Global Living issue 6 | April/may 2013
Living Luxuriously, Worldwide
magazine
one year anniversary issue
Oslo, Norway
The Happiest City in the World's Richest Country
Driving abroad
An Expat's Guide to Learning the Rules of the Road
altruistic expats: Part II
Karl Deringer | Barbara Rogoski
Las Cruces & Mesilla New mexico
Chile Peppers, Sand Dunes and Authentic Dining
Beautiful Bali
An Exploration of the Indonesian Island's Most Exclusive Hotels and Resorts
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Global*Within Living Magazine Europe
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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
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alison cavatore
pring is here! Washington, D.C. is slowly but surely thawing out and tourists from around the world are flocking to experience the Cherry Blossom Festival (March 20 – April 14) in the nation’s capital. Personally, it will be my first spring in the area, and the excitement of new seasonal beginnings ties in quite well with this issue – our one-year anniversary issue! At Global Living, milestones excite us, and this issue is a particularly special one because it marks one year from when our first issue launched. We’re so pleased to present you with our sixth issue and to thank you for being with us for the journey so far! The past year has been an extraordinary experience and we want to take this moment to thank our contributors and readers for making it all possible. We look forward to growing and expanding our reach so that no matter where you are in the world, you are assured of a resource where you can feel connected to those living equally exciting global lives. There will be plenty more to come from Global Living as we prepare for our second year, and we look forward to having you with us along the way. But before we get ahead of ourselves, we want to take a moment to share with you
Cherry Blossom Festival (March 20 - April 14) Washington, D.C. PHOTOGRAPH BY AJDA BERRYMAN
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So many options at Baked and Wired in Georgetown. (Twitter: @bakedandwiredDC) Global Living Magazine
Alison Cavatore Founder, CEO & Editor-in-Chief, Global Living Magazine
Editor's Social Cor
ner
Join us on Twitter @GlobalLivingMag or @AlisonCavatore
some highlights from this issue. Our writers once again outdid themselves and traveled far and wide in order to share some of the world’s most beautiful destinations with you. Roy Stevenson and photographer Linda Popovich traveled to Bali (p.14) to explore the area’s luxury resorts while, across the Pacific Ocean, Marla Cimini was in New Mexico (p. 29) putting her taste buds to the test with a tour of Las Cruces’ Chile Pepper Institute. This issue will also take you on a journey through the Canadian Rockies (p. 22), Houston, Texas (p. 32), and Oslo, Norway (p. 35), among other spectacular locations. An important component of any travel plan is, of course, selecting a great hotel, so this issue features a number of in-depth Hotel Reviews (p. 9), including The Pierre in New York, and Coworth Park near London. In addition, Anne O’Connell provides us with the second installment of her series on Expats Giving Back (p. 48) in which she profiles two altruistic expats from Africa and Europe. Aisha Ashraf explores a more humorous side of expat life in Driving Abroad (p. 46), while Jo Parfitt has once again compiled a fantastic lineup of expat-related books, this time focusing on Working Abroad (p. 56). We’re so grateful for the support you’ve shown us over the past year and we look forward to continuing our journey with you. In the meantime, enjoy this issue and KEEP TRAVELING!
INSIDER ACCESS: Alison's D.C. moments captured on Instagram.
Foie gras poutine and more at Green Pig Bistro in Arlington, VA. (Twitter: @GreenPigVA)
Blue skies and ice skating at Georgetown Waterfront.
Spanish tapas by José Andrés at Jaleo in Washington, D.C. (Twitter: @jaleotapasbar)
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INSIDE GLOBAL LIVING contents
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Facebook.com/GlobalLivingMagazine Twitter.com/GlobalLivingMag Pinterest.com/GlobalLivingMag GlobalLivingMagazine.com Living Luxuriously, Worldwide
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April/May 2013 4 Letter from the Editor Alison Cavatore
7 Contributors
Meet our talented team from around the world.
TRAVEL
9 luxury hotel reviews
Reviews of some of the world's most luxurious hotels and resorts.
10 Coworth Park hotel 14 bali resorts 20 intercontinental danang sun peninsula resort 22 Hideouts in the Canadian rockies 26 the pierre hotel 29 las cruces & mesilla, new mexico
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Chile pepers, sand dunes and an authentic dining experience in New Mexico.
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32 houston, texas
Dance Theatre of Harlem Exhibition.
35 oslo, norway
A journey through the world's richest city in the world's happiest country.
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GLOBAL STYLE
40 jennifer fisher jewelry
Jetsetter fashion and accessories from top global brands.
EXPATRIATE LIFESTYLE 46 driving abroad
A humorous tale of re-learning to drive in a foreign country.
48 expats giving back
Africa & Europe: Part Two of a three-part series on altruistic expatriates.
46 Book reviews: Country guides
Jo Parfitt's ongoing column recommending the best books for expats.
On the Cover:
LUXURY RESORTS BALI - BY ROY STEVENSON Image by Linda Popovich
GLOBAL CONTRIBUTORS Meet our talented team
Carolyn Pearson
Carolyn Pearson is a U.K.-based
Marla Cimini
As a journalist with a
images provided by each contributor
passion for travel, music and culinary adventures, Marla has written for many national and regional publications, on topics ranging from wine trails in Argentina to African-American-owned wineries in Napa Valley. Marla is the author and co-editor of the book, A Century of Hospitality: 1910 – 2010 (McNeill publishing), which focuses on the history of the hotel industry. Many of her articles are featured in Lodging magazine, where she covers trends in tourism. Her work has also appeared in The Courier Post; USA Today online; Uptown; and The Philadelphia Business Journal – among others. When not globetrotting (or searching for the perfect wine to complement chocolatecovered pretzels), she can be found rocking out with her musician husband, Chris, at their home in New Jersey. Visit Marla’s website at www. marlacimini.com and follow her on Twitter at: @MarlaCimini.
Additional words and photos credited where applicable. Disclaimer: The views expressed by our contributors do not necessarily reflect the views of Global Living Magazine, or its management or owners. Global Living has not verified the accuracy or completeness of the content of the submission but has relied on the warranty of the creator as to these factors. Please address any comments directly to the creator. No part of this publication may be reproduced or copied by any method without the written permission from the publishing company. Global Media Partners LLC, and all those associated with this publication assume no financial responsibility for any misinformation or typographical errors in advertisements and make no claims as to their promises or guarantees, products or services.
freelance writer and industry expert on business travel for women. She is also CEO and founder of www.maiden-voyage.com, an awardwinning global network designed to make business travel both safe and social for professional women. Carolyn has a background in technology, primarily focused on both travel and media. Her work has taken her throughout Europe, the U.S. and India, and she has lived and worked in both the Netherlands and Australia. As a result, Carolyn speaks fluent Dutch and also some French. Contact her via email at Carolyn@maidenvoyage.org or follow her on Twitter at: @maiden_voyage.
Roy Stevenson
Jo Parfitt
Jo Parfitt has published 26 nonfiction books, an anthology of poetry called A Moving Landscape, and a novel called Sunshine Soup. She is a journalist, teacher, editor and publisher who also mentors others who want to write and publish books and articles. Jo has lived in Dubai, Oman and Norway, and is now in the Netherlands. Living and working overseas has made her the mentor and publisher of choice for countless expat writers at Summertime Publishing. All of her expat titles can be seen at: www.expatbookshop.com. Pick up a free report on ‘How to Write Your Life Story – the Inside Secrets’ at: www.joparfitt.com/freereport. Jo also leads weeklong residential writing courses in Tuscany on how to write life stories. More information can be found at: www.watermill.net.
Linda Popovich
Linda Popovich is a freelance photographer based in Seattle, Washington. Living and working in Asia and Europe for several years provided ongoing inspiration for her love of photography and travel. In 2009, after more than 25 years in the corporate world, she decided to change course and pursue her passions of photography and art full-time. Her photographs have been published in a variety of publications in the U.S. and internationally. In addition to travel photography, Linda also enjoys photographing animals, and just about anything that keeps her outdoors.
BE A PART OF GLOBAL LIVING MAGAZINE If you are interested in contributing to Global Living, please contact our Editor-in-Chief, Alison Cavatore, at: Alison@GlobalLivingMagazine.com.
Roy Stevenson is a professional freelance travel writer and photographer based in Seattle, Washington. With more than 750 articles published in 170 regional, national and international magazines, newspapers, trade journals, and in-flight and online travel magazines, Roy is one of the most prolific travel writers in the U.S.A. To view more of Roy Stevenson’s travel articles, go to www.Roy-Stevenson.com.
Apple Gidley
Apple Gidley, a freelance writer and author of Expat Life Slice by Slice has traveled extensively and is a seasoned expatriate, having started her nomadic life at a month old in West Africa. She has lived and worked in Nigeria, England, Malaysia, Singapore, Australia, Papua New Guinea, The Netherlands, Trinidad and Tobago, Thailand, Scotland, Equatorial Guinea and the USA. Apple currently lives in Houston, Texas. Read her blog at www.my.telegraph. co.uk/applegidley or visit her website at www.expatapple.com.
We are always looking for experienced, well-traveled writers and photographers and we want to hear from you, our readers. Contact us now about opportunities and visit us online at GlobalLivingMagazine.com.
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Anne O'Connell
Anisha Shah is a BBC born-andraised broadcast journalist. Her career highlight is TV News Reporting on the London 2012 Olympic Games. An incessant traveler, Anisha has written for leading international publications from Asia to the Channel Islands. Her niche is luxury and emerging destinations and conflict zones, stemming from her childhood dream of becoming a war reporter. This has seen her choose unusual destinations: Bahrain, Kuwait, Beirut and Colombo. Alongside Jordan, Mustique, Brazil, Peru, Galapagos and Switzerland, these have been her favorites. The year 2013 sees inspirational and unique travels through Myanmar, Ethiopia, Central America, Norway, New York, Portugal and the Seychelles… for starters. Having recently decided to document her realtime travels, Anisha is editor of ‘A Niche World' at www.ani-shah.com where she writes frankly about her immersive travels. You can follow her on Twitter @anishahbbc or Facebook at ‘A Niche World’.
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Global Living Magazine
Aisha Ashraf Carolyne KauserAbbott
With her camera and laptop nearby, Carolyne is living proof that there is no such thing as a single career anymore. She began her working life as an equity stock trader and then moved to commercial real estate and project management. Now, she is dabbling in the world of freelance writing, blogging and social media. In 2010, Carolyne convinced her husband and Labrador that a few months in France would be fun; they stayed for thirteen. Currently, they split their time between southern France and Canmore in the Canadian Rockies. At home or on the road, she writes a food and travel blog, Ginger and Nutmeg (www. gingerandnutmeg.com), and ‘Nutmeg’ on Twitter @gingerandnutmeg. She also recently launched a travel app called Edible Heritage (www. edibleheritage.com).
Aisha Isabel Ashraf is a freelance writer who’s made the expatriate leap of faith twice – first as a lifestyle choice, and now as the trailing spouse of a civil engineer in a global consultancy. Currently based in Canada with her husband and children, she’s crossed geographical, cultural and religious borders and gives a candid account of the journey on her award-winning blog, Expatlog.com. Her fascination for travel and psychology drives her work today. Her series of posts entitled ‘Breaking the Code of Silence’, about stigma and mental illness, led to her participation in a research study for Canada’s Centre for Addiction and Mental Health. She also writes for various U.K. newspapers, travel and lifestyle publications, and is a columnist for Expat Focus, an established online expat resource. Follow her on Twitter at: @AishaAshraf1.
Shirley Agudo
Assistant Editor Shirley Agudo is an American author, editor and photographer based in the Netherlands. She is the author/photographer of five books: Bicycle Mania Holland (www.bicycle-mania.nl), Fodor’s Holland, Hot Pink, Network Your Way to Success and Here’s Holland (www.heresholland.com). As a documentary photographer, she is also the founder of the Amsterdam Street Photographers’ collective. Along with Street Photography Workshops, she leads regular Photo Walks in Amsterdam. For more information, contact Shirley directly at: shirleyagudo@gmail.com. Follow her on Twitter at: @BicycleMania.
Sherry Amatenstein
In addition to being an inveterate traveler and longtime travel writer, Sherry Amatenstein, LCSW, is the author of three books, including The Complete Marriage Counselor: Relationship-saving Advice from America’s Top 50+ Couples Therapists. She is frequently called upon to give love advice on many national radio and TV programs, including the Today Show, Early Show, Inside Edition, GMA Live, CBS News, VH1, BBC and Good Day New York. Sherry worked for many years as a magazine editor and journalist and is an adjunct professor teaching magazine journalism at the New School for Social Research, and at New York University. Her website is www.marriedfaq.com.
Nga Hoang
Bitten by the storytelling bug at an early age, Hanoi-born
freelance writer Nga Hoang has evolved from an avid listener of her tailor-grandfather's exotic tales to a wandering travel writer. Living in a city in transition, she enjoys the privilege of making Hanoi a launch pad for her writing career. She writes for a number of international titles, including Travel + Leisure, Lonely Planet Magazine Asia, Cuisine Magazine, and more. When not on assignment, she enjoys hiding herself away at a street cafe to linger over a strong black brew and watch the relentless swarm of motorbikes, sleek new cars and hawkers weave through streets until the sunlight fades.
images provided by each contributor
Anisha Shah
Anne O’Connell is a freelance writer, social media consultant and author of @Home in Dubai… Getting Connected Online and on the Ground. She has been an expat since 1993 when she and her husband left Toronto, Canada and moved to Fort Lauderdale, Florida. They enjoyed the sun for 14 years, while she worked in the PR field, before moving to Dubai in 2007 and then to Thailand in 2011. In Dubai, O’Connell started a freelance copywriting business and, more recently, she started writing fiction and was recognized twice with an Editor’s Choice Award on the Fiction Writers’ Platform. O’Connell grew up in Halifax, Nova Scotia and has a bachelor of public relations from Mount St. Vincent University. For more information, visit her website at www.anne-oconnell.com.
GLOBAL TRAVEL
Where to stay around the world
image courtesy of The Pierre hotel
by nga Hoang
luxury hotel reviews coworth park, united kingdom pg. 10
cover story Luxury Resorts, Bali pg. 14
InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort, vietnam pg. 20
majestic hideaways, canada pg. 22
the pierre, united states pg. pg. 26 12
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hotel review | Berkshire, united kingdom
Conservatory and Drawing Room 10 Global Living Magazine
Mansion House Junior Suite bedroom
The dorchester collection's
coworth park
left/right page: images courtesy of Coworth Park Hotel
For this issue of Global Living Magazine, CAROLYN PEARSON – award-winning, innovative web-start-up entrepreneur, CEO and founder of Maiden-Voyage.com – visited Coworth Park hotel, a Dorchester Collection property surrounded by picturesque parkland, to revel in the pastoral tranquility of this refined retreat.
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et in 240 acres of English Berkshire countryside, Coworth Park, Dorchester Collection’s country house hotel and spa, is the closest I have found to my heaven on earth. I arrived to the twinkle of lights that guided me up to the beautifully restored Georgian Mansion House, lit in all its splendor on this frosty spring night. Fully expecting quintessential English charm, I was delighted to be surprised by the stunning interior created by designers at Fox Linton Associates. The smoked oak floors, high ceilings and the sweeping modern staircase were completely unexpected. The public areas are elegant and understated
with lots of open fires, muted tones and comfy sofas and, to my delight, littered with equestrian art and sculptures. Since the early part of the 19th century, Coworth Park has been famed for its equestrian significance when it was the home of the 17th Earl of Derby, then a famed racehorse breeder and owner. In the mid-1980s, Coworth Park first became associated with polo when, at the time, its owners Galen Weston, owners of Selfridges and British food institution Fortnum and Mason, built the first polo field. Today, the polo is managed by Guards Polo Club, founded by HRH Prince Philip,
and is the only hotel in the U.K. to have its own two polo fields. The hotel also runs its own stables where guests can enjoy polo lessons from some of the world's best Argentinean and English instructors, or a ride out across the estate. Of the 70 rooms and suites at Coworth Park, 40 are housed within the grounds and cottages, which were the original stables. Less horsy guests can still enjoy a range of other outdoor pursuits, be it a leisurely stroll around the grounds or a game of croquet, and in summer, the hotel is happy to prepare picnics for guests to enjoy al fresco dining. A regular visitor tells me that in the summer months the Global Living Magazine
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rooms are filled with the exquisite aroma drifting up from the English rose garden. Dining at Coworth Park is an extraordinarily special fine-dining experience created by executive chef Brian Hughson. We commenced our evening of culinary indulgence in the stunning Drawing Room, sipping champagne cocktails to the gentle tinkle of the piano. We nibbled on delicious canapés created by sous chef Conor Toomey; the artichoke and truffle macaroons were divine. Seated in the stunning Restaurant Coworth Park, we enjoyed a long and luxurious evening that stimulated all of our senses while teasing our minds – beetroot meringue, onion foam, and parsley tapioca were just some of the intriguing combinations of the a la carte and tasting menus. One quickly discovers that at Coworth Park, a menu is simply a guide. Throughout dinner, we were entirely spoiled by Sommelier Alexandre Michel and gladly left the choice of wine to his far superior expertise. With every course came a variety of wines taking me off-piste from my staple favorites. I spent the night in a delightful junior suite in the main house. The light, airy and glamorous space was perfect for lounging and reading the stack of luxury magazines and the musings of Dan Kieran’s Book of Idle Pleasures. The huge, modern, four-post bed was influenced by branches of a tree and gorgeous equestrian-inspired linen. The indulgent marble bathroom housed a freestanding copper bath, heated floors and exquisite English potions from English farm growers, Mitchell and Peach. After a delightful breakfast I wandered out to the award-winning spa. Condé Nast Traveler ranked The Spa at Coworth Park as the ‘best U.K. hotel spa’, and their readers ranked it the fifth best in the world – and it's easy to see why. I would have loved to linger for a longer time there. The soothing Relaxation Room, which overlooked the grounds, is a perfect spot for whiling away a relaxing hour or two, surrounded by the type of interesting books one normally never has the time to read. The entire spa complex is flooded with natural daylight and is housed in a purpose-built building only a two minutes stroll from the Mansion House. The stunning pool was beautifully lit, had underwater music and was surrounded by huge amethysts, and the high-tech, wellequipped gym is housed above. The spa uses a range of quality products, including Carol Joy London and Kerstin Florian, and is the leader in natural aromatherapy oils, Aromatherapy Associates (one of the first hotel spas outside the U.S. to offer 100 12
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A freestanding copper Junior Suite bathtub
percent organic Dr Alkaitis treatments.) The rooms are bright, airy and minimalist, with huge, heated massage tables. While indulging in an Aromatherapy Associates massage, my therapist expertly applied a range of techniques to intuitively find and banish all areas of tension. Throughout my stay I was afforded the impeccable service one would expect from the Dorchester Collection. The difference at Coworth Park, aside from the contrast of the vast estate and the intimacy of the house, is that one feels like a guest of a private country residence. The team does everything to make your stay as comfortable as possible, whether organizing a game of golf at the local Wentworth Club or a visit to the pretty English village of Eton. My one regret is that I didn't stay longer at Coworth Park, so I will be sure to return
when the polo ponies come back and I can take a lesson at their Guards Polo Academy – before sipping Pimms on the terrace. Coworth Park is located a short 45-minute drive from London and a 20-minute drive from London's Heathrow Airport. In-transit passengers can be chauffeured to the estate for lunch, afternoon tea or dinner. Or, for a more grand arrival, the estate also has its own helipad. Coworth Park, Dorchester Collection Address: Blacknest Rd., Ascot, Berkshire SL5 7SE Tel: +44 (0) 1344 876 600 Web: www.coworthpark.com
left/right page: images courtesy of Coworth Park Hotel
The Spa at Coworth ParkMagazine swimming pool Global Living 13 entrance.
Beautiful Bali
Luxury Villa-hopping
By Roy Stevenson
| photography by linda popovich |
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he sparkling Indonesian island of Bali offers a rare convergence of tropical jungle flora, stunning, ever-changing landscapes overflowing with rice fields and temples, a deep and fascinating cultural heritage, and graceful, gentle people that seem born to welcome guests to their bustling island paradise. Along with Bali’s rapid development as a world-class tourist destination has come a vast array of luxury villas and resorts providing idyllic accommodations for every taste. Native Balinese architecture, spacious air-conditioned rooms, beds draped with colorful mosquito nets more for decoration than function, marble tiled floors, private swimming pools, indulgent spas, gourmet restaurants – these resorts offer all of this and more. While recently touring Bali I stayed at several luxury resorts. Subjected to spa therapies, Balinese healing treatments, and memorable gourmet meals, I inspected villas and luxury suites and cooled off in crystal clear swimming pools – all to give you my take on Bali’s top luxury villas and resorts.
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Amarterra Villa and Spa, Nusa Dua Designed to imitate a stylized Balinese Hindu Temple, the Amarterra Villa and Spa resort entrance is spectacular, with reflection pools leading to a grand staircase. Within the entryway you find intimate pathways surrounded by beautifully landscaped jungle and streams of water. It feels like your own private village where everyone knows your name. Amarterra Villas is located in the exclusive resort community of Nusa Dua. Newly opened in October 2012, Amarterra Villa and Spa is a private luxury
Global Living Magazine
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hotel review | bali, Indonesia
Amarterra Villa and Spa, Nusa Dua Designed to imitate a stylized Balinese Hindu temple entrance, the resort entryway is spectacular, preceded by long reflection pools.
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A decorated entryway at Amarterra.
A bedroom at Amarterra.
The Pavilions, Sanur Reached by a shady, long, bamboo-lined avenue, The Pavilions in the Sanur resort area exudes understated class and comfort. Founded in 2000, this boutique resort has 24 gorgeous villas offering complete privacy and seclusion, each tucked away behind walls and lush tropical foliage. One and two-bedroom villas are offered, all seamlessly landscaped into the 2.5 acre property. The villas feature dark hardwood floors, contemporary Balinese furniture, decorative 16
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Balinese artifacts, traditional thatched roofs, and plenty of large windows to enjoy the outdoor gardens and pool views when you’re inside. Add to that the air-conditioned interiors, a spacious bedroom and bath with a double-sized bathtub in a garden setting, a living room with colorful furniture, a flat-screen TV with a DVD player, and Wi-Fi … and the villas leave you wanting for nothing. The Pavilion’s outdoor Jahe Restaurant includes a large pavilion for dining plus several smaller, private dining pavilions – all romantically lit by dozens of candles on the balmy Bali evenings. Try the Balinese Set Dinner to taste eight scrumptious, traditional Indonesian dishes for a meal to remember! Breakfast is served in your villa every morning, so you can wear your bathrobe while the staff makes fresh coffee and toast while the kitchen delivers your breakfast. The Pavilions’ property manager, the gracious Miss Il Soon Kang, greets every guest personally and will do all within her power to make your stay comfortable and stress-free. Sanur is the original Bali resort area, founded in the 1950s. Although well-developed, it’s not overcrowded like some other beach resort areas. A short distance away is the beachfront walking path that takes you past museums, shops and cafes. There is also shopping and dining along Sanur’s main road, a minute’s walk from The Pavilions.
A swimming pool and villa at Amarterra.
Looking through the entryway into a villa at the pavilions.
One of the pavilions at Villa Mathis.
Four Seasons Resort Bali, Jimbaran Bay Perched on the side of a gently sloping hill that overlooks the long stretch of white sandy beachfront and seafood restaurants along Jimbaran Bay, the Four Seasons Resort Bali is the area’s oldest and best-known resort. Four Seasons was conceived and built in 1993 and strives to provide as close to a true Balinese A bedroom at The Four Seasons.
images by Linda Popovich
resort where it’s possible to spend the entire day without seeing any other guests. Completely enclosed by 7-foot-high screening walls inlaid with quarried white stone and covered with lush layers of exotic jungle flowers and foliage, each villa provides a superb cocoon of relaxation. Each of the villas also boasts a swimming pool adjacent to the outdoor living space which has a living room, dining room, flat-screen TV and a bar. One, two and three-bedroom villas are available. Beautifully appointed, air-conditioned interiors have dark hardwood floors, large walkin closets, a desk and a spacious bathroom with two rainshowers – one of them completely outdoors in the garden (don’t worry – it’s totally private). The Amarta Spa on the property offers a relaxing variety of treatments, including Dharma Massage, Body Exfoliation, Stone Therapy, and Bali Healing Ritual, as well as a complimentary foot massage. Amarterra’s Terrace Restaurant offers a selection of Indonesian and western fare, and they will customize a meal and serve it to you in your villa, if you prefer. Upscale designer shops are a few minutes walk out the door, along with additional restaurants and the Beach Club.
photography by Linda Popovich images by Linda Popovich
experience as possible. The moss-covered, Balinese-style walls along the walkways strongly resemble those found enclosing Balinese Temples, and the clusters of villas—spread out over 42 beautifully landscaped acres—bring to mind a series of Balinese villages. Although the Four Seasons boasts 147 villas, the resort maintains a quiet, private atmosphere. The luxurious and spacious villas, replete with marble-tiled floors and indoor and outdoor showers, are sheltered by tall privacy walls on three sides and a refreshing infinity plunge pool with a sea view. The villa’s architecture stays true to Balinese form and structure, with the bedroom and ensuite bathroom complete with high, sloping ceilings and dark hardwood beams. The furnishings are tasteful: tropical wicker, bamboo and rattan along with dark, native hardwood furniture. Four Seasons Spa has luxurious treatment rooms and is known for blending traditional treatments with modern amenities. Our
two-and-a-half-hour Love and Connectivity treatment included a foot wash, an exfoliation scrub, a massage that heals the heart chakra, and a rose oil bath for two. With everything we needed inside the resort walls, we never left during our three-day stay. With the spa, pools, five restaurants, trendy bar, art gallery, cooking school and sweeping views of the Indian Ocean and Jimbaran Bay, what more do you need? Villa Mathis, Umalas Imagine a luxurious tropical resort where you can rent your own private cluster of suites for a family reunion, wedding or gathering of friends. Villa Mathis, a short drive from the bustling tourist town of Seminyak, is a private hotel that is cleverly divided into five villas (resembling small upscale villages) that can be rented and privatized for special groups. Decorated in different themes, the villas – with names like La Maison Rouge (Red House) and La Villa des Rizieres (Rice Field Villa) – are
Four Seasons Spa has luxurious treatment rooms and is known for blending traditional treatments with modern amenities.
The entrance to the villa,
swimming pool and outdoor Global Living Magazine 17living room at The Four Seasons.
An outdoor living room area at one of the Viceroy suites.
oases of luxury set into the surrounding jungle. This 22-room boutique resort merges so well with the native foliage that on our first day there we got lost finding our way back to the reception area! Each villa boasts sizeable, shared living rooms, dining rooms and pools where guests from each suite can rendezvous, relax and dine. These luxuriously furnished rooms have marble floors, CD players and all the comforts of home, plus a private concierge to fetch drinks, food and anything else you need. The bedroom suites décor is a mix of traditional and contemporary Balinese artistry. The towering roofs are traditional Balinese thatched Alang-Alang construction, giving the interiors a spacious ambiance. Meals in the Ephemeral Restaurant can be served anywhere on the grounds of the villas – your choice. On our first night we dined beside the pool where romantic lights were strung from the trees beside our private deck, candles surrounded the pool and the food was exquisite. The Baroque Nights Restaurant, with 18th-century furniture and Balinese style architecture, sits above the Spa. The Spa offers a full complement of massage, healing and beauty treatments. The Villa Mathis staff can also arrange day tours, rafting, horse riding, or mountain bike tours – assuming you can tear yourself away from this beautiful resort. Viceroy Bali, Ubud Stacked on a steep hillside overlooking a thick green foliage-covered valley, the Viceroy is accessed by driving through a 18
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The CasCades Restaurant at the Viceroy is ranked in the top five in Bali and is considered the finest restaurant in Ubud.
Amarterra Villa and Spa, Nusa Dua Designed to imitate a stylized Balinese Hindu temple entrance, the resort entryway is spectacular, preceded by long reflection pools. Breakfast in your villa at Tugu Bali.
series of picture-perfect terraced Balinese rice fields – unless, of course, you come by helicopter. It’s the only hotel in the Ubud area with a helipad. The Viceroy Bali offers the well-heeled traveler a luxurious haven from Ubud’s frenetic hustle and bustle, yet is only a short drive from this well-known art and shopping mecca. The 25 villas at the Viceroy deliver several themes and sizes, from Garden Villas and Terrace Villas (1,615 sq. ft.), to the Viceroy Villa (4,300 sq, ft.). Attention to every detail and the use of high-quality furnishings and building materials sets the Viceroy apart from the crowd with its mix of Balinese architecture and fine European touches. The Viceroy encourages its guests to enter the Bali Time Warp where you go into such a state of peaceful bliss that even answering your emails seems like a major chore. (Wi-Fi is available if you’re so inclined.) The CasCades Restaurant at the Viceroy is ranked in the top five in Bali and is considered the finest restaurant in Ubud, with an awardwinning French executive chef producing food fusions that reflect the best of Asia and Europe. Be sure to indulge in a massage at Viceroy’s Lembah Spa. The Spa features a full range of treatments along with a beautiful view of the valley. If working out is part of your daily routine, there’s an air-conditioned gym. There’s also a well-stocked library of books in English, German and Dutch, as well as a DVD library with several hundred movies. And if you tire of your private pool, you can go for laps in the infinity pool beside the restaurant. With so much to keep you here, you will have trouble leaving the property and exploring Ubud, so plan your trip carefully to allow enough time to do both.
photography by Linda Popovich
Hotel Tugu Bali, Canggu Beach Hotel Tugu Bali provides its guests with a total immersion in Indonesian cultures, creatively combined with luxury and indulgence, all in a setting that seems more like an art and archeological museum. From the moment you walk along the lengthy entrance walkway flanked by narrow pools filled with Koi (ornamental varieties of domesticated carp), into the cavernous Bale Agung (Lobby) to be confronted by a fierce, 16-foot-tall wooden Garuda statue poised to pounce, you know Tugu Bali is different from most contemporary resorts. The resort is tucked away beside the beach near the small village of Canggu, with rice fields lining the roadway. Staying at Tugu Bali is like going back in time as you catch glimpses of different epochs in Balinese and Javanese history. Indonesian antiques adorn every one of the 21 suites, decorated in varying color schemes with no two rooms alike. The huge suites come with hand-crafted, native wooden floors and are equipped with sunken copper baths, a dining table, lounging platform (bale), comfortable armchairs and king-sized beds. Tugu is known for its over-the-top dining experiences. Guests receive an intriguing booklet titled The 101 Dining Temptations of Hotel Tugu Bali. On offer is an 8-course Imperial Chinese Dinner lasting three hours at a 39-foot-long table amidst 18th-century artwork surrounded by vivid red walls – a oncein-a-lifetime experience. Or, at the other end of the spectrum, the Waroeng Jawa, a humble dining experience in an open-sided hut where the food is cooked over open fires. Or if you seek romance, Tugu Bali offers intimate dining rooms indoors and private dining pavilions outdoors. If you have an appreciation for eclectic antiques and Indonesian culture, and yearn to relive Bali’s romantic era of discovery, Tugu delivers this in spades and pampers you almost to the point of insensibility. Villa Sungai and Sungai Gold, Cepaka Village We arrive by private chauffeur and drive through a small, unspoiled village to a small parking area. Waiting to greet us at this immaculate villa is a lineup of a half-dozen smiling Balinese who take our bags and whisk us down some stairs to our villa. This is our staff that will take care of us while we’re here. Villa Sungai is a 3-bedroom villa and Sungai Gold is a 2-bedroom villa. These villas are each rented as complete private villas so when you book a ‘room’ at either one, you will have the entire villa to yourself – whether or not you’re using all the beds. No shared spaces, no awkward conversations with strangers. It’s all completely yours, and it is exquisite. What first catches your eye when you arrive is the spectacular courtyard with a large infinity
Night time at Sungai Gold.
pool overlooking the hillside to the river. Surrounding the pool are the outdoor spaces: living room pavilion, relaxing bales, pool deck with lounge chairs, dining pavilion and gardens. The air-conditioned bedrooms all have kingsized, four-poster beds, traditional Balinese thatched roofs with high ceilings, a large walkin closet and a huge indoor/outdoor bathroom adjoining each suite. There is staff on call 24/7 to serve you, including your personal concierge who will consult with you every day on what you would like to eat and what your plans are for the day. The delectable food offered at Sungai can be customized according to your preferences. Ingredients are purchased each day to ensure freshness. Evening meals are served in the outdoor dining room, complete with candles surrounding the pool, and relaxing music. The VIP Express Butler airport package offered by Sungai is a must. A private car whisks you to and from the airport and an escort does all the hard work taking care of your bags, as well as the entry and exit fees. All you have to do is walk through and avoid all the lines – hassle free!
The cavernous bale agung lobby at Tugu Bali.
With these world-class amenities, Bali offers as perfect a vacation experience as you could imagine. A group at Tugu dining by the beach at sunset.
Incomparable Bali With Bali’s tourist development have come luxury villas and resorts – and that’s a good thing because, with these world-class amenities, Bali can now offer as perfect a vacation experience as you could imagine. It has entered the realm of tropical havens, and seems set to stay there. Global Living Magazine
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hotel review | Danang, vietnam
Where the hill meets the sea By Nga Hoang
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ith Danang emerging as Vietnam’s economic powerhouse, the launch of the InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort is testament to the rising power of the city. I arrived at Danang airport at 7 p.m. sharp. After fighting my way through a maddening crowd of teenage girls hoisting up giant posters of some boy band, I finally reached the pick-up staff of the InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort. The drive from the airport to the resort was by far one of the most scenic I’ve ever experienced. We zipped by the Han River, lit up in a riot of colors, and neon-encrusted buildings similar to those of Singapore’s Clarke Quay. Excitement mounted when the car abruptly veered into the windswept coastline and past a giant Buddhist statue glowing yellow with deep contemplation. Passing the resort’s signboard, we continued to whizz through what looked like a lush tropical forest. Twists and turns led us to the lobby area, decked out like an art gallery rather than a grand resort. I was escorted to a huge daybed where I then kicked back with a cup of tea. After a quick check-in, I was led to my room. 20
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The resort marries hill and sea, with a majestic setting of a mountainside village terrace that spills from the hills down to the sea. All the rooms are perched on a steep slope facing out to the South China Sea and the whole complex is spread out over four blocks: Heaven, Sky, Earth and Sea. My room is located in the Sea block. The novelty of the resort, however, is the Nam Tram, a cable car that is tastefully restyled as a traditional wooden Vietnamese boat. It takes you up and down the hill through the different levels. As soon as I reached the Sea block, I took a golf buggy to my room. The décor is ideal, with an intriguing blend of Oriental colonial heritage architecture and all the western mod cons. Although the room – as well as the entire resort – is consistently dominated by the black and white elements that play off against each other, it is by no means bland. Throughout the room are eclectic touches of art. In the middle of the room sits a sumptuous king-size bed with a mirror attached to the ceiling, shaped like the black spade in a deck of cards. A wooden wardrobe is stylishly locked by what resembles a Chinese hairpin. Once its doors were flung open, I discovered an iPod dock with a Bose integrated sound
All the rooms are perched on a steep slope facing out to the South China Sea and the whole complex is spread out over four blocks: Heaven, Sky, Earth and Sea. system. The room also has a private terrace with a surfboard-shaped cocktail table and cushioned chairs. Bear in mind that such things are only the tip of an impressive architectural iceberg. The real delight, however, has to be the bathroom. Everything in the bathroom screams Indochinese vibes, from the wooden drawers to the whitewashed walls. What makes it truly unique is that it has locallycrafted marble furnishings throughout, from the square sinks to the deep bowl-shaped bathtub. Guests can enjoy a relaxing soak with an uninterrupted view over the bay and the rhythmic sound of waves lapping against the rocks. It’s as good as it gets! I had dinner at the aptly named Barefoot Café. As its name suggests, the floor is covered in sand. I nabbed a seat at a candle-lit table shaped like a boat and indulged happily in a pizza. InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort clearly deserves much praise for integrating refined design with the raw beauty of nature. For that, it has won my vote of approval. Visit www.ihg.com/intercontinental/ for more information.
left/right page: photography by Tran Quang Liem
Intercontinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort
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hotel review | Canadian rockies
travel Emerald Lake Lodge's Point Magazine Cabin balcony 22 Global Living
Luxury Hideouts in the Canadian Rockies Discover Canada’s most magnificent accommodations for a perfect mountain getaway. By Carolyne Kauser-Abbott
T image courtesy of Emerald Lake Lodge
photography by Carolyne Kauser-Abbott
he majestic Canadian Rockies: ice-covered, serrated ledges of granite and limestone. It is difficult to imagine the era when these mountains were submerged by ocean currents. Long after, the dinosaurs disappeared, the waters receded, and the craggy cliffs attracted nomadic tribes in search of the healing attributes from energy vortices. Canada’s first explorers crossed the immense range on horseback, looking to improve their fortune in search of golden ore. The vast landscape was then somewhat tamed with the arrival of the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) in 1885 as coast-to-coast travel could now be accomplished with relative ease. Commencing in the 1880s, Canadian Pacific Hotels constructed some of Canada’s most iconic and magnificent accommodations. Many of these properties, such as the Banff Springs Hotel and Chateau Lake Louise, endure today as attractive lodging for travelers from around the globe. These hotels are postcard-perfect with striking architecture and stunning natural backdrops. As fabulous as these mountain properties are, they have certainly lost the exclusive, luxurious charm of yesteryear, drawing visitors by the busload. However, escaping the camera-toating crowds to soak up some real mountain luxury is still possible. Following is a hypothetical itinerary for a few precious days in some Canadian Rockies’ hideaways – a perfect mountain getaway. Itinerary: Banff and beyond The main drag in the resort town of Banff is festooned with souvenir shops, sports outlets and tourist menus, offering many opportunities to underwhelm a seasoned traveler. However, perched high on Sulphur Mountain below Banff’s Upper Hot Springs, the Eden Dining Room in the Rimrock Resort Hotel rises well above the average. This dining room has received the auspicious AAA 5-Diamond award for Chef David Hassell’s innovative cuisine. Working with local Global Living Magazine
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products, his inspired tasting menus include Saskatchewan grains, Alberta elk and west-coast sturgeon. After dinner, you can enjoy a digestive in the wood-paneled bar and then retreat to room number 800, one of two signature Grandview suites with a stunning Bow Valley view and rich mahogany furnishings. Tomorrow your destination is Lake Louise. Built in 1942, the architecture and décor of the Post Hotel & Spa is reminiscent of Switzerland. The design choices have much to do with long-time owners André and George Schwarz, two brothers with roots in the Swiss Alps. This property has long been associated with the prestigious Relais & Châteaux brand, and their impeccable service starts at the front desk, where guests are invited to make themselves at home. You can take a seat by the roaring fire and gaze towards the icy blue Victoria Glacier. Or curl up under a toasty blanket and read a book in the wood-carved envelope of the library. A day spent hiking the local trails is good reason to indulge in the Temple Mountain Spa or to find a comfortable perch at the bar for a specialty cocktail.
Pipestone River
The Post has 94 inviting guest rooms all stylishly furnished with natural pine, plush seating, blissful linens and thick, inviting duvets. When you reserve, ask for one of the 50 rooms with a wood-burning fireplace, where the rundlestone hearth and overstuffed furnishings may tempt you into a catnap. The Watson House, named after the hotel’s original owner, is a 3,000-square-foot cabin with room for eight. It is essentially a private home, complete with an inviting terrace with views of the flowing aqua-colored creek, plus a full kitchen – not that you will feel like cooking, with the Post Hotel’s renowned dining room and Wine Spectator Grand Award cellar just steps away. For a memorable occasion, private dining among some of the 23,500 bottles (2,200 different labels) can be arranged. Heading west from Lake Louise you quickly reach the British Columbia (B.C.) provincial border marked by steep peaks, a seemingly-endless evergreen forest and a single strand of asphalt. Field, a hamlet with a population of just over 200 people, is the first settlement of any note after Lake Louise. Field is known for rewarding hiking trails and rock climbing within easy reach of the village. Initially, Field was established as a tent camp during the era of railway construction. Once the metal rails were set in place, the CPR focused marketing efforts towards the adventurous tourist. Wealthy voyagers were thus attracted to mountain towns and secluded lodges. For a time, Field enjoyed some of that business as visitors flocked to the Mount Stephen House, which was built in 1886. As the Canadian economy 24
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Emerald Lake sunrise
top: image courtesy of Post Hotel & Spa; bottom: image courtesy of Emerald Lake Lodge
Located in Yoho National Park, [Emerald Lake] is aptly named after its surreal turquoise waters. A lakeside track of just over three miles allows you to view the remarkable water from every angle.
developed and passenger rail travel was replaced by freight, the importance of Field declined, and the Mount Stephen House was torn down. Today, savvy visitors arrive in Field for a combination of outdoor pursuits and a gem of a restaurant, aptly named the Truffle Pigs Bistro. Run by three foodies, the restaurant is open most days for lunch and dinner. Their lunch menu boasts hearty fare; try a juicy burger from their ‘Patty’ list. The Bistro’s dinner selection reads like a Canadian map of coast-to-coast regional ingredients; you might be tempted by Boss Hog’s Boo-Ya-Base with PEI mussels or Green Salt Duck Leg Confit cassoulet – dishes inspired by global flavors. Located just a few minutes away from Field is Emerald Lake Lodge, a sparkling bauble in the Canadian Rocky Mountain Resorts’ group of hotels. Located in Yoho National Park, this lake is aptly named after its surreal turquoise waters. A lakeside track of just over three miles allows you to view the remarkable water from every angle. The main building is the base camp for cocktails at the unique bar, salvaged from a Yukon saloon, or for sumptuous dining inspired by early railway travelers. Private cabins surround the main lodge with accommodation for 85 guests. The term ‘cabin’ may not immediately conjure up thoughts of blissful luxury, but once you see the stone fireplaces and down-filled duvets, you will be convinced. The most exclusive of all is the Point Cabin, boasting panoramic views from the wrap-around balcony and two-person hot tub. As appealing as it is to cocoon in a fluffy down-filled duvet staring out at Emerald Lake, there is one more stop on the travel agenda. The Kicking Horse Resort in Golden B.C., a skiers’ paradise in winter months, is transformed in summer into a hiker and mountain biker heaven. After a stunning 12-minute ride on the Golden Eagle Express gondola, you arrive at the Eagle’s Eye restaurant. Perched on the top of the mountain at 8,033 feet, this restaurant can boast that it is the highest dining room in Canada. The culinary experience and the 360-degree views of five Canadian national parks will not disappoint. After a delicious meal of farm-to-fork creations prepared by Sylvain Bourget and Marcus Molfetner, you may want to check into one of two exclusive alpine suites. The Eagle’s Nest suites are as private as it gets. Once the restaurant is closed and the last guests have descended to the village, you are left in solitude in the Canadian Rockies, snuggled under your eiderdown-duvet with a view to die for.
kicking horse resort Address: 1500 Kicking Horse Trail P.O. Box 839 Golden, British Columbia, V0A 1H0 Canada Tel: +1 (250) 439 5425 Web: www.kickinghorseresort.com Emerald Lake lodge Address: P.O. Box 10 Banff, Alberta, V0A 1G0 Canada Tel: +1 (250) 343 6321 Web: www.crmr.com/emerald post hotel & Spa Address: 200 Pipestone Road P.O. Box 69 Lake Louise, Alberta, T0L 1E0 Canada Tel: +1 (403) 522 3989 Web: www.posthotel.com The rimrock Resort Hotel Address: 300 Mountain Ave. P.O. Box 1110 Banff, Alberta, T1L 1J2 Canada Tel: +1 (403) 762 3356 Web: www.rimrockresort.com
The Rimrock Resort Hotel
Truffle pigs bistro Address: 100 Center Street Field, British Columbia, V0A 1G0 Canada Tel: +1 (250) 343 6303 Web: www.trufflepigs.com
The Eden Dining room at The Rimrock Resort Hotel.
images courtesy of The Rimrock Resort Hotel
Patio dining
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hotel review | New York, USA
Mumbai Comes to Manhattan The Pierre’s uber-luxe Taj Royal Attaché Service makes you feel like a legend in more than your own mind.
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eeling a sudden, fierce craving for a pizza at 3 a.m.? Need an insanely quick shoe shine before a black tie event or meeting that could change the course of your life? Want someone to confide in over a breakup, and your therapist isn’t available? Who can you call? If you’re staying at the Pierre in New York, the answer is the Royal Attachés, currently servicing guests ensconced in one of their 11 Grand Suites. Last July, after a $100 million dollar renovation, this illustrious hotel – now the United States flagship of India’s Taj brand – began offering an experience heretofore solely enjoyed by Maharajas, heads of state, diplomats and other members of the elite. SmalI wonder this native New Yorker jumped at the opportunity to experience the 110-year-old tradition of palace-inspired, highend butler service. The credo: my every desire, even those unvoiced, would be seen to with dispatch and warmth by my intuitive Attaché. The service began two days before my stay, with a phone call 26
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Taj Royal Attaché unpacking.
asking me for preferences in some of life’s ‘essentials’: newspapers (NY Times), flowers (yellow roses), pillows (soft), and alcohol (champagne, please). … No, I didn’t need an airport pickup. The Pierre’s three Royal Attachés were hand-picked from thousands of highly trained butlers in India who operate on the principle that ‘the guest is God’. A six-month training program in cultural sensitivity, overseen by the head of Learning and Development for Palace Hotels, further honed the skills of Anupam Guha and Sujoy Choudhury. The training included master classes in body language, designed to help them pick up on the subtle cues of the guests. A guest may say, “No need to fetch my slippers,” but a shoulder slump gives away their true desire. The clientele taking advantage of this Attaché program during their sojourn at The Pierre are generally Brazilian, Portuguese, Russian, Saudi, French, Spanish – and an import from Long Island City, Queens. My $5800 a night, two-bedroom, ruby- and gold-toned Rajput
images courtesy of The Pierre Hotel
By Sherry Amatenstein
Taj Royal AttachĂŠ preparing Global Living Magazine 27 dining room.
Suite, home for a blissful 24 hours, featured a bronze statue depicting Kali, the goddess of eternal energy, coffee-table books recounting the lifestyle of the princely rulers from Rajasthan, and intricate Kalamkari paintings (artwork composed with a pen). My friend and I were greeted by the aroma of my requested roses and a beaming Sujoy, his white-gloved hand proffering chilled towels followed by flutes of champagne. Sujoy’s genuine warmth and eagerness to please left me feeling like royalty. At my offer of a tip, he said it wasn’t money he wanted but to make me happy. Sujoy and Anupam were my points of contact for the entire stay – no need to call room service, the front desk or concierge. As Sujoy said, “Call and I’ll be there in 30 seconds.” The Attachés’ desire to please extended not just to me but to various friends visiting me. For instance, Sujoy insisted on not just making a lunch reservation for my friend Laurie but escorting her to Sirio, the restaurant recently opened by the Pierre in partnership with famed restaurateur Sirio Maccioni. Another visitor’s request for fresh guava juice sparked several calls to quench his desire. Of course these wishes paled in comparison to the reported requests of previous Grand Suite guests, such as ‘babysitting’ an elderly relative
while the guest and his children toured Manhattan, or transforming the hotel room into a winter wonderland replete with fake snow. As Anupam emphasized, “I would never consider a request to be bizarre; we always say ‘it’s challenging’.” With enough notice, it’s also possible to arrange a customized Royal Culinary Journey – a multi-course extravaganza, including an amuse bouche avocado pani puris with spiced vodka, created by Executive Chef Ashfer Biju and presented on plates adorned with edible gold, rose petals and saffron – served in The Presidential Suite, if available. Although I did not request this particular delight, I did succumb to a Royal Indulgence Bath, lovingly prepared by Anupam, whose final touch was to strew rose petals up to and onto the edges of the deep, marble soaking tub now imbued with intoxicatingly scented oils and other potions. Once my Attaché departed, I basked in the watery idyll, sipping champagne and nibbling fois gras. How quickly one can become accustomed to living inside such a ‘pampered’ bubble. In the waning hours of my respite from reality, I realized that the sole negative of having my own Attachés was the knowledge that I’d have to give them up. Coming home with me was perhaps the only request that couldn’t be granted. To reserve a Grand Suite retreat complete with Taj Royal Attaché Service, call 1-800-743-7734 or email thepierreresv.ny@tajhotels.com.
Taj RoyalGlobal Attaché Morning Tea Service. 28 Living Magazine
images courtesy of The Pierre Hotel
Foot bath
La Posta Restaurant
GLOBAL TRAVEL
exploring the world one destination at a time
Las Cruces and Mesilla, New Mexico
Image courtesy of Las Cruces Convention and Visitors Bureau
Chile peppers, sand dunes – and an authentic dining adventure by marla cimini
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ith over 350 days of sunshine every year, southwestern New Mexico is ideal for remarkable outdoor activities and travel adventures. While in Las Cruces and the neighboring town of Mesilla, you may find yourself hiking through stunning sand dunes, taste-testing extraordinarily hot chile peppers, or dining on authentic New Mexican fare at some of the area’s historical establishments.
Endless White Sands For a truly out-of-this world experience, a visit to White Sands National Monument gives visitors the opportunity to
step onto the world’s largest gypsum dune field, featuring pure white sands stretching out for miles. Standing in the middle of the silent and serene rolling mounds conjures ethereal images of lunar landscapes, as the stark and seemingly endless whiteness pops against the deep azure New Mexican sky. The glistening, wave-like dunes appear to be alive … constantly drifting into high mounds, shape-shifting from 10 to about 60 feet in height – surreal and spectacular. Located in the Tularosa Basin, the 275-square-mile monument is situated between Alamogordo and Las Cruces. In 1933, President Herbert Hoover established the White Sands National Global Living Magazine
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Monument by official proclamation, formally recognizing the uniqueness of southern New Mexico’s white sand. Created to protect the environment, the monument’s dune field is the world’s largest. Although many dune fields exist across the globe, there are only a handful of gypsum dune fields, as most are made up of brown quartz and other minerals. The monument features plenty of nature activities for adults and children alike, including hiking trails, backpacking, picnicking, ranger-guided walks, sunset strolls, stargazing and more. The monument is also becoming increasingly popular for weddings, for those who wish to say, “I do” amidst the striking natural backdrop of powder white sands and blue sky. Not surprisingly, Hollywood has been attracted to the natural beauty of the sand dunes as well; movies, commercials and music videos have been filmed at the monument, including: The Men who Stare at Goats; Transformers 1 and 2; Young Guns 2 and the iconic 1968 Clint Eastern western, Hang ‘Em High. On a recent visit, I had the chance to go sledding in the sunshine, which was much warmer and an overall more pleasant experience than sliding down freezing cold, snow-covered hills. Grabbing our round plastic sleds, my small yet enthusiastic group embraced their childhood again by happily flinging themselves down the dunes – screeching with laughter as we careened down the hills. What impressed me the most about the gorgeous white sand dunes, however, was the sound of silence. The ethereal acoustics are lovely and unexpectedly peaceful, especially for first-time visitors.
White Sands National Monument
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Global Living Magazine
Hot Salsa
Bhut Jolokia, a variety originating in Assam, India. It was entered into the Guinness World Records by surpassing the previous champion, Red Savina. The ‘heat’ of chile peppers is measured in Scoville heat units (SHU), which is the amount of chile extract added to sugar syrup before its heat becomes detectable. For example, a sweet pepper or a bell pepper, containing no capsaicin at all, has a Scoville rating of zero, meaning no heat detectable. The hottest chiles, such as habaneros, have a rating of 200,000 or more, indicating that their extract must be diluted over 200,000 times before the capsaicin presence is undetectable. The Bhut Jolokia reached one million SHUs, which is nearly double the SHUs of Red Savina,
Images courtesy of Las Cruces Convention and Visitors Bureau
Hot Stuff: Chile Pepper Institute So, you like to spice things up? Las Cruces is home to the world’s only Chile Pepper Institute, which was established in 1992 and is based at the New Mexico State University’s campus. The institute is a non-profit organization dedicated to research and education relating to all things chile peppers. It focuses on the findings of horticulturist Fabian Garcia, who introduced the standardization process for chile peppers in 1888 and is considered the father of the chile pepper industry. The institute studies everything you could possibly want to know about these spicy peppers. And if you are feeling especially brave, you can try the world's absolute hottest chile pepper, called
which measured 577,000. For the true pepper enthusiast who would like to experience them firsthand, the institute welcomes visitors to their teaching garden, which is open from June to October, seven days a week. It’s not just the overwhelming number of different types of peppers that can cause confusion, however. The spelling of the word ‘chile’ has a diverse history as well. Originally, chile comes from the term chilli that is derived from the Aztecs. Later, the spelling was changed to chile by Spanish-speaking Mexicans, and the word chili was used in the United States. According to the Chile Pepper Institute, the term ‘chile’ is used when referring to the plant (or fruit from the plant), while the term ‘chili’ refers to a culinary dish consisting of meat, beans, tomatoes and chile powder. Dining in Mesilla The dining scene in Las Cruces and the surrounding area is vibrant and authentic. An upscale historical establishment, the Double Eagle restaurant in nearby Old Mesilla offers a wide selection of steaks and seafood in a lively, yet elegant ambiance (along with a few resident ghosts to add some extra thrills to your meal). Boasting the only dedicated beef-aging room in New Mexico, The Double Eagle’s lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch feature an array of hearty choices, with fresh, piquant local flavors mixed in. A few favorites include chicken Mesilla (with green chile and guacamole); chile con queso macaroni; and New Mexican Plato Rio Grande, featuring a filet mignon steak, red chile sauce, green chile relleno, chicken enchilada and black beans. The restaurant’s labyrinth of rooms and its unique history make for an even more intriguing experience. Nearby – but worlds apart – is another local eatery that is rich in New Mexican history: La Posta de Mesilla, located in the heart of town and considered a favorite since opening its
La Posta Restaurant
La Posta Restaurant
TOP: image courtesy of Las Cruces Convention and Visitors Bureau; MIDDLE: photograph by Bill Faulkner; BOTTOM: photograph by Ben Chrisman.
Double Eagle Restaurant
doors back in 1939. The building itself is a registered historic landmark, as the structure is a traditional adobe. Despite that, it’s not a subdued place; exotic birds greet guests as they step into the entranceway, and some nights live traditional music is featured. Offering a full menu of Mexican cuisine, along with an impressive margarita selection, the restaurant is casual, fun and upbeat, to say the least. In addition to enchiladas, tacos and tamales, a house special includes ‘tostados compuestos’: toasted corn tortilla cups filled with frijoles, red chile con carne, and topped with chopped lettuce, diced tomatoes and grated cheddar cheese. A local favorite is the sour cream enchiladas, with corn tortillas (smothered in green chile sauce, of course) and topped with grated cheddar cheese, sour cream, and refritos, rice and house-made Mexican slaw. After experiencing all the exciting outdoor adventures and zesty dining experiences in southwestern New Mexico, I can say that one thing is certain when visiting this part of the state: Arrive ready to get your chile on!
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Travel + Culture
Art
By Apple Gidley
Houston, Texas is a city imbued with a thriving cultural scene offering performance arts from well-patronized and worldclass ballet, opera and theater companies to a symphony orchestra and every other kind of music, as well as many museums and art galleries that make the Bayou City proud. 32
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photograph by Earlie Hudnall Jr., Courtesy of University Museum
Houston, Texas: Dance Theatre of Harlem Exhibition
O
Firebird
images by Apple Gidley
ne such venue, the University the field in art education and became Museum at Texas Southern known as Arts Exposure, giving vent to University, a gem tucked deep Mitchell’s desire to honor Dr. King, and in the heart of the Third Ward, to Shook’s hopes for a position offering is currently garnering buzz ‘social significance’. Virginia Johnson, with the Dance Theatre of Harlem: 40 Years of a former DTH principal dancer and Firsts touring exhibition. Dr Alvia Wardlaw, now artistic director of the re-formed director of the University Museum said, company, said of that first session, “Mr “UMuse is the exhibition’s only venue in Mitchell conducted the first lecture Texas. This spectacular exhibition is filled demonstrations in tights and the kids with a cultural history of which many are not laughed so much when he came onstage, aware. It will inspire our students and may that for the next performance he had on introduce them to an art form not previously slacks. I have not seen him in tights for a experienced.” lecture demonstration since.” The recent opening brought Houstonians The Dance Theatre of Harlem, the into the raspberry-colored space to view first black ballet company in the United backdrop scenes from some of the States, first performed in 1971 DTH signature ballets. Photographs, The diversity of dance and a willingness to with just four principals, with posters and memorabilia tell the take risks inspired Mitchell to broaden the Mitchell choreographing all company’s history from 1969 when appeal of Firebird, originally produced in the pieces for the fledgling Arthur Mitchell started his dance – the first being Ode 1910 by Diaghelev for the Ballet Russe. company school in a Harlem basement, to the to Otis, with a nod to the music much-anticipated return to the New York stage in April 2013 of R&B artist Otis Redding. “Many of our performances in of a streamlined Dance Theatre of Harlem. those early months were with the four of us in every possible Mitchell, after learning tap at the Police Athletic Academy, variation of pas de deux, pas de quatre and solos,” remembered was encouraged to audition for the High School of Performing Walter Raines. Arts. After winning a scholarship to the Katherine Dunham The different tableaux of this alluring exhibition have School of Dance, he studied dance technique under Karel monitors showcasing the fluidity, beauty and athleticism of Shook. In 1955, at the invitation of George Balanchine, both the choreography and dancers. Costumes from Creole Mitchell became the first black dancer with the New York Giselle, the first full-length ballet broadcast on NBC in 1984 City Ballet – a daring and historic decision in pre-civil rights and which earned the Sir Laurence Olivier Theatre Award, America. Rising quickly through the ranks to become a premier is transplanted from mid-19th-century France to a free black danseur, Mitchell electrified audiences throughout his 15 plantation in Pre-Civil War Louisiana. years with NYCB. Following the death of Dr. Martin Luther Athleticism was the lure used by Mitchell in the early days King, Jr. in April 1968, Balanchine created Requiem Canticles of the DTH when attempting to get youths off the basketball in tribute to the slain civil rights leader and cast Mitchell in courts and into the dance studio in which he had sunk his the role of ‘the King’. savings. “I can teach you to jump higher. The lower you can Shortly after, Mitchell, with his former mentor Karel bend, the higher you can jump. It’s called a demi-plie,” he Shook, opened a church’s basement doors to students, taking cajoled them. ballet to the community in which he grew up. Their lectureBreaking tradition once again, Mitchell decided that his demonstrations in libraries, church halls and schools led ballerinas should match their skin tone to their tights and shoes
Flying Tutus
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rather than wear the customary pink. The decision, which for each dancer involves a unique formula of dye, shoe spray and experimentation, is described by Judy Tyrus, a former principal dancer and curator of the current exhibition: “I don’t think audiences understand the time it takes to achieve this. Now dancers all over the world use flesh-toned tights and shoes. DTH is where it started.” Legendary dance teachers from around the world were brought to DTH through Mitchell’s Masters and Mentors program. The diversity of dance and a willingness to take risks inspired Mitchell to broaden the appeal of Firebird, originally produced in 1910 by Diaghelev for the Ballet Russe. Based on Russian folklore, Geoffrey Holder transposed the set and costumes to a mythical tropical island, perhaps loosely based on his home of Trinidad and Tobago. A BBC documentary celebrating Arthur Mitchell’s extraordinary achievements, both as dancer and creator of Dance Theatre of Harlem, quietly runs at the back of the exhibition. Only his words can express the depth of his dedication: “I am maniacal. I demand perfection. From myself as well… I have no biological children; the dancers are my children and I am very proud of them.” Three years ago Mitchell hung up his dancing shoes, entrusting the company to Virginia Johnson, who as artistic director is poised to bring the DTH Company back to the international arena, reigniting the passion of young African-American dancers to the joy of 34
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ballet. It befits the hallmark of DTH and their mantra: “Our eclecticism is our strength”. Mitchell’s dream and dedication is apparent throughout the exhibition, as is his ability to inspire his dancers after their stage careers have ended – to remain conduits of hope and inspiration for the next generation. Judy Tyrus says, “I hope Dance Theatre of Harlem: 40 Years of Firsts motivates young people to realize their own dreams.” Founder of the art department at Texas Southern and renowned artist Dr. John T. Biggers would be proud of the current exhibition at the University Museum for which he so staunchly lobbied. His appreciation of all art forms was palpable, as seen in his seminal mural, Birth from the Sea. Biggers used Marge Stewart, dancer and professor of creative dance at TSU in 1964, as the model for the central figure of the mural. John Biggers and Arthur Mitchell both strived for perfection in their art. The permanent feature in the museum, Biggers’ Web of Life mural, as well as the current exhibition proves both men found that perfection. Dance Theatre of Harlem: 40 Years of Firsts may be coming to a city near you (the next stop is the August Wilson Cultural Center in Pittsburgh), so be sure to see it for yourself. Of course you could view it at the University Museum in Houston, but please, don’t tell anyone about the cultural haven known as the Bayou City. It’s our secret.
Photograph by Apple Gidley; artwork by John Biggers
Detail from Birth from the Sea (John Biggers).
OSLONORWAY THE WORLD’S RICHEST CITY IN THE WORLD’S HAPPIEST COUNTRY
image courtesy of AlexandAlexa.com Image VisitOSLO/Rod Costa
Broadcast journalist and incessant traveler Anisha Shah visited Oslo, Norway to uncover the secret behind what makes this Scandinavian city shine.
Oslo at night viewed35 from Global Living Magazine the Ekeberg Restaurant.
of expertise who exudes vicarious fervour, embellishing our on-foot ambles with precious nuggets of intriguing history. First, we conquer Akershus Fortress, a striking start. Dominating the skyline from a hilltop perch overlooking the deep blue Oslo Fjord, the late 12th-century landmark retains its title as City Protector. The Medieval castle is the ultimate symbol of patriotism, having survived besieges by the Swedes. It’s the most peaceful spot in the city, affording stunning vistas over Aker Brygge port. Nearby, the City Hall is breathtakingly contrasting. Stern and stark, it looks industrial with its red brick twin towers. Don’t be fooled, however, as the interior is bedecked in ornate artwork depicting the trade, culture and trials of Norwegians. Grand, stately rooms that back onto a pulsating harbor are emblazoned in an assault of creative art. I leave fully understanding the powerful lifeline that the fishing industry has provided in single-handedly sustaining Norway’s independence. Next door, I explore the inspirational Nobel Peace Center, noted for hosting the eminent prize ceremony.
‘THE HUMAN CONDITION’ A short tram ride away lies the most curious 75-acre Vigeland Sculpture Park. It’s the world’s largest, made by one artist, Gustav Vigeland. And it’s certainly the most evocative. Lining the walkways are 227 bronze, granite and wrought-iron human figures. From ‘The Crying Baby’ to a THE GRAND ‘RINGNES’ HERITAGE SUITE 59-foot-tall central monolith of Nostalgia is at the foundation of the Grand beguiling bodies, the emotive Hotel. Built on legacy and embedded in tales of sculptures celebrate the human regaling academics and diplomats, exhibitions condition. I find them intriguingly and ‘The Ball Society’, the hotel’s timeline reads enticing yet tinged with sadness. much like that of the nation – deeply etched into Norway’s history books. Checking into the palatial ‘Ringnes’ Grand Suite is the quintessential opulent fantasy. A wrap-around balcony affords views directly onto Oslo’s elite shopping street with the Palace and Parliament a proud stone’s throw away. Norway’s infamous Ringnes beer heritage, stemming from the nation’s largest brewery, is elegantly interwoven into the suite in sumptuous style, with grand showcases in the oversized lavish living room, a museum piece encased within the beautifully appointed bedroom, and wall-hangings adorning the gigantic marble bathroom and lining the large entrance hallway. As I’m welcomed into my walk-in wardrobe by a personal butler, I’m tempted to just linger in the suite for the entire afternoon. WALKING CITY TOUR Alas, I’m off on a walking city tour. Oslo Tourism Board is the most helpful I encounter anywhere. Eva Sundar is my guide – a font 36
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The Grand Hotel
BEAUTY AND FINANCE Oslo is the prettiest financial capital I’ve visited. Its amphitheater shape is befitting. Bordered by serene and picturesque fjords, it teems with leading contemporary museums and design-led cultural offerings such as the exceptional Opera House and Renzo Piano’s Astrup Fearnley Museum. Peppered with plush properties as well, whether in the nouveauchic, harbor-front Tjuvholmen, upmarket West Oslo or the East’s edgy Grunerlokka, it’s a one-off chocolate-box city. Ensconced within the embrace of lush forests and 1,615 miles of finely prepared cross-country ski trails, a mere 20-minute metro ride away, Oslo offers something for everyone, minus life’s stress. Oslo’s burgeoning legacy of seamanship, adventuring, wayfaring, exploration and fishing richly furnishes city museums, buildings and even streets. But if, like me, you’re exploratory-minded, go looking for a city of the unexpected and you’ll find it in the local neighborhoods. EAST OSLO HAS THE EDGE If the Grand Hotel is the medieval heart of Oslo, East Oslo’s Grunerlokka is its 21st-
Deluxe Room at The Grand Hotel
images courtesy of The Grand Hotel
“Let’s celebrate New Year in Oslo.” The sentence sent electric shivers, knowing full-well that a) it’s the most expensive city in the world b) sub-zero temperatures are standard and c) did I mention, it’s one of the world’s most expensive cities? As a Luxury Travel Writer and eager worldexplorer, however, I can’t deny an uber-keen interest, especially with Norway topping the polls as the World’s Happiest Country (Forbes). Norwegians have it all: they’re rich and happy. Propelled by sheer curiosity and fueled by British Airways Club Europe, I arrive with ease at Oslo’s Gardermoen Airport. High expectations fast become living reality as I set foot inside the most luxurious hotel within the frozen heart of the Norwegian capital. My base camp is the legendary Grand Hotel, nestled in the beating heart of the city and perfectly positioned between Parliament, the Palace and the National Theater. The grand dame occupies a prime spot on the exclusive vein that is Karl Johans Gate, the most exclusive and elegant, tree-lined shopping boulevard threading through the heart of the city, fanning out in every arterial direction. It’s fast apparent that winter activities are a central focus as the hotel spills out onto the main open-air ice-skating rink, ‘Spikersuppa’. Blanketed in a glistening sheath of ice, shimmering in free-falling snowflakes and twinkling in festive wreaths and lights, the term ‘Winter Wonderland’ twirls around my head as I swivel on the rink like a ballerina in a real-life snow-globe.
The Opera House
The New Holmenkollen Ski Jump
The Vigeland Sculpture Park
clockwise from top left: VisitOSLO/Nancy Bundt; VisitOSLO/Rod Costa; VisitOSLO/Normanns Kunstforlag/Terje Bakke Pettersen; image courtesy of The Grand Hotel.
century cortex. Its rough-edged aesthetic is preserved and celebrated; cafes inside bunkerlike outfits coated with street art remind me of the warehouse bars of 1990s Shoreditch in the East End of London. Vibrant, metal-framed warehouses hold design galleries, arty coffee shops, Boho eateries and basement bars. This area cuts through Oslo’s safety net with a razor-edge of excitement. The idea of transforming blighted, industrial landscapes is no novelty but, in East Oslo, it’s noticeably showcased. Grunerlokka tilts Oslo a little on its Akerselvsa-river-lined axis. In contrast, West Oslo is graced with upmarket grand houses, willowy walkways and fairytale scenes. WORLD’S WINTER WONDERLAND Oslo’s primary pull, nonetheless, is its rightly deserved reputation as ‘the world’s winter wonderland’. A short metro ride into the mountains lands me knee-deep in wintry ski trails – downhill and cross-country – transforming in spring as fern-lined, lush forest cycling trails and a popular half-marathon route. I plunge into my first ski session with an instructor from Oslo VinterPark. Finding myself face-down, on occasion, I quite literally acquire a taste for the snow. Within an hour, I’m skiing freely on baby slopes with an overwhelming sense of liberation and, dare I say, confidence! Sheer exhilaration comes atop the world’s oldest ski museum. I’m allowed a sneak peek from the start-house atop the world’s most modern and impressive Holmenkollen Ski Jump, slated to host the Nordic World Cup next year. Soaring 196 feet above ground, it’s an almost vertical slope at dizzying heights. The view from the rooftop overlooks Oslo’s misty, cloud-lined horizon, shyly revealing the fjord and city lights in the far distance. More
Artesia Spa at The Grand Hotel
than a little piece of winter paradise, this is an expansive breadth of snow heaven. Winter sport fans must also try the electrifying 1.5 mile toboggan-run, which ends so far below that you take the metro back up! ARTISTIC INFLUENCES Oslo has been cannily reinventing itself as a hub of contemporary art and design, emerging as a sharp contender on the world’s highlyesteemed cultural scene. Happily, I’m invited to the dazzling Oslo Opera House for ‘Die Fledermaus’, an operatic performance known for adult hilarity. Located within my favorite building in the city, this is indeed a privilege. I’ve visited many opera houses, in Lisbon, Vienna, Geneva and Zurich, but this is exceptional. With the best seats in the house, I settle in to a sell-out Norwegian performance with seatback translation. Stateof-the-art staging and technology truly bring
the breathtaking performance to life. The Opera House can be seen from Oslo Fjord, where the city starts to turn maritime with a Nordic crispness in the air. Its waters and sailing ships have spawned the world’s greatest adventurers, polar explorers and global heroes. But this is not a destination for chance-tourists. A coffee and slice of cake at Halvorsens coffee house currently costs around $18. The Oslo Pass is a comparative bargain, granting visitors reduced-rate entry to museums, public transport and sights, and impressively allowing me aboard the Oslo Fjord sailing boat. From here you can hop on and off along the exclusive harbor-front development of apartments, bars and restaurants at Tjuvholmen, Oslo Opera House or the museums quarter on the Bygdoy peninsula. I make straight for the open-air deck equipped with blankets and hot coffee, while cruising the serene Nordic waters and gaining a fresh city perspective. Global Living Magazine
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That is until I step back into the wondrous time Norway’s legendary seafood, I’m led to brunch warp of the Grand Hotel. A day of pampering at the hotel’s infamous Grand Café. I’m also begins at Artesia Spa where a calming facial eager to indulge my sweet-tooth at this most saves my skin from the bitter cold. Nicola, the renowned spot in town. spa manager, is a fellow world-traveler who Entering the source of 135 years of literature recently returned to manage the Norwegian – having regaled history as a meeting point for spa with its emphasis on plush Nordic design. society’s elite, from politicians to journalists, Her passion for beauty is infectious and I come actors and artists – the Grand Café has long away with novel tips and glowing skin. been a source of mystery, scandal and rumor. Norway’s most famous ‘export’, the playwright FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD and poet Henrik Ibsen, frequented this café Fully relaxed now and keen to sample like clockwork in the 1890s, propelling it to
The Hotel Palmen Restaurant 38Grand Global Living Magazine
furious fame. I instantly notice the high Victorian ceiling, the large bay windows spilling out onto a misty, snow-blanketed street, and the lavish woodpaneled boudoirs in which couples indulge in intimate moments over champagne. My imagination runs riot as I detect the sweet scent of cigars, envisage men in top hats, white scarves and groomed moustaches, and ladies in slinky evening dresses, feathers and fur and that classic music of old. In fact, the restaurant plays on its infamous history, as the music rings true with
the echoes of Nat King Cole, Van Morrison and Etta James. Breakfasting here feels distinctly superior, noticeably so, as ‘outsiders’ can’t help but peer in as they pass. It is, indeed, the place to see and be seen. Brunch takes on an entirely new meaning; the equivalent to brunching at London’s Ritz, a supremely opulent spread provides a feast fit for royalty. RING IN THE NEW YEAR Suspense and anticipation fill the Grand
Hotel on the last day of the year. Laced in a luxurious black gown, I make my entrance as one of the few who are privileged to dine in Oslo’s most prestigious and celebrated spot for New Year’s Eve. Couples, young and old, well-dressed families and friends enjoy a sophisticated soiree in that distinctly peaceful and pleasant Norwegian manner – an assemblage of beautiful people. I delve into five divine courses, each accompanied by the perfect wines and champagnes. The evening is whiled away surrounded by rich history, grand
ambiance and heritage, after which we stroll across to the harbor for a dazzling fireworks spectacle and celebrations in the streets – a blissful beginning to what promises to be an incredible 2013. the grand hotel, oslo Address: Karl Johans gate 31, 0159 Oslo, Norway Tel: +47 (0) 23 21 20 00 Web: www.grand.no image credit: left page: image courtesy of The Grand Hotel right page: image courtesy of The Grand Hotel; image courtesy of VisitOSLO/Nancy Bundt.
The Grand Hotel Cafe Buffet
New Year's Eve
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GLOBAL STYLE
Jennifer Fisher Jewelry
Specializing in custom designs, New Yorkbased California native Jennifer Fisher has solidified herself as a jewelry designer adored by fashionistas and international celebrities alike.
J
ennifer Fisher Jewelry is an extensive fine jewelry collection with over 4,000 charms, handmade chain link necklaces and bracelets, gold cuffs, rings and earrings, all with a unique aesthetic that is evocative of Jennifer’s self-described edgy, yet sophisticated, style. Each piece can be personalized by shape, font, size and metal color, including either 14K or 18K yellow, rose and white gold.
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The brand also offers pave white and black diamonds to embellish the jewelry and add an extra component of luxury. Jennifer has expanded her line with the launch of her brass collection, which features everything from large cuffs, statement chain necklaces and earrings to stackable rings and bracelets. The fine jewelry collection is available for purchase exclusively on her website (www.jenniferfisherjewelry.com) and by
appointment only, while the brass collection is available on the website and also carried in high-end retailers around the world, including Barneys New York stores throughout the U.S. and Japan, Lane Crawford, and Intermix in the U.S. and Canada. Fans of Jennifer Fisher Jewelry include a wide range of high-profile international stars such as Naomi Watts, Sarah Jessica Parker, Rihanna, Jennifer Aniston, Emma Stone, Candice Swanepoel, Caroline Corinth, Hayden Panettiere, Doutzen Kroes, Maryna Linchuk and many more. Her pieces have been worn in films and TV shows, including both of the Sex and the City movies, Entourage, Weeds, Gossip Girl, and The Vampire Diaries. Visit www.jenniferfisherjewelry.com for more information.
images courtesy of Jennifer Fisher Jewelry
Jetsetter fashion and accessories
images courtesy of Harricana par Mariouche
Jennifer Fisher
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Jennifer Fisher Jewelry Global Living Magazine www.JenniferFisherJewelry.com
images courtesy of C. Wonder
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image s courtesy of Ola Voyna
Model Wearing: Pave Dome Necklace Drawing on vintage silhouettes, this pave-encrusted necklace features a series of crystal-studded rounds. $78 Square Stone Bling Necklace This sparkly necklace frames the face for a heightened dramatic effect and features elegant square stones with a choker silhouette, perfect for dressing up casual favorites or complementing couture pieces. $58 Tipped Cashmere Cardigan C. Wonder’s signature midi-cardigan silhouette in cashmere, adorned with contrasting tipped edges and glossy enamel buttons. $178
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Mini Feather Triple Drop Earrings 14K Yellow Gold ($2000)
Large V Necklace 14K Yellow Gold ($800)
RINGS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Black Pearl Claw Ring ($3000); Pave Black Diamond Marquis Ring ($5000); Pave White Diamond Marquis Ring ($5000). BRACELETS FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: Burnish White Diamond Date Cuff 14K Rose Gold ($5300); Burnish White Diamond Letter Cuff 7 Letters ($4500); Brass Collection Wing Cuff ($485).
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Jennifer Fisher
images courtesy of Jennifer Fisher Jewelry
“The feeling I strive to create for my customers is a casual edge, one that will make them feel dressed and finished the moment they put on my jewelry, no matter what they are wearing.�
-Jennifer Fisher
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EXPATRIATE LIFESTYLE expat adventures around the world
g n i v i r D d a o r Ab
r a e f e h t g Facin
’ve always loved cars and driving, but a move from the U.K. to Canada replaced my usual adrenaline rush with a downward spiral of dread. A lover of fine cars and consummate speed, no one was more surprised than I was when I lost my driving mojo! I was heartbroken to say goodbye to my beloved Mercedes Benz, but enthusiastic to get behind the wheel of our new Jeep, a vehicle better suited to Canada’s rugged, weather-beaten terrain and suicidal driving style. For months before exchanging my British driving license for a Canadian one, I mentally rehearsed driving here. Closing my eyes, I’d imagine every part of the journey into town, all the intersections, traffic lights and lane changes, haunted by the fear that I’d end up on the wrong side of the road and terrified of the potential carnage. I had read, in my trusty Guide to Living and Working in Canada, that it was helpful to stick a Post-it on your dashboard reminding you to ‘Keep right’, so I knew it wasn’t uncommon for people to forget. I was convinced, however, that what was a possibility for some would be a certainty for me! On paper, the swap from left side of the road to right seems simple enough, but in practice, it’s a little more complicated. A huge part of driving is the execution of learned responses, performed instinctively. Here, I needed to learn new responses, not unthinkingly perform the old ones; waiting for a gap in oncoming traffic before distractedly turning left into the left (oncoming traffic) lane was one such example. My husband was convinced his number was up. I’m no Jason Bourne when it comes to being hyper alert in my surroundings; my default setting is ‘Easy-going’ unless instinct dictates otherwise. My husband will tell you I’m generally off in my own world, oblivious to what’s around me, and I’m happy to let him labor under this misconception when it’s to my advantage. His advice was to take note while he drove, before getting behind the wheel myself. A fine idea in theory, but in reality I’m more of an ‘enjoy-the-view’ passenger than a back-seat driver – gifted
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Those lovely, polite people who did indeed stop to let us walk across minor roads, or waited for us to pull away from an intersection, were actually just following the rules of the road. at spotting that fire hydrant… not so good at noting which lane I should be in at the time. Thanks to my exultant publication of our new ride on social media, the pressure grew for me to get behind the wheel. Let me give you an idea of what I was up against: All-Way Stopping: Canada, like the U.S., is built on a grid system. The beauty is you can never really get lost, but it does equate to constant navigation of intersections, many of which are subject to ‘all-way stopping’ where the car that stops first, proceeds first. Obviously, an awareness of the rules helps. We’d assumed that drivers on main roads had priority over those on minor ones, so we were innocently responsible for a number of irate motorists hitting their horns. Bewildered, we’d shrug at each other, “What’s HIS problem?” as we pulled away – until someone explained to us the ‘first-come first-served’ rule. Now, as well as being aware of pedestrians coming from any direction (they have priority), we also had to keep track of the order of arrival of other vehicles at the intersection – oh, what we wouldn’t give for a roundabout or two! Turning right on red: Vehicles at a red light can turn right in Canada, after coming to a complete stop, providing it’s clear and there’s no sign forbidding it. Thus, traffic flow is maintained. In reality, motorists concentrate on checking for other motorists coming from their left, not so much pedestrians crossing from their right. I had a few close calls as a pedestrian myself while out with the children. Now I always get eye contact with the driver before
image by Aisha Ashraf
I
by Aisha Ashraf
image by Aisha Ashraf
crossing, so I know they’re aware of me. From a driver’s point of view, it pays to be aware that many pedestrians will stride into the road without checking for traffic, as they have priority (and invisible body armor, it seems). From a British driver’s point of view, every sinew in your body screams “WRONG!” … but that fades after a while. When performed with due care and attention, turning right at a red light does make good traffic sense. Signage: Road signs in Canada are small and nondescript. Typically, they blend into the background and are positioned right on top of the turn you need to make, leaving no time for safe lanechanges. Hence your average Canadian motorist’s propensity for weaving and tailgating. Road markings: These are your best indication of which lane you should be in, but they’re practically invisible at night on a slick roadway. Many Canadian roads have a narrow gravel shoulder and a ditch running alongside them. On a wet night it’s easy to wind up there. On local roads, there’s no line marking the edge of the roadway and no lights denoting the centerline. All you can do is look ahead, try to make out the centerline on the shiny, wet road surface, and carefully stick close to it without getting hit by any oncoming vehicles straddling it. Distracted driving: Almost everyone here drives while smoking, drinking coffee, texting or talking on the phone, or all of these simultaneously. Not good. Lack of courtesy: I’m convinced that you could grow old and die waiting for someone to stop and let you into a line of traffic here. People generally freeze in shock if you stop and motion for them to go before you. Such behavior is the opposite of the kind of defensive driving that ought to be the norm – everywhere. For example, drivers are never too quick to pull away from the light at an intersection; this apparently relaxed attitude is not just the result of an automatic gearbox, but seemingly a survival tactic to
From a driver’s point of view, it pays to be aware that many pedestrians will stride into the road without checking for traffic, as they have priority (and invisible body armor, it seems). From a British driver’s point of view, every sinew in your body screams “WRONG!”… but that fades after a while. counteract the motorists who try to shoot through on a red. Driving etiquette, as I knew it in the U.K., is fairly non-existent. The good news is that I got my driving mojo back; I faced my fears and got used to the changes, but my opinion of Canadian drivers has been somewhat revised. Those lovely, polite people who did indeed stop to let us walk across minor roads, or waited for us to pull away from an intersection, were actually just following the rules of the road. I’m now more aware that when Canadians slip into their vehicles, they can become impatient, and arrogant – held in check only by the tenuous bureaucracy of a half-remembered set of rules. In that respect, I guess they’re not much different from anyone else. Global Living Magazine
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EXPATS givingback africa & europe Part two of three-Part series By anne o'connell
The reasons people have for giving back to the community run the gamut from the feel-good sense of helping others to alleviating boredom and gaining experience. Some approach these charitable activities very pragmatically and others do it because it’s part of their genetic makeup. They may even be addicted to what has been called that ‘helper’s high’.
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or either group of altruistic individuals, research shows that there is an added bonus: that it will help boost their health and well-being and even increase their longevity. “Research demonstrates that volunteering leads to better health and that older volunteers are the most likely to receive physical and mental health benefits from their volunteer activities,” says a report of the Corporation for National and Community Service in Washington, DC. The report goes on to say: “Those who volunteer have lower mortality rates, greater functional ability, and lower rates of depression later in life than those who do not volunteer.” And, people who volunteer tend to report greater life satisfaction and higher self-esteem. Whatever the motivation behind the giving and the unexpected windfall of better health, communities around the world are benefiting from the work of thousands of altruistic expats. Cases in point A little village called Bwiza has become a thriving community full of enterprising individuals thanks to the commitment of volunteers like Karl Deringer, a dual national Canadian/American whose first volunteer experience with Canada World Youth included helping in
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Karl Deringer with children.
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her up, carried her to their embassy vehicle and took her to the hospital where she had a C-section. She and her baby survived. When he returned to the village to visit again, they sang and danced to thank him for helping save their friend’s life. “It completely melted my heart, and most all my other ideas of what I would do in Rwanda melted away, and I decided to help this village help themselves.” Along with the cows (that now number over 30), Deringer helped the village with tree planting and growing their own food, as well as setting them up to herd goats and raise guinea pigs. “To see a child hug a bag of beans that I helped his family grow … that is a great feeling,” said Deringer. “If you get a high when others do better, if you want to make the community you are living in a better place, then get involved.” Truly engaging with the community and listening to their concerns allowed Deringer to make a long-term impact. “SOSA winners are just a small subset of the amazing expat volunteers active around the world,” said Linderman. “Because Foreign Service people spend only a few years in each country, I think they can set an example showing what can be accomplished in such a short time. These volunteers not only put their own efforts into helping others, as so many of us seek to do abroad, but they also take the extra step of getting others involved and creating a long-term mechanism that will
image by Anne Casper
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a small-town psychiatric hospital in Calgary, eringer and ogoski Canada. The experience inspired him to become a psychiatric nurse. both started giving Deringer wound up marrying a U.S. back at an early age diplomat, and one of her postings brought them to Rwanda where they lived for three and volunteerism and years. He put his experience in psychiatric philanthropy have nursing to good use, working part-time at a health clinic at the U.S. Embassy and, before become part of their long, became enamored with a little village he had been brought to, seeing great potential in its enthusiastic yet very poor inhabitants. board chair and past SOSA winner. “Also, They were mostly day laborers working volunteering gives someone the opportunity for others, with little enterprise happening to get to know their host country better.” in their own village. Deringer took note one According to the website, nominees day that there were no cows, which are seen are judged on the scope and reach of their as a source of wealth in Rwanda. volunteer activity, sustainability, ingenuity “The dream of owning a cow would be and leadership, all of which were apparent like a kid in the U.S. dreaming of owning a in Deringer’s involvement with his adopted corvette,” said Deringer. community. He learned that the villagers (formerly Deringer discovered Bwiza through known as pygmies) were very low in social an organization called Pygmie Survival status. They didn’t have cows because it was Alliance (PSA) that his wife had found a widely-held opinion that they couldn’t while researching charities in Rwanda. A properly care for them. The village leader representative from the organization took told Deringer it was only because they hadn’t them both to visit the village in the hopes been given a chance. they could help in some way. Wanting to help them overcome the stigma, “They were as poor as poor can be and Deringer set about finding them their first were literally starving on a hillside,” recalls cow. One pregnant cow led to several others Deringer. “They were living mostly in nothing and also gave birth to Deringer’s and the local more than poor mud houses, or less.” government’s long-term commitment to the The day they visited there was a mother village, and a growing sense of pride among who had been in labor for more than 12 hours the people. and wasn’t doing well. It was obvious to them “The cows were very transforming for she wasn't going to make it. Deringer picked the village in the perception of themselves and in the perception Karl Deringer of others,” he said. “They also have become a source of milk for their children and a future source of money.” Deringer was one of the 2012 winners of The Secretary of State Award (SOSA) for Outstanding Volunteerism Abroad. The award, established in 1990, is sponsored and administered by the Associates of the American Foreign Service Worldwide (AAFSW). “Accompanying spouses/partners sometimes struggle to find their niche in a new country and may even be at risk for depression,” said Patricia Linderman, AAFSW president. “From what I have seen in 22 years in the Foreign Service community, volunteering and truly making a difference can be one of the best antidotes to this.” “The individuals volunteer not for recognition but they volunteer because it gives them a greater value and fulfilment in their own lives,” agreed Lara Center, AAFSW
top: image by Anne Casper; bottom: image provided by Barbara Rogoski
continue to provide benefits after they have left the country.” Barbara Rogoski is another altruistic expat who has had a long-term impact on her adopted home. Rogoski is an American who has been living in The Hague for 22 years and has become part of the very fabric of her community. A minister and small business owner, she is passionate about social justice and equality. Rogoski’s day job is running her company Successful Speaker Now that helps celebrities and executives improve their presentation skills. Like Deringer, she has put her expertise and altruistic spirit to work, embracing projects such as Meals for the Homeless, which she founded through the Catholic Church of The Hague. “I have always been devoutly Catholic, and my role model Oprah, and her Angel Network, inspired me to take action to serve and to ‘bloom where I was planted’,” said Rogoski. “I loved the experience to meet the people, look in their eyes and touch them on the shoulder and talk with them about their troubles, and be compassionate in all contact.” Touched by the plight of the homeless, Barbara also co-authored a book called How to Achieve Heaven on Earth. She was in good company.
Barbara Rogoski
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Barbara Rogoski (left) acting as emcee for event.
“My essay was featured in the racial harmony section called, Homeless Meals and Racial Harmony. It was quite successful and I was a co-author with Barack Obama and Tony Blair!” Rogoski’s fight for social justice in The Hague has expanded beyond homeless issues to encompass support for the gay and lesbian community. She takes a global approach with a focus on promoting equality, acceptance and justice for all. She recently wrote a children’s book called The Adventures of Super Lorelei, which has a strong anti-bullying message. “The main character is a superhero who happens to be gay,” said Rogoski. “I am working with a stichting (foundation) to bring this story to all primary schools in The Netherlands.” Deringer and Rogoski both started ‘giving back’ at an early age, and volunteerism and philanthropy have become part of their DNA. “In the U.S. growing up, I often bought Christmas presents to give to poor families in the area, as every child should have presents under the tree. This was in my early teen 52
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years,” said Rogoski. Deringer has similar memories of his first foray into the world of volunteerism. He recalls being inspired by his father’s community work. “I think it came from watching my father when I was young. His entire life, into his late 80s, he was always involved in some kind of charity work,” said Deringer. “I don't remember a time when I decided to start to give back; I just knew after high school that I wanted to go overseas and help.” Deringer also recounts a story where his mother collected money from family and friends in Canada. “You couldn't go into her home without emptying your pockets of change,” he said. “We used that money and lots of my own to run projects in the village, and we still do.” Deringer and Rogoski fit into the ‘feel-good sense of helping others’ category. They are each motivated by a deep-seated belief that was nurtured from a young age. “I am an ordained interfaith minister and Reiki Master,” said Rogoski. “I am called to be of service to every person I meet. On
my ordination in May 2008, this is what I committed to for life. It may sound corny, but I am committed to help others and if I don’t do things often, I start to get restless and look for more opportunities.” Like many expats, both say the hardest thing about living overseas is being so far away from family and friends. It makes it easier that their adopted families in faraway places are the obvious beneficiaries of their life-long commitment to giving back. “Serial expats, like those in the Foreign Service, who move from country to country every few years, also have the great advantage of being exposed to many ways of thinking and many potential solutions, so they can act as cross-pollinators, in a sense, carrying ideas that have worked in one place and applying them in a completely different setting,” said Linderman. Deringer echoes the sentiment of ‘crosspollination’ in his belief that people give back in order to “leave the world a little better because you've been in it.”
images (left & right) provided by Barbara Rogoski
Deringer and Rogoski fit into the ‘feel-good sense of helping others’ category. They are each motivated by a deep-seated belief that was nurtured from a young age.
image copyright Solarseven, 2013 used under license from Shutterstock.
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FIVE OF THE BEST...
Column created by Jo Parfitt www.summertimepublishing.com www.expatbookshop.com
A Career in Your Suitcase
Jo Parfitt and Colleen Reichrath-Smith Summertime Publishing 382 pages, paperback, $24.29 and for Kindle This month sees the launch of the fourth edition of this popular book that focuses on helping self-starters to create and maintain a portable career. Now with the co-authorship of a Canadian expat and career consultant, this edition has become a workbook. Build your own Career Passport as you complete a variety of exercises that help you to identify what you love to do, what you are good at and which career options would be the perfect match. With case studies from expat men and women the world over and many anecdotes from the authors, this is the single must-have career book for global nomads. Reviewer: Jo Parfitt
WORKING ABROAD compiled bY jo parfitt In this section of Global Living Magazine, we feature five examples of good books in a specific genre. This issue we feature guides for working abroad. There are three types of people working abroad – those who get a job abroad with a company, those who move abroad and then look for work once they arrive, and those who create a portable career that works anywhere and moves when they do. Sadly, there are not many books out there that tackle this last subject, but we have found five to help you on your way. If you would like to suggest books for review in this section, please contact: Jo@summertimepublishing.com.
Laptop Entrepreneur
Nick Snelling and Graham Hunt Summertime Publishing 240 pages, paperback, $22.77 print and A Portable Identity for Kindle Debra Bryson and Charise Hoge If you want to avoid the crisis, make 268 pages, $24.95 print and for Kindle money online and out-flank your This book was first published eight years ago by business competitors, then Laptop two expat partners who found themselves rapidly Entrepreneur, written by two British losing sight of who they were when on assignment expats based in Spain, shows you how to with their husbands and children in Bangkok. make a living online and turbo-charge Together they worked hard to reestablish their any existing business. It provides a clear, identities and to find meaning in their lives and, in so doing, created a workbook that has been of huge accessible ‘road map’ to Internet success, illustrated in logical and easily comprehensible steps – specifically designed for the value to many spouses. Crammed with exercises, its large workbook format will be useful to anyone ‘person on the street’. The authors, assisted by six successful online business experts, show you how to conduct accurate about to start out with a new career, who wants to reinvent themselves online market research, buy the best possible domain name, after a relocation or job loss, or even lifestyle change such as the children leaving home. I return again and again to this book myself and continue to find the right search terms and keywords for your website, create a successful blog and undertake affiliate marketing. recommend it widely. Reviewer: Jo Parfitt They also show you how to make social media work for you Find Your Passion and instruct you how to write Internet articles for maximum Jo Parfitt effect. This book will teach you how to earn money online and BookShaker.com create your own business without becoming a computer geek. 163 pages, paperback, $15.18 and for Reviewer: Jo Parfitt Kindle Get Ahead by Going Abroad Jo Parfitt wears many hats, and readers C. Perry Yeatman and Stacie Nevadomski will benefit from every one. This outgoing Berdan author/journalist/teacher/publisher/ HarperCollins publishing consultant/writing mentor 188 pages, paperback $14.99 lives her passion daily, as evidenced by In this book, the authors discuss the her credo 'sharing what I know to help benefits of working overseas and how doing others grow.' Parfitt has taken all that so can accelerate your career. The pair writes experience and passion and successfully from experience. Perry headed overseas at distilled 20 tips and tasks to help you identify work that you can the age of 25, returning to the U.S. ten years also be passionate about. Parfitt starts by sharing her own path to later with a number of adventures to tell – building a career; it may have taken a few twists and turns out of such as working in an office near Russia’s necessity, given her expat life, but has always been based on her Red Square and touring Bangkok with own passions. She then offers practical, illustrative tips in chapters Margaret Thatcher. Today she is senior vice-president for corporate such as What Matters?, What Drives Your Career?, What's affairs at Kraft Foods, Inc. Stacie spent three years of her mid-level Stopping You?, Portfolio of Passions, and Find Your Defining Moments. Better yet, Parfitt doesn't merely tell; she also shows you career in Asia (starting in Hong Kong) before jumping into a senior how to find your own answers by including an accompanying task global position upon her return to America. Today she is an author with each tip. These tasks include questions and exercises geared to of business literature, a speaker and consultant – and mother of two. With additional anecdotes from four other global women (all help you sift through the background noise of your own situation American), Get Ahead by Going Abroad provides invaluable advice on to come up with meaningful, actionable answers. Not limited to expats, this book is for anyone seeking 'work that makes your spirit everything from landing – or creating – that overseas assignment to dealing with differences in business etiquette; from packing and soar'. Reviewer: Linda A. Janssen, www.adventuresinexpatland.com settling in to ensuring a successful return home (should you wish it!). Reviewer: Renata Harper 56 Global Living Magazine
book cover art courtesy of listed publishers
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