ISSUE FOUR FEBRUARY 2011 HUBEN HUBENOV EDITOR IN CHIEF / FASHION DIRECTOR hubenov@giamagazine.com SLAV EDITOR IN CHIEF / CREATIVE DIRECTOR slav@giamagazine.com
DEPUTY EDITOR VASIL SHTEREV shterev@giamagazine.com EDITORS ANNA WARD ward@giamagazine.com SVETOSLAV PETROV petrov@giamagazine.com YANA GEROVA gerova@giamagazine.com
SPECIAL GUEST EDITOR RADOSLAV BLAGOEV
contributors garderob hannah richtan hristina traikova inga ilieva krassimir dimitrov lazar goushev ryan ferguson silvia bratanova vasil germanov whalen bryce
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4 FEBRUARY 6 POP 10 MEN TRENDS: MILAN AND PARIS MENSWEAR 16 EDITORIAL: OLFACTIVE 22 COMMENTARY: OCCUPATION: MALE MODEL 24 A DAY OF: DENIS 28 INTERVIEW: JARRID BERNIER 30 INTERVIEW: NOMA HAN 32 EDITORIAL: DARK BOY 40 BLOGGER: CRAIG AREND 42 COMMENTARY: HOW I LOVED THE MODELS 44 BEAUTY: ONE IN FIVE 52 FEATURE: GOLDEN GIRLS 54 EDITORIAL: MADAME 66 COMMENTARY: BEAUTY MISFITS 68 EDITORIAL: EVERYTHING NEW 84 INTERVIEW: RADOSLAV BLAGOEV 88 RAW MODELS 116 COMMENTARY: BEYOND MODELING 120 EDITORIAL: THE OTHER 136 EDITORIAL: I’M NOT THAT GIRL
for everything else contact@giamagazine.com
lilyana gergishanova is photographed by lazar and is wearing vintage jacket max mara, sweater max mara, trousers valentino and shoes giambattista vali. styling by huben hubenov, hair and makeup slav for max factor
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Tao says goodbye with her spring 2011 collection. Well, not exactly, but according to the press-office 'Tao Kurihara wants to change her lifestyle and focus her creative energy on the label Tricot Comme Des Garcons, that is presented in Tokyo, twice a year.' Everything with it's right time. We remind you that Tao started working for Comme Des Garcons in 1997 (right after graduating at Central Saint Martin's), under the wing of Junya Watanabe, up until 2005 when she founded the line bearing her name.
Tough luck for Cerruti. First, they were acquired by the Chinese company Li & Fung and now they are forced to shut down their womenswear line. Representatives of the Italian fashion house stated that the decision was a result of new management's desire to focus their efforts on menswear. 'We prefer not to spread ourselves too thin in a field that is highly competitive' explained Florent Perrichon, CEO of the brand. Enjoy Richard Nicoll's last collection for Cerruti, this March. And wave good-bye!
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He made us proud, watching him at Berlin Fashion Week. Really. His collection questions all principles of gravity (and those, concerning the critics' opinions, who were mostly: 'Not to miss!'). Vladimir's new models are a logical continuation of his previous work, based on complex construction, asymmetrical silhouettes, elaborate drapes and cuts, and the lack of hems of any kind. And the darkness has been tamed again, thanks to muted blue, olive green, smoky grey and brown. You can follow Vladi at www.vladimirkaraleev.com
If you didn't know – those guys work at the French fashion house On Aura Tout Vu, and for yet another year, with the Portuguese Andre de sa Pesoa, they presented their ideas at Haute Couture Fashion Week in Paris, and they don't think that anything can be in surplus. After their fish-shaped bags, this time their remarkable sense of humor offered us a unicornbride and a crystal bird-nest-slash-collar (perhaps we'll see it soon on Lady Gaga, she's already a fan of the brand). For more equally fun stuff log on to www.onauratoutvu.com
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This month we pay respect to Bill Cunningham, lust over the haunting music of Anna Calvi and finally review an interesting book with fashion illustrations from the last hundred years. You can also check out the new album of Hercules & Love Affair – Blue Songs. The band have returned with a new line-up and the same infectious take on disco. Another guy we are looking forward to seeing live is Theophilus London. His Lovers Holiday EP is out on February the 8th. But we've always thought there’s more in life than music. Google is once again on the forefront of innovation and would like to invite you on a journey through the best art galleries in the world, free of charge. Art Project, at www.googleartproject.com. February is also the month for the release of I am Number Four – a new blockbuster about an alien, trying to escape from his pursuers on Earth. The alien in question is Alex Pettyfer, model by heart and profession. Plan your summer holiday early on and you could be among the many happy people, who will attend EXIT festival in July and listen to Portishead, Arcade Fire and Tiga. And that’s only what has been announced till now. Expect much more great acts. Speaking of great acts, JD Samson’s new band MEN have just released their debut album Talk About Body, Cut Copy are to follow with Zonoscope.
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Long before Scott Schuman and Tommy Ton thought about doing some street style photography as a hobby and career, Bill Cunningham was already cruising the New York streets, and he’s been doing it for the last fifty years. He is one of the rare street photographers, who has always been fascinated by culture and clothes, not the celebrities who wear them. ‘Bill Cunningham New York’ is a delicate, funny and often poignant portrait of a dedicated and extremely private and elusive artist whose only wealth is his own humanity and unassuming grace. In the words of Anna Wintour: 'We all get dressed for Bill.' ‘Bill Cunningham New York’ opens March 16 . www.billcunninghamnewyork.com
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The beautiful Anna Calvi seems to be one of the early but not quite unexpected contenders for great album of 2011. She has been steadily growing on the scene in the last year and a half and has secured a devoted following and respect from heavy-hitters like Brian Eno and Nick Cave. Calvi’s eponymously titled debut album blends her fantastic deep and haunting voice with intimate blues guitar, heavy rock riffs and luscious melodies, while at the same time she looks like a flamenco-inspired femme fatale, playing live in one of David Lynch’s underground bars. Calvi is all red-lipstick, high-waisted trousers and bun hair and can seduce you only by looking and listening to her music. Till now she has drawn comparison to PJ Harvey, mostly for her sharing production duties on the album with the latter’s producer Rob Ellis. The heartful songs and gloomy atmosphere have their background. ‘Locked away in a basement, making an album in isolation, you do start going a bit crazy. So a lot of material came out of that – how to survive the making of this monster that took over three years of my life.’ Anna’s self-titled debut album is about lust and
love, devils, and a new take on Lynchian dramatic surrealism. ‘It’s a record about the internal forces in life which are out of your control and can take you over, and how you survive them. It explores intimacy, passion and loneliness. There is an element of darkness to the record but there is also a sense of hope. This album is the culmination of my whole life up until now.’ And she has done a pretty great job in conveying that feeling. From an early age Calvi has been exposed to bands like Captain Beefheart, The Rolling Stones, along with her everlasting love for Maria Callas and classical music and composers like Messiaen, Ravel and Debussy. To see all those influences result in a beautiful, passionate, sexual and profoundly deep record seems rewarding. In the words of Guardian, a scary force and beautiful restraint. What more can we want from art?
Anna Calvi’s debut album is out now, and she’s currently on a massive European tour. Check out her forthcoming dates at www.annacalvi.com
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‘Drawing Fashion’ is the new book of Holly Brubach (a journalist, who has written for Vogue and The New Yorker) and the British fashion legend, commentator and main man behind the Fashion Fringe competition for young designers - Colin McDowell. These days we all seem to have forgotten that fashion drawing is inseparable part of the design process and they remind us. Brubach and McDowell’s book features a valuable collection of some of the most remarkable fashion illustrations from the last two centuries. Among the represented collections are those from Chanel, Dior, Comme des Garcons, Paul Poiret, Victor & Rolf, Christian Lacroix and Alexander
McQueen. Even if you haven’t heard of them, please pay close attention to the work of Lepape at the beginning of the century, Gruau in the 40's and 50's, Antonio throughout the 60s, 70s and 80s, to current artists Mats Gustafson, Aurore de La Morinerie and Francois Berthoud. Drawing Fashion accompanies an exhibition at the Design Museum in London. In a world of high and polished fashion images and numerous campaigns, the pure simplicity and beauty of fashion drawings is a real breath of fresh air. You can order ‘Drawing Fashion’ at www.prestel.txt.de
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This month instead of the regular 'trend report', we decided to take a look at something else – the menswear trends for fall 2011. As you know January was all about the Men Fashion Weeks (well, and the Couture shows, but that's a different story) in Milan and Paris. We saw a lot of good and bad, boring and fun menswear that was going down the runways on the
bodies of some of the most beautiful men on Earth. Naturally some very strong trends emerged from all that, and that's what we are going to show you on the next pages. Without any comment, just pure designer orders. Will you obey?
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Salon Olfactive is a place in downtown Sofia, that we featured one way or another since our first issue. Basically, it’s a perfume shop, but, well, it’s not. It’s a place to lose yourself, indulging in olfactory pleasures. It’s a place to find yourself through the scent that completes you. It’s a place where you can steal a minute of your everyday life to do an improvised aromatherapy. And it’s a place, where you want everything, and you can have it.
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The fashion industry has its face and body impersonated by the models – these semi-goddesses and gods with their perfect bodies. And it seems that they live in a dream – all about the glamour, the runway, the nice clothes, the attention of the crowds, and the flashes of the cameras... But just as with every profession they are facing many challenges hidden behind the stage – diets, exhausting workouts, eating disorders, and competition at a rate that a mere mortal cannot even begin to imagine. But in the otherwise trying-to-be politically correct world, the fashion industry is not gender equal. On the surface the life of the male model seems similar in many aspects to the life of the female one. Taking retrospective look starting with the 90s – former models like Mark Vanderloo and Marcus Schenkenberg, that looked like Ken dolls, have reached supermodel status. Soon after, a BrazilianCuban trend emerged thanks in part to Bruce Weber, and after that the Grunge look was trendy for a while. Since then, a ‘healthier’ image standard has returned, though the look varies from label to label – just think of the Dolce and Gabbana’s macho men and the
Dior Homme’s androgynous boys. Even though there are trends in terms of male model image, and there’s always demand for new and exciting faces, just like with the girls, the truth is that guys make much less than their female counterparts. Let’s see the figures. Beginner models can earn up to $150 per shoot and from $8,000-$15,000 per day for high-end catalogue work, and the more established and famous male models make at least $500,000 per year. That does not sound so bad, right? But their female colleagues can make about $300,000 to $2 million per year, two to three times the rate of male models for the same work. And suddenly it all gets different and unfair. Welcome to the hard knock life of the male models, where the glass ceiling is simply unbreakable. Why this paradox exists and fashion is the only industry in the world where women make more than men? One could argue that due to the lower profitability of the men’s high-fashion brands the remuneration of the male models should be
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lower. But in the last decades, with the rise of metrosexuality the demand for men’s fashion both for clothes and cosmetics has increased tremendously. Perhaps it’s not enough, because despite this, the discrimination against the male models persists. Imagine going to a job interview that lasts only a second and you cannot speak. After just one look from the casting director you are dismissed, even if you look impeccable. The pressure is huge, even unbearable, especially when you’re competing with friends with whom you share a room and not very nutritious menu /not because you’re on a diet, you’re just broke/. It happens that five-six boys live in one room in order to pay the rent. And in the end of the day they are the only family that you have, because you are 17 and you’re miles away from home. You also, at some point, face the stepping stone, or obstacle depending on the point of view, – the rich old ladies and gentlemen that offer money and fame if you sell, literary, your body. It’s up to you to decide, but they are powerful guys who can make you or break you. When you can barely cover the basic expenses this seems like a very good option, but isn’t it a one-way street on the road to doom? Just after all that crap, you have the chance of becoming one of those really famous and well-paid
models. But you should forget about the happily ever after. Because for a model, living and working in a world too closely linked to youth, it seems like life ends at 22. Men may grow older more beautifully but if you don’t have the six-pack or the boyish look – you’re nobody. No matter how good-looking you are, it’s just gone. The castle’s made of sand, and it takes a lot of personal vigor and motivation to give your best for a career so ungrateful, short, and badly paid. Still, there’s hope – if you can survive this and you look good as a model, then you’re really a semi-god. But the mortals are much, much more. In 2010, we have witnessed several suicides of popular male models. Like the 24-year-old Ambrose Olsen who committed suicide by hanging. Or Tom Nicon, who participated in fashion campaigns for Burberry, Louis Vuitton, Versace and Hugo Boss, and who died instantly after falling four floors from his apartment window. And the outside world and the press quite often doesn’t acknowledge that dark side of the otherwise brightly shining moon. Instead of conclusion, let’s just cite the controversial character of Derek Zoolander: ‘A male model’s life is a precious, precious commodity.’
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I saw Denis for the first time in the Domestic Solitude editorial and video in the January issue of GIA. As a person who has been interested in the careers of some of the best models in the world for years, I instantly realized that this guy has a potential.
That’s why, when I found out that he is going to be in Milan for Men Fashion Week, I decided to spend a day with him, and follow first hand the working process of the model. After a few phone calls we made an appointment – 10 o’clock on January 14.
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Our first stop is Denis' agency, Independent Men, where he has to get his casting list for today, just like every other day. First on the list is a familiar address – via Palermo, casting for Iceberg. I know where's that and I save Denis looking it up on the map. We arrive at the address and there's already a queue of tall and handsome boys, each of them holding his book. Denis' book looks quite good – beautiful editorials and advertising campaigns, which makes an impression on the casting directors and they dress him up for a polaroid. That's a good sign – they like him, and he has a chance for being in the show, which, unfortunately, is equal to the chance of not being there. That's exactly one of the things that Denis is still getting used to – that you never know what's going to happen.
We take on to the next casting, which we have to look up on the map. On the way there Denis tells me about his start as a model. He started doing it as something fun, three years ago, when a friend of his, a model, saw his potential and took him to meet her booker. The agency, on the other hand, sent him to Milan. It was a big disappointment for Denis, because the promised 'luxury life' was actually a tiny model flat and a small bed with no sheets... Now, since his mother agency in Bulgaria is Ivet Fashion, things are looking good, and he feels that Italy is his place.
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It's already noon and Denis offers to have lunch at McDonald's, but after a short lecture on healthy food, I convince him to look for an alternative. So we buy freshly made sandwiches, where he shows me his empty wallet. The money, that Denis makes, go mainly for covering his expenses in Milan, his travel and pocket money, just like any other emerging model. But that doesn't get him down, it motivates him to patiently wait for the 'big job' that will raise his price.
On the way to the next casting, Denis tells me how hard it was in the beginning. Up until the moment he got 'that phone call' from his agent, telling him that he is booked for a Duvetica campaign. Two hours after that, he's already shooting with an American model, and in the next day he's on his way to Venice – a four star hotel and a premium service. Denis tastes the true flavor of modeling, and he likes it! Soon after that, he shoots the Gaudi campaign, and that gives him further confidence that he's going in the right direction.
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After a day full of castings – Iceberg, John Richmond, Moschino, Enrico Coveri and Bally, we are now back at the agency, where a casting for a London and a New York agency is taking place, so all the boys are there. We don't stick around much longer, because it's almost five o'clock and Denis has his Gucci fitting in about twenty minutes. So we go directly there, and I say goodbye for now. I am extremely tired, but I know that this is the everyday life of a model, and of Denis.
I called Denis the next day and he told me that the Gucci fitting went very well, and he's going to be in the show. I was enthusiastic about that success, of course, since Gucci is one of the best to walk for. The only thing I wished him was to see his face more often on the pages of the best magazines and on even more advertising campaigns. Because he deserves it!
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Few months back, Jarrid Antonio Bernier was a name that didn’t ring any bells. But after the twentieth issue of VMAN, where he was featured in a military fashion story by Hedi Slimane and Collier Schorr, Jarrid is around the top of our wet-dream list. Turns out, that the raw looking masculine beauty is also quite the sweetheart. Tell us a little bit more about yourself and your model debut? Well, I’m a country boy, born and raised in Florida, and have been modeling for quite some time. I started off at 15 as a fitness model and over the last 3-4 years shaped my body to attack the world of fashion. My debut was something like a dream come true, such an overwhelming sense of accomplishment came over me while on the set with Hedi and Collier. Who is your favorite designer and photographer? My favorite designer would have to be Calvin Klein. I love the all american look and tastefull themes of his ads. As for photographers I’m stuck between Hedi Slimane and Collier Schorr - two totally different styles, but both were amazing and I’d work with them any day. Do you think that you’ve learned more about fashion? Fashion is definitely something I don’t know enough about. Since my career is just starting, it’s all kind of new to me. I feel that over time I will learn more about it. What do you do in your free time? I appreciate the beach and enjoy the sun, I work out,
and enjoy Florida’s nightlife to the fullest. Does having a career as a model, or in fashion, makes finding a girlfriend more easy? When it comes to modeling, I feel that it makes finding a girlfriend much more difficult. You never know if a person values who you truly are, or if its just because you are a model. I’ve found that in times like these you wish for your old highschool sweetheart to come walking back through the door. Do you believe in true love? True love is something I do believe in, I feel as I grow older both mentally and physically, I realize what I truly value in others. I have been in love once before with a wonderful girl from New York and she still holds the key to my heart and my mind, even though we are separated. Experiencing this made me believe that there is that one special person for everyone. What will you do after modelling? My goal is to become an actor, or to serve in the Armed Forces. Either would carry me to a new and different level of success, so I feel it will be a great learning experience. As for now I love modeling and can’t wait to land a big campaign or a billboard somewhere and to try and reach the top of the modeling scene.
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If you follow the menswear scene you surely know who Noma Han is. If you don’t, however, you need to know that he is that funny guy who walked for Y-3, Richard Chai, Duckie Brown and General Idea, shot for Interview, Nylon, Fiasco, Vogue Hommes Japan and appeared on the fall/winter 2010-2011 campaigns of United Colors of Benetton and Hilfiger Denim.
And what did you do? I just said ‘Yes.’ But deeply inside my mind I felt really happy.
So are you happy you are back to New York after the fashion weeks? Yeah, I'm so happy!
Yeah, seems like you just enjoy life, don't you? I do but the fact that I'm a person means that sometimes I get mad about my life.
Did you actually move to New York for the modeling or for something else at first? First time I came here as a visitor and got into the industry by sending pictures.
Mad about things like... Just life. I don't know. Boredom or things like that.
Do models actually take care of their image? Or most are just natural, going with the flow... I think they do. But I don't care about my image. I just show my personality.
Oh, and by the way what is the backpack I often see you wearing on your photos? It's from Bess.
Why did you want to get into fashion? I studied in a fashion design school and I saw a bunch of Korean models. It looked awesome to me so I tried to become a model in Korea but it didn't work. So I actually gave up. But when I came to New York I was kind of excited and had nothing to lose. That’s why I tried and… it worked.
It’s probably the best backpack I've seen. Tell me about your tattoos. How many you've got? I have five.
Feels like you showed the middle finger to the agencies in Korea, no? Hmmm no. I wasn't actually like this haha. I was calm and quiet.
Do you do anything else besides modeling? Go to school.
And which is your favorite one? All of them. I designed bunch of them, which is awesome, so I can't name one as my favorite.
Studying what? English, sir.
What is the weirdest or most embarrassing thing that happened to you during work? It’s actually when I saw a female model’s naked body for the first time. That was really uncomfortable but it was kind of good to see. Now I get used to it.
Oh, right. Do you actually go back to South Korea often or not at all? I barely go there.
What about your girlfriend? Is she a model too? No, she is not a model. But she's lovely!
So where do you see yourself in, let’s say, 20 years? Where do I see myself? Hmm… in New York.
Sure she is. Did anyone ever recognize you on the streets? You know… screaming your name after you? Nope. But someone once asked me ‘Are you Noma?’, or something like that.
www.justnoma.blogspot.com
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photography vasil germanov / thinktanklab styling garderob model petar
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When did you start your blog and why? June 2007. After taking a vacation in Paris and experimenting with street photography in spring of 2006, I waited a year to start altamira. At the time I was dating a wardrobe stylist, so that catalyzed my interest as well. What was your first post? 'New York City Street Style: Soho', two photos, both taken with a point and click camera that is so broken down now, it may as well be in a history museum. Do you consider yourself a fashion lover, or just model lover? Both! I live for fashion. I absolutely adore clothes but have more of a vested career interest in the modeling industry. Is there a model you have not photographed yet that you would love to photograph? Yes! Claudia Schiffer! Who is your favourite model? Frida Gustavsson. I think I have 20+ posts of her on my blog. Do you see the difference between a model and a topmodel? A supermodel has staying power and celebrity status. They are household names and recognized for their beauty beyond the narrow focus of the modeling and fashion industries. A model can be big in fashion and modeling, but if she's not recognized outside of either industry, she's not a supermodel, at least in my humble opinion. What do you think of the modeling business, and the fashion in general? While modeling and fashion are two separate industries, their relationship is symbiotic. The focus of the fashion industry is the profit of designers, which are sold through the modeling industry's editorial portfolios, commercial portfolios, runway lineups, personal style of the
models, and personality of the models. The more all these ingredients come together harmoniously for both industries, the more revenue is generated for both industries. What do you think of all that accusations that fashion, and models in general, promote an unhealthy image? It depends on what you mean by unhealthy. Some of it is true and to be honest, the press that comes from some of it has benefitted the careers of some famous models as it creates a certain media notoriety. The negative repurcussions regarding aneroxia and bulimia cannot be overemphasized though. Do you like to shoot something else, besides models? I do like to shoot editors, stylists, and general people that look good. I do this for clients during fashion month. Plus, I'm an avid photographer anyway, it's like I'm compelled to take pictures all the time. Describe your personal style? When not shooting, my personal style is androgynous meaning it could work for both a girl or a guy. What is your equipment? Canon EOS 5D Mark II Tell us about your upcoming projects? Hmmm, that's a loaded question! I'm doing work with modeling agencies now and have some stuff with Italian Vogue.com planned for after fashion month.
www.modelsoffduty.com
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It’s high time I confess. I tried to love models, but they are not like normal people. Models, as in female models, lovely under-aged or fully blossomed girls, etc. I choose them first because I am straight (thank God for that, apologies to all my gay friends), and second, how could you possibly not fall in love with each and every beautiful creature that loses all inhibitions and poses semi-naked in front of your camera while you try to capture the moment and eventually get rid of her impatience and bad mood? Female models might come in different shapes or forms but they always work for me. I love how they learn to exploit their good looks in no time through the years. Yes, I know it’s a hard work, all the traveling and ‘they treat me like a piece of meat’ complaints, but you get paid, bitches, a lot. You’d better work hard, stay away from grumbling and thank the God who blessed you with beauty that can land a thousand ships. Female models can be the epitome of world history in one shot, then your lover in the next, then the
girl next door and your best friend’s sister, then the impossible dream you will never learn how to seduce. But have in mind that the best models are those with personality, the ones you remember after various incarnations and who always strike you with a clear, but modest perspective on life. Like Lara, who was young and constantly drunk, but eventually learned how to contain herself, married a British comedian and earned the world with her fierce looks, incredible tits and curvaceous body. Or Daria, who ruled runways, advertising campaigns and photo shoots several years ago and then decided to hide and learn how to canoe. Or even take the angry bitch Naomi, who was only seventeen when she became the first black model on the cover of Vogue Paris and later landed a role in court for assault charges. More than once. Or Helena, who was one of the first supermodels in
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the end of the 80’s and beginning of 90’s, frolicked almost naked with Chris Isaak on the beach, inspired the late Michael Hutchence and finally found her love in making pictures, not just posing for them. But it’s more than the personality, attitude and incredible ability to act in different roles that I love about models. It’s their insatiable curious gasp and desire to learn everything, that fascinates you in the beginning just before you realize that they have already seen that, been there, fucked someone smarter and more handsome than you and are not interested in general. It’s then you learn to trust your instincts and be real. In other words you accept the bitter truth you just might not be worth it. It can be great to love models for a short period of time, because most of them are just around the corner and it’s up to you to decide whether to try and spend your day or some months with a lovely girl who might turn out to be smart. And I assure you,
they have a lot to tell – about all the books they have read while waiting for castings and on shoots, about all the dishes they have cooked while living in badly lit model flat in the middle of somewhere, about all the funny or dumb stories for the men and women in their lives or just boost your ego when you go out to dance at night. Maybe models are just like normal girls. But they are just more beautiful. I loved models. Not only because I worked with them, tried to sleep with few of them, became friends with one or two, got lost in their charming beauty and incredible bodies, eyes, tits, always in moderation. But eventually I learned to look right next to me and fall in love with someone normal, who is also a special kind of beauty – usually dark-haired, sultry, curvaceous, smart, young, confident and a girl of a few words. At the end of the day, it’s all because of her. And she’s real.
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photography vasil germanov / thinktanklab makeup slav for max factor models elizabeth, iva, raina, anastasia at ivet fashion, nataly at visages
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'The Oscar goes to... Lara Stone!' Sounds like science fiction, right? Perhaps the same was thought for Jessica, Anjelica, Charlize... But it's a fact that the girls in question managed to continue their
successful (or not that successful) modeling careers as actresses. We won't discuss the prejudice and cliches about the models, we're just going to expose the facts.
Jessica Lange, born 1949, began her modeling career, after being discovered by the fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez in 1973. She worked for three years for Wilhelmina Models in New York, up until Dino De Laurentis offered her the leading female part in King Kong, in 1976. Jessica was nominated for the Academy Award six times, and won it two – for Blue Sky and Tootsie.
Anjelica Huston, born 1951, started as a model when she's eighteen and quickly became one of the muses of the seventies. She worked with photographers like Richard Avedon, Helmut Newton and Bob Richardson. Anjelica won an Oscar for her movie Prizzi's, and was nominated two times – for Enemies, a Love Story and The Grifters.
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Kim Basinger is born in 1953. In 1969 she signed with Ford Modelin Agency. She was one of the most successful models of her generation, commanding the colossal at that time $1000 a day. In 1967 Kim began acting in the television series ‘Charlie’s Angels’. In 1984 she won a Golden Globe for The Natural, and in 1997 she added another one – for L.A. Confidential, which brought her an Oscar, too.
Sharon Stone, born 1970, began modeling for Ford Modeling Agency in 1977, and made a successful commercial career with numerous television and print ads. In 1980 she broke with modeling and debuted in Woody Allen’s movie Stardust Memories. Sharon is a Golden Globe winner for Casino, and was nominated for an Academy Award for the same role.
Uma Thurman, born 1970, became a model at fifteen and signed with Cilck Models. The same year, 1985, she appeared on the cover of British Vogue and the December supplement of the same magazine. In 1988 Uma broke into cinema, starring in Terry Gilliam’s The Adventures of Baron Munchausen. She was awarded with a Golden Globe for Hysterical Blindness.
Charlize Theron, born in 1975, had a short career as a model. When she was sixteen, she traveled to Milan for modeling, and after to New York, where she worked with Pauline’s Model Managament. Her acting career began in 1994, when she moved to Los Angeles. Charlize won an Oscar in 2003 for her role in Monster.
photography lazar styling huben hubenov hair and makeup slav for max factor model lilyana gergishanova vintage clothes by ecru
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Some consider fashion as an exclusive club the entry to which is granted only to the good-looking skinny bitches. In a world of perfectionism, where the look and how the others see you and perceive you is of utmost importance, often deviance is not tolerated. But is this true? Is the fashion industry zero-tolerant to models with unconventional beauty and far from perfect body proportions? Before embarking on this, let me try to clear something out. What is beauty? When can you call a person physically mesmerizing? The first thing that comes to most people's minds is a tall, slim, young woman with attractive facial features and eyes that transfix you. Or maybe, it is a curved and voluptuous woman with an hourglass silhouette. The more the people, the more different are the opinions. Besides, the definition of beauty changes through the ages. In his book 'On Beauty' Umberto Eco writes, 'Beauty has never been absolute and immutable but has taken on different aspects depending on the historical period and the country.' In ancient Greece it was a sign of beauty in a woman to have a pale complexion, achieved by a thick layer of make-up (mostly poisonous white lead); during the Renaissance the well-rounded 'Venus of Urbino' was the last word in female beauty; and we currently worship models with very slim figure, who are less approachable, stone-faced, and even angry. But masses love their idols to be inaccessible, so the industry simply obeys the rules. It's imbalanced to talk about beauty without mentioning ugliness. Can ugliness be defined merely as the opposite of beauty? I don't think that this is
the case. Nonetheless, no matter how painful it is to admit but not every single human being is physically attractive. Science has found that the human mind is genetically predisposed to find attractive the symmetrical proportions of the face and the body. It's no wonder that due to this, we would prefer to see skinny models with handsome features in the magazines compared to even slightly overweight models. Please remember this the next time you criticize the models for making you look fat and ugly. It is your brain, sorry. Fashion is mainly a visual art so it's completely natural the models to be eye pleasing. That fact was mostly evident in the late eighties and early nineties with the emergence of the supermodels – tall, healthy-looking and classically beautiful. But in the last decades we see lots of models with unconventional beauty. The real breakthrough came with the iconic nineties supermodel Kristen McMenamy. When she was a young model trying to make it, Eileen Ford told her it would never happen unless she had extensive plastic surgery that would correct her weird look. Thank goodness, she is not the type that follows advices. In 1993, she stormed the fashion world when she shaved off her eyebrows and that was the beginning of the end of the beauty cliche. During that time that was truly revolutionary and having an androgynous look with bleached eyebrows in the company of Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington and Linda Evangelista wasn't very easy. Kristen stayed true to herself and she was not afraid to get totally naked when once was criticized as being too fat for Versace runaway. Now, in her late forties with her
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natural gray hair she is raiding back the runways and shooting editorial after editorial, and last month she closed the Chanel Couture show in a bridal gown. Kristen paved the way for a whole new generation of girls with peculiar looks. The list is very long, but here are some of the most notable examples: the punk model Omahyra Mota, the transsexual model-of-themoment Lea T, Iris Strubegger - the Austrian native with her short hair and killer cheekbones, Ranya Mordanova - with her tomboyish look coupled with swanlike neck. Some fashionistas consider these odd beauties as the anti-supermodels, the avant-garde answer of the industry to the consumerism and the glitter that sparkles from the supermodels. The other group of unconventional beauties consists of the so-called gap-toothed models. In the February 2009 issue of Vogue Paris, Carine Roitfeld put Lara Stone on the cover and as the sole model in the magazine. That made Stone omnipresent, and started a trend like no other. In 2010, thanks to the great demand for her look there was an increased interest of the industry towards blonde, gap-toothed, biglipped models like Lindsey Wixson, Georgia May Jagger, and Ashley Smith. And one of the contestant's in the last season of America's Next Top Model had her natural tooth gap widened even more. Amid the biggest criticism against the fashion world is its obsession with the weight. Trying to be politically correct, the industry introduced the plus-
size models, and thanks to that Crystal Renn became the most successful amongst them. She published her autobiography with plus-size title 'Hungry: A Young Model's Story of Appetite, Ambition and the Ultimate Embrace of Curves'. In order to be completely honest we must admit that we have the occasional nods to the slightly oversized models but the industry will never accept them sincerely. At the moment Renn is not-so-plus-size model. It turns out that there are lost of unorthodoxies from the standard stereotype of a model. Have we become tired of the conventional beauty? Definitely not, but even fashion follows some of the trends of the society. Nowadays, the individual that is distinguished from the crowd is what we are aspiring for. Model agents look for girls who are unique and stand out. They aim for models who have 'presence'. Presence is a certain aura that makes you outstanding from everyone else in the room. Presence can make otherwise unattractive features look interesting and intriguing. I cannot help but wonder, have we evolved to a phase where the uniformity and the stereotypical, boring beauty are in the past? For the time being this still continues to be a well-intended wish but we are heading into the right direction. Where, if you have a flaw it can be turned into an asset that can differentiate you from the rest and make you the next supermodel.
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photography vasil germanov / thinktanklab styling inga ilieva / thinktanklab hair and makeup hristina traikova models yuliana, olga at visages, anita, tsvetana at ivet fashion, silvia at maxx agency vintage clothes from ecru
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Radoslav is the guest editor of this issue of GIA. He is a long time model addict and collector of one of the world’s biggest supermodels. He is also addicted to making photographs of models at backstages and after catwalk shows during Fashion Week. We met him to tell us first hand about all this. When did you start collecting models? My first passion was Madonna in 1986. Along with collecting her photographs I started buying fashion magazines and began to notice the models in them – Linda, Christy... The first that made a great impression on me was Linda Evangelista. And at some point I lost interest in Madonna, I just realized that fashion is my world, all those beautiful pictures with beautiful women... Who are the models you collect? I started with Linda, Shalom Harlow, Kristen McMenamy and Nadja Auermann. After them came Carmen Kass and Gisele Bundchen, and now I added Tatjana Patitz, Karen Elson, Daria Werbowy and Anja Rubik. How do you define yourself? As a model addict or a collector? As a collector. Although, buying magazines, going on fashion shows, and being interested that much in the modeling world, makes me see the others, not only those who I collect. But them... It's like being in love, they overwhelm my mind, I
want to have every photo of them... What includes your collection? Covers, editorials, catalogues. Catalogues are the hardest to find. And I recorde for few years the catwalks on Fashion TV... Everything I can get my hands on! But mostly magazines. Whose collection is most complete? All of them, I am completely devoted to that hobby of mine. Worldwide speaking, my collection is one of the best. I have 742 covers of Gisele only. Over 300 of Linda, and almost all of Carmen's covers. I still miss some things, even though in my first travel to Paris in 2007, I spent over 1500 euro in magazines, filling holes from the eighties and the nineties. Every time I go there, I buy something that was missing. It seems like an endless collection... Well, no, I don't think so. The problem is that there are things that are impossible to find. For instance, in the beginning of their career, models do very strange jobs in very strange countries, that you just can't find. Can you evaluate such collection? No, it's priceless for me. For you, yes, but if you have to sell it some day... Is there a market for that? Only amongst collectors. But I don't think I would sell anything, I have a long term relationship with my
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collection, it's a 'till death do us part' thing (laughs). Although, there's some business in it, I constantly buy and sell on eBay for instance... When was the first time you shot after shows? In 2007. We planned it with a friend of mine, who was already doing it for few seasons in a row, in Paris and Milan, he met models and he took photos with them, That drove me crazy, looking at the pictures, and that became my new dream – not only to collect my models, but to meet them in person. The personal contact gives a whole new experience. Who surprised you the most, from the ones you collect, in positive and negative aspect? I've only met three of the models I collect – Carmen, Linda and Anja. Carmen and Anja are amazing, they are always very positive towards me. But whatever their attitude was, that wouldn't have matter, they are like idols to me, their attitude wouldn't change anything. Their positivism is just a bonus, that made me even happier. My meeting with Linda was most, well, painful. I met her at an event in Milan, a gala, but things happened extremely fast, and I couldn't take her picture or anything, just managed to get her autograph on my favorite cover of her. Are there any models that made you a bad
impression with their attitude? Well, there are girls that are not that friendly, or they refuse to sign autographs or being photographed. But the time I meet them is always during Fashion Week, when they are running from show to show, from casting to casting. Models are extremely stressed, so I'm not mad or sad or anything when they don't smile, or don't pose for a picture, I don't have the right to be. Are there lot of people like you? I met two girls in Milan, who are fans like me, they know the models' names, they shoot them after shows... But they're not collectors, they study fashion and work for some magazines and websites, that buy some of the photos. Most of the people taking pictures after the shows are journalists and photographers, that don't even know the names of the models, in most cases. Have you ever thought about selling your photos? It's not that important. I am very happy that you were intrigued by what I do, and by my pictures, but this is a pleasure to me. If I make money, or not, out of it, doesn't matter, I will continue doing what I do at all costs. www.radolgc.blogspot.com
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Iris Strubegger is born on July 21, 1984 in Saltsburg, Austria. She started modeling in 2002 with Elite Model Management New York, and quickly became one of the most talked about rising stars, with editorials in The Face and i-D and Armani Collezioni ad campaign. In 2003 she quit modeling, only to return again in 2007 with Supreme Management. The rest is history. Iris is currently the face of Givenchy, Francois Nars and appears in Pirelli Calendar for 2011, shot by Karl Lagerfeld. Iris’ measurements are: height 180, bust 78, waist 60, hips 88, shoes 41.
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Abbey Lee Kershaw is born on June 12, 1987 in Melbourne, Australia. She started modeling after wining the Girlfriend CoverGirl Model Search in 2004 and in 2005 signs with Chic Management in Sydney. However, her real career begins in 2007, when she moves to New York and signs with Next Management, and in 2008 Mario Testino shoots her for D&G. Abbey Lee is the current face of Tom Ford for Women, Tom Ford Eyewear, Versace, Donna Karan and Rag&Bone. Abbey Lee's measurements are: height 181, bust 82, waist 61, hips 89, shoes 41.
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Freja Beha Erichsen is born on October 18, 1987 in Roskilde, Denmark. She started modeling in 2004 with IMG Models. In February 2005 she debuts on the catwalks of Prada and Louis Vuitton, and becomes the face of Jil Sander and Balenciaga the same year. Currently, she's the face of Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Valentino and H&M. Freja Beha's measurements are: height 178, bust 79, waist 58, hips 89, shoes 39.
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Ranya Mordanova is born on July 18, 1991 in Ufa, Russia. She began modeling in 2008 with Women Management. In 2009 after bleaching her eyebrows she becomes the face of Givenchy. Ranya has appeared on the covers of Elle, V, Tush and French. Currently Ranya is off the sight of fashion, and we're looking forward to what she's up to. Ranya's measurements are: height 175, bust 75, waist 57, hips 88, shoes 38.
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Natasha Poly is born on July 12, 1985 in Perm, Russia. She started modeling in 2000, in Russia, but her real breakthrough came in February 2004, when she walked in 54 different fashion shows in Milan, Paris, London and New York and appears in two Vogue Paris covers the same year. Currently Natasha is one of the most in-demand models in the industry and a face of Givenchy. Natasha's measurements are: height 177, bust 81, waist 61, hips 88, shoes 39.
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Frida Gustavsson is born on June 6, 1993 in Stockholm, Sweden. She began modeling in Sweden in 2008 and moved to Japan the same year. Her personal style is followed by many fashionistas and streetstyle bloggers. Currentlly Frida is the face of Etro, Paul & Joe and Just Cavalli. Frida's measurements are: height 180, bust 76, waist 57, hips 89, shoes 39.
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Sasha Pivovarova is born in January 21, 1985 in Moscow, Russia. She began modeling in 2005 with IMG in New York, and in February same year she opened the Prada show and became a face of the brand. In December she was shot for the cover of Vogue Italia by Steven Meisel. Currently she is the face of Miu Miu, Alberta Ferreti, Thomas Wylde, Just Cavalli, and is heavily involved in painting. Sasha's measurements are: height 175, bust 81, waist 60, hips 84, shoes 39.
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Lara Stone is born on December 20, 1983 in Geldrop, The Netherlands. She began her career in 1999 with Elite, but her real work began in 2006 when she moved to IMG. In 2009 she entered rehab for alcoholism, but returned more glorious than ever that same year with an entire Vogue Paris issue dedicated to her. Currently Lara is the exclusive face of all lines of Calvin Klein. Lara's measurements are: height 178, bust 90, waist 64, hips 91, shoes 37.
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Raquel Zimmerman is born on May 6, 1981 in Rio Grane do Sul, Brazil. She began her career in 1995, when she moved to Japan, but was noticed in September 1999 when she walked for Chanel and Valentino in Paris, and in February 2000 she landed her first cover of Vogue Paris. Currently, Raquel is the face of Louis Vuitton, Shiseido, Boss Black and H&M. Raquel's measurements are: height 179, bust 88, waist 61, hips 89, shoes 40.
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Anja Rubik is born on June 11, 1985 in Czestochowa, Poland. She began modeling in 2000, after being scouted at a model contest and debuted at Givenchy, Nina Ricci and Rochas in Paris. Currently, Anja is the face of Fendi, Giuseppe Zanotti, Lacoste, Gap and DKNY Fragrance. Anja's measurements are: height 179, bust 86, waist 69, hips 90, shoes 39.
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Tanya Dziahileva is born on January 4, 1991 in Minsk, Belarus. Her model debut was in September 2005 when she walked in the shows of Alexander McQueen, Prada, Chloe and Chanel, in Milan and Paris. In 2010 she left Elite Models New York to sign with Marilyn, but currently she has disappeared off the modeling stage. Tanya's measurements are: height 181, bust 83, waist 59, hips 90, shoes 39.
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Eniko Mihalik is born on May 11, 1988 in BĂŠkĂŠscsaba, Hungary. She began modeling in 2002 after winning the Hungarian Elite Model Look, but her debut was in July 2006 at Chanel fall couture in Paris. Eniko is currently the face of Kenzo and Boss Orange. Eniko's measurements are: height 178, bust 86, waist 60, hips 89, shoes 40.
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Mariacarla Boscono is born on September 20, 1980 in Rome, Italy. Her career started accidentaly, after meeting Ricardo Tisci, who asked her to model for Givenchy in 1999, and then became his long-time muse. Currently she is the face of Prada, Givenchy and Loewe. Mariacarla's measurements are: height 177, bust 83, waist 57, hips 88, shoes 39.
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In an issue like this, we can’t skip the phenomenon of the Supermodels. And not because we must, but because it is just that – a phenomenon of its time. The nineties is the time when models crossed the boundaries of fashion industry and went beyond. So beyond their function, that for a moment it seemed that the fashion world was serving them, instead of them serving the fashion world. They didn’t join the ranks of movie and rock stars. No, the supermodels pushed celebrities out of their way, and laid comfortably in their beds. The names of Linda, Naomi, Claudia or Christie didn’t need last names, everybody knew who they were just fine. They entered the mainstream pop culture through the parade gate. It turned out that the fashion industry, along with the entertainment industry, have created their
Frankenstein. And then came the cynical: ‘I don’t get out of bed for less than $10, 000.’ That’s the quote that strongly echoed and perhaps sobered up a little bit, the fans, drunk with supermodel beauty. But the girls didn’t stop there. Their glory and supermodel status stepped over another boundary – that of the business. Their names became household trademarks, who earn millions, the strong competitive environment of modeling created smart and bold business-women. Thanks to their personal qualities, the supermodels destroyed the cliches and became role models for millions of girls. Pioneer in business was Cindy Crawford with her home exercise video cassettes, sold in millions of copies. We can also add a cosmetics line, to her successful projects. Iman also made quite a strong debut in cosmetics, when she presented the first makeup line for black women, bearing her name. Elle
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Macpherson made her Elle Macpherson Intimates lingerie line an absolute bestseller in Australia and United Kingdom (at the same time).
cycle begins this month. Project Runway started in 2004 with host and producer Heidi Klum. Klum is also co-producer and host of Germany’s Next Topmodel.
And today, the power of the television influnce, rocketed to eternal stardom the careers of Tyra Banks and Heidi Klum. Tyra founded her own producer’s company – Bankable Productions, which helped her put on air The Tyra Banks Show, and the worldwide phenomenon America’s Next Top Model, whose 16th
And if everything by far is very, very business oriented, we are going to take you in another direction, and will pay attention to some equally exciting and inspiring destinies, beyond modeling.
Obviously, Carla Bruni is the girl for whom everything is possible. Rich by family, born in the family of ancestral industrialists and classical musicians. Italian, who left for Paris at the age of 7, under the threat of the ‘Red Brigades’. Studied in Switzerland, and later on in Paris – architecture, which never finished, because she started her modeling career. Signing with City Models at the age of 19, Carla worked for all the fashion houses and brands that every model dreams of. In 1990, she was named one of the 20 most rich models in the world, with a profit of over $7,5 million. For an year. In the meantime, her personal life is equally intriguing – she dated Eric Clapton, Mick Jagger,
Vincent Perez and former French Prime Minister Laurent Fabius. In 2001 her son Aurelien was born, out of her relationship with the philosophy professor Raphaël Enthoven. Simultaneously, she started a musical career, and by 2008 she has three published albums, whose sales, only in France, exceeded 1 500 000 copies! But that’s not enough for the life-hungry Carla. On 2 February 2008, she says ‘I do’ to the French President Nicholas Sarkozy, and yes, she is now a First lady! According to us, there is no other, more impudent, young, beautiful and rich lady, that we want to be jealous of!
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Natalia Vodianova is undoubtedly ‘the Russian face’ in modeling after the Iron curtain. Her name is constantly paired with the cliché ‘the new Cinderella’, but we totally agree with it. The girl from Nizhny Novgorod, who sells fruits and vegetables in the local market, to support her family, signed a contract with Viva Paris, just two years after that. And in another two years, the fairytale is complete, when Natalia marries The Honourable Justin Trevor Berkeley Portman, half-brother of the 10th Viscount Portman. And so, the country girl is now officially The Honourable Mrs. Justin Portman.’ Between 2001 and 2007 her family expands – with
Lucas, Neva and Viktor, her kids. Natalia’s career is stunning – covers, campaigns, exclusive contracts, a place in Forbes... But besides all that, she managed to monetize her fame charitably. Natalia is founder and president of the Naked Heart Foundation, that has built over 40 play parks across Russia to date. She is also heavily involved in the (Bugaboo)RED campaign, an initiative to help eliminate AIDS in Africa, as well as in numerous environmental projects. In November 2010 Harper’s Bazaar awarded her with the Inspiration of the Year award for her philanthropy.
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Helena Christensen is the personal and irreplaceable teenage dream of the author... The gorgeous Danish-Peruvian mix began her modeling career in 1986, when she became Miss Denmark, and represented the country at the Miss Universe that same year. Her nineties career is more than successful, and Helen will be forever in our hearts with her role in the ‘Wicked Game’ video of Chris Isaak. And if her career looks extremely commercial at first sight, Christensen’s hippie, boho, alternative nature is what we love her for. Helena is creative director of Nylon, since its creation in 1999, and has her own clothing line Christensen&Sigersen, founded with her life long friend Leif Sigersen. She is also an extremely successful photographer, with works published in Nylon, Marie Claire and Elle. She has two exhibitions behing her back – ‘A Quiet Story’, curated by Jim Cook, and the charitable ‘Far From Close’, in benefit ot the International Center of Photography and Chernobyl Children’s Project International.
Karen Elson is here, because after her very, very successful modeling career, she started doing something that loves on does with pleasure. And she is really good in it! It turns out that Karen’s passion is music. She is founder and performer in the New York political cabaret troupe The Citizens Band. In 2003, she recorded back vocals for Robert Plant’s ‘Last Time I Saw Her’, and in 2006 she partnered with Cat Power in ‘I Love You (Me Either)’ for a trubite album to Serge Gainsbourg. Karen stated her longing for a musical further more when she released her debut solo album ‘The Ghost Who Walks’, produced by her husband Jack White, but written and sung completely by her. The critics accepted it enthusiastically, and we asked ourselves which amploa of hers we like the most. And we still don’t know.
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photography lazar styling h&s hair and makeup slav for max factor model matilda at starz people
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leotard h&m, jacket mandy coon for opening ceremony
photography whalen bryce styling hannah richtan makeup taja sparks styling assistant ryan ferguson model soďŹ a krawczyk at new york model management
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dress topshop unique
vintage dress stylist’s own, leotard american apparel, boots h&m
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dress sparkle and fade, headband stylist’s own, shoes zara
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dress h&m, necklace stylist’s own, shoes zara
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corset h&m, shorts diane von furstenberg, necklace stylist's own
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3.1 phillip lim www.31philliplim.com derek lam www.dereklam.com marios schwab www.mariosschwab.com richard nicoll www.richardnicoll.com todd lynn www.toddlynn.com are available at farenah concept, 1a saborna street, www.farenah.com comme des garcons maison martin margiela www.maisonmartinmargiela.com are available at all u re, 9 saborna street. juicy couture www.juicycouture.com msgm www.msgm.it are available at love/labels, tzum floor 2 salon olfactive is at rakovski 145 astella is at 68 vitosha boulevard and www.astellaatelier.com bcbg max azria is at serdika center, ground floor and www.bcbg.com capasca is at 60 vitosha boulevard and www.capasca.com diane von furstenberg is available at volume one, tzum second floor and www.dvf.com drago&rado is at 54 alabin street and www.dragoirado.bg ecru is at 26 6th september street gene is at 26 solunska street and www.genestyle.net gio diev is at 84 vitosha boulevard and www.giodiev.com karen millen is at serdika center, ground floor and www.karenmillen.com longhamp is at serdika center, ground floor and www.longchamp.com max mara is at 74 vitosha boulevard and www.maxmara.com valentino is at 4 saborna street and www.valentino.com zona urbana is at 24 angel kanchev street and www.zurbana.com
GIA MAGAZINE WILL BE BACK SOON. THE FEAR ISSUE IS OUT ON THE FIFTH OF MARCH.