food magazine Introducing Francois Ferreira our quirky proudly south african ginja chef
ALL THINGS COFFEE
coffee & chocolate edition
FROM FARM TO CUP with coffee connoisseurs
Vegan Indulgence satisfy your sweet tooth
bonjour paradise exploring mauritius and its island flavour
WIN:
must-have kitchen gadgets, an exclusive GETAWAY & MORE
AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015 South Africa R45.00 (incl.VAT) Other Countries R39.47 (excl. VAT) www.ginjafood.com
MASTER PASSION
your
Calling all Head Chefs to nominate
atticrush_3315
a young chef to be part of the mentorship movement! Your nominated Chef could win an international culinary experience to London worth R50 000! Plus you could win a South African weekend getaway to the value of R10 000.
Terms & Conditions: The competition is open to all South African cooks & chefs qualified and unqualified. Any participant under the age of 18 years must be fully assisted by his/her guardian. This competition is open from 1 June 2015 and ends on 31 August 2015. Participants must be nominated by their Executive/Head Chef either online at www.ufs.com; OR through the nomination form. The main prize is a culinary experience to London, where the winner will join the International Hotel School Intercampus winner and staff member. The trip will take place in January 2016. The Head Chef’s Prize: A weekend away valued at R10 000 in the region where the Head Chef resides. Finalists will be required to participate in mentoring sessions and the final mystery basket cook-off. • Full terms and conditions at www.ufs.com
Giving Young Chefs a Chance to Master Their Passion Senior chefs around the country are
the opportunity to take the lead and be
called to nominate their young chefs for
part of the mentorship movement — and
the Unilever Food Solutions Master your
nominate their young chefs,” explains
Passion — The Mentorship Movement
Michel Mellis, MD of Unilever Food Solutions
competition — giving them the opportunity
in South Africa.
to spend time with a mentor, learn the art of mastering their passion and take part
The five mentors are Craig Cormack
in a time-trial cook-off. Great prizes are
of The Goose Roasters in Cape Town;
up for grabs for both the nominee
Dion Vengatass, Sous Chef at the Mount
and the nominator.
Nelson Hotel in Cape Town; Executive Chef James Khoza of the Sandton Convention
For young chefs to qualify to enter the
Centre; Executive Chef Stuart Cason, Area
competition, they need to be under the
Executive Chef of Sub-Saharan Africa,
age of 25, have a minimum of three years
Radisson Blu Hotel and Executive Chef
in the industry and be nominated by a head
Leon Hatton-Jones of Hilton in Namibia.
chef with a motivation. The nominated chef could win an international culinary
Entries are open for head chefs to submit
experience to London worth R50 000, while
their nominations until 31 August. The
the nominating head chef stands to win
mentoring sessions will take place between
a South African weekend getaway to the
1 and 30 September and the finals will take
value of R10 000.
place on 29 October 2015 in Johannesburg.
“As Unilever Food Solutions, we believe
Nominate your potential chef online at
in giving back to the industry by developing
www.ufs.com, select the Concepts &
talent. We also believe that there is a
Promotions tab and click on Mentorship
need for young chefs to be mentored.
Movement, where you will find all the
The Master your Passion — Mentorship
information you need, as well as the
Movement competition gives senior chefs
entry form.
Enter online at ufs.com
FOOD For the love of coffee Francois Ferreira cooks with coffee 14 Bean vs. bean Taking a look at the cocoa and coffee beans 40 Island flavour Beverly Hills island hops with flavours 64 Divine cocoa The process behind the indulgence 68 Vegan indulgence Satisfying everyone’s sweet tooth 70 Out of the box The Oyster Box’s Executive Chef Kevin Joseph 84 Dressed for success Getting uniform ready with Chef Works 104
DRINKS Machines and beans Coffee machines that were made to impress 22 Lineage of excellence Chatting to SA's 2013 Barista Champ Craig Charity 26 Full of beans Planting the seed for the perfect coffee bean 30 The world of latte art Making coffee look as good as it tastes 36 The South African Chocolate Coffee Pinotage South Africa’s unique blend 76 Calitzdorp winter festivaL Visiting the annual port festival along the Garden Route 80
Chocolate and wine pairing The best of both worlds 88
Coffee hotspots Your national guide to exceptional coffee 120
TRAVEL Castles in the sand SA’s leading resort for 2015 Conrad Pezula 44
Bonjour paradise Sipping cocktails and delicious dishes at Long Beach Mauritius 54
bon appétit
JUNIOR
Milk, chocolate and cookies Keeping little hands busy and little tummies happy 98
REGULARS Chef’s note 04 Contributors 08 Letters to editor 10 Chef’s Pick Rhymes with orange 48 What’s in season 52 Book review Secrets of a French Cooking Class 94 Ask a chef with Desmond Davies 108 Out & about 114 Suss out SASSI Understanding sustainable seafood 116 Ginja Cheat Sheet Know your coffee 118 Directory 122 Recipe index 124
chef's note
Let me introduce myself. My name is François Ferreira, the new GINJA chef. In June, my partner Denise Lindley and I, took over GINJA Food Magazine from Chef Jacqui Brown, who has emigrated to New Zealand with her family to take up a very exciting project near Auckland. Denise and I are having sleepless nights as our minds are so full of new ideas that we would like to share with all of you, but we realise that Rome wasn’t built in a day, so we will giving you tantalising insights into these ideas with each new edition of Ginja. I have worked in the food industry all my life and everything I do is centred around good food, good wine and good company. I have a passionate love for all things South African, our olive oils, brandies, wines and all our amazing and unique ingredients that are available in this country. We have a rich culinary tradition which I feel is not always appreciated. That is why I have been dubbed the South African Food Evangelist. Denise also shares my enormous passion for food and wine, and she has worked in the catering industry all her life. I hope that you will find this Coffee and Chocolate edition as exciting as I do. I love my coffee – to drink, as an ingredient or using the ground beans as a “spice”, as you will see in my feature “For the Love of Coffee” (pg14). We also chat to those in the know when it comes to all things coffee, like Craig Charity, the SA's world barista competitor for 2014, and obtain an insight into the world of latté art with latté art judge Shaun Aupiais. There are some decadent chocolate recipes that I am sure every chocoholic will be delighted to make and indulge themselves in. This edition is all about life’s little luxuries. So sit back, indulge and enjoy. Happy Cooking
- François
TM
5
f
DECADENT COFFEE & chocolate layered cake topped with meringues
INGREDIENTS For the chocolate sponge 500 ml flour 500 ml castor sugar 30 ml baking powder 5 ml salt 8 eggs – separated 250 ml oil 1 shot strong espresso coffee Boiling water (explained in the method below) 75 ml cacao For the white velvet cake 625 ml flour 375 ml castor sugar 5 ml bicarbonate of soda 5 ml maizena 5 ml custard powder 5 ml salt 300 ml buttermilk 2 eggs – jumbo size 400 ml vegetable oil 5 ml white vinegar 5 ml vanilla essence For the chocolate coffee ganache 250 ml double cream 750 ml dark chocolate 30 ml instant coffee For the butter icing 130 g softened butter 1.5 kg icing sugar 15 ml flour
06
1. Whisk the egg yolk and sugar until light
minutes before taking it out of the tins, let
a whisk to combine the ganache, if some
it cool completely.
of the chocolate still needs to melt, warm
and creamy
2. Add the oil slowly to the egg mixture until mixed well
3. Pour the espresso into a 250ml measuring cup, fill it up with boiling water (if you want a stronger coffee taste you
the ganache on a very low heat until it WHITE VELVET CAKE
becomes easy to stir the mixture.
sieve twice
a whisk until it becomes thick and
1. Combine all of the dry ingredients and 2. Combine all of the wet ingredients
4. Remove from the heat and mix with
velvety.
together.
can add 2 heaped tablespoons instant
3. Mix the wet and dry ingredients
coffee granules) now add half of the liquid
together
BUTTER ICING
slowly to the egg mixture and make sure
4. Prepare a 23cm cake tin with
1. Cream butter in a mixing bowl 2. Sieved the icing sugar and flour
that the egg does not cook and separate
greaseproof paper only on the bottom of
together twice, add the icing sugar & in 3
4. Sieve the dry ingredients and a pinch
of salt, keep 1 tsp baking powder back
5. Add the flour mixture to the egg
mixture; fold in until the flour is worked
the tin and spray the tin on the inside.
stages, making sure that it’s mixed well
5. Pour into the tin and bake at 180C for
3. The icing should be soft and
30 – 35 minutes until a skewer comes out
spreadable (keeps its shape) not soft.
clean when placed in the centre of the cake.
ASSEMBLE
6. Whisk the egg whites until foamy and
remove onto a cooling rack, let it cool
Slice the cake to ensure even layers
add the baking powder, whisk until soft
down completely before decorating.
into the batter mixture. Add the remaining liquid and stir lightly until combined
6. Let cool in the tin for 10 minutes and
1. Use a sturdy base to put the cake on. 2. Alternate the chocolate cake with the white velvet cake, starting with the
peak is reached
7. Fold in the egg whites with a metal
CHOCOLATE COFFEE GANACHE
chocolate cake as the base
spoon until batter is mixed through
1. Warm up the cream in a saucepan,
3. Spread a thin layer butter icing (5mm)
(remember the more you mix the stronger
make sure that the cream does not boil,
onto each layer of cake ending with the
the gluten becomes and this can lead to a
slight simmer only. Dissolve the instant
icing on the top layer, cover the rest of the
heavy texture.)
coffee in the cream.
cake and give it a smooth surface
the bottom of the tins and make sure that
cream, remove from the heat and stir a
you spray the sides and greaseproof paper
little bit until the cream and chocolate
5. Decorate with white and dark
slightly.
combines. Put the lid on the saucepan and
chocolate curls or you can buy the small
leave to stand for 10 minutes
meringues as seen in the photo from your
8. Use 2 x 23cm round cake tins, line only 2. Add the chocolate to the heated 9. Bake at 180˚C for 45 – 50 minutes 10. Let the cakes cool down for 10
on the cover
CHOCOLATE SPONGE CAKE
3. If all of the chocolate has melted, use
4. Cool down the ganache to room temperature and drizzle it over the cake.
local shop.
07
our contributors
Having won the SA barista championship in 2013 and competed in the World barista championships in 2014, Craig Charity knows all things coffee. He recently opened his own stand-alone coffee shop.
EDITOR SHERILEE MAASS sherilee@ginjamedia.com SUB-EDITOR MIKE ALLEN mike@ginjamedia.com
Vice-President of the Francois Ferreira Academy, Denise Lindley, has spent most of her career in the catering industry and has an enormous passion for all things food and wine related.
HEAD DESIGNER KATE SCOTT design@ginjamedia.com SALES EXECUTIVE CLARISE SHA clarise@ginjamedia.com MARKETING, SOCIAL MEDIA & DISTRIBUTION MAGGI VAN RHYN maggi@ginjamedia.com ADMINISTRATOR PHYLLIS SOEKOE phyllis@ginjamedia.com
Executive Sous Chef of the Durban International Convention Centre, Desmond Davies, is a member of both the South African Chefs Association as well as the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs South Africa.
GINJA JUNIOR CHEF JULIETTE MUDALY juliette@ginjamedia.com CONTACT US +27 (0)31 563 0054 P O Box 20111 Durban North, 4016 WWW.GINJAFOOD.COM
Executive Chef Kevin Joseph has been at the Oyster Box Hotel for the past decade, having originally trained as a chef for the South African Navy. Kevin describes his cooking style as ’classic with a twist of modern’.
08
GINJA CHEF FRANCOIS FERREIRA francois@ginjamedia.com DIRECTOR DENISE LINDLEY denise@ginjamedia.com
Shaun Aupiais is known as “the coffee guy”. He works closely with the Red Band Barista Academy as a barista trainer and coach. Is a latté art judge and doting father of three.
Ryan le Roux, Founder of the Leva Foundation non-profit organization, that equips previously unemployed individuals with the specialist skill of excellent, industry grade barista training.
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dear editor
LETTERS FROM OUR READERS Dear Editor,
magazine. Every issue feeds my soul and appetite. It is my pleasure to subscribe
Just wanted to drop you a note telling you
to such a wonderful foodie inspired
how much I enjoy your magazine.
magazine. It is so evident that this magazine is owned by and employs people
Write to us: press@ginjamedia.com PO Box 20111, Durban North, 4016
10
I was telling my mom yesterday that I was
who enjoy food as much as I do... this does
impatiently awaiting my next issue of GINJA
not go unnoticed! I have every single issue
Food Magazine, and it was in my mailbox
from the beginning, because I can't bear to
when I got home. She is hooked too! Every
part with any of them. I look at them again
time she comes to my house, the first thing
and again. I've said it many times before
she does is look through your magazines
but I truly thank you for this wonderful
for new recipes to test drive.
journey of food you have taken us on.
In my opinion, you have surely fulfilled
Thanks so much for all you do!
the goal you set out to achieve with the
Jacqueline Lombardt
WRITE TO US AND STAND A CHANCE TO WIN A CARESS MARINE SINGLZ HAMPER VALUED AT R600
Dear Editor
your imagination on a culinary adventure. The way he describes the theatrical
My husband gave me a copy of
dining experience at Heston
GINJA Food Magazine about 5 months
Blumenthal flagship restaurant, The
ago as part of a Valentine's gift. We are
Fat Duck is incredible. This is the dream
both avid foodies and enjoy spending
of many a foodie, but sadly attained only
time in the kitchen with family and
by few.
friends. Food to us is most definitely the language of love and appreciation, a
Do we have a similar dining experience
message that shines throughout your
available in South Africa? I find the
publication.
unique food offering intriguing and would love to know if we can experience
I've mostly enjoyed the food-related
it here in SA.
article "A Blumen(thal) Wonder" by Alex Poltera - he surely knows how to take
Roxanne Fortuin
11
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14
for the love
of coffee I am a great coffee lover. When I first used coffee to flavour a dish my friends thought I had lost the plot. Coffee gives an added fuller dimension to any dish. All coffees have natural acidity; the coffees from South America are a bit more acidic than the coffees from Africa which tend to have chocolate & spice overtones. Ground coffee beans make a great crust or a rub for meats but you need to balance it with something sweet. Whole coffee beans in a dish infuse a lot of flavour but do not forget to remove them before service.
15
Coffee rubbed Rib-Eye Roast EASY | SerVES 6 Prep Time: 60 mins Cooking Time: 75 mins
Ingredients 60 ml finely ground coffee 30 ml coarse salt 15 ml freshly ground black pepper ¼ vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped 1 kg whole Rib-eye Roast
1. In a bowl, thoroughly blend the coffee with the salt, pepper and vanilla bean seeds. Set the rib-eye roast in a roasting pan and rub it all over with the coffee mixture, concentrating most of the rub on the fatty part of the meat. Let roast stand covered at room temperature for 30 minutes.
2. Preheat the oven to 230°C. Roast the meat for 15 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 160°C and roast for about 1 hour
3. Transfer the roast to a carving board and let rest for 20 minutes. Scrape off any excess coffee rub. Carve the meat in
16
food
slices and serve. Note: The coffee-rubbed roast can be refrigerated overnight. Bring to room temperature before roasting.
Coffee & Caper Risotto EASY | SerVES 6 (as a starter) Prep Time: 10 mins Cooking Time: 20 mins
Ingredients 30 ml capers, drained
occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add
1 double shot espresso
the rice and cook, stirring, until just translucent,
1,25 L chicken or vegetable stock
about 2 minutes. Add the wine and simmer for 2
30 ml extra-virgin olive oil
minutes. Add the coffee beans and 250ml of the
1 small onion, finely chopped
warm stock and cook over moderate heat, stirring
375 ml Arborio rice
constantly, until absorbed. Repeat the process
90 ml dry white wine
using 1,15 L of the stock and stirring until the rice
8 coffee beans
is al dente and bound in a creamy sauce, about 20
30 ml unsalted butter
minutes total.
90 ml Parmesan, freshly grated Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1. Drain and coarsely chop the capers. 2. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, boil the brewed espresso over high heat until reduced to
4. Remove the risotto from the heat and discard
“
the coffee beans. Stir in the butter and cheese; then stir in the remaining 100ml of stock. Season the risotto with salt and pepper and spoon onto plates. Scatter the chopped capers over the risotto and the reduced espresso around it.
30ml, about 5 minutes.
3. In a medium saucepan, bring the stock to a simmer; cover and keep warm over low heat. In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and cook over moderately high heat, stirring
When I used coffee to flavour a dish my friends thought I had lost the plot.
17
“ Coffees from South America are a bit more acidic than the coffees from Africa which tend to have chocolate & spice overtones.
Lamb, Coffee and date tagine EASY | SerVES 6-8 Prep Time: 10 mins Cooking Time: 30 mins
Ingredients 2 kg lamb stewing meat Oil 3 cardamom pods 1 star anise 1 whole cinnamon stick 4 medium onions, roughly cut 4 cloves garlic, roughly chopped 500 ml coffee, not too strong 500 ml beef stock 200 g dates, cut into blocks Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. Fry the pieces of meat in the oil until sealed. Remove from the pot and set
18
3. Pour the coffee bean syrup over the
then add the meat and simmer for a few
bananas and let stand until cooled to room
minutes. Add the spices, coffee and stock.
temperature, then refrigerate for about 2
2. Season to taste. Simmer until the meat is soft.
3. Lastly add the dates simmer again until
food
aside. Fry the onions and garlic until opaque
hours. Spoon the bananas and coffee bean syrup into individual serving bowls, spoon the yoghurt over and serve.
the sauce has reduced slightly. Note: The coffee bean syrup can be prepared
Bananas in Coffee Syrup
one day ahead; let cool then refrigerate overnight. Gently reheat the syrup before pouring it over the bananas.
EASY | SerVES 6 Prep Time: 15 mins Cooking Time: 120 mins
Ingredients 500 ml freshly brewed coffee 250 ml sugar Zest of ½ lemon 1 cinnamon stick, broken into pieces 8 firm, medium bananas 15 ml fresh lemon juice Greek style yoghurt, for serving
1. In a saucepan bring the coffee to the boil. Add the sugar, lemon zest and pieces of cinnamon stick and simmer over moderate heat for 5 minutes or until syrupy. Set aside to cool slightly.
2. Meanwhile, peel the bananas and slice into thick slices. Place the bananas in a large shallow dish, and toss in the lemon juice
19
DELONGHI PRIMA DONNA R19,999 Prepare cappuccinos, Italian latte macchiatos and caffe lattes with beans or ground coffee, or even a cup of hot chocolate with DēLonghi’s PrimaDonna Exclusive. This fully automatic coffee machine boasts an integrated silent coffee grinder with 13 adjustable settings as well as the LatteCrema system for the perfect cappuccino. www.delonghi.com/ en-za
MAchines
& beans
Get the best out of your roast with these incredible coffee making machines
22
Exprelia Evo R15, 999 Indulge your friends with the perfect Italian coffee. With the Saeco Exprelia Evo, aspiring coffee experts can experience the thrill of preparing a cup as professionals would, with the ability to customize multiple drinks and the guarantee of a perfect hygiene. www.italianlifestyle. co.za
Motherland Toil & Triumph R85.50 At Motherland, we want you to Drink the Love we put into every bag. Toil & Triumph is a blend of Burundian and Ethiopian coffees. It’s soft, sweet and smooth, with hints of light caramel and fruit. www. motherlandcoffee. com
BEAN THERE COFFEE COMPANY R75 (250g) Exhibiting a sweet honey aroma with winey acidity and creamy body this Burundi Musema coffee reveals rich berry and chocolate flavours. A Direct Fair Trade partnership with the Nyarurama and Musema Cooperatives. www.beanthere.co.za
23
DELONGHI ELETTA R12,500 (white) R12,000(black) The Eletta is ideal for the creation of a variety of coffees, hot drinks or even tea infusions. The Milk Menu allows for the selection of beverages, whilst drip coffee fans are also catered for with a Long Coffee button. www.delonghi.com/ en-za
“ For full flexibility from roast to cup look at the espresso machine.
When it comes to more convenience but still using beans, the bean-to-cup grinds and pours automatically. For
proper on-the-go coffee invest in a capsule machine.
24
MOKADOR Gran Miscela R260 (1kg) An expert blend of the unique, delicate taste of Columbia coffees, the subtle-tasting Santos coffee, with added high-altitude Guatemala and Costa Rica-grown beans. It’s delicate taste has hints of fruit and flowers and a velvety hazelnutbrown creamy top layer when poured. www.mokador.co.za
RYO coffee Ultimate Starter Kit R899 For the real coffee lover, Roasting Your Own coffee will give you that much more appreciation for the coffee you’re drinking. Stove top or braai, flat white or cappuccino, experiment, have fun, and enjoy the ultimate in fresh gourmet home roasted and brewed coffee. www.ryocoffee.co.za
of excellence
drinks GINJA takes a coffee break and chats to SA's Barista Champion of 2013, Craig Charity.
coffee started when he would wake up
Meeting with Craig Charity has to have
kind of guy, either this is going to be
been one of the most entertaining
amazing or dishwater. His passion
interviews to date. Whilst trying to find him
soon progressed into a mobile coffee
at his newly opened stand-alone coffee
company, and from there he accidently
shop in the Watercrest Mall Hillcrest, his
became a coffee machine technician. As
only hint was that he would be the man
you might say, things grew from there
jumping up and down in the middle of the
to where he is today. A business owner,
mall. True to his word, that is how we found
husband and father of (soon-to-be) three,
him.
Craig is animated as he talks about his
at 4am for his job as a personal trainer, at that time of the morning caffeine is a must! He is also an “all-or-nothing”
coffee adventures, including his flight to Instantly you know that he is passionate
Guatemala to fetch his coffee beans for a
about coffee. Not in the sense that he just
competition, which he needed well before
loves a good cup of the beverage to get
the time limits of having them imported.
him through the day. Oh no. He is the kind of person who wants to know where the cherries were grown, who the people were that harvested them, the washing process, including the temperatures used, as well as the drying process. Every step in this process is important to the end product. Every step is a part of a bigger picture, until
“
As one would expect, there are pictures of him amongst the coffee trees and admiring the washing process. Another would be when he only received the coffee beans for one of the world championships a mere 15 minutes before game-time. That has to be one of the hairiest tales to date.
ultimately what you have in front of you is deserving of SA’s number one barista for 2013. As with most of us, Craig’s passion for
His only hint was that he would be the man jumping up and down in the middle of the mall.
27
drinks
Back in a more relaxed environment,
He goes on to say, “I would do barista
As for the name, it’s simple; it is all
Craig waits in anticipation as you take a
courses and make them draw pictures
about the lineage of coffee in a cup,
sip of his coffee, which he asks you try
of the process of the coffee going from
the lineage of the machinery and
first without sugar. As he roasts his own
a simple seed into the cup of coffee that
the lineage of excellence. Craig uses
coffee beans and makes sure that he is a
you end up with. Often that leaves them
Lamarzocca machines, each machine
part of the entire process, he compares
with more than one drawing. Then what
is hand-made in Florence Italy, by
his coffee-making abilities to that of a
I say to them is that you are at the end
a person, not a machine, so there is
wine-maker. As Craig explains, “It’s like
of the food chain, you have the ability
history to it. Take a moment to have
saying that in order for you to enjoy a
to display this process in all its glory and
more than just a cup of coffee. Visit
glass of wine you have to add sugar to
respect all those people that have gone
Craig at his stand-alone shop in
it. That is just a really bad idea. We are
before you, or you have the power to
Watercrest Hillcrest or his coffee shop
so accustomed to bad bitter coffee that
completely destroy all their hard work. It
at Stratta Café in Hillcrest and meet
we don’t know what a balanced cup of
is important to honour each and every
the man behind one of the best cups
coffee should taste like. ”
person before you.”
of coffee I have had to date.
a good cuppa with craig
Espresso based coffee is extracted with
An excellent extraction is syrupy and
Milk is texturised to have a consistency of
9 bars of pressure, the barista needs to
thick, not dribbling and gushing out.
wet paint and is heated to around 60°C to
compress the coffee using a Tampa.
28
bring out the milks natural sweetness.
“ It’s like saying that in order for you to enjoy a glass of wine you have to add sugar to it. That is just a
really bad idea.We are so accustomed to bad bitter coffee that we don’t know what a balanced cup of coffee should taste like.
The crema on top of the espresso
The goal of free pouring latte art is to create a
A cappuccino's foam needs to be
becomes a canvas.
design that is both centred and symmetrical.
about 1cm thick at the top. If the foam
Leaving a brown rim of crema around the outside.
is too thin it loses its textural appeal.
29
full of
beans There's an intricate process to getting that perfect cup of coffee. We take a look at some of the passionate coffee farmers that grow and hand pick some fine beans...
30
Sir Arthur Conan-Doyle wrote about his fictional hero Sherlock Holmes smoking ”several pipes” whilst solving a mystery, it has often been suggested that those pipes were Opium or some other Hallucinogenic Drug. How many of us though have drunk “several cups” of coffee whilst solving a problem or studying late into the night? Certainly a much safer and more legal way of staying awake! If you, like me, have thought during those late night, coffee powered, sessions about the origins of that “cuppa Joe” doubtless your mind flew to South America, to Brazil or similar. We seem to think that Coffee Farming is an exclusively South American occupation. I doubt if any of us would have thought of Africa as a possible source of our coffee. However there are a number of African countries where coffee farming is expanding. For the purpose of this article we are going to look at two of them in particular. The first is an operation in Burundi and the reason for our particular interest is in the development taking place there. Apparently up until fairly recently the coffee growers did just that! They grew coffee berries and supplied them on to the washers and roasters and thence to the blenders and so on until it reached the supermarket and eventually your coffee machine. Now, thanks to the American Carlson family
with their passion for coffee, and a desire to facilitate a direct and meaningful relationship between Coffee Growers and Coffee Roasters there is the Burundi Long Miles Coffee Project. This project has built several washing stations so that growers can have more control over the quality of bean produced. Since the majority of coffee berries, for good coffee, are handpicked and then the flesh removed by either a wet or dry process to extract the bean ready for roasting, Extracting the choicest beans is the way to ensuring our “perfect cup”. Giving the farmer/grower control over this part of the process is achieving two things. Firstly the grower gets a better price for the beans, enabling them not only to survive but to thrive and expand. More coffee for us! Secondly and probably of greater importance is that we, the coffee drinkers get more and better single origin coffees to choose from. Our next Coffee Producer of interest is, surprisingly, very close to the GINJA team, on the KZN South Coast at Port Edward. The reasons for our interest in this, the Beaver Creek Coffee Estate are many, I suppose one that piques my interest most is that it is way south of the normally accepted “coffee belt” which is between the Tropic of Cancer and the Tropic of Capricorn. In fact it is the southernmost coffee estate in the world. The story behind that is also newsworthy in that in 1984 banana farmer and owner
31
Ed Cumming took the risky step of planting 4 coffee trees. The risk paid off and today the Estate has over 60,000 trees. Of even greater interest to us is that three generations of that risk-taking family are still involved in the growing, harvesting and roasting of their much-loved coffee. A direct result of this personal involvement is that the estate can provide consistent quality coffee roasts that are unique to Beaver Creek. Besides these signature roasts the estate also blends local and imported coffees to provide a wide range of distinctive flavours. Of special interest to South African coffee lovers is the lengths to which the estate goes to educate those with an interest in the processes involved in making that perfect cup. They provide “Crop to Cup” tours, Home Barista Courses and Sampling to choose your “favourite favourite”. The Estate Café also serves meals all day with, of course coffee on tap.
STEPS TO MAKING COFFEE 1. Planting A coffee bean is actually a seed. When dried, roasted and ground, it is used to brew coffee. But if the seed is not processed, it can be planted and will grow into a coffee tree. 2. Harvesting Depending on the variety, it will take approximately 3 or 4 years for the newly planted coffee trees to begin to bear fruit. The fruit, called the coffee cherry, turns a
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bright, deep red when it is ripe and ready to be harvested. 3. Choose beans Selectively Picked - only the ripe cherries are harvested and they are picked individually by hand. 4. Processing The Dry Method This is the age-old method of processing coffee and is still used in many countries where water resources are limited. The freshly picked cherries are simply spread out on huge surfaces to dry in the sun. In order to prevent the cherries from spoiling, they are raked and turned throughout the day. The Wet Method In wet method processing, the pulp is removed from the coffee cherry after harvesting and the bean is dried with only the parchment skin left on. First, the freshly harvested cherries are passed through a pulping machine where the skin and pulp is separated from the bean. If the beans have been processed by the wet method, the pulped and fermented beans must now be dried to approximately 11 percent moisture to properly prepare them for storage. These beans, still encased inside the parchment envelope (the endocarp), can be sun dried by spreading them on drying tables or floors, where they are turned regularly, or they can be machine dried in large tumblers. 5. Storage Once dried, these beans, referred to as
“ Beaver Creek Coffee Estate is
way south of the normally accepted “coffee belt�. In fact it is the southernmost coffee estate in the world.
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“ At every stage of its production, coffee is repeatedly tested for quality and taste. The taster -- usually called the cupper "slurps" a spoonful with a quick inhalation.
1. Planting
2. Harvesting
6. Milling
5. Storage
7. Roasting
12. Drinking
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8. Packaging
11. Brewing
3. Choose beans
4. Processing
9. Grinding
10. Tamping
'parchment coffee,' are warehoused in sisal or jute bags until they are readied for export. 6. Milling Hulling Machines are used to remove the parchment layer (endocarp) from wet processed coffee. Hulling dry processed coffee refers to removing the entire dried husk -- the exocarp, mesocarp & endocarp -- of the dried cherries. Polishing This is an optional process in which any silver skin that remains on the beans after hulling is removed in a polishing machine. While polished beans are considered superior to unpolished ones, in reality there is little difference between the two. Grading & Sorting Before being exported, the coffee beans will be even more precisely sorted by size and weight. They will also be closely evaluated for colour flaws or other imperfections. 7. Roasting Roasting transforms green coffee into the aromatic brown beans that we purchase, either whole or already ground, Most roasting machines maintain a temperature of about 290°C. The beans are kept moving throughout the entire process to keep them from burning. 8. Packaging Roasting and packaging is generally performed in the importing countries because freshly roasted beans must reach
the consumer as quickly as possible. 9. Grinding The objective of a proper grind is to get the most flavour in a cup of coffee. How coarse or fine the coffee is ground depends on the method by which the coffee is to be brewed. Coffee ground for use in an espresso machine is much finer than coffee which will be brewed in a drip system. 10. Tamping Tamping is required as the brew water is under a lot of pressure (8 to 10 times the weight of gravity) and has an innate ability to find the path of least resistance through the ground coffee. If the coffee is not tamped correctly then you will find over-extraction of the coffee surrounding the channels and under-extraction in the coffee in the channels. The result is either a cup of coffee that is too bitter or too caramelised. With firm and even tampering, the water has no other option but to flow through the coffee evenly, leaving you with the best coffee that your coffee grind has to offer. 11. Brewing Before you brew your coffee, take a moment to look carefully at the beans. Smell their aroma. Think of the many processes that these beans have gone through since the day they were hand-picked and sorted in their origin country. Consider the long way they have travelled to your kitchen. Prepare your coffee thoughtfully and enjoy it with pleasure. Many people have been instrumental in bringing it to your cup!
12. Drinking At every stage of its production, coffee is repeatedly tested for quality and taste. The taster -- usually called the cupper "slurps" a spoonful with a quick inhalation. An expert cupper can taste hundreds of samples of coffee a day and still taste the subtle differences between them. Rest assured the end product, your cuppa joe before you, has been carefully processed and selected for your enjoyment!
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The world of Latte ART Words by Shaun Aupiais and Jessica Le Roux
‘Latte art’ has exploded in South Africa over the last few years. Gone are the days when drinking a great cappuccino was ‘good enough.’ There is now even more of an expectation from the average consumer: coffee needs to look as good as it tastes! Shaun Aupiais and Byron Keet are barista (speciality coffee) trainers with Famous Brands Coffee Company. Shaun has been in the industry for years, not only as a trainer, but judging and coaching in South Africa’s regional and national barista and latte art competitions. Byron is a two-time competitor and the current Eastern Cape Barista Champ - and let’s not forget the 2014 South African Latte Art Champion. South Africa’s love for coffee has certainly grown from strength to strength over the last few years, but more importantly we have been pushing the boundaries with latte art. Many people are interested in this new craft, but don’t know much about the process or what happens behind the scenes. Byron has just returned from the World Latte Art Competition (WLAC) in Sweden and has brought back a wealth of insider knowledge. So let’s look at this question for a moment: What are the requirements for Byron Keet as the ‘competitor’ and Shaun Aupiais as the ‘coach’ in terms of the level of requirement expected on the latte art world stage? THE COMPETITOR: “Over the past 6 months I have been prepping for my journey to Sweden. As the South African Champ, not only do I want to represent my country well but I want to enjoy, express and celebrate my love for coffee from this amazing platform. There is great deal
of preparation, and the bottom line is that I need
Hand Pour and your Designer Pour. Your Free Hand
to decide what I'm going to pour and then practice,
Pour must be a picture that you pour completely
practice and practice some more. Over the past 3
free hand with the jug alone. With the Designer Pour,
months I’ve used more than 10 kilograms of coffee
you can be a lot more creative and use a stylus to
- which equates to over 1000 practice pours. The
enhance your design as well as add some textured
competition level is hectic but it was loads of fun and
milk to the surface to draw with. You have to provide
I learnt so much from the other competing baristas
two of each picture to the judges in eight minutes
from all over the world.”
and not only do you need to do this as creatively and efficiently as possible, but you also have the weight
THE COACH: “So where do I begin? The WLAC
of the world stage and a massive crowd bearing
requires a great deal of preparation. Not only did
down on you.
Byron need to decide on his choices and practice,
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but we also needed to look at all the requirements
Once you have presented your first set they look
and criteria that need to be fulfilled on the world
at the similarity of the two cups compared to the
stage. The pictures you are going to pour need to be
picture you have provided. Once they have done
given to the competition judges beforehand. This
that, they look at the following: Visual Quality (of
means providing them with pictures of your Free
your foam), Contrast, Size, Symmetry, Positioning,
Shaun Aupiais and Byron Keet catch up after the World Champs and get Latte creative. Photography by: Minas Mandis.
Creativity, Difficulty and Overall Appealing Look. On top of this, your professionalism and ability on the stage and behind the espresso machine are
“ South Africa’s love for coffee has certainly grown
there are over 400 points up for grabs. You need
from strength to strength over the last few years, but more importantly we have been pushing the
to do your best to get them. It is a competition of
boundaries with latte art.
assessed. This applies to both sets of pours and
great skill and strategy, and you need to know where to try and beat your competition (the level at this
as baristas we have an amazing opportunity to pour
world’s was incredibly high). But also, overall there
a bit of ourselves on the surface of that cappuccino
were valuable lessons learnt, and it was a great solid
and that's what makes it so creatively fun. Everyone
injection of coffee passion that goes a long way to
has a different expectation when they sit down at
increasing our love and passion for coffee.”
a coffee shop … I suppose that ‘ Beauty is in the eye and taste of the beholder!’. So think of us the next
We have the ability to create the most beautiful art on coffee, but it requires a lot of energy and skills that only come with time and experience. There is so much you can draw on coffee and from it. I think
time you are drinking and enjoying a cuppa! Find Shaun and Jessica on Instagram: Shaun - shaunthecoffeeguy Jessica - fednutrition
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We are all fully aware of the final product of both the coffee and cocoa bean, but here are a few little-known facts about these beans
Coffee is the 2nd most traded commodity on earth, coming second only to oil. Dark roasted coffees actually have LESS caffeine than medium roasts. The longer a coffee is roasted, the more caffeine burns off during the process.
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bean VS
The word "coffee" comes from the Arabic "qah-hwat al-bun," meaning "wine of the bean." The word cappuccino comes from the resemblance of the drink to the clothing of the Capuchin monks.
Coffee drinkers have a lower risk of Alzheimer's disease.
The coffee taster for Costa coffee has his tongue insured for ÂŁ10m. Coffee beans are actually the pit of a berry, which makes
them a fruit.
It takes approximately 42 coffee beans to make an average serving of espresso. Until the tenth century, coffee was considered a food. Ethiopian tribesmen would mix the coffee
berries with animal fat, roll them into balls, and eat them on their nomadic journeys.
Cocoa beans are rich in a number of essential minerals, including magnesium, calcium, iron, zinc, copper, potassium and manganese. Cocoa trees need to be planted next to tall trees to protect them from direct
sunlight. They are often planted amongst mango and papaya trees. The soil (or terroir, as in winemaking) influences the flavours of the cocoa beans. It takes 3 to 5 years before the cocoa tree bears fruit.
Most of the communities that farm both coffee and cocoa beans have never tasted coffee or chocolate. 4 cacao seeds make 1 ounce of milk chocolate, and 12 seeds make 1 ounce of dark chocolate.
Cocoa beans contains a very low amount of caffeine, much less than found in coffee, tea and cola drinks. Every stage of cocoa production is done by hand: planting, irrigating, harvesting, fermenting and drying.
bean VS
The difference between cacao and cocoa: Cacao is the bean. Cocoa is the product that is made from it.
Coffee drives social change in
“The first two weeks focus on job
Coffee is the second most traded
of Leva Foundation. “Candidates
The magic brew has always been a
which addresses how to enter the work
years has taken its place at the heart of
professionalism, and financial literacy.
literature and corporate offices – it has
can be challenged and changed.”
eating experience, restaurants are judged
technical coffee training, and the last
Even so, we don’t realize the potential
shadowing. 40 trainees enter the initial
communities? This is the question being
next phase.
Barista Academy, developed by the non-
qualifying Red Band baristas can be
identifies promising individuals and gives
saw 15 individuals qualifying. All of them
readiness skills .
graduation.
unemployed youth work through a
4 a Living, and the Leva Foundation,”
specialist coffee training facilitated by
opportunity to the trainees to mix
Aupiais. Aupiais’ enthusiasm is palpable.
experience. This is priceless. We are
skilled, motivated – and employable,” he
lives of young people involved, including
ready to embark on a career path with
phase.”. Evidently, coffee is not just a
of both our project and students.”
for social change.
the Eastern Cape
readiness,” says Ryan Le Roux, Director
commodity in the world, after petroleum.
explore the “Work 4 a Living” initiative,
big part of life, but over the last twenty
place, the importance of work ethic,
many global commodities – from art to
This is a key process where mindsets
also become an essential part of any
The next three weeks focus on intense,
as much for their coffee as their food.
two weeks include on-the-job work
coffee holds to help uplift struggling
programme, with 15 qualifying for the
answered by the pioneering Red Band
The life opportunity openings for
profit Leva Foundation. The Academy
dramatic. In May 2015, the programme
them high quality barista training and job
found employment within a week of
Quite simply the academy sees
“This is exciting for Red Band, Work
seven week training programme, with
says Le Roux. “The programme offers
top South African barista trainer, Shaun
theoretical learning with real workplace
“Graduates leave the academy highly
seeing hugely positive impact on the
explains. “They’re eligible for a ‘job’, and
those who may not qualify for the final
real prospects. We are incredibly proud
social beverage. It is a powerful agent
www.levafoundation.org
Castles in the sand GINJA visits South Africa’s Leading Resort for 2015
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When we roused in the morning, we could hardly contain our excitement to finally have a look at the resort we had heard so much about. We were certainly not disappointed. Meeting up with the wonderful Hanlie, Conrad Pezula’s charming marketing manager, we caught up on all the latest developments and were welcomed into the inner workings of this magnificent 5-star resort. A massive drawcard is the multiple award-winning Zachary’s restaurant which places great emphasis on utilising local produce. As strong supporters of the growing international Slow Food movement, the Conrad Pezula chefs make a point of knowing as much as possible
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Along one of the most majestic strips of beach on Knysna’s coastline lies the Conrad Pezula Resort and Spa. April was a month of adventure for the GINJA team which found us arriving at the resort just before the stroke of midnight. Even though we had arrived at such an unholy hour, the staff were friendly and full of smiles as they helped us unpack our severely over-packed car and shuffled us off to our respective rooms, even offering to light the fires.
about local farmers, investigating various markets in the region and discovering the divergent fresh ingredients that are available to them. “They’ll always give precedence to local producers who have chosen to follow the organic route,” Hanlie explains. “It ensures that we develop an understanding about the quality and freshness of the products we’re are working with.” The resort also has its own organic gardens and with the bounty of products available along the garden route, the development of a clean and honest approach to food presented in style of its own, becomes easier to achieve. After lunch we decided to visit the famous Conrad Pezula’s much lauded spa which immediately made us feel like we were Hollywood stars. We took some time to relax by the pool but, having only one day available for us to explore the resort, we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to see the famous castles at Noetzie beach. There we met the head housekeeper, Francina, where you sense straight away that the resort is run on passion and hard work. She shared heartwarming stories and proudly showed us where the late Nelson Mandela stayed on his visit to the
Clockwise, from left: Golden sunlight reflected off Rapadalen river, Sarek National Park, Sweden; A field of tulips on the outskirts of the city; Lussekatter, a popular Swedish saffron bun.
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“ Without a shadow of doubt Conrad Pezula is one of the most extraordinary places I have had the
46
pleasure of visiting
lovely resort. When asked if we could take a photo of her, she hesitated and asked only that the photo be taken next to the one of him sitting in the chair behind which she stood. Each castle has its own unique décor and style, and although close to one another, each offers a sense of privacy. Heading back to the hotel, we were shown into the heart of the resort… the kitchen. It was a joy to watch the “well-oiled machine” with staff helping each other with smiles on their faces. I was still thinking of the synergy in the kitchen when we attempted the hike and canoe trip. This is only funny if you know that I am severely asthmatic and this was not my plan. That said, thoughts of the staff and
the resort filled my mind as we hiked through the beautiful forest, guided by the admirable Richard, and led down to the river bank where we hopped into a canoe and rowed our way along the river until we met the ocean at the mouth… the same area where we had been earlier in the day and once more we were in awe of the proud and towering castles that came into view. Without a shadow of doubt Conrad Pezula is one of the most extraordinary places I have had the pleasure of visiting, and to say that it is within our South African borders makes me very proud. Their staff are all phenomenal, and each person a piece of an ornate puzzle. The result is magnificent!
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ROOIBOS SMOKED OYSTER with naartjie
agar agar
INTERMEDIATE | SERVES: 6 PREP TIME: 25 MINS COOKING TIME: 3 MINS
Ingredients 6 cultivated oysters 4 rooibos tea bags 6 g agar agar 120 ml naartjie juice 30 g naartjie zest 6 g maldon sea salt 36 g fennel herb 30 g micro herbs 30 g honey
1. Shuck oyster and remove from shell, place in smoker and smoke with rooibos tea for 3 minutes, remove from smoker and allow to cool to room temperature.
From top to bottom: The Conrad Pezula kitchen team; one of the resort's fine dining areas; The private castles Head Housekeeper, Francina; and the famous castles.
2. Dissolve agar agar with naartjie juice, zest and water in a hot pan, whisk the mixture for 2 minutes over medium heat. Pour mixture into a flat container and allow setting in the fridge for 20 minutes. Once agar agar has set remove from the container and roughly chop.
3. Place naartjie agar agar on the centre of the plate, place rooibos smoked oyster onto of the agar agar, garnish with micro herbs and fennel, serve immediately.
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Rhymes with
ORANGE
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food
We peel back the layers of this incredibly delicious, versatile and nutritious fruit… Thoughts of oranges immediately lead you to think
marmalade there is almost nothing that this little
of all the vitamin-C benefits, and often of times
fruit can’t accomplish.
when you would be given a wedge of an orange at half-time during a rugby or hockey match when
In the words of Frank Sinatra, “Orange is the happiest
you were a kid. I have fond memories of climbing
colour”.
our orange tree and picking the best option I could reach, peeling it (leaving me with orange nails) and
Health benefits of oranges:
eating it before I managed to get back to the house.
- Helps Prevent Cancer
There is a reason why parents are more than happy
- Helps Prevent Kidney Diseases
to have their kids munch on this delicious fruit, and it
- Reduces Risk of Liver Cancer
has worked hard to earn its reputation.
- Lowers Cholesterol - Boosts Heart Health
Sweet oranges are a hybrid of pomelo and
- Lowers Risk of Disease
mandarin. Not just as a simple backcrossed BC1
- Fights Against Viral Infections
hybrid, but hybridized over several generations.
- Relieves Constipation
It has been found that oranges are the most cultivated fruit tree in the world and are mostly grown in tropical and subtropical climates. The name oranges refers mainly to the sweet oranges. The fruit of any citrus tree is considered a type of berry because it has a number of seeds, is soft and fleshy, stems from a single ovary and is covered in a rind. Nutritionally they contain vitamin C,
“
- Helps Create Good Vision - Regulates High Blood Pressure - Protects Skin - Alkalize the Body - Provides Smart Carbs - Helps brain development - Great for diabetics
fibre, folate, vitamin B1, pantothenic acid, copper, potassium and calcium. They are also incredibly versatile when it comes to what you can do with oranges. Eaten fresh, as a freshly squeezed glass of juice, added into sweet or savoury dishes, or even as mom’s home-made
It has been found that oranges are the most cultivated fruit tree in the world.
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easy | Serves: 8-10 Prep Time: 20 mins Cooking Time: 270 mins
3. Put the cream cheese, orange zest, mascarpone, sugar and milk into a bowl and mix it well with the wooden spoon.
Ingredients 175 g Ginger Biscuits 75 g butter, melted
4. Put the cream in a clean bowl and whisk until it is the consistency of thick custard. Add the cream to the orange mixture and mix thoroughly.
400 g cream cheese
5. Remove the spring form cake
Grated zest of 3 oranges
tin from the fridge. Pour the filling
200 g mascarpone cheese
over the biscuit base and spread
100 g castor sugar
evenly.
45 ml milk
6. Return the cheesecake to the
180 ml cream
fridge until ready to serve (at least
Gooseberries for serving
4 hours or overnight). Just before
1. Crush the biscuits roughly. You can either do this by putting them
serving decorate with orange segments or thin orange slices and gooseberries.
in a plastic food bag and crushing them with a wooden spoon or you
Note:
can crumble them with your fingers.
I roughly pulse the biscuits in my
2. Put the biscuits into a bowl and
orange cheesecake with gooseberries
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food processor, be careful not to
mix in the melted butter. Put the
overdo it as you do not want biscuit
mixture into a 23cm spring form
powder.
cake tin and, using your fingers or the
If you are a nervous cook or in a hurry
back of a spoon to spread it evenly,
to get the cheesecake set, add 15ml
press it down in the tin to form the
sponged gelatine powder to the
base. Put the tin into the fridge
mixture at the end and mix well.
to set. This should take about 30
You can replace the cream cheese
minutes.
with orange curd.
What's in
season Here is our winter seasonal guide. Keeping you up to date as to what is readily available on the shelves in your local stores across South Africa. Fruit Winter melon, kiwi, lime, paw -paw, oranges (navel), grapefruit, naartjie, gooseberries, guava Vegetables Red pepper, avocados, beetroot, broccoli, cabbage, kale, leeks, celery, cauliflower, mushrooms, baby marrow, parsnip, spring onions, broad beans, peas and asparagus. Herbs Basil, bay leaves, bulb fennel, calendula, cat mint, dandelion, fennel, garlic chives, garden cress, lavender, lemon grass stems, lime leaves, marjoram, mint, mustard (green & red), nasturtiums, nettle, parsley, rocket, sage (limited), sorrel, bloody sorrel, thyme, sweet marjoram, oreganum, rosemary. Available All year long . . . Banana, butternut, carrots, cucumber, lemon, lettuce, onion, pineapple, potato, pumpkin, radish, squash and sweet potato.
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Bonjour
PARADISE
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A mere 4-hour flight on Air Mauritius from Johannesburg is all it takes to leave behind the chaos and pressure of everyday life and enter a world of absolute tranquillity. As soon as the wheels touched down on the island I knew, without a shadow of doubt, that Mauritius was about to steal my heart. Having made all our travel arrangements through World Leisure Holidays, everything was a breeze. There is something extra special about arriving at your destination, especially one of such exquisite beauty, cloaked in darkness. When you awake the next morning it feels as though the sun has rolled back the layers of a starry night to reveal your destination’s true beauty, and you can feel the island stretch and yawn in anticipation of another spectacular day of white sands, clear skies and blue seas. Long Beach, as you might imagine, takes its name from the 1.3km of pristine white beaches that stretch the length of the resort. The resort boasts five restaurants, a gym, climbing wall, tennis court, yoga lawn and, please let us not forget, the spa. We were thrilled to discover that Anastasia, our hostess, had already arranged our itinerary for our stay on the island. Having only seen the centre of the resort, we were keen to explore all that it had
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Sandy Scioli Since April 2011, Sandy has been responsible for the design and creation of the desserts on the Long Beach menus, as well as confectionary and breads. She alone manages the patisserie sections for the five restaurants at the resort. After 25 years in France, Sandy decided to return to her homeland to work in Mauritius luxury hotels. It was at the Prince Maurice that she made her debut in Mauritian gastronomy. In 2003 she was given the title “Disciple d’Auguste Escoffier”. Her path then took her to London in 2006/ 2007 where she worked in a 100% organic salon de thé. She missed the excitement of the Mauritian restaurant scene and returned to the island.
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to offer, and were left completely speechless when we walked the path down to the beach and saw what lay before us. An absolutely picture-perfect view. We were fortunate enough not to have to tear our eyes away from the view for too long, as our lunch with the General Manager, Alessandro Schenone, was at the stunning Tides restaurant, on the beach. The sand between your toes, the view of the ocean and a mouth-watering meal are almost more than your senses can take. Excited to meet the chef who prepared the meal, we were pleased to discover that Chef Darel is actually based at the Italian-inspired Sapori Restaurant. This cemented our decision to head there for dinner – and we were not disappointed! Thanks to Chef Darel’s inspired choice of menu, we were served up an absolutely delightful four-course meal. The resort has so much to offer, so ensuring you have enough time to enjoy everything is absolutely essential. Whether there to enjoy a romantic getaway for two, or a family vacation, there is something for everyone. Small children and teens are kept entertained by the Kids Club and Teens Club, whilst the adults can take in the championship golf course or the spa. Dinners have never been so much fun, with five differentlythemed dining experiences to
The sand between your toes, the view of
the ocean and a mouth-watering meal are almost
more than your senses can take.
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“
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choose from, followed by evening entertainment, including live bands.
“
After a relaxing back massage at the spa, we took a ferry to the Ile aux Cerfs. This privately owned island has activities galore, as well as two restaurants, making the most of the incredible range of seafood available on the island. Back at the Long Beach Resort we were treated to a meal in the company of the Food and Beverage Manager, Sander Ackerman, at the Japanese-themed fine dining restaurant, Hasu. This delightful meal included sushi, seafood tempura, steamed sacrechien fish with kumbu salad and sake, followed by the mouthwatering dessert of yoghurt meringue, bubble lemon-ice biscuit and homemade almond praline. To our delight, we were there to witness one of the many evening dances performed by locals, leaving us absolutely enchanted. Venturing out of the resort, we took a short trip to the famous Port Louis. There is something truly spectacular about visiting the market place. There are bright and vivacious colours
Sous chef Darel Bazerque Born and raised in Mauritius, Chef Darel moved off the island to work on Star Princess Cruise for a year in 2009. From there he moved onto the One & Only, The Palm, Dubai where he stayed until he moved onto the Burj Al Arab, UAE, as the Chef de Partie in 2012. Although working for one of the most luxurious hotels in the world was an experience that he will never forget, Chef
The resort has so much to offer, so ensuring you have enough time to enjoy everything is absolutely essential. Whether there to enjoy a romantic getaway for two, or a family vacation, there is something for everyone.
Darel felt the calling to return to his home town where he took up residence as Sous Chef at Sapori Restaurant at Long Beach Resort in 2013.
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“ Sous chef Sanjay Aujayeb Chef Sanjay is a Sous Chef at Long Beach. Having started in Stewarding in 1996, he moved into the kitchen in 1997, and was awarded Best Chef in Culinary Challenge in both Coco Beach
Leave behind the chaos and pressure of everyday life and enter a world of absolute tranquillity. everywhere, giving you a complete sense of celebration and joy.
and Mauritius. He was sent to Malaysia in 2002 and then went on to Australia in 2006 for further training and food promotion. In 2012 he was promoted to Sous Chef at the Hasu Restaurant at Long Beach Resort and has since held that position. He is well trained in Italian, Mauritian, Indian, Lebanese and Chinese cuisine.
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Absolutely certain that nothing could possibly have made our stay more memorable, we were completely blown away by a braai on the beach for our last evening at Long Beach Resort in the wonderful company of Sander once again. The spread included individually served starters, sides and desserts, whilst the braai allowed you to choose from an array of meats.
The bonfire in the background added to the ambience, burning into our memories a vivid picture of a marvellous visit to Mauritius.
Established in 1969, Chalmar Beef has grown from feedlot into a dynamic concept in beef production. Today the trademark of Chalmar Beef is known for superior quality, tenderness, and a satisfying taste experience. A superb culinary experience that has placed this unique company right at the top of the beef producing industry. Reasons why people love Chalmar Beef - Visual appeal. Colour, grain and fantastic marbling. - The flavour is beefy and not synthetic and of the highest quality. - It is firm and tender muscle. - Shrinkage in cooking is minimal. - Shelf life is excellent. - Excellent service and a market leader in offering online sales to all Gauteng customers. Customers must know where the beef is from and become proactive in product origin and supporting local products.
chalmarbeef
chalmarbeef chalmarbeef plus.google.com/u/
Tel: (+27) 11 964 1880 Email: info@chalmarbeef.co.za Website: www.chalmarbeef.co.za
0/b/11030701523678 7998585/+Chalmar beefCoZa/posts
food
Island chefs create a stir at Beverly Hills
Island
flavour
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A total of 25 hotels from the Cape, Port Elizabeth, KwaZulu-Natal and Gauteng will take part in the Cape Legends Inter Hotel Challenge this year. This is a competition where young candidate chefs and candidate wine stewards are mentored by chefs and sommeliers before competing against each other for the coveted title and prizes that include study bursaries. The competition is now in its third year, but this initiative goes beyond the competitive and has become a unifying and collaborative force in the hotel industry, reaching out and encompassing the broad and important role of development and advancement. Beverly Hills Hotel in Umhlanga was host to a most memorable dinner where visiting chefs from the Indian Ocean islands had the opportunity to showcase their culinary skills with traditional island-style seafood. The four highly accomplished chefs who were invited to Durban to share their skills with young aspiring chefs, were: Executive Chef from the Seychelles Paradise Sun, Chef Davinder Rawat;
Clockwise from left: Vikash Coonjan, Davinder Rawat, Deputy Minister of Tourism Thokozile Xasa, Cursley Lebrass and Don Chandana; Dishing up one of the evenings delicious ensembles; Exec chef Vikash Coonjan plates one of his dishes; Grilled red snapper steak with pickled vegetables.
Chef Cursley Lebrass from Maia in the Seychelles; Chef Vikash Coonjan from Mauritius’ One&Only Le Saint Géran; Chef Don Chandana Ratnasiri Munasingha from Abu Dhabi. “Culinary excellence is very much part of the Beverly Hills’ brand essence,’’ stated General Manager, John de Canha, '’and we are delighted that Beverly Hills was chosen as the venue to host this glamorous event. The success of our industry lies in the youth and it has been heartwarming to witness the enthusiastic exchange of skills. The team in our kitchen have definitely benefitted from the training over the past week. The Indian Ocean islands and the KwaZulu-Natal coast share a similar climate and seafood remains a strong
favourite on all our menus. Our guests will now enjoy new dishes inspired from these islands.‘’ '’We are privileged to have the visiting chefs in a most valuable exchange of creativity - an inspiration to all our candidates who have benefitted from an introduction to the island tables and to Abu Dhabi, which has its own very special flavour. Hearing about their ingredients, their markets and the colourful way in which they present their fragrant dishes. This has been a work in progress and a moveable feast as we mutually enjoy our rich heritage,’’ enthused Annette Kessler, founder of the Inter Hotel Challenge.
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ginja advertorial
F, FRANCOIS
INJA CHE RECIPE BY G
FERREIRA
#bakehappy
divine cocoa Chocolate manufacture has been an important industry in Europe since the late 18th century. The great names in chocolate like Droste, van Houten (Holland); Lindt and Suchard (Switzerland); Menier (France); Fry, Cadbury and Rowntree (England) can trace their history back to the mid 19th century and even earlier. Chocolate manufacture is a complex process with a substantial investment in machinery. It starts with the cacao beans imported form the country of origin as fermented, dried beans. More than 30 varieties are available, and the manufacturers’ first concern is blending, using several varieties of bean to produce the desired flavour. After cleaning the beans, the next process in manufacture is roasting. This process is important for developing the flavour, and reduces the moisture
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food
“ content to a level appropriate during later processing. The roasting process facilitates the removal of the shells of the beans in the next process, which is winnowing, when the beans are cracked between rollers, and the husks removed, leaving only the kernels or nibs.
More than 30 varieties are available, and
the manufacturers’ first concern is blending, using several varieties of bean to produce the desired flavour.
The nib is the part of the bean used for chocolate and cocoa manufacture.
particles in the mixture so that they are
butter content, intended as a long
The nib is then reduced to a paste by
imperceptible to the palate.
shelf life product for bakers and craft
grinding. Earlier stone mills were used,
confectioners.
copying the Aztec method, but these
The mass goes through a series of
days’ very sophisticated metal mills
rollers, each roller rotates faster than
How is milk chocolate made?
with temperature controls are used.
the one before. They have a shearing
Fresh milk, concentrated to a solids
Temperature is important as the heat
action and the mass comes out almost
content of 30-40% is used; sugar
created by the grinding releases the fat
powdery.
is added and the mixture further
or cocoa butter from the nib.
condensed, under vacuum, to a dry
The mass emerging from the grinder is
Then the mass goes through the
matter content of about 90%. This is
known as chocolate liquor, chocolate
conching process. A conche like roller
then mixed with the chocolate liquor,
mass or pate.
works the chocolate back and forth
making a stiff mixture that is dried and
exposing fresh surfaces to air. During
broken up. Processing follows the same
Cooled and hardened this liquor
conching, flavour develops, moisture
steps as for plain chocolate. Conching
becomes basic unsweetened chocolate.
content is lowered further and more fat
takes place at a lower temperature for
Some liquor is used to make cocoa,
is squeezed out of the cocoa particles.
a longer time. This prevents the lactose
pressing it to release more cocoa butter,
Conching may take from several hours
form aggregating and giving a lumpy
and grinding the residue to powder do
to a week, depending on the required
consistency.
this.
quality of the chocolate. Towards the end of the conching process flavourings
Oscar Wilde wrote in A Woman of No
To make plain chocolate, the liquor is
like vanilla, mint, orange and coffee are
Importance:
mixed with powdered sugar. Cocoa
added.
“After a good dinner, one can forgive
butter is added to adjust the consistency.
anybody, even one’s own relations.”
This results in a stiff paste, which goes
What is Chocolate Couverture?
I am sure this goes for chocolate as
for refining; this reduces the size of the
This is chocolate with a very high cocoa
well!
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Vegan indulgence A selection of yummy chocolate vegan dessert recipes
Chocolate Pudding EASY | Makes: 4 - 6 servings Prep Time: 10 min Cooking Time: 0 min
Ingredients 1 cup unsweetened almond milk 2 ripe avocados, peeled and pitted 75 g cacao powder ½ cup maple syrup 2 tsp vanilla extract ¼ tsp almond extract ¼ tsp ground cinnamon Pinch of sea salt To Serve Coconut shavings Chia seeds Cacao nibs
1. In a food processor combine ingredients until smooth and creamy.
2. Transfer mixture into individual bowls and chill in the fridge for at least 3 hours.
3. To serve, top each pudding with coconut, chia seeds and cacao nibs. Note-the pudding works best with ripe avocados that don't have any brown discolourations. The pudding is best the day it's made, as the avocados will oxidize and the flavours will change over time.
about 15cm long and 5cm in diameter. Roll up
EASY | Makes: 2 logs
Roll back and forth on a work surface a few times
Prep Time: 15 min
to make the log evenly round. Repeat with the
Cooking Time: 15 min
remaining mixture. Refrigerate the logs until firm,
Ingredients ½ cup unsalted pistachios ½ cup slivered almonds ½ cup walnuts, roughly chopped ½ cup hazelnuts, roughly chopped 100 g Orgran Amaretti Biscotti, crushed
the log in the plastic and twist the ends to seal.
food
Chocolate Salami
about 1 hour.
5. Once set, remove the cling film. Sieve the icing
“
sugar on a large tray and roll the salami in this. You can also tie it up with a string for a more salami like effect. Let the logs sit at room temperature for 15 minutes. Using a sharp serrated knife, cut the logs into 2cm-thick slices and serve.
300 g best quality dark chocolate 100 g coconut butter ¼ cup brewed coffee, chilled ¼ tsp ground cinnamon ¼ cup icing sugar (optional) White twine
1. Preheat oven to 180°C. 2. Place nuts and biscotti in a food processor,
With more people looking at going vegan, delicious alternatives to your run of the mill chocolate delicacies are easy to create.
pulse until the mixture has a coarse texture. Spread mixture in a single layer on a baking sheet. Bake until lightly toasted, 6 to 8 minutes. Cool completely.
3. Put the chocolate and coconut butter in a heatproof medium bowl and place the bowl over a pan of barely simmering water. Stir until the chocolate has melted and the mixture is smooth, about 6 minutes. Stir in the coffee until smooth. Set aside to cool, about 5 minutes. Add the nut-biscotti mixture and cinnamon, stir until combined. Cover the bowl and refrigerate until firm but mouldable, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
4. Divide the mixture in half. Place half of the mixture in the center of a 30cm piece of plastic wrap. Using a spatula, form the mixture into a log,
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No Bake Tartlets with Chocolate Ganache
To serve Pistachio nuts, coarsely chopped
1. To make the crust, grind oats in a food processor fitted with the S blade till powder.
EASY | Makes: 4 tartlets
Add walnuts and almonds, grind till they're
Prep Time: 15 min
quite crumbly. Add sea salt and 3 Tbsps
Cooking Time: 0 min
cacao and pulse to combine. Add the dates
Ingredients For the crust ¾ cup rolled oats
to the processor and process till mixture is sticking together. Add 1 tbsp maple syrup and continue to process till mixture is holding together really well.
½ cup walnuts
2. Press crust into 4 x 6cm tartlet pans
½ cup almonds
or cake rings, making sure to keep the
¼ tsp sea salt, plus an extra pinch for the
thickness even and get the sides nice and
filling
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¼ cup water
high. Refrigerate for one hour.
3 Tbsps cacao powder
3. In a high speed blender, blend the
6 large, pitted medjool dates
cashews, oil, 1/3 cup maple syrup, 1/3 cup
1 Tbsp maple syrup
cacao or cocoa powder, vanilla, water, and
For the chocolate ganache filling
a pinch of sea salt. Let it blend for as long
1 cup cashews, soaked overnight or for at
as necessary to make it completely, silky
least four hours
smooth.
80 ml cup coconut oil
4. Pour the filling into the tartlet shells.
80 ml maple syrup
Refrigerate for several hours before serving,
75 g cacao powder
to let the ganache set. Top with chopped
1 tsp vanilla
pistachios.
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ginja advertorial
The Francois Ferreira Academy was
Etiquette, and short courses in Brandy,
established in 2004 in the small town
Wine, Port and Muscadel appreciation.
of George in the Western Cape. The
Excellence in Culinary & Hospitality Training
Francois Ferreira
academy
74
Academy is recognised as a training
During the 2 year fulltime course,
provider by the South African Chefs
students gain practical experience for
Association and the Cha卯ne des
six months by being placed in reputable
R么tisseurs, and is accredited with City &
establishments working under leaders
Guilds and CATHSSETA.
in the hospitality industry. Many of the graduates have become leaders in the
The Francois Ferreira Academy
industry themselves, locally as well as
enhances the full time courses by
internationally. The secret of our success
adding on subjects that will give our
is that the classes do not exceed 20
students a valuable and competitive
students at a time.
edge when entering the food industry. These subjects include Cake
The Principal, Francois Ferreira, acclaimed
Decorating & Sugar Work, Basic French,
chef and author of several cookery
Basic IsiXhosa, Hospitality Financial
books, leads a dedicated professional
Management, Event Management,
team of tutors. The Vice Principal, Denise
Entrepreneurship, Business & Social
Lindley, Business Entrepreneur, Wine
Connoisseur, and Hotel Assessor, recently
Training Programme, an initiative of the
joined the Academy to ensure that all
Department of Tourism and the South
fields in this highly competitive industry
African Chefs Association.
are taken care of. Being situated in George, at the heart of Both are members of the Chaîne des
the Garden Route tourist mecca, gives
Rôtisseurs, an international gourmand
the students the opportunity to develop
society, of which Chef Francois has
and grow in an environment conducive
been the Bailli Délégué (National
to their studies by interfacing with
President) of the South African chapter
excellent restaurants and hospitality
for the last 5 years.
establishments, as well as safe and healthy outdoor activities.
Strong ties with the Cape Wine Academy, the South African Chefs
Those interested in pursuing a career
Association and industry leaders
in the growing hospitality industry can
mean that the Academy is at the
apply for the January 2016 intake by
cutting edge of development in the
contacting Lydia at the Academy on
industry. The Academy is actively
+27 (0) 44 884 0765 or e-mail
involved in the National Young Chefs
info@francoisferreira.com.
Courses include:
- Certificate in Food Preparation and Cooking - Diploma in Food Preparation and Cooking (Culinary Arts) - Diploma in Food Prep & Cooking (Patisserie) - Advanced Diploma in Food - Preparation and Cookery Supervision - Certificate in Food & Beverage Service - Diploma in Food & Beverage Service - Advanced Diploma in Food & Beverage Service - Certificate in Reception Services - Diploma in Reception Services - Advanced Diploma in Reception and Front Office Services
75
drinks
the south african
chocolate coffee pinotage Words by Denise Lindley and Wian Liebenberg
“ I bet that Abraham Perold, the first Professor of Viticulture at Stellenbosch University, had no idea of the phenomenon he would unleash 76 years later, when he first started experimenting with his hermitage (cinsaut) and pinot noir grapes, and discovered our very own unique grape, pinotage. Perold planted four seeds in the garden of his official residence at Welgevallen Experimental Farm and then seems to have forgotten about them. The newly experimental plant was only discovered in 1927 by Charlie Niehaus, when he was a young lecturer. CT de Waal is credited with making the first pinotage wine in small casks at Elsenburg in 1941 and the first wine estate to bottle wine made from 100% pinotage in 1959 was Bellvue wine estate under the Lanzerac brand, going on to become a champion wine at the Cape Wine Show in 1961. About 10 years ago, Bertus Fourie, who was then the winemaker at Diemersfontein, accidently came across this prodigy, the chocolate coffee pinotage. Prior to this, our pinotage was identified by its strawberry, raspberry jam, toffee and banana notes. Then Bertus, who is a graduate of the University of Stellenbosch, and who experimented with the effects of wood aging on wine, found that by lining steel tanks with heavily charred French oak staves, and fermenting the wine with a special strain
Today, pinotage comprises 7% of the
The Skinniest Latte
total national vineyards, so it is
being cultivated on a fairly large scale. of yeast, the wine developed an uncanny essence of espresso as well as chocolate (the secret is in the temperature and the duration of toasting) Other wine varieties can also be used, like shiraz or cabernet sauvignon, but pinotage wins first prize of being the most successful grape to achieve this distinctive dark chocolate and coffee character. This style of wine has become very popular in South Africa and is spreading internationally. The wine industry as a whole in South Africa is undergoing an exciting period of change, both in the vineyard and in the winery. Winemakers are experimenting with new varieties of vine, as well as new clones of existing varietals. Viticulturists are hard at work matching vine varieties to soils and climates in order to achieve the best results. Prior to Bertus’ experiments, pinotage was not a particularly popular wine and not of
www.hulettssugar.co.za
drinks
OUR SELECTION OF FINE CHOCOLATE COFFEE PINOTAGE
Pinotage Barista Paarl, South Africa
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Chocoholic Pinotage Darling Cellars Darling, South Africa
Tasting Notes: Enjoy this wine on its own , at room temperature, or slightly chilled, or pair it with South African “braai� foods.
Tasting Notes: Flavours of redcurrant, berried fruits and bittersweet cocoa are suggested. A unique and delicious release, Chocoholic makes a delightful partner to rich red meat dishes and chocolate based desserts.
Cappupino Ccinotage Boland Cellars Paarl, South Africa
The Pinotage Diemersfontein Wellington, South Africa
Tasting Notes: Serving at room temperature will enhance the berry flavour and earthiness, chilling it down a bit will bring more of a wood and sharp taste of mocha to the pallet. Going lovely with spiced food such as a nice lamb curry.
Tasting Notes: On the nose distinct coffee, rich dark chocolate and baked plums. The ripe subtle tannins create a wine to be drunk very young. This unique style of Pinotage is a perfect accompaniment to salmon, roast venison and even chocolate mousse.
great quality, with South Africans being tolerant of it because it was “our” grape, but it seemed doomed after a group of British Wine Masters criticised it and called it horrible. It was Beyers Truter in 1987, when he was winemaker at Kanonkop, who won the Diners Club Winemaker of the Year for his pinotage and who popularised the pinotage we know today. He also went on to win International Winemaker of the Year at the 1991 International Wine and Spirit Competition, but it took Bertus “Starbucks” Fourie to develop this trend which has become almost a cult in South Africa. He made the first chocolate coffee pinotage at Diemersfontein in 2001, and the rest is history. Bertus left Diemersfontein and went on to make his first Barista Pinotage in 2009 under his own label.
Making Every Day Sweeter
Sweet Enjoyment
“
Today, pinotage comprises 7% of the total national vineyards, so it is being cultivated on a fairly large scale, compared to pinot noir which is 1% of national vineyards and merlot 6% with the winner being cabernet sauvignon at 12%.
Winemakers are experimenting with new varieties of vine,
as well as new clones of existing varietals.
www.hulettssugar.co.za
drinks
CaLITZDORP
winter festival Words by Denise Lindley
Last year I attended the Port Festival in Calitzdorp for the first time, and was blown away by the amazing experience, and decided that come hell or high water, I would attend again this year. So I managed to very easily sell the idea to some friends, and in the end, there were 7 of us who went to enjoy the weekend. The programme for the weekend promised a lot of tastings, street parties, cocktail parties, organ recitals, you name it, they had it on offer. My dilemma was trying to fit in as many of the activities as possible without overlapping each other. So I scrambled around trying and managed very well to make bookings for all the events that we wanted to attend. The first was an Afro Portuguese tasting at Boplaas that was presented by Chef Francois Ferreira, and assisted by the students of the Francois Ferreira Academy, a cookery school based in George. Francois spoke about the food and his inspiration behind the pairing of each dish with the 5 different course,
Making Every Day Sweeter
This year, if you wanted to taste and buy all the wines, you had to drive to each wine farm. The Portuguese restaurant in town, Porto Deli, was holding port, wine and tapas tastings with the other smaller cellars, like Peter Bayly, Du Swaroo and TTT.
Entertain with Style
Next door to the station was De Krans, where we were attending Francois Ferreira’s Tango of Tastes in the afternoon. On arrival, there were pink port cocktails on offer outside in the courtyard that were being mixed by De Krans winemaker, Louis van der Riet. We couldn’t resist buying them, and went and sat in the vineyard sipping on the cocktails in the warm sunshine.
each of which was tasted with a wine and a port. Carel Nel of Boplaas and his daughter Rozanne presented the wines and the ports. My favourite pairing was the Mealie Meal Flapjacks topped with Chorizo and Tomato, which was matched with the Touriga Nacional and Boplaas Cape Vintage. There were 40
“
We were soon ushered into the tasting room that was all set up with 4 different snacks to pair with a different wine and a port. Francois made a grand entrance into the room and tangoed around the wooden posts to great
privileged people at this tasting, and they could have easily scheduled a few more of the same, there were so many people wanting to attend. After Boplaas, we wandered down the road to the Calitzdorp Station, where vendors had set up food stalls, with others selling dried fruits from the area, clothing, preserves etc. and there were even donkey rides for the kids. I was saddened to see that the station was not nearly as busy as last year, maybe because all the wine farms in the area that were offering tastings last year, were absent.
On entering the cellar where the cocktail party was held, we were treated to the most magical experience. The cellar was lit by hundreds of candles
strategically placed to show off all the different artworks on display.
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82
applause. He presented the wines paired
On entering the cellar where the cocktail
After the surfeit of food and wine we had
with the different tastes, and we finished
party was held, we were treated to the
indulged in all day, we decided to forego
off with a dessert that was served by the
most magical experience. The cellar was
the street party and braai, and headed
students again. Without doubt the best
lit by hundreds of candles strategically
for our beds for the night. We drove
pairing was the Melk Tert Brule served
placed to show off all the different
20kms out of town to Rietfontein Ostrich
with De Krans MCC and their Pink Port.
artworks on display. At the entrance,
Palace, which boasts that is the oldest
we were offered a cocktail which was
established ostrich farm in the world.
Francois disappeared all of a sudden,
served with 2 different snacks, and about
and re appeared again dressed as a Zulu
20 feet further on, there was another
Our accommodation was in a beautifully
Princess, Nandi, and gave us another
cocktail with two more snacks. And so
converted farmhouse, equipped with
tango! It was really most entertaining,
we walked on where we found cocktails
some very elegant antique furniture,
with the audience enthralled by his
being paired with different snacks at
and was extremely comfortable and
performance!
various stops in the cellar, until we came
warm. Elmare and Kobus Potgieter, fifth
to a large open area with a stage. Andre
generation owners, really make you feel
We relaxed for a while at De Krans, and
Swiegers came on stage, where he
very welcome and at home. The electric
over a bottle of their chenin blanc, we built
provided entertainment to the select
blankets and heaters provided in the
up the energy to go to the next event, the
audience, but his music and songs were
bedrooms were particularly welcome at
cocktail party at Calitzdorp Cellars. You
very sombre, and not in keeping with the
night when it was so cold.
would have thought that by this time we
mood of the occasion, so we left before
had had sufficient food and wine!
he finished playing.
Sunday morning dawned mild and sunny,
Making Every Day Sweeter
and it was ideal weather for the Calitzdorp
5 different snacks on each platter. All
Cellars Brunch. As we arrived early in
this food was washed down with wines
Calitzdorp, we decided to pop in at Axe Hill
provided by Boplaas and De Krans. We
Cellars for a port tasting, where we met
were entertained with live music, and the
Mike Neebe, the owner, cellarmaster and
brunch turned out to be a very pleasant
winemaker. I particularly enjoyed his white
sojourn, so much so that we stayed until
port, with the lovely rich Cape Vintage
well into the afternoon.
Sweet Sophistication
coming a close second. By this stage we were all well and truly Back at Calitzdorp Cellars for the brunch,
wined out, and strolled around the village
we were greeted with glasses of the
for some exercise before driving back to
newly released MCC from de Krans, made
Rietfontein. Declining any more food and
from an unusual blend of chardonnay,
wine, we all had an early night to dream of
chenin blanc and tinta barocca, the first
our very memorable weekend.
time a tinta has been used in a South African MCC. We sat at long tables on
Impressive wines:
the veranda of the tasting room, and
De Krans: Tritonia, an unusual blend of
the ladies from the NG Kerk had really
tinta barocca, tempranillo and touriga
excelled themselves with the huge array
nacional.
of food they served. They kept bringing
De Krans: Cape Pink and Cape Vintage
huge platters to the tables, with at least
Reserve. Boplaas: Cape Tawny and the Chocolate Cape Reserve and Cape Tawny Vintner’s Reserve. All the wines from Fledge and Co, made by Margaux Nel (winemaker at Boplaas) and Leon Coetzee. Peter Bayly: Cape White. Axe Hill: Cape White. BY THE WAY; From January 2012, South African producers can no longer use the term “Port” for any wine product made outside of Portugal, so we now use the names, Cape Tawny, Ruby, Vintage etc.
www.hulettssugar.co.za
Out of THE BOX The Oyster Box's Executive Chef Kevin Joseph
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food
Award-winning executive chef, Kevin Joseph has been at The Oyster Box for ten years. He started his career in the South African Navy where he received his basic chef training and has since accumulated a wealth of hands-on experience at leading hotels in South Africa and around the world. These include The Peninsula Hotel in Cape Town, the Raffles Hotel in Singapore and the Michelin-starred ‘Tamarind’ and ‘Claridges’ Restaurants in London. He has spent time in various hotels within the Red Carnation Hotel Collection including the Breezes Resort & Spa in Bali, The Milestone and Summer Lodge Hotels in the UK and within South Africa’s Red Carnation portfolio, the international award winning Bushman’s Kloof Wilderness Reserve & Wellness Retreat and the Twelve Apostles in Cape Town. Kevin is a member of the South African Chef’s Association and the International Wine and Food Society. He is the current chairman of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, KwaZulu-Natal (KZN) branch. The Oyster Box is the recipient of a prestigious Blazon by the Chaîne.
“
Kevin describes his cooking style as ‘classic with a twist of modern’. He is passionate about food and cooks from the heart…an attitude he has clearly passed onto his two young sons, who he says are both his biggest critics and biggest supporters. He loves cooking with them, because of their uncontrived enthusiasm for experimentation, which he adds, makes him
Kevin describes his cooking style as ‘classic with a twist of modern’. He is passionate about food and cooks from the heart…
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food
look at cooking with different eyes. Kevin believes in generous portions and gets the most pleasure from people enjoying good food. Kevin is emphatic about using the freshest ingredients available and preferring to source ingredients locally, where possible.
Coffee and Chocolate Mousse hard | Serves: 6 Prep Time: 30 mins Cooking Time: 45 mins
Ingredients For the cake 7 eggs Pinch of salt ¾ cup granulated sugar ½ cup good quality Dutch cocoa ½ cup hazelnuts or almonds For the mousse 230 g bittersweet chocolate ½ cup brewed coffee 4 eggs, separated Cake
1. Finely grind the nuts and set aside. 2. Separate the eggs. 3. In a cold glass bowl, beat the egg whites with the salt until stiff peaks form.
4. In a separate bowl, beat the egg yolks until
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thick and pale yellow in colour.
5. Add sugar to the egg yolks, beating constantly.
6. Add the coca and mix thoroughly. 7. Gently fold in the egg whites and ground nuts into the chocolate mixture.
8. Pour in to a baking tray and oven for 45 minutes at 160 ÂşC.
9. Remove the pan from the oven and allow
to cool.
10. Cake may fall in center which is okay.
DECADENT CHOCOLATE BROWNIE hard | Serves: 6 Prep Time: 20 mins Cooking Time: 60 mins
Ingredients 160 g flour 160 g cocoa
mousse
1. In a double boiler, melt the chocolate and set aside to cool.
2. Brew the coffee and set aside to cool. 3. Separate the eggs. 4. In a medium sized bowl beat the egg
whites until peaks form.
5. In a separate bowl, mix together the chocolate, coffee, and egg yolks until well incorporated.
6. Gently fold in the egg whites, chill in the refrigerator until firm.
Pinch of salt 380 g butter 2 tot’s espresso 300 g dark chocolate (best quality) 4 eggs 300 g castor sugar 400 g roughly chopped dark chocolate
1. Melt the chocolate, espresso and butter over a double boiler.
2. In a separate bowl sift the flour, cocoa and salt together. Beat the eggs and the
To assemble
sugar together until light and fluffy. Add the
Using a spatula, scoop out the mousse from
chocolate mixture to the eggs and fold in the
the bowl and put into the center of the cake.
dry ingredients. Pour this mixture into a lined
Refrigerate the cake until ready to serve.
casserole dish.
Remove from the pan and slice with a very
3. Sprinkle the chopped chocolate pieces
sharp knife.
on top and bake at 160 ÂşC for approximately 1 hour. The brownies must still be soft in the centre.
4. Serve these delicious brownies with some fresh whipped cream or a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
31
chocolate & wine pairing
88
drinks
There is something ever so slightly rebellious in the idea of wine and chocolate coming together in a symphony of pure indulgence. Wine’s natural acidity combined with the creamy smoothness of the chocolate is something that has to be matched to perfection. As South African’s we are incredibly spoilt with such a wide range of wine farms. We take a look at those who match their wines to chocolate to create a heavenly experience.
“ Wine’s natural acidity
Lourensford Nestled in the fertile bowl of the
CHOCOLATE & WINE PAIRING
Helderberg Mountains, Lourensford Wine
Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 -
Estate has designed a unique chocolate
Malted plum dark chocolate
and wine pairing which consists of three red wines, each with its own personality and a very decadent non-vintage Honey Liqueur. The chocolates were specifically designed to enhance the flavours in the wine. (The process took three months to obtain the correct flavours. To allow this very special experience to tickle and tantalize the taste buds, we should first compare the smell/nose of each wine with the desired chocolate.
Merlot 2013 - Grape Kirsch Cherry dark chocolate Shiraz, Mourvedre, Viognier (Rhone style blend) 2013 - Cape Malay spice chocolate Honey Liqueur (Non-Vintage) Dark Karoo Mint chocolate
combined with the creamy smoothness of the chocolate
is something that has to be matched to perfection.
89
drinks
Creation Wines Established in 2002, this trendsetting winery has grown from strength to strength, earning a proud reputation, not only for its distinctive, terroir-reflective wines, but also for its constant innovation. Imagine for instance the pleasure of combining the plump,
“
creamy character of Creation’s Viognier with a flavourful chicken roulade served with apricot chutney. Or the generously aromatic Creation Syrah, complemented by a rich oxtail and bacon bredie. Now the ever- enterprising Creation team is taking the thrill of wine-matching even further to offer a memorable
There is something ever so slightly rebellious in the idea of wine and chocolate coming together in
90
a symphony of pure indulgence.
experience: Wine and Chocolate Pairing with an exceptional difference. CHOCOLATE & WINE PAIRING Passion Voigner - White chocolate/ peach/almond/salt (aromatic) Charisma Pinot Noir - White blackberry/ cardamom/jasmine (fragrant) Resonance Merlot - Dark chocolate with hazelnut/mocha/malt (spicy)
The chocolates are distinguished by their high cocoa content, with the beans originating from Ghana, the Ivory Coast, Madagascar and São Tomé. “The success of the pairing lies in the fact that the different chocolates have been specially blended by a celebrated local chocolatier to complement and enhance the flavour nuances and character of the wines,” says Carolyn. “For example, to match the fragrant bouquet and creamy character of our Viognier, our chocolatier has blended the deep classic flavours derived from cocoa
Déjà vu Syrah - Milk coconut/fennel/ liquorice (comple)
beans grown in Ghana and the Ivory Coast with the bright blueberry and citrus notes of their Madagascan counterpart. A heavenly combination, to say the least!”
Lanzerac
CHOCOLATE & WINE PAIRING
Nestled in the beautifully historic town
Sauvignon Blanc - white ‘Safari
PREMIUM RANGE Fruit’ chocolate
of Stellenbosch visitors to Lanzerac are
Chardonnay - white ‘Lemons
invigorated with a renewed love and passion
and Limes’ chocolate
for wine in the comfort of the stylish yet
Merlot - ‘Dark Cherry Cigar’
relaxed Tasting Room. It is here where their
chocolate
senses are taking on a journey of pure
Pinotage - chocolate dipped
chocolate and wine pairing pleasure, with
macerated cherry
two pairings on offer.
Cabernet Sauvignon - ‘Cape Malay Spice’ chocolate
Lanzerac wine and chocolate pairings are ALMA MATER RANGE
paired with their Premium range and the Alma Mater, Lanzerac’s fun lifestyle wines,
Chenin Blanc - white ‘Tropical Fruit’ chocolate
range. Although not paired with chocolate
Rosé - pink ‘Rosewater’
the final tier to make up the Lanzerac family is the Heritage wines, which comprises the Mrs English Chardonnay, Pionier Pinotage
A “ Wine & Chocolate Affair”
chocolate Shiraz - ‘Black Spice’ chocolate
and Le Général (a red blend).
Situated adjacent to the Tasting Room is the Lanzerac Deli offering guests a selection of appetizing deli items. Picnic baskets are also available to be enjoyed in the Deli’s garden overlooking the vineyards, affording you panoramic views of the winelands. The
A“ Wine & Chocolate Affair” Experience our distinguished wines paired with specially handcrafted chocolates.
Tasting Room and Deli are open seven days a week. Completing the Lanzerac story is the 5-star Lanzerac Hotel & Spa, which is the perfect weekend getaway destination or celebrate
Premium Wine & Chocolate Tasting Children’s Grapetizer & Chocolate Tasting Chocolate & Wine Gift Packs Visit our Tasting Room 7 days a week
that special day in your life. For more information on the estate, the hotel and its offerings visit www.lanzerac.co.za
tel.: +27 (0)21 886 5641 winetasting@lanzerac.co.za lanzerac wine estate lanzerac wines www.lanzeracwines.co.za
ginja advertorial
GINJA sits down with Attie Schultz – executive chef at the Southern Sun Waterfront hotel in Cape Town. GINJA: Did you eat your veggies as a child? Attie: Not really. Up until the age of 15 I think my mom had a daily battle. G: Last think you cooked for yourself? A: Grilled lamb chops on the braai with salsa verde. G: What made you interested in becoming a chef? A: I started working in a kitchen in London at the age of 19 after working in the same restaurant as a barman. I was intrigued by the chefs and eventually the owner gave me the opportunity to join them in the kitchen. I ended up studying in London and worked there for about five years as a chef.
Simple, fresh anD elegant with Attie Schultz
92
G: What is one of your family-favourite dinners? A: Slow braised short rib with porcini mushrooms. We hail from Durban and the
“
first really cold night in Cape Town called for a rich hearty meal with a fine red wine. You can’t beat this combination. G: Can you tell us a little bit about yourself? A: I am 35 years old and have been a chef for 16 years. My vision for the Southern Sun Waterfront’s Yizani restaurant is to create dining experiences where our guests want to
My vision for Yizani is to create dining experiences where our guests want to return for more…simple,
fresh and elegant.
return for more…simple, fresh and elegant. I’m married to Lauren, the love of my life.
House, Overture, Pierneef La Motte and the Lookout in Durban for the best Portuguese
G: Who cooks at home?
flatty in SA!
A: Mostly Lauren. I love her cooking and have been encouraging her to enter MasterChef
G: The dish on the menu that will follow you
for years.
wherever you go? A: Semi-deboned confit duck leg and pan
G: What do you like to eat at home?
roast breast with thyme, garlic, parsnip
A: Nothing fancy…good old school cooking.
puree, roast pearl onions, asparagus and jus.
G: Your favourite restaurant in Cape Town?
G: What is your favourite part of the job?
A: We are fairly new to Cape Town and
A: No day is ever predictable . My best
haven’t had a chance to find a favourite yet.
feeling is interacting with good people and
The one I’ve been most impressed with so far
seeing the chefs that work for me grow in
is Homespun by Matt Schreuder.
confidence and skill.
G: Your top favourite restaurants in SA?
G: Something in your fridge or freezer that
A: In no particular order: Grill Jichana at the
would surprise people?
Southern Sun Elangeni & Maharani, Hartford
A: How empty it is!
93
I firmly suspect that here, in this once-
Book review
Words by Mike Allen
secrets of a french cooking class
“
94
wealthy medieval village, a gentle reminder remains
for all of us who are but travelling through ‌ live your life Marlene Van der Westhuizen Price R 450
well. And start at your table. Marlene van der Westhuizen
This book can best be likened to a fine
to cause those with a touch of the
wine, many of which are mentioned in
wanderlust to want to delve deeper into
its pages, whether used in the recipes
the French country lifestyle.
or sampled with them. For the serious travel foodie it is a must have, as it
The photographs that hold station
covers the French countryside and
between the verbal introductions and
cuisine in delicious detail. For those
the recipes are yet another form of
amongst us more food orientated, or
taste bud teasers causing the reader to
more travel inclined, there is plenty to
wonder where next you are being led.
keep your interest. However this is a recipe book and Each chapter or perhaps section
recipes make up the major portion of it.
would be a better word to describe
They range from the simple and basic,
the courses that it is served up in, is
such as a simple short crust pastry and
preceded by an anecdotal prelude
a basic homemade mayonnaise to more
to lead into the pictorial sketch and
complex complete lunch or supper
recipes that make up that section.
dishes. I personally have not yet had the
These tales alone are sufficient
opportunity to try any of them, but that
food
could well change quite soon. As with any recipe or group of recipes, particularly ones such as these, emanating from France, one of the first questions is “Are the ingredients available in South Africa?” Well since the writer, Marlene van der Westhuizen is a Capetonian when not in France the answer to that is yes. Well, a somewhat cautious yes, some of the more unusual ingredients are to be found in major food stores in larger centres, those of us who live, like myself ‘somewhat off the beaten track’ will have to seek a little further afield than our local supermarket or corner café! Be that as it may if a recipe looks interesting enough, a little preparatory investigation will pay dividends. Another useful feature is that if a recipe calls for a specific stock, for instance, the author adds the information as to where, in the book, that recipe can be found. Of course many of us will ask the question “How difficult are the recipes?” The title I think clarifies this “Secrets of a French cooking class” not of a “French Chef’s Course”
Images and recipe extracted from Secrets of a French
Cooking Class by Marlene Van der Westhuizen and photography by Johan Wilke.
In closing, as with any fine wine, this book has many facets, some may be obvious from the start but others may only emerge after a tasting session.
95
As I’m a notoriously ungifted
5. Sift the flour and baking
sweet- toothed men has made it
powder into the chocolate mixture
necessary for me to have a couple
and gently fold the ingredients
of really simple cake recipes to fall back on. This is one of them.
CHOCOLATE
and orange cake
Stir in the melted chocolate.
pastry chef, sharing a home full of
Ingredients 2 oranges
together.
6. Pour the mixture into a greased and floured 25 cm baking tin.
7. Bake the cake for about 40 minutes or until a skewer comes out clean.
125 g dark chocolate, broken into bits
8. Pour the remaining orange
300 g caster sugar
juice and zest into a small pan and
250 g unsalted butter
melt the rest of the caster sugar
4 eggs
in it to make a thin syrup. Remove
1 tsp vanilla paste
from the heat.
200 g flour
9. Let the cake cool down slightly
1 tsp baking powder
in the tin before turning it onto a
icing sugar
cooling rack. While it is still warm,
2 Tbsps cocoa
spoon the orange syrup and
Makes 8 slices
10. When the cake has cooled,
caramelised zest over the cake.
1. Preheat the oven to 180ÂşC. 2. Zest both of the oranges and
dust with icing sugar and cocoa before serving.
then juice them.
3. Melt the chocolate over a low 4. Beat 200 g sugar and the
WIN 1 OF 2 SECRETS OF A FRENCH COOKING CLASS COOKBOOKS VALUED AT R450. To enter email "French"
butter together in a food processor
+ your full name, postal address,
until the mixture is really light and
contact and ID number to
fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time
competitions@ginjamedia.com by
and whip very well. Add the zest of
2 October 2015. T's & C's apply
one of the oranges and the vanilla.
www.ginjafood.com.
heat in a double boiler and whisk half of the orange juice into it. Cool the mixture slightly.
junior
MILK
Cold weather treats just got better...
&
COOKIES 98
Hearing a child’s laughter is all you need to put a grin on your face and appreciate the little things (and people) that you have in your life. As winter turns to spring, there is no better time to put your feet up and enjoy milk and cookies with the kids whilst watching the leaves change colour and the flowers begin to bloom. Put on your apron, grab the mixing bowl and get ready for some delicious treats and laughter galore as the kitchen becomes their playground.
Milk-and-Cookie Shots EASY | MAKES 12 SHOTS Prep Time: 25 MINS Cooking Time: 20 MINS
Ingredients For the cookies 1 cup Holsum/Wooden Spoon shortening 1/3 cup white granulated sugar 1/2 cup brown sugar 1 large egg yolk 2 tsps vanilla extract 2 cups all-purpose flour, sifted ½ tsp salt 1 cup dark chocolate drops For the cookie shots 1 cup dark chocolate drops For the milk 1 ½ cups milk
99
1 ½ tsps flavouring (e.g. vanilla extract or similar)
1. Preheat oven to 180°C. Grease the shot-glass ramekins.
2. In a large bowl, cream together the shortening and brown and granulated sugars. Add the egg yolk and vanilla extract, and mix well. Gradually add the flour and salt, and mix until completely combined. Add the mini chocolate chips, and mix together until evenly distributed. The dough should be a little crumbly at this point.
3. Form the cookie shots inside the moulds, making the walls of the cookie shot about 6mm thick. Place in the fridge for 30 minutes before baking.
4. Bake for 20 minutes or until the
cookies just start to brown. Remove from the oven, and let cool completely. (Should they start to crumble as soon as you take them out the mould, you might need to remove from the moulds and then place back in to cool first.)
5. Melt chocolate candy melts, and then
pour the melted chocolate into the well of each cookie. Let it sit for a minute, and then pour the excess chocolate back into the pan. Place the cookie shots in the fridge until the chocolate has set.
6. Mix together milk and favouring, and
serve inside each cookie shot.
100
4. Fry the flapjacks, until it starts to set
If you would like you can also pour in one
and the underside is a light brown. Turn
of your favourite milkshake flavours and
and fry the other side until light brown.
enjoy!
Add more cooking oil or butter when frying each batch.
Easiest Flapjack Stack Ever!! EASY | MAKES 2-4 Prep Time: 35 MINS Cooking Time: 10 MINS
Ingredients 250 g SNOWFLAKE FLAPJACK MIX 1 extra large egg 10 ml cooking oil 250 ml milk Cooking oil or butter for frying Chocolate for melting
1. Place premix into a mixing bowl. Lightly beat egg, oil and milk. Add to the premix and mix with a whisk until a smooth batter with no lumps is formed. Batter should be thick.
2. Let mixture sit for at least ½ an hour before use. Can also sit overnight. Add more milk if necessary.
3. Heat cooking oil or butter in a frying pan and pour or spoon batter in, about 30ml scoop full.
To serve
1. Stack three flapjacks of similar size,
hold together with a skewer.
2. Melt some chocolate and pour over the flapjack stacks. Sprinkle with white chocolate flakes and crushed walnuts.
junior
Optional
ginja advertorial
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Wheelchair friendly and smoking rooms are available on request. The hotel offers all the usual comforts and amenities such as air conditioned rooms, satellite television, a comfortable work space and free wireless internet connectivity. Guests have access to the hotel’s gym, as well as a lovely garden with lawns and shady trees. Guests can enjoy the African sunshine while relaxing on sun loungers around the outdoor pool. Whether you are in Johannesburg for a conference, convention, exhibition or shopping spree, take the stress out of travel planning with Garden Court Sandton City – an ideally situated hotel that understands your needs.
102
The metro chic styling and modern technology make this 444 room hotel an ideal destination.
DRESSED
for success
104
The Chef uniform is steeped in tradition dating back to the mid 19th century, however, today the styling and fabric selection, of the garments, is based on comfort and durability.
great haste. Because these buttons are often destroyed in the industrial laundries, they have now been replaced by plastic removable studs. While the Executive chefs prefer to wear black
The traditional chef's uniform (or chef's whites)
trousers, general usage usually favours the small
includes a toque, white double-breasted jacket,
checked pattern that is effective in disguising
check pants, apron and necktie.
the inevitable stains, which develop while working. Lightweight cotton or mixed synthetics
The toque is a traditional chef's hat and the
are used, sometimes with a Teflon coating. They
different heights may indicate rank within a
are lightweight and loose to keep the chef cool,
kitchen, while the number of folds are said to
allow easy movement, and protect from burns.
represent the many different ways a chef knows
Tight fitting pants, would be very dangerous in
how to cook an egg.
the case of a hot oil spill, as the fabric would hold the heat against the skin.
Much of the chef's uniform has developed out of necessity.
The Apron is worn over the jacket and around the midsection to protect the uniform as well
The white chef’s coat is the signature of the traditional uniform and is all about Pride. With the Chef’s uniform, there is more at stake than just keeping the uniform clean and white. A dignified look helps generate a feeling of professionalism. The significance of the double breasted styling, is not only a convenient way to reverse the front panel when the garment becomes soiled, it also acts as an insulation from the heat generated by the burners. Even the knotted cloth buttons were fashioned for a reason-Cloth will withstand the frequent washings and abuse buttons often endure from contact with pots, pans and other heavy equipment. In addition, should a garment catch alight, the garments could be removed with
105
as the Chef. Chefs usually wear a long white
Chef Works has evolved, and has become a
apron that is folded over on top and tied
market leader, within this culinary industry
in the front covering the knees. The apron
as we recognise the passion and energy
is additional protection against heat and
required to be a leading Chef. Not only do we
burns. Tying the apron in front allows it to be
supply functional garments, but also create
removed more quickly.
the inspiration required in this dynamic innovative environment.
The Necktie serves the same dignified purpose to a uniform as a tie does to a
We understand the need to enhance your
business suit, and is tied in the same way.
Brand while keeping cognizance of the need
Originally, when kitchens were unbearably
for value and durability.
hot, the necktie caught and absorbed facial perspiration. Today neckerchiefs
Attention to quality fabrications, inspired
are primarily worn for aesthetic purposes,
styling and attention to detail is our forte’.
to give our uniforms a more finished look.
Quality is of prime importance so we place
Modern kitchens are better ventilated and
enormous emphasis on the stitching detail
there is less need for the necktie, but it is still
and fabric suitability. While cotton is the
worn out of a sense of tradition.
optimal choice for comfort, the blending of fibres has become critical in order to give
Internationally, the culinary industry has
longevity to the life of the garments. The
changed dramatically and the mystique has
culinary attire is subjected to severe laundry
been dispelled, by the “New Age� eateries.
conditions and these chemicals break down
Many young people have entered the
the structure of the cotton fibres.
arena and have broken with tradition by opening up the kitchen space to become
In order to maintain our quality, we select
part of the vibe generated within the entire
the best quality long staple cotton produced
establishment, thus creating a cohesive
in the World, and oversee the spinning,
integration with the serving staff. Eating
weaving and finishing of all fabrics. We
out is no longer just about the food but the
ensure that the Chef Works range of
entire experience.
products is creative, inspired and most importantly, comfortable.
Chef attire has evolved to express this
106
modern movement and we now see colours
We are proud to say that our dedication and
and imaginative designs, which all form part
passion are what makes Chef Works a leader
of the marketing, and desire to portray the
in the industry, thus dressing the top Chefs
image of the Restaurant Brand.
around the World!
“ Attention to quality fabrications, inspired styling and attention to detail is our forte.
We understand the kitchen working
Chef Works is sold on all continents of
environment, and realise that not only does
the World and manufactured in 14
a Chef require prestige, but total comfort,
countries. We have a dedicated team
and protection, during the long hot working
of garment technicians who are
hours.
committed to producing quality garments at all times.
All manufacturers, of the Chef Works brand, are scrutinised and audited to ensure that
Chef Works, which originated in South
the International quality standards are
Africa, can be worn, by top Chefs around
achieved and maintained.
the Globe, with absolute Pride.
107
Chef Desmond Davies, the executive sous chef at the Durban International Covention Centre, answers some of our readers' kitchen queries. How do I substitute fresh herbs with dried? If you’re making a recipe that calls for fresh and you’d like to use dried — or vice versa — it’s no problem. Dried herbs have a concentrated flavour
Desmond Davies
ask a chef which can lean toward being bitter so use less
than you would fresh herbs (and vice versa) Fresh herbs tend to have a more delicate flavour than dried, so I tend to use more of it. My general rule of thumb is to use 1 ½ times the amount of fresh as I would dry i.e. if a recipe calls for 1 teaspoon of dried thyme, start with 1 ½ teaspoons of fresh thyme. Remember, you can always add more, but you can’t take it away once it’s in there! When cooking for large crowds, which dishes would you avoid? And why? There are a growing number of consumers with food allergies. Food allergies affect children and adults of all demographic groups. The Big 8 Foods account for 90% of all reactions are milk, eggs, peanuts, tree nuts, soy, wheat, fish and shellfish. Even trace amounts of a food allergen can cause a reaction so I avoid using any of these items to ensure that there are no adverse effects.
managing stress is to have a well-trained,
One of life’s great pleasures is uncovering
reliable crew. Knowing that your crew have both
roast pork on the dinner table and watching
the ability and professionalism to reproduce
the crackling being pinched off the plate with a
your menu according to the recipe, standards
resounding crunch from eager mouths…
and presentation which you have established
It can be tough getting that crispy CRACKLING
goes a long ways to reducing a chef’s stress.
every time! However I have a fool proof method
If, after initial training and practice, staff do not
for the perfect crackling!
prepare food according to the standards set,
Dry the skin of the pork roast
they should be re-trained. If this too fails then
Score the skin - make sure your scores run deep
the necessary disciplinary procedures should
- right the way through the skin.
be taken. There is nothing more stressful for
Drizzle a couple of tablespoons of oil and rub in
a crew than a handful of staff who are not
to the skin.
committed and passionate about what they
Now the secret that mum never told you
do and leave room for service lapses. It is best
because salt was supposed to be bad for
to identify the non-players as soon as possible
you …….
and root them out. In the hospitality industry
Massage salt into the skin.
there are good, bad, and often horrendous
Rest for an hour or two (better yet do it in the
days. We’ve all experienced a shift after which
morning and rest all day!).
we simply wanted to go home, crawl under a
Pre heat oven to 180˚, then place roast in oven
rock, and @#%$! die. Everyone, especially chefs,
and roast for 1 hour/kg.
need a way to unwind outside of work and
Your roast is ready when the thermometer
although alcohol may help us unwind, it is not a
shows 71˚ internal temp, or the pricked pork
legitimate pastime! Scheduling time to relax is
juices run clear.
just as important as scheduling time to do your
For super crispy, remove roast from oven and
inventory. There has to be a definable balance.
remove crackling from the roast (have paper
For me, mountain biking and/or getting out in to
towels handy).
the bush with the family helps just to switch off
Return crackling to tray and raise temp to 220˚
….. no cell phone no laptop!
food
How do I get crispy pork crackling every time?
for 10 minutes. Cover the meat while it is resting - it is a good way for the meat to let the juices settle and will
Do you have a question that you have always
make carving easier.
wanted to ask a chef? In every issue you can look forward to having your questions,
How do you cope with the stress of a busy
flops and wives' tale mysteries, answered by
kitchen and still get your plated dishes out
a professional Chef. Send your question to
on time?
press@ginjamedia.com and you could win if it
The single most important ingredient for
is published.
109
Chef Desmond Davies shares some of his recipes. Baked Vanilla Cheesecake,
with a sweet dough base accompanied by a chilli fruit salsa
¼ fresh chilli 5 strawberries 2 sprigs of mint 1 fresh mango 1 passion fruit 1 tsp sugar 1 punnet blueberries 1 punnet raspberries
EASY | serves 6-8 Prep Time: 35 MINS
Biscuit Base
Cooking Time: 180 MINS
Mix the icing sugar, flour and salt,
Ingredients
and crumb in the butter and yolks with your fingertips until the ingredients
Biscuit Base
are combined to form a soft dough.
125 g flour
Place into the base of a baking tin
100 g butter
and bake at 170 ºC for 10–15 minutes.
50 g icing sugar Pinch of salt
Baked Cheesecake
1 egg yolk
Using an electric mixer beat together
Baked Cheesecake
the cream cheese, flour, milk, sugar, and
500 g cream cheese
zest together until combined then add
1 Tbsp milk
the eggs one at a time until combined,
175 g caster sugar
finally add the vanilla essence. Add the
20 g cake flour
mix to the baked sweet dough base and
½ orange zest
bake at 100°C for 30– 45 minutes, must
½ lemon zest
be firm to the touch..
2 whole eggs
110
1 egg yolk
Fruit Salsa
1 vanilla pod split length ways
Chop the ingredients as desired, and
Fruit Salsa
combine to make a salsa. Add the sugar
1 pomegranate
just before serving.
side down. Once you can see that the fish
3. Pour the contents of the blender
has cooked halfway up the side of the
through a fine mesh strainer into a bowl,
fillet, flip it over (about 2-3 minutes).
to remove any solids - this creates a
2. At this point, add in your butter
super light and fluffy puree. *tip: use a
puree
and thyme - baste the fish with a
ladle to help force the puree through
spoon. When you see the fish is almost
the strainer!
completely done cooking (about 2-3
4. When you’re ready to serve the
EASY | serves 2
minutes), add in your lemon juice and
puree - just re-heat in a small saucepan.
Prep Time: 10 MINS
cook another 10 seconds.. Remove the
Cooking Time: 20 MINS
fish from the pan and serve with some
Garnish with some fresh micro herbs
of the sauce ladled over it.
and baby beetroot sprouts.
Ingredients Seared Dusky Kob
Basil Pea Puree
2 Dusky Kob (cut into 4 equal fillets
1. Heat up a teaspoon of Olive Oil in a
(leave skin on))
medium sized sauté pan. Add in your
Salt
onions and cook for about 5 minutes
1 Tbsp butter
over a medium heat. Add in your garlic
2 sprig thyme
and peas, and cook about 2-3 minutes
1 Tbsp lemon juice (fresh)
stirring frequently so as not to burn the
Basil Pea Puree
garlic. Remove from the heat and pour
½ cup onion (sliced thin)
food
Lemon – Thyme seared Dusky Kob with basil pea
the contents into a blender.
1 garlic clove (chopped roughly)
2. Add into the blender your basil,
1 ¼ cups frozen peas (thawed)
parsley, and cream. Process for about 45
10 parsley leaves
seconds or until extremely smooth. Taste
3 basil leaves
and season with salt - process again.
3 Tbsp cream Salt SEARED DUSKY KOB
1. Heat up a large heavy-bottomed skillet over a high heat. *Don’t use a nonstick pan* - Add in enough canola oil to lightly coat the bottom of the pan. Once smoking hot, season your fish with salt on both sides , and place in the pan, skin
111
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The Beauty Blast Reclaim your youthful glow with this delicious blend. 2 handfuls swiss chard ½ cup pineapple ½ cup strawberries 1 tbs goji berries 12 cashews Fill to the max line with spring water. Extract and enjoy!!
112
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OUT and about A look at the fabulous foodie events not to be missed
Klein Karoo Klassique
114
Taste of Joburg
13-16 AUGUST, OUDTSHOORN,
The Michael Fridjhon Wine Experience 2015
WESTERN CAPE
29-30 AUGUST, HYATT REGENCY
JOHANNESBURG, GAUTENG
Oudtshoorn is rolling out the red
HOTEL, ROSEBANK, GAUTENG
Joburg’s top restaurants will fashion
carpet for the sixth edition of Klein
This annual sought-after event has three
special menus designed to reflect their
Karoo Klassique. With world class
sessions, with a Benchmark Tasting, a
philosophy and showcase premium in-
classical music, delectable cuisine, blue
Gala Dinner, and the legendary Cham-
gredients. With a wide range of boutique
ribbon wines and local art. Visitors will
pagne Brunch. Each year sees a new
exhibitors, artisan producers, premium
once again have the opportunity to
theme and an extraordinary line-up of
brands and award-winning wineries.
taste the local specialities from the
highly sought-after wines matched with
Something to whet the tastebuds of even
Little Karoo. Visit www.klassique.co.za
menus fine-tuned over months. Visit
the most discerning foodies. Visit www.
for more info.
www.outsorceress.co.za for more info.
tasteofjoburg.com for more info.
24-27 SEPTEMBER, MONTECASINO,
SA on Tap Craft Beer Festival
Soweto Wine & Lifestyle Festival Gariep Arts Festival
1 AUGUST, DURBAN AMPHITHEATRE,
4-6 SEPTEMBER, WALTER SISULU
27-30 AUGUST, OPPENHEIMER
DURBAN, KWAZULU-NATAL
SQUARE OF DEDICATION, SOWETO,
GARDENS, KIMBERLEY, NORTHERN
Featuring over 100 of SA's finest hand
GAUTENG
CAPE
crafted brews, ciders, whiskeys and
Showcasing South Africa’s finest wines
This event showcases products like All
wines from our nations best brewers.
to the trendsetters from across the
genres of art, visual and performing,
Get ready to make every sip a special
globe, this festival has transformed the
is part of this patchwork landscape.
occasion. Whether you are a home
shape of the wine industry over the past
Intriguing-tasty food stalls and the art
brewer keen to learn more or just
decade, and is set to charter new
market adorn the view with extravagant
appreciate the truly hand crafted
territory with the Freedom of Wine
colours. Music fills the air and the atmo-
goodness - this is where you need to be.
celebration. Visit www.sowetowine
sphere is festive in the park. Visit www.
Visit www.saontap.co.za for more info.
festival.co.za for more info.
gariepfees.co.za for more info.
The Mercury Wine Week
Garlic Festival
27-29 AUGUST, SUNCOAST CASINO,
Thousand Sensations Crafted Beer & Food Festival
DURBAN, KWAZULU-NATAL
18-19 SEPTEMBER, WILDERNESS
STELLENBOSCH, WESTERN CAPE
This gathering of South Africa’s wine
HOTEL, WILDERNESS, WESTERN CAPE
Believed to ward off cancer, colds and
producers, estates, wine connoisseurs
Crafted beer is putting back the passion
vampires, this potent little vegetable has
and young wine lovers, brings together
into beer drinking and a festival is a great
been used medicinally for thousands of
120 wine exhibitors under one roof and
opportunity to sample a variety of SA's
years since Greek and Roman times. Join
is a highlight in the KZN wine calendar.
finest. Experience the passion and the
fellow garlic lovers for the inaugural Garlic
A new addition this year is a dedicated
love that goes into cultivating artisanal
Festival at the Stellenbosch Fresh Goods
tastings during each evening, hosted
beers, with sumptuous food on offer.
Market. Indulge in all things garlic, from oils
by various estates on show. Visit www.
For more info contact Alewijn 082 457
and sausages to breads, even ice cream.
mercurywineweek.co.za for more info.
5675.
Visit www.slowmarket.co.za for more info.
(date) SEPTEMBER, SLOW MARKET,
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY Johan Wilke
Haddock is a popular white fish, similar in many ways to cod, with a firm flesh, delicate flavour and succulent texture. Reaching sizes up to 1.1m, haddock is fished for yearround. Some of the methods used are Danish seine nets, trawlers, long lines and fishing nets.
haddock flan
flake the fish into tiny pieces, removing
serves 6
job done quite beautifully, I find.
Ingredients 500 g smoked haddock 250 ml milk 500 g cream cheese 4 eggs 1 Tbsp corn flour a generous handful of parsley, well chopped 2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped White pepper to taste
1. Preheat the oven to 180 ยบ C. 2. Soak the haddock in the milk for about 3 hours.
3. Use a medium cooking pot and bring
the bones. Using your fingers gets the
5. Whip the cheese and eggs together until very light and fluffy.
6. Mix the corn flour with 2 tablespoons of the now-cooled leftover milk and fold it directly into the egg mixture.
7. Add the fish, parsley, shallots and pepper and fold it all together to create a lovely, creamy filling. Taste the filling and season lightly if necessary.
8. Butter a flan dish, pile the filling in the dish, smooth it off with the back of a fork and bake the flan for about an hour, or until a skewer comes out clean. Cool for a few minutes and serve with a crisp green salad.
the milk and haddock to the boil for about 5 minutes, remove from the heat
Recipe by Marlene Van der Westhuizen,
and let it cool slightly.
from her cookbook 'Secrets of a French
4. Drain the fish, retaining the milk, and
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Cooking Class' (see review on page 94).
food G R EEN - B EST CH O ICE Anchovy Calamari (Squid) Horse Mackerel/ Maasbanker (midwater trawl) Hottentot (line caught) Hake (MSC Cert) Elf (Outside KZN)
guide For more information please go to www.wwfsassi.co.za or SMS the name of the fish to 079 499 8795, to find out if your fish is on the Green list. Content courtesy of
Kob (farmed in SA on land) Monk Mussels Oysters Rainbow Trout Sardines (South Africa) Snoek (South Africa)
Tuna (pole caught ONLY) Yellowtail Dorado Santer (Line Fishery) Atlantic Herring (MSC Cert) Trout, Rainbow (Farmed in raceways or ponds)
The most sustainable choice from the healthiest and most well managed populations. These species can handle current fishing pressure, or are farmed in a manner that does not harm the environment.
O R ANGE - THINK T W ICE Abalone (farmed) African Sharptooth Catfish (farmed) Carpenter (line caught) East Coastz Spiny Lobster Geelbek/Cape Salmon (line caught) Hake (SA longline)
Kingklip Kob (farmed at sea or line caught) Ling (New Zealand Kingklip) Panga (line caught) Pangasius/Basa (farmed) Prawns Red Roman
Sole (East Coast) Tuna (local longline) West Coast Rock Lobster White Stumpnose (line caught) Yellowtail (locally farmed) Harders (beach Seine) Rockcod, Catface (linefishery) Atlantic Salomon (farmed)
Exercise caution when choosing these, as they are either depleting as a result of overfishing and are unable to sustain the current pressure, or fishing/farming methods may be causing harm to the environment.
Cape Town Tourism's website.
R ED - D O N ’ T B U Y Always look for the MSC ecolabelled products, such as the South African offshore trawled Hake, for the best choice in wild capture products
Black Musselcracker/ Poekskop Dagteraad Kob (trawl caught) Red Stumpnose/ Miss lucy Sharks (trawl caught) Skates and Rays
NO SALE SPECIES
Tuna (imported longline) Baardman/Belman Blacktail/Dassie Brindle Bass Bronze Bream Cape Stumpnose Galjoen Garrick King Fish Knife Jaw
Natal Stumpnose Natal Wrasse Potato Bass Red Steenbras River Snapper Seventy - four Spotted Grunter West Coast Steenbras White Musselcracker White Steenbras
Don’t buy these species. They are either from unsustainable populations, due to collapse and/or extreme environmental concerns and/or lack of management, or are illegal to buy or sell in South Africa.
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ginja CHEAT SHEET - part 7 EE
FF O C R U O KNOW Y
118
espresso
LATTE MACCHIATO
CARAMEL MACCHIATO
FLAT WHITE
Cappuccino
DOPPIO
IRISH COFFEE
AMERICANO
CAFE LATTE
the haas collective
Doubleshot Coffee & Tea
c ffee hotspots The GINJA selection of coffee hotspots across South Africa.
Eastern Cape Urban Espress Coffee Co. Address: 25 6th Ave, Port Elizabeth Tel No: 041 581 3390 www.urbanespress.co.za Como Caffe Address: 86 Heugh Road, Walmer, Port Elizabeth Tel No: 041 581 2798 Lavender Blue Market Address: Old Gonubie Road, East London Tel No: 043 732 1172 Mi Coffee
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Address: 152 Main Rd, Walmer, Port Elizabeth Tel No: 071 7791046 Infood Coffee Society Address: 10 Da Gama Rd, Jeffreys Bay Tel No: 042 293 3651 www.infood.co.za Burksies Address: Duckpond Centre, Campbell Street, Port Alfred Tel No: 046 624 4727
Gauteng AfricaBlack Espresso Bar Address: Northland's Shopping Centre,
Northriding, Johannesburg Tel No: 11 462 2443 www.stilcoffee.com Doubleshot Coffee & Tea Address: Braamfontein, Johannesburg Tel No: 011 100 5241 www.doubleshot.co.za Urban Grind Roasters Address: 6th Street, Parkhurst Tel No: 082 8920675 Father Coffee Address: 73 Juta Street, Braamfontein, Johannesburg Tel No: 082 513 4258/ 082 411 1431 www.fathercoffee.co.za
Kwazulu-natal Factory Café Address: 369 Magwaza Maphalala St, Durban Tel No: 031 205 3283 www.factorycafe.co.za Bean Green Address: 147 Helen Joseph Rd, Durban Tel No: 031 201 8122 www.beangreen.co.za Stratta Café Address: 50 Old Main Road, Hillcrest Tel No: 031 765 8862 www.stretta.co.za Lineage Coffee Address: Watercrest Mall, Hillcrest
www.lineagecoffee.com
WEstern cape THE HAAS COLLECTIVE Address: 19 Buitenkant Street, Cape Town Tel No: 021 461 1812 www.haascollective.com Double Shot Address: Checkers Centre, Main Street, Plettenberg Bay Tel No: 044 533 0842 www.doubleshotplett.co.za Caloroso Café Address: 103 Meade Street, George Tel No: 044 874 0482 www.calorosocoffee.co.za Polvo Café Address: 50 Main Rd, Knysna www.polvo.co.za mischu - The Coffee Showroom Address: 85 Regent Road, Sea Point, Cape Town Tel No: 072 563 8090 www.mischu.co.za Hard Pressed Café Address: 1 Bree Street, City Centre, Cape Town www.hardpressed.co.za Truth Coffee Roasting Address: 36 Buitenkant St, Cape Town Tel No: :021 200 0440 www.truthcoffee.com
Directory AMC COOKWARE www.amcsa.co.za
CREATION WINES www.creationwines.co.za
MAURITIUS www.tourism-mauritius.mu
SNOWFLAKE www.snowflake.co.za
AIR MAURITIUS www.airmauritius.com
DE'LONGHI www.delonghi.com/en-za
MIELE SOUTH AFRICA www.miele.co.za
SOUTHERN SUN WATERFRONT www.tsogosunhotels.com
ARAMEX www.aramex.co.za
DURBANVILLE HILLS www.durbanvillehills.co.za
MOTHERLAND COFFEE www.motherlandcoffee.com
BEAN THERE www.beanthere.co.za
ELBA www.elba.co.za
NATURES OWN naturesown.co.za
THE OYSTER BOX HOTEL www.oysterboxhotel.com THIRST www.thirst.za.com
BELLA HOUSEWARES www.bellahousewares.com
FRANCOIS FERREIRA ACADEMY www.francoisferreira.com
NUTRIBULLET www.nutribullet.co.za
BEVERLY HILLS HOTEL www.tsogosunhotels.com
GARDEN COURT SANDTON CITY www.tsogosunhotels.com
PENGUIN BOOKS www.penguinbooks.co.za
CALITZDORP FESTIVAL www.portwinefestival.co.za
HANDPRESSO www.handpresso.co.za
PHILIPS SOUTH AFRICA www.philips.co.za
CARESSE MARINE www.wildekrans.com
HULETTS www.hulettssugar.co.za
PRESTIGE HOUSEWARES www.prestigehousewares.co.za
CHALMAR BEEF www.chalmarbeef.co.za
ITALIAN LIFESTYLE www.italianlifestyle.co.za
RANDOM HOUSE STRUIK www.randomstruik.co.za
CHECKERS www.checkers.co.za
LANZERAC WINE ESTATE www.lanzeracwines.co.za
RED BAND BARISTA ACADEMY www.levafoundation.org
CHEFWORKS www.gross.co.za
LINEAGE COFFEE www.lineagecoffee.com
RYO COFFEE www.ryocoffee.co.za
CONRAD PEZULA HOTEL conradhotels3.hilton.com
LOURENSFORD WINE ESTATE www.lourensford.co.za
SANI PASS HOTEL www.sanipasshotel.co.za
DESMOND DAVIES icc.co.za
MADE IN SPAIN www.madeinspain.co.za
SHAUN THE COFFEE GUY Shaunthecoffeeguy.blogspot.com
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UNILEVER FOOD SOLUTIONS www.ufs.com WALLCOVERINGS INC www.wallcoverings.co.za WILLOW CREEK www.willowcreek.co.za WORLD LEISURE HOLIDAYS www.wlh.co.za WWF SASSI www.wwfsassi.co.za
Recipe index
B
Chocolate pudding 70
Baked vanilla cheesecake with a sweet
Chocolate salami 71
dough base accompanied by a chilli
Coffee and caper risotto 17
fruit salsa 110
Coffee and chocolate layered cake topped
Bananas in coffee syrup 19
with meringues 06
Beauty blast smoothie 112
Coffee and chocolate mousse 86 Coffee rubbed rib-eye roast 16
C
F
Chocolate and orange cake 96
Flapjack stack 101
Chocolate and pistachio pancake stack 66 Chocolate brownies 87
H Haddock flan 116
L Lamb coffee and date tagine 18 Lemon-thyme seared dusky kob with basil pea puree 111
M Milk and cookie shots 99
N No bake tartlets with chocolate ganache 72
O Orange cheesecake with gooseberries 50
R Rooibos smoked oyster with naartjie agar agar 47
124