Morning Muffin; the following is fervent. On the savoury side, they also make their own naturally leavened artisan breads, quiche, salads, galettes—and more. Their distinctive pink-ribboned box will give you away at any party as a shopper in the know. 250-592-2896. 2590 Cadboro Bay Rd.

Geoff Parker in front of his Paprika Bistro Estevan Village: Culinary Map (2500 block Estevan Avenue) One five-minute stroll east towards Willow’s Beach lands you in Estevan Village, a block that has seen much change over the years. The newest arrival is Crumsby’s Cupcake Café, opened by Maria and Keith Elwood in late spring and an apparent hit with kids of all ages. True to its name, they heavily feature the divine diminutive sweets—theirs are bite-sized and range from kiddie delight flavours to mocha for moms. They also make delish mini muffins. Don’t miss the lemon-lavender to complement their locally roasted coffee and Silk Road Teas, plus grilled panini and gelato. The interior is bright, colourful and fun, complete with a children’s play area, and there is a small corner patio. 250-595-2221. 2509 Estevan Ave. A few storefronts down on the next corner is the Village’s old faithful. Willows Galley has anchored this block for years and is home to many people’s favourite fish and chips in Victoria. Thick-cut halibut, wicked tartar sauce and delish homemade fries are paper-coneready for you to wander down two blocks to the beach with. Picnic benches are outside if you can’t wait that long—and many can’t. Ice cream and milkshakes help fend off summer’s heat. 250-598-2711. 2559 Estevan Ave. Across the street is another eatery that draws foodies in from afar. Though Paprika Bistro has recently been sold by founders (and current Stage owners) George and Linda Szasz, new owner Geoff Parker is carrying on their well-followed traditions. Only a couple of minor menu changes have occurred to the French- and Italian-inspired menu, and the Bistro’s dedication and commitment to local producers and suppliers hasn’t wavered. A threecourse early-seating Tuesday-Saturday dinner is only $26—an amazing value for this level of food and service. 250-592-7424. 524 Estevan Ave. (www.paprika-bistro.com). While Paprika Bistro is open for dinner only, a few doors up, The Village’s cheery and friendly staff will happily feed you for breakfast and brunch. The owners are known for their all-day breakfasts and traditional Jewish recipes, so you can be assured that the Blades brothers will take good care of you. The challah french toast is a big hit, as are the crispy golden latkes. Open until 4 p.m. daily. 250-592-8311. 2518 Estevan Ave. And if it’s movie and pizza night—or picnic at the beach day—pop into Pizazz Pizza next door, open Monday through Saturday 11 a.m.-8 p.m. 250-370-0868. 2510 Estevan Ave.

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPT | OCTOBER 2009

GOOD FOR YOU — by Pam Durkin

LOCA

PASSING THE BAR EXAM

MIC

Salt Spr B.C.’s homegrown energy bars are among the best in this popular food group.

Chef’ ef’ Choice

Three couse meal for only $20

CLUBHOUSE

Sustainable Seafood Local Produce Organic Bison Local Micro Breweries B.C. VQA Wines

The Sticky Wicket & The he Clubhouse at The Strathcona cona Hotel 919 Douglas Street eet V Victoria BC 250.383.7137 7137

www.strathconahotel.com www ww.strathconahotel.com

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2009

Once the exclusive domain of athletes, energy bars have now become a mainstream food choice. Grandmothers and toddlers alike can be seen munching on the portable snacks. And according to Food and Consumer Products of Canada, they are also the fastest growing product in the food industry with an astounding annual growth rate of 81 percent. In plain English, food bars are big business; sales in Canada alone are expected to exceed $588 million by 2011. Not surprisingly, Canada’s most healthconscious province—British Columbia—is leading the nation in the consumption and production of energy bars. With our outdoorsy, active lifestyles, British Columbians want products that save time, promote health and nutrition and taste good. Several savvy local companies are meeting that demand, producing great-tasting, nutritious bars that are winning fans not only in B.C. but around the globe. Here are my picks for B.C.’s best homegrown energy bars. ELEVATE ME BARS—Produced by PROsnack Natural Foods Inc., a small family business based in Vancouver, Elevate Me bars prove that when it comes to food, simple and unadulterated is best. There is no long laundry list of ingredients here—the bars, available in seven flavours—are a simple blend of whey protein isolate, antioxidantrich dried fruits and nuts. According to company founder Earl Ellingson, the emphasis is on “the quality of the ingredients, not the quantity.” This creed is certainly evident in the taste of the bars. My personal favourite is the Blueberry, Cranberry, Goji Berry Boost, but I’m also looking forward to trying the company’s newest addition—the Chocolate, Acai Berry Brownie Bar. Who says healthy can’t be decadent? VEGA VIBRANCE BARS—Formulated by Vancouver triathlete Brendan Brazier and produced by Port Coquitlam-based Sequel Naturals, Vibrance Bars contain a unique blend of raw, organic, plant-based superfoods one doesn’t usually find in an energy bar. For instance, the essential fatty acid content of the bars is supplied by an exotic mix of green tea seed oil, pomegranate seed oil and blueberry seed oil. Other ingredients certain to please health-conscious foodies include sprouted nuts and

seeds, acai berries and chardonnay grapes. Available in three flavours—Chocolate Decadence, Green Synergy and Wholesome Original—the bars don’t have the dry, depressing texture associated with some vegan bars. In fact, they’re quite succulent with the chocolate flavour being the definite standout. Small in size, but mighty in nutrition and taste, these bars are perfect for mornings when dashboard dining is a necessity. PERFECT 10 BARS—Another made-inVancouver bar, Perfect 10’s are concocted using a simple, yet remarkably tasty formula of three fruits, three nuts and four seeds. No fillers, preservatives or added sweeteners are used. And every Perfect 10 bar has an impressive 450 mg of hearthealthy omega 3 fatty acids derived from ground flaxseed. Not impressed yet? Consider this—NASA chose Perfect 10’s as its “snack of choice” for a recent expedition to the Andes. There are five main flavours— cranberry, apple, lemon, apricot and cherry. (Cranberry, lemon and apricot are also available as Perfect Bliss bars, with dark chocolate added to the original recipe.) The marriage of sweet, plump apricots and dark chocolate in the Apricot Bliss bar certainly gets a perfect 10 from me. OPTIMUM ENERGY BARS—I’ve placed these bars from Richmond’s Nature’s Path Foods Inc. last on my list for two reasons. First, I find the name a tad misleading—energy is derived from food period—no specific brand of food bar is going to provide you with “optimum” or enhanced energy. Second, these bars have a long, albeit predominantly healthy, list of ingredients. It’s the palm oil, carrageenan, cornstarch and calcium carbonate on the list that I find questionable. However, despite these minor blemishes, Optimum Bars remain a healthy and delicious snack option. Made from organic whole grains and fruits, they come in five flavours, with the pomegranate and cherry variety being my handsdown winner for best taste and texture. If you’re looking for a healthy alternative to a candy bar, these “sweetened” bars are a fine choice. Honourable Mention—Hippie Bars from Whistler’s Own Bakeshop.

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LOCAL HERO

— by Katie Zdybel

MICHAEL ABLEMAN Salt Spring Island’s farmer extraordinaire

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Perched high up Mt. Maxwell, in a clearing you could miss if you didn’t know just how to find it, sits Foxglove Farm, one of B.C.’s most extraordinary farms. On this hot and brilliantly sunny day, Foxglove’s 120 acres are alive with rows of strawberries, the curling vines of melons and the bushy heads of carrots. Near the raspberry patch, an audible buzz grows so loud you have to raise your voice to speak over it—very happy bees are at toil. A new orchard boasts the exotic choices of Russian almonds, persimmons, quince, fig and apricot. Foxglove grows a rainbow spectrum of produce, and when they sell them at the island’s Tuesday and Saturday farmer’s markets, aesthetics play a large role. “I approach agriculture very much as an artist,” says farmer Michael Ableman, meaning the farmland itself is beautiful to behold, but so are the fruits of their labour. Bouquets of deep red beets, rosy and golden carrots colour their market stand in the fall while there are baskets of carefully chosen ruby berries in the summer. Foxglove Farm is a local pearl. Not only does it boast an impressive variety of artfully selected crops, it is also home to a cultural and education centre that offers a wide array of farming, art and community-building courses. At the helm of this operation is farmer Michael Ableman who found his way to Salt Spring from California. The name Michael Ableman is well known among the West coast farming community. A long career of very public organic farming includes his three books, the creation of Foxglove Farm’s education centre and his 20 years at the Center for Urban Agriculture at Fairview Gardens (a non-profit based on one of the oldest and most diverse organic farms in southern California). I say public farming because there are two camps I’m familiar with in the modern organic farming world. First, there are those farmers who grow and raise and keep quietly to themselves, preferring the company of green things or four-footed creatures. Then, there are those who grow and raise and feel inspired to share what they’ve learned through writing and speaking and who invite people onto their land to experience their farm firsthand, hoping to spread the message of organics and small farming through hands-on experience. Ableman is gracefully of the latter camp. “The land informs us what goes on there—if you pay attention,” he told me as we sat perched on a slope looking out over a vista of crops. “This land wants people here,” he said. A cluster of rustic cottage dwellings, a view that climbs up to the clouds, a walking trail to cool, refreshing Maxwell Lake seem to confirm Ableman’s intuition. It is easy to see why people love to retreat here in the original homestead dwelling and why they come to work as apprentices or to attend one of the many art and education programs Foxglove hosts (www.foxglovefarmbc.ca). And as welcoming as it is, the farm is also far enough off Salt Spring Island’s beaten path to filters its visitors and dwellers—you’ve really got to want to be here to make the journey. It took Ableman himself quite a few years of annual visits before he realized he wanted to live here. “You know, the land chooses us,” Ableman said, reflecting on his own journey. “And then you have to remember the person whose shoulders you’re standing on.” By this Ableman means not only the farmers who preceded him here on the land, but also the native people who lived on Mt. Maxwell before them. It is his strong inclination to share his land that set Ableman apart. The education centre has back-to-back programs lined up throughout the summer with visiting artists, writers and teachers to guide the variety of workshops. And while he clearly wants to make the most of this farm, he refuses to exploit it. His unique approach to farming as an art form, his commitment to bringing people onto the farm and his clear respect for the history of the place make Foxglove Farm truly special. Ableman looks out over the verdant crops and muses, “This place is here to rejuvenate people, to nourish. All I’m doing is following its script.”

For a limited time.

tapas + wine nights

This fall, Executive Chef Dave Roger is proud to present a new tantalizing Tapas menu. Pair this with our specially priced $20 bottles of wine from our exclusive feature sheet available on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Visit www.marriottvictoria.com/firewater to view menus.

728 Humboldt Street in the Victoria Marriott Tel: (250) 480-3828

* Special Tapas menu available daily, $20 bottles of select wine features are available on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays from 5pm to 10pm, September 1 to October 31, 2009. Minimum purchase of one Tapas order per person required in order to take advantage of the specially priced wine. Not valid with any other offer. Promotion subject to end without notice.

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPT | OCTOBER 2009

ng ki r o

Ke ep in

Pa rt ne rs hi

Lo ca l

Ristorante

L3 a iola

GET AWAYS — by Joseph Blake

3189 Quadra St. Next to the Italian Bakery Call for reservations: 388-4517 www.lapiola.ca

Cucina Tradizionale Gastronomia Locale

new restaurant

lounge

Modern west coast cuisine with international inspirations, served in Victoria’s nicest room. Join us for dinner tonight. Parties welcome - private rooms available.

525 Fort Street, Victoria (between Government and Wharf) 250-383-2313 14

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2009

TRAVELS WITH JESSE

MAD …

One proud father, one chef son and a well-informed week of eating well. Travelling with a grown child is one of life’s luxuries, a rare treat. Travelling with one of my sons, a veteran chef who now owns Wildside Grill in Tofino, is even more fun. Every meal during our recent trip to southern California offered insight into the restaurant business. Half the time, he even picked up the tab! Last year Jesse and I flew down to Seattle for a weekend while another of my sons (who lives in California) was in Seattle coaching his college basketball team. We all had such a great time Jesse and I decided to fly down to Los Angeles for a week of basketball and dining on Coach Blake’s home turf. I found us a cheap flight from Seattle to Burbank Airport on Southwest Air that avoided the crowds and chaos of LA International and landed us nearer my son’s Cal State Northridge campus. This time, we took the high-speed catamaran for the trip down to Seattle, and I watched as Chef Jesse gleefully disassembled a $7.50 basket of smoked salmon, cream cheese, crackers, apple sauce and Italian cookies. “This is a big piece of wild salmon!” Jesse enthused. An avid hunter, surfer and fisherman who spent one summer away from his cooking career as a fishing guide, my son was taken aback by the meal’s value. “We couldn’t put this package together for $7.50. This is great tasting smoked salmon. Sadly, the packaging is a little over the top,” Chef Blake concluded. The next morning, we flew down to L.A.. Coach Blake met us after practice and drove us to California Tamale House, his favourite Mexican joint in one of the San Fernando Valley’s seemingly endless strip malls. “Not the greatest ambiance, but smell the fresh corn flavour of these tamales!” Jesse exclaimed as he unwrapped the corn husk to reveal the moist, homemade masa. He leaned forward and inhaled the tamale’s succulent shreds of roast chicken spiced with garlic, cumin seeds and a mixture of powdered serrano and jalapeño peppers. “The masa’s sweet moistness provides the perfect balance for the meat’s tender, spicy texture. Delicioso!” Chef Jesse crowed. Another of Coach Blake’s favourite haunts is Stevie’s Creole Café & Bar, a hangout for an African-American crowd that includes celebrities like Magic Johnson, Sinbad and Jamie Foxx. We settled into a corner table and feasted on seafood gumbo with a big King Crab leg poking out of the bowl, crispy-fired catfish and oysters, and delicious cornbread. Jesse and I both were disappointed that the gumbo substituted slices of Polish sausage for the essential flavours of andouille sausage, but the room’s cool, urbane ambiance and everything else about our meal was more than satisfying. The Garden Terrace Café at the Getty Center is a great place to have lunch al fresco. The buffet-style café offered a wide variety of modestly priced dishes from around the world using local and organic produce, but Jesse was critical of the organization of multiple cashiers and condiment stations. That part of the café needed a redesign, but the patio provided a bucolic setting in the Getty’s spectacular gardens. On a drive south along the Pacific Coast Highway, we discovered Nick’s in Laguna Beach. Jesse perked up as soon as we settled into a booth near the glassed-in kitchen. “Look at this room,” he raved. “Someone who has been in the restaurant business awhile put this together. It’s so minimally elegant and streamlined. There’s not a rough edge or wasted space in the place.” Jesse found the menu equally well-thought-out and attractive. I learned Nick’s was an outgrowth of a series of restaurants including the Claim Jumper chain and the original Nik’s in Long Beach, a diner with iconic status in the 1950s. The grandson of the original owner (who actually founded Nik’s as a hotdog stand in the 1920s outside the Olympic Auditorium in downtown LA) was a partner in this modern, Laguna Beach restaurant. Jesse’s intuition about the place was exactly right. Nick’s had been almost a century in the making. We made one more discovery before heading home—breakfast at Aroma Bakery Café in Encino. “Look at all these exotic offerings,” Jesse said while leafing through the café’s sprawling menu. We saw dozens of versions of Jerusalem bagel toasts, including one with Labane spread and Zaatar plus Samboosaks and Ziva puffed pastries from the clay oven. “This place is great. We’ve got to come back and have lunch here!” I learned a lot from my son during our week in LA. Now I watch for a server’s body language, and when there is an open kitchen I check out the neatness of the chef’s work stations. I’m more attentive to the room’s design and notice if it and the menu reflect clarity and purpose. I think about the boy who used to make a mess in my kitchen and how he grew up to be a wise and hard working chef. It makes me proud. California Tamale House, 15404 Nordoff St., North Hills Stevie’s Creole Café & Bar, 16911 Ventura Blvd., Encino Garden Terrace Café at Getty Center, 1200 Getty Center Dr., Los Angeles Nick’s, 440 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach Aroma Bakery Café, 18047 Ventura Blvd., Encino

Gary Hynes

The Best of Italy and Vancouver Island

FOOD

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There are times when opening a business opens the door to roles beyond business. For James and Angeline Street, launching Brambles Market has turned them into educators, advocates and network builders as well as newly minted entrepreneurs. Their new enterprise in downtown Courtenay is making its mark as the first grocery store in the province to sell British Columbia goods exclusively. Gambling that the demand for local is potent enough to sustain an entire market, the Streets have stocked the shelves with produce, dry goods, meat, frozen foods, dairy items, baking and preserves from sources across the street and across the province. Of their 180 suppliers, 90 percent are from Vancouver Island and the Lower Mainland, which adds up to remarkably fresh merchandise for a grocery store context. “Everything we have in our case today was picked yesterday,” Angeline said during a recent interview. There’s a palpable excitement in her voice as she does. Customers have responded with equal enthusiasm, expressing appreciation that staff can report where items come from as well as the exact ingredients. They also like that products have been sourced with due diligence, though the Streets have found themselves needing to educate those accustomed to a year-round supply of any fruit or vegetable. With store offerings corresponding to the B.C. growing season, some customers need help grasping the concept of seasonal availability. Customer confusion aside, Angeline Street reports their biggest challenge has been establishing a steady supply chain. “We are building infrastructure from the ground up,” she says, adding it’s beyond a full-time job to find producers, working from approved facilities, to stock the shelves with strictly B.C. products. While noting it’s hard to be the first, the Streets feel they are fulfilling a much-needed role in creating the infrastructure for a province-wide supply chain. In doing so, they’ve become the “go-to” people for other retailers, restaurants and suppliers. They’ve also become a secure, year-round source of sales for growers, and in that regard hope the presence of Brambles translates into increased business for B.C. food producers. “Our hope is that we can achieve high enough levels to make it worthwhile for more farmers to grow food,” she says. This is where James and Angeline Street have become advocates: they want Brambles to be an example to other stores and for consumers to demand more local products when they realize the range of what’s available. They believe this combination is crucial to making B.C. food production more sustainable. That said, they are not looking to preach to customers, most of whom “are not those beating the drums the loudest, but rather people making a conscious decision to eat better.” Angeline adds that they’ve identified no typical customer trait beyond a desire to get back to “real” food. “We are bringing in food that tastes like you would remember as a kid,” she explains. And that seems to be the role making the biggest impact of all.

Get fresh

Innovative seasonal cuisine to share with friends 2583 Cadboro Bay Rd. | (250) 598 2828

Brambles Market; 24-A 4th Street; Courtenay, B.C.; 250-334-8163; www.bramblesmarket.ca

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPT | OCTOBER 2009

RESTAURANT REPORTER: VICTORIA

COR

The Oyster Bar | 614 Humboldt St., Victoria | 250.385.5562

Welcome

Slinging back raspberry mojitos and sweet jazz, I peruse the oyster guide at the oyster, yet another of Mike Murphy’s brainchildren. No effinghams (“plump, tender, briny, lettuce like finish”) today, but no matter, the kusshis (“buttery, rich, salty, sweet, mildly fruity finish”), and a maybe the phantom creek (“fresh + sweet with a slightly fruity aftertaste”) from premium list will do. There is a steady cross breeze from the open French doors and, with its deep orange walls, high ceilings, trendy staff and sleek bar, The oyster is hip and welcoming.

Rebecca Wellmam

From top center, clockwise: Kusshi, Phantom creek, Malpeque, Little Wing, Fanny Bay, Satori, Black pearl at Oyster.

Rebecca Wellmam

“He was a bold man that first ate an oyster.” – Jonathan Swift (from the oyster website) The lunch menu includes a House Smoked Beef Carpaccio, Pan Seared Sooke Trout and Lobster and King Crab Cannelloni. Dinner offers Oysters Rockefeller, Braised Beef Short Ribs and Chili Roasted Jumbo Prawns. I was impressed by the raw scallop that was on special when I visited. Served on its own six-inch span shell, this guest appearance was delicate, substantial and wonderful to behold. The oyster has live music Fridays and Saturdays and DJ beats on Sundays. Victoria is always in need of more live music venues, and this is a sweet location, On tap, they serve seven of the finest local beers, including Driftwood Brewery’s White Bark Ale. — by Gillie Easdon

Bistro 28 | 2583 Cadboro Bay Rd., Victoria | 250.598-2828

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2009

Rebecca Wellmam

Chef Sam Chalmers of Bistro 28 breathes a sigh of relief as I confirm his approach to the menu for his almost thirty days old restaurant – and chuckles nervously… “Yes, there is a sense of humor in my menu and my culinary methodology – and you got it.” Although I would have described his approach and delivery as intellectual whimsy on the plate, the overarching result is that of perfection well beyond Sam’s 29 years on the planet. Sam shrugs, “I did the program at Dubrulle International Culinary Arts in Vancouver and the Northwest Culinary Academy for pastry… and was ready… eager… to dig in.” Owning a restaurant and being the chef de cuisine is a tall order for someone twice Sam’s age but he learnt the management side of the house running various night clubs in Edmonton, Alberta – got some schooling under his cap and cut his teeth at the Superior Café, Stage and Bon Rouge – and then surrounded himself with some good people before launching his own venture. My dinner companion and I sip a five-ounce glass of New Zealand Syrah during the first of subsequent visits to Bistro 28. She picked a four-ounce Kobe steak, medium rare with pommes frites, its texture like Ahi tuna – utterly melt-in-your-mouth! Kobe-style beef originates in Japan, is beer fed, massaged with sake and slaughtered painlessly and humanely – by design, it’s well-marbled and like many items on Bistro 28’s intellectually gifted menu, tends to weigh in on the modest end of the portion size. I have pork belly three ways; grilled pork belly medallions on brown beans, a diminutive wedge of roast pork belly and pulled pork on grilled toast. What I noticed, almost immediately about Bistro 28, is the irrepressible desire to converse with our fellow diners – there was an endless show and tell of adjacent food delivery replete with sighs of satisfaction… and promises of future exploration. We return within a few nights and virtually all twenty-six seats on the floor (and 10 at the bar) are filled. We open with local spot prawns “Pil Pil”- baked in Olive oil, chili’s, garlic and parsley lemon gremolata on a toasted baguette. There are some simple ingredients for this classic Spanish tapa but care in execution is critical – and Sam nailed it; sweetness in the prawn, a flirtation of heat, some ringing astringency in the citrus and just enough garlic not to overbear the shellfish. Our mains include scallops capped with a round of crisp, grilled pork belly and a side of greens. I have the porcini dusted halibut, garnished with cilantro on a bed of celeriac – stunning.

Chef Sam Chalmers w/ Grilled Metchosin Lamb Chops, Minted and Creamed Mushy Peas, Mixed Pea and Sesame Salad, Duck Jus. We close with double shots of 2% Jazz espresso coffee, a chocolate bowl (with a glance of black rock salt) and a maple tart. – Colin Newel

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The website encourages us to, “Get fresh with a local. With an invite like that, how can you refuse? And it’s not just a cute tagline (though that it is). Niagara Grocery’s new owners Jennifer McKimmie and Ken Winchester aim to introduce two local products a week to their James Bay shop. And it certainly hasn’t been difficult to source local so far, five months in. Galloping Goose Sausage, Babe’s Honey, Portofino Breads, Hot Chick Spices, Moonstruck Cheese, Denman Island Chocolates as well as offerings from Langford Foods and Mountain Ash Farm – and that’s just a small sampling and doesn’t even include the fresh produce from the Saanich Peninsula. I recently spied tayberries, pea shoots and pattypan squash – straight from small-scale local farms. Of course, with such freshness, selection changes constantly. And that’s a big benefit according to McKimmie. “We’ll have a farmer drop off flats of berries at 4 p.m. and Ken will colour it up on the chalkboard outside – “local berry bonanza” – and within an hour, there isn’t a berry left to be had! The 1,000-square-foot building on Niagara just west of Government was originally a barn dating back to 1907, during the days when Niagara Street was a main streetcar route. It remained a popular little sundries store up until April 2009, when the couple took it over. And while they still stock the household essentials (light bulbs, balloons, cat food, etc.), those items share floor space with fresh line-caught halibut, gluten-free fare and freshly laid eggs. Welcome to the new generation corner store. Pushed aside of late by the flash of the 7-Elevens and gas stations of the world, Niagara Grocery is part of a growing renaissance of community, owner-operated shops catering to their particular neighbourhood, and in tune with what people are looking for nowadays – flavour and fresh over flash. Extensive cleaning and renos by the pair has opened up the store considerably. Hardwood floors lie where there once was ancient laminate, coats of paint have freshened the walls and boarded-up windows have been unsheathed to let in the natural light. The interior shelving space has also been rejigged, allowing for easy-wheeled access for everything from strollers to wheelchairs – a reflection of the spectrum of locals that have quickly become regulars. McKimmie and Winchester come by this food-and-beverage passion naturally, both wellknown figures in the local food and wine community. McKimmie was most recently director of food and beverage for the Fairmont Empress, while Winchester founded award-winning Winchester Cellars and developed local favourite Victoria Gin. Being in the store for 12 hours a day every day since April 1 hasn’t dampened their enthusiasm – or their creativity. Winchester has begun Mile 0 Coffee Roasters, a boutique beans-by-demand roastery that customizes blends for individuals, restaurants, B&Bs and more. McKimmie, a certified tea sommelier, has begun importing loose-leaf tea and creating her own blends – again, customizing upon request. Both tea and coffee outlets complement the store well and are growing daily in popularity. Which was the plan from day one. “We wanted to create a real neighbourhood place – a community fixture - where families could come, find something special and purchase local and fresh,” says Winchester. Fresh with a local indeed.

waterfront restaurant + patio Shaken. Stirred. Sunset. Floor-to-ceiling views of Victoria’s sparkling Inner Harbour West Coast Pacific Rim-inspired cuisine t Sunday brunch Large waterfront patio t Gold medal chefs INN ATtLAUREL POINT 680 MONTREAL STREET VICTORIA BC CANADA V8V 1Z8 680 MONTREAL STREET T 250.414.6739 WWW.AURARESTAURANT.CA T 250.414.6739 TF 1.800.663.7667 t WWW.AURARESTAURANT.CA

Niagara Grocery, 567 Niagara St., Mon.-Fri., 8 a.m.-8 p.m., Sat. 9 a.m.-8 p.m., Sun. 10 a.m.6 p.m. 250-383-1223, www.niagaragrocery.com, local pantry page is updated regularly.

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPT | OCTOBER 2009

The Budget Gourmet 1 0 0 % O R G A N I C | FA I RT R A D E | L O C A L LY OW N E D & O P E R AT E D

We love sharing our passion for tea. Explore tea history and tea culture

EATING WELL FOR LESS

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;by Elizabeth Smyth

Demitasse, 2164 McNeill at Roslyn, 598-6668

by attending a traditional Tea Ceremony. Tantalize your taste buds with a visit to our Tea Tasting Bar. Take a Cooking with Tea class, learn about the LIEPXL FIRIÂ˝XW SJ XIE SV HMWGSZIV the world of rare tea varietals.

Rebecca Wellman

Experteas Check out our events calendar at www.silkroadtea.com for tea tastings, workshops and activities.

Kukus family

Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always something brewing at Silk Road! Rebecca Wellman

www.silkroadtea.com 1624 Government St. Victoria Chinatown

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EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2009

Owner Rob Rogers with mushroom strudel and peanut butter crispy square Demitasse has romance. Informal, rustic, small French village romance, but romance nonetheless. This cosy neighbourhood deli, bakery, and cornerstore offers a host of sweet and savoury treats: mushroom strudel, portabella and asparagus tart, tofu in garlic and orange dressing, spanakopita, beet and kale salad, and chicken pot pie are just a few of the surprisingly large repertoire of goodies such a small place spills out. Two French chefs are hard at work in the kitchen, and their training shows. The base of pastry in the portabella and asparagus tart has soft, translucent layers; the mushroom strudel boasts the same pastry encasing fresh, earthy seasonal mushrooms blended with Cambozola cheese. The spanakopita has a subtle difference from the norm; the requisite creamy spinach and cheese puree is there, but it also has big chunks of cheese providing some firm texture and substance when you bite in. An excellent light accompaniment to these richer dishes is the beet, kale, and goat cheese salad. It looks like Christmas and tastes like summer. The raw baby kale and grated beets are topped with the daintiest of lemon vinaigrettes, and the mild cheese provides a creamy counterpoint. Demitasse is also a coffee and dessert destination. The renowned childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favourite, the peanut butter crispy square with three jaunty Smarties on top, wound up being my surprise favourite as well, though to name a favourite is definitely to split hairs. Lemon squares are the perfect balance of sweet and tart, the pecan squares are velvety luxury in every bite, and the carrot cake cookie is a witty inversion of the cake, with two soft cookie layers sandwiching a cream cheese icing. The sweets range in price from $2.75 to $3.50; the savouries are priced by the piece or by 100 grams, and are all reasonable. There are only ten seats; hopefully you can snag one and linger; if not, Demitasse is well set up for take-out.

Kukuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, 24 Burnside Road West at Harriet, 778-430-KUKU Before I give you the lowdown on Kukuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best deal, the $18.95 family combo, I just have to tell you about the goat curry, which got me very excited. The thick, dry sauce redolent of onions and Masala spices clings to chunks of tender goat meat. This curry has a robust, masculine quality; in contrast, the butter chicken seems more feminine. It is delicate; the tomato and sweet cream flavours dance, and the spicing is subtle. The very mild spicing is

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I stumbled upon this place when I was fleeing from the home reno stores in this industrial area. This restaurant is set up to provide carb and protein loading to the construction workers, serving quick burgers, spaghetti and meatballs, and the like. But wait a second. Why the rich morel and oyster mushroom soup as the soup of the day? Where did this come from? I wasn’t complaining, but it seemed so out of context. Well, it turns out there are two sides to this business. As well as the fixed sheet of meat joint standards, there are also daily specials – daily specials which often coincide with whatever dishes the owners are working on for their catering business. So, if they have a catering gig the day you go, you just might end up enjoying said morel soup…or Italian pepperonata stew…or lemon-scented salmon fillet. The salmon was light, moist, and served on a bed of mixed greens and julienned vegetables. And the pepperonata was excellent. This Italian sausage stew boasted chunks of flavourful sausage and rough-cut onions and green, red, and yellow peppers. The tomato sauce for the stew speaks to chef Cesare’s Italian origins - it is bright and flavourful, with hand-diced pieces of tomato in it and bright flavours of basil, oregano, and garlic. This is like nothing you can buy in a store. Another out-of-context surprise was the dessert, which wasn’t even on the board, but was offered to us verbally. It was an out-and-out glamorous confection called zuccotto. It’s a cross between a trifle and a baked Alaska. Swirls of strawberry, chocolate, and vanilla icecream are sandwiched between layers of almond sponge cake soaked in Strega liquor; the whole thing is topped with a layer of chocolate ganache. Cesare uses his mother’s recipe, which goes to show, once again, that the personal touch is in the specials. Amazingly, these specials are offered for the same price as the fixed menu: $8.00 gets you an entrée served with a choice of French fries, clam chowder, soup of the day, or mixed greens salad. For the experience of Italy the pepperonata gave me, this is beyond fair. You are welcome to phone ahead to ask what the daily specials are.

EXCELLENT FOOD BEAUTIFUL VIEWS WORTH THE DRIVE!

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an appropriate choice, as the butter chicken is the mainstay of the abovementioned family combo. Also included are saffron rice, which is nothing special; four fat samosas generously stuffed with potatoes, peas, and carrots; and four pieces of gulab jamun, a sweet, sticky milk ball in rose-flavoured sugar syrup. How many people does the combo feed? It’s hard to say. Enthusiastic EAT Magazine readers – probably two. Adults with more dainty appetites – maybe three. This is an excellent deal for a frugal and hungry diner who is willing to pick up; adding in the $5.00 cost of delivery still makes it a fair price. To supplement the family combo, other good picks are the shrimp and fish pakora. The deep-frying is done carefully, resulting in a crisp, non-greasy batter. The accompanying dips are interesting; the deep amber tamarind sauce blends notes of sweet and sour, and the grass-coloured mint sauce is a puree of green onions, cilantro, mint of course, and green chili peppers. The Kuku’s concept focuses on takeout, but there are six bar stools for eating on site, and parking is around the corner on Harriet St. Coming soon is a buffet adjoining the take-out joint. Herewith is my official request to the owners that the goat curry be on that buffet table. I’d pay extra.

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Rebecca Wellman

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Victoria

Yo u b o u , C o w i c h a n L a k e , B r i t i s h C o l u m b i a 10524 You b o u R d | 250-745-3388 | w w w.youboubargr ill.com

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPT | OCTOBER 2009

TRAVEL REPORTER: THE OKANAGAN VALLEY

Lunch in the Vineyard Text by JENNIFER SCHELL-PIGOTT Photography by GARY HYNES

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On a gloriously sunny October day, a group of local Okanagan epicureans, including local food and wine writer Jennifer Schell-Pigott, gathered for a potluck lunch amid pinot noir-laden vines at CedarCreek Estate Winery. Some of the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most celebrated chefs, farmers, artisan food producers, winemakers, writers and all-purpose foodies were there to honour the harvest and celebrate life in wine country with their community.

We were in Mother Nature’s dining hall, the occasional buzz of a tractor or the beep of a vineyard manager’s walkie-talkie to remind us that we were, indeed, in the midst of a harvest. It was the perfect backdrop for what this tribe of food folk represents: those behind the label. One long harvest table was becomingly draped in white tablecloths and set atop a layer of hay to keep the vineyard dust under control. Hosts Tom DiBello, CedarCreek’s winemaker, and his artist wife Tari had arranged the transportation of all of the tables, chairs, dishes and cutlery up to this rugged venue. One could hear gasps as guests emerged from the wooded path onto the surprise vista of secluded hilltop vineyard and spectacular lake view. The buffet table, laden with the potluck offerings, was just as spectacular. There was Michael Allemeier’s dynamite pulled pork sandwiches and cheese galore from beloved Poplar Grove cheesemaker Gitta Sutherland. Also on the table: baskets of artisan breads from bakery friends; fresh salad greens with edible flowers from Donna Denison at Little Creek Gardens; Summerland heirloom tomato and goat cheese tarts; B.C. scallops from local seafood shop Hooked on Seafood; a genius goat milk gelato brought by award-winning goat cheese artisans Ofri and Ofre Barmor from Carmelis; and cute little cakes in a jar from Monika and Bill Walker at Okanagan Grocery/Artisan Breads. Chef Rod Butters wowed everyone with his cream cheese mousse topped with locally grown golden raspberries. The key words on the menu? Made/raised/grown/created locally. Toasts were made and a round of Raven Ridge’s newest venture, iced Anjou pear cider, was distributed. Tom DiBello asked us to raise our glasses to those out in the fields and vineyards working hard to get the crush completed. Chef Geoffrey Couper of the Corked Cook Food and Wine Co. (“Cheffrey,” as he is affectionately known) was the man at the grill, carving and serving up Armstrong raised lamb tenderloin and mixed sausages from his favourite source for meats, North Okanagan Game Meats. He took a break to explain the unique piece of sculpture displayed nearby by guest Annabel Stanley (wife of Grant Stanley, winemaker at Quail’s Gate). For many in this group, especially the growers, autumn is their busiest season and this was a precious break in a busy day. So conversation came easily and often focused on the issue of how to sustain, maintain and strategically grow what has become their protected and beloved terroir. DiBello delighted

the crowd with his pre-harvest fortune telling. Throwing a grape high into the air, the winemaker advised that if he could catch it in his mouth, the forecast would be for a smooth harvest. If he missed, well, disaster awaited. There should have been a drum roll at this point—the grape was thrown and impressively caught. All of the chefs who attended this gastronomist’s convention of sorts share common philosophies, which is probably what brought them to this fertile valley in the first place. They are all practicing sustainability, cooking with local ingredients, supporting the farmers and the good health of our entire community—physically and financially. They care about what they are going to feed us, and how we can support each other. It is a very old world lifestyle. Not unusual for those of us raised by parents on farms, especially European immigrants. You learned to use everything you had—growing your own fruits and vegetables and then canning them for the winter. Raising a pig for ham and sausage, chickens for eggs, grapes for wine—even geese for feathers and food. What you didn’t have could be traded for with your neighbour. This is community. As the world goes through its cycles of financial changes and uncertainty, it is pleasing to watch a community like this focus on what is really important: sustainability, collaboration and farming. Growing up on an apple orchard, I always found it difficult to understand the financial difficulties farmers inevitably dealt with. “But you are growing food!?” I remember saying, bewildered, to my Dad. “And why do the stores sell apples from Washington and not ours?” Thankfully, the “eat locally” campaign has begun again. At the end of our wonderful day, a real breadcrumb path lead us back to our cars with our empty plates and bowls. Full, relaxed and perhaps a little more inspired about our community’s future, there was also a feeling of pride in contributing something that had been lovingly made with one’s own two hands and shared at a communal table. The last words I heard from all were, “When are we doing this again?”

left to right / top to bottom: 1. A long table set up right in the middle of the pinot noir vineyard awaits its guests. 2. Monika and Bill Walker of Okanagan Grocery/Artisan Breads 3. A selection of Carmelis cheeses 4. Judith Knight, Michael Allemeier, Rod Butters, Geoffrey Couper, Jennifer Schell-Pigott 5. Mairead Fitzpatrick delivers the good(ies) 6. CedarCreek’s winemaker Tom DiBello was kept busy opening bottles of Okanagan wine. 7. EAT was there. 8. Michael Allemeier’s pulled pork sandwiches 9. Salad greens with edible flowers from Little Creek Gardens 22

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2009

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Having Their Say I asked a few of the group some questions regarding the future of the Okanagan Valley and what inspires them. Here’s what they had to say: Geoffrey Couper, chef, the Corked Cook I hope to see the Okanagan develop as a magnet for people interested in learning about the many facets of food and wine. Education is the foundation of appreciation; industry and government working together to support and encourage cultural growth at all levels. What inspires me beyond the opportunity to work alongside the passionate producers, winemakers and fellow chefs is the chance to help shape the industry as it develops. Favourite local ingredient is Pinot Noir, hands down! After that it’s a toss up between Milan Djordjevich’s Stoney Paradise Farm tomatoes; the lamb, venison and wild boar from North Okanagan Game Meats; Stu Reads over-the-top berries at Black Raven Farm; or the kabocha squash from Tony Cetinski at Suncatcher Farm.

Rod Butters, chef/owner, RAUdz Regional Table My vision is to further the opportunities for chefs to create world-class cuisine based on the bounty of the Okanagan. This entails many things of course. First, the awareness and support of independent restaurants/hotels/inns and golf courses that reflect this vision. Second, the working partnerships between chef and supplier. This must continue to grow. And third, the education of our food service professionals. We have incredible wineries producing world-class wines. We have some of Canada’s best chefs applying their craft here. The one thing missing is a world-class accommodation like Sooke Harbour House or Wickaninnish Inn. I find the sun inspires me! It puts me in a positive frame of mind to tackle my day personally and professionally. Workwise the tremendous opportunity that the Okanagan represents is inspiring. This truly is the “chef’s ultimate playground.” So to pick one favourite ingredient would be impossible. I will say that the first delivery of spinach is a reminder that another incredible growing season will soon be upon us. Bernard Casavant, certified chef de cuisine, Sonora Room Restaurant at Burrowing Owl Estate Winery The culinary future of the Okanagan is very bright for numerous reasons. The most prominent I feel is that the area is growing rather quickly, and it seems that the younger people are moving here, rather than just retirees. These new residents are more knowledgeable about food and wine, and as such support better restaurant operators and farmers alike. As a result, I think we will continue to see the advancement of superior agriculture and also the continued growth of our restaurants. My inspiration lies with the farmers and producers. I am constantly humbled with the vast amount of

dedication they show. They are truly our unsung culinary heroes. My absolute favourite ingredient would have to be heirloom tomatoes. They are so colourful, with fantastic variety in texture and taste. To achieve our true culinary destination potential, we must provide constant support to local farmers and producers. Buy local! This coupled with quality accommodation and restaurants will aid in the continued growth of our agri-tourism sector. A great wine and food experience for all of our visitors is needed to ensure that they return, after having a genuine taste of our region. Nicole Bullock, orchardist and proprietor, Raven Ridge Cidery My vision for the future in the Okanagan is sustainability. I personally think that if you want to save it, you must eat it. I have to agree with the new saying: “Vote with your fork.” What inspires me is the new/old way of being in contact with the people who produce our food. We are slowly becoming a community dependent on each other again. My favourite ingredients to cook with are tomatoes and Hungarian peppers. The Okanagan Valley needs to honour not only the commercial farmers but also the neighbours who so nicely pass you a bag of lettuce or potatoes that they have too much of. In doing so, the potential of community will be achieved. Donna Denison, owner/creator, Little Creek Dressings My vision is to establish a higher profile of respect and appreciation for the farmers who grow our food, and the artisans who create culinary delights with that food. What inspires me is the absolutely profound beauty of nature, and the abundance of what can be produced in the Okanagan. My favourite ingredient is Dale’s [husband and grower of Little Creek salad greens] certified organic arugula and salad mixes, accented with local cheese, nuts or fruits and topped with Little Creek Dressing! Celebrate, create, gather, share and support the artisans of food—farmers, producers, chefs, culinary appreciators. Monika Walker, owner/baker, Okanagan Grocery/Artisan Breads The future will see an increasing number of restaurants and other food businesses working more closely with local producers and farmers. Only a few years ago, some valley restaurants had wine lists consisting entirely of Australian

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2009

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Gitta Sutherland, owner/creator, Poplar Grove Cheese I don’t think I have any magical answers to your questions, but for me there is always a fear of changes happening too fast. I would like to see the Okanagan and its small communities stay as the little pieces of heaven they are, without trying to pretend we are like the big cities. There is something so unique about the Okanagan, with the small farms producing everything under the sun, and I’d like to keep seeing it that way. I welcome all the new ventures that aim to bring tourists up to our area to enjoy the bounty of the Okanagan, cooking classes, winery events, restaurants that feature local produce and wine. And I love to see the awareness that is evolving, in eating locally, supporting our industry. Judith Knight, chef, CedarCreek Terrace Restaurant My culinary vision for the Okanagan would have to be a food and wine mecca, where producers are plentiful and are encouraged to grow the wonderful heirloom varieties of fruits and vegetables that once existed. Don’t get me wrong; there are some wonderful growers here already, but I don’t think they get the encouragement they deserve. We need these caring people to grow our food. So I would just like to see more government recognition and affirmative action for small farmers. People are becoming more interested in where their food is coming from. I’d like to think that people would come here on food and wine holidays to spend a little time working in a vineyard and do a little gardening. Relax and destress! (I would also like to see more funky little places to eat.) The pace of life here is pretty cool. I am inspired by the amazing quality of the wine being produced in this valley. Also the climate is so great for growing the most amazing fruits and vegetables. Favourite local ingredients are peaches, nectarines, tomatoes, abundant basil and heavenly corn. Mark Filatow, chef, 764 Restaurant/Waterfront Wines Restaurant & Wine Bar I see the Okanagan coming of age. We have fantastic ingredients and a developing camaraderie between chefs, that will fuel a common vision/ goal and band together to promote the valley. The ingredients inspire me.... When I worked in Tofino I used to pick up Dungeness Crab straight from the Boat. Here in the Okanagan I can pick herbs and Tomatoes from my own garden, stop by a cheese producer, Organic farmer, Artisan Bread Baker and a Fish monger that supplies me with fresh BC Seafood all on the way to work. That inspires me....the personalities...real people...real ingredients. The people in the Okanagan need to stand up and buy local...don't be afraid to eat seasonally. Support places that buy local. Cherries don't taste good in January, unless you are using some that you dried or canned at the peak of their season.

Michael Tourigny

Michael Allemeier, former winery chef, Mission Hill Family Estate Winery We have only begun. As more people discover how rich this wine region is, our community will grow and prosper. I see more cooks moving here and the food only getting better and better. This is one of our country’s richest agriculture regions; we produce some of the best ingredients in the land, and it’s only natural that this will attract cooks. We truly have our own terroir and you can taste this in Okanagan wines. What we need is more world-class accommodation and better transportation infrastructure (a wine train, for example). My favourite local ingredient depends on the season. However, if I had to choose I would say quince. Love it fresh and love to can it to use in leaner seasons.

COVE

and Californian wines—shocking by today’s standards. My inspiration is the overwhelming selection and incredible quality of fruits and vegetables. Every time I think I’ve found a new favourite, something else comes along and blows my mind. I visit Mark Filatow at Waterfront, and he drops some incredible berries into the palm of my hand. Or I drop off a delivery for the folks at Urban Harvest, and they introduce me to a new variety of apple (Aurora Golden Gala—yum!) The apple is king to me. And the Okanagan definitely has the best apples I’ve ever eaten. My current favourite is the “Honeycrisp,” introduced to me by Penny [Gambell] from Gambell Farms. We have talented new people arriving here all the time and some extremely skillful visionaries in place to mentor them. As long as the existing culinary hotspots keep up their level of quality and consistency, we will have no problem achieving a higher potential.

Preparation

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Preparation time: 30 minutes, Cooking time: About 60 minutes, Makes: 4 servings • 1 medium acorn squash, quartered lengthwise, seeds removed and discarded • 3 Tbsp olive oil • Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste • 2 fresh chorizo sausages • 1/2 medium onion, finely diced • 1 small fresh fennel bulb, core removed, remaining bulb, thinly sliced • 1/2 cup dry white wine • 2 ripe medium tomatoes, finely chopped • 2 Tbsp store-bought or homemade pesto • 2 lbs. fresh clams, rinsed in cold water (see Note) • 1 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley Preheat the oven to 375˚F. Line a 9- x 13-inch baking dish with parchment paper. Set in the squash, skin-side down. Pour in enough water to just coat the bottom the pan. Brush the flesh of the squash with 2 Tbsp of the olive oil; season with salt and pepper. Cover and roast the squash 20 minutes. Uncover the squash and roast 20 to 25 minutes more, or until tender. When the squash are about 15 minutes from being done, heat the remaining oil in widebottomed pot set over medium to medium-high heat. Remove the casing from each sausage and pull the meat into small nuggets (about 1/2-inch round) and set in the pot. Fry the sausage until cooked through. Add the onion and fennel and cook until tender, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add the wine, tomatoes and pesto and bring to a simmer. Simmer 3 to 4 minutes, and then season with salt and pepper. When the squash is tender, turn off the oven. Add the clams to the sausage/tomato mixture, bring back to a simmer, cover, and cook just until the clams open. Set a quarter squash in each of 4 wide, shallow bowls. Divide and spoon the clams and their cooking liquid over the squash on each plate. Sprinkle with parsley and serve. Note: Discard any clams that do not close when squeezed or tapped before cooking, or those that do not open after cooking. Both are signs the clam is dead and should not be eaten.

Markus’ Wharfside Restaurant

Vancouver Island’s best kept secret (250) 642-3596 1831 Maple Ave. Sooke www.markuswharfsiderestaurant.com

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPT | OCTOBER 2009

Al Fresco Fall Feast

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PUMP & SPIC

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PORK CHOPS with SIZZLED ONIONS & GRAPES

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2009

Melt butter i shallots and until fragrant Bring to a bo

Local

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Recipes and food styling by JENNIFER DANTER Photography by GENEVIEVE LAPLANTE

Take it outside – weather permitting, of course, for one last backyard dinner. Or make it a lunch on a sunny Sunday. No matter where you eat it, celebrate the bounty of fall with this sumptuous menu. PUMPKIN SOUP ã|à{ WILD RICE & SPICY SOURDOUGH CROUTONS

Meanwhile, boil wild rice until tender, 30 to 40 min, then drain. Toss with a drizzle of olive oil to keep grains from clumping. When pumpkin is soft, stir in cream and remove from heat. Discard sage, then puree soup in batches and strain into a clean saucepan. Taste and add more salt, if needed. Reheat before serving but don’t boil or cream will split. Spoon into bowls and garnish with wild rice and croutons. Croutons: Lightly toast 2 cups sourdough bread cut into croutons. Warm1/4 cup olive oil then stir in 1 tsp cayenne pepper and a pinch of salt. Pour over toasted bread and toss to mix. Spread out on a baking sheet and bake in 350F until crunchy, about 5 min.

PORK CHOPS ã|à{ SIZZLED ONIONS & GRAPES

Sautéed to golden sweetness, this onion-grape topper is a welcome change from the predictable porcine accompaniment - applesauce. Source local pork from your butcher and be sure to let the meat rest after cooking to redistribute all the delicious juices.

One of my pet peeves is a pureed soup that’s so thick it’s akin to baby food. Not here – this is just thick enough with a luscious velvety texture. When cooking with pumpkin, leave the big jack-o-lanterns for the kids to carve and choose smaller Sugar Pumpkins or New England Pie Pumpkins – they’re much sweeter and less grainy. • Butter, 2 tbsp • Fresh sage, 2 to 3 large sprigs • Shallots, 2, chopped • Sea salt • Garlic cloves, 2, minced • Maple syrup, 2 tbsp • Chicken broth, 4 cups • Chopped pumpkin or butternut squash, 8 cups • Wild rice, 1/4 cup • Table cream, 1 cup

• Butter, small knob • Double loin pork loin centre cut chops, 6 • Pinches of sea salt and pepper • Onions, sliced, 2 • Garlic cloves, 2, minced • Red seedless grapes, 2 cups • Red wine vinegar, 1/3cup • Chopped fresh basil, 1 cup (optional) Melt butter in a large wide frying pan set over medium-high heat. Sprinkle both sides of chops with salt and pepper then add to pan. Sear both sides, about 3 min. per side the place on a baking sheet. Add onions to pan (add more butter, if needed) and reduce heat to medium. Stir often, until onions are soft and golden, 10 to 12 minutes. Meanwhile, finish chops in preheated 450F oven, about 5 to 7 min., depending on their thickness. When onions are done, stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, 1 to 2 min. Increase heat to medium-high and add grapes and vinegar. Cover and cook until grapes start to break down, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in basil. To serve, arrange chops on a platter and spoon onion mixture overtop.

Rosemary roasted potatoes Melt butter in a large wide saucepan or Dutch oven set over medium heat. Add sage and shallots and a good pinch of salt. Stir until shallots are translucent, 5 min. Add garlic and stir until fragrant, about 30 sec. Pour in syrup and add pumpkin. Stir to coat, then pour in broth. Bring to a boil, then cover and reduce heat. Simmer until pumpkin is very soft, 15 to 18 min.

The smell of fragrant garlic and rosemary fills the house with autumnal aromas. Be sure to squeeze the garlic out of their roasty skins – they’re heavenly mashed over the spuds. Cont’d on the next page

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPT | OCTOBER 2009

• Yukon Gold potatoes, 6 to 8 • Garlic, 1 head, broken into cloves, unpeeled • Rosemary sprigs, 4 to 6 • Olive oil • Sea salt • Freshly ground pepper Peel potatoes, then cut into large chunks. Par-boil for 5 min, then drain. Spread on a large baking sheet and sprinkle with pinches of salt. Add garlic and rosemary sprigs. Generously drizzle with olive oil and toss to coat. Roast in preheated 450F oven until golden, about 30 min., stirring halfway through. Dish up with garlic and coarsely break up rosemary. Finish with more salt and grindings of pepper.

DARK GINGERBREAD ã|à{ PRESERVED PEARS

This is a spicy cake – not mouth-burning hot spices, but deep dark and aromatic, like the spice cupboard. Ice cream is a must. And if you don’t feel like bottling your own pear preserves (see recipe below) scout your local farmer’s market for a jar or two.

fine foods & a world of spices

organic o r g a n i c · ffair a i r ttrade r a d e · eethnic t h n i c · aartisan r t i s a n · llocal ocal w w w. e p i c u r e a n p a n t r y. c a 1034 1 0 3 4 Fort F o r t Street S t r e e t | 250·380·7654 2 5 0 · 3 8 0 · 7 6 5 4 | www.epicureanpantry.ca

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EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2009

• Unbleached white flour, 3 cups +2 tbsp • Ground ginger, 1 tbsp • Ground cinnamon, 1 tbsp • Ground allspice, 1 tsp • Salt, 1 tsp • Baking soda, 2 tsp • Organic unsalted butter, 1 cup, at room temperature • Dark brown sugar, 1 cup, packed • Large eggs, 2 • Fancy molasses, 675 g container, about 2 cups • Fresh ginger, grated, 1 heaping tbsp • Boiling water, 1 cup

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Line a 9X13-inch baking dish with parchment or coat with butter. Stir flour with ground ginger, cinnamon, allspice, salt and baking soda. Using an electric mixer, cream butter with sugar. Beat in eggs, one at a time, then molasses, then ginger. Pour in flour mixture. Using a wooden spoon, stir just until moistened. Then pour in boiling water and stir just until mixed. Scrape into dish and bake in centre of 350F oven until a cake tester inserted in centre comes out clean, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Cool completely before serving.

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Last chance for end of season’s fruit preserves! Bartlett or Packham’s are good choices but I just buy whatever is at the market. Double the recipe if you want a good stash. Makes 2 1L jars and1 500mL jar (weird, I know) • Water, 41/2 cups • Granulated sugar, 3 cups • Red wine vinegar, 1/2 cup • Peppercorns, 6 • Star Anise, 4 • Pears, 9 to 12 In a large saucepan, gently boil water with sugar, vinegar, peppercorns and star anise. Stir often to dissolve sugar. Boil for 5 minutes, then remove from heat. Sterilize jars and lids. Peel pears, then cut in half lengthwise. Scoop out and discard cores. Slice halves in half again. To prevent pears from discolouring, work quickly and place in a mixture of water and lemon juice. When all pears are prepared bring syrup back to a boil. Add half the pears and boil for 1 minute. Remove from heat and using a slotted spoon, carefully spoon pears into hot jars. Place syrup back on stove and bring to a boil, then add remaining pears and boil for 1 minute. Pack pears into jars, then pour boiling syrup overtop. Leave about 1/8-inch headroom at the top of each jar. Cover with sterilized lids and lightly tighten screw bands. Process in a boiling water bath for 20 minutes, then turn off heat. Let stand in water for 5 minutes, then carefully remove. Best to let sit at least a week to let flavours meld before eating. Store in a cool dark place up to 1 year.

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RASTA PASTA ã|à{ GOLDEN PUMPKIN SAUCE THIS MONTH’S SHOPPING BASKET RECIPE

The green, red and gold Rastafarian colours of this delectable Ital dish are the perfect compliment to the autumnal colours found in nature and in the fall harvest of multicoloured vegetables and herbs. To enhance the visuals, this recipe uses spinach (green), tomato (red) and semolina (gold) linguine. Although authentic Ital (a word derived from “vital”) cuisine is primarily vegan, prawns or other seafood would be delish in this dish. (Serves 2 to 4) Pumpkin Sauce • 1 tsp. coriander seeds, ground • 1 tsp. ground cumin • a handful of fresh basil leaves • a handful of fresh oregano • a handful of fresh thyme • 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper • 1/2 tsp. nutmeg • 1/2 tsp. allspice • 1/2 tsp. salt

• 1/8 cup olive oil • 1 small onion, diced • 2 cloves garlic, minced • 2 Tbsp. fresh gingerroot, minced • 1 green chile pepper, seeded and minced • 2 cups pumpkin flesh, diced • 1 cup vegetable stock • 1 cup coconut milk

In a large wok or sauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, ginger and chile and sauté 4-5 mins. Add pumpkin and stock to the pan and cook 15 to 20 minutes until the pumpkin is tender. Add coconut milk, coriander, cumin, basil, oregano, thyme, pepper, nutmeg, allspice and salt. Simmer 5 minutes. Place the mixture in a food processor and process until smooth. Set aside. Pasta and Veggies 5 oz linguine, using equal amounts of spinach, tomato and semolina linguine noodles. Cook pasta, drain and set aside. • 1/8 cup olive oil • 1 green bell pepper, cut in thin strips • 1 red bell pepper, cut in thin strips • 1 yellow bell pepper, cut in thin strips • 1/2 zucchini, cut in thin strips • 1/4 cup fresh corn kernels • 1 broccoli floret, broken into small pieces

In the same pan used for the pumpkin sauce, heat the oil over medium heat and sauté the peppers and zucchini while stirring for 5 minutes. Add corn and broccoli and sauté until they are tender. Pour the pumpkin sauce into the pan and stir to combine. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook for a minute or two. Add the cooked pasta and toss to combine.

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Pumpkin. These gorgeous orange orbs, with their abundance of delicious flesh and scrumptious nutritious seeds, are the epitome of fall harvest bounty. Use pumpkin or squash flesh to make Thai Peanut Pumpkin (or Squash) Soup. Saute chopped onions, celery, carrots, peanuts and grated gingerroot. Add cubed squash or pumpkin, a chopped, peeled and cored apple, and salt and pepper, and simmer until the vegetables are tender. Add vegetable broth and bring to a boil. Simmer on low for 20 minutes. Add a can of coconut milk. Puree in a food processor until smooth and reheat. Basil. There are so many types of basil and all are content to grow on a windowsill in your kitchen. This summer I grew African Blue Basil, which has purplish leaves and a camphor scent, and licorice-scented Thai Basil. Both plants will continue producing their fragrant, flavourful leaves through the fall. Oregano. This perennial, which grows abundantly in my garden, is a versatile herb that enhances everything from soup to scrambled eggs. Thyme. A touch of minty-lemony thyme makes gumbo, borscht, pate, polenta, and lamb taste terrific. Bell Peppers. Radiantly colourful, crisp and juicy, orange, green, purple, red and yellow B.C. peppers are a sweet treat either raw or cooked. Roasting peppers, by charring their skins under the broiler or over a gas flame, kicks their sweetness into overdrive. The tangy smokiness of roasted peppers is a spectacular addition to pizzas, salads, chevre and coulis. Fresh corn on the cob. Juicy, crunchy, and slathered with butter, fresh corn is an annual treat well worth the wait. Here is an easy method for removing kernels from corncobs. First, tear off the husks and pull off the silky hairs. Wash the cobs. Place a cob vertically on a cutting board with its flat end on the board and its pointy end up. Cut into one side of the cob with a sharp knife, using a sawing motion to remove the kernels. Be sure not to cut into the cob’s hard core. Repeat with the other three sides of each cob.

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www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2009

Cold Comfort Classics

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BAKE MAC

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• 1 pound ma • 32 saltine cr • 2 to 3 thick • 2 Tbsp butte • One 12-oz ti • 1 cup half-a • 1⁄2 cup whip • 1 cup chicke • 4 Tbsp butte • 2 cloves gar • 1⁄2 medium • 1/3 cup all-p • 2 Tbsp Dijon • 3⁄4 cup grat • 16 oz extra Cheddar)

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BAKED CREAMY MAC AND CHEESE

By Nathan Fong Photograhy Tracey Kusiewicz 30

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2009

This recipe Roasting. One crisp skinned • One 4 to 5 p • 5 cloves gar • 1 lemon, ha • 2 to 3 sprigs • 1 Tbsp olive • Sea salt and • 1⁄2 cup whit • 2 cups chick Preheat oven

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Sometimes, life can be a bit chilly. As the leaves start to turn and fall, the cooler weather and cooler economic climate can create a basic need for comfort food and more attention paid to the grocery bill. Here are four classic retro dishes redefined with a modern twist.

BEEF STEW ã|à{ BLACK OLIVES & ORANGES

BAKED CREAMY MAC AND CHEESE

TUSCAN SUN-DRIED TOMATO MEATLOAF

Everyone has a favourite pasta from their childhood. To me, it was a toss-up between homemade meatballs and spaghetti smothered in a slow-cooked tomato sauce or a creamy baked mac and cheese. Here, the recipe has been revamped to include a rich cream sauce enhanced by Dijon mustard and two favourite sharp cheeses topped with a crisp crumb and smoky bacon crust. Sinfully rich but certainly comforting. Serves 8.

I’ve always been a fan of a really good meatloaf, hot from the oven accompanied by buttery mashed potatoes and smothered with creamy mushroom gravy. Here, the classic has been stepped up with slight spice from fresh chorizo sausage and sun-dried tomatoes. Mashed potatoes will still look good on the plate! Serves 4 to 6.

• 1 pound macaroni or other small bite-sized pasta • 32 saltine crackers, crushed • 2 to 3 thick slices bacon, cut into 1⁄4-inch pieces (optional) • 2 Tbsp butter, melted • One 12-oz tin evaporated milk • 1 cup half-and-half cream • 1⁄2 cup whipping cream • 1 cup chicken broth • 4 Tbsp butter • 2 cloves garlic, minced • 1⁄2 medium onion, finely chopped • 1/3 cup all-purpose flour • 2 Tbsp Dijon mustard • 3⁄4 cup grated parmesan cheese • 16 oz extra sharp Cheddar cheese, grated (preferably white Cheddar)

• One 1 1/2-inch-thick slice of country-style bread, crust removed, cut into 1⁄2-inch dice • 3 to 4 Tbsp milk • 3⁄4 lb lean ground beef • 1⁄2 pound lean ground veal • 3⁄4 lb fresh medium chorizo sausage, casings removed • 3 large eggs • 1⁄2 cup chopped sun-dried tomato (soaked in oil), drained and coarsely chopped • 1 oz grated Parmesan cheese • 1 medium onion, finely chopped • 2 cloves garlic, finely minced • 3 to 4 fresh sage leaves, finely chopped • 1 Tbsp finely chopped fresh thyme • 1 Tbsp finely chopped basil • 2 Tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley • 2 Tbsp Worchestershire sauce • 1 1⁄2 tsp salt

Slow-braising brings out flavour and tenderizes inexpensive cuts of meat. With this renewed classic, the addition of oranges, olives and spices creates an aromatic Moroccan-style stew. Serve with hot steamed saffron basmati rice or couscous. Serves 4. • 6 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • 4 oz salt pork, cut into 1⁄2-inch dice • Sea salt • 3 lbs boneless beef chuck, cut into 2-inch cubes • 2 medium onions, quartered and peeled, root end intact • 10 lightly crushed garlic cloves • 2 large carrots, peeled and cut into 1⁄2-inch dice • 1 1⁄2 cups red wine • 1⁄2 cup beef stock • 2 large sprigs fresh thyme • 1/8 tsp nutmeg • 3 whole cloves • One 2-inch stick cinnamon • Three 1-by-2-inch strips orange zest (reserving rest of orange) • One 15-oz tin peeled whole tomatoes, drained (reserving liquid), coarsely chopped • 1 cup small black olives, such as Niçoise or Nyons • Thyme and flat leaf parsley

• 1⁄2 tsp freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add 1 Tbsp salt and add pasta; cook until al dente. Drain and immediately pour onto a large rimmed baking sheet to cool. Mix crackers, bacon and melted butter together and set aside. Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F. Combine milk, cream, whipping cream and chicken broth in a large pot and heat to simmer. Melt the 4 Tbsp of butter in a large casserole or heavy pot over medium heat. Add garlic and onion and sauté until soft. Whisk in flour and slowly add hot milk mixture all at once and continue to whisk until thick and bubbly, 3 to 4 minutes. Whisk in mustard and parmesan. Remove from heat and whisk in cheddar cheese until melted. Stir in pasta and season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a 13-by-9-inch baking pan. Top with cracker and bacon mixture and bake until bubbly, about 20 minutes.

SIMPLE ROAST CHICKEN This recipe is adapted from Barbara Kafka’s cookbook Roasting. One of my favourite meals is a perfect roast chicken; crisp skinned outside and succulent and moist inside. • One 4 to 5 pound fresh free-range chicken • 5 cloves garlic, peeled • 1 lemon, halved • 2 to 3 sprigs rosemary and/or fresh thyme • 1 Tbsp olive oil • Sea salt and freshly ground pepper • 1⁄2 cup white wine • 2 cups chicken stock Preheat oven to 500°F. (Make sure your oven is clean.)

Heat oven to 325°F. In a large mixing bowl, moisten the bread cubes with the milk. Add the beef, veal and sausage and mix well. Add the rest of the ingredients and mix well to incorporated. Line a large loaf pan with foil, leaving a couple of inches of extra foil over the top of the pan. Form the meat mixture into a loaf and press into the loaf pan, letting the extra foil press gently against the top exposed surface. Place into preheated oven and bake for 40 to 45 minutes or until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the centre registers 155°F. Bring back covered foil the last 15 minutes to brown top. Let the meat loaf rest in the pan 10 minutes before slicing.

Rinse chicken and pat dry. Place garlic, lemon halves and herbs in the cavity and truss with string to close tight with the drumsticks. Brush olive oil over whole chicken and season with salt and freshly ground pepper and place into a deep-sided roasting pan. Place in the preheated oven. After 20 minutes, take a wooden spoon and shake the chicken loose to keep from sticking to the bottom of the roasting pan. Roast for another 30 to 40 minutes or until the skin is goldenbrown and juices are clear when a knife is inserted into the chicken. Remove chicken from pan and set aside on warm serving platter. Add roasting pan to stove top and remove as much grease as possible from pan drippings. Heat to medium-high and deglaze with white wine, scraping all the brown bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the chicken stock and stir. Reduce by half and serve jus with chicken.

In a large heavy casserole or Dutch oven with a tight fitting lid, heat 3 Tbsp of the olive oil over medium heat and cook the diced salt pork until golden. Using a slotted spoon, remove the salt pork and set aside. Salt the beef generously. Raise the heat to medium-high and, cooking in two batches, brown the beef all over, 10 to 12 minutes per batch, reducing heat if necessary. Transfer meat to a plate and set aside. Remove all but 4 Tbsp of the fat from the pot and return heat to medium high. If not enough fat, add olive oil. Cook the onion quarters until deep brown on one side. Turn the onions, trying to keep together, and brown on another side. Add the crushed garlic cloves and carrots and sauté, stirring occasionally, until the garlic starts to colour. Add the wine and simmer for 2 minutes, scraping the bottom of the pan to loosen any brown bits. Add the stock, thyme, nutmeg, cinnamon, salt pork and 1⁄2 tsp salt. Stick a clove to each of the orange zest pieces and add them to the pot. Add the tomatoes and olives and stir to mix. Return the meat and any accumulated juices to the pot and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low, cover, maintaining at a simmer, until the meat is nearly tender, about 3 hours. Taste the stock: if you cannot detect the flavour of the orange, stir in the juice of the reserved orange, a bit at a time, until the flavour of the juice is noticeable. Cover and cook on simmer until the meat is tender, 30 to 45 minutes more. Remove from heat at stir in olives. Garnish with chopped thyme and parsley. MORE COMFORT FOOD REDEFINED: Check out Nathan’s recipe for Spiced Pot Roast. Look for it in the Recipe Box on www.EatMagazine.ca

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPT | OCTOBER 2009

VANCOUVER

LOCAL ON ALL LEVELS John Bishop was Vancouver’s trail-blazer of the farm-to-table movement when he hooked up

with friend and farmer, the late Gary King of Surrey’s Hazelmere Organics, almost 20 years ago. Growers since then have followed King’s lead in farming sustainably, enabling more and more restaurants to draw from an ever-increasing pool of fresh, local ingredients. Tiny bistros may choose to source almost all local. Larger, commercial restaurants can include on their menus naturally raised meat, fresh fish, house-made bread (from local grains), organic greens and veggies, and artisanal cheeses. At every level, we all benefit from food that is healthier, more sustainable, more creative, more diverse, and, of course, delicious.

Chain Re

Local, seasonal, artisanal and organic has become today’s gastronomic mantra. Yet like a mantra, it’s more than just words. It has come to represent a food philosophy that revolves around taking more responsibility for what we eat. A whole lot of people—home cooks, professional chefs, culinary journalists and mainstream media, the green gang and just plain folk—want to know where their food is coming from, how it gets from sea to stove, from gate to plate. Julie Pegg spoke with one proprietor and two chefs from three very different establishments and witnessed how far-reaching the farm-to-table philosophy has become.

CHEF CH CENTER LOCAL P

Small Bistro Pair Bistro | 3763 W. 10th Ave. | 604-224-7211 | www.pairbistro.ca Todd Hodgins grew up with the orchard and the farm as his playground. He’s been a “sourcerer” of local ever since. In 2005, when he and wife Janis launched Pair Bistro, his passion carried through to a full-on B.C. menu, right down to the water, wine and the walls displaying local art. “The driving force behind the menu was the all-B.C. wine list,” says Todd. Add to that “Vancouver Island thinking,” which in the last years has spawned so much organic produce and owes a great deal, he believes, to Bill Jones and Deerholme Farm.

Fine Dining

Tracey Kusiewicz

l: WAPITI ELK MEDALLIONS r: CHEF TODD HODGINS AT PAIR Todd admits it’s not always easy to go all B.C. all the time. “You seldom get a day off,” he says as we chat over spot prawns, served simply with butter and lemon and just-from-theoven bannock. Todd heads to Granville Island for buying within the seasons, seafood in particular; then it’s over to UBC Farm for produce and veggies. As well, the couple are in solid cahoots with game farmers (he doesn’t reveal who) to guarantee a steady supply. (“If we lifted the Wapiti elk medallions and Peace Region bison burger from the menu we’d have to close.”) “We’re so lucky to have a keen staff who support our commitment to staying local. Currently, Alex Murray “is head of the plates,” while Jeffrey Wyndham, who knows a thing or two about B.C. wines, manages front of house. All this is made possible because the place is small and the couple’s family were such an enormous help. Sadly Janis’s father, who lent a strong hand in building the bistro, died just prior to its opening. Todd’s father, canner and pickler of the restaurant’s preserves, passed away recently after a lengthy illness. Todd and Janis miss them and their contributions terribly. Still, they avoid taking shortcuts, continuing, for instance, to smoke salmon on site. Todd professes the demand for a larger or second Pair location. “We’ve outgrown ourselves,” he says, “But the upside of more space means more buying power and an opportunity to source even more local product, which remains, absolutely, our mandate.” Pair is definitely the little bistro that could.

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2009

Diva at the Met | 645 Howe St., Vancouver | 604-602-7788 Last fall tough economic times forced Jeff Van Geest, one of Vancouver’s more respected chefs, to lock the doors on Main Street’s tiny Aurora Bistro, where, like Todd Hodgins, he had come to know local growers and treated guests to B.C.’s finest bounty. Now Van Geest finds fewer occasions to mingle with farmers as executive sous chef of Diva at the Met. In such instances Jeff selects from Biovia's Mobile Market. (Biovia is a top-notch Vancouver-based wholesaler that deals only with BC organic growers. www.biovia ). Make no bones about it, though, Van Geest continues to have a firm “in” with local farmers and, by gum, he sure knows what to do with their produce. Van Geest brought to Diva a staunch commitment to staying “fresh and sustainable” (and a stash of his own smoked Berkshire pork). A good-sized kitchen, state-of-the art equipment and buying power afford Van Geest the opportunity to marry his mastery with local ingredients to sophisticated dining. What could be more elegant and fresh than a spring mushroom and chèvre agnolotti, wild morels, salsify, tender asparagus, pea shoots and leeks with foamed ginger milk? On my visit, I tuck into Mission's Hannabrook Farm micro-greens encased in a red-fife wheat tulle and complemented by a splash of vinaigrette made with green walnut vinegar from Langley’s Vista D’Oro Farms and a shaving of Farmhouse Cheddar from Agassiz. I follow that with a heavenly Queen Charlotte halibut filet poached sous-vide. Van Geest is chuffed about everything on the plate: the tangy excellence of Farmhouse Cheese; the uniqueness of Vista D’Oro green walnuts; the superior quality and lengthy season for B.C. halibut. The guy’s passion is palpable. Van Geest pays enormous tribute to Gary King in influencing the “going local” philosophy. The work of this talented chef is also a testament to the fact that fine dining doesn’t necessarily mean fancy imports.

Tracey Kusiewicz

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Joeys | five locations in B.C. | www.joeysmedgrill.com A few years ago Joey Tomato’s, a ho-hum pizza and pasta place, rebranded and dropped the “tomato.” Joeys resurfaced as a slick, chic, casual fine dining chain with a sleek wine program to match. Chef Chris Mills (ex-Diva at the Met) came onboard as Joeys’ executive chef and heads up the test kitchen for all locations. He tries to put fresh, seasonable and sustainable produce on the menu whenever possible. “For an outfit like Joeys,” says Mills, “that demands a strong relationship between restaurant and supplier, and we have an edge on commercial dining when it comes to sourcing fresh and local.” That edge comes in the form of Brad Bellmann, a Joeys chef from 1999 to 2005. From April to late-November, Bellmann and wife Jen operate the intensely planted 33-acre Bellman’s Specialty Produce (“I’m going to buy a farm and grow stuff for Joeys,” said Brad on leaving Joeys in Calgary). Now his Armstrong, B.C. farm supplies 15 locations, from Vancouver to Winnipeg. Mills and Brad put their heads together every November, review the past year to see what worked and what didn’t. The two then plot the next year’s produce needs for all Joeys locations. Since Brad is a chef by trade, he can forecast pretty closely and plant accordingly. In a brief phone conversation, Jen tells me that they “start with spring asparagus and switch up as the seasons progress to greens, onions, squash and so forth. Our heirloom tomatoes are bar-none,” she’s quick to add. (My Brandywine and bocconcini salad with fresh basil proves the accuracy of her words.) Mills would love to source “local” year round but confesses it’s a challenge with a large chain. “But I’m determined to stay as sustainable and seasonal as possible.” When not prepping menus or manning the restaurant stove, Hodgins, Van Geest and Mills grow their own edibles and feed the family with “good stuff.” First on the itinerary when travelling is to seek out markets, local products and like-minded eateries. On site they run their kitchens without a whole lot of fanfare or fanaticism. Practicing farm-to-table is simply a way of life for these local food-loving guys, both in and away from their restaurants.

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www.eatmagazine.ca SEPT | OCTOBER 2009

What

Vancouver sure knows how to throw open the door on new restaurants. A perfect July evening ushered in around six hundred industry folk into Coast's swish new location. (1054 Alberni Street). On the patio server guys shucked perfect Kushis and server gals poured fizz readying the crowd for the soiree inside, where wine and cocktails flowed. And oh! The food-- Cappuccino-sized Manhattan and New England chowders at the circular bar, and to whet the whistle a spicy Caesar garnished with a crunchy jumbo prawn in the “O Lounge”; One floor up jumbo prawns reappeared groaning under the weight of a display of fresh seafood in the “Captain's Quarters”. Wasn't that a party! Kudos to the servers, who kept up a tough game throughout.

A sizeable cre 26th. Chef Ro 250.338.649 for a descriptio rich part of the feasted on Co pork, chicken, showcase for pany [861 Sh ery [Greaves Vineyard [65 to tears: “It’s a – Bring it on C In the mean Campbell Rive Island Highwa They’ve renam come in for dr to the Angler www.dolphins packages.” In Street in Como the bakery ge guests....hmmm tender Freddy bistro.ca] real that I get – mo ter). In Courtena nary Studio [l www.triaculina a few blueber Farm), and Ge ican Restaura recently, retain Stuffed Planta with a broad s copious amou Pizza (it got b in Nanaimo w and husband, cently the Pie Fitzgerald Ave a long Septe patio/blender the Valley’s fr cille Doucet a www.lapauseb With the he House Resta glory years, s Atlas Café [2 “people page this place the Over the su answer. Allyso ree Thai Cuis “wonderful sp 8868; and alt choice at The 336-8831]. T @hanspeterme

The Refinery (1155 Granville), and the Edge Social Grill and Lounge (1100 Granville) are the newest additions to the Granville facelift. The Refinery owes its country store chic to reclaimed lumber, enviro-friendly wood-like materials, and Farrow and Ball earth tones. Plates, meant to share, extend beyond charcuterie-and-cheese theme with smoked salmon, ahi-tuna, Mediterranean dips, antipasti, and market fresh salads. Unable to attend the media opening I popped in later midst wall-towall revelry--wonderfully handled by General Manager Lauren Mote who juggled greeting, schmoozing and polishing glasses, all the time ensuring “things ran smoothly”. Amidst the din the kitchen kept minimenu circulating. (I swear I devoured at least three of the terrific beef and cheddar with house made piccalilli). Mote, who’s a Cracker Jack barLauren Mote w/ her housemade bitters, syrups & tender, whipped up a mean salts. L’epice Verte & Shandy cocktails. Bourbon Sour. A spontaneous (and anonymous) follow-up visit with buds passed the service/quality test with flying colours. Be advised. Laughter and chatter ricochet about the walls particularly there’s a cheery group at the communal table. Best to hunker down in the more subdued space above the street if you prefer sotto voce. Nary had the Refinery put away it’s last goblet, than The Edge Social Grille and Lounge (1100

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2009

Tracey Kusiewicz

What’s happening in VANCOUVER ? Granville) treated the industry to the100-seat patio a sleek and spacious interior and a terrific nosh. (Chicken lollipops got big sticky thumbs up). Opened from 7-am to 2-am the pan-global menu offers something for everyone from Irish bacon and eggs with caramelized onions, (Hmmm-wonder if they turn the breakfast clock ahead for post mid-night ramblers) to wok-chili squid to gussied up comfort food like truffled mac and cheese. FYI for the imbiber, the booze menu is longer than the bar. **** Diamond in the Rough …And more eateries contribute to the revitalization of Gastown. I’ve yet to sip or savour the combined talents of Mark Brand, Josh Pape (Chambar alumni) or Sophie Taverna (ex-Cascade). Chances are excellent, I’d say, that this trio will do just fine, thank you very much with “Diamond” (6 Powell Street-overlooking Gassy Jack Square). Influenced by their Oriental travels, the menu is, well, Asianthemed. Word on the street is that gyozas and chicken-and-duck sandwich are a must try. Brand, who like Mote, whizzes up superb cocktails (I know, I’ve tried a few) will mix to match the food I’m sure. I plan to pop in sooner rather than later. Look for my comments on twitter or editor@www.eatmagazine.ca Unlike the theater, it’s tough to predict a restaurant’s run on opening night. With as many restaurants folding as flourishing, we hope these “dos” weren’t for naught. At the outset all looks promising. EAT certainly hopes “they break a leg”. — by Julie Pegg

top: Mark Brand holding a “treacle”, Josh Pape with a “bicicletta” and Sophie Taverner with a “Pegu Club”. bottom left : Pickled beets bottom right: Betel leaves & salmon, tobiko, preserved lemon, ginger & kaffir lime

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What’s happening in COMOX VALLEY ? A sizeable crew got a preview of how pleasurable it is to enjoy the harvest and “eat local” on July 26th. Chef Ronald St. Pierre and the crew at Locals restaurant [364-8th Street, Courtenay 250.338.6493, www.localscomoxvalley.com] hosted a Table Champêtre (check the Locals blog for a description of what this is and why Chef Ronald wants to make this a regular thing in this foodrich part of the Island) at Tannadice Farms [3465 Burns Road, www.tannadicefarms.com]. We feasted on Cortez Island oysters, Little Qualicum scallops, Black Creek veggies, Courtenay pork, chicken, and beef, (to name a few of the many local producers featured – it was a great showcase for local food product) and toasted it all with libations from Surgenor Brewing Company [861 Shamrock Place, Comox 250.339.9947 www.surgenorbrewing.ca], Bluemoon Winery [Greaves Crescent, Courtenay 250-338-9765 www.bluemoonwinery.ca], and Averill Creek Vineyard [6552 North Rd, Duncan 250-709-9986 www.averillcreek.ca]. A friend was moved to tears: “It’s all so beautiful and delicious!” I’m looking forward to what this team does in 2010 – Bring it on Chef Ronald! In the meantime, fall is a great time to be eating pretty much anywhere in the Comox Valley Campbell River region. In Willow Point, former manager at The Tasting Room [#4 - 2253 South Island Highway] Michelle Mustvedt just bought the business with her husband Jonathan Adamo. They’ve renamed it Jonny’s Bar & Lounge and are creating a “lounge type feel,” inviting folks to come in for drinks, sushi rolls, and appetizers. It’s a beautiful space – I’ll be stopping in on my way to the Angler's Dining Room at Dolphins Resort [4125 Discovery Drive 1-800-891-0287 / www.dolphinsresort.com] where new Executive Chef Steve Lopez is hosting fall “specialty dining packages.” In Comox, Carol Spencer of Wild Flour Organic Artisan Bakery [221A Church Street in Comox [250-890-0017, www.wildflourorganicbakery.com] is helping the new owners of the bakery get into the swing of things. She’s also organized some fall cooking classes a mystery guests....hmmm... Down the road, the kitchen has been delivering consistently great food, and bartender Freddy confirmed that Avenue Bistro [2064 Comox Ave, 250-890-9200 www.avenuebistro.ca] really is THE PLACE I want to practice my new-found b-tending skills. (I also think it’s cool that I get – more or less – regular postings about “fresh sheet” times from @avenuebistro on twitter). In Courtenay, Kathy Jerritt is seeing great success with her first “full moon dinners” at Tria Culinary Studio [located at Natures Way Farm 4905 Darcy Road 250-338-9765 @triaculinary / www.triaculinarystudio.ca]. Full disclosure: I do some work for these folks, and my son has picked a few blueberries for the farm – and I think that the trio of Kathy, Marla Limousin (Natures Way Farm), and George Ehrler (Bluemoon Winery) are doing amazing things. Heather at Tita’s Mexican Restaurant [536-6th Street, Courtenay 250.334.8033] tells me the menu’s been revamped recently, retaining lots of old faves, and introducing new items like local Halibut Tacos and Cheese Stuffed Plantain Slices in Mole sauce, for example. Most items are now served as “small plates” with a broad selection of side dishes to choose from for big appetites. As always at this time of year, copious amounts of fruit from the patio garden inspire ever-changing margaritas. I miss Orbitz Pizza (it got burned out – literally – and owner/chef Marty Campbell is doing interesting things in Nanaimo with good food and ...bowling?), so I’m very happy to hear that Shelley Bouchard and husband, “Mad Chef” Kevin Munroe (formerly of the Kingfisher, Atlas Cafe, and most recently the Pier Pub & Bistro), are opening the Mad Chef Cafe at the old Orbitz location [492 Fitzgerald Avenue]. Their slogan: "...insane food...with attitude..." Chef Steve Dodd is counting on a long September summer as he invites all and sundry to check out the first-come-first-serve patio/blender combos at Bisque [14th and Cliffe Ave. 250-334-8564). Nightly specials highlight the Valley’s freshest products, tastes, and spirits. The pitch to "gourmands" by David Innes & Lucille Doucet at La Pause Bed & Breakfast [540 Salsbury Road, Courtenay 1-866-703-4725 www.lapausebb.com] piques my interest in being a tourist in my own town. With the help of the new co-owners Chef Drew Noble is creating a bit of a stir at the “new” Old House Restaurant [1760 Riverside Lane, Courtenay 250.338.5406] . Menu homages to the glory years, special wine events, and cooking classes – I’m looking forward to a real taste test. Atlas Café [250-6th Street, Courtenay 250.338.9838] has just revamped its website, with a “people page” featuring some of the many wonderful characters (staff and customers) who make this place the standard by which I judge other eateries. Over the summer, when it got really, really hot, one local foodie suggested hot (spicy) food as answer. Allyson Hamilton told me (@hammygirl) that her local faves are: Drunken Prawn at Kinaree Thai Cuisine [526A Cumberland Road, 250-898-8639] (she always ask for "really hot"); the “wonderful spicy” Thai soups at Pho Maple Noodle [11-468 29th Street, Courtenay 250-3388868; and although she hasn’t “met a dish [she] didn't like,” the Chicken Vindaloo is her current choice at The Great Escape [2744 Dunsmuir Street, www.greatescape-cumberland.com, 250336-8831]. Thanks Allyson. You can keep me up to date on your new food finds with a tweet to @hanspetermeyer. —by Hans Peter Meyer

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www.eatmagazine.ca SEPT | OCTOBER 2009

What’s happening in NANAIMO ? If you are a foodie, is there a more perfect place on this planet to live than Vancouver Island? I think not. And if you are a lover of fresh fish, you can swoon and croon about the abundance and variety of sea critters swimming about in these here parts. Warrant Sea Drift Fish Company [two locations: #1-1559 Estevan Road, Greater Terminal Park Mall, Nanaimo, Tel: 250-754-4913 or # 401-5800 Turner Road, Northridge Village Mall, Nanaimo, Tel: 250-758-7151). Barb and Dave Ernst started Sea Drift over 30 years ago and have netted a sea trawler full of loyal fishy customers. If it has a fin, claw or bivalve they have it, and most of it is sourced from local fisherpersons. They also have a secret weapon in Carole Selinger who is the Goddess of Chowder. Six days a week, Carole and her trusty 40-liter cauldron get together to produce sumptuous soups such as Garlic Lovers, Curried Shrimp and Seafood Chowder. Everything in-store is take-away (no eatin facilities) including an impressive collection of high-end specialty food items such as Dean & Dulca spices, sauces, mustards and other slather-able things to go along with your sea treasures. St. Jean’s Cannery is not news, but for those of you who only know their tasty canned products such as tuna, salmon & oysters, it is a whole new world at the processing plant [242 Southside Drive, Nanaimo, Tel: 250-754-2185] and it is worth a visit. Many savvy fisher-folk get St. Jean’s to pack and process their catch, turning what they have hauled into the boat into tinned-triumph. But St. Jean’s also sell smoked fish which has been cured and slow-smoked over natural hardwood and then vac-sealed for easy shipping or storage. Their Cajun hot-smoked or peppercorn hot-smoked salmon and tuna are big on blowing the rafters off your taste buds, and damned fine on fresh baguette, with thinly-sliced red onion, a slosh of lemon and an ice cold beer. Ya baby! Vancouver Island University is getting stoked about their new, on campus, wood-fired brick baking oven. Built to augment the skills and techniques of students in VIU’s Culinary Art’s baking program, the plan is to bake bread in the morning and thin crust pizza in the afternoon. Martin Barnett, program chairman, says the oven can crank-it to 530C using briquettes from a local sawmill and off-cuts from VIU’s carpentry program, thus creating a carbon-neutral method of baking. To date, you have to get your fix in the cafeteria at the university (closed in the summer and during holidays), but if the program is a success, there are expansion plans. Hello carb-lovers, this loaf could be for you! If they can also produce a good Margarita pizza reminiscent of Naples, book me a table now. Speaking of incredible bread, two hunks on Gabriola Island are conjuring up some island voodoo with their dough. Paul & Dimitri of Slow Rise Organic Bakery have hand-built a woodfired oven that looks like an escape pod from the USS Enterprise with engineering tips from Hobbits. Their breads, scones and cookies are only available on Gabriola at The Village Food Market, Silva Bay General Store and Artworks except, if you are lucky, and get there on time, the Wednesday Nanaimo Farmers’ Market on Bowen Road (open until mid-October). The name of this new pho joint in Nanaimo makes me laugh. Someone clever noodled this one up. Pho Boi [#108-6596 Applecross Road, Nanaimo, Tel: 250-933-0071] is located in a new multi-unit development called Georgia View Village, across the street from Urban Beet (love the Beet!) It serves traditional Vietnamese fare and does a good job of it too. Just go in knowing that they like their MSG so epicurious emptor. In this same complex of new stores, Man Lee Oriental Foods has opened a second, much larger all-Asian food store [104-6596 Applecross Road, Nanaimo, Tel: 250-390-3938]. Each aisle is organized by country so you can wheel through Japan, Malaysia, China, Thailand et al to source hard-to-find items to rock your wok. —by Su Grimmer

Nanaimo’s Best Gourmet Deli…

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EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2009

Elizabeth Levinson has done it again. Combing the sideroads and main streets of Vancouver Island and surrounding islands, she sifts like a miner for nuggets of local epicurean gold for her third edition of An Edible Journey: Exploring the islands’ fine food, farms and vineyards. Her true commitment to small scale, independent artisans and a knack for reviewing in a manner that invites the reader in, make for a valuable guide book. An active Slow Food member with a nose for the best ingredients, Levinson leads us by the hand through Victoria’s Choux Choux Charcuterie, Cobble Hill’s Blue Grouse Vineyards, Denman Island’s chocolate factory, Tofino’s 600 Degrees bakery, and many more memorable stops. Any local will want to keep this book on hand for road trips, visiting friends, or to stay on top of our growing regional culinary scene. As Sinclair Phillips (co-owner of Sooke Harbour House) writes in the introduction, “If we frequent the restaurants, markets and suppliers recommended in this book, we support a community of local producers as well as the preservation of agricultural land.” We also support a fine writer who works hard to trumpet the efforts of our local farmers and producers and reveal to us the treasures in our own backyard. Available at fine bookstores around BC.

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More than 40 wineries from Argentina Thursday, October 1st, 2009 7 - 9.30 pm Sutton Place Hotel 845 Burrard Street Vancouver, BC Tickets: $59 Available through www.winesofargentina.ca

www.winesofargentina.org Many thanks to the Consul General of Argentina for their support Partial proceeds to the BC Children’s Hospital Foundation

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPT | OCTOBER 2009

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What’s happening in VICTORIA ?

Wha

Autumn sees the branching out of some established eateries in Victoria. Stroll the streets of Oak Bay and you’ll discover the new Discovery Coffee. Family owned and operated, their original site at 664 Discovery Street is a cozy, vibrant hub. As one of Victoria’s most beloved brew stops for serious bean aficionados, the second chapter on the other end of town is a welcome addition. Little Piggy Bakeshop and Catering is also reaching into new neighbourhoods with its new location in Fernwood on Gladstone Avenue. The second shop holds a bakery, restaurant, and storefront full of sweet and savoury pastries, breads, and meals to stay or go. Also new for this Little Piggy is the delicious Island Bison and their Ocean Wise certification. Cook Street Village’s food court has thus far relied upon the Ethiopian, Thai, and Sushi food stands, but has recently expanded to include a Bubble Tea shop, a smoothie stand, fish and chips, Jesse’s Grill for burgers, and more. The folks at FoodRoots have been hard at work making it easier to find local and organic produce in Victoria. As well as adding in a new pocket market in the hub of downtown at Government and Fisgard (Sundays 11 to 4:30pm), they’ve introduced the Fruit Loop; by setting up an account on their Food Roots website at www.foodroots.ca, you see what’s being offered in bulk fruit on a pre-order basis for pick-up at the warehouse at Hillside between Rock Bay and Government. Meanwhile the Moss St. Market (which pitches its last stand October 31st, so stock up on local vegetables while you can) has been participating in the Farmer’s Market Nutrition Coupon Project in partnership with the Victoria Native Friendship Centre. The program increases access to fresh BC farm products for low-income pregnant women and low-income families with children. The Victoria Native Friendship Centre takes it a step further by offering Cooking and Skill building programs that make use of BC ingredients. Truly a ‘teach a man to fish’ project. Another stellar program happening in Victoria is the “Christmas in July” food drive. When not in the Christmas season, food bank donations can taper off and this year, with the economy at a low point, local food banks reported a greater need than usual. Initiated by the Victoria Real Estate Board, an off-season campaign has brought in roughly $2,000 in goods for families in need. The back-to-school season is upon us and it’s not just for kids. The University of Victoria’s Sustainable Gastronomy courses are offered for those who love to learn about food. Camille’s Chef David Mincey will instruct a delicious course on chocolate appreciation and local food journalist Don Genova lead students through Exploring Local Foods. Intro to Sustainable Gastronomy and Food and Spirituality round out the program. To register, visit www.uvcs.uvic.ca. Also at UVic, a new initiative called Food University Network (FUN), is revamping the gastronomic scene on campus. Projects include a weekly pocket market at the Student Union Building and partnering with local organic farms to supply local, seasonal, and organic snacks for students. FUN is also working on offering cooking classes and workshops to educate students on healthy and sustainable food choices. For the younger crowd, there’s never been a better time to plant the seed of a schoolground garden. Elementary school teachers can contact LifeCycles Project Society to participate in their Growing Schools project. LifeCycles offers a successful model for schools to plant gardens on school grounds, educating kids about food security, urban agriculture, the environment, community development, and health. Their model curriculum supports the Learning Outcomes of the Ministry Education and takes children through a year-long gardening cycle —plus they get to eat the fruits of their labour. At this time of year, LifeCycles Fruit Tree Project is in full swing; this year they celebrate their tenth anniversary. With a few volunteers and a couple of ladders, apple, pear, quince, and other fruit trees that would otherwise go un-picked are harvested and shared among homeowners, volunteers, food banks, and community organizations. Visit lifecyclesproject.ca and click on Fruit Tree Project to register a tree or become a volunteer. Raise a glass to Brentwood Bay’s Church and State Winery for being honoured with the Lieutenant Governor’s Award of Excellence in British Columbia Wines. This award “recognizes and honours excellence in wines made from 100% British Columbian grown grapes and produced within the province.” —Katie Zdybel

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Tuesday ~ Saturday | dinner from 5pm paprika-bistro.com | 2524 Estevan Ave. | Victoria 38

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2009

For more news visit www.eatmagazine.ca NEWS•EVENTS•BULLETINS•RECIPES•WINES

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What’s happening in TOFINO ? After another successful Tofino Food and Wine Festival kicking off the start to summer, I have to say that this year was an exceptionally outstanding showcase of local culinary talents, Vancouver Island purveyors and British Columbia wines (microbreweries and ciderhouse). Some of the food highlights from Grazing In the Gardens include fresh baked breads by Jules Lomenda of Six Hundred Degrees Bakery (Tofino) paired with Hilary’s Cheese from Cowichan Bay (‘Miele’ had guests talking non stop), Fetch’s (Black Rock Hotel) Grilled BBQ Pork Sandwich, Spotted Bear’s Tuna Tartar, The Pointe’s Sloping Hills Fennel and Chilli Banger and Sobo’s Ceviche. Special guests from North Island include Edgar and Mary Ann Smith of Natural Pastures Cheese (Comox) and Kathy & Victor McLaggan of Outlandish Shellfish Guild (Cortes Island). Newcomers this year included Rockey Creek Winery (Cowichan Valley), Road 13 Vineyard (Oliver) and Township 7 (Langley). Take a look at the EAT website as we’ve p[osted a few photos from the day. The week leading up to the festival involves dining out at all of my local favourites (as I am so busy preparing for the big weekend!); SoBo, Wildside Grill, Schooner Restaurant, Spotted Bear Bistro, The Pointe Restaurant and Shelter Restaurant. All of these places will be in full swing with fresh summer menus, for the summer season in Tofino. Tuff Beans is open Thursday – Sunday for family friendly Pizza Night (locals appreciation night is Thursdays). Menu includes flatbread pizzas, soups, salads and paninis. A great place for people watching from the patio, Tuff Beans makes great coffee (Kicking Horse) as well. Located on the corner of Campbell Street and Fourth Street. Green Soul Organics, Tofino’s health food store, located in the heart of downtown Tofino is newly owned and operated by Morgan Callison (formerly Hungry Bear Naturals). Callison is carrying as much local products as possible, from the west coast as well as the rest of Vancouver Island. Suppliers include Medicine Farm (greens, herbs), Nanoose Edibles (greens, herbs, organic produce), Lori’s Farm (free range chicken products), Clayoqout Botanicals (herbal teas, herbal tinctures, herbal salves), Sea Wench Naturals (eco-friendly cleaning supplies, skin & beauty products). (Corner of Fourth Street and Campbell Street - across from Tuff Beans) Six Hundred Degrees Bakery, specializing in organic naturally leavened breads, uses fresh milled and ground flour from La Boulange Bakery (692 Bennett Road Qualicum Beach 250 752 0077), as well as sea salt from Antarctic Pure Sea Salt, provided by The Galthering Place, a small family business, from Cortes Island, importing high end teas and sea salt. Six Hundred Degrees bread and other delicious baked goods can be found at Tofino’s Public Market (Saturdays in the Village Green, 10am – 2pm), Green Soul Organics and Beaches Grocery. Over in Ucluelet, Norwoods Restaurant (1714 Peninsula 250 726 7001) is getting great reviews, great BC wine list and many return guests. Ukee Dogs is also worth checking out for some homemade meat pies and other great pastries, and of course a wide selection of gourmet dogs. (1576 Imperial Lane 250 726 2103) — by Kira Rogers

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WINES www.eatmagazine.ca SEPT | OCTOBER 2009

Smitty’s Oyster House | 645 School Road Wharf | Lower Gibsons, B.C. | 604-886-HOOK (4665) | www.smittysoysterhouse.com – by Julie Pegg In 2005, John Smith, owner of Gibsons Marina, tossed Stafford Lumley, owner of Rodney’s Oyster Bar in Yaletown, the keys to the marina’s unused chandlery building with the words “do what you want with it.” Lumley did. The young father of three, who had married a local girl, sold Rodney’s, moved nearer the grandparents and turned the chandlery into Smitty’s Oyster House. In an area dense with unremarkable eateries, it seemed oysters were right for the picking.

TRULY REMARKABLE

CHARACTER: A five-minute drive from the Langdale ferry leads you to a set of rough-hewn stairs, the smell of the sea and Smitty’s cedar-plank deck with its 27-foot-long polished spruce “picnic” table. Inside, whitewashed brick, natural wood and cushion-covered benches feel oh-so dockside. A bar/counter rivals the outside table in length. A New Orleans-style wrought iron railing spans the 10-seat mezzanine.

WE DO WHAT WE LOVE. YOU'LL LOVE WHAT WE DO.

Hester Creek Estate Winery and Villa Wine Shop open daily at 10:00 am Road #8, just South of Oliver, BC

CREW: Lumley, with partner and buddy Shawn Divers, sails a smooth ship. They bob behind the counter to pour drinks, steam clams and mussels or turn up the heat on chowders (creamy white or tomatoey red) and crab soup. Chef Connor Lowe captains a neat-as-a-pin crew in the open kitchen. COOKING: Lumley sources only the west coast’s best when it comes to oysters. Savary Island clams and Salt Spring mussels bathe in herb- or shallot-infused white wine, accompanied by crusty bread. Halibut bought in fletches (large fillets—four to a fish) is cut in-house. Landlubbers can opt for the top-notch local lamb burger. Sides include baby greens, spinach salad tumbled with strawberries and goat cheese, house-cut Idaho or sweet-potato fries.

A Sense of Place. OLD VINES RESTAURANT & PATIO 11:30 am to 9 pm daily Sunday Brunch 10:30 am to 2:30 pm

WINESHOP 9:30 am to 7 pm - June to October Reserve online at quailsgate.com 250-769-4451

2nd Annual Quails’ Gate Harvest Fair Saturday, September 12th | 11 am to 3 pm

Okanagan Fall Wine Festival

Winemakers Dinner | Friday, October 2nd Lumière in the Okanagan | Thursday, October 8th

MUST HAVES: Oysters! Firm, salty summer ices are trickled in green-apple/shallot mignonette. Or, if available, Olympias, whose celery-salt and metallic flavour is best enjoyed naked. Did I mention the superb mussels, clams and halibut? Then there are goldengrilled diver scallops, mahi-mahi lettuce wraps … Ideally, round up a few folk, sidle up to the bar or picnic table, order a few brews and share. DRINK: Vancouver’s R&B Raven Cream Ale on tap slakes a mean thirst. And how better to chase an oyster than with a Guinness? Raimat Chardonnay/Albarino and Joie’s Noble Blend are shellfish-perfect partners. Three Pinot Noirs top the red-wine list for those who prefer red. Now’s your chance. Down an oyster, with, say, a wee dram of clean, malty Dalwhinnie from the nice little Scotch list.

WINE PICKS

Natalie King, Director of Food & Beverage at The Sidney Pier Hotel and Spa sends us this recommendation

Foxtrot Pinot Noir 2005 "This is an absolutely superb example of BC Pinot Noir. It is a deeply coloured wine with an intense nose of cherry & spice. It is so silky smooth in the mouth, with satisfying and rich berry flavours and an oaky spiciness. So well balanced and nice long finish to savour. Although tough to find (I think it is only available in fine restaurants in BC), it is worth the hunt to enjoy it with a great meal. Our service team loves selling it; although it is a bit pricey, customers are always impressed and very satisfied with the recommendation." Greg Hays from Cafe Brio shares this pick

Meyer Family "Tribute" Chardonnay 2007 Although this is only their second, the Meyers have crafted what must surely be one of the finest Chardonnays in Canada, and this is just their entry level Chard. They also make a "Micro Cuvee" that is mind boggling for $65. The vineyard has a northerly aspect which allows the grapes to mature gracefully rather than quickly. The long, slow ripening process results in grapes with a vast spectrum of flavours and an elegant minerality. More closely resembling Burgundy than Napa, it has an intense nose with hints of wood smoke, citrus, melon and peach. Quite dry on the palate with attractive weight in a medium to full-bodied style and marked by a streak of refreshing acidity. Beautifully balanced with a long, lovely finish. Outstanding B.C. Chardonnay. $30 from the winery,3.1 acres producing only 330 cases.

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2009

Gary Hynes

Villa Suites open from February to October. Phone: 250 498 4435 www.hestercreek.com

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WHITES Domaine du Tariquet Sauvignon Blanc 2003 France $16.00-19.00 I had forgotten just how good this zippy little French Sauvignon Blanc from the Cotes de Gascogne could be. Crisp and refreshing with intense citrus, melon and mineral nuances, nicely balanced with good acidity and a long clean finish. Torley Chapel Hill Pinot Grigio 08 Hungary $13.00-15.00 Since the fall of the iron curtain, Western Europe has scoured the derelict collectives of Eastern Europe in search of cheap but good wine. While this may seem a bit of an oxymoron perhaps the thirst has finally been sated in the tiny village of Balatonboglar, located somewhere in Hungary. This unpretentious little Pinot Grigio is light and refreshing with soft apple and citrus flavours. A lovely summer sipper worth a try. Little Straw Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 07 British Columbia $17.00-19.00 Little Straw is a family owned winery located on the lower slopes of Mt. Boucherie, just outside of Kelowna. Fresh and lively with subtle citrus and floral notes on the nose with more than a hint of pink grapefruit on the palate! Very nice indeed. Domaine de Grachies Blanc 08 France $13.00-15.00 This is an easy wine to like and why not for the price. A blend of Colombard, Ugni Blanc and the ever popular Gros Mansang, you may well ask, where my friend do you ever find such obscure wines? Well, since you asked, this one harkens from the Cotes de Gascogne in southwest France. It is very fresh with subtle grapefruit, apple and citrus flavours, in essence a wine of simple charm.

Pesquie Cotes du Ventoux Les Terrasses 07 France $18.00-20.00 For those disciplined few who managed to spit more then they swallowed at the Rhone Gang tasting at Sips Artisan Bistro this past spring you may remember how deliciously decadent the 2006 Terrasses was. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dense fruit flavours and remarkable depth! How the silky smooth finish just kept going and going and going! Well guess what? The 2007 is better! Fat and lush with black cherry, raspberry and spice flavours, velvety tannins and a finish of great length and resolve. Bisceglia Aglianico del Vulture 06 Italy $20.00-23.00 With over 30 hectares planted with local grape varieties and a state of the art winery, Bisceglia is one of the movers and shakers of this remote region in southern Italy. There is nothing refined about this wine, it is dark and potent with an earthy fecundity that is lusty but not unattractive. The fruit is all there but so are the tannins and acidity. In essence this is a wine not for the faint of heart, the timid or those with a dainty palate. It is concentrated, robust, chewy and damn near impenetrable! All of Biscegliaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vineyards are organic. Very highly recommended but needs air, patience and plenty of fortitude. Twin Islands Pinot Noir 07 New Zealand $22.00-24.00 Medium-bodied with red cherry, strawberry, sweet barnyard and spicy oak aromas, a silky smooth texture and simple fruit flavours. Soft and very easy to like. Fairview Cellars Cabernet Franc 07 British Columbia $25.00-28.00 Fairview Cellars is located at the north end of the Golden Mile in Oliver. With just 6 acres of vineyard, dedicated exclusively to Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, owner Bell Eggert does not appear to be in any hurry to get rich off the bounty of his meager production. I like all his wines but the Cabernet Franc is my favourite. Balanced and supple with concentrated black currant and bell pepper flavours, mediumbodied with soft tannins and good length. Highly recommended. Delas Saint-Esprit Cotes du Rhone 07 France $18.00-20.00 Made from a blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Carignan, this sumptuous Rhone red is lip-smacking good with generous blackberry, pepper and spice flavours, a round supple texture and a soft fruit filled finish. Montes Alpha Syrah 06 Chile $28.00-30.00 This is one rich red that wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t take too big a bite out of your beleaguered pocket book. Generous and ripe with heady layers of blackberry, pepper and roasted coffee flavours, full bodied with soft tannins and a long smooth finish.

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www.eatmagazine.ca SEPT | OCTOBER 2009

Blue Grouse In this second in his series on Vancouver Island wineries, Adem Tepedelen learns how Cowichan Valley’s Blue Grouse Vineyards adapts to the Island’s short, volatile growing season.

So these are the sacrifices Vancouver Island wineries have to make. If one is to use Blue Grouse as a model, however, they ultimately lead to success. The winery’s output may be small, its selections heavy on aromatic whites, but the wines are exceptional across the board, the whites all perfect accompaniments to local shellfish and produce, the reds well suited to fresh-caught salmon or CONT’D ON THE BOTTOM OF THE NEXT PAGE

FIND A NEW FAVOURITE

Fall for B.C. Wines this Autumn!

VQA Wine Shop at

MATTICK’S FARM Open 7 days a week

5325 Cordova Bay Rd. 250-658-3116

www.matticksfarm.com

Our service can best be described as “Knowledgeable, yet not pretentious… …approachable, with a hint of sass!”

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2009

1715 Government Street 250.475.6260 www.lecole.ca eat@lecole.ca

Dinner 5:30 - 11 pm Tuesday to Saturday

A Rebecca Wellman

Making sacrifices is a necessary part of crafting high-quality wine on Vancouver Island. And no one understands that better than Blue Grouse patriarch/senior winemaker Hans Kiltz, who brought his family—wife Evangeline, son Richard and daughter Sandrina—to the Cowichan Valley in 1988 and purchased a 31-acre plot southwest of Duncan that included an experimental vineyard. Though there were some 156 different varieties being propagated in that one-acre vineyard, he set out zeroing in on the ones he knew would do well and clearing an additional nine acres to plant varieties well-suited to the short, volatile growing season. “The basic thought here is that we have a similar climate to the moderate wine regions of Europe, like Germany, Austria and Switzerland,” he says. “And the wine industry in Germany is mainly based on Riesling varieties.” Kiltz, a Berlin native himself, knows European wines and the challenges of growing vinifera grapes in cool climates, so he took the path of least resistance and sought to follow the European model, with initially mixed results. “We tried growing Riesling here, but it’s not the same. I wasn’t happy with it so I pulled it out. What are doing much better are Riesling crosses.” WINEMAKER HANS KILTZ IN HIS VINEYARD AT BLUE GROUSE Which was one of a succession of sacrifices he had to make along the way. As juicy, crisp and delicious as these Riesling crosses are—and Blue Grouse’s are superlative—they do not come with the same cachet as the noble grape varieties. But Kiltz knew he could make good wine with them. So in the late 1980s—long before any Vancouver Island wineries except Vigneti Zanatta existed—in went Bacchus, Müller-Thurgau, Ortega and Siegerrebe, all early-ripening Riesling crosses. Unfortunately, these names didn’t initially register with North Americans who have only in the past 40 years come around to fine wine. “It’s difficult to market a variety that’s not well known,” says Kiltz. “I had this problem with the Ortega at the beginning because it sounds Spanish, but it’s a German grape.” At least one of his early plantings, as it turns out, wasn’t such a hard sell and has become one of Blue Grouse’s most highly regarded wines. Their Pinot Gris, a classic Alsatian varietal, is like a tropical fruit basket in the mouth. Full of juicy, ripe flavours, it also has a nice, slightly pink hue, a testament to the ripeness Kiltz can attain on his sunny south-facing vineyard. That abundant sunshine also helps develop the red wines—Pinot Noir, Gamay Noir and the unique Black Muscat—that Kiltz eventually added to his line-up, something they didn’t initially plan on 20 years ago. “I was reluctant to plant red varieties at the very beginning,” Kiltz admits, “but the demand is there.” To make such high-quality wines and be successful year in and year out, however, have meant continued concessions to the Island climate. One of the greatest is accepting that to maintain that quality, they must sometimes significantly sacrifice yield. Some years they can produce 3,000 cases, others may net only 1,600. The last two vintages have been particularly challenging due to poor weather, but the smaller quantities nonetheless weren’t diminished in quality due to their selectivity in the vineyard. “[In poor years] you have a smaller [yield],” explains Kiltz, “because you crop back as much as you can and lose grapes because you decide not to pick them because they’re not properly ripened. Last year, we left about 50 percent of the Pinot Gris out there. We picked the ones we thought were ripe enough.”

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Downtown Victoria Featuring an extensive collection from the Wineries and Micro Breweries of Victoria and Vancouver Island Ales Wines & Spirits From around the world Value brands to classics Open 7 days 10 am to 11 pm Free delivery on case orders Chilled Wines & Beers

Rebecca Wellman

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PEARS IN A PERRY TREE

A RARE PERRY ORCHARD THAT HAS MANAGED TO SURVIVE IN NORTH SAANICH About a year and half ago Kristen Jordan of Sea Cider Farm & Ciderhouse near Victoria fielded a call from a member of the BC Fruit Testers Association. They had called to say they believed they had found an old Perry orchard on a property in North Saanich. Would Kristen come and take a look and a make confirmation? Kirsten was immediately excited. Ok, let’s back up a back a bit. British Columbians can be forgiven if they don’t know what Perry is. Perry is a pear cider traditionally made in the UK from a specific category of pear trees called Perry trees. Unfortunately our beloved LDB doesn’t make much room for authentic Perries so you are unlikely to have tried this form of pear cider. Perry orchards are rare in Canada (those in existence were probably planted by European immigrants a century or so ago) and real Perry is not made in Canada (to my knowledge). Quite possibly this North Saanich orchard is the only one still in existence on Vancouver Island. Kirsten was excited. She had spent time abroad in Wales and in France and had become familiar with Perry ciders and had loved them. Kirsten arrived at the North Saanich orchard to find a very old and gnarled orchard of tall pear trees all precisely aligned in straight rows. The trees bore round, brown-russet coloured fruit not much larger than a walnut that didn’t look at all like your typical Bartlett pear. Biting into one she found it to be rock-hard and astringent with tannins but also with high acidity and high sugar. It was indeed fruit from a Perry tree she concluded. The wonder is the property owners had left the orchard intact, even though they found the rock hard little fruits a nuisance that required careful picking-up of the falls before mowing the grass around the trees. Although the orchard isn’t large by commercial standards there were enough trees and enough pears that Kristen thought she could press and ferment the fruit to make a batch of Perry. Unlike eating pears which are soft and can gum up the press, Perry pears press out to a dry, hard cake and give off a wonderful juice that is well balanced with acidity, tannins and sugar—in short—perfect for making a cider that ferments out to about 7-8%. With pears, (including Perry pears) part of the fruit’s sugar is sorbital sugar, which does not ferment. This means the cider won’t ferment bone dry and a little residual sweetness is left. The end result is a cider that is delicate, well balanced with a pleasant pearish aroma that is pleasingly off-dry. Sea Cider’s cidermaker made a small batch of Perry last year and is working on a larger production this year - some of which will be offered to the public for sale. Call the cidery for more information. 250.544.482 Cowichan Valley-raised duck. Though Kiltz is reluctant to ascribe any characteristics of terroir to his particular property, he does believe Vancouver Island has something special. “Certainly the wines we make on the island are different than, say, the same varieties from the Okanagan,” he admits. “Our wines usually have lots of fruit, maybe a shorter finish, maybe a bit more acidity. I don’t know if it’s as much the soil, or more the climate.” Whatever it is, Kiltz is figuring it out, along with the rest of his fellow Island winemakers. Best vintages: 2001-2006 Tasting room hours: April through December, Wednesday–Saturday: 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Web: www.bluegrousevineyards.com Phone: 250-743-3834 Address: 4365 Blue Grouse Rd., Duncan, BC

919 Douglas Street Victoria BC 250.370.WINE (9463) www.strathliquor.com

DOMESTIC WINE SPECIALISTS OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK WINERY DIRECT PRICES CHILLED WINES ~ AT NO EXTRA COST HUGE SELECTION OF ICEWINE WEDDING & PARTY PLANNING FREE DELIVERY ON CASE ORDERS

2579 Cadboro Bay Road BESIDE SLATER'S MEATS ACROSS FROM PURE VANILLA BAKERY LOTS OF CUSTOMER PARKING

CALL 250.592.8466

FOR MORE INFORMATION GO TO WWW.BCWINEGUYS.COM

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPT | OCTOBER 2009

WINE & TERROIR

No Vine Before Its Time

Do years in the soil translate into complexity in the bottle? — By Michaela Morris and Michelle Bouffard Choosing a wine is an ongoing dilemma. Even if you narrow down the selection to a specific country or grape, you are still presented with plenty of choices. While aesthetes may pick the wine with the prettiest label, the more methodical look at the label for additional clues. The phrase “old vines” certainly alludes to something extra special. Will it be better and more complex than the bottle that sells for the same price but doesn’t mention anything about the age of the plants? Or is it simply a marketing ploy? On their own, terms like “special reserve” or “proprietor’s selection” mean absolutely nothing. “Old vines” (or “vieilles vignes”) is seemingly more descriptive, making reference to the age of the vines that produced the wine. It infers that old vines are intrinsic to the quality of the wine. Indeed, the general belief is that the older the vine, the better the wine it will produce. As a vine ages, it becomes less vigorous and naturally produces less fruit per vine. “Lower yields” concentrate the fruit flavours in the grapes, resulting in more concentrated wines. In addition, a vine’s root system becomes better established with age, stretching deep into the soil and reaching precious underground minerals. These are purported to endow the wine with a certain je ne sais quoi, an extra layer of complexity. It is not unlike us humans who become less active with age but more interesting with life experience. At least we like to think the latter is true . . . Typically, the fruit of a vine isn’t used to produce wine until the vine is three years old. In fact, some European regulations impose a minimum of more than three years. Until vines reach approximately 20, they exhibit a childlike exuberance and the vine grower must work hard to keep yields in check. Subsequently, they become less and less productive. By the time they reach 50, most vines produce so little they are no longer economically viable. Yet some producers persist in making wines from vines more than 100 years old. At what point do vines reach their golden age? Global or even regional agreement simply doesn’t exist. In fact, the term “old vines” isn’t legislated, so technically a producer can label his bottle as such even if the vines are a mere nine years old, for example. “A vine can be old if the producer decides it is old,” quips Philippe Trébignaud of Domaine de la Sarazinière. Even among those who use the term honestly like Philippe, it is relative. Domaine de la Sarazinière’s ‘Vieilles Vignes’ cuvées come from vines that are more than 80 years old, but even the regular bottlings are made from 60-year-old vines. In the Okanagan Valley, Tantalus’ ‘Old Vines’ Riesling is made from a selection of vines approximately 30 years old. This may be considered young by more established regions’ standards; however, these are some of British Columbia’s oldest wine-producing vines. From the consumer’s perspective, it would be helpful if there was an international standard. In Australia, Yalumba has actually developed a hierarchy based on age. A vine is considered old at 35 (what a blow to our egos!), antique at 70, centenarian at 100 and tri-centenary if it spans three centuries. The folks at Yalumba would like to see this hierarchy adopted by the rest of the world, but they have their work cut out for them. Getting winemakers to agree on what age is old is an impossible task. It is an ambiguous notion, not a science. The fixation with old vines pervades every region. When you see those twisted gnarly trunks, you start to understand why. It is an otherworldly experience to walk through an old vineyard with rows of thick stocky stumps and we tread reverently. A recent visit to the Napa’s Moore Vineyard, made famous by Turley’s Zinfandel “Earthquake” bottling, provoked a sense of awe. Planted in 1905, it is one of the region’s oldest vineyards. Winemaker Mike Hendry, who will eventually make wine from these treasured vines, posed the question while we were exploring the vineyard with him: “Do

you think a vineyard is good because it’s old or do you think it’s old because it’s good?” He believes that vines make it to “old age” because they produced good grapes to begin with. It sounds like the chicken and the egg debate. Winemakers agree that there are advantages as well as disadvantages to working with old vines. The well-established root systems of older vines enable them to perform more consistently in adversarial conditions such as drought and extreme heat or cold. Yet these old vines are not necessarily economical. By the time a vineyard reaches 30, the vines’ behaviour is no longer uniform, making them much more difficult to work with. As vines age, they become more susceptible to disease, which affects yields. A common set of diseases goes by the sinister name of “dead arm.” These are fungal diseases that essentially cause the wood to rot. Some of those 100-plus-year-old vines at the Moore Vineyard have trunks as thick as 40-50 centimetres in diameter, yet they are so fragile they could be swept away by a strong windstorm. Working a vineyard like this is a labour of love. Surely the wine comes at a higher price. Old vines bottlings are usually an estate’s top and most expensive wine. Those who persevere with this demanding work demonstrate a rare fascination for old vines. They are drawn to the intrigue and the seemingly intangible character they give the wine. Bertrand Sourdais, winemaker at Dominio de Atauta in Spain’s Ribera del Duero region, describes this as a sense of place. According to him, vines that have spent over a century adapting to their specific environment will express “a typicity that will be amplified and that only old vines are capable of offering us.” We fully agree with Bertrand that wines made from old vines can have a unique and intriguing character. But does this mean that young vine wines lack charm and complexity? One has to look no further than “The Judgement of Paris.” The recent film Bottle Shock is based on this famous tasting in which France’s top established wines were pitted against California’s newcomers. The winning wine was the inaugural vintage (1973) of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon made from three-yearold vines. The old vines debate will always come into play when one questions why a particular wine is so good. One of Australia’s most iconic wines, Henschke’s “Hill of Grace,” comes from a vineyard planted in the early ’60s, not 1960 but 1860. Almost 150 years ago! The wine has gained worldwide acclaim, and the 2004 vintage stunned us with its layers of complexity and refined flavours. Is this a result of the vines’ age? Or can it be attributed to brilliant winemaking and proper care in the vineyard? We suggest a combination of all three. Old vines are just one part of a very complex story.

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EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2009

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Whites 2007 Tantalus ‘Old Vines’ Riesling, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, $29.90* We’ve been big fans of this wine since the very first vintage. Made from some of the oldest vines in B.C., it is a more austere dry style of Riesling. Packed with concentrated flavours of lime and grapefruit, it resembles a Riesling from the Clare Valley region in Australia. Screaming acidity requires food like ceviche, cheese fondue or tomato salad.

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier, Vieilles Vigne de Cramant, Champagne AC, France, $135.00* One of our best Champagne moments was a tête-à-tête with this cuvée. The first sip tastes just like the chalky soil found in Champagne. Don’t get scared; it’s a very appealing attribute. Slightly reserved with fantastic structure and a long complex mineral finish. If you can afford it, buy a few bottles and put them away for a few years. Otherwise, splurge on a single bottle. It’s worth every single penny!

Reds 2006 Domaine de la Sarazinière, 'Cuvée Tradition' Mâcon Bussières AC Rouge, France, $28.00* Beaujolais isn’t the only region producing vibrant and delicious Gamay. Winemaker Philippe Trébignaud crafts a fine example from the Mâcon region in Burgundy. Perhaps the complexity and je ne sais quoi character can be attributed to the 60-yearold vines. Excellent with charcuterie, salmon and tuna. Very charming! 2005 Château Roquetaillade, ‘La Grange’ Grand Vin de Bordeaux, Graves AC Vieilles Vignes, France, $35.00 If you are looking for a well-priced Bordeaux, it doesn’t get much better than this. Deep luscious flavours of cocoa, plum and cassis combined with a classic pencil shaving character make it a fine match with rack of lamb. What makes it so superior, a combination of old vines and a great vintage? We’ll have to try the 2006 to settle the debate.

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2007 Garnacha de Fuego, Old Vines, Catalayud DO, Spain, $15.99 Looks AREN’T everything. Once you get past the cheesy label, you’ll fall in love with this wine. Bright and juicy flavours of raspberries and leather make it intrinsically Grenache. God love the Spaniards; once again, they’ve producer a killer wine for the price. 2006 Altos de la Hoya, Finca Hoya de Santa Ana, Monastrell, Jumilla DO, Spain, $17.99 Altos de la Hoya showcases the typical wild and gamey aromas so often associated with Monastrell. Its dense structure and flavours of dried fruit will charm the drinker who seeks something full on a cool night. The vines average 80 years old with some that are more than 130, but you won’t find any mention of this on the label. A crowd pleaser. 2006 Quinta do Crasto, Reserva Old Vines, Douro DOC, Portugal, $42.99 Portugal is another country blessed with old vines. Here you have between 25-30 different indigenous grape varieties averaging 70 years old, crafting a full-bodied and characterful wine. The hallmark of this big Portuguese red is its acidity, making it a great partner at the dinner table. Red meat please! 2006 Ravenswood ‘Barricia,’ Sonoma Valley Benchlands, California, $45.99 California has an abundance of dry farmed old vines. Made from 100-year-old vines, the single vineyard ‘Barricia’ is full of succulent deep black currant and licorice flavours and slight grilled herbs notes. A must with red meat; especially ribs. *Wines available at private wine stores only. Prices may vary.

www.eatmagazine.ca SEPT | OCTOBER 2009

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HAUTE

CUISINE 1210 Broad St., 250.388.9906

— by Ceara Lornie

"Spontaneously pair an ingredient with another that comes to mind and tell us why?" Alberto Pozzolo Italian Bakery 250.388.4557 JFine sea salt and a just picked tomato from the garden, it is getting about that time! I slice the tomato so that it is porous and then sprinkle it with the the sea salt and I am very happy. It is around this same time that I chase that tomato with a ripe garden fig topped with some vin cotto. I love this time of year. Ben Peterson Heron Rock Bistro 250.383.1545 Just this morning my chefs and I were brainstorming this exact exercise. We wanted to highlight apricot in a stuffed Cowichan Bay chicken breast feature this evening; it had to be light for summer, melty and oozing yet not running out when hot, and ultimately (and obviously) delicious! We tested a few ratios of cheeses to fruit to herb and settled on a combination of fresh cheese curds we made ourselves, goat's feta, basil, lemon zest and of course, the apricot. It was a big hit and we 86'd by the end of the night! Trish Dixon Breakers Fresh Food Cafe 250.725.2558 Summertime favourite at Breakers Fresh Food Cafe has to be our Roast Chicken and Cherry Salad Sandwich. A nice crusty baquette filled with roast organic chicken, fresh Okanagan cherries, lemon aioli & fresh herbs. Mmmm… summertime… packed lunches for a day at the beach. Aaron Rail Avenue Bistro 250.890.9200 I’ve been loving raspberries and goat cheese lately. I think it’s the unctuousness of the cheese with the tart zippy flavour of the raspberries. The pairing has so much potential: in salad, cheesecake or panna cotta, venison or lamb with raspberry sauce and goat cheese crumbled on top… Markus Weiland Markus’ Wharfside Restaurant 250.642.3596 My spontaneous pairing usually happens during a walk through my greenhousegrabbing a ripe tomato off the vine, cutting a few leaves of fresh basil, sprinkling bit of salt and popping it in my mouth! Robert Belcham Fuel 604.288.7905 Right now it has to be Highpoint Farms (Gabriola Island) raspberries with caramelized Italian meringue. The sweet caramelization is the perfect foil to the slight acidity in the raspberries. Cory Pelan La Piola 250.388.4517 Tomatoes: Beefsteak, Black Plum, Green zebra, Brandywine, Latah, Black Gypsy, Yellow Peach, White Cherry, Tigerella to name a few. We are lucky to have so many varieties of such outstanding quality growing here on the Island and having just received a big order moments before writing this, they are definitely on my mind. I am imagining them right now sliced on fresh calabrese bread drizzled liberally with Fruttato Verde extra virgin olive oil, a little sea salt and a couple of Arugula leaves. The worst pairing that comes to mind? Nuts and gum.

WINE PICKS Russell Gelling manager at the 6 Mile Liquor Store shares this favourite with us:

Nichol Vineyard Estate Pinot Gris 2007 "Salmon is not just a BC fish. This salmon coloured pinot gris has had just the right amount of skin contact to boost the body with added fruit flavours of peach, berry and stone fruits. Added mineral and citrus notes on the finish only make this wine even more complex. The winemaker also voided the harsh tannins that some roses show, leaving us with a clean fresh summer patio wine. Drink with your favourite BC coastal shellfish or citrus grilled salmon."Now available in select retailers. Farmstead Wines creator Anthony Nicalo knows a thing or two about sniffing out a good wine. He shares a rare favourite with EAT readers:

2006 Vinoterra Winery Kisi "Kisi is an indigenous white-grape varietal grown predominantly in eastern Georgia. This wine is fermented in clay amphora and aged in oak. Slightly oxidized and a lovely amber colour with dried stonefruit and a minty-lemon balm thing going on. I look for really interesting, offbeat wines that are sometimes hit or miss, but always very intruiging and complex. This particular bottle is probably impossible to find in BC (look for it when you are in Seattle or shopping online for wine to send to your Pt. Roberts mailbox).

EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2009

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DRESSED UP & READY TO GO!

For dinner out, a family gathering, home parties or kicking back at the cabin, Tinhorn Creek has the wines for the occasion. Celebrating our 15th anniversary with a fresh look, we are proud to show you our 100% estate-grown varietal line up and Oldfield Series wines. At Tinhorn Creek we sustainably farm our land and create wines of merit. Our 150 acres of vineyards are located on two unique and diverse south Okanagan sites: the Golden Mile and the Black Sage bench. Our ability to blend the grapes from these vineyards and capture the best characteristics of each site sets us apart. Visit our spectacular estate winery in Oliver, BC and experience for yourself. We will welcome you with open arms. NATURALLY SOUTH OKANAGAN www.tinhorn.com