Beaux Graphic Design MFA Thesis Designed and Written by Jing Ge
Jing Ge 415.527.7788 gejing89109@gmail.com
Academy of Art University Graduate School of Graphic Design 79 New Montgomery Street, San Francisco, California, USA
Find out more about Beaux at: www.youarebeaux.com View more works by Jing Ge at: www.jinggedesign.com
All Rights Reserved Copyright
© 2 0 17 J i n g G e
Making Your Cosmetics As Beautiful As You. MFA THESIS PROCESS BOOK
JING GE
Contents
CHAPTER
0
1
CHAPTER
Introduction
0
3
Identity & Development
BACKGROUND
14
THE PROBLEM
16
LOGO DEVELOPMENT
42
DESIGN OPPORTUNITIES
18
VISUAL STANDARD
50
ILLUSTRATION DEVELOPMENT
50
APP DEVELOPMENT
50
USER FEEDBACK
50
MAGAZINE DEVELOPMENT
50
CHAPTER
0
2
Research GATHERING FACTS & DATA
24
PERSONAS
26
EVENT
32
SURVEY
32
INSIGHTS
32
STRATEGY CHART
32
CHAPTER
0
4
We Are BEAUX BEAUX APP
88
BEAUX MAGAZINE
94
BEAUX INGREDIENT SYSTEM
94
BEAUX WEBSITE
94
Foreword
I started this topic because this is the problem I have to faces in my daily life. I’m a big fan of cosmetics and beauty products, I never realized the environmental impact cosmetics had on our health, until I watched Annie Leonard’s “Story of Cosmetics”, which examined the pervasive use of toxic chemicals in our everyday personal care products. I was shocked the cosmetics industry was not regulated like the food and drug sectors. And like most women, my lip gloss and shampoo are products I would never think to describe as “toxic” or could contain cancer-causing chemicals. And more shocked is there not many consumers really care about the ingredients in those cosmetics, because they can’t read the ingredients list I can not read it, too. I hope I can aware more people about this problem to reduce the potential damages of toxic chemicals in our personal care products with the skill I have in graphic design. Graphic design can be powerful tool to solve problems. I believe I can utlize my design skills to change people’s behavior and to help them engage in an daily cosmetic routine. With a littlr digging aroud, I found insights that inspired me and lead me in an inovative path to createsomting that has never been made before.
0
1
Introduction 001_ THE PROBLEM 002_ WHY IS MATTER 003_ DESIGN OPPORTUNITIES
In this chapter, I will describe the background and problemsof my thesis area, by doing these research I found serval design opptunities to solve this problem.
001
The Problem
Almost 13,000 chemicals are used in cosmetics, and only about 10 percent have been evaluated for safety. You may be happy to know that the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) prohibits the use of mercury, chloroform and nine other substances in your shampoo, soap and other personal care products. That is, until you learn that the European Union prohibits the use of more than 1,300 substances in their personal care products. The FDA’s paltry restriction of just 11 substances is even more ridiculous considering there are nearly 13,000 chemicals used in cosmetics, and only about 10 percent have been evaluated for safety. Although the FDA has the authority to regulate harmful ingredients in cosmetics and personal care products, it typically doesn’t, preferring instead to rely on the products’ manufacturers to regulate themselves. If customers claim that a product has caused them harm, however, the companies are not required to report such claims to the FDA. And in the event that a product is deemed to be harmful, the FDA can’t even order a recall.
Almost 13,000 chemicals are used in cosmetics
Only about 10 percent have been evaluated for safety
20%
51%
96%
0%
Arsenic
Cadmium
Lead
Mercury
Heavy metals are in our face makeup, and consumers have no way of knowing about it. Environmental Defense tested 49 different makeup items, including foundations, concealers, powders, blushes, mascaras, eye liners, eye shadows, lipsticks, and lip glosses. Their testing revealed serious heavy metal contamination in virtually all of the products: This result just show the heayv metals contain in our cosmetics and that we know it’s harmful for our health. What about other toxic chemicals like Alpha Hydroxy Acids, Parabens, Phthalates or other chemicals we cannot even pronounce? How many toxic chemicals we put on our face everyday?
100%
90%
61%
14%
Nickel
Beryllium
Thallium
Selenium
001
Why is Matter
Your skin is the largest organ of the body, it is responsible for detoxification and absorption. According to Harvard’s School of Public Health, “In the United States, the average person is exposed to more than a hundred chemicals from cosmetics, soaps, and other personal care products before leaving the house in the morning.” While people may assume these products are safe, their chemical ingredients are mostly untested and largely unregulated, with even known carcinogenic and endocrine disrupting chemicals still found in some formulations. What’s more, ingredient labels can be misleading, leaving even the savviest consumers in the dark about the safety of the products they use every day. The average US woman uses 12 cosmetics a day, containing 168 different chemicals, according to the Environmental Working Group. While most men use fewer products, they’re still exposed to about 85 such chemicals daily, while teens, who use an average of 17 cosmetic products a day, are exposed to even more. When it comes to food, it can be fairly simple and straight—forward to read the ingredients and make a decision about whether or not we want to eat it, and to avoid buying products with ingredients that don’t agree with us, such as dairy or gluten or common allergens. But when it comes to all of our cosmetics, it isn’t nearly as easy to understand which ingredients may be risky or hazardous, unless we’ve memorized the names of specific chemicals and additives that are known or suspected to be unhealthy for our bodies.
Woman will exposing themselves to a mixture of over 168 individual chemicals per day and more than 6,1320 per year. The average US woman uses 12 cosmetics a day
At least 14 chemicals in each products
“ The best way to d
putting toxic thin depend upon it's — Andrew Weil (American celebrity doctor)
detoxify is to stop ngs into the body and own mechanisms.
“
003
Design Opportunities There are coutless cosmetic awareness campaigns and organizations, but there are also coutless unexploited opportunities that could mover consumers. Beaux uses unexploited opportunities that can mobilize all consumers—not just the crazy lover of cosmetics—to reduce the usgae of toxic chemicals in cosmetics. There are three approaches to achieve the goal. First, make it personal. Current cosmetic compagin or organization have focused on complex messaging that have emphsized benefits. Beaux is a brand that capitalized on the consumer’s tendency to care about toxic ingredients in products that appeal to their sense of self and particular image and lifestyle. Beaux is here to help you to avoid the harmful chemicals in cosmetics. Our quarterly beauty magazine and website of the same name provides suggestions, recommendations, rankings, tutorial and statistics to help you choose and use personal care products that are good for you. Our toxic tracker app keeps a tab on your chemical daily intake and helps you make an informed decision on what products to use or avoid. The Beaux Icon System can make it easier for you to get information about ingredients in your personal care products. Its guidelines are based on the stringent cosmetic safety policy used in the European Union.
0
2
Research
001_ PERSONAS 002_ EVENT 003_ ONLINE SURVERY 004_ INSIGHTS 005_ STRATEGY CHART
The next step after I had defined a clear objective for my thesis was to research and explore as much as I could in order to deliver an effective design solution for the problem. The purpose of the research was to find out more about the topic and its related issues. In the early stage of my project, I worked on research at the same time as ideation development and designexplorations. It involved a lot of reading, investigation and sketching. To speak to my real audience, I did using testing and prototyping of my design deliverables. It was a long process for me. However, I did gain insights that were key for this project during my research journey.
“ Research is to see
else has seen, and nobody else has t — Albert Szent-Gyorgyi
e what everybody d to think what thought.
“
BUSY
COMPLICATED
SACRIFICE
IMPULSE
Nowadays everyone live in fast pace, people are busy to work, busy to study and busy to make themselves better. That makes people have less time get some new knowledge and information through read newspapers and books even the ingredients list of their personal beauty products.
Science technology and chemistry are very complicated and difficult for normal people, we only have some basic knowledges of them. That make people even they have habits of reading the ingredients list of beauty products but they still don’t know what exactly the chemicals use for.
Science technology and chemistry are very complicated and difficult for normal people, we only have some basic knowledges of them. That make people even they have habits of reading the ingredients list of beauty products but they still don’t know what exactly the chemicals use for.
Impulse purchasing is a common phenomenon in the modern marketing world and especially in beauty products world. It is had to resist the attraction and desire of beauty so the producers and marketers turn to induce the consumers to made impulse buying now.
PROMOTE
REGULATION WORSE
INTERACTION HABIT
AVOIDCONFLICT
PRO
Thebeauty development of sciencePeople can not live loves without When we use products Womenthe absorb upofto 5lbs ofPeople can Woman Who safety every new seaWho can regulate the safety of can regulate bring convenience environ and and lipsticks, like cleanser, shampoo, con- to people’s damaging a year with their smart Not chemicals FDA, it might sonedphones eye shadow beauty products? Not FDA, beauty it mightproducts? life wash but itand is also destroying pollutio computers nowmost daysof and I think ditioner, body other to there beauty products. And to learn are no but them just use only a surprise you to learn there surprise are no youthanks nature. Everything this way to interact products the chemical ingredi-has two protect according other research toxicis a good safety and to virtually no few times. That caused wasted safety standards and virtually no standards opposite sides, for chemistry from ch with peopleofabout theproducts. damage Think first ents will through sewer pull into in beauty restrictionschemicals for chemicals used products beauty restrictions for chemicals used and it also have 2 sides. informa in then beauty products. environment atscience last those water can linked with Unlike cancer, birthof chemicals in personal-care products. and buy it is a good habit. in personal-care products. Unlike We can see the birds dying on will into ocean. People should learning and with drugs, defects, no safety reviewsdisabilities are with drugs, no safety reviews are the ocean and we also can see know how to avoid that. otherthese illness. The worst part is required before products required before these products the car running on the road. beauty products has ugly side. go to market, and no reporting go to market, and no reporting How to keep developing of requirements exist for adverse requirements exist for adverse science and at the same time events related to their use. events related to their use. protect our environment is a important issue.
001
Personas
Understanding your audience will allow you to find insight about their relationship to the topic, and it will allow you ti think about the best ways to reach your audience with design. By understaing your audience, you will create directed and focused materials, writing, visuals, and concepts. Therefore, defining your target audience is very important. I create a set of my archetypes by using cosmetic advertising card inside magazine to appearances. The brand on the card is to show their favouite brands. By showing their favorite brand can also show their consumer psychology.
002
Events
Goal:
Uncover insights through the conversation with target audience. Date:
28/05/2015 Participants:
9 young adults
To gengerate deeper insights into my theis topic, which is encouraging people to considering ingredients in their cosmetics, I created a makeup and dinner event to get people together and discuss the topic. There are three major deliverables that I created for the event: invitation, event planning guide and a report which includes the dicymentation of the entire event and the distillation of this project. Ten people joined the event. They live in San Francisco, often shoping at downtown area. The clowd include a professional makeup artist, 7 makeup lover, and 2 guys doesn’t know a lot of cosmetic. The event included different people with different thought that give me a lot interesting insights.
“I will do lots research of review before I bought them, but I never thought I should check for the chemical ingedients. The reason makes me buy new kind of products is I saw the recommendation online.” —Qingyang
Qingyang li
28
CHINA
Ke Zhang
FEMALE
GRAPHIC DESIGNER
30
CHINA ACCOUNTANTS
Ran Zhang
FEMALE
25
CHINA
FEMALE
MATH STUDENT
“I read the ingredients list of every thing I used, but it’s hard for me, most words I can’t recognize even I already know the meaning in Chinese I didn’t know if it harmful or health.” —Ran
“Actually I even don’t know if these brands or products are real natural or not. Many brand said that they are health and natural but who knows.” —Adrienne Hui
Nu Hong
36
USA
Qing Lin
FEMALE
PSYCHOLOGICAL DOCTOR
19
CHINA
Adrienne Hui
FEMALE
FIANCE STUDENT
42
CHINA
FEMALE
COSMETIC SALES
“I have a customer asked me for recommend for the hameless and natural products because she is trying for pregnant. That time I found that it hard for me to give her answer immdiately.” —Raymond
Raymond Hong
40
USA
MALE
COSMETIC SALES
Shuhua Lin
20
CHINESE
Daniel Sun
FEMALE
ACCOUNTING STUDENT
39
USA
MALE
GAME DESIGNER
003
Survey
Goal:
To investigate young women’s thoughts about toxic chemicals in their cosmetics. Date:
04/07/2015 Participants:
101 people invited online
To gain more thoughts from different people, I designed a 21 quesions onlinesurvey to reach wider audience, Besides my friends from 20to 35 who is my main target audience, to get more thoughts I also asked elder friends to take this survey. In the survey I asked respondents their cosmetic using and shopping habits. Why they care or why they not care about ingredients in their cosmetics is very important opinion for me. Finally I got 103 respondents help me explored deeper of my topic.
QUESTION 04: How often do you buy cosmetic products?
QUESTION 01: How old are you? Under 17 years old
3
2.97%
1-2 times a year
20
19.80%
18–24 years old
20
19.80%
3-4 times a year
23
22.77%
25–34 years old
29
28.71%
5 or more times a year
42
41.58%
35–44 years old
17
16.83%
1-2 times a month
10
9.90%
45–54 years old
10
9.90%
3-4 times a month
4
3.96%
55–64 years old
16
15.84%
5 or more times a month
2
1.98%
65 years or older
8
5.94%
QUESTION 05: Approximately how much do you think you spend on cosmetics every month?
QUESTION 02: How often do you wear make-up? Everyday
38
37.62%
Less than 50 dollars
69
68.32%
Weekends
7
6.93%
$50—100 dollars
22
21.78%
6
5.94%
Special Occasions
27
26.73%
$100—200 dollars
Sometimes (4 days a week or less)
20
19.80%
$200—300 dollars
3
2.97%
Never
9
8.91%
More than 300 dollars
1
0.99%
QUESTION 03: How many cosmetic products do you use every day? Fewer than 5 products
3
2.97%
5-10 products
23
22.77%
11-15 products
74
73.27%
More than 15 products
1
0.99%
QUESTION 03: What are the 3 main reasons you choose the cosmetic products you buy? Advice from in-store consultant
4
3.96%
Quality
71
70.30%
Price
64
63.37%
Packaging
6
5.94%
Efficiency
10
9.90%
Recommendation from friend
13
12.87%
Special offer or promotion
13
12.87%
Brand
35
34.65%
Advertising
3
2.97%
Biologically friendly (anti-allergy, etc)
27
26.73%
Online views
9
8.91%
Organic or healthy label
14
13.86%
Natural ingredients
26
25.74%
Other (please specify)
8
7.92%
QUESTION 05: What forms of advertising will most likely influence you to buy a new cosmetic products?
QUESTION 08: Do you read the ingredients on cosmetic products before you purchase?
TV
26
25.74%
Yes
9
8.9%
Magazine
29
28.71%
Never
69
68.3%
Online
16
15.84%
Sometimes
23
22.8%
Social Media
30
29.70%
QUESTION 06: Do you always use the same products or do you try new products? I use the same products for a long time
32
31.68%
I always try new products
9
8.91%
I do both
60
59.41%
QUESTION 07: Where do you tend to buy your cosmetic products? Department Stores (Macy’s, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom etc.)
11
10.89%
Specialists Stores (Sephora, Ulta etc.)
14
13.86%
Drugstores/Chemists (Walgreens, CVS etc.)
16
15.84%
Super Markets (Safeway, Ralphs, Vons etc.)
1
0.99%
Upscale Supermarket (Whole Foods, Trader Joe’s etc.)
5
4.95%
Other Retail (Target, Walmart etc.)
37
36.63%
Beauty Salons
1
0.99%
Online
9
8.91%
Direct Sales (Avon, Amway, Mary Kay etc.)
2
1.98%
Other (please specify)
5
4.95%
QUESTION 09: Do you make an effort to buy cosmetic products labeled as “organic” or “natural” over conventional products? Yes
30
29.70%
No
28
27.72%
Sometimes
37
36.63%
Very few times
6
5.94%
QUESTION 10: How many of the cosmetic products you currently use contain organic or natural ingredients? All
7
6.93%
Most
24
23.76%
Some
24
23.76%
Very few
14
13.86%
None
7
6.93%
Not Sure
25
24.75%
QUESTION 11: If you saw a cosmetic products labeled as “Made with Organic Ingredients”, what portion of organic ingredients would you expect in that product? All of it
26
25.74%
Nearly all of it
35
34.65%
At least half of it
23
22.77%
Less than half of it
10
9.90%
Not sure
7
6.93%
QUESTION 12: How important is it to you personally that the chemicals used in your cosmetic products are tested and regulated for safety?
QUESTION 16: Can you recognize any chemicals below that used in beauty products have bad influences? Formaldehyde
77
76.24%
Not at all important
5
4.95%
Parabens
49
48.51%
A little important
11
10.89%
Phthalates
22
21.78%
Somewhat important
27
26.73%
Butylated Compounds
11
10.89%
Very important
58
57.43%
Arsenic
69
68.32%
Triclosan
18
17.82%
Ethanolamine Compounds
17
16.83%
Carbon Black
16
15.84%
Coal Tar
39
38.61%
QUESTION 13: Are you aware that there are carcinogens, toxins, and endocrine disruptors in all cosmetic? Yes
49
48.61%
Talc
53
52.48%
No
52
51.49%
Benzophenone & Related Compounds
26
25.74%
Fragrance
42
41.58%
Toluene
17
26.83%
Octinoxate
14
13.86%
PABA
33
32.67%
QUESTION 14: Do you want to know more about this topic? Yes
35
34.65%
No
33
32.67%
Lead
74
73.27%
32.67%
Homosalate
9
8.91%
Methylisothiazolinone
19
18.81%
Mica
19
18.81%
Phenoxyethanol
26
25.74%
Triethanolamine
15
14.85%
Oxybenzone
20
19.8%
Other (please specify)
4
3.96%
Maybe
33
QUESTION 15: If there was an app / website / magazine that would easily rate the toxic level of your cosmetic products would you use it? Yes
65
64.36%
No
14
13.86%
Maybe
22
21.78%
QUESTION 08:
Do you read the ingredients on cosmetic products before you purchase?
YES
8.9%
SOMETIMES
22.8%
NEVER
68.3%
QUESTION 03:
What are the 3 main reasons you choose the cosmetic products you buy?
80
60
40
20
Advice from in-store consultant Quality Price Packaging Efficiency
Recommendation from friend
Special offer or promotion Brand Advertising
Biologically friendly (anti-allergy, etc)
Online views
Organic or healthy label
Natural ingredients Others
38% 38% of respondents said they wear makeup everyday.
46% 46% of respondents said they don’t read ingredients list before they purchase.
73% 73% of respondents said they wear 11-15 products everyday.
51% 51% of respondents said they don’t aware that there are carcinogens, toxins, and endocrine disruptors in all cosmetic.
70% 70% of respondents said quality is the main reason for them to buy those cosmetics.
64% 64% of respondents said they would like to use an app / website / magazine that easily rate the toxic level of their cosmetic products.
QUESTION 16:
If you not read the ingredient list, why do you not read the labels?
Sometimes they are too small of print.
Wouldn’t be able to read and understand most if ingredients in it Because I don’t want to scare myself! I don’t know enough about the ingredients.
Actually I don’t understand what I’m reading,
I just don’t know what Actually I don’t understand what I’m reading,
ingredients are good or bad. So I never read it.
I’m visually impaired. Often the print is too Its kind of “ignorance is bliss” since there are so many chemicals.
small. I just don’t buy what i can’t read.
Never really thought about it. I suppose I should staet consider.
QUESTION 21:
Do you have any other thoughts please share with me.
Thank you for investigating the toxins we are exposed to. I have always been conscious of this, but a year ago I was diagnosed with It would be helpful to know what
Organic as a designation doesn’t carry
breast cancer and have really tried
percentage of ingredients have to be
much weight with me by itself. “100%
to limit the toxins I am exposed to.
organic to get a label.
Organic” presents some impact with
It is hard to do this.
some products, but otherwise no more than describing a product as “handcrafted” or “artisan.”
I think consumers should be more Too much grey areas inwhich
aware of what we put on and into their bodies. We deserve to know.
products may claim to be organic. I think that the ingredients in personal care products should be better stated.
No one cares to look at labels because they can’t understand what the ingredients are
As crazy as it sounds I have had a lot of allergic reactions to products labeled “organic” which has actually led me to use my non-organic
I think that there needs to be a scale
products that are labeled non-aller-
at which cosmetics are allowed to
genic or sensitive skin.
advertise (i.e. green organic, blue organic, yellow organic, etc) based on the amount of organic product/methods used.
004
Insights
1.
Most people don’t know about the chemicals in their personal care products.
2.
Most people don’t think twice about the chemicals they put on their bodies, because they believe that the government regulates all personal care products.
3.
Labels are not always helpful.
4.
No one likes to look at labels because they can’t understand what the ingredients are.
5.
Information about toxic chemicals is not specific and helpful.
6.
Lack regulation of personal care products in United States.
7.
People only pay attention to the serious health problems.
8.
“Most are felt to be in too tiny of quantity to pose any real risk. But sometimes very small exposures can have large impact.”
9.
People are blind to the fact that many of the ingredients in their favorite personal care products are extremely harmful.
10. Feedback mechanism affects people’s behaviors. 11. Most people easily believe that famous and expensive brands are safer and more effective. 12. An educated consumer is a healthier consumer. 13. The promise of a “green” or “organic” product is no guarantee. 14. Most people will check the ingredients list on food products but not on personal care products. 15. You can absorb more toxins from personal care products than from food. 16. Young women want more information about the ingredients in their personal care products. 17. Consumer pressure can convince companies and government to take responsiblity for people’s health. 18. People don’t change their behavior without incentive.
005
Strategy chart
Outcome:
Help women reduce the usage of toxic chemicals in cosmetics. Audience:
My target audience is 25—30 young professional females. The secondary audience is girls from 18—25, who wear makeup everyday.
Insight 01
Insight 02
Insight 03
People are unaware of toxic chemicals in their cosmetics
There is little transparency in labeling personal care products. That make finding safer alternative become a huge challange and there has no real helpful tool for consumers to get information easily.
Lack regulation of cosmetics in United States. EU has banned 1371 chemicals used in personal care products, but FDA only banned 11.
Strategy 01
Strategy 02
Strategy 03
Rising awareness of the toxic chemicals in our daily cosmetics. Make this problem visable and let them pay attention.
Provide reliable information to preventing toxic chemicals related health problems, empowers and educates the consumer on the cosmetics industry by allowing them to make an informed decision on what products to purchase.
Build a new design system and guidance for nutrition labels and symbols in personal care products based on EU's policy.
Deliverables 01
Strategy 02
Strategy 03
Beauty Magazine
UI/UX Design
Ingredients System
A beauty magazine provide ranking and recommendation of healthier personal care products, this little beauty magazine will inside fashion magazine per 3 months.
This app can scan products and get the ingredients system that I created to get understandable information. App will also provide rewards to motivate people check more of their products.
To advocate for consumer protection I will create an new design system and guidance for nutrition labels and symbols.
0
3
Identity & Visual Development 001_ LOGO DEVELOPMENT 002_ VISUAL STANDARD 003_ ILLUSTRATION DEVELOPMENT 004_ APP DEVELOPMENT 005_ USER FEEDBACK 006_ MAGAZINE DEVELOPMENT
The next step after I had defined a clear objective for my thesis was to research and explore as much as I could in order to deliver an effective design solution for the problem. The purpose of the research was to find out more about the topic and its related issues. In the early stage of my project, I worked on research at the same time as ideation development and designexplorations. It involved a lot of reading, investigation and sketching. To speak to my real audience, I did using testing and prototyping of my design deliverables. It was a long process for me. However, I did gain insights that were key for this project during my research journey.